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SOME THINGS NEVER CHANGE...

To celebrate 100 years of Chanel N°5, we put five questions to Olivier Polge, Chanel’s in-house perfume creator.

CHANEL N°5 Parfum 30ml, $498. Opposite page: CHANEL N°5 Parfum 30ml, $498, N°5 Eau de Parfum Spray 100ml, $249, N°5 L’Eau Eau de Toilette Spray 100ml, $249, N°5 Eau Première Spray 100ml, $249, and N°5 Eau de Toilette Spray 100ml, $205. HOW DO YOU EXPLAIN THE LONGEVITY OF CHANEL N°5? Nº5 arose from this opulent composition of flowers that complement one another without any single one really being identifiable. That is why it is considered an abstract fragrance. The way that aldehydes were used in proportions that enhanced the natural ingredients was incredibly modern. Its longevity, and its success, can be explained in large part by its abstract nature and this mystery. But that is not all, because for 100 years Chanel has also had the intelligence to look after Nº5 as if it were a new fragrance, in terms of the formula itself and the work that goes into its image, which keeps Nº5 forever rooted in its era. WHAT ROLE DO RAW MATERIALS PLAY IN N°5? The standards of this fragrance make it inimitable. In one bottle of Nº5 Parfum, there are more than 1000 flowers. Some ingredients come from France, but others from much farther away – a rare thing 100 years ago. In creating Nº5, Chanel developed a true fragrance savoir-faire, and monitors the entire value chain from flower to bottle. Part of my job is to preserve Nº5. All throughout the year, we make sure to acquire all of its qualities: citruses at the beginning of the year, then orange blossoms, roses in May, jasmine in September, ylang-ylang several times a year. It requires vigilance, a job that is rooted in history. I have the 1921 formula, handwritten by Ernest Beaux, in the safe. WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FASHION AND FRAGRANCE? Gabrielle Chanel had the intuition to turn perfume into a fashion accessory. When she had the idea for Nº5, fashion and fragrance were two separate worlds. She, a dressmaker, was the one who decided to bring them together. Because of this, I am always influenced by fashion. There is no clearly defined bridge, but a state of mind, a style of life in each of our different fields, which are intertwined. The complexity of Nº5 is a powerful creative act. In fragrance, like in fashion, we do not copy nature; we always try to transform it through construction. HOW CAN N°5 BE BOTH PRESERVED AND MADE TO EVOLVE? Nº5 has not lost any of its modernity. It is still distinguishable from all other fragrances. Nevertheless, reinterpretations allow us to situate Nº5 in this day and age, as well as to make way for new uses. Originally, Nº5 was a very concentrated and very precious parfum, of which just a few drops were worn behind each ear. An appetite for more generous fragrance use calls for new formulations, textures and creative acts that introduce variety. Because the identity of Nº5 is so strong, it is easy to play with. When I had the idea for Nº5 L’Eau, I had elements essential to Nº5 at my disposition, which took me towards tones that were more sparkling, lighter. This exercise in reinterpretation allows us to express another side to the signature of Nº5 and to view it through a new prism. We always begin with the same Nº5 structure, but the raw materials allow us to bring something else to light. WHAT DOES N°5 SAY ABOUT THE WOMEN WHO WEAR IT? Nº5 reflects Gabrielle Chanel’s personal life story. And yet, Nº5 resonates with all kinds of personalities and cultures. Describing the fragrance might better help us grasp the woman who wears it. Femininity, elegance, refinement, a certain richness and that element of mystery are words that come to my mind. It is the fragrance of an emancipated woman, with assertive femininity. What we express with fragrance cannot be expressed in words; it says something about our personality, in the same way as the clothing that we wear or the manner in which we speak. We wear Nº5 for others, but also for ourselves – it is an act that helps one feel good about oneself. Nº5 is a wonderful signature of one’s personality. Everything Chanel is in Nº5. 