GRAZE:Layout 1
19/3/14
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Graze Bar & Chophouse 63 Queen Square, Bristol BS1 4JZ. Tel: 0117 927 6706
REVIEW
A GEM IN THE QUEEN’S CROWN W hen you see a Bath Ales sign attached to a pub, you know that you’re walking into a fine establishment with a great selection of brews and freshly cooked food – something that is synonymous with the independent Warmley-based brewery empire. Bath Ales pubs are well known for offering something special for locals, drinkers and foodies alike, and their high standards have made them well respected in Bath and Bristol. Always looking to offer their quality and individuality to a wider audience, Bath Ales has recently opened two new eateries in Colston Hall – the Colston St Bar and Kitchen on the ground floor, serving food all day from a transatlantic-inspired menu, along with great coffee and homemade cakes; and Gordito, a charcuterie restaurant and bar on the upper ground floor serving cured meats and cheeses and complementary wines. With these shiny new additions to Bristol, Bath Ales felt it was only right to give the Graze Bar and Chophouse on Queen Square a new look to show off too. First opened in November 2009, the restaurant was the original of the successful Graze concept – with namesake venues subsequently opened in Cirencester and Bath. After closing for a month of refurbishment work, we were keen to check out the changes when it reopened – and were not disappointed. There has been a complete overhaul of the kitchen and seating areas have been improved – new bar stools are located by the kitchen to provide additional seating, while comfortable banquettes still dominate throughout the brasserie. The kitchen has also been updated, with a Josper oven at its heart, fuelled by charcoal and used to barbecue prime cuts of steak. The kitchen is centre stage, so you can watch the chefs hard at work as you eat. As well as cosmetic changes, the menu has been refreshed too, to include delicacies such as duck hearts on toast with dates and port sauce and smoked haddock kedgeree, cockles and a poached egg. This is a fresh and sophisticated take on the traditional British pub. Inspired by bars and chophouses in London and New York, the interior of Graze boasts stylish bespoke furniture, creative lighting schemes and some quirky features – including the huge, white cow’s head mount above the kitchen. On a chilly, blustery evening, the warm welcome, happy buzz of diners, cosy candlelit setting and tantalising smells from the kitchen were enough to lift our spirits. There is a friendly, relaxed atmosphere here and the menu is designed in such a way to allow you to eat anything you fancy, from a light lunch or snack such as mushrooms and kidneys on toast, to a three or fourcourse meal with fine wines.
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Graze serves Bath Ales beers along with an eclectic range of continental beers, premium spirits, interesting wines and soft drinks. Nick supped on a pint of his favourite local tipple – the Bath Ales Bounders cider, while I enjoying a crisp glass of the house white as we perused the starters and tucked into the complimentary crusty warm bread and butter. All the dishes sounded tempting, with something to suit most tastes, from green Sicilian olives (£3.50) to scallops, chorizo, white beans and sauce vierge (£8.95). I chose the cep mushroom and leek risotto (£5) from the specials menu, which was served with sweet candied walnut and pesto. This rich, nutty treat was made even more special by the gooey parmesan melted on top. Nick opted for the chicken liver pâté, which was smooth and creamy and perfectly complemented by the sweet plum chutney and brioche (£7.25), all stylishly served on a slate. Ingredients are sourced locally, we are told by the manager, so food miles are kept to a minimum. On top of this, all of the meat is sourced from top quality British producers, with high standards of animal welfare. It is obvious that the focus here is on quality and individuality. And this was perfectly demonstrated in the juicy 225g dry aged sirloin steak (£19.95) that Nick ordered for the main course. An excellent cut of meat and one of the best steaks he’s ever tasted, he commented. The steaks are served with chips and salad and you can choose a sauce or butter to accompany it for an extra £1.50. Be warned however, the portions are generous, so you might not have room for any of the delicious sides on offer including Pale Ale onion rings, portobello mushrooms or gruyère creamed spinach – as we discovered. I had the macaroni cheese with spinach and mushroom (£8.95), and while every mouthful tasted deliciously cheesy (the strong gruyere was heavenly), I admit I felt defeated halfway through the dish. After a rest – and in the interest of research – we thought it only right to sample something sweet from the dessert menu, so I enjoyed the lighter choice of coffee and petits fours – which included popcorn drizzled in caramel, a dark chocolate truffle, mini cinnamon madeleine and fruity jelly square – and Nick happily devoured a white chocolate and clotted cream panna cotta, served with raspberries and buttery, almond shortbread. On the busy Thursday evening that we were there, tables were full of couples, friends and families dining and drinking together. People were coming and going all evening – this is a social hub with a great atmosphere. And as the weather gets nicer, it is one of the best al fresco dining options in the city centre. ■ SC
As well as cosmetic changes, the menu has been refreshed too, to include delicacies such as duck hearts on toast with dates and port sauce
56 THE BRISTOL MAGAZINE
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APRIL 2014
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