ARMANI’S NEXT CHAPTER

Mr Armani at work in his atelier.

You’re one of fashion’s most distinguished leaders – a journalist from The New York Times referred to you as “almost presidential: wise, serene and comfortable in his role now as the reigning eminence of Milan fashion”. At what point did you recognise your own success? Those words are kind and fl attering. The reality, of course, is that like many creative people, I’m constantly driven to challenge myself and push myself to achieve new things. So although I’ve undoubtedly been more successful than I could ever have imagined back in 1975 when I started my own [namesake] label, I do not feel like I can rest on my laurels. Success for me is really about seeing people still enjoy my creations today in the way they enjoyed them when I began my company.

The Emporio Armani logo – the stylised eagle – was created in 1981. Where did the iconic logo come from and what does it really mean to you? It’s a funny story – I actually designed the logo by chance while I was speaking to someone on the phone and doodling. It comes from the idea of soaring high and proudly, up above the world, strong and purposeful. I suppose I felt it was appropriate for a new collection that required me to bravely challenge those who thought that a project like Emporio Armani was not something that a fashion designer like myself should embark on.

From industry to individuals, COVID-19 has made everyone recalibrate and reassess. You have been at the forefront of the coronavirus response in Italy. How has the pandemic impacted the Emporio Armani brand, and what opportunities has it provided for the industry at large? The pandemic has certainly made me think about what I would like to change. With regard to Emporio Armani, it has made me think about the importance of sustainability in a collection that is meant for those with a youthful outlook; that customer really understands the need for us to reduce environmental impact. I have also realised the importance of beauty in our lives, and how we have been starved of this over the past year and a half. So perhaps slightly counterintuitively, while lockdown has seen a take-up of casual clothing as people spend more time at home, I anticipate that once we can socialise

From left: Emporio Armani AW20; a photoshoot featuring ‘Emporio’s Gang’; Emporio Armani AW20; a design from 1986. From left: Emporio Armani AW20; a ‘cinema’ photoshoot from the early 90s; a design from 1986.

again, people will want to dress up once more. Far from steering me towards an ever-increasing casual aesthetic, I’m looking at Emporio Armani being able to balance the sporty with the more sartorial.

When Emporio Armani was launched in 1981, it was a pioneer line recalling a concept of democratic fashion. What does a democratic approach to fashion look like for the brand today? Back in 1981, street style as we have come to know it was not really an acknowledged genre of dressing. Of course it existed, but it had not been codified as it has been today. Emporio Armani was truly unusual in that it was aimed at the growing generation of young, metropolitan people who defined themselves through their shared interests in music, sport, socialising and style. Today, of course, the fashion landscape is very different, but Emporio Armani’s values have not changed – it still stands for experimentation, the city, music, sports and youth. Your designs are made with care and to last, which suits our growing need for a more sustainable way of shopping. How can we further encourage sustainable change in the fashion arena? Interestingly, I feel like Emporio Armani was sustainable before the term was even coined, because at Emporio we have always created garments that overcome the idea of becoming dated in terms of style. But it goes further today, more literally, in the sustainable Emporio Armani capsule collection that is made from recycled, regenerated and organic materials. It’s worth noting that as well as the choice of more sustainable materials for this, I aim to use

“I’M CONSTANTLY

DRIVEN TO CHALLENGE

MYSELF TO innovative production techniques ACHIEVE NEW THINGS.” to help reduce the consumption of energy and water. Each garment in this collection is fully traceable, too, thanks to the QR code on its label through which you can find extra detail about it. Generally, we need to look at how we can improve sustainability in how we create and make products, how well we design those products to last (in terms of aesthetics as well as quality), how we run our offices and how we construct and run our stores. We need to make less and make better, and the consumer, too, must start to consume more responsibly. Community and supporting emerging talent are important to the Emporio Armani brand. What do you look for in up-and-coming artists? Is there anyone on your radar that we should know about? Emporio Armani, with its youthful spirit, is particularly well placed to collaborate and work with young talent. Interestingly, because I was not able to host a show for the Emporio Armani spring/summer 2021 collection, instead I created a video entitled Building Dialogues, in which I blended the musical and visual art of Frédéric Sanchez with the architecture of my headquarters in via Bergognone. In the video, the Emporio Armani collection is worn by artists from worlds that have always been linked to the brand’s broad community. The whole project was conceived not only to show the collection but also to act as a symbolic gesture in support of those arts – music, dance and acting – which have been particularly affected by the prolonged lockdown period and are still struggling today. 

P.E NATION ‘Upfield’ top, $149, ‘Upfield’ pants, $179, and ‘Backline’ socks, $39. VALENTINO ‘Shegoes’ sneakers, $1100.

BONDI BORN ‘Noah’ crop, $140, and ‘Luna’ leggings, $180. LANVIN Cross-body flap bag, $1899.

C&M CAMILLA AND MARC ‘Austin’ crew (tied around shoulders), $220, ‘Nelson’ crew, $200, and ‘Austin’ shorts, $160. BALENCIAGA Track sandals, $1190.

TOAST SOCIETY ‘Jupiter’ puffer, $219. NUDE LUCY ‘Nude Active’ crop, $49.95, and bike shorts, $59.95. Gloves, stylist’s own.

BEC + BRIDGE ‘Taylor’ knit crop, $130, and skirt, $200. ANINE BING ‘Josie’ tank, $215. P.E NATION ‘Goal Side’ leggings, $119. ALEXANDER McQUEEN ‘Tread Slick’ sneakers, $950. BABY-G ‘Duo Series’ watch, $269. FENDI Travel tumbler, $850.

DION LEE Central braid cami, $390, and eyelet parachute pants, $590.

His|Her Eau de Parfum 50ml, $99.

‘Amaia’ shirt, $420, and skirt, $400. AMBER SCEATS ‘Taylor’ earrings, $189.

‘Dilkon’ dress, $280. ANINE BING ‘Felicia’ boots, $869. SAINT VALENTINE ‘Picasso’ hoop earrings, $135.

CARLA ZAMPATTI ‘Pick of the Crop’ jacket, $969, and ‘Feminine Charm’ pants, $599. MIMCO ‘Innate’ hoop earrings, $99.95.

‘Amber Jersey Tempo’ gown, $695.

‘Ironside’ trench, $750, ‘Pilot’ pants, $350, and ‘Virgo’ cardigan, $370. AMBER SCEATS ‘Nahla’ earrings, $219, and ‘Perry’ bracelet, $189.

Shot on location at Crown Sydney, crownsydney.com.au

Be mesmerised by this season’s most-wanted accessories.

White shades are as versatile as black, but so as black, but so much more fun. much more fun.

ANINE BING ‘Sedona’ ‘Sedona’ sunglasses, $280. sunglasses, $280. HLSK ‘Clara ‘Clara Comet II’ studs, $250. Comet II’ studs, $250.

‘Cady’ jacket, $1400. ‘Cady’ jacket, $1400.

Mix creamy neutrals and gold chains to master two of the season’s biggest trends.

ELLEME ‘Vague’ bag, $800. RELIQUIA ‘Ronnie’ necklace (worn as a bracelet), $199. MIMCO ‘Innate’ ring set, $99.95. BEC + BRIDGE ‘Coyote’ dress, $265. A classic timepiece will add instant polish.

From top: MIDO ‘Ocean Star’ watch, $1475. TISSOT ‘Everytime’ watch, $400. RADO ‘Florence’ watch, $1525. ANINE BING ‘Layla’ cardigan, $415.

AJE ‘Assemble’ drop earrings, $175, and logo and fob necklace, $115.

‘Birthstone II’ necklace, $200, ‘Mini Key & Padlock II’ necklace, $290, and ‘Florence II’ ring, $480. ELKA

‘Frame’ top, $149.

‘Mini Keshi’ earrings, $95, ‘Midnight’ pearl choker, $180, and ‘Relic’ chain necklace, $90. ANINE BING ‘Lindsey’ top (worn throughout), $330.

‘Taylor’ earrings, $189, ‘Rue’ necklace, $199, ‘Lotus’ necklace, $199, ‘Vernon’ ring, $149, and ‘Perry’ bracelet, $189.

‘Bebe’ top, $160.

‘Zora’ boots, $229.95, and ‘Bremmie’ handbag, $119.95. SHONA JOY balloon sleeve jumpsuit, $340.

From top: DEADLY PONIES DEADLY PONIES ‘Mr Minimese’ bag, $429, and ‘Mr Minimese’ bag, $429, and Quiatatur abo. Ipsuntin nostruntibus ‘Mr Siamese’ bag, $459. SAINT VALENTINE ‘Relic’ chain bracelet, $70. ‘Relic’ chain bracelet, $70. quis dolupta.

Exclusive

‘Overture’ button-down shirt, $225, ‘The Breeze’ studs, $175, and ‘The Grand Chain’ choker, $175.

MIMCO ‘Sacred’ ‘Sacred’ mules, $229, ‘Bloom’ mules, $229, ‘Bloom’ cross-body bag, $349, cross-body bag, $349, ‘Earth Gazer’ earrings, ‘Earth Gazer’ earrings, $129, ‘Earth Gazer’ duo $129, ‘Earth Gazer’ duo necklace, $199, ‘Earth necklace, $199, ‘Earth Gazer’ ring (left hand, Gazer’ ring (left hand, middle finger), $99.95, middle finger), $99.95, ‘Innate’ ring set (left hand, ‘Innate’ ring set (left hand, ring finger), $99.95, ‘Earth ring finger), $99.95, ‘Earth Gazer L’ ring (right hand), Gazer L’ ring (right hand), $99.95, and ‘Earth Gazer’ $99.95, and ‘Earth Gazer’ cu , $169. cu , $169. SCANLAN THEODORE Keyhole THEODORE Keyhole dress, $650. dress, $650.

Put your most fashionable foot forward with a square-toed sandal.

103 JONES SPRING 2021

From left: TONY BIANCO ‘Lilly’ heels, $199.95. ALOHAS ‘Prickly’ heels, $229. ALIAS MAE ‘Esme’ heels, $219.95. From top: DEPARTMENT OF FINERY ‘Bella’ sneakers, $319.95. TOMMY HILFIGER ‘Signature’ sneakers, $179. P448 ‘John’ sneakers, $459.

‘Concert’ bubble dress (limited stock available), $1350. RELIQUIA ‘Janelle’ earrings, $119.

‘Tempo’ dress (limited stock available), $1650.

‘Taylor’ earrings, $189.

AJE ‘Freecycle’ dress, $425, and mini hoop earrings, $85.

KITX ‘Crush’ dress, $545. AJE ‘Utopia’ pearl crawler earrings, $195.

ACLER ‘Meadow’ dress, $420. YUZEFI ‘Dolores’ embossed leather bag, $920. KIRSTIN ASH ‘Cascade’ hoop earrings, $149. AJE Mini hoop earrings, $85.

‘Joy’ sundress, $599, ‘Harmony’ mid-heel sandals, $429, and ‘Descendant’ belt, $199. AJE ‘Assemble’ drop earrings, $175. ALEMAIS ‘Halcyon’ dress, $495. SOL SANA ‘Nova’ heels, $189.95.

‘Amalita’ drop earrings, $339. AMBER SCEATS ‘Nahla’ hoop earrings (worn throughout), $219.

CAMILLA Raglan-sleeve shirtdress, $799, and square scarf (large), $279.

WITTNER ‘Holler’ boots, $260.

KIRSTIN ASH ‘Botanica’ hoop earrings, $149. CAMILLA Gathered panel dress, $799. AMBER SCEATS ‘Taylor’ earrings, $189.

‘Olympia’ dress, $420.

‘Penny’ mules, $599.

KARA Bike wallet, $625. CHRISTIE NICOLAIDES ‘Amalita’ drop earrings, $359.

PLEASURE STATE ‘Kenzie’ contour balconette bra, $69.95, and Brazilian briefs, $39.95. KIRSTIN ASH ‘Essence’ earrings, $139, and ‘Desert Sun’ coin necklace (both worn throughout), $149.

DITA VON TEESE ‘Vedette’ underwire bra, $89.95.

KIRSTIN ASH ‘True North’ coin necklace (worn throughout), $159.

‘Seductive Comfort’ plunge bra, $89.95, and bikini brief, $39.95.

SIMONE ‘Suzanne’ soft-cup bra, $89.95, and bikini briefs, $54.95.

ME. BY BENDON ‘Love Me’ underwire bra, $74.95, and thong briefs, $29.95.

CHANTELLE ‘Alto’ memory bra, $129, and shorty, $69.95.