Dog Park Magazine Issue 7

Issue 7

BREED SPOTLIGHT TREAT RECALLS

English Bulldog

ABOUT A DOG’S TAIL

STORM PHOBIA

BACKYARD HAZARDS Thursday, February 21, 13

5 Diseases

your dog will most likely get

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Thursday, February 21, 13

M

any readers have asked for an update on my rescued puppy, Pebbles.

She is doing amazingly well considering the bad start to her life. She will be four months old on February 22nd and is already eating a mainly raw diet. I hadn’t intended to start her on it so young, but she kept stealing the older dog’s meaty bones and raw meat patties. So really she decided on her own that she was ready for “big dog” food. Since she is a chihuahua/dachshund mix I am guessing she is always going to have an opinion about everything!

Up until about ten weeks old she had typical dachshund ears. Then, one ear flipped sideways so she had one of each. Then the other one flipped too making her look really comical. Now all of a sudden, one ear has gone back to dachshund so she has one of each again. It will be interesting to see what she ends up with when she is fully grown!

Thursday, February 21, 13

Last Saturday was swimming day for Lulu. Pebbles has been coming along so she can get used to other big dogs running around her. She ventured a little way into the water a few times on her own, but never very far. I stood in the water to encourage her and then decided to pick her up. I held her over the water and she started making paddling movements with her paws so I put her in and she swam back to shore. I was amazed because she was really good. Her body was straight in the water and she was able to move along pretty fast. I did it a few more times to get her used to it and I’m sure that next week she will be even better. One bonus? She made so much less fuss about being bathed when we got home!

Playing with big sister Lulu.

Dog Park Magazine is dedicated to bringing you interesting dog related articles, news, stories, holistic healthcare, great places to take your dog, and informative and fun videos and photos. Our mission is to promote the bond between dogs and humans through education and entertainment.

We would love to hear from you with feedback, comments, stories and photos.

Write to share@dogparkmag.com Thursday, February 21, 13

Playing with Jelly Bean the cat.

Time for a drink.

Wrestling with Lulu.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Contents Five Diseases Your Pet Will Most Likely Get and tips to prevent them

by Dina Colton

A Dog’s Tail Is not just for wagging

by Andy Santini

Dog Treat Recalls Toxic treats pulled from the shelves

by Dr Karen Becker

Rescue Story Mazloom

by Dina Colton

It’s a Dog’s Life How my heart got broken

by Bailey Russell

Thursday, February 21, 13

Contents Storm Phobias How to help your dog through

by Dina Colton

Breed Spotlight The English Bulldog

by Patrice Malone

Featured Dog Artist Danny Gordon

by Dina Colton

Backyard Hazards Make sure your yard is safe for your dog

by Patrice Malone

Park of the Month McAllen Dog Park, Texas

by Andy Santini

Thursday, February 21, 13

Contents Two funny videos Breakfast at Ginger’s and Ginger bakes a cake

Recipes for healthy home-made treats Make some for your best friend

by Jane Romsey

Thursday, February 21, 13

Five Diseases Your Pet is Most Likely to Get

Plus Tips to Prevent Them Thursday, February 21, 13

Five of the Most Common Chronic Diseases and Conditions in Pets In its annual State of Pet Health 2012 report, Banfield Pet Hospital focused on five chronic pet health problems that have been increasing at an alarming rate in recent years: Overweight and obesity. Since 2007, overweight and obesity have increased by 37 percent in dogs and a whopping 90 percent in cats.

Arthritis. Over the past five years, arthritis has increased 38 percent in dogs and 67 percent in cats. And to no one’s surprise, 40 percent of arthritic dogs and 37 percent of arthritic cats are also overweight.

Kidney disease. Kidney disease is nearly seven times more common in cats than dogs, and one in every 12 older cats has the condition. A significant percentage of both dogs and cats with kidney disease also have periodontal disease.

Thyroid disease. Hypothyroidism has increased six percent in dogs since 2007, and hyperthyroidism increased 13 percent in cats during the same period.

Heart disease. Heart disease is three times more common in dogs than cats. Twenty-eight percent of dogs and 25 percent of cats with cardiomyopathy also have periodontal disease.

Other chronic diseases all too commonly seen in dogs and cats include dental disease, dermatitis, diabetes and ear infections.

Many of these conditions can severely compromise your pet’s quality of life and can also become quite costly to manage.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Overweight & Obesity Overweight and obesity have reached epidemic levels in dogs and cats in the United States, affecting approximately 1 in 5 dogs and cats.

Although some might consider pets to be cuter or happier when they are overweight, the truth is, being overweight is linked to other serious conditions such as arthritis, heart and respiratory problems and diabetes mellitus (cats).

The easiest way to tell whether a dog or cat is overweight or obese is to weigh the pet regularly and assess the pet’s body condition. Pets are considered to have an “overweight” body condition when their ribs, spine and hip bones can barely be felt when touching their body, a defined waist cannot be seen and belly fat is noticeable. Additionally, pets may be unable to engage in normal activity because of this excess body fat and may have difficulty breathing, particularly when active.

Veterinarians will diagnose pets as overweight by tracking body weight over time and assessing body condition regularly. Veterinarians can also determine whether excess weight gain might be due to, or be a sign of, an underlying disease such as hypothyroidism in dogs. Restricting caloric intake and increasing activity are the most successful methods for weight loss in dogs and cats that are otherwise healthy. Nutritional counseling with a veterinarian, and diets specially formulated for weight loss, can aid in reaching a healthy weight.

Preventive recommendation: • Feed a balanced, species-appropriate diet. Skip all the commercial weight control and “low-fat diets”. Regardless of her weight, your dog or cat still needs the right nutrition for her species, which means food that is high in animal protein and moisture, with low or no grain content.

• Practice portion control -- usually a morning and evening meal, carefully measured. A high protein, low carb diet with the right amount of calories for weight loss, controlled through the portions you feed, is what will take the weight off your dog or cat. And don't forget to factor in any calories from treats.

They should be limited to less than 10% of their daily food requirement.

• Regularly exercise your pet. Very simply, your heavy dog or cat must take in fewer calories and expend more energy to lose weight. Daily exercise, including at least 20 minutes of consistent aerobic activity, will help your pet burn fat and increase muscle tone.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Arthritis Arthritis, or inflammation of the joints, affects dogs and cats just as it does humans.

If left untreated, the disease can cause irreversible joint damage, resulting in pain and restricting a pet’s ability to move or sit comfortably. Because pets, particularly cats, are good at hiding signs of discomfort, and because the signs of arthritis can be hard to distinguish from those of other diseases, arthritis is likely more common than currently reported.

Management of arthritis largely depends on the severity of the disease. For mild arthritis, treatment is usually conservative and may involve lifestyle changes (e.g., weight loss), anti-inflammatory medications to treat the pain and inflammation, moderate exercise, physical therapy, hydrotherapy and nutritional supplementation. For moderate to severe arthritis, veterinarians may prescribe more powerful medications and/or recommend surgery, depending on the pet’s condition.

Signs of arthritis: Signs of arthritis vary greatly from dog to cat. Signs most often noticed in dogs can range from a mild decrease in activity level and stiffness when standing up, to limping, muscle loss, abnormal gait and sitting positions and reluctance to jump or climb stairs. Signs in cats are subtle, even with severe arthritis, and may only involve decreased activity or changes in normal activity or behavior.

Preventive recommendation: If left undiagnosed, or untreated, arthritis can significantly impact the overall quality of a pet’s life.

Consider chiropractic treatments, acupuncture, massage, stretching exercises, laser therapy and water therapy to alleviate arthritis symptoms and slow joint degeneration.

While arthritis affects pets of all ages, the average age of dogs diagnosed with arthritis is 9 and the average age of cats diagnosed with arthritis is 12.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Kidney Disease The most common kidney problem seen in pets is chronic kidney disease. While the disease is more common in cats, it affects dogs as well. Adult, and particularly geriatric pets, are more at risk than younger pets.

When kidneys become diseased, critical processes become impaired and affect the body in many ways. Dogs and cats experience a change in urination habits, but can also develop problems that might seem unrelated to kidney function, such as nausea or high blood pressure, depending on the nature of the disease. Dogs and cats may be born with unhealthy kidneys, or they may develop kidney problems as they age.

Preventive recommendation: To prevent kidney disease in your dog, and especially your cat, feed moisture-dense, species-appropriate, high-quality (human grade) protein in its natural, unadulterated form. As much as possible, you should also remove toxins from your pet’s environment, offer clean, fresh, filtered drinking water, and strictly limit the number of vaccines and other drugs your dog or cat receives. Another crucial step in preventing or managing kidney disease is diligent monitoring of your pet’s organ systems through regular veterinary wellness exams. Pets in kidney failure “look fine” on the outside for many months or even years. Be proactive in identifying organ disease by checking your pet’s blood work regularly.

Prevent pet exposure to items that can cause kidney damage when eaten, such as Easter lilies, grapes and antifreeze.

In the case of chronic kidney disease, the cause is largely unknown. This type of disease differs from other types of kidney disease in that kidney function slowly decreases over time, and affected pets might not seem sick until a great deal of kidney damage is present.

Because chronic kidney disease is progressive and permanent, early diagnosis is critical. The best way to achieve this is through annual to semi-annual physical examinations, along with blood and urine testing and at-home monitoring of pets.

Signs of kidney disease: Warning signs of chronic kidney disease include increased thirst, increased urination, decreased appetite, weight loss, vomiting and bad breath.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Thyroid Disease Thyroid disease is a hormonal disorder that affects cats and dogs in different ways. The thyroid gland is small, but plays a major role in maintaining a pet’s health—just as it does in humans. The thyroid gland is responsible for producing hormones that help to regulate a pet’s metabolism.

In dogs, the most common thyroid disease is hypothyroidism, in which the thyroid gland does not produce enough hormones. Low levels of thyroid hormones cause the metabolism to slow down.

Treatment of hypothyroidism typically involves oral medication, with regular examinations to ensure healthy hormone levels are maintained.

On the contrary, in cats, the most common thyroid condition is hyperthyroidism, in which the thyroid gland produces more hormones than a cat needs, causing the metabolism to speed up. This is seen most commonly in senior cats. If left untreated, hyperthyroidism can result in heart failure, kidney disease, high blood pressure and other life-threatening conditions. Several treatment options are available for hyperthyroidism, including surgical removal of the thyroid gland, radiation treatment, oral medications or nutritional management. Successful management of these chronic conditions depends on early diagnosis and treatment.

Preventive recommendation: Avoiding unnecessary vaccinations and regular wellness checkups are necessary to prevent or manage thyroid disease in pets. A balanced immune system, routine monitoring of thyroid levels and early detection/treatment of a developing problem are essential tools in maintaining your pet’s thyroid in good working order. Also discuss the optimal time for spaying or neutering your dog. Pre-pubescent desexing increases your pet’s odds of having hypothyroidism. Avoiding excessive iodine consumption for felines (don’t feed seafood to cats).

Signs of thyroid disease: In the case of hypothyroidism (dogs), signs to look for at home include: sleeping more than usual, tiredness, weight gain (often rapid), seeking out warmth (e.g., sitting by a heat vent), dry skin, hair loss and discoloration or thickening of the skin where hair loss has occurred.

Signs of hyperthyroidism (cats) include weight loss, diarrhea, vomiting, increased appetite, increased thirst, increased urination, restlessness, and a matted or greasy coat or unkempt appearance.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Heart Disease Heart disease is a problem in dogs and cats, just as it is in people. Because the physical signs of the disease may not be visible, especially in the early stages, it is important that pets see a veterinarian for regular examinations. Left undetected, heart disease can lead to heart failure. However, early diagnosis has the potential to increase the length and quality of a pet’s life.

Heart disease can include disease of the heart muscle or valves—the disease affects cats and dogs differently. In all forms, the disease makes it difficult for the heart to pump blood through the body. As with many other diseases, dogs and cats may also be born with abnormal hearts or may develop heart conditions as they age.

Pet owners may not be aware their pet has heart disease, especially in the case of cats that show no signs until the disease has progressed. Veterinarians sometimes detect the disease during routine examinations. However, diagnosis is most often made through chest X-rays, an electrocardiograph (ECG) or an ultrasound test.

Preventive recommendation: Some types of heart disease may be avoided by ensuring pets, especially cats, receive the nutrients they need. For this reason, pet owners who choose to feed home-made diets should consult with a veterinarian to ensure their pets’ dietary needs are met.

A wonderful supplement to support heart health in dogs and cats is CoQ10, or more specifically, ubiquinol, which is the reduced form of CoQ10. Ubiquinol is a powerhouse supplement, providing energy to the cells of every organ in the body. It is an antioxidant, supports heart, kidney and nervous system health, boosts immune function, helps maintain healthy blood sugar levels, promotes muscle recovery after exercise, slows the progression of organ degeneration, and even helps prevent plaque buildup and inflammation of gum tissue. Make sure your pet’s diet is loaded with fresh, human grade meat. Meat is your pet’s source of important amino acids for heart health, including taurine, carnitine and arginine.

Signs of heart disease: At home, pet owners can watch for signs of fatigue or difficulty breathing (especially during play or exercise), as well as coughing or fainting.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Another supplement almost every dog and cat can benefit from is omega-3 essential fatty acids. An omega-3 supplement like krill oil can help with weight loss in pets, reduce inflammation associated with arthritis, promote normal kidney function, support heart health, and improve the condition of your pet’s coat and skin.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Toxic Chicken Jerky Pet Treats Pulled from Store Shelves!

By Dr. Karen Becker In a truly spectacular coincidence, the very same brands of chicken jerky treats suspected of causing sickness and death in hundreds of dogs since 2007 have now been identified as being possibly contaminated with “unapproved” antibiotics.

(Apparently the antibiotics are approved for use in China, where the treats are made, and in other countries, but not in the U.S.) According to NBC News, right after the first of the year, the New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets (NYSDAM) informed the FDA it had found trace amounts of residual poultry antibiotics in several lots of Waggin’ Train and Canyon Creek Ranch brand dog treats, as well as Milo’s Kitchen Chicken Jerky and Chicken Grillers home-style dog treats.

Treats Have Been Voluntarily Recalled Fortunately for U.S. pet owners and potential future pet victims, it seems the suggestion of antibiotic contamination was enough to prompt Nestle Purina PetCare (makers of Waggin’ Train and Canyon Creek Ranch jerky treats) and the Del Monte Corp. (makers of Milo’s Kitchen products) to voluntarily pull their chicken jerky products from store shelves across the country.

The New York agriculture agency discovered very low levels of four drugs not approved for use in U.S. poultry, and one antibiotic that is approved for use, but for which quantities are strictly limited. The antibiotics found were sulfaclozine, tilmicosin, trimethoprim, enrofloxacin and sulfaquinoxaline.

The agency used new, highly sensitive technology to detect the presence of the antibiotics. The tests on the jerky treats were conducted in response to “growing consumer concerns.”

Whatever the reason, I’m extremely thankful NYSDAM took it upon themselves to run the tests. And while discovering antibiotic residue in food products is never “good news,” I’m grateful, in this case, something was found in those treats that caused them to be pulled off the market.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Treat Manufacturers and FDA Make Predictable Public Response Needless to say, a spokesman for Nestle Purina says the issue with the antibiotics is in no way related to the issue with these very same chicken jerky treats that have allegedly sickened over 2,200 pets and killed well over 300.

The FDA also weighed in. From the agency’s January 9 CVM update: “Based on the FDA’s review of the NYSDAM results, there is no evidence that raises health concerns, and these results are highly unlikely to be related to the reports of illnesses FDA has received related to jerky pet treats. FDA commends Del Monte and Nestle-Purina for withdrawing these products from the market in response to this product quality issue. FDA also welcomes additional information about NYSDAM’s testing methodology, which is different and reportedly more sensitive than currently validated and approved regulatory methods.”

As those of you who have been following this fiasco are aware, the FDA has conducted its own “extensive” testing and has to date been unable to find anything in the chicken jerky treats that would cause pet illness or death.

Consequently, the agency maintains it is unable to take action to get the treats recalled, or even to effectively warn consumers of the potential for harm to their pets.

At Least for Now, Suspect Treats Are Off Store Shelves It’s a small victory, but one that brings a sigh of relief. Tragically, for those pet owners who lost beloved companions, the recall does not help.

According to NBC news, a woman from New York whose 2 year-old pug died suddenly in 2011 after eating Waggin’ Train chicken jerky treats, said in a statement: "How many lives could have been saved if, six years ago, when there was first doubt that the safety of our companions was compromised, the FDA and all manufacturers of imported chicken jerky had issued a precautionary recall until the toxin was found?

How much pain and suffering could have been avoided if only they had met their moral obligation six years ago and did the job the taxpayers pay them to do?"

For more information about recalled treats: http://truthaboutpetfood2.com http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-recalls/ https://www.avma.org/news/issues/recalls-alerts/pages/pet-food-safetyrecalls-alerts.aspx Thursday, February 21, 13

If you are concerned about giving your dog store bought treats, why not have a go at making your own.

There are three recipes for healthy home-made treats at the end of each magazine issue. Your dog will love you for it!

Thursday, February 21, 13

A Dog’s Tail is

not just for waggin’

?

Thursday, February 21, 13

Your dog’s tail is a versatile tool that is used for a variety of needs. A dog’s tail can be used for its social and physical needs. Your dog can use its tail to communicate, balance, for swimming, warmth, and to keep insects away.

As a communication tool, a dog will signal its social status and emotions with its tail. It can make these signals through the position in which the tail is held and through the direction and speed of its wag.

By noting the action of a dog’s tail, humans and dogs can make a decision on whether the dog is approachable. The action of wagging also releases pheromones from the dog’s anal glands which gives further information on a dog’s social status and sex.

Perhaps the most common misinterpretation of dogs is the myth that a dog wagging its tail is happy and friendly. While some wags are indeed associated with happiness, others can mean fear, insecurity, a social challenge or even a warning that if you approach, you are apt to be bitten.

In some ways, tail wagging serves the same communication functions as a human smile, a polite greeting or a nod of recognition. Smiles are social signals and are thus reserved mostly for situations where somebody is around to see them. For dogs, the wag seems to have the same properties.

Thursday, February 21, 13

A wagging tail is not a sure sign that a dog is friendly. In fact, nothing could be further from the truth.

The classic human assumption is that a tail tucked between the legs means the dog is upset or scared of something, and that every other type of tail wag is a sign of happiness and friendliness.

The first part, that a tucked tail signals fear is true, but a wagging tail can signal fear too. It’s just a different type of wag. A rapid sideto-side tail wag from a low-hanging tail, with the wag decreasing in width as the tail’s position becomes lower, though not necessarily tucked. This is the sign of a fearful dog.

Other “tell tails”: A tail that is held high while wagging displays dominance laced with excitability and/or playfulness. Get your dog’s attention and calm him down.

A tail that is held high and erect like a statue (the whole body will be statuesque) is a threat of dominance — your dog is not just feeling dominant, but he’s ready to enforce his dominance as well.

Remove your dog from the situation.

A tail that is held in line with the dog’s back or slightly dipped below the back line, swaying from side to side, is a sign that he’s comfortable and playful.

A tail that is wagging rapidly in circles like a helicopter tells you that he is extremely excited. Extreme excitability is an unstable mood for dogs, so you should try to calm him down a notch. That tail wag could decrease to comfortable playfulness or switch to great anxiety and fear — the bottom line is that it’s a wild card, so calm down that dog!

A tail that is resting naturally at a downward angle from the dog’s body, perhaps with a slight wag or no wag at all, is a sign that the dog is feeling stable, comfortable and at-ease. This is the best tail of all.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Since tail wagging is meant as a signal a dog will only wag its tail when other living beings are around - e.g. a person, another dog, a cat, a horse or perhaps a ball of lint that is moved by a breeze and might seem alive. When the dog is by itself, it will not give its typical tail wags, in the same way people do not talk to walls.

Like any other language, tail wags have a vocabulary and grammar that needs to be understood. Up to now scientists focused on two major sources of information, namely the tail's pattern of movement and its position. However new data adds a third important dimension to understanding the language of the canine tail.

Movement is a very important aspect of the signal. Dogs' eyes are much more sensitive to movement than they are to details or colors, so a moving tail is very visible to other dogs.

Evolution has made tails even more visible, such as tails with a light or dark tip, a lighter underside or a bushy shape.

The tail's position-specifically, the height at which it is heldcan be considered a sort of emotional meter. A middle height suggests the dog is relaxed. If the tail is held horizontally, the dog is attentive and alert. As the tail position moves further up, it is a sign the dog is becoming more threatening, with a vertical tail being a clearly dominant signal meaning, "I'm boss around here," or even a warning, "Back off or suffer the consequences."

As the tail position drops lower, it is a sign the dog is becoming more submissive, is worried or feels poorly. The extreme expression is the tail tucked under the body, which is a sign of fear, meaning, "Please don't hurt me."

Just as there are different dialects to a human language, such as a southern drawl or a New England twang, there are also dialects in dogs' tail language. Different breeds carry their tails at different heights, from the natural nearly vertical position common to Beagles and many Terriers to the lowslung tails of Greyhounds and Whippets. All positions should be read relative to the average position where the individual dog normally holds it tail.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Movements give additional meaning to the signals.

The speed of the wag indicates how excited the dog is. Meanwhile, the breadth of each tail sweep reveals whether the dog's emotional state is positive or negative, independent from the level of excitement.

As a result, there are many combinations, including the following common tail movements: ● A slight wag-with each swing of only small breadth-is usually seen during greetings as a tentative "Hello there," or a hopeful "I'm here." ● A broad wag is friendly; "I am not challenging or threatening you."

This can also mean, "I'm pleased," which is the closest to the popular concept of the happiness wag, especially if the tail seems to drag the hips with it. ● A slow wag with tail at 'half-mast' is less social than most other tail signals. Generally speaking, slow wags with the tail in neither a particularly dominant (high) nor a submissive (low) position are signs of insecurity. ● Tiny, high-speed movements that give the impression of the tail vibrating are signs the dog is about to do something-usually run or fight usually. If the tail is held high while vibrating, it is most likely an active threat.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Here’s another newly discovered feature of dog tail language that may surprise attentive pet owners. It now appears that when dogs feel generally positive about something or someone, their tails wag more to the right side of their rear ends, and when they have negative feelings, their tail wagging is biased to the left.

This would be the dog's left or right viewed from the rear as if you are facing in the direction the dog is viewing. That means that if you are facing the dog and drew an imaginary line down the middle of his back that positive right-sided signal would appear as tail swings mostly curving to your left.

Tails Convey Emotions • • • • • • • • • •

Thursday, February 21, 13

Pleasure Fear Friendliness Dominance Playfulness Defensiveness Inquisitiveness Aggression Nervousness Submissiveness

The tail is a dog’s semaphore flag, its furry emoticon.

It is a canine barometer. The tail may not tell you exactly what your dog is thinking, but it can give you a pretty good idea.

That’s another reason, experts have argued, to object to tail docking, a barbaric procedure in which several inches of a puppy’s tail are amputated, often without anesthesia. The pain and suffering that cosmetic tail docking can cause are reason enough to oppose the practice, and they are, indeed, the most commonly mentioned objections. Less often discussed, however, is the possibility that removing most of a dog’s tail may actually hamper its ability to communicate with the rest of its species.

Fortunately this practice is banned in most European and Scandinavian countries, the United Kingdom, Australia and India. Unfortunately, the United States has yet to institute any restrictions.

Thursday, February 21, 13

The tail as a balancing device Dog tails come in different sizes, some are thick at the base, some are thin, others are long and some dogs have very short tails. The tail however is sturdy as it is a part of the spinal column. This part of the dog's body serves a very important role. It is used for balance.

Sighthounds like the Greyhound, the Whippet and the Borzoi are known for their great speed that can easily overpower a prey. Without the tail to serve as counter balance, these dogs would topple over when they make an abrupt turn to chase a rabbit or a squirrel. The tail is similar to the balancing bar used by a tightrope walker. Shepherds that walk in narrow mountain paths use the tail to balance.

When swimming, the dog’s tail serves as a rudder and is very useful in helping the dog to change directions.

Most dogs’ tails are sickle shaped and curve over their backs. Long-haired tails are especially suitable for helping to keep the dog’s face warm. This is evident if you look at the tails of Siberian huskies, malamutes or Norwegian elkhounds.

A dogs tail can be used for preventing fly and insect bites.

A dog swings its tail to prevent flies and other insects from irritating the dog. In the same way that a cow uses its tail to shoo flies away, a dog will move its tail to get rid of insects and flies.

Dogs were born with tails for a reason. That’s why many breeders and kennel clubs are finally getting away from the tradition of docking tails.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Considering docking YOUR puppy’s tail?

Read on.....

On November 26, 2008, the American Veterinarian Medical Association (AVMA) took the following oďŹƒcial position on ear cropping and tail docking of dogs: "The AVMA opposes ear cropping and tail docking of dogs when done solely for cosmetic purposes.

The AVMA encourages the elimination of ear cropping and tail docking from breed standards."

The AKC (American Kennel Club) disagrees: "We recognize ear cropping and tail docking, as prescribed in certain breed standards, are acceptable practices integral to defining and preserving breed character, enhancing good health, and preventing injuries," according to the AKC. "These breed characteristics are procedures performed to insure the safety of dogs that on a daily basis perform heroic roles with Homeland Security, serve in the U.S. Military and at police departments protecting tens of thousands of communities throughout our nation as well as competing in the field. Mislabeling these procedures as "cosmetic" is a severe mischaracterization that connotes a lack of respect and knowledge of history and the function of purebred dogs."

Thursday, February 21, 13

The practice of tail docking and ear cropping has come under much closer scrutiny in the U.S. recently. We’re late to the game, as these procedures have been restricted or banned entirely in many European countries for years.

Opponents question the necessity for these cosmetic alterations and voice concern for the pain and suffering of the puppies and dogs that undergo the procedures.

In response to the public’s concern -- and coupled with the fact that docking and cropping for cosmetic reasons is neither medically advisable nor beneficial to dogs -- the AVMA formally denounced the practice in 2008.

As you can see from the AKC statement above, breeder groups continue to stand firmly behind the practice.

How Tail Docking is Performed Tail docking is the intentional removal of a portion of a dog’s tail.

The tail is docked in one of two ways. One method involves putting a rubber bandtype ligature around the base, which cuts off the blood supply and causes the tail to fall off in a matter of days. This is the method used by many breeders.

The other method is amputation with either surgical scissors or a scalpel.

Tail docking is generally done on two- to 10-day-old puppies, without anesthesia.

The cut goes through skin, cartilage, nerve endings and bone. Proponents believe very young puppies do not feel pain during docking. They believe canines are less developed than other animals at birth, with less sensitive nervous systems.

Opponents of tail docking, including the World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA), disagree. They maintain puppies, just like human babies, have a fully developed nervous system and do indeed feel pain. They point to biological markers, which show pain is occurring during and after a procedure such as tail docking.

The rubber ligature method, in which the blood supply to the tail is cut off by strangulation, very likely also causes considerable pain to the puppy.

Envision wrapping a rubber band tightly around your toe and leaving it there until you’ve lost all blood flow and sensation. It’s not hard to imagine the extreme discomfort you would feel.

Thursday, February 21, 13

Ear Cropping Ear cropping is typically done when a puppy is eight to 10 weeks old.

The procedure is performed under general anesthesia. A dog’s ears have lots of nerve endings, and the pain this surgery would cause without anesthesia is extreme.

Cropping involves the surgical removal of around two-thirds of the ear. The remaining tissue is then tightly taped into an upright position.

Pain medication is not routinely given after a cropping procedure.

Over the next several weeks or even months, the altered ears will be taped and retaped in an effort to get them to stand up straight. This process may or may not yield the intended result. Many cropped puppies, even after weeks or months of taping, still have floppy ears.

Cropping can also disfigure the ears, leaving them scarred or bent.

What is the Purpose of These Procedures?

Historically, tail docking and ear cropping were done for a wide range of often questionable purposes, including to: • Increase a dog’s speed • Strengthen their back • Prevent rabies • Avoid injury while animals were engaged in once acceptable practices like dog fights • Avoid an ancient tax once levied in the U.K. against owners of working dogs with undocked tails • Give guard dogs a more ferocious look (via ear cropping)

Thursday, February 21, 13

Today, arguments in favor of tail docking generally fall into two categories: 1. To prevent injury and infection in hunting, herding and other working dogs 2. To maintain kennel club breed standards Breeders and many owners of working dogs believe docking reduces the risk of tail injuries caused from hunting and herding activities carried out in fields, wooded areas and heavy vegetation. Injuries cited include collecting burrs and foxtails, which if ignored can turn painful and cause infection.

One obvious problem with this reasoning is that working breeds without docked tails, among them retrievers, setters and foxhounds, seem to do just fine with their tails intact.

Another problem with this argument is that whether or not a dog will be used to hunt or herd has no bearing on whether it will lose its tail. The vast majority of docking is done based on a puppy’s breed alone -- not on its future as a working dog, show dog or the family pet.

The injury argument also turns how spaniels are handled into a complete contradiction. The tails of spaniels are docked, but not their ears, which are long, heavily coated, and prone to frequent, severe infections. Their ears would seem to pose more of a hazard outdoors than their tails, wouldn’t they?

The only argument (other than appearance) for tail docking in non-working breeds seems to be that dogs that enthusiastically wag their tails a lot are apt to injure them, even at home. If this is a real concern, it’s news to me.

Proponents also cite hygiene problems in long-haired breeds as a reason for tail docking.

The argument for ear cropping, beyond making certain dogs appear menacing, is a reduction in ear infections due to increased air flow to the ear canal. There is virtually no scientific evidence to back up this claim.

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The Breed Standard Debate Docking and cropping proponents make the point that most breed standards do not allow for uncropped or undocked animals.

The AKC, while it has no rules specifically requiring docking, is not likely to score an undocked show dog highly for conformation. Breed standards for docked animals establish severe penalties for undocked dogs.

Dog owners who want to show their animals can feel pressured into docking and cropping in order to compete in the ring.

Is Tail Docking and Ear Cropping Harmful?

Just as there is a use and purpose for every organ and appendage you were born with, so it is with your dog.

If tails weren’t important to dogs, they would have been born without them.

Your dog uses his tail for balance. He uses it to communicate – with you and with other dogs. Your dog can convey fear, aggression, playfulness, curiosity and tension with the movement and position of his tail.

Certain breeds also use their tails to good advantage when they swim, run and engage in other energetic activities. A docked dog that is active might be at a disadvantage compared to his playmates with intact tails.

All docking and cropping methods cause suffering for the animal, and many dogs go on to experience the phantom pain of a missing appendage much like human amputees do. There is also a risk of formation of painful neuroma (nerve tissue scarring) in the stump of a docked tail.

Finally, the AVMA has this to say: "Ear cropping and tail docking in dogs for cosmetic reasons are not medically indicated nor of benefit to the patient. These procedures cause pain and distress, and, as with all surgical procedures, are accompanied by inherent risks of anesthesia, blood loss and infection.

Therefore, veterinarians should counsel dog owners about these matters before agreeing to perform these surgeries."

The ideal standards for the appearance and function of your canine companions is quite evident at their birth. Their ears and tails were created exactly the way they were meant to be.

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Thursday, February 21, 13

Mazloom

To see him run and play, you have to look twice to notice that Mazloom has only two front legs.

The unusual dog was rescued from Egypt by Tanya Mahrous Tobias, of Second Life from Atlanta, Georgia. The non-profit organization she runs sells gently used donated items to help raise money to rescue homeless pets.

When Tanya was visiting family in Egypt, she and some friends went to the Egyptian Society for Mercy to Animals and met a few street dogs. One was Mazloom. She decided to bring Mazloom and one other dog, Riley, home to the States with her. The shelter convinced her to take one more dog, Mazloom's 3-month old puppy buddy, named Muzo.Â

Riley Thursday, February 21, 13

Muzo

Mazloom

Tanya explained that Egypt only has a handful of animal rescue organizations in a country of 80 million people. These groups face unimaginable challenges. So if she could help a dog or two - or three - she would.

When doctors checked Mazloom they had to amputate both of his hind legs.

"He was either hit by a car or abused or something. We don't know for sure," Tanya said. "There were many people who just wanted to euthanize him, just put him out of his misery."

However, Tanya and others recognized there was something in the little dog's attitude. "They all saw something special in his spirit and they just refused to give up on him. They amputated both of his legs and started rehabilitating him," Tobias said.

It was the right decision. Mazloom has adjusted remarkably well to having only two legs. He's able to walk and play and run about so quickly, it's as if he had all four legs.

Since reaching the States in March, Mazloom couldn't be happier and last June he was adopted and now lives in Miami. Recently he was given a set of wheels to make his life easier.

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Mazloom and Muzo playing in the backyard

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It’s a Dog’s Life The World according to Bailey

It was Valentine’s Day recently and that got me thinking about affairs of the heart and how mine was so cruelly ripped apart.

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Some years ago, when we still lived in Florida and before my brother Sammy came along, my owner decided I needed a dog sitter instead of hanging out at home all day on my own. She never consulted me on this matter. She just put me into my crate one morning and left me for the day at Uncle Bob’s.

That’s when I first saw her. Oh my! Adorable, pretty, sweet little princess. Her name was Paris.

As soon as my crate door was opened I shot out and ran straight over to her, tail wagging vigorously, well as vigorously as my short little tail could wag. Whoah.

She snarled, she growled and then snapped at me and bit me on the nose. I yelped and retreated to the corner where I proceeded to lick the wall while I gathered my thoughts.

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I waited a while glancing round occasionally to see where she was. She was just sitting on the rug pretending to ignore me, licking her paws nonchalantly. I decided to show her my specialty. I ran around and around in circles letting drool fly out of my mouth then jumping up and catching it. Of course, I can’t catch it all so there is always a little that lands on the furniture......err, and the walls, um, I guess there was some on the ceiling fan too........

Uncle Bob got mad when he saw his drool covered room. He tucked me under his arm and locked me in my crate. Oh the humiliation! I swear that little B. was laughing at me. Wasn’t that a famous painting? The Laughing Chihuahua? Anyway, I digress.

Princess Paris letting me share her rug.

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I just could not understand it. Me? I am considered extremely handsome. I know a few people have commented about my head being too big for my body and wonder why I don’t topple over.

But I only have a big head to accommodate my extra large brain. Dear readers, YOU know what a super smart dog I am.

What a combination. Brains, good looks and a superb body.

What lady dog wouldn’t be impressed and just fall at my paws?

Only one, the one I fell for.........Paris!

Write to me...... bailey@dogparkmag.com

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Thursday, February 21, 13

The spring and summer months bring thunderstorms, and if you have a storm-phobic dog, I'm sure you're not looking forward to them.

Depending on your pet's experience with storms, as well as the force of any given storm, your dog might simply find a place to hide.

Or he might have a more dramatic reaction (for example, running away or trying to chew his way out of his crate or through a door).

Some reactions are more unsettling than others, but regardless of your dog's response to a storm, it's difficult to know your pet is feeling terrified and you don't know what to do to calm him.

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Dogs with Storm Phobia Often Have Other Related Conditions In a Cornell University retrospective study of over 1,644 dogs presenting with behavior problems over a ten-year period, 2.3 percent were seen for storm phobia.

Research conducted at the University of Pennsylvania and published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association looked at a possible link between storm phobias, noise phobias and separation anxiety in dogs.

The study revealed there is a high probability (0.88) dogs with noise phobia also have separation anxiety.

The vast majority of dogs with thunderstorm phobia also had separation anxiety.

In dogs with separation anxiety, there was a 0.63 probability they also had noise phobia, and a 0.52 likelihood they suffered from storm phobia.

Dogs with thunderstorm phobia had a 0.90 chance of having noise phobia, but dogs with noise phobia had only a 0.76 probability of having storm phobia.

Another interesting conclusion was the response to noise is different than the response to thunderstorms, likely due to the unpredictability of thunderstorms, according to study authors.

The researchers recommended that dogs with any of the three conditions should be checked for the other two, and that the interaction among the conditions is important for accurate diagnosis and treatment.

Storm Phobia Symptoms Storm-phobic dogs will typically display one or more of the following symptoms, which can be mild to extreme: Pacing Vocalization (whining, howling) Panting Destructive behavior Drooling Potty accidents in the house Trembling Self-harm Staying close to their human

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Since dogs with one type of phobia tend to have others, it can be difficult for your veterinarian to immediately determine if the phobia is only in relation to thunderstorms.

The first thing your vet might ask is whether your dog also reacts to other loud noises and/or to being left home by himself.

Typically, dogs with a combination of phobias experience more extreme symptoms than dogs with just one condition. Also, the intensity of the phobia tends to impact the dog's response to treatment.

Storm Phobia is Distinct from Other Phobias While there are often co-existing phobias in one dog, storm phobias actually differ quite a bit from other conditions.

If your dog has separation anxiety, she'll be triggered by activities leading up to your departure, and the departure itself. A dog with noise phobia will be triggered by the sound of the specific noise(s) she's bothered by.

Storm-phobic dogs can react to any number of storm-related triggers, including: • The boom of thunder or the crack of lightning • The sound of wind or pouring rain • Darkening skies • Changes in barometric pressure • Smells that precede or accompany a storm Your storm phobic dog will know bad weather is coming long before you do.

Another peculiarity of thunderstorm phobia is it often escalates. Dogs that have been mild to moderately upset by storms can suddenly experience a significant increase in anxiety.

This jump in anxiety level can often be linked to a particularly severe storm and perhaps a static electric shock the dog is exposed to during the storm. Many storm-phobic dogs seem driven to find areas where electrical grounds can protect them from static charges – places like sinks, bathtubs, shower enclosures, under toilet tanks, or next to metal radiators or pipes.

It's a fact that static electricity fields build up during storms and some animals become statically charged.

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Treating Dogs with Thunderstorm Phobia Every storm-phobic dog's response is different, so therapy should be customized to the individual animal and the intensity of his or her response.

• Make a "safe room." This is a place your dog can escape to when a storm is approaching, and it should be available to her at all times – especially when you're not home. The idea is to limit her exposure to as many aspects of thunderstorms as possible. The room would ideally have no windows, or covered windows so the storm can't be seen. If necessary, sound-proofing wallboard can muffle the noise of a storm. Put a solid-sided crate in the room with the door left open, along with a bit of food, water, treats and toys.

• As part of your dog's therapy, get her used to the room before she needs it by associating it with fun activities, food treats and gentle, soothing massage.

Some owners use a head collar to calm the dog and more easily put her into a relaxed down position.

As the storm approaches, turn on the lights in the safe room so lightning flashes won't be extremely obvious, and turn on calming music.

• Pheromone diffusers. Species-specific pheromones are chemical substances that can positively affect an animal's emotional state and behavior. Dog-appeasing pheromone (DAP) is a synthetic form of a pheromone secreted by the mammary glands of nursing dogs. Studies have shown DAP diffusers are effective therapy for dogs with firework phobias and separation anxiety.

• Behavior modification. One type of behavior modification for storm phobias is to engage your dog in a behavior that earns a reward. Ask your dog to perform a command he's familiar with and reward him if he does. This technique distracts both of you – the dog from his fear of the storm, and you from the temptation to inadvertently reinforce your pet's phobic behavior by petting and soothing him while he's showing anxiety.

• Another type of behavior modification involves trying to get your dog busy with a more pleasant activity than storm watching. Play a game with him or give him a recreational bone to gnaw on. Be aware that if your pet's response to storms is intense, you may not be able to engage him in another activity early in his treatment program.

• Desensitization. This therapy involves using a CD with reproduced storm sounds to attempt to desensitize your pet. It's best to do this during times of the year when actual storms are few and far between.

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Unfortunately, desensitization isn't always as effective with storm phobias as it is with other types of anxiety disorders. That's because it's difficult to mimic all the various triggers that set off a fear response in a storm-phobic pet – in particular changes in barometric pressure, static electricity, and whatever scents dogs notice with an impending change in the weather. In addition, desensitization has to be done in each room of the house, because a new coping skill your dog learns in the living room will be forgotten in the kitchen.

These problems make desensitization more of a challenge in treating storm phobias.

• Storm jackets. There are a number of different brands of storm jackets to choose from these days, and they have proved very helpful for some dogs with thunderstorm phobias. Storm jackets are designed to be snug-fitting to mimic the sensation of being swaddled, a feeling that is comforting to dogs.

You might also consider a calming cap.

• TTouch and Emotional Freedom Technique (EFT). TTouch is a specific massage technique that can be helpful for anxious pets. EFT is a tapping technique that can be used to deal with a wide variety of emotional and physical problems.

• Natural supplements and remedies. Talk to your holistic vet about homeopathic, TCM and other natural remedies that may help relieve your dog's stress. These should be used in conjunction with behavior modification. A few I like are the nutraceuticals l-tryptophan, valerian, GABA, homeopathic Aconitum and the TCM formulas that Calm the Shen.

A U.K. study evaluated a treatment program that used two self-help, CD-based desensitization and counter-conditioning programs, plus DAP diffusers, plus a "safe haven" for dogs with fireworks phobia. The severity of the dogs' phobias was significantly improved, as was their generalized fear.

If nothing you attempt seems to help your storm-phobic dog, don't despair. Talk to your vet about a temporary course of drug therapy (usually with anti-anxiety meds or anti-depressants) in conjunction with behavior modification and some of the other recommendations outlined above.

You can also consult an animal behaviorist in your area through the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. Alternatively, you can look for a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist at the Animal Behavior Society.

By combining a few different therapies (and trying several to see which have the most impact), you increase the likelihood of bringing your dog's phobia under control.

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Using a T shirt to make a dog anxiety wrap/storm shirt

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T-Touch information

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T-Touch and a dog who cannot walk

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e English Bulldog

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The English Bulldog, symbol of a nation.

Faithful, stubborn, protective and devoted.

Not all English Bulldogs are the lazy, couchpotatoes they are popularly thought to be.

Some say they’re ugly, others, like me, find them adorably cute.

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T

he English Bulldog, also known as the British Bulldog or simply the Bulldog, of course originated from the British Isles. The word “bull” in its name is derived from its use in connection with the cruel blood-sport of bull-baiting, which started centuries ago and ultimately was officially outlawed in England in the mid-1800s.

The Bulldog is dignified yet friendly and companionable. Despite its stout body and formidable features, the Bulldog is extremely gentle and very protective over its family. It is particularly good with children and should never be vicious or aggressive. Bulldogs are also exceptional guard dogs, but they can be stubborn and headstrong. Early socialization and consistent training will help to head off behavioral problems. The puppy Bulldog loves to play, but older Bulldogs are more apt to spend a day lazing on the couch.

Bulldogs need exercise to prevent excessive weight gain, and they need plenty of interaction with their human companions. This breed does not like to be left alone for long periods of time.

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The history of the English Bulldog is unfortunately a violent one. This breed was created, sometime in the 13th century specifically for the purpose of bull-baiting, a cruel socalled “sport” that pitted a dog against a bull for a fight to the death.

The original Bulldog must have been ferocious, powerful and courageous.

Attention to conformation, temperament, beauty or symmetry of form was not valued. Instead, they were bred to be savage, vicious and almost immune to pain.

The Bulldog’s unusual, extremely undershot jaw stems from those awful days, as it enabled him to grab a bull and clamp down, and hang on until the end. It was not a good time for the human-canine relationship. Dog fighting in underground “pits” became popular as bull-baiting’s popularity waned.

In 1835, bull and dog fighting became illegal in England. Despite the fact that this could have led to the disappearance of the Bulldog, a number of fanciers attempted to preserve this fine breed, to retain its good qualities without promoting its bad ones. Within a few generations, the English Bulldog became one of the finest physical and temperamental specimens among canines, with its original viciousness completely gone.

This is the English Bulldog of today, who is docile and adaptive. He can live anywhere, loves children, is easy to care for and is affectionate and loyal. The Bulldog is probably one of the gentlest breeds anywhere.

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When you look at the short, droopy face of an English Bulldog, you couldn't possibly imagine him bringing an actual bull to its knees, but that's exactly what this breed was originally designed to do.

English butchers in the Middle Ages would send the Bulldog out to assist them in catching bulls for slaughter.

Their short faces and powerful jaws could latch onto a bulls' neck and literally bring it to the ground.

Today, however, the Bulldog has a reputation for being a gentle lover of belly rubs more so than a herculean hunter. They are playful, lovable and loyal. Good with kids, Bulldogs will exhibit the patience of a saint when children want to hug and climb on them. They are one of the most amiable breeds, laid back and never high-strung. While puppies are energetic and rowdy, adult Bulldogs mellow out quickly and prefer an afternoon nap to a long walk in the park.

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Activity Requirements Bulldogs don't need a lot of vigorous activity, and in fact should not be exercised too hard in hot weather.

Despite their love of relaxation, Bulldogs should be walked regularly to keep them in shape, as obesity can be a problem. Apartments and condos can make a Bulldog just as happy as a house with a big yard. They are easygoing creatures and are highly inactive when indoors, so the size of the home is never an issue for Bulldogs, as long as they have a nice place to sleep.

Swimming, despite popular belief that Bulldogs can’t swim, is a great activity for them since it lessens the stress on their joints.

Trainability Bulldogs are stubborn and can be a challenge to train.

Food and positive reinforcement are the only two methods that should ever be employed with this breed, as a heavy hand will get you nowhere.

Behavioral Traits Despite their general easy-going attitude, food aggression is a problem with many Bulldogs. They love to eat and no one should ever mess with a Bulldog and his dinner. Children should be taught to stay away and other animals should not be fed in the same area as a Bulldog.

Dog aggression can be another problem with Bulldogs. If raised alongside another dog, they should be fine, but males tend to exhibit aggression as adults, especially toward other males. Bulldogs should be socialized around other dogs as early as possible.

If snoring, grunting, snorting, drooling and flatulence bother you, then a Bulldog is not right for you. They exhibit all of the above traits to excess.

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Appearance The bulldog is a short, broad, compact, massive dog, with sturdy legs that appear bowed (although the bones of the legs are straight). Its head is large and features a large sour expression that is created by a pronounced undershot jaw (with no teeth showing), hanging jowls, and a flat, wrinkled face.

The body is very broad and low with a deep, capacious chest and rounded ribcage. The abdomen is tucked up. The heavy shoulders are set far apart and slant outward for great stability. The circumference of the skull (measured in front of the ears) should be at least as great as the dog's height at the withers.

The eyes are set low and wide apart. The ears are "rosed" and the large nose is wide and black . The upper lips completely cover the lower jaw. The tail either hangs down or can bend in kinks.

The skin is soft and loose, covered with a smooth, short coat that comes in several colors including brindles, white, fawn, red or piebald. Generally 12 to 14� in height, the average weight is 50 to 55lbs.

The Bulldog has a characteristic rolling gait.

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Size and Weight English Bulldogs average about 50 pounds for males and 40 pounds for females.

Female Bulldogs look less “bulldogish� than males, as their features are not as exaggerated. Proportion and symmetry is of higher value for show dogs than the actual size or weight of the dog.

Grooming Needs This breed is relatively low maintenance on the grooming front. Regular brushing can keep their moderate, year-round shedding from becoming unruly and baths only need be given when the dog has gotten himself into a bit of muck, or he begins to smell.

The wrinkles of the face should be wiped and dried regularly in order to prevent bacteria from developing and care should be taken to dry the wrinkles after bathing, as well. Many owners use baby wipes infused with lanolin to keep the wrinkles healthy. They are prone to bad breath, so weekly or even daily tooth brushing is a must to keep bacteria from building up and causing tooth loss later in life.

Regular cleaning of the ears with a veterinarian-approved cleanser can keep infections from forming.

Active Bulldogs will wear their toenails down naturally, but if you can hear nails clicking on the floor, a trim is in order. Puppies feet should be handled from an early age to prepare the Bulldog for nail trimmings later in life.

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One of the things I love best about English Bulldogs is the way they try things that only humans usually do. I know my dog would never skateboard or surf. Even if I could teach her I doubt she would be able to balance. I think Bulldogs are able to do these things because they have a low center of gravity. Plus, they seem to be extraordinarily adventurous. Here are some fun videos of clever Bulldogs.

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Of course, English Bulldog puppies are adorable!

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Bulldog on trampoline

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Bulldog puppy gets a bath

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Thursday, February 21, 13

Featured Dog Artist Danny Gordon

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Danny Gordon is an award winning illustrator/artist who has been drawing since the age of 5.

He has always had a steadfast determination to improve his art, even at an e a r l y a g e. H i s m o t h e r remembers how diďŹƒcult it was to get Danny to even break for dinner! "Danny, it's time to eat," she'd say. "In a minute, mom!" he'd reply.

This would go on sometimes for hours before he would emerge from his room.

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That dedication has earned him many awards through the years, including the prestigious Graphic Communication Society of Oklahoma Student Design Competition (now known as AIGA). Danny won the coveted "best of show" honor for two successive years; the only student ever to have done so in the history of the competition!

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Danny has produced work for a variety of clients, including: Connecticut Magazine, Oklahoma Gazette, Devon Energy, The Oklahoman, Oklahoma Department of Libraries, Bob Howard Auto Mall, Metro Family Magazine, and more. Among his varied projects are children's books, editorials, caricatures, and murals.

Danny also enjoys providing instruction to children at the following art institutions: The Fine Arts Institute, Studio Mid-Del, Oklahoma City Art Museum, and City Arts.

Currently, Danny is busy adding to his portfolio of whimsical dog art, which are selling almost faster than he can draw! This newest line of work is called Danny's Doggies.

When you look at Danny Gordon’s art you can’t help smiling. You can tell he has a great sense of h u m o r. H i s q u i r k y, whimsical dogs with their oversized heads are full of character and personality.

I found it really difficult to choose which paintings to showcase here because I pretty much love them all!

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To see more of Gordon’s work please visit his website www.dannygordon.com

Thursday, February 21, 13

Backyard Hazards

If you want to consider leaving your dog outside without your supervision, even inside a fence, you need to be aware of the potential hazards. There are many ways you can ensure the safety of your dog while he’s playing in your backyard.

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Here are some of the most common potentially harmful dangers for pets that should be avoided in many yards and gardens: Mulch Products Brown cocoa bean mulch is made of discarded hulls or shells of the cocoa bean, which are by-products of chocolate production. The tempting “chocolate-like” smell is enticing to your pets. Since it is not usually apparent how much of the toxin the mulch contains, it’s best to keep dogs a safe distance away, to always supervise your pet while outside, or to not use that particular type of mulch at all.

Fertilizers, Soil Additives and Pesticides While some fertilizers can be safe for pets, those that contain blood meal, bone meal, feather meal and iron may be especially tasty – and dangerous to dogs. Large ingestion of meal-containing products can form a concretion in the stomach, potentially obstructing the gastrointestinal tract and causing severe pancreatitis, and those that contain iron may result in iron poisoning. Always read the labels to ensure proper usage and safety precautions with your pets.

Slug and Snail Baits These baits are available in a variety of forms (pellets, granular, powder and liquid) and contain the active ingredient metaldehyde, which is highly poisonous to dogs and cats. These baits are highly toxic and without immediate veterinary attention, symptoms can last for several days and can be fatal.

Compost This seems like a very healthy substance and gardeners love their compost; however, it can be toxic to pets and wildlife so please keep it fenced off. As the organic matter decomposes, it is common for molds to grow, some of which produce tremorgenic mycotoxins, which are toxic to both pets and wildlife. Even small amounts ingested can result in a sick pet within 30 minutes to several hours. Signs of ingestion include agitation, hyperthermia, hyper-responsiveness, panting, drooling, and vomiting, and can progress to serious issues like including incoordination, tremors, and seizures!

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Blue–green algae or Cyanobacteria We all love to sit by water but the growth of toxic algae can be found in both fresh and salt water throughout the warm regions of the world. Bluegreen algae becomes concerning when algae accumulates on the surface of the water during hot, dry weather with wind that can shift concentrated algae mats along the shorelines. Aected water may have the appearance of pea soup with thick layers of algae on the surface. Blooms of blue-green algae can contain hepatoxins and/or neurotoxins, depending on the species. Exposures occur when dogs ingest or swim in water that contains the cyanobateria which can cause vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, weakness, shock, icterus (yellow gums), and potentially death within 24 hours to several days.

Flowers and Plants While many herbs are great for your pets, some of the most dangerous spring and summertime threats to pets in the yard are common flowers and plants.

Lily of the Valley: An early springtime favorite, the Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis) contains cardiac glycosides, which are also used in many human heart medications. Any pet with a known exposure should be examined and evaluated by a veterinarian and treated symptomatically.

Crocuses: There are two types of crocus plants: one blooms in the spring and the other in the fall. The spring plants are more common and cause only gastrointestinal upset accompanied by vomiting and diarrhea in dogs and cats. However, the fall crocus is highly toxic and can cause severe vomiting, gastrointestinal bleeding, and multi-system organ failure with bone marrow suppression.If you witness your pet eating a crocus and you are not sure what variety it is, seek veterinary care immediately.

Lilies: Cat owners beware of lilies! While some types cause only minor symptoms when eaten, other varieties of the true lily family are deadly and highly toxic to cats; even the water in a vase containing true lilies is considered highly poisonous. If a cat consumes any part of these lilies, he or she needs immediate veterinary care to prevent kidney failure.

Enjoy the time outdoors with your pets. Just be careful of what you leave outside and what they put in their mouths. Also make sure that your pets have access to shade and water during hot summer days.

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Other Animals When you have a fenced back yard, you hope it will provide a safe place for your dog to run, play, and eliminate. You might be quite startled to learn how many other animals use the yard or areas just outside it.

Some of them come only at night. This can explain why the occasional dog becomes spooked about going outside after dark. It’s not that dogs can’t see in the dark. Unless the dog has a vision problem, the night vision of dogs tends to be quite good.

Depending on where you live, some very dangerous animals may visit in the night hours.

Other dogs may eagerly go out at night to try hunting the skunk, possum, raccoon, or any number of other living things—a habit that has the potential of strengthening the dog’s instincts to pursue and kill other animals, including family pets. If you have more than one dog, they may get into a fight over who gets to tear up the animal they’ve found outside. This can lead to fighting over other issues as well.

One measure that helps reduce predation outdoors—both your dogs preying on other critters and other critters preying on them—is to turn on a light before letting your dogs into the yard at night. This becomes a signal to the critters that the dogs are coming, and most critters will leave. It doesn’t take long at all for them to learn what that light coming on means. The light also allows you to see what is going on out there when the dogs are out at night.

Dogs on the other side of the fence, whether passing in a public area or spending time in an adjoining back yard, can pose behavior issues for your dog. If you’re there to supervise, although, these can become training opportunities.

Call your dog to you and away from the fence whenever the dog even starts to think about getting into a barking frenzy or fence-fighting. Do this enough times and you’ll avoid having your dog develop a dangerous attitude toward other dogs like the one on the other side of the fence. You’ll also avoid having neighbors enlist the aid of authorities to deal with the barking disturbance.

If you have a fenced yard, it may not occur to you that another dog could enter the yard. This has been known to happen; in some cases the resident dog has been injured or killed by the intruding dog, or a small dog has entered the yard of a big dog and been killed. Watch over your yard and talk first to the other dog owner (if possible) and then to the authorities if necessary to prevent such a tragedy.

Behaviorally, this kind of experience can make a real mess of your dog’s attitude toward other dogs.

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Children Children are by definition immature, and do not understand the consequences of their actions. A dog unsupervised in a back yard, whether inside a fence or tied out, is an easy target for children that can cause damage.

Some kids like to tease dogs to get the dogs to react. When the dog reacts in a manner that might be reasonable to protect property the dog perceives as being threatened, children may feel justified in escalating the teasing into aggressive or cruel acts.

Children may tease a dog over a fence or through a fence.

They may tear pieces o your fence and throw them at your dog, or hit the dog with them. They may enter your yard or open the gate and release your dog. Some of this stu is done to show o for other kids or to respond to a dare. Some of it is boredom. And occasionally a seriously disturbed child takes advantage of an unprotected dog to commit atrocities.

The physical risks to your dog in these situations are obvious.

What is not always obvious to people is that dogs frequently become aggressive to children because of these things happening when you are not there to see. Dogs usually have good reasons for fear or aggression toward children, and back yard experiences are often at the root of the problem.

Children can also tease dogs inadvertently. They may simply be going about the business of being kids: running, screaming, pushing, shoving and otherwise experiencing their world. This often overstimulates dogs, and the result can be an injured child or worse.

Be sure to have your dog under control whenever children play in your yard. The situation can create a training opportunity if the children will follow your directions and you have a working relationship with the dog. You can teach many dogs to ignore rowdy children with careful, positive conditioning to the situation. But when you are not able to control the dog or the kids, put the dog in a separate, safe area rather than expose the dog to learning dangerous habits and the kids to getting hurt.

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Adult Neighbors, Meter Readers, and Workers Dogs can become overstimulated by people passing the yard on the other side of the fence. You can manage this by supervising the dog and calling the dog away from the fence every time. One neat solution is to screen the dog’s view of an area where this is happening. In the process, you can prevent habits such as barking, lunging, and jumping out of the fence to get at people.

If the people are passing in front of your home, sometimes it works to arrange your fence so that the dog’s view in that direction encompasses only the back wall of your house. When the dog can’t go up the sides of the property to look out toward the front, you eliminate a lot of risk as well as noise.

When the people are in yards adjoining yours, make sure your dog’s behavior doesn’t prevent them from using and enjoying their own property. This interferes with quality of life for everyone involved, and will put you and your dog on the wrong side of the law.

Fencing the dog back from the property line fence can greatly defuse this situation. Combined with calling the dog to you whenever any barking starts, you’ll both please and impress your neighbors, while at the same time having better control over your dog’s excitement levels.

Be careful about standing at your fence talking to a neighbor standing on the other side of the fence while your dog is running around in the yard. People have gotten bitten this way. The dog is at the boundary of territory that has likely been scent-marked with the dog’s urine. Friendly behavior can switch to protecting that boundary in the blink of an eye. If you want to teach your dog to relax and be sociable with the neighbor in this situation, consider having the dog on leash and in a head halter to increase the margin of safety.

When a meter reader or other worker needs to enter your yard, the best thing to do usually is to put your dog inside. If the dog can see the worker through the window, call the dog away from the window and praise and pet the dog for coming to you. Then you may want to add a treat or brief game with a favorite toy. Do this over and over until the dog either leaves the viewing post or stops making any noise at all when watching the worker.

If you simply cannot get your dog to calm down with the view of the worker through the window, cut off the dog’s view out that window. One way to do this is by confining the dog in another room. Otherwise, this situation could cause a dog to have a potentially dangerous arousal level when the dog comes face to face with the worker.

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The dog allowed to get worked up over the sight of the worker might later react to people who look or dress like that worker or to other people who enter the yard. The dog then has a behavior problem that could have been avoided and may result in someone getting hurt. It puts limitations on your enjoyment of your dog and where you can go and what you can do together. It’s so much easier to prevent the problem in the first place.

Sometimes you may be available to work your dog on-leash in the area with the worker, where the dog will not disturb or endanger the worker. This is a great opportunity to control your dog’s attention with movements and treats, and build a positive attitude in your dog toward people who come to your place to perform services.

Opportunities like this are solid gold if you’re able to use them to full advantage.

But remember the goal is to keep the dog reacting positively to the worker. Any sign of fear or aggression from the dog is a setback.

If you have multiple dogs and want to work with them around a visiting worker, confine all but one dog and work only one at a time, on leash and under your complete control. Someone who has come to your house to perform a service should not be expected to deal with loose dogs, more than one dog on leash with you (except in emergency), or a dog out of control. Don’t put anyone at risk. Your dog is the one who suffers the most if a human gets hurt, but it’s darned expensive for you, too. Utility companies have good lawyers.

Sadly there are people who steal dogs out of yards for various reasons, and an unsupervised dog is at risk from this, too. If the idea is for big, protective Rex to protect himself from thieves, how exactly is he to know the difference between a thief and anyone else? In situations like this, it’s usually not a thief who gets bitten, but quite often someone else does. The best protection role for a dog to play in your backyard is simply to bark and alert you when something requires your notice. For that to work, of course you need to be supervising.

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Other Hazards Some people consider feces-eating a behavior problem, though it’s actually more of a management issue. The most reliable solution is to keep feces picked up from the yard and closely supervise the dog outdoors until the habit fades. It also helps to provide a reward for the dog who turns quickly away from the feces and comes on your call.

Digging in the yard is another behavior common in dogs left outside unsupervised.

You can redirect your dog from digging if you’re supervising. You can also create a digging place for the dog and teach the dog to dig there instead of in your flowerbed.

Eating other things in the yard can be a lot more dangerous than feces eating, and again this is likely to respond only to supervision. Some neighbors will feed or even poison unattended dogs over the fence with the potential for deadly results. Dogs also commonly eat rocks and other things that have to be removed surgically.

Fencing your dog’s exercise yard back from the property line fence can make it easier to provide the dog with a cleaner and safer enclosure for elimination and a little exercise.

Many dogs jump over or dig under fences to exit the yard. A sufficiently determined dog can defeat almost any fence. This habit may start for a number of reasons, including the dog being left outside without you during thunderstorms or fireworks.

An intact dog, male or female, may begin leaving the yard when dogs in the area are in heat. Once the roaming behavior starts, it easily becomes a strong habit.

Dogs lose their homes due to habitual roaming. It’s hard to be responsible for a dog you can’t reliably keep home. Your best bet is to supervise the dog in the yard and prevent the roaming habit from ever starting. Punishment does not work to solve this problem. Supervision is the key.

Backyard Heaven Your own fenced back yard is a wonderful refuge for your dog when you’re supervising to keep the dog safe. This is a place the dog can go several times a day with minimal effort from you. A backyard means plenty of chances for your dog to eliminate, which makes house-training easier at all stages of life. It means a place to stretch out and run around a bit. This opportunity helps dogs to unwind and get along better with other family members.

Dog care is easier when you have a fenced yard of your own. You can do all sorts of training and have tons of fun with your dog in you yard. It is a little spot of backyard heaven.

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Thursday, February 21, 13

Breakfast at Ginger's

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Cooking with Ginger

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QBSL! pg!uif!

NPOUI

McAllen Texas

Thursday, February 21, 13

After four years of pleading by local residents the city of McAllen, Texas finally got their longed for dog park in the Rio Grande Valley area. This is the first dog park for the city and hopefully not the last.

The new park is split into two areas - one for small dogs and one for large. It also serves as a storm water retention facility improving drainage to fifty homes in the neighborhood. There is also a walking trail around the outside.

The facility will feature all the accouterments of typical dog parks including a fence, a unit that disposes bags for cleaning up waste and even water fountains for dogs. And it will be lighted, so park-goers can visit in the evening. That is a great facility not available in many dog parks. Generally they are only open dawn to dusk.

Half the property where the park is located was already owned by the city.

The other half was donated by Shell, which used to have a gas well there.

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McAllen Dog Park is located at Tamarack and N. 5th St. McAllen, Texas 78501 Hours are 6am to 11pm every day (lighted after dark). http://mcallendogpark.ning.com

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McAllen Dog Park - Sights and Sounds

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Thursday, February 21, 13

Jerky Treats

If you own a dehydrator this is a great, economical way to make jerky treats.

Jerky guns can be purchased online (here) or you could just spread over teflex sheets and then cut up when nearly dry. My dogs went bonkers for these! I made 3 times this amount which filled 5 dehydrator sheets.

1 lb of ground beef,(preferably grass-fed) (or turkey, chicken, lamb) 8 ozs of beef liver (or chicken liver) Chop the liver into pieces or whizz up briefly in blender.

Mix it in with the ground meat.

Scoop the meat into the jerky gun and squeeze the meat mixture onto the sheets of your dehydrator.

Set the dehydrator at 165 degrees for about 3-4 hours, or until the meat is dry and crunchy.

If you don't have a dehydrator, spread the mixture on a greased baking sheet and bake at 250 degrees F for 4-6 hours.

Do not marinate the meat with any sauce such as soy sauce, etc. Dogs don't need to eat excess salt and trust me, they will love these treats just the way they are!

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CHICKEN COOKIES

1 lb chicken giblets ½ cup of the broth reserved from boiling the chicken giblets 3 tablespoon coconut oil 3 eggs, beaten 2 cups whole wheat flour 1 cup cornmeal In a large saucepan, bring 1 quart of water to a boil and cook chicken giblets.

In a blender, combine the cooked giblets, Âź cup of stock, olive oil and eggs.

Blend until the ingredients are mixed but still a little chunky.

Pour mixture into a large mixing bowl and add in the flour and cornmeal.

Drop spoonfuls of the mixture onto greased cookie sheets and bake at 450 degrees F for 20 minutes.

Keep the cookies in the freezer and take out as needed.

They can be stored for up to three days in the refrigerator.

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veggie treats

2 1/2 cups rice flour or brown rice flour 1 cup cooked vegetables (winter squashes, zucchini, or sweet potatoes) 1 tsp dried parsley 6 tbsp low sodium, low fat vegetable broth 1/2 cups cold water Preheat oven to 350F Mix together all ingredients.

Form into small patties and bake for 25 minutes.

Feed to your dog up to a week and freeze leftovers.

Kidney and liver disease diet restrictions:

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If your dog has kidney disease, it should be fed a low phosphorus diet. Vegetables that are low in phosphorus include: squashes, zucchini, and sweet potatoes.

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For dogs with liver disease or chronic pancreatic disease, they are not restricted to flour or phosphorus. However, its important to limit fat intake. These biscuits are perfect for them since they do not contain fat or animal protein.

When you see this you will want one too!

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Mini dachshund LOVES hot tub!

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Thank you for reading this issue of Dog Park Magazine.

We hope you enjoyed it as much as we enjoyed putting it together for you. We would love to hear from you with feedback, comments, stories and photos.

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Thursday, February 21, 13