R E S TA U R A N T
FOOD
The Terrace Big, brash, ambitious – but does it deliver? ANNA BRITTEN visits Queen Street Dining’s flagship dining destination
M
y old headmaster used to counsel school leavers against becoming a jack-of-all-trades. Better, he said, to do one thing brilliantly rather than be just OK at many. I thought that was garbage then, still do. But his words come back to me as I mull over my first visit to The Terrace – because this flagship, Queen Street Dining venue, which opened at the end of September, has set its sights on offering brilliance, and not just OK-ness, across not one but three different (and difficult) offerings: bar, restaurant, and club. What nutters would even attempt this? There is a whiff of West End hen night package about the very concept. Yet those nutters are the estimable Joe Hill and Steve Keough – the entrepreneurial local duo behind the city’s much-loved Artigiano and Base & Barley – so if anyone can pull off such an ambitious plan, it’s them. Appearance-wise, The Terrace has consummately nailed that all-important ‘bright lights big city’, urban brasserie feel. Lots of stylish glass, dark wood, chestnut leather, industrial this and statement that, spread across two-storeys – the first floor a restaurant by day, a club lounge with VIP booths, DJs and dancing by night; and the second floor, also part of the restaurant, incorporating the wraparound rooftop terrace (it’s Exeter’s first rooftop venue) where you can enjoy the view of the Cathedral spires and acoustic music three nights a week. It’s cool. Indeed, I feel 10% more cool just sitting here. That is, before I gradually realise the tables for two are rather too small to comfortably accommodate a big plate each, two side dishes, wine and water glasses, bottles, and cutlery for each course. And our table wobbles, too. Just as well both my lunch date, S, and I were brought up not to put our elbows on the table. . .
MY PIPERS FARM
VENISON IS SERVED IN TWOINCH THICK SLABS, COOKED TO
PERFECTION
My mood sinks further when a very sweet waiter takes our order without writing it down. Restaurants born in the 2010s love this; punters don’t. (I bet waiters don’t, either). Things look up on the arrival of the food. The menu – modern European with Devonian twists – goes large on fish and meat, with sections entitled From The Sea and From The Land, alongside brunches, sandwiches and salads. We dive straight into the serious stuff. My Pipers Farm venison is served in two-inch thick slabs, perfectly seasoned, cooked to rosy perfection, it is the taste of autumnal England and some of the most delicious meat I have ever eaten. The crispy kale, beetroot and yoghurt on the side are both superbly-cast supporting actors, and the black quinoa, thought it does not convert me to the quinoa fan club, makes me feel like a good girl. S’s celeriac and walnut tart, with its almost caramelised nuts, crisp pastry and marriage of natural, earthy flavours, is also a huge hit; enhanced by an apple and onion salad that is perhaps slightly lacking in apple. Hats off, then, to chef Jack Alden, recently of Magdalen Chapter and ABode. Autumn greens – kale, confit onion and pine nuts – arrive in a little cast iron skillet, and are less exciting; and the so-so skin-on fries are warm, rather than hot. We’d asked the supermodel-esque sommelier for a recommendation, and the Italian Pinot Nero he suggested is spot-on, dark and earthy. There’s a delightful, defiantly ‘nursery’ flavour to the dessert choices: set buttermilk with blackberries and honeycomb, peanut butter parfait, doughnuts (with filling of the day) all leap out. Sadly, we don’t get to try any: because we move tables to talk to someone, get forgotten by staff, and then have to run to a meeting. Our bad. We can only imagine the length of the To Do lists when you’re running a place like this. The effort required to excel, from a standing start, in three separate fields of the hospitality industry. In a tough economic climate. As a nightspot, this place is winning many friends, and rightly so. But as a restaurant there’s some screw-tightening to be done. It’ll get there, because it has brains and balls behind it. And when it does, chef Jack is welcome to braise this review in a skillet and force-feed it to me.
DINING DETAILS The Terrace, Unit 19, Higher Market, Guildhall, Queen Street, Exeter EX4 3FB; 01392 793030; theterraceexeter.com Opening hours Mon-Sat: lunch 12noon-4pm (last booking 3.30pm except for Christmas period weekends, when it will be at 3pm); dinner 6-10/10.30pm (last booking 9.15pm); Sun: 12noon-6.30pm Prices Reasonable – starters from £5, mains from £12; desserts from £4 Vegetarian choice Several great options Disabled access Can’t be faulted – wide doors, large lift etc Drinks About 30 reds, 25 whites, copious list of spirits, classic cocktails, and bottled beers, ales and ciders including local names like Otter and Powderkeg Service/atmosphere Staff lovely and eager, but feel undermanaged
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