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Tankograd 9020 Challenger 1
The Last Cold War Era Tank of Britain’s Armoured Corps. Illustrated with 128 colour photographs and 5 b&w photographs, 64 pages.
Tankograd 7027 Svenska Armèn
Vehicles of the Modern Swedish Army. Illustrated throughout with 135 colour photographs + graphics, 64 pages.
LEOPARD 2 MAINTENANCE
The pictorial walkarounds aim at showing the tank is various stages of disassembly as carried out in the using units on company and battalion level. Among the procedures shown are track removal, removing the turret and the engine or dismantling the add-on armour components. These works are usually not accessible to the public. 222 colour photographs plus 1/35 scale drawings.
a v i d
Tankograd 4019 Deutsche Panzereinheiten in der OZAK
Personalised Vehicle Markings during the German Mission on the Balkans.Illustrated with 139 colour photographs, 64 pages.
German Panzers and Allied Armour in Yugoslavia in World War Two 200 pages, this book is illustrated with 358 blackand-white photographs, most of which are hitherto unpublished. Hardback.
By Michael Rinaldi. There are many “how-to” books in today’s world of scale modeling, but none has covered the “why”, as well as, the “how-to” processes’ the modeler’s artistic approach, until now. Paperback, 208 pages, full colour.
Nuts & Bolts Vol.29: Raupenschlepper Ost RSO und Abarten Authors Volker Andorfer,
Allies in Battledress - Organisation-Uniforms-Insignia-Tanks Tony Greenland, Lutz Konetzny 176 pages and Vehicles-ArmaA4, 375 photos, 166 contemporary photos ment-Equipment from manuals and from the front in b/w, a number previously unpublished; 188 colour photos of the surviving vehicles in public and private collections, 21 colour photos of the two models from Tony Greenland, English. £23.95
Hardback, 152 pages. Very well illustrated. Published by Histoire and Collections.
1945 German Colors, Camouflage Profile Guide
72 pages, more than 180 color renderings showing the many camouflage patterns used on common vehicles, and oddities used by the German forces.
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T ankograd o r d e r
Tankograd 5041 Fahrzeug-Graffiti GECON-ISAF
Tank Art Volume 1 - WWII German Armor
96 pages, paperback, 260 colour photos, authors Ralph Zwilling, Mike Collins.
m a i l
Tankograd 5042 Fahrzeug-Graffiti IFOR-SFOR-EUFOR
U.S 4x4 MRAP MaxxPro in Detail - MaxxPro and MaxxPro Dash DXM
r e a d e r
Personalised Vehicle Markings during the German Mission in Afghanistan.Illustrated with 159 colour photographs, 64 pages.
Tankograd 1007 Panzer - Kraftwagen
This is the most comprehensive publication published on that subject so far. 96 pages this publication is illustrated with 152 black&white photographs.
Painting Pin - Up Figures
A complete Guide for Basic to Advanced Pin-Up Painters. Published by Andrea Press. 86 pages, full colour.
Tankograd 3019 1st Armored Division
Vehicles of the 1st Armored German Armoured Formations Division in Germany 19712011.Illustrated with 101 in the OZAK 1943-45. Illustrated throughout with 137 colour photographs and 17 b&w photographs, 64 pages. black&white photographs + graphics, 64 pages. £13.99
Neuer 5-Tonner Hauber, Forsvarsmuseet Oslo, Leoparden im Waldkampf, Schienen-LKW der Wehrmacht, Newsletter, U.S. Army: Military Police, British Army- Warthog. Please note this is now full German Text only.Fully illustrated.
The Desert War Then and Now
Hardback, 592 pages, over 2000 Black/White and Colour photos, Published by After the T-26 Variants in Detail Battle, author Jean Paul Pallud. Soviet WWII Light Tanks Part One £44.95 72 pages, 110 b+w history photos and 75 colour photos. Published by WWP Books.
Panzer Aces Profiles - Guide The Weathering to Camouflage and Insignia of Magazine “Chipping” the German Tanks 1933-1945 In this issue we will describe Richly illustrated throughout with many colour plates, it also includes a number of period pictures, detailed captions, colour profiles of the mythical German Tanks. 72 pages.
b o o k s
Modelling Trees Part Two - Conifers 92 pages, full colour.
in-depth the weathering effects, £21.95 known as Chipping with the help of a wide range of products and the latest painting techniques, such as sponge, salt, specialist chipping products, brush, and masking fluids. £8.99
Messerschmitt Bf109 F
The Ace Maker The 184 page, A4 size book contains 228 archive photos, colour profiles of 44 aircraft, 19 sheets of aircraft manual reprints with detailed views of the construction, 20 sheets of 1/48 and 1/72 scale drawings, and a folded A2 size sheet printed on both sides with 1/32 scale drawings. £18.99
Modelling Trees Part One - Broadleaf Trees 92 pages, full colour.
P-38 Lightning at War Part 2
Two big decal sheets with 1:72, 1:48 and 1:32 individual markings for 8 P-38 Lightnings. Published by Kagero, 18 pages, full colour.
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Contents - Issue 86 June 2013 16
p 4 NEWS
p 6 THINK TANK
p 52 SMALL SCALE
p 14 PREVIEW
What’s new in the world of military modelling New releases in 1:72 scale and smaller
p 53 BOOKS
Roundup of recent titles
p 54 INCOMING
MMI’s thoughts on the latest kits and accessories
p 60 1:48 SCALE
Luke Pitt explores 1:48 scale military models, figures and accessories.
Allied Airborne Tanks by Bruce Culver Dragon 1:35 Panzer I Ausf. A Leichte Funk
p 16 THE LITTLE GENERAL PT.2 Brett Green paints and finshes Bronco’s 1:35 M24 Chaffee
p 24 STUH RESSURECTION
Mike Rinaldi refinishes an older 1:35 scale Tamiya StuG III Ausf.G kit
p 32 INTERVIEW
Paolo Marcuzzi from Model Victoria
p 66 LAST POST
Late breaking news and ramblings from the Editor
p 34 BATTLE TAXI
Steve Zaloga builds and provides reference for Airfix’s new 1:48 scale Supacat Jackal
p 44 PREVIEW
Meng Model 1:35 155mm Self-Propelled Howitzer AUF1
p 46 HUE AND CRY
Young Miniatures 1:10 scale USMC Radio Operator by Matt Wellhouser
p 50 BUILD PREVIEW
Tel: (UK) 01525 222573 Fax: (UK) 01525 222574 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Address: ADH Publishing, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK
MiniArt 1:35 Ya-12 by Graham Tetley
p 56 BUILD PREVIEW
Italeri 1:35 Gun Truck by Graham Tetley
p 58 PREVIEW
Bronco 1:35 88mm Flak 41 Gun
p 59 PREVIEW
Bronco 1:35 Su-152
©ADH Publishing Ltd 2013
Model Military International is published monthly by ADH Publishing. Reproduction in part or whole of any text, photograph or illustration without written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. While due care is taken to ensure the contents of Model Military International is accurate, the publishers and printers cannot accept liability for errors or omissions.
ISSN 1749-8864 June 2013 - Model Military International 3
p 03 Contents 086B.indd 3
Newsline - June’13
MMI Newsdesk, ADH Publishing, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK Tel:01525 222573 Fax:01525 222574 Email:email@example.com
TANKART Vol. 2 – WWII Armor
Michael Rinaldi has sent Preview information about the next book in the TANKART series, TANKART Vol. 2 WWII Allied Armor. TANKART Vol. 2 WWII Allied Armor will focus on taking real-life observations of paint and weathering effects and incorporate the best techniques to replicate them. Within this second volume, WWII Allied Armor, the author will go deeper into his thoughts about why of certain steps as it relates to Allied camouflage schemes. To bring these ideas to life requires a spectrum of processes and techniques which are covered in great detail; including the Hairspray Technique and the new Oil Paint Rendering -- plus Pigment Applications and Painting Olive Drab chapters that can be combined in an layered array to tell the story of each model. The book format is 8.5" x 9.5", 208 pages, softcover on high-quality book paper. There will be 5 models featured inside, 4 dedicated technique chapters, plus a special bonus figure modelling chapter by Radek Pituch. Inside features over 500 colour photos reproduced in a large format. ISBN 978-0-9883363-2-2
Marmon-Herrington - A History of the South African Reconnaissance Car Inside the Armour Leopard 2A5/A6 PE and Resin Upgrade
This new release from Inside the Armour includes all the resin and photo-etched parts seen in the pictures (except the barrel and barrel parts) - over 400 photoetched parts and 21 resin parts. Includes: 35071 - German Tool Clamps 35077 - Leopard 2 Suspension Upgrade 35068 - PE Welds Parts are also supplied to cover a wide variety of details including the primary sights, cupola rings and details, Peri sight, turret baskets hinges and fittings, engine fans, housings and grills, mud flaps, chains for the smoke dischargers, and engine deck lifting gear. This upgrade may be used on Revell, Hobbyboss and Tamiya kits. www.insidethearmour.com
We have Preview information about a new book by William Marshall: This massive hardbound volume gives an in-depth and detail review of one of the important vehicle types produced and used during W.W.II, a truly international icon, employed by South African, British, New Zealand, Polish, Free French and Greek forces in Greece, Africa and the Middle East as well as Dutch forces in the Far East. While it is of great interest to the historian and researcher, it also supplies a wealth of new information and drawings for the modeller. Includes: Development history, Prototype development, Technical development, Comprehensive operational history, Personal accounts, Details of vehicles used during different campaigns, War Diary information of units that used these vehicles, Post war use by various armed forces until retirement, Comprehensive camouflage & markings information. The best available reference for the forthcoming IBG Models' 1:35 scale kits. Statistics: 176 pages, 229 archival b&w photos, 141 color walkaround photos, 20 full-color plates of artwork, 8 pp 1/35th scale drawings, 7 tables, 2 diagrams, 40 color chips. www.modelbooks.republika.pl
BRONCO NEW RELEASES
Bronco continues on its busy release schedule with four recent announcements. The first one will stretch the definition of a military release, as it has wings, but it is in 1:35 scale – a DFS-20 B-1 Assault Glider, Item No. CB35039. Markings are supplied for Operation Eiche (Oak), so if you have always wanted to build a Gran Sasso raid diorama, here is your chance. The four-man Dragon Fallschirmjager figure set is also included, so you’ll just need to supply your own Mussolini and Otto Skorzeny (although he’ll probably barge into the team whether you want him there or not!) Next is a 1:35 scale Afrika Korps Fiat Topolino Staff Car with crew and an IF8 Infantry Cart. It will be interesting to compare Bronco’s approach to Tamiya’s with their recent Sinca 5, as they are almost identical vehicles. Item No. CB35140 is a set of five WWII British and Commonwealth War Correspondents and Photographers. With their battle dress and leather jerkins, these will be best suited for European theatres. The T9E1 Locust in American service will also be released as kit number CB35162.
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Think Tank - M24 CHAFFEE LIGHT TANK HISTORY PART 2
Post-WWII, the M24 was modified to improve some deficiencies and make the tank easier for forces to use. Early tanks had the mounts for the flotation pontoons added, the old steel T72 tracks were replaced by the T85E1 rubber chevron tracks, and the .50 BMG was moved from behind the loader’s hatch to the forward turret roof where it was accessible to the crew.
M24 CHAFFEE LIGHT TANK PART TWO – THE M24 LIGHT TANK POST-WAR In this concluding instalment, Bruce Culver examines post-WWII development and operators of the M24 Chaffee Light Tank and its variants.
ith the end of hostilities in the Second World War, the US Army had a huge inventory of M24s, some 3833 examples, and requirements from many Allied nations (and some former enemies) for tanks to re-equip armoured units reforming after the war. There were also plans to distribute a large number of M24s to National Guard units across the country. Some deficiencies and problems had been identified during the war and most M24s were modified to improve their capabilities. The wartime T72 steel tracks were replaced with a new T85E1 rubber chevron track very similar to the T49 tracks on many M4 Shermans, the aft-mounted turret .50 M2HB
machine gun was relocated to the forward turret roof, and the 2 inch smoke mortar was eliminated and its place used to mount a second antenna for extra radio equipment. Early tanks were also fitted with the mounts for the wading pontoons that were on the later M24s. Not all modifications appeared on every M24, but most of the post-war tanks did have most of them. In addition, the increased tension with the Soviet Union led to the re-evaluation of American combat strength and the weapons deployed by US forces. While light tanks were intended mainly for scouting and reconnaissance duties, they often had to fight to survive. It had been shown in Korea that the M24’s 75mm was
incapable of knocking out modern medium tanks except under very favourable circumstances. The Army chose to develop a new light tank, based on the concept of the M24 but larger, more powerful, and mounting a high-velocity 76mm anti-tank gun. This was standardised in 1951 as the M41 light tank, and the Army – adopting British practice – named the new vehicle the Walker Bulldog, after Gen. Walton Walker, who was killed in a jeep accident in Korea. The M41 had replaced the M24 in Army front-line service by 1953.
EXPORT AND REWORKING With such a large number of obsolescent M24s in their inventory, the United States began providing them to a large
number of countries. With the formation of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO), the U.S. supplied M24s to a number of NATO countries including France and Italy, plus hundreds supplied to non-NATO countries, such as Austria, and further examples sent to Asia. The M24 was a popular tank for smaller countries. Though not the most effective tank available, it was simple and cheap to operate and provided excellent training experience. Many nations gave their M24s to other countries as they removed them from inventory and thus M24s served in some 29 countries, a few as captured or surrendered vehicles. Some countries upgraded their M24s to keep them in front-line or reserve service. Norway received
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123 M24s under the Military Defense Aid Program (MDAP) and extensively modified the survivors in the 1970s, installing a new engine and a new French-designed 90mm gun. These rebuilt tanks were renamed the NM-116, and served until the mid-1990s. But the record for M24 longevity must go to the tanks operated by the Uruguayan army. Having operated the M24 for a number of years, the Uruguayan army reworked its tanks with a new 90mm Cockerill gun from Belgium and a Scania diesel engine for better mobility. The 17 modified Uruguayan M24s are the last M24s known to be in active service as of June 2012.
SELF-PROPELLED GUNS As mentioned in Part 1, the Cadillac Division of General Motors had been tasked with developing a family of light armoured specialpurpose vehicles to mount selfpropelled weapons. Originally designed using the stretched and widened chassis of the M5A1 light tank, this family of vehicles, referred to as the Light Combat Team, was intended to field several self-propelled guns on a common chassis built for the purpose. As the chassis of the M5 was not fully suitable, Ordnance decided to ask Cadillac to redesign the common chassis using the components of the new T24 light tank. Design of the original Light Combat Team had influenced the work on the T24 and now the tankâ€™s new chassis led to the rework of the self-propelled (SP) gun mounts. Development of the M24-based Light Combat team began in 1943 and comprised three vehicles, a self-propelled mount for the 105mm howitzer, a second vehicle mounting a 155mm medium howitzer, and a third one mounting twin 40mm Bofors anti-aircraft guns in a fully-rotating turret. The intent was to make smaller, more versatile self-propelled mounts than the expedient early war vehicles then in service. Of these three, the SP mount for the twin Bofors 40mm AA guns appeared first as the T65 on the stretched M5 chassis and the T65E1 on the T24 chassis. It was standardised as the M19 Gun Motor Carriage (GMC). An unarmed supply vehicle had been planned, but was cancelled and production M19s used the M28 ammunition trailer instead. Due to the lack of effective enemy air power in the summer of 1945, there was no pressure to produce and field the M19 and only 300 were produced, and even then, none had turrets or guns until the end of hostilities in August 1945. None were exported to other
As part of the formation of NATO, the M24 was supplied to many European nations to help them re-equip their forces. This Belgian M24 took part in NATO exercises, a common sight in the 1950s and 60s in a number of countries. Many M24s stayed in service until the 1970s.
M24s served in the South Vietnamese army for many years after the start of the Vietnam conflict. They also backed up a number of coups and attempted coups in the cutthroat politics of the South. Many of these tanks lasted through the end of the Vietnam War in 1975.
Greece was another NATO country that received a large number of M24s and used them for many years. This example lacks the fittings for the flotation pontoons but has the T85E1 tracks and relocated turret machine gun, one of a number of detail variations possible. June 2013 - Model Military International 7
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Think Tank - M24 CHAFFEE LIGHT TANK HISTORY PART 2
This Greek M24, seen during Operation “Gordios Desmos” (Gordion Knot) in 1956, has two mounts for the turret .50 heavy Browning MG and the new rubber tracks. The national cross on a shield was seen on most Greek tanks at this time.
This M24 in Greece, 1956, shows the usefulness of tanks as transports behind the front lines. Each tank could carry a dozen men or more, a help when budgets didn’t allow enough armoured personnel carriers.
Uruguay was one of a number of countries that received the M24 under the Military Defense Aid Program (MDAP). The 17 remaining examples were modified with a new diesel engine and a new 76mm gun to upgrade the system, and today these are the only M24s still in service.
B countries in the post-war years as
there were so few of them. The M19 GMC used the Light Combat Team chassis set up for artillery. The engine was moved to the middle of the vehicle and the guns and turret were carried in the rear. There was little room for ammunition stowage in the turret and ammunition bins were mounted around the outside of the turret but fixed on the hull; they did not rotate with the turret. There was a crew of five (or six if a section leader sat in the M19) and the twin Bofors 40mm cannon could elevate from 5 to 85 degrees and rotate
360 degrees. It is interesting that the successor to the M19, the M42 “Duster”, was built on the chassis of the M24’s successor, the M41 Bulldog, and that the M42 had the engine placed at the rear of the chassis with the guns and turret in the centre of the vehicle. The M19 GMC was modified to carry a generator to operate the vehicle when the engine was shut down, and this model was designated the M19A1. M19A1s operated during the Korean War, but due to the lack of enemy air activity over the front lines, M19A1s were most often used against
The T77E1 prototype anti-aircraft gun motor carriage mounted six .50 M2HB adopted for production. With the advent of faster, heavier jet aircraft, it was felt
ground targets. They proved to be very effective against infantry, vehicles, and light fortifications. Like other members of the Light Combat Team, the M19A1 was too late for WWII, and then bypassed by improved vehicles a few years later, having a fairly short service life in the US Army. Another concept that was tested was the T77E1 Multiple Gun Motor Carriage (MGMC). This was a standard M24 tank with a new larger turret mounting six .50 M2HB Browning heavy machine guns as a rapid fire antiaircraft weapon system, similar
to the “Skink” anti-aircraft tank developed by the Canadians on the chassis of the M4A1 Sherman medium tank. Though the mounting proved successful, the T77E1 was dropped because it was felt the tank would not be able to engage the new faster jet fighters then being used at the end of WWII. There were a number of other test concepts, but none reached production and most remained concepts only.
T76 / M37 Howitzer Motor Carriage The M7 Priest 105mm Howitzer Motor Carriage (HMC) was a
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heavy mac the .50 M
50 M2HB it was felt
Norway maintained its fleet of M24s longer than many other European countries by modifying the tank with a new gun and engine, resulting in this NM-116. It had a 90mm French gun, and was the last version of the M24 to remain in service in Europe, until the early 1990s.
heavy machine guns in a new enclosed turret, but the design was not the .50 M2HB was too light to be an effective weapon.
perfectly serviceable vehicle, but it was known that the chassis was too large for the weapon, having been chosen as the best match for the howitzer and required ammunition based on what was available â€“ the chassis of the M3 medium tank. Building a similar self-propelled 105mm howitzer on the light tank chassis would provide better mobility at less cost. In addition to the new chassis, Ordnance chose to use a modified model of the M4 howitzer planned for the M4 and M4A3 (105mm) medium tanks. The new design was tested as
This photo from the manual for the M19 40mm gun motor carriage shows the basics of the layout. The engine is placed in the hull center with the gun mount at the rear. Limited interior stowage for ammunition required the installation of ammunition boxes around the turret. The 40mm Bofors had a longer range than the .50 BMG, but a much lower rate of fire.
the T76 HMC in mid-1944, and featured a different chassis from the M19 GMC. For the T76, the engine was kept at the rear of the hull and the superstructure built above it. The 105mm M4 howitzer was mounted in an armoured mantlet in the superstructure front plate, with a raised pulpit for a .50 Browning M2HB on the right front corner of the vehicle. After a number of required changes, the T76 was standardised as the M37 HMC in January 1945. Because of the late standardisation date, none of the 316 vehicles actually built were completed during the
war; production didnâ€™t start until October 1945. The M37 did serve in the Korean war and subsequently 36 were sold to Spain and served there in two units. The M37 was eventually replaced by the fully enclosed turreted M52, based on the M41 Bulldog tank chassis. The last version of the Light Combat Team was the mount for the M1 155mm medium howitzer. Both Ordnance and the using arms had pushed for a heavier SP mount for this weapon to supplement the lighter M37 HMC and its M7 predecessor. Development actually started in late 1942 as the T64,
part of the original Light Combat Team based on the M5A1 chassis, but was transferred to the T24 chassis in 1943. The new version was designated T64E1 and was started in January 1944 and had a chassis design almost identical to that of the M19 GMC: engine in the mid portion of the hull and the howitzer mounted in the rear. The T64E1 also had a recoil spade mounted on the hull rear to stabilize the vehicle during firing. Like the M19, the front of the M41 hull was very similar to the T24/ M24 light tank, reflecting their common ancestry. A
June 2013 - Model Military International 9
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Think Tank - M24 CHAFFEE LIGHT TANK HISTORY PART 2
This M19 manual photo illustrates tool and equipment stowage, and the prominent ammunition boxes on the turret. The M19 carried a crew of five, including two loaders. A sixth man, the section leader, rode in the assistant driver’s position when commanding a section.
M19s in Korea were used almost exclusively for ground support. The 40mm guns were effective against enemy troops, light fortifications, buildings, bridges and vehicles.
This M19 in Korea tows a standard M28 ammunition trailer. Except for nuisance raids, air superiority over much of the Korean front line area and M19s did not engage enemy
the UN fo aircraft v
This T41 “Gorilla” 155mm howitzer motor carriage was developed as part of the new Light the M24 light tank chassis. It mounted the standard M1A1 155mm field howitzer at the rear of concept to the M19 40mm gun motor carriage.
Combat T the hull a
An M41of Battery A, 92nd Field Artillery Bttn. (FAB), US 8th Army, is seen near Kumhwa, Korea laying down covering fire, 6 August 1952. The M41 proved to be an excellent weapon, easy to emplace and use, providing highly effective supporting fire for surrounding troops.
It isn’t every day a Lt. General fires an artillery piece. This Yanggau in Korea, June 1951,
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nce raids, ge enemy
new Light he rear of
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As an open topped vehicle, the M19 in Korea exposed the crews to the vagaries of Korean weather. Here, the crew of this M19 looks decidedly chilly; Korean winters were notoriously brutal. Note the enclosed bad weather hood for the driver, with its manually operated wiper.
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This M41 155mm howitzer motor carriage of the 7th Infantry Division, near Sinhung, Korea, is protecting the perimeter around the seaport city of Hamhung during the withdrawal of the 1st Marine Division from the Chosin Reservoir, 2 December 1950.
CB35103 German Telemeter KDO Mod.40 with Sd.Anh 52 Trailer (Kommando-Gerät 40) £19.99
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s an artillery piece. This M41 of Battery A, 96th FAB, was photographed near
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Though the M41 was a mobile weapons system, the task of laying in ammunition supplies was the same in Korea as any theater of operations. Here the crews prepare a firing and ammunition handling site, with un-fused 155mm rounds piled in the foreground.
Phone: 00 44 (0)1502 517444 (8 lines) 0845 130 72 48 local rate from UK phones only (NOT mobiles) Fax: 00 44 (0)1502 500521 E-Mail: firstname.lastname@example.org Web Site: www.hannants.co.uk To join our mailing list so you receive our free weekly email news letter pleaseInternational use this link: 11 June 2013 - Model Military www.hannants.co.uk/cgi-bin/mailinglist.pl
Think Tank - M24 CHAFFEE LIGHT TANK HISTORY PART 2 B The T64E1 was standardised
as the M41 HMC in June 1945, after extensive testing. Due to the very late standardisation, which delayed production, only 85 were built before most contracts were cancelled at the end of the war. The M41 HMC did not serve in WWII but did serve in a number of field artillery units in the Korean War, where the extra punch of the 155mm howitzer was effective against most types of enemy targets.
Legacy And so the story of the best US light tank of WWII comes to an end. A very popular and effective light tank in 1944/45, the M24 was eclipsed in just a few years by its much more powerful and versatile successor, the M41 Bulldog. The Light Combat Team of self-propelled gun mounts derived from the M24 also lasted just a few years when they too were replaced by derivatives of the later M41 light tank, although they were all effective and efficient designs. Examples of the M24 tank and all the members of the Light Combat Team exist in museums, but only the 17 M24s in service in the Uruguayan army remain of the more than 4700 M24s built during WWII. n
The M37 105mm howitzer motor carriage was intended to replace the larger M7 HMC mounting the 105mm howitzer. It was substantially lower and better integrated and had better overall performance. Post-war cancellations after V-J day limited production to 150 vehicles.
This top view shows the M37 interior layout. The M37 carried 126 rounds for the M4 howitzer, 6 in a ready rack. All the carried ammunition was protected from shell splinters by the full-height side armour plates, but like all open-top artillery vehicles, there was no overhead protection for the crew or ammunition. The M37 HMC had a crew of 7.
Although much lower gun mounting. The
The M37 105mm howitzer m compartment was a simple those added to WWII M7s.
Along with many other vehicle types, the M37 HMC was stationed in Germany, like this example seen in the 1950s during a camouflage exercise. Though available in limited numbers, the M37 was a useful vehicle and was a real improvement over the wartime M7 and M7B1 HMCs.
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than the M M4 105mm
uch lower ting. The
than the M7, the M37 105mm howitzer motor carriage provided better crew protection and a much more efficient M4 105mm howitzer was the same model used in the WWII 105mm Shermans.
he M37 105mm howitzer motor carriage used a lengthened M24 chassis with the engine still in the rear. The main crew mpartment was a simple box shaped structure protecting the crew and the ammunition. Stowage racks on the rear were similar to ose added to WWII M7s.
This M37, seen at the National Desert Warfare Training Centre in the 1950s, is actually overall Olive Drab but is so covered in dust it appears to be white. Military vehicles tend to have some traces of oil and grime that attract dust and dirt, and the desert is where that is most evident.
Keep your Model Military International collection safe in a high quality binder. Each binder holds 12 issues.
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Dragon 1:35 Leichte Funk Panzer 1 A • Kit No. 6491
Graham Tetley explores Dragon’s latest addition to their Panzer I family, combining sprues from three kits plus some new parts as well.
ADD A LITTLE FUNK TO YOUR DAY
very rare variant with only a handful being built, Dragon’s latest addition to their 1:35 scale Panzer I family gives us the forerunner to the command version that we all know and love. Dragon has combined sprues from three different kits to give us this vehicle. It is crisply moulded and comprises of over 520 parts, although 192 of those are track links and approximately 110 parts are unused. Standard of moulding and detail is excellent with no visible flaws present. There are very few new parts to this version, the main ones being the upper hull superstructure and the (very fine) antenna guard and mount. The latter were unused from kit 6597 so, if you have that kit, you now have spares! The road wheels come with photo-etched rims to facilitate the undercut on the originals, but if you don’t want to fiddle with the etched rims then an
alternative set of wheels is included. The whole suspension system is superbly detailed and complimented by the ‘Magic’ tracks, which are tiny but really look the part when completed. I would recommend fitting the rear plate in step three, but then jumping forward to complete the superstructure. Once done, dry-fit the engine deck, superstructure, running boards and front glacis and then glue the whole lot when you have twiddled it around to avoid gaps. With this version, Dragon gives us a modified interior that differs from the original (kit 6356) by the addition of radios, battery boxes and some excellent plastic and new etched radio frames. Some details are missing however, as Dragon does not give you the tread plate pattern on the floor, some bits on the rear bulkhead or a driver’s instrument panel. That said, what we have is good enough when viewed through the tiny hatches.
Looking at the exterior details, the jack is fully detailed and all tools and clasps are depicted in plastic. Etched guards and mounts are provided to go around both mufflers, as are the grilles for the rear of the engine deck. Regarding the rear end, Dragon give us the option of using either the flat or rounded rear deck as well as an optional smoke candle rack. The decals provided give us three marking options: a plain grey and a grey/red brown ‘unidentified’ unit from 1939 and a more attractive, 3-tone pre-war 1st Panzer Division vehicle. In summary, this is a good kit of pre-war Panzer 1 variant. Detail is nice and sharp and there are no major errors to speak of. This is another one from Dragon to keep us Panzer 1 fans happy, and comes highly recommended. ■
The new superstructure.
Hatch detail and the new antenna mount.
The main interior floor.
The radio sprue.
Thanks to The Hobby Company Limited for the sample www.hobbyco.net
Sprockets and idlers.
The lovely suspension units.
Sprue H with the new parts.
Dragon’s goody bag!
Front fender detail.
The fine parts will need extra time and care in preparation. The new road wheels and photo-etched inserts.
14 Model Military International - June 2013 The new photo-etched fret.
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Bronco 1:35 US Light Tank M24 Chaffee (Early Prod) • Kit No. CB-35069
THE LITTLE GEN
PART TWO – PAINTING, WEATHER
The Editor paints Bronco’s 1:35 scale M24 Chaffee and adds a crew.
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ATHERING AND FIGURES
n the first instalment, we left Bronco’s 1:35 scale M24 Chaffee just after construction was completed. Legend Productions’ Item No. LF1242 “M24 Chaffee Stowage Set” had been fitted, and two Air Identification Panels and a folded tarpaulin were fabricated from Kneadatite two-part epoxy putty. With the sometimes-complex construction finished, now it was time to have a bit of painting fun.
PAINTING CONSIDERATIONS I prepared the model for paint with a coat of Tamiya’s Grey Primer straight from the spray can. This is especially important considering the resin stowage on board. A coat of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black followed, applied roughly around the tracks and running gear. I am still experimenting with Olive Drab finishes, and I am not sure that I have really hit on the ideal formula yet. I therefore decided to try something a bit different again for this project. I received a few Lifecolor Easy 3 sets during 2012 and used one of these to paint Tamiya’s Elefant as described in MMI Issue 81. These are sets of three related shades designed to deliver contrast and desaturation. One of the Lifecolor sets is Acrylic U.S. Army AFV Olive Drab, Easy 3 Set No. MS03, which comprises UA 255 Olive Drab Flashed Shade (highlight), UA 256 Olive Drab Ground Colour (base colour) and UA 257 Olive Drab Deep Shade (for shading). The last time that I used Lifecolor acrylics, I achieved the best results with only a small amount of thinners. Usually I use 50% or more thinner in my airbrush mix, but this ratio will result in a wet glaze when using Lifecolor. There are two other important considerations when using Lifecolor acrylics. Firstly, they really need a solid primer coat to help the first coat stick (Tamiya’s Grey Primer works very well); and secondly, they work best when used with Lifecolor-brand thinners. I have tried a number of alternative thinners – distilled water, Windex, isopropylene alcohol and even lacquer thinners – but the paint tended to clump and clog the nozzle when using anything but Lifecolor’s own thinner.
DOES DRAB HAVE TO BE DRAB? Starting with the base shade (UA 256), I added only 15% Lifecolor thinner to the paint. The mixture looked very thick in the paint cup,
but it sprayed well. I was careful to spray as thinly as possible and a bit away from the surface. Even so, the paint stayed wet on the surface for a few minutes and drew away from the edges of the model. I applied heat from a hairdryer to speed the drying process and confirmed that a second coat was called for. The second coat covered the plastic much better. After a second blast from the hairdryer, the result was a smooth, tough and even greenish Olive Drab coat. I followed this base by spraying random streaks and mottles of the “Flashed Shade” (UA 255), once again with only 15-20% thinners and applying heat from a hairdryer between the two coats. Next came the Deep Shade, UA 251. This was sprayed into crevices, structural features and natural shadow areas. As I found when painting my Elefant last year, the Lifecolor paints do not spray as easily nor dry as quickly as Tamiya acrylics. However, the colours are interesting and the finish is extremely durable and resists buffing (i.e. repeated handling will not effect the flat finish). It also handles filters and washes well. Initial weathering was now applied – first a thin overall coat of Mig Productions’ Earth Wash followed by a more substantial AK Interactive Dark Brown Wash around the key structural features. With the model now looking nice and dirty, I sprayed a couple of glossy coats of Future Floor Polish in preparation for the decals.
ALLIED TANKS VS. THE AMERICAN LUFTWAFFE While I had a nice acrylic barrier over the top of the basic Olive Drab, I decided to paint the stowage, tools and other details. I started with the two Air Identification panels. These were used in the European Theatre from D-Day until the end of the war as a way for Allied aircrews to distinguish German from US and British vehicles on the ground. The US Army Panel Set comprised a fluorescent pink/red panel and a fluorescent yellow panel. A blue panel was available too, but this was only used by vehicles behind the front lines. Each of the panels was backed with white, and this could be used in combination with the other colours. Two versions were available – either 12 feet long and 28 inches wide; or a shorter 6 foot long pennant. After the Germans became aware of the use of the panels, A
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Bronco 1:35 US Light Tank M24 Chaffee (Early Prod) • Kit No. CB-35069
The completed model ready for paint. A base coat of Tamiya Grey Primer was applied straight from the spray can.
The tracks, running gear and turret interior were roughly sprayed black to speed detail painting later on.
The Legends resin stowage set has been supplemented with Air Identification Panels and a folded tarpaulin custom made from Kneadatite two-part epoxy putty.
B they were rotated in combinations
of red, yellow and white according to a schedule that changed on a weekly basis. I chose red and yellow as my combination. As these colours are notoriously tricky to paint, I started with a base coat of Vallejo acrylic White, followed by mixes of Vallejo colours applied by brush for the fluoro red and yellow. The borders of the panels were carefully brush painted brown to complete the paint job.
PICKING OUT THE DETAILS The various packs, rolls and crates were picked out with half a dozen different Vallejo acrylic colours. Some of these looked a bit lurid when they were first painted, but later weathering tones things down. The stowage was treated to a dark wash of heavily thinned Winsor & Newton Lamp Black and Raw Umber oil paints. The edges of some of the straps and selected details were also painted with fine lines of a very dark brown shade to help the strap detail leap out. The straps for the packs were
carefully picked out in a lightened shade of Vallejo Panzer Aces 312 Leather Belt; while the tool handles were painted in 311 New Wood. The bucket, cables, walkie-talkie and tool heads were painted with a 50/50 mix of Tamiya acrylic XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown.
MARKINGS Bronco’s decals are probably the best that I have experienced in any military vehicle kit. They are perfectly opaque, the whites look like they have come straight from a Colgate toothpaste commercial
and the thin decal film disappears completely under a flat coat. Importantly, the decals dry to the same level of sheen as the surrounding paint after the flat coat too. Once the decals had set, the model received two thin overall coats of Testor’s Flat Clear Lacquer Finish.
MORE WEATHERING AND FINISHING TOUCHES Although Bronco provides individual clear parts for the Commander’s cupola vision
I started by spraying the base shade, UA 256. I added only 15% Lifecolor thinner to the paint. This coat did not cover completely.
Lifecolor’s U.S. Army AFV Olive Drab Easy Set 3 was used for painting the camouflage.
I applied heat from a hairdryer to speed the drying process and confirmed that a second coat was called for. Note how the paint has drawn away from the edges and high areas of plastic.
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Next came the Deep Shade, UA 251. This was sprayed into crevices, structural features and natural shadow areas.
I followed a second coat by spraying random streaks and mottles of the “Flashed Shade” (UA 255), once again with only 15-20% thinners and applying heat from a hairdryer between the two coats.
Initial weathering was now applied – first a thin overall coat of Mig Productions’ Earth Wash.
Next, a more substantial AK Interactive Dark Brown Wash was applied around the key structural features. This was thinned and feathered with a brush wet with turps.
at from eed the firmed for. Note from the c.
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Bronco 1:35 US Light Tank M24 Chaffee (Early Prod) • Kit No. CB-35069
The model received a couple of glossy coats of Future Floor Polish in preparation for the decals later on.
The effect following the broad and pin washes.
B blocks, I thought that it might
be interesting to try something a bit different. With the flat coat complete, I mixed up a gooey blend of Tamiya X-25 Clear Green and Gator’s Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue. This was carefully applied to one side of the empty spaces with the tip of a toothpick, then drawn across to fill the area. The result was a nice shiny green-tinted vision block in each space with no risk of smearing glue on the small clear parts.
I next added chips and scrapes using Vallejo’s German Black Highlight colour applied with the tip of a fine brush and a small piece of sponge. The wheels and tracks were finished to represent areas of wet and dry mud. The base (dried) mud was Easy Mud Item No. 21105 – European Earth. Once this had set, it was followed by a liberal brushed application of AK Interactive’s Dark Brown enamel wash. Once dry, some of the dark wash was Detail painting commenced with the Air Identification Panels. They received a base coat of Vallejo acrylic 919 Foundation White.
scrubbed off with a stiff brush to provide more contrast between the dry and wet areas. The same products were used for the mud effects on the bottom of the front and rear hull. The final weathering task was to apply mud splashes to the front of the vehicle. I mixed up a blend of pigments, mainly Vallejo 73104 Light Siena and water, and loaded up an old paintbrush with the slurry. The airflow was directed from a low angle to suggest that
the mud spatters were kicked up by vehicles in front of my Chaffee.
FIGURES I still don’t feel confident painting figures, but I do like the sense of proportion and historical perspective that they can lend a model. I bought two sets of Legends figures but only ended up using one of them (Item No. 3522 – US Tank Crew WWII). His companion is an Ultracast A Tool heads, machine gun barrels, tracks and the tow cables were brush painted with a thin mix of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown.
This was followed by mixes of Vallejo colours applied by brush for the fluoro red and yellow. The borders of the panels were carefully brush painted brown to complete the paint job.
The various packs, rolls and crates were picked out with half a dozen different Vallejo acrylic colours.
Some of these looked a bit lurid when they were first painted, but later weathering tones things down.
The bright green packs were overpainted with a more subdued colour before the model was finished.
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The .50 cal machine gun is a real gem.
A rudimentary crash pad was made from a leftover scrap of Kneadatite to cover rhe ejector pins on the inside of the Commander’s hatch.
The kit’s clear cupola vision blocks were replaced with a thick goo mixed from Tamiya X-25 Clear Green and Gator’s Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue.
A copper wire handle was also added to the outside of the hatch. Details are ready for final painting.
A blob was applied to the edge of each opening and drawn across. The surface tension holds the compound in place as the glue dries.
Note the appearance of the vision blocks now that the acrylic glue has dried. The rear turret mount for the .50 cal machine gun was a WWII characteristic.
The result is a row of shiny and translucent green-tinted vision blocks.
The wheels and tracks were finished to represent areas of wet and dry mud. The base (dried) mud was Easy Mud Item No. 21105 – European Earth.
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Bronco 1:35 US Light Tank M24 Chaffee (Early Prod) • Kit No. CB-35069
This was followed by a liberal brushed application of AK Interactive’s Dark Brown enamel wash.
Once dry, some of the dark wash was scrubbed off with a stiff brush to provide more contrast between the dry and wet areas.
Mud splashes were sprayed onto the front of the vehicle.
Bronco’s decals are “ probably the best that I
have experienced in any military vehicle kit...
Crew figures were sourced from Legend Productions and Ultracast.
The attractive profile of this versatile tank.
Each figure was primed, then the faces painted.
Basic uniform colours have been applied here. Not very realistic so far!
The completed model.
Vallejo paints were used for the uniforms. The clear lenses of the goggles were obtained with a thick coat of Future floor polish.
The figures after a wash of Mig Productions’ 502 Abteilung Abt.090 Industrial Earth oil paint, some selective dry brushing and picking out highlights with a paler shade. It makes a big difference, but be careful not to go overboard.
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B figure, perched on the side of the turret (Item No. 35026 – American Tank Crewman Europe 1943-45). Although the Ultracast figure was designed for a Sherman tank, he fits quite nicely on the Chaffee too. The Legends figure was destined to be the Commander, so I measured his total height and cut off his legs at an appropriate length to rest securely on the mount inside the turret. The figures were then assembled with the exception of the Ultracast head and left hand, which were painted separately and attached at completion. Both figures were primed then the faces and hands were sprayed with Tamiya XF-15 Flat Flesh as a base for the skin tones. This was followed by a fairly heavy wash of thinned Rowney Georgian Oil Paint 221 Burnt Sienna, which flowed nicely into low-lying areas including the mouths and eyes. Painting of the skin tones continued with a range of Vallejo Panzer Aces acrylics, mixed, remixed and reapplied on a trial-and-error basis – no magic formula here unfortunately! I have, however, provided a detailed list of the colours used in the Modelspec section following this text. The base uniform colours were also sourced from Vallejo’s
The figure perched on the edge of the Chaffee is from Ultracast. He was not specifically designed for this model, but he looks pretty comfortable.
Bronco 1:35 US Light Tank M24 Chaffee (Early Prod) Kit No. CB-35069 Accessories Used Legend (LF1242) – M24 Chaffee Stowage Set Legend (3522) – US Tank Crew WWII Ultracast (35026) – American Tank Crewman Europe 1943-45, M Workshop Non-Fuzzy String Tools and Materials Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement, Revell Contacta Cement, Selley’s Super Glue, Gator’s Acrylic Glue, Tamiya Surfacer, Kneadatite Blue/Yellow Epoxy Putty Tape, Iwata HP-CH Airbrush Paints and Finishing Products:
acrylic range. A wash of thinned Mig Productions 502 Abteilung Abt.090 Industrial Earth oil paint was brushed over the uniform colours and allowed to dry before further highlights and shading with more Vallejo acrylics. The figure painting was completed with two generous coats of Testor 2015 – Flat Clear Lacquer Finish and a thick coat of Future floor polish on each of the goggle lenses.
CONCLUSION I was apprehensive about starting this kit due to the sheer number of parts, the tiny proportions of
a number of the suspension subassemblies and the small individual track links. In the end, however, I found myself agreeing with Bronco’s statement in their instructions – “It will require a little more care in assembly, but you feel the end result is well worth the effort.” This kit certainly demands your respect, your attention to the instructions and ample time. The running gear and the gun breech command the most patience in assembly. Even so, there is nothing that an experienced modeller won’t be able to handle. The fit is excellent, and the click-link individual tracks are fast to assemble and look great on the model. I would happily recommend Bronco’s 1:35 scale M24 Chaffee as an absorbing project for experienced modellers. ■
Crew figures bring a sense of proportion to any scale model. This was a sometimes challenging but rewarding project.
Vehicle Paints: Tamiya Spray Cans - Grey Primer; Fine White Primer. Lifecolor US Army AFV Olive Drab Easy 3 Set. Item No. MS03. Contains UA 255 Olive Drab Flashed Shade; UA 256 Olive Drab Ground Colour; UA 257 Olive Drab Deep Shade. Tamiya Acrylic – X-25 Clear Green; XF-1 Flat Black; XF-64 Red Brown. Vallejo Model Colour – 70801 Brass; 847 Dark Sand; 70862 Black Grey; 70863 Gunmetal Grey; 70865 Oily Steel; 70873 US Field Drab; 70893 US Dark Green; 919 Foundation White; 70922 USA Uniform; 70953 Flat Yellow; 70955 Flat Flesh; 70957 Flat Red; 70988 Khaki; 70996 Gold. Vallejo Panzer Aces: 311 New Wood; 312 Leather Belt; 314 Canvas; 337 Highight Ger. (Black). Future Floor Polish, Solvaset Testor 2015 – Flat Clear Lacquer Finish Mig Productions Earth Wash (Enamel Wash) Easy Mud Item No. 21105 – European Earth AK Interactive AK 045 – Dark Brown Enamel Wash Pure Gum Turpentine, 2B Pencil, Trojan Graphite Powder Figure Paints: Flesh: Base Coat: Tamiya acrylic XF-15 Flat Flesh. Wash: Rowney Georgian Oil Paint 221 Burnt Sienna. Variations and Highlights: Vallejo Panzer Aces acrylics 341 Flesh Base; 342 Highlights Flesh; 343 Shadows Flesh (mixed). Uniforms: Base Coats: Vallejo Panzer Aces acrylic 318 US Army Tankcrew (darker colour); 321 Highlight British Tckr (mixed, for jackets). Helmets: Vallejo Panzer Aces acrylic 320 French Tankcrew Straps: Vallejo Panzer Aces acrylic 311 New Wood Wash: Mig Productions 502 Abteilung Abt.090 Industrial Earth oil paint Variations and Highlights: Base coats mixed together and with Vallejo Panzer Aces 322 Highlight US Tkcr. and Vallejo Model Colour 919 Foundation White. Borders and Additional Shading: Vallejo Panzer Aces 337 Highlight Ger. (Black). Goggle Lenses: Future Floor Polish References: Steve Zaloga, “M24 Chaffee Light Tank 1943-85”. Osprey Publishing. ISBN 9781841765402 Steve Zaloga, “Modeling US Armor of World War 2” Osprey Modelling Masterclass. ISBN: 9781846033988 ✓ Very high level of detail; superb moulding; excellent fit; individual track links; nice interior turret elements. ✗ Complex suspension; many small parts; some fiddly assemblies; unnecessary gun recoil; lots of clean-up required. Available from Bronco are distributed in the UK by Creative Models. www.creativemodels.co.uk
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STUH N O I T C E R R U S E R Tamiya 1:35 Sturmgeschutz III Ausf. G (Fruhe Version) â€¢ Kit No. AF 35157
s and repaints Michael Rinaldi update Stug III Ausf. G, the classic Tamiya 1:35 mhaubitze 42, previously built as a Sturlife. to give it a new lease on
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y modelling tends to take on all forms, whether it is building a state-of-the-art kit, or adding aftermarket items to a or classic kit, to simpler OOB projects built solely for the paintjob I get to perform. Every now and again an opportunity arises to take over a fellow modeller’s project and recreate the finish in my own vision. I have even sourced built work from eBay if I knew the base kit was accurate and then gave it a new paintjob. This might seem odd, but I find it a great way to jumpstart a project that I just want to enjoy for the sake of painting and weathering. This 1:35 Tamiya Stug III Ausf. G was just such a project, when a good mate of mine said “Here Mike, you take it and see what you can do with it!” Apparently he had had enough of it, and who am I to refuse such a cool model? So with model in hand, you can see it was already painted, and it had a metal barrel swap to make it a 10.5cm Sturmhaubitze 42 (Sd.Kfz 142/42) variant, the tracks were replaced with late model 40cm Friuls, plus the return rollers were the latestyle all-metal versions. Those of you Stug experts out there will know right away this is not entirely an accurate project at this point, so I made the decision to get the repaint started and not be overly concerned with the accuracy portion; although I’ll admit it right now, it did get the better of me later on, and I did alter some elements as seen in the final version. Perhaps I’m not as immune as I believe myself to be. One reason I wanted to write an article on this particular model was because often we come across situations where a repaint is justified or desired, or worse - a must. It does happen, and I’d guess rather often too if we are being honest about it. I certainly don’t find anything wrong with it, and it’s a good topic to discuss and present to further improve the base of knowledge with such tasks. The first important element to analyse is the quality of the current paintjob. Typically this will dictate
right away whether the model needs to be stripped of its paint, or if you can simply spray directly over the existing paintjob. In this case, it is the latter, and luckily my friend is good with his airbrush. The paint was smooth and tight, and I know it will be a good base to work from.
JUMPING RIGHT IN... Once I had decided to repaint and not strip the previous paint, I dove right in. The original 3-tone camouflage colours were quite strong and I wanted to go a different direction entirely. I had not painted an overall Dunkelgelb model in a while, and I wanted to take it a little further and add some very faint red-brown camouflage spots to the scheme as well - barely noticeable, a worthy airbrushing challenge in its own right. A common practice with my work is to paint in substantially lighter colours than you would guess and then work the tone up with the weathering to a shade closer to actual. What this does is avoid models that end up overly dark in hue, which is a common issue I feel we face with bottle colours specially colour matched to paint samples in 1:1. I am in the camp that believes lighter is better for scale effect, and Dunkelgelb in general had a fairly broad spectrum over it’s course of usage during the war. With that said, I used Lifecolor acrylics from Italy on this project and I did so because I love their sand and tan shades. I cleared the model of any extraneous items like the tracks and tow cables, and washed it thoroughly so there was no oil residue present from handling and such, dried it thoroughly, then simply sprayed away. I airbrushed on a mixture of UA107 Italian Light Sand Camouflage and UA099 Light Stone for the base colour. With LC paints from their UA series, I thin them approximately 60-40 thinner-to-paint and the thinner in this case is straight tap water. I’ve had great experience with them, and set my compressor to around 15-18psi and apply in thin coats to build up the opacity slowly. A
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Tamiya 1:35 Sturmgeschutz III Ausf. G (Fruhe Version) • Kit No. AF 35157
The original model as it arrived from the author’s friend for a new paintjob.
B NEW SKIRTS With the model repainted in its new basecoat, I decided to add some side skirts, and was inspired by a Tom Cockle article at the time on how to make styrene skirts using simple templates. It worked a treat and I made a few panels very easily from .010 sheet styrene with some brackets on the back and associated rivets on the outer face; definitely one of the easier scratch built mods to make for this vehicle. Next up was to spray on the Red Brown camouflage, and for this colour I used UA082 German Tank Brown, thinned it downed almost 70-30 and dropped my compressor psi to around 10psi and very, very carefully applied the subtle soft camouflage spots. I had studied some reference closely and I was challenging myself to keep it light and nearly invisible in some spots. I was after the softest of mottling I could manage and was quite happy with the end result. To spice the model up visually, I then repainted the newly made left rear side skirt panel in a slightly darker shade of Dunkelgelb, and then added a strong high-contrast green camouflage using UA002 Green on top of this taken straight from a great reference photo I had of this effect, which was
A new basecoat of Lifecolor acrylics was applied to create a lighter starting point for the Dunkelgelb.
clearly a repurposed panel from another StuG. After the respray was completed, I then added some new markings via Eduard vinyl spray masks German Numbers Small, and the German Crosses Late set. I love these, and use them as often as I can, wherever I can. Note that I don’t use pure black, but instead I choose a lighter shade of dark black-green colour that looks like faded black when sprayed on, again, going back to the lighter scale effect principles.
LET THE CHIPPING BEGIN... I imagine some of you are wondering, “Wait, where is the hairspray chipping layer?” If you are at all familiar with my recent work, you will know I indeed use that paint chipping process a lot, but here I decided on another technique that works well when incorporating the particulars of this sort of project. Because the underlying colours are so much darker than the new basecoat, I could use the old paint to my advantage for the colour of the chips themselves, and even defend myself by saying this StuH repainted at the depot level, which would be perfectly acceptable. So for the actual technique, I
Very faint red brown camouflage spots were added with more Lifecolor, heavily thinned and sprayed at a lower psi setting.
New side skirts were made from simple paper templates that were transferred to .015” styrene sheet, cut out, and the brackets added.
The third side-skirt was painted to look as if it was reclaimed from another StuG, and a stronger paint scheme was used to emphasis this element.
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use a process of paint removal by rubbing the outer layer of paint with some acrylic thinner and a small brush that is easy to control. I do this for all the paint chips, scratches, and various other paint wear effects. The trick with this form of chipping is to use a brush that is nearly 99% dry to the touch. Only some residual thinner can be on the brush, and it must be cleaned regularly and reset to the nearly-dry-to-thetouch feeling before moving along. Work in very small sections, use control and take your time, rub the paint until you see the underlying colour appear and then move along keeping the effects in-scale. It’s not a process that should be rushed by any means. If you aren’t familiar with this idea, then please practice plenty of times on a scrap model beforehand. It is hard to stress this part of the process enough. I too had to practice a lot before I achieved the results I was after, so please make it a habit to do so with any new technique, especially one that calls for thinner to be applied to the surface in this manner. From here, I then attended to the mounted details like the tools, the spare road wheels and taillight lens, which I hand painted in their appropriate colours. The basic repaint was now completed and I proceeded to weather the model
and continued with the normal processes that I typically employ. I started the weathering with a filter layer created from Humbrol 84 Mid-Stone, which is a nice colour to enrich the light base tones with. Not much is really required and I simply airbrushed it on in one single layer. The effect slightly darkens the Dunkelgelb already, so no more is needed.
ON AGAIN, OFF AGAIN... ON AGAIN And then a strange thing happened as is often the case, well not always, but it happened here -- the model sat for a few years in quiet isolation, stored away in the closet. In truth, I moved a few times and some of my personal projects like this one lost out to more important commission builds. Time passed, and I acquired a few items along the way that ended up actually serving me well for when I finally decided to complete it. Again, this is probably a similar story to some of your works, where you suddenly stop and then you go “Hey, I remember this one!”, and find new inspiration to finish it. In this case here I bought some magnificent WWII Productions resin Osketten tracks for the Pz. III/IV series, some of my favourite style of tracks. I couldn’t resist, and I’m glad I bought them when I did as WWII Production tracks are sadly no longer A
New markings were applied with Eduard’s spray masks and a very dark green/black paint color, which better represents scale black.
Chipping was done via drybrushing thinner on the high spots, which removed the out paint to create the marks.
The model repainted, details painted, new markings added, and the chipping completed. Time for some weathering...
June 2013 - Model Military International 27
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Tamiya 1:35 Sturmgeschutz III Ausf. G (Fruhe Version) â€˘ Kit No. AF 35157
A general filter was applied with heavily thinned Humbrol 84 Mid Stone enamel. The model was dressed up for a second time with a new RB Productions correct style barrel and Wespe muzzle brake, some extra fence posts as stowage, and new resin WWII Productions Ostketten tracks.
B available, even though Friulmodel
still make their wonderful set. I also acquired a beautiful RB Productions 10.5cm StuH turned metal barrel with brass muzzle break. I knew I had to use it, and carefully removed the original, which was technically incorrect anyway, glued the new one in and reset the mantlet to sit level, lowered the gun cradle, and added the new tracks. I then updated some other minor items. I re-sprayed one left hand road wheel with a red primer colour, and placed some additional spare tracks on the rear and as extra armour on the casemate. However, the wider tracks required that I widen the side skirt mounts to clear them, so I carefully removed the outer ledge, inserted a styrene spanner, glued it back together and carefully painted them to look like field applied mods in bare metal. I also painted the new barrel in the grey heat resistant primer they were manufactured in and often sent to the field to replace worn barrels.
TIME TO GET IT DIRTY Continuing along, I like to add a pin wash at this stage. I had some of the newer AK Interactive washes at hand and used their Track Wash colour for the main pin wash. If you are new to a pin wash, I use it instead of post-shading and prefer its precision and control, and really like how it enhances the moulded details of a kit. I always apply it with a fine tip #2 round brush
and carefully go over the model drawing the wash along all of the details. Note, I keep it tidy and any excess is quickly blended out, and I often add faint streaks and stains at this point too. The model begins to show some signs of use and life, and now I really go for the full effect and added quite a serious layer of pigments across all of the lower chassis areas, the road wheels,
the tops of the fenders, and the front and rear ends. To me, one of the main critical decisions to make with an armour project is the colour of the dirt, dust or mud you want to apply. Here I had a nice base of pale Dunkelgelb, and I did not want to go too dark with the earth tones; rather I decided to go paler and more grey for a more integrated and subtle effect that draws you in closer and then
Pigments are applied by placing the model on its side, adding the pigment mixtures dry, then setting them with a liquid fixer.
The pin wash step begins the weathering and here some AK Interactive Track Wash color is used along with a fine precision brush.
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Working with some asymmetrical weathering is a great way to add some unique characteristics to the model.
Using darker pigments on top of lighter pigments, followed by dark wash stains is an easy way to make them look fresher, or wetter.
The pigments are carefully worked up and over the fenders, note the tone balances with the yellow base colour and is worked into the various tools.
begins to really reveal itself to the viewer. Also, by going with a lighter earth colour, the stains and other wet effects are easier to pull off and become more attractive in the end. It is one of the more artistic elements to my work and one I work a long time with. I consider the pigment stages some of the most critical of any project, without question. My preferred method of application is to set the modelâ€™s surface horizontal, add the pigment mixture to the surface dry, then apply liquid fixer to set them in place. I prefer the resulting texture from this process, and once that step is done and the pigments are dry, I add all manner of stains and wet effects using various AK Interactive and MiG Production products and washes designed for this task. You notice as you look at the earthen effects, I had to keep some of the red wheel clear so you can still see the paint, and there is a lot of asymmetrical effects from both left to right, and front to rear. This is an excellent illustration of this effect and find it looks quite realistic to how vehicles travel dirt roads and cross-country. Often times only one side goes through a wet puddle, or patch of mud, and this shows up in many reference areas such as daily driving, construction equipment, even on rally cars.
FINAL WEATHERING From here, I decided the paintwork needed a little more enhancing - not much, but something to add more depth to the colours. I set about with my oils next in a process that I coined Oil Paint Rendering, which is when I make a small colour palette of oil paints on scrap cardboard, then carefully apply colour to each section of the painted surface and tint and bring out certain effect according to what is in that particular area. The cardboard acts as a sponge and soaks up the linseed oil from the paint making them very efficient and easy to work with. The oil paints also dry dead matte and allow for a broad variety of effects. The image of the completed hull side are typical results, the base tones are enriched further, the edges of the hatches show use, the rusted exposed areas brought out, enhanced stains, etc. -- basically all manner of these details are gone over with this OPR process. Next up were the tracks, and for this task I primed them with Mr. Surfacer 1200 to seal the resin properly, then airbrushed them in a medium grey-rust brown tone. From here I used small sponges and dabbed with a host of related colours, from earth tones to rust tones, to impart a distressed and worn look that replicates used battle tracks. I finished them off with some more Track Wash and then layered in some of the pigments I used earlier. I kept this last part relatively light so the A
Tracks are painted with a variety of Lifecolor paints, pigments and washes. Note the randomness to the colouring. This creates a more realistic and interesting result.
Oil paints are applied to render the surface effects across the upper painted areas. This brings out the paint tones, discolorations, fading, and stains and streaks present in the final model.
The results of the oil paint rendering process is observed along the hull top, compare this to earlier photos to see the subtle but effective colour shifts and increased wear and tear. This adds a lot to the final modelâ€™s story telling efforts.
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Tamiya 1:35 Sturmgeschutz III Ausf. G (Fruhe Version) • Kit No. AF 35157
B main tones of the tracks came
through to provide some contrast when mounted on the model. I paint the spare tracks in the same manner, and I also added some left over Churchill tracks the crew apparently slapped on as extra armour as well. But before I called this model complete, I added three more elements that flush it out as a finished project. The first was to add an extra side armour plate from a repurposed Panther side skirt, which was a left over from another project of mine, and then I added some wood boards from an old fence. AK Interactive’s new Chipping Fluid arrived at this time and since I had used the hairspray technique extensively by this time wanted to see how this product performs. I painted the wood strips in a grey tone, sprayed the Chipping Fluid layers, then sprayed some white paint and chipped it back. It worked just like the hairspray technique does with excellent results. Lastly, I added some heavily worn whitewash to the two side skirts originally from this vehicle, leaving the green and yellow camouflaged one alone. So there you have it, a simple repainted StuH. Well, simple... almost! ■
Some heavily worn winter camouflage was added to one, reinforce the presence of the Ostketten tracks, and to add a bit more colour to the model. The worn whitewash is applied with the new AK Interactive Chipping Fluid in the same manner as the Hairspray technique.
The wood fence posts used for the extra stowage (to help when stuck in the mud), are painted and chipped in the same way as the side skirts. The final model, and note how the worn and scratched side skirt is rusted on it’s lower edge, likely from previous heavy moisture build-up during the winter.
This view shows the squat shape and broad tracks to good effect. Note the two different marking style utilized here, a subtle touch seen in combat photos on occasion.
Modelspec Tamiya 1:35 Sturmgeschutz III Ausf. G (Fruhe Version) Kit No. AF 35157 Accessories Used: WWII Productions resin tracks: Panzer III/IV “Ostketten” RB Productions 10.5cm Sturmhaubitze metal barrel (Wespe muzzle) RB35B43 Eduard German Medium Number and Late Crosses vinyl paint masks .015” plastic sheet for scratch built side skirts
This overhead view illustrates the added tarp on the mantlet area, and the extra Panther side skirt added to the left side of the superstructure. The various details applied to this model point to a very late-war StuH that has seen some action, likely on the Eastern Front. The opportunistic crew were quick to scavenge as much extra armour to keep themselves safe and protected.
Paints and Finishing Products: Lifecolor Acrylics: UA107 Italian Sand Light Stone; UA099 Light Stone; UA082 German Tank Brown; UA002 Green Tamiya Acrylics: XF-2 Flat White Vallejo: Airbrush Cleaner (chipping), RLM 70 Schwarzgruen (markings) Humbrol Enamels: 84 Mid Stone (filter) AK Interactive: 083 Track Wash & Worn Effects Acrylic Fluid MIG Productions pigments: various earth tones ✓ Excellent base kit; easy to assemble and modify; the perfect base for weathering and extra detailing. ✗ A bit dated on detail, but none worth mentioning beyond that. Available from Tamiya kits are distributed in the UK by The Hobby Company Limited www.hobbyco.net
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EDUARD PE-SETS 17036 Chain bar railings 1/700....................................... £15.50 32326 Westland Lynx Mk.88 sonar ext 1/32............Rev £15.50 32759 Westland Lynx Mk.88 sonar int S.A. 1/32.....Rev £17.50 32762 Westland Lynx Mk.88 sonar seatbelts 1/32.. Rev £15.50 36233 Churchill Mk.VI 1/35......................................AFV £13.50 36245 Pz.IV Ausf.H 1/35.............................................Ita £15.50 36249 BTR-50PK APC 1/35.......................................Tru £16.50 48754 Wessex HU.5 ext 1/48.....................................Ita £12.75 49622 Wessex HU.5 int S.A. 1/48..............................Ita £17.50 53081 Bismarck part 2 - front area 1/200.....................Tru TBA 53083 Bismarck part 4 - central area 1/200.................Tru TBA 53084 Bismarck part 5 - rear area 1/200......................Tru TBA 53085 Bismarck part 6 - catapult 1/200...................Tru £19.50 53088 Kriegsmarine deck crew WWII 1/200............Tru £16.50 ZOOMS 33116 Westland Lynx Mk.88 sonar int S.A. 1/32.....Rev £12.75 FE622 Wessex HU.5 int S.A. 1/48..............................Ita £10.50 BIG-ED SETS BIG7280 PLANTS II. Tropic and Subtropic.......................... £29.00 EDUARD MAY RELEASES PE-SETS 17033 USS Wasp LHD-1 1/700.......................Hob Boss £24.00 32328 Lynx Mk.88 exterior 1/32...............................Rev £19.50 32761 Lynx Mk.88 interior S.A. 1/32........................Rev £19.50 32763 Lynx Mk.88 seatbelts 1/32............................Rev £17.50 36252 Merkava Mk.IV LIC 1/35................................Aca £17.50 36258 Merkava Mk.IV LIC armour shields 1/35......Aca £17.50 53086 Bismarck part 7 - AA guns 1/200...................Tru £24.00 53087 Kriegsmarine officers WWII S.A. 1/200............... £18.50 53090 Bismarck part 8 - structural railings 1/200...Tru £18.50 ZOOMS 33118 Lynx Mk.88 int 1/32...................................Revell £14.50 BIG-ED SETS BIG5315 TONE 1/350................................................... Tam £41.00 BIG4985 LYNX HMA.8 1/48............................................Air £36.75
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AFV CLUB AF35227 AEC Dorchester..................................................... £49.99 AF35189 40mm Bofors Ammo............................................. £13.99 AF35109 M-109A2 Howitzer................................................ £42.99 AF35144 T-34/76 factory 183.............................................. £39.99 AF35163 Bofors 40mm M1 (US)............................................ 29.99 AF35263 SdKfz 263 Pzfunkwagen......................................... 42.99 AF35566 M-42A1 Duster...................................................... £49.99 SE73514 I-27 Jap Midget Sub............................................. £26.99 RODEN UR724 Opel Blitzbus (1937)............................................. £12.99 ZVESDA KIT RELEASES 2013 MILITARY 1/35 Z3577 BMD-2 (re-release)............................................... £18.50 Z3620 Panzer IV Ausf.H................................................... £28.99 Z3625 Sd.Kfz.251/1 Ausf.B “Stuka zu Fuss”................... £21.50 Z3636 BMPT “Terminator”............................................... £28.99 Z3645 Soviet Infantry Berlin 1945..................................... £7.25 Z3646 Tiger I Early (Kursk).............................................. £28.99 Z3678 Panther Ausf.D...................................................... £28.99 MILITARY 1/72 Z5003 Ballistic Missile Launcher “Topol”..........................£TBA Z5011 IS-2 Stalin................................................................ £9.75 Z5020 T-90.......................................................................... £9.75 Z5023 King Tiger................................................................ £9.75 Z5026 Self Propelled Gun ISU-152.................................... £9.75 MILITARY SMALL SETS Z6147 Soviet 120-mm Mortar with Crew 1/72................. £2.99 Z6152 Soviet Medical Personnel 1941-42 1/72............... £2.99 Z6170 British Bofors 40mm Mk-2 AA-Gun 1/72............... £7.50 Z6180 German Elite Troops 1939-43 1/72........................ £2.99 Z6181 Soviet Militia 1941 1/72......................................... £2.99 Z6182 German Anti Tank Team 1939-43 1/72.................. £2.99 Z6193 Soviet Snipers 1/72................................................ £2.99 Z6194 German Snipers 1/72.............................................. £2.99 Z6197 Soviet Infantry (Winter Uniform) 1/72................... £2.99 Z6198 German Infantry (Winter Uniform) 1/72................ £2.99 Z6199 Soviet Skiers 1/72................................................... £2.99 Z6202 Soviet Tank KV-2 1/100.......................................... £2.99
Z6203 Soviet Tank T-35 1/100........................................... £2.99 Z6208 Soviet 82-mm Mortar w/Crew (Winter Unif.) 1/72.£2.99 Z6209 Ger. 80-mm Mortar w/Crew (Winter Unif.) 1/72.... £2.99 Z6210 Ger. Machine-gun w/Crew (Winter Uniform) 1/72.£2.99 Z6217 British Howitzer (25-pound) 1/72........................... £2.99 Z6219 British Engineers 1/72............................................ £2.99 Z6220 Soviet Mg w/Crew (Winter Uniform) 1/72............. £2.99 Z6226 British Recon Team 1/72........................................ £2.99 Z6227 British Tank Crusader IV 1/100.............................. £2.99 Z6228 British Medic Team 1/72......................................... £2.99 Z6229 British Armored Car Daimler Mk-1 1/100.............. £2.99 JAPANESE HISTORIC MINIATURES 1/72 Z6404 Samurai-archers..................................................... £2.99 Z6406 Nindja...................................................................... £2.99 Z6408 Monks-archers........................................................ £2.99 Z6409 Monks with yari and naginata................................ £2.99 Z6415 Peasants w/Ammo Supply...................................... £2.99 Z6416 Mounted Samurai Archers...................................... £2.99 Z6421 Samurai with yari.................................................... £2.99 Z6422 Yari ashigaru in raincoats....................................... £2.99 Z6423 Monks with arquebus.............................................. £2.99 Z6424 Monks with shrine carrriage................................... £2.99 SMALL SHIPS Z6500 English ship Revenge...............................................£TBA Z6501 English ship Great Harry..........................................£TBA Z6502 Spanish ship San Martin.........................................£TBA Z6503 Spanish ship San Francisco....................................£TBA HISTORIC MINIATURES 1/72 - GENERAL Z6801 Russian Shooters Napoleonic................................ £2.99 Z6802 French Line Infantry ............................................... £2.99 Z6803 Russian Cossacks Napoleonic................................ £2.99 Z6804 Roman Artillery “Onager” w/Crew......................... £2.99 WARGAMES Z6215 Battle for Moscow (AoT) WWII................................£TBA Z6222 Tank Battle (AoT) WWII............................................£TBA Z6225 Airfields (AoT)..........................................................£TBA Z6420 Samurai Battles, Ninja (AoT + C&C)......................£TBA Z6505 Ships (AoT)...............................................................£TBA 7410 Hot War....................................................................£TBA
MINI KITS MODERN Z7400 T-72 1/100................................................................£TBA Z7401 BTR-80 1/100...........................................................£TBA Z7403 Mil-24 VP 1/144.......................................................£TBA Z7404 Soviet Infantry 1/72.................................................£TBA Z7405 Abrams M1 A1 1/100...............................................£TBA Z7406 Bradley 1/100...........................................................£TBA Z7407 American Infantry 1/72............................................£TBA Z7408 Apache Helicopter 1/144.........................................£TBA Z7411 Soviet Machine gun “Utes” 1/72............................£TBA Z7412 Soviet PZRK “Igla” 9K38 1/72................................£TBA Z7413 Soviet PTRK “Metis” 1/72.......................................£TBA Z7414 American Machine gun “Browning” 1/72...............£TBA Z7415 American “Dragon” 1/72.........................................£TBA Z7416 American PZRK “Stinger” 1/72...............................£TBA HISTORIC MINIATURES 1/72 Z8078 German Infantry WWII............................................ £7.99 SHIPS Z9036 Titanic 1/700............................................................£TBA Z9037 Black Pearl 1/72.................................................... £99.99 Z9043 German Destroyer Z-17 Diether v.Roeder 1/350.£26.50 Z9017 Russian Battlecruiser Pyotr Veliky [z9051] 1/700.£22.99 Z9052 Battleship Marat 1/350......................................... £57.50 Z9054 Russian Destroyer Sovremenny 1/700................ £15.99 NEW BOOKS Panzerwrecks No 15............................ £17.00 Stug III on the battlefield..................... £23.00
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Marcuzzi - Model Victoria
AN INTERVIEW WITH
PAOLO MARCUZZI Luke Pitt spends some time with master modeller Paolo Marcuzzi, the man behind Model Victoria, discussing the process of creating a kit and the industry in general.
aolo Marcuzzi is a master modeller whom I admire greatly. He is the owner and creative force behind the Italian brand of Model Victoria. The level of detail that his kits offer is quite simply breathtaking. He is 44 years old, married to Alexandra and they have two sons, Francesco and Michelangelo. His attention to detail is legendary, and his kits offer the complete package from figures to photo etch to complete kits all exhibit that certain something that sets them apart from the rest. It was a pleasure to have a chance to interview him this month.
Hi Paolo. Good to have you with us this month. Can you give our readers some insight of how Model Victoria started and what was your motivation for doing so.
Hi Luke. It is a pleasure to be guest in this magazine. Model Victoria was a company born out of crisis. My wife and I found ourselves out of work some years ago, so I decided to try to transform my hobby into a profession. From the outset, my aim was quality. I wanted kits and updates of Italian subjects that had not been done before. I must say in the beginning the learning curve was steep as I had to master a lot of different skill sets in what seemed a very short time frame. It was difficult, as you can imagine, but with my wife’s support we overcame most of the problems and we now take a great deal of pride in our finished product.
Creating a master for casting and giving the customer a product that is easy to assemble is an extremely complicated process. The work starts with the fabrication of the various sub sets of the vehicle. For example, the engine, gearbox and transmission assemblies have to be made in such a way that they are both easy to assemble and also easily cast. The hull, wheels and armament come next. This is where the process is tricky as the entire sub assemblies must fit one another and also be accurate while allowing for slight “shrinkage” in the resin material. Finally the equipment and accessories are completed.
I note that you exclusively make Italian subjects in 1:35 scale. Do you have any plans do other subjects or other scales?
I’m comfortable in 1:35 scale and at this stage have no plans for any other scales. We started to produce Italian subjects for two reasons. The first was we felt there was a market for Italian subjects. Besides, I’m a proud Italian and have access to a vast array of reference material on these
I have always admired your casting. Can you explain your process? I imagine making a master for casting is entirely different that making a master for yourself.
The house and workshop.
Paolo at work.
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very subjects. In terms of subjects I have an unquestionable fascination with models, soldiers and their history. Luke:
The posing of your figures is very impressive. Can you tell us the process involved in making your figure masters?
To be honest with you my figures always give me my greatest satisfactions I can express all my Italianism. Sometimes photos or videos inspire me, but often I try to imagine myself in a defined situation. To this end, I try to pose in front of a mirror, wearing similar clothes that I wish to portray My wife then takes photos of me, which helps in my anatomical reproductions as well as the drapery of the cloth
Interesting! On a different subject. Do you have any surprises for us in the future? What do you plan on doing after the Fiat 1100?
The Fiat 1100 is nothing more than the first of a series of vehicles based on the same chassis. In fact I’m developing the pick-up version of the same “Berlina”. After this, I will produce the “Balilla” version, released by Fiat in 1936, (two years before the 1100) and characterised with a more sloping grill. This will also include a pick-up variation. We also have plans for a complete M 13/40 tank with interior and a figure much like the CV33 we recently released.
I have always been impressed with the accuracy of your product. I would imagine a great deal of research takes place before each master is made. Can you tell the readers a little of what makes up this process and the steps involved?
The creation of a model kit involves a great deal of research that includes official photos of the vehicle, private archival photos and documentation that explains in detail their possible versions, uses, and dates of service. Lastly, I take into account where and who used the vehicle being made. For example, there was a huge cultural difference between the German SS and the Italian Polizei departments when deploying vehicle types in say anti-partisan duties. These differences can be noticed in their vehicle type and configuration Once the data is collected I assemble the
model that I have made, like the engine, moving parts, etc .and then I try the correct the assembly. I can see the complete model only after the casting and assembly so; I need to be as accurate as possible in the creation of the various components. Luke:
Can you give us your thoughts on the hobby in general, where you think it may be heading and what sort of future you believe it has?
With the entry of the Chinese companies that develop kits with astonishing speed, the hobby is indeed in great shape. I suspect, however, that with rising costs and with lessening amounts of disposable income we may well see a contraction in the very near future I believe we will see a turning back if you will, to a more human rhythm in terms of production and new releases. In the meantime, customers will require higher quality that doesn’t necessarily come in a beautiful package. I’m a firm believer that realism in a model does not come in a banal plastic object but rather it must “breathe” history and realism that in my view can only come from the creator and indeed the builder.
I have often heard that your models are “too good” and that some modellers are fearful of putting your models together in fear of not doing the kit justice. How do you react to that comment?
If some customers believe that my models are much too intricate, this only fills me with pride and makes me aware I have made something that expresses realism. I can only urge modellers to try to build them, as that’s what they intended for. In any case, I urge modellers to visit my website to view my range and easy guide sections the web site is www.modelvictoria.it . Model Victoria guarantees its pieces so if for any reason a modeller misses some pieces of the kit or indeed it has been damaged, we will do our best to replace it.
Thank you for your time Paolo, I am in awe of your ability to make master patterns, your attention to detail is inspiring
Thanks to you and to your readers.
Paolo is striking a pose for Model Victoria’s 1:35 scale Italian “Tank Mechanic Wearing Overall”, Item No. 40101.
Model Victoria products are available from their website www.modelvictoria.it
June 2013 - Model Military International 33
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Airfix 1:48 Supacat Jackal â€¢ Kit No. A05301
Steve Zaloga upgrades the new Airfix 1:48 scale Supacat Jackal, and offers some useful reference too.
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ome years ago while on an overseas business trip, I was watching BBC International on the television. A story appeared about British Special Forces units in Afghanistan with strange new trucks: the Jackal and Coyote. At the time, I thought, "Those would make neat models!â€? although I never expected to see them in kit form. In the event, Accurate Armour released them in 1:35 in resin. In 2012, Airfix released them in plastic in 1:48, and so I decided to take a crack at those. I am not especially keen on modern AFVs in 1:35, especially the open vehicles, as they are so complicated and so full of fiddly little bits. I am just not patient enough for all the small fittings that need attention. On the other hand, a 1:48 scale kit is small enough that a lot of the smallest fittings can simply be ignored. Airfix has released a kit of both the Supacat Jackal 4x4 and the longer Coyote 6x6, but I settled on doing the Jackal, which is the more common of the two types.
STARTING THE KIT
Last summer, I attended the Eurosatory arms exhibition outside Paris for my firm, and Supacat happened to have a Coyote on display. By that stage, Airfix had announced their kit, so I decided to take some pictures of the vehicle for future modelling reference. They are reproduced following the model section of my article. This was a stripped down vehicle without all the combat gear. For modellers wishing a better view of a combat loaded vehicle, I would strongly recommend getting a copy of the Tankograd softcover by Carl Schulze "Jackal-Coyote High Mobility Weapons Platform". With my references in hand, I started the kit. My first impression on inspecting on kit was the remarkable change in Airfix kits since the old days of 1:76 AFV models. I was an avid Airfix builder back in the 1960s and 1970s with their Braille scale kits, but they are a bit elementary by today's standards. Their new 1:48 scale line is very up to date in terms of sharp moulding. On quick inspection, I noticed a few issues. The kit tyres are very simple and unattractive since it is impossible to mould complex tread patterns with conventional moulds. Oliver St.Lot of QuaterKit in France (www.quarter-kit. com) has come to the rescue with a lovely set of new resin wheels
that deal with this problem. The other issue with the kit is the bare state of the vehicle. It comes with no ammo boxes or other stowage, not even jerry cans. It does have a very simplified GPMG light machine gun and .50 cal heavy machine, but none of the crew's personal weapons. To help stock up the model, I also bought a set of new British infantry figures from Airfix. These are a small version of their old "multi-pose" series, so the small arms and rucksacks are separate. This is an excellent source of supply for the crew small arms, and the rucksacks can be used to help clutter up the vehicle. I also used Tamiya's 1:48 scale jerry can set that has a set of British jerry cans. These are the standard metal type, not the current plastic type. However, both styles are used. The Jackal is fitted with harnesses on either side for carrying rucksacks and other gear. The kit depicts these moulded flat to the outer body. I cut these away from both sides, as I intended to replace them with more threedimensional versions.
DETAIL WORK: THE WEAPONS I decided to do a lot of little detail work on the model. The kit can be made into a very attractive model straight out of the box, but I wanted a higher level of detail. The vehicle weapons are a focal point of any model, so I paid special attention to the main vehicle weapons. The kit's L7A2 GPMG (part 23C) is very simple. I rebuilt this by reconstructing the barrel and bipod, as well as the receiver cover and small detail. The Istec swing arm (part 22C) is okay, but the ammo box and two trays are very simplified. I rebuilt the Istec Soft-Mount Assembly (part 26C), and raided my stash of 1:72 scale photo-etch to find some small ammo boxes that would work for 7.62mm boxes. The kit's .50 cal L111A1 heavy machine gun is very simplified, especially the mount. Gasoline offers an upgraded version in their Jackal accessories set which also includes a superb RB brass barrel. Another option in the Gasoline set is an excellent Mk. 19 40mm grenade launcher, which is used in place of the .50 cal heavy machine gun on some Jackals. In the end, I decided to bite the bullet and rebuild the .50 cal machine gun. I used a Tamiya .50 cal heavy machine gun from the stash as the basic core of the gun, and the RB brass barrel. Some
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Airfix 1:48 Supacat Jackal • Kit No. A05301
The GPMG on the front of the vehicle will inevitably be a focus of attention, so I spent an evening’s work rebuilding the kit parts to show the weapon’s complexity.
The mount for the .50 cal heavy machine gun is considerably more complex than the single piece kit part. This is a view of the rebuilt part from the left.
The stowage bin on the right side of the driving compartment is intended for stowing 7.62mm ammo boxes for the GPMG. I rebuilt the kit part and scratch-built some ammo boxes.
B of the small detail comes from
various 1:48 detail sets for the .50 cal, including some Hauler sets intended for Sherman tanks. Most of the material is simply sheet plastic and plastic rod. This single assembly probably took about 8 hours of work. I probably spent as much time trying to figure out the various shapes as I did actually building the assembly!
Another view of the detail work on the machine gun from the other side. I used some photo-etch bits from various Sherman tank upgrade sets.
The right side access door for the centre compartment has a large bin fitted to the inside. The kit part is simplified, so I rebuilt it along with the .50 cal ammo boxes.
The Jackal stows weapons for the crew, often consisting of 5.56mm L85A2 TES assault rifles and L86A2 Light Support Weapons in racks on the two front doors and two more racks in the rear compartment. I added the racks from sheet plastic, and the weapons came from the Airfix figure set. The kit provides the usual smoke mortars, though
One of the more challenging tasks was replacing the various screen opening in the engine compartment. This required thinning out the opening on the back side so that the photo-etch grill would rest nearly flush with the surface.
the mounts are a bit simplified. I decided to add some visual variety to the mounts by replacing the forward smoke mortar tubes with thin brass tubes without the black plastic dust covers in place. The Jackal has stowage racks for .50 cal or 40mm ammo boxes on the floor of the rear compartment, but none are provided in the kit. I made up a bunch from plastic stock.
This detail view shows the new PE grills in place.
The smoke mortar tubes in front were replace with brass rod to depict The side running boards had the moulded screens cut away, and devices that had been discharged and to offer a little visual variety. then the frame was cut open with a fine razor saw to permit the insertion of a piece of aluminium screening.
The driver’s station can use some attention in terms of the brake pedals and other controls.
Detail Work: Screen AREAS The most challenging aspect of this project was to replace the various screened areas on the kit. There are four engine air intake ports on parts 8A, 12A and 20A. Aside from cutting out the plastic screens, it is also desirable to thin out the area behind so that the new screens sit nearly flush with the exterior surface of the vehicle. I did this
A view of the driver’s compartment showing the front grill in place.
The radio assembly on the rear right corner was re-built, and fittings were added to the front doors for assault rifle stowage. The rifles come from the Airfix figure set.
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by using a motor tool and a sharp circular burr. The screening came from an old set of Trimaster photoetched screen, but other brands of fine mesh would work. The other challenge was the running boards (parts 17B), which on the real vehicle have a section of hex-pattern open steel grid so that the crew doesn't track too much dirt into the vehicle. I cut out the plastic grid work from the parts, and then used a fine razor saw to cut open the remaining round frame sections. I then cut a piece of aluminium mesh, glued it in place using cyranoacrylate glue and filled in the gaps around the outer part of the frame with putty. It is not necessary to cut the frame in two, only to cut it open enough to sandwich the aluminium mesh inside.
Detail Work: Front Compartment The driver's compartment involved a variety of detail work. I replaced the various kit driver’s pedals with new items. The rack on the left side for the GPMG ammo boxes (part 27A) is a bit thick so I rebuilt it, along with a set of 7.62mm ammo boxes. The ammo rack on the left side (part 18A) is fine, but I decided to replace the actual rack with a sheet plastic version mainly to make it easier to paint. I replaced the pipe frames on the back of the front assembly (part 11A) which are shown as half-round. I also added a fire extinguisher. The front detail that attaches to Part 11A can use a lot of small detail improvements. I chopped off the rear view mirrors and the foot steps and replaced them with thinner versions made from brass rod. The bumper frames (parts 22B, 23B) are a bit chunky and I replaced the attachment frame towards the inside with sheet plastic. I thinned out the detail on the winch assembly (part 4A).
Detail Work: Centre Compartment The centre fighting compartment demanded a great deal of attention. The kit lacks the radio rack that sits immediately behind the front seats. I scratch built this out of sheet plastic, and made the various radio bits from items from the spares bin. I replaced the two spare barrels on the ring mount assembly (part 9C) over the fighting compartment. I also made a 40mm grenade ammo box for the mount, which seems like common practice in the field in Afghanistan even when the .50 cal heavy machine gun is used since it offers more miscellaneous stowage space.
The box of the vehicle had a lot of little detail changes made around the winch and the protective bumpers.
The wheel wells have some black rubber splash strips around the edge and these were depicted with strips of sheet plastic. This also shows the rebuilding of the radio antenna post on the rear, and the new attachment for the door arm.
This view shows some of the changes made in the driver’s compartment.
The stowage frames on the rear corners were thinned. A 40mm grenade bin was added to the turret race. The frame assembly in the upper left is the radio rack which fits behind the driver seat.
Modellers may be discouraged from starting “ this kit after seeing by the amount of work I did
on this model, but I have seen several of these kits built up straight out-of-the-box and they make up into splendid little models even without all the extra work...
Like most hard plastic figures, the Airfix 1:48 figures can use some detail work such as undercutting ammo pouches and sharpening detail. I also put the figure’s head on a neck made from plastic rod to make it easier to rotate the head on the torso.
I rebuilt the stowage bin (part 28A) on the right side door. I intended to leave this door open to show the detail inside the centre compartment, so it would be quite visible on the finished model. I rebuilt the .50 cal ammo boxes that fit inside the bin. The door arm assemblies (parts 16C, 17C) can use some small attachment details.
Detail Work: Rear compartment The most prominent details in the rear are the two folding stowage racks (part 6A) that are designed to hold jerry cans. I cut these apart
in order to thin them using sanding sticks, and then rebuilt them with thinner frames on the insides. The heat exchanger fins on the radio box (part 33) on the rear are not very prominent, so I enhanced the detail by carefully sawing between the fins using a fine razor saw, and then added some side fins using .010 thou plastic stock. The antenna mounts on the roof (part 25A) vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the precise fit of radios and IED jammers, so I based my model on photos in the Tankograd book.
A view of the figure after painting but before applying a flat coat.
Detail Work: Airfix Figure I wanted to include one of the Airfix figures with the model to give the vehicle a sense of scale. The new Airfix set is quite nice, with separate packs, arms, and weapons. The fit of the arms to the weapon and torso are a bit dodgy though, so I would strongly recommend assembling these various bits before trying to paint the figure. I found that there were big gaps between the arms and the torso in order to get the weapon to fit properly, and I filled in the gaps using a wedge cut from the A
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Airfix 1:48 Supacat Jackal • Kit No. A05301
The kit can be made into a “ very attractive model straight out of the box, but I wanted a higher level of detail...
The finished model prior to painting but with many small fittings left off to make it easier to paint.
B sprue runners which I trimmed
off after it dried. I mounted the head on a neck made from plastic rod, and drilled out the torso to accept it. This permits the head to be adjusted for a better fit off the centreline, giving the figure a more life-like appearance.
FINISHING THE MODEL Jackals are painted in a desert yellow colour. I am unfamiliar with the specific British designation for the colour, but having seen some of the vehicles first-hand, the colour is quite vivid when fresh. The colour photos here from Eurosatory should be viewed with some care regarding the colour, as the lighting in the hall was an
odd assortment of fluorescent and sodium lamps that give off an odd colour cast. In any event, I thought it best to mix my own colour. I mainly used Tamiya white and yellow, though I tossed in a little orange to warm up the colour. I find that a yellow shade without a bit of orange or red tends to have a slightly off green colour. Sorry not to offer a precise mix, but it was all done by Mark 1 eyeball. Painting the model takes some planning since many areas will not be visible once assembled. The accompanying photos show how many of the small fittings were left off so that they could be painted separately. Aside from the main parts which are in desert sand or
black, there are numerous bits in a dark olive green. The cloth parts of the vehicle are in a pale khaki-grey which I mixed from Tamiya Wooden deck tan, white, and a little grey to reduce the colour saturation. Most of the black bits on the model were not painted in straight black, but in a "half-black" mixed from about half Tamiya black and half Tamiya red or brown. Once the main colours were in place, I applied my usual weathering glaze by brush consisting of Holbein sepia oil paint in a medium of Winsor & Newton Liquin Fine Detail with mineral spirits (white spirits) as the solvent. Once that was dry, I flattened the finishing by
airbrushing the model with Testor's Dullcoat, and then did some drybrushing to pop out details. The model took a while to fit out with all the various weapons and kit. The vehicles in service seem to use some form of black netting on the rear to keep all the gear from flying about. I reproduced that using some Aber photo-etch netting which I painted black. For the webbing harness on the vehicle side, I used rucksacks from the Airfix figure set. The netting was made from straps cut from a brown paper bag, glued into a lattice work using carpenter's glue. The seat belts were made from some thin black plastic wrap. A
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Amongst the additions on the rear of the vehicle were a new tow shackle from the spares bin, revised smoke mortar mounts, and a more extensive antenna array on the roof.
The roll bar on the front of the vehicle was detailed with many small fittings.
A view of the left side showing the new grill work as well as the spare machine gun barrels on the ring mount.
The stowage bin on the right side door is prominent on the finished model as are the running boards.
The foot loops on the front corners were re-built using brass rod. This also provides a good view of the Gasoline resin wheels.
The stowage bin for the GPMG machine gun ammo boxes was added over the left side wheel well. 30-43 not used.
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Airfix 1:48 Supacat Jackal â€˘ Kit No. A05301
Extra t Airfixâ€™s
A. A view of the rear of the finished model showing the extensive stowage added including jerry cans in the racks and various bits of resin bed rolls and stowage in the truck bed.
A view of the left front side. Many of the stowage items such as the grenade box have NATO-standard industrial warning markings for explosive (orange) and fuel (red) made from decal sheet.
B. Although the .50 cal heavy machine gun took a lot of detail work, it pays off on the finished mode since it is so prominent. C. The driver's compartment is made more interesting by all the little stowage bits including the assault rifle on the door and the web harnesses for rucksacks on the side. D. A detail view of the left front corner of the Jackal showing the GPMG as well as the various straps added to the front.
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B CONCLUSION This kit was a lot of fun. I enjoy doing detail work, and the Airfix kit was an ideal palette for a superdetailing project. Modellers may be discouraged from starting this kit after seeing by the amount of work I did on this model, but I have seen several of these kits built up straight out-of-the-box and they make up into splendid little models even without all the extra work. ■
Extra time spent on detailing Airfix’s Jackal is well worthwhile.
Modelspec Airfix 1:48 Supacat Jackal. Kit No. A05301 Accessories Used
The additional stowage certainly makes an impression!
Airfix 1:48 British Forces Infantry Patrol (8 multi-part figures) A03701 Gasoline Wheels for Airfix Jackal (GAS48110A) Gasoline Update Set for Jackal/Coyote (GAS48112K) Tamiya Jerry Can Set 1:48 (MMV No. 10) Aber Photo-etch Net/Siatka S03 Alliance Modelworks TW006 1.2mm brass tubes Paint Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black, XF-2 White, XF-3 Yellow, XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan Reference Carl Schulze, “Jackal-Coyote High Mobility Weapons Platform” (Tankograd Publishing 2012) ✓ Fun build and an ideal palette for a superdetailing project; crisp surface detail. ✗ Poorly rendered tyres; some simplification of detail areas. Available from Airfix kits are available from hobby shops worldwide and online from www.airfix.com
The finished model on a simple base.
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Airfix 1:48 Supacat Jackal â€˘ Kit No. A05301
JACKAL PHOTO REFERENCE
Supacat displayed one of their Jackal 2A vehicles at the June 2012 Eurosatory exhibition outside Paris.
he Supacat Jackal was selected by the British Army to satisfy an urgent operation requirement for a fire support and patrol vehicle for use in Afghanistan to supplement the Land Rover 110 Defender WMIK (Weapons Mount Installation Kits). Over 200 of the initial Jackal 1 High Mobility Weapons Platforms were delivered by 2009. After field use in Afghanistan, the improved Jackal 2 was developed with better ballistic protection and improved hull protection against mines. These were ordered in 2009 along with the Coyote, a lengthened 6x6 version of the vehicle for logistical support of the patrol vehicles. The success of the Jackal in Afghanistan led to further purchases = and in 2010, the Jackal 2A was ordered which had further improvements in ballistic protection and mine resistance, as well as the use of a steel rather than aluminium cab. The Airfix kit represents the Jackal 2A as procured since 2010. â–
This front view shows the length of PSP fitted on the vehicle bow. Notice that the winch uses some brightly coloured commercial rope.
The right front corner of the Jackal shows how the foot loops fold upward when not in use.
Another view of the left front corner showing the web harnesses behind the door that are used for stowage. The centre door is open, showing the spare tyre in its canvas cover.
A view of the right side with the door closed showing the two sets of external harnesses.
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A rear view of the Jackal showing the coloured rear lights and smoke mortars.
The rear lights have a small protective canvas cover fitted above them that can be used to cover the lights when not in use to prevent road damage.
A detail view inside the driverâ€™s compartment.
A detail view of the area in front of the left seat showing the stowage rack for GPMG ammo boxes.
A view into the driving compartment showing the shock-cushioned seats.
A view from the driverâ€™s side of the front seats.
A view of the seats showing the seat belts in greater detail as well as the console between the seats.
A view into the centre compartment from the left side door.
A view into the side compartment from the left looking up at the machine gun station.
A view into the centre compartment from the rear showing the radio rack behind the driverâ€™s seat.
A close-up view of the machine gun station from below.
A view of the seats in the centre compartment as well as the fittings for locking the door.
The right side door for the centre compartment has a large bin on the inside, with racks at the bottom for .50 cal ammo boxes.
A view from the right side into the centre compartment showing the detail over the engine compartment.
A view into the rear bed of the vehicle.
A detail view of the rear smoke mortars and the radio bulkhead.
A detail view of the running boards. Note the black anti-slip material on the edge.
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Meng 1:35 French 155mm Self-Propelled Howitzer AUF1 Markings are supplied for at least three vehicles, but only one is mentioned in the instructions.
Meng expands their AMX family with a 1:35 scale 155mm SelfPropelled Howitzer AUF1. The Editor takes a look.
The upper hull is an impressive piece of moulding.
The textured turret floor.
MY, WHAT A BIG TURRET YOU HAVE!
lthough the French Mk. 3 155mm would remain in production through the 1980s, by the early 1970s the French Army realised there was an urgent need for a replacement. The Mk. 3 155mm lacked an automatic loading system, but more importantly it lacked nuclear-biological-chemical (NBC) protection for its crew, and could carry only two of the four crew members needed to operate it (the remaining two having to be transported in support vehicles). Development of the GCT 155mm began in the early 1970s, and the first production version, known as the AUF1, was introduced in 1977. About 400 have been produced, with 70 having been upgraded to the AUF2 variant. The GCT 155mm AUF1 is based on the AMX-30 main battle tank (MBT) chassis and is equipped with a 155mm 39-caliber gun with an auto-loading system, giving a rate of fire of 8 rounds per minute, and a sustained rate of fire of 6 rounds per minute. It is also equipped with a roof-mounted 12.7mm anti-aircraft gun. The AUF1 has an effective range of 23,500 metres firing conventional rounds and 28,000 metres using Rocket Assisted Projectiles (RAPs). The first production AUF1s were delivered exclusively to the Saudi Arabian Army, while the French Army received their first deliveries in 1980, deploying the
GTC 155mm AUF1 in regiments of 18 guns each. In addition, the Iraqi Army received a small number of GTC 155mm AUF1 variants in 1980, which they employed during the Iran–Iraq War. A battery of 8 AUF1s from the French Army’s 40em Regiment d’Artillerie was deployed in support of the Rapid Reaction Force on Mount Igman during the 1995 NATO bombing campaign in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The battery provided rapid counter-battery fire against Serb artillery units during the siege of Sarajevo, the long range of its guns allowing it dominate the surrounding terrain.* Meng Model’s 1:35 scale AUF1 follows hot on the heels of their excellent AMX-30B. The kit comprises a whopping 507 parts in green plastic, 360 parts in brown for the individual track links, 17 in clear, 20 polythene caps, two photo-etched frets and markings for three vehicles. All the plastic parts are cleanly moulded and sprue attachment points are fine, so clean-up will not be a chore. The suspension is very impressive with workable shock absorbers and torsion bars. Wheels are attached via polythene caps trapped between the halves. Tracks are workable too, being made up from two pieces for each link. A jig is supplied to assist assembly and alignment. A painting mask is offered too, so
that the rubber track blocks may easily and quickly be painted a different shade. Nice touch! The complex engine deck is particularly well done with its network of vents, grilles and mesh covers. The massive turret has a substantial interior, with seats, a breech, textured floor, photoetched mesh protection walls, various controls, ammunition and racks, radios and even small arms. The big turret hatches are all separate and may be posed open to display the nice detail, including stowed ammunition from behind the turret. The instructions provide marking details for one vehicle in French Army service. It is finished in a NATO three-colour camouflage scheme. Strangely though, there are additional markings for at least two more vehicles on the decal sheet, including prominent IFOR stencilled lettering. Meng’s 1:35 scale 155mm SelfPropelled Howitzer AUF1 looks amazing in the box. The sheer number of parts and level of detail might seem a bit daunting, but judging by reports from those who have worked on their earlier releases, should be a pleasure to build for experienced modellers to build. ■
Thanks to Meng Model for the sample www.meng-model.com
The perforated gun barrel is split down the middle.
Nice casting number and bolt head detail.
Hatches are separate, allowing the detailed interior to be displayed.
Spare ammo is moulded straight into the rear of the racks.
Individual link tracks are provided.
Clear parts including drivers visor and cupola insert.
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The two big photo-etched frets. * History courtesy of Wikipedia. More details may be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GCT_155mm
The supplied jig will make track assembly a lot easier and more precise.
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Young Miniatures 1:10 scale USMC Radio Operator, Hue, Vietnam 1968 • Item No. YM 1817
HUE AND CRY Matt Wellhouser describes the painting and shading of Young Miniatures’ big 1:10 scale USMC Radio Operator bust.
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Various shades where used for the different parts of the uniform. The flak jacket was painted with Dark Yellow and Brown Violet.
Following a grey primer coat, the torso’s nooks and crannies were sprayed with Tamiya Flat Black.
Once dry, I mixed up some basic OD type green for the all weather pull over.
he Battle of Hue was one of the bloodiest clashes of the Vietnam War. The Tet Offensive started on January 31, 1968. Highway One passed thru Hue on its way to Da Nang. Da Nang was an important coastal city and Hue was also a base of the US Navy supply boats so when 10,000 Viet Cong troops invaded it was going to be a fight. The US Marines were outnumbered and much of the fighting was house to house. Taking Hue would have had a profound impact on the Vietnamese people. The Marines held back the Viet Cong and won the battle. Young Miniatures released this 1:10 scale kit a while back depicting a young Marine with a PRC-25 radio. Strapped to the radio are several grenades of coloured smoke used to mark locations for aerial targets and rescue. The Marine is wearing the standard issue flak jacket and a US Navy all weather pull over underneath. He has the recognisable steel pot with
The hardware was painted Black and weathered with a silver pencil.
the Mitchell camouflaged helmet cover. The cover is a leaf pattern and may be primarily brown or green. Very commonly seen were bottles strapped to the helmetusually gun oil or insect repellent “Bug Juice”. Young Miniatures has done an outstanding job of sculpting. The kit comprises 16 parts, all are resin except for a length of coiled copper wire for the microphone handset. Clean-up is very straight forward, and as usual everything fits straight away. I like to paint in subsections, so the head, helmet, radio, grenades and small parts are painted separately. Once everything was primed with Tamiya spray primer, the fun began.
PAINTING BASE COLOURS On the main torso, I sprayed all the nooks and crannies with Tamiya Flat Black with my airbrush. I like to pre-shade these areas as it helps define the shadows. Once dry, I mixed up some basic OD type green for the all weather pull over. I used Olive Green,
The helmet cover was painted with a base of Green Ochre, and Dark Yellow.
The helmet is a great piece of casting. Here is has been primed and is ready for painting.
The web straps were more of the pull over base mix with more Olive Grey added.
Russian Uniform and Olive Drab (all Vallejo Model Colour). With a figure like this it is difficult to not paint everything the same shade of green. I like to note what I used for each piece then switch it up a bit for the next uniform piece. Don’t get hung up using “OD Green” because that is what this soldier wore. More importantly, mix your colours for what looks right. I studied many photos from books and the Internet. Just as with many other types of uniforms, “OD Green” varied tremendously form soldier to soldier and year to year so don’t spend a lot of time searching for that exact colour. With all the shades of green, I create shadow colour by adding German Camouflage Black Brown to the basic mix, and add Sunny Skintone for the highlight. In a few spots I use Green Grey or Buff mixed with the base for highlights. Usually I spray the base colour to speed up my process. Then, moving to shading and highlights, brushwork is used.
SHADOWS AND HIGHLIGHTS Shadows and highlights are always diluted to at least 40% paint or less. As you layer your coloursone successive shade on another - the water in the mix increases. Probably the hardest concept in acrylic painting to master is the layering of paint and the dilution strength of that paint. The layering is done when two adjacent colour shades meet- for example the mid tone and the shadow. You use these diluted “glazes” to hide the hard colour line between the shades of colour. Moving outward to the pullover, I shifted the basic palette using more OD Green. The flak jacket was painted with Dark Yellow and Brown Violet. I like to mix a small dot of Tamiya Flat Base into the colour mix. It helps flatten the colour and makes successive coats easier to apply. On the different panels along the front of the jacket, I added English Uniform to the mix. The web straps were more of the pull over base mix with more Olive Grey added. The hardware A
I gave the helmet a wash of Burnt Umber Oil Paint.
The camouflage spots were painted a couple shades of green and random orange leaves were painted Orange Brown.
The remainder of the helmet was painted- the strap and elastic holding the bottle of gun oil.
The helmet was dusted with MIG pigments “European Dust”. This actually has a reddish brown tint and looked perfect for Vietnam.
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Young Miniatures 1:10 scale USMC Radio Operator, Hue, Vietnam 1968 • Item No. YM 1817
B was painted black and weathered
with a silver pencil. Tip: I use Andrea Inks to create a dark wash to “pop” the edges and seams of the figure. I generally use black and brown inks diluted with water. The helmet cover was painted with a base of Green Ochre, and Dark Yellow. At first this seemed pretty hideous. The camouflage spots (which look like leaves) were painted a couple shades of green and random orange leaves were painted Orange Brown. On each leaf spot there is a faint “stem” running through the leaf. This was painted with the base colour – some were darker so I used the darker green for that. Once I was satisfied with the basic layout, I gave the helmet a wash of Burnt Umber Oil Paint. This was a light wash- just enough to fill in the details. Then using a very thin mix of Khaki, I painted the edges of the seams, and cutouts. Then I very lightly painted faint lines across the helmet to simulate the threads in the fabric. This is a very similar technique I used on the SS Machine gunner shown in issue 70 of MMI. Once dry, then I dusted the helmet with MIG pigments “European Dust”. This actually has a reddish brown tint and looked perfect for Vietnam. Then again I returned with the light Khaki to accentuate the seams and details. The remainder of the helmet was painted- the strap and elastic holding he bottle of gun oil. The gun oil bottle was painted a mix of black and grey. The lettering was a very nerve wracking moment with my #0 brush and black paint. On to the face. I used my standard mix of Brown Sand, Burnt Cadmium Red, Basic Skintone and Burnt Umber. I start with the eyes - base of Basic Skintone and off white, I paint the whites of the eyes. Be careful to not make them too white. Add some Brown Sand to take some of the white away. I edge the eye with a mix of Burnt Cadmium Red, Violet, and Old Rose - I try to show the pink colour at the edges of the eye lids. I carefully paint a black spot for the basis of the pupil. Tip - unless it is really necessary, do not paint your eyes looking straight ahead. Try to have your figure looking off to the side. That way you will avoid the crossed eyes. Most of my figures have blue eyes. Reason? Blue eyes are easy to paint and they really make it easy to bring a figure to life. Brown just doesn’t have the impact. I use a base of Grey Blue and highlight with Andrea Blue
For the face, I used my standard mix of Brown Sand, Burnt Cadmium Red, Basic Skintone and Burnt Umber.
The radio was airbrushed Alclad Duraluminum as a base.
for the pupil. A small dot of black works for the iris. Once I have the eyes looking uniform, I will coat the eye with clear gloss. I usually give it two or three coats on large scale figures. Another tip: give the eye a wash of Burnt Cadmium Red after you gloss coat it. It flows nicely and creates a bloodshot war weary look. On large figures, I do not add a catch light to the eye. The gloss coat takes care of that. When painting the flesh potion of the face, the same technique of glazes is used to soften the transitions from highlight to shadow. I mix a small amount of Flat Black with Brown Sand to create the beard. Just be careful here, this is a young looking Marine. It is easy to build this up with a very light mix (90% water to 10% paint).
I applied some latex masking fluid to the radio in spots where the paint would chip off during use.
FINISHING THE FITTINGS On to all the parts. The PRC-25 radio is moulded in separate parts as the radio set, the antenna, the antenna bag, and the handset. Early on I decided that I did not want to paint all the stencilling on the grenades. Fortunately Arms Corps Models produces decals for the grenade stencilling as well as legends for the radio set. An email to Jason Miller at Arms Corp had the set on its way to me. The radio was airbrushed Alclad Duraluminum as a base. Then I applied some latex masking fluid to the radio in spots where the paint would chip off during use (check your reference pics). Next I sprayed Tamiya Olive Drab. I used a toothpick to remove the masking, which revealed the sliver underneath.
The face complete.
The radio painted and weathered.
Once dry, the decals were applied to the top of the radio. Jason includes very good instructions and you actually get two sets in case you screw something up (no comment). I drilled the antenna base and antenna to take a small section of brass wire- this will allow me to remove the antenna for transport. The antenna was bent by gently heating it with a warm hair dryer (be careful here- too much heat and you will destroy the antenna and probably burn yourself). The handset was sprayed with Tamiya Flat Black and glued to the figure. Next up was the smoke grenades. After priming, I airbrushed the grenades with Tamiya Field Grey. Since the decals cover a big part of the grenade, each was given a coat
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The smoke grenades are well detailed.
of Future floor polish for a gloss base. The decals went on without a problem. Once dry I used the good old toothpick to “weather” the decals, to chip them up. Then each grenade was painted the corresponding colour. Tip - when Tamiya paint is not fully dry, it has a ”rubbery” consistency. A toothpick or similar tool makes it easy to “chip” the paint off. Final touches with silver paint gave them a just right look. The antenna bag on the left side of the radio was painted with English Uniform, which was shaded with Camouflage Black Brown and highlighted with Sunny Skintone. Again, I used Tamiya Flat Base added to the mix. I also used the Andrea Inks to help accentuate the seams and details. Everything was now assembled. I like to use 5 minute epoxy or super glue depending on the part. When using epoxy, I will preplan my gluing strategy and use blutak or poster putty to temporality hold everything in place until the glue sets. The painting was mostly achieved with a size 0 and size 00 paint brush.
I airbrushed the grenades with Tamiya Field Grey.
The decals went on without a problem.
MORE TIPS: BRUSHES One of the most common question I get is “what kind of brushes do you use”? I use Winsor & Newton Series 7 water colour brushes. The most common size I use is 0. The second most common is 00. Occasionally I may use a 1 for large areas. 0’s hold paint well, has a nice sharp tip and actually is easier to use than the smaller sizes. I guess I use the 0’s about 90% of the time. I have tried other brands and types, but the Series 7 are the best that I have found for brush painting. I keep the plastic covers on when not painting and I clean them after every painting session with soap and warm water.
PALETTE: I use a wet palette. Sound fancy, but it was designed for watercolour painters to keep their paint mix wet when not painting. It’s a plastic box with a thin sponge in the bottom with a sheet of paper covering the sponge. It has a tight fitting lid to keep the paint from dying out. The paper is made for the palette so I does not shed fibers. You can find these at your local art supply store. I find it is invaluable for storing my paint mixes- I can always go back and touch up an area and not worry my colour will be off. Once done you toss the paper and clean the sponge. This was an absolute awesome kit to paint. It is not complicated, and has enough detail to satisfy the most discerning figure painterHighly Recommended! ■
I used 5 minute epoxy and super glue for final assembly.
Modelspec Young Miniatures 1:10 scale USMC Radio Operator, Hue, Vietnam 1968. Item No. YM 1817 Paints Used: Tamiya Grey Aerosol Primer Tamiya acrylic X-21 Flat Base; XF-1 Flat Black; XF-59 Desert Yellow; XF-62 Olive Drab Alclad Duraluminum Vallejo Model Colour (Various) ✓ Fantastic sculpting; high quality moulding; straightforward clean-up; great for American Vietnam War fans. ✗ Nothing worth mentioning. Available from Young Miniatures products may be seen on their website www.young-miniatures.com
Rating This was an absolute awesome kit to paint.
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MiniArt 1:35 Soviet Artillery Tractor Ya-12 • Kit No. 35140
THERE ONCE WAS AN N
ot being all that knowledgeable in all things Soviet and World War II, this kit represents a change from all things Panzer for me. It is also unusual in that I have absolutely no reference material on it at all, so this is a “straight from the box” approach. Sometimes that is not a bad thing though. After all, I bet that you have bought a model on an impulse before, yes? My experience with MiniArt so far has been with their Valentine kits and this one has the same style of mould quality, instructions and presentation. What we get in the box are 5 sprues for the vehicle, then 15 for the track links, 1 etched metal fret, 1 clear sprue and a further 6 sprues with stowage in the form of 122mm shells and crates. A set of decals gives you markings for the shells and crates as well as six vehicles. There is a little bit of flash on some of the sprues, but the parts themselves are flash free. The instruction booklet has 41 steps with clear, uncluttered, drawings covering the tractor and a further eight for the shells and stowage. Overall quality is excellent. Some of the parts are very fine, so fine in fact that they had broken on the sprue, but more of that later. Detail provided is first class and I will highlight some stand-out areas as we go on. So, lets dive in! Construction starts with the engine, which has a high level of detail throughout. Just add plumbing for realism. We then
That pin is where the suspension arm attaches.
move onto the chassis and suspension system. There are five sets of torsion bars mounts to assemble and these then affix to the separate chassis rails. I would recommend here that you assemble the chassis to the front and rear rails first and that all straight and true before you add the torsion bar units. I should add that the torsion bars are designed to be moveable as well. The chassis is completed by the addition of the engine, battery box, fuel tanks radiator and the mounts for the cab and cargo deck. Moving onto the cab, the first thing that is apparent is the lovely wood grain texture on the cab panels. There are no ejector pin marks visible on this detail - thank you MiniArt! The window frames are commendably thin but this resulted in one of mine being broken on the sprue, and all I can recommend is that you plan on how to get them off without them breaking apart. Inside the
This is the final drive housing.
cab you get a basic set of driver controls and an instrument panel, but no decals for the instrument faces. When you attach the cab to the chassis there is a cover on the driver’s side that hides the batteries. This also contains the headlight and I must say that the headlight guard is beautiful as moulded. The engine is covered by the bonnet (hood) and the side louvres so I would recommend careful test fitting and maybe deviating from the instructions here to get a perfect fit. The instructions now have you assemble the tracks. These come as individual links and the detail on them is superb with the guide horns being very well represented. They are designed as clip-together but they are not workable. Don’t go losing any links as 180 are provided and you need 174 for the kit so you have a slim margin to allow for tweezer launch. We next tackle the cargo bed and, again, the wood grain texture
is represented beautifully. The bed itself is made from separate sides and contains benches either side that can be depicted raised or lowered. The beauty of that is that you can fill this with just about anything you like, from soldiers to the supplied cargo of 122mm shells. There is a lot of space, and a lot of opportunity. No cover is provided for this cargo bed, but the supports are there and moulded incredibly fine and attached to the sprue by no less than 9 separate point. Replacement in brass wire may be best!
CONSTRUCTION NOTES I could not resist putting this beast together, it is just so ugly and brutish-looking! The engine is built first, however I left off some of the plumbing linking it to the radiator and exhaust until it could be fixed to the chassis. The chassis itself is best built by fixing the rear crossmembers to the chassis halves
One of the fuel tanks and its mounting to the chassis.
The completed engine.
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Graham Tetley explores unfamiliar territory by building MiniArt’s new 1:35 scale Soviet Artillery Tractor Ya-12.
AN UGLY DUCKLING The overall assembled chassis.
Detail on the underside of the chassis.
Close-up of the engine, battery and radiator.
The driver’s compartment and instrument panel. One of the completed ammo boxes.
What a beast!
and then bringing them together. Fit is excellent and it is pretty impossible not to get it straight and true. Please ensure that you fix the correctly numbered torsion bar mounts in their correct place, if you mix and match then the two plates at the bottom will not fit. In other words, follow the instructions religiously. The trickiest part of assembly is when you get to the various linkages that connect to the driver’s pedals. The parts themselves are extremely fragile and attached to the sprues by many attachment points but I did manage to get them all off without breaking anything. Or so I thought – as you can see in the pictures one of the linkages is short but thankfully you can’t see this once the cargo bed is on. Take your time, go easy on the glue, and
The remaining sub-assemblies waiting to be brought together.
plan 2 or 3 steps ahead. Once that is done, the engine, exhaust and fuel tanks are added. It is also the stage where you fit the radiator and link up all of that plumbing that you have (hopefully) left separate. Apart from the fiddly linkages the fit of everything here is perfect to say that I am impressed is an understatement. I mentioned the suspension system above, and MiniArt has designed the torsion bars to be moveable. The problem I found is that it is difficult to then fit the wheel mounts as the contact surface for glue is not very big. I ended up gluing all of them level as this made the whole lot more rigid. The track links are beautifully done but they are not workable. When I first fixed the top run I had some beautiful sag, but as the glue dried overnight the whole lot contracted and ended up almost straight. So if you want some sag use a few of the spare links.
The underside, with tracks on.
With the chassis now complete we move onto the cab. Now, here is where I made a problem for myself by building the cab and attaching the bonnet. It turns out that, like the real thing, that big pointy bit sticking
up from the linkages (I think it may be the clutch) actually fits through a hole in the cab floor. It is ingeniously done, but impossible to fit when the bonnet is glued to the cab. So, to save yourself some pain, follow the instructions and fit the cab to the chassis rails and then build the bonnet around that. You can build the windows in a hinged open position (with some miniscule etched parts) if you wish, but I opted to have them closed. More teeny-tiny bits form the bonnet catches and switches in the cab, and if you build them really carefully the whole lot can be lifted off to show the engine, the fit is that good.
CARGO BED Now, we move onto the cargo bed. It is made from separate sides so you must ensure that everything is straight and true. I found it helpful to glue the side stowage lockers in place as those parts ensure that the rest of it is totally straight. Optional parts are provided to have the row of wooded seats either folded up or down, a nice touch. Also provided are the rails for a tarpaulin and, like the gear linkages, these are very fragile so be careful cutting them from the sprues. You will have to make
The headlight box and detail o the engine screen.
your own tarpaulin though. The completed sub assembly is then test fitted to the chassis and guess what – it fits perfectly! Lastly, we see the supplied 122mm ammo crates assembled. MiniArt offers options with these crates in what shells you want stowed so you can mix and match. Follow the instructions for the options and you cannot go wrong.
CONCLUSION I don’t normally go for Russian WWII stuff, but this kit has changed my mind on that. Detail is first class and, despite it being an ugly looking beast, it has many hidden charms. This is not a weekend build and the finesse of many parts will drive you up the wall. That said, the fit and engineering is absolutely stunning and I can honestly say that I have never build a better fitting kit. For such an unusual model I am very, very impressed in how MiniArt have handled it. ■
9 out of 10 from me! Highly recommended. MiniArt Models are available online from Creative Models Limited www.creativemodels.net
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A round-up of the latest news and releases in 1:72 and 1:76
1:72 PZ. KPFW. V PANTHER AUSF. D KIT NO. 5010
Zvezda continues their ‘Snap-Fit’ range of 1:72 scale vehicles with a Panther Ausf. D. The kit comes in the standard end opening box, featuring excellent artwork on the front and views of the built model on the back. The contents consist of two large sprues of tan styrene, one sprue of black styrene (the tracks), the lower hull tub, a small sheet of decals, the instruction sheet and a Zvezda game card. The moulding standard is very high with no flash or sink marks in evidence, and ejector pin marks absent or well hidden. The kit is well engineered with many features that are absent in many more expensive and well known kits, such as separate tools, suspension arms and periscopes. The level of detail is also very good, particularly around the running gear and tracks, which are fully detailed on both sides. These follow the same assembly procedure as the Tiger I with lugs clipping between the rows of road wheels. This allows the track to sag realistically along the top of the road wheels, which, apart from the outer ones are joined in rows to aid assembly. There are some drawbacks with the kit, the first being all the hatches moulded closed, requiring some surgery to open them, and no photo-etch is provided for such items as the engine deck screens. These will have to be sourced from after-market suppliers. A word of caution is needed during assembly as dry-fitting snap-together kits can lead to components being unable to be disassembled! The instructions are well drawn and straight forward to follow, and finish with two paint schemes, both from Pz.Abt.51, Operation Citadel, Kursk 1943, for which a small sheet of well printed decals are provided. Out of the box, this kit will build a very good wargaming piece, and with some extra work will make a fine display model. This kit is highly recommended for modellers of all abilities. Thanks to The Hobby Company Limited for the sample www.hobbyco.net Steve Shrimpton
1:72 SD.KFZ.261 KLIENER PANZERFUNKWAGEN KIT NO. 7447
This latest release in Dragon’s fourwheeled armoured car series is a bit of a disappointment. On opening the standard lid and tray box there is very little to see - two small and one larger sprues of midgrey styrene, the upper and lower hulls, the instruction sheet and the usual Dragon inlay card with nothing on it but a small decal sheet. There is only one vehicle in the kit, whereas earlier releases had two, so this represents significantly less value for money. There may seem a lot of parts on the tree sprues but inspection of the instruction sheet reveals many of the parts not for use. The quality of the moulding is up to Dragon’s usual high standard, with no flash or sink marks to be found, and fine surface detail in evidence. However, the kit has several major flaws to overcome. The most obvious is the fact that the wire mesh frame on the hull roof is moulded in solid plastic with just a grid texture! This should really have been supplied as etched brass as in previous Dragon kits, particularly as there is so little in the box. Also the aperture under the mesh frame is produced as a circular hole like a turret ring, whereas it should be rhomboid shape (although this cannot be seen because of the solid mesh!). There are also other minor problems, such as the side doors being moulded as separate items, but cannot be shown open as they have no inside details, and the driver’s visors have no vision slits in them. The instructions are the typical Dragon line drawings but must be studied carefully as there are holes to be drilled and options to choose. Two painting and marking options are provided, both Panzer Grey, for an unknown unit, 1941, and a 2. Pz.Div. vehicle, 1941 for which a small, well printed decal sheet is provided. The frame and mast aerials are well modelled and will look impressive on the completed model, but much work and additional expense will be needed to make this into an acceptable display model. Difficult to recommend, particularly in terms of value for money. Thanks to The Hobby Company Limited for the sample www.hobbyco.net Steve Shrimpton
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Book Reviews POLISH TRACKS & WHEELS 3 POLISH VICKERS PART 2 BY ADAM JONCA STRATUS ISBN: 978-83-61421-50-4
STATED AS 1:72 SCALE; SCALES OUT TO 1:76 SAS RAIDER 4X4 TRUCK KIT NO. 7481
Again, Dragon has disappointed with this release of the SAS version of the American Jeep for two main reasons. First there is only one small vehicle in the box, not two as with previous jeep kits, and secondly, the kit scales out at 1:76 not 1:72 scale! The kit consists of the body of the vehicle, one medium and two small sprues of mid grey styrene, a small sprue of clear styrene and an instruction sheet. No decals or etched brass are included. The moulding is to the usual high standard with no flash or sink marks, and ejector pin marks are absent or well hidden. Quite a few of the parts are marked on the instruction sheet as not for use, but the details on the majority of small parts is very good, particularly the machine guns, of which five are mounted on the vehicle. The clear parts again are well produced with the areas to be painted slightly matt to accept the paint better. The instructions are the usual Dragon line drawings, which should be studied carefully as there are holes to be drilled and options to choose. There is one painting and marking scheme for a vehicle in Northwest Europe, 1944, in Olive Drab and Matt Black ‘Mickey Mouse’ pattern camouflage. Recommended with reservations. Thanks to The Hobby Company Limited for the sample www.hobbyco.net Steve Shrimpton
This follows Polish Tracks & Wheels first volume on the Vickers Tanks, further expanding the available knowledge of Polish AFVs. Like Volume One, this title is a thoroughly enjoyable and excellent title. The book covers the excellent between wars Vickers designs as used by the Polish Army and spans the following models: • Vickers Medium Mark D, Six Ton • Vickers Carden Loyd Mk V1 • 4 Ton Artillery Tractors • Light Amphibious Tank, 7TP • Vickers/7TP, Reinforced 7TP The book is a large A4 format title on good quality glossy paper, well packed with clear large photographs and interesting text describing the history and development of the vehicles, many of which went on to arm the Polish mechanised forces. The reader is launched straight into mini chapters of a few pages each covering the major types and variants with histories, descriptions and specifications. These are well supported by photos and excellent colour plates. The major part of the book is devoted to the Polish modification of the Vickers 6 Ton design, the 7TP, in its major guises such as the twin turreted MG armed variant and the standard gun tank. There are hundreds of clear well caption photos of these in support of informative and interest text. The Polish used this chassis extensively in their mechanisation plans and various tractor models were introduced based on it and used in recovery, artillery prime mover and armoured engineering roles. The book adequately covers these and also details the combat history of the various models within its 88 pages. No pullout plans are included this time, but organisation charts are included for various tank formations at different periods. These are well supported by good explanations. Of interest to modellers is a coloured chart of the Stupski Plates (Message Flags) explaining what the various colours, shapes and combinations represent. A large selection of photos of the 7TP at war adorns the pages but most of these are knocked out examples with German sightseers clambering over them. It is fantastic as a modeller and armour enthusiast to see such titles covering important vehicles in such detail and the Author and publisher are to be commended for a thoroughly excellent title. The text is readable and fascinating throughout, supported by excellent charts, colour profiles and B&W photos. For anyone with an interest in Polish Armour, this book is a must. It will be of equal worth to the modeller, historian, wargamer or enthusiast. Highly Recommended. Thanks to MMP Books for the sample www.mmpbooks.com Al Bowie
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1:35 SCALE SOVIET T-24 MEDIUM TANK • KIT NO. 82493
The T-24 was one of the early Soviet tank designs spawned from the earlier T-12 and T-18 projects, which in turn were based on the Renault FT design. Initial trials of the T-24 found performance satisfactory but the prototypes engine caught fire and the turret was transferred to a T-12 for further testing. Only 24 were built and they were armed only with a machine gun until 1932 when a suitable 45mm gun was installed. They were not further developed, as they were found unreliable and confined to training and parades. Although a failure, the Kharkov Locomotive Factory (KhPZ) gained valuable experience and developed a successful series of artillery tractors from it culminating in the successful T-24 based Komintern artillery tractors that towed Soviet medium artillery such as the 152mm howitzer. With only 24 examples being built, the T-24 seems an unlikely choice for a mainstream model producer but HobbyBoss has shared parts with the Komintern tractor and offered us an unusual Soviet design from the pre-war period. The kit is presented in the usual stout divided HobbyBoss packaging with striking artwork depicting a T-24 traversing a snow-covered field. The box is packed with tan and brown (track links) sprues with a small photo-etched fret and one-piece lower hull and turret pieces. These 312 parts (plus PE) combine under the modeller’s guidance to give a good sized model of a rare design, certainly not another case of Sherman or German which I commend manufacturers such as HobbyBoss. It is great to see companies offering such interesting subjects. The detail is crisp and the hull rivets well represented. Construction does not appear difficult and test fittings where possible shows no major fit issues. The majority of the construction will be the running gear of which there are 8 assemblies each of twelve parts plus 136 of the 144 track links to make the track runs. The track links, whilst being individual, are glue together and not the snap together type. Their detail is sharp and they are moulded in a earth brown shade of styrene. Construction of the hull and turret looks pretty straightforward and thankfully can be done as assemblies separate from the lower hull, which will aid in construction as the track runs will need to be on the lower hull and I’d wager will be easily damaged when constructed, not due to the kits design but the originals tank's. A coloured marking and colour guide is supplied for a single vehicle with minimal markings – a pair of number 3s, a red circle with white cross and a small white 017. Additional hull numbers are provided but no further registration numbers. This is a great kit of an unusual subject that should appeal to modellers who like something different or Soviet armour. I hope HobbyBoss continues to offer such interesting subjects. Highly Recommended. Available online from Creative Models Limited www.creativemodels.co.uk Al Bowie
Products that help you in achieving a realistic finish are always welcomed by this armour modeller, and here is one such product. What we have here is a three-step track blackening product for using with white metal tracks such as Friulmodel. This product will assist greatly in saving you the time priming and painting, then weathering. It comes in three 100ml bottles all clearly marked 1, 2, 3, a double sided sheet with the instructions and a health and safety warning, all easy to understand. In a nutshell, bottle one is a Cleaner/Degreaser, bottle two is a Conditioner and three the Blackener. As long as you follow the instructions you will have no problem at all. It does also state that this set is good to do two to three sets of tracks, depending on the size of course. This is a welcome addition to products to assisting us all, though, I must say, that it still does seem a little time consuming with the three steps compared to other products where the process is one step only, but that’s just my small gripe for now! I recommend this product to all. Now lets get those tracks out! Recommended. Thanks to TI Hobbies for the sample Andrew Judson
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1:35 SCALE BRITISH ANTI-TANK GUN QF 6 PDR MK.II KIT NO. 3518
MODEL WASH 35ML BOTTLES
We all know Vallejo for their wide range of paints and pigments, and now they have a new range that has hit the market, being made up from twelve washes. These washes may be used in several ways - as a basic wash, pin wash, or for weathering effects such as worn and chipped paint, rust and dust. Chipped paint you say? Yes, thanks to a new prouct as part of this range, Chipping Medium, you can do this. Much the same as the hair spray technique, you apply the base colour, followed by the chipping medium, and then top colour with or without a wash, then using a damp brush, start flaking off the top colour revealing the base colour until you have the desired effect. Very clever, and it can be applied by brush or air brush. The same applies for the washes as well, depending on the effect you are after. The range of colours sent for review are as follows: 76501 White 76503 Dark Yellow 76505 Light Rust 76506 Rust 76507 Dark Rust 76512 Dark Green 76513 Brown 76514 Dark Brown 76515 Light Grey 76516 Grey 76517 Dark Grey 76518 Black 76550 Chipping Medium All of the above are acrylic. Once dry they are safe to touch and dry in a flat finish. They all come in a 35 ml squeeze bottle and should go a long way due to the larger size. I believe that these have only increased the range of effects we can achieve on our kits and look forward to using them on my next major project. I highly recommend these to all, and can only hope that the colours expand in the range. Get some. You won't regret it. Highly Recommended. Available online from Creative Models Limited www. creativemodels.co.uk Andrew Judson
The British entered WWII with the 2 Pdr anti tank gun, which was extremely effective early in the war but had already planned for a successor (a 57mm weapon) beginning in 1938. This was delayed for a variety of reasons, in particular the loss of majority of the BEF equipment in France and the need to re equip as soon as possible. As such the gun did not enter service until May 1942 by which time the 2 Pdr was struggling with heavier German armour being fitted to the Pz III and IV’s arrayed against the allies. The Six pounder was highly effective when introduced and still continued in service until the end of the war in various marks and with new Sabot Ammunition which gave it a potent punch. It was used by all the Commonwelath forces in the AT and Infantry AT role and licence produced in a modified form by the US as the M1. This kit is not a new tooling as some have surmised but has a long history, first being released by MaxPeerless with their Bedford Portee in the late 1960s. Since then it has been released by Airfix, Italeri (with additions), Tomy, Zvezda and others. Compared to todays releases of artillery this is a basic kit and shows its age but it is still light years ahead of the only other Styrene 6 Pdr kit from Tamiya, which is a crude toylike affair of a Mk. IV gun. The kit has 100 parts in grey styrene and I must admit the simplicity in its construction appealed after doing a few of the Bronco guns! The detail is quite good for a kit of the 1990s let alone the 1960s, and construction is pretty straightforward. I was quite impressed with the tyres, which have all the manufacturer’s detail moulded on. This boxing is like the original and does not include the ammunition and base found in the Italeri version. Unfortunately there are quite a few knockout marks and some warpage but nothing that isn’t easily fixed. With a little bit of effort, a very nice kit of this important weapon can be built and at present is the only Mk. II 6 Pdr available in plastic. As such I recommend this kit. This is marked as a limited edition but should be readily available at the moment. Recommended. Thanks to The Hobby Company Limited for the sample www.hobbyco.net Al Bowie
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Italeri 1:35 U.S. Armoured Gun Truck • Kit No. 6503
… E S R O H N O IR ALMOST Graham Tetley decided Italeri’s new 1:35 scale M923 armoured gun truck was so straightforward, that he built it straight away.
ased on the M923 ‘Big Foot’ kit, Italeri’s latest gives us an interesting variant on the American affair with Gun Trucks. The words ‘Gun Truck’ for me evoke the Vietnam examples such as ‘Eve Of Destruction’, ‘Snoopy’ and others. We have AFV Club’s kit in plastic and, to my knowledge, this is only the second plastic kit of a gun truck to be released. This particular version is noted as being from the Iraq conflict of 2005. Comprising approximately 210 parts moulded in olive green styrene, we have most of the basic M923 kit with some tweaks to Sprue ‘C’. This gives us the
additional cab and cargo bed armour, the mount and armour for the additional .50 cal machine gun and some new parts that attach to the wheel hubs.. Moulding is clean and crisp with a little flash present on my kit, there are also some knock-out pin marks on the inner faces of the cargo bed parts, mud flaps and others that will need filling if you are concerned. A small clear sprue provides parts for the windscreen and headlights, plus we also get a length of thin string to wrap around the cargo bed. A small decal sheet rounds the kit off with painting instructions showing a single three-tone green/black/red brown camouflage scheme.
One thing that I like about Italeri kits is that the instructions are fool proof. This one contains 16 clearly drawn, uncluttered, steps that are easy to follow. First impressions are that this is a very basic kit. The two part wheels have a tread pattern on them that bears no resemblance to the real thing so you may wish to replace them. All catches and latches are moulded solid and the wood grain texture on the cargo bed parts is a little heavy. A standout for me is the perforated exhaust cover that is moulded onto the exhaust box – this cries out for an etched part to replace it.
The modified “C” sprue.
Heavy detail on the side of the cargo bed.
Etch me baby!
The new .50 cal mount and shield.
Detail of the seats.
All this is once piece.
Because this is such a basic kit I decided to plunge right in and build it. As it turns out the actual build took 8 hours in total with approximately half of that cleaning up the parts. We start with the chassis, which is made up from two rails and several crossbeams. The representation of the engine comprises of two parts only and nicely sandwiches in place between the chassis rails. I found the suspension springs difficult to clean, but the fit of all parts was actually very good. The rear suspension set-up is tricky to get in place but actually quite rigid
The tread on the tyres bears only a passing resemblance to the real thing.
Detail on the welds is a little heavy.
The cab sides.
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Graham completed the model to this stage in only around 8 hours.
when finished. Again, I had no fit problems worthy of note here. As mentioned above, the tread on the road wheels bears only a passing similarity to the real thing. The two halves join together positively and, whilst they can be made to rotate, I glued mine to the axles. For me I found that the whole kit sat on all 6 wheels without any tweaking so, for a basic kit, I can’t fault the fit so far. I built the cab next and I must say that I found the fit of the side panels somewhat poor. The reason for this is that the cab floor is not
wide enough to fit the side panels to and have the assembly sit all square. I suggest that you fit the front radiator to the sides, then attach the back piece, then fix it to the cab floor. The exhaust assembly underneath does not connect to anything, indeed as you can see one of the exhaust stacks does not join to anything. Fortunately you can’t see this with the cab affixed to the chassis. My only main construction problem was in fitting the supports and ring for the cab machine gun. I hacked off the mounting tabs and that got
Conclusion When Italeri first announced this kit, the promotional material showed ‘Ironhorse’, an actual gun truck that did grab my interest. Sadly, this kit is not ‘Ironhorse’ and that is, I feel, a lost opportunity. This is a very basic and simple
Once completed this is very sturdy.
An illustration of the problem with the tyre tread.
it to fit okay. Last up is the cargo bed and again, I have to say that everything fitted together with no issues. There is plenty of space here to load it up with crew stuff and make it look like a gun truck.
kit that, for me, is a little too basic. That said, the kit’s retail price is very reasonable so you have pennies to spare on detail parts if you so wish. As a starter, I would buy a new set of tyres and some photo-etch for that muffler. Gun truck purists may find this kit wanting, but for a beginner to the hobby or just for a weekend break, it will be an inexpensive and easy project. n
Thanks to The Hobby Company Limited for the sample www.hobbyco.net
The new wheel hub parts.
The wing mirror assembly.
The cab .50cal and ring.
A close-up view from the front. Detail in the completed cab. June 2013 - Model Military International 57
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Bronco 1:35 88mm L71 Flak 41 Anti-Aircraft gun with Sd.Ah.202 Trailers • Kit No. CB-35114
Bill Wiseman is impressed with Bronco’s follow-up 1:35 scale 88mm Flak 41 release.
FLAK WOW FACTOR
his is the second release of the Flak 41 kit from Bronco, the difference this time being the inclusion of the Sd.Ah.202 trailers from Dragon. And what a kit it is! The large box contains around twenty sprues, two etched frets, a length of chain, a coil of tubing for the trailers, a small sheet of decals which have stencils for the ammo containers and dials for the gun, and a poster of the box art. The instructions are beautifully printed in booklet form, and are very user friendly. Construction begins with the cruciform base (stages 1- 6), and you need to take care to ensure all the parts go together cleanly and without any gaps. Use some fine steel wool to clean the edges after the glue has set. Once the main base has been assembled, the various details can be added, and there’s a lot of it. Quite a lot of the parts in this kit are very small, so to make life a bit easier, you should clean the parts whilst still on to the sprue, so all that’s left to clean is the attachment points. Again, care must be taken to avoid losing anything to the dreaded “carpet monster”. You can add part F 39 at this stage if you wish, which is detailed with etched parts P1, all 19 of them! Very easy to add though, and they look good once in place. The completed cruciform can be made in either combat or travel mode. Stages 7-8 are the beginnings of the gun mount, and this too is very well detailed. Take care with the construction of the small box (parts B56, B57, B58, B59,
B60) so that no gaps appear when complete. You may wish to replace the conduits (parts B20, B61, B62) with some fine wire to give a better representation, but the kit parts are fine and fit beautifully. Moving on to the gun (stages 9-16), we start with the breech, which is made up from a lot of parts, some of which are quite small. Another multi part assembly, but goes together like a dream, and fairly bristles with detail. Again, take your time, as the etched parts need careful placement to ensure they sit squarely and in the right place. With the barrel and breech completed, work can begin on the cradle. There’s a seam that will need to be filled as a result of the two main parts that form the cradle itself. Once that area has been dealt with, the rest of the parts can be added. Make sure that you check the alignment of parts F28 and B11 to ensure they’re straight, as the fit inside the recuperator shield. Etched parts P47 are easier to form if they’re heat softened first. Make sure trunnion mounts (parts B43, B44, B45, and B46) are gap free before adding them to the cradle. Once again, the detail here on the completed unit is amazing. The gun mount is next on the agenda, and this occupies stages 17 through 30. This a highly detailed area of the kit, making use of a myriad of tiny parts and etch to achieve that end. Starting with the side walls, the first thing to note is the non mention of part C32, which is attached to part
C2, and is a mirror image of parts C1 and B19. To make handling a bit easier, you may want to leave the seat off till completion of the mount, as it’s a fragile assembly, but beautifully (as are all the kit seats) detailed. Take care with the construction of the fuse setters, ensuring the main box like unit is gap free before adding any detail. The ammunition cradles are another of those delicate sub assemblies that need care when handling, due to the many small parts involved. But once complete, is another of those ‘wow’ area’s. The fire control portion of the kit is next, and once again we’re treated to another area of incredible detail. The same advice about gaps and care when handling apply here as well. The gun sight is made up from a lot of those previously mentioned tiny parts, some of which can be left off till after the main body of the sight (B70, B69, B87, B89) is attached to part C24. The shields are pretty well the last stage of the journey, and are very easy to construct. The only area you need to be careful with is at stage 32, where the majority of the parts are etch. You need to decide here whether to depict the view ports open or closed. This is simply a fantastic build with no real issues, and superb attention to detail from start to finish. ■
Fine details are beautifully rendered.
The plastic gun shields.
Ammunition is supplied.
Nice ammo crates are included too.
The gun itself is also supplied in plastic.
Thanks to Bronco for the sample www.bronco-model. com/en/index.php The gun mount is a highly detailed aspect of the kit.
The Sd.Ah.202 trailers are sourced from Dragon.
Trailer detail parts. The tyres feature crisp tread detail.
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Bronco 1:35 SU-152 • Kit No. CB-35109
It never rains but it pours! Following Trumpeter’s release of the same vehicle last year, Bill Wiseman examines Bronco’s all-new 1:35 scale kit of the SU-152 SelfPropelled Gun.
eveloped in 1943 and mounting a 152mm gun, the SU-152 was based on the KV-1S chassis, and quickly proved its value in battle being able to take on the various German heavies and knock them out. Known as the “beast killer”, it was eventually replaced by the ISU-152, which continued service up into the 1950s. Bronco’s kit comes packed in a large box containing 18 sprues of olive green plastic, copper wire for the towing cables, and a small etched fret. A sheet of decals with marking options for five vehicles (including German markings for a captured vehicle) is also present. A poster of the box art is included too. Construction logically begins with the lower hull, and the attachment of the rear plate. You’re given the choice of two different tow cable ends, which is a nice touch. From here it’s onto the interior of the hull to attach the mounting points for the torsion bars, and the mounts for the idler wheels. The sprockets are beautifully rendered, and would benefit from a little bit of a cast texture on the main hub. The idlers may be positioned to allow for better track tension, so take care with the glue at this point. The road wheels and swing arms are then fitted to the hull, and these are also designed to be workable, as are the return rollers. You can of course glue everything in a fixed position if you wish, but having the workable
The clear sprue.
suspension allows the vehicle to be posed more effectively when used in a diorama. Moving on to the interior of the lower hull, you can add the driver’s seat and controls, which are more than adequate given it is hard to see when the upper hull is in place. You get seats for the gunner and commander as well, and it’s here you need to decide if you want them folded or deployed. The last thing to do before starting the upper hull is to add the partial engine, which is well detailed, and perfectly adequate when viewed through the open engine hatch. A nice inclusion. Before commencing work on the upper hull, it is worth getting the tracks done while there’s nothing in the way. The tracks are the standard split type, and accurate for this model. Earlier types had a small hump on the split link, which was eliminated on the later track. The tracks are workable and, in the style of Modelkasten, utilise pins to assemble the links. The pins are longer than the Kasten type, which makes for a better fit, and less chance of the assembled track runs coming apart during handling. The engine deck is next, and is very straightforward build. You get the etched rear intake screen, but oddly not the two screens on the deck itself. A strange omission, but one that the aftermarket folks will undoubtedly rectify. At the time of writing, I believe Voyager has a set out for this vehicle, so that should address those missing items.
The 152mm gun is next, and it is very well detailed even though you won’t see that much of it through the open hatches. You get the option of open or closed breach which is another nice touch. The real jewel is the muzzle brake, which is moulded in one piece with all the vents open! This really is an impressive display of slide mould technology. The mantlet is also very nicely done with a beautiful cast texture. Inside the casemate sees the installation of the episcopes and internal lights, as well as the drivers instrument panel. Moving to the external aspect of the casemate see’s the addition of hatches, scope covers, and other details such as the headlight and rain channel over the drivers vision port. The etched tie downs (P5) can be added or replaced with an appropriate diameter wire for a better appearance. The rest of the build entails the final hull details, which is another pretty straightforward aspect of the kit. You may wish to replace the etched spare track retainers (P6) with versions made from plastic for ease of assembly, but the supplied parts are quite nice when assembled. All that’s left to do is make up two tow cables, attach them to your model, and hey presto, it’s painting time. Very highly recommended. ■
Thanks to Bronco for the sample www.bronco-model. com/en/index.php
The decals sheet includes options for five vehicles.
The big armoured casemate is moulded with suitably chunky surface texture.
Heavy cast texture on the mantlet parts.
The lower hull and copper wire supplied for the tow cables.
The gun barrel is presented in plastic.
The lovely slide-moulded one-piece muzzle brake.
The solid moulded side vents are a surprising shortcoming.
Well-moulded track links.
The jig will speed assembly of the tracks. June 2013 - Model Military International 59
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1:48 Scale – A round-up of the latest news and releases FEELING INSPIRED?
don’t know about you, but nothing annoys me more than people who have climbed Everest, swum the Channel, completed gruelling marathons or walked across the Gobi Desert. Please don’t tell me how you survived sailing solo around the world and please, oh please, don’t publish another modelling self-help book! No doubt all of these are noble and life–enhancing personal achievements, but honestly all of these just leave me flat. Such stories and books seem to be the flavour of month at the moment. But really at this stage of life all I want to see is real modellers that make mistake after mistake, lose parts, completely stuff up their paint jobs and paint figures with a two inch brush. All jokes aside though, I’d like to see the modellers that inspire us all to post a few pictures of some real failures. Why? Because it makes these icons more human. For me, that’s the key. I often wonder when reading magazines and
self help modelling journals how often the author ruins his builds or finishes. You’d never tell from their glossy representations of their modelling greatness. I often read captions and look at the photograph in articles and don’t often see a caption like “Well, this is a major bloody stuff up isn’t it!” Of course I know why. Most often when a mistake is made you don’t go out of your way to photograph it! I can tell you from personal experience that I stuff up with almost monotonous regularity with all of my models in some way or another. It could be a missed detail, sloppy brush strokes, glue marks, fingerprints, grainy paint, overspray, under weathering, over weathering or a whole raft of
other things. All of this begs the question, does failure inspire? For me, it does but that is a purely personal point of view and may say something about me in a way. But as I write this I wonder if others feel the same way.
Until next time
CORSAR REX MINIATURES
ELITE SOVIET SOLDIERS • ITEM NUMBER CR-48002
This new addition to the Corsar range of 1:48 scale figures reminds me a lot of the figures produced by Evolution, however these figures were previously offered by Mimiarm and have been resized - from 1:35 to 1:48 - with the same quality. What does this mean, you may ask? Well for all intents and purposes, these are as good as the Evolution line, which means they are high quality and as good as if not better than anything available in 1:35 scale. The five figures in this set are stunning. Four of the figures come with the two piece camouflage coveralls that include the two piece “Stalnyi Nagrudnik” metal chest armour first introduced (in this form) in the defence of Stalingrad and used by members of the 8th Guards Unit in the storming of Berlin in the closing weeks of the Second World War. The detail on these figures is outstanding. The facial details, the fabric folds and indeed the posing are all first rate. Four separate heads are provided and they are all done very well, there isn’t a dud among them. Another feature of these figures that I like is the way the hands are moulded onto the weapons as they really do look like they are gripping them. I sincerely hope this is the first of many sets from this manufacturer. I’ll be blunt. If you have any sort of interest in 1:48 figures and you don’t buy these you be stark raving mad! The complete range of Corsar Rex Figures may viewed on their web site http://corsarrex.com/ Highly Recommended. Thanks to Corsar Rex for the sample www.corsarrex.com Luke Pitt
SHERMAN FIREFLY TURRET • ITEM NO. TWS4803
Tank Workshop has established itself as a major player in the 1:48 aftermarket community with their extensive 1:48 scale range. It is pleasing to report that this update is, in my opinion, one of their best to date. The British Firefly was basically the only Sherman variant to go toe to toe with German armour at distance with its superb 17 pounder gun. This update from Tank Workshop includes a very well cast hollow cast main turret as one piece with all the hatches cast separately. The hatches are noteworthy as they include detail on the inside face. The real bonus with this upgrade is the inclusion of a turned aluminium barrel and brass muzzle brake. I really don’t think for the money you could really ask for anything more. Highly Recommended. Our thanks go out to Tank Workshop for the review sample www.tankworkshop.com Luke Pitt
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Luke Pitt hosts MMI’s examination of the growing world of 1:48 scale military models, figures and accessories.
STEYR “SAGGED” WHEEL SET ITEM NO. DW48004 KFZ.305 OPEL BLITZ “SAGGED” WHEEL SET ITEM NO. DW48005
DEF Model is fast becoming one of the premier aftermarket producers. Not only do they offer a great product but they also seem to include something a little extra whether it is a set of wheel masks or a small decals sheet. Each set is a joy to behold. Both of these sets have some very fine flash and a medium size casting plug on each wheel. The wheel sets, unlike many others, are not direct resin reproductions of the wheels they replace but rather an entirely new set of wheels. The detail on all the wheels presented for review is simply outstanding, with finely rendered sidewall and tread detail in evidence. The tyres are “sagged” for want of a better term. What this basically means is that each wheel has a flat spot on it where the wheel surface meets the ground. The effect is both subtle and very well done with an, ever so slight bulge on each contact point. The inclusion of a wheel mask in the set is welcome and really separates these from the rest. Highly recommended. Thanks to DEF Model for the sample www.defmodel.com Luke Pitt
BERLIN GOVERNMENT BUILDING RUIN ITEM NO. 4032
Rarely do we include matching reviews that seem to be made for each other. Having previously reviewed the new set of Corsar Rex Figures, this set arrived on my doorstep. This 1:48 scale ruin from Plus Models would make an ideal backdrop for those figures. The kit is presented in a very sturdy box with a very well done picture of the completed model on the box top lid. The items are very well packed with a large piece of bubblewrap surrounding them. All of the building components are made out of plaster of Paris with three for the building itself and two for the sidewalk. Two resin down pipes are included for the outside of the building. The detail on the outside of the building is rendered to a high standard and has a lot of interesting details. The broken brickwork is noteworthy and most of the bricks are rendered in relief, which is a nice touch. The interior of the building is bare but as the cast medium is so easy to cave, most modellers will have no trouble adding detail there. This is a quite a nice ruin and well worth the asking price. Highly Recommended. Thanks to Plus Models for the review sample www.plusmodel.cz Luke Pitt
POLISH ARMOURED CAR CREWMAN ITEM NO. 48F26
Toro Model continues to impress me with their releases. Each seems to be a breath of fresh air and this new release is no exception. What is on offer here is a 1:48 scale Polish armoured car crewman from the mid 1930s. The uniform is very well rendered with all the leather and fabric folds done to a high standard. The uniform is fairly generic for the period and with minor modification could be used as a Russian or indeed a German. Two heads are provided (which is a first for Toro) and as with the uniform are very well done. One has a Polish tanker helmet while the other has a World War I German style helmet. Highly Recommended. Thanks to Toro Model for the sample www.toro-model.home.pl Luke Pitt
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Contact Details - for companies featured in MMI... ACCURATE ARMOUR/ ARMOUR DISTRIBUTION
Units 15-16 Kingston Industrial Estate, Port Glasgow, Inverclyde, PA14 5DG Scotland. Tel; 01475 743 955 Fax; 01475 743746 www.accurate-armour.com
Iberyjska 7/49, 02-764 , Warsaw,Poland firstname.lastname@example.org www.adalbertus.com.pl
THE AIRBRUSH COMPANY Ltd
Unit 7 Marlborough Road, Lancing Business Park, Lancing, West Sussex, BN15 8UF. Tel; 08700 660 445 www.airbrushes.com
ALCLAD II LACQUER
5 St Georges Close, Bacton, Norfolk. NR12 0LL Tel; 01962 65216 Fax; 01692 652334
ALPINE, ROYAL MODEL, ARTISAN MORI, YOSCI; SMARTMODELLING No.7 Gordons Way, Oxted, Surrey RH8 0LN. UK Tel; 01883 734746 email@example.com
AMPERSAND PUBLISHING (via Historex Agents in UK)
235 NE 6th Avenue #4 Delray Beach, Florida 33483-5543, USA Tel; 561-266 9686 Fax; 561-266-9786
(Historex in UK)
PO Box 1277 Youngsville, NC 27596-1277, USA www.archertransfers.co
BADGER AIR-BRUSH COMPANY 9128W Belmont Ave, Franklin Park, IL 60131 Tel; 847/678-3104 www.badgerairbrush.com email firstname.lastname@example.org (In the UK from www.shesto.co.uk)
Available from www.hannants.co.uk and www.pdi-model-supplies.com
DELUXE MATERIALS www.deluxematerials.co.uk email@example.com Tel; 01529 455 0340
(The Hobby Company in UK)
Dragon Models Ltd, Kong Nam Ind. Building B1-10F, 603-609 Castle Peak Road, Tsuen Wan NT, Hong Kong Fax; (HK) 4110587 www.dragonmodelsltd.com (For 1:6 Action Figures, please contact Amerang in UK)
ECHELON FINE DETAILS
Available from; wwwaccurate-armour.com & http://pachome1.pacific.net.sg/~kriegsketten/
12 Delta Drive, Musselburgh, East Lothian, EH21 8HR Tel; 0131 665 0866 Mobile; 07877166225 www.friendshipmodels.com
GREAT NORTH ROADS
9a Marcombe Road, Torquay, South Devon, TQ2 6LL Tel; 01803 400436 www.greatnorthroads.co.uk email firstname.lastname@example.org
Harbour Road, Oulton Broad, Lowestoft, Suffolk, NR32 2LZ, Tel; 01502 517444 Fax; 01502 500521 www.hannants.co.uk email@example.com
Wellington House, 157 Snargate Street, Dover, Kent, CT17 9BZ, UK Tel; 01304 206720 Fax; 01304 204528. www.historex-agents.co.uk firstname.lastname@example.org
(Lifecolour, Scale Caliber)
Unit 5 Greenfield Industrial Estate, Forest Road, Hay on Wye, Powys, HR3 5FA Tel; 01497 822757 Email; email@example.com www.cammett.co.uk
Midland Counties Publications, 4 Watling Drive, Sketchley Lane Industrial Estate, Hinckley, Leics UK. LE10 1YF Tel; 01455 233 747, Fax; 01455 233 737 firstname.lastname@example.org www.classic-publications.com
CREATIVE MODELS LTD
(Mig Productions, Vallejo, Accurate Miniatures)
Unit 6-10, Honeysome Industrial Estate, Honeysome Road, Chatteris, Cambridgeshire. PE16 6TG Tel; 01354 760022 www.creativemodels.co.uk email@example.com
DARTMOOR MILITARY MODELS Haylis cottage, Budlake, Broadclyst Exeter, EX5 3LJ, England Tel; 01392 881271 www.dartmoormilitarymodels.com
C/ Santiago Rusinol 7, Pral 2a, 08750 Molins de Rei, Barcelona, Spain www.migproductions.com
MILICAST MODEL CO.,
9 Rannoch St., Battlefield, Glasgow G44 4DF, Scotland Tel/Fax; 0141 633 1400 firstname.lastname@example.org www.milicast.com
(ETCHMATE, GRABHANDLER, MICRO CHISEL)
www.etchmate.com www.missionmodels.com Tel; 818 842 1885 Fax; 818 842 1886 email@example.com, firstname.lastname@example.org, email@example.com
THE ARMORY; M&MODELS
9329 S. Cicero Ave, Oak Lawn, IL 60453, USA http://home.earthlink.net/~mmodels/
www.ianallanpublishing.com Mail Order Dept 01455 254450 Kiev 02099, Ukraine, Borispolskaya 9 building 64. Tel/fax; (+38044) 369-54-12 firstname.lastname@example.org www.icm.com.ua
(The Hobby Company in UK)
Via Pradazzo, 6, I-40012 Calderara Di Reno, Bologna, Italy, Tel; 051 726037 www.italeri.com
21 Graham Road, Paignton TQ3 1BB Tel; 01803 558520 www.just-bases.co.uk
4 High Street, Botley, Southampton, SO30 2EA Tel; 01489 781177 www.justkitsandmodels.co.uk
Industriestrasse 6, 94347 Ascha, Germany Fax; 09961 910 7826
Schiffer Publishing, 4880 Lower Valley Rd, Atglen, PA, 19310 USA www.schifferbooks.com
SCHIFFER BOOKS in UK
Bushwood Books, No.6 Marksbury Avenue, Kew Gardens, Surrey TW9 4JF, UK. Tel; 020 8392 8585, 020 8392 9876, email; email@example.com
SDV MODEL www.sdvmodel.cz
SIMPLE 2 TRADE
No 2 Hollywood Lane, Hollywood, Birmingham, B47 5PP Tel; 0121 474 3030 www.simple2trade.com
(Swash, Tasca, Gap, Yosci, Royal Model)
Tel; 01892 533036 www.modelwholesaleuk.com
No.7 Gordons Way, Oxted, Surrey RH8 0LN UK Tel; 01883 734746 firstname.lastname@example.org
Monroe Perdu Designs, 3168 Renee Court, Simi Valley, CA 93065, USA. www.monroeperdu.com
ORDNANCE MODELS Via; www.steelmodels.com
PACIFIC COAST MODELS Tel; 001 707 538 4850 email@example.com www.pacmodels.com
PO Box 164, Heathfield, Sussex TN21 8WA, UK www.panzerwrecks.com (Creative Models in UK)
Jizni 56, 370 10 C. Budejovice, Czech Republic. firstname.lastname@example.org www.plusmodel.cz
(Trumpeter & AFV Club in UK)
PO Box 80, Welwyn, Hertfordshire, England, AL6 0ND Tel; 01707 391509 Fax; 01707 327 466 email@example.com
PSP MODELS LTD (Mission Models in USA)
Unit 19B, Applin’s Farm, Farrington, Dorset DT11 8RA, UK Tel/Fax; 01747 811 817 www.psp-models.com
REVELL GmbH & Co. KG Orchard Mews, 18C High Street, Tring, Herts, HP23 5AH Tel; +44 (0) 1442 250130 Fax; +44 (0) 1442 245619 www.revell.eu
(TASCA, MASTER BOX) Retail; 151 Sackville Road, Hove, East Sussex, BN3 3HD, England. Tel/Fax; 01273 705420 firstname.lastname@example.org www.lsamodels.co.uk
Model Design Construction, Victoria Place, Victoria Road, Ripley, Derbyshire DE5 3FW Fax; 01773 513344 email@example.com www.modeldesignconstruction.com
MODEL WHOLESALE UK LTD
Via Hannants in UK
(Creative Models in UK)
HUSSAR PRODUCTIONS, CANADA
Unit 10 Hodfar Road, Sandy Lane Ind Est Stourport, Worcs, DY13 9QB Tel; 01299 823330 Fax; 01299 829970 firstname.lastname@example.org
Sano-shi, Kurohakama-cho 162-1, Tochigi 327-0813, Japan www.hlj.com
Via AFV Modeller or www.blast-models.com
MODELING ARTISAN MORI
UK distributor for Model Victoria and Royal Model
P.O. Box 114, Barrow-in-Furness, Cumbria, LA13 0WY. Tel/Fax; 01229 430 749 email@example.com www.sbmodels.net PO Box 794, Cheltenham GL52 3ZW, UK RICHARDSBLC@aol.com
SBX MODEL SHOP
Norwich Road, Ipswich. IP1 5DN Tel; 01473 464311 www.sbxmodelshop.co.uk
1115 Crowley Drive, Carrollton, TX 75006-1312 U.S.A
Owlerton Green, Sheffield, S6 2BJ Tel; +44 (0)114 234 4231 Fax; +44 (0)114 231 4966 General: firstname.lastname@example.org www.craftknives.com
Tamiya, Inc., 3-7 Ondawara Suruga-ku, Shizuoka 422-8610 JAPAN www.tamiya.com
THE HOBBY COMPANY LIMITED Garforth Place, Knowlhill, Milton Keynes, MK5 8PG, UK Tel; 01908 605686 Fax; 01908 605666 email@example.com www.hobbyco.net
www.trumpeter-china.com Pocketbond in the UK
VERLINDEN PRODUCTIONS (Historex in UK)
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Hobb a dra Juds
Kam Drag M4A a Pa
Next Issue On sale 6th June 2013
ISSUE No.86 June 2013, Published May 2nd 2013 Editor; Group Editor; Publisher; Graphic Design; Advertising Manager; Advertising Sales; Advertising Assistant; Office Manager; Administration Manager; MMI Website;
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HobbyBoss’s 1:35 scale Leopard 2A6 CAN is treated to a dramatic Barracuda camouflage upgrade by Andrew Judson with accompanying reference by Stuart Ransley.
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The Editor builds Tamiya’s 1:35 scale Tiran 5 tank.
Kamil Feliks Sztarbala places Dragon’s 1:35 scale USMC M4A2 Late PTO 2-in-1 in a Pacific WWII scene.
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The new upper hull.
The new turret features more prominent texturing as well as new stowage configuration.
Note the reshaped front fenders and “rubber” mudflaps.
1:35 SCALE TIRAN 5
The Editor takes a look at an early production boxing of Tamiya’s new 1:35 scale Tiran 5.
Two new crew figures are included.
The standard of sculpting is very good for the crew figures.
The plastic barrel is split lengthwise.
A choice of covered or uncovered mantlet is offered.
Plenty of spare jerry cans are provided.
y 1943, Soviet tanks found themselves pitted against daunting German super-Panzers and tank destroyers including Tigers and Panthers. It was clear that future enemies would also field such dangerous adversaries, so work began on a new Soviet tank design that was up to the challenge. The prototype for the new T-54 tank was produced just before the end of the war in February 1945. This was an all-new design with a low silhouette and rounded turret, with five large road wheels on each side, powered by a 12 cylinder diesel engine and armed with the 100 mm D-10T cannon. The T-55 was initially developed as a response to the need for nuclear, biological, and chemical protection of the vehicle and its crew. The T-55 received the new V-55 12-cylinder 4-stroke onechamber 38.88 litre water-cooled diesel engine, improved armour and increased ammunition stowage. The T-54 and T-55 are simple tanks that are relatively inexpensive to maintain and easy to crew. These attributes made the T-54/55 very popular as an export type, and large numbers were supplied to counties in the Middle East following the 1956 Suez Crisis. Israel subsequently captured around 400 T-54 and T-55 tanks during the Six-Day War in 1967. These were modified and returned into Israeli service as the Tiran 4 (based on the T-54) and the Tiran 5 (T-55). Further modifications and upgrades continued into the 1970s, and the Tiran 5 was eventually retired from front line service by the early 1980s
The new machine guns are crisply moulded and well detailed.
Tamiya’s 1:35 scale T-55 kit was released in 2002 and became an instant classic thanks to its high level of detail, accuracy and ease of assembly. It is still easily the best T-55 kit available in 2013. In much the same approach it took to last year’s T-55 Enigma, Tamiya has taken advantage of this excellent base kit to deliver a 1:35 scale Israeli Tiran 5. Although the running gear, lower hull and some of the detail parts are from the original boxing, most of this kit is new or modified. Moulded in dark yellow, Tamiya’s 1:35 scale T-55 Enigma comprises approximately 291 plastic parts, four large polythene caps, ten small polythene caps, one small sheet of vinyl mesh and two fulllength flexible vinyl tracks. Three of the sprues, including the turret, plus the upper hull are brand new. The cast texture and weld beads are more prominent on this turret than on earlier releases. Options include covered or uncovered mantlet and poseable hatches. Plenty of mounted jerry cans are supplied for turret and fender stowage, while the .50 cal and two .30 cal machine guns are well detailed. All the parts, whether from 2002 or 2013, are moulded to the same outstanding level of quality. The suspension features separate swing arms, so the wheels may be posed on uneven terrain if the modeller wishes. The road wheels, idler wheels and drive sprockets are held in place with polythene caps. I was a little surprised that Tamiya did not take the opportunity to offer a set of link and length tracks with this
The one-piece full length flexible vinyl tracks.
new kit. The vinyl tracks are well detailed, accurate, fast to install and they may be glued with regular plastic cement; but with the full top track run exposed on this model, some may prefer individual link tracks. Fortunately there are plenty of options available for replacements - Modelkasten and Friulmodel being the best - if you prefer an alternative to the flexible vinyl tracks. Vinyl mesh is supplied for the grilles on the engine deck. The large external fuel drums from previous Tamiya T-55 kits have been replaced by a stowage box on this version. The engine deck appears to be a Russian production pattern, so break out your references to see what style was used on the particular vehicle you will be modelling. The gun barrel is broken down into left and right halves with an end piece. In addition to the original Soviet crew figure, Tamiya has also included two well sculpted Israeli tankers for the turret hatches. I particularly like the guy with the beard and the sunglasses! Markings are supplied for one vehicle. Tamiya’s Tiran is a logical development of their excellent T-55 kit, and should prove to be just as easy and enjoyable to build as its predecessor. I wonder what Tamiya has in mind next for the T-55 family? ■
Thanks to Tamiya for the sample www.tamiya.com Tamiya kits are distributed in the UK by The Hobby Company Limited www.hobbyco.net
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D75046 Dragon Kits are distributed in the UK by The Hobby Company Limited, Knowlhill, Milton Keynes, MK5 8PG See the full Dragon range at www.hobbyco.net Find us on facebook Dragon models are available from all good model shops search Plastic Kits UK
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