R E S TA U R A N T
FOOD
Framptons Cafe Bar and Kitchen One of the latest additions to Bath’s foodie scene boasts a cool interior, a bar you could easily spend an entire evening at, and a menu featuring indulgent gastropub classics By L I SA E VA NS
T
YOU’RE
onight I’m feeling pretty cool. Firstly, I’m being hosted for dinner by a former British Army paratrooper in one of Bath’s most fascinating landmark buildings, and then I’m going to watch Pearl Jam in concert (albeit at the Kingsmead Complex’s Odeon cinema, but let’s ignore that considerably less cool part). For the purpose of this review, though, I’m obviously only going to concentrate on the meal. It’s at Framptons on the corner of the majestic Grade-II listed, 102ft tall Empire building in Grand Parade, and I’ve been looking forward to testing it out since it opened in the summer. On this dusky evening, you definitely can’t miss the restaurant, with its fairy lights sprinkled across the frontage. It’s certainly a stopand-stare moment when you glimpse the twinkling, magnificent building on your right, and have the view of Pulteney Bridge and Weir on your left. What a perfect spot (especially on 4 November when firework-watchers can grab a window seat to catch sight of the display at The Rec – a snippet of advice from us to you). Walk into the newly refurbished space, which replaces the La Tasca tapas bar, and you’re greeted by an atmospheric, moody scene with an Art Deco edge and little splashes of glamour. There’s a gentleman’s club vibe, with its dim lighting, embossed black walls, exposed brickwork and chunky bookcases; and the team behind Framptons – Ed McAdam, Sam Westlake and Tom Walker – has worked hard to breathe new life into the tasteful, high-ceilinged surroundings. They’ve respectfully paid homage to the building’s history (the Empire Hotel opened in 1901), making features out of its original fireplaces, floorboards and ornate cornicing.
GREETED
BY AN ATMOSPHERIC,
MOODY SCENE WITH AN ART DECO
EDGE
Ed – who served as an officer in the British Army’s Parachute Regiment with Sam and Tom before setting up Framptons – plays host to myself and my dining partner. Once at the table, he talks us through the pleasing menu and how important it is that they offer vegan and glutenfree choices as well as ‘local’ (the word appears on the menu five times) ingredients wherever possible. Expertly prepared by head chef Nora Joó-Kovács and her team, the tempting dishes include crispy baby squid with chilli and garlic; venison with rosemary fondant potatoes and a sloe gin reduction; and a flame-grilled steak and bacon cheeseburger. My culinary journey begins with three soft and strong blue vinny tarts served with candied walnuts – providing sweetness and crunch – and a sharp apple salad which electrifies the taste buds. My comrade goes for jammy roasted figs with Dorset cured pork loin and thick, smoky goats’ cheese slices. Although the shredded, smoked confit duck burger looks to be a contender for main, my companion moves on to a salaciously juicy 28-day aged sirloin steak served with hand-cut chips, roasted-on-the-vine cherry tomatoes which burst out of their blistered skins, and some rather powerful garlic butter. And I opt for the wild mushroom risotto, which is firm yet creamy and is served with garlic and thyme crostini. Sadly, even though we stepped foot in the restaurant just an hour and 45 minutes ago, we don’t have time for dessert because Eddie Vedder’s waiting for us, but we’ve promised ourselves we’ll revisit Framptons for puddings next week. We’ve already chosen what we’ll have: boozy affogato, and ale and chocolate lava cake with ice cream. We’ll also squeeze in a few cocktails at the particularly inviting, funky bar on our return (they offer 13 types of gin, so it’s a no-brainer). It seems Framptons is already making a very popular name for itself in the city, and it’s surely breathing new life into the all-too-often overlooked Grand Parade area in grand style.
DINING DETAILS Framptons Cafe Bar & Kitchen, The Empire, Grand Parade, Bath, BA2 4DF; 01225 313680; www.framptonsbar.co.uk Prices Starters £6 – £7; mains £13.50 – £22.50; desserts £4 – £6.50 Drinks As well as a vast range of wines to choose from, there’s an extensive collection of cocktails and gins Service/atmosphere Attentive, casual and atmospheric
www.mediaclash.co.uk I BATH LIFE I 71