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HUMPBACK WITH AN ATTITUDE WINGNUT WINGS 1:32 SOPWITH CAMEL F.1 FULL-BUILD

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£4.60 August 2018 ISSUE 274

TAMIYA'S 1:35 M4A3E8 'EASY EIGHT' SHERMAN IN KOREAN WAR TIGER PAINT

TIGER TANK! Shizuoka Modellers’ event, 1:12 Fiat 500, VW Beetle surf van, plus new kits, books and modelling accessories…

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Sign Up to our Newsletter on www.hobbyco.net Find us on facebook search Plastic Kit UK

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16 TIGER TANK! Tamiya's 1:35 M4A3E8 'Easy Eight' Sherman in Korean War tiger paint

Issue 274 August 2018 EDITOR Marcus Nicholls editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com

Contents Co Cont ntents 4 NEWS DESK New kit and model product news

36 HUMPBACK WITH AN ATTITUDE Wingnut Wings 1:32 Sopwith Camel F.1 full-build 28 ZAPPED! Tamiya's 1:12 Kawasaki ZX-RR Ninja gets the Gennaro Zappa treatment!

6 MARVELLOUS MODELLING MADNESS! TMMI’s second report from the Shizuoka Hobby Show; Japanese model clubs take over!

22 BELLISIMA CINQUECENTO! Building Italeri’s 1:12 Fiat 500F kit and correcting few challenges along the way 44 SPECIAL DELIVERY: ON THREE WHEELS! Tamiya 1:8 RC Dancing Rider, based on a Japanese three-wheeler 48 BEETLE’S BIG BREAK! A resin body and Tamiya’s 1:24 Beetle is used to create a VW surf van 54 ENGAGE YOUR IMAGINATION! Hasegawa’s MaK Griffon in 1:20 60 BABY BALALAIKA! Eduard’s 1:72 MiG-21MF, previewed 64 CONTACTS Where to buy the products used and reviewed in TMMI 66 THE EDITOR’S PAGE Even more highlights from the Shizuoka Hobby Show!

Do you live outside the UK and want Tamiya Model Magazine delivered direct to your home, anywhere in the world?

Just email us at; enquiries@doolittlemedia.com Or call +44 (0)1525 222573 Subscription rates for 1 year (12 issues) are: Within UK: £47, Europe: £59, Worldwide/USA: £72

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HOW O TO OW T CONTACT CONTA T CT TA C US:

TELEPHONE: (UK) 01525 222573 EDITORIAL EMAIL: editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com ALL OTHER ENQUIRIES: enquiries@doolittlemedia.com ADDRESS: Tamiya Model Magazine International,

Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK Tamiya Model Magazine is published monthly by Doolittle Media Ltd. Reproduction in part or whole of any text, photograph or illustration without written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited.

While due care is taken to ensure the contents of Tamiya Model Magazine is accurate, the publishers and printers cannot accept liability for errors or omissions.

TMMI 274 August 2018

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Newsdesk

If you have news of forthcoming model, armour, aircraft or car events, changes of address or just interesting information to share, please write to: TMMI Newsdesk, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK Tel: +44(0)1525 222573 Email: editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com

IN BRIEF...

TAMIYA - 1:72 Mitsubishi A6M5 Zero Fighter (Zeke) Silver Color Plated - 1:48 Mitsubishi A6M5/5a Zero Fighter (Zeke) Silver Color Plated - 1:48 German Luftwaffe Crew (Winter) w/Kettenkraftrad - 1:35 RC WWI British Tank Mk.IV Male - Tamiya Cutting Mat a (A3 Half-Size/Blue) - 18-well Palette for Brush Painting (5pcs) - Japan Cup Junior Circuit Curve Section Set (Blue/Red, 2pcs each) - Japan Cup Junior Circuit Straight Section Set (White, 4pcs) - Cam-Program Robot (Gun Metal & Orange) - Centipede Robot - Modeling Blade (Flat Chisel 2mm) - Tamiya Lacquer Thinner (Retarder Type, 250ml) - HG Carbon Rear Multi Roller Setting Stay (1.5mm) - Spray-Work Air Compressor Advance - Mini 4WD Variatron - Mini 4WD Hawk Racer GT - Low RPM Type 130 Motor - TSU-03 Servo hobbyco.net

COPPER STATE MODELS - 1:32 WWI German Flying Ace - 1:32 WWI Austro-Hungarian Flying Ace - 1:32 WWI Lafayette Escadrille Flying Ace - WWI Italian Flying Ace copperstatemodels.com

MR TAMIYA WINS IMPORTANT CULTURE AWARD Recently, at the 21st Cultural Affairs Media Arts Festival in Japan, Tamiya's President Mr Shunsaku Tamiya won the prestigious '21st Achievement Award' for his contribution to Japanese culture and commerce. TMMI wishes Mr Tamiya our happiest congratulations!

ON THE WAY FROM TAMIYA 1:10 RC LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90

Tamiya have secured the licensing to produce a perfect scale 1:10 RC model of the iconic Land Rover Defender 90 and from having seen it at the Shizuoka Hobby Show, it looks fantastic.

More news soon on this impressive achievement. www.hobbyco.net

BIG HONDA RETURNS!

The 1:6 1969 Honda CB750 Four is on its way back and it's the ideal chance to get your hands on a factory-fresh production of Tamiya's first 1:6 'Big Scale' motorcycle kit. www.hobbyco.net

'80s SUZUKIS ON THE WAY BACK FROM TAMIYA DRAGON - 1:35 IDF Magach 5 - 1:35 M688 Lance Loader-Transporter - 1:35 JS-2m ChKZ Production (Orange) - 1:35 SU-85M tank destroyer (Orange) - 1:35 T-34/76 Mod.1940 (Orange) - 1:35 M4A2(76) Red Army (Orange) - 1:350 ROC Navy Kee Lung-class destroyer - 1:72 M4A3 Sherman - 1:72 StuG.III Ausf F - 1:6 M4A3(75)W hobbyco.net

HASEGAWA - 1:35 work team hasegawa-model.co.jp

MENG - 1:35 Panther Ausf.D - 1:35 JagdPanther Ausf.G.1 meng-model.com

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The Suzuki RG250Γ 'Gamma' and GSX750S 'new' Katana are great-looking bikes, both from 1983 when motorcycle design was quite adventurous. Tamiya's 1:12 kits are on their way back for a limited time, so snap them up while still available. www.hobbyco.net

WW1 MK.IV MALE TANK WITH RC Tamiya released the 1:35 kit of the WW1 British Mk.IV 'Male' tank back in 2014 to much acclaim and now it sees the light of day again, but with an RC unit tucked inside its hull! This enables it to trundle across the floor or a miniature trenchscape just like the real thing. www.hobbyco.net

HAUNEBU II FLYING SAUCER IN 1:72 The mysterious 'Haunebu II' was an (alleged) Third Reich design that has its own cult following. Revell's kit is a fun project that can be painted up any way you wish! www.revell.de/en

FOX MODELS Fox Models is a product line of Studio 27 that offers some neat (if expensive) accessories for AFV models. Two of their newer 1:35 products include a set to convert an M1A1 Abrams kit to Australian Army spec, with PE, cast metal and decals. For the plethora of Panther tank kits currently out there, Fox Models have created decals sets for turret numbers and more. www.foxmodels.net

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NEWS DESK EXTRA: MODEL SHOW SHIZUOKA HOBBY SHOW: MODELLERS EVENT

S U O L L E MARV MODELLING MADNESS !

Marcus Nicholls brings us his second report from the Shizuoka Hobby Show. This time, the fantastic Japanese model clubs take over!

“VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF LIFE” they say and this hackneyed but all too true phrase is certainly applicable to the hobby of scale modelling. Model shows around the world will always throw up some unusual entries, but if you want to witness the esoteric, the puzzling and the downright bizarre, Japan is the place to come, specifically the Shizuoka Hobby Show in May each year.

In the last issue I focused on the trade show, where manufacturers display their new products for the world to see. In complete contrast to these more formal, business-like days, the weekend is when the modellers take over most of the 'South Hall' of the Twin Messe venue and spread out thousands of models across hundreds of tables; from a very rough estimate, I'd say it is four times bigger than the competition room at Scale Modelworld, Telford. It is a breathtaking sight and it's hard to get your head around how so much humanity can squeeze into a hall just to gaze at, study and photograph models of every conceivable type, scale and size.

Despite the very cramped walkways and the need for extreme patience when waiting one's turn take photos, I absolutely love this part of SHS week and always add an extra day to my schedule to walking the aisles and talk to the participants. The atmosphere is very friendly and I usually end up with a sore neck from doing double-takes when I spot yet another amazing model that just has to be photographed. Over the next few pages, I have tried to include as broad a spread of images as possible, to give you an idea of the range subjects on display, but this is only a small percentage of the event. I hope you enjoy what you see! ●

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The work of genius artist and animator Hayao Miyazaki lends itself very well to depiction in model-form and is strongly represented at the SHS. The Miyazaki Mecha Modelers Club stand displayed some truly remarkable miniatures and one could easily spend an hour just gazing at the magic on show

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USS Ticonderoga CV-14 A particularly impressive model (an understatement) was a recreation of the aircraft carrier USS Ticonderoga CV-14. Nothing unusual in that you say?

This was in 1:72! It had a full air-wing and was completely mind-blowing

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NEWS DESK EXTRA: MODEL SHOW SHIZUOKA HOBBY SHOW: MODELLERS EVENT

Science-fiction subjects are taken seriously in Japan (in a fun way) and a great deal of originality will be found in the figures, spaceships and aliens creatures on show

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Car modelling is huge in Japan and the quality of the show models was simply staggering

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NEWS DESK EXTRA: MODEL SHOW SHIZUOKA HOBBY SHOW: MODELLERS EVENT

You'll see models of things that you have no idea about and that's part of the fun!

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Dioramas are big in Japan and they are always well thought through, with excellent placement of vehicles, figures and buildings

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The traditional subjects – aircraft, armour, cars, ships, bikes – are of a fantastic standard, many of which have appeared in Japanese model magazines

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One of the most wonderful aspects of the show is how subjects are mixed up on club stands; you'll see a Star Wars Star Destroyer alongside a T-34 tank and an AnimĂŠ figurine on the other side!

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The language barrier is rarely a problem; an exchange of smiles and thumbs-up signs is enough to express one's admiration!

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FULL-BUILD: MILITARY VEHICLE TAMIYA 1:35 US MEDIUM TANK M4A3E8 SHERMAN EASY EIGHT KOREAN WAR ● KIT NO.35359

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A TIGER TANK IN THE KOREAN WAR! ByeongSoo Kim describes how he painted and weathered Tamiya's recent 1:35 'Easy Eight' Korean War and gave it the characteristic tiger-face Sherman seen on some tanks during this conflict

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FULL-BUILD: MILITARY VEHICLE TAMIYA 1:35 US MEDIUM TANK M4A3E8 SHERMAN EASY EIGHT KOREAN WAR ● KIT NO.35359

Here we can see how little needs doing to bring Tamiya's two-year old Easy Eight kit up to speed; only the headlight brush-guards need replacing with photo-etched items for a more scale-like appearance

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am a Korean and my grandparents suffered during the Korean War, so I really wanted to thank the many thousands of soldiers who fought in that tragic and brutal conflict. As explained in the January 2016 issue of TMMI (No.243) the kit is extremely straightforward to build and employs Tamiya's skills in injection-moulding to maximise the enjoyment and reducing any stress.

This M4A3E8 Sherman 'Easy Eight' was first deployed at the closing stages of the Second World War but was perhaps best known for its role in the Korean War and became very famous for the unique paint-work on its frontal armour. Recently, Tamiya released a model of this tank; contrary to the facts we knew – and also the excellent research by Tamiya's designers – it actually had black eyes and mouth on a red background.

I was very shocked by this development, but I was soon fascinated by its unique features.

With the model built (my only significant additions being photo-etched brass headlight brush-guards) I used an airbrush to cover the tank with primer. I sprayed a 'fake shadow' on the model using black acrylics, applying the colour to what would be the darkest parts of the tank. I then mixed black, olive drab

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and brown together and applied this mixture to the tank, further enhancing the shadowing effect. I made a mixture of brown and olive drab and airbrushed this onto the model to form the primary colour of the tank.

Following this, I added some yellow and white to the basic colour and airbrushed the model in areas where medium-level highlights might occur which helped to create a three-dimensional effect.

I then added even more white to the basic colour and painted the areas of the tank that would be the brightest lit. It may look extreme in the photographs, but it will look three-dimensional when it is completed. I mixed several further colours from acrylics and the applied brightest colours, then, I touched-in various details using a brush. Next I mixed a dark clear, glossy olive drab colour from transparent orange and green acrylic paints and airbrushed the whole model. This is called filter and it unifies the colour already applied and it increases the colour saturation and intensity.

The weathering and subsequent steps tone down the 'colour modulation' previously applied and give the model the final, hopefully realistic appearance that you see here. A fitting tribute to those who took part in the Korean War. ●

The author chose the 'colour modulation' technique for this model and in the early stages, it looks very stark and unconvincing

Small surface details were highlighted by had using Vallejo Acrylic paints, adding contrast and making them stand out from the surrounding paintwork

Using heavily thinned, clear acrylic colours, a colour-shifting ‘filter’ was airbrushed over the whole model, warming up the tones and unifying the colour-modulated airbrushed areas

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The red background for the tiger-face has been applied and it too has been given a colour-modulation effect, lightening towards the top

The tiger face markings are now on, creating an extremely dramatic effect; it's ripe for weathering now!

The author uses simulated paint chips, localised colour-washes, scoring, scraping and other subtle techniques to build up a matrix of wear and tear across the whole model

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FULL-BUILD: MILITARY VEHICLE TAMIYA 1:35 US MEDIUM TANK M4A3E8 SHERMAN EASY EIGHT KOREAN WAR ● KIT NO.35359

This close-up shows the realistic build-up of simulated mud around the HVSS bogies of this late-model Sherman

Availability; Tamiya models and accessories are widely available from good model shops and online.

UK import and distribution by The Hobby Company limited; www.hobbyco.net Back issues of Tamiya Model Magazine can be obtain from; www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com

The kit is extremely straightforward to build and employs Tamiya’s skills in “injection-moulding to maximise the enjoyment and reducing any stress... ”

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MISSION MODELS PREMIUM HOBBY PAINTS, PRIMERS & ADDITIVES

CHANGE ANGE THE WAY YOU PAINT

WWW.MISSIONMODELSUS.COM Please visit Mission Models for dealer locations

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FULL-BUILD: STREET CAR MODELLING ITALERI 1:12 FIAT 500F ● KIT NO.4703

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his kit was previewed in TMMI a few issues back, so let's go straight into the build. At first glance the bodywork looks very beautiful, but if you look closer you will see that the rounded shapes at the back are somewhat angular. To remedy this, some careful sanding was in order. I started with 360-grit on the biggest defects and then gradually decreased the particle size, finishing at 800-grit. At this stage the body and its elements were degreased and undercoated with Tamiya primer direct form the aerosol. Once the primer was dry, the body was checked to confirm the shapes were now well rounded.

Finally, the whole body was sanded with 1200 and 1500-grit wet-and-dry abrasive.

The body and was degreased again and then fixed onto supports for spray-painting. The mauve-blue of my Fiat 500 is the result of mixing TS-10 French Blue and Tamiya Raybrig Blue, an old hue for a racing NSX. The paints were decanted from their aerosol cans and then the mixture made in a glass jar. My mixture being down to luck, it was imperative to have enough paint to hand!

The bodywork and its elements were painted in several thin layers at first, followed by a thicker 'wet' coat that allows the paint to form a continuous surface. Once fully cured, the paint was 'frosted' with fine abrasives in readiness for the application of gloss varnish. But before this step, I decided to embellish my bonnet engine with an Italian touch; the red, white and green of the country's flag!

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Fabrice MarĂŠchal builds Italeri's incredible 1:12 Fiat 500F kit and encounters a few challenges along the way...

LISIMA CINQUECENTO! TMMI 274 August 2018

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FULL-BUILD: STREET CAR MODELLING ITALERI 1:12 FIAT 500F â—? KIT NO.4703

V CHASSIS AND MECHANICS

Parts 19C and 20C contained in the lower hinges of the doors were directly and permanently glued, while the hinge parts 21C and 22C were simply placed within the door frames, 29C and 33C, without gluing them. Frames and doors were then held together with pieces of masking tape

Parts 27C and 31C forming the upper hinges were permanently glued to their mounts. Subsequently, it would be possible to dis-assemble the parts.

Their counterparts 26C and 32C were glued temporarily to allow adjustment of the doors with the bodywork. Each of the assemblies was completed using cyano glue, precisely deposited using a toothpick. It is important that everything can be disassembled to facilitate the painting to follow

The steering and suspension of the model are theoretically functional. However, from the assembly of the steering box in step 2, it became apparent that the clearance between the parts is so critical that the operation of the steering is unlikely. It's possible to slide the steering column into the housing after assembly, which I also retained as an easy way to build and paint the parts.

The steering rods, step 5, must be assembled to each other via pins whose heads are then flattened with a heated screwdriver tip. Suffice to say, that all this will be a little shaky.

When the underpinnings were fully assembled, I chose a 'definitive' position for the front wheels and cemented it all together. At the front suspension, the dampers incorporate a spring for compression and relaxation which is clever, but completely useless, because the shock absorbers are connected to a perfectly rigid plastic transverse leaf spring... The rear suspension, however, is perfectly functional and its assembly relatively easy.

Before mounting the suspension to the chassis, you must install the powertrain. I tried in reverse order to better centre the mechanism in the engine compartment, but it is impossible because of the wheel shafts must be put in place at the same time as the suspension. From now on, care must be taken to differentiate the left-hand and right-hand drive versions.

The system of fitting the bonnet allowing it to open is hard enough to implement even without having been painted, so the author chose to change it in order to avoid unpleasant surprises at a later stage. A brass rod bent at right angles and of suitable length acts as a hinge and link between the bonnet and the body. Part 13C in step 32 was modified in order to accommodate the rod

In order to paint the bonnet easily and in one go, a piece of brass rod of the same diameter as that used for the hinge was passed around part 23C and folded so as to create enough pressure that will hold the part to prevent it to rotating on itself. Once the bonnet was painted, the rod was removed with a pair of pliers

The door was put in place and kept closed from the outside with pieces of tape and from the inside with putty. The upper hinge previously left floating was fixed with cyano on its frame without glue, to achieve a precise fit

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FINAL ASSEMBLY

The seats were cemented in, followed by the rear body panels and steering wheel. The doors were and kept closed from the outside with pieces of masking tape. Five-minute epoxy glue was then deposited on the edges of each part so as to keep them joined. The body was then mated to the chassis. There are not really any fixing points except the pseudo-fixing of the engine mount in step 35. Five-minute epoxy glue that will be put to good use here; I applied some to the sills and the chassis just in front of the rear wheels. At the front, glue was deposited on the bodywork and the wing flanges as well as in the spare wheel compartment all along the front side. The chassis and body were firmly held in place until the glue had completely set.

This being done, I noticed that the rear body panels were not joined to the bodywork. To remedy this, the panels were held apart a little and more epoxy glue deposited on the inner wall of the body, accessing it via the roof. Then, with a finger through the roof and thumb on the outer body pressure was exerted until the glue began to harden...

The wheels were painted aluminium then shaded with black Tamiya's

brilliant Panel Line Accent Color. The tyres were then mounted on the wheels and the hubcaps and valves then fixed in place. The spare wheel (without flat-spot) was patinated identical to the rest of the car's interior. Finally the wheels were mounted. The fabric sunroof was made up according to the instructions and fixed to the roof bar

The black seals around the tail-lights are moulded in with the bodywork and therefore not very easy to mask off for painting. The author decided to paint them freehand using acrylic satin-black from Model Master. Without going into too much details, the adhesion of this paint on a glossy surface is much less than the Humbrol equivalent, so it was be possible to gently 'scratch' off any overflows using the tip of a toothpick, without damaging the paintwork

The engine was assembled following the instructions, each part being pre-painted in the required shade and then weathered with colour-washes. Only the areas of exposed 'metal' were drybrushed with metallic tones. A layer of pigments (AK Interactive Middle East Soil, AK147) was used to form a layer of road dirt, applying it by dry via brush, then wiping off the excess from the more prominent areas

Most observers will probably notice that my dial does not look good. In fact, when applying the decal, I confused AK thinners with decal softener that are packaged in very similar bottles... My only solution was to cut out an image from TMMI No.151 (French edition) where there was a photograph of the kit's decal sheet, conveniently the correct size for the kit instrument binnacle. Far from ideal, but better than nothing

(69F) and on the roof itself at the back, using cyano glue. All accessories of the body were finally fitted, following the instructions. The bonnet and boot lid, previously weathered on their inner faces were fixed in place.

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The author used AK Interactive clear colours to paint the rear light lenses in the appropriate red and orange. A piece of tape was applied to mark off the two areas to paint. First, the translucent orange was applied by brush. Several layers will be necessary to obtain a good finish. The advantage of these paints lies in their ease of application with a brush and their speed of drying.

Once the orange was dry, the mask was removed and the translucent red applied in the same way

The kit-supplied fuel lines seem ‘empty’ and the ignition leads a little too ‘soft’. In order to simulate the fuel in the pipes, Model Factory Hiro tinted tube was introduced into the plastic tubes provided in the kit; soapy water help their insertion. Introduce them more easily. The pipes are then put back in place. For the ignition leads, a small piece of wire from the kit was retained on each spark-plug and distributor and Tamiya vinyl tube of more accurate diameter was then cut to length and installed.

All accessories were painted and patinated separately before being glued in their place. Streaks of fuel were added to the tank and then pigments were applied sparingly to add a little extra weathering.

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FULL-BUILD: STREET CAR MODELLING ITALERI 1:12 FIAT 500F â—? KIT NO.4703

In reference photos, the contours of the seats have visible piping, but Italeri neglected this detail a little. To remedy it, the author first removed the mis-represented seams and replaced them with fine solder wire used in naval modelling and fly design for fishing. The wire was simply glued with cyano glue

At the last moment, the author decided to add a seam on the top of the back seat in order to fit in with the front seats. The parts concerned were then masked off the body colour applied

V CONCLUSION Italeri has created a beautiful model with

little to modify or improve to get the most out of it. However, some assemblies are not easy to understand and plans are not always clear, for example for headlights, windows or the chassis/body assembly.

That's why I would not recommend this model to a beginner, even if they are a diehard a fan of the mythical Cinquecento!

I dedicate this article to Alain Bouldouyre, passionate fan of the FIAT 500, but also an illustrator whose drawings were found in car magazines such as Rearview Mirror and Auto Journal. â—?

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The turn signals are painted by the interior in translucent orange, then chrome paint is applied from above. The outline is also taken up with chrome paint. The small front position lights are painted from the inside with chrome paint and their contours resumed in black. Lights and turn signals are attached to the epoxy glue

TECHSPEC...

ITALERI 1:12 FIAT 500F KIT NO.4703 MATERIALS; Injection-moulded polystyrene, soft vinyl tyres and tubing, springs, decals, photo-etched brass Paint used; Tamiya Sprays: TS-10, TS-29, TS-30, Raybrig Blue Tamiya Acrylics: XF-54, XF-66 Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color: Dark Brown, Black Humbrol Enamels: 33, 61, 85.

AK-Interactive: Real Colors RC001, RC002, RC004, RC006, RC007, RC012, RC020, RC503, RC506 Molotow: chrome touch-up marker.

Gravity Colors: two-component varnish.

Weathering; AK-Interactive: AK-013, AK015, AK025, AK082, AK4111.

Miscellaneous; Revell adhesives, Mek-Pak, cyanoacrylate adhesives Zap, Berner, Colle21, epoxy adhesive five-minutes, various abrasives, Tamiya masking tape, Polish Gelson, decal softener Availability; Italeri models are widely available from good model shops and online. UK import and distribution by The Hobby Company Limited; www.hobbyco.net

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FULL-BUILD: MOTORCYCLE MODELLING TAMIYA 1:12 KAWASAKI ZX-RR NINJA ● KIT NO.14109

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FULL-BUILD: MOTORCYCLE MODELLING TAMIYA 1:12 KAWASAKI ZX-RR NINJA ● KIT NO.14109

Gennaro Zappa takes Tamiya's magnificent 1:12 2006 Kawasaki Ninja and works his magic, using Top Studio's mega-detail set

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here were many expectations from Kawasaki for the year 2006 and the new ZX-RR Ninja was a bike that had very little to do with the previous one; a new engine with further evolution of the four-cylinder in-line (now more compact), increase in rpm, better power-delivery plus a new clutch, which was been redesigned along with the gearbox, in order to better manage the engine power.

The aluminium, double-beam chassis was redesigned according to the characteristics of the Bridgestone tyres, in order to offer greater manoeuvrability and stability in braking for the rider, a weak point of the bike a year before. New development – also by Ohlins – of the front fork which was deeply revised at the hydraulic level and they also created a new shock absorber.

Top Studio's big superdetail set (MD29005) was utilised on this model and it includes detail parts in resin, wire, tubing, photo-etched metal and more besides

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www.creativemodels.co.uk Tel: +44(0)1354 760022

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FULL-BUILD: MOTORCYCLE MODELLING TAMIYA 1:12 KAWASAKI ZX-RR NINJA â—? KIT NO.14109

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Tamiya's 1:12 Ninja kit is spectacular straight from the box, but I wanted to add something more (a lot more!), using trans kits and accessories from Top Studio, Crazy Modeller plus Scale Motorsport's carbon-fibre effect decal. I started assembly by cementing together all the major parts of the engine, frame and bodywork and then base-coating everything with appropriate TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black and TS Lime Green (for the bodywork), which specially produced by Tamiya for this Ninja variant. The engine was painted with an aluminium base colour and then darkened with light applications of thinned matt black.

Finally, after having fixed the detail parts such as Top Studio nuts and accessories, an additional colour-wash was carried out, to deepen the detail.

I covered the air-box and front air intake with carbon-fibre effect decal.

With this done, I then moved on to the assembly of control units, connectors and other accessories in resin that are found in the extensive Top Studio set.

A sharp hobby knife, good quality jeweller's files, sandpaper and foam-backed sanding sticks were used to refine the kit parts before painting

With a line of holes drilled, Top Studio rivets were fitted around the base of the windscreen and tiny marking decals applied

We se bike's

Composite-effect detail was trimmed to shape and applied to the underside of the seat support; under a coat of clear it looks fantastic

Here we see a highly realistic electrical cable and connector, part of the Top Studio set. The carbon-fibre effect decalling looks excellent

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More super-realistic tubing (with data stencils) has been added here.

Note the immaculate finish of the bodywork and seat pad

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The instrument panel surround is a Top Studio photo-etched part and looks extremely realistic.

Note how the folded PE parts are being coated with carbon-fibre decal

All electric cables are reproduced in the correct scale thickness and length

by Top Studio, using heat-shrink tubing. The kit-standard front fork was also replaced with Tamiya's a turned metal parts and other metallic items such as disc brakes, chain adjusters, brake calipers, rivets, springs and clamps came from Top Studio and Crazy Modellers.

The exhausts were first painted with a coat of silver and then the various heat-staining effects were recreated using Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange, X-27 Clear Red and X-19 Smoke and then sealed with a layer of TS-13 Clear. I applied the decals by (the livery of Randy De Puniet) and covered the insides of the lower cowling and side fairings with the aluminium foil cigarette packs because it simulates the anti-heat coating very well.

And there we have it. As mentioned earlier, Tamiya's 2006 Ninja is a fabulous kit when built without modification but with the addition of Top Studio's amazing set plus other detail items, the kit has the potential to look ultra realistic. Give it a try! ●

The forward frame is taking on an authentic appearance under a layer of composite decal. The cabling looks highly convincing too

The rear suspension swing-arm.

The adjusters are photo-etched parts and the mudguard has been decalled, again with carbon-fibre effect decal.

Note the tiny PE ring around the hole for the cable, plus PE cable clips

We see the author here, using a Q-Tip to buff up the metallic finish on the bike's exhaust system

Mini Review...

WILDER COMMON DUST, DARK EARTH www.airbrushes.com

These new products from Wilder (modeller Adam Wilder’s own product line) claim to be reactivatable, meaning that after application, they can still be manipulated once dry, allowing adjustments and tweaks, which promises to be very worthwhile indeed; we’ll be testing them soon

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FULL-BUILD: MOTORCYCLE MODELLING TAMIYA 1:12 KAWASAKI ZX-RR NINJA ● KIT NO.14109

The kit's moulded-in tyre valves were replaced with sharper detailed metal components, from Top Studio

The detailed-up front end looks fantastic; we can observe carbon-fibre areas, electrical boxes, insulated cabling and more

The rims sport lime green pin lines around their edges, supplied in decal-form in the kit. The sections require perfect alignment to create a continuous green ring on each side

A close-up look at the engine’s righthand side, revealing metallic tones, light heat-staining on the exhausts and new radiator expansion-chamber from the Top Studio set

Tamiya’s 1:12 Ninja kit is spectacular “ straight from the box, but I wanted to add something more... ” TECHSPEC...

Tamiya’s Detail-Up Parts set for the font forks includes machined and anodised aluminium downtubes, pre-painted rear spring and newly designed moulded components that work with the metal parts

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TAMIYA 1:12 KAWASAKI ZX-RR NINJA KIT NO.14109 Paints used; Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange, X-27 Clear Red, X-19 Smoke, TS-13 Clear, TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black, TS Lime Green (88907) Detail sets used; Top Studio Detail Master MD29005 (£52.99 plus shipping), Rivets 0.7mm (TD23017) Tamiya Detail-Up Parts Series 1:12 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-RR Front Fork Set (12619) Availability; - Tamiya models and accessories are widely available from good model shops and online. UK import and distribution by The Hobby Company Limited; www.hobbyco.net - Top Studio detail sets are available from Hiroboy; www.hiroboy.com

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on by

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FULL-BUILD: FIRST WORLD WAR AVIATION WINGNUT WINGS 1:32 SOPWITH F.1 CAMEL CLERGET ● KIT NO.32074

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Mikael Tefors returns to build the legendary (and long awaited) Wingnut Wings Sopwith F.1 Camel in 1:32

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he history of the Sopwith Camel is the stuff of legends.

Developed as the next generation of fighters from the Sopwith Pup, it is no doubt one of the most iconic fighters of the first world war, probably only rivalled by the Fokker DR.1. Both planes probably owe their stardom from the famous encounter that led to the demise of Manfred von Richthoven, the 'Red Baron'.

Despite being the Allied aircraft credited with the most victories (1,294), it was not an easy plane to fly.

This was due to the design cramming the pilot, engine, fuel and guns into the front third of the fuselage. The design made the Camel very responsive, but also somewhat unstable, echoing the future of the modern-day jet fighter. Handled by an experienced pilot it certainly proved a success on low to mid-level missions. But, even though it served until the end of the war, it was increasingly outclassed by the rapid development of the age. The last RAF Camel was withdrawn from service in the beginning of 1920.

LONG AWAITED PLASTIC

Many fans of WWI had been expecting the Wingnut Wings treatment of the Sopwith Camel for some time, but this proved to be a longer wait than perhaps most thought.

The actual reasons for this we may never know, but WnW don’t always seem to work according to the same logic as many other manufacturers, preferring to release the subjects they like, rather than banking on a 'sure thing'. Needless to say, the modelling world was more than attentive when the release finally came and what a release! No less than five separate boxings, offering all the main engine options and a ship’s Camel as icing on the cake.

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HUMPBACK WITH AN ATTITUDE

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FULL-BUILD: FIRST WORLD WAR AVIATION WINGNUT WINGS 1:32 SOPWITH F.1 CAMEL CLERGET ● KIT NO.32074

COCKPIT V CAMEL Looking at the high level of

detail and engineering, the Wingnut Wings treatment of the Camel is probably the best out there in any scale.

The only possible drawback would be that the gas tank is missing its back. This is an understandable shortcut and not really a problem, unless you decide to open up the back fuselage. Thanks to the wonders of slide injection moulding, the parts-count for the cockpit is surprisingly low for such a high level of detail. Many of the smaller bits are moulded directly on the side frames, which left me only having to clean them up a bit and then putting them directly in the paint booth.

I usually paint most bits before assembly and the Camel was no exception.

Taping, or using dabs of blue tack, I laid the parts on top of large matchboxes before I proceeded with a base coat of Tamiya XF-55. This beige colour lends itself well as a base for further painting of wood and leather. It is also a close match for doped linen. With the base-coat dry, I started painting the various textures, wood being the first. This was done with artists oils using broad brushes and white spirit.

Often, I hear modellers complaining about oil paints' long drying time.

I’ve not personally found this a problem, but to speed things up, one can either first put the dabs of oil onto cardboard which sucks the linseed oil from the paint and also has the benefit of making them matt. Another option would be to mix in a drying agent.

The smaller details were painted with Tamiya acrylics and then an oil colour-wash was applied to add some depth. The metallic tones were achieved with Vallejos relatively new range, 'Metal Color' and for me they are a game changer.

They spray easily, give a smooth finish and can be applied with a brush as well.

The best part is they are water-based and virtually odourless. As the various bits were finished it was time for construction. Here is where I ran into problems.

WnWs are famous for their tight engineering and the Camel is no exception.

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Canvas and wooden parts got a base-coat of Tamiya XF-55 and the metal parts were treated Vallejo Metal Color – Light Aluminium

Engine and firewall wall were easy to assemble and paint

Dry-fitted cockpit parts after oil painting and weathering with oil washes

The framing proved hard to get sitting correctly and, as I knew from experience, this kind of problem would have repercussions on the following stages. So, I dry-fitted everything, including the lower wing using tape and after several trials, I found the problem and could rectify and proceed.

Rigging and control wires were added using EZ line.

CLOSING THINGS UP

As I had spent a lot of effort dry-fitting beforehand, the joining of the fuselage halves and lower wing was uneventful. However, in an effort to more easily fit the firewall, I omitted the tabs on the framing. As it turned out they were not necessary anyway and only made the fit of the wall potentially more difficult. With the glue

dry, there was not much in the form of gaps to fill. I ended up adding some putty along the turtle-deck and some on the belly. The fit of the cockpit coaming was tight and very precise, so precise that the gun-buts needed a bit of a 'pinch' to fit under the coaming. In the process the protective pads fell off and vanished somewhere inside the

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FULL-BUILD: FIRST WORLD WAR AVIATION WINGNUT WINGS 1:32 SOPWITH F.1 CAMEL CLERGET â—? KIT NO.32074

V fuselage – but they would not be very visible in the finished model anyway.

After a couple of sessions with a sanding stick, all looked fine, and it was time for a primer. As I had a half -full aerosol of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, this was what I sprayed on all main components. After this had dried, I sanded all surfaces gently with a fine Micro Mesh 6000 grit in preparation for pre-shading.

The instrument panel really came alive with the decals and detailed painting

TO PAINT A CAMEL

As you have to choose early on which profile to do, I had elected to build AR Brown's Camel B3893 of 9 Naval Squadron that he flew in the autumn of 1917. This is not the same plane he used when chasing the Red Baron to his ultimate fate, but an earlier mount. The exact colour of this, and many other Camels, are uncertain.

They could be finished in either the greener PC10 (exact hue is disputed) or the more chocolatey brown PC12. As PC12 was a dope that came into use later on during the Great War and was often used by the RNAS, this was the colour I chose.

However before reaching this stage, and before applying pre-shading I masked the rib tapes on the undersides with 1mm strips of masking tape. Pre-shading was then applied using Tamiya X-9 Brown, before the strips were removed to reveal sharply outlined rib tapes.

The upper surfaces were pre-shaded using brown and green hues, however the rib-tapes were not accentuated here. The under-surfaces of the wings and tail were duly over-sprayed with Tamiya XF-55 with some clear varnished mixed in, to simulate Clear Doped Linen.

I wanted the pre-shading to show through here, but not too much, so I made several light passes until I was satisfied with the result.

With the clear varnish mixed in the Tamiya paint dries with a sheen and eliminates the need to clear coat the model before decalling. When the CDL surfaces had dried, I masked them off.

As Czech company Mr Paint has recently extended their range to include some WWI colours, I was keen to try them and had picked up a

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The cockpit framing and control wires was rigged with flexible EZ-line

I was careful to dry fit all parts of the cockpit with the main parts of the fuselage. Tolerances are tight and even slight asymmetry can cause escalating problems further on in the build

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Pre-shading for the fuselage was done with browns and greens. The underside rib tapes were first masked with 1.0mm tape strips

few a while back. I therefore sprayed several thin coats of Mr Paint PC12 (MRP-254). I was very impressed with the performance, even though it needed several coats to cover properly, but the flow and finish were superb. They do smell a lot more than, for instance, Tamiya paints though.

With the basic painting done I masked in preparation for the red cowling and tail and then proceeded with Tamiya X-7.

The wooden decking was next in line for treatment.

This was achieved by spraying a brown base of Tamiya Acrylics followed by dark brown oil paints.

The wooden texture was simulated with various

broad brushes. The wood was left to dry for a couple of days, before spraying it over with Tamiya Clear Orange to give it that extra depth.

DECALLING

After everything had dried for a couple of days, it was time for decalling. In preparation of this I buffed the surfaces using a fine 6000 grit pad from Micro Mesh . The Cartograf decals were very nicely printed, but proved a bit troublesome during application. Rather than bending and forming over edges and details, they cracked and broke into pieces.

This was unfortunately not the first time I’ve had this experience with Cartograf decals. They can

First top coat was the red identification – the author misread the instructions and sprayed the tail as well – this was later fixed

be well behaved though.

Building a WnW Sopwith triplane in tandem with this build, I could compare the behaviour of the two sheets, where the triplane worked fine and the Camel not so fine. As they were both applied using the same technique, my conclusion would lean towards good and not so good batches from the supplier. As the decals had settled in their place, I wiped them, using a moist lint free cloth, to get rid of any marks and residues. The model was then over-sprayed with a coat of Alclad 2 Aqua Gloss to seal everything in.

RIGGING AND ASSEMBLY

Once the top wing had settled in its place, it was time to

start sorting out the rigging strands. With the kit on its keel again, I tensioned the rigging lines. As the rigging layout made it a bit difficult for me to use my standard mono/fishing line, I instead, used flexible flat rigging line from Wingnut Wings.

I usually start rigging around the fuselage and work my way towards the wing tips, tackling the lines one by one. I had to be careful though, the flexible line has a tendency to slip out of the pincer grip and with a dab of super glue at the end, it can cause a real mess. The undercarriage was however rigged in my usual manner with mono-line to add a bit of stability.

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The wooden decking around the cockpit was painted with oils and finished with clear orange

Top coats with Mr Paints’ PC 12 over and Tamiya XF-55 under.

The pre-shading brought out the rib tapes on the under surfaces simulating reality

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It’s a good idea to wait with the attachment of the ailerons until most other rigging is done as this makes access a lot easier. With the last strands tensioned and cropped to length, there were only some final details to tend to.

The Camel's propeller was painted with oils to simulate varnished wood and once it had dried, it received a spray of Tamiya Clear Orange. After this had cured, I applied the propeller manufacture logo decals. Last job was the ailerons with its associated control lines and horns. As these had been painted and decalled at the same time as the wings, they were ready to go and were simply glued in place using ‘thick’ cyano.

With the last control line in place, the Camel build was now at an end, and ready to join my growing collection of Sopwiths.

FINAL TAKE

I guess it was only a matter of time before Wingnut Wings released the iconic Sopwith Camel, despite what they had previously claimed. In doing so, they

also proved that it was well worth their effort.

This release wipes the floor with any previous Camel kits in this scale. The build was, not surprisingly, a most enjoyable experience, though the famously tight tolerances almost tripped me up in the construction of the cockpit, which could potentially make the subsequent construction a bit challenging and the decal sheet was not on its best behaviour.

Engineering and slide moulding detail keeps getting even better with every release and this was no exception. I do hope WnW will release the slightly quirky Sopwith Comic, which is a night-fighter conversion of the Camel and a personal favourite of mine.

And as it happens there is a missing number, 32075, amongst the other Camels in the line-up – so who knows?

Highly recommended! ●

Landing gear was rigged with mono-line for stability

Availability; Wingnut Wings kits are available direct from; www.wingnutwings.com Decals were helped in place with mild softener and setter

The engine and wooden decking was masked off during weathering and final matt coating

The upper rib tapes were masked off with thin strips of tape in preparation to the final matt clear coat

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This release wipes the floor with any “previous Camel kits in this scale... ”

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FULL-BUILD: RADIO CONTROL MODEL TAMIYA 1:8 T3-01 DANCING RIDER â—? KIT NO.57405

SPECIAL DELIVERY: ON THREE WHEELS! The Dancing Rider is based on a Japanese three-wheeler so Tamiya being Tamiya, decided to make an RC version.

Despite its focus on their home market, the model based on the new T3-01 chassis has been well received around the world. But just what has made it so appealing?

The kit box is compact and stylish; we expect nothing less from Tamiya

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n recent years, Tamiya has demonstrated that they’re prepared to be brave with some innovative and adventurous models joining their long and prestigious lines. The Jun Watanabe Hornet; a white Hornet with black spots, pink tyres and purple plastic parts and the Tumbling Bull; a 1950s

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Lamborghini-style tractor with the driver model sat precariously atop both spring to mind.

With the Dancing Rider they continue this refreshing trend by releasing a completely new model and design based upon the popular three-wheel delivery trikes seen in Japan.

The bodyshell has been masked up, sprayed and now awaits its self-adhesive decals

SINGLE MINDEDNESS

The Dancing Rider polycarbonate one-piece body is simple to cut out with no dramatic twists and turns.

Tamiya provides masks for the windows and once those are cut out and applied it is time to apply the paint.

The box-art colour is Tamiya PS-63 Bright Gun Metal and looks amazing, but we

decided to go for Tamiya PS-30 Brilliant Blue. With three coats applied there was plenty left in the can and this was certainly one of the more straightforward Tamiya paint jobs.

The instruction booklet is T3-01 chassis-specific with the body instructions on a separate sheet. Wild Willy features in the main

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The central structure with Tamiya LF1100 battery test-fitted

manual, which does make us wonder whether he’ll be a permanent fixture on this chassis line. We hope so.

The chassis construction is straightforward and most of it houses the small Tamiya LF1100 6.6V battery (1100mAh LiFe) with a pivot door underneath for easy access. The Dancing Rider will not accept a standard

The motor in its mount, with large pinion gear in position

battery pack so you need to be aware of this. Despite the size of this model, the steering servo saver construction is heavy-duty with three metal collars because the steering servo has a slightly more complex role in this model compared to the typical RC car as it is responsible for tilting the whole front-end of the chassis.

The heart of the matter; the gearbox and final drive

The gears can be found in parts bags and the plastic bushes need to be removed from parts trees and trimmed. Grease is provided.

The differential is assembled first and sealed into the gearbox and then, something a little different; the rear suspension is constructed and attached. The gearbox pivots on this cam slide suspension

The electronics gear takes up the whole width of the chassis!

and the spring tension can be adjusted with a hex wrench. The rear axles are then assembled and attached along with the 370-size motor. The motor cables tuck neatly into the motor mount and the supplied pinion simply pushes onto the motor shaft. The spur gear is added and by step 10 the gearbox is complete.

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FULL-BUILD: RADIO CONTROL MODEL TAMIYA 1:8 T3-01 DANCING RIDER ● KIT NO.57405

Here we see a close-up of the rear suspension adjuster

TO STEER V TILT The front fork is damped

with springs and pivots loose on the front of the chassis. The front wheel direction simply falls into place based upon the tilt of the whole front-end. The damping on front and rear is minimal but effective and this model most definitely shouldn’t be considered as an off-roader! With the rear wheels attached (we didn’t need to glue the tyres) and some finishing touches (body mounts, antenna

Detail view of rear suspension components

housing), the build of the Dancing Rider is complete.

For the experienced builder, the chassis can be completed in an evening and it is the perfect model for a youngster to use as their first build with the whole concept also being quite educational. ● The chassis is complete, with driver/ rider figure on top!

This sub-assembly is the steering servo assembly

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TECHSPEC...

TAMIYA T3-01 DANCING RIDER KIT NO.57405 Scale: ...........................................................1:8 Class: ................................................. On-Road Application: ................................................Fun Format: ........................................................Kit Power: ................................................. Electric Chassis: .............................................Moulded Drivetrain: ................................................ 2WD Transmission:............................................Gear Differential: ..............................................Gear Shocks: ......Coil spring (front)/cam slide (rear) Bearings/Bushes: ..............................Bushings

BINDERS

Keep your Tamiya Model Magazines safe in a high quality binder.

Each binder holds 12 issues.

£8.50

+ postage (UK - £2.45, Europe - £4.45, Worldwide - £6.45) Surprisingly, the Dancing Rider isn’t Tamiya’s first 1:8 three-wheeler. Way back in 1979 the company released the B2B Racing Sidecar but we’ve had to wait almost thirty years to see another

Available direct from our offices on

+44 (0)1525 222573 or online at:

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FULL-BUILD: MODEL CAR CONVERSION TAMIYA 1:24 1966 VW BEETLE ● KIT NO.24136

S ' E L T BEE !

K A E R B BIG sin body e r a s e s u anto Eero Kum1 Models to create a set from C VW surf van super-retro

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FULL-BUILD: MODEL CAR CONVERSION TAMIYA 1:24 1966 VW BEETLE ● KIT NO.24136

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amiya's 1:24 Beetle can be built in thousands of different styles, but this time I decided to use a resin conversion set from C1 Models and give the whole model a nice surf theme with some patination on it. This model was built in one weekend which is not so typical for me; we had a scale modeling get-together with couple of friends, so the whole weekend was scheduled for some heavy model building! ● Availability; Tamiya models and accessories are widely available from good model shops and online. UK import and distribution by The Hobby Company Limited; www.hobbyco.net C1 Models; www.c1-models.com (conversion set; £42) Highlight Model Studio; www.highlightmodelstudio.com

This is the starting point on a Friday evening. For me, the Tamiya Beetle kit and the resin Panel Van conversion from C1 Models feel very familiar. C1 Models products are of very high quality, so no too much clean-up was needed

Firstly, I replaced the side chrome trims with half-round styrene strip and I also scratchbuilt the upper door hinges. In the Tamiya kit the hinges are moulded with the side mirrors and I decided to use a different style with the mirror only on the driver's side

The rusty look was made with the trendy salt technique, where I have created my own style. After the brown undercoat I apply a couple of layers of hairspray and drop some salt on the surface.

Immediately, once the hairspray is dry I sprayed a thin top layer, in this case white primer from Tamiya

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The stance is an important point of the whole model so it is one of the first things I’m always do. The front tyres comes from Pegasus while rear ones are from Modelhaus. Rims are a find from Japanese scale model shop. Here, the body is already painted with Tamiya TS-1 Red Brown

When the white upper part was dry enough, I masked the body to paint the lower part. The same salt and hairspray-tehnique was used again

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After the spray painting, I removed the salt by rubbing it gently. After that I covered the side trims with the Bare Metal Foil. I prefer the 'New Improved Chrome' since it is easier to use than the regular one

Graphics were painted with acrylic colours by using sharp Tamiya brush

After painting the logos I gave them a little worn effect with sand paper. After this point I applied some weathering to the body with MIG products. I added some tones to rust spots and made some streaks too

This surf-style Beetle has some little custom effects so I decided to go with Singer style Porsche headlights from Scaleproduction, which also perfectly on Tamiya Beetle! Horn trim comes from Highlight Model Studio

The bamboo look is finished with some freehand painting with acrylic colours. At this pint I also added some rope to bumbers

I could have gone with the regular dashboard but I wanted to give this Beetle an older version. Some heavy scratchbuilding was again needed. I created the dashboard from styrene sheet and the old style gauge from Highlight Model Studio was used as a template for making the right shaped holes

One of my favourite details is always the gear shift. This time I started with regular needle and added some details to it. Easy job but looks better than the one that comes with the kit

Here's the ready made interior. The dashboard got the same green colour as the lower part of the body. After that some details were added; aluminium door panels as well the door handles are also productions from Highlight Model Studio

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FULL-BUILD: MODEL CAR CONVERSION TAMIYA 1:24 1966 VW BEETLE â—? KIT NO.24136

To maintain the proper style in the rear part I took some real bamboo strips and started to fit them together

After a good amount of fitting, this is the result. A nice bamboo bed with some styrene trims

The frame has been attached to model at this point and it was also given a window from a thin transparent plastic sheet

Surf boards were finished with a piece of golden vinyl

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modelsforsale.com Plastic model kits, New, Second-Hand, and Discontinued. Books and Accessories.

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Will collect on larger quantities.

Please see our website for more details or please call us.

The rear door is openable in the C1 set, so I decided to add something in the back; a little tool box from Highlight Model Studio

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FULL-BUILD: SCIENCE FICTION MODELLING HASEGAWA 1:20 MASCHINEN KRIEGER GRIFFON ANTI-GRAVITY ARMORED RAIDER PKF.85BIS ● KIT NO.64104

ENGAGE YOUR

IMAGINATION!

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Ever find yourself in a modelling rut, bored with the same old camo schemes and the effort to be historically accurate? Looking for something that gives you complete creative freedom to let your imagination run wild but without the intimidation of scratchbuilding?

If this describes you, then the Maschinen Krieger universe may be just the place for you to visit.

Will Pattison explains...

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aschinen krieger, or MaK as it's commonly known among the 6,000 denizens of its popular Facebook group, it's probably the coolest model-making genre you've never heard of. And, that's understandable given that – unlike other sci-fi genre that originated in a popular game or a movie – this is a world of machines that originated only in the mind of its creator, Kow Yokoyama. In this mad world of 23rd century warfare, Yokoyama-san envisioned a collection of vehicles, spacecraft, robots and mechanized armour suits that he built from scratch, kit bashing, and found objects.

Japan being Japan, the talented industrial designer quickly found a cult following and within a few years kit manufacturers were producing his designs for the masses. And so we have the Hasegawa 1:20 scale Griffon, which is definitely one of the most popular of these kits. It's easy to see why when you look at its large size, simplicity of design, excellent engineering, fit and moulding quality. This is one Hasegawa kit I can highly recommend for builders of all ages.

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FULL-BUILD: SCIENCE FICTION MODELLING HASEGAWA 1:20 MASCHINEN KRIEGER GRIFFON ANTI-GRAVITY ARMORED RAIDER PKF.85BIS ● KIT NO.64104

UPON LAYER V LAYER If you've ever done any work in Photoshop,

the concept of working in layers may already be familiar. Basically, it's a method for introducing effects one at a time, in a sequence that, while individually might not make much sense, will combine in a kind of synergy to produce a certain look. It's easy to relate to those layers in terms of paint but I also consider the mechanical layers.

Photo-etch is a good example…I look at that as a layer of mechanical detail added on top of bare plastic but prior to any paint. Things like antenna wires and pitot tubes could be looked at as not only a final mechanical layer but probably the final layer of any kind to be added to an aircraft model. And, so, the first thing I was considering with the Griffon was what kind of greeblies to add as my first mechanical layer. With my last Maschinen Krieger project, I focused all of that energy on the engine, which is honestly the only part of these kits I don't like. There's lots of opportunity there for scratch building and kit bashing, but it would be nice if Hasegawa would give you a little bit more in the box.

Close-up on the instrument panel, revealing the level of detail in the kit parts

For added strength, the author used a wooden dowel to locate the engine unit to the airframe

TIME FOR PAINT

Once I’d exhausted my creative energies and supply of cool parts it was time to get into paint. I'm a big fan of priming and so my first step was to lay down a smooth coat of Mr. Surfacer 1500. I've become a convert and it's my go-to lacquer primer.

It sprays and lays beautifully cut about 50% with Mr. Leveling Thinner. The black is also perfect for my preferred strategy of black-basing. If you're not familiar with the black basing technique, I encourage you to check it out. The essential process is that you do three steps; prime in black, do what's called a 'marbling layer' to create random patterns, then go over all of that with a blend layer. I choose to augment the airbrushing on the marbling layer with lots of sponge work because I like it for creating effects that have a not-so-airbrushed look to them. I've been asked before if this technique leaves a texture and the answer is… only if you don't thin enough.

Close-up of the cockpit interior showing seat harnesses and cabling, added by the author

56

The larger structural parts were taped together to check for fit

We saw the instrument panel earlier and here is how it looks once painted; alive!

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When I do sponge work with acrylics I usually reduce them as much as 80 or 90%. Anyhow, suffice it to say that black-basing is simply another form of pre-shading that focuses on creating random paint patterns as opposed to working along panel lines or doing modulation, for example. The goal is to create the kind of splotchy effect that generally comes along with wear and tear on the sort of flat paint found on military vehicles. However, before I could get to spraying the marbling layer I had to lay down a few areas of MRP Lacquer Aluminum to get ready for chipping, of which there was going to be plenty on this project. My chipping fluid of choice is regular old medium hold 'TreSemme’ hairspray decanted and run through my airbrush, straight out of the Mike Rinaldi school of weathering. For my particular style of chipping I find it more effective than ready-made products, but those may work just as well for you.

Chipping is one of those things that is largely magic and you really have to do some experimentation to dial-in

The undercoat layers are starting to go on here, building up to a visually enticing matrix of colours and patterns

In this view we can see some of the detail additions made by the author

your own particular method. One of the major variables is the type of paint and thinners you use as that dictates the toughness of the colour coat you'll

be working through. In my case on this project, I was spraying Tamiya acrylic thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner which creates a relatively tough coat.

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This is developing into something extremely interesting! Tamiya Acrylics are being utilised to create a varied pattern of stains and splashes

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FULL-BUILD: SCIENCE FICTION MODELLING HASEGAWA 1:20 MASCHINEN KRIEGER GRIFFON ANTI-GRAVITY ARMORED RAIDER PKF.85BIS ● KIT NO.64104

TIME - NO GLOSS? V DECALLING Once all the chipping and post shading

was done the paintwork was essentially complete and it was time to get to the next step… decals. Now I know some of you are asking… "What? Aren't you going to do a gloss coat first?" and my answer is an emphatic no. This is one of those things that seems to have become a 'rule' and if you have any doubts at all about the strength of your paint skills it's not a bad idea.

However, I prefer to work straight on the paint as much as possible. If you've done a good job laying it down smooth, you should have no problems, especially if you use a good decal setter like Solvaset which is my hammer of choice. It handles even unruly decals

like the ones in this kit.

One thing about decals is that they always look fresh, so I often weather them. Using sandpaper. Again, that may sound like an extreme technique but it's really nothing to be afraid of.

Decals are just layers of lacquer so get after them! The final weathering step on this project was actually a lengthy one. In order to create the random wear and tear effects I wanted – meaning not only a variety of paint defects but a range of tones as well – oil paint rendering was the ideal tool. Again, this is straight out of the Rinaldi school. He chooses to call it 'rendering' because as opposed to simply using washes or blending full strength oils, he uses the entire

range of viscosities to perform all of the tricks necessary to create the desired look. It's a very powerful tool and if you haven't explored oils I strongly recommend it.

FINAL THOUGHTS

To sum it up, this project was great fun and smooth sailing from front to back. The Hasegawa line of Maschinen Krieger subjects is extensive, and all of them are well engineered, simple, and almost perfectly moulded. If you’re looking for a project that takes you off the beaten path yet gives you unlimited opportunity to grow your skills and creative vision, the world of MaK is just what you need! ●

The Hasegawa “ line of Maschinen

Krieger subjects is extensive, and all of them are well engineered, simple, and almost perfectly moulded...

”

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KIT PREVIEW EDUARD 1:72 MIG-21MF PROFIPACK EDITION ● KIT NO.70141

BABY BALALAIKA!

Eduard’s latest release should please fans of Cold War aviation in small-scale

E

duard’s line of 1:48 MiG-21s has expanded impressively since the first kit’s release back in 2011. They are by far and away the best models of this iconic Soviet fighter in any scale – until now – because Eduard have taken their impeccable dimensional data and scaled it down to 1:72, to create a delicious small-scale model.

The new kit depicts the MiG-21MF (M; Modernizirovannyy = modernised, F; Forsirovannyy = uprated engine), the export version of the MiG-21SM that was equipped with RP-22 radar and an R13-300 turbojet.

Eduard’s model comes with decals to re-create one of five aircraft; Polish Air Force early 1990s (natural metal), Czechoslovakian

Air Force 1990s (natural metal), GDR late 1980s (camouflaged), Romanian Air Force 1990s (natural metal) and the Republic of Mail Air Force 2006 (camouflaged). Along with the national insignia for each option, a second sheet of decals is provided with masses of data stencils for the airframe and underwing ordnance, a decent supply of which is provided in the box as standard.

Although scaled down by a factor of seventy-two times, Eduard have not skimped on the detail in this kit. It comes with a very finely rendered cockpit that features sidewall detail, optional moulded or pre-painted side consoles and instrument panel plus a very well detailed ejector seat with, again, pre-painted parts for the

harnesses.

It almost goes without saying that the fuselage and wings are given the recessed panel line and fastener treatment and it looks completely magnificent.

If the kit is built straight from the box, it will look fantastic, but Eduard being Eduard always like to offer the modeller that extra bit more and released along side the kit are no less than six ‘Brassin’ add-on sets for the kit, plus a two sheets of canopy masks. The main Brassin set is replaces the entire cockpit with resin and photo-etched parts, the others providing weapons, wheels, engine nozzle and pylons to up-detail this already highly detailed kit!

More on these sets next issue.

From our customary in-box inspection, this looks like another winner from Eduard and we will be bringing you a full-build article on it soon for the detailed analysis on how it goes together. ● AVAILABILITY; Eduard models and accessories are widely available from good model shops and online. www.creativemodels.co.uk www.eduard.com

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Contact details for companies featured in TMMI... ● ACCURATE ARMOUR/ ARMOUR DISTRIBUTION Units 15-16 Kingston Industrial Estate, Port Glasgow, Inverclyde, PA14 5DG Scotland. Tel; 01475 743 955 Fax 01475 743746 www.accurate-armour.com

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(For 1:6 Action Figures, please contact Amerang in UK)

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● AIRWAVES Via Hannants www.hannants.co.uk

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● MIG PRODUCTIONS C/ Santiago Rusinol 7, Pral 2a, 08750 Molins de Rei, Barcelona, Spain www.migproductions.com In UK; Creative Models ● MODEL DESIGN CONSTRUCTION Unit 3 Hillstown Small Business Center, Mansfield Road, Bolsover, Derbyshire.

S44 6LE. Tel; +(44)1246 82 77 55 orders@modeldesignconstruction.com www.modeldesignconstruction.com ● MODEL WHOLESALE UK LTD Unit 3 Dean Close, Raunds, Northants NN9 6BD Tel; 01892 680009 Fax:01892 522526 info@modelwholesaleuk.com www.modelwholesaleuk.com

● SCHUMO KITS Axel’s-Modellbau-Shop Axel und Bernd Schulze OHG Braustraße 2a 37170 Uslar, Germany Phone: +49 (0) 5571 919 100 Fax: +49 (0) 5571 919 101 www.schumo-kits.com ● SQUADRON.COM Squadron Mail Order 1115 Crowley Drive Carrollton, TX 75006 - 1312. USA ● STUDIO 27 (Grand Prix Models in UK) www.studio27.co.jp ● SCALE MOTORSPORT No.3 Topside Lane, Newtown, Connecticut 06470-2023, USA www.scalemotorsport.com In UK; Grand Prix Models

● MODUNI VERSAND GMBH Böttgerstr. 2-14, 65439 Flörsheim, Germany Tel; 06145 5456-0 Fax; 06145 5456-11 info@moduni.de www.moduni.de

● THE SMALL SHOP PO Box 580, Kalama WA 98625, USA Tel/fax; (360) 673-1255 info@thesmallshop.com www.thesmallshop.com

● MONROE PERDU Monroe Perdu Designs, 3168 Renee Court, Simi Valley, CA 93065, USA. www.monroeperdu.com

● SYLMASTA Halland House, Dale’s Yard, Lewes Rd, Scaynes Hill, West Sussex, RH17 7PG Tel; +44(0)1444 415027, Fax; +44(0)1444 458606.

Email; sylmasta@aol.com

● PANZERWRECKS PO Box 164, Heathfield, Sussex TN21 8WA, UK www.panzerwrecks.com ● PARAGRAFIX 104 County Street, Suite 101 Attleboro MA 02703 USA Tel: +1 508.431.9800 M-F 9am to 4pm EST http://www.paragrafix.biz pgms@paragrafix.biz ● PEGASUS HOBBIES (Selected items via Pocketbond in UK) 5515 Moreno Blvd, Montclair, CA 91763 USA www.pegasushobbies.com ● PLUS MODEL (Creative Models in UK) Jizni 56, 370 10 C. Budejovice, Czech Republic. plusmodel@plusmodel.cz www.plusmodel.cz ● POCKETBOND Bachmann Europe PLC Moat Way Barwell Leics LE9 8EY Tel 01455 841756 info@pocketbond.co.uk ● POL MODELS 64 Cumberland Road, Acton, London, W3 6EY UK polmodels@aol.com ● PRO-ART MODELS www.proartmodels.be ● QUICKBOOST www.quickboost.net ● REVELL UK Revell UK, Unit 10, Old Airfield Industrial Estate, Cheddington Lane Tring, Herts, HP23 4QR, UK ukbranch@revell.de ● RZM PUBLISHING (Greenhill Books In UK) PO Box 995, Southbury, CT 06488 USA Tel; (USA) 203 264 0774 www.rzm.com ● SCHATTON BARRELS Industriestrasse 6, 94347 Ascha, Germany, Fax 09961 910 7826 www.modellbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de email; modellbau.schatton@t-online.de ● SCHIFFER BOOKS Schiffer Publishing, 4880 Lower Valley Rd, Atglen, PA, 19310 USA www.schifferbooks.com ● SCHIFFER BOOKS in UK Bushwood Books, No.6 Marksbury Avenue, Kew Gardens, Surrey TW9 4JF, UK. Tel +44(0)20 8392 8585, +44(0)20 8392 9876, email; info@bushwodbooks.co.uk

● TAMIYA JAPAN Tamiya, Inc., 3-7 Ondawara Suruga-ku, Shizuoka 422-8610 Japan www.tamiya.com ● TAMIYA UK; THE HOBBY COMPANY LIMITED Garforth Place, Knowlhill, Milton Keynes, MK5 8PG, UK Tel; 01908 605686 Fax; 01908 605666 enquiries@hobbyco.net www.hobbyco.net ● TANK MODEL, RUSSIA www.tank-model.ru www.afvmodeller.com ● TANK WORKSHOP 345 Wynbrook Drive McDonough, GA, 30253 USA Tel; (770) 573-1409, Fax; (770) 573-0479 www.tankworkshop.com ● TRUMPETER www.trumpeter-china.com Pocketbond in the UK ● TUNGSTEN DRILLS Allan Sidney No.6, Park Gardens, Holbeach, Lincolnshire, PE12 7PJ allansid@aol.com ● U-MODELS 1103, rue de Feucherolles 78630, Orgeval, France www.u-models.com ● VALLEJO (Creative Models in UK) Acrylicos Vallejo, SL Apartado 337 08800 Vilanova i la Geltrú, Barcelona, Spain Tel; (34) 93 893 60 12 Fax; (34) 93 893 11 54 www.acrylicosvallejo.com ● WORLD WAR TWO BOOKS Military History Books Ltd (Mail order address, callers by appointment) 2 Cysgod Y Bryn, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion, SY23 4LR, United Kingdom Tel; 01970 623778 sales@worldwartwobooks.com www.worldwartwobooks.com ● WIDESPREAD SOLUTIONS Unit 1 Levens Hall Park, Lund Lane, Killinghall, Harrogate, West Yorkshire HG3 2BG, UK. Tel; +44(0)1423 522836 Fax; +44(0)1423 525656 info@graphicair.co.uk www.graphicair.co.uk

n Please mention ‘Tamiya Model Magazine’ if you make contact with any of the companies listed above - thanks!

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A MOVING EXPERIENCE Tamiya's 1:35 Pz.IV Möbelwagen 'furniture van' gets superdetailed

NEXT ISSUE

The next issue of TMMI is September 2018 (No.275), on sale August 16th

UNDERCARRIAGE, UP! Eduard’s 1:48 Bf109F on Das Werk airframe stands

THE CARRIER THAT NEVER QUITE WAS...

Trumpeter’s 1:350 Graf Zeppelin aircraft carrier, full-build

...AND MUCH MORE, OF COURSE! Due to the many factors that can influence the appearance (or non-appearance) of a model in TMMI, the items listed here are shown on a provisional basis. We endeavour to bring you these articles, but please be patient if they do not feature!

Thank you for your understanding.

Order online now at; www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com ISSUE No.274 AUGUST 2018 PUBLISHED ON JULY 19th 2018 Editor; Marcus Nicholls Editorial Assistant; Matt Benfield Publisher; Alan Harman Graphic Design; Alex Hall TMMI Website; The Doolittle Media web team Advertising Manager; Richard Andrews Office Manager; Paula Gray Administration Manager; Hannah McLaurie Halloween Games; Bob Frapples Printed by; Buxton Press Ltd, Derbyshire, UK Distributed by; Seymour Distribution, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London, EC1A 9PT Tel; 020 7429 4000 Newstrade; Select Publisher Services, 3 East Avenue, Bournemouth, BH3 7BW Tel; 01202 586848 Email; tim@selectps.com Tamiya Model Magazine is published on the third Thursday of each month by Doolittle Media Ltd. Editorial enquiries; editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com All other enquiries to; enquiries@doolittlemedia.com Tamiya Model Magazine, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK. Telephone; +44 (0)1525 222573 Editorial enquiries;+44 (0)7904 635 694 Back Issues; From £4.60 Inc. P&P. Back issues from #75 onwards (excluding #79) are available from the UK address below, or online at www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com

Reproduction in part of any text, photograph, or illustration without written consent from the publisher is strictly prohibited. While due care is taken to ensure the contents of Tamiya Model Magazine is accurate, the publishers and printers can not accept responsibility for errors and omissions. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Tamiya Model Magazine only on Doolittle Media’s standard terms of acceptance of advertising, copies of which are available from the advertising department. Please write to the address below. All editorial, advertising, circulation and subscription enquiries should also be directed to the UK address below.

Subscription rates are; 1 year (12 issues); £47 UK, £59 Europe, £72 Worldwide Binders; £8.50 + P&P (UK-£2.45, Europe-£4.45, Worldwide-£6.45).

All prices include postage and packing. For all orders, please call (UK) +44(0)1525 222573 or visit www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com Digital subscriptions available from www.pocketmags.com

✁

TO MY NEWSAGENT...

CONTACT INFO: Tel: +44(0)1525 222 573 Editorial enquiries: +44(0)7904 635 694 Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com Editorial email: editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com Other enquiries: enquiries@doolittlemedia.com www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com

Please order Tamiya Model Magazine International for me and reserve/deliver a regular copy starting with issue:-

Name: ..............................................................................................................................................................................................

Address: ...........................................................................................................................................................................................

The paper used on this title is from sustainable forestry

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© Doolittle Media 2018

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The Editor’s Page...

Yet more of the Editors photographs from Japan!

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EVEN MORE FROM SHIZUOKA:

STAR WARS! A

s I stated last issue – and as you’ve probably gathered by now – I love visiting the Shizuoka Hobby Show!There is so much to see and do that I end up taking photos of everything, with too little space in the magazine to fit it all in. So, indulge me once again with these photos of Star Wars and science-fiction models that caught my eye.

They were beautifully executed and the Death Star was one of those models that the more you looked at it, the more detail you could see, much of it taken from battleship kits it would appear. Fantastic! ●

See you again next time editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com

Editor's Choice

‘LOOK’ INSTRUMENT PANEL SYSTEM: F4U-1A eduard.com creativemodels.co.uk In Issue 272 we took a very brief look at Eduard’s new ‘Look’ instrument panel system, which comprises a cast resin panel with pre-painted dials, over which is a dome of clear varnish to represent the lens. Shown here is the ‘Look’ set for Tamiya’s 1;32 F4U-A Corsair and it looks absolutely amazing. Even it if might seem as though the work is being done for you, the product is well worth taking a look at if you want a super-sharp finish in the

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DELIGHTFUL D THE F-14D TOMCAT HAS ARRIVED!

Following on from the successful 1:48 model of the F-14A in 2016, Tamiya is delighted to announce a new Tomcat version in the 1:48 Aircraft Series: the F-14D, an updated variant of the aircraft that served until the Tomcat was withdrawn from US Navy service in 2006. It featured improved engines in the shape of the General Electric F110 and the aircraft’s transition from the earlier carrier-based fighter models to the F-14D multi-role aircraft was facilitated by digital updates to radar and fire control systems. Some F-14Ds were newly-constructed, while conversions from F-14As also existed.

Take this chance to add a multi-role legend to your collection of 1:48 scale aircraft models!

Sign Up to our Newsletter on www.hobbyco.net Find us on facebook search Plastic Kit UK

HOBBY COMPANY TAMIYA 156.indd 25

Tamiya Kits are distributed in the UK by The Hobby Company Limited, Knowlhill, Milton Keynes, MK5 8PG See the full Italeri range at www.hobbyco.net Italeri models are available from all good model shops

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