June 2, 2016 • mccsokinawa.com
Mike Daley
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isible from within the focal point of Sêfâ Utaki, in Chinen, is a tiny island with a circumference of only 8 km. This tiny isle is Kudaka—the most sacred island in the prefecture. According to folklore, Kudaka was believed to not only be the first Ryukyu Island the goddess Amamikiyo created, but one she created to mirror the beauty of heaven. To this day, certain parts of the island are forbidden to men, and others can only be entered by the highest ranking noro priestesses. In the center of the island lies a circular clearing where it is believed the gods subsequently descended. Once every 12 years a ceremony called Izaiho is performed by priestesses to honor these gods. Not all areas of Kudaka are forbidden however, and many areas are a different kind of “heaven on earth.” After a 15-minute ride on an express ferry (¥1,410 roundtrip), visitors can either choose to
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rent a bicycle (a wise choice) or hike to one of several beautiful beaches. A long, straight dirt road, which leads to the other side of the isle called Kabêru, offers a good warm-up with a breathtaking view greeting finishers. From there, travelers can leisurely pedal (or walk) back towards the port, stopping at Uppama Beach (which still has star sand), Shimâshi Beach, Ishikihama, Tachihama, Ichajikihama and many more—just remember to pack a lunch and plenty of water. Not restricted to just beautiful beaches and breathtaking scenery, Kudaka Island also features a bit of “strange but true.” The island is renowned for harvesting one of the strangest ingredients you’ll probably ever see—the prime component of irabu jiru or sea snake soup. True Okinawan irabu jiru uses specially prepared sea snake—delicately dried and smoked over a period of weeks. Today, Kudaka Island still special-
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"...the most sacred island in the prefecture." izes in the process, just as it has since the 16th century. The sea snakes are a prized commodity, as they can only be gathered when they return to land to lay their eggs. One word of warning, however—the whole island of Kudaka is considered holy ground, so loud voices and music, disrespectful behavior and, of course, littering is severely frowned upon. For our more in-depth coverage about Kudaka Island and sea snake soup, pick up a copy of our June issue of Okinawa Living Magazine.
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