A F T E R S
as more formal seating, suitable for sit-down meals. They’ve managed to fit a lot into the space but it doesn’t feel cramped, with the large windows letting in plenty of light. There’s even a fireplace at the back, which lends that area a cosy, lounge-type feel. It’s an inviting space that’s great for cocktails, coffee or a bite to eat, whether you plan to catch a film or not. Speaking of which, considering that the Tivoli is, first and foremost, a cinema, the menu is pretty impressive. To drink there are cocktails – many with a cinematic spin, like the Popcorn Espresso Martini – as well as wines, spirits and beers (draught and bottles). The food ranges from nachos and hot dogs – as you’d expect at your local picture house, albeit minus the addition of wild boar meat, perhaps – to stonebaked pizzas and small plates, of which I can vouch for the salt and pepper squid (£5.90), with its crisp batter and tender meat. But let’s return to that cinema staple for a minute – the hot dog (£6.90). Here you can have it in ‘chilli dog’ form with sriracha mayo or, as we did, made from wild boar meat. For around £1.50 more than the usual chain cinema offerings, this is a triumph, with good flavour and a pretty juicy texture. An onion jam offers a nicely sticky sweetness and gherkins lay on top to cut through the rich meat. And – as is so often not the case anymore – a side of skin-on fries is included as standard (with an option to upgrade to sweet potato fries for a quid). If you’re not feeling particularly hungry or fancy more of a grazing session, the range of small plates is ideal, as are the cheese, continental meat, and mezze boards. The latter (£11 for one, £21 for two) comes with pea and mint falafel, marinated olives, roasted peppers, houmous, tzatziki and flatbread. Those falafels were particularly good; fresh, bright green peas that hold their flavour well – a sure sign they have been prepared in-house (or scratch-cooked,
as the venue calls it). The only slight disappointments were the duck croquettes with plum sauce (£5.80), which just didn’t do it for me, and the salted caramel sundae (£5), being heavy on the cream and light on texture and flavour. Staff are friendly and polite without being over familiar, and even on the weekday afternoon we visited there were a few other tables in – freelancers and students drinking coffee and grazing as they worked on their laptops. The most impressive thing about the food experience here for me, though, is the prices – especially considering the quality you get. (I can’t speak for the popcorn, though – have you ever been to a cinema where that’s reasonably priced? Didn’t think so).
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Tovoli, 6-8 Dorchester Street, Southgate, Bath BA1 1SS; tivolicinemas.com