FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
ISSUE 98 FEBRUARY 2018 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
N I W lish s A super ty
at stay for two Eden Locke
and top chefs Nadine Levy Redzepi Dominic Jack
Valentine’s Day desserts
FEBRUARY 2018 ISSUE 98
THE MEXICAN DREAM The BBC favourite shares his love of Mexico
The famed food writer’s top family dishes
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Foodies Cook from the heart Published by the Media Company Publications Ltd 26A St Andrew Square Edinburgh EH2 1AF Tel: 0131 226 7766 Fax: 0131 225 4567 www.foodies-magazine.co.uk
FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
ISSUE 98 FEBRUARY 2018 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
A super stylish at stay for two Eden Locke
and top chefs Nadine Levy Redzepi Dominic Jack
Valentine’s Day desserts
FEBRUARY 2018 ISSUE 98
THE MEXICAN DREAM The BBC favourite shares his love of Mexico
The famed food writer’s top family dishes
SPRING BREAKS l VALENTINE’S NIGHT IN l WEDDINGS 001_FFCover_spine_0218.indd 1
Front cover image Downtime by Nadine Levy Redzepi, published by Ebury Press, £27.
EDITORIAL Editor Sue Hitchen Deputy Editor Chiara Margiotta Design Vicky Axelson Editorial Assistant Emily J Hall Production Sarah Hitchen Advertising Design Jamie Smail
EBRUARY is the month of love, so the story goes. For us, there’s no better way to show love than through food, so this month’s recipes are all made to share with those most special. Food expert Anne Shooter’s pink-hued dishes tick all the boxes for a romantic meal, pp. 36-43, while Noma recipe developer Nadine Levy Redzepi puts family first with her cosy dishes designed for meals at home, pp.24-31. For those looking to impress with their cooking skills, take our Valentine’s Night In shopping list as your guide and whip up a dinner to win their heart, p.23. Worried you might need a hand with your kitchen ambitions? Never fear, we’ve pulled together a range of romancecentred classes to help crack any tricky skills for a flawless feast, p.59. If the first date is long behind you and you’re ready to seal the deal, check out our top city wedding venues, favourite cake designers, and sweetest favour makers to help you on your way for the wedding of your dreams, pp.45-47. Meanwhile, if the approach of spring has you longing for escape, BBC favourite Rick Stein takes us to warmer climes with his Mexican feast recipes, pp.14-21, while The Permit Room’s classic cocktails with a Bombay twist will spice up any dinner party. For something
extra special, why not whisk away the apple of your eye for a romantic retreat? With our round up of Scotland’s top country house hotels, planning a trip couldn’t be easier, pp.33-35. Or, for a night out closer to home, we’re exploring the heart of the capital with a little help from the Edinburgh Trams, p.51, plus, reviewing new additions to the restaurant scene on p. 56-57. We all know the best way to the heart is through the stomach, so this month, feast with love. Sue Hitchen, Editor CONTRIBUTORS
Rick Stein MBE is a celebrity chef, TV presenter, restaurateur and food writer.
Nadine Levy Redzepi is a recipe developer at 2 Michelinstarred Noma.
ADVERTISING Business Development Sharon Little SUBSCRIPTIONS Receive a copy of Foodies every month. Only £15 (regular price £24) for 12 issues delivered to your door call 0131 558 7134 or email the editor: email@example.com
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This month BOOKS, TV, WHAT’S ON NEWS SHOPPING
7 9 11
COMPETITION 13 A break for two at Cringletie House RICK STEIN 14 The renowned chef’s top Mexican dishes VALENTINE’S NIGHT IN 23 Your shopping list for the perfect date night at home NADINE LEVY REDZEPI 24 The Noma recipe developer shares her family favourites COUNTRYSIDE RETREATS 33 Our guide to the best Scottish hotels ANNE SHOOTER Pink dishes for Valentine’s
SPRING WEDDINGS 45 From venues, to cakes, to favours we’ve got you covered
CHEF Q&A 48 Dominic Jack shares a warming dish
PRINCES STREET 51 Our eating and drinking guide, all within 5 minutes from the city’s heart INTERIORS Learn to accessorize with plants
INTERIORS REVIEWS COOK SCHOOLS SPA NEWS COCKTAILS
50 54 57 59
NEW BARS OUT & ABOUT
61 64 66 foodies 5
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JOIN US FOR OUR SUMMER FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL
WITH TOP CHEFS inverleith Park 4, 5, 6 august
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BOOKS, TV & WHAT’S ON FOODIES
Cooking the books Eat Up Ruby Tandoh, Serpent’s Tail, £12.99 Celebrate the joy of eating in all its glory with Ruby Tandoh’s latest book, filled with advice, recipes, and handy tips. James Martin’s American Adventure James Martin, Quadrille, £25 Add some American soul to your cooking with James Martin’s top recipes from the US.
The Pioneer Woman
Davina’s Kitchen Favourites Davina McCall, Seven Dials, £20 The latest cookbook from Britain’s TV darling, Davina’s Kitchen Favourites is full of quick, nourishing, family meals you’ll love.
Home cooking gets a ranch-style makeover with Ree Drummond. This month, she’ll be curing all your cravings with her chocolate creations, from triple chocolate tiramisu to crispy chocolate dippers. Plus, brunch gets the unique Ree treatment too as she shares recipes for her mouth-watering cheesy hash browns and hazelnut chocolate chip pancakes. The Pioneer Woman series 15 & 16 continues with double-bills on weekdays on Food Network UK, from 5th February at
What’s on TEMPO TEA CHINESE NEW YEAR TASTING 9 February, Edinburgh Whether you’re a boba aficionado or bubble tea newbie, Tempo Tea’s Chinese New Year tasting evening is the perfect place to discover new and exciting flavours. Sample six different tasty teas, nab a bubble tea gift set, and recieve a voucher for your next visit, all while learning more about the fascinating history of your favourite chilled tea.
VEGAN BURD BREAKFAST CLUB 11 February, Glasgow Plant-based queen, the Vegan Burd, is famous for her veganfriendly reimaginings of old school favourite sweets, but her latest breakfast club at Bloc+ brings the revolution to the brunch scene. The hearty and comforting vegan fry up features scrambled tofu, the classic potato scone, and Bloc’s own homemade vegan black pudding.
CHEESE FEST 10-11 February, Edinburgh Heads up, cheeseboard fanatics: all of your wildest dreams are about to come true. Cheese Fest are making their Edinburgh debut, transforming the Corn Exchange into a cheesy haven. Discover the crispy delights of mozzarella sticks and halloumi fries, take home a selection of traditional cheeses, or try the best mac ‘n’ cheese in town. foodies 7
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CALL 0131 629 5300 ~ SHUCKS@WHITEHORSEOYSTERBAR.CO.UK ~ 266 CANONGATE, EDINBURGH. EH8 8AA WWW.WHITEHORSEOYSTERBAR.CO.UK
TICKLED PINK Discover the brightest gin in town as the colour changing Ink Gin launches exclusively at One Square. Turning from deep blue to vibrant pink, it’s bound to be an Insta-favourite. www.onesquareedinburgh.co.uk
RULE BRITANNIA The Royal Yacht Britannia celebrates her twentieth year ruling the waters as Edinburgh’s most royal attraction. Marking out its renowned success, she brings in 2018 as Scotland’s Best Attraction for the 12th year running, with the highest visitor count on record. www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk
TASTE THE WAY Think you know your chocolate? Test your palate with renowned chocolate expert Iain Burnett at his brand new Chocolate Tasting Masterclass. Take a peek at the chocolate kitchens, discover the techniques behind his truffles, and enjoy a tasting flight of his famed Velvet Truffles. www.highlandchocolatier.com
MASTER OF MALT The Clydeside Distillery have filled the very first casks from Glasgow’s first copper stills in over a century, adding a new string to Glasgow’s bow, and an exciting new addition to Scotland’s whisky scene. Stay tuned! www.theclydeside.com
asts Did you know that Scotland bo 115 different Scotch whisky distilleries? DRAMATIC DRINK-KIN’ New Edinburgh bar, KIN, is welcoming theatre-goers into their cosy cocktail haven. All Playhouse ticket holders are invited to enjoy their signature Beards & Blazers cocktail at a special price of £6, making it the perfect stop for a pre-theatre tipple, or post-show blether. www.fb.com/kin.bar.edinburgh news 9
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Win a country retreat for two at Cringletie House W
HETHER IT’S A romantic escape for two, a relaxed break with a friend, or a dose of much-needed quality time with a family member, everybody could use a cosy retreat from time to time. That’s why we’re offering the chance for one lucky foodie and their guest to take some time off and unwind at the peaceful Cringletie House. Only 30 minutes outside of Edinburgh, the stunning Baronial castle hotel offers guests the perks of country life without the stress of long travels. Boasting 28 acres of tranquil grounds, Cringletie is the perfect place to step away from your hectic everyday and breathe easy in the country air. Stroll by the riverside, discover the nearby waterfall, historic
dovecote, and outdoor sculptures, or enjoy a game of boules or outdoor chess in the walled garden. Plus, as a dog-friendly hotel, you can even take your four legged friend for the ride. To make the most of the activities on offer, try your hand at fishing on the Tweed, or take on the local mountain biking routes, known as some of the best in the UK, while those looking to take it easy can peruse the hotel’s impressive art collection. Complete your prize with a delicious meal in the Cringletie dining room, with a menu created using seasonal ingredients and fresh produce from the hotel’s gardens. After you head back to your cosy room, you’re bound to feel refreshed, rejuvenated, and at peace. l
For your chance to win this great prize, simply answer the following question:
How many acres of land does Cringletie House have? To win, either like our page on Facebook and send us a message with your name and email address or email your details to enter@ foodiesfestival.com
T&C: Entries must be received by 28/02/18. Prize is valid for a one night stay for 2 with dinner and breakfast. Prize is subject to availability and cannot be used in conjunction with any other order. Must be redeemed before 30 April 2018. Prize excludes Bank Holidays and Easter weekend. Entrants and guest must be 18+. No cash alternative. Non-transferrable. Editor’s choice is final. foodies 13
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FOODIES RICK STEIN
On the ROAD
Join Rick Stein on his food journey through California to Mexico, tasting and sharing dishes as he goes
first went to Mexico in 1968. I crossed the border from the USA at Nuevo Laredo and headed for the city of Monterey. That night in a taqueria I ordered some tacos. I didn’t know what they were; I just pointed to some locals eating them and I asked to have the same. The tacos were filled with some cooked meat, I think it was pork, and came with chopped tomatoes, onions, green peppers, which were in fact chillies, and a herb I later realised was coriander. There were slices of lime alnongside and bowl of orange-red sauce. It’s no exaggeration to say that this meal changed my life. My memory is of the sourness of the lime, the freshness and heat of the salad and the red salsa, a comforting mouthful of salty, spicy pork and the warm alkaline smell and taste of corn tortillas. I had never tasted anything so vivid, so demanding, soexciting. It was like listening to Little Richard’s ‘Tutti Frutti’ for the first time, so loud and immediate, a brief and delicious assault on the senses, leaving you wanting more. I spent a couple of months travelling through the country, going to Tampico, Ciudad Valles, Mexico City, Acapulco, Taxco, Guadalajara, Mazatlan, and my love of the food of Mexico was born. I’ve been back to Mexico a few times since then,
filming in northern Mexico, and for holidays with Sas, my wife, on the Pacific coast. It’s a country we’ve both fallen in love with – the people, the bright colours, the dazzling markets, the music, the sense of an ancient land filled with volcanoes and Aztec, Zapotec and Mayan temples, the churches and cathedrals, and the troubled and violent history, which is most arrestingly summed up in the gigantic murals of Rivera, Orozco and Siquieros. And above all it’s the food that brings us back. It’s extraordinary how popular Mexican is becoming everywhere, and the first impressions I had all those years ago are the still the same. Basically it’s about the extraordinary combination of savoury, spicy, fresh and sour. When people say that Mexican food is all the same, it’s all tacos, they miss the point. Tortillas are to Mexican cuisine what pasta is to Italian. They are the framework on which Mexican cooks build incredibly sophisticated variations of flavours and textures. I hope you can gather that like so many who visit Mexico I am besotted with the food. I’ve taken a few liberties and aimed to make things as easy as possible for you to make. But I have tried to explain why Mexican food works for me and why I think it is one of the world’s greatest cuisines. l
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‘I am besotted with Mexican food’
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FOODIES RICK STEIN
Ensenada fish tacos with chilli and coriander For many years the beaches on the north coast of Cornwall were patrolled by Australian lifeguards, originally because they had the surf life-saving skills that were unfamiliar to the locals. For me, this meant many summers of friendship with pleasant Australians, all of whom seemed to be sunny and optimistic. Well, you would be, wouldn’t you, with a summer in Cornwall and lots of locals finding you irresistible? One such lifeguard was Rudi, who used to return year after year. Everyone
Serves 6 12x 15cm corn tortillas 600g cod fillet 100g plain flour, seasoned with a pinch of salt and 6 turns of a black peppermill 1l corn or vegetable oil
For the batter 200g plain flour ¼ tsp salt ½ tsp baking powder 275ml ice-cold beer For the toppings ¼ small white cabbage, finely shredded 1 avocado, stoned, peeled and diced Pico de gallo salsa Hot chilli sauce For the chipotle crema 2 chipotles en adobo 3 tbsp mayonnaise 3 tbsp soured cream Juice of ½ lime
was extremely fond of him – so much so that we filmed a little sequence about a trip he’d made to Ensenada on the Baja California coast, where they made fabulous fish tacos. We cooked some on the beach in Cornwall by the lifeguard hut, and Rudi took Chalky, my Jack Russell, out for a little surfing lesson. Sadly, when back in Australia five years later, Rudi died of cancer and I always thought that one day I’d get to Ensenada and find the tacos.
l Warm the tortillas in a dry frying pan,in a microwave or in the oven. Get your toppings – shredded cabbage, diced avocado, pico de gallo salsa, and hot chilli sauce – ready. Mix the ingredients for the crema and set aside. l To make the batter, sift the flour, salt and baking powder into a roomy bowl. Using a balloon whisk, incorporate the beer until you have a smooth batter. Set aside. l Cut the fish into fingers about 1cm thick. Heat the oil in a large pan to 190°C. Dip a few pieces of fish into the seasoned flour, shake off the excess, then dip them into the batter. Fry for 2–2 1⁄2 minutes until crisp and golden. Repeat until you’ve cooked all the fish, draining each batch briefly on kitchen paper to remove excess oil. Sprinkle lightly with salt. l Serve the fish immediately in warm tortillas, with the toppings on the table for guests to help themselves.
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Serve DIYstyle, with all the toppings in the centre of the table
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FOODIES RICK STEIN
Char-grilled aubergine and feta rolls In Sausalito, just across the bay from San Francisco, there’s an area filled with houseboats. They’re beautiful, not boring little things, and some of them are permanently fixed on floating concrete pads. Others you can genuinely put to sea. Quite a few famous literary and arts figures have rented boats out there and invited friends like Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg and William Burroughs to visit. And it is also where Otis Redding wrote ‘Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay’. I
Serves 4 as a starter or part of a mezze 2 aubergines 4 tbsp olive oil 175g feta cheese 175g ricotta cheese Small handful flat-leaf parsley, chopped 5-6 rasps freshly grated nutmeg 10 turns black peppermill 1 ½ tbsp capers, chopped
To serve 100g mixed rocket, watercress and baby spinach Juice of ½ lemon 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Seeds from ½ pomegranate Salt and pepper
was invited for lunch on a houseboat by Paula and Cory, whose best friend was English and had seen my programmes. In the end about 15 locals showed up, all bringing fabulous food. I know they may have been trying to impress, but they were all people who were used to cooking regularly and eating well and healthily. I remember thinking, this is California, this is good. These lovely aubergine rolls stuffed with feta were brought along by Olivia, one of the guests.
l Cut the aubergines lengthwise into slices about 5mm thick. You should get about 6 slices from each aubergine. Brush the aubergine slices on both sides with oil and grill them in batches on a barbecue or griddle pan for 3–4 minutes on each side until browned, tender and pliable. Set them aside. l Mash the feta and ricotta in a bowl with a fork and add the parsley, nutmeg and black pepper. Stir in the capers. Spoon a generous tablespoon of filling on to the wide end of each aubergine slice and roll it up like a Swiss roll. l To serve, arrange the salad leaves on a platter, dress them with lemon juice and olive oil, then season. Arrange the aubergine rolls on top, seam-side down, and decorate them with pomegranate seeds. Serve at room temperature as a starter or part of a mezze.
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ROSEMARY SHRAGER FOODIES
A fresh veggie addition to a delicious mezze
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FOODIES RICK STEIN
Rhubarb galette Chez Panisse Going to Chez Panisse was inevitably a high point of California for me. Alice Waters at Chez Panisse has for years been my ideal – she runs a small local restaurant serving what’s fresh from the market and with a menu that changes every day – and meeting her only reinforced that. I’ve chosen the rhubarb galette from the many dishes I tasted.
Serves 8 225g plain flour Pinch salt 170g cold, unsalted butter, cut into 1cm cubes 80ml ice-cold water
For the filling 500g rhubarb, cut into 6cm long batons (save any trimmings) Finely grated zest of an orange 200g granulated sugar Pinch salt Juice of ½ orange 1 tbsp muscat dessert wine 30g unsalted butter, melted 30g caster sugar 2 tbsp sugar, for the glaze
The restaurant’s pastry section is the sort of place you’d love your teenager to work, surrounded by Californian citrus fruit, baskets of rose petals and the new season’s rhubarb. Would that every youngster aspiring to become a chef could join such a kitchen. I did ask Alice if my stepdaughter Olivia could do a stage there. And she said yes.
l In a food processor, pulse the flour and salt. Add the butter and process briefly. Sprinkle over the ice-cold water and pulse for about 5 seconds, until just moistened. l Transfer the dough to a floured work surface and knead it 2 or 3 times until it comes together. Pat the dough into a disc. Lay a sheet of baking parchment on your work surface and dust it with flour. Roll out the dough like a pizza to make a 35cm circle, 4–5mm thick. Transfer the parchment to a baking sheet and chill the pastry. l Preheat the oven to 220°C. Toss the rhubarb in a bowl with the orange zest, sugar, salt, juice and wine and mix well. Arrange the rhubarb on top of the pastry and sprinkle over any remaining sugary
mixture. Leave a border of 5–6cm around the edge of the pastry, fold that in and crimp to form a border. Brush the fruit with melted butter and sprinkle with caster sugar, then repeat this process three times. l Bake the galette for 10–12 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 200°C and bake for a further 30–35 minutes. l To make the glaze, cook the rhubarb trimmings with 75ml of water until soft. Strain the liquid from the pulp and add the 2 tablespoons of sugar. Pour this back into the pan and let the sugar dissolve, then reduce to a thick syrup. l Leave the galette to cool, then brush it with the glaze. Serve with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.
The Road to Mexico by Rick Stein, published by BBC Books, £11.99.
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ROSEMARY SHRAGER FOODIES
Serve with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream for the ultimate dessert
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VALENTINE’S NIGHT IN FOODIES
Try serving with elderflower tonic
MACARONS Give the gift of rose macarons, £8.50 mademoisellemacaron.co.uk
GIN The Love Gin is perfect for Valentine’s cocktails, £30 edenmill.com
CHEESE A cheeseboard makes for an elegant end to any meal, from £4.50 cowsandco.com
Love at FIRST BITE
TEA Rosebud tea is sure to amp up the romance, from £5.55 pekoetea.co.uk
Doing Valentine’s at home? These local ingredients make for the perfect date night
CHOCOLATE The classic choccie gift never disappoints, from £12.95 cocochocolate.co.uk
OYSTERS Treat yourself to the ultimate aphrodisiac, £12 for 12 lochfyne.com
Pair with Muscadet for a match made in heaven
STEAK Share the wee fillet roast for restaurant luxury at home, from £24.48 macbeths.com
ICE CREAM Finish off any pud with one of Scotland’s favourite ice creams, from £2.50 equisicecream.com foodies 23
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FOODIES NADINE LEVY REDZEPI
Time for downtime Nadine Levy Redzepi, wife of 2 Michelinstarred Noma Head Chef Rene Redzepi, proves there’s more than one chef in the Redzepi household with her debut cookbook
ou could say my whole life revolves around cooking and eating. It’s not only the family business – both my husband, René, and I work at Noma, the restaurant he co-founded – it’s what helps me relax and feel connected to home and family. It is the thing I look forward to doing every day. As fas as I’m concerned, there is no downtime without something to eat or drink, and when I get into that cooking mode, that’s when my real downtime begins. It’s always been this way for me. I grew up watching my mother cook and when I discovered food programmes on television, duplicating the dishes I saw or trying to recreate things I’d tasted on holidays became a passion. Now that our family and business have grown to include three young daughters, three restaurants, and a not-for-profit foundation dedicated to creating new ways for chefs to explore important food issues, I treasure our downtime more than ever. I try to make space for this daily ritual no matter what else is going on – and whoever might be joining us at the kitchen table. I am never alone in the kitchen. Our dining space, kitchen and living room are all one big room, which makes the kitchen the natural gathering place. Whether we have friends over for dinner or it is just cooking with music playing in the background, it
is always the same: my older daughters, Arwen and Genta, help peel vegetables and fight over who made the vinaigrette yesterday and who gets to make it today. My mother changes the music continuously while our youngest daughter, Ro, joins in by sticking her fingers into everything. This warm togetherness adds an extra dimension of hygge, as we Danes call it, to the ritual of preparing a family meal that makes it all the more pleasurable. I take great pleasure in cooking a proper evening meal every day, not just something quick and lazy even if it’s ‘just’ us. When we entertain, I rarely get fancy and elaborate; rather our guests come and join us for a family meal. One of the many things that I have learned from working at Noma and being with Rene is understanding what makes me immediately feel welcome and at ease. By learning this about yourself, you become better at creating the atmosphere you want in your own home when you have guests. If you are at ease, everyone else will be, too. I’ve served roast chicken to Daniel Patterson and roasted ribs to David Chang. I’m often asked if it’s intimidating to cook for professional chefs, and I’ll admit I was nervous the first time I cooked for René, but I soon realised that chefs spend so much time cooking for other people that they are just happy and appreciate when someone cooks for them! l
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â€˜I treasure our downtime more than everâ€™ foodies 25
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FOODIES NADINE LEVY REDZEPI
Beef-glazed celariac with buttermilk sauce One of the guiding principles of Noma is treating humble ingredients with the same respect we pay to more precious ingredients, and I had that in mind when I created this dish. Celeriac root cooked this way has as much presence on the plate as a slice of roast meat, it’s so beefy and succulent. If you can find full-fat buttermilk, you’ll get a thicker, more delicious sauce that doesn’t separate, but if you can only get non-fat, it will still be good.
Serves 4 2 celeriac, 540g each 1 tbsp rapeseed oil, for the dish 240ml beef or veal demiglace 3 tbsp pine nuts 200g salted butter 120ml rapeseed oil, for deep-frying 2 large leaves curly kale 2 tbsp ParmigianoReggiano, freshly grated 60ml full-fat buttermilk Flaky sea salt Freshly ground black pepper
the oven to 180°C. Peel the celeriac, trimming off any gnarly roots. Rinse off any dirt and dry. Cut each celeriac vertically into 4 slabs, each about 8 mm wide, saving the end pieces for another use. l With the oil, grease a baking dish just large enough to hold the slices in a single layer. Turn the slices to coat with the oil. Bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Flip the pieces and bake for another 30 minutes. l When the celeriac has roasted for 1 hour, pour the demi-glace over the slices and raise the oven temperature to 200°C. Continue baking, basting occasionally, until the celeriac is glazed and tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife and the demiglace is reduced to a few tablespoons, 20 to 30 minutes. If the pan is starting to look dry, stir in 1 or 2 tablespoons of hot water to keep the demi-glace from burning. l While the celeriac roasts, heat a small, dry frying pan over medium heat. Add the pine nuts and cook, shaking the pan every 20 to 30 seconds, until they are lightly toasted. Pour them into a small bowl to cool. Don’t leave the pine nuts in the frying pan – they will keep cooking and burn. l To start the brown butter sauce, cut the butter into tablespoons. Melt in a medium saucepan over medium
heat until the butter is melted and foamy. Continue to cook, stirring constantly with a whisk, until the butter smells nutty and the sediment on the bottom of the pan is light brown, about 2 minutes. Immediately pour the brown butter into a medium heatproof bowl and keep warm at the back of the hob. If the brown butter solidifies, just heat it gently until it melts again. l Place a rimmed baking sheet lined with kitchen towels near the hob. Heat the oil in a small saucepan until it is shimmering. Tear the kale into pieces about the size of a five-pence coin, discarding the tough stems. l Add the kale to the oil a few pieces at a time – it will splatter, so be careful! Cook for just a second or two, until the kale is crisp. Using a slotted spoon, immediately lift the kale out of the oil and drain on kitchen towels. Repeat until all the kale bits are crisped. l Just before serving, sprinkle the celeriac with the Parmigiano and bake until the cheese melts, about 5 minutes. Remove from the oven. l Gradually whisk the buttermilk into the warm brown butter. Divide the sauce among 4 shallow bowls. Add 2 celeriac slices to each, along with a drizzle of the syrupy demi-glace from the pan. Sprinkle with the kale and pine nuts. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve hot.
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Mix up your roast dinner with this hearty alternative
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FOODIES NADINE LEVY REDZEPI
My mother’s chicken curry Once you’ve made the curry blend, this is really just a simple stew that cooks without supervision, filling the house with amazing smells. Cooking the chicken pieces whole gives the curry lots of flavour, but I shred the meat and discard the skin and bones before serving to make it easier to eat. I finish this with a blend of chamomile and salt. It’s not traditional, but the dried flowers have an earthiness similar to coriander seeds.
Makes 8 servings
For the red curry paste 3 fresh red chillies, depending on your taste for spice 1 small shallot 1 inch piece fresh ginger 5 garlic cloves 2 tsp cumin seeds 2 tsp fennel seeds 2 tbsp dried chamomile flowers 2 tsp sweet paprika 90ml rapeseed oil, as needed 1.4 to 1.8kg chicken legs, thighs, breasts and wings 30g salted butter 4 medium onions 900g ripe plum tomatoes, cored 4 tart green apples 200g sultanas 200 g Fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper
l Halve the chillies and remove the ribs and seeds. Chop the chillies finely. Peel and coarsely chop the shallot and ginger. Crush the garlic cloves under the flat blade of a knife, then peel and coarsely chop. Crush the cumin and fennel seeds with a pestle and mortar. Add the chopped chillies, shallot, ginger, garlic and the crushed cumin and fennel seeds to a blender or food processor. Add the chamomile, paprika and 3 tablespoons of oil. Process until smooth, adding more oil if needed to make a smooth paste. If you don’t have a pestle and mortar you can crush the spices on a chopping board under a heavy saucepan. l Heat a very large casserole dish over medium-high heat. Add the remaining oil and heat it. In batches, add the chicken and cook, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 6 minutes. Transfer the pieces to a platter as they are browned. l Add the butter to the casserole dish and let it melt. Chop the onions, adding them to the pan as you go, and cook without stirring until they are browned on the bottom, about 5 minutes. Stir well. Stir in the curry paste and let it cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to stick to the bottom of the pan a bit, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the chicken and any juices on the platter to the pan. Add 720 ml (1. pints) of water. Reduce the heat to low. l Squeeze the tomatoes a little to get out most of the seeds and chop into 12mm pieces. Stir them into the
pan. Peel, core and cut the apples into 2.5cm chunks. Stir the apples and sultanas into the pan. Add a little more water, if needed, to barely cover the ingredients. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil. Season well. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan tightly and simmer the curry for about 2 hours, until the chicken is almost falling off the bones. Stir the curry every now and then to keep the chicken and other ingredients from sticking. l About 30 minutes before you plan to serve, make the rice. Combine the rice and 1 litre of water in a medium-large saucepan. Stir to combine, then bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover the saucepan and cook without disturbing until little air pockets appear on the top of the rice, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let it stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Don’t stir the rice once it is simmering, or it will become sticky. l Just before you serve the curry, use tongs to pick out the pieces of chicken and, when cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the bones. Return the meat to the pan, discarding the skin and bones, and use the tongs to shred the meat into the sauce. Give the curry a little stir and taste it, adjusting the seasonings. Taste again and see what you think. You might want to add even more spices. If you feel you have gone overboard with spices, add a tablespoon of yoghurt. l Chop the coriander leaves and put them in a small bowl. Serve the curry on bowls of rice with raita and coriander on the side.
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ROSEMARY SHRAGER FOODIES
Chamomile flowers add an unusual flavour to this classic curry foodies 29
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FOODIES NADINE LEVY REDZEPI
Giant macaron cake Serves 10 to 12
For the macaron 300g almond flour 300g icing sugar 1 tsp baking powder 8 large egg whites, about 220 g 3 drops red food colouring paste, 300g granulated sugar For the cake 130g plain flour, plus more for tin 3/4 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp flaky sea salt, plus more for sprinkling 150g granulated sugar 70g salted butter, at room temperature, plus more for tin 1 large egg, at room temperature 1 vanilla pod, split 100ml double cream For the fruit layer 475ml double cream 450g strawberrie, hulled and halved lengthwise 170g raspberries
l For the macaron layers, Sift the almond flour, icing sugar and baking powder into a large bowl. Whisk 4 of the egg whites with the food colouring in a medium bowl just until the mixture is evenly coloured. Set it aside. l Combine the granulated sugar with 75ml water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to help dissolve the sugar. Attach a sugar thermometer to the pan and cook until it reaches 118°C, 3 to 5 min. l Use an electric mixer set on high speed to whip the remaining 4 egg whites in a large bowl just until they form soft peaks. Still beating on high, slowly pour a stream of the hot syrup into the bowl – do not pour directly into the beaters, or the syrup will splash. Keep beating on a high speed until the egg whites form stiff, glossy peaks. l Let the meringue cool until it is warm but not hot, which can take about 20 min. Add the coloured egg whites to the almond flour mixture and use a big rubber spatula to stir them together until blended. Scrape the meringue into the bowl and fold, reaching down to the bottom of the mixture with the spatula and bringing it up and over the rest of the mixture. Turn the bowl one quarter turn and repeat until the mixture is evenly coloured but still light and fluffy. l Cut 2 sheets of baking paper. Using a 23cm round cake tin as a template, draw a circle on each baking paper sheet. Turn the paper over so you can see the circle from the opposite side. Spoon half of the meringue mixture into the centre of each circle and use
Downtime by Nadine Levy Redzepi, published by Ebury Press, £27.
the spatula to spread it evenly towards the edges with a slight dome in the centre. Let the shells stand, uncovered, at room temperature for about 1 hour. l Preheat the oven to 180°C. Lightly butter a 23cm round cake tin, line the bottom with a baking paper round. l Sift the flour, baking powder and salt together into a medium bowl. Beat the sugar and butter in another bowl with an electric mixer until it is pale, about 3 min. Beat in the egg, until light. Scrape the vanilla seeds into the bowl. l With the mixer on low, add the flour mixture in thirds, alternating with two equal additions of the cream, and beat until smooth. Spread the batter evenly in the tin and sprinkle with flaky salt. l Bake on the centre rack until the top of the cake is golden brown, about 20 min. Leave the oven on. Let the cake cool in the tin for about 10 min. Invert and unmould the tin onto the rack and discard the paper. Turn the cake right side up and let cool completely. l Bake the macaron shells until they feel mostly set underneath the crust, about 30 min. Turn off the oven, prop the door open slightly with a wooden spoon, and let them slowly cool, 45 min to 1 hour. Remove from the oven, cool completely and remove the paper. l For the fruit layer, whip the cream in a large bowl with an electric mixer until it just begins to hold its shape. l No more than 30 minutes before you plan to serve the cake, assemble the components. Place on macaron on a cake plate flat side up. Spread it with half of the cream and scatter the strawberries evenly on top. Gently set the cake layer on top. Cover with the remaining cream and the raspberries. Place the second macaron on top of the raspberries, domed side up. l Let the cake stand for 15 to 20 min then use a thin, sharp knife to cut into wedges.
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l We always let our daughters choose what they want for their birthday dessert. When it is Genta’s turn, she inevitably chooses something pretty and girly instead of a traditional cake. The year she requested macarons, I thought making one big macaron then turning it into a layer cake by adding cream, cake and more cream would be fun, and I was right. It’s a little messy to serve, but it’s still delicious. foodies 31
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COUNTRY RETREATS FOODIES FOCUS
TO THE COUNTRY Escape, explore, and enjoy the best Scotlandâ€™s countryside has to offer with a retreat to one of our top country house hotels CARFRAEMILL Carfraemill, Lauder TD2 6RA www.carfraemill.co.uk For those looking to explore the beautiful landscape of the Scottish Borders, Carfraemill is the perfect base. Discover the scenery, relax in the cosy, family-run country house, and enjoy a range of delectable dining options, with all menus centred around the local produce. KNOCKENDARROCH Higher Oakfield, Pitlochry PH16 5HT www.knockendarroch.co.uk Head to luxury boutique hotel, Knockendarroch, to discover the Highlands from the very heart of Pitlochry. Originally built as a private mansion amidst stunning mountains and a roaring river, the
beauty of the hotel is renowned, while its signature restaurant has become its own cultural attraction, boasting two AA Rosettes and a seasonal modern Scottish menu that changes daily. COUL HOUSE HOTEL Contin, Ross-shire IV14 9ES www.coulhousehotel.com The magic that makes Coul House Hotel unique can be found while wandering their fairy trail with your little ones or between bites of their innovative cuisine. Guests flock to Coul House for the most important moments in life, whether looking to say their vows before the poppies or to make new memories amongst the striking natural life and gorgeous scenery surrounding the country house.
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Set in an idyllic country estate on the outskirts of Edinburgh, Melville Castle is a unique and enchanting location for wedding receptions and civil partnerships. The Castle has played host to weddings of all shapes and sizes from the grandest of society weddings to smaller and more intimate affairs. Dating back to 1786, Melville Castle is a lovingly and sympathetically restored castellated mansion with interiors that fuse a modern eclecticism with a classical sensibility. Nestled within 54 acres of parkland and woodland on the banks of the River North Esk, it provides a most romantic backdrop for photographs. Whatever your requirements, Melville Castle has all the ingredients to create a truly memorable occasion. We look forward to welcoming you to the Castle and turning your dream into a reality. Tel: 0131 654 0088 Email: email@example.com Website: www.melvillecastle.com @melvillecastle facebook.com/melvillecastle
Melville Castle, Gilmerton Road, Midlothian, EH18 1AP 032_FoodiesFeb18.indd 10
COUNTRY RETREATS FOODIES FOCUS
Coul House Hotel
INVERLOCHY CASTLE Torlundy, Fort William PH33 6SN www.inverlochycastlehotel.com Inverlochy Castle is a breath-taking 19th century marvel on the green banks of its own private loch. Queen Victoria enjoyed sketching and painting the local scenery when she visited, but today’s guests are often distracted by the world-class chefs serving the best of local produce.
BALLINTAGGART FARM Grandtully, Pitlochry PH9 0PX www.ballintaggart.com Amongst the rolling hills of Perthshire sits Ballintaggart Farm, a rustic escape from the everyday where people come to appreciate the simple joys. Walk through the wildflower meadow, learn to forage, and simply wander the orchard when you fancy a snack. Get back to basics with minimalist, open rooms and sophisticated meals created with ingredients straight from the farm. KINLOCH LODGE Sleat, Isle of Skye 1V43 8QY www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk While Skye has always been a romantic destination, with some of the world’s most gorgeous natural landscapes, legends of fairies and historic ruins, it is now also one of Scotland’s foodie hotspots. Get the best of both at the luxury Kinloch Lodge, which boasts not only beautiful rooms and Highland hospitality, but a prestigious restaurant to top off a spectacular trip.
BOATH HOUSE Auldearn, Nairn IV12 5TE www.boath-house.com Beautifully located and meticulously designed, Boath House draws people in for its attention to detail. In their Michelin-starred restaurant, the menu changes daily and is full of ingredients from local and artisan producers, brought together in dishes to take your breath away. LOCH NESS LODGE Drumnadrochit, Inverness IV63 6TU www.loch-ness-lodge.com This romantic hotel is a sight to behold. Gaze upon Loch Ness from
your beautifully designed room, or mix things up with a distinguished afternoon tea or soothing visit to the spa. For a romantic stay, book one of the cottages amidst the luscious landscapes as a base camp for your own loch-side adventure. foodies 35
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‘Food to make for the people you love’
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ANNE SHOOTER FOODIES
Cherished cooking Journalist and food writer Anne Shooter cooks from the heart in these recipes for family feasts
his book began with a request from the younger of my two daughters, Jessica, who is eleven, when she was helping me make supper one evening. ‘Mummy,’ she said. ‘The next time you write a cookery book, rather than it being something for everyone else, please can you make it for me and Charlotte, so that when we are older we can make all the dinners for our families that you make for us’. So, in answer to my youngest’s call, I’ve collected together all the recipes my family and friends love, and that I cook for them regularly. And it really is a collection – some have been passed down from my mum and the generations before her, others are gifts from friends, some are from my travels abroad or from meals I have eaten in restaurants and that I have been inspired to recreate at home. And, although most of the recipes have a strong link to my background – and most are connected to the fact that I am Jewish – I’m no purist and am very happy to mix in influences from all over the world to give those dishes an update for our very modern dining table. Being Jewish basically means that food has been used to mark every significant occasion for as long as I can remember, and in plentiful quantities. (‘Have some more, dolly! What, you don’t like it so much?’) On a Friday night, we would often go round to my grandparents’ house after school before the traditional Shabbat (or Sabbath) dinner and my grandma, Freda, would be stirring the chicken soup, grating hard boiled eggs to
sprinkle on the chopped liver, and checking on the chicken roasting in the oven. Friday night always was – and still is in many Jewish families – a veritable ode to the humble chicken! I would perch on my granddad’s knee while he sat on his rocking chair watching the television, and he always let me blow out the match he used to light his pipe. ‘Chana,’ he would say to me, using my Hebrew name. ‘One day, believe me, you will be a balaboosta and your own house will be like this’. A balaboosta is the Yiddish term for a wife and homemaker, a gracious hostess, a wonderful cook. And now, every Friday, like my mum, and my grandma, and her mother before her, I prepare a traditional Jewish Friday night dinner for my family and friends – often cooking for 20 guests. Although I will pile the table with many of the traditional Jewish recipes that my family has been making for generations, my versions take in more diverse influences. I will serve chopped liver just as my grandma always did, but often with elements of a Middle Eastern mezze – a garlicky sludge of hummus; smoky aubergine babaganoush; and a vibrant, chopped Israeli salad of cucumbers and tomatoes, perhaps pimped with pomegranate seeds, mint and parsley. So, here we are. The food that I make every day, recipes passed down, added to, made my own for my own modern family table – but, although these recipes are inspired by my Jewish roots, they are really simply food to make for the people you love. l foodies 37
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ANNE SHOOTER FOODIES
Hampstead garden suburb chicken Serves 4 1 chicken, jointed into 8 pieces, or 8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs 2 red onions, sliced into rings 1 lemon, sliced into thin rings 100g capers in brine, drained 20 pitted prunes 150g pitted green olives, with 2 tbsp their brine 30ml red wine vinegar 30ml olive oil 60ml white wine 1 tbsp coriander seeds, crushed in a pestle and mortar 6 garlic cloves, crushed 2 bay leaves 1 tbsp dried oregano 1 cinnamon stick, broken into 3 pieces 60g soft light brown sugar A small handful each of chopped flat-leaf parsley and coriander
l Place the chicken, onions and lemon slices into a large bowl. Scatter over the capers, prunes and olives. l Mix together the olive brine, vinegar, olive oil, white wine, coriander seeds and crushed garlic. Pour the mixture over the chicken and mix everything around well. Add the bay leaves, scatter with oregano and place the cinnamon stick pieces among the chicken. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge overnight (or for at least 4 hours). When you are ready to cook, preheat the oven to 190Â°C. l Tip the chicken, juices and marinade ingredients into a roasting tray and arrange in a single layer with all the marinade ingredients evenly scattered around the chicken. Sprinkle over the brown sugar. Roast for 1 hour, basting the chicken with the pan juices halfway through cooking. l Scatter with chopped parsley and coriander before serving with couscous or rice.
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Caraway-cured salmon with horseradish & beetroot Serves 6–8 1 side of salmon (about 800g), skin on (ask your fishmonger or get it from the shop counter of your supermarket) 3 ready-cooked beetroot (packaged without vinegar), grated (use plastic gloves for this) 3 tbsp grated fresh horseradish (or use from a jar) Grated zest of 1 orange Grated zest of 1 lemon 1 tbsp vodka A small bunch of dill, finely chopped 1⁄2–1 tsp caraway seeds 3 tbsp sea salt flakes 3 tbsp brown sugar
l Find two flat (but rimmed) baking trays that fit in your fridge and are large enough to hold the salmon. Line both with cling film. (This is a precaution against leaking beetroot juice – it will stain anything it touches!) l Lay the salmon fillet on one of the trays. Check for pin bones and remove any you find. l Mix together all the remaining ingredients to create a purple sludge and spread it all over the salmon. Cover well with cling film and lay the other baking tray on top. Place in the fridge and weigh down the top tray with something heavy – tins of beans are pretty good! Leave to cure for 48–72 hours. l Remove from the fridge and carry the trays to the sink – carefully does it, as there will be a pool of red liquid around the salmon. Gently take off the cling film and remove the salmon. Scrape off the cure, rinse briefly under the cold tap and then lay on a chopping board. Using a very sharp knife, cut the salmon into the thinnest slices you can, on the bias, leaving the skin behind. The slices will have a beautiful, bright pink edge to them. l Serve with crème fraîche and slices of buttered rye, blinis or latkes.
ANNE SHOOTER FOODIES
A perfectly pink starter for date night
FOODIES ANNE SHOOTER
Persian love cake
Serves 10 300g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing A pinch of saffron strands Grated zest of 1 orange, plus 2 tbsp orange juice 300g caster sugar 4 eggs 2 tsp rose water Seeds from 5 cardamom pods ½ tsp mixed spice 200g self-raising flour ½ tsp baking powder 60g pistachios, ground to a coarse powder
60g ground almonds A pinch of salt
For the buttercream 100g full-fat cream cheese 50g unsalted butter, softened 300g icing sugar ½ tsp rose water 1 or 2 drops red food colouring To decorate Pistachios, lightly crushed Dried rose petals, optional
l Preheat the oven to 180°C and grease and line the base of three 15cm round cake tins with baking parchment. l Soak the saffron strands in the 2 tablespoons of orange juice for a few minutes. Meanwhile, cream the butter and sugar in a bowl until creamy and pale then add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the orange zest, rose water, cardamom seeds and mixed spice and beat again, then add the soaked saffron and orange juice, too. Fold in the flour, baking powder, ground pistachios, ground almonds and salt. l Divide the mixture evenly between the three tins and bake for 25 minutes until golden, risen and starting to come away from the sides of the tin. A skewer inserted into the centre should come out clean. Leave to cool in the tins while you make the rose buttercream. l Making the buttercream is easiest if you just put everything in a food processor and whizz to a smooth, fluffy frosting with the palest pink hue, but you can also make it using a handheld electric mixer: start by mixing the cream cheese and butter together, then whisk in the icing sugar and finally add the rose water and one or two drops of red food colouring to make it a pale pink colour. l To assemble the cake, sandwich the layers with two-thirds of the buttercream. Spread the remaining buttercream over the top, then sprinkle with crushed pistachios and dried rose petals, if using.
Cherish byAnne Shooter, published by Headline Home, £28. Photo © Emma Lee.
ROSEMARY SHRAGER FOODIES
A slice of this love cake makes for the ultimate Valentineâ€™s dessert
WEDDINGS FOODIES FOCUS
House for an Art Lover
1599 232-242 St Vincent Street, Glasgow, G2 5RJ www.1599.co.uk If you’re on the look out for a traditional venue with bags of class, Fifteen Ninety Nine at the historic Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons ticks all the boxes. Classic design isn’t the only perk they offer, however; combined with an awardwinning chef, imaginative menus filled with local produce, experienced wedding co-ordinators, and a city centre location, Fifteen Ninety Nine offers the full package. HOUSE FOR AN ART LOVER Bellahouston Park, Glagsow, G41 5BW www.houseforanartlover.co.uk
Planning a city centre wedding? Here’s our guide to everything you need for the perfect day in the very heart of Edinburgh’s Designed by the renowned Charles historic Old Town, this venue is Rennie Mackintosh, House for an complimented by elegant gold Art Lover is the dream location for décor, classic columns, an awecouples with artistic leanings. Not inspiring painted ceiling dome, and just a uniquely picturesque space ornate upper balcony. indoors, the stunning grounds also make for a dreamy backdrop for photos of the big day. The Signet THE SIGNET LIBRARY Parliament Square, Edinburgh, EH1 1RF www.thesignetlibrary. co.uk The Signet Library is the picture of elegance: a truly grand Georgian location
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WEDDINGS FOODIES FOCUS St Luke’s
Complete with a range of uniquely stunning rooms to choose from, it doesn’t get much more fairytale wedding than this. THE CAVES 8-10 Niddry Street South, Edinburgh, EH1 1NS If traditional isn’t your style, The Caves offers an unusual and interesting wedding space that’s bound to get your guests talking. Part of Edinburgh’s hidden vaults, this venue is packed full of historic charm, with romantic stone walls and dramatic arches adding to this uniquely atmospheric venue.
THE HUB Castlehill, Edinburgh, EH1 2NE www.thehub-edinburgh.com In its landmark position at the centre of the Royal Mile, The Hub is one of the capital’s most iconic destinations. The home of the Edinburgh International Festival, this hub of culture is perfect for those looking for a wedding full of glamour and creativity. Stunning, dramatic décor, an in-house florist, fine contemporary menu options and a red carpet entrance all add to the dreamexperience.
The finishing touches
ST LUKE’S 17 Bain Street Glasgow, G40 2JZ www.stlukesglasgow.com While it might boast the beautiful perks of a listed building, from the vaulted ceilings to the bespoke pipe organ and stunning stained glass windows from the 1800s, St Luke’s isn’t just for traditionalists. Romantic purple lighting, a hearty and contemporary soul food style menu, and a prime location right next door to the famous Barrowlands cements its place as one of Glasgow’s most interesting venues to boot. Cherry on Top acherryontopscotland.co.uk Stylish shortbread
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(L - R) Rosewood Cakes, rosewoodcakes.com; The Enchanting Merchant Co. theenchantingmerchantco.com; Tilly Makes Cake, tillymakescake.co.uk
Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier highlandchocolatier.com Award-winning chocolate truffles foodies 47
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CHEF Q&A DOMINIC JACK
KING OF THE CASTLE Dominic Jack, Chef Patron of Edinburgh’s Castle Terrace, shares his seasonal foodie secrets
Who inspires you? My mentor, Chef Alain Solivérès. I’ve learnt so much from him and his knowledge, expertise and passion for cooking still inspires me to this day. I worked with him for eight years and during that time, he taught me to live and breathe excellence in my cooking- something that I strive for everyday. He shared with me the importance of cooking with fresh, seasonal produce and to cook from the heart. Taking influence from his work, the menu at Castle Terrace showcases outstanding quality ingredients, cooked simply, using French techniques but with a modern twist – offering guests new and exciting interpretations of classic dishes.
What is your favourite Scottish ingredient to work with? It’s hard to choose just one – the produce we have access to here in Scotland really is superb. As Autumn arrives, so too does the gaming season – one of my favourite times of year. The first grouse of the season is always a special time. It was a momentous occasion in my kitchen this year, as it always is. We have diners booking as far as a year in advance to enjoy it and I always make sure I serve them the very best. During the summer months, I love cooking with Scottish gooseberries. The gooseberries we serve are from my garden at home – my wife Francine and our younger son
Ruben really enjoy picking the fruit together. Their sharp, tart flavour makes them so versatile and a perfect accompaniment to savoury dishes. What is your trademark dinner party dish? One of my favourite dinner party dishes is Tartare of Shetland Salmon served Sushi Style. It has become one of my signature dishes and is very popular with guests at Castle Terrace. It’s a really intricate and delicate dish that requires great precision and attention to detail. The Scottish salmon, wasabi cream, cucumber and ginger combine to create a wonderfully fresh flavour and the dish looks really vibrant on the plate.
Where is your favourite place to eat in Edinburgh? Edinburgh’s food scene is really booming at the moment and there’s so much choice. I don’t get a lot of time to eat out as I’m at the restaurant every day, but occasionally after service, Chef Tom Kitchin and I will pop along to our gastropub, The Scran & Scallie, to check in on the team, enjoy a cold pint and catch up on how service has gone. Most of the time, after a busy week in the restaurant, I look forward to nothing more than spending time at home with my family – if we’re treating ourselves, we enjoy the chance to have a relaxed night in with some take-away sushi.
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DOMINIC JACK CHEF Q&A
Spelt risotto with winter vegetables Serves 4 200g spelt Olive oil 1 shallot, finely diced Dash of white wine 1 ½ litre chicken stock Knob of butter Dash of salt 1 carrot, chopped 1 turnip, chopped 100g broccoli 1 parsnip, chopped 100g celeriac, chopped ½ fennel, chopped 1 stick of celery, chopped 100g pumpkin, chopped Handful of spinach 50g parmesan 80g butter 2 tsp freshly whipped cream 1 tbsp roasted pumpkin seeds to garnish
l Add the olive oil to a heavy bottom pan, then add the shallots and sweat down. Add the spelt and deglaze with white wine. l Add some of the chicken stock so it just covers the spelt and cook until al dente, keeping the spelt covered with stock until ready, 45 minutes to 1 hour. l Meanwhile, take another heavy bottom pan, and add a knob of butter and a dash of salt. Add boiling water to the pan, about 2cm deep, then add the carrots, turnip and the broccoli,
and blanch in the boiling salted water. Add the parsnip, celeriac, fennel and celery, and cover the pan with a lid. l Remove the vegetables from the water, then place back in the pan with a little olive oil. Add the pumpkin and roast the vegetables until you start to see them colour nicely – try to resist the urge to shake the pan here so you get a lovely golden colour. l When the vegetables are almost ready, add a handful of spinach and wilt down. l Once it’s ready, strain
the spelt through a sieve, retaining the liquid. Cool the spelt on a tray l Put the spelt back into the pan with the remaining chicken stock and warm gently. Add the 80g of butter, stirring continuously, until all the butter is melted and has coated the spelt. Season to taste and add the parmesan. Finish with freshly whipped cream and stir through. l Spoon the spelt onto a plate then add a spoon of the vegetables on top. Garnish with toasted pumpkin seeds and serve.
‘Use any combination of fresh, seasonal vegetables to suit you’
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PRINCES PERTHSHIRE STREET FOODIES FOODIES FOCUS FOCUS
A HOP, SKIP & A JUMP From the Edinburgh Trams’ Princes Street stop, the entire city is in your hands: try these eateries, all within a five minute stroll RABBLE 55a Frederick Street www.rabbleedinburgh.co.uk For each and every one of your foodie needs, Rabble serves up the highest quality feasts from weekend brunch hour right through to midweek date night. First class cocktails are paired with local ingredients including Loch Fyne oysters and Black Angus fillet for a dining experience you’ll return to time and again.
Eteaket Coro The Chocolate Cafe Rabble
HENDERSONS VEGAN RESTAURANT 25c Thistle Street www.hendersonsofedinburgh. co.uk Edinburgh’s very first 100% vegan restaurant, right down to their wine list, Hendersons’ menu will delight all whether you follow a plant-based diet or not. Lovingly prepared with care, their hearty, healthy dishes put flavour first.
CORO THE CHOCOLATE CAFE 13 Frederick The Jolly Botanist Street www. ETEAKET corochocolate. 41 Frederick Street co.uk Hendersons www.eteaket.co.uk Thrill your DUSIT You’ll never look at a builder’s brew sweet tooth at Coro, the unique 49a Thistle Street the same way once you get a taste dessert cafe where chocolate of www.dusit.co.uk of the fine tea offerings stocking the every sort takes centre stage. One of the capital’s favourite Thai shelves at Eteaket. Whether you’re Get dipping with their fondue restaurants, Dusit is renowned for looking to warm your cockles with menu, indulge your cravings its fresh and flavourful menu. From their famous Bloomin Marvellous with their array of pancakes, the famous favourites like Pad Thai waffles, and crepes, or try one of and satay to their signature Gai Dusit green tea, or want to try something completely new with the Isle of their infamously decadent hot stirfry, you can dine with confidence Harris gin infused tea blend, Eteaket chocolates. Step back Willy Wonka, that every dish you discover will be offer up a cuppa like no other. there’s a new sweet fantasy in town. authentic and delicious.
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Ivy Muse are spreading the plant love revolution with their green-hued styling advice
here’s a special feeling you get when you walk into a room filled with thriving greenery, and it usually results in a smile. That’s why plants are a stylist’s best friend. Although there’s a bit more to consider with styling your home with plants than with inanimate objects, the rewards are well worth it. Plants add softness, warmth and remind us of nature, which makes us happy. They enliven our homes and create a sanctuary for us to retreat to after a long day, but the real secret lies in their ability to transform an interior into something magical.
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THE HEART OF YOUR HOME seasoned with love and care. 151-153 Main Street, Uddingston T: 01698 300 800 Fullpage.indd 46
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THE HEART OF YOUR HOME seasoned with love and care. 151-153 Main Street, Uddingston T: 01698 300 800
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‘Plants enliven our homes and create a sanctuary for us to retreat to’ We launched Ivy Muse, our botanical wares studio, with a goal to encourage creativity with greenery. Every day, our customers tell us that they want to create a plant-filled sanctuary at home but don’t know where to start. Maybe you’re just at the start of your journey with plants and aren’t sure where to begin. You might be a city dweller in a pint-sized apartment, or you may call a five-bedroom weatherboard in the suburbs home. Every space in your home, no matter what size, is a unique opportunity to reflect who you are and what you love. It’s the small details that make a home – a tiny personal touch here, a much-loved object there – and plants, with all their superstar qualities, can really shine. Whether you’re keen to turn your whole house into a jungle or are planning to add a touch of greenery here and there, keep in mind that plants are not purely ornamental. They are alive, they do grow, they can be messy
Plant Style by Alana Langan & Jacqui Vidal, published by Thames & Hudson, £14.95. Photo © Anette O’Brien
and they are always changing – but this is exactly what makes them so beautiful. Caring for plants can be a rewarding and long-lasting endeavour that enriches your life. It offers time for solitude and quiet contemplation away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. If you aren’t convinced yet, here’s the real kicker. Plants look damn pretty. A well-placed plant can have a huge impact on a set of shelves and a bold tree can liven up a dull corner in the blink of an eye. Whether it’s a few pots on a windowsill or an entire room dedicated to your plant gang, indoor plants will enhance your home in many ways.l foodies 55
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Time to taste Our top restaurant picks to try this month GAUCHO ‘The most tender steak I have ever eaten,’ was the final verdict of the night as we shared Gaucho’s signature ‘Tira de Ancho’. A spiral cut rib eye marinated in hot chimichurri, the slow grilled meat was a triumph, and at 500g per serving, there was enough to last us the week. Meat is a serious business at Gaucho. After getting comfy at our elegant banquette table, we were presented with a meat board, taught about the provenance of their Argentinian beef and given a full tasting guide to the variety of steaks on offer that night. I started with the
seafood sampler, a trio of tasters: limey tuna ceviche, paired with a creamy guacamole; soft shell crab crisply encrusted by tempura batter accompanied by a fragrant smoked paprika mayonnaise; and finally, the king of the trio, delicate sashimistyle slivers of stone bass with corn and fresh, tart grapefruit. My dining partner loved the gamey flavours of his starter - piping hot chicken livers in a delightfully creamy sherry scented endive and shallot sauce. After joyfully tackling our king’s share of steak, who would have guessed that we could make room for dessert?
However, when it comes in the form of a dulche de leche cheesecake with toasted marshmallows and dripping with delicious hot salted caramel sauce, who could say no? The wine list gives an opportunity to taste a great selection of Argentinian wines, some unique to Gaucho. The knowledgable and enthusiastic staff are on hand to help advise, and there are helpful wine pairing suggestions dotted throughout the menu to keep you on the right track. For meat lovers on the hunt, Gaucho is the ultimate prize. 4a St Andrew Square Edinburgh EH2 2BD www.gauchorestaurants.com Sue Hitchen
RESTAURANT REVIEW FOODIES
@PIZZA @Pizza started making waves the moment it opened. Boisterous claims of sizzling hot, thin-crust customised pizzas in under two minutes started swirling, but it isn’t the speed but the attention to detail that will enshrine @pizza as the newest city staple. Forget the off-yellow lighting and worn down wood you’ve come to expect from a pizzeria - @pizza is all sleek tiles and Instagramready three-point lighting. I was in love with my “White Dog” pizza from the first bite. Creamy and cheesy with a perfectly crisp oval crust, each of the three carefully selected cheeses was complimented by grilled red onion and garlic oil,
while the sausage on the “Eat Meat Repeat” curls perfectly to form a pool for just enough oil to tantalize you. Of the dozens of toppings available, most are locally sourced, many are made specifically for the restaurant and all are optional. The menu comes with a robust selection of tempting combinations, but diners are encouraged to tailor their slice as much as they like. The delicious craft sodas are also bespoke, and the self-serve fountain encourages creative selections. I tried a fresh Sicilian lemonade, but when my date combined apple and bramble with ginger, lime and mint I couldn’t help but finish it off. By the time we strolled back out, the restaurant was bustling with a new crop of excited patrons choosing their own adventure in pizza heaven. Here, there are no wrong choices. Charlotte Lane, Edinburgh EH2 4QZ www.atpizza.com Emily J Hall
Before putting fork to mouth, the grand interior of The Citizen already had us in awe. The hearty menu offers innovative takes on stick to your ribs classics, from outstanding spicy buttermilk fried chicken to coriander tempura king prawns with an expert balance of crispiness to succulency. The Bangkok coconut curry contained a dazzling array of fresh vegetables and countless prawns in a tantalising aromatic broth. Caramelised pineapples added a welcome sweetness, but the rice was more mushy than sticky. However, the gargantuan serving of braised beef cheek took melt-inyour-mouth to a whole new level. The accompanying mash was velvety smooth, although the root veg and braised cabbage listed on the menu barely made an appearance on my plate. To finish off, the cranachan cheesecake didn’t really do justice to the traditional Scottish pudding, but the warming toffee apple crumble more than made up for it. The organic house red made a perfect partner but for me, it’s the offer of brewery-fresh, unpasteurised Tennents poured less than a mile from the source that will have the locals flocking. 24 St Vincent Place, Glasgow G1 2EU www.thecitizenglasgow.co.uk Gary Mcintyre
TI MOROU S BEASTIE HIGHLAND MALT SCOTCH WHISKY
THE PERFECT PARTNER TO YOUR CHEESE COURSE A nutty and smooth cheese, like a parmesan or comtĂŠ delivers a perfect base for the sweet, honeyed and fruity character of Timorous Beastie Highland Malt. Savour waves of creamy saltiness rising through the rich and indulgent whisky for a truly indulgent flavour combination.
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COOK SCHOOLS FOODIES
Date night Looking to impress that special guest? Perfect your romantic recipes with a little help from these masterclasses LET’S COOK SCOTLAND
www.letscookscotland.co.uk THE VALENTINE’S Discover Italy when you go to EXPERIENCE Let’s Cook Scotland for a day WITH ONE OF of fine wine and timeless OUR TOP WINES, flavours. Bring your Valentine P.64 and spend the night or bring the skills back with you to wow with fresh, moist lemon cake TENNENT’S TRAINING and perfect homemade ravioli. ACADEMY The small and informal class will www.tennent’strainingacademy. ensure the hands on experience co.uk and time required to master all Turn up the heat at Tennent’s the delicious details. Training Academy where they don’t just demystify the sizzling secrets of Spanish cuisine but EDINBURGH SCHOOL OF deliver a whole evening of exciting FOOD AND WINE Spanish experiences. Whirl your www.esfw.com partner in local dances, indulge in Enchant and impress with all the regional wines and take away the subtle skills of French country recipes and expertise for all the cooking. The rich and indulgent tapas you could desire. flavours of the Provident are perfect for February, when cold winter evenings call for hearty THE COOK SCHOOL meals and sensual desserts. SCOTLAND The Edinburgh School of Food www.cookschool.org and Wine has you covered with For dessert, take your loved one to their regional course designed to Russia with a delectable fresh fruit expose you to the most essential and vanilla crème pavlova. This ingredients and techniques for intricate dish may seem difficult this elegantly simple cuisine. to master, but the Cook School
Scotland walks you through the moves step by step on their bread and baking day, guaranteeing that sweet, sweet mastery in time for you to bake for your own primadonna. foodies 59
RARE, EXPENSIVE, HANDMADE. AND THAT’S JUST THE CASKS.
THAT’S THE GLENGOYNE WAY. glengoyne.com
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SPAS NORTON HOUSE HOTEL & SPA Ingliston, Edinburgh, EH28 8LX handpickedhotels.co.uk Experience Norton House’s signature spa day, starting off with tea and tipples in the stylish hotel before retiring to the spa for the ultimate pamper experience. Choose from a relaxing full body massage or freshen up your look with a classic mani-pedi and leave feeling revived.
THE BANNATYNE SPA 43 Queen Street, Edinburgh, EH2 3NH bannatyne.co.uk Treat your special someone to a super sweet spa day with Bannatyne’s cocoa-enriched All You Need is Love and Chocolate treatment, featuring a choc scented massage.
e’s Looking for the ideal Valentin gift? Spoil your loved one at the spa
INGLEWOOD HOUSE & SPA Tullibody Road, Alloa, FK10 2HU inglewoodhouseandspa.co.uk Give the gift of relaxation with Inglewood House’s Lotus Day Package. The intensive massage revitalises muscles while the Elemis Biotec facial deep cleans and rejuvenates the skin. Plus, their signature cream tea is a delicious bonus.
ARDOE HOUSE HOTEL & SPA South Deeside Road, Aberdeen, AB12 5YP mercure.com Spend the day at Ardoe and unwind with full use of the facilities and your choice of expert treatment. Try the purifying back treatment with Indian head massage to soothe inside and out, or go for the aromatherapy massage to relax and recentre.
THE MARINE HOTEL 8 Crosbie Road, Troon, KA10 6HE themarinetroon.co.uk What could be more romantic
than a spa day for two at The Marine Hotel? Enjoy the sauna and indoor pool together before experiencing total
relaxation with the Elemis Garden of Eden rose massage, leaving your skin supple and fragrant. foodies 61
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The spice of life Get creative with your classic cocktails with a little help from The Permit Room, below Edinburghâ€™s own Bombay cafe, Dishoom
East India Gimlet 40ml Portobello Road Gin 40ml Roses Lime Cordial 2 dashes of celery bitters A pinch of dill 1 wedge of lime 1 small sprig of dill, to garnish l First, take a coupe glass and chill
with a dash of soda and some ice. l Add all ingredients to a shaker. Add
ice, cap it and shake hard. l Empty the ice from your glass and
fine strain the drink in. Garnish the drink with a small fresh sprout of dill.
Monsoon Martini 5ml black walnut bitters 10ml honey syrup 15ml Ancho Reyes chilli liqueur 25ml Black Cow vodka 30ml espresso
COFFEE IS OUT; COFFEE COCKTAILS ARE IN
l Shake together with ice and fine
strain into a coupe. l Dust chilli on top and garnish
with a coffee bean.
Taj Ballroom Toddy 80ml of cider 1 cinnamon stick 2 cloves Thumb-sized piece of ginger, sliced 1 tsp of demerara sugar 25ml apple juice 25ml Amrut whisky l Pour all the ingredients in a
PERFECT FOR QUIET EVENINGS AT HOME
pan and heat gently. Do not allow to boil. Simmer for 15 minutes. l Decant into a warm glass. Sip contentedly.
TRIED AND TREW RESTAURANTS AND BARS WORDS JONATHAN TREW
TOP TIP Head to Mother India’s Cafe for delicious Indian tapas before being amazed by Cirque Beserk at the Festival Theatre.
THIS MONTH WE’RE DRINKING...
Little Light 35ml La Venenosa Sur 20ml extra dry orange liqueur 20ml fresh lemon juice 10ml gomme syrup 2 dashes peach bitters Half a fresh egg white
By KIN, 1 Barony St, Edinburgh Photo: Till Britze Photography
l Add all ingredients to a shaker and shake without ice. Add ice and shake well. l Double strain into a coupette glass and garnish with dried edible rose petals.
LAUNCHING THIS MONTH KIN EDINBURGH KIN is a compact and cosy space with a laidback, welcoming feel. The cocktail list is packed with carefully concocted, original drinks like the Little Light which mixes fresh lemon juice, house orange liqueur, peach bitters, and La Venenosa raicilla while the bar snack selection includes rib-sticking Scotch eggs, very more-ish chicken goujons and triple-fried chips. fb.com/kin.edinburgh.bar
SKY BAR GLASGOW Reached by an elevator, Sky Bar overlooks the cobbled courtyard of Merchant Square. The cocktails are made with premium brands, there is no shortage of Champagne marques to choose between, and the bar snack
menu ranges from haggis bon bons to a posh mac ‘n’ cheese made with lobster. However, the main thrust of Sky Bar’s culinary offer comes in the form of prime steaks which diners cook on hot stones at the table. fb.com/skybarmerchantsquare
PIZZA EAST GLASGOW Glasgow’s current pizza crush shows no sign of cooling as Pizza East launches. The premises have been stripped back for an industrial feel while chunky wooden furniture adds a rustic note. They like to keep it all authentic with salami from Calabria, San Marzano tomatoes and chefs from Naples. Daily specials might be the pulled pork pizza or pizza topped with pumpkin. Pumpkin? Who knew? www.pizzaeastglasgow.com
Our palate perfect vino for Valentine’s The King’s Favour Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Marlborough Ocado, £14.99 A vibrant burst of grapefruit and lemons with subtle hints of passion fruit. It is fresh, youthful and full of flavour. Try it with oysters and white fish or, better still, goats cheese. Château de Berne Rosé 2016 Côtes de Provence Majestic £14.99 Floral and lifted full of bright berry fruits. Pretty and expressive, with zesty acidity and a subtle hint of creaminess. Like a glass of sunshine! Plaimont’s Reserve des Tuguets 2015 Tesco £6.50 Pair meat dishes with this smooth but full bodied red. It is clove spiced with lashings of black cherry and a touch of game, with a liquorice and dark chocolate backbone.
T H E DN A IS A LL C L ASS I C AND THE INGR EDIEN TS SPEA K FOR THE M S E LV E S Enjoy 20% OFF A la carte menu when you dine before 28th February 2018. Quote ‘FOODIE’ to redeem.
Tasting Menu Gift Vouchers Gift family or friends with an exquisite five course tasting menu for two or four people from £100. Champagne on arrival followed by five courses expertly prepared and served with accompanying wines.
Reserve your table and buy your gift voucher online at www.bistrodeluxept.co.uk 81 Holyrood Road, Edinburgh, EH8 8AU
FOODIES FOCUS OUT AND ABOUT
Photo © Beth Chalmers
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