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bib, and the aim was for the Heathcock to transfer the same concept of quality food and drinks in a relaxed and informal pub setting. Everything’s made from scratch in the kitchen, from sourdough bread and cultured butter, to pasta and charcuterie; the menu changes daily, and all of the produce is from local suppliers. As I mentioned, my choice was the fantastically fresh Hafod and potato gnocchi with a sweet, verdant pea purée and broad beans. And I followed that with a slow-roast tomato, ricotta and basil rotolo, which positively zinged. How can a course be hearty yet light in equal measure? Who knows, but this Tuscan pasta dish was taut and silky, lling and dainty with a joyous thwack of flavour. Chef ’s not shy with herbs, either, he doesn’t do nely chopped’, he lets the whole leaves dance on the tongue. I haven’t stopped thinking about these colourful, sparkling dishes since they set my taste buds alight. Every night when my husband asks what I fancy for dinner, they’re all that springs to mind. e nished with a thick-set lemon tart full of zest and a satisfyingly crunchy burnished glaze, and a comforting buttermilk pudding with strawberries and moreish honeycomb pieces. If you too would like to be flavour-punched in the mouth by locally produced, lovingly prepared food, get yourself over to the Heathcock, stat. I can’t keep on recreating mediocre versions in my own kitchen, so I’ll see you there soon. n
“I haven’t stopped thinking about these colourful, sparkling dishes” DINING DETAILS Heathcock, 58-60 Bridge Street, Cardiff, CF5 2EN; 029 2115 2290; www.heathcockcardiff.com We ate Welsh roast Angus sirloin with duck-fat potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and veggies; Hafod and potato gnocchi; tomato, ricotta and basil rotolo; lemon tart; and buttermilk pudding with strawberries and honeycomb Drinks They source as much local beer and ale as possible, and the wine list is purely old world Vibe It has an air of unhurried calm and is evidently a favourite spot for locals Head chef Dave Killick, who spent three and a half years at the Hare & Hounds as sous chef What’s new They’ve opened a bakery and coffee shop on the premises. Open from 9am – 4pm, Tue – Sat.
www.mediaclash.co.uk I CARDIFF LIFE I 47
