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Combe Grove

We make a beeline for the beautifully revamped Brassknocker Hill eatery stealing into the spotlight By L I SA E VA NS

hen the first thing you spot on walking up to a restaurant is a majestic, withintouching-distance deer nibbling on wild flowers, as you watch captivated, while frantically shushing your heavyfooted partner, you hope the rest of the evening is going to be just as charming. You also know that you won’t be ordering the venison. As Combe Grove Manor is set atop a hill within 70 acres of woodland, the receptionist blinks indifference at my Disneylike encounter; beautiful creatures aren’t so special when you see them through the window every day, I guess. I notice how much of an influence the natural world has had on the interior design of the hotel, though; there’s a hand-painted arboreal mural covering the vaulted ceiling of the dining room, and taxidermy, skulls and striking animal sculptures decorate the halls. As interesting as it is, my attention is immediately drawn away from the art when I catch sight of the view unfurling vertiginously through the open rear doorway. It spreads for miles over the patchwork rolling valley of Limpley Stoke, and on this clear day even the Westbury White Horse is visible. The stately Grade-II listed house itself has a long history; the first mention of a dwelling on the current site comes from 1698, and among the celebrated permanent guests over the years was the actor and composer Ivor Novello. It was taken over most recently in 2015 and since then has undergone a dramatic transformation, led by managing director Rebecca Whittington – who helped create Cornwall’s well regarded Scarlet Hotel. The bedrooms and public areas have been given a much-needed colourful facelift; a stylish new cocktail bar – the opulent focal point of the hotel – has gilt-framed mirrors, an intriguing art collection from Bath’s Beaux Arts and a glamorous copper top to the bar itself; and the award-winning head chef Leigh Evans – who formerly headed up the kitchen team at The Chequers, Bath, and before that worked at the Royal Crescent Hotel alongside the talented Gordon Jones – has been making quite an impact in the kitchen. When it comes to his cooking, Leigh and his team can even make the bread exciting. The fresh, warm mini loaf is served with the most exquisite goats’ cheese and pickle butter; and probably one of the biggest mistakes I make, although I don’t regret it, is to order, and fill up on, a second loaf. If I’d have known we were about to be served 10 dishes, I may have reconsidered. It’s suggested by our waitress that the

PILING MY FORK

WITH ALL THE ELEMENTS, SOME BURST ON THE ROOF OF THE MOUTH WHILE OTHERS ARE COARSE, AND SOME ARE

FRAGILE

chef whips up a medley of his favourite menu choices so that we can properly see the broad range they offer. We gladly accept, and begin with a dish of tuna tartare for my dining partner, and a curious celeriac velouté for me. The tuna is cured and is served with watermelon, cucumber, radish and wasabi – a chirpy, zingy fusion of flavours – and my dish is quite surprising. The waitress says ‘the soup for you, miss’, but what’s placed in front of me is a bowl of prettily arranged Granny Smith strips, apple blossom and crème fraîche – not a hint of velouté in sight. But just before she leaves, the waitress pours a hot, creamy stream on to the fruit – I’m guessing they leave it until last so you have a few moments to appreciate the artful presentation. The nutty-edged flavour of the velvety soup combined with the bursts of sharpness from the bitesized apple submerged within it is both bizarre and brilliant. My next course is an intriguing textural playground – a salad of poached and raw nectarine with set goats’ milk, honey, sorrel, pine nuts and dandelion. Piling my fork with all the elements, some burst on the roof of the mouth while others are coarse, and some are fragile. My dining partner goes for the fleshy scallops served with smoked pork belly, purposely singed cauliflower, and cumin-dusted cauliflower pakora. Then it’s onto a plate of still-pink wood pigeon accompanied by black pudding, peas and chicory for him; the trimmings don’t stop there, though – there’s the unexpected addition of granola, orange and caramel, too. An unusual union, but the acidity of the orange cuts through the seared, succulent meat, the caramel adds comfort and richness, and the granola brings a welcome crunch. Then, for me, it’s my favourite dish of them all, a sweet, smooth beetroot risotto which teams beautifully with a goats’ cheese beignet and toasted walnuts; although the portion is petite, the combination is classic and bold. My main of pasta bolognaise isn’t one that I’d order again, but this is due to taste preferences rather than it being a poor dish in itself. Although I normally relish powerful, strong ingredients, the vibrantly green basil tagliatelle (with yet more dollops of potent basil sauce ornamenting the plate) tastes almost medicinal and overpowers the kidney bean ragù – which isn’t as saucy as I’d have liked. But the presentation is beautiful and the dish is topped with a delicate, freeze-dried tomato slice and is punched up with fragments of parmesan crisps. My comrade’s main of pork fillet, on the other hand, is exquisite, and is served along with salty prosciutto ham, braised pork cheek, blue cheese and broccoli. What my main lacked, the dessert of iced lemon parfait, lime curd (so rich it’s an almost caramel consistency) and rosemary gin fizz, more than made up for. It was even better when teamed with a lavender-infused gin cocktail. Combe Grove’s treats don’t stop there; with a leisure club, spa, and individually designed hotel rooms that welcome and inspire, the stunning manor house comes highly recommended by us from all aspects.

DINING DETAILS Combe Grove Hotel & Spa, Brassknocker Hill, Bath, BA2 7HU; 01225 834644; www.combegrove.com Prices Six-course tasting menu £55 per person; starters £7 – £9; mains £12 – £26; desserts £7 – £10 Vegetarian choice A comprehensive separate menu Wine list A concise but broad selection Service/atmosphere Attentive and friendly/ quirky and chilled out