Vogue Patterns Magazine October/November 2012 Sampler

S E W I N G TODAY ’S

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2012

THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE

SAMPLER SAMPLER SAMPLER SAMPLER

12 THE INVISIBLE ZIPPER Insert an invisible zipper perfectly.

18 ZIPPERED POCKETS Add this inconspicuous pocket almost anywhere.

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CONTENTS

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28 PLAYING WITH PAINTSTIKS Create colorful fabric designs.

46 STRIPE-SMART SEWING Working with stripe fabrics.

30 TRIMMING A CARDIGAN JACKET Part three of the series…

Behind the Seams® with Claire Schaeffer.

52 FREE PROJECT: DESIGNER LACE TOP Make it on your own.

20 RECYCLED COUTURE Eco wise…combine a men’s lumberjack shirt with a Vogue pattern and create couture fashion.

36 SEWING CLOTHES YOU WILL LOVE TO WEAR Dressing the body you have to create the body you want.

26 PRESSING ISSUES Investing in an ironing press.

42 THE LEGACY OF LACE A history.

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58 BOOKREVIEW: OVERDRESSED The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion.

60 FIESTA GOWN A behind the scenes look at San Antonio’s annual celebration.

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64 ONE DRESS…FOUR FABULOUS LOOKS Extending your fashion options.

66 DESIGNER VIEWS Fall 2012 designer collection.

IN EVERY ISSUE 4

MAILBOX

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

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WHAT ARE YOU SEWING

10 GREAT GIVEAWAYS 15 WEB WATCH

78 FALL’S EASY OPTIONS Vogue’s easy patterns collection.

88 BODY MEASUREMENT CHARTS

86 IT’S A WINTER WRAP A stunning new wardrobe for the season.

94 CROSSWORD

90 GUIDE TO PATTERN AND FABRIC REQUIREMENTS 96 THREAD TALES

October/November 2012

ON THE COVER Issey Miyake delivers a graphic message with his giant check wool coat, V1320.

Earrings and bracelet: Pat Areias. Gloves: Carolina Amato.

Hair and makeup

by Joseph Boggess.

Photographed by Brian Kraus.

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fashionremedy

Recycled Couture What do you get when you combine a men’s lumberjack shirt, a designer Vogue pattern, creativity, frugality, and the urge to recycle? We challenged designer Kathryn Brenne and she delivered the result to us—a stylish women’s jacket with a distinctive British feel.

Re Renew 20

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by Kathryn Brenne THE LUMBERJACK SHIRT DETAILS Often a recycling project starts with a garment in a larger size because it provides ample yardage for cutting new pieces. But this men’s shirt, in a size small, has the unusual feature of raglan sleeves and they fit a women’s size 12 shoulders.

These sleeves cried out to be featured in the new jacket. The front facing would also prove useful for an inventive back collar treatment. The weight of the plaid fabric is just heavy enough for a lightweight jacket.

THE DESIGNER VOGUE PATTERN Vintage Vogue V8686 is a sleek V8686 dress featuring a funnel neckline and a seven-eighths raglan sleeve, with bust shaping provided by a neckline dart and gathers at the waistline. The upper back bodice ORIGINAL and sleeve are combined into one 1933 DESIGN DESSIN ORIGINAL DE 1933 piece, transitioning into a yoke.

Where the yoke joins the sleeve, the effect is a hybrid dolman/raglan sleeve.

The dress can be worn with or without a separate belted peplum.

By attaching the peplum to the bodice and omitting the skirt, the new garment is a top. With a few more pattern alterations, the back closure is gone, a front closure appears and now we have a jacket.

Before: Shirt Front

Before: Shirt Back

PATTERN/PATRON SIZE / TAILLE

VOGUE

®

PAT T E R N S

A A

B

Pattern source courtesy of “The Rali Burleson Pattern Collection” – Vintage Vogue contest winner.

Patron utilisé avec la permission de “The Rali Burleson Pattern Collection”, gagneur du concours Vintage Vogue.

PATTERN ALTERATIONS A front button closure requires the addition of an extension and a front facing. To draft the front facing pattern, trace a copy of the bodice front with the dart pinned closed. Draw a line, 4" from the finished edge, curving up towards the shoulder point and add seam allowance.

The back button closure is not needed, so place the original center back on the fold and eliminate the extension. Make copies of both the front and back peplum pattern pieces to allow cutting in a single layer. To convert this closefitting dress pattern to a jacket pattern, add a ½" at the waist side seams, tapering to nothing at the (continued on page 22)

VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2012

A

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royal pageantry

BEHIND THE SEAMS OF A

FIESTA GOWN

f

iesta San Antonio is an annual celebration of the city’s heritage, culture, and spirit, dating back to 1891.

The elaborate gowns worn in the Royal Court parade are a highlight of the 10-day celebration during the last week of April.

The signature feature of a Fiesta gown is a massive train, over 10 feet long. Because a train can weigh more than 50 pounds, the structure of the gown itself must be engineered to support the weight. The gowns themselves can weigh over 20 pounds, so this is serious business.

The process begins in August, with a phone call asking, “Are you ready to come and see what we have this year?” We study the images, planning how to

by Mechiel Whitmore

bring these beautiful artists’ images to life. The search for fabrics begins immediately; inquiries are made from coast to coast and around the world. Hundreds of meters of rhinestone chain in varying sizes is ordered. Zwarovski crystal stones and myriad glass beads are on their way before the first piece of fabric is cut.

A huge 50-yard roll of crinoline is lifted onto the 12-foot table to begin the arduous task of tracing all the pieces of the gown and train. Every piece is marked and then cut, sometimes by climbing on the table. A color is assigned to each piece, paintby-number style. The combination of appliqué and reverse appliqué requires careful planning to avoid having too many layers of fabric in any one place.

Some features of the design are three dimensional, adding to the complexity.

By the time of the first fitting, the design motifs are marked on the fabric, displaying an undecorated rendition of the art. Intricate details are hand drawn, although we sometimes use photocopiers. We can change the size of the design elements progressively by adjusting the copy scale and then tracing onto crinoline. As we work through fashion and design decisions, excitement begins to build.

Next, the dress is made with the fashion fabric, and the sturdy pattern dress (made from trigger, heavy muslin, or heavy interfacing) becomes the underlining. Another strong layer for the bodice, called the foundation, is constructed with boning and a very snug fit to support the structure. With the lining added towards the end, the bodice consists of three layers. Even with many years’ experience, I still get a knot in my stomach when I get ready to make the first cut in a very expensive or rare fabric. I announce, “I hope this is right!” and proceed to cut.

Every time a client comes for a fitting, the in-progress gown and train are assembled like a puzzle to review progress, and then disassembled to continue work. Rhinestone chain is lightly glued, and then hand sewn into place following every line of the design, leaving no exposed raw edges of fabric. Large crystal jewels and beads are hand sewn into the pieces to sparkle and glisten under the spotlights. The artistry and talent of the beadwork bring depth and character to these amazing designs. (continued on page 62)

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VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2012

VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2012

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ONE DRESS...FOUR ALL-STAR LOOKS Earrings: Jan Michaels

Earrings: 1928 Jewelry Ring: Anne Koplik

Jacket: M6531

Bracelet: Karine Sultan

Bag: Stuart Weitzman, Zappos.com Shoe: Giuseppe Zanotti, Couture.Zappos.com

Bracelet: Jan Michaels

Tote Bag: Salvatore Ferragamo, Couture.Zappos.com Shoe: L.A.M.B., Zappos.com

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VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2012

Step up your wardrobe with this Rebecca Taylor dress that will carry you through the season with a change of accessories and a few added pieces . V1316.

Ring: Jan Michaels Necklace: John Wind

Jacket: V8838

Vest: V8838

Belt: Pat Areias Gloves: Carolina Amato

Cuff: Zenzii Clutch: BCBGMAXAZRIA, Zappos.com Shoe: See by Chloe, Couture.Zappos.com

VOGUE PATTERNS October/November 2012

Cuff: Pat Areias Shoe: L.A.M.B., Zappos.com

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Sewing Revolution!

What’ W hats’ N New, e What’s Hot, What’s Now! Count Down to Halloween.

An extensive collection of new sewing, quilting and craft items are now available!

Shops @ McCall is the one-stop center for all your favorite brands…

Also excite your creative senses with our wide selection of great books, DVDs and CDs. See our array of wonderful gifts for family and friends…Enjoy your shopping experience.

Shop Now!

DISPLAY UNTIL 12/31/2012

See the Spooktacular McCall’s/ Butterick Halloween Issue with over 300 costumes for the entire family…

Your Trick-OrTreaters will delight in the spirit of this ghostly night with frightfully exciting costumes and decorations from sweet to scary.

Available at your favorite retailer or at www.mccallpattern.com or www.butterick.com.

We’re “Mad” for Gertie’s Bombshell Style!

Sewing enthusiast and teacher Gretchen Hirsch with a love for all things retro delivers a collection of Va-Va Voom fashions in Butterick’s Fall /Winter Catalog.

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