The magazine for the professional brewing industry
Brewers J o u r n a l 36 | coldchain: yvan seth sets out his stall
29 | no-alcohol: where next in the growing market
April 2019 | Volume 4, issue 3 ISSN 2059-6669
46 | water: innovation in a challenging sector
Bohem brewery Leading London’s Lager revolution
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the good, the bad and the unknown
T
here's a GIF online that shows Clint Eastwood in The Good, The Bad and The Ugly exchanging suspicious glances with two other characters. Except, with it being the internet and all, someone has added a confused-looking cat to the mix and the scene becomes all the more tense. Well, kind of... I can't help but feel that those sentiments are rife in the modern beer industry. Does community and camaraderie still exist? Of course. Is the market more competitive? No doubt. Is there room for growth? I'm certain. But, it seems, more and more businesses are looking after number one. And ultimately, who can blame them? It is business, after all. A brewery such as Cloudwater, for a fair while, gave a pretty detailed breakdown of its hop and malt bill on the label of each beer it rolled out in small pack. It was a welcome insight into the recipe's formulation but it's something the brewery has since moved away from. The brewery's founder, Paul Jones, said such a possibility was on the horizon when interviewed in this publication last year, so it's far from surprising. And again, it's their prerogative when it comes to revealing how much of each recipe they share. Move the dial and then you have the confirmation that Fuller's was selling its brewing business to Asahi. Such news hit a lot of people hard. Other breweries could sell, sure. But not Fuller's. That brewery is older than everyone reading this, and most of us would assume it would be there after us, too. The shockwaves are surely only starting to be felt. Georgina Young, the proud head brewer, in the role for less than two years (but with Fuller's since 1999), has already moved on. Others will follow, no doubt. One only hopes the great work the brewery has been doing with collaborations and small batch beers continue, and the hard-working staff are treated in the correct manner. A little more than three miles away from the Fuller's Griffin Brewery is The Beer Boutique, or should I say,
brewersjournal.info
editor's choice My colleague Velo Mitrovich explores the no-alcohol sector, and the growth opportunities that exist - page 29
was The Beer Boutique. A mainstay in the retail space since 2011, the bottle shop, along with its branches in nearby Wandsworth and Tunbridge Wells in Kent, shut abruptly at the end of March. The future of the We Brought Beer stores, a business Beer Boutique merged with back in 2018, also look uncertain. And it's that uncertainty over any semblance of continuity that seems, in my humble opinion, to be clouding parts of the industry in 2019. Though, of course, I acknowledge the London-centric nature of the above. Either way, I'm hopeful things will improve. There is good news, though! Congratulations to Big Smoke in Surrey on the launch of their new brewery. There will also be more positive stories ahead, I'm sure. Until next time, enjoy the issue. u Tim Sheahan Editor
April 2019
3
co ntac t s
contacts Tim Sheahan Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592 Ryan Horwood Head of sales ryan@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 593 Josh Henderson Sales executive josh@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 594 Jon Young Publisher jon@rebymedia.com Reby Media 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1PA, UK
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co nte nt s
contents 20
46
36
9
29
Cover story 22 - The team at London's Bohem Brewery have a commitment to quality and a core. With that, they're making some of the capital's best beers.
comments 16 - How the cloud can be used for smarter decision making & improved scalability 18 - The issues to consider when sending out your beers to be packaged
41 - Why portable cold storage presents an alternative for those looking for chilling solutions 44 - The lowdown on Star Refrigeration's installation at BrewDog's Ellon brewery
Sector | water Dear John 20 - John Keeling reflects on life post-Fuller's and the journeys that lie ahead
46 - The importance of best practice and ensuring control protocols are up to date 50 - How self-supply is changing the water procurement landscape in the UK
style | no alcohol beers 29 - The no-alcohol market remains on a growth trajectory and with it, so does the opportunity for breweries both big and small
focus | refrigeration 36 - Yvan Seth, founder of Jolly Good Beer explores the uptake and implementation of Coldchain distribution in the UK
6
April 2019
crossing continents | short finger brewing co 52 - How Rob and Kate Hern founded a brewing supply business in Canada before starting a brewery of their very own
science | fermentation 57 - Why yeast is a driver of innovation in beer
Brewers Journal
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Georgina Young leaves Fuller’s to take up head brewer role at Bath Ales
S
t Austell has appointed Georgina Young as the new head brewer for its Bath Ales operation.
Young leaves London-based Fuller’s, which she joined
as a production brewer back in 1999, to take up the role at Bath Ales’ Hare Brewery. As head brewer at Bath Ales, which was acquired by St Austell in 2016, Young will report to St Austell Brewery and Bath Ales brewing director, Roger Ryman. Young started her brewing career at Smiles Brewery working alongside Richard Dempster, one of the founders of Bath Ales. She then went on to run the pilot brewery at the Brewing Research Institute before joining Fuller’ in 1999, where she served in roles across all aspects of production. She ascended to the role of Head Brewer in 2017. Young also holds a Masters degree in Brewing & Distilling and is a Master Brewer of the Institute of Brewing and Distilling. Roger Ryman brewing Director at St Austell Brewery
over for some time. So when a great brewer like St Austell
and Bath Ales, said: “George and I have known each
offered me such a fantastic opportunity, I just couldn’t say
other for many years, both as brewers and friends. I’m
no.
therefore hugely excited that she’ll be joining our brewing
"The role at Bath Ales will allow me to take total control
and production team at Hare Brewery. I look forward to
of the operation – including brewing and packaging –
working and brewing alongside her in the years to come.”
which gives me a new challenge. It’s sad to be leaving
Georgina Young, added: “I’m delighted to be heading
Fuller’s after all these years – but I’ve left a first class
back to my home town of Bristol – it’s where my parents
brewing team at Chiswick and I know they will flourish in
and sister still live and it’s something I’ve been mulling
the future.”
Greene King appoints new head brewer
G
reene King has appointed Ross O’Hara as its new head brewer.
O’Hara becomes the 17th head brewer to take the role
during the Suffolk-based brewery’s 220 years in business. He joined Greene King as a shift brewer in 2016 with
responsible for the development of new brands including the award winning Heritage range, Yardbird Pale Ale, Gluten Free Old Speckled Hen, and the brewery’s seasonal beer range. He has also been instrumental in the development of the new industry wide brewing apprentice-ship scheme which launched earlier this year. Matt Starbuck, managing director of Greene King
a first class honours degree in brewing from Heriot
Brewing & Brands said: “Ross is a highly knowledgeable
Watt University. He subsequently became new product
and capable brewer, passionate about brewing with an
development brewer, as well as overseeing the brewery’s
excep-tional technical ability and flair for innovation.
apprenticeship scheme. Last summer O’Hara, 28, became the world’s youngest Master Brewer, when he completed the four year course from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling, alongside his role at Greene King. Since joining Greene King, O’Hara has been
brewersjournal.info
"He is a great advocate for brewing as a career opportunity, encouraging the development of others and driving forward our brewing apprentice scheme. "We are delighted to make this appointment as we look ahead to an exciting next chapter for Greene King brewing.”
April 2019
9
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Butcombe Brewing Company streamlines supply chain Purchasing Group, also based in the South West. Alice Bowyer, Group Executive Chef at Butcombe Brewery, said: “We have a 40-strong managed and tenanted pub estate which includes everything from a three-Rosette country house hotel to gastro-pubs and wet-led premises. “We had over 35 different suppliers for food across the group, which, even when we had just nine or ten pubs, was difficult to manage, with low profit margins. “Last year we bought 15 new businesses so that, in itself, brought a lot of challenges. We did not really understand where we were buying from, who from, and had little control. “Regency have a lot of knowledge of the industry and a lot of understanding as to what we should be paying, from who, and their advice has been invaluable. “Our overall experience of working with Regency has been fantastic. I see Regency more as a department of our own company than a supplier.” Alex Demetriou, managing Director of the Regency Group, added: “Over the past two years we have worked to help consolidate Butcombe’s supply chain throughout their pub estate. “The reduction in food miles has been achieved by streamlining suppliers, using an increasing number of local suppliers and sourcing more produce from local
B
utcombe Brewing Company, which also operates more than 40 pubs, has had its supply chain
growers. “It has been a very challenging time for the industry
streamlined, resulting in a reduction of 843,879 food
and we’ve seen more and more businesses turn to
miles.
procurement companies like ours to help maintain trading
The reduction in food miles was made possible
margins or even to enhance food margins in order to help
through Butcombe’s partnership with the Regency
counterbalance the increases in labour costs.”
Real Ale opens third site
We can’t wait to get started!” To celebrate the launch of the new store, Real Ale
eal Ale, the independent London-based retailer
R
is combining forces with two of its favourite producers
specialising in craft beer, natural wine, cider and
for the first time to create a new collaboration brew.
spirits from small producers has opened its third, and
Throughout the year Real Ale will run a series of events,
largest shop and taproom, in Notting Hill.
hosting brewers, cidermakers, winemakers, spirit
The new store will offer a rotating selection of beers
producers and suppliers for tastings and discussions.
and wines available on tap, with an Enomatic wine
The taproom will host a number of tap takeovers with
dispenser for sampling high-end wines. Everything from
independent breweries from all over the country,
the retail range will be available to drink in.
showcasing one-off and seasonal releases.
Retail manager Tim Peyton said, “Our aim is to create
Real Ale’s first shop opened on Richmond Road, East
a comfortable and inviting space for people to discover
Twickenham in 2005 to champion locally brewed, high-
delicious drinks from small producers all over the world.
quality beers.
10
April 2019
Brewers Journal
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Firestone Walker to launch new IPA in UK roots in the East Coast of the US, but all the way back to southeastern Germany and the Bavarian Hefeweizens of lore. “I recently spent some time at Gutmann brewery in Titting, and they have this amazing beer called Weizenbock,” he said. “It’s this beautiful 7.2 percent ABV hazy beer with a creamy mouth-feel and a tropicalbanana aroma that fits right in with the hazy IPAs of today—and yet they’ve been making it for more than 50 years.” He added: “We’re not relying on residual yeasts or starches for turbidity. The haziness and mouthfeel of Mind Haze are cultivated by more stable means, namely using 40 percent wheat and oats in the grain bill while nailing the timing and interplay of our hop additions. “We are drawing from our past experience in making Hefeweizens, and then aiming to amplify the esters gained from a specially chosen yeast and an array of
F
irestone Walker is launching Mind Haze, its new hazy IPA, in the UK.
The beer, which launches in mid April, is the
really fruity hops.” The branding of Mind Haze is a nod to the marine mists that routinely envelop California’s Central Coast—
culmination of time spent tinkering with the style,
and to the idea of a beer that messes with perceptions of
retooling and refining the beer with several R&D batches.
what a hazy IPA can be.
Brewmaster Matt Brynildson said he and his team
He said: “We are not claiming to reinvent the style—we
wanted to put their own stamp on the style and create a
want Mind Haze to offer the best of what people expect
beer that would stand shoulder to shoulder with Firestone
from a hazy IPA. That said, we’re going about it in a little
Walker’s other IPAs in terms of quality and shelf stability.
different way, and I think that’s what gives Mind Haze its
For Brynildson, the hazy IPA style doesn’t just have
Low shear pumps find ideal partner in brewing industry
own unique signature.”
for gentle handling with long radius bends and a large enough diameter to keep liquid velocity below 2 m/s. As well as the gentle handling properties of such
U
sing low shear screw centrifugal impeller pumps
a pump, the low NPSH values has the positive effect
promote gentle handling characteristics imperative
of reducing the changes of pump cavitation in all
to the beer production process, delivering clearer beer to
installations. High solids content in the pumped medium,
the fermenter, according to Hidrostal.
which is normal for a brewery, can easily be handled with
The company, the UK subsidiary of the Swiss
the pump.
manufacturer, said the gentle handling of malt mash
It is important to understand that not all pumps are
improves brewing as it avoids shearing the grist and
the same and in fact very few centrifugal solids handling
destroying endosperm and husk particles within the
pumps are low shear. The company’s pump differentiates
mash. Its pumps, the company explained, speed up
itself as derived from the unique impeller geometry,
wort transfers and allow you to recirculate your mash. It
its gentle handling characteristics are combined with
improves the clarity of the beer, saves times and improve
exceptionally large free passages delivering excellent
efficiency.
solids handling capabilities.
If low shear is deemed to be important and will
Extremely versatile in its application, the impeller
improve results, i.e. in whirlpool feeding, it is wise to
provides efficient handling of a range of liquids including
decide early and make sure that sufficient space is
those highly abrasive or corrosive in nature. It is ideal
available and pipe layouts are correct for a low shear
for solids handling and handling delicate or low shear
pump. In addition, the pipe layout should also be suitable
products.
12
April 2019
Brewers Journal
Canning lines & Brewhouses
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wo r ld
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top craft breweries in the US revealed
P
all or part of 2018.
annual list of the top 50 craft brewing companies in the
brewer. Small: Annual production of 6 million barrels of
US.
beer or less (approximately 3 percent of U.S. annual sales).
ennsylvania-based D.G. Yuengling & Son has retained the top spot in the the Brewers Association (BA)
The rankings, which are devised on projected 2018
An American craft brewer is a small and independent
Beer production is attributed to the rules of alternating
sales volumes, featured Boston Beer Company in second
proprietorships. Independent: Less than 25 percent of
and Sierra Nevada third.
the craft brewery is owned or controlled (or equivalent
Elsewhere, Canarchy Craft Brewery Collective that
economic interest) by an alcoholic beverage industry
comprises Cigar City Brewing, Deep Ellum Brewing, Oskar
member that is not itself a craft brewer. Brewer: Has a TTB
Blues, Perrin Brewing, Three Weavers Brewing and Utah
Brewer’s Notice and makes beer.
Brewers Cooperative, moved up to eighth. Stone Brewing, on the other hand, fell a spot, to ninth position. The BA also released its list of the top 50 overall
“Although the market has grown more competitive, particularly for regional craft breweries with the widest distribution, these 50 small and independent brewing
brewing companies. Of these 40 were small and
companies continue to lead the craft brewing market in
independent craft brewing companies. According to the
sales through strong brands, quality, and innovation,” said
BA, these businesses met the craft brewer definition for
Bart Watson, chief economist at the Brewers Association.
Ska Fabricating installs 500th Depalletizer
Beer Works in Austin, Texas, and was eventually sold to
The first Can-i-Bus depalletizer was sold to Austin Buffalo Bayou Brewing Company in Houston when ABW
S
ka Fabricating has installed its 500th Can-i-Bus Depalletizer, ordered by AleSmith Brewing Company
purchased a newer model. Ska Fabricating now has customers that are located in
in San Diego. Its Can-i-Bus depalletizer is the best-selling
48 states in the U.S., with provinces across Canada as well
sub-400 CPM can depalletizer in the world, the company
as 21 countries worldwide.
said.
14
April 2019
Brewers Journal
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DME to reopen after being bought by Dutch firm CETP C
harlottetown-based DME is under new ownership
operates in brewing through its Ziemann Holvrieka and
after being purchased by CIMC Enric Tank & Process
Briggs brands.
B.V. (CETP), a subsidiary of CIMC ENRIC Holdings. The DME and Newlands (NSI) brands will now operate
The acquisition provides the CETP group the opportunity to strengthen its position in the overall
as DME Process Systems after CETP, based out of the
brewing market and further increase its manufacturing
Netherlands, purchased the business.
footprint in Canada.
DME Process Systems will continue to manufacture
“We are very excited to be a part of this prestigious
both the DME and NSI brands out of the Charlottetown
international group of companies,” explained Marc de
location, which is operational as of today.
Jong, managing director of DME Process Systems. “Their
Although DME Process Systems is a new entity, they
innovation, market presence, manufacturing locations and
will work with previously installed DME and NSI breweries
experience will further strengthen our already globally
for any parts, service or expansion needs.
recognized brands.”
DME, one of the most respected brewing equipment
Ko Brink, CEO of CETP, added: “The DME Group brings
manufacturers in North America, was forced to cease
us an experienced team as well as a great customer base,
operations at the end of November last year after it was
which allows us to further increase our presence in North
issued an order by the Supreme Court of Prince Edward
America. Adding DME/NSI to our group brings two strong
Island in Canada.
brands in the (craft) brewing industry that will highly
Its new owners, the CETP group of companies
contribute to our existing brand portfolio.”
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brewersjournal.info
April 2019
15
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software
Look to the cloud Providing anytime, anywhere access to data – even on a brewery production line – can help improve productivity and drive operational efficiencies. Yet there remains a reluctance to embrace cloud services such as Software as a Service. Andy Graham, Wonderware product manager at SolutionsPT, looks at how the cloud can be used to enable smarter decision making, improved scalability, security and mobility. by Andy Graham
efficiencies. For those required to provide regular data to third parties, cloud can help ensure that data is readily available and collated, ready to be securely accessed whenever it’s needed. Multi-location operators are other potential beneficiaries. When data is fed to the cloud, a business can get a real-time overview of the operation and performance of all its sites, making it easier to compare productivity and measure efficiencies. Connectivity within each site is also improved, paving the way for the implementation of mobility across the facility. This gives everybody who needs it instant access to real-time data and analytics of the running of the plant. Modern mobile technologies are such that this can now be tailored to specific areas, meaning relevant data is
M
made available when engineers walk into a different zone.
anufacturing environments today are
Improving Overall Equipment Effectiveness (OEE) is
filled with multiple devices collecting
another key driver for switching to the cloud. Its ability
data from every end point – brewing
to monitor and react to data means systems outages
industries being no exception.
can be pinpointed before they become a reality and
A typical site can easily generate, and
store, millions of data points every day. Harnessing that data is vital for effective decision making, but finding a way to access, analyse and manage it is easier said than done. Many manufacturers fear connectivity, believing it opens the door to security breaches, but for any company
cause downtime – a key consideration on busy drinks production lines. Similarly, system updates require no expensive hardware, so upgrades are simple and low-cost, again requiring no downtime. There’s an increasing view that intelligent analysis of
looking to initiate an IoT strategy, connectivity is a must.
data will be central to companies’ future success. This is
And it’s here that Software as a Service (SaaS) comes in.
particularly true for companies facing a fight for survival,
Put simply, SaaS is software which you can access via
not only against their competitors, but also sometimes
a web browser or app, as opposed to buying it upfront
internally, against plants and sites based in other
to install on your computer or machine. Think Google,
countries which enjoy lower cost bases.
Facebook, YouTube - you haven’t installed them, you simply use them as a service.
SaaS solutions such as Wonderware Online InSight deliver powerful data intelligence when it’s needed
Do you use Office365 in more than one location
and where it’s needed, supported by the highly secure
across your business? If so, you’re already embracing
Microsoft Windows Azure Cloud Services environment.
SaaS. And if you trust the cloud with your accounting
As a SaaS solution, Wonderware Online InSight allows
and confidential business data, why not trust it with your
you to use the software without being responsible for its
production data?
implementation, maintenance or upkeep.
It’s not about operating your real-time drinks
Security is likely to remain one of the key concerns
production in the cloud. But SaaS can correlate all the
raised by companies when talking about the cloud.
other business data you collect, across multiple sites,
However, many drinks companies are already using cloud
before collating and presenting it in a way that doesn’t
services in their corporate and commercial processes,
require additional IT expertise or capital expenditure.
whether that be email, accounting or even online services
For drinks producers, using cloud-based services
such as DropBox. With that in mind, there’s no reason why
to remotely analyse energy consumption data and
non-critical manufacturing processes shouldn’t be moved
production data can provide valuable insight to help drive
there too. u
16
April 2019
Brewers Journal
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a
brewery
Take pride in your packaged beer
So you run a brewery but need help on the diverse packaging aspect of your business. There are a wealth of issues to consider and a number of potential hurdles you must avoid, explains Tracy Sambrook, managing director of SEB Brewing Services.
shelf life as well. There are a number of questions we’re frequently asked, though. So it’s important to know where you stand How long does the process take? As a packager founded by established brewers, we understand quality beer and that it needs care. The beer spends 7-10 days with us, first a prescribed length of time cold-conditioning What actually happens to the beer when it’s packaged? For a new brewer, they will be on a learning
by TRACY SAMBROOK
curve and have focused on the brewing process rather than small-pack. We recommend a potential new
W
customer visits our SALSA accredited site to see for
we support customers in making sure their canned,
valuable when a new brewer is considering retail routes to
bottled and kegged beer is at its very best for filling and
market, such as supermarket chains.
e work with a fantastic mix of
themselves how it works and what the options are from
customers, from brand new
filtration and bottle conditioning to packing formats. It can
brewers to established regional
be reassuring to know the beer is in safe hands and meet
ones, there’s one thing a brewer
the team looking after their beer.
can’t avoid and that’s thinking
about the quality of their beer when it leaves the brewery. As a craft beer packager with a commitment to quality,
stays that way for as long as possible, and has a great
18
April 2019
Are you accredited and why does that matter? We are SALSA accredited and have been since inception in 2013. We are proud at SEB of that accreditation and know it is
How do we get the beer to you for small-packaging?
Brewers Journal
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brewery
co m m e nt
We use a simple but effective method of disposable
and laws around disclosure so we recommend allowing
sterile liners in 10HL Arlington containers, which we can
6-8 weeks minimum for the first time.
arrange for you as part of our end-to-end small pack
As a new brewer you won’t want to let your newly
service. We can guide you, with videos, on how best to
established routes to market down and although storage
move the beer from fermentation vessel to the Arlington
will be a challenge for you, no doubt, building buffer time
sterile liner and minimise DO2 pick up so it arrives with
into the supply chain is essential, for what ever issue
us in the best condition possible. We’ve got 6 years
might arise.
experience of best practice now and we’re keen to share
Considering pricing over quality. The cheapest options often cost more in the long term (stock written off;
it! How do labels work and does SEB source them for us? Our customers prefer to own the label-sourcing process however we can make introductions to those we work
complaints; loss of routes to market) so balance quality and price. Other potential pitfalls would be leaving too much
with and who understand SEB’s labeller set up, for cans
sediment and yeast in the beer before shipping to
as well as bottles.
SEB. We can provide guidance and advise on the best methods. It if arrives at our facility in the best possible
The potential pitfalls and the positives
state, we can do the best possible packaging service for you. Packaging is really a partnership after all.
T
Positives are huge – getting a quality packaged
he design and production of labels often takes
product into market and knowing it has good shelf life will
longer than brewers realise and can slow the
generate both pride from a brewing perspective as well
packaging process down to get the right quality
as strong commercial trust in the product, all resulting in
labels, with the right set up and meeting the regulations
brewersjournal.info
happy retailers and consumers! u
April 2019
19
Co m m e nt
dear
john
A Day in the Life - or more like a few months Retirement offers up a change of pace away from the full-time commitments of a head brewer. There are, of course, pros and cons to such a move. For John Keeling, it has been a case of making new priorities and catching up on lost time.
quick succession. I was discussing all things beer with many people but always with my Fuller’s hat on. Indeed, it still felt that I was still at work. Gradually I started to think about things in a different way not just about how a Fuller’s head brewer should think about things. I then truly began to think of myself as ex-Fuller’s. It did help that I had chatted to Roger Protz and Pete Brown about the future of cask beer. Indeed, I did an article in this very magazine.
by John Keeling
I then went to see a group of people in Leeds organised by my good friend Ian Garrett. I found myself
W
thinking more and more about this and wrote a discussion
hen I retired, I wondered what it
article for CAMRA and was asked by another friend Peter
would be like. Not to have to get up
Alexander, aka Tandleman, to sit on the panel at the
and go to work but to be able to do
Manchester Beer Festival to discuss the future of cask
what you want and when you want
beer.
to do it. I wondered what I would
I have been thinking about the question of fairness
miss the most, because I already knew what I was glad
in duty. People have argued that to treat cask beer
to be rid of. That list included any form of management
differently to other beers is wrong and unfair to those
training, doing appraisals and being appraised. Lord
beers. I would argue that duty is not applied fairly now
protect us all from management gurus and the latest
and no matter how the government view duty, fairness is
thinking on how to manage people efficiently.
not high on the agenda.
I quickly realised it was the people that I missed most
Take the basic fact about duty that it increases as the
and that daily interaction. I decided to counter this by
alcohol content increases. Why should a strong beer pay
going out for a pub lunch as often as possible and anyone
more duty? It already has higher costs because it uses
who follows me on Twitter must know that already.
more malt. Cider is not taxed this way. It is banded. In
For the first few months I threw myself into the work
fact, you can date this back several centuries when the
I had left over from being employed at Fuller’s. This
government wanted grain to be grown for bread not beer.
involved travelling to Milan, Prague and Barcelona in
Cask beer is already taxed differently because of the
20
April 2019
Brewers Journal
dear
john
co m m e nt
sediment allowance so why can’t we take advantage of
finishing it in Blumeneau the sight of the Brazilian Beer
this? In fact, why can’t we argue that bottle conditioned
competition. I have been a judge here tasting 45 beers
beers should have a sediment allowance too.
per day. Judging is always fun, and I never had the time
Small Brewers duty relief is not exactly a fair tax. Not
whilst at Fuller’s to accept these invites. Also here are two
that I think it should change. In fact, it is a good model for
other Englishmen here, Bill Simmons who I worked with
the argument for cask beer duty relief.
for many years at Fuller’s and Mark Dorber, who many will
Many people have asked me what the biggest influence on my career has been. I always answer Her
know and most certainly will remember him from his days at the White Horse in Parsons Green, London.
Majesty’s Government. The way they have changed duty
One of the great things about judging is, of course,
rates, the way they calculate duty and decide how many
meeting new friends and visiting new places. It is always
pubs a brewery can own. This always have had greater
gratifying for people to express their admiration of Fuller’s
affect of my career than anything else.
beer and to that end our importer, Boxer, have been
Gradually the old Fuller’s commitments died away and
very good at spreading the message in Brazil. One of the
left me some free time. I was still in contact with many of
things I can’t do anymore is offer to give my new friends
my old Fuller’s friends but now it was different, I no longer
a tour of Fuller’s when they visit London, so I hope they
had the “up-to-date “information, so I began to have
don’t mind being overrun by Brazilian brewers in the not
different and more impartial views on Fuller’s and beer-
too distant future.
related topics. I also realised that I could do things in beer that
Here is hoping that I get many more invites to future beer festivals and that Tim, your esteemed editor will
was impossible when I was at the brewery. They were
foot the bill. At this moment as Tim reads this copy, he is
impossible because I simply did not have the time. For
having a heart attack.
example, I started writing this in Sao Paulo and I am
brewersjournal.info
Goodbye from Brazil. u
April 2019
21
M e e t
th e
b r e w e r
B ohem
B rewery
Leading a Lager Revolution in London In an age of countless one-offs and seasonal beers, the team at London’s Bohem Brewery have nailed their colours to the mast of perfecting a core range in the challenging lager market. And by offering an authentic taste of the Czech Republic, they’re winning over drinkers left, right and centre.
respects on both a human and professional level. Weeks before said appointment was announced however, Ryman was busy swapping the South West coast for a sojourn to England’s capital for a brewday with the team at Bohem. There’s perhaps some circle of life irony to unravel there, or maybe not. But what is certain is the lager brewed on that day is likely to be very good, very good indeed. Ryman (far right) teamed up with Petr Skocek (centre),
by tim sheahan
A
Bohem’s co-founder and head brewer as well as Bohem brewer Matej Krizek (left) to produce Otakar Brut Lager. St Austell’s brewing director transported the yeast
lot can happen in seven months.
used to brew the Cornwall brewery’s Korev lager to
On a blistering afternoon at the end of
London. The recipe, originally developed for a one-off
June last year, the team at Bohem Brewery
beer called Korev Brut, was given a new twist by being
were in the company of 40 or so other
brewed by Ryman and Skocek on Bohem’s decoction
outfits pouring their beer at the London
brewing kit.
Brewers’ Alliance festival. An event held in the venerable
The result is a 6.4% ABV beer named for the several
surroundings of the Fuller’s Griffin Brewery in Chiswick,
King Otakars who ruled Bohemia, which today sits within
West London.
the Czech Republic.
The festival, spearheaded by Fuller’s ambassador and
Lagered at a low temperature for six weeks, Otakar
former head brewer John Keeling, its then head brewer
Brut Lager was brewed with Pilsner, Cara Gold, Acid Malt
Georgina Young, and members of the London Brewers
and maize, along with Magnum, Hersbrucker and Saaz
Alliance, was a resounding success.
hops, as well as Nelson Sauvin in the dry hop.
The sun was shining, excellent beer was pouring, and everyone was having a jolly good time.
Described as having a fresh, vibrant aroma, and initial light citrus tones of lemon and grapefruit, Otakar has low hop bitterness, which combined with the soft carbonation
But things change
delivers an easy drinking beer that belies its strength. It was also the first time Ryman had made a decoction mash.
T
he impending completion of Fuller’s sale to
Such collaborations, and there’s more to come, are
Japanese brewing giant Asahi surely puts this
effective indicators of how far the brewery, completed by
year’s event in doubt.
co-founder Zdenek Kudr and chief tapster Marek Průša,
The aforementioned Young, in the role of head brewer
at Fuller’s since 2017, has departed to pastures both new and old. Returning to the area she grew up to take up the
have come since the early brews of Victoria, their 4.2% Session Pils, back in May 2015. Kudr previously drove trucks across Europe before
position of head brewer at Bath Ales, a business acquired
moving to London in 2010, where he started his own
by St Austell back in 2016.
lettings business for Czechs and Slovaks arriving in the
Heading up Bath Ales’ Hare Brewery, she reports to Roger Ryman, the group’s brewing director and a figure understandably delighted to be working with a brewer he
22
April 2019
capital. Skocek, originally from Pilsen, had made London his home five years prior to Kudr’s arrival. While, he admits,
Brewers Journal
the USA was his planned destination, the opportunity of work proved too much and here we are, 14 years on.
Returning the empty keg, Kudr would regale the beer’s virtues to Skocek, encouraging him to take his beer-
But there was one part of London life Skocek couldn’t
making prowess to the next level. But for the brewer, he
get on board with and that was the lofty price of a pint in
wasn’t sure where to turn in order to move from a labour
the capital. So naturally, he turned to home brewing.
of love that enveloped every Saturday, to something
“I knew Petr from games of football we played in Finsbury Park. He’d often bring bottles of beer for people to try, which was very welcome,” explains Kudr. Kudr would soon find himself in need of beer, a lot of
more viable. “The paperwork, premises, resources, finances, the lot,” recalls Kudr. “It was clear he had given it some thought before, but these were all hurdles in the way.
it. He’d be hosting a party and as was customary at such
“However, we worked things out. I felt I could help, and
gatherings, he needed a keg to keep the thirsty guests
we shook hands there and then. Bohem Brewery would
watered. Conveniently for Kudr, Skocek had recently
be established in 2015.”
brewed a Belgian-style beer with orange peel for the
A modest premises in North London, towards the outer
Christmas that has just passed. However the 8% number
reaches of the capital’s Piccadilly Line, was secured and
ended up not being ready in time for the celebrations.
with it, an equally unassuming one barrel kit and 200 litre
“I bought it off him for £120 and the whole keg, all 50 litres of it, went in about three hours that night. The Czechs, the Slovaks drank every last drop!” he laughs.
brewersjournal.info
kettle. Beer produced on that kit include Victoria, a 4.2% Session Pils with a sweet butterscotch and floral
April 2019
23
“ M e e t
th e
b r e w e r
B ohem
B rewery
We want to perfect our core range of beers because that's what our reputation relies on Matěj Křížek, Bohem Brewery
aroma. The flavour has a little grapefruit and a touch of sweetness, as well as notes of fresh baked bread, and a building bitterness on the dry, subtly spicy finish. Amos, its 4.9% Czech Pilsner has subtle lemon and
lagers, and so wanted to specialize in that area. “I was looking for something that I could do for the rest of my life. I went to a small event where lots of different schools would attend and I saw some demonstration of fermentation,” he recalls. “And there and then my father told me that’s what I was going to do. Why? Because people are going to drink beer for the rest of time. They’re never going to stop, so I’d always have a job!” Moving to London to be with his girlfriend studying in the captial, Křížek emailed many of London’s breweries but with no luck. “I had zero responses but thankfully got wind of two Czechs running a brewery in London. I got in touch, they replied within minutes and two weeks later I was here,” he laughs. Křížek says the most automated kit he encountered at the Břevnov Monastery Brewery was the keg washer, so to be part of a growing, evolving outfit at Bohem offers up
honey in the flavour, balanced by a dry bitterness
a whole new, exciting experience. But he’s in no rush to
and a spicy burst that lingers in the aftertaste, while
push things too fast, either.
Amber Lager Sparta has bitterness and hop spice
“We are just doing our best and we don't want to rush
complementing the honey and Dundee orange
things so we opt for quality over quantity,” he says. “As a
marmalade notes. The aftertaste has orange peel, toffee
result, we’re maybe not as visible as we'd like but we have
and a building dry spiciness.
to do what’s right for us."
Though amber beers have fallen out of fashion in the
Křížek adds: We want to perfect our core range of
UK market, Sparta had the opposite effect for Bohem. The
beers because that's what our reputation relies on. They
beer resonated so much with one local drinker, known
are always improving because you have to be honest,
for his love of variety, that he stuck on the lager for a
there is no such thing as a perfect beer. You can always
whole evening during a session at nearby pub, The Prince
improve somehow, no matter how minor the detail.”
N22. Not only that, he and another friend sought out the brewery to offer investment. Such an approach was well-timed, enabling the team to move to a significantly larger facility in Tottenham in
Skocek, Kdur and Křížek are passionate about making the best beer they can, trying to reverse the reputation lager has long held in many circles. “All lager, regardless of quality, is too easily associated
early 2018. Beers made here, much like those produced
with the cheap and fizzy liquid produced by major
at the existing site, help serve a range of customers
brewers and dismissed by CAMRA. The media still uses
including the company’s taproom near Bounds Green,
the term ‘lager louts’ to describe any alcohol-related
North London.
disorder,” explains Kdur. “However, in the Czech Republic,
Its Tottenham brewery comprises 215 square metres,
lager is rightly celebrated for quality. We believe that the
with a brewing capacity of 6000hl a year and, currently,
same quality standards should be applied in the UK, and
a lagering capacity of 2400hl a year. Bohem produces
is making its quality pledge through the Bohem Lager
its beers through decoction brewing, the traditional
Manifesto.”
European brewing style which sees part of the mash
He says: “It is not helpful for consumers that the
boiled, and returned to the main mash to raise the
term ‘lager’ is applied to such a wide range of products
temperature. The process adds the depth, complexity
of differing quality. In the absence of EU appellation
and flavour which characterises authentic Czech lagers.
regulation being applied to the traditional lagering
2018’s expansion at Bohem not only enabled the
method for beer, as it is to Champagne and other food
brewery to grow but also its team, too. Matěj Křížek,
and drink, we are making the quality pledge for our own
awash with experience from Břevnov Monastery Brewery,
products and production.”
one of the oldest micro‘s in the Czech Republic, joined Bohem that March. At High School, he gained his Maturita certificate,
And in accordance with their own personal manifesto, Kdur says the brewery can guarantee the following: There are no additives, including no added sugar, there is no
similar to A-Levels, in Food Technology, specializing in
forced carbonation, its brewing equipment is a bespoke
brewing beer. Upon joining Břevnov, Matěj brewed many
design for brewing lager, manufactured in the Czech
different styles but found he was particularly excited by
Republic, its lager is unfiltered and unpasteurised, only
24
April 2019
Brewers Journal
M e e t
th e
b r e w e r
B ohem
specialist malts designed for brewing lager are used, its lager is always bottom-fermented using specialist lager yeast, no high-gravity concentrate is used, beer is lagered in a precise temperature-controlled fermenter and finally, all its beers are lagered for a minimum of five weeks. This passion also extends to the way their beer is served. Marek Průša, the brewery’s chief tapster, is a Certified Pilsner Urquell Tapster and has more than 20 years experience in the Czech Republic, and latterly at Galvin Hop in Spitalfields. He is responsible for the expertly-poured beers found at the brewery’s North London taproom. For Zdur, the taproom is an essential part of the Bohem jigsaw and something he’d like to see grow, too. “Successful breweries tend to have their own retail source, which helps make a significant contribution to cash flow. It is so important,” he explains. “I’d like us to open more bars, giving us the opportunity to showcase our beers while offering guest taps to the many other breweries across London. We promote their beers, they promote ours, and everyone wins.” Zdur is particularly keen to push this aspect of the business in what he sees as an increasingly competitive market and one in which Bohem needs to stand its ground in. “Too many people are competing on price, and that’s not something we wanted to be involved in. Instead
B rewery
“
I’m not interested in one-offs. I’m more concerned with cementing what we do and giving people confidence in what they buy from us Zdenek Kudr, Bohem Brewery
means the complete opposite.” He adds: “We are not focused on producing many
one-off beers. That works for some, but not us. I’m more concerned with cementing what we do and giving people confidence in what they buy from us. “I think that the craft beer revolution in the UK is almost
dead. It's not going to move anywhere else because realistically, everything has already been done. So now is the time for a really good quality, consistent, core range of beers.
“There are many breweries in the UK but within the
we remain focused on quality and creating a premium
next 10 years I see 30% of those going bust because
product,” he says. “Sure, you would never call it a premium
they’ve not prioritised correctly. People want reliability
product because that term is meaningless today. If
and they want consistency, and that’s what we’re trying to
something says it's ‘Premium' on the package it normally
do.” u
26
April 2019
Brewers Journal
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no
alcohol
s t y le
Keeping it Dry It’s called non-alcohol beer, no-alcohol beer, non-alcoholic beer, very-low alcohol beer, NA, or malt beverage. It’s also been called a lot worse. However, thanks to a growing demand, both big and small brewers are putting out something you just might find yourself enjoying. Velo Mitrovich reports.
Brooklyn Brewery recently made its foray into the sector
volunteer peacetime army could work without a draft, so they took anyone and I do mean anyone. One day in the middle of July, the powers that be decided they needed to throw a party to boost morale. “269 Aviation Battalion will celebrate this Friday from 1200 to 1600 hours. You will be there and you will have fun.” While North Carolina is full of lakes, ponds, and natural
by velo mitrovich
A
beauty, they gathered all 200 plus of us in what looked like a giant dirt parking lot in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by scrub pines that were maybe about a
bout a million years ago in the mid 1970s I
meter high. There was absolutely nothing to do there
was in the US Army stationed at Ft Bragg,
except for one thing.
North Carolina. It was not a good time
The barbeque that was provided – you had to pay for.
to be in the army. The government was
Soft drinks, you had to pay for. But the beer – all 20 zillion
desperately trying to show that the all-
cans – was free.
brewersjournal.info
April 2019
29
s t y le
no
alcohol
Infinite Session go from strength-to-strength
duty were busy putting in stitches and bandaging noses. Because a couple of drunks decided it would be fun to push over the port-a-loos with someone inside, the porta-
Some supply sergeant must have figured: Mmm,
crappers were smashed and unusable. A few soldiers
hot as hell day and no shade. “Sir, each soldier must be
couldn’t be bothered to walk over to the scrub pines and
provided with at least 12 cans of beer for pure survival
pissed where they stood like mules.
reasons alone. Anything less and we could have a medical emergency on our hands.” Because this was survival we’re talking about, they opted to have about a dozen open trailers placed strategically around the area, filled with ice and beer so
At one point, I watched a staff sergeant pass out drunk, face down into a beer trailer. If his friends hadn’t pulled him out, he would have drowned, or had his face frozen, or both. Promptly at 1600, those still standing got into their cars
no soldier was ever far from a cold one and there would
and drove off like it was the start of the Indy 500 except
be no lines.
on a dirt track.
Sounds great? No, these guys were all idiots at the best of times. You did not want to get them drunk. I don’t recall why, I suspect it was because Old
Looking at these drunk dunderheads behind their wheels, I decided to be in no hurry to leave. I looked over the field that looked like it was out of a war zone –
Milwaukee was the beer they choose, but I choose not to
in hindsight, it just needed the end music from Platoon
drink. So there I was, the only one completely thirsty and
playing.
sober person in a field of over 200 drunks. Within an hour, the command had given up the idea of
The field was littered with hundreds of beer cans, overturned trailers, vomit, the smashed-up port-a-loos,
being in command, figuring the beer would ultimately run
and someone’s boots – how could you not notice your
out and order and discipline restored.
feet were suddenly bare?
It doesn’t require a vivid imagination to picture what was soon happening in the field. There were arguments, fights, smack-downs, and more fights. The two medics on
30
April 2019
I shook my head and went dry for 10-years. During this dry decade, I tried to find alternatives. There was near-beer, which was started in the US during
Brewers Journal
no
Prohibition. It was horrible – and I’ll just leave it at that. After a long, long search I found a couple of German alcohol-free beers but these were so malty, they tasted like something you’d give your kids if they had whooping cough. Ten years later, I was living in Seattle, in the Coast
alcohol
s t y le
While my generation in the States sees shame in drinking alcohol free and it would be something you’d try to hide; for the Millennials, not at all. As far as tasting good, at the CBR show, there were numerous offerings of non-alcohol beer, with some brewers such as BrewDog and Brooklyn Brewery offering
Guard now, and was with some friends at a pub in Pioneer
it alongside their regular. Mitch Adams of Euroboozer
Square. While they were drinking their pitchers of Bud, I
plied me with bottles of German non-alcohol beers that
was getting ready to order a black coffee. The bartender
they import along with regular European beers. Online
though had other ideas for me.
beer shops such as Beerwulf and Dry Drinker have a huge
“You should try a Ballard Bitter.” “What’s that?” “It’s better than what they’re drinking,” she said,
assortment to try. Thrown into this mixture of no-shame and tasting good is the report last August in which The Lancet said no level
pointing with her chin over at my mates. “It’s an IPA from
of alcohol consumption improves health, and the massive
this small brewery – Redhook – that’s just opened up the
marketing campaign that Heineken is doing on both sides
road. You’ll really like it, trust me.”
of the pond with its Heineken 0.0 lager in the familiar
IPA? Small brewery? I had no idea what she was talking about, though I was 100 percent sure whatever it was, it had alcohol in it. But then, she did have an English accent so a course I completely trusted her. I took one sip and shouted out the F-word, so loudly, it’s still probably floating over Seattle. Ballard Bitter was everything that I had ever wanted in a beer, like I had spent my entire life waiting for that rush of hop flavours. With that, my quest to find a non-alcohol beer that tasted like beer ended – until now. It seems like about every decade or so for the last 40 years, the beer industry has rolled a non-alcohol beer and said this is the future, but if you watch the Simpson’s, you know how this always plays out. When Duff’s Brewery goes alcohol free – due to
green bottle. Suddenly an ice-cold non-alcohol beer starts sounding good. Taking Europe as a whole, around 10 percent of all beer sales were non-alcohol last year. All are expecting this figure to jump for at least the next five to six years. How big of jump, that’s the question. Some market research groups are claiming that worldwide it will double in growth, being worth a staggering £20 billion by 2024. But, knowing how many of these research groups operate, I find it even more staggering that people believe them. The UK papers have reported that last year our supermarkets saw a jump of 27 percent in the sales and/ or consumption of non-alcohol beer. A magazine article
Springfield’s local prohibition – the owner comes out
said that in the UK, the sale last year off non-alcohol beer
and says he knows Duff’s fans drink the beer for it’s great
rose 60 percent.
taste, not for its alcohol content. And then three hours later, he’s locking the gates of the shut-down plant.
While that sounds like every shopping trolley no longer has room for food – just non-alcohol beer –
Why will this time be any different for alcohol-free?
without knowing the actual figures behind the 60 percent,
In asking random people at this year’s Craft Beer Rising
that could be six bottles or six million. Percentages are
Festival at Truman’s and at the Pure Gym I go to, it seems
too easy to exaggerate and blow out of proportion as we
very much like you can draw a line.
know from the weekly health scare in any newspaper. You
For those over 30, alcohol is part of the beer drinking experience, with numerous people – both male and female – telling me it was at least 50 percent of the reason why they drank beer. Those younger, however, said they were open to the
sold one can last year and five this year, way-hey, you just had an increase of 500 percent in sales. But, what we can agree on, however, in talking with brewers and distributors, sales are rising and as I mentioned, the stigma that used to go with drinking non-
idea of non-alcohol beer – if it tasted good – and could
alcohol beer is disappearing, especially with Millennials
see sometimes when it would be preferable.
here in the UK.
When pressed, the reasons given were: It’s in the
Dry opportunities
middle of the week; or you’ve already had one regular beer so now you switch over to alcohol free; or you want to look like you’re drinking; or you’re in a situation where you need to keep your wits about you, i.e., meeting the future in-laws; or you feel better not drinking; or it seems healthier; or you don’t feel like drinking but still want a beer.
brewersjournal.info
I
n a December Brewbound podcast, Brooklyn Brewery CEO Eric Ottaway said that breweries needed to quit thinking of themselves as only makers of beer, but to
look at other potential revenue streams, which includes
April 2019
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“ s t y le
no
alcohol
drinkers who love beer…but sometimes just don’t want the alcohol. We are going to change the game, it’s like nothing else in the market.”
NA controversy
N
on-alcohol beer first made an appearance in the
The elephant in the room for us involved in the beer industry is alcohol Velo Mitrovich
non-alcohol beer.
He said that Brooklyn’s entry into non-alcohol beer is a
way to diversify Brooklyn’s products offerings and build a buffer against beer’s overall slowing sales in the US. Brooklyn spent a year developing its non-alcohol
Special Effects lager that is now available in Sweden and which they had at the Brick Lane show. When will it be available Stateside, Eric wouldn’t say, but did say said
US in 1919. Why, you ask? That’s when Prohibition became law. It was decided that the strongest a
beverage could be and considered non-alcohol was 0.5 percent ABV and that’s where that magic number comes from – at least in most of the world but not here. At present, to be “Alcohol-Free” in the UK, a beer brewed here has to be 0.05% ABV or below, while products at 0.5% have to be called “De-Alcoholised”, although some non-alcohol beers don’t have to have alcohol removed to be at 0.5 percent. But, products from the EU and elsewhere, distributed in the UK can be 0.5% and still labelled “alcohol free.” Confusing? Oh yeah. Why doesn’t the government then put the marker at 0.5 percent and call it a day? Because, not all want this. Steve Magnall, chief executive at St Peter’s Brewery, a
that the US has had it backwards when it comes to non-
producer of a range of 0.05% alcohol beers, says: “We’ve
alcoholic beer.
put time, effort and money into producing a zero-alcohol
“If you were drinking a non-alcohol beer, there was
range of beers, so why should a 0.5% beer be branded as
something wrong with you. It was kept in the back of the
zero alcohol when it isn’t. Someone wishing not to drink
bar fridge and carefully poured into a glass and given
alcohol doesn’t want a 0.5% ABV beer, that would be like
to you so nobody would see that you're drinking non-
feeding a vegetarian a tiny bit of thinly cut ham.”
alcoholic beer,” he said. “It was kind of an embarrassing
A course, if someone comes out with a 0.04 percent or
thing. Whereas you go in Europe and it's celebrated. It's
lower beer, they’ll be making the same argument against
treated as the opposite in most countries. People would
St Peter’s Brewery.
never sneer at you or look down at you like you have a problem.” Ilaria Lodigiani, head of global marketing innovation,
In Germany, where 0.5 percent is treated as the gold standard of alcohol free, there have been numerous tests regarding 0.5 percent and complete alcohol free. Their
Heineken brand, characterises this as moving away
researchers didn’t see any difference in the effect it has on
from a focus on "can’ts" – such as pregnant women and
people.
designated drivers – to "don’t want tos", who "like the taste
Making it dry
of beer but just don’t want to drink alcohol at a particular moment." Lodigiani agrees that alcohol free beer is seen as something that’s “not cool", but believes the brand equity of Heineken can play a big part in transforming perceptions. The business is putting its money where
M
ost of the time it starts off like a regular beer, from making a mash to the fermenting stage. But, while regular beer will now be bottle,
its mouth is: it has committed to spend 25 percent of
canned or further aged, non-alcohol beer has to have its
Heineken’s marketing budget on its non-alcohol in every
alcohol removed.
market
If you remember your school chemistry, alcohol has a
She thinks the potential for the product is broad. "It’s
much lower freezing temperature than water – thus the
a zero-alcohol beer, but also very low in calories, low in
reason for that bottle of vodka in the freezer – and it has a
sugar. The consumer mind-set is changing quite a bit –
much lower boiling point than water – around 78 degrees
they’re looking for 100 percent natural products, but with
C. You can in effect, boil off the alcohol before the water
less sugar, less alcohol."
starts boiling.
CMO Jonnie Cahill of Heineken says: “It’s for beer
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April 2019
This additional cooking, however, gives alcohol
Brewers Journal
no
alcohol
s t y le
free beer the taste we all can’t stand and it’s why most have been in the past heavy on the malt flavour. Hop flavours, forget it, they’re not going to happen with all that additional heat and cooking time. The problem with boiling beer is that it doesn’t just remove the alcohol, it also destroys other flavour compounds that give beer its fullness and character. According to Brew Your Own, "The hop aromas will usually be driven off within the first five minutes, while the hop flavours will be gone within the first 15 minutes." Which is why finding a decent alcohol-free IPA can be a challenge. One thing most people notice with non-alcohol beer is that quite a few have a metallic taste that ranges from being very slight to quite pronounced. Regular beer can have the same problem but we don’t notice it due to the hop flavours. When brewers inject CO2 in alcohol-free beer, besides tiny bubbles in your drink, it also adds carbonic acid, which can give off a metallic or sour favour – which could be one reason why non-alcohol seems to work extremely well with sours. Some brewers boil under vacuum pressure to reduce the boiling point thereby mitigating damage to flavour. A course, you need the additional equipment to do it. That said, two American craft brewers, Jeff Stevens of WellBeing Brewing and Philip Brandes of Bravus Brewing, have taken on the challenge of creating craft
Dry Drinker founder: Steve Elkington
non-alcoholic beer by using the vacuum boil method. Depending on the power of the vacuum, the alcohol’s boiling point can be lowered to around 40 degrees C. A couple of friends and I tried WellBeing’s Heavenly
really add any flavour, alcohol adds to what is called the mouthfeel of the beer. It gives it that dryness, and
Body Golden Wheat and Hellraiser Dark Amber. We all
according to some, it can accentuate some of the sweet
agreed if we were offered a Diet Coke or either of these
flavours in the malt. If you don’t believe me about the lack
two, we’d take the non-alcohol beers in a heartbeat. If
of flavour, next time you’re in the USA’s Deep South, try
we were offered the real thing or these two, that’s where
having a swig from a bottle of Everclear which you can
opinions differed.
sometimes find being sold at 190 proof.
Another dealcoholizing technique that's sometimes
After sampling some of the non-alcohol choices at
employed is reverse-osmosis. As Chow.com explains it,
CBR, I wanted to see what else was out there. In the UK,
"...beer is passed through a filter with pores so small that
online seller Dry Drinker in Staines has Britain’s largest
only alcohol and water (and a few volatile acids) can pass
assortment of non-alcohol beers – 103 at last count –
through. The alcohol is distilled out of the alcohol-water
along with wines and spirits, so I went out there to meet
mix using conventional distillation methods, and the
with founder Stuart Elkington and to do a bit of sampling.
water and remaining acids are added back into the syrupy
A bet
mixture of sugars and flavour compounds left on the other side of the filter. Bingo—a non-alcoholic brew." Because the main ingredients aren't heated, this technique causes less flavour degradation, so it gives generally preferable results, though it's more labour intensive and requires even more equipment. Regular beer drinkers will tell you that no matter what
W
hile in the USA what seems to drive craft brewers into non-alcohol is an alcoholrelated problem, joining a dry-religion such
as the Mormons, or other guilt, in the UK we don’t carry all
brewers do, non-alcohol beers won’t taste completely the
those same issues and Elkington is an example of this. He
same because there’s no alcohol.
went dry to win a bet with his wife.
And they’re actually sort of right. While alcohol doesn’t
brewersjournal.info
They were trying IVF treatment for a baby and the
April 2019
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s t y le
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doctor told Stuart that he should cut back on his drinking. His wife said he couldn’t make it six months and the bet was on. During this period, Elkington says that he found he was
Listen to the full story on the Brewers Journal Podcast
feeling and sleeping better so he decided to continue staying dry. However, he still wanted a beer. Elkington says that he searched locally but couldn’t find anything. Complaining to his wife about it – and how this lack also
Find it on Apple Podcasts, Google, Spotify, Stitcher or wherever your get your podcasts
seemed like there could be a business opportunity – she told him to either put-up or shut-up. Dry Drinker was born.
Go to: brewerspodcast.reby.media
“People ask me if I’ve stopped drinking? ‘No’, I tell them, I just drink dry,” says Elkington. “While for many people this is a negative thing, for me I see the positives. “With Dry Drinker, we’re not a preachy brand; we’re
definitely there – but it’s something we never discuss at
here when you want to drink; we’re here when you don’t.”
beer conferences, trade shows, in bars or in tap rooms.
In the three years that Dry Drinker has been up
Which in a way seems a bit screwy on our part if for
and running, he says that he’s seen a big change in
many people, one of the main reasons why they have
the market, with more people drinking alcohol-free
a cold one is to enjoy a bit of buzz, enjoyment, and
beverages. But, it’s not always an easy slog to try to
temporary mental escape from what life throws at us.
convince people to try it. “There is a pre-conceived notion here that it won’t taste good,” he says. “But for European drinkers, it’s not that big of deal with European breweries presenting non-alcohol
Why do we pretend otherwise? It’s why people have been drinking for thousands and thousands of years, so why should we feel embarrassed to discuss it? If we acknowledge that alcohol is an important part
beer as just part of their range and not plastering non-
of our industry, then we should acknowledge, too, that
alcohol all over the label.”
sometimes we should be offering an alternative. Guinness
In sampling non-alcohol beers, some styles do work
has its H2O Guinness Clear - also known as tap water – in
better than others, a fact that Elkington is quick to point
their campaign to drink moderately. Breweries across the
out.
world are offering up non-alcohol beers by the hundreds.
“Sours work well, they’re a good fit in the range like
Should this alternative be, however, something coming
BrewDog’s Raspberry Blitz. IPAs can be found that are
from your brewery? For those of you who are small, no. It
full of flavours and hops,” he says. “If you start with good
takes time and money to do it right and you have bigger
ingredients, you get a good beer.”
things to worry about. For you medium to large brewers,
Lagers don’t work as well, but that said, Germany, Latvia, and surprisingly Russia, all make a decent lager. Elkington says that he is lucky right now with
let me pass on this bit of advice from the US Western days. The pioneer gets the arrow, the settler gets the land. If this time around, alcohol free will be here to stay,
Heineken’s big push for their alcohol-free beer. “When
which I suspect it will be, I don’t see much advantage
the bigger brands come into the market, it reassures the
in being the first out the gate. Let the big boys like
consumers that it must be a good thing because they’re
Heinekens use their massive marketing budget to create
doing it.”
the demand and then follow behind.
I asked Elkington with something like Brewdog’s sour, is it his job or Brewdog’s to market it? “Looking at Brewdog’s latest accounts, they have just a bit more money than me,” he says laughing. “Any brand we’ll work with. I tell them that I want to be
When visiting Stuart at Dry Drinker I enjoyed the Braxzz Porter. I’m not going to lie and tell you it was the finest porter I’ve ever had, but it was far from the worse, I’d place it right in the middle. But, what in a way made it the best was, I had
their biggest supplier and distributor, but they need to
the enjoyment of the drink, without the sluggish feel
do their job as well,” he says. “With the small UK brewers
afterwards. And, without giving alcohol blood levels a
who are doing alcohol free, they know us and we work
single thought, I got into my car and drove off, knowing
together.”
I wasn’t a danger to anyone on the road – except for my
The elephant in the room for all of us who are involved in the beer industry is alcohol. It’s there – it’s most
34
April 2019
usual crappy driving. I’d say that was a pretty great alternative. u
Brewers Journal
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Keep it chilled “Coldchain” is a phrase increasingly prevalent in the British beer industry but what is it, does it really exist, and is it being used correctly? Yvan Seth from Jolly Good Beer takes a closer look.
temperature”. I tend to regard our target storage temperature as “circa 4°C” and know a few cases where 6°C is used, and know a few breweries using 3°C for coldstorage. As 4°C is common for food storage it is also the temperature which most study and literature will refer to - such as “Freshness” by Dr Charles Bamforth.
by Yvan Seth
In “Freshness” Dr Bamforth refers to the work of Swedish chemist Svante August Arrhenius that relates
C
temperature to chemical reaction speed — and for beer
distributed is kept chilled all of the time including
after just the one month (this is an experiment you can try
transport links. This is what makes it a “chain” - every link is
at home!)
oldchain distribution is nothing new - you
uses a 3x faster reaction time for every 10°C temperature
see refrigerated lorries and vans on UK
increase. If you fit a curve to this trend and interpolate for
roads all the time. It is used for many food
4°C versus 12°C the result is that at 4°C changes ought to
products - often as a serious matter of food
be slowed down by approximately 2.4x - and versus 20°C
health and safety, but also to preserve the
this is 5.8x. In my own testing with 1-month changes in
quality of fresh produce. What it means simply is that the product being
chilled. If you remove the refrigeration from one of those
beers across 4°C, 12°C, and 20°C there was often a notable flavour difference between 4°C and 12°C for pale beers
Of course the changes in a beer are on a continuum
links then you don’t have a chain any more. The important
- unlike the general public view of “best before dates”
thing about the chain is that it should be connected up all
being some sort of quality cliff-edge. The 4°C sample
the way from the producer to the consumer (see boxout).
tasted fresh, and the 12°C notably degraded but quite
Why 4°C? At the most basic level the choice of 4°C
drinkable, at 20°C it had become something I called
comes down to food handling standards. The fact
“onion water” (the beer I have in mind here was a mid 4%
is that there is simply a lot of existing infrastructure
pale dry hopped “session IPA”.) In the associated diagram
and equipment set up for this temperature - “fridge
I have used the Arrhenius equation to show relative shelf
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April 2019
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life at 4°C, 12°C and 20°C. Beer aging is a complex and many faceted chemical, and biochemical, process — the key observation is the exponential nature of the rate of
The Coldchain
chemical change versus temperature. Another way to think of coldstorage is as preventing
Brewery Coldstore @ 4°C
heat exposure. Every bit of additional heat a beer is exposed to will push its chemical reactions a little further along that taste spectrum from “fresh” towards “stale”. By coldstoring beer we reduce this exposure and prolong
⇒
the “fresh” life of the beer.
⇒
In the UK coldchain does not really exist for beer. There
⇒
Transport @ 4°C Distro Warehouse @ 4°C Transport @ 4°C Retailer Coldroom/Fridge @ 4°C Consumer
are a handful of cases where breweries both large and small have chilled vehicles. Stalwarts of British cask ale Timothy Taylor has curtain-sided lorries with chiller units. The complex flavour nuances of traditional cask benefit from coldchain stability, not just the latest NEIPA juice bomb. And when Iron Pier brewery bought a dray van they took the plunge on getting a properly refrigerated vehicle. But these rare cases are an exception to standard UK practice. Things get worse when you look at the wholesale distribution tier of the beer industry in the UK. Most distributors rightly have some cool-storage for cask ale, especially the larger well established ones. However there are many small distribution businesses, and surprisingly some large ones too, that don’t even have this for cask.
Figure 1, Relative freshness of beer
It’s entirely the norm for all keg and smallpack beer to be kept at ambient temperatures. I learnt this after I started my own distribution business.
of promoting this missing link in British beer quality and
I started out by talking to brewers and asked them
ultimately to trying to achieve real coldchain for beer.
how I should do things. Every single one of them said I
The choice was to promote doing it right, or stop doing it
needed to get cold-storage for stock. So back in April
right - because unfortunately the higher cost overheads
2014 that’s what I did - and that’s where Jolly Good Beer
make it a competitive disadvantage if the difference is not
started. It wasn’t until months later I began to discover
understood.
that what I was doing was unusual. This put me on a path
brewersjournal.info
Coldstorage is not coldchain however - it’s just a link
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needed to create the chain. To achieve a chain we all
Bamforth states “Ultimately, substantial responsibility
need to move to refrigeration on the road as well as at
lies with consumers if they are to enjoy a beer with the
brewery, warehouse, and retail.
characteristics that you expect them to appreciate”. The
A serious issue
phrase “vote with your wallet” comes to mind - although how do you do that without re-tailers to buy from who take beer quality seriously? I firmly believe this is a natural result of caring for beer better and businesses that take
T
here’s a combination of lack of knowledge and
quality seriously will benefit. So what can we do to even
inertia. A lot of the problem at the retail and
give consumers access to the better option?
distribution level is simply a case of not knowing
One approach is to encourage better practices and
any better. Historically, UK keg and small-pack beer has
push that message whenever possible — this very article
been predominantly the domain of stabilised products
for example. The use of good marketing, with the right
with simple flavour profiles — pasteurised and sterile
amount of educa-tion. BrewDog have done the UK a
filtered lagers for example. Even these beers are not
fantastic service by educating many bar staff to Certified
immune to the depredations of time and heat, but a lot of
Ciderone® level - arming them with a degree of beer
work has been put into extending their shelf-life. I don’t
quality knowledge practically non-existent at retail level
think I need to convince brewers on the technical issues
before.
of beer stability - but if you’re unsure then look up the
Interestingly this meant enough knowledge to
work of Dr Charles Bamforth, for example in his books
realise that BrewDog’s own bars and process-es were
“Freshness” or “Beer: A Quality Perspective.” These should
not equipped to US quality and coldchain standards.
both be mandatory reading.
It’s a powerful indirect endorsement of everything UK
It’s not the brewers who need convincing - it’s
coldchain advocates been doing, that BrewDog is now
everyone else. A common sort of challenge I hear is
rolling out chilled central warehousing and properly
“everyone else is doing it this way, why should I do it any
chilled direct-draw dispense in bars. Ultimately we’re all
differently”. Which is a sort of defeatism really. “Why try
taking lessons from the top standards of the American
any harder?”
craft beer industry.
If we all took that attitude, where would British beer be now? (See also: food and coffee.) The fundamental problem is that doing beer better costs more money. At retail the start-up costs and running
When you own the whole process from brewery to bar you can properly solve these problems. What about all the independent operators? That’s where the brewers come in and ultimately the
overheads of a warm shelf are a lot less than a fridge.
responsibility for their product rests on the shoulders
In distribution a large shed costs a lot less than a large
of the brewers. It’s massively in their best interests to
coldstore. And if you're already operating with beer at
encourage better standards to ensure their beer reaches
ambient, it is a big jump to upgrade to full coldstorage.
the consumer at its best. The better a beer is the more
Significant inertia exists within the established retail &
consumers will come back to it - and to your brand.
distribution sectors — which is why most of the fully
Ultimately this is a matter of brand protection for the long
chilled operations in the UK are new businesses.
term. It can only take one bad beer to drive a customer
I know many great breweries who really care for the beer they produce and have full cold-storage at the
away from your brand forever - how tragic it is when fantastic beer is brought low by bad keeping.
brewery… when traveling around the country I am often
So what now?
saddened to see their beers sat on a shelf in an 18C room - heated in winter, not cooled in summer. Kegs under a counter or in an ambient back room, often actively being heated by a nearby integral flash cooled. It’s a sorry state of affairs. (There are also very good business reasons to do keg dispense better in terms of yield as well as quality.)
Where does the responsibility lie
R
ight now there’s very little chance you can have your beer distributed via a coldchain. Typically beer is moved around the country by ambient
pallet networks and vans. Breweries need to encourage better practices - and give recognition to businesses that take this duty of care more seriously. They also need to bite the bullet and plan for investing in refrigerated
E
veryone in the chain has a part to play - everyone
vehicles and shipping. Take the case of Gravesend-
needs to really care about getting the product
based Iron Pier brewery - unwilling to compromise, they
to the consumer as good as it can be. This
acquired a refrigerated van.
includes the consumer! In his book “Freshness” Charles
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April 2019
“For us refrigerated delivery was something we knew
Brewers Journal
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we wanted to do from day one, and it will become more
to time and temperature that awareness of the need for
important as we grow and as our delivery area, and
better practices is growing - and I’m talking session IPAs
therefore transit time, grows. We try and control every
and West Coast IPAs, not just NEIPAs. It’s all starting off in
process we can in the brewery to ensure consistency
ones and twos. One of the first fully chilled retailers to be
batch to batch, so I just see controlled temperature in
fully coldstored was The Stoneworks bar in Peterborough
storage and delivery as an extension of that. It’s effectively
- somewhat unsurprisingly one of the partners in this
a chain of custody, we’ve treated this beer as well as
business is from the US. Steve Saldana looked around
we can, and we would like to expect the same from the
and wasn’t happy with what he saw so in opening the bar
publican.
decided to do something about this.
“In the keg market we see a lot of places with kegs at
“There was no other place doing it right. It angered
room temperature, often under the bar, and just running
me that when asking people why beer was being served
through a flash cooler of some kind. That beer is going to
this way (bad dispense) they said it was the best way and
age so much quicker than even a beer kept in a regular
there were no other options... I wanted to prove them
10c cellar, let alone if it was kept at 4c like some of the
wrong,” says Saldana.
direct draw systems. Any instability in package is going
The bar is going strong, now well into its third year of
to show up much more quickly for these people than
trading, and I use it as a prime example of good practice.
someone with a cold cellar. Refrigerated delivery for us
This year, via Jolly Good Beer, they will start receiving
is about taking the best care of our beer, but also setting
beers from key brewers via a full coldchain on a regular
an example to our customers of how they should be
basis - I believe this may be a UK first.
looking after beer,” explains James Hayward from Iron Pier
I have started building a map of UK “coldchain-ready” retailers. I tried this two years ago and decided a map with
Brewery I think this is key all the way down the chain. If you’re
just 3 pins on it wasn’t much use to anyone. Today, not
delivering beer “warm” to distributors, then why should
including brewery taps, I am up to 9 - which is certainly
they see any reason to do better after that point? If you’re
an improvement but it’s a miniscule proportion of the total
delivering beer warm to retailers - same again. At Jolly
number of beer retailers in the UK.
Good Beer we have convinced several trade cus-tomers
The most positive thing right now is simply that
to improve simply by the fact the beer we deliver arrives
people are actually talking about coldstorage and
cold and it feels somehow wrong to then let it warm up.
coldchain more. It is becoming “a thing”, per se. Our
But ultimately a larger industry change needs to come
fellow wholesalers The Bottle Shop also moved to full
top-down from breweries.
coldstorage at their warehouse in 201X(?), and last year
That doesn’t mean the rest of us should sit back and
BrewDog announced they were moving their central
wait for them mind - at Jolly Good Beer we’ve started
distribution warehouse over to full coldstorage. Through
working from the middle to implement coldchain where
the work of businesses like The Bottle Shop, importers
possible, having deployed our first refrigerated HGV this
Cask International, and ourselves we’re seeing more
March. Coldchain is an achievable goal. One of the most
importance put on imports being fully coldchained to
shocking things to me is that in five years of trading I have
UK coldstorage facilities. It is a bit of a joke that we don’t
only ever had a single brewery request a site inspection,
show British beer that same level of respect. It’s even
albeit many others have visited on my own invitation. I
reassuring, albeit disconcerting, that people have been
would welcome more inspections with open arms. If I was
caught out lying about having coldstorage and coldchain
a brewer I’d be much more interested in how my beer is
… it means the right questions are being asked, and those
being cared for down the supply chain than seems to be
without the correct answer are feeling compelled to lie. We have discussions in place to help four venues
the norm. There is probably call for a brewery-backed scheme
this year launch coldchain-ready, and a long-term goal
to verify supply chain standards. A more modern-beer
of connecting up coldstore dots to form a chain to all
targeted version of Cask Marque? There’s nothing like
these sites. My hope is we can encourage more people
getting a check-mark of approval to motivate people to
at all levels to move in the right direction, for the sake of
up their game.
awesome beer. The future is brightly flavoured: the future is chilled. u
A changing landscape About the author: Yvan Seth owns and runs Jolly Good
I
Beer. The business supplies beer, fits out cellars and installs
t's pretty much coming hand-in-hand with industry
and supports draught lines at establishments carrying
adoptions of other aspects of American “craft beer”
beers the company provides.
practices. The popular new beer styles are so sensitive
brewersjournal.info
For more information, visit: http://jollygoodbeer.co.uk/
April 2019
39
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The Cold Store Conundrum There’s no point in creating a great beer if cold storage, or rather the lack of it, will prove detrimental to your product. For those where reliable cellaring is a challenge along the supply chain, their site doesn’t allow for it, or can’t justify large upfront financial investment, portable cold storage may be the solution, explains Lisa Rowbotham head of UK sales at Blue Cube Portable Cold Stores (PCS). by lisa rowbotham
I
Portable cold stores: An opportunity for brewers
t is widely reported that the enemies of beer
business and every site is slightly different. Whether
are time, oxygen, light, and heat. Numerous
you’re looking for a small, space saving option to fit into
solutions and precautions are in place to ensure
a confined site, or a large temperature regulated storage
time optimisation, oxygen prevention, and light
facility, options will be available to you.
protection, but consistent heat regulation can often
be overlooked. To keep beer as close to brewery fresh as possible,
Units are available as small as 10 accessible pallets, or linked units to allow hundreds of pallet units. We’re also able to offer tailor-made designs, which for some
heat needs to be controlled throughout the cold chain
businesses is vital, in order to link to current facilities, for
until it reaches the consumer. Studies have found that
use internal or external.
beer which is kept at a consistent cold temperature has
The rental opportunity
significantly less degradation than those kept at higher temperatures, or those which fluctuate from warm back to a cold temperature. Most beer deteriorates from the moment it leaves the brewery; heat accelerates chemical reactions causing beers to have the unsatisfactory ‘cardboard’ like taste.
B
uilding your own cold storage facility, or increasing your current size, can often take significant upfront financial inputs, as well as
Many statistics are quoted, but in general a beer stored at
the implications of planning permission. However,
37oC for one week tastes as old as a beer stored at 21oC
investigating renting can often provide a flexible solution.
for two months, or as old as a beer stored at 4oC for one
There is no minimum hire term, contracts can be as
year.”
flexible as you need them to be.
Finding a suitable solution for your business is key.
Both our standard sizes and tailor-made builds are
Traditional cellaring can be difficult to regulate, and isn’t
available on rental terms, so can provide bespoke
always a possibility on every brewery site. Brewing has
solutions without the large financial inputs.
seen a huge influx of new productions, which is fantastic,
Rental also ensures a high quality product, along with
but finding suitable sites can be a challenge, but one
the security of knowing that all service and breakdowns
option could be portable cold stores. Despite being
are covered. We offer 24 hour, 365 day support which
called ‘cold stores’ they are able to provide regulated
many of our customers find the most reassuring element
temperature control from -26oC to +26oC, and allow
of their decision making.
greater flexibility to businesses. It may seem simple, but finding the right solution for your business should always be top priority. Every
brewersjournal.info
Within the cold storage industry different options are available from portable and non-portable cold stores to containers. Make sure you consider the cost of
April 2019
41
fo cu s
refr i gerat i on
Portable cold storage
Making the most efficient use of your units is key to improving efficiency, which is why we provide training on delivery for all users.
temperature control per pallet of goods, as those offering
Regulation changes
cheaper deals may not provide the best value for money. You also need to consider the energy efficiency of units, as your energy consumption will be impacted. It’s important to find a company that will consider all the different ways it will impact your business to find the best solution for you. It’s important to find suppliers who will support your business needs now, but also think about where you’re heading and provide you with options that will facilitate
M
any refrigerants and air-conditioning (RAC) systems used in the food and drink manufacturing sector use HFC refrigerants. The
most common of these are R-404A, R-134a, and R-410A, which all have a high global warming potential (GWP). Regulations have been implemented in 2014, 2016,
your plans for growth. Making your beer is a passion, so its
and 2018 to reduce the use of these gases, which has
key to find a supplier who supports your passion by giving
had a significant impact on the food and drink industry.
you the best knowledge and support available.
The industry is now working towards January 2020 where there will be a ban on using virgin HFCs to service
Don't take cold storage for granted
refrigeration equipment that uses a refrigerant with a GWP about 2500. We’re lucky in that we have always had a programme of reinvestments and are highly conscious
J
ust like any well brewed beer, cold storage units
of our environmental impact so have kept ahead of
need care and consideration. Just like your fridge
regulation changes in our new highly efficient units,
at home, the doors need to be left open as little as
but it could catch some out and should be a significant
possible; to help reduce heat loss, all good suppliers will supply air curtains. Make sure the unit isn’t loaded above
consideration for business owners. Overall, for those where reliable cellaring is a
the load line. Check for debris blocking airflow such as
challenge along the supply chain, their site doesn’t allow
shrink wrap or packaging labels.
for it, or can’t justify large upfront financial investment,
Ice can build up on the evaporators which can have
portable cold storage may be the solution to ensuing
huge efficiency impacts, so once any ice is visible on the
highest possible quality for your beer. With you working
evaporators then run a defrost cycle, defrosts need to be
so hard to create a fantastic product, this may provide a
run no less than once a day.
great solution to ensure your hard work isn’t lost. u
42
April 2019
Brewers Journal
CDR BeerLab – Quality Control & Process Analysis in your Brewery l ABV, IBU, colour & pH in one analyser l Quick & easy to use l No calibration needed l Other tests available for liquor, wort & beer
Want to improve Quality Control in your brewery? Contact: Lee.Walsh@qclscientific.com
01342 820820 Brewers Journal BeerLab July 18.indd 1
www.qclscientific.com/beerlab 07/06/2018 16:53:41
refr i gerat i on
fo cu s
Keeping their cool When BrewDog needed eco-friendly CO2 refrigeration solution for its new cold storage and distribution centre in Scotland, it called on Star Refrigeration to step up to the task.
customers take their business to the next level.” The CO2 Refrigeration Solution Star’s proposal was based on the use of a direct expansion CO2 refrigeration system in conjunction with six off-air coolers within the chamber. The CO2 plant is designed for a duty of 480KW based upon a chamber temperature of +50C and a design ambient temperature
by euan duncan
of +300C. The CO2 refrigeration package is a standalone system
S
within the warehouse where it evaporates, removing
presenting the energy efficient, cost effective cooling
vapour. The use of CO2 means that smaller pipework can
solution to BrewDog among a range of bidders.
be used to distribute cooler around the facility, helping to
located on the exterior of the building and connected
tar Refrigeration has recently successfully
to the coolers via pipework. It includes reciprocating
delivered an eco-friendly CO2 refrigeration
compressors, an air-cooled gas cooler with variable
solution for a new cold storage and
speed fans, an interstage vessel, subcooler and electrical
distribution centre at BrewDog’s recently
panel with PLC controller.
purchased Eurocentral warehouse in
Motherwell, Scotland. The manufacturer was awarded the contract after
The centre forms part of a 80,000m3 warehouse at the Eurocentral complex which offers strong access to Scotland’s central road network.
Liquid CO2 from the package is supplied to coolers the heat from the room, before returning to the pack as
save installation and steelwork costs. The pipework was fully insulated to Star’s standard specifications and feeds each of the six air coolers,
Having acquired the new warehouse to use as a
which are controlled by a panel located in the adjacent
distribution centre, BrewDog commissioned Star to
ambient area. The air cooler casework has a galvanised
deliver a brand-new plant capable of chilling to +5oC at a
steel finish and honeycomb air straighteners have been
price that was cost-effective for the company.
designed with a five degrees angle upwards, to achieve
BrewDog also specified the use of natural refrigerants to avoid harmful F-gas solutions, thus safeguarding the
the necessary air throw and make full use of the beneficial attributes of the Vortex building.
site against future regulations and enhancing its overall
The advantages
safety and environmental credentials. Star was responsible for every aspect of the plant’s development from the design and supply, through to installation and commissioning. Given the proximity of Star’s branch in Bellshill just five miles away, the company was uniquely positioned to rapidly respond to BrewDog’s requirements and queries at all times. BrewDog was already familiar with Star Refrigeration
C
O2 was deemed safer and more cost effective at this particular site and application. It is already present in our atmosphere and it is futureproofed
against the f-gas environmental legislation. Also, it does not carry the hazards linked to other refrigerants such as
after the company enlisted the help of Star Technical
ammonia and can directly cool the building without the
Solutions (STS) back in 2017. Star consultants determined
addition of a secondary fluid such as glycol, which would
the brewery’s current refrigeration load and spare
have required a lower evaporating temperature, thus
capacity ahead of increasing production with the
reducing efficiency.
construction of a new £20m brewery in Ellon. Euan Duncan, technical sales engineer at Star
The reduced dimensions of the equipment involved and the lightweight nature of the coolers and pipework
Refrigeration, explained, “We’re delighted to be working
meant that the CO2 plant was significantly lighter and less
with BrewDog once again. We’ve demonstrated how
intrusive than alternative solutions. Given the building’s
Star are committed to pushing the boundaries of what
structural restrictions, the limited weight impact proved to
is possible in the refrigeration industry and helping our
be a key USP in the eyes of BrewDog.
44
April 2019
Brewers Journal
refr i gerat i on
Overall, Star’s solution translated into financial savings as the chosen setup resulted in a price per kilowatt of just one pound, or around a 30% cost reduction in comparison to a traditional ammonia glycol system.
The outcome
T
he successful design, supply, installation and
fo cu s
Whitby Tanks BREWERY TANKS BOUGHT AND SOLD
commissioning of the plant offers BrewDog the capability to take full control of their beer’s
temperature controlled storage and distribution, allowing them to service the craft beer industry in a manner not currently being offered by their rivals. With the plant now able to maintain optimum temperatures within the distribution centre, BrewDog’s craft beer will be delivered to the consumer without losing quality or flavour. Niall Murphie, engineering manager at BrewDog, added, “Star Refrigeration delivered an energy efficient, financially viable and environmental responsible solution. This allow us to remain uniquely placed to serve the needs of beer lovers all over the country and beyond, helping to spread our passion for craft beer to every
Contact Toby Taylor
sales@whitbytanks.co.uk | 01947 606 237
corner of the globe.
brewersjournal.info
April 2019
45
water
s e c to r
Optimise your process The control of industrial processes can be a complex operation involving multiple valves, sensors and controllers which means there are many considerations when looking for opportunities for process optimisation, explains Greg Wainhouse, of BĂźrkert. And by using best practice and ensuring control protocols are updated when process changes are implemented however, ensures the process remains efficient and effective.
and labour intensive. In addition, it is a reactive process, more often used when the consistency of the dried sludge doesn’t meet expectations. During the time taken to observe the change, complete the test and alter the settings, the centrifuge has continued to discharge a substandard end product.
Dealing with solids in suspension
I
n the first instance, assessing the percentage of solids using a turbidity sensor located on the intake to the centrifuge will significantly increase the response
time to any changes. These sensors look at refracted
by Greg Wainhouse
light to provide an approximation of the solids loading
O
of the incoming sludge, but they can suffer from fouling
ne of the major challenges in the water
problems, and the calibration process can be interpreted
treatment sector involves the sludge
differently by various operators.
dewatering process, which in many cases
By constantly monitoring the inlet of the process,
involves high speed centrifuges that
adjustments can be made quickly and the amount of
separate the solid and liquid fractions.
processed sludge that falls below the required standard
To assist this process, a polymer is added to the sludge
is minimised. Further improvements can be made by
to help bind the solid particles together. The goal is to
adding a flowmeter, or better still a device that provides a
produce a final product that has the right consistency that
mass flow measurement.
makes transport efficient, without moving excess water to the fields, where it is spread as agricultural soil enhancer. The process has a number of variables, including the
By creating a pro-active system that makes adjustments based on data from the inlet, as opposed to a reactive system that observes the results before
percentage solids of the raw sludge, the flowrate of the
implementing a change, process engineers will be
sludge, the amount of polymer being added and the
following best practice. Furthermore, this setup reduces
speed of the centrifuge. Of these, the solid content of the
the amount of operator intervention and delivers a more
sludge is crucial to determine the settings for the rest of
stable output.
the process.
Brewing perfection
There are several ways in which this can be determined, including a process where a sludge sample is placed in a petri dish, and the water is evaporated off to obtain the mass of the solids. This is not a very efficient process and can take 45 minutes to complete. Once the results are available, the centrifuge and polymer settings can be adjusted and an improvement in the consistency of the dewatered sludge should be apparent. However, changes in the solids content can occur frequently, which makes this process quite ineffective
46
April 2019
A
n important part of the brewing process is adding oxygen to the wort to allow the yeast to thrive and create the alcohol and carbon dioxide. After the
boiled wort has been chilled to fermentation temperature, oxygen is used to start the fermentation process. If air, which contains 20% oxygen, is added, then the process can only achieve an O2 concentration of eight parts per million (ppm). For higher levels, around 10
Brewers Journal
water
ppm, typically used by commercial breweries for higher
s e c to r
Precision control of cleaning processes
strength beers, pure oxygen is required. However, the ability of the wort to absorb oxygen is affected by its specific gravity, which is measured on
levels of dissolved oxygen which have a major impact on
the Plato gravity scale. This measures the concentration
the quality of the final product.
of dissolved solids in the wort. Furthermore, each yeast
pH in water
strain has an optimum oxygen level and if this is not achieved precisely, the optimum fermentation rate will not be achieved. Some of the most important flavour contributors to beer are fermentation products such as esters, higher alcohols and sulphur compounds. The concentrations of these flavour compounds will be altered if the growth characteristics of the yeast are less than perfect. Achieving the optimum O2 level in the wort for each beer therefore is very important in terms of product quality, so an effective process to control the oxygen
C
arbon dioxide (CO) is used to reduce the pH of the water for a number of reasons. Primarily, it is a gas that is easy to handle, non-corrosive and its most
appealing feature is that it will not lower the pH of water below 7.0. In addition, the only maintenance required for the dosing system is to replenish the gas cylinders periodically. The control structure for this dosing system needs
levels is essential. Using a mass flow sensor to establish
to cope with variable flow as well as decreasing gas
the concentration of dissolved solids, and total volume,
pressure as the volume in the cylinders deceases. Using
coupled with a mass flow controller to deliver the gas, is
a mass flow controller that is calibrated for the gas
an efficient starting point.
and delivers accurate measurements independent of
To improve the accuracy of the system even more, the signal from a dissolved oxygen (DO) probe in the
temperature and pressure, is very important. Many will use a pH sensor after the dosing point and
fermenter vessel can provide feedback to adjust the
use this information to adjust the gas flow rate. This
setpoint and obtain the exact level of dissolved oxygen
reactive process can be optimised by adding a pH sensor
required. This offers the opportunity to maintain precise
to the input side and using the readings from this sensor
brewersjournal.info
April 2019
47
s e c to r
water
to set the CO2 dosing rate. The second sensor then acts as validation of the process setting. This offers a quicker
Oxygen levels accurately controlled during fermentation to ensure optimum product quality.
response to changes in the pH levels at the input. For those working in hygienic applications, clean-inplace (CIP) is a very important process that maintains
can therefore offer many benefits. Correctly positioned pH sensors for example can
the cleanliness of equipment. Using a combination of
provide data on the effectiveness of the process,
chemicals, water and heat, the process offers a very
while conductivity sensors can provide a measure of
efficient method of cleaning vessels and pipework
contamination – once this figure has reached almost zero,
without dismantling them.
the procedure can then be concluded with minimum
However, time taken for cleaning is time lost from
delays to production.
production, so this needs to be kept to a minimum
Streamlined processes
whilst also ensuring that the process has been effective. Optimising the control of CIP reduces costs as well as minimising chemical usage and improving productivity. The CIP process can involve a range of chemicals that are used to clean and disinfect the equipment. The concentration of these chemicals is very important in achieving an effective cleaning cycle without wasting
U
ltimately, improving data collection, interpretation and analysis can offer many advantages. Working with experienced process
control manufacturers, such as BĂźrkert, can yield benefits
expensive materials. Also, using control systems
across the board. From designing new installations to
that are purely timer-based offers no confidence in
improving the efficiency and effectiveness of existing
the effectiveness of the process and also retains no
equipment, getting the right sensor in the right place will
meaningful data, which may be required for regulatory
have a significant impact.
compliance. By examining the temperature and the conductivity
Process optimisation is primarily about acquiring the correct data and using it as effectively as possible. This
of the cleaning fluid it is possible to determine if too
requires experience in the application as well as with the
much energy or too much chemical is being used. Any
equipment itself to ensure a cost-effective and reliable
reductions in energy consumption or raw materials will
installation.
have a beneficial effect on operational costs. Working with sensor manufacturers that have
This expertise in manufacturing and expansive knowledge of numerous applications helps customers to
experience in this application to create a more
reduce operating costs, improve productivity and ensure
sophisticated control and sensor feedback-loop system
compliance with regulatory bodies where necessary. u
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April 2019
Brewers Journal
WHY RENT WHEN YOU CAN
OWN? Renting Kegs & Casks or paying infinite per-fill fees is like tossing money down the tap. Instead, build your company’s equity with Keg Logistics’ Rent-to-Own program.
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31.01.2019 14:27:45
water
s e c to r
Influencing the water market There is a quiet revolution taking place when it comes to water procurement. This movement was spearheaded by Greene King with Whitbread, Heineken UK, Marstons and Stonegate Pub Company following suit. This group now has real influence in the open water marketplace. How? Through obtaining a self-supply licence, explains Neil Pendle, managing director at Waterscan by Neil Pendle
A
self-supply licence for water and sewerage
business operations, any opportunity to act on this
services uniquely enables an organisation
precious resource should be embraced. Self-supply
to be active participants in the de-regulated
offers this opportunity and it builds on work already
‘open’ water market across England.
undertaken at company-level to implement water cost
It offers licence-holders the ability
to deal directly with wholesalers (instead of through retailers), to gain an unrivalled view of their cost and
and consumption controls - it really takes their efforts to the next level. With nine organisations now eligible to self-supply, we
consumption data enabling them to drive down water
can begin to realise its benefits at scale and demonstrate
usage in support or sustainability targets, and to give
how it can bring about positive impacts to their
the hospitality industry as a whole the ability to shape
sustainability and financial agendas.
the future water market through direct liaison with retail
First to market
market operator MOSL and economic regulator Ofwat. In the longer term, it promises to fuel innovation and resilience across the sector. In all cases, independent consultant we act as the companies’ managing agent and provides technical support and services for the operation of the licence (including meter reading, central market operating system
G
reene King was the first of 1.2 million eligible organisations to apply for and obtain a selfsupply licence. With our support, the company
switched all of its 3,000+ supply points on 1st April 2017
(CMOS) transactions, wholesaler management and
(the day the water market opened), representing 30%
finding further water efficiency savings). The companies
of the total market switches on this day. This proactive
themselves build direct relationships with wholesalers
approach to the water market overhaul protected
and pay water and sewerage charges through the
Greene King from some of the market teething issues
settlement process.
and generated significant additional benefits, not least in
The granting of self-supply licences to these leading
terms of water efficiency.
breweries was an important step in realising the ambitions
In its first year of self-supply, the company saved in
of all concerned. Importantly, it signalled Ofwat’s support
excess of 140,000m3 of water. This equates to 384.32m3
for innovative approaches to challenge the status-quo in
per day in consumption savings: the equivalent of
the water sector as a whole.
676,313 pints. Further benefits being realised are site level
With water being such a key component in their
brewersjournal.info
engagement which is driving efficiency and improved
April 2019
51
s e c to r
water
savings, greater control over supply and a single point of contact across its entire estate leading to exceptional customer service. This was highlighted during the ‘Beast from the East’ cold snap. Communications from Waterscan were sent to each Greene King site advising of need to be on alert from higher than usual consumption, which could indicate a cracked and leaking pipe. In addition, impromptu meter reads were taken across the Greene King estate to verify usage and pinpoint any unexpected spikes in consumption. This proactive approach to water management is not commonly associated with the service levels seen in the water industry and is an example of what customers should be experiencing. Gavin Worthington, senior purchasing manager at Greene King, told us: “We are looking forward to building on this successful experience to date, which we believe delivers competitive advantage in both corporate social responsibility and commercial terms. "We have seen reports of a slow customer response
the application process for self-supply. Based on the conversations that we are currently
and questionable impacts of the open water market, but
having, we expect interest in self-supply to continue
this has not been our experience. While self-supply was a
to rise as organisations find the approach to be a good
leap into unchartered waters, it has delivered better than
solution to their issues in the new market and an effective
expected results in a short timeframe.”
way to improve water management. Discussions at the Self-Supply User Forum indicate
Looking ahead
that there are multiple drivers moving forward. Enhancing sustainability and resilience from service interruptions is one of the community’s key focus areas. There’s an
S
o, what does the future hold for self-supply?
immediate requirement to cleanse and analyse CMOS
Certainly Ofwat is encouraged. In a recent
data and, longer term, achieve better usage visibility with
consultation on the matter, the industry watchdog
automated meter readings.
stated: “Contrary to our initial expectations, recent trends
This will ensure 100% accuracy and more informed
suggest that we can expect to see the number of self-
decisions on investment and resource allocation. Driving
supply licensees increase significantly over time.
down costs through efficiency initiatives and close
The entry of self-supply licensees has been one of
working relationships with wholesalers and also working
the most innovative aspects of the business retail market
collaboratively to achieve beneficial terms for the self-
that we have seen so far. The regulator subsequently
supply community also features prominently amongst
announced measures to cut the cost and complexity of
priorities.” u
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Brewers Journal
Great Beers
begin with F O R
M O R E
I N F O R M AT I O N
Muntons Malt C O N TA C T: D I S T R I B U T O R
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David Hannah
Michaela Teagle
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joseph.fifield@muntons.com
david.hannah@muntons.com
01636 823909
01733 700089
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sales@absolutebrewingsupplies.com
Muntons plc Cedars Maltings Stowmarket Suffolk IP14 2AG
T 01449 618300
muntons.com
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c ro s s i n g
co nti n e nt s
S hort
F i nger
Best of Both Worlds When Rob Hern helped launch Canada's Short Finger Brewing Co back in June 2015, it was a statement of intent. A concerted move away from his experiences in large-scale brewing, Rob, along with his wife Kat RogersHern, started their business with the aim of educating, aiding and enabling the homebrewers of Waterloo and beyond. It’s something they’ve gone on to achieve, and it should just so happen that Short Finger brews its own great beers, too.
building, when you’re heading up a business that has no comparable peers for the government and other bodies to match you against. The Short Finger Brewing Co story began when Hern and Kat Rogers-Hern launched the business as an online store from their home in Waterloo, Ontario back in June 2015. Equipment was stored in their den, and raw ingredients in the basement. The kitchen fridge was stocked with yeast. Hern considers himself a beer lover, Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) certified judge, and avid homebrewer who has been working in the beer industry for nearly ten years. Before that, he attended Trent University, where he spent his days dreaming of one day opening a small
by Tim Sheahan
brewery. While there, he managed to pay most of his bills by throwing parties. The quality of his beer has come
I
a long way since the days of pitching yeast at the local
hopeful of getting a few well-earned days off. Whether
Belgian beer importer, which had a real impact on his
he’ll get them though, is a different matter. The launch of
current brewing style. Since starting Short Finger, he
their own nano brewery earlier in the summer has been
has collaborated with several breweries including: Great
followed with plans to offer drinkers the ability to imbibe
Lakes, Bar Hop, Indie Ale House, Sawdust City, Half Hours
on-site and take out Hern’s beers. And with that, comes a
on Earth, Block Three, Barncat Ales, TWB, and more.
don’t think there’s anyone like us in Canada, that I know of. So we’re definitely unique, but being
brew-your-own facility. He got his first real taste for brewing under the
unique has given me a lot of headaches, too!”
guidance of Mike Lackey during his time at Great Lake
laughs Rob Hern, co-owner of Kitchener, Canada-
Brewery, where he managed LCBO sales and worked on
based Short Finger Brewing Co.
the 25th Anniversary rebrand.
It’s less than a week until Christmas and Hern is
raft of hurdles to overcome. “When you are a home-brew supply business, but also
Hern also spent time working at Horizon Beers, a
The company’s co-founder, Kat Rogers-Hern can be summed up as an educator, librarian, and beer
one that makes its own beer, nobody really gets what
lover. While she was late to the party and didn't start
type of company you are,” he explains. “There are many
appreciating beer until her mid-twenties, Rob's passion
regulations, licences and instances of being categorised
and enthusiasm for it were contagious.
the wrong way. It took 15 months to get our business
As with any good teacher-librarian, she took the
license when starting out, and then you have to do it all
academic approach from Day 1, reading everything she
again when you want to actually sell beer. It’s like opening
could and taking every sensory training course to be
a new business all over.”
found; the more she learned - and sampled - the more
But don’t mistake Hern’s comments as negative, though. You get the impression such tricky obstacles were expected and are seen as almost character-
54
April 2019
she loved it. Rogers-Hern is a Prud'Homme beer sommelier and certified BJCP judge, and is plunging into the Cicerone
Brewers Journal
Team Short Finger: Rob and Kat
c ro s s i n g
co nti n e nt s
S hort
certification program. In these early days of Short Finger Brewing Co, the
F i nger
The answer was a cautiously optimistic yes. With 28 days to renovate and move in, it was a tight
duo would fulfil orders that were placed online and
turnaround. Drains were cut, floors sealed, walls painted,
customers had the option of shipping or local pick-up.
and a massive warehouse party - called Short Can - was
Pick-ups happened from the house, which was in the
thrown on February 9th to help raise money for the
middle of serious renovations. Rather than grab-and-go,
transition. Short Finger Brewing Co. closed it’s doors for
it was the norm for homebrewers to stick around for a
one extra day over the Family Day weekend to make the
beer on the back porch or in the kitchen. Homebrewers
move, reopening in its new 6500 square foot location on
would also bring bottles by to get feedback from the duo
Wednesday, February 21.
- particularly if they were faced with an off flavour they couldn’t identify. Wasting no time, the company’s first ‘Homebrew Hangout’ followed a month later at the Bent Elbow in Kitchener. These events were drop-in community building
Come June, and much to their relief, all permits were finally in order and Short Finger Brewing Co. launched its bottle shop on the same day as their second annual Solstice is Coming bulk grain sale. Three barrel-aged styles were released in 375ml
and education events for regional homebrewers. Free
bottles, and six beers were offered for growler fills and on
to attend, and coupled with a featured talk along with a
draught.
collaboration brew made by Rob + the night’s speakers,
Hern is particularly proud of the beers he produces
brewers from aforementioned names such as Abe Erb,
on his modest, and in his own words, “rudimentary" 4hl
Block Three, Wellington, Great Lakes, Four Fathers, Barn
system. At the time of writing, brews available to take
Cat, TWB, and others have spoken on a wide variety of
out include Lando - Batch VB, a blended Sour Saison,
topics.
which contains a small amount of Lando (A), blended
In the following weeks and months, the company
with fresh saison and then matured with mixed field
hosted home brewing classes, competitions and
berries harvested from Steckle Heritage Farm. Secondary
hands-on sessions designed to raise the standard of
fermented with a mixed Brett culture from Omega Labs.
homebrewing in Ontario. “After a year of hunting for the right space, we
Also on offer is Maus, a 3.8% Conditioned Mouse Melon Gose, where Short Finger teamed up with Steckle
moved into a 1200 square foot retail space just south of
Heritage Farm to produce a Gose that incorporates
downtown,” says Hern. “The shop was a small addition on
fresh-picked coriander seed then aged with freshly
the back of a much larger unit, which was then-occupied
picked mouse melons and lemon cucumbers. The beer
by a major construction company.”
is conditioned with a special Brett from Escarpment Yeast
Short Finger secured first right to that space, should it become available down the road. Local pick-ups slowly
Labs. “I’ll be honest, I’m glad with the system I use. It’s small
transitioned down to this new spot while renovations were
but I know how much work goes into producing these
happening (in its previous life, the shop was a storage
beers and if you’re making beer at whatever volume, you
garage). Later that summer, the shop officially opened its
need to know where and how you will be selling it,” he
doors for in-store shopping.
explains.
With an eye on growth, Hern convinced the property
Through the business, Hern has seen a cross-section
owner to let him rent said owner’s connected private
of the Ontario brewing industry, from established
storage unit, adding an additional 600 square feet to the
operations to the professional brewers of tomorrow. And
shop’s footprint. This was renovated for the purpose of
with that, he’s developed a fair idea of what constitutes a
building a small brewhouse.
solid business plan.
He worked with Greg Smith (working owner at TWB
“You see people that are dead set on building 15 or
Co-op) to build a custom 3-barrel brewing system. Kat
20bbl systems, or they’re producing a 15bbl batch of
was able to move the Beginner’s Guide to Homebrewing
Kölsch. That’s fine, but how is that style fairing for other
classes and sensory training sessions out of borrowed/
breweries, who will be buying your beer, and where will
rented spaces and into the brewhouse.
you be selling it?” He asks. “It is a lot of work to sell beer.
Fast forward to early 2018, Rob and Kat were
I don’t have a taproom or a sales team, so you have to
presented with more good news, even if it was a little
put the effort in. Everyone has their own approach to
earlier than they would have anticipated…
business, but if you don’t know where the beer you’re
While the main building at 20 Hurst Avenue was not originally slated to become available until Spring 2019,
brewing is going to go, then I’d worry.” While Short Finger has undergone steady growth in
AMICO construction decided to move out early and we
these last three years, Hern is keen to steady the ship,
had to decide pretty much on the spot if they wanted to
once their tasting room is complete, of course.
expand.
56
“We have 7,500sqft of space and that’s three times
April 2019
Brewers Journal
c ro s s i n g
co nti n e nt s
S hort
F i nger
bigger than I ever said this business would be,” he
if that’s my perspective, then you can expect many casual
explains. “But I’ve experienced the far greater scale of
drinkers to adopt a similar attitude. There is so much
things when working at Great Lakes, so I’m comfortable
choice around, why stick with mediocrity?”
with what we have and knowing we won’t grow much
With that. Hern believes breweries should no longer be expecting any form of commendation for opting
more.” What Hern wants is an environment for people to
against putting out sub-standard beer.
enjoy their beers, to engage with other drinkers and grow
“If you’re turning to social media to show consumers
as a result. Ensuring everything was right before opening
that you’re pouring out a bad batch of beer, then there’s
the business up to others has, partly, come from Hern’s
something very wrong with that,” he says. “It doesn’t
experiences drinking at other brewing operations.
happen in any other industry, so why should it happen in
“I’ll be honest, my old rule was to give a new brewery six months to dial their sh*t in. I’d swing by an opening and if there were obvious faults in that brewery’s beers,
beer? If I have to do that, I’m too annoyed that I messed up to be thinking about gratification from social media.” And with the opening of its tasting room due in 2019,
I’d forgive that and give them time to improve things,”
Hern is looking forward to sharing his beers with drinkers
says Hern. “But that approach has changed. With so many
of all kinds, growing in the same way Short Finger has
breweries opening, there is no need to be so patient. And
helped others over these last three years. u
58
April 2019
Brewers Journal
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fermentat i on
s c i e n c e
The impact of fermentation on your beer Fermentation and yeast have always been key drivers when it comes to innovation in beer production. However, that role is even more pronounced today, explains JoAnne Carilli-Stevenson, global key account manager at White Labs
Sour beers
T
he evolution of natural acidity develops a balanced complexity. The acidity present is usually in the form of lactic, acetic and other organic acids
naturally developed with acidified malt in the mash or in fermentation by the use of various microorganisms
by Joanne Carilli-Stevenson
C
raft Brewing is a global phenomenon and not just because of the growth or
including certain bacteria and yeasts. Acidic character can be a complex balance of several types of acid and attributes of age. The trends and opportunities with these beers are
number of new breweries. It’s because of
various production methods - kettle sours, primary and
the new styles of beer being created due
secondary fermentation, new bacteria and yeast isolation
to innovation and creativity in the area of
to produce acidity.
fermentation.
Mixed culture & Brett beers
Fermentation and yeast have always driven innovation
in beer production, but today it is even more than it has been in the past. Just look at the number of new beer styles in The World Beer Cup. In 2008, there were 91 categories and by 2017 there were 101 including Experimental Beers categories for Wild Beers, Sake-Yeast Beer, Field Beer, Wood & Barrel Ages Sour Beer and Mixed Culture Brett Beer. When reviewing the style guidelines for these types of beers, it is apparent the impact of fermentation on these
A
cidity resulting from Brettanomyces fermentation results in a complex flavor profile. Brettanomyces character, at low to high levels, should be present
and expressed as horsey, goaty, leathery, phenolic, fruity and/or acidic aromas and flavors. Here, primary fermentation is more common with usage in common beer styles like saison and IPA
styles and you can identify the trends.
brewersjournal.info
April 2019
61
s c i e n c e
fermentat i on
Experimental beers
“Brew Culture was thrilled to be able to expand on our product line this spring when we partnered with White Labs Pure Yeast
E
xperimental beers are any beers that are primarily grain-based and employ unique and unusual techniques and/or
ingredients. A minimum of 51% of the fermentable carbohydrates must be derived from malted grains.
& Fermentation to become their distributor. Brewers now have access to White Labs' entire portfolio domestically,” explains Daniel Collins, president and founder of Brew Culture. “Our cold storage facilities in Ontario and British
The overall uniqueness and creativity of the process and/
Columbia allow us to receive weekly bulk shipments
or ingredients should be considered when evaluating
to distribute across the country. This alone saves our
these beers.
customers hundreds of dollars on freight each shipment,
These beers are brewed with sake yeast or sake (koji) enzymes. The unique byproducts of sake yeast and/or
and entirely eliminates any customs fees or headaches. Sam Corbeil, brewmaster and co-founder of Sawdust
koji enzymes should be distinctive and in harmony with
City Brewing, added: “Having Brew Culture as the main
other elements. Sake character may best be described
supplier for White Labs in Canada has been great for
as having mild fruitiness and mild earthiness, with
Sawdust City.
mushroom and/or an umami protein-like character. A
"Their Ontario warehouse is just down the road, so
high amount of alcohol may be evident. The trends and
accessing yeast when we need it has never been easier.
opportunities are mainly cultures from other cultures and
It’s also opened up new partnership and collaboration
other beverages.
avenues for us.
As the yeast craze continues, we also see more
“We’ve already been able to work with White Labs
breweries working with wild yeast and spontaneous
on two unique and very fun projects. It’s only been
fermentation and we definitely cannot forget the haze
a few months, so hopefully we’ll be able to grow this
craze, New England IPA
relationship further in the future.
White Labs, a global yeast supplier since 1995
“To have the opportunity to purchase yeast from
supplies breweries around the world with the yeast for all
the Canadian representative of a fantastic producer is
of these beers and recently signed a distribution deal with
exciting, and the added cost savings are a great bonus
Canada's Brew Culture to be able to supply these to the
for our business. Dealing with a trusted supplier like Brew
local market. By making these strains more accessible to
Culture is always a pleasure.” - explained Matt Tweedy,
the breweries there, they have the opportunity to be put
brewmaster and founder of Tooth and Nail Brewing
their own mark on these beer styles, and that is exciting.
Company. u
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April 2019
Brewers Journal
c l a s s i f i e d
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brewersjournal.info
April 2019
63
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64
April 2019
Brewers Journal
c l a s s i f i e d
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April 2019
65
date s
&
e v e nt s
events 31 May 2019 - 3 June 2019
FyneFest Cairndow, Argyll fynefest.com 12 June 2019
Brewers Lectures Nottingham Canalhouse, Nottingham lectures.brewersjournal.info 15 June 2019
Beer day britain Various venues, UK BeerDayBritain.co.uk 4 April 2019 - 7 April 2019
We Are Lager Festival Upper Campfield Market Hall, Manchester wearelager.com 25 April 2019
Tate Tap Takeover Tate Modern, London www.tate.org.uk 10 may 2019
Stewart Brewing Mayfest Loanhead, Midlothian stewartbrewing.co.uk 17 may 2019
Venue TBC lectures.brewersjournal.info 19 July 2019
Birmingham Beer Week Various venues, Birmingham birminghambeerweek.uk 18 July 2019 - 20 July 2019
hawkshead brewery summer festival The Beer Hall, Hawkshead Brewery www.hawksheadbrewery.co.uk 6 August - 10 August 2019
great british beer festival
Castle Rock Brewery, Nottingham castlerockbrewery.co.uk
Olympia, London gbbf.org.uk
Cambridge Beer Festival Jesus Green, Cambridge cambridgebeerfestival.com 24 May 2019 - 25 May 2019
Edinburgh Craft Beer Festival Leith, Edinburgh edinburghcraftbeerfestival.co.uk 31 May 2019 - 2 June 2019
Marlow beer festival Marlow Football Club www.marlowbeerfest.co.uk
April 2019
Brewers Lectures glasgow
Castle Rock Yard Party
20 may 2019 - 25 may 2019
66
July 2019
October 2019
Brewers Lectures Bristol Watershed, Bristol lectures.brewersjournal.info 26 September 2019 - 29 September 2019
falcon beer festival The Falcon, Huntingdon falconhuntingdon.co.uk 28 November 2019
brewers congress One Great George Street, Westminster, London congress.brewersjournal.info
Brewers Journal
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