RESTAURANT Getting funky at Ffresh

Entertainment is great. And dining out is great. But often, not to be found in the same place at the same time. It’s like the fun police have decided you can’t have both. Think flaccid, watery hotdogs at the cinema, theatre fruit pastels and tub of vanilla ice-cream, or smooth, cold, petrol-oil chips at all sporting events. Even more dispiriting is the ‘we’ve got you where we want you’ nasty multiplex chain offerings.

However in these gastronomically evolving times, our expectations have been elevated, and we know we deserve more than a few interval boiled sweets. But how good can the meal in a huge theatre venue like Wales Millennium Centre really be when its primary aim is to stage shows? We’re seeing SIX, the upbeat musical about the sixwives of Henry VIII, in the Donald Gordon Theatre, which seats nearly 2,000 people. To give you an idea of just what a vast hive of drama, musicals, comedies, and talks the WMC really is, there is also the BBC Hoddinott Hall that seats 350 and the Weston StudioTheatrewith a 250 capacity. There is also the huge central space often used for exhibitions, plus two cafés –Caffi and Coffe Mania – and the multiple bars on various levels. There’s the Awen Bar, Horizons Bar, the Stones Bar, and Ffresh bar and kitchen, which also acts as a cabaret lounge and restaurant, and is where we’re dining tonight.

I’ll be honest, there are a few other things that are making me nervous –the website proclaiming things like ‘small plates‚ large plates, big smiles’ makes it sound like we’re headed for the land of happy meals, and more blurb that reads, ‘No matter how hungry you are, our winter menu is guaranteed to make your taste buds sing, just like our performers on stage.’ ‘Oh hi, I’ll have a large helping of cheesy, with a side of corny please.’ Sarah Moolla finds out fflavour and ffun can co-star when she visits the Wales Millennium Centre

Queasy uneasiness about wording aside, the actual winter menu choices read great – appealing, varied and made with Welsh ingredients. We go for a selection of small plates of which there are five to choose from: lemon and lime salmon fishcake with tomato salsa; battered brie wedges with an apricot compote; Asian salad with charred tofu or chicken; and calamari and cheese coated with rice noodles; and the only one we don’t order is the parsnip and mushroom nut bombe with fire roasted tomato. On the waiter’s very smart recommendation, we add a side of sweet potato fries, which are amazing. A beautiful blaze orange in colour, they arrive piping hot in that straight from the deep-fat-fryer way, and thin with roughed up, crispy seasoned edges that are ideal for dredging through the garlic mayo they came with. Yes, I can hear you heckle ‘But it’s just a chip!’ – but honestly these Ffresh chips really are scene stealers. However, everything served is more than just a supporting act – stand out dishes are the calamari and soft cheese coated with crispy rice noodles, which sounds all kinds of wrong but is actually all kinds of deliciousness, and the brie wedges, which are lightly fried in panko-breadcrumbs to create comforting, oozing, gooey, pungent parcels. They come with an apricot dipping compote sidekick which delivers a lovely touch of tang. Having experienced the credible and high standard of the small plates, we both agree we would go back to go large, without even seeing a show. Big plate choices tonight include baked salmon fillet with parsley sauce; giant pig in blanket with creamy mashed potato and peas; and a nut roast of chestnuts, brown rice, mushrooms and cranberries.

This time though it’s a pre-performance big glass of deeply delicious red wine, to accompany our puddings – a hefty unctuousslab of fudgy, chocolate brownie; and a creamy, mousse-like, caramelised cheesecake with a crunchy honeyed biscuit base.

Adding to the feel-good factor, is the atmosphere. The foyer is filling up with women of all ages here for SIX, and there’s a real party vibe going on. Whether you’re here for a show, to dine, to meet friends, or to simply have a drink, the friendly and ritzy Ffresh bar and kitchen ensures they all get equal billing. n

DINING DETAILS Ffresh, Wales Millennium Centre, Bute Place, Cardiff, CF10 5AL; tel: 029 2063 6465; www.wmc.org.uk Opening hours Mon-Thurs 5pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 5pm-12am, Sun 12pm-4pm; open from 12pm on matinée show days Chef Cindy Challoner Type of food served Contemporary small and large plates made with the finest Welsh ingredients Covers 80-100 Outdoor space Teras at Ffresh is the new outdoor seating area Prices Small plates start £6.50-£7.50, large plates are £14, desserts £5-£5.50 Vegetarian and vegan Yes Disability access Yes Atmosphere A buzzy and welcoming cabaret vibe