S STTA A RRT E T RS E R S
New Kid kid on on the the Block block New When did you begin cooking? I began cooking at home with my mum, who was a great baker. Money was tight, so we’d make our own pasties and cakes to make food stretch. I didn’t just learn to cook from that; we cooked and ate together, which was really good family time. What inspired you to start in a kitchen full time? Professionally, I started when I was 13 at the hotel where my dad was the General Manager. I loved it from day one, went to college to train, and then went to the Savoy Hotel in London. What’ve been the big challenges? Every job has its challenges, and I’ve tried to take on new roles where I can improve the food and influence the menu. I guess Highbullen will be my greatest challenge to date, as it is the biggest place I’ve been a Head Chef and we are starting from scratch, but that is great – the bigger the challenge, the bigger the reward. And your proudest achievement? I’m proud of every job I’ve had. I’ve had the pleasure and privilege to work in the kitchens of some stunning properties, and consider myself very lucky to have worked for – and, indeed, have had work for me – some amazing and talented people.
STARTING FROM SCRATCH Expect exploding flavours and great ingredients cooked well, says Stephen Walker, new Head Chef at North Devon’s Highbullen Hotel, Golf and Country Club
Where might we know you from? I spent the last eight years at the Mount Somerset Hotel in Taunton, which was great. It is an absolutely beautiful hotel, and it holds a lot of fond memories for me. How would you describe your style? My cooking is very simple now. I’ve just arrived at High Bullen, where I want to cook great food simply. And what a great place to do it this is: it offers an opportunity to do all sorts of different food types, and is growing, so it’s an exciting time to be joining. What do you like about Devon? I’ve lived in the South West now for 10 years, and wouldn’t want to work or
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live anywhere else. I can’t think of anywhere that has such a diverse offering of exciting suppliers. Where do you like to eat out? I try to eat out as often as I can. Clavelshay Barn in Bridgewater is a great place to eat, and also Combe House – which has just reopened as The Pig at Combe, so I will have to check out the new menu there. Fave ingredients and suppliers? We’re using lots of local fish, sea vegetables and delicious Cornish new potatoes. I’m lucky to have John May butchers in South Molton on the doorstep, so the meat we’re getting is excellent. We’re using a lot of scallops and pork belly right now, with cauliflower and curry – a great combo. What do you like to cook at home? Simple food – a Caesar salad with a bottle of Peroni, or a good bacon sandwich (but it has to be dry cured bacon, with Malaysian chilli sauce, a flashback from working with a great Malaysian chef for eight years). And the best meal you’ve eaten? I was part of a chef competition a few years ago and went to Chez Nicos for dinner – it was amazing! I still remember the veal sweetbreads. What’s your favourite cookery book? My favourites are still The Square Restaurant cookbooks. He has a simple way of making food beautiful, and it’s amazingly clever. Who are your foodie heroes? I’ve lots, but they’re not people you would necessarily know. James Parkinson, who taught me you can run a kitchen and be nice to people; Simon Haigh for really helping me understand food combinations; Sean Naen for showing me how to make food explode with flavour; and my first-ever head chef, Eric Pittock, for teaching me about life as a chef and dealing with the stress. Hi, Chefy! ✱ www.highbullen.co.uk
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