Page 1

the design awards

roBErT PAUL WINS

2017 jewellery design awards with Mercedia rose diaMond cocktail ring

meet the jda

entrants & winners

details page 58

the ring thing

tickled pink pearl-fection JDA MAJor SPoNSorS auscert bastian inverun breuning olÉ watches

cover jewellery // robert paul jewellery photography // tandy rowley

eXPress yourself declaring a union opal tales

engagement

ring advice

find your jeweller


Telephone 612 9247 5630 Open Seven Days


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Auscert was created to provide an approachable, reliable and local Diamond Certificate to the Australian diamond buying public. After a decade, Auscert stands as Australia’s largest and most respected Diamond Certificate. This success has been achieved through the backing and continued support of the Australian jewellery industry, and many happy and satisfied engaged couples. Auscert is unique in many ways. It has set a new benchmark in diamond grading excellence. It has one of the world’s strictest cut grade parameters and was the world’s first Diamond Certificate which refused to certify low quality (cut) grade diamonds. Insist on an Auscert Certified Diamond from your jeweller.

For more information visit www.sgtl.com.au call (03) 9639 8125 or email info@sgtl.com.au


Phone (03) 9670 3451 By appointment only. #904 - 227 Collins St Melbourne,VIC 3000


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INA BARRY GOLD & SILVERSMITH STUDIO 204, 20-22 MCKILLOP STREET, MELBOURNE BY APPOINTMENT 0409 39 37 38 www.inabarryjewellery.com ina@inabarryjewellery.com


For further information: OSJAG PTY LTD PO Box 4420 North Rocks NSW 2151 +612 9630 6619 admin@osjag.com www.osjag.com bastian inverun Australia


// EDITIOn 15

FROM THE EDITOR Welcome to the 15th annual edition of Jewellery. The following pages are filled with carefully crafted creations, show-stopping jewels and all the knowledge you’ll need to nurture a deep appreciation for fine jewellery and gems. For this major milestone edition we launch the Jewellery Design Awards (page 58) a new national competition open to all Australian jewellers, and in its inaugural year we're excited to announce that we have received sixty entries from across Australia and the diversity in design is a diamond dealer's delight. Our entries run the full gamut of artistry and creativity, highlighting not only technical precision and adherence to design fundamentals but also delving deeply into the imagination and inventiveness we've come to expect from Australia's world-class jewellery design industry. Researching Home Grown Gems (page 42) we put the spotlight on some of Australia's own unique gems. From the finest opals, stunning pearls to

exquisite Argyle Pink Diamonds, we're celebrating the jewels of our sunburnt land. We caught up with master jeweller Robert Paul (page 236) to uncover the latest trend in diamond jewellery and the unique service he is offering to his many clients. For our 15th edition our team had the opportunity to get our hands on some of the year’s most exquisite jewellery pieces (page 180) with some stunning photography by Anthony Masci and Tandy Rowley. Whether you’re building up your knowledge base to invest in an important piece, keeping abreast of current trends or simply wanting to indulge, we’ve designed this issue with you in mind. Our magazine wouldn’t be complete without our full-proof jewellers guide. We bring you the names and creative geniuses behind the illustrious jewellery that adorns our pages so you can find your perfect jeweller.

Tara Rigney Group Editor

Published by Media Ink 85 Old Warrandyte Road Donvale VIC 3111 Publisher Chris MacLeod GrouP editor Tara Rigney design@mediaink.com.au contributinG writers Simon Garner Bianca Mangion

//16

GraPhic desiGner Tara Rigney design@mediaink.com.au advertisinG Chris MacLeod Mobile: 0438 329 008 chris@mediaink.com.au Financial controller Jun Teng accounts@mediaink.com.au online www.mediaink.com.au

distribution Distributed by Gordon & Gotch, Jewellery is available nationally at newsagents and specialty retailers.


Jewellery // Catanach’s Jewellers

// edition 15

Contents Intelligence

18

Gold Digger

26

The Finest of Them All

48

Did You Know

28

Gem Of The Sea

50

Diamond Details

30

Express Yourself

52

Metalwork

34

Creative Heights

54

A Rose In Time

36

Pearl Affair

224

Colour, Carat, Clarity, Cut

38

Emeralds To Enthrall

228

Go Figure

40

Surprising Sapphires

230

Home Grown Gems

42

The Golden Rule

232

Declaring A Union In Style

44

Franco Jewellers

234

Stealing The Show

46

A Diamond Connoisseur

236


Jewellery Craftsmanship

65 Toorak Rd, South Yarra . Victoria, Australia 3141 . Tel +61 3 9866 4983 www.iansharp.com.au


Jewellery // Catanach’s Jewellers

// edition 15

Contents Jewellery Design Awards

20

Arkion Boutique Investments

60

Australian Chocolate Diamonds

62

Creations Jewellers

64

Danny Lee Designs

72

De Klerk Jewellers

82

Ian Sharp Jewellery Craftsmanship

92

Ina Barry Gold and Silver Smith

94

Phillip Schmidt - Platinumsmith

140

Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery

142

Renee Hudson - Legassick

150

Robert Paul

154

Samantha Kelly Jewellery

156

Silvermist Studio

162

Xennox Diamonds

168

Jason Ree

102

Jewel Gallery

JWG

110

1

180

Katharina Mathews

122

2

190

Laura Springbett

124

3

196

Leonards Jewellers

126

4

200

Mark Evans Fine Jewellery

128

5

208

Melissa Baldock

136

6

216

Minzenmay

138


Jewellery Craftsmanship

65 Toorak Rd, South Yarra . Victoria, Australia 3141 . Tel +61 3 9866 4983 www.iansharp.com.au


in the

- - - -

Image // Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Shirley Temple’S Blue DiamonD GoeS To aucTion Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York was led by a 9.54-carat Fancy Deep Blue diamond ring owned by Shirley Temple. Shirley’s father purchased the diamond ring in early 1940, around the time of her 12th birthday as well as the premiere of her film The Blue Bird. The traditional cushion-cut stone remained in Shirley Temple’s collection until her passing in 2014 and will be offered for auction in its original Art Deco-inspired setting. “It’s remarkable to have one stone illustrate the dramatic shift in attitude towards coloured diamonds over the course of the last century. Today we recognise these stones as the definition of rarity, and they are eagerly soughtafter in our current market for that very reason,” says Gary Schuler, co-chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery Americas.

19Th cenTury

BlinG

Gold found in the Ballarat goldfields during the gold rush dazzled the public at the Museum of Australian Democracy at Eureka’s recent exhibition 19th Century Bling. Featuring over 150 pieces of rare jewellery made from gold discovered during this period, the exhibit will trace the story of this subversive jewellery around Australia and overseas. Jewellery // Courtesy of Trevor Hancock

22

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- - - - - - - - - - - - -

miGlio DeSiGner Jewellery launcheS in auSTralia Renowned South African brand, Miglio Designer Jewellery, is now available in Australia. The collection features a distinctive array of vivid colours and intricate designs, created for women seeking distinctive and interchangeable accessories. Many necklaces can be worn long or short and enhanced with signature clip-on pendants. Bracelets can be extended to create couture neckpieces, and earrings can be customised with designer charms. For stockist enquires visit www.miglio.com

larGeST Fancy ViViD pink DiamonD SolD aT GeneVa aucTion The Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale ended with the $28,523,925 sale of a Fancy Vivid Pink diamond of approximately 16.08 carats, the largest cushion-shaped diamond of its type to come to auction, setting a new auction record for any vivid pink diamond. The stone, which is set as a ring with a double row of pavé set white diamonds that surround and highlight the main stone, with a third row of small pink diamonds underneath, was bought by a private Asian buyer who named it ‘Sweet Josephine’ immediately after the sale. “Selling the largest vivid pink cushion-shaped diamond to come to auction is a privilege and to sell it for a new world auction record prize is a strong indication that there is still demand from clients from the end of the market for these truly precious stones,” said Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Christie’s Jewellery Department.

Jewellery // Courtesy of Christie’s

// in The loop

- - - -


2012 2010 2010 2009 2008

diAMond cAtegory winner peArl cAtegory finAlist diAMond cAtegory finAlist diAMond guild AustrAliA finAlist plAtniuM cAtegory finAlist

AwArd winning designers And resident jewellers

style ArcAde MAnukA cAnberrA 6295 1763 www.creationsjewellers.com.au Instagram Social Icon

@creationsjewellers share’n is care’n @mrkylemac


in the

- - -

Image // Courtesy of The Perth Mint

// in the loop

- - - -

- - - - -

Perth-based company Lucapa Diamond Company has uncovered a diamond in West Africa worth more than $20 million. The massive 404-carat diamond is the largest diamond ever found in Angola. “It’s the biggest diamond ever recorded from the country of Angola and it’s the biggest diamond ever recovered by an Australian diamond miner,” said Lucapa chairman Miles Kennedy. The white diamond is considered to be of excellent quality.

GolD plateD Image // Courtesy of Goldgenie

samsunG Galaxy

24

Goldgenie have a history of pioneering the art of goldplating cutting edge smart phones and are now preparing to launch a 24k gold embellished flagship Galaxy S7 and S7 Edge to their stable of luxury devices. The luxurious gold finish complements the Samsung’s sleek design and is guaranteed to be a hit with Android fans who value unique style as much as its flagship features. Goldgenie’s products have been a hit with celebrities such as Will Smith, the Beckhams and P. Diddy.

- - - - - -

- - - - - - - - - - - - -

Golden love The Perth Mint transformed molten gold into a solid gold heart to celebrate Valentine’s Day 2016. Performed in the Mint’s original 1899 Melting House, two hundred ounces of pure gold was heated to the searing temperature of 1,200 degrees Celsius, before being hand-poured into a graphite mould in which the molten metal cooled to form a gleaming heart of gold. Cathy Anza, Manager of The Perth Mint Shop and Exhibition said, “The Perth Mint is well known as WA’s ‘Heart of Gold’, with many couples purchasing their wedding jewellery here and choosing our historic site as the location to have photographs taken on their big day.”

De Beers millennium Jewel 4 set to auCtion Sotheby’s Hong Kong Spring Sales auction was headlined by the largest Oval Fancy Blue diamond ever to appear at auction. The De Beers Millennium Jewel 4 is a rare and superb Oval Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Blue diamond weighing 10.10 carats and will hold court at the Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Spring Sale. This diamond is the only oval-shaped stone among the twelve rare diamonds that form the world-renowned De Beers Millennium Jewels collection. The collection has been exhibited in New York, London, Geneva, Singapore and Hong Kong. “Blue diamonds of any intensity of colour are amongst the rarest of all gems. Highly saturated blue diamonds over ten carats combined with an Internally Flawless clarity grade are extremely rare. There have been fewer and fewer new rough diamonds discovered over the last decade that produce this colour. Most of the recent diamonds offered for sale in this category are coming from private collections, not diamond mines,” explained Tom Moses, Executive Vice President and Chief Research and Laboratory Officer GIA.

Image // Copyright Sotheby’s

404-Carat DiamonD DisCovery


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parev ad j#15.indd 44

21/01/2017 8:13 pm


// INTELLIGENCE

GOLD DIGGER Jewellery digs the dirt on some knowledge– worthy nuggets.

1.

More than half of all humanity’s gold has been extracted in the past 50 years. Now the world’s richest deposits are fast being depleted, and new discoveries rare. Most of the gold left to mine exists as traces buried in remote and fragile corners of the globe.

2.

Gold is so rare that the world pours more steel in an hour than it has poured gold since the beginning of

Jewellery // Kennedy Jewellers Image // Tandy Rowley

recorded history.

Jewellery // Ina Barry Gold & Silversmith Image // Tord Johnston

3.

52 percent of gold that is mined is used for jewellery, 18 percent constitutes official holdings (as in central banks of nations), 16 percent takes the form of investments, 12 percent finds industrial uses, leaving two percent unaccounted for.

4.

Gold is so pliable that it can be made into sewing thread. An ounce

5.

Gold is chemically inert, which explains why it never rusts and does

of gold can be stretched over 80 kilometres.

not cause skin irritation. If gold jewellery irritates the skin, it is likely it was mixed with another metal.

6.

The gold mining town of Kalgoorlie has the world's richest

7.

The largest gold nugget ever found is the ‘Welcome

square mile of gold-bearing earth.

Stranger’, discovered by John Deason and Richard Oates in Australia in 1869. It is said the nugget amounted to 2,380 ounces and was found just two inches below the ground surface.

8.

Gold has been discovered on every continent on earth.

9.

Gold melts at 1064.43 degrees centigrade. It can conduct both heat and electricity and it never rusts.

10. India is the biggest consumer of gold in the world. Jewellery // Xennox Diamond World Image // Tandy Rowley 26


323-325 Little Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 9654 1514 Shop 24-25 The Block Arcade, 282 Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 8590 8560 sales@keshett.com.au www.keshett.com.au


// did you know

DiD You Know Gemstones are alluring and magical as they partake in the ultimate mystery of the world – light. As with any formidable stone, comes interesting trivia that could pique any gem lover’s interest. Take a journey down the road of history and learn more about these fascinating works of nature.

Jewellery // Keshett Jewellers Image // Anthony Masci

28

Prized since the ancient times,

a fine emerald can be more expensive than a high quality diamond of the same carat weight. Egyptian emeralds were introduced to the world over 4000 years ago. During Cleopatra’s reign, she claimed the emerald mines as her own, being that it was her favourite gem, and often adorning herself in lavish emerald jewellery. In fact, the verdant sparkle of the gem has captured the fancy of many rulers, including Alexander the Great and Emperor Nero. Royal houses would adorn their crowned leaders with the power and beauty of this rare gem.

men were the first to wear jewellery as a status symbol and as good luck amulets to aid them in battle. Aaron, the first high priest of Hebrews, wore 12 gemstones (representing the 12 tribes of Israel) in his silver breastplate. It is thought that this is when birthstones originated.

cOmmercial

enterPrises

were formed to openly market the sale of jewellery. The firms of Faberge, Cartier, Tiffany and other great jewellery companies have their beginnings and roots in the Industrial Revolution.

One majOr sOurce of design originated in the Victorian age of England. It was under this influence that jewellery turned from nature to solid, more dignified designs and richer, heavier stones. By 1860, women were wearing hoopskirts, shawls and long sleeves and jewellery coordinated with large pins worn at the throat, long earrings, heavy bracelets and heavily worked gold rings. When Albert died in 1861, mourning became a national pastime and mourning jewellery went along with the trend. Black onyx and jet were worn constantly.

the largest diamOnd ever fOund was the Cullinan, which weighted 3106 carats (621 grams) and came from South Africa’s Premier mine in 1905. The Cullinan diamond was cut into nine large gems and 100 smaller stones and now forms part of the British Crown Jewels.

the industrial revOlutiOn

of the 19th century essentially created a jewellery market that was available to everyone. The middle class of a society could now purchase fine pieces of jewellery, and when imitation stones began flooding the market even those from working classes could afford a piece of jewellery.


323-325 Little Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 9654 1514 Shop 24-25 The Block Arcade, 282 Collins St, Melbourne 3000 Tel: +61 3 8590 8560 sales@keshett.com.au www.keshett.com.au


// did you know

diamond details A diAmond is An exquisite gemstone thAt needs no explAnAtion when it comes to beAuty And brilliAnce. with such beAuty, comes mystery, which is unfolded below.

1.

The word diamond comes from the Greek term ‘adamas’ which means ‘unconquerable’.

Jewellery // Rutherford

2.

There are several famous black diamonds. One of the most famous is the Black Orlov (also called ‘The Eye of Brahma’), a black diamond weighing 67.5 carats. According to legend, the diamond brings death to anyone who owns it, and it has been blamed for the death of two Russian princesses.

3. 4.

Pink diamonds are placed in the category of the most concentrated form of wealth on earth

In Australia, the first diamond was found by a gold prospector near Bathurst, New South Wales, in 1851.

5.

A diamond carat differs from a gold karat. The gold karat indicates purity where pure gold is 24 karats. One diamond carat, for mined or synthetics diamonds, is 200 milligrams. The word carat derives from the carob bean. Gem dealers used to balance their scales with carob beans because these beans all have same weight.

6.

A blood diamond, also known as a conflict diamond, is a diamond mined in a war zone and sold to fund terrorism and insurgence. Jewellery // Xennox Diamonds Image // Tandy Rowley

30


152 Main Street Mornington Victoria 3931

03 5975 2439

minzenmay.com.au


// did you know

diamond details A diAmond is An exquisite gemstone thAt needs no explAnAtion when it comes to beAuty And brilliAnce. with such beAuty, comes mystery, which is unfolded below.

1.

The term ‘total carat weight’ (t.c.w) is used when more than one gemstone is used in a piece of jewellery. For example, a pair of diamond solitaire earrings is described in t.c.w to refer to the total mass of the diamonds in both earrings as opposed to a single earring.

Jewellery // Calleija Image // Tandy Rowley

2.

Diamonds are the most popular of all the world’s gemstones.

3.

Champagne diamonds are naturally coloured diamonds that are produced in a wide range of colours from light straw to rich cognac. Argyle diamonds created the following scale specifically for champagne diamonds. The diamonds are graded on a C1- C7 colour scale. C1 and C2 represent light champagne, C3 and C4 medium champagne, and C5 and C6 dark champagne. The fancy cognac diamond is graded C7.

4.

Not all diamonds are white. Impurities lend diamonds a shade of blue, red, orange, yellow, green and even black. Vivid blue, green and pink mined diamonds are some of

Jewellery // Ian Sharp Image // Tord Johnston

the rarest.

32

5.

The first known source of diamonds was in India, where they were mined from alluvial gravel more than 4,000 years ago.

6.

Black diamonds are also called Carbonado. A name coined by Portuguese because of the diamond’s resemblance to porous charcoal.


Design, Manufacturing, repairs & restoration Shop 70B Doncaster Road North Balwyn Victoria 3104 ph/fx: 03 9859 1110 m: 0417 386 171 dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com

Design,www.dannyleedesigns.com Manufacturing, Repairs &


// INTELLIGENCE

metal work Jewellery molds out the metals.

Jewellery // Minzenmay

GOLD Gold has long since been a precious metal, greatly valued by people all over the world. The purity of gold is measured in karats. Some countries mark gold with a three-digit number that tells you what percentage of gold an item contains. So for example, a piece of jewellery may have “750” indicated on it which means it has 750/1000 of gold which is GOLDEN TIP equivalent to 18Kt. Some people have Gold is quite simply one of the most Jewellery // Giulians allergies to nickel or other Image // Tandy Rowley Photography respected metals around because of its metals- if this is the case it’s timelessness, beauty and stable nature. Gold recommended to go for jewellery in its purest form doesn’t react with other with a higher content of goldelements to create the residue that builds up this has very little effect on its value. this is also more durable for and stains your skin. It’s also one of the most If you are after high quality, it's sterling silver we everyday wear. malleable and softest metals that can be molded turn to. Sterling silver is made up of approximately in nearly any way an artist wishes. 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. This won’t wear down Pure gold is not practical for everyday wear so to and gives off a brilliant shine which compliments any make it harder, less expensive or to add gemstones that may be set within it. colour, it’s usually mixed with other PLATINUM metals. For those of us whose budget enjoys an endless limit, we look to Yellow gold contains 50% platinum for our jewellery desires. Platinum is more precious than silver and 50% copper. gold and being an extremely rare metal can fetch very high prices White gold is alloyed with depending on its availability. An interesting fact to note is that if we nickel, zinc, copper, tin and were to pour all of the world’s platinum reservoirs into one olympic manganese. Most white gold is sized pool, it would only be deep enough to cover your ankles! Gold also plated with rhodium which on the other hand would have enough to fill in three of makes it harder and gives it its the same pools. sheen. Over time, depending on the amount the piece of jewellery is worn you may need to re-plate the rhodium which is a simple and relatively quick process. Pink or rose gold is mixed with 90% copper and 10% silver to give it that “rose” colouring.

SILVER TIP When buying silver, make sure you look for a registered trademark mark as well as the maker’s mark on the undersideall silver by federal law must have this mark to ensure its level of quality.

34

SILVER Breaking away from gold we find ourselves at silver’s doorstep. Pure silver has a hardness of 2.5 on the Mohs scale and is often used in jewellery as it’s relatively soft and malleable. Copper is usually mixed in to make it more durable although

Jewellery // Jason Ree

PLATINUM TIP Platinum’s non-corrosive nature also makes it perfect for long-lasting wear, though because it's used in almost pure form, it's rare and significantly more expensive than other metals.


Custom-made engagement rings and wedding bands, each uniquely designed and hand-crafted in our workshop with the assurance of exceptional workmanship. Find us online to see our expanding range. 1315 Mountain Hwy, The Basin VIC Ph: (03) 9762-6953 info@ralffischjewellery.com.au

www.ralffischjewellery.com.au


// INTELLIGENCE

A ROSE IN TIME Evoking warm tones that work well with all styles, rose gold is a metal full of character.

Jewellery // Jason Ree Image // Tandy Rowley Photography

What is it?

36

Rose gold is a mixture of yellow gold and copper alloy. The shades vary, depending on the ratio of yellow gold to copper. The more copper, the deeper the colour of the rose gold, while a softer shade is created when less copper is used.

history Rose gold jewellery has made some notable appearances throughout history. First was during the nineteenth century in Russia when the unfamiliar combination of copper and yellow gold was introduced. At the time it was commonly referred to as ‘Russian gold’ due to its popularity and fashion-appeal amongst Russians. The radiant toned metal became popular during the MidVictorian era, where the pink-hued jewellery was seen as a colour of romance and became the style of choice during this period. However, the most recognised time period for rose gold’s popularity was in the late 1920’s when renowned French jeweller, Cartier, released a signature piece of jewellery called the Trinity Band. This ring was made up of three entwined smaller bands:

one rose gold, one white gold and one yellow gold band linked together. During the war period, the government banned the use of platinum amongst civilians as it was being used for military purposes, and so rose gold’s distinctive reputation continued to soar and it quickly became the common alternative for jewellery pieces. It continued to flourish during the Retro Era between 1935 up until the 1950’s. The 90’s saw minimalism take hold and jewellery trends shifted to more black and white styles which mainly featured silver or white gold jewellery. However, the past few years have seen a resurgence in the popularity of rose gold.

ModErn day Perfect for use as the focus material or a fine feature contrasted against white gold or platinum, rose gold has become a favourite material to work with when designing new jewellery pieces. Its ability to add colour and soften any piece while highlighting diamonds and gems has led to its inclusion in many jewellery pieces.


H a n d c r a fted desi gner J ew elle ry

classy jewellers

Manufacturing

reModelling

repairs

shop 37 Burwood plaza, 42 railway parade, Burwood 2134 telephone: (02) 9744 5505 facsimile: (02) 9744 6892 website: www.classyjewellers.com.au


// INTELLIGENCE

Colour, Carat, Clarity, Cut Before you start out on your all-important search, it’s imperative you familiarise yourself with the four C’s of diamond dealing.

The quality over quantity principal also applies when putting a ring on it. For example, you could risk buying an enormous rock that may not have half the quality of a smaller diamond at the same price. So let’s cut to it!

Jewellery // Ian Sharp

COLOUR

38

When it comes to colour, less is more and the whiter the diamond, the better. Most diamonds within a reasonable price will range from white to yellow. Determined through a range of alphabets D, E and F refer to colourless (white) diamonds, while G, H, I and J are nearly colourless according to the GIA colour grades. A perfect white diamond should be crystal clear – the less yellow or brown streaks visible the more rare and valuable a diamond is.

CARAT A diamond’s weight is measured in carats (not to be confused with karat, which indicates gold’s purity). A carat is equivalent to a fifth of a gram and exactly 200 milligrams. They are weighed using a precision scale, as mere fractions of a carat can mean the difference between hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

CLARITY Clarity is the measure of the number of blemishes (external defects) and inclusions (internal defects) of a stone. An S11 or S12 diamond has inclusions or blemishes larger than a grain of salt when viewed under 10-power magnification. Whilst nearly all diamonds contain flaws, it’s important to determine there aren’t enough flaws to seriously lessen its value. Though on the positive, diamond flaws are as unique as a fingerprint and can be used as identifiers.

CUT The cut refers to the workmanship of a diamond and the manner in which it’s polished and shaped to give it its brilliance and fire. Not to be confused with a diamond’s shape, a stone’s cut or make refers to the number, placement and shape of the facets that create a finished diamond. A gem cutter sculpts the diamond’s many facets with geometric precision; symmetrically arranging them to affect the way light travels through the stone. A poorly cut diamond will ‘leak’ light out the back and some cutting faults can even make a diamond prone to breaking.


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Jewellery // Ian Sharp Image // Gazi Photography

// INTELLIGENCE

40


go figure Jewellery does the number crunch on some of the world’s most alluring gemstones and treasures.

58

150

1979

575

The diamond is 58 times harder than the next hardest mineral on earth, corundum, from which rubies and sapphires are formed.

The world’s largest diamond mine was discovered in 1979, to become the Argyle Diamond Mine in the rugged Kimberley region of Western Australia.

35.3

Petra Diamonds sold a 507-carat diamond for $35.3 million in 2010, breaking a record for the highest price ever paid for a rough diamond. The gem was purchased in a tender by Chow Tai Fook Jewelry Co Ltd in Hong Kong.

2,032

This is the tons of gold estimated demand on part of the jewellery industry worldwide in 2011.

302,500

The price of the world’s most expensive Barbie ever made. Leading Australian jeweller, Stefano Canturi was commissioned to custom design the doll, which featured an openwork variously cut diamond collar necklace, centering upon a square cut Fancy Vivid purplish pink Argyle diamond, weighing approximately 1.00 carat. ‘Barbie by Stefano Canturi’ sold for a record US $302, 500 to anonymous bidder in 2010, with all profits going to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

Natural diamonds were formed approximately three billion years ago, 150 kilometres beneath the earth’s surface.

Marco Polo gave the Arco Valley Pearl to Khubilai Khan, the emperor of China. It weighted 575 carats.

110.03

The Sun Drop Diamond is the largest known pearshaped Fancy Vivid yellow diamond in the world. Sold as part of the Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels Collection in 2011 for 10 million Swiss francs ($10.7 million), the gem weighs 110.03 carats and has a purity of VVS1, the highest colour grading for a yellow diamond by the GIA.

99

More than 99 per cent of diamonds are now from conflict free sources and traded under the UN-mandated Kimberley Process. The Kimberley Process requires that each time a rough diamond is traded, it is accompanied by a certificate with a legally binding guarantee that it is from a conflict free source.

10,000

Natural colour diamonds, such as champagne diamonds, are extremely rare: the physical conditions that colour a diamond occur very scarcely, so much so that only one in 10,000 diamonds is a natural colour diamond, which is why they’re so treasured!

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// INTELLIGENCE

Home Grown Gems Show off your patriotic side in understated fashion with these Australian gems that have become national icons.

This page: Necklace // Giulians

OpAlS

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Proclaimed as Australia’s most famous gemstone, opal has long been admired throughout the ages – from ancient Romans to the Aztecs and the Arabs. Staking its position in the world from its discovery more than 2000 years ago, opal is the only gemstone in the world whose colour is created by refracted light, gifting it with seven colours of the rainbow. With its flashes of spectral colour and pattern, no two opals are ever alike. Similar to the rainbow colours on a soap bubble, its effect changes with the smallest rotation. Australia is one of the few places on earth where the unique

combination of criteria is needed for opals to occur. Opal is generally found at depths between 10 to 30 meters below the surface in a layer of claystone or “opal dirt” immediately below a level of sandstone. Australia produces over 90% of the world’s supply of opal and approximately 99% of gem quality opal. Major Australian opal fields are located in Lightning Ridge and White Cliffs in New South Wales (black opal), Coober Pedy, Andamooka and Mintabie in South Australia (light opal) and various locations in Queensland which produce boulder opals.


South Sea PearlS Their large size, limited culturing area and extended growth period all combine to make South Sea pearls the rarest of all pearl types. Found in colours ranging from optic white to deep honey gold, these pearls are prized by collectors and designers alike. The lustre of South Sea pearls, whether white or golden, is soft and luxurious. Only a small percentage of South Sea pearls are spherical and as such, full strands of matched pearls are extremely rare. South Sea pearls are generally much larger than other pearl types and have a unique lustre quality – a soft reflection due to the large aragonite platelets that make up the pearl. These factors make South Sea pearls both distinctive and valuable. South Sea pearls have the highest value and command the highest prices of all types of pearls.

argyle diamondS

lightning ridge Black oPalS Originally known as Wallangulla, Lightning Ridge just beyond the town of Walgett in northeast New South Wales is famed locality for the Black Opal which was first found in the area back in 1900 by boundary rider Jack Murray. So what is Black Opal? Black Opal is actually White Opal stuck to a black rock. The blackness from the black rock comes from seaweed, in particular the manganese contained in seaweed, which gives it its blueblack to dark grey body tone. Fine examples of this variety are the most expensive per carat and rival diamonds in price.

This page: Rings // MDT Design Necklace // Rutherfords

Located in the remote Kimberley area of Western Australia, Rio Tinto’s Argyle Diamond mine produces many of the world’s diamonds with most of them ending up as centrepieces in fine jewellery. It is the only known significant source of pink diamonds in the world, producing over 90% of the world’s supply. Of the small percentage of gem quality diamonds produced by Argyle, none are more famous or prized than the pink diamonds. These pinks are exceptionally rare and fetch exceptionally high prices. To understand just how rare they are, consider the number of pink diamonds that the mine produced in 2007. Of the 18 million carats of diamonds that the mine produced that year, only 65 carats were of a quality, size and colour to be classified as signature pink.

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// INTELLIGENCE

Declaring a

union in style Becoming engaged to the one you love is a beautiful and very personal act, which should be reflected in the jewellery that symbolises this commitment. Bianca Mangion uncovers current trends in men’s engagement rings.

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Opposite page: Jewellery // MDT Image // Anthony Masci

A woman’s engagement ring is often traditional and simple in style, allowing the diamond to tell the story while shining its brightest; however, men are not bound by such conventions and can afford to be more liberal with the style of their rings whilst still keeping their pieces timeless. Men’s engagement rings are big business today and, in contrast to the classic solitaire for the girls, guys are somewhat freer to explore the use of textures, tones and stones to create pieces that scream style while also telling the world of their upcoming nuptials. Custom designs herald a shift toward personalisation, which is a trend that MDT Designs workshop manager and sales executive Kosta Theochari is noticing among his clients. The moment Thoechari explains to men their options for enagement rings, his customers usually choose to put an individual spin on their choices. “At first, men think their only options are to purchase something ready-made yet this soon changes when we explain everything here is 100 per cent handmade onsite and that modifications can be done,” Theochari explains. “Around 80 per cent of men don’t find exactly what they want on a shelf so they opt to change elements of designs such as the finish, metal tones and adding or removing stones.” The Melbourne-based jeweller attests that simple changes can make for a ring with individuality, something especially to suit the wearer, and rightly so. “A person should not compromise on such an important purchase; generally, custom making a ring for them is the way to go,” he says. MDT’s sales of men’s engagement rings are higher than ever, further indicating men don’t want to miss out on the fun of selecting a beautiful engagement ring for themselves. “There has been a big increase in male engagement rings over the past few years and our stock is growing to keep up with the ideas and concepts that guys like,” Theochari says. “We now have a much larger collection compared to five years ago and, from this collection, our clients get ideas for us to custom design – every person is different and their jewellery should be too.” One popular trend in the category is Mokume Gane, an ancient Japanese technique blending both 18-carat white and yellow gold or 18-carat white and rose gold. The metal is layered together to give a fluid, natural finish reminiscent of wood grain. The interconnected, two-tone effect is also a symbolic way to reflect the union of two lovers. “Mokume Gane is great for those wanting a two-tone ring with a difference,” Theochari says.

Another departure from tradition is the preference for natural white gold without the classic rhodium plating. The natural grey colour of white gold makes for a more industrial looking piece that appeals to men, according to Theochari. It’s important for men’s engagement rings to look masculine and strong whilst still being opulent enough for such a grand commitment. The desired effect is often achieved through the finish of modern men’s engagement rings. Gone is the era where a polished gold band was all on offer. “Many men are choosing to have their ring in an emery or brushed finish, along with black rhodium plating in grooves and etchings on the ring,” Theochari reports. “The darker colour works well when combined with traditional coloured metals like white, rose or yellow gold.”

Another way to highlight the engagement band is with precious stones. According to Theochari, around half of all MDT Designs’ male customers include stones in their engagement bands.

“Over the years there has been an increase in men’s jewellery with diamonds but they often prefer a coloured diamond, such as blue, black or pink, compared to the more traditional white diamond,” he says. Styles are getting fancier and more detailed but men are still consciously seeking timelessness also. “More men are liking the idea of customising their rings to be different to the more traditional styles while still combining traditional elements so it doesn’t look too crazy on their fingers in 50 years. An example is having a half-round, simple band with grooves running through the ring and a central diamond,” Theochari details. With good fortune, a men’s engagement ring will be worn throughout a lifetime to symbolise a strong, solid union. The ring should be reflective of this partnership, whilst also expressing the individuality of the wearer. It’s lucky then that modern couples have a bevy of creative customisation options right at their fingertips.

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Jewellery // Wolfgang Vaatz

// INTELLIGENCE

stealing the show Can a woman make a statement without moving her mouth? Bianca Mangion shines the spotlight on statement jewellery and finds that, with a bold piece of precious jewellery, a girl can say so much more than she can with words. Statement pieces are those that can stand alone and speak for themselves. They’re happiest shining solo as the centrepiece of an entire outfit and they don’t need much to set them off. These bold icons are often an expression for women looking to celebrate their independence with a show of style. “Many of my clients are women buying a piece they really want for themselves,” Melbourne jeweller Ina Barry of Ina Barry Gold and Silver Smith says, “and there are also lovely partners choosing special pieces for their beloved – hats off to them!” Barry describes most of the pieces on show in her studio as “big and bold with a bit of attitude”. She’s spent over two decades handcrafting and selling beautiful and unique standout jewellery and says all her customers share one commonality.

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“They are all interested in style and beautiful things,” she asserts. Mark Evans of Mark Evans Fine Jewellery in Maroochydore, Queensland agrees that there are no set rules as to who prefers statement jewellery. “Sometimes the least assuming client can call in to have a piece designed that really surprises you but that’s all part of the joy of designing jewellery,” he says. Every woman wants a time to shine and life offers so many opportunities to do so. From momentous occasions to deep, emotional expressions, the demand for statement pieces is high. “The statement piece is often ordered to celebrate a significant birthday, sometimes a change in career, sometimes an engagement and sometimes just because,”Barry says.


This page: Jewellery // Ina Barry Gold & Silversmith Images // Tord Johnston

“Metal-wise, rose gold is in vogue, which I love. So lovely, rich and warm.”

Most often, statement pieces are purchased to mark significant anniversaries. Given personal sentiment is a driving motivator, a statement piece isn’t necessarily determined by size but by individuality. “It’s really up to the client as to what a statement piece entails,” Evans says. “Anything in the way of design, stone choice or metal choice can be a statement piece in the eyes of the individual. We definitely encourage our clients to have an active part in the design process – it makes the finished piece of jewellery all that more special because of their participation.” Customisable statement pieces are also in high demand at Ina Barry Gold and Silver Smith. “Most of my pieces are made to order from my designs but with client input into stone/pearl colour and size,” Barry details. “I also make many one-off, custom pieces. I have a large range of pieces on display and sometimes people choose a piece ready-made but often they will order a similar piece with a small variation.” Evans reflects on metal trends in statement jewellery: “White gold has been popular for a number of years now but there is also a growing interest in mixing metals like white and rose gold or white and yellow gold.” For Barry, South Sea pearls and coloured gemstones often shout the loudest. “I use coloured gemstones in most of my work but gold South Sea pearls have recently been very popular, as well as large morganite and London blue topaz paired with rubies,” she says. “Metal-wise, rose gold is in vogue, which I love. So lovely, rich and warm.”

just design or both, and think about where you’ll wear it and what you’ll wear it with.”

Trendy pieces do benefit from seasonal attention; however, true style never goes quietly, which is why astute statement-jewellery scouts hunt pieces that have timeless appeal.

Sensible advice but how many of Barry’s clients are seeking statement pieces that are practical? She recalls one ring so unique that the wearer wasn’t allowed to board a plane while wearing it.

Barry believes her designs make a strong statement yet boast a timelessness that keeps pieces wearable year after year. She cites her Queen Orb Pendant set with 15mm pearl and surrounding gems as an example and says customers regularly pair it with her Queen ring, a cocktail-style ring set with generously-sized coloured gems or pearls. She has some advice for those looking to acquire the perfect statement jewel: “Think about whether you want something you can wear forever or if you want something just for the next little while. Think about whether quality is important to you or

“I guess it was a bit too spikey,” she says. Then there was the Vamp necklace: a collar with large, beautifully-sculpted talons radiating from the neck and a central stone at the nape. Dannii Minogue wore it in a photo shoot for Harper’s Bazaar! For celebrities or superstars in their own right, one thing is certain: a bold expression of style will always make a statement.

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// INTELLIGENCE

The finesT of Them all The rare beauty of pink diamonds knows no substitute. Bianca Mangion discusses the astonishing rise in value of the world’s most-desired gems. The Australian national anthem boasts, “Our land abounds in nature’s gifts of beauty rich and rare.” This is perhaps nowhere near as pertinent than when describing Argyle pink diamonds. The stunning, blushing beauties born in the wild of the remote East Kimberley region in Western Australia have never been more prized for their rarity and value. In recent years, exceptional examples have fetched upwards of $1m per carat and prices seem set to go higher still! This is because the Rio Tinto Argyle Diamond Mine, where over 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds are unearthed is tipped to close in a mere four to five years, creating genuine scarcity in the market. “This now makes an Argyle pink diamond ‘the ultimate limited edition’,” says Craig Leonard of Leonard’s Jewellers. Operating in Newcastle, New South Wales since 1932, Leonard’s Jewellers offers a wide collection of pink diamonds, including the

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prized Argyle pinks, with expertise to match. Leonard is passionate about pinks, calling them the most concentrated form of wealth in the world and stating that the price of the gems has increased 430 per cent in the last 11 years. “They are the rarest and most valuable hard asset on Earth today,” he quips. “It is projected by the world’s leading diamond experts that they will continue to grow in price for at least the next 10 years.” Rare indeed: it is estimated that there are 10,000 colourless diamonds for every coloured diamond in existence. In operation since 1983, Argyle supplies approximately 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds yet pink diamonds are rare, even for Argyle. While the mine produces 600 million stones annually, only one tenth of one per cent is pink – white and champagne diamonds are in greater abundance while blue and green diamonds also appear there at times.


This page: Top Jewellery // Musson Jewellers Centre & bottom Jewellery // Giulians All Images // Tandy Rowley Opposite page: Jewellery // Giulians Image // Tandy Rowley

Of an annual yield, the amount of Argyle pink diamonds sized half a carat or greater would fit into the palm of your hand so it’s testament to the popularity of pink diamonds that the mine is best known for them. Rarer still, the violet diamonds produced there in a year would only just fill a teaspoon. Such rarity demands the most exclusive trading conditions. The finest stones from a year’s production are reserved for the annual Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender, usually featuring those sized half a carat and upwards. These precious stones are cut and polished by the most skilled artisans and then graded by two independent grading laboratories. These labs apply a unique grading system to the stones, mainly inspecting the richness of colour, which can range from red to pink, purplish pink to pink rose and pink champagne to violet. Once graded, the diamonds are ready for tender. Of the one million carats of rough diamonds produced at the mine each year, only one carat of pink diamonds is available for sale at the event truly making each of these stones a one-in-a-million purchase! The finest 55-60 diamonds are revealed at a private showing, where prospective buyers have the opportunity to place sealed bids. Is it any wonder these precious gems are so coveted?! Leonard advises those looking to obtain a pink diamond – whether looking to make a self-managed superannuation investment or to use the stones as complementary side diamonds on an engagement ring – not to settle for anything less. “Ensure it’s an Argyle pink diamond, not an African or Brazilian pink as these diamonds do not have the rarity that will keep driving the prices up,” he warns. If you are purchasing a pink diamond jewellery piece, Leonard advises to opt for popular, classic designs: “When it comes to styles, most people keep to what’s popular as they will generally want to resell it after a few years to make a profit.” Value aside, a pink diamond lover appreciates these beauties for the depth of their romantic hue, which should be observed when making a purchase. The more intense and deep its colour, the greater the value of a pink diamond – the rare deep red is the ultimate prize. “Unlike white diamonds it’s all about the saturation of pink colour and not the clarity, as most Argyle pink diamonds are I1 to SI2 in clarity,” Leonard adds. This pink tone is purportedly produced as a result of rare geological conditions. While scientists are still uncertain, many accept that a pink diamond’s colour comes from a distortion in the diamond’s molecular structure following its formation in the Earth’s mantle or during its 160km ascent to the Earth’s surface. When they do appear, only the luckiest few will ever get to possess these precious pinks.

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Jewellery // Giulians Photography // Gazi Photography

// INTELLIGENCE

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Gem of the sea For centuries pearls have been a symbol of beauty and purity. Today, they are regarded as both classic and contemporary, and come in more styles than your mother’s traditional strand of pearls. Learning about types of pearls is important when adding these items to your jewellery collection.

CreaTion Pearls, natural or cultured, are formed when a mollusc produces layers of nacre around an irritant inside its shell. In natural pearls, the irritant may be another organism from the water. In cultured pearls, a mother-of-pearl bead or a piece of tissue is inserted into the mollusc to start the process. The quality of the nacre dictates the quality of the lustre or shine of the pearl, which is very important to its beauty and its value.

appearanCe The surface of the pearl should be smooth and free of marks, while the overall shape could be round, oval, pear-shaped or even misshapen. The misshapen pearls are called baroque pearls. Necklaces can be classified as uniform, where all pearls are about the same size, or graduated where the pearls change uniformly from the ends to the centre.

Types oF pearLs Freshwater Pearls These pearls are grown in freshwater lakes, rivers and ponds. Although many are white, they can be produced in various shapes and in an array of pastel colours. Many freshwater pearls don’t have a bead nucleus, only a piece of tissue, which results in a pearl with thicker nacre.

Saltwater Pearls These include the Akoya cultured pearls, which are grown in Japanese and Chinese waters. They range in size from 2mm to 10mm and are usually white or cream in colour and are a round shape. Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines produce the South Sea Pearl, which is the largest of all the pearls. They range in size from 9mm to 20mm and can be naturally white, cream or golden in colour. Natural Pearls These are extremely rare. Historically, many were found in the Persian Gulf but unfortunately today most have already been harvested. You may be able to purchase small, natural pearls but they will be very expensive. Cultured Pearls These are grown in pearl farms. The molluscs are raised until they are old enough to accept the mother-of-pearl bead nucleus. Through a delicate procedure, a technician implants the bead and then the molluscs are returned to the water and cared for while the pearl forms. Not all produce a pearl and not all pearls are high quality, which is why over 10, 000 pearls may be sorted before a 16” single strand of beautifully matched pearls can be assembled.

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// INTELLIGENCE

express yourself Bianca Mangion celebrates the unique beauty of coloured gemstone jewellery. It begins with the staples that every woman must possess – a sizeable diamond ring (engagement or right hand); simple, elegant diamond studs; a gleaming, cultured pearl necklace; the solid gold bracelet or bangle – but no enviable jewellery collection is complete without a beautiful array of coloured-stone pieces to match one’s mood, taste and whimsy. Often these jewels are reflective of the wearer’s unique personality and experiences, making them intensely personal purchases. With a deep appreciation of the joy that jewels can bring to their lives, passionate jewellery aficionados everywhere crave creations that vividly reflect their personal style, personality and life experiences, and nothing expresses individuality more than a precious piece crafted from coloured gemstones.

Jewellery // Catanach’s Image // Tord Johnston

Perhaps this is because coloured gems are available in an astonishing spectrum of shades, each speaking to the uniqueness of a woman’s personality and each resonating with her accordingly. The colour itself is not

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Jewellery // Mark Evans Fine Jewellery Image // Tord Johnston

important; colour reflects individuality. As Coco Chanel once said, “The best colour in the whole world is the one that looks good on you.” A woman classic in style will be most drawn to the calm clarity of aquamarine, the bold passion of ruby, the mysterious depth of sapphire, the elegant richness of emerald, the spirituality of amethyst, the sunny cheer of citrine, the energising freshness of peridot or the romantic femininity of pink topaz. Those who seek unconventional chic might desire the unrestrained merriment of opal, the wild earthiness of jasper, the honeyed sensuality of amber, the free spirit of turquoise or the soft sweetness of rose quartz. Mark Evans of Mark Evans Fine Jewellery in Maroochydore, Queensland suggests shoppers in search of coloured gemstone jewellery should undertake some research on the gems they fancy. “Whether it be tourmalines, sapphires, emeralds or rubies, there is a vast colour palate of natural and beautiful gemstones available so their choice has to be absolutely correct,” he says. “This means the design has to compliment the choice of gemstones to be used in the piece.” To own a coloured gemstone is to express a certain sense of confidence and self-assurance, a knowing of oneself and one’s place in the world. Possessing a precious, coloured-gemstone adornment also shows success. Like high fashion, precious jewellery expresses a woman’s excellent personal taste; however, it is often much dearer than even a couture garment. When a woman has the means to obtain investment pieces that deviate from the classics and instead select items that express a mood,

style or aspect of her personality, it is clear her life is blessed with good fortune. For Evans, coloured stones are an integral part of his showcase and he acknowledges their fashion element: “Coloured gemstones have played a very important part of who we are as a business and of our profile within the jewellery industry in Australia. We constantly review what’s trending in the Asian and European markets.” Evans predicts that Morganite will be very much on trend over the coming year but may only last another year or so as his clients shift attentions to other gemstones. Coloured stones come in an array of cuts and shapes – smooth and sensual like a cabochon; fun and flirty like a briolette; slender and elongated like a baguette; understatedly elegant like an emerald cut; soft yet bold like a cushion cut. Fusions of various cuts and colours create a story that sparks the imagination and entices the onlooker to learn more. Gems capture beauty as naturally as all women everywhere. As varied, vibrant and bright as a garden full of flowers, coloured gemstones also bare natural inclusions. What a superficial mind may perceive as an imperfection is actually yet another manifestation of individuality. Coloured stones remind us that nature’s beauty is all around. Beautiful women naturally want to surround themselves with this beauty and there’s no greater way than to wear it on their skin. They want others to know their beauty, to see it and then learn more about its richness. Above all, beauty is unique, which is why a woman’s desire to include a rich selection of coloured gemstones in her jewellery collection will always shine brightly.

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// INTELLIGENCE

creative heights the saul bell design awards By Bianca Mangion

Magic happens when we step out of our comfort zone and explore uncharted territory and jewellery design is no exception. As much as we love timeless classics, adornment aficionados crave new designs that push the boundaries of what is possible. The Saul Bell Design Awards celebrates bench jewellers who dare to ponder the potential of precious metals. These jewellers toy

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with textures, tones and techniques, combining cuts and colours in unprecedented ways. Running annually since 2001, the Saul Bell Design Awards recognises outstanding jewellers, designers and hollowware artists from across the globe. The US-based awards commemorate famed American jeweller Saul Bell, whose passion for jewellery


This page: Jewellery // “On The Wing” Debbie Sheezel

Bell’s family established the competition, which tallows inspired jewellers to showcase their talents and drive their skills and creativity to new levels.

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This page: Jewellery // “On The Wing� Debbie Sheezel

design and creation spanned almost all of his 96 years. An enthusiastic bench jeweller, Bell was renowned for a desire to share what he knew with those around him. To acknowledge the spirit of his generosity, Bell’s family established the competition, which tallows inspired jewellers to showcase their talents and drive their skills and creativity to new levels. Not surprisingly, Australian jewellers consistently rise to the challenge. The awards have seen many finalists and winners from our shores over the years, including Debbie Sheezel, who won first place in the Enamel category in 2016 for On the Wing, a striking, azure butterfly necklace exhibiting beautiful detail and fluidity. In 2017 the competition will again be fierce as jewellers from all over the globe battle it out in categories including Gold/Platinum, Hollowware/Art Objects, Silver, Alternative Metals/Materials, Metal Clay and Emerging Jewellery Artist. Entrants can submit as many pieces as they wish; however, they can only enter one in each category in any given year. Judges in 2016 included reputed bench jewellers and designers, as well as editors of leading jewellery publications.

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welcome to the

jewellery design awards 2017 The Jewellery Design AwArDs is A unique new nATionAl compeTiTion, which is open To All AusTrAliAn Jewellers. All enTries Are originAl pieces of AusTrAliAn-mADe AnD DesigneD Jewellery. in This our inAugurAl yeAr we’re exciTeD To Announce ThAT we hAve receiveD sixTy enTries from Across AusTrAliA AnD The DiversiTy in Design is A DiAmonD DeAler’s DelighT. our enTries run The full gAmuT of ArTisTry AnD creATiviTy, highlighTing noT only TechnicAl precision AnD ADherence To Design funDAmenTAls buT Also Delving Deeply inTo The imAginATion AnD invenTiveness we’ve come To expecT from AusTrAliA’s worlD-clAss Jewellery Design inDusTry. from An ulTrA-high-presTige pink DiAmonD penDAnT To A remArkAble ‘brick’ Design ring inspireD by TAsmAniA’s nAscenT beginnings As A convicT penAl colony, The fielD boTh fAscinATes AnD elecTrifies, sTAnDing AlofT As A sTunning cATAlogue of Down unDer Design cApAbiliTies. in The JuDging criTeriA for These AwArDs innovATion is essenTiAl, AnD JuDges will Also Assess pieces on Their Design, mATeriAl choices AnD overAll weArAbiliTy. Jewellery Design AwArD finAlisTs will All be feATureD in The AwArDs speciAl eDiTion of Jewellery scheDuleD for releAse miD 2017. for now, TAke A momenT To peruse These pAges, feAsT your eyes on This yeAr’s enTries AnD DeciDe which ones mosT TAke your fAncy. we’re sure you Too will celebrATe The creATive excellence of some of The leADing ArTisAns of This greAT inDusTry.

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// edition 15 // INTELLIGENCE

jewellery design awards

Jewellery // “Mercedia Rose Diamond Cocktail Ring” Robert Paul Jewellery Image // Tandy Rowley

Jewellery // Catanach’s Jewellers

outright winner for 2017 - robert paul

Contents Intelligence Gold Digger

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The Finest of Them All

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Did You Know

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Gem Of The Sea

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Diamond Details 30 On a crisp July night, a respected ring of jewellers and Metalwork 34 photographers gathered at the historic Vincent Hotel in Albert Rose TimeMedia Ink Jewellery Design Awards. 36 Park, VictoriaA for theIn2017 Their mission: to scrutinise entries from all over Australia in search Colour, Carat, Clarity, Cut 38 of winners in 17 individual categories including, but not limited Go Figure to, engagement rings, earrings, pendants, pink diamonds,40 bridal jewellery, pearls, opals, accessories and men’s jewellery. Home Grown Gems 42 To say excitement was high would be understating proceedings; Declaring A Union In Style 44 it was palpable. One judge, Auscert’s Anthony Bates, described the quality Stealing The Show 46 of entries as “stunning”, a testament to the level of design talent in Australia. “Definitely there were entrants who took the time to not only meet expectations but exceed them. There’s some incredible talent coming through,” he said, singling out young designers for commendation. “The younger end of the trade is pushing the boundaries of

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Robert Paul

Express Yourself 52 what can be achieved using different metals other than gold and Creative Heights 54 platinum,” Bates added. Affair 224 Coffey of ThePearl judging panel for the evening consisted of Gary Giulians Fine Jewellery, Auscert diamond grading expert Anthony Emeralds To Enthrall 228 Bates, gold and silversmith Ina Barry, bespoke jeweller Brad Surprising 230 Bird, and Tim PeelSapphires of Silvermist Studio. Also in attendance were professional jewellery photographers Tord Johnston, Anthony Masci The Golden Rule 232 and Tandy Rowley as well as Jewellery publisher Chris MacLeod. Franco Jewellers 234

The judging A Diamond Connoisseur

236 Each judge scored entries out of 20 in five categories – originality, design, complexity, wearability and impact – for a total out of 100. The eight judges then summed their results so that each piece received an aggregate score out of 800. It must be noted that judges were eligible to submit pieces for publication but these pieces were “deemed non competing entries” and were not included in the voting.


Jewellery Craftsmanship

Definitely there were entrants who took the time to not only meet expectations but exceed them. There’s some incredible talent coming through.

Above and Inset Jewellery // “Mercedia Rose Diamond Cocktail Ring” Robert Paul Jewellery Images // Tandy Rowley

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The consensus among judges was that entries this year highlighted two popular trends in jewellery – the use of alternative metals, reflected by a noticeable deviation away from gold and platinum; liberal splashes of colour, including red, pink and white combinations for a look that has popular this.season. Toorak been Rd, very South Yarra Victoria, Australia 3141 . Tel +61 3 9866

The winners

4983 www.iansharp.com.au

All competitions need winners and Media Ink is pleased to announce that Robert Paul of Robert Paul Jewellery Charlestown, NSW has taken home the inaugural title of Outright Winner after scooping the All Rings (over $5,000) award. The Mercedia Rose Diamond Cocktail Ring features a 1.92-carat Mercedia-cut diamond set into a palladium, 18-carat green and rose gold cocktail ring. Valued at $60,000, the stunning entry was adjudged overall winner after earning a total score from the eight judges of 655 out of 800. Robert takes home the stunning Media Ink Jewellery Design Awards trophy, which is a collaboration between Ina Barry and Chris MacLeod. Trophy // Ina Barry Gold & Silversmith in collaboration with Chris MacLeod Image // Tord Johnston


// INTELLIGENCE

CoNGraTuLaTIoNs To aLL oThEr CaTEGory wINNErs 1//

All Rings (up to $5,000): Ralf Fisch and Angela Cunningham, Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery – Collaborate & Listen, valued at $2,595.

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Necklaces (up to $5,000): De Klerk Jewellers – Mokume Gane Necklace, valued at $4,999.

Men’s Jewellery: JWG – Rust and Diamonds,

Necklaces (over $5,000): Samantha Kelly Jewellery – Ametrine and Diamond Pendant,

valued at $4,950.

valued at $7,500.

Pink Diamonds: JWG – Hollow Halo, valued at

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$30,000.

Engagement Rings (over $5,000): Renee Hudson, Legassick – White Gold Cushion Cut Diamond Engagement Ring, valued at $74,895.

Director’s Cut Award: Angela Cunningham, Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery – Grid Ring, valued at $6,810.

12// Opals: Jason Ree – Whirl, valued at $5,000.

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Earrings (up to $5,000): Danny Lee Designs – Monet, valued at $5,000.

13// Bridal Jewellery: Jason Ree – Sea Foam Necklace, valued at $4,850.

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Earrings (over $5,000): Arkion Boutique Investments – Amarillo Claro Pear Drop Earrings, valued at $79,750.

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Pearls: Laura Springbett, Bell & Brunt Jewellers – Eclipse, valued at $4,895.

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Pendants: De Klerk Jewellers – Mokume Gane Unisex Pendant, valued at $2,990.

People’s Choice Diamond Award: Xennox Diamonds – Valentino, valued at $11,995.

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All Rings (over $5,000): Robert Paul – Mercedia Rose Diamond Cocktail Ring, valued at $60,000.

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16// Accessories (over $5,000): Creations Jewellers – Citrine and Diamond Brooch, valued at $9,950.

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With the overall and category winners now chosen we are very pleased to present over the following 120 pages all of the innovative and highly creative entires that have made this event possible. We hope you will enjoy paging through all of these entries just as much as we have. Media Ink extends a warm thank you to all of this years entrants as well as our panel of esteemed judges. We hope we will see you all again next year for the Jewellery Design Awards 2018.


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JEwEllERy DESIgN AwARDS

ARKION BOUTIQUE INVESTMENTS Category: Earrings Design: Handmade Value: $79,750

“Amarillo Claro” Pear Drop Earrings Arkion deals with hard to find stones that are either one of a kind or extremely rare. Arkion’s jewellery pieces are unique, rare pieces of art to be worn and shown to the rest of the world. At Arkion we are passionate about our business and what we do. We do everything we can to help our client and over the years have made some magnificent pieces of jewellery from some of these amazingly unique stones. The “Amarillo Claro” pear drop earrings are something that is very special to Arkion. It is our own design and took over a year to source the stones and create the jewellery piece. The earrings are made from platinum with the most amazing stones. They have matching pear shaped diamonds totaling 1.05ct both D in colour and Internally Flawless (IF) clarity and GIA certified. Below you have matching pear shaped fancy coloured diamonds one is 1.00ct Fancy Intense Yellow (FIY) in colour and VVS1 clarity. With the matching pear 1.02ct Fancy Intense Yellow (FIY) in colour and Internally Flawless (IF) clarity, both GIA certified. There are also round brilliant diamonds set around totaling 1.50ct. This piece was carefully planned and the diamonds were sourced by Joshua himself, searching the global for the perfect match of perfect stones. These earrings are not only a magnificent piece of jewellery that one can keep for generations to come but are also an investment in rare quality diamonds. We hope that the owner of these unique stones and jewellery will enjoy the piece and know that they are more than just earrings. “They are an investment for the future as well as a rare piece of beauty.”

JoshuA shArP - ArKIoN BouTIQuE INVEsTMENTs P: 0414 588 561 E: joshua@arkion.com.au www.arkion.com.au

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Jewellery design awards

australian chocolate diamonds Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Cad Assist Value: $14,999

Desert Rose Nature has created something beautiful and Australian Chocolate Diamonds have turned it into a dream. A natural, Argyle Australian Chocolate Diamond takes centre stage in a rose gold floret adorned with brilliant, white diamonds, making every angle spectacularly breathtaking. This piece is not only a ring, it also transforms into a pendant; simply unclip and add to a rose gold chain. This head-turning and innovative design exudes femininity and truly revolutionises any jewellery collection.

AustRAlIAn ChoColAte DIAmonDs e: info@acdiamonds.com.au www.acdiamonds.com.au

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Creations Jewellers Category: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $19,750 Entry Piece: A

The Continuem Diamond Ring The Continuem ring is made from one continuous ribbon of Platinum. The central diamond weighs 1.01ct and is highlighted by pave set diamonds.

CREaTions JEwEllERs shop 5 style arcade, Manuka, aCT P: (02) 62951763 E: info@creationsjewellers.com.au

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Creations Jewellers Category: Accessories (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $19,750 Entry Piece: A

The Splash Brooch This stunning brooch is made from 18ct yellow and white gold, it makes a stylish statement with a South Sea Pearl and a generous splash of pave set diamonds.

CrEaTionS JEwEllErS Shop 5 Style arcade, Manuka, aCT P: (02) 62951763 E: info@creationsjewellers.com.au

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Creations Jewellers Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $15,590

Marquise Diamond Ring Platinum and 18ct Rose Gold showcase the magic of these Marquise cut diamonds. A truely beautiful ring to admire from every angle.

CReations JewelleRs shop 5 style arcade, Manuka, aCt P: (02) 62951763 e: info@creationsjewellers.com.au

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Jewellery Design awarDs

Creations Jewellers Category: Accessories (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $9,950

Citrine and Diamond Brooch A dazzling 20ct trilliant cut Citrine sets off a pattern of triangular shapes for this architectural brooch. Made from Palladium the brooch also features 0.77ct of round brilliant cut diamonds.

Creations Jewellers shop 5 style arcade, Manuka, aCt P: (02) 62951763 e: info@creationsjewellers.com.au

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JeweLLery Design awarDs

Danny Lee Designs Category: Earrings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $6,500

Deity These earrings feature two white South Sea pearls both measuring a large 16mm x 18mm. The pearls are on 18ct yellow gold tapered hooks set with 0.20ct of diamonds in a complementary 18ct white gold floral design.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road, North Balwyn, VIC P: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 E: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com www.dannyleedesigns.com

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Danny Lee Designs Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Cad Assist Value: $25,000

Red Sunset over Golden Sun One natural Imperial topaz weighing 4.03ct surrounded by 1.08ct of yellow diamonds in a radiating 18ct rose gold open scalloped channel setting. The stones are resting in an 18ct white gold marquise open detailed basket, finished with a border of white round brilliant cut diamonds equalling 0.50ct.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road, North Balwyn, VIC P: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 E: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com www.dannyleedesigns.com

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Danny Lee Designs Category: Earrings (up to $5,000) Design: Cad Assist Value: $5,000

Monet These pastel floral cluster earrings feature round brilliant cut diamonds, amethyst, lemon quartz, and pink sapphires, nestled in 18ct rose gold leaves.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road, North Balwyn, VIC P: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 E: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com www.dannyleedesigns.com

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Danny Lee Designs Category: Pendant Design: Handmade Value: $4,250

Bumblebee Found by Danny Lee in the rural country of Rubyvale Australia this stunning 12.06ct Australian golden star sapphire exhibits its highly sought after 6 rayed star. It is accompanied by 0.19ct of Australian yellow diamonds and 0.36ct of Australian white diamonds set into handcrafted 18ct white and yellow gold. The liveliness of the bee represents the endless possibilities of Danny Lee’s craftsmanship.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road, North Balwyn, VIC P: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 E: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com www.dannyleedesigns.com

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Danny Lee Designs Category: Earrings (over $5,000) Design: Cad Assist Value: $5,200

Classic Diamond Earrings These timeless diamond earrings feature 1.50ct of diamonds in 18ct white gold.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road, North Balwyn, VIC P: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 E: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com www.dannyleedesigns.com

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de KlerK Jewellers Category: Mens Jewellery Design: Handmade Value: $3,190 Entry Piece: A

Mokume Gane Cuff Mokume Gane cuff hand made from 9ct yellow gold, silver and copper, in the traditional wood grain pattern.

NiCk DE klErk - DE klErk JEwEllErs 3/47 Neridah st, Chatswood, sydney, Nsw P: (02) 9412 4816 F: (02) 9412 4916 E: deklerkjewellers@gmail.com www.deklerkjewellers.com.au

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de KlerK Jewellers Category: Necklaces (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $4,999

Mokume Gane Necklace Original design necklace, cast and hand made, made from 9ct rose gold, 9ct white gold, silver, copper and stainless steel, featuring a Rhodolite garnet as the centrepiece. Incorporating two beautiful twist Mokume Gane patterns that blend into one at the centre.

NiCk De klerk - De klerk Jewellers 3/47 Neridah st, Chatswood, sydney, Nsw P: (02) 9412 4816 F: (02) 9412 4916 e: deklerkjewellers@gmail.com www.deklerkjewellers.com.au

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de KlerK Jewellers Category: Pendant Design: Handmade Value: $2,990 Entry Piece: A

Mokume Gane Unisex Pendant Mokume Gane hand made pendant made from 18ct white gold, silver and copper, utilising two distinct and original patterns to show case the Mokume patterning.

NiCk DE klErk - DE klErk JEwEllErs 3/47 Neridah st, Chatswood, sydney, Nsw P: (02) 9412 4816 F: (02) 9412 4916 E: deklerkjewellers@gmail.com www.deklerkjewellers.com.au

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de KlerK Jewellers Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $14,990

Tourmaline Dress Ring Handmade 18ct white and rose gold dress ring set with a 8.21ct stunning Namibian Teal Tourmaline, supported by two HPHT teal blue diamonds and 44 E/VS diamonds (total weight 0.26ct).

NiCk De kleRk - De kleRk JewelleRs 3/47 Neridah st, Chatswood, sydney, Nsw P: (02) 9412 4816 F: (02) 9412 4916 e: deklerkjewellers@gmail.com www.deklerkjewellers.com.au

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de KlerK Jewellers Category: Pink Diamond Design: Handmade Value: $105,000

Fancy Cut Diamond Dress Ring Diamond dress ring set with eight central claw set fancy cut pink diamonds (1.50ct total), supported by twelve, claw set fancy cut yellow diamonds (1.86ct total), and thirty-two castle set, brilliant cut white diamonds (0.48ct total D colour), in an 18ct white, yellow and rose gold, handmade cluster design.

NiCk De kleRk - De kleRk JewelleRs 3/47 Neridah st, Chatswood, sydney, Nsw P: (02) 9412 4816 F: (02) 9412 4916 e: deklerkjewellers@gmail.com www.deklerkjewellers.com.au

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JEWELLERY DESIgN AWARDS

IAN SHARP JEWELLERY CRAFTSMANSHIP Category: Necklaces : Pink Diamond Design: Handmade Value: $1,000,000

“Tripler Rose Collier” Pink Diamond Necklace Ian Sharp Jewellery works with Arkion to find stones that are either one of a kind or extremely rare. The stones are then made into unique, rare pieces of art to be worn and shown to the rest of the world. At Ian Sharp we love the wow factor and want to ensure our clients are happy with the pieces and that they can wear it as well. We have named the necklace “Tripler Rose Collier” which is French and is translated to “Triple Pink Necklace” in English. Our in-house jewellers designed and created the ring after finding these three beautiful stones. The necklace is made from 18k white gold with round brilliant diamonds around the pink diamonds. The three Pink diamonds are: 1.29ct Pear Shaped Fancy Intense Purple Pink SI2 GIA; 0.81ct Heart Shaped Fancy Intense Pink SI2 GIA (3P-SI1) 0.58ct Emerald Shaped Fancy Intense Purplish Pink VS1 GIA (2PP-SI1). This piece was specifically designed for our client by our team and hand made by our jewellers and the diamonds were sourced by Arkion. We know that the owner of this unique necklace will enjoy the piece and know that it is more than just a piece of jewellery. “It is an investment for the future as well as a rare piece of beauty.”

Joshua shaRP - IaN shaRP JEWELLERY CRaFTsMaNshIP P: 0414 588 561 or (03) 9866 4983 E: joshua@iansharp.com.au www.iansharp.com.au

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Ina Barry Gold and sIlver smIth Category: Earrings (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $2,400

Miranda Talon Earrings 9ct stud earrings set with 5mm facetted pink tourmalines in a star-burst setting, with 13.5mm Tahitian pearls set in a Talon/Claw setting.

Ina Barry - Ina Barry GolD anD SIlVEr SMITh P: 0409 393 738 E: ina@inabarryjewellery.com www.inabarryjewellery.com

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Jewellery desIGn awards

Ina Barry Gold and sIlver smIth Category: Pendant Design: Handmade Value: $2,000 Entry Piece: A

Queen Obelia Pendant 9ct gold pendant set with 5mm facetted pink tourmaline, 14mm x 12mm oval facetted green amethyst and 3mm pink freshwater pearls.

Ina Barry - Ina Barry GOlD anD SIlVEr SmIth P: 0409 393 738 E: ina@inabarryjewellery.com www.inabarryjewellery.com

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Ina Barry Gold and sIlver smIth Category: Pearls (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $2,900

Goddess Ring 9ct gold ring sculpted with two sexy goddesses holding a 13.5mm deep gold south sea pearl.

Ina BaRRy - Ina BaRRy GolD anD SIlVeR SmIth P: 0409 393 738 e: ina@inabarryjewellery.com www.inabarryjewellery.com

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Jewellery desIGn awards

Ina Barry Gold and sIlver smIth Category: Engagement Rings (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $2,000

Rough Amethyst Wedding Ring 9ct gold engagement ring sculpted to hold three amethyst shards, with claws.

InA BARRy - InA BARRy GolD AnD SIlVeR SmIth P: 0409 393 738 e: ina@inabarryjewellery.com www.inabarryjewellery.com

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JewelleRy Design awaRDs

Jason Ree Category: Opals (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $5,000

Whirl Australian Black Opal with Mokume Gane hand sculptured band. Metals consist of Platinum 950, Palladium 500 & Argentium Silver 935.

Jason Ree & Katie LaW P: (02) 9235 2133 e: info@jasonree.com.au www.jasonree.com.au

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JewelleRy Design awaRDs

Jason Ree Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Cad Assist Value: $18,000

Thunder from the Sky Platinum & diamond ring with Argyle pink diamonds & pink sapphires.

JaSon Ree P: (02) 9235 2133 e: info@jasonree.com.au www.jasonree.com.au

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JewelleRy Design awaRDs

Jason Ree Category: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) Design: Cad Assist Value: $11,000

Axis Ring 18ct white gold ring with 0.50ct Princess cut diamond with true suspension setting.

JAson Ree P: (02) 9235 2133 e: info@jasonree.com.au www.jasonree.com.au

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JewelleRy Design awaRDs

Jason Ree Category: Bridal Jewellery (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $4,850

Sea Foam Necklace Neckpiece set with a variety of Tourmalines surrounded by spherical silver bubble, the chain can disconnect to form a choker necklace.

Katie Law P: (02) 9235 2133 e: info@jasonree.com.au www.jasonree.com.au

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JeWellery DesiGn AWArDs

JWG Category: Pearls (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $3,700

Caged Pearl Skull A Black South Sea Pearl, hand carved in house, hangs in a wrought yellow Gold cage with natural coloured and white Diamond details.

JWG P: (07) 5598 4811 E: Info@jwg.com.au www.jwg.com.au

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JeWellery DesiGn AWArDs

JWG Category: Mens Jewellery (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $4,950

Rust and Diamonds Textured Rusted Steel ring is framed in Yellow gold complemented by a mix of earthy toned and white Diamonds.

JWG P: (07) 5598 4811 E: Info@jwg.com.au www.jwg.com.au

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JeWellery DesiGn AWArDs

JWG Category: Mens Jewellery (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $2,500

Timber and Gold Sections of Solid Timber in a brushed yellow Gold ring in a soft half rounded profile.

JWG P: (07) 5598 4811 E: Info@jwg.com.au www.jwg.com.au

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JeWellery DesiGn AWArDs

JWG Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $35,000

Tsavorite and Diamonds Bright green Tsavorite Garnet surrounded by white diamonds in a wide two tone band with black Diamond detail.

JWG P: (07) 5598 4811 E: Info@jwg.com.au www.jwg.com.au

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JeWellery DesiGn AWArDs

JWG Category: Pink Diamonds Design: Handmade Value: $30,000

Hollow Halo Pink and yellow Diamonds alternate around a hollow that leads to a rifled centre on this heavy two tone band with white and Cognac Diamond details.

JWG P: (07) 5598 4811 E: Info@jwg.com.au www.jwg.com.au

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JeWellery DesiGn AWArDs

JWG Category: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $18,000

Queen of Hearts Black Diamonds, Rubies, Sapphire, white Diamonds and Rhodolite Garnet feature in this sculpted two tone engagement ring.

JWG P: (07) 5598 4811 E: Info@jwg.com.au www.jwg.com.au

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KATHARINA MATHEWS Category: Mens Jewellery (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $2,500 Entry Piece: A

Necktie Enhancer Tie clip hand crafted in 925 silver using repoussee technique. To be worn at the front of a tie knot. Weight: 33.53g W: 55mm L: 48.5mm

BEll & BruNt JEwEllErs 14A James Place, Adelaide, sA P: (08) 8231 9997 www.bellandbrunt.com.au

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JEwELLERy DESIGN AwARDS

LAURA SPRINGBETT Category: Pearls (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $4,895 Entry Piece: A

Eclipse 18 carat yellow/white gold diamond set interchangeable Tahitian and South Sea pearl pendant. 20 = 0.40ct backwards set round brilliant cut diamonds F/G VS. 1 x halved 12.8mm Tahitian pearl. 1 x halved 12.8mm South Sea pearl.

BEll & Brunt JEwEllErs 14A James Place, Adelaide, sA P: (08) 8231 9997 www.bellandbrunt.com.au

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JeweLLery design awards

Leonards JeweLLers Category: Pink Diamond Design: Cad Assist Value: $275,000

The Argyle Clutch Pendant Handcrafted in 18ct Rose and White gold, embellished with 2.04ct of Beyond Rare Argyle Pink Diamonds from the 2016 Rio Tinto Argyle Tender. All diamonds have been certified Vivid to Fancy Intense Purplish Pink and VS2 to SI2 in clarity. This bespoke pendant also features 2.70ct of D - VVS Flawless Cut Hearts & Arrow Diamonds.

LeonArDs JeweLLers 110 Darby street, newcastle, nsw (same family, same location since 1932) P: (02) 4927 0000 www.leonards.com.au

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jewellery Design awarDs

mark evans fine jewellery Category: Pendant Design: Handmade Value: POA

Onyx Pendant 9ct white gold heart shape pendant, featuring a heart shape Onyx, PavĂŠ set Pink Sapphires, and a trail of White Diamonds.

mark eVans fine jewellery shop 3 - 45 The esplanade, Cotton Tree, sunshine Coast, QlD P: (07) 5443 2778 E: mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au www.markevansfinejewellery.com.au

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jewellery Design awarDs

mark evans fine jewellery Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: POA Entry Piece: A

Dress Ring A Left: 18ct white gold dress ring, featuring Pavé set Pink Sapphires and Pavé set Black Diamonds, with two rows of accent White Diamonds. Right: 9ct white gold ring, featuring a cabochon Onyx in the centre, surrounded by Pavé set Pink Sapphires and Black Diamonds.

maRk EVans finE jEwEllERy shop 3 - 45 The Esplanade, Cotton Tree, sunshine Coast, QlD P: (07) 5443 2778 E: mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au www.markevansfinejewellery.com.au

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jewellery Design awarDs

mark evans fine jewellery Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: POA Entry Piece: A

Pavé Set Dress Ring A Left: 18ct Yellow and White gold dress ring, featuring Pavé set White and Cognac Diamonds. Centre: 18ct Yellow and White gold pendant, featuring Pavé set Cognac Diamonds in one bar, and a line of grain set White Diamonds in the other. Right: 18ct Yellow Gold dress ring, featuring a Tahitian Pearl, with grain set Diamond Halo’s and a accent of Diamonds on the shoulders.

maRk EVanS finE jEwEllERy Shop 3 - 45 The Esplanade, Cotton Tree, Sunshine Coast, QlD P: (07) 5443 2778 E: mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au www.markevansfinejewellery.com.au

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jewellery Design awarDs

mark evans fine jewellery Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: POA

Engagement Ring 18ct White gold engagement ring, featuring a Radiant cut Yellow Diamond, surrounded by F/vs Diamonds in the plate, and PavĂŠ set Diamonds in the shoulders.

maRk EVans finE jEwEllERy shop 3 - 45 The Esplanade, Cotton Tree, sunshine Coast, QlD P: (07) 5443 2778 E: mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au www.markevansfinejewellery.com.au

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Jewellery design awards

Melissa Baldock Category: All Rings (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $230

Convict Brick Ring I created this ring with the intention of bringing back to life a convict brick resourced from the demolition of a dilapidated convict built outhouse. The shape and form are important aspects in the story that is associated with this piece. I wanted to preserve a piece of history, open up a conversation about the past while simultaneously showing respect to the original maker of the brick. The original maker being one of the many convicts who were transported to Tasmania, to colonize and build the island state to what it is today. By recycling the original convict brick which is imbued with the energy of the original maker, the piece is more a collaboration of the past craftsperson with myself. Tasmania’s convict history tells a story of crime, punishment, toil, endurance and survival in some of the severest, yet most beautiful environments in the world.

Melissa BalDoCk P: 0424 609 357 e: melbaldock@hotmail.com

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Jewellery Design awarDs

minzenmay Category: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $46,970

Diamond Engagement / Wedding Ring Set Seed Pods of Love...1.65cts of marquise diamonds embraced by platinum seed pods. Protected and embodied are the 0.15cts of Argle pink hearts with an arrow always leading back to You. Handmade in 18ct rose gold and platinum.

minzEnmay P: (03) 59752439 E: info@minzenmay.com.au www.minzenmay.com.au

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Jewellery deSign awardS

PhilliP Schmidt - PlatinumSmith Category: Bridal Jewellery (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: POA

Hinged Clasp The hinged piece is made in remedy to the size of the pearl, which doesn’t allow space for fingers to reach the pearl side of the clasp. After making a heavy duty hinge and heavy platinum pieces with a secondary hinge at the top, we have crafted a catch that will not wear away over time, as is a major problem with platinum made in this style.

PHilliP SCHmiDt - PlatinumSmitH 808B, 125 Swanston St, Century Building melbourne, ViC P: (03) 9663 0777 www.platinumsmith.com.au

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Jewellery Design awarDs

ralf fisch fine Jewellery Category: All Rings (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $2,495 Entry Piece: A

Angeline 18ct yellow gold handmade dress ring with golden beryl.

RAlf fisCh finE JEwEllERy DEsignER: JAnE BulmER - JEwEllER: RAlf fisCh P: (03) 9762 6953 E: info@ralffischjewellery.com.au www.ralffischjewellery.com.au

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Jewellery Design awarDs

ralf fisch fine Jewellery Category: All Rings (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $2,595

Collaborate & Listen 18ct white gold handmade dress ring with HPHT diamond.

RaLf fisCh fine JeweLLeRy DesigneR: RaLf fisCh - JeweLLeR: angeLa Cunningham P: (03) 9762 6953 E: info@ralffischjewellery.com.au www.ralffischjewellery.com.au

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Jewellery Design awarDs

ralf fisch fine Jewellery Category: Mens Jewellery (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $4,095

Glacier 18ct grey gold and fused 18ct rose gold gents ring with baguette and princess cut diamonds.

Ralf fisCh fine JewelleRy DesiGneR: Ralf fisCh - JewelleR: Ralf fisCh P: (03) 9762 6953 E: info@ralffischjewellery.com.au www.ralffischjewellery.com.au

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Jewellery Design awarDs

ralf fisch fine Jewellery Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Cad Assist Value: $6,810 Entry Piece: A

Grid Ring Multi tone 9ct and 18ct grid style ring with bronze zircon.

Ralf fisCh finE JEwEllERy DEsiGnER: anGEla CunninGham - JEwEllER: anGEla CunninGham P: (03) 9762 6953 E: info@ralffischjewellery.com.au www.ralffischjewellery.com.au

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JeweLLeRy desiGn awaRds

Renee Hudson – LeGassick Category: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) Design: Cad Assist Value: $74,895

White Gold Cushion Cut Diamond Engagement Ring 18ct White gold engagement ring featuring yellow gold embellishments. The centre stone is a 3.01ct GIA certified cushion cut diamond. The diamond halo is grain set with .01ct round brilliant cut diamonds. This ring features kite shape yellow gold embellishment details that are hammer set with 2 x .05ct Carre cut diamonds. Total diamond weight is 3.26cts. The inspiration behind this piece comes from elements of architecture and the structures of grand designs seen in historical buildings; a palace to hold the diamonds.

REnEE HuDson - LEGassiCk Shop 1558A, Pacific Fair Shopping Centre, Hooker Blvd, Broadbeach, QLD P: (07) 5538 5611 E: pacificfairworkshop@legassick.com.au www.legassick.diamonds

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RobeRt Paul Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $60,000

Mercedia Rose Diamond Cocktail Ring A Palladium, 18ct Green and Rose Gold “Mercedia Rose” cocktail ring featuring one 1.92 carat Mercedia cut diamond.

RobeRt Paul Shop 4, 139 – 141 Pacific Highway, Charlestown, NSW P: (02) 4943 3403 E: 
rob@robertpaul.com.au www.robertpaul.com.au

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Jewellery DeSign awarDS

Samantha kelly Jewellery Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $6,500

Rhodolite Garnet and Diamond Dress Ring Handmade 9ct two tone intricate dress ring set with rhodolite garnets and diamonds. Featuring detailed filigree sides and hand engraved decoration.

Samantha Kelly - Samantha Kelly JewelleRy P: (04) 5995 5680 e: samantha@skjewellery.com.au www.skjewellery.com.au

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Samantha kelly Jewellery Category: Accessories (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $15,500

Masquerade Mask Handmade 9ct rose gold and silver intricate filigree masquerade mask set with cubic zirconia and featuring interchangeable feathers.

SaMantha Kelly - SaMantha Kelly Jewellery P: (04) 5995 5680 e: samantha@skjewellery.com.au www.skjewellery.com.au

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Samantha kelly Jewellery Category: Necklaces (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $7,500

Ametrine and Diamond Pendant Handmade 18ct two tone Art Deco style pendant featuring 25ct ametrine centre stone surrounded by amethyst, citrines and diamonds.

SAmAnthA Kelly - SAmAnthA Kelly Jewellery P: (04) 5995 5680 e: samantha@skjewellery.com.au www.skjewellery.com.au

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SilvermiSt Studio Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $20,000

Diamond Dress Ring 750 White and Pink gold set with 1.04ct centre diamond, 0.66ct small diamonds and pink sapphires.

Tim Peel - SilVeRmiST STuDio 238 maroondah Hwy, Healesville, ViC P: (03) 5962 5470 e: studio@silvermiststudio.com.au

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SilvermiSt Studio Category: Opals (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $4,900

Opal Earrings Boulder opal split set into 750 yellow gold half bezel earring with a semi halo of diamonds.

Tim PEEl - SilVErmiST STuDiO 238 maroondah Hwy, Healesville, ViC P: (03) 5962 5470 E: studio@silvermiststudio.com.au

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SilvermiSt Studio Category: Pendant Design: Handmade Value: $1,995

Pendant/Brooch Pendant/brooch of 925 silver and 999 silver inlaid with 750 green gold and set with 12mm round Almandine garnet and 10x5mm marquise Almandine garnet hung on a heavy 925 silver cable chain and fitted with a double stainless steel pin.

Tim Peel - SilVermiST STuDio 238 maroondah Hwy, Healesville, ViC P: (03) 5962 5470 e: studio@silvermiststudio.com.au

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xennox diamonds Category: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $11,995

Valentino 18ct hand crafted diamond engagement ring, with 1 x 0.75ct F SI passion8 diamond, 28 = .49ct F SI diamond set scrolls, 46 = .24ct, 2 = .02ct Fancy Argyle Pink diamonds set into the side of the engagement ring.

Karl SChwanteS - xennox DiamonDS level 2, 141 Queen St mall, Brisbane, QlD P: (07) 3210 6288 or 0403 623 030 e: Karl@xennoxdiamonds.com.au www.xennoxdiamonds.com.au

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xennox diamonds Category: Engagement Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $12,500

Elyse 18ct hand made diamond engagement ring, containing a 0.90ct F SI round brilliant cut diamond, 36 = .37ct F SI round brilliant cut diamonds set into the side of the setting into the rose gold tulip petals, and rose gold scrolls.

Karl SChwantES - xEnnox DiamonDS level 2, 141 Queen St mall, Brisbane, QlD P: (07) 3210 6288 or 0403 623 030 E: Karl@xennoxdiamonds.com.au www.xennoxdiamonds.com.au

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xennox diamonds Category: All Rings (up to $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $4,990

Adeline 18ct white gold hand made ring, featuring .47ct F SI round brilliant cut diamond, and 2 = .03ct F SI round brilliant cut diamonds. The ring also has a milgrain ribbon line feature on the side of the ring.

KArl SChwAnteS - xennox DiAmonDS level 2, 141 Queen St mall, Brisbane, QlD P: (07) 3210 6288 or 0403 623 030 e: Karl@xennoxdiamonds.com.au www.xennoxdiamonds.com.au

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xennox diamonds Category: Necklaces (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $10,800

Elizabeth 18ct White gold hand made diamond pendant, featuring 1.63ct F SI round brilliant cut and pear cut diamonds. All diamonds are share claw set and the pendant features a slider function.

Karl SChwantES - xEnnox DiamonDS level 2, 141 Queen St mall, Brisbane, QlD P: (07) 3210 6288 or 0403 623 030 E: Karl@xennoxdiamonds.com.au www.xennoxdiamonds.com.au

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Jewellery design awards

xennox diamonds Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: $27,900

Charlotte 18ct white gold hand made diamond ring containing 1.54ct F Y cushion cut diamond, 124 = 1.02ct F SI round brilliant cut diamonds 2 = .11ct Argyle pink diamonds.

Karl SChwanteS - xennox DiamonDS level 2, 141 Queen St mall, Brisbane, QlD P: (07) 3210 6288 or 0403 623 030 e: Karl@xennoxdiamonds.com.au www.xennoxdiamonds.com.au

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xennox diamonds Category: All Rings (over $5,000) Design: Handmade Value: POA

Lisa One hand made rhodium plated 18ct white gold ring containing 1 x 1.02ct F SI2 triple excellent certified round brilliant cut diamond and 4 = 1.00ct E SI pear cut diamonds with 144 = 1.35ct E SI round brilliant cut diamonds.

KarL SChwanteS - xennox DiamonDS Level 2, 141 Queen St mall, Brisbane, QLD P: (07) 3210 6288 or 0403 623 030 e: Karl@xennoxdiamonds.com.au www.xennoxdiamonds.com.au

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DANNY LEE // PH: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171

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bastian inverun // PH: (02) 9630 6619

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breuning // PH: (02) 9630 6619

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02 PhotograPhy // tandy rowley

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creations // PH: (02) 6295 1763

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both pages: xennox DiamonD worlD // ph: (07) 3210 6288

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ETERniTy FinEly CUT DiamOnDS // www.ETERniTyDiamOnDS.COm.aU RUTHERFORDS // PH: (03) 9650 7878

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This page: ausTralian ChoColaTe DiamonDs by eTerniTy Finely CuT DiamonDs // www.aCDiamonDs.Com.au opposiTe page: xennox DiamonD worlD // ph: (07) 3210 6288 198


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DANNY LEE // PH: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171

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both pages: mark evans fine jewellery // ph: (07) 5443 2778

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both pages: minzenmay // ph: (03) 5975 2439

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Ian SHarp // pH: (03) 9866 4983

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Pearl aFFaIr Pearls possess a tempting kind of beauty and enjoy an exalted status in history, art and language. More importantly, pearls also perfectly adorn the human body. Pearls are among the world’s most coveted gemstones, making their appearance more than 530 million years ago in the Age of Dinosaurs. From the Roman Empire and Renaissance Europe, to imperial China, India, and Russia, to ancient North America and the present day Australia, they have been treasured, sought, traded, bought, and stolen. Arriving in finished condition from their biological sources – saltwater pearl oysters and freshwater pearl mussels – they have long fascinated both scientists and queens alike. Pearls have been popular throughout the ages, in particular the Greco-Roman period, the Renaissance period, the Qing dynasty of China, the Gilded Age and more notably, present day. With the democratisation of pearls, they are now not only the stuff of rich and royals. The traditional gift for a 30th wedding anniversary, pearls were once too precious for all but nobility. Today however, pearls are given to celebrate birthdays, weddings, anniversaries and other special occasions.

A PEARL’S BEGINNING As we now understand it, pearl formation is a simple extension of shell formation in which the shell-forming tissue coats a foreign object that cannot be dislodged. Today’s science of periculture takes advantage of this process by intentionally implanting an object to be coated within the mollusc’s body and nurturing it in controlled conditions while the mollusc produces a cultured pearl. The formation of a natural pearl, also called a fine pearl, differs only in that the foreign object intrudes accidentally. In this sense, any pearl formed by a living mollusc, whether natural or cultured, is 'real'. Today, about 90 per cent of 'real' pearls on the market, except pre-twentieth-century pearls from antique or estate sources and certain specialty pearls, are cultured pearls. Kokichi Mikimoto was not the first to culture pearls, but he did pioneer the production of spherical pearls on a commercial scale. As the son of a Japanese noodle maker, Mikimoto sent his cultured

creations to London in 1919. He revolutionised the industry with his discovery that nuclei cut from US mussel shells improved culturing success rates. Although modern pearls are often associated with Japan or the South Seas, until early in the twentieth century most of the world’s marine pearls came from the Indian Ocean, in particular the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Mannar. These regions dominated the international pearl trade for more that forty centuries, yielding the famous pearls belonging to Cleopatra, Julius Caesar and Marco Polo.

LUSTING AFTER LUSTRE The properties that make pearls beautiful and precious – their lustre, colour, translucency, and iridescence – are due to their physical and chemical composition. Because they are produced by the same kind of tissue that makes molluscan shells, pearls and shells share many properties. The mother-of-pearl that coats the inside of the pearl oyster’s shell is the same substance that pearls are made of, and is the substance that causes both of them to be iridescent. However, the shape of a pearl – its roundness and the fact that it consists of concentric layers of nacre – brings out these qualities better than a flat surface. It is this combination of shape, microstructure, and chemical composition that gives pearls their unique character. Although the most familiar pearls are small perfect spheres, they are more commonly irregular, ranging from button to baroque, and from minute to massive. Within these basic categories and definitions, there can be many variations. Some pearls, for example, develop with one or more grooves or rings encircling them. These pearls are known as ringed or circled. Similar to ‘cut’ being the most important factor of a diamond, the shape of a pearl plays a major factor in determining its value. Near-round pearls are considered the most valuable because of their rarity. At the same time, baroques can be extremely unique, thus increasing their desirability.

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Jewellery // Ian Sharp Image // Gazi Photography

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GIFTS OF THE SOUTH SEA Quintessentially Australian, this unique, organic South Sea jewel often touches the hearts of anyone who visits Broome, which continues to be one of the world’s major suppliers for gem quality pearls today. South Sea pearls – the so-called ‘Rolls Royce’ of pearls – are de rigueur in exclusive Paris boutiques, and specimens offset with diamonds are everywhere. It was 1861 that was the defining year in Broome’s history, when a new species, the pearl oyster Pinctada Maxima was discovered in Roebuck Bay and turned out to be the largest pearl shell in the world. As Broome pearls mature in two rather than four years like Japanese pearls, and they are also twice as big, the local pearling industry boomed and continues to do so today. Where Japan’s Akoya pearls average 7mm in diameter and cultured in small oysters, South Sea pearls grow in the world’s largest. Although South Sea pearls range from the black Tahitian beauties, to the gold examples from the Phillippines and the alluring Australia whites, they comprise just one per cent of the global pearl market. Of this, Australia supplies more than half.

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chOOSIng PeARlS Lustre: look for the pearl with the highest lustre, and take note of how it reacts back to you. Avoid dull or chalky pearls. Colour: There are white, black, gold and green pearls to choose from, so pick pearls that suit your skin tone. Shape: A matter of personal opinion, you can choose a big or small pearl, be it round, button or baroque shaped. Try it on and take note of how it sits in relation to you. The most valuable shape is a perfect sphere. Surface integrity: All pearls will have some marks on them, however when choosing a piece to wear, make sure that the marks aren’t facing outwards.


Jewellery // Creations Image // Tandy Rowley

FUTURE OF PEARLS These days consumers remain educated with how pearls are formed by pearl oysters and pearl mussels and this has enhanced the appeal of pearls, emphasising the unique nature of this gem. Undoubtedly, pearls are prized as intrinsically beautiful objects because of their lustre, colour, shape, and silky surface. However, it is the historical associations of pearls with purity, refinement, religious virtue, glamour, and wealth that prevail in our thinking of

pearl as the queen of gems. With the demographic of women who purchase pearl jewellery increasing dramatically, it can be understood that pearls have now become an acknowledged fashion item, moving away from the 'strand of grandmother’s pearls' perception. Australian women are not afraid to wear them, as a classic strand or with different coloured stones. Pearls will always be an essential part of a woman's wardrobe.

pearls of wisdom 1

Virtually all pearls today are ‘cultured or ‘cultivated’. Harvesting ‘natural’ pearls was compromised by water pollution, tsunamis and other phenomena that made it difficult to leave the oysters safely in water long enough to grow sizable pearls.

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The oldest known pearl jewellery fragment was found in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess who died in 520 B.C.

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Pearls take colour from the inside of their shell in which they are growing. They range from white gold to gold, and from purple to black.

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Pearls are actually quite soft and score between 2.5 and 4.5 on the Mohs scale. This scale, ranging from 1 to 10, is used to measure mineral hardness. Diamonds score a 10.

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Love, money, protection and luck are believed to come to the wearer of cultured pearls.

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Mikimoto is reputed to have swallowed two pearls everyday of his life from the age of twenty to maintain and improve his health. The Chinese have also used pearls medicinally for thousands of years.

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The demand for pearls dropped when diamonds were discovered in the early 1700s. As they became more affordable than pearls, the demand for diamonds soared. When pearls tried to compete, they lost some of their attraction due to imitations and poor quality. Unfortunately, this led to a worldwide decline in pearl consumption, although in the late 1700s they gained ground again when new pearl sources were discovered.

The Persian Gulf was one of the main sources of natural pearls for centuries, as were Venezuela and Panama where pearls were discovered by Christopher Columbus and Vasco de Balboa on their travels.

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EmEralds to Enthrall, EnticE and Enchant During the past decade, it seems, we have discovered – or rediscovered – emeralds. By Simon Garner.

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Both pages: Jewellery // Rutherford Images // Anthony Masci

Considered one of the big four when it comes to precious stones, along with sapphires, rubies and diamonds, they are a popular option for engagement rings and other items of special occasion jewellery. The beguiling, vivid green colour of this most precious of stones in the beryl group is unparalleled in the gemstone world. It derives from the presence of the element chromium. Vanadium and iron can also produce a green hue, and some emeralds contain traces of these elements too. In most parts of the world though, with the US a notable exception, it is chromium that defines an emerald. A green stone without it is referred to simply as green beryl. The most desired and valuable emeralds are medium dark toned stones that are slightly bluish-green with vivid saturation. They’re often referred to as Colombian emeralds, and while the South American country is where most, and the finest, of the world’s emeralds are mined and produced, ‘Colombian emeralds’ is a term that is often used to describe any high quality stone, regardless of its origin. They have also been mined in Australia – as early as the late 1800s, and as recently as the 1990s. However, the only Australian emerald that has generated worldwide recognition and international demand is a synthetic version known as the Biron emerald, which has been produced in Perth over the past couple of decades. Laboratory-produced emeralds have the same chemical composition as those that come out of the ground, but without the inclusions, cracks and fissures that are characteristic of the natural variety. Almost invariably natural emeralds are treated with oil or resin to mask the inclusions, and although they rate quite highly on the Moh scale of hardness (7.5 – 8), they are usually considered to be quite brittle because of their inclusions. Prices for high-quality emeralds, including the much-prized Colombian variety, have taken off in recent years, and sales here

and around the world indicate our love affair with these irresistibly enigmatic stones is far from over. It’s an affair with a long history. Emeralds were sold in the ancient market of Babylon more than 4000 years ago. They are prominent in Greek mythology and the Bible. In South America the rapacious Spanish Conquistadors tortured the Incan rulers until they revealed the location of the amazing Muzo emerald mines in 1557. Located in the western foothills of the eastern range of the Colombian Andes and now within Colombia’s borders, they are still a source of some of the world’s highest quality emerald. The Romans believed that wearing the precious stones helped to revitalise the soul, and famed Roman author, naturalist and military commander, Pliny the Elder, declared that jewellers could soothe their weary eyes simply by gazing into an emerald. From Cleopatra, who owned the famed emerald mines of Egypt more than 2000 years ago, to Catherine the Great to the Maharajahs and Moguls of India, including Shah Jahan who built the Taj Mahal – notable and powerful figures in history have been enchanted by this unique gem. Napoleon Bonaparte presented the stunning Beauharnais Emeralds to his step-daughter for her wedding in 1806. Across the Channel a century later, when England’s Princess Mary proudly wore an emerald engagement ring in public, it became the stone of choice for thousands of women across the nation. John F. Kennedy slipped a gorgeous gold ring on Jacqueline Bouvier’s finger when he proposed in 1953. It featured a 2-carat diamond and 2-carat emerald surrounded by baguette diamonds – even back then, it cost the future US president more than a million dollars. Engage with emerald – you don’t have to be an aspiring president’s wife, pharaoh, princess or maharajah to look a million dollars, and live the dream!

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One of the world’s most famous sapphires sits surrounded by diamonds in the engagement ring Prince Charles presented to Lady Diana Spencer in 1981, and which is now worn by Princess Katherine.

SurpriSing SapphireS Sapphires – they might surprise you. By Simon Garner.

You’re probably most familiar with the rich blue-coloured variety, but they actually come in many hues – clear, pink, yellow, orange, green, purple, red…although the red ones are better known as rubies. There are bi-coloured sapphires, and those that change colour, elegantly transitioning from blue in daylight to purple under incandescent light. If you’re opting to feature a sapphire in your engagement ring, you’re in illustrious company. Their richness and purity of colour, and stunning visual properties, have immersed them in mystique and made them a coveted object of desire for millennia. One of the world’s most famous sapphires sits surrounded by diamonds in the engagement ring Prince Charles presented to Lady Diana Spencer in 1981, and which is now worn by Princess Katherine. Napoleon Bonaparte gave his beloved Josephine an engagement ring in 1796, which showcases a pear-shaped sapphire next to a pear-shaped diamond, on a simple gold band. It sold at auction recently for close to a million dollars. But people treasured them thousands of years before that – the ancient Romans polished sapphires they wore as jewellery, and many believed they protected their wearers from evil. They have long been used to symbolise nobility and faithfulness. There were medieval kings with a penchant for the exquisite stones,

believing they protected them from enemies, and there were plenty throughout Europe who trusted the transcendent powers of sapphires to cure eye diseases and preserve chastity, no less. Today, the allure of the sapphire is purely aesthetic, although it’s not out of place to call their properties somewhat magical. Rare varieties exhibit a phenomenon called the star effect, or asterism whereby a six-ray star pattern appears to float across the surface of the stone when viewed under light. In geological terms, gem-quality sapphire is rarer than diamond. Its composition is corundum – a crystallised form of aluminium oxide. Like all corundum, sapphires are among the most durable naturally occurring materials in the world. On the Mohs Hardness Scale, they score 9 out of 10 – the only natural item that can scratch their surface is diamond. Their durability also makes them an impeccable choice for engagement rings, and, indeed, other special pieces of frequentlyworn jewellery. Hardness and durability also mean sapphire has industrial applications – the Apple Watch has lab-created sapphire glass in its screen – meaning you can now wear this remarkable material on your wrist as well as your finger! Sapphires – surprising, delighting and charming lovers of fine jewellery for many millennia past...and doubtless, many ahead.

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Gown // Rose Zurzolo Couture Image // Gazi Photography

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Jewellery // Catanach’s Photography // Tord Johnston

THE GOLDEN RULE Choosing your wedding ring is one of the most exciting moments in your life. Your wedding ring will be a symbol of your love and commitment, quickly becoming a permanent feature on your finger – so it’s important to put thought into which type of wedding ring is the one for you.

COMPLEMENT YOUR ENGAGEMENT RING The number one rule to follow when you’re choosing your wedding ring is ensuring it complements your engagement ring. You need to take into account how the design of your engagement ring will influence your wedding ring’s design. Ideally, the wedding ring should complement your engagement ring, rather than distract from it. This doesn’t mean your wedding ring has to be plain or boring, it just means you need to choose a wedding ring that works with your engagement ring. You’ll want a ring that looks like it is designed to be paired with your engagement ring.

SHAPE To help you choose a wedding ring that complements your engagement ring consider the shape of the band of your engagement ring. When a straight edged ban is worn beside an engagement ring that has a unique or curved band, the rings won’t fit snugly. Engagement ring designs that have a straight edged band should co-exist with a straight edged wedding ring. If your engagement ring has a unique band shape or has a gemstone setting that sits low enough to prevent a straight wedding ring

design from sitting neatly and evenly against it, it should be paired with a fitted or curved wedding band. If your engagement ring requires a fitted or curved wedding band, do not be alarmed. This is quite a common scenario and many women wear wedding rings that aren’t straight edged to achieve a beautiful fit with their engagement rings.

METAL Another point to consider is the metal of your engagement ring. The most common rule is to match the metal of your engagement ring to your wedding ring for a uniformed look. Switching up metals between your rings, for instance pairing a white gold engagement ring with a yellow gold wedding ring is a steadfast way to make your rings appear mismatched. While mixing metals can be quite fashionable and on trend, it’s probably best to avoid this when you’re selecting two items that will always be worn beside each other, day in and day out. If your engagement ring is very unique and it’s difficult to find a perfectly matched wedding band, focus on matching the metals. If your engagement ring and wedding band are made of the same metal they’ll appear similar enough to look like an ideal fit.

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Franco JewellerS

The FineST in Jewellery FaShion

All Images // Chris Clinnick Photography

When it comes to jewellery design, franco Jewellers, a well-established family business launches exclusive collections and offers beautifully crafted custom-made individual pieces.

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A creative passion for fashion and accessories runs in the Franco family. It began when Franco Ceresiani migrated from Italy in 1956 after completing a jewellery and watchmaking course. Two years later he started a career as a jeweller – first working in Ballarat for Thomas Jewellers, then moving to Melbourne where he managed the shop for Simpson Jewellers, before deciding to make his own mark in the industry.

The bouTiques Franco opened his first jewellery shop in the city centre of Melbourne in 1968, just metres away from the GPO. The Elizabeth Street shop was the beginning of a successful family business, that grew to three stores over three decades. Franco Jewellers was one of the only Italian jewellers located in the CBD at the time, and as a result, built a strong and dedicated clientele. Featuring imported Jewellery and Swiss watch brands, Franco’s success climbed and the range of jewellery offered expanded. Introducing many luxury Italian jewellery house brands

to Melbourne never seen before, the likes of Ponte Vecchio Gioielli, Bianchi Gioielli and Anna Maria Cammilli. Today, Franco Jewellers has a boutique retail flagship store located in Chadstone Shopping Centre and a Collins Street boutique showroom where customers can make an appointment to discuss and design custom-made pieces, as the store of Chadstone. Franco’s daughters, Silvana and Daniela Ceresiani, play a major part in the company’s aesthetic. Under their astute eyes, and together with their mother, Connie Ceresiani, Franco Jewellers also showcases highly successful Italian collections. “We decided to keep both boutiques as we were able to maintain quality, more high end stock, and personalised service as there is a family member in both stores,” Daniela said.

ReinvenTing The family business Daniela and Silvana’s love of jewels came from being involved in their family’s trade.


Creating a niche market by sourcing the latest collections from international jewellery fairs, Franco Jewellers is constantly exploring new avenues and remaining one step ahead.

“I worked with my father and have grown up surrounded by gemstones, diamonds and magnificent jewellery,” Daniela said. With the help of Franco and Connie, they learnt the ropes and after graduating from university, they both decided to join the family business, where they have worked for almost 20 years. During that time, the business has reinvented itself to become a Jewellery house that is less mainstream and more upmarket. Creating a niche market by sourcing the latest collections from international jewellery fairs, Franco Jewellers is constantly exploring new avenues and remaining one step ahead. In terms of trends, Daniela has noticed a strong move towards colour this year. Colour has always been a strong characteristic of gemstones. Although, not as high in value as diamonds, coloured gems have been the stones of choice for the trendier, more fashionable set – and this year is no exception.

Customers are also able to have one of Franco’s qualified jewellers handcraft a ring, or other stunning pieces, that are individually designed for each client. Throughout the process the service is excellent, with a personal touch on which the business prides itself. Franco’s collections showcase the best in Italian design, including Gucci, Gival Jewellery , Kailis Pearls and Moro & Ognissanti fashion jewels. A range of Swiss watch brands is also carried, including U-Boat, Fortis and more. “Our philosophy is to maintain highest level of service together with quality at reasonable prices where we take that extra step to make sure everything is quality controlled,” Daniela said. Franco Jewellers is located at Shop 479, Chadstone Shopping Centre in Chadstone. The CBD showroom is at Suite 904/220 Collins Street in Melbourne. For more information visit www.franco.com.au

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Jewellery // Robert Paul Image// Sarah Candlin Photography

// INTELLIGENCE

a diamond connoisseur By Simon Garner.

A designer and crafter of fine quality jewellery needs to be constantly inspired. For Robert Paul, it’s not about following trends but rather designing and creating something unique for each customer. In fact his creative inspiration tends not to come from jewellery at all – it’s derived from studying design and engineering in other fields. “I look at really well designed products and try to break them down to their basic form,” he said. I try to work out the reasoning behind the design and then take that formula across to jewellery.” “I don’t take inspiration from other jewellers, rather I like my designs to reflect something new and innovative in jewellery.” Achieving timeless beauty in design is something relatively few are able to achieve – yet so much of Robert’s jewellery is exactly that – timeless in design, elegance and splendour. “The key to creating a timeless piece is simplicity, but with an interest or subtlety to it,” he said. “At first glance it needs to look simple, but the more you look at it, the more you see the subtle differences that make it interesting.” Robert has been a successful designer and manufacturer of hand made jewellery in the Hunter Region for the past 36 years. He says a creative mind and a love for working with his hands from a young age, led to his taking on an apprenticeship as a diamond setter upon finishing school.

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His real passion for jewellery began when he started designing and making his own pieces. That passion has taken him down many paths. While well known and respected as a diamond specialist, he crafts a range of brilliant designs using various metals, stones and techniques – including his stunning Mokume Gane work. Mokume Gane means wood grain in metal and is taken from the ancient Japanese technique of sword making. “About thirteen years ago I became interested in Mokume Gane. It took at least a year to perfect my own style,” he said. “I make the metal in my workshop using precious metal plates of varying thicknesses and colour combinations that are then fused at high temperatures to form what we refer to as a billet.” “A billet will generally produce around three to four rings. The billets I make can be customized colour and thickness combinations as a customer requests. A section of the billet that will make one ring is then manipulated and has more metal added to create the unique woodgrain pattern before the ring is made,” he said. Mokume Gane can be used to make a whole ring or as a highlight in a piece of jewellery – such as in the shoulders of a ring, or an inlay in a brooch or pendant. For the past 21 years, Robert has been the exclusive Australian stockist of a number of unique and modern diamond cuts that have


This page: Jewellery // Robert Paul Images // Tandy Rowley

Most customers do not realise that how well a diamond is cut is one of the most important things to look for when selecting one.

excellent light return, two of these being the Spirit diamond and the Context diamond. “Most customers do not realize that how well a diamond is cut is one of the most important things to look for when selecting one,” he said. The Context diamond has only eight facets – four on the top and bottom. It looks similar to a pair of pyramids joined at the base. Each Context diamond has a code laser-inscribed on the girdle that is invisible to the naked eye. A design that can only be cut from an octahedron, a very rare and ideal form of crystal, only 1 in 100,000 can be found in the perfect shape for cutting a Context diamond. In a Spirit diamond, there are 32 facets, which are evenly distributed radially around the centre of the stone, with 16 on top and 16 below. Having this arrangement allows light to be focused into an intense illumination. Another fascination of Robert‘s is natural coloured diamonds, or ‘fancies’. They come in a spectrum of colours and can range from light to deeply intense hues. Their rarity makes them sought after by collectors worldwide. About 90 per cent of all Robert’s work is designing and producing hand-made pieces for customers. He says extensive consultation

around an individual’s tastes, preferences and budgets is an important part of creating any customized item. “During my consultation with a customer we discuss a range of things in order for me to get an impression of the kinds of things they like and dislike,” he said. “For example , what they like in fashion, interior design, furniture design – whether they like simple clean lines, or ornate and fancy ones; whether they are bold or reserved.” Robert says for some, the process of having a piece of jewellery made can be quick and easy, but for others more protracted and difficult. “To start things off, I would suggest that firstly a customer has a look on our website at the comprehensive gallery of work I have completed for previous customers.” “Next, make an appointment for a design consultation. This will provide an opportunity for us to talk through the different aspects of the piece, and for me to sketch some designs.” “From there it is a matter of cementing the design and price and then setting a completion date,” he said. Robert Paul Jewellery can be found just off the Pacific Highway in Smart Street, Charlestown, NSW. Enquiries: (02) 49 433403, rob@robertpaul.com.au or visit www.robertpaul.com.au

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Jeweller

Jewellery // Giulians Image // Gazi Photography


// Profiles

bastian inverun silver

Jewellery for eternity... Exceptional design and manufacturing quality are the hallmarks of the German jewellery brand, Bastian Inverun. Since its beginnings in the Hanseatic city of Bremen in 1974, Bastian has been creating unique pieces with great devotion, always with a view to the personal style and individuality of the women who wear it. Our name captures that very spirit. inverun is derived from several Latin words that translate to “precious, genuine and unique”. These are the guiding principles in the creation of our jewellery. Only natural elements including colourful semi-precious gems, freshwater pearls and sumptuous sterling silver are what you’ll discover in our productions. The result is timeless jewellery to stir your emotions. Wear it with love, pride and pure “joie de vivre” Look for Bastian Inverun in your nearest high quality jewellery store or gallery. You can also see our Stockists Page.

BaSTIan InvErun SILvEr P.O. Box 4420 north rocks nSW PH: (02) 9630 6619 FaX: (02) 9630 6679 Email: admin@osjag.com Website: www.osjag.com 240


// Profiles

Breuning “Pure Fashion” siLVer

Since 1927, Breuning has been creating high quality special jewellery for the world-wide market. Located in Pforzheim, Germany, Breuning can be relied upon to deliver typical German precision combined with style and flair. The combination of cutting edge technology and time honoured manufacturing techniques means that you can always expect timeless beauty and prolonged durability from Breuning. A generous number of new releases each season means that you’ll have no trouble finding unique pieces of jewellery that you can call your own. The “Pure Fashion” silver collection is the latest from the Breuning stable. It offers a unique array of designs that incorporate the distinctive Breuning brand into each design, providing a meaningful and fashionable way to identity yourself with this gorgeous jewellery. Bold and contemporary lines that are superbly finished in a rhodium plate are a consistent theme. Some of the designs feature rose and yellow gold plating, white sapphires and sumptuous coloured gems – all guaranteed to attract the eye and turn heads. Wear it and make a statement in true class and style.

BreunInG “Pure FAShIon” SILver P.o. Box 4420 north rocks nSW Ph: (02) 9630 6619 FAX: (02) 9630 6679 email: admin@osjag.com Website: www.osjag.com 242


// Profiles

catanach’s

As the oldest family-owned jeweller in Australia, Catanach’s has been designing and crafting stunning jewellery for over 140 years. It’s a reputation to be proud of – and Catanach’s builds that heritage into both its service delivery and its wonderful range of jewellery. Founded in 1874 by a young English diamond setter, George William Catanach, Catanach’s is now in its fifth generation – guided by the expertise of Amanda and David Catanach. “Catanach’s is famous for its antique pieces and its fine diamonds,” says Amanda. “We’re also very proud of our South Sea pearl jewellery range. Coming from Broome in WA, these are beautifully crafted pearls set in both modern and classic designs.” Catanach’s also deals in the finest Argyle pink diamonds. “The chance to work with these spectacular gems is taken as an honour,” says Amanda. “Such is the rarity of these stones that after cutting they are sent out to worldwide tender,” she says, “We have obtained some magnificent pink diamonds to meet the increasing demand.” When making a personal jewellery purchase, Catanach’s takes into account your individual requirements. “My staff encourage clients to purchase pieces that complement their existing jewellery and, if required, we remake dated pieces,” says Amanda. It’s all part of the Catanach’s heritage.

CATAnACh’S 1212 high Street Armadale VIC Ph: (03) 9509 0311 FAX: (03) 9500 9659 Website: www.catanachs.com.au 244


// Profiles

creations

Creations is something of a rarity in the traditional world of fine jewellery – they have a modern approach, and a keen sense of the fashions of the time. Their designs are timeless, wearable and distinctly “Creations.” They are an established family owned and operated business located in the prestigious suburban centre of Manuka in Canberra. Their state of the art workshop on the premises boasts six resident jewellers and a master diamond setter from Israel. All setting is performed under a microscope to ensure the highest quality finish. Designing and re-modelling is one of Creation’s specialties. Their team of designers and jewellers have won several prestigious national and international jewellery awards. Following their achievements as finalists in the JAA Diamond Jewellery Award ‘Diamond’ category in 2008 and the ‘Platinum’ category in 2010, the team won the coveted bi-yearly award consecutively in 2012 and 2014. The Creations team were also named finalists in both the 2009 and 2015 Diamond Guild Australia Jewellery Awards, and won the ‘Jeweller’ category of the inaugural Jewellery Design and Manufacturing Championship 2015. In their beautiful Canberra store you can feast your eyes on the best Australia has to offer with Autore South Sea pearls, along with white and coloured Australian diamonds. They stock a large range of Tahitian and freshwater pearls, Italian and German gold and silver and of course their own Creations designs featuring diamonds, pearls and exotic coloured gemstones sourced from all over the world. Their friendly and helpful staff consists of experienced designers, gemmologists, valuers and a team of creative jewellers. CreATIonS

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Style Arcade Manuka Canberra ACT PH: (02) 6295 1763 FAX: (02) 6295 1711 email: info@creationsjewellers.com.au Website: www.creationsjewellers.com.au


// Profiles

Photography // Tord Johnston

DANNY LEE DESIGNS

With 35 years of experience in jewellery design and manufacturing, Danny Lee has developed an extraordinary level of artistic skill and knowledge of materials which are clearly reflected in every piece of hand crafted jewellery he makes. After many years of working for several of Melbourne’s most prestigious jewellery houses, Danny achieved his life ambition of opening his own boutique store in 2008. It is at his beautiful store in North Balwyn that his unique bespoke pieces are handmade in-house in conjunction with the most advanced technology used today to create the most intricate pieces of jewellery. Danny specialises in classic and contemporary styles of all jewellery pieces. Having access to a large inventory of GIA certified diamonds from around the world means that Danny can source stones to your specific requirements and at the most competitive prices. You will also be able to have your own jewellery cleaned, repaired or redesigned at Danny Lee Designs. One of his greatest talents is antique jewellery reproduction, which sets him apart from his competitors. The high calibre of Danny’s work is the culmination of his unique experience, detailed skill, and immense passion for his work. With a keen eye for perfection, Danny maintains the highest standard of service and quality to ensure that each and every client’s desires are met. Come in and experience the ambiance of Danny Lee Designs.

DANNY LEE DESIGNS Shop 70B Doncaster Road North Balwyn VIC PH: (03) 9859 1110 or 0417 386 171 Email: dannyleedesigns@bigpond.com Website: www.dannyleedesigns.com 248


Photography // Gazi Photography


// Profiles

Photography // Anthony Masci

Franco Jewellers

Engagement and wedding rings have an emotional significance – something that Franco Jewellers has understood well over the past five decades. The family business operates an exclusive boutique at Chadstone Shopping Centre in Melbourne’s south-east and a boutique showroom in Collins Street in the CBD where clients can make an appointment to discuss and design individually crafted custom-made pieces. Daniela Ceresiani, whose father Franco started the business in 1968, said today Franco’s specializes in showcasing the very best wedding jewellery to make your special day as memorable as possible. “Stunningly beautiful engagement and wedding rings in platinum, titanium, yellow and white gold are a specialty,” Daniela said. “The range includes our own splendidly designed and made-to-order rings, exclusively imported rings and other pieces from Italy, and our service is second to none. We have always prided ourselves on that.” Imported Italian lines include Gucci, Gival and Moro & Ognissanti, and there is also a great range of quality Swiss watch brands including U-Boat, Fortis and more.

FRANCO JEWELLERS Shop 479 Chadstone Shopping Centre Chadstone VIC PH: (03) 9564 7755. Suite 904/220 Collins Street Melbourne VIC Website: www.franco.com.au 250


Photography // Gazi Photography


// Profiles

Photography // Tandy Rowley

GIULIANS

A family business in the true sense of the word. Creating fine jewels and dealing with clients for three generations has given Giulians the expertise to intuitively be able to interpret their client’s desires when it comes to the creation of unique designer pieces. Founded in 1966 by Ivan Vortouni and his wife Vivienne, the young jeweller was brimming with a passion for quality and unique stones. Ivan rapidly built the business to be renowned for its world-class collection of opals and unique custom-made jewels that were true statement pieces. Australian South Sea pearls and high-quality white and pink diamond jewellery became an integral part of Giulians’ unique offering, while their diverse range of classic and contemporary pieces has ensured a constant stream of loyal clients from all over the globe. Now headed by Creative and Managing Director Gary Coffey, who along with his wife Trina and her sister Dana Vortouni head the sales team, and pride themselves on personalised service and the ability to translate their customers ideas into unique pieces reflecting their diverse range of dreams and desires. Gary is an accomplished designer and master jeweller with 35 years’ experience, and who still feels the same passion and satisfaction for each piece he designs and creates for his clients, whether it be the most delicate pair of drop earrings or a totally over-the-top outrageous, statement necklace. Following in his footsteps his son Joel is now also a master jeweller who thrives on the collaborative process and art of creating handcrafted bespoke timeless, cutting edge and unique pieces to suit every taste and budget.

GIULIANS Four Seasons Hotel Level 3 199 George Street Sydney NSW PH: (02) 9247 5630 Email: giulians@giulians.com.au Website: www.giulians.com 252


Photography // Tandy Rowley


// Profiles

photography // Tord Johnston

ian sharp

Leading retail jewellers, Ian Sharp have been satisfying the desires of jewellery lovers for almost 30 years. “Our store has been acclaimed as one of the most elegant and up to date in Australia,” says Ian Sharp. “We have four leading manufacturing jewellers on the premises, so we keep the making process completely in house.” The team boasts an intimate knowledge of design and craftsmanship creating an outstanding collection of contemporary and classic jewellery pieces. Ideal cut diamonds are sourced from Belgium, Israel, New York and India, with South Sea pearls from Broome and gold pieces from Italy. “With the high level of our source materials, we guarantee the best possible quality and price,” says Ian. The Ian Sharp clientele includes celebrities, sports people and pop stars, who all know that the outcome will be exquisitely handmade, individual jewellery pieces. “We pride ourselves on our customer service and ability to interpret and respond to our clients aesthetic desires,” says Ian. His effervescent charm and instinct for design are recognised as the cornerstone of this successful jeweller and have secured Ian Sharp as one of Melbourne’s leading jewellery designers.

IAN SHArp 65 Toorak road South Yarra VIC pH: (03) 9866 4983 Email: sales@iansharp.com.au Website: www.iansharp.com.au 254


Photography // Gazi Photography


// Profiles

Photography // tord Johnston

INA bArry gold & sIlversmIth

Ina Barry’s style could be described as a mixture of Victorian grandeur meets Rock’n Roll, or perhaps Biker-chick meets Elizabethan princess. Her unique style has attracted celebrities including REM and Dannii Minogue. Ina’s eclectic variety of influences include the clean rounded surfaces and reflections of highly polished metal from furniture in the ‘30s, as well as Medieval and Latvian jewellery for their folkloric and magic associations. STUDIO 204, 20-22 MCKILLOP STREET, MELBOURNE Her extensive collection of highly original and stunning designs marries past and present BY APPOINTMENT 0409 39 37 38 with dramatic effect. www.inabarryjewellery.com With a loyal client base returning ina@inabarryjewellery.com time and time again, Ina‘s reputation is such that often has customers order and buy sight unseen. Ina Barry is available by appointment only.

INA BARRY GOLD & SILVERSMITH

INA BARRy goLD & sILVERsMItH studio 204 20-22 McKillop street Melbourne VIC PH: 0409 393 738 Email: ina@inabarryjewellery.com Website: www.inabarryjewellery.com 256


Photography // Steve Cook


// Profiles

Photography // Anthony Masci

keshett Jewellers

Keshett Jewellers has been renowned for its impeccable quality and service for almost 30 years. They pride themselves on being jewellers of distinction and the continued success of this family business has solidified that belief. The team at Keshett Jewellers is proud to welcome you to the newly renovated store to view the stunning range of jewellery available. Keshett Jewellers is home to the most rare and remarkable collection of contemporary jewellery - specialising in uniquely designed modern engagement rings, period jewellery (including original Art Deco, Retro and Edwardian pieces), as well as estate jewellery available for Australian collectors. When you visit Keshett Jewellers, you will see the dedication to craftsmanship and the attention to detail by the sales consultants. It is an unrivalled experience. However, it is the range and variety of jewellery sourced from all around the world that is the pride of this store – they are objects of priceless quality that have to be seen to be believed. Discover objects of timeless beauty and unique designs by visiting Keshett Jewellers today.

KEsHETT JEWEllERs 323-325 little Collins street Melbourne VIC PH: (03) 9654 1514 shop 24-25 The Block Arcade 282 Collins street Melbourne VIC PH: (03) 8590 8560 FAX: (03) 9650 1084 Email: sales@keshett.com.au Website: www.keshett.com.au 258


Photography // Anthony Masci


// Profiles

Photography // Tord Johnston

mark evans fine jewellery

Mark and Shelley Evans, of Mark Evans Fine Jewellery are fuelled by their passion for coloured gemstones. Their primary focus is to captivate their audience with design and colour. “We wanted to introduce people to the amazing array of natural gemstones that nature provides. We have found that like the uniqueness of gemstones, it is becoming more evident that people wish to express their individuality by commissioning bespoke jewellery,” Mark explains. At the heart of their passion is a desire to make a difference to how jewellery is perceived. “It is an heirloom - a moment captured in time, a tangible memory to share with future generations.” As a member of the Gold and Silversmiths Guild of Australia, each piece of jewellery is hallmarked and dated, to capture a moment in time. This focus was also the inspiration behind the design of Mark’s workshop, having embraced the concept of an open view workshop layout where Mark can be observed handcrafting fine jewellery. “The art of jewellery-making has always been perceived under a shroud of secrecy, and with our new workshop design, the art and skill that goes into every handcrafted piece of Mark Evans Fine Jewellery can be appreciated, slowly de-mystifying the art of jewellerymaking,” says Mark. With over 35 years as a goldsmith, Mark is increasingly enthusiastic about the direction that Shelley and Mark’s designs are taking. “We don’t expect our jewellery to appeal to the masses; however we hope our design prowess, technical expertise and attention to detail with each design impress those purveying our work.” Mark and Shelley’s commitment to the fusion of contemporary design, meticulous detail and unsurpassed craftsmanship is what inspires this duo to create their remarkable jewellery. MArk EvAnS FInE JEWEllEry 53 Sugar road Maroochydore QlD PH: (07) 5443 2778 Email: mark@markevansfinejewellery.com.au Website: www.markevansfinejewellery.com.au 260


Photography // Tord Johnston


// Profiles

Photography // Tord Johnston

MDT DESIGN

MDTdesign is what a jeweller should be. More than just a shop MDTdesign is a design house specialising in individually crafting fine handmade pieces of precious jewellery. When you speak to the staff at MDTdesign you speak directly with designers and jewellers – specialists in their field. Whether your aesthetic leans towards the traditional, industrial, modern or bizarre, MDTdesign can craft a piece to suit your taste in a vast array of precious metals and stones. MDTdesign’s signature ‘Chunk’ collection is constantly being updated with new and unique designs. Their latest versions of these include a stunning selection of Australian Argyle pink diamonds. The Mokume Gané range is another collection that is extremely popular, being so unique and such a complex technique. When you order a piece of jewellery from MDTdesign you can be assured that it is a handmade piece crafted to your instructions on the premises by MDTdesign’s jewellers. As designers and jewellers, they are committed to pushing the frontiers of contemporary jewellery design. MDTdesign’s clients can also be assured that diamonds in their piece are of the highest quality and are guaranteed conflict free.

MDT DESIGN 166 Swanston Street Melbourne VIC PH: (03) 9654 6805 FAX: (03) 9650 4401 Email: admin@mdtdesign.com Website: www.mdtdesign.com 262


Photography // Tord Johnston


// Profiles

minzenmay

A historical icon of jewellery on the Mornington Peninsula with a 106 year heritage of the highest-quality skilled craftsmanship, Minzenmay is the trusted home for creating family heirlooms that will be passed down from generation to generation. Minzenmay combines state-of-the-art-technology with the knowledge of more than a century of experience passed down through the family. Paul Kristian Minzenmay along-side his wife Bridie are the third generation to own and operate the family business. As a qualified master jeweller, gemmologist, diamond technologist and registered jewellery valuer, Paul is always aspiring to ensure the legacy of distinction in fine jewellery making. With such a rich history of expertise, the design team - led by Paul himself, are uniquely qualified to guide clients through the process of selecting and creating speciality pieces of jewellery that reflect their personal story. In a one-on-one appointment the talented team will assist you to develop your ideas and choose the perfect solution to suit your individual needs; whether that is the efficiency and precision of the Design Studio System or the romance of the exclusive experience of a fully handcrafted piece by Paul Kristian Minzenmay. All Paul Kristian Minzenmay pieces are sculpted from luxury metals and precious stones in our onsite workshop with Paul’s personal artistic fingerprint. Having the largest on premises workshop on the Mornington Peninsula our jewellers and watchmaker are able to repair and recraft your existing pieces with your most treasured items never leaving the site. In-store, Minzenmay has generous displays of ready to wear jewellery pieces from classic styles to modern design. Peruse high-end designer pieces from Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen, an international luxury brand deeply rooted in a passion for artisanal excellence, specialising in understated fine jewellery. With a hard earned reputation of quality craftsmanship and a long established provider of expert service, a visit to Minzenmay will be sure to stir creative inspiration.

MInzenMAy

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152 Main Street Mornington VIC PH: (03) 5975 2439 email: info@minzenmay.com.au Website: www.minzenmay.com.au


// Profiles

Photography // Tord Johnston

Ralf fisch

Imagine stepping back in time and finding a time honoured jewellers’ workshop ... a place where mass production has not been heard of … a destination where true hand crafted designer jewellery is created by Master Jeweller – Ralf Fisch and his creative team. With over 30 years of design and manufacturing experience, the workshop of Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery is continually pushing the boundaries of what most jewellers call extraordinary! From the early stages of the consultation and design process through to the highly anticipated final reveal of your hand crafted piece of jewellery, Ralf Fisch and his remarkable team are with you every step of the way. They highly value and respect the thoughts and wishes of all clientele and will ensure that these ideals are expertly met. Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery is truly a collaboration of passion, design experience, manufacturing excellence and customer understanding. Whether you’re in the market for traditional, designer or custom made engagement or wedding rings, specialised jewellery pieces or simply a repair, the workshop of Ralf Fisch Fine Jewellery is a destination choice for the customer who wants and experience rather than a purchase.

RalF FIsch 1315 Mountain highway The Basin VIc Ph: (03) 9762 6953 Email: info@ralffischjewellery.com.au Website: www.ralffischjewellery.com.au 266


Photography // Tord Johnston


// Profiles

Photography // Tord Johnston

tishé

With ten years brand heritage TISHE remains one of Australia’s leading lights in jewellery design. Led by Principal Owner Anthony Bates, who has personally clocked up 30 years in the trade, the TISHE studio offers a unique experience. Anthony jokes with his clients when they arrive; “As you can see I work very differently compared to most other jewellery stores.” Anthony continues, “I carry very little stock, other than my master models. If money was tied up in stock, then obviously it would be in the company’s best interests to move it as fast as possible, but that would be contrary to the clients best interests, which is not what TISHÉ is about. I admit I was a little concerned about this approach when we first started, but soon discovered that none of my clients or their referrals desire the ‘over the counter’ or ‘ready to go’ type jewellery. Every project starts with a blank piece of paper and we work from there. “I have learned that there are never two clients exactly the same, everyone is different and has a distinctive style. That is exactly how I approach every TISHÉ project,” he says. Anthony explains the name TISHÉ name (pronounced TISH-A); it came about when he was trying to define the qualities that emphasise his business practice and ethics. “I wrote out five words, Time–Integrity–Service–Honesty and Education that would collectively describe the areas that I strive to excel in with each individual project and the word TISHÉ was born.” Continually embracing new and exciting technologies TISHÉ is revolutionising the jewellery industry. Anybody who has dealt with Anthony at TISHÉ will know that his unique design capabilities, workmanship quality, attention-to-detail and his continuing passion for excellence speak for themselves in his work.

TISHÉ Suite 904 – 227 Collins Street Melbourne VIC PH: (03) 9670 3451 Email: anthony@tishe.com Website: www.tishe.com 268


Photography // Tord Johnston


// Profiles

Photography // Tandy Rowley

XENNOX diamONd wOrld

One might think Xennox Diamond’s story began in 1976 when Wolfgang Schwantes opened the Brisbane jeweller specialising in hand-crafting engagement rings; however, the story really began in 1960 when Wolfgang first fell in love with jewellery. It was in Germany as an apprentice that Wolfgang learnt the art of creating hand-crafted pieces. Over 41 years, the Xennox family has travelled the world in search of the latest trends, drawing inspiration for designs that have seen the business win over ten national design awards, including the prestigious DeBeers Supreme Design Award. Engagement and wedding rings are not only symbols of love but amazing legacy pieces that retell your story for years. As a second-generation family business, Xennox loves that we can begin your story with your engagement ring then continue with you through life’s magic moments. For anniversaries, birthdays and new additions to your family, Xennox Diamonds can create endearing memories. Your engagement ring is special and we understand the importance of making it perfect. Our master jewellers are so dedicated to crafting engagement rings that we won the Jeweller of the Year award at the Wedding and Events of Australia Excellence Awards 2014 and the Passion8 Diamonds Engagement Ring of the Year Award 2015. Recently, we also published the award-winning book Rock Her World – the Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Perfect Engagement Ring to help gentlemen achieve that special magic moment with an engagement ring their partners will love forever. Visit our showroom in Queen Street Mall and make your Xennox experience something you will always remember. From the scotch and champagne bar to the dream-design booth, everything in our store is custom-designed to enhance your shopping experience. Xennox Diamonds – we craft magic memories and we can’t wait to create them with you. XENNOX DIAMOND WORlD level 2 141 Queen Street Mall Brisbane QlD PH: (07) 3210 6288 FAX: (07) 3210 6299 Website: www.xennoxdiamonds.com.au 224


Photography // Tandy Rowley


"In thIs age of fIbreglass, I am lookIng for a gem." - bob Dylan


image: dezine by mauro

OLÉ watches.com.au

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Celebrate the journey, the destination and life’s major events with the OLÉ range of high fashion timepieces. For all stockist enquiries contact: chris@mediaink.com.au

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Jewellery Magazine Issue #15  

The inaugural Australian Jewellery Design Awards were launched in conjunction with the release of Jewellery Magazine Edition #15

Jewellery Magazine Issue #15  

The inaugural Australian Jewellery Design Awards were launched in conjunction with the release of Jewellery Magazine Edition #15

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