PROPER PUBS
THE GLOBE INN IF YOU LIKE A PROPER PUB WITH LOADS OF WELL-SOURCED MEAT ON THE MENU, THEN MAKE THE GLOBE INN YOUR NEXT STOP, SAYS MELISSA STEWART
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ometimes in life you just hanker for some proper meaty goodness, and this is exactly what you can expect at The Globe Inn, in the quaint village of Lympstone in East Devon. Forget cleaneating and trying to be ‘good’; when you hit this pub it’s all about the hearty cuts of meat and all the sides to go with. Run by the same team behind the Pig & Pallet in Topsham and Good Game charcuterie, these guys know their meat and how to serve it. Unlike the Pig & Pallet, which takes its interior influences from an American-style diner, this is a proper English pub with a log burner, rustic wooden tables and a handful of locals propping up the bar. The menu, however, very much takes its cues from both the Deep South and the Great British pub tradition. Pulled pork, rack of ribs, burgers and steak all sit alongside pub favourites like Scotch egg, ham, egg and chips, steak pie and sausage and mash. As I said, this place is very much a meat eater’s paradise, but vegetarians are catered for too, with macaroni cheese, a honity pie and herbivore burger.
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CRUMBSMAG.COM
I start with spider crab croquettes – a smooth, sweet combination of crab meat and beshamel sauce – with garlic aioli and sweet chilli dip. My table companion goes for slow roast pork belly with a zingy peanut sauce. Both are devilishly moreish, particularly when washed down with a refreshing beer (in my case, a zero alcohol Heineken which happily hits the spot). For main, I stray from my usual territory and go all out with a Philly cheese steak baguette served with chips. It’s humongous – easily enough for two – but I don’t let it stop me. The highlight is the tangy Philly cheese sauce – a mix of beer, cheese and paprika – which, dare I say it, tastes like a flippin’ amazing nacho cheese sauce. It has a proper kick. The slivers of steak are moist, tender and served in a bouncy soft bread roll, rather than a heavy, crusty baguette, much more pleasing to my already bulging tummy. My dining pal goes down the more traditional English pub route with her venison loin steak, shot locally in Devon, alongside a Chimichurri sauce. It comes with the works; grilled mushroom, tomato, onion rings, mash and peas. The meat isn’t pink but it’s juicy, tender and the knife glides through it. The Chimichurri is fresh and piquant. Fit to burst, we almost avoid pudding but then are tempted by an Exploding Bakery toffee and apple crumble with ice cream. I’m defeated after a few mouthfuls but that’s no criticism of the dish, which is unctuous and sticky and only lacking a few more bites of apple. If you like proper, hearty pub food with a dose of Americana thrown in, then this pub will do the job. Might I just recommend you wear some loose-fitting clothes or do some hearty exercise on the Exe Estuary beforehand, because you’re definitely going to leave feeling full.
globelympstone.co.uk