2016 july food & wine magazine

Tajarin with Grilled Kale Pesto Active 1 hr 45 min Total 2 hr 45 min; Serves 6 to 8 PASTA

2½ cups 00 flour (see Note), plus more for dusting ¾ cup kamut flour Kosher salt 1 8 large egg yolks 1 large egg 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil PESTO

1/2 cup pecans ½ lb. Tuscan kale, stemmed 1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing 3 marinated white anchovy fillets 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 small garlic clove ¼ cup finely grated pecorino cheese, plus shaved pecorino for serving Kosher salt and pepper Chive flowers, for garnish

1. Make the pasta In a large bowl, whisk both flours with a generous pinch of salt and make a well in the center. Add the egg yolks, whole egg, olive oil and 1 tablespoon of water. Using a fork, gradually whisk the flours into the wet ingredients until a shaggy dough forms. Scrape the dough out onto a very lightly floured work surface and knead until stiff but smooth, about 5 minutes. Wrap in plastic and let rest at room temperature until soft and relaxed, 30 minutes to 1 hour.

2. Divide the dough into 4 pieces and work with 1 piece at a time; keep the rest covered. Press the dough to flatten. Using a pasta machine, starting at the widest setting, run the dough through successively narrower settings until you reach the second to thinnest; the dough should be a scant 1/8 inch thick. Cut the pasta sheet into 10-inch lengths, lay them on a lightly floured work surface and generously dust with 00 flour. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough.

3. Working with 1 sheet at a time, loosely fold the pasta over itself

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3 or 4 times like a ribbon. Using a very sharp knife, cut across the folds into 1/8-inch-wide noodles.

Uncoil the tajarin and toss with flour. Transfer to a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining sheets of pasta.

4. Make the pesto Preheat the oven to 375°. Spread the pecans in a pie plate and toast for 7 minutes, until golden. Let cool, then coarsely chop.

5. Set up an ice bath. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch the kale until barely tender, about 2 minutes.

Drain; transfer to the ice bath.

Drain again and pat dry.

THE OBSESSIVE

6. Light a grill and oil the grate.

Spread the kale on the grate and grill over high heat, turning occasionally, until charred in spots, about 3 minutes. Let cool slightly, then coarsely chop. In a blender, combine the kale with the anchovies, lemon juice, garlic, half of the toasted pecans and the ¼ cup of pecorino. With the machine on, gradually add the 1½ cups of olive oil and puree until smooth. Season generously with salt and pepper.

EMMER & RYE, AUSTIN @emmerandrye In every ingredient, Kevin Fink sees the potential to create a brilliant new pasta. For instance, pickled beets are an opportunity to mix the brine into the dough.

Fink first fell in love with pasta in Italy; then he staged at the Noma test kitchen in Copenhagen and began experimenting. Now, at his restaurant, he uses up to 15 kinds of grain to create pastas like tajarin with a superb grilled kale pesto. 51 Rainey St., Suite 110; emmerandrye.com.

7. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente, about 1 minute.

Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.

8. Wipe out the saucepan and add the pesto to it. Cook over moderate heat, stirring, until just hot, about 2 minutes. Add the pasta along with ½ cup of the reserved cooking water and toss until hot and evenly coated with pesto, about 2 minutes.

Add a little more pasta water if necessary. Transfer the tajarin to shallow bowls. Top with shaved pecorino, chive flowers and the remaining chopped pecans. Serve right away.

NOTE 00 flour is available at

specialty food markets and from kingarthurflour.com.

MAKE AHEAD The tajarin can be

prepared earlier in the day and kept uncovered at room temperature. It may require additional cooking time. The pesto can be refrigerated overnight.

Plate by Felt+Fat; fork by Mepra from TableArt.

MY FAVORITE GRAIN IS EMMER. WHEN IT’S YOUNG IT TASTES GRASSY; WHEN IT’S OLDER THE FLAVOR IS RICHER.”

WINE Herb-inflected Sangio-

vese: 2014 Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino.

BEST NEW CHEFS 16

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

THE EXPLORER SALARE, SEATTLE @salareseattle

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THE FRENCH LAUNDRY’S “FAST EDDIE” Once he graduated from Le Cordon Bleu cooking school in Orlando, Florida, Jordan scored an apprenticeship at The French Laundry in Napa Valley. “On my first day, the first person I saw was Thomas Keller. The man.” Jordan worked with butcher Mark Bodinet, who gave him the nickname Fast Eddie. “I started off as slow as the average intern, but once I was going, I got projects done fast. Still, you had to do things right. The techniques, the ideal of not just being a chef but also of being a great one: That’s what I learned at The French Laundry.”

SOUTHERN STUDENT Halibut with Einkorn, Morels and Tempura Ramps Total 1 hr 45 min; Serves 4 HALIBUT

¼ cup kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

I COULD HAVE COOKED WHAT I KNOW—SOUTHERN FOOD— BUT I WANTED TO WORK WITH TALENTED PEOPLE AND BE A WELL-ROUNDED CHEF.”

Four 5-oz. skinless halibut fillets 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice EINKORN

1 cup einkorn or wheat berries ½ yellow onion 1 bay leaf MORELS

Bowl by K.H. Würtz from Monc XIII; flatware by Mepra from TableArt.

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 lb. fresh morels, cleaned (4 cups) 1/4 cup finely chopped onion Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. chopped parsley 1 tsp. chopped thyme, plus thyme leaves for garnish PRESERVED LEMON VINAIGRETTE

1 preserved lemon, seeded and chopped (3 oz.)

3 Tbsp. water 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 3 Tbsp. muscatel vinegar or sherry vinegar TEMPURA RAMPS

Canola oil, for frying ¾ cup (4 oz.) all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp. cornstarch ½ Tbsp. kosher salt ½ Tbsp. baking powder Pinch of cayenne 1 cup chilled soda water 4 ramps, trimmed

1. Make the halibut In a bowl, whisk 4 cups of water with the ¼ cup of salt. Add the halibut; refrigerate for 1 hour.

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BEST NEW CHEFS 18

2. Meanwhile, make the einkorn In a medium saucepan, combine the einkorn, onion and bay leaf with enough water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil and cook over moderate heat until tender, about 30 minutes.

Drain and transfer to a bowl; discard the onion and bay leaf.

3. Make the morels In a large skillet, heat the oil. Add the morels and onion and season with salt. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the morels are tender and dry, 8 minutes. Reserve half of the morels in a bowl; add the rest to the einkorn and stir in the parsley and chopped thyme.

Edouardo Jordan grew up in St. Petersburg, Florida, learning about Southern classics at his family’s table. Then, at the University of Florida, he became friends with fellow students from Haiti, Jamaica and Cuba. “Holy moly, it was a whole new universe of food,” he says. “My best friend, Jacques Clervil, was Haitian. I’d go to his house and he’d play video games and I’d hang out in the kitchen with his mother, watching her cook.”

the makin of a best new chef

4. Make the vinaigrette In a blender, puree all of the ingredients until smooth. Add ¼ cup of the vinaigrette to the einkorn, season with salt and mix well.

5. Preheat the oven to 425°. Line a baking sheet with parchment.

Remove the halibut from the brine and pat dry. Rub with the olive oil and season with salt.

Arrange on the sheet and bake for 8 minutes, until just cooked through but not browned. Drizzle with the lemon juice.

6. Meanwhile, fry the ramps In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 3 inches of oil to 350°. Set a rack over a baking sheet and line with paper towels. In a bowl, whisk all of the ingredients except the soda and ramps. Whisk in the cold soda to form a batter. Dip the ramps in the batter, letting the excess drip off. Fry the ramps in batches, turning, until crisp, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the paper towels to drain.

7. Spread the vinaigrette into bowls. Top with the einkorn and halibut. Garnish with the morels, ramps and thyme.

WINE Vibrant California Char-

donnay: 2014 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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CHARCUTERIE CRAFTSMAN After working the meat station at The French Laundry, Jordan decided to travel to Italy to study salumi. “I wanted to understand Old World traditions; we don’t have many of our own traditions in America,” he says. He ended up at Al Vèdel, a renowned restaurant and salumeria in Colorno, outside Parma. “I spent mornings making culatello, coppa and pancetta; at night I worked the line in the kitchen and learned how to create epic pasta.”

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SEATTLE VIRTUOSO “The Salare menu is a beautiful smorgasbord,” says Jordan.

As an ode to Southern cooking, he serves corn bread as part of his bread service and pork trotters and collards as a small plate. His masterful spaghetti with razor clams, squid ink and coconut milk evokes three key influences: his Haitian best friend, his French Laundry experience and his pasta training in Italy. 2404 NE 65th St.; salarerestaurant.com.