Report on pattern construction

REPORT ON PATTERN CONSTRUCTION

Introduction: Pattern Construction is very important of Apparel Industry. It can be spun in to yarn or processed in textile such as fabric, knit, non-woven etc by means of yarn an appropriate interacting method. It should have sufficient length, fineness strength, elasticity and softness. The availability and price are also important for a fabric to be used as textile.

It is important that all those working within the fashion industry have an understanding of the basic principles of pattern construction. This explores the terminology and visual language associated with the process of pattern construction.

Task-1 Develop creative and fluent pattern construction skills Task-1.1 Diagnose and use the most suitable methods to solve identified design problems: Pattern Design Hard paper copy of the each component of the garment of exact dimension of each component is called pattern. The pattern’s also includes seam allowance, trimmings allowance, darts, pleats, ease allowance any especial design etc.

Patterns Construction Process: Following instruction must be marked on apparel pattern, to enable the garment to be made up correctly:  Name of the block e.g bodice front, back, sleeve, skirt, collar, yoke, pocket, etc.  Grain line on each pattern piece.  Size e.g. 32, 34, 36, 38, etc.  Centre Front or Centre Back.  Style number or code number of the pattern.

   

Pattern piece e.g skirt front or back.

Cutting information – how many pieces to be cut e.g cut 1, cut 2, cut on fold.

Notches – marks needed to help in assembling of garment sections.

Amount of seam allowance.

Patterns Construction: 1. Manua Method.l 2. By Computer (CAD).

Principles of Pattern Making: A garment sewing patterns or garment fabric & patterns draft is developed by calculating, taking account of the following measurements: • Direct Sample.

• Specification Sheet/ Measurement Chart.

• Actual body size measurements.

• Easy Allowances.

• Sewing Allowance.

Pattern Draft: A pattern draft is a diagrammatic representation of the way a garment is constructed. The objective of pattern draft is to develop a sample garment.

Marker Making: Steps for computerized marker making in apparel industry: • Take the Software for pattern making and marker making.

• Install this software on your computer now.

• Here some garment measurement is needed.

• Free hand sketching of each part of garment on monitor by mouse.

• Check shape and measurements on each part.

• Save this work.

• Automatic grading is carried out.

• Again Save it.

• Then start marker making by one another software in the same computer.

Comparison between CAD Marker Making & Manual Marker Making: • In manual system the system is used to make maker for garment making is traditional. But in CAD system marker making is done in modern system.

• Marker efficiencies is not visible in manual system. Other hand, marker efficiency is visible in CAD system.

• Marker length is not visible in manual system. Marker length is visible in monitor screen at CAD system.

• In manual, once marker is made, not possible to increase its efficiency. But in CAD it is possible to increase the efficiency at any time.

• Marker copying is not possible manually. In CAD, by using Plotter as much as possible copy can be done.

• Manual marker making is very time consuming method whereas, CAD is a faster method.

• In manual system quality cannot be assured. It has quality assurance.

•

Manual system costing is low but CAD is expensive.

Problem pattern Design: If we are problem is employee absenteeism, poor quality parts, financial difficulty, or something similar, the public discussion will tend to focus on solutions rather than on blame attribution. If the problem does not derive from people difficulty, as in how to pack light bulbs more safely or how to hold books upright on partially filled library shelves, posting the problem can hook solutions that may have been applied to a similar problem elsewhere. And of course, the basic strategy behind posting a problem is that it gets several minds working on the problem, both independently and in discussion with others.  Draw a horizontal guideline on paper.  Place the back panels together with hipline on guideline and trace. Transfer darts and grain line with pushpin to paper underneath. Remove patterns.  Repeat for the front.  Square down from hip level to length desired and square across for hemline.  Draw a line down from dart points parallel with center front and back. Label a and b. mark a point 2 or more inches from A and dart point of the princess line.  Square in from side at hemline and blend. Cut from paper. Trace and separate patterns along style line.  Draw grain line , punch and circle darts.  Pattern making problem  Pattern measurement problem  Pattern cutting problem  Breaking the problem  Careful not to looking  Denying a problem perpetuates it.

Solving Design: The problem at an intellectual rather than personal level. If we are problem is employee absenteeism, poor quality parts, financial difficulty, or something similar, the public discussion will tend to focus on solutions rather than on blame attribution. If the problem does not derive from people difficulty, as in how to pack light bulbs more safely or how to hold books upright on partially filled library shelves, posting the problem can hook solutions that may have been applied to a similar problem elsewhere.

And of course, the basic strategy behind posting a problem is that it gets several minds working on the problem, both independently and in discussion with others. People in the organization will talk about the problem in their idle moments.

1. Take time to examine and explore the problem thoroughly before setting out in search of a solution.

Often, to understand the problem is to solve it.

2. Breaking the problem into smaller parts will often make solving it much easier. Solve each part separately.

3. The resources for problem solving are immense and ubiquitous.

4. We can always do something.

5. A problem is not a punishment; it is an opportunity to increase the happiness of the world, an opportunity to show how powerful.

6. The formulation of a problem determines the range of choices the questions we ask determine the answers we receive.

7. Be careful not to look for a solution until we understand the problem, and be careful not to select a solution until we have a whole range of choices.

8. The initial statement of a problem often reflects a preconceived solution.

9. A wide range of choices ideas, possible solutions allows you to choose the best from among many.

A choice of one is not a choice.

10. People work to implement their own ideas and solutions much more energetically than they work to implement others' ideas and solutions.

11. Remember the critical importance of acceptance in solving problems. A solution that is technologically brilliant but sociologically stupid is not a good solution.

12. When the goal state is clear but the present state is ambiguous, try working backwards.

15. Solve the problem that really exists, not just the symptoms of a problem, not the problem we already have a solution for, not the problems wish existed, and not the problem someone else thinks exists.

16. A maker follows a plan, a creator produces a plan.

17. Creativity is the construction of some things new out of some things old, through effort and imagination.

Types of Basic Pattern Grading: Amongst the tutorials provided on the site you'll find a guide to pattern grading. That guide is based on you knowing the individual measurements and where to put them on the pattern. Only a basic shaped pattern is covered, and the example measurements are provided in metric.

For a simpler understanding, but with a larger choice of styles, the diagrams here will show you how to grade you pattern. These diagrams can be used for the slash and spread method of pattern grading or pattern shifting, the areas of growth are shown on each diagram. They can be used for grading any pattern whether it be homemade or commercial..

The basic size grade is 1 size up, but the process can be repeated many times, up or down, or you can multiply the number to get more than one size e.g. from size 12 to size 18 you'd times the number by 3.

The examples provided for women's measurements are a 2" grade (5cm). Front pattern pieces are provided only, use the same details for grading the back pattern pieces.

Men's pattern grading: If we would like to grade men's patterns you can use the charts below as a guide, presuming the grade size is also 2" (5cm). The only difference is the length grade, where the length grade is 1/8" for women, replace with with 1/16" for men. Like wise 1/4" length grade for women needs to change to 1/8" for men.

The charts below are designed as a guide only, and are not the definitive answer to pattern grading.

For more in-depth and accurate pattern grading instruction please refer to a good text book.

A conversion chart is here for those who work in decimals or metric.

Basic Bodice

A basic front bodice pattern. Note the dart. The dart should increase in length

The back of the bodice is graded in the

These are the most basic of pattern blocks, which show where the bodice growth should take place. All other bodice s when you are grading a complex design, try to picture what the design looks like in it's original block form to gauge wh

Basic Fitted Sleeve

The basic fitted sleeve grade is only gr not graded, and the length is added ab has the same total amount of additiona bodice.

Basic Skirt

When grading the skirt the darts do no be 1/2" on each side of the pattern. W grade to either side of the darts, maki once finished.

Basic Trousers

When darts are present at the waist div side of the darts, or use the waist distrib

The hem of the trousers also follow straight trousers or flared trousers onl large for tight trousers. When grading trousers use 3/16" as the hem grade at t For shorts use the 1/2" grade.

Design Variations:

The above grading diagrams are for very basic blocks, however the same principles apply to all other designs and style common pattern configurations based on the grade diagrams above.

Sleeve Design Variations: Short Sleeve

The short sleeve has the same grade at however there is a 1/2"

There is also no length grade aroun additional length then add 1/8" per size

Shirt Sleeve/Straight Sleeve

The shirt sleeve is graded in width 1/2 the cuff that adjoins the

The straight sleeve without a cuff is als

Bishop Sleeve/Bell Sleeve

The bishop sleeve is another variation same grade areas apply as the straig grade 1/4" between sizes.

we can apply these grade areas/figures as a straight sleeve i.e. no fitted areas sleeve, bat wing/angle sleeve etc

Two Piece Sleeve

The two piece sleeve is most often seen grade, if you look carefully you'll see only the under part of the sleeve has be

Bodice and Sleeve Combinations:

Kimono Sleeve

The kimono grade is very straight forw sleeve and the bodice are joined. If yo you can see the similarities, the figure the front bodice. The 1/4" height grad bodice, this continues along

Raglan Sleeve – Dart less

The dartless raglan sleeve has no dart seen in sportswear or easy fitting garme

It is very important that the top of the the bodice area.

Note the sleeve wrist area is 1/4" grad 1/2".

Raglan Two Piece or Darted

The two piece or darted raglan is esse The sleeve armhole area needs to match Here only one side of the sleeve has b the sleeve and join down the middle. growth at the arm hole.

For a long sleeve remember the grade sleeve above for the length grade.

Dolman Sleeve/Square Arm Hole

The dolman is usually a very deep ar Note that the same rules apply for the a the sleeve head needs to match the grow

Drop Shoulder Bodice and Sleeve

The drop shoulder bodice takes the top bodice, therefore the grading follows grades. Note the sleeve here is a short o straight sleeve.

Bodice Variations:

Princess Bodice – shoulder

The princess bodice follows the same only difference is as the pieces are divi too. Note the shoulder grade measurem of the split, you'd also do this for a bas shoulder grade to either side of the sho

Princess Bodice – armhole

The princess armhole bodice is the sam there side pieces are detached from the the grade follows along to that piece to in the relevant places.

Hip Length - side bust dart

This hip length bodice is also graded l grade the length below the waist unles which case it should be treated as a ski does not increase the full 1/4" but only bust suppression.

Bodice with Yoke

The grade for a bodice with a yoke i where the yoke splits from the main continued on to the other piece.

Bodice with Midriff

The bodice with a midriff is the sam follows from one piece to the next whe

Identifying Patterns to Use: Have a look at the design problems we identified above. Now, let us see how to address these problems using design patterns.

The design problems related with 'Team' And 'Team Strategy' We have to address the specifications related to the team and team strategy. As we discussed earlier, when the game is in progress, the end user can change the strategy of his team. This clearly means that we need to separate the Team's Strategy from the Team that uses it.

Specific Design Problem: "When the game is in progress, the end user can change the strategy of his team.

Problem Generalized: "We need to let the algorithm (Team Strategy) vary independently from clients (in this case, the Team) that use it."

Strategy Pattern: Define a family of algorithms, encapsulate each one, and make them interchangeable. Strategy lets the algorithm vary independently from clients that use it.

Task-1.2 Produce patterns for a capsule collection that show accurate interpretation of designs, relevant information and cutting instructions: Produce Pattern In apparel manufacturing, the individual components of a garment are made by hard copy, drawing paper or board paper, which shape and size is same as individual parts of that garments is called pattern.

A pattern, from the French patron, is a type of theme of recurring events of or objects, sometimes referred to as elements of a set. These elements repeat in a predictable manner.

Pattern in architecture is the idea of capturing architectural design ideas as archetypal and reusable descriptions. The term "pattern" is usually attributed to Christopher Alexander, an Austrian born American architect.

The patterns serve as an aid to design cities and buildings. The concept of having collections of "patterns", or typical samples as such is much older.

Two types pattern: 1. Commercial Patterns.

2. Patterns Drafted with Personal Measurements.

Commercial Patterns: Commercial patterns are usually done on tissue paper. Since tissue paper is not bulky, it allows many pieces of pattern to be packed compactly in an envelope. Good patterns are carefully labeled with the following information: pattern size, name of each pattern (back, front, sleeve, etc), number of pieces to cut from each pattern piece, pattern markings like notches, buttons and button hole position, seam allowances, grain lines, center front, center back, hem line markings, dart locations, etc. Some companies even give markings for pattern alteration locations. In addition instruction sheets explaining steps involved in using the pattern, to cut the garment, method of cutting specific fabrics with different textures and print, method of construction and fabric suitability.

Patterns Drafted with Personal Measurements: In many ways it is most advantageous to draft your own patterns rather than buy commercial patterns.

It is most economical, since drafting’s based on personal measurements fit well.

Pattern Design Hard paper copy of the each component of the garment of exact dimension of each component is called pattern. The pattern’s also includes seem allowance, trimmings allowance, darts, pleats, ease allowance any especial design etc.

Affairs patterns design could also be done manually or with the help of computer.

Pattern making A custom dressmaker frequently employs one of three pattern creation methods. The flat-pattern method begins with the creation of a sloper or block, a basic pattern for a fitted, neck bodice and narrow skirt, made to the wearer's measurements. The sloper is usually made of lightweight cardboard or tag board, without seam allowances or style details. Once the shape of the slope has been refined by making a series of mock-up garments called toils or muslins, the final slope can be used in turn to create patterns for many styles of garments with varying necklines, sleeves, and dart placements.

Although it is also used for women’s wear, the drafting method is more commonly employed in menswear and involves drafting a pattern directly onto pattern paper using a variety of straightedges and curves. Since menswear rarely involves draping, pattern-making is the primary preparation for creating a cut-and-sew woven garment. The initial measurements and adjustments are created on paper as a draft. More paper is placed over top of the draft and traced off with seam allowance added to these pieces, which will then be cut out and used to cut out actual fabric for sewing. If this draft will be frequently used, a sloper is created to speed up the production time.

The pattern draping method is used for more elaborate and unique designs that are hard to obtain through the flat pattern method. This is because it is nearly impossible to account for the way a fabric will drape or hang on the body without an actual 3-dimensional test run. It involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern by pinning fabric directly on a dress form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself.

Marker Making In order to effect a large production run, huge quantity of fabrics must be cut from a lay allowing part to be cut as per assortment. In order to make sure a lay, a paper marker is first created. A paper marker is a piece of paper upon which patterns of each part of a garment in the ratio of assortment is 1:2:2:1.

So patterns for each part of S, M, L and XL sizes must be reproduced on a paper in the ratio of 1:2:2:1. This paper is referred to as a paper market. The paper marker is generally placed on ht top of the fabric lay.

Then fabric is cut with a straight-knife cutting machine along the outline of the pattern on the marker.

A marker may be creating manually with a pen or pencil on to a paper or it may be generated with a computer-controlled plotter.

Marker making In the case of automatic computer controlled cutting a paper marker is not essential. The marker is creating in the computer of the CAD system.

The marker is sent to the computer of the automatic cutter, which cuts the fabric with the instruction of the computer of the machine.

Marker analysis: Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments in such a way that fabric wastage would be least.

The representation or drawing of the arrangement of identified garment pattern pieces relevant to the cutting of a batch of material.

The marker placed is placed on the material and provides guidance for cutting. Marker may be on fabric, paper card or held in computer data files.

The factors that influenced Marker planning: The following factors affect marker planning: I. Fabric type; 2. Marker length 3. Cutting quality 4. The requirements of production planning Cutting Section A clothing or fabric cutting is the marks and cuts fabric according to a pattern.

Tasks and Duties: • Marks the size, sewing information and codes on the fabric or worksheet • Lays out fabric on the cutting table • Arranges pattern pieces on the fabric • Marks the pattern outline on the fabric • Cuts the fabric by hand, with an electric hand-held cutting machine or by using computercontrolled equipment • May calculate the amount of fabric needed • Bundles the pieces of fabric together and stores them in order of size.

Depending on the size and type of clothing company, the work of a clothing marker/cutter may be two separate jobs. This is most likely to be the case in larger clothing factories where the marking is done on the computer.

Skills: Clothing markers/cutters need to have measuring skills, problem-solving skills and an eye for detail.

They must be skilled in making calculations, and they should be able to follow instructions. They may also need computer skills.

Knowledge: Clothing markers/cutters should know about fabrics, garment construction, cutting equipment and methods, sewing codes and symbols, and Computer Aided Design (CAD) equipment.

Personal qualities: Clothing markers/cutters need to be accurate, quick, neat and patient. They should also be practical and able to work well under pressure.

Physical requirements: Clothing markers/cutters need to have normal colour vision and good hand-eye co-ordination. Height may be an advantage for reaching across the cutting table.

Educational requirements: It is preferred that clothing markers/cutters have two years' secondary education in technical drawing, moths and basic computing. Some employers prefer their clothing marker/cutters to have a Diploma in Fashion Design and Technology, but this depends on the type of garments made.

Useful Experience: Community or night courses in clothing and/or work in a clothing factory or workroom may provide useful experience.

Task-2 Investigate, understand and apply skills to accurately provide pattern grading solutions Task-2.1 Produce a set of graded patterns for a simple garment with a set of rules explaining the process for sizing up and down and providing information needed by cutters: Pattern grading: Pattern grading is an essential part of pattern making. It decides how patterns increase or decrease sizes. According to countries, pattern grading includes Asian. Generally, pattern grading adjusts for people of different ages and genders. The fabric type also influences the pattern grading standards.

And marker makings are the actual full size print out of how the styles are cut on the fabric. The cost of pattern grading is incomplete without considering marker making

Grading: By following approved sample production pattern is always mode in medium size. It the buyer wants different size. We have for grade the dimension of the garment. It many are S, L, MX, XZ, XXL. It means grading to separate the garments according to size.

Cartooning: After packing is inspecting the garments are further packed in carton mode to hard paper. It is done for the case of handling and for the protection during exporting.

Sending to Buyer: It the garments are ok is send to the buyer. Main sections in garment: There are two sections in a garment.

Those are: i) Production oriented section ii) Commercial section Different sections of production: There are mainly 4 sections in garment manufacturing.

They are: a) Sample section b) Cutting section c) Sewing section d) Finishing section Euro Cad Technology: Euro CAD Creative is the complete CAD solution for apparel industry, providing fast and accurate support for the entire preparation of a new garment, from simple design to production optimization.

Euro CAD Creative is delivered as a package containing the PC station and the three major software applications: Euro CAD Pattern Designer, Euro CAD Spread &Cut Planner and Euro CAD Automaker. Please check the technical data sheet of each individual application to find more Euro CAD Creative working station can be used as a stand-alone design station or integrated in a local network, offering a large flexibility to perfectly fit any user requirements.

For input and output, Euro CAD Creative can work with a wide range of plotters and digitizers and can import directly files from Gerber, Lectra and Assyst native format and also from DXF-AAMA files.

The main software applications Euro CAD package are: Euro CAD Pattern Designer | Euro CAD Spread &Cut Planner | Euro CAD Automarker

Pattern Design: Automatic grading and the interactive grading functions allows the previous experience to be stored in grading rules and easily applied to the new products. Euro CAD Pattern Designer is based on Bezier curves, but can also handle complex. The interface has a very different approach compared to other CAD applications, because is built to be extremely user friendly, according to the latest software standards. The average time for a new user to learn the application is less than a week.

Grading: After the patterns were digitized, the operator introduces in the computer the grading rules for each piece, using the dimensions from the product's specification sheet, sent by the client. However, automatically grading methods may be used, based on the grading rules previously stored on your computer. Grading is done easily and with high accuracy. Euro CAD has one of the fastest and most accurate grading methods. The graded sizes can be simultaneously displayed on the computer screen and can be aligned in order to be checked in various ways. According to the product complexity, grading may take 10 to 20 minutes. When using the Assistant module, the grading can be done in seconds completely automatic.

Checking and Modifying: All patterns can be automatically checked for problems concerning the seam line length, the matching of notches and the geometrical shapes correspondence. Patterns can be displayed and checked folded or unfolded, with or without seam allowance, with the darts closed or opened. All measurements are stored by the program in a special table called watcher. This watcher is a unique tool, very useful because it allows the user to supervise the changes on all the sizes of a piece as they happen, while modifications or grading are done.

Cut and lay planning: In the Euro CAD Spread &Cut Planner application, the operator sets the quantity of garments ordered by the client for each model, size and fabric, and some general settings regarding cutting: the length of the spreading table, the maximum number of sheets in the lay and the fabric width.

The Euro CAD Spread &Cut Planner application can automatically generate the most efficient plan for size grouping and distribution on markers, so a minimal number of markers and lays are needed to obtain the ordered quantities. This automatic operation takes only few seconds to complete. The user may choose among several automatic strategies of lay planning, as well as manual or semiautomatic methods, so the best results are obtained every time.

Automatic marker making: Euro CAD stepped over border where the automatic nesting is better than the manual nesting, both on speed and efficiency. Euro CAD Automaker is based on state of the art technology and algorithms that will provide excellent nesting results in record time. It can run full automatic nesting for one individual marker or work continuously for a list of markers, with no human intervention required. The usual time needed for an average marker of 8 m is about 3-5 minutes.

The average results in terms of speed and efficiency are considerably higher than manual nesting.

Euro CAD Automaker can perform full automatic nesting on simple, folded or tubular fabrics, with or without plaids, stripes or textures, with specific widths and contractions, according to each piece specifications and restrictions.

Marker and patterns output to plotter for manual cutting: Euro CAD applications can output the patterns and markers in all major industry standards: DXFAAMA, HPGL-PLT, ISO-CUT and RS274D. A large variety of plotters and cutters are offered with Euro CAD software package, both pen plotters and inkjet plotters. Some of the pen plotters can also be used as cutters, allowing the user to cut stock paper patterns.

Export for CNC Cutters: The markers can be directly sent to an automatic CNC cutter. Euro CAD system is compatible with most of the automatic cutting machines. The program automatically calculates the optimal cut path in order to minimize the cutting time and to increase the cutting accuracy. Special functions are available for customizing the cutting procedure, depending on each type of fabric.

A simple garment: Measurement of T-shirt:

• Length ………………….. 61 cm • Chest …………………… 44 cm • Across shoulder …………. 37.9 cm • Across front ……………... 34.4 cm • Across back ………………35.4 cm • Sleeve length …………… 20.5 cm • Sleeve side length ……… 10.1 cm • Neck width seam ………..17.5 cm • Front neck depth ……….. 8 cm • Back neck depth ………. 2 cm • ½ neck opening …………30 cm • Shoulder slope …………..3.3 cm • Shoulder drop …………….1 cm Use of machine:

• Shoulder join = Over-lock machine.

• Rip tack = Plain machine.

• Sleeve ham = Flat lock machine.

• Sleeve join = Over-lock machine.

• Side join = Over-lock machine.

• Level attach = Plain machine.

With A simple T-Shirt & pattern Task-2.2 Ensure that notches and seam alignment for all sizes of grades are accurate: Methods of grading There are three basic methods of grading: cut and spread, pattern shifting, and computer grading. No one method is technically superior and all are equally capable of producing a correct grade.

Pattern Grading: Grading is the process used for creating sized patterns. There are certain proportional rules and set increments that form the basis of grading. These rules are set on the basis of analysis on body measurements of the general population. The clothing firms also help in pattern grading using the specifications provided by the apparel manufacturers and some of them also assist the manufacturers in establishing specifications for their product.

Cut-and-spread method: The easiest method, which is the basis of the other two methods, is to cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a specific amount to grade up, or overlap them to grade down. No special training or tools are required—just scissors, a pencil, tape, and a ruler that breaks 1 in. down to 1/64.

Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting is the process of increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by moving it a measured distance up and down and left and right, using a specially designed ruler and redrawing the outline, to produce the same results as the cut-and-spread method.The most recent development, computer grading, is the fastest method, but tends to be an investment only larger manufacturers can afford. However, sophisticated home computer software is becoming affordable.

Pattern vs. body measurements: The first step in any grading exercise is to accurately measure your base pattern. Sometimes you can find the key measurements you need (bust, waist, and hip) on the pattern envelope. Or you can measure the pattern itself.

Establish the grade: Once we have the bust, waist, and hip measurements from both the pattern and your body, you can address the basic grading dilemma: "How much do I grade up if the pattern is too small? Or, if it's too big, then how much do I grade down?" To establish the overall grade, or the total amount needed to

make the pattern larger or smaller, simply calculate the difference between the pattern and the body measurements. There are two types of overall grades: an even grade and an uneven grade.

Four ways to address an uneven grade: When we have an even grade, the process of grading is straightforward. Home sewers and dressmakers often, however, encounter uneven grades, when, for example, a dress needs to be graded up 2 in. at the bust, but 4 in. at the hip. If the grade is uneven, there are four ways to use grading to alter the pattern: 1. If the grade is uneven and you're sizing up, then you can use an even grade equal to the value of the largest measurement difference. If ware sizing down, then use an even grade equal to the value of the smallest difference. This will get the pattern close to the general size you need, then we can make minor adjustments as needed.

2. My favorite method allows for a more exact fit and is the best way to address fit problems for pearor triangle-shaped women. Just separate the pattern at the waist, and grade the top and bottom individually. Then rejoin the pattern, and blend the new lines at the waistline.

3. We can address an uneven grade based solely on the difference between the bust measurement of the pattern and the body. Because the bust is the hardest part of the body to fit, many patternmakers evenly grade the pattern to fit the bust, then alter as necessary at the waist and hip.

4. This method is specific to a common grading challenge that occurs when a body has changed in width or height, but not both. With a client who's gained weight, for example, just grade for circumference and forget about grading for length. Or for a teenage daughter who's grown 6 in. taller but hasn't filled out otherwise, ignore circumference and only grade for length.

If the differences between these measurements aren't equal, then it's an uneven grade. This changes the shape of a garment, as well as its size, so strictly speaking, uneven grading isn't really grading.

"Uneven grade" is synonymous with "pattern alteration." An even grade is the type of grade I will discuss because it's straightforward and easy to understand. Once you master the even grade, applying the methods to the uneven grade is the next step. See Four ways to address an uneven grade for more information.

Putting it all together: Once you've determined that you have an even grade, the actual mechanics of cut-and-spread grading are easy (see The cut-and-spread method for detailed instructions). Basically, you will use your measurements to do some easy calculations, create the cut lines on your pattern, then spread/overlap at each cut line the calculated amount. I've listed the necessary formulas in the grading chart, as well as pre-calculated values (no math needed) for three different overall grades (1 in., 1-1/2 in., and 2 in.).

The cut-and-spread method can even be used when grading large amounts up or down, for example a size 4 to a size 18. The large gaps at the cut lines do tend to be a little awkward, so I recommend grading incrementally instead (first grade the size 4 to a size 12 and then the size 12 to a size 18).

Insider tip industry secrets and know-how: There are no standard sizes in the garment or pattern industry. Each manufacturer sets its own base pattern measurements and grading con-venations based on a specific customer base.

Size-to-size grades for patterns or garments usually differ within a company's product line. Smaller grades, 3/4 or 1 in., are associated with smaller numerical pattern or garment sizes. That is, a size 4 may only be graded down 3/4 in. to produce a size 2. Intermediate grades, 1-1/2 or 2 in., are typical of middle numerical sizes. Larger grades, 3 in. or more, separate larger sizes. This is why one company's size 8 can be different from another's (i.e., different base pattern measures) and why the difference between a size 8 and 10 vary from one company to the next.

Task-3 Use pattern construction tools, equipment and technology with safety and confidence Task-3.1 Produce neat, accurate patterns with smooth-cut edges: Cutting Department: Cutting department is the one which plays a key role in production. It is the beginning of the production. So the cutting has the most efficient professionals working in it .The cutting department should work as fast as possible because the more the unloading of bundles can take place the more the production can take place.

Cutting section involves spreading of the pile of fabric, cutting of the pile, snickering, pinning and quality check.

Hand tools: Each tool should be market with an identity symbol and transported in a carrying case. Tools may be purchased from apparel supply houses, art stores, department stores, and yardage stores. Specialized tools, such as rabbit punch used to punch holes, are generally supplied by the manufacturer.

1. Straight pins: • Dressmaker silk for draping and fitting.

2. Scissors: • Paper scissors. •

Fabric scissors.

Scissors 3. Pencils and pens: • Mechanical pencil and sharpened lead for pattern work.

•

Red and blue colored pencils to identify pattern changes. Black , green, red, and blue felt tip pens for pattern information

4. Rulers: • Flex general rule 1/2 12inch(very accurate) •

36inch ruler

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18*2inch plastic rule (flexible for measuring curves)

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Tailors square-24*14inch metal ruler with two arms forming a 90 degree angle that measures, rules, and squares simultaneously

•

Triangle with measurements to square lines.

ruler 6. Curve rules:

•

French curve, deign 17 is one of several curves used for shaping armhole and neckline.

•

Hip curve rule, shapes hipline, hem, apes vary from curve, blends and shape armhole necklines.

Curve rules 5. Thread Cutter:

Cutter

8. Measurement tap: Tap

9. Knives: Knives without handles are used to remove stitching.

Knives 10. Hammers: Inappropriate items are used for hammering seams on garments such as ball peen hammers and wrenches.

Hammer

Automatic tools:

 Are employees who operate powder-actuated tools trained in their use and required to carry a valid operator's card.  Is each powder-actuated tool stored in its own locked container when not being used

 Are powder-actuated tools left unloaded until they are ready to be used.  Are powder-actuated tools inspected for obstructions or defects each day before use.  Do powder-actuated tool operators have and use appropriate PPE such as hard hats, safety goggles, safety shoes and ear protectors.

Machines Used in Cutting Department: • • • • •

Automatic-laser cloth-cutting machine Water jet Cutting Band Knife -Cutting Machines Straight Knife- Cutting Machine Die Cutting Machines Cutting section is the critical department. Only highly skilled operators are need to be taken. In this, department expertise planning is needed to improve the efficiency in making and suggesting the pattern of the fabrics which basically improves in the reduction of fabric wastage.

Advantage of Straight knife

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

It is relatively cheap It is easy to transfer It can be used to cut high layer of fabric It can cut a higher degree of angle than round knife It can be used to cut 10” layer of fabric.

It can cut fabric quickly There is an attachment in the machine to recharge the knife It can cut fabric at any angle.

Advantage of Band knife:

1.

2.

3.

4.

Very fine and accurate cutter Smaller parts can be cut easily It can cut fabric at any angle

Less risk of accident Cutting: Die Cutter: 1. Mainly used for mass production of slow change items.

2. Dies having the exact shape of the garment pieces.

3. Some dies are sued over a long period.

Advantages of Die Cutter:

1. Very accurate and excellent for small components.

2. Fabric can be cut in a short time.

3. It is much better for the knitted fabric Advantage of Automatic-laser cloth-cutting machine: 1. The machine adopts computer software automatic control system integration, 2. automatic transmitting materials, 3. Automatic feed, 4. Automatic cutting.

5. DSP chips, 6. Don’t need worker to manage, 7. Save time, money and staff.

8. Only need one person to operate.

Advantages of Water jet Cutting: No Heat Affected Zone There are many advantages of water jet cutting. As opposed to flame, plasma & laser cutting, water jet and abrasive jet cutting produce no heat affected zone to work harden the cut edges. Therefore we are able to cut various metals, plastics and other materials without melting, distorting or warping them.

Incredible Precision: Water jet/Abrasive jet Cutting gives us a way to routinely cut precision parts with tolerances as close as Âą 0.005" and better when required. Cutting is controlled by a computer and special software which follows profiles/part geometry designed using Computer Aided Design (CAD) software.

A cutting system is suitable in a particular situation: There are different types of cutting system but a cutting system is suitable in a particular situation. for example Sensor is very simple equipment for cutting fabric but it is very good for a small amount of fabric cutting for an operator who do not know how operate the electrical equipment. On the other hand it does not need high skilled person and electricity. The investment cost is also less. So we can not ignore it.

Straight knife is a manually operated electric knife and it is suitable for a large amount of fabric. It can cut fabric with a high speed and at any angle. A person can learn the operation of the equipment in a short time. In 90% clothing manufacturing factory of Bangladesh use this equipment. The investment cost is low and operator is available. So it is good equipment in developing country like Bangladesh.

Computer control cutting knife is very good to cut fabric accurately. But the investment cost is high and skilled operator is not available in many situations. On the other hand where quality is the main thing and skilled operator is available and company has the ability to invest a high amount to cut fabric accurately then Computer controlled cutting knife is best.

From the above research we can come in a decision that at fast we have to understand the situating than according to the situation we should set up the cutting system.

Task-3.2 Maintain a safe working environment at all times: Self-Inspection Scope: My self-inspections should cover safety and health issues in the following areas: Processing, Receiving, Shipping and Storage :Equipment, job planning, layout, heights, floor loads, projection of materials, material storage methods, training for material handling equipment.

handling and

Building and Grounds Conditions: Floors, walls, ceilings, exits, stairs, walkways, ramps, platforms, driveways, aisles.

Housekeeping Program: Waste disposal, tools, objects, materials, leakage and spillage, cleaning methods, schedules, work areas, remote areas, storage areas.

Electricity: Equipment, switches, breakers, fuses, switch-boxes, junctions, special fixtures, circuits, insulation, extensions, tools, motors, grounding, national electric code compliance.

Lighting: Type, intensity, controls, conditions, diffusion, location, glare and shadow control.

Heating and Ventilation: Type, effectiveness, temperature, humidity, controls, natural and artificial ventilation and exhausting.

Machinery :Points of operation, flywheels, gears, shafts, pulleys, key ways, belts, couplings, sprockets, chains, frames, controls, lighting for tools and equipment, brakes, exhausting, feeding, oiling, adjusting, maintenance, lockout/tagout, grounding, work space, location, purchasing standards.

Personnel :Training, including hazard identification training; experience; methods of checking machines before use; type of clothing; PPE; use of guards; tool storage; work practices; methods for cleaning, oiling, or adjusting machinery.

Hand and Power Tools :Purchasing standards, inspection, storage, repair, types, maintenance, grounding, use and handling.

Chemicals: Storage, handling, transportation, spills, disposals, amounts used, labeling, toxicity or other harmful effects, warning signs, supervision, training, protective clothing and equipment, hazard communication requirements.

Fire Prevention:Extinguishers, alarms, sprinklers, smoking rules, exits, personnel assigned, separation of flammable materials and dangerous operations, explosion-proof fixtures in hazardous locations, waste disposal and training of personnel.

Maintenance: Provide regular and preventive maintenance on all equipment used at the worksite, recording all work performed on the machinery and by training personnel on the proper care and servicing of the equipment.

PPE:Type, size, maintenance, repair, age, storage, assignment of responsibility, purchasing methods, standards observed, training in care and use, rules of use, method of assignment.

Transportation: Motor vehicle safety, seat belts, vehicle maintenance, safe driver programs.

First Aid Program/Supplies: Medical care facilities locations, posted emergency phone numbers, accessible first aid kits.

Evacuation Plan: Establish and practice procedures for an emergency evacuation, e.g., fire, chemical/biological incidents, bomb threat; include escape procedures and routes, critical plant operations, employee accounting following an evacuation, rescue and medical duties and ways to report emergencies.

Self-Inspection Checklists: These checklists are by no means all-inclusive. We should add to them or delete items that do not apply to your business; however, carefully consider each item and then make our decision. We should refer to standards for specific guidance that may apply to our work situation.

Safety First: Our tutorials utilize methods, equipment and tools that can be dangerous. Never proceed with a tutorial without first carefully reviewing and understanding all of the instructions that accompany the equipment, tools or any other product used in the project, as well as providing yourself a safe working environment. Be aware of your own limitations and factor in your own good judgment and common sense.

Eye Safety is No Accident: Sewanee intends our tutorials to be reliable guides, but realizes working conditions, equipment, skill level, and safety issues can vary greatly. As a result, SewNeau does not guarantee the applicability, completeness, or accuracy of the information and does not assume responsibility for the results, or any damages, injuries or losses that occur as a result of using the information provided herein.

Seamstress, alterations, tailoring, clothing repair, dressmaking • Serving Cleveland Ohio women & men since.

Sewing Tips for Better and More Consistent Results: Easy-to-follow, Step-by-step Instructions Avoid the “Homemade Look” when Sewing or Altering Clothes Homemade clothing does not have to look homemade, yet so often, talented amateurs are disappointed with their results. The following tips and suggestions are intended to help even the beginner overcome the "Homemade" look.

Building on good habits and breaking bad habits are the key to better looking clothes that you made yourself.

The basics we will need: 1. Work Area 2. Sewing Machine 3. Sewing Machine Needles 4. Iron, Ironing Surface & Pressing 5. Hand Tools & Accessories 6. Pattern 7. Fabric & Notions 8. Attention to Detail, Patience

1.

Work Area:

Size - Our work surface should be as large as the work area can reasonably accommodate. It should be sturdy enough to support: your machine; the project; other accessories; and the weight of you leaning against it, without easily moving.

Standing - The work surface should be at elbow height. The wrists should be kept straight. The edges of the work surface should be rounded, or padded for comfort.

Sitting - The work surface should be approximately elbow height, permitting the wrists to be kept straight. The surface should be high enough to not confine your thighs, with sufficient room underneath to operate the sewing machine's pedal.

Chair - Our chair plays a critical role in establishing the proper sitting work height.

The chair itself should have adjustments for: 1. height, 2. seat tilt, and 3. backrest position. The back rest should be padded, with rounded edges, and be adjusted to support the lower back.

Lighting - (adapted from: www.osha.gov) Use adjustable task lighting to make it easier to see project.

General, overhead lighting should be even to eliminate shadows and glare. Artificial light affects color. Although natural, north light alone is usually not sufficient, having a work area with natural, north light available (to check color) is a real plus.

Safety - Never forget you are working with equipment and tools that can be dangerous. The potential for injury is not only to you, but others around you. Your work area should permit concentration on the task at hand. Keep distractions to a minimum.

2.

Sewing Machine:

Sewing m/c Buying One - A sewing machine can be a long-term investment. Ask family, friends and neighbors, who sew, for recommendations. Try-out the floor models. Once you decide, then shop price. Don't forget the Internet.

Quality- Quantity should guide we purchase decision. Buy the best machine we can afford for our current needs. Do not be tempted to buy features (including all those fancy stitches) that we will probably never use.

Size matters. We are buying a machine, not a piece of furniture! The work surface on most built-in machines is simply too small. A portable machine, in combination with a work table (discussed above) makes the best use of both.

Maintenance - A sewing machine (like your car) requires regular maintenance to keep it working correctly. The machine's manual will specify how often routine service should be performed. A wellmaintained, quality sewing machine can last decades.

Most machine settings are pre-set at the factory. If your machine begins to miss stitches, or make unusual noises, something may be wrong with it. Don't attempt self-repair beyond what your manual suggests. Have the machine checked and serviced by an authorized, qualified service center.

3. Sewing Machine Needles They are three basic considerations when buying sewing machine needles:

Needles I. Machine Specific - Even if you don't buy the manufacturer's brand, purchase replacements that are specifically made for your machine model.

II. Fabric & Task Specific - Not all needles work best for all fabric or tasks. The needle packages are labeled for their intended purpose. Use the correct one!

III. Planning Ahead - Have an extra pack, on hand, of the needles used most often. Needles have a tendency to break at the worst times. Changing one in the middle of a project is bad enough.

Having to make a trip to the store to buy them first is a real pain.

4. Iron an Ironing Surface & Pressing:

Care - Regardless of the brand or type you choose keep both the iron and ironing surface clean, checking them regularly for mysterious "gooey-stuff" that can ruin your fabric and your entire day.

Before we Begin - Be aware of the fabric’s reaction to ironing. Always test press a scrap piece of material and adjust the settings accordingly before pressing your garment. Fabric bolts are usually labeled with care instructions, which may reference ironing. Using de-mineralized (distilled) water will extend the life of your iron and reduce the risk of staining your fabrics.

Pressing: During Assembly: Unless directed otherwise by the pattern instructions press all seams open and flat on the inside.

After assembly: Final fitting and all adjustments, always press the entire garment, pressing on the inside.

Hand Tools & Other Accessories The seamstress or tailor may not wear a tool belt, but they do use hand tools regularly. Here's the short list of what we need and some suggestions to make them work.

Task-3.3 Construct accurate costing sheets and lay plans showing effective use of fabric and grading rules using appropriate software: Garment costing In order to achieving perfect garment costing, me most know about all the activities includes purchase of fiber, sewing, packing, transport, overhead etc and also about their costs. Procedures and risk factors, advocates fees, costing is deciding factor for fixing of prices the important thing to follow in all stages likes purchase production, marketing, sales etc.

Costing sheet: Stile no Product Fabric Thread Interlining Lavel Packing Other cost

Description T-shirt 100% cotton 60% polyester Fusible Woven Poly bag

Season Size Summer Season – Tk. cost- Tk. Conjamption – 1 gt 1.60 105 miter cotton 8.00

Total- raw material cost = 140 Production Time minute Spreading 3 Cutting 4 Sewing 8 Ironing 3 Inspection 4 Peaking 4 Transport Dyeing 20 Total =

5.00 12.00 8.00 2

Price every pined .20 .50 1.00 .25 .25 .30 2

Fixed 8 variables Total manufacturing cost of per price garment = 154 Tk. Profit 12% = 18.72 Gt v.t = 2.05 Sale price- per price –T-shirt = 174.77 = 176.77 Safe working practices:

Cost Tk. .60 2.00 8.00 .75 1.00 1.00

Tk. 13.00

Safe working practices are systems of work that are carried out in a safe manner for any given task.

Although most businesses use safe systems as a matter of course, it is best to record these and make sure they are communicated to your employees by giving them a copy of th recording during their training.

The best person to put together a safe working practice for a task is someone who has experience and competence in carrying out the task in question. This could well be yourself, as one of the reasons you are in business is because you are likely to be an expert in your area of work. Undoubtedly, you will also employ skilled personnel to carry out the tasks, who have certain levels of experience or competence.

Permits to work are written instructions detailing the correct procedure to follow for a specific task.

They help to ensure the safety of those carrying out the task, as verbal instructions can be misunderstood, forgotten or not passed on  Place of activity.  Piece of equipment.  Date and timescale for the activity.  Details of the authorizing person.  Any safety precautions, e.g. emergency stops activated.  That no additional work may be carried out, only what is stated on the permit to work.

Plain seam: 1. Cut two pieces of fabric from the pattern. Use as your pattern, the piece marked #l-seams. Align the long edge of the paper pattern with the lengthwise grain of the fabric, along the selvage edges.

2. Place right sides of the fabric together, matching the seam edges of the pieces that correspond to the seam to be sewn. Pin in place if necessary.

3. Using a 5/8" seam allowance, sew the fabric pieces together on the long end of the rectangle.

4. First press the seam flat and then press it open using the point of the iron to completely flatten the seam out.

See the sections-on pressing and pressing equipment.

Prepare three plain seams. Two of these will be used for the exercise on seam finishes. The other is to be turned in for grading.

Flat fell seam: 1. Prepare a plain seam using a 5/8" SA. 2. After pressing the seam open press both SA's in the same direction.

3. Trim the underneath SA only to 1/4".

4. Fold the untrimmed SA over the trimmed SA and pin or baste in place.

5. Top stitch the folded edge in place.

Seam finishes: This exercise is to be done on the seam edges of the two plain seams with the 5/8" seam allowances prepared previously.

Double edge stitch: 1. Begin as for single edge stitch.

2. Place a second row of machine stitching just inside the first row of stitching about l/16" away.

Clean finish: l. Begin as for single edge stitch.

2. Turn the edge of the seam to the inside along the row of stitching and press in place.

3. Top stitch the turned edge in place sewing through the seam allowance only.

Zigzag finish: 1. Begin as for single edge stitch.

2. Adjust the stitch length to between 3 and 4.

3. Adjust the stitch width to between 2 and 3.

4. Sew a row of zig zag stitching along the seam edge, placing the zig-zag stitch so that one stitch fall inside the row of edge stitching and the other falls just outside the seam edge.

Serge finish: l. Use a raw edge on any of the plain seams that you have just applied seam finishes to.

2. Apply a three thread serged finish ( in any color) right on the raw edge, making sure that you trim only the small threads off the raw edge.

Attaching gathers to another garment piece: This exercise will be done on the Size 8 bodice pieces and the dirndl skirt prepared previously.

1. Complete the bodice by stitching the shoulder and side seams using a 5/8" SA. Press seams open.

2. Using chalk mark the skirt off in quarters along the gathered edge.

3. Pull the button thread in the skirt up until the skirt width approximately matches the bodice waistline seam.

4. With RIGHT sides together pin the skirt to the bodice, matching: First quarter mark to the side seam. Half way mark to CF of the bodice. Third quarter mark to the second side seam.

5. Distribute the gathers evenly between pins. This is done by moving the gathers by hand, pin the gathers in place as you work. Make sure there are no gathers in the 5/8" SA at CB of the skirt. Check to see that you pin the bodice flat with the darts going towards CF or CB. Grading rules using: Normally for large scale garments production of any style needs different sizes to produce from a set of particular size of patterns, the patterns of different sizes are produced by using grade rule which is called grading.

This is the first step of production planning and if often finished after sample making. Once orders are in place, get our patterns and grading completed.

Our markers will determine the yield of fabric needed for your order. Once markers are complete, fabric can be ordered.

Sample # 01 (Part – 01) A Factory Production Plan (For Amount Scheduling)

Production Line

Buyer

Style

Item

Line A / F 01

Albera

10021

T Shirt

Line B / F 01 Line C / F 01 Line D / F 01 Line E / F 01

Albera

Albera

Albera

Rohon

10021

88972

88972

PP20

T Shirt T Shirt T Shirt Shirt

Order Quantity (Dozen) Month’s Production

January

Month’s Order

5000

Month’s Production Month’s Order

2500

Month’s Production Month’s Order

2500

Month’s Production Month’s Order

2500

Month’s Production Month’s Order

2500

February

March

2500

5000

5000

5000

10000

Grading: By following approved sample production pattern is always mode in medium size. It the buyer wants different size. We have for grade the dimension of the garment. It many are S, L, MX, XZ, XXL. It means grading to separate the garments according to size.

Relevant legislation: The Disability Act sets out the Victorian Government's responsibility in relation to people who have an intellectual disability. The Disability Services Branch of the Victorian DHS is responsible for implementing the aims and objectives. The Disability Act contains a list of objectives and principles that apply to all persons covered by the Act. Section 6 of the Act provides a list of principles and provisions that apply specifically to people who have an intellectual disability, which includes that: • People who have an intellectual disability have a capacity for physical, social, emotional and intellectual development and have the right to opportunities to develop and maintain skills and to participate in activities that enable them to achieve valued roles in the community; • Services for people who have an intellectual disability should be designed and provided in a manner that maximises opportunities for people living in residential institutions to live in community-based accommodation; • people who have an intellectual disability in a residential institution have the right to a high quality of care and development opportunities while they continue to reside in the institution; and • Services for people who have an intellectual disability should be designed and provided in a manner that ensures developmental opportunities exist to enable the realisation of their individual capacities, and that a particular disability service provider cannot exercise control over all or most aspects of the life of a person who has an intellectual disability.

Other relevant legislation includes the Guardianship and Administration. This focuses on the provisions found in the Disability Act relating to the Victorian Government’s responsibility in relation to people who have an intellectual disability. For more information about the Commonwealth and state Disability Services Acts in general.

Task-4 Evaluate own use of pattern construction Task-4.1 Evaluate own pattern construction skills and use of pattern construction equipment: Evaluate: We have learned:    

We are able to produce effective pattern.

We have learned clothing manufacturing and factory.

We have learned technology and equipment for pattern and garments manufacturing.

We have learn some important terms like Purchase Order, Invoice , Letter of credit that will be helpful for our future life and in other track of supply and procurement.  We know how to find out the cost of a finished garments or a product.  We know about various types of garments manufacturing process and have a good idea of the total process.  In the manufacturing process different types of process are used in a particular objective. We have learned about different types of process and found that every process is necessary in a particular situation. We will be able to select a system that is suitable in the specific situation.

We might do:  We are now conscious about pattern construction process.  We observe few manufacturing process and make a report on it. So we might observe many garments manufacturing process.  Purchasing and costing system is a grate term and we just know the simple method of purchasing and costing so we might describe it elaborately.

Use of pattern construction equipment: Apparel sample cutting equipment can be applied for apparel paper pattern cutting, marking & grading in sample making and short run production with high precision and efficiency. The main materials processed by apparel sample cutting equipment used in apparel are: paperboard, kraft paper, cardboard. Cutting equipment supports functions like cutting, half cutting, dotted line cutting, writing, etc Selection and Preparation of Patterns: In this study, we presented the patterns generated by participants in the first experiment on a neutral background. We used patterns generated on training tasks in the first study for training in the current experiment. Similarly, we used patterns from the testing phase of the first experiment for the testing phase of this study. We randomly selected 24 patterns from the training phrase (equally split between

the two task types). For the testing phase, we first sorted the original deminers according to their performance using the same procedure as the one described in the earlier section on Patterns and Pattern Creation Strategies. We then randomly picked, separately for the two Visual support conditions, 2 participants in the top performance quartile (High Performers) and 2 in the low performance quartile (Low Performers) for a total of 2 2 2 = 8 original deminers. These original deminers had each generated 6 patterns (3 for tasks with Mine with clutter, 3 for tasks with just Clutter). This provided us with a testing set of 8 6 = 48 unique patterns.

Even though all the patterns were unique, they were all generated based on the same smaller set of tasks (4 training, 6 testing). To increase diversity of the patterns experienced by the new participants, we randomly rotated and translated each of the patterns.

Patterns and Pattern Creation Strategies Next we take a qualitative look at the sensor head trajectories traced by four of our participants as well as the patterns they created. We will use the term “petals” to refer to the continuous arcs traced with a metal detector between two adjacent edge points. To evaluate whether pattern creation strategies influenced a definers’ success at correctly classifying targets, we first rank-ordered the participants (separately for each of the two Visual support conditions) based on their classification error rates (weighing false negatives a little higher than false positives) and their localization errors.

The sensor head trajectories and edge points created by the highest and lowest performers in each of the two visual support conditions are shown.

Research Project: The aim of this paper is to enable the student to participate in research, analysis, conclusion drawing and report findings in an appropriate format. The project is in two parts. Firstly, students develop a research proposal in an area relevant to fashion. Secondly, this proposal forms the basis of the research project, in which the student will undertake the approved project and report the findings from the investigation in an approved format.

Satisfactory Completion: Every candidate for the degree of Bachelor of Fashion (Design and Technology) is required to follow to the satisfaction of the Board of Studies, a programme of study for a minimum period of three years.

Each year of study comprises two 17-week semesters.

The overall programme of study for every candidate requires 360 credits for successful completion of the degree.

Individual papers may have specific pre-requisites or other knowledge/skill requirements, which must be satisfied by all students.

Candidates may withdraw without penalty, provided they do so before the approved withdrawal date for the programme. Refunds and other financial arrangements attached to the SIT Zero Fees Scheme are detailed on the application form, and in the SIT Student Handbook and Policies and Procedures Manual of the QMS. In order to be awarded the Bachelor of Fashion (Design and Technology), the student will have been credited with all required papers and electives as specified in the degree schedule.

Procedures

that

are

followed

with

every

pattern

that

goes

through

grading:

As a pattern enters the grading room, certain tasks should be performed prior to the grading process.

Its arrival should be logged as part of a permanent record for future reference. The side seams should be checked for equal length. Patterns should be checked against preliminary specifications and these should be cross referenced against a garment made by the pattern room from the sample pattern.

We certainly agree that there needs to be standardized processes as I've described ad nauseum before.

While it would have been remiss for this author to have failed to mention the need of pattern checking, the pattern checking should happen well before it ever gets to the pattern grader. Just as a pattern maker cannot change a detail without a designer's approval, a pattern grader cannot change a detail without getting the pattern maker's approval. Besides, pattern checking isn't their job. Pattern grading is not pattern making. The author also mentions the need of a standardized sizing profile for the company. This varies a great deal and it is constantly evolving and changing according to market conditions. As a young company, you don't know hard numbers at the outset, you can't, it depends on who ends up buying your stuff. Who you envision buying your stuff and who actually does are two different things. As you go along, you may have to adjust your sizing. When you're first starting out, you may not really know either, that's why a lot of people copy the apparent sizing strategies of the companies they'd like to compete with.

Conclusion We have analysis the project and found the following result. We have come in a decision that all equipment or method is perfect in a particular situation. After examining the result we found that out decision is perfect and some factory who are enough ability to invest have setup a computer controlled cutting knife and who are poor investment set up a manually operated cutting knife.

We have learned a purchasing and costing system and many clothing manufacturing factory of Bangladesh is using the system. So we will be able to do the work effectively.

This project demonstrates that there is ample room for ergonomic improvements in the clothing industry. We need to continue to identify problems and, more importantly, implement solutions to reduce the risk of injuries in situations where we know problems exist.

But it is disadvantages are so little to it is advantages. Above all this is a promising sector in our country to build our properly. We should to co- operate to build this sector properly in our country and then we will be the best in the world.

BIBLIOGRAPHY Reference book: 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Pattern Construction – A.J. Khaled Germents And Technology – M A Kasam Introduction To Clothing Production Managements-A.J. Chuter Introduction To Clothing Manufacture- Gerry Cooklin The Technology Of Clothing Manufacture- Harold Carr & Barbara Latham

Web sites: 1. http://articles.textileclass.com 2. www.businessdictionary.com 3. www.mytextileebook.blogspot.com 4. www.pdffinder.com

5. www.E how .org Practical campus By- Sikder Textile (Naraingong).

Class lecture By- Jannatun Nahar.

Library Work By- SCTFT Library.