eat! berlin the gourmet festival – the magazin 2018

EAT! BERLIN KEEPING THE CITY COOKING FROM 23. FEBRUARY TO 4. MARCH 2018

TICKETS AT:

www.eat-berlin.de

PARTNER FÜR BERLIN.

Nachhaltig engagiert.

Seit 170 Jahren gibt uns unsere Stadt Energie für eine einzigartige unternehmerische Erfolgsgeschichte.

Wir bedanken uns, indem wir Verantwortung übernehmen. Deshalb unterstützen wir Menschen und Projekte, die den besonderen Geist Berlins ausmachen. Das gibt uns neue Energie, die wir für die Zukunft brauchen. Für die Stadt und ihre Menschen.

www.gasag.de/engagement

BEROLINA

SPANDAU (DEPOT)

FRIEDRICHSHAIN

MARIENFELDE

Beste Qualität aus der Region Erzeugnisse aus der Region stehen bei immer mehr Menschen hoch im Kurs. Nutzen Sie diesen Trend für Ihren Erfolg und bereichern Sie Ihre Küche mit regionalen Produkten, die Sie bei uns in großer Auswahl und bester Qualität finden! Auf kurzem Wege kommen viele Artikel aus dem Großraum Berlin direkt in unsere Märkte: schnell, frisch und zuverlässig. Davon profitieren Umwelt, Lieferanten und vor allem Sie als unsere Kunden. Punkten Sie mit Qualitätserzeugnissen aus unserer Region!

DE ABER NOCH KEIN KUN DER? EN GEWERBETREIB el m Jetzt an den: erden kundew www.metro.de/

www.metro.de

SCHÖNEFELD

EVENTS Fr. 23.2.

6

ZWEI AUF EINS – THE DINNERSHOW

6

The kickoff event at the eat! berlin gourmet festival 5-course menu, accompanying wines Microsoft Atrium

159,-

Ss. 24.2. & Su. 25.2.

8

THE NOSE KNOWS

8

Berlin ‚Cheese Days‘ at the Arminius Markthalle Arminius Markthalle per person / per day

5,-

Sa. 24.2.

10–14

PAINTING A ROSY PICTURE

10

International fine dining breakfast menu at Rose Garden 10-course breakfast menu with beverages Rose Garden 79,-

PÂTISSERIE CLASS WITH GABI TAUBENHEIM

11

The queen of desserts reveals her secrets Patisserie class with spicy breaks, accompanying wines Kochschule Club Culinaire

BIG IN BERLIN

169,-

Size does indeed matter Giant menu with accompanying wines Rotisserie Weingrün

THE PEARLS OF CLEOPATRA

Dinner on-stage with Frühsammers at the Komische Oper Several appetizer and courses, partly on the stage, accompanying wines and loge tickets Komische Oper Berlin

RETTSCHLAG MEETS JAUCH

12 99,-

13

179,-

14

Potsdam special – Weingut von Othegraven at Restaurant Juliette Multi-course menu, ccompanying wines Restaurant Juliette 169,-

Su. 25.2.

THOSE LONG SCHWABING NIGHTS

15–18 15

Tantris at Kreuzberg´s Nobelhart & Schmutzig 10 courses with 8 beverages, single origin coffee and spirits Speiselokal Nobelhart & Schmutzig 255,-

4

MARISCOS DE MARKUS

Andalusian Lunch at Schmelzwerk Seafood Lunch, accompaniyng wine Schmelzwerk in den Sarottihöfen

FRAU LUNA

16 69,-

17

Berlin operetta with culinary highlights Amuse bouche, 4-course menu, accompanying wines, operetta Tipi am Kanzleramt 139,-

SOULKITCHEN 18

Fete de la Cuisine at einfallsreich 12 small courses, with accompanying wines, live music einfallsreich Berlin 149,-

Mo. 26.2.

JOANNIS MALATHOUNIS

“Modern Greek Cuisine” visits Berlin 5-course menu, accompanying wines Restaurant Frühsammers

19–23 19 149,-

FOR CUT OUT

BERLIN, BERLIN – SO NICE YOU‘LL SAY IT TWICE

Top Chef Franz Berlin of Baden takes over the Schmugglerscheune 7-course menu, accompanying wines Altes Zollhaus

ラフ

Sebastian Frank and Franz Meilinger 7-course menu, accompanying wines, aperitif, water and coffee Restaurant Horváth

Tu. 27.2.

39

MANIA DI TARTUFO!

41

GIN-IE IN A BOTTLE

42

Potsdam special – Harald Rüssel and Nik Weis visit Bayrisches Haus Multi-course menu, accompanying wines Bayrisches Haus 149,-

20 149,-

21

A Threesome with Tim, Part 1: Tim Raue, Daniel Marg and Yoshizumi Nagaya at Sra Bua 6-course menu, accompaniment from Japan Sra Bua by Tim Raue 189,-

A TIGHT PAIR

WILD GAME, WILD WOODS AND WILD WEIS WINES

23 169,-

24–30

Truffle festival at La Banca with head chef Jörg Behrend and expert Massimo Ferradino 6-course truffle menu, accompanying wines Restaurant La Banca | Hotel de Rome 159,Unusual aromas abound in gin menu from star chefs Markus Semmler and Sascha Stemberg 6-course gin menu Markus Semmler “Das Restaurant”

169,-

Th. 1.3. & Fr. 2.3.

38

ON THE ROAD AGAIN

38

Felicitas Then keeps on (food) trucking 5-course menu, accompanying beverages Altes Pumpwerk 129,-

Fr. 2.3.

43–46

“GLANZ UND GLORIA” AT SPIEGELPALAST 24

劳 43

“DINNER AND A FLICK” AT THE ASTOR FILMLOUNGE

GRAND VINTNERS, GRAND WINES

45

HOMO AUSTRIACUS

46

Benefit Event for Stiftung KinderHerz at the Palazzo 5-course charity dinner, Palazzo show and auction, excl. beverages Palazzo Spiegelpalast 160,5 films, 5 courses, and 2 stars 5 films, 5 courses with 2 wines Astor Filmlounge

POOL POSITION

26 55,-

27

Great chefs can make magic with just water 5-course menu, accompanying wines Stadtbad Oderberger Straße 149,-

RADICALLY REGIONAL

A book, a movement, an evening 6-course menu, accompanying wines einfallsreich Berlin

SOUTHWEST GERMANY, LAND OF DELIGHTS

29 119,-

30

Haute cuisine from the homeland at the Baden-Württemberg representation Multi-course menu, accompanying wines Landesvertretung Baden-Württemberg 149,-

We. 28.2.

TRISTAN & TRISTAN

31–35 31

Two Michelin Stars, and five courses at the Museum of Natural Science 5-course menu, accompanying wines Natural History Museum 179,-

MONSIEUR RUGUEUX

A Threesome with Tim, Part 2: Tim Raue´s haute cuisine at Colette French menu, Champagne pairings Brasserie Colette Tim Raue

A FEAST FOR THE YEAST

33 185,-

34

Daniel Schmidthaler cooks a menu for the microorganisms 5-course menu, accompanying beverages Hotel am Steinplatz 99,-

THE TAGESSPIEGEL GOURMET EVENING

A blind date with chefs and vintners 6-course menu, accompanying wines Schmelzwerk in den Sarottihöfen

Th. 1.3.

CRUMBLE IN THE JUNGLE

35 129,-

37–42 37

Florian Glauert revives the cult location Cocktail reception, 5-course menu, accompanying wines Ellington Hotel Berlin 129,-

A Threesome with Tim, Part 3: Cantonese and Bordeaux at Restaurant Tim Raue 8-course menu, accompanying wines Restaurant Tim Raue 444,The award-winning Gault&Millau wine menu 6-course menu with moderation, accompanying awarded wines Restaurant sky tower | Select Hotel Berlin

129,Or: an epicure from the hills descends on Berlin 5-course menu, accompanying wines Restaurant Volt

Sa. 3.3.

129,-

47–59

CULINARY GUEST HOST: ISTRIA

47

FOR ADULTS ONLY!

49

CINÉMA CULINAIRE

53

TOUR DE CUISINE

55

HAPPY AS PIGS IN CLOVER

57

An ode to the peninsula´s unbelievable diversity Multi-course menu, accompanying wines Restaurant Rio Grande 129,The radioeins menu at AXICA 5-course menu, accompanying wines AXICA 139,Cult movie and cult dishes from all regions of France Reception with champagne, movie screening and 4-course menu, accompanying wines Centre Français de Berlin 119,-/25,“High Above” with Berlin star chefs 4 courses, accompanying wines in 4 restaurants over the roof tops of Berlin Waldorf Astoria Berlin 119,Potsdam special – Speckers Landhaus 4-course menu, accompanying wines Speckers Landhaus

BETWEEN HEAVEN AND HELL

Beatific Rieslings from the Rheingau‘s grape whisperer, Gunter Künstler 5-course menu, accompanying wines Schmidt Z&KO

Su. 4.3.

A ROUSING END…

Gala in the Waldorf Astoria Flying food and 5-course menu, accompanying wines Waldorf Astoria Berlin

99,-

59 129,-

60 60 169,-

FOREWORD DEAR READERS, Does anyone actually read forewords?

I‘ve always wondered. I personally only ever opened those from Kai Röger in his Tagesspiegel Genuss Magazin. He‘s just got the comedic touch. Mine, not so much. Because I only ever write about how well our festival is developing. And the truth isn‘t always the best straight man for comedy. So? Are you going to read it? Please feel free to send me your feedback at mahlzeit@eat-berlinfestival.de.

And since you asked, eat! berlin is coming along wonderfully. In 2016 Traveller’s World named us one of the world‘s ten best food festivals, and that really seemed to break some mental dam. People finally accepted that high-end culinary arts and a quality-minded lifestyle could indeed draw an interested audience to Berlin.

Might it simply be the case that Berlin doesn‘t need more tourists, just different ones? To be fair, Berlin is big enough for

everyone. We‘ve got hostels and districts that ooze cool. We‘ve got outstanding clubs and a full-scale hipster scene with lumberjack beards and man-buns.

the world with a stronger voice just what a lovely, fascinating and delicious place Berlin really is. We hope to hear your voice join in as well!

But we‘ve got much more to offer than just that! We‘ve got fantastic hotels, serious haute cuisine and a range of prize-winning restaurants with the passion – and free tabletops – to accommodate gourmet tourists. People who are willing to pay for the finer things tend to have consumption habits focused on quality and sustainability. These are the people eat! berlin is addressing, in Berlin and beyond, and you likely are one of these people as well. Otherwise you wouldn‘t be reading my foreword. If you read it at all, that is.

Coincidently, Mayor and Senator of Economy Ramona Pop clearly grasps the worth of Berlin‘s high-end restaurant scene. She is helping us project to

Best Bernhard Moser Festival Director

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Mieten können Sie bei uns fast alles Als Europas führender Non-Food-Caterer bieten wir neben Table Top, Design- und Lounge-Mobiliar, aktuelle Trends – wie unseren täglichen Spülservice, unsere individuellen Logistikkonzepte oder die 3D-Visualisierung für Ihre Eventplanung.

Nur unsere Beratung ist nicht zu vermieten, sondern inklusive. Ganz egal, ob Sie ein Catering durchführen, eine Messe ausstatten oder ein Restaurant betreiben - bei uns finden Sie das passende Equipment. Als Ihr professioneller Eventausstatter freuen wir uns auf Ihren Anruf.

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Telefon + 49 33203 2921 6

ZWEI AUF EINS – THE DINNERSHOW THE KICKOFF EVENT AT THE EAT! BERLIN GOURMET FESTIVAL

F

or many Berliners and Brandenburgers, Sunday morning is sacred. “2 auf Eins” (Two on One) on radioeins has been a cult favorite for over ten years now. Week after week, Sven Oswald and Daniel Finger pick a topic and explore it from every possible – and impossible – angle. This usually also involves interviews with well-known guests. Insect expert Dr. Mark Benecke, for example, is a popular guest when unappetizing topics arise. The exact opposite is true

6

Sven Oswald & Daniel Finger

Fr.

23.2.

5-course menu with accompanying wines Microsoft Atrium Unter den Linden 17 | entrance via Charlottenstraße | 10117 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

159,-

for Bernhard Moser, who is not only the director of this festival, but also the expert of choice on Zwei auf Eins when the topic is good food or wine. Physician and journalist Dr. Magnus Heier is also one of the most familiar voices on the broadcast. Each week Horst Evers regales listeners with one of his stories. The pair of hosts won‘t divulge to us the topic or guests for the evening.

Perhaps because they aren‘t sure themselves. Those radio folks do march to a different drummer.

Fotos: S. Oswald & D. Finger: © Ingo Gebhard, Foodfotos:© www.viktorstrasse.de, G. Taubenheim: © Thomas Haberland, N. Klauß: © Volker Wenzlawski, H. Evers: © Thomas Nitz / XiX

Gabi Taubenheim

Alexander Huber

Philipp Liebisch

of something different, a portion of the menu with alcohol-free beverages.

This section will be curated by Nicole Klauß, author of the book Die neue Trinkkultur (Westend Verlag). It‘s come to be considered a standard work for all restaurateurs looking to offer their guests thrilling alter­ natives on the drink menu.

What is certain are the chefs and vintners who will be enlivening the affair. Things will kick off with the gents from Fuchs + Gans Catering, who will have two or three hors d‘oeuvres as a reception. They‘re among the top caterers in the city, and we‘re quite curious to see what they‘ll work up to fit between thumb and forefinger. Star chef Alexander Huber from Huberwirt in Plaiskirchen, a member of the Jeunes Restaurateurs cooking association, and Philipp Liebisch

from Hotel bei Schumann in Kirschau will be up next. The desserts are the domain of one of the finest in discipline, Gabi Taubenheim from the Königshof in Munich (one star, 18 points in Gault&Millau). What a fantastic lineup.

The winemakers are from the premiere league of the VDP as well: we‘ll open with Weingut Prinz von Hessen and Johannes Leitz from Weingut Leitz in the

We‘ll also try the delicious OHDE Marzipan from Neukölln. The project itself is a commendable one, with profits flowing to a foundation that helps underprivileged kids qualify for university.

Rheingau. We also look forward to the wines from the Fürstlich Castell´sches Domänenamt in Franken and, for a bit

This opening event of the eat! berlin gourmet festival was recorded live in its entirety last year.

This year too TV broadcasters may well provide live images from the event.

Please only book if you don‘t have a problem being shown on live TV.

7

Nicole Klauß

Horst Evers

Gernot Karger, Thomas Nawroth & Elmar Karger

Magnus Heier

THE NOSE KNOWS

BERLIN ‚CHEESE DAYS‘ AT THE ARMINIUS MARKTHALLE

T 8

he Arminius-Markthalle in Berlin‘s Tiergarten district is one of Germany‘s most captivating gourmet market hall experiences – and has of late developed into a favorite for wine aficionados as well. A growing number of fans from Germany and beyond have come to consider the historical building as one of the capital‘s burgeoning culinary hot spots. On this weekend in February the hall will once again be filled with Michaela Freier and Samuel Zach‘s selection of top international frommeliers, ripening experts, cheese producers, winemakers and vendors.

These eat! berlin Cheese Days will be a “curated pleasure,” meaning that we‘ll be recommending a number of notto-be-missed items. Try cheese plates with selected varieties from throughout Europe, from mild French Brie and hearty Pecorino from Italy to rich mountain cheese from Switzerland or the Allgäu. Our selections will also of course include suitable vino accompaniments from various European wine regions. Those willing to open their mind and taste buds may well discov-

Opening Hours Berliner Cheese Days

Sa. 24.2. 11:00 am – 11:00 pm Su. 25.2. 10:00 am – 4:00 pm Arminius Markthalle Bugenhagenstr. 19 (entrance) Arminiusstraße 2-4 (entrance) 10551 Berlin

per person per day

5,-

er new favorite cheeses and wines to bring home.

As in years past, the Markthalle‘s stands – from the Alsatian restaurant and the trattoria to Austrian-themed Beisl – will have exclusive Cheese Day menus in store. It‘s the perfect opportunity to eat your way through food from around the world at this Moabit institution.

On both days visitors to the exclusive eat! berlin zone can also enjoy brunch to live music, featuring an extensive range of cheeses from our exhibitors.

The buffet will also contain warm and cold dishes from the farm and fish counters, three kinds of cheese spätzle, fruit, muesli and salad, sausage specialties and smoked salmon, omelets, cake, coffee, tea and much more. And, of course, bottomless prosecco refills.

There‘s more to cheese than just savory. Farmer‘s cheese, quark and curd cheese, implemented in a variety of cakes and desserts, will all be on hand to sweeten your day. There‘ll also be a cheesecake competition with prizes in two categories, professional and amateur. We look forward to tasting your best, whether it‘s grandma‘s secret recipe or a classic New York cake. As long as it‘s got cheese.

Our heartfelt thanks go to Jörg Vogelsänger, the Minister for Infrastructure and Agriculture in Brandenburg, for serving as the patron for our Berlin Cheese Days, and for joining us at the opening on 24 February.

Fotos: Käsefoto Mitte: © Julia Kneuse , J. Vogelsänger: © Oliver Lang – SPD Brandenburg

Children under 12 are free. No other discounts are offered.

9

Saturday and Sunday: Markthallen Matinée From 10:00 am to 2:00 pm visitors to the exclusive eat! berlin zone can enjoy a relaxed brunch. Our exhibitors will be providing an exclusive selection of cheeses as part of the extensive brunch offerings. (€34.00 per person, children from 4 to 15 cost €15.00) For up-to-date information about exhibitors, admission tickets and the Markthallen Brunch, please visit: www.eat-berlin.de

Jörg Vogelsänger

Danijel Kresovic

PAINTING A ROSY PICTURE INTERNATIONAL FINE DINING BREAKFAST MENU IN THE ROSE GARDEN

We at eat! berlin acknowledge that it‘s time to address this topic… and not, as sadly too often is the case, with an­ other brunch buffet stocked with meat products from discount supermarkets.

We want a breakfast menu of champions. What better partner than Danijel Kresovic? You might know this worldclass chef from the Swissôtel, where he seemingly effortlessly earned two toques, or from the restaurant Schlosshotel Grunewald, where he earned them

10

Sa.

24.2.

10-course breakfast menu with beverages Rose Garden Alte Schönhauser Straße 61 | 10119 Berlin Admission: 10:00 am | Start: 10:30 am

79,again. At the Rose Garden in Berlin Mitte, Kresovic and his team will be gracing the tables with a fantastic 10-course breakfast menu. The team at the Rose Garden could hardly be more international: Cro-

atia, Mexico, Spain, Japan and many other countries are represented. Draw­ing on this diverse base, Kresovic will guide us on a fascinating journey through various breakfast cultures from around the world.

Love and health – that‘s the philosophy at the Rose Garden. Rose stands for a love of the product, while the garden represents the freshness of the ingredients. Kresovic loves to create unusual and sensual dishes with ingredients drawn from around the world. Many are vegetarian or vegan. When working behind the stove, he‘s not afraid to let his guests see where the magic is made.

The open kitchen concept provides a free view of his labors. Originally hailing from Croatia, Kresovic has always been a champion of the freshest and lightest cuisine, with the terrace of the Swissôtel quickly turned into a wonderful herb garden during his time there. His preference for all things green and fresh will almost certainly be in evidence in one or more of the breakfast courses. But he‘ll also pay his due to the meat and fish lovers in the Fine Dining breakfast crowd, with a lovely glass of sparkling wine to wash it down. What better start to the weekend could there possibly be?

Our media partner “Tagesspiegel” has already declared that they‘ve got a small surprise in store on this morning. After all, a good daily is an essential part of any fine breakfast.

Fotos: © Ricarda Spiegel

I

t‘s hard to underestimate just how sacred breakfast is to a true Berliner.

There‘s not a guidebook on the market that fails to mention just how much the German capital, more than any other metropolis in the world, loves this specific meal.

PÂTISSERIE CLASS WITH GABI TAUBENHEIM THE QUEEN OF DESSERTS REVEALS HER SECRETS

F Fotos: Dessert oben: © Thomas Schauer, G. Taubenheim: © Thomas Haberland, Dessert unten: © Klaus Einwanger

or many gourmets, the culmination of any fine meal is the dessert. Their enthusiasm, however, is rarely shared by executive chefs. Desserts are just too demanding and intricate to make, requiring not just talent, but also tremendous precision. To their great relief, fine dining directors know they can rely on their pâtissier – or even more likely, the pâtissière, as a surprising number of women have claimed this foothold in the otherwise male-dominated world of high-end kitchens.

One of the stars of her craft is Gabi Taubenheim, Pâtissière at the famed Munich star restaurant Königshof, where she has worked together with head chef Martin Fauster for ten years now.

Her dedication and skill helped her establish the pâtisserie as a key component in the gourmet kitchen at Königshof. There are reportedly even guests who come first and foremost for Taubenheim’s artisanal desserts, including “Pineapple Ravioli with Frozen Coconut Milk, Tapioca and Crudo Chocolate,” “Wild Pan Crêpes with Raspberry Ice Cream” and “Flying Cheesecake.” Her creations will be familiar to anyone who loves good food, even if they’ve never had the pleasure of sitting down at Königshof. Mouthwatering photos of her work are routinely showcased in major gourmet magazines.

Which is why we‘re quite proud to have convinced Gabi Taubenheim to offer an exclusive pâtisserie class for eat! berlin at Charlottenburg’s Club Culinaire. The famed pâtissière will be pulling back the curtain on several tried-and-tested recipes, showing participants the sweetest tricks

Sa.

24.2.

Only 1 2 tickets !

Patisserie class with spicy breaks and accompanying wines Kochschule Club Culinaire Otto-Suhr-Allee 94 | 10585 Berlin Admission: 1:30 pm | Start: 2:00 pm

169,fresh from the fabled Königshof bakehouse. Concrete technique tips will be leavened with discussion of contrasting aromas and the art of using fine spices to achieve that special little twist to turn classic sweet dishes into outstanding desserts.

The four-and-a-half-hour course will include a sparkling wine reception during which Gabi Taubenheim will present the desserts. Several of the recipes are admittedly calorie-indulgent but unequivocally delicious: She’ll show how to make a Cake Pop Rose as a sweet, customizable gift idea, lay out Valrhona Chocolate with fine pomegranate foam, and serve up iced coffee with a spiced whipped cream topper and granité as well as “Gabi‘s Topfenschmarrn with Soaked Blood Oranges.” There will also be two “salty” courses to offer a bit of gustatory contrast and cleansing… all with appropriate wine pairings. And once your indoctrination in the handicraft produces its first set of culinary masterpieces: Don’t forget to take a photo before digging in.

Gabi Taubenheim

11

BIG IN BERLIN E 12

veryone marvels at and looks up to big people – maybe we just presume it‘s easy for them to keep an eye over things. Yes, big people have it easy… at least in the minds of short people. Everyday life, however, is not so kind: it can be hard to find the clothing that fit, low doorways are a potential hazard and then there‘s the ever-annoying questions of “how‘s the weather up there?” The same dynamic applies in daily restaurant life for the big boys of the wine bottle world – the magnums (1.5 liters), double magnums (3 liters), Balthazars (12 liters) and Solomons (20 liters). Yes, these giant glass jugs make for a nice bit of show, but practically speaking they are rarely actually uncorked.

This evening is different. Herbert Beltle, director of Rotisserie Weingrün, Altes Zollhaus and Aigner am Gendarmenmarkt, will be dusting off the big boys.

Guests will be treated to rare pours that, in many cases, have been sleeping peacefully for years in the cellars precisely because of their prodigious sizings.

Herbert Beltle

Sa.

Maria Groß

24.2.

Giant menu with accompanying wines Rotisserie Weingrün Gertraudenstraße 10 | 10178 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

99,The guest chef for the evening is a biggie in her field as well, and not just because her name means ‚large‘ in German: Maria Groß from Bachstelze restaurant in Erfurt was the first and, up until 2016, the only female Michelin star chef from the eastern part of Germany. She will be supported by the rotisserie team from the Restaurant an der Friedrichsgracht, who are old hands at turning Berlin‘s finest roast chicken and

Duroc pork bellies on their impressive flame grill. As befits the theme, hefty chunks of meat will be landing on the skewers on this night. Whole suckling pig and bountiful rib-eye steaks are prime suspects, but these grillmeisters love their work and are open to experimentation. Maybe it‘s time to see whether an entire swordfish will fit on the spit. Gesumino Pireddu, known as the “Master of the Knife,” will be butchering the beasts. During his time as the maître at Margaux, he wowed guests aplenty with his skill with filleting and carving blades. He is one of the great artisans of his craft, and in 2017 earned our “Förderer der Genusskultur” (Champion of Gourmet Culture) award.

Big is beautiful on this night, including for our guests: All female guests 1.80 meters and above and all male guests topping 1.90 meters will receive a special gift. A big gesture for big guests, on a big evening, right?

Foto H. Beltle: © Amin Akhtar

SIZE DOES INDEED MATTER

Dagmar Manzel in “Die Perlen der Cleopatra”

THE PEARLS OF CLEOPATRA DINNER ON-STAGE WITH FRÜHSAMMERS AT THE KOMISCHE OPER

A

Foto oben: © Iko Freese / drama-berlin.de

t least one event at eat! berlin 2017 was like something out of a fairy tale: ten lucky guests started with an accomplished performance of the bright and buoyant operetta “Snow White and the 77 Dwarfs” at the Komische Oper. After the curtain‘s fall, the selected few were treated to a fine menu of seven (dwarf) courses conjured up by Michelin-star chef Sonja Frühsammer , including perfect wine pairings from her husband Peter Frühsammer.

As the evening‘s festivities drew to a close, one thing was clear to all involved: an encore was required. Tickets for this event sold out in just 2 (!) minutes.

With the support of the wonderful team at the Komische Oper, a suitable piece was soon identified for this year. “Die Perlen der Cleopatra” by Oscar Straus (no relation to the master of the waltz) is a forgotten little gem from the Golden Twenties, with plenty of atmosphere, catchy tunes, jazz and irreverent Berlin humor. Under the baton of Artistic Director Barrie Kosky, the piece was revived at the Komische Oper in December 2016, almost 90 years after its initial run. The piece‘s composer and librettist were both Jewish and so the piece was banned by the Nazis before fading into obscurity.

Sixteen fortunate souls will take their seats directly on the stage and partake in this year‘s multicourse feast, for which Sonja Frühsammer will be drawing inspi-

Sa.

24.2.

Only 1 6 tickets !

Several appetizer and courses, partly on stage, with accompanying wines and loge tickets Komische Oper Berlin Behrenstraße 55–57 | 10117 Berlin Start: 6:00 pm

179,Peter & Sonja Frühsammer

ration from the performance‘s themes.

The meal will take place amidst the operetta‘s scenic backdrops, which the visitors will have already seen in action from our private box. We‘ll then meet at 6 pm, find our spots and commence with the gourmet fun. Peter Frühsammer is more than just an innovative sommelier; he was one of the first top chefs in Berlin, and one of the first to earn a star as well.

He‘ll be delivering a few well-timed hors d‘oeuvres and then the first course, and of course suitable liquid accompaniment. We certainly hope that it‘s not the titular drink from the operetta: the Egyptian queen famously drank a pearl that had been dissolved in vinegar.

The libretto from “The Pearls of Cleopatra” is easily explained: the Nile is drying out, the Romans are at the gates to the city and the locals are growing restless.

The eccentric Egyptian queen, played by

the grand Dagmar Manzel, is also suffering from a lack of manpower and has to work quickly to get out of this mess.

There‘s plenty of the famed Berlin attitude, parodies of operas such as Aida and saucy dance scenes.

Oscar Straus‘ operetta actually saw its premiere in Vienna in 1923, but traveled a year later to the Komische Oper in Berlin, where it was a massive success.

Cleopatra was played in those days by famed singer Fritzi Massary; a young, still unknown actor named Hans Albers played the Roman general Marcus Antonius. Its popularity among Berliners may have reflected the “Egyptomania” gripping the nation at that time: the famous bust of Queen Nefertiti had only recently been put on exhibition on the city‘s Museum Island.

13

Christian Weber & Carsten Rettschlag

Günther Jauch

RETTSCHLAG MEETS JAUCH B

erlin wouldn‘t be quite as handsome without its beautiful neighbor Potsdam. Just ask any of the million or so visitors to Berlin who also visit Potsdam‘s gorgeous castles and parks. For many, it‘s not just an excursion, it‘s a mission. Berliners themselves rarely travel to Potsdam, which is why the organizers behind eat! berlin felt it was high time to use some gourmet bait to lure them across the Havel River. Three events will underscore Potsdam‘s culinary prowess, and perhaps even awaken enduring interest in heading “out there” a bit more frequently.

14

Many prominent figures live in Potsdam, so what better way to start the “Potsdam Special” series than with one of its most high-profile inhabitants and the owner of a face that almost everyone knows from TV? Günther Jauch is one of Germany‘s most beloved talk show hosts, and can look back on a truly remarkable career.

This starts first and foremost with his seemingly effortless skill as a showmaster. But how about his skill as a winemaker? Jauch owns the prestigious Wein­ gut von Othegraven estate, and on this evening will be presenting bottles of his fine German wine at Restaurant Juliette, one of the finest addresses in Potsdam.

There he‘ll meet with Carsten Rettschlag and his team, who will look to show that the establishment‘s French-inspired cuisine is the perfect pairing for Jauch‘s wines. French cuisine against German wine? Is that a fair fight? Absolutely!

Sa.

24.2.

Multi-course menu with accompanying wines Restaurant Juliette Jägerstraße 39 | 14467 Potsdam Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

169,Among winegrowers, Jauch has earned an excellent reputation. Weingut von Othegraven, which he and his wife Thea acquired in 2010, is one of the finest winegrowing estates on the Saar and a founding member of the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP).

The Kanzemer Altenberg is the crown jewel and flagship for the estate, and is

not just one of the steepest, but also one of the most extendedly steep vineyards (250 m) in the world. Its orientation, slate soil and micro-climate all contribute to its ranking as the crème de la crème.

Günther Jauch takes those remarkable conditions and produces world-class Rieslings that are afforded ample time for maturing in the cellar and in the bottle.

Rettschlag, the “2014 Brandenburg Meisterkoch” is dispatching his souschef Christian Weber with a menu carefully selected just for the evening‘s fray. The historic 17th-century half-timbered house promises a wonderful atmosphere for the event, with both chef and wine ready to prove the worthiness of their claim. Although we‘re actually pretty sure that the congenial Günther Jauch will breezily foster a conversation between his wines and the fine fare at Juliette… to the gustatory delight of all present.

Fotos Weingut von Othegraven & Günther Jauch: © Weingut von Othegraven

POTSDAM SPECIAL – WEINGUT VON OTHEGRAVEN AT RESTAURANT JULIETTE

THOSE LONG SCHWABING NIGHTS

Billy Wagner

TANTRIS AT KREUZBERG´S NOBELHART & SCHMUTZIG

Fotos: oben links: © Marko Seifert, B. Wagner: © Sophie Kichert, H. Haas und S. Schelling: © Mike Krüger, M. Schäfer: © Sara Reuter

H

ans Haas , the widely revered two-star chef from Munich‘s Tantris restaurant, will be visiting the visionary of the Berlin gastro scene, the wildly creative and original Billy Wagner of trendy Nobelhart & Schmutzig (one Michelin star). On paper, this looks like a collision of contradictory worlds. Yet the two have a lot more in common than you‘d think. The Berlin sommelier is a tremendous admirer of Haas, who started focusing on regionally inspired cuisine all the way back in 1991. Billy Wagner has also been an acquaintance of Felix Eichbauer, the current director of Tantris, for many years. The Munich fine dining establishment set modern German gourmet cuisine into motion 46 years ago. Host Billy Wagner’s Nobelhart & Schmutzig, working with chef Micha Schäfer , not only laid out a similar “vocally local” philosophy, but also drove their daring concept to a world-class level.

So less a collision than a meeting of like minds: The kitchen team at Nobelhart & Schmutzig will be welcoming Hans Haas and his sous-chef Sigi Schelling for a special evening in Berlin. Together they’ll be presenting a menu that perfectly combines the French-inspired cuisine of Tantris with the new German cuisine of Micha Schäfer, for whom it is not just a point of honor, but a life mission to know every supplier and producer personally.

The founder of Tantris, a developer named Fritz Eichbauer, loved gourmet

Micha Schäfer

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10 courses with 8 beverages, single origin coffee and spirits Speiselokal Nobelhart & Schmutzig Friedrichstraße 218 | 10969 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

255,French cooking and was annoyed that Munich didn’t have any restaurants to scratch his itch. In 1971 he commissioned Swiss architect Justus Dahinden to design the restaurant. Today that edifice is historically protected. Eichbauer convinced Austrian chef Eckart Witzigmann to manage the kitchen of this stylish and unusual new establishment. Just three years later the restaurant already had two Michelin stars. “Tantris shaped multiple generations of cooks and restaurateurs,” gushes Billy Wagner, who stands in awe of Eichbauer‘s consistency. Eichbauer´s favorite quote: “I could have taken all the money I‘ve sunk into Tantris and bought myself a castle. But then where would I have eaten?”

For Billy Wagner, the encounter with the Eichbauer family was unforgettable for other reasons as well: “I first got to know Felix, the younger Eichbauer, while vis-

Sigi Schelling

iting Dominik Huber, a former potager from Munich who was now running the Terroir al Limit estate in the lovely Catalonia district of Priorat. My experience with the wines there represented a Eureka moment for me, when a fundamental part of my understanding of wine fell into place.” You have to pay attention to where the grapes grow, he says, because good wine can only come from good soil. “Our wines have to be fine, deep and animating, and complexity is welcome too,” he feels. “But they should taste good, and drinkability also plays an enormous role.”

The binds between the Berlin and Munich factions were further deepened when the Eichbauers purchased the Podere Salicutti estate from well-regarded enologist Francesco Leanza. They had been customers of the estate for decades, as had Billy Wagner, who had prized its exceptional brunelli since his earliest days as a sommelier. And so: eight wines, including two wines from Podere Salicutti, to accompany the planned ten-course menu.

A note to guests: Please be sure to let the hosts know of any allergies or sensitivities in advance. And, if for reasons all your own, you wish to abstain from beer and wine, the hosts are happy to provide quality alcohol-free beverages instead.

The evening will take place around Nobelhart & Schmutzig‘s fabled counter and great table. Spots will be assigned based on when payment is received.

Hans Haas

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MARISCOS DE MARKUS A 16

ndalusian recipes dominate the massive Sunday lunch at Schmelz­werk in den Sarottihöfen that Markus Herbicht is preparing for eat! berlin. Not surprising: it’s a part of Spain where the locals eat anything that creeps or swims in the sea.

The Spanish call their beloved seafood Mariscos. And while few people are likely to mistake Herbicht for a common Spanish fishmonger, he feels comfortable declaring: “Spain and its seafood are part of my culinary DNA.” In the late 90s he served as chef de cuisine for the Kempinski resort in Estepona, a city in southern Spain.

Guests can expect outstanding courses characteristic of a Sunday family lunch with gambas, almejas and pulpo. A medley of the most favoured seafood, Arroz de Málaga, salads and vegetables the Andalusian way, and – of course – Aioli alongside fine wines from the Iberian Peninsula served by a fantastic team.

The location for this event is something special as well: The “Sarotti Chocoladen und Cacao Aktiengesellschaft” started producing fine Berlin chocolate in 1883, unveiling their famous “Sarotti-Mohren” logo in 1918. Today the historically pro-

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Seafood Lunch with accompaniyng wine Schmelzwerk in den Sarottihöfen Mehringdamm 55 | 10961 Berlin Admission: 11:30 am | Start: 12:00 pm

69,-

the royal family, and after his time in Spain he served in a directorial role at Käfer in Munich and Borchardt in Berlin.

He has tended to the culinary needs of many luminaries, including politicians such as Angela Merkel, Gerhard Schröder and Ronald Reagan and entertainment stars such as Madonna and Michael Jackson. Since 2011 his firm Markus Herbicht Catering has handled high-carat events such as the Berlin Aids gala and Borussia Dortmund‘s Bundesliga championship celebration.

tected buildings of the Sarotti Höfe are home to a family-run hotel, a lovely cafe and the event rooms of Schmelzwerk in the former chocolate production space, including a chic bar and lavish cele­ bration room.

Globetrotter Markus Herbicht has engaged with many different world cuisines and continues to draw on that experience today, the head of Schmelzwerk says. As a young sous-chef, the Saarland native worked in Johan Lafer’s Michelin star restaurant Le Val d‘Or before traveling to see the wider world. In Thailand, Herbicht spent three years cooking for

Markus Herbicht

Fotos: oben: © Viktorija – stock.adobe.com, M. Herbicht: © Claudia Konerding

ANDALUSIAN LUNCH AT SCHMELZWERK

Scene Operetta “Frau Luna”

Fotos: oben: © Barbara Braun, F. Glauert: © Ricarda Spiegel, A. Koppe: © Georg Roske, A. Dressel: © Florian Hammerich, T. Raue: © Kai-Uwe Heinrichs/Tagesspiegel, S. Schanz: © The Ritz-Carlton, Berlin

FRAU LUNA BERLIN OPERETTA WITH CULINARY HIGHLIGHTS

D

as macht die Berliner Luft, Luft, Luft…” – if you‘ve ever seen “Frau Luna,” the famous operetta by Berlin composer Paul Lincke, you‘ll probably find yourself singing along. Saucy melodies, a charming circus tent in Tiergarten, a fantastic troupe of actors and the artistry of several outstanding chefs: the perfect recipe for a musical/culinary evening at eat! berlin.

The Tipi am Kanzleramt takes off into the Berlin Operetta heaven and five world-class chefs from Berlin will be presenting classic Berlin-Brandenburg dishes from the turn of the century. Florian Glauert from DUKE in the ELLINGTON HOTEL will be serving hors d’oeuvres during the Champagne hour. This will be followed by the first course from Alexander Koppe of the Michelin-starred Skykitchen. The intermediate course will come courtesy of Alexander Dressel of Potsdam‘s Friedrich Wilhelm, a starred restaurant, while the main course will come from Berlin’s most famous 2-star chef Tim Raue , who will be dishing out his renowned Königsberger Klopse.

Florian Glauert

Alexander Koppe

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Amuse bouche and 4-course menu with accompanying wines and operetta Tipi am Kanzleramt Große Querallee | 10557 Berlin Admission: 4:30 pm | Start: 5:30 pm

139,Book by mail: tickets@tipi-amkanzleramt.de

Book by phone: +49 (0)30 3906 6550

And then it‘s curtains up for Frau Luna and its story of Fritz Steppke, a clever Berlin chap who has a dream of flying to the moon. With the help of his friends Pannecke and Lämmermeier he builds a high-altitude balloon that make them the first humans in history to visit earth‘s satellite. There they encounter Frau Luna and her court amidst a rollicking feast with Mars and Venus, who are there for a visit. The moon elves dance, the lunar

Alexander Dressel

band plays its jazz and various hearts find targets of desire, leading to the famous song “Schenk mir doch ein kleines bisschen Liebe”. The audience comes to realize that whether it‘s up on the moon or down here in Berlin, everything revolves around one thing.

With the aid of main sponsor GASAG and LOTTO-Stiftung, a cultural promotion fund, the Berlin-operetta, produced by Bernd Mottl, returned to Berlin’s stages in 2016 and will reopen on January, 11th 2018.

Berliners are thrilled to see the names associated with the main roles, all beloved members of the Bar Jeder Vernunft family: The Geschwister Pfister, Cora Frost, Ades Zabel, Sharon Brauner and Mssrs.

Pigor & Eichhorn, as well as friends of the house such as Katharina Thalbach or Gustav Peter Wöhler.

Dessert comes during the intermission, before the flight to the moon in the second half. Just what treats are in store from Sabrina Schanz, lead pâtissière at the Ritz-Carlton, remains a secret, but we suspect that the famous Berlin air, air, air will somehow play a role…

Tim Raue

Sabrina Schanz

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Christoph Hauser, Matthias Gleiß, Astrid North (hinten), Katja Grünebaum, Arne Anker, Michael Schulz (v. li.)

SOULKITCHEN FETE DE LA CUISINE AT EINFALLSREICH

Y

ou will always find me in the kitchen at parties – Jona Lewie famously sang back in the 80s.

He was right. The best spot at events and soirées really is the kitchen. Every guest eventually swings by to get some food and drink. Position yourself near the source, and you get to meet everyone and catch a bit of every conversation. Why not just move the whole concert into the kitchen, mused Katja Grünebaum, a passionate event organizer. Not long after she started inviting bands and singers to appear at her trendy event location in Charlottenburg.

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Her space einfallsreich can host rough­ ly 70 guests, all with a view of the industrial-grade kitchen. It‘s a relaxed place to meet some of the stars of the New Berlin Cuisine, each of whom on this night will be treating guests to a dish.

Definite yeses include Michael Kempf

Fritz Blomeyer & David Arnold

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12 small courses with accompanying wines and live music einfallsreich Berlin Leibnizstraße 38 | 10625 Berlin Admission: 4:30 pm | Start: 5:00 pm

149, of Facil, Arne Anker of Pauly Saal, Matthias Gleiß from Volt, Christoph Hauser from Herz & Niere Restaurant Michael Schulz from Golvet and Tobias Gunter from Strandbad Mitte, already a familiar face at einfallsreich. Desserts will come courtesy of Kai Michels whose Pâtisserie Jubel deserves every ounce of the tremendous

praise it receives, and cheese guru Fritz Lloyd Blomeyer, who supplies the Berlin gastronome market with artisanally produced German cheeses. „Things are going to be completely relaxed,“ says Katja Grünebaum. “No seating plan, no reservations. We want the guests to simply make themselves at home in our space. The evening will be about the joy of excellent foods, and about fantastic people from the restaurant scene and their stories. The spotlight will be on good moods and lots of music.” Hostess supreme Katja Grünebaum has elicited a trio of consummate professionals to assist with the wine and service: Gunnar Tietz (Grand Cru Select), who many will remember from his time as head sommelier at First Floor; David Arnold, who runs a wine agency by the same name; and experienced sommelière Silke Gau from the French-centric Restaurant Lamazère.

A few surprise guests from Berlin‘s gastro scene can also be expected.

Songwriter Fabian Haupt, who set the mood musically at last year‘s kitchen party, and Astrid North, the ex-singer of the Cultured Pearls and one of the loveliest soul voices in Berlin, will keep spirits high. As the hour grows late, DJ Jan will lay down dance music – the only canned thing from the whole evening, we promise!

Joannis Malathounis

JOANNIS MALATHOUNIS “MODERN GREEK CUISINE” VISITS BERLIN

R

estaurant Malathounis is world‘s sole Greek restaurant outside Greece itself to boast a Michelin star.

“Der Feinschmecker” magazine takes a more reserved approach, calling it ‚merely‘ the best Greek restaurant in Germany. Anna and Joannis Malathounis , known as the founders and champions of “modern Greek cuisine,” run this extraordinary establishment in the Rems Valley region of southern Germany. Joannis Malathounis‘ culinary roots reach back to his old homeland, with classic recipes tweaked into a beguiling mix of simple Greek fare and internationally inspired haute cuisine.

Malathounis runs an authentic Mediterranean kitchen, where he can work with his own version of classic marinated grape leaves, yogurt, feta cheese and olives, as well as fish and seafood. He then enriches those recipes with fresh regional ingredients, creating cross-over masterpieces such as “Octopus Duet,” cooked in mussel stock together with Moroccan flat beans, Swabian broccoli and Kalamata olives. Or Malathounis‘ favorite dessert, “Olive Oil Chocolate,” served with figs and a hazelnut meringue. Even Retsina wine has a spot in his cuisine, in the beurre blanc that he serves alongside his grape leaves stuffed with rice, dill and Corinth raisins.

“Like the earth‘s blood,” Udo Jürgens‘ famous song croons in praise of Greek wine. Almost everyone knows Retsina.

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5-course menu with accompanying wines Restaurant Frühsammers Flinsberger Platz 8 | 14193 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

149,-

Christos Tziolis

But what about Malagousia, Assyrtiko, Vlachiko and Xinomavro? These varieties have been taken up by a new generation of Greek winemakers, who are

now making fantastic wines that are almost un­ known in Germany. These native Greek vines benefit from a wide range of soils, including clay, granite and volcanic stone. The diversity of the Grecian landscapes is matched only by the diversity of its wines and winegrowing regions, which span a huge range of climatic conditions – from the land‘s many Mediterranean islands to the 1000-meter peaks of the Pindus mountains. The new Greek winegrowers are revitalizing their country‘s traditional cultivation and cellaring techniques, leavened with new insights that many winemakers gathered while studying abroad. Popular international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot are also currently being made into impressive wines… and, of course, there is Retsina, which we personally feel is unfairly belittled.

Sonja and Peter Frühsammer, who will be opening up their kitchen to Joannis Malathounis on this evening, are themselves curious to see what exotic dishes he will be conjuring up from his favorite ingredients. The wine menu is being handled by Christos Tziolis, who runs the Cava wine shop in Charlottenburg and who is known as THE source for information on trends in the Greek wine scene. He will be hand picking a range of bottles to help dispel the clichés and stereotypes surrounding Greek wine.

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BERLIN, BERLIN – SO NICE YOU‘LL SAY IT TWICE

TOP CHEF FRANZ BERLIN OF BADEN TAKES OVER THE SCHMUGGLERSCHEUNE

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Mister Berlin loves his home region, but has already traversed many different culinary traditions throughout Germany.

He comes to us at present from Krone­ Lamm restaurant in Zavelstein. Berlin‘s resumé shows apprenticeships at some of the finest star restaurants. His initial training came in the neighboring town of Bad Teinach. In 2002 he headed to the far south of Baden, joining the team at the renowned Restaurant Adler in Häusern, where he gathered his initial experience under Winfried Zumkeller. Jörg Müller, the restaurant legend from Westerland, brought the 21-year-old chef on board as his Chef de Partie in far-away Sylt, and then three years later Franz Berlin became sous-chef under Jörg Sackmann in Baiersbronn. In 2009, Berlin returned to his parents‘ business, gaining his first opportunity there at KroneLamm to work as an independent chef de cuisine and implement his own concept of modern regional cooking. He was soon rewarded with a Michelin star.

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7-course menu with accompanying wines Altes Zollhaus Carl-Herz-Ufer 30 | 10961 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

149,-

One place Berlin has not yet cooked: Berlin. The inspiration for this eat! berlin event, although we‘re bringing the award-winning 34-year-old chef here for more than just his terrific name.

Franz Berlin was happy to oblige: “The festival is a tremendous platform for presenting myself and my cooking in the capital city.” The Schmugglerscheune, a rustic yet elegant space at Herbert Beltle‘s Alten Zollhaus, will host Berlin and his team as they serve a broadly conceived menu of Baden specialties, of the kind that Gault&Millau gushingly called “beautiful meadows for the eyes and aromas.” Berlin is planning seven lavish and fascinating courses for Berlin, from the flying “Presa from Iberico” plates and “Ox cheek salad” to the intermediary course of “Black Forest Cherry Pie” (with paté mousse, chocolate brioche and Brillat Savarin) and on to the “Breton Turbot with Field Mustard Puree and Yozu Gel.” The “Toffee” for dessert will also be unlike anything you‘d ever expect.

The wine pairings for this menu will be handled by Rainer Schnaitmann, the young VDP vintner from Fellbach who applies organic principles in cultivating his Sauvignon Blancs, Spätburgunder and Lemberger and has risen to the Swabian winemaking elite.

Franz Berlin

They say people from that part of Germany can do anything, just with a bit of a funny accent. For food and drink like this, we‘re happy to oblige.

Foto F. Berlin: © Florian Hammerich

E

ver notice that the name Berlin often comes in a two-pack? “Berlin, Berlin” was the name of a German TV drama broadcast in the early evening. There‘s a hotel named “Berlin, Berlin”, and the Gropiuslerchen, a music group featuring kids, had a 1987 hit in “Berlin, Berlin – dein Herz kennt keine Mauern.” Berlin appears to be the Twix (or for those with long memories: the Raider) of capital cities. So it seems only fitting that Franz Berlin , a top chef from Baden, will be joining us for eat! berlin.

ラフ A THREESOME WITH TIM, PART 1: TIM RAUE, DANIEL MARG AND YOSHIZUMI NAGAYA AT SRA BUA

S Fotos: oben links: Nioloxs – stock.adobe.com, T. Raue: © Kai-Uwe Heinrichs/Tagesspiegel, D. Marg: © Adlon Kempinski

eptember 2017 saw Daniel Marg take the reins in the kitchen of Sra Bua by Tim Raue. While a surprise for many observers of the gastro scene, for his boss Tim Raue it was the next logical step in a close working relationship that first started in 2014. Marg had previously served as sous-chef at Restaurant Tim Raue in Kreuzberg‘s Rudi-Dutschke-Straße.

For eat! berlin, the young executive chef is now inviting his two most important mentors to join him in the kitchen at Sra Bua, a locale known for its unparalleled Asian flair, cosmopolitan chill and fine European dining: the dynamic Raue, whose deep well of creativity inspires Marg, and his one-time employer Yoshizumi Nagaya , considered Germany‘s finest Japanese chef. During 2013 and 2014, Marg served as Chef de Partie in Nagaya‘s Düsseldorf star restaurant Nagaya, experiencing first-hand a master‘s personal interpretation of modern Japanese cuisine. Nagaya‘s enduring influence on the 28-year-old chef was in full evidence during the early weeks of the new regime at Sra Bua. One of the new head chef‘s first acts was to add several sashimi and sushi dishes to the menu.

We‘re eager to see what this fascinating trio, comprised of an aspiring newcomer and two decorated masters, can conjure up for this evening.

The plan calls for a six-course Japanese menu unlike any

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6-course menu with alcoholic accompaniment from Japan Sra Bua by Tim Raue Behrenstraße 72 | 10117 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

Yoshizumi Nagaya

189,-

Daniel Marg

Tim Raue

before and probably any after: original, clever and reliably surprising. The individual courses will be accompanied by various fine sakes, quality beer from Nippon and Japanese-inspired cocktails with names like “Aregato, mon ami,“ “Little Ninja” and “Satsuki.” The pairings will be handled by Shahab Jalali, the new sommelier & restaurant manager at Sra Bua by Tim Raue.

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THE GIFT OF GOOD FOOD.

Unendliche Leidenschaft für Genuss und ihren Beruf – das ist die Philosophie der Jeunes Restaurateurs.

Sie kochen nachhaltig und regional, innovativ und traditionell. Sie suchen immer wieder die Inspiration für das Besondere. Und begeistern ihre Gäste für die aufregende Welt kulinarischer Genüsse.

Alle 70 JRE-Mitglieder in Deutschland stellen sich auf der Website www.jre.de und im dort bestellbaren Guide vor. Und mit der JRE-App finden Sie schnell und einfach das JRE-Restaurant in Ihrer Nähe.

JRE.DE

Franz Meilinger

Sebastian Frank

A TIGHT PAIR SEBASTIAN FRANK AND FRANZ MEILINGER

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wo Austrian chefs, two personal histories – and one friend­ ship. Sebastian Frank

and Franz Meilinger became acquainted over a decade ago. They were both working at Steirereck, a famous 2-star Viennese restaurant ranked number 10 on the list of the “World‘s 50 Best Restaurants.” Sebastian Frank was Chef de Partie, responsible for the cold dishes.

Franz manned the fish station. The friendship quickly blossomed. “The harder you work together, the closer the bonds that are forged,” says Sebastian Frank.

Foto S. Frank: © White Kitchen

eat! berlin thinks these two best friends belong together behind the stove. And so: Sebastian and Franz will be preparing a 7-course menu for us at Restaurant Horváth. Naturally traditional Austrian dishes play the main role: “The products from the region around the High Tauern, where Franz came from, will be a primary focus for us,” Sebastian Frank reveals.

Horváth sommelier Jakob Petritsch will be serving up beverages to accompany the meals – unsurprisingly, with a focus on wines from Austria. It should be a fascinating list, with well-known estates joined by a variety of young talents Petritsch has been scouting.

Frank and Meilinger never lost sight of each other, even as their paths diverged

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7-course menu with wine accompa­niment, aperitif, water and coffee Restaurant Horváth Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a | 10999 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

169,after their stints at Steirereck. Sebastian Frank headed off to the wilds of Berlin in 2010, for love but also more. He scored his first job there as head chef at the well-known Restaurant Horváth. His unusual interpretation of traditional Austrian fare earned Frank a wave of critical praise, and the first Michelin star followed a year later. Together with his life partner Jeaninne Kessler, he bought the wellknown restaurant on Kreuzberg‘s Landwehrkanal in 2014. A second Michelin star came in 2015, followed by the declaration in 2017 as “Berliner Meisterkoch.”

After stops in Bavaria and Singapore, friend and colleague Franz Meilinger eventually returned to his parent‘s guest house in the Salzburgerland. He and his family have just finished a complete

renovation of the 900-year-old building, which had also housed a youth hostel. In mid-2017 the Weyerhof reopened with a spiffy new shine that turned the simple lodgings into a handsome country hotel with extraordinary rooms. Given Franz‘s presumptive status as the finest chef in the region, it‘s no surprise that the Weyerhof grew into a culinary hot spot known far and wide. In its cozy restaurant, Meilinger prepares modern, authentic tavern fare -intentionally regional, sustainable and of the finest quality, with many herbs from the restaurant‘s own garden, honey from their hives and homemade bread.

“We talk on the phone two or three times a month,” says Sebastian Frank. “Sometimes Franz asks me about a recipe, or where you can get a good bite to eat in Barcelona.” Once a year when the restaurants take their respective holiday breaks the Berlin chef visits his friends in the Salzburgerland and brings the kids skiing. And at some point Franz Meilinger and Sebastian Frank end up behind the stove together. The preparations for their joint menu will be forged in early February there at the Weyerhof. The celebrated Berlin chef smiles at the thought of it: “We‘re debating right now whether we ought to cook for the local press at the same time, a bit of marketing for the grand reopening.” Between best friends, things like that are no big deal.

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“GLANZ UND GLORIA” AT SPIEGELPALAST T 24

he Palazzo has long been a colorful addition to the Berlin cultural scene, with its unique mix of gourmet delights and stage entertainment.

The show only reopened in Berlin in early November 2017. It had taken a break while organizers Hans-Peter Wodarz and Kolja Kleeberg searched for a new site for the lovely mirrored palace. Their choice: the booming City West, right next to Bahnhof Zoo. “Glanz und Gloria” is the title of the new program, and Hans-Peter Wodarz promises: “The new show will be whimsical, weird and wild, just like Berlin.” Chef de Cuisine Kolja Kleeberg has opted to go all new for his menu as well. The familiar leg of duck main course will be replaced with veal and, as you‘d expect from a world-class talent like Kleeberg, a suitable vegetarian alternative: a mush­room strudel with wild broccoli.

More than a half-dozen high-carat chefs will gather for the benefit event by Palazzo and eat! berlin on behalf of the Stiftung KinderHerz. Their playground: the 80-square meter kitchen at the Palazzo, where they‘ll conjure up fine, unexpected hors d‘woeuvres to com-

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5-course charity dinner, Palazzo show and auction, excl. beverages Palazzo Spiegelpalast Hertzallee/Bahnhof Zoo | 10787 Berlin Admission: 6:00 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

160,pliment Kleeberg‘s menu. This starts with Dieter Müller , Germany‘s most successful three-star chef, doyen and instructor to many of today‘s executive chefs; he‘ll be joined behind the stove by rising talent Tristan Brandt‚ from Mannheim‘s Opus V, Guido Fritz from Chefheads (the association of executive chefs), brothers Christopher and Alejandro Wilbrand from the star restaurant Zur Post in Odenthal, Christian Sturm-Willms of Yunico in Bonn and Würzburgbased star chef Benedikt Faust from Kuno 1408.

Guests to this benefit event can naturally also look forward to a spectacular varieté program. At center stage, as always, is Miss Frisky: singer, entertainer, a conferencier of impressive vocal power, on hand to introduce the artists, illusionists and acrobats from around the world.

One other top-notch but frequently overlooked element of the Palazzo experience: the breath-taking efforts of the kitchen and service crew, where a plate leaves the kitchen area every 1.7 seconds on average, headed out to delight one of the venue‘s 370 guests.

Proceeds from the charitable gala will go to the Stiftung KinderHerz, which promotes and supports heart clinics throughout Germany. Its Berlin site is the German Heart Center, which performs almost 500 operations each year for patients with congenital heart problems – almost 50 percent of them newborns and infants. Our moderator for the evening will be Nadine Heidenreich, excepting the charity auction, which will be handled by gifted cabaretist and TV satirist Oliver Kalkofe.

Fotos: D. Müller © Vollmond Konzertfotografie, C. & A. Wilbrand: © Klaus Lawrenz, B. Faust: © Vollmond Konzerrtfotografie

BENEFIT EVENT FOR STIFTUNG KINDERHERZ AT THE PALAZZO

Host: Hans-Peter Wodarz & Kolja Kleeberg

Dieter Müller

Tristan Brandt

Guido Fritz

Christopher & Alejandro Wilbrand

Charity dinner to benefit the Stiftung KinderHerz Exquisite food can make many a heart beat faster. At this event, the famous world class chefs will be wielding their wooden spoons to help children‘s hearts. The charity dinner to benefit the Stiftung KinderHerz will help drive life-saving medical research. Leading the cooking brigade will be 3-star chef Dieter Müller, an ambassador for Stiftung KinderHerz.

Benedikt Faust

He joins other supporters from a broad swath of fields, including sports, entertainment and politics. The unifying goal behind their various events like the Palazzo benefit: helping children born with heart problems, the most common congenital deformity.

There are roughly 7,000 such cases each year in Germany, and many of the children must undergo emergency surgery almost immediately after birth. Despite these difficult beginnings, most of the “heart” children are filled with life, as the doctors, nurses and care staff at the Kinderherz centers can attest.

Stiftung KinderHerz does everything in its power to provide these little patients with a happier life, including innovative and sustainable research projects at the Kinderherz centers throughout Germany. www.stiftung-kinderherz.de

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Michael Kempf

“DINNER AND A FLICK” AT THE ASTOR FILMLOUNGE 5 FILMS, 5 COURSES, AND 2 STARS

55,Bookable under: www.berlin.astorfilmlounge.de

Michael Kempf & Joachim Gerner

The Astor Filmlounge, one of the loveliest cinemas in all of Germany, will provide the big screen for this grandiose evening.

With its generous leather chairs and massive leg room, the historical movie palace offers the optimal environment for a delicious, captivating evening – the kind that oughta be in pictures.

Wines for the evening are provided by WinS O M O N TANO ery Vinas del Vero.

Logotipo

5 films, 5 courses with 2 wines Astor Filmlounge Kurfürstendamm 225 | 10719 Berlin Admission: 7:45 pm | Start: 8:00 pm

Viñas del Vero + D.O.

Cooking and cinema – they actually have a tremendous amount in common. Emotion and passion, sensibility and culture. This is all part of why we‘ve turned our “Dinner and a Flick” into a series of events, to be reinvented each year around the core pillar of outstanding food. Michael Kempf, this year‘s host chef, is not the type to let the bright lights go to his head. His creative cuisine and outstanding craftsmanship

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© Xavier Bas Disseny

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have delivered the script for an impressive culinary career. The cornerstone for his success was clearly laid during his time in the three-star restaurant Dieter Müller. In 2003 Kempf rose to the role of chef de cuisine at the Berlin restaurant Facil, and immediately during that first year earned a Michelin star at just 26 years of age. Gault&Millau proclaimed him “Rising Talent of the Year” in 2008, and in 2010 Kempf was declared a “Berliner Meisterkoch.” His second Michelin star came in 2013, and Der Feinschmecker magazine named him “Chef of the Year” for 2014. In 2015 Michael Kempf was promoted to Executive Chef at Facil, with Joachim Gerner assuming his role as chef de cuisine.

Popular Radio eins host Stefan Rupp will yet again guide you through the evening.

Viñas del Vero

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re you somebody who eats at home when you‘re watching a film? I‘m not talking about popcorn and chips, I mean a proper meal. If yes, then you‘re already ready for this blockbuster; if not, then we think you‘ll still end up giving two thumbs up. Because our “Dinner and a Flick” will feature an Oscar-worthy performance. What do Tim Raue, Hendrik Otto, Sebastian Frank and Michael Kempf have in common? You guessed it: all have two stars in the Guide Michelin and all four have or will cook for the “Dinner and a Flick.” And because life is generally too short for long films, we‘ll be enjoying five courses from world-class chef Michael Kempf to accompany five topical short films that will prepare our sensory organs for the tastes to follow.

D E N O M I N AC I Ó N D E O R I G E N

POOL POSITION GREAT CHEFS CAN MAKE MAGIC WITH JUST WATER

Fotos: Stadtbad: © Nicolas Kunz/Hotel Oderberger, M. Müller: Ricarda Spiegel, A. Dressel: © Bayrisches Haus, N. Henkel : © Florian Hammerich

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tadtbad Oberberger is an inspiring spot. Erected in 1898 based on plans by architect Ludwig Hoffmann, it opened in 1902 as a public swimming establishment. It was tasked above all else with promoting physical fitness. The pool escaped World War II largely unscathed and continued operation until 1986. By that point, cracks had appeared in its basin. In 2011, the GLS-Sprachenschule purchased the pool, renovated it and in 2016 opened the Hotel Oderberger, with 70 rooms, 2 suites and 10 seminar rooms. Looking at it today, the first thing that stands out is the tremendous attention to detail lavished on this architectural gem by its restorers, Barbara Jaeschke and her daughter Verena. The spirit of the past is visible on every square meter. The pool, which for years had been closed to residents of Prenzlauer Berg, reopened its doors and now even features public swimming hours.

Part of what makes the architecture so unique is that the pool water can be completely drained down to a lower level. The floor of the pool can then be elevated into a flat event space. And that‘s where we intend to hold our event.

The topic of water will be the common thread on this evening. Not just the outstanding water from the local utility,

Marco Müller

the Berliner Wasserbetriebe, but also the bottles from VDP winemakers who have a special affinity for H2O. Schloss Proschwitz lies along the Elbe, while Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier looks out upon the Rhine. Both rivers have their own distinct and important influence on the stylistics of the wines, but let‘s give winemakers Carolin Spanier-Gillot and Georg Prinz zur Lippe the chance to explain that themselves.

Marco Müller will contribute one course. Few other chefs have generated such excitement in Berlin in recent years.

With 18 points in Gault&Millau and two stars in the Guide Michelin, he‘s also one of the highest rated. Alexander Dressel boasts two and a Michelin star, and is, as far as we are concerned, far and away the finest chef in Brandenburg. The native Berliner directs the Bayrisches Haus hotel in Potsdam, and through its gourmet restaurant Friedrich Wilhelm waves the flag proudly for high-end gastronomy in that federal state. He‘s also president of the Jeunes Restaurateur (JRE) association, which joined eat! berlin as an official partner this year. The third in this trio is also a member of the JRE, with a name that truly any gourmet will recognize: Nils Henkel and 18 points. At press time it‘s not yet clear just how many stars his Burg Schwarzenstein in the Rheingau will claim for 2018.

But anything under 2 stars would be almost inconceivable, and lead to major protests from industry insiders.

The culinary aspect of our evening will also explore water, and not just how foodstuffs can be prepared in it. There are lots of options: water buffalo, water chestnuts, algae, fish… the chefs‘ fantasy will be given free reign. As well they should, given the star wattage of the names involved: 2-star chef

Can great chefs really cook just with water? Sure!

But they may add in a little seasoning first…

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5-course menu with accompanying wines Stadtbad Oderberger Straße Oderberger Str. 57 | 10435 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

149,-

Alexander Dressel

Nils Henkel

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DIE ASTOR FILM LOUNGE – EIN GENUSS FÜR ALLE SINNE WOHLFÜHLKINO ZUM ENTSPANNEN - MIT GARDEROBE, LEDERSESSELN UND BEDIENUNG AM PLATZ!

Kurfürstendamm 225 10719 Berlin T. 030 883 85 51

info@berlin.astor-filmlounge.de berlin.astor-filmlounge.de /astorfilmloungeberlin

NEW

FILM LOUNGE

Weingenuss neu gedacht!

Die Konzeptserie SIMPLIFY aus der Manufaktur von ZWIESEL 1872 setzt neue Maßstäbe: Jedes Glas ist für Weiß- und Rotwein gleichermaßen geeignet. So lassen sich mit nur fünf Grundformen alle Weinstile und Aromen abbilden.

LEICHT & FRISCH, FRUCHTIG & FEIN, SAMTIG & ÜPPIG, KRAFTVOLL & WÜRZIG. shop.zwiesel-kristallglas.com www.zwiesel-kristallglas.com

ZWIESEL 1872 | GOURMET COLLECTION. FÜR DIE SEELE DES WEINES.

Micha Schäfer

Michael Wickert

Andreas Rieger

RADICALLY REGIONAL A BOOK, A MOVEMENT, AN EVENING

Fotos: M. Schäfer: © Sara Reuter, A. Rieger: © René Riis, M. Wickert: © Sasha Radke – eventpress

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ocally local,“ “radically regional”… the trend toward seasonal and regional products has seen explosive growth in recent days. The reasons for this vary greatly. For one, chefs are bringing new expectations to the table: getting to know the producers of the foodstuffs they want suits their temperament better than ordering products from anonymous middlemen. The direct content also helps initiate new trends in food production. Farmers, fishers and breeders have a better idea of the quality and quantity levels expected from them through their face-to-face time with the high-end chefs. With all that said, the expectations of diners have changed as well. The rise of animal welfare as a social issue and scandals in food production have led to strong mistrust of “Big Food.” Health and ethics are now playing a much larger role in the habits and decisions by many consumers than they ever did 20 years ago. After all, you are what you eat.

“Radically regional” was the title of a book on this subject jointly published by zibb, a news magazine from RBB broadcasting, and the be.bra Verlag. Its authors, TV journalists Birgit Wolske and Antje Pfeiffer, both work for the broadcaster and spent a year meeting with farmers, breeders, food producers, and of course chefs from the metropolitan capital area. They ended up with a thick compendium of outstanding regional recipes, stories about special foods and portraits of unusual people. And eat! berlin is the perfect opportunity to discuss this smart book and meet some of these fascinating regional producers.

The talk will be moderated by Patricia Pantel, who regularly introduces chefs and producers from Berlin and Brandenburg in her TV reports.

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6-course menu with accompanying wines einfallsreich Berlin Leibnizstraße 38 | 10625 Berlin Admission: 5:30 pm | Start: 6:00 pm

119,-

At the same time, listening to people talk about food can build up an appetite, so the audience will get the chance to experience for themselves just how fine radically regional food tastes – through a five-course menu. What better choice for such an endeavor than Micha Schäfer from Nobelhart & Schmutzig and Andreas Rieger from einsunternull.

Each has long championed the principle of regionality in their own kitchens, to impressive results. In the “vocally lo-

cal” Kreuzberg restaurant that Schäfer runs with Billy Wagner, the names of the producers and suppliers are printed on the menu right next to each dish. At his restaurant in Mitte, Rieger and his partner Ivo Ebert are also focused on the regional. To avoid seasonal shortages in ingredients, they have perfected the art of fermentation: any extra supplies are preserved for later use, just like Grandma used to do.

The third player in this trio of regional chefs is Michael Wickert from Glut & Späne. He originally studied to be a fishery scientist, but ended up instead revitalizing the art of smoked fish there on his farm in the Uckermark. His low temperature oven sees almost exclusively fish from the nearby lakes and rivers.

The focus is always on sustainable fishing, however. His smoked fish are sold straight from the farm, with a dedicated food stand and rooms to let. Wickert doesn‘t just produce outstanding fish, he knows how to cook them masterfully as well. As he‘ll be proving through his contribution to this evening.

Regional wines will come courtesy of Klostergut Töplitz, near Werder, which is part of the most northern winegrowing region in Europe. Officially speaking, Lara and Klaus Wolenski are producing there as part of the Saale-Unstrut region, although they call their product Brandenburger Landwein, to be sold from their seasonal wine tavern that looks out over the Havel.

Please note: Zibb will be reporting live from this event, so please only plan on attending if you‘re ok with having your picture on TV.

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SOUTHWEST GERMANY, LAND OF DELIGHTS HAUTE CUISINE FROM THE HOMELAND AT THE BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG REPRESENTATION

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The Swabians and the Alemanni actually get along fine. If you don’t believe us, watch them when they get together in Berlin. And there is indeed a large contingent from southwest Germany living in the capital. Removed from their fami­ liar settings, their commonalities emerge – such as a fondness for the epicurean delights. And the rest of Berlin benefits from it. There’s now a good Swabian restaurant in almost every district, with fine Baden wine to wash it down.

For eat! berlin, it seemed obvious that a marvelous evening of Baden-Württemberg specialties was ripe for the picking.

The venue of choice was obvious. The Baden-Württemberg Representation to the Federal Government is located right next to Tiergarten. The building itself is an interesting piece of architecture, not least because it seems tailor-made for

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Multi-course menu with accompanying wines Landesvertretung Baden-Württemberg Tiergartenstraße 15 | 10785 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

149,hosting events featuring food and drink.

Our evening is built around a multicourse menu with both typical and unusual products from the region, prepared by one of its very finest chefs.

We sadly can’t reveal any more about this just yet. We can, however, discuss which of the state’s winemakers will be on hand. Hans Hengerer from Weingut Kistenmacher-Hengerer is a founding member of the “Junges Schwaben” association. At his estate near Heilbronn he produces impressively expressive Rieslings and aromatic Pinot Noirs, as well as a fantastic red “Lemberger III” and the “Eselsberg Spätburgunder,” a barrel-aged Pinot Noir that won the hearts and minds of the strict Gault&Millau testers. He’ll be joined by Fritz Keller from Weingut Franz Keller Schwarzer Adler (VDP), one of Baden’s most renowned producers. His signature terroir-driven Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir are perpetually coveted by connoisseurs. And if the food and drink aren’t enough to convince you that Baden and Württemberg fit together wonderfully, we’ll let a different type of talent have the final word on the matter.

RadioEins announcer Christoph Azone is a native son of Baden and will moderate the evening – perhaps even in High German.

Hans Hengerer

Familie Keller

Christoph Azone

Foto oben: © Landesvertretung Baden-Württemberg

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t’s a bit like the German version of “I heart New York.” The decades-old Baden-Württemberg slogan “Wir können alles. Außer Hochdeutsch” (We can do anything. Except speak High German) was recently found to have 70 percent recognition among all Ger­ mans. We’ll take their word about the High German part, but we can attest to having first-hand knowledge of Baden-Württemberg’s fantastic gourmet culture. Some people seem to think that people from Baden and people from Württemberg don’t like each other. Don’t believe it. The friction between the two former kingdoms is better understood as a healthy sense of fraternal competition, albeit one that dates back hundreds of years. It may even be part of the reason for their economic success. But really, this “rivalry” is about the things that really matter in life: who cooks a better plate of Spätzle, who makes a better glass of wine, and, of course, who’s got the prettier girls.

Tristan Otto & Tristan Brandt

TRISTAN & TRISTAN TWO MICHELIN STARS, AND FIVE COURSES AT THE MUSEUM OF NATURAL SCIENCE

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hey‘re both called Tristan, and are also both stars in their field: The first bears the surname Otto and is damned old – almost 66 million years, if archaeological studies of the skeleton found in Montana in 2012 are to be believed. The second Tristan goes by the family name of Brandt and is, at just 33, damned young, at least by comparison. Especially since his Mannheim restaurant Opus V has already cooked its way to 18 points in Gault&Millau and a second Michelin star.

For this year’s eat! berlin festival we’ve arranged for a meeting between these two vastly different attention-getters.

Our rendezvous will by necessity take place in Berlin, as the older Tristan weighs seven tons and is somewhat less mobile. The younger Tristan is enormously flexible, traveling up from Mannheim with his restaurant team with plans for five well-appointed tables and five fantastic courses to cover them, all in front of his friend with the same name.

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5-course menu with accompanying wines Natural History Museum Invalidenstraße 43 | 10115 Berlin Admission: 8:00 pm | Start: 8:30 pm

179,The dinosaur room is an unusual location, even for this unusual young chef. Tristan Brandt learned at the hand of Manfred Schwarz in Heidelberg, worked under Harald Wohlfahrt in the Schwarzwaldstube and had stays ab­ road at Jean-Georges Klein in Alsace and Shanghai, where he drew new inspiration for German star cooking.

He assumed the role of head chef at Opus V in 2012, one of four fine restaurants in the elegant Kaufhaus

Engelhorn in Mannheim. Brandt has since risen to managing director as well. His modern cuisine draws heavily from the French school, yet with creative enhancements through local and Asian ingredients that combine seemingly antithetical aromas into harmonious tastes. His appetizers on this evening will for example include an ingenious combination of pate, smoked eel and yuzu; the main course will feature turbot served with members of the onion family and blood sausage.

The wine will come from the hand of Carolin Spanier-Gillot of the Rheinhessen estate Weingut Kühling-Gillot (VDP) and Gunter Keßler from Weingut Münzberg (VDP) of the Pfalz, both stars in their field as well. Expect nothing less than a radiant evening.

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NUR FÜR ERWACHSENE

radioeins.de

Tim Raue

MONSIEUR RUGUEUX A THREESOME WITH TIM, PART 2: TIM RAUE’S HAUTE CUISINE AT COLETTE

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Fotos: © Nils Hasenau

rench haute cuisine in an unpretentious brasserie? More plausible than you‘d think, as for one special evening Tim Raue and his head chef Dominik Obermeier will be presenting a multi-course dinner at Brasserie Colette Tim Raue. The con­ trasts and seeming contradictions are an inherent part of the concept for the twostar Berlin chef, who grew up in a Berlin where people like to say: “If I haven‘t heard of it, it doesn’t exist.” For Germany’s most famous chef on the international stage, the evening offers the perfect opportunity to celebrate his interpretation of French haute cuisine. “At the start of my career I visited countless outstanding star restaurants in France. It was a highly formative time for me, and they made a lasting impact on my own work,” Raue explains.

The individual courses will be accompanied by the finest of all sparkling wines: select grower Champagnes from choice maisons such as Jacquesson, Vouette & Sorbée, Laherte Frères and Egly-Ouriet.

The Champagnes will be presented by Sebastien Visentin and his team from

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French menu with Champagne pairings Brasserie Colette Tim Raue Passauer Straße 5–7 | 10789 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

185,Vin sur Vin, the Berlin specialists for French wine.

Haute cuisine was not the only element of French culinary practice that impressed Tim Raue. Everyday French cooking as found in the Brasserie Colette drew his attention as well. The brasserie is a hybrid French establishment, and a culinary locale for all occasions. The range of dishes are typically more extensive than at a bistro, but less exclusive than at a restaurant. The cuisine at a French brasserie is thus quintessentially

middle class, yet executed at a high level.

One can expect a menu filled with items like onion soup and fried steak – the classics of French cooking – always accompanied by a plat du jour, a fresh daily specialty from the season or region. The service is attentive but less formal than in a restaurant. A brasserie is ideal for a lunch with business partners, for a beer and appetizers with friends after work, or for souper after the theater.

The idea of fine cuisine in a casual setting was at the forefront of Raue’s mind when he opened Brasserie Colette Tim Raue in 2016 on the premises of the Tertianum senior’s residence, right around the corner from the KaDeWe. He and his head chef Steve Karlsch have also brought Raue’s Brasserie Colette and its concept to the other two Tertianum locations in Munich and Konstanz. In typical Raue fashion, the restaurants share a common thread, but each have their own unique presentation: Elegant and yet comfortable, with a sense of detail, such as the wooden benches from old railroad carriages placed across from a dark bar, sheer marble tables, and simple yet lovely tableware and cutlery.

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Nicholas Hahn

A FEAST FOR THE YEAST DANIEL SCHMIDTHALER COOKS A MENU FOR THE MICROORGANISMS

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e‘re all clear on just how much yeast means to us, right? With­ out yeast there‘d be no bread, no wine, no blue cheeses and no spirits. For millennia, the microorganisms have helped us humans eat more efficiently. Yeast can ferment starches and sugars, and during cooking and baking it produces carbon dioxide that makes wheat products such as bread easier to digest. One side benefit discovered over 5000 years ago: liquid fermentation relies on yeast to produce alcohol.

In short: without these tiny represen­ tatives of the sac fungi family, we gourmets would have much poorer lives.

Good then that nature is clever, or as the great Immanuel Kant put it: “Everything that nature itself arranges is good for some aim.”

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Nature also plays a major role in the cooking of Daniel Schmidthaler .

His restaurant Alte Schule Fürstenhagen in Mecklenberg is far outside the reach of the established premium foodstuffs supply chain, so he instead works with products brought to him by the fishermen, gardeners, hunters and farmers of the surrounding Feldberg lake lands.

Those ingredients are supplemented in his pots and pans with treasures from his own garden and the surrounding forests.

This is as regional as it gets.

For eat! berlin, Daniel Schmidthaler will be working together with Steinplatz

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5-course menu with accompanying beverages Hotel am Steinplatz Steinplatz 4 | 10623 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

99,Chef de Cuisine Nicholas Hahn on a five-course menu that puts the limelight squarely on wild yeast. The young star chef isn‘t revealing his plans just yet, but the focus will be on the sophisticated aromas that yeast produces during processing: “Sourdough will certainly play a role, not just in the bread but also during dessert. We‘ll be preparing flash-braised vegetables and herbs where the roasted powdered yeast provides excellent nuances of umami. If the season permits it, there will also probably be stewed game in a yeast stock, which produces a distinct acidic aroma not unlike Sauerbraten.”

This fascinating and unusual yeast menu will be paired with wines from Schloss Vollrads (VDP), a Rheingau institution fabled for its outstanding Rieslings. There at (reportedly) the world‘s oldest winegrowing estate, the microorganism plays an important role: “We have a selection

of five proprietary yeasts ex­tracted from our vineyards which are ideal for the microclimate in our cellars,” says Christine Müller, deputy director of the estate.

She‘ll be presenting bottles of “Alte Reben” and “VDP.Große Lage” wines that have been resting “on the lees” for extended periods. Sparkling wine will likely also play a role, since the production of that delicacy requires at least two doses of the versatile microorganisms.

And you can expect another yeast-reliant product to find its way into glasses as well: craft beer from the outstanding selection at Bar am Steinplatz, known for its menu of the finest handcrafted beers from around the world. The yeast won‘t be the only ones enjoying a magnificent feast.

Fotos: D. Schmidthaler: © Christian Kielmann, N. Hahn: © Restaurant Steinplatz, Foto unten: © jirkaejc – iStockphoto.com

Daniel Schmidthaler

THE TAGESSPIEGEL GOURMET EVENING A BLIND DATE WITH CHEFS AND VINTNERS

Fotos: K.Röger & B. Matthies: © Ingo Gebhard, Schmelzwerk: © Lutz Papstein

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ernd Matthies and Kai Röger are familiar figures, and not just to readers of the Berlin Tagesspiegel newspaper, where they serve as two of the most influential journalists from the capital city‘s dining scene. Matthies writes highly regarded, at times even feared, restaurant reviews and knows the Berlin restaurant landscape like the back of his hand. Röger is a former editor-in-chief of Berlin-centric “zitty” magazine, director of the grand Tagesspiegel Genuss magazine and covers new restaurants, kitchen talent and national trends for his publication.

In 2016 we launched the “blind date” project with Matthies and Röger, which relies on one single conceit: guests went in blind, with no forewarning about the chefs or winemakers. We were surprised at how quickly the evening sold out, despite the fact that the ticket buyers were blind about what victuals they would be enjoying. We took this as an indication that people are willing to offer a bit of blind trust to Bernd Matthies, Kai Röger, the Tagesspiegel and perhaps even eat! berlin.

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6-course menu with accompanying wines Schmelzwerk in den Sarottihöfen Mehringdamm 55 | 10961 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

129,-

The tremendous interest, and the tremendous fun of the actual event, demanded a repeat engagement. Last year we managed to smuggle star chefs Daniel Schmidthaler from Alte Schule in Fürstenhagen and Matthias Gleiß from Volt into the Schmelz­ werk at the Sarotti Höfe. Thanks to the generous support of host Markus

Kai Röger & Bernd Matthies

Herbicht, they were able to cook a superlative surprise menu matched with wines from Herbert Zillinger (outstanding Veltliner “Radikal”) and Josephin Peränen (Candialle, Tuscany), who had brought her fabulous “Ciclope” along for the evening. The visitors were all in the dark about what lay ahead – but no one was complaining afterward. Quite the contrary. It was a fine gourmet evening for all involved, including the two hosts.

But enough retrospective. How about a few details for this year? Who‘s cooking?

Who will be presenting their wines? We know, of course – but our lips are sealed.

Especially when we‘re around Mssrs.

Matthies and Röger.

This much we can reveal: The evening will once again take place in the Schmelzwerk in den Sarottihöfen.

World-class chef Markus Herbicht will once again be providing an outstanding opener for the meal and playing the perfect host, as he always does. And one last thing: our mystery chef is considered one of the finest at his craft in Austria.

Blind date? Swipe right on this one!

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CRUMBLE IN THE JUNGLE FLORIAN GLAUERT REVIVES THE CULT LOCATION

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he lion might have slept in the mighty jungle, but little else did. At least at Berlin‘s legendary Dschungel nightclub. For eat! berlin, Florian Glauert from DUKE restaurant and the team from the ELLINGTON HOTEL will be re-opening the doors of the storied restaurant on Nürnberger Straße.

Fotos: oben links: © Zamurovic von fotolia.com, Restaurant Dschungel: © privat

Back in the 70s and 80s, the Dschungel nightclub was where the ‚in crowd‘ gathered. It was the place to be, fabled for its freaky and surreal parties, the kind that today‘s young people can only envy and emulate. Where a Chinese restaurant had once stood, a conspicuously motley crowd of transvestites, lesbians and gays and free-spirited heteros mingled night after night. The club itself became the symbol of a certain

Florian Glauert

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cocktail reception, 5-course menu with accompanying wines ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN Nürnberger Str. 50–55 | 10789 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

129,decadent, anti-establishment lifestyle.

There was a clear delineation from the alternative and punk scenes, visually established with neon lights, chrome aplenty and fancy threads. Sparkling wine, not beer, filled the chalices here –

a life of luxury that most of the guests probably couldn‘t afford by the cold light of day. Artists and musicians such as Blixa Bargeld, Nick Cave, Romy Haag, Salome and Martin Kippenberger were frequent guests. West Berlin‘s Dschungel was a magnet for international stars as well: Mick Jagger, David Bowie and Barbra Streisand, among many others, all bided their wiles here at one point or another.

The 90s brought the fall of the Berlin Wall, drawing the attention of the party crowd to the techno clubs of the newly discovered East. The Dschungel tried to adapt. Its owners dreamed up the idea of converting it into a bright, harmoniously styled temple of food with “California Cuisine.” The result was an early attempt at ‚fine dining‘ sans the white-glove rituals, with surprising creations from fresh products and international specialties with a generous dash of Asian flair.

The team at the ELLINGTON HOTEL, which currently owns the premises, will be bringing the cult restaurant back to life for eat! berlin. The historical building and its surviving decor will be decked out one last time in their full 90s flair, including music from that period. Florian Glauert, Head Chef at the hotel‘s restaurant DUKE, has dug up the menu from that period and put together a fasci­ nating California-Asian fusion program he‘s calling “Crumble in the Jungle.”

The Nineties will rise again, in style, tone and taste.

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ON THE ROAD AGAIN FELICITAS THEN KEEPS ON (FOOD) TRUCKIN‘

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elicitas Then originally studied to be a journalist, including an intern­ ship and the full works. But then she fell in the thrall of her other grand passion: cooking. She won the first season of the TV game show The Taste, impressing the judges with her creative ideas and strong nerves behind the stove. Even under pressure she was able to whip together fine creations, one of the factors that wowed pro chefs like Tim Mälzer, Lea Linster and Alexander Hermann. Her food blog and YouTube channel (Pimp your Food) built Felicitas Then´s brand among a growing fan community. Her cookbook and TV and radio cooking shows then brought her breakthrough to a mass audience.

Another side passion for the prolific chef and author: a love for discovering unusual aromas and products. Whether traveling near or far, she’s always on the hunt for inspiration. Her cooking is built on a winning mix of down-to-earth reci­ pes and innovative ideas, always with the camera running. In 2016, Felicitas Then headed out on the road for the first time for her TV show on N24 – in a mint-green food truck. She called the episode On the Road and visited fascinating chefs and raw ingredient producers throughout Germany. Working from the food truck‘s kitchen, she turned those freshly discovered products into attractive menus.

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5-course menu with accompanying beverages Altes Pumpwerk Rudolfstr. 15 | 10245 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

129,liner Wasserbetriebe, will be providing not just high-quality drinking water for the evening but also the venue: its Altes Pumpwerk. The food truck will be able to drive right into the sheltering halls of the historic workshop in Friedrichshain,

For eat! berlin, Felicitas Then plans on tackling another big challenge. The young chef will be preparing a 5-course gourmet menu for 30 persons, all from the truck‘s tiny kitchen. Drawing on inspirations from her most recent trips to Mexico, Israel and Hong Kong, she‘ll be cooking globally inspired dishes crafted primarily from regional products. A suitable beverage will accompany each course, including wine, of course, but also a cocktail and even a freshly prepared non-alcoholic drink.

Wind and weather shouldn‘t be an issue for the food truck‘s guests on this evening. Berlin‘s water utility, the Ber-

Felicitas Then

where guests will dine at well-appointed tables. In the past few years the company extensively restored and rehabilitated the facility, which dates back to 1893.

Its industrial halls still contain parts of what was once cutting-edge technology, including the twin piston pumps from Borsig, built in 1933. Because the temperature in this kind of hall is difficult to control, we recommend that guests bring along a jacket just in case.

Harald Rüssel

WILD GAME, WILD WOODS AND WILD WEIS WINES POTSDAM SPECIAL – HARALD RÜSSEL AND NIK WEIS VISIT BAYRISCHES HAUS

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he lovely part of an excursion out to Bayrische Haus, beyond the magnificent views of historic parks and castles on the drive out, is the feeling that you‘ve quickly put the big city behind you. By the time you reach the game preserve, you feel like you‘re in the middle of the deep, dark woods.

The forest, that most primal locus of German longing, fits in wonderfully with the ambiance of this rustic looking but highly refined country hotel. Head chef Alexander Dressel

at Friedrich Wilhelm focuses on products from the surrounding forests and lakes from a culinary standpoint as well.

Dressel has invited an equally distinguished colleague also familiar with the forest and its game, to cook with him for eat! berlin: star chef Harald Rüssel of Landhaus St. Urban in Naurath.

He lives in the heart of Germany‘s Eifel region, and shares the spoils of his own hunting with friends. His gourmet restaurant is focused on New German cuisine, with almost 90 percent of the ingredients inside coming from the Hunsrück-Moselland-Eifel region. He also distills his own gin: “Harry’s Waldgin” contains juniper, of course, but also many herbs and essences from indigenous flora. “I appreciate the authenticity and unmistakable nature that this local perfection makes possible,” says the chef. The local principle naturally also applies for the second restaurant right nearby, Hasenpfeffer, where Rüssel and his team prepare classic country es-

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Multi-course menu with accompanying wines Bayrisches Haus Elisenweg 2 | 14471 Potsdam Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

149,tate fare, frequently hunted on their own – from roast venison to venison sausage and, of course, the eponymous Hasenpfeffer. We are so happy to see Harald Rüssel again, who 4 years ago claimed the eat! berlin cookbook prize for “Wild.”

In the intervening years we‘ve wanted to bring Rüssel back to our festival, and he‘s finally accepted.

Let‘s maintain a bit of suspense as to precisely what he‘ll be prepar ing.

You can bet that a multic o u r s e game menu will be front and center.

Desserts are

the responsibility of Patrick von Vacano, who has dedicated himself in recent years to the wonderful world of chocolate. He is one of the founders of Original Beans, a chocolate maker which puts as much weight on sustainability and fair trade considerations as it does on the quality of its pro­ducts (which are, by the way, outstanding). Anticipation is high on just what Patrick von Vacano, one of the finest at his craft, will produce from chocolate.

Star winemaker Nik Weis, himself a wild fellow, from Sankt Urbans-Hof in Leiwen (VDP) will be handling the wine duties.

His fantastic feinherb (off-dry) Rieslings from the Mittelmosel and Saar recently earned a joyous “Monumental!” from one of the Gault&Millau critics. Just one more reason to look forward to wild game, wild woods and wild Weis wines.

39

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Massimo Ferradino & Jörg Behrend

MANIA DI TARTUFO! TRUFFLE FESTIVAL AT LA BANCA WITH HEAD CHEF JÖRG BEHREND AND EXPERT MASSIMO FERRADINO

T

he truffle is, in the most literal sense of the word, a “hidden champion”. Only experienced truffle hunters know where to find il tartufo, la truffe or la trufa in the forests of Italy, France and Spain. Although the popular mind still envisions truffle pigs as doing the dirty work, it is in fact primarily trained truffle dogs in action nowadays, as they can smell the fine bulbs even when stashed beneath stones or poplars.

But with a soil-covered Alba or Périgord truffle sitting there in front of you, you might not immediately divine just how coveted this humble but fragrant sac fungi is. But it‘s true, fans from around the world clamor for this wonderful and luxurious foodstuff.

We at eat! berlin live to serve, so we’ve prepared an entire evening at the Hotel de Rome dedicated to the fabled little lumps. Jörg Behrend

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6-course truffle menu with accompanying wines Restaurant La Banca | Hotel de Rome Behrenstraße 37 | 10117 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

159,has planned a 6-course truffle menu in La Banca restaurant: “The beautiful thing is that you can use truffles to make a familiar classic recipe into a delicacy,” the executive chef gushes. One favorite at La Banca is the “Stramme Max,” a classic German egg-and-ham sandwich – here prepared with the finest Italian culatello ham, homemade bread, organic eggs and white truffles. For his truffle menu, Jörg Behrend is planning raviolis with oxtail and

black truffles and Bresse chicken with lardo, celery root and Franconian Bohemian truffles, among other dishes.

“There will also be a dessert of pralines with truffle,” Behrendt promises.

Massimo Ferradino is Berlin‘s truffle expert, and will be at the chef’s side on this evening. He is tasked with enlightening guests on the various secrets of this noble fungi and reporting on the complicated hunt for truffles, innovations in cultivating truffles and on various truffle types, including their aromatic and intensity profiles. His firm Tartufo del Re has been bringing truffles to Berlin for seven years now, with products from various regions of his Italian home, including Piedmont, Umbria and Emiglia Romana. Many of Berlin‘s finest restaurants rely on his deliveries. Award-winning chefs such as Stephan Hentschel from Cookies Cream and Arne Acker from Pauly Saal are among his regular customers. In October 2017, Ferradino began selling selected truffles two days a week at Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg.

The truffle festival will be accompanied by wines from Piedmont, the home of the famous Alba truffle, the perfect match to the intensive aromas of the dishes.

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Markus Semmler

Sascha Stemberg

GIN-IE IN A BOTTLE S 42

tar chef Markus Semmler

viewed it almost as a point of honor when he was commissioned by the distillers at Klostergutes Wöltingerode to collaborate on a custom gin. Working in close coordination with the spirit makers from the Harz region of Germany, he went on the prowl for the perfect recipe: “Creating a gin in its most original form, that was my guiding light,” Semmler says.

The noble gin bearing the “Mundus 45” label was produced in a limited batch of just 1000 bottles. The ingredients include classic juniper berries, pomace from Kellerei Cleebronn-Gülgingen, a Wurttemberg winery, with a neutral spirit from the Kloster‘s own distillery.

The resulting gin is richly aromatic and has earned praise aplenty from the industry press.

This eat! berlin evening is all about gin.

Semmler has invited world-class chef and major gin fan Sascha Stemberg to travel to Berlin from his Haus Stemberg in Velbert (Rhineland). Stemberg‘s own restaurant, Anno 1864, has also distilled its own gin together with the Heinrich Habbel distillery: “It’s based on juniper with sloe. The gin goes

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6-course gin menu Markus Semmler “Das Restaurant” Sächsische Str. 7 | 10707 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

169,through four distilling runs, making it dry with tremendous fruit, including a bit of lime and a healthy dose of fresh cilantro,” Stemberg gushes.

Two award-winning chefs, two lovely gins: What could possibly make more sense than pitting these two different gin concepts against one other? Things will kick off with two drinks each using their own gins, with the guests voting on a winner. To keep the intoxicating effects of the alcohol in check, an amusegueule will be served: Sascha Stemberg will be passing around “gin-marinated salmon”, while Markus Semmler will

have “oysters flambé with a gin Bloody Mary.” Each chef will then present three courses, served in alternating order and all centered around drawing out the aromas of the gin.

Gin as the focus of haute cuisine? This rehabilitation has been long overdue: The fine distilled product has for years languished in an undeserved gastronomical purgatory. Yet good gins are pretty much ruined by simply pouring tonic atop them. The recent revival of ‘juniper brandy’ by passionate, creative distillers throughout Europe, and their intense promotion by the honorable guild of barkeepers, has helped put gin back “onto the tips of all tongues.” As with whiskey and rum, there are now dozens of fine gins available, covering many different taste profiles and aromas.

The gin menu will give you the chance to discover your own personal favorite.

Fotos: Markus Semmler “Das Restaurant”: © Christian Lietzmann, S. Stemberg: © Marcus Scheuermann – Digital Artist

UNUSUAL AROMAS ABOUND IN GIN MENU FROM STAR CHEFS MARKUS SEMMLER AND SASCHA STEMBERG

劳 A THREESOME WITH TIM, PART 3: CANTONESE AND BORDEAUX AT RESTAURANT TIM RAUE

C

Fotos: T. Raue © Amin Akhtar, Restaurant: © Nils Hasenau

hina meets France and Cantonese cuisine embraces fine Bordeaux: Where else but in the spacious confines of Kreuzberg will you find this kind of encounter between two seemingly incongruous drinking and dining cultures? People from all countries live side by side in this district, mostly peacefully, and definitely with an open mind to the new and unusual.

Two-star chef Tim Raue certainly had something like that in mind back in 2010 when he and Marie-Anne Raue opened Restaurant Tim Raue here in this much maligned district. He was well aware of its goods and bads, having grown up here himself under anything but the most refined of circumstances.

For his part, Tim Raue sees the tolerant mindset found throughout Kreuzberg as the foundation of his success. On his many trips to Asia, he perpetually finds new ingredients and aromas that surprise him and inspire his unusual recipes. The restaurateur has also come to detest the frequently heard theory that Asians are ignorant about good wine.

“Not once during any of my visits have I ever seen the Chinese put cola in their Bordeaux, as I‘d read they like to do.

Quite to the contrary. In the restaurants of Hong Kong, Bordeaux is among the preferred wines of the Chinese.”

Drawing on these insights, Tim Raue has created a thrilling culinary “pingpong”

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8-course menu with accompanying wines Restaurant Tim Raue Rudi-Dutschke-Straße 26 | 10969 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

444,for eat! berlin that encompasses luxury dishes from Cantonese and French haute cuisine, to be served with whites

and reds from Bordelais. An exclusive eight-course menu is planned, together with the finest products from two countries that love to eat. The menu will include fabled dishes such as Fish Maw and Abalone Soup, a scallop conpoy with “20-year-aged mandarin peels” as well as caviar, sole, lobster and étouffée pigeon.

This unusual exchange between China and France will focus on complementary and contrasting aromas, daring textures, harmonic elements and even a bit of tricking the taste buds. You can be sure it will be fantastical and fantastic – as it always is with Tim Raue.

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OUR VINTNERS AND DISTILLERS Prinz von Hessen (VDP)

Dr. Clemens Kiefer

Page 6/7, 60

Weingut Leitz (VDP)

Johannes Leitz

Page 13

Günther Jauch & Dorothea Sihler-Jauch

Staatsweingut Freiburg (VDP)

Bernhard Huber

Page 17, 60 Page 23

Rainer Schnaitmann

Page 29

Hans Oliver Spanier

Page 31

Familie Keller

Nik Weis

Page 39

Carolin Spanier-Gillot

Page 46

Stefan Attman

Page 57

Prinz zur Lippe

Page 30 Page 31 Page 49, 60

Michaela Allram

Page 46 Weingut Weil (VDP)

Wilhelm Weil

Page 60

Page 27 KistenmacherHengerer (VDP)

Hans Hengerer

Page 30 Schloss Vollrads (VDP)

Christine Müller

Page 34 Weingut Stigler (VDP)

Regina & Andreas Stigler

Weingut Allram

Brennerei Farthofer Doris & Josef Farthofer

Page 27

Page 23 Schloss Proschwitz (VDP)

Weingut von Winning (VDP)

Weingut Nittnaus Martin & Hans Nittnaus

Lewis Schmitt

Kühling-Gillot (VDP)

Nik Weis (VDP)

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Page 20

Page 17 Weingut Neus (VDP)

Weingut Keller (VDP)

Weingut Münzberg (VDP)

Gunter Kessler

Viktoria & Felix zu Salm-Salm

BattenfeldSpanier (VDP)

Weingut Töplitz

Klaus Wolenski

Page 14

Page 6, 7 Prinz zu Salm (VDP)

Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann (VDP)

Weingut Wirsching (VDP) Lena, Andrea & Dr Heinrich Wirsching

Katrin Oberländer

Weingut Othegraven (VDP)

Weingut Zimmerling (VDP) Malgorzata Chodakowska & Klaus Zimmerling

Page 6, 7

Fürstlich Cas­ tell'sches Domä­ nenamt (VDP)

Page 49, 60 Weingut Stiegelmar

Jürgen Stiegelmar

Page 57

Fotos: Prinz v. Hessen: © Michael Holz; Leitz: © Joanna Haag, Castellsches Domänenamt: © Rolf Nachbar; Othegraven: © Weingut von Othegraven; Staatsweingut Freiburg: © Wilfried Beege; Weingut Neus: © Alexander Sell; Weingut Wirsching: © Ina Brosch; Battenfeld-Spanier: © Ralf Ziegler; Weingut Münzberg: © Hans-Georg Merkel; Schloss Vollrads: © Hans-Jürgen Heyer; Nik Weis: © St. Urbanshof; Weingut v. Winning: © Markus Bassler; Weingut Stigler: © www.pps-studios.com; Weingut Stiegelmar: © Stiegelmar GmbH; Farthofer: © Manfred Horvath

Horst Sauer

Stefan Lergenmüller

GRAND VINTNERS, GRAND WINES THE AWARD-WINNING GAULT&MILLAU WINE MENU

Fotos: S. Müller: © Andreas Durst, sky tower: © Alexandra Pickowski

A

ll eyes were watching after the big announcement last year that both the Gault&Millau Restaurant and Weinguide would be switching publishers. While Patricia Bröhm was retained as editorin-chief of the restaurant guide, Britta Wiegelmann took the helm for the wine guide. Her first act was to put forth a completely new, tremendously competent tasting team. With such changes afoot, it was no surprise that the new edition of the wine guide gave readers plenty to talk about. It aimed at providing a fundamental orientation of the wine landscape to all its readers, whether ambitious hobby drinkers or experienced aficionados. Sensationally, as it happens, with the first dry German wine in the history of the guide to earn the top possible marks of 100 points. Our congratulations go out again to our friends in Baden, the grandiose Weingut Huber in Malterdingen (VDP).

On this evening we‘re proud to welcome 2018 Winemaker of the Year Horst Sauer from the Franconian town of Eschendorf. His Silvaner wines in particular have drawn massive interest.

But Horst Sauer won‘t be our only guest on this evening. He‘ll also be bringing

Stefan Müller

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6-course menu with moderation and accompanying awarded wines Restaurant sky tower | Select Hotel Berlin Spiegelturm | Freiheit 5 | 13597 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

129,-

along one of his favorite chefs. A twocourse meal tailored to Sauer‘s wines is in store.

The title of Rising Talent of the Year went to Stefan Lergenmüller, who purchased the tradition-rich Weingut Schloss Reinhartshausen in the Rheingau back on March 1, 2013. The rise in quality of the estate‘s wines since that day can only be called meteoric. Stefan Lergenmüller will be joining us on this evening in the Restaurant sky tower, in

the 16th floor of the Select Hotel Berlin Spiegelturm in Spandau. Lergenmüller is a particular fan of Berlin‘s Chinese cuisine and will invite one chef who prepares two courses from the Asian gustatory universe. His aromatic, mostly-but-not-fully dry wines compliment that fare perfectly.

The focus by the new Gault&Millau wine team on subtlety and young talent is particularly on display with the winner of the Discovery of the Year award.

Stefan Müller has previously been an insider‘s tip among wine experts. His name was one that a sommelier might whisper, together with a reverent: “You‘ve gotta try this.” Britta Wiegelmann found the estate – and found the wines to be not just good, but fantastic. The vintner from the Saar will be bringing one of his favorite chefs from Trier along for the ride: Peter Schmalen from Restaurant Schlemmereule will be serving delicacies to Müller‘s wines.

Britta Wiegelmann, the new editor-in-chief of the Gault&Millau wine guide, will be handling the moderation for this event. We look forward to a high-carat evening!

Britta Wiegelmann

45

HOMO AUSTRIACUS OR: AN EPICURE FROM THE HILLS DESCENDS ON BERLIN

46

As the festival director of eat! berlin himself has “Homo Austriacus” anaces-

Kurt Jäger

2.3.

129,-

as is his First Floor; and young winegrower Martin Nittnaus from the Burgenland, whose father, Hans Nitt­ naus, is a big name from the new generation of winemakers and renowned for his high-quality Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt. Another key role in our academic exhibit: the wines of Weingut Allram in the Kamp Valley. Michaela Haas-Allram will be on hand personally to present the minimalist and mineral Veltliner from her family‘s estate.

tors, it seemed high time to observe up close several individuals from the genus.

The scientific plan: have them prepare a five-course menu of the kind they, highly developed epicures that they are, would like to eat. As representative of the Austriacus diaspora, we successfully lured the following born-and-bred specimens for our evening in Volt: Franz Raneburger, former director at the famed Bamberger Reiter and Remise in Glienicke; star chef Kurt Jäger, much missed in Berlin,

The host for this ethnological excursion will be Matthias Gleiß , a native Berliner and member of the “Homo Berlinicus Schnauzicus” genus. He is known as a major proponent of the Austriacus culinary arts; as a leading ethnologist in this field, he is extremely well acquain­ ted with the characteristics of his epicurean colleagues and their recipes.

This instructive evening in his restaurant Volt will bring a bit of that Viennese Schmäh, or charm, to our festival. For science, of course!

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5-course menu with accompanying wines Restaurant Volt Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21 | 10999 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

Matthias Gleiß

Fotos: Volt: © Florian Lein, F. Raneburger: © Charles Yunck

H

e comes from somewhere in the deep valleys between Lake Constance and Lake Neusiedl, from the land between the peak of the Zugspitze and the Watzmann Massif.

There, in the tracts between Germany, Switzerland, Slovenia and the Czech Republic, lives “Homo Austriacus.” Largely unknown to science, without even a Wikipedia entry to call his own, this species is only known to experienced academics in the gourmet sciences, a specialized branch of ethnology. Homo Austriacus is a sub-species of the better-known Homo Europeensis Medialis Delectationis, or the “European Epicure” for short. The Austriacae family is famed, even infamous, for its predilection for flour-based dishes and love of beverages from fermented grapes. In short: the members of this genus love everything that tastes good. No wonder then that its roomy natural habitat, known as “Austria,” looks almost like a perfectly shaped Wiener Schnitzel.

Franz Raneburger

CULINARY GUEST HOST: ISTRIA AN ODE TO THE PENINSULA‘S UNBELIEVABLE DIVERSITY

Fotos: Istrien: © Frank Heuer, Trüffel & G. Clai: © Petr Blaha, T. Fernetech: © Landhotel San Rocco

F

rom a culinary standpoint, Istria is one of the most captivating regions anywhere in Europe. If you‘ve ever eaten a tomato there in August, or enjoyed a sea bass from Lim Bay or “Tartufi di Mare” opened up for you right there at the fishing boat, you‘ll never forget the trip. Istrian olive oils will leave fragrant impressions just as fervently as the fresh truffles from Buzet. The meat of the Boškarin ox, bred in the hilly areas and still used today as beasts of burden, has also earned a fervent following. The traditional influences of the imperial-era Austrian cuisine and the proximity to Italy play a major role in Istria. Many Croats actually have Italian roots. This has given rise to a new generation of young chefs who are rejuvenating their nation‘s traditional dishes with international aromas and innovative recipes. Istria, a peninsula reaching out into the Adriatic, is drawing an increasing number of travelers, not least because this lovely tract of land has developed a sensational range of culinary

Teo Fernetich

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Multi-course menu with accompanying wines Restaurant Rio Grande May-Ayim-Ufer 9 | 10997 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

129,options. There‘s a good reason why the Guide Gault&Millau Austria has its own Istria section, as a majority of the visitors still come from that alpine nation. We at eat! berlin are pleased to take this opportunity to invite some of the most captivating chefs and producers from Istria to the German capital. The small culinary delegation will be led by Teo Fernetich from the Landhotel San Rocco in Brtonigla,

Georgio Clai

who is also the president of the Croatian branch of the Jeunes Restaurateurs.

The menu will be accompanied by excellent wines from the region, still tragically unknown and underrepresented here.

The fertile clay inland soils and the chalky soils closer to the sea shape the flavor of entire varieties such as Malvazija, Terna, Refosco and Muskât. For the first time, Gault&Millau Austria‘s 2018 wine guide included winemakers from Croatia, six of them from Istria. Georgio Clai from Buje, roughly 40 kilometers from the Italian border, was one of them. We were overjoyed when he accepted our invitation to join us in person for eat! berlin.

His unfiltered white wines, created with a philosophy of minimalist intervention, are fermented on the skins and barrel aged. They are unusual, taste fantastic and need fear no comparison with other European competition.

Istria is more than just an insider‘s tip for culinary tourists. It has developed into a virtual epicurean metropolis, and we are very pleased to be bringing this fantastic nation closer to you. This includes a truck sent by the Istrian tourism association, stocked floor to ceiling with the region‘s freshest products for the trip to Berlin on the Spree. Rio Grande restaurant, with its outstanding view out on the water, offers the perfect backdrop for the evening, one where we‘ll all feast and think ahead to the summer.

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Nichts Ăźbertrifft den kĂśstlichen Genuss, das reiche Aroma und die herrlich kĂśrnige Textur von Parmigiano Reggiano, dem echten und einzigen Parmesan.

www.parmigianoreggiano.com facebook.com/parmigianoreggiano

FOR ADULTS ONLY! THE RADIOEINS MENU IN AXICA

H

ave you heard about our Tagesspiegel Gourmet evening? It‘s a blind date for all involved – festival visitors will be buying their tickets without knowing who‘ll be cooking or which two winemakers will be pouring the wine.

Foto J. Baron: © Rene Riis

The radioeins menu is similar, except the identities of the chef and vintner are no secret. The surprise will come in the evening‘s entertainment program. Program Director Robert Skuppin has plenty of good things in store, as befits an event by radioeins, which is known for its good music, outstanding spoken word pieces and general excellence.

On the culinary side, the AXICA-Catering team under head chef André Steuer will also have some surprises in tow. Steuer had already held impressive posts with the finest establishments in Brandenburg before landing at the 2-star “L‘Armen” restaurant from Yvon Morvan in Brittany. He‘ll be working alongside another outstanding guest chef on this evening: James Baron , who hit the Arlberg like a bomb. With 3 toques and 18 points, he‘s hardly an unknown chef. Still in his early 30s, he‘s directed the kitchen at the phenomenal 5-star Hotel Hotel Tannenhof in St. Anton since 2015.

This Englishman appears to have an affinity for the Alps, or at least its specialties – having previously served as souschef to Andreas Caminada (3 Michelin stars, 19 points) at Schloss Schauenstein im Fürstenau, Switzerland. Baron refers to his work as “creative alpine cuisine,” although anyone who‘s had the pleasure

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5-course menu with accompanying wines AXICA Pariser Platz 3 | 10117 Berlin Admission: 6:30 pm | Start: 7:00 pm

139,-

James Baron

of tasting his dishes might well protest that he‘s selling himself far too short. His outstanding efforts in the kitchen helped the Tannenhof earn Gault&Millau‘s distinction as 2018 Hotel of the Year. Hotel Director Axel Bach accepted the award, and is also president of the notable “Kulinarik&Kunst” festival on the Arlberg.

The name on the wine bottles on this evening will set vinophiles‘ hearts aflutter: the wonderful Stephan Attmann from Weingut von Winning (VDP) will be on hand to explain the history of his Rheinpland-Pfalz estate. The wines are produced in a fantastic style and method, and in many cases have been completely reimagined.

Beyond this, we are also expecting Andreas and Regina Stigler, whose

Kaiserstuhl wines are among the finest anywhere in Germany. The fascinating spectrum of grape varieties and the Stigler‘s joy in experimentation are legendary – although one eventually always falls into the gravitational pull of their Pinot-family Großes Gewächs wines, which are perpetually scintillating and top rated. Stigler‘s sparkling wine is also top notch and the envy of many a producer from Champagne.

This kind of diverse and exceptional evening naturally requires an exceptional venue as well. AXICA will be providing not just the catering, but also the truly perfect premises, an architectural masterpiece near the Brandenburg Gate. For years AXICA has been one of our favorite locations, and we‘re very happy to have arranged an event here in 2018 as well.

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Theo, Festivalleiter Bernhard Moser & Moderatorin Tina Knop

COLORFUL AND HEALTHY LEARNING FOR THE FUTURE WITH THEO

T

Fotos: © Hanisch

here‘s something heartwarming about watching the enthusiasm on the faces of second to fourth graders as they surround and hug Theo the Magic Ink Blot. But don‘t let their size fool you: these mini-chefs are all business once they get to work under professional supervision snipping, hacking, grating, stirring and seasoning. The concentration is on full display as soon as there‘s actual learning to be done. This remarkable achievement surely has everything to do with the dedication and hard work of the team that brings Theo to life, especially Sylvia Hahnisch, author, initiator and creative font of the stories and learning content for My.Theo.TV. This will mark the fourth time that Theo the Magic Ink Blot will invite schoolchildren to discover our planet during the eat! berlin gourmet festival. He is the adventurous heart of the “The Earth My Home” educational module, which highlights the challenges of the global and digital revolutions. In a joint internet

sonal products. Which means, of course, the use of ingredients like celery and onions from the immediate vicinity. The shared meal will be finished off with a smoothie made from fruit and vegetables from Brandenburg.

learning session, schoolchildren in classes two to four talk with partner classes from other countries about a variety of topics, including varied and healthy nutritional choices. A cooking studio will be set up for them in the Schönhauser Allee Arcaden shopping mall, to prepare a healthy lunch in between learning modules.

One topic for the cooking course: the right to suitable food. The educational module will help children understand the earth as an equitable home to all people. Even the youngest participants will begin exploring questions of transportation paths, water consumption and waste disposal in agriculture and the food production industries, and will be sensitized to the use of regional, sea-

As part of a vibrant neighborhood community, the Arcaden‘s management sees the value in raising awareness of healthy lifestyles and making an active contribution to key topics such as nutrition and sustainability. “Helping young neighborhood residents develop is an important matter for us,” explains Luisa Lorentz-Leder, the center‘s manager. “That‘s why we‘re thrilled to offer our support for this successful format and to help all the kids who come here enjoy the different stations and experiences.”

Hopefully after all that concentrated work the young boys and girls will have time to see the two ewes being kept at the Arcaden, or try some of the homemade honey – there are four hives producing the sweet stuff up on the roof.

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fĂźr die, die leckere Rezepte kreieren.

LASERLINE druckt geschmackvoll. Bestellen Sie Kundenstopper und präsentieren Sie Ihre Kreationen. www.laser-line.de/gastronomie

CINÉMA CULINAIRE Fotos: City Kino: © AlbertWarth, Film “Die Köchin und der Präsident”: © Alamode Filmverleih

CULT MOVIE AND CULT DISHES FROM ALL REGIONS OF FRANCE

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he feature film “Haute Cuisine” grabs its viewers‘ attention in three ways. First, it tickles the heartstrings with the inspired-by-true-events story of the female private chef to the French president. Second, Catherine Frot gives a tremendous performance as Hortense Laborie, sharing her emotional journey and her rage when the political intrigues of the Élyssée Palace make her life difficult. And finally: we, the audience, work up a mighty appetite as “the finest dishes from all regions of France” are prepared on screen as Madame Hortense cooks for the president. A marvelous looking vol-au-vent, savoy cabbage stuffed with salmon, truffled Bresse chicken – you can almost smell them through the screen.

Which makes it the ideal film to be presented as “Cinéma culinaire” for eat! berlin. And where better than the Centre Français de Berlin: its City Kino Wedding shows the films, then La Gourmanderie right next door serves the fabulous food. Chef

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Reception with champagne, movie screening and 4-course menu with accompanying wines Centre Français de Berlin City Kino Wedding Müllerstr. 74 | 13349 Berlin Admission: 5:00 pm Start: 5:30 pm Movie screening, champagne and menu

119,-

Movie screening, champagne, without menu

25,-

de cuisine and Francophile Claude Trendel and his colleague Jimmy Fourcault tracked down the loveliest recipes from the film. Following the screening, 80 guests will sit down for a 4-course menu with paired wines.

But first back to the film: the modern fairy tale about the rise of a provincial cook to the confidante of one of the most powerful men in the world is based on the diaries of Danièle Delpeuch. Back in the late 1980s, she did in fact cook for then-president of France François Mitterand. The film lives from both its sensuous cooking scenes as well as the outstanding performance by lead actress Catherine Frot, whose self-confident Hortense Laborie must deal with the male chauvinists populating the presidential kitchen. Director Christian Vincent and his team were granted almost unprecedented access to film at the real Élysée Palace. Viewers may well appreciate these unfamiliar glimpses of a spectacular and famous but usually hidden setting.

In case you‘re wondering: Both those staying for the dinner and cineastes interested only in the film will be treated to a small Champagne reception with amuse-bouche at the start of the screening – it wouldn‘t do to have stomachs growling during the performance.

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THE EAT! BERLIN PRIZES

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ach year at its concluding Gala Dinner, the eat! berlin gourmet festival conveys a series of prizes to honor the most important players from the Berlin and German culinary scenes:

Gourmet Culture award was created to honor them. In past years Sonja Moor, Karl Wannemacher, Michael Hoffmann, Guido Wegner and Gesumino Pireddu have all heard their names called.

The Lifetime Achievement Award goes to persons who have had an enduring impact, or have outright changed, Germany‘s fine dining landscape. Eckart Witzigmann was our first honoree in 2011. He was followed by Wolfram Siebeck, Alfred Biolek, Gianni van Daalen and Harald Wohlfahrt. In 2017, it was Wilhelm Weil‘s turn, based on the work of his tradition-rich, globally renowned Weingut Robert Weil. Michael Prinz zu Salm-Salm, the honorary president of the Verband deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP), presented the award. And without further ado, we‘re proud to announce the winner for 2018: Thomas H. Althoff – who will be introduced by one of our former prizewinners, Gianni van Daalen.

The People‘s Choice for Most Popular Event will remain unknown, even to us, right until the Gala Dinner. Each guest at an event will receive a voting slip and can help determine the winner.

Past winners were: Hotel Scandic, Stefan Hartmann, Katja Grünebaum, Cynthia Barcomi and Regina Vogt. In 2017, two women shared the recognition: Sonja Früh­sammer and Felicitas Then. We‘re fascinated to see where the public‘s fancy falls this time round.

Berlin has undergone a set of permanent changes in recent years. Fine dining is growing rapidly, with both Berliners and its visitors appreciating the trend.

Many people are and have been involved with this development. The Promoter of

We‘re now up to the fifth edition of the Siegfried Rockendorf Prize, intended to honor and encourage young rising talent. Siegfried Rockendorf, for whom the prize is named, was one of the most important – and dazzling – chefs in Berlin, and he put a high priority on strong training for talented young chefs. 2014 saw Stefan Heidicke from the Hilton Berlin claim the prize; in 2015 it was Leonard Haase from Berlin Capital Club, Yoshida Takeshi from Fischers Fritz in 2016 and

most recently, in 2017, Frederik Ohlms of Sarah Wiener at Hamburger Bahnhof.

Over the course of recent years we‘ve visited many kitchens large and small. The competition for the 2018 Siegfried Rockendorf Prize will be held in the teaching kitchen at the OSZ Gastgewerbe-Brillat Savarin school. The long-established and highly successful cooperation with Academic Director Niklas Siebecke, who oversees the OSZ Technology department, cleared the path for us to use the professional spaces. Our thanks also go out to School Director Jürgen Dietrich.

Patricia Bröhm, Editor-in-Chief at Gault&Millau, has served as a jury member at this cooking competition for rising talent, and has also served as moderator at the prize ceremony. Once again this year she has arranged for the winner of the cooking competition to earn a practical internship at an outstanding “toque” restaurant.

The 2017 Henry Busch Prize, our competition for young restaurant service staff, was claimed by Julius Wiescher of Restaurant Balthazar 2. He too was given the chance to undertake an internship at the restaurant of his choice from the Gault&Millau guide.

Some of our past award winners

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Lifetime Achievement 2013: Barbara & Wolfram Siebeck

Lifetime Achievement 2017: Wilhelm Weil & Laudator Michael Prinz zu Salm-Salm

Promoter of Gourmet Culture 2017: Gesumino Pireddu & festival director Bernhard Moser

People‘s Choice for Most Popular Event: Sonja Frühsammer (2017), Regina Vogt (2016) & Felicitas Then (2017)

Siegfried Rockendorf Prize 2017: Frederik Ohlms

Henry Busch Prize 2017: Julius Wiescher & Laudator Frank Deutschmann

TOUR DE CUISINE “HIGH ABOVE” WITH BERLIN STAR CHEFS

S

Fotos: A. Koppe: © Georg Roske, B. Swanson & M.Schulz: © Florian Bolk

ome culinary experiences are, in theory anyways, truly priceless.

That refreshing glass of Champagne atop the Eiffel Tower, gaze ranging out over Paris, after bravely tackling its 704 steps. Or that fantastic rustic repast eaten at an Alpine hut, with the Alps stretching out in the distance.

Might it have to do with the panorama view? We think so. eat! berlin‘s exclusive “Tour de Cuisine” will bring eight selected – and by that we mean: fastest to reserve – guests to outstanding restaurants with outstanding views, including four surprise courses and paired wines.

Have no fear: all of the restaurants we‘re visiting have an elevator.

The starting point for our adventure on this Saturday evening is the lobby of the most extravagant hotel in the City West: we‘ll be greeted in the Waldorf Astoria by Hotel Director Gregor Andréewitch and Daniel Behrendt, who since March 2017 has been responsible for the food at the world-class hotel restaurant. We‘ll ascend 15 stories to the Library, where we‘ll be served a lovely glass of wine suitable for the first course of our “Tour de Cuisine.” Enjoy the view out over the Kurfürstendamm, Tauentzienstraße and the Gedächtniskirche and chat with the two bigwigs from this luxury hotel.

Gregor Andréewitch & Daniel Behrendt

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3.3.

Only 8 tickets !

4 courses with accompanying wines in 4 restaurants over the roof tops of Berlin Waldorf Astoria Berlin Hardenbergstraße 28 | 10623 Berlin Start: 3:30 pm

119,Our chauffeur will then bring us to our next station: we‘ll take in our second course of the tour at Hugos, prepared by the hand of Eberhard Lange and served with a fine liquid accompaniment.

Lange has one of the loveliest workplaces anywhere in the city, perched 14 floors above the Tiergarten and looking out over the green as airplanes pursue their line to Tegel.

The third hot spot for our culinary expedition is Golvet on the Landwehrkanal, where host Björn Swanson will await us. Opened in spring 2017, this new restaurant carries out the star chef‘s vision down to the finest details.

To a lovely evening view over the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Platz, guests will

Eberhard Lange

enjoy a third course comprised of fantastic fare that is simultaneously worldly and down-to-earth.

The last leg of our journey will bring us to the eastern part of the city, to the restaurant on Landsberger Allee whose very name reminds us to look upward: there in the Skykitchen we‘ll be met by Berlin‘s youngest star chef, Alexander Koppe , for the final course, a choice glass of wine and an unusual view over East Berlin. If the weather is clear, we‘ll even be able to see the former Postgiroamt in Kreuzberg. And way back there, deep in the west -- isn‘t that the Waldorf Astoria?

Curious? Interested in enjoying earthly delights at heavenly elevations? Then book quick, because there are only eight spots.

Estimated Schedule 3:30 pm Meet in the hotel lobby of the Waldorf Astoria 4:10 pm Continue on to Eberhard Lange at Hugos 5:10 pm Travel to Björn Swanson at Golvet 6:00 pm Continue on to Alexander Koppe in the Skykitchen After-party: relaxed finish in the Skybar – individual ride home

Björn Swanson & Michel Schulz

Alexander Koppe

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Neue SHOW

Berlin

Neues MENÜ

Spiegelpalast Hertzallee / Bahnhof Zoo

09.11.2017 bis 04.03.2018 Info & Tickets:

01806.388 883 * • www.palazzo.org *(0,20 €/Anruf aus dem Festnetz; Mobilfunk max. 0,60 €/Anruf)

HAMBURG

NÜRNBERG

STUTTGART

GRAZ

WIEN

Cornelia Poletto PALAZZO

Alexander Herrmann PALAZZO

Harald Wohlfahrt PALAZZO

Eckart Witzigmann PALAZZO

Toni Mörwald PALAZZO

HAPPY AS PIGS IN CLOVER POTSDAM SPECIAL – SPECKERS LANDHAUS

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ou can‘t deny the regal beauty of Potsdam and its historic buildings. Sadly, the food served therein all too often lacks that same noble flair. The proximity to the fascinating culinary scene in Berlin acts more as a drag than a boost, with many local gourmets quick to head to Potsdam‘s bigger neighbor for their foodie adventures. A resistance movement is afoot, though, with a handful of restaurateurs bucking the trend and cooking at a high level, right here and now.

Speckers Landhaus is located at the very hub of Potsdam‘s historicity. Schloss Sanssouci and the Ruinenberg, the Siedlung Alexandrowka, the New Garden and the Old City are all within walking distance. The well-restored fisherman‘s house was first built in 1645. The inside of the half-timbered structure radiates historical charm, but the kitchen run by Gottfried and Steffen Specker isn‘t afraid to add modern innovations and international aromas to their classic fine dining menus. “While we‘re always looking for regional recipes, it‘s rarely an easy task around here. Berlin and Brandenburg don‘t really have their own classic cooking traditions,” says Gottfried Specker, the father. The focus is primarily on products from Potsdam and its environs, such as Havelland vegetables, fish from the Havel and game from local hunters.

Speckers Landhaus is thus the perfect venue for the third Potsdam evening of the eat! berlin festival, presenting Brandenburg cuisine alongside two regional foodstuffs whose straightforward concept we find commendable. Since 2015, Axel Penndorf and Clemens Stromeyer from Potsdamer Sauenhain have been running a remarkable pig farm in the northern part of the city. The animals are kept in humane conditions in former

Axel Penndorf & Clemens Stromeyer

Sa.

3.3.

4-course menu with accompanying wines Speckers Landhaus Jägerallee 13 | 14469 Potsdam Admission: 6:30 | Start: 7:00 pm

99,-

Steffen Specker

wild fruit orchards, and spend their entire lives outdoors running around on ten hectares of space. The robust crossings between the Bentheim Black Pied and Pietrain breeds are free to eat whatever they can root from the fields, meadows and even neighboring farms. The animals are also slaughtered as stress-free as possible in a nearby butchery. The sustainability benefits consumers as well: the meat from these happy Potsdam pigs is known for its fantastic taste and per-

fect consistency, making it a favorite of star chefs and lay epicureans alike.

“The evening is an outstanding opportunity to show what a good kitchen can make from good products,” says Steffen Specker, who has put together a fivecourse menu with a strong regional concentration: The amuse-geule will be followed by a “Composition from the Pots­damer Sauenhain” menu, comprised of dishes such as “wild smoked salmon on potato sabayon,” “braised veal cheek with rehydrated grapes, Jerusalem artichoke and pepper jus” and a “pavé au chocolat with candied citrus and chocolate sorbet” as dessert.

To ensure a bit of perspective, we‘ve invited a winemaker from afar: Jürgen Stiegelmar from the tradition-rich Burgenland estate of the same name, presenting his distinctive, terroir-driven wines.

Three generations of his family work at the estate. Industry experts gush in particular about the fantastic Chardonnay vineyards and the Ungerberg, home to the estate‘s Zweigelt. Doris and Josef Farthofer will then bring the evening to its delicious close, presenting a selection of their more than 30 organic, sustainably produced spirits from pears, plums and other fruit from Lower Austria‘s Mostviertel. Keep an eye out for their organic vodka and brilliant O‘Gin as well, both of which have won awards at international trade fairs.

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DIE BESTEN FLASCHEN HABEN EINEN VOGEL! DAHINTER

STECKT IMMER EIN GUTER WEIN

VDP. DIE PRÄDIKATSWEINGÜTER

Im Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter arbeiten rund 200 Elitewinzer mit Leidenscha�, Qualitätsbewusstsein und Bodenha�ung daran, herkun�sgeprägte Weine auf höchstem Niveau zu produzieren.

Jahr für Jahr bringen sie Außergewöhnliches auf die Flasche – in allen Qualitätsstufen vom VDP.GUTSWEIN bis zur VDP.GROSSEN LAGE®.

Dafür garan�ert der VDP.Traubenadler.

Nur die besten Flaschen haben einen Vogel!

VDP.Ehrenwort!

Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter e.V. (VDP) · +49 (0) 6131/94565-0 · vdp@vdp.de Alle Infos zum Verband auf www.vdp.de

/praedikatsweingueter

BETWEEN HEAVEN AND HELL BEATIFIC RIESLINGS FROM THE RHEINGAU‘S GRAPE WHISPERER, GUNTER KÜNSTLER

Fotos: R. Zacherl, M. Woest & M. Kotaska: © Ingo Gebhard, G. Künstler © Magda Rogler Fotografie

I

‘ll be damned if I know which one‘s the boss,” winegrower Gunter Künstler once said, speaking about the purported hierarchy of his Hochheim vineyards. Be that as it may, the delicate and deep Rieslings from the Hochheimer Hölle are renowned for their aging potential, monumental power and mineral elegance. “Hölle” means hell in German, but one sip and you‘ll think heaven. Or, if we want to settle on the earthly plane: Künstler‘s wines are liquid monuments to nature.

The wines of the Hochheimer Hölle are at the center of this evening at Schmidt Z&KO, and offer a fascinating starting point for an experiment: what happens when four divine chefs are asked to cook up something devilish? TV chefs Ralf Zacherl and Mario Kotaska will be joined behind the stove by rising Berlin chef Marcel Woest, and together will produce a 5-course meal to pair with the wines from the Höllenberg. Your hellish thirst will be slaked by no less than Gunter Künstler himself. Perhaps Oscar Wilde best expressed what this quartet has in common: “I‘m a man of simple tastes. I‘m always satisfied with the best.”

If that might apply to you too, then this

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5-course menu with accompanying wines Schmidt Z&KO Rheinstraße 45-46 | 12161 Berlin Admission: 6:30 | Start: 7:00 pm

129,will be an evening of sublime entertainment. Each bottle from the Hölle vineyard brings a different approach and personality to the affair: young and mature, powerful and soft, closed and communicative, mysterious and transparent. We might mention at this point that the name of the vineyard actually has nothing to do with Lucifer‘s realm – but perhaps it‘s better to let Gunter Künstler do it himself, accompanied by a glass of his wine.

Besides, with this angelic lineup of presenters, it‘s guaranteed to be a hell of a ride…

Gunter Künstler

Ralf Zacherl, Marcel Woest & Mario Kotaska

59

All chefs – Gala 2017

A ROUSING END… S

ometimes you just need to go ahead and treat yourself to something,“ we told ourselves last year as we moved the closing gala to the lovely Waldorf Astoria. The new venue inherently made this event, already the highlight of our festival, into a smaller and significantly more exclusive affair. It also made it all the more successful, leading us to immediately book the ballroom again for 2018. If you manage to score a ticket for this evening, be sure to book yourself a room in the hotel for the night as well: “Go ahead and treat yourself…,” you know the drill.

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In 2017 eat! berlin celebrated its gala soirée with 170 very happy guests. It was a glittering evening, thanks in no small part to the culinary efforts of our festival stars: world-class chefs Marco Müller , Philipp Liebisch , Daniel Lengsfeld and Jörg Behrend,, TV chef Felicitas Then and the dedicated team at the Waldorf Astoria, as well as the young but highly professional service team

Sven Oswald & Daniel Finger

Su.

4.3.

Flying food and 5-course menu with accompanying wines Waldorf Astoria Berlin Hardenbergstraße 28 | 10623 Berlin Admission: 5:00 pm | Start: 5:30 pm

169,from the OSZ Brillat-Savarin vocational school. There were outstanding wines, including from Wilhelm Weil of the VDP Weingut Robert Weil. We ate well. We drank well. We reveled.

The evening also included the prize ceremony, an absolute highlight because there truly was so much to praise. Wilhelm Weil received the Lifetime Achievement award for his work

Arne Anker

at the tradition-rich, globally renowned Weingut Robert Weil. Michael Prinz zu Salm-Salm, the honorary president of the Verband deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP) presented the award.

Gesumino Pireddu, described many times over as a magnificent host and master of the carving knife, received the prize as a Promoter of Gourmet Culture.

The prestigious People‘s Choice award was shared by Sonja Frühsammer , whose “Dwarf Menu” bewitched guests at the Komische Oper, and to Felicitas Then, who held two sessions of twelve guests each in her own Neukölln apartment – quite the home field advantage, to be fair. Young and rising talent from the gastronomy business earned their praise too: Frederik Ohlms from the kitchen at Sarah Wiener im Hamburger Bahnhof received the 2017 Siegfried Rockendorf Prize for young chefs, conveyed by Patricia Bröhm, Edi­tor-in-Chief of Gault&Millau.

The 2017 Henry Busch Prize for young service talent went to Julius Wiescher

Daniel Schmidthaler

Fotos: S. Oswald & D. Finger: © Ingo Gebhard, A. Anker: © CURIO, D. Schmidthaler: © Christian Kielmann

GALA IN THE WALDORF ASTORIA

Schedule and program

from Restaurant Balthazar 2, presented

by Frank Deutschmann of Sommelier Exklusiv Berlin.

This crowning gala event of the 2018 eat! berlin festival will once again be held in the foyer and ball room of the Waldorf Astoria – when it works this well, you stick with it. We‘ll once again start with caviar, this time from Brandenburg‘s Forellenhof Rottstock / Resort 25 Teiche, as well as freshly shucked oysters from our partner Metro Berlin. The fine evening will be moderated by the fine moderators from radioeins, Sven Oswald and Daniel Finger. We look forward to prominent names such as star chefs Arne Anker from Pauly Saal, Daniel Schmidthaler from Alte Schule, Philipp Liebisch from Juwel in Kirschau and pâtissier René Frank from Coda Dessert Bar, each of whom

will be spoiling us with one course of the menu. The time in the foyer will be lightened with two amuses-bouches from the Waldorf Astoria team, with dim sum from the chefs at Restaurant Ming Dynastie served from large bamboo steamers before the prize ceremony. We‘ll enjoy wonderful wines from Robert Weil (VDP), Von Winning (VDP), Weingut Stigler (VDP), Prinz von Hessen (VDP), and the Staatsweingut Freiburg (VDP). We‘ll also nosh on fine OHDE Marzipan from Neukölln, a project supported by entrepreneur Hammid Djada.

Proceeds from the sale of the marzipan are earmarked for a foundation that helps disadvantaged youths in that district earn a spot at university.

Come ready to be surprised, but don‘t wait too long to treat yourself: these tickets go quick.

5 pm

Doors open reception in the foyer with hors dóeuvres from Waldorf Astoria

6 pm

Ballroom opens Culinary greeting from Ming Dynastie

6:30 pm Awards ceremony begins Lifetime Achievement, Promoter of Gourmet Culture, People‘s Choice award 2017, Siegfried-Rockendorf-Preis (turn to page 54 for more on our awards) 7:30 pm 4-course meal is served The evening´s chefs include: • Arne Anker (Pauly Saal) • Daniel Schmidthaler (Alte Schule) • Philipp Liebisch (Juwel in Kirschau) • René Frank (Coda Dessert Bar) • Wine pairing by: Robert Weil, Von Winning, Weingut Stigler, Prinz von Hessen, Staatsweingut Freiburg

Foto R. Frank: © ett la benn

10:30 pm Conclusion with further delicious treats

Philipp Liebisch

René Frank

Hairen Chao

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THE EAT! BERLIN TEAM We keep Berlin cooking We are gourmets, wine aficionados, Berlin lovers and entrepreneurs, bonded by a vision of a Berlin gourmet festival that truly fits our city. We are neither a tourism office nor a hotel association. We are backed by neither big business nor a political lobby. All of which liberates us to design the eat! berlin gourmet festival precisely the way we think Berlin wants it. eat! berlin is produced by: Bernhard Moser eat! berlin festival director Originally a chef, restaurant host and trained sommelier, now lead sommelier at the Wine School of Berlin and book author; always Austrian.

Can be visited at the wine school, read in Genuss Magazine from the Tagesspiegel and occasionally heard and seen on rbb (TV and radio).

Sina Moser eat! berlin business director A hospitality specialist and now the organi­ zational heart of the wine school – and of eat! berlin. Privately a connoisseur of fine vegetarian cuisine and an amateur patissiére. The grand closing gala is her baby.

Claudia and Siegbert Mattheis mattheis. Werbeagentur GmbH The managing directors of the mattheis. advertising agency are co-founders of eat! berlin and it is their agency that gives the festival its face. Whether it’s the logo, magazine or homepage: it all starts with them.

Both are passionate fans of wine and fine dining. Among other hobbies, Siegbert Mattheis serves as Chairman of the Berlin Wine Association. www. mattheis-berlin.de

IMPRINT 62

Publisher: eat! berlin GmbH Haubachstraße 15 10585 Berlin Telefon: +49 (0)30 2345 6847 mahlzeit@eat-berlin-festival.de www.eat-berlin.de V.i.S.d.P.: Bernhard Moser b.moser@eat-berlin.de

Manuela Hutzler Press and communications An interior designer by trade, this is her fifth year supporting the eat! berlin team. Her skills in PR and communication with guests and gastronomes are self taught, and she’s proven an adept and enthusiastic organizer.

Pia Negri Photographer She studied publicity and theater, all while running her own food blog and working for gourmet periodicals. Her two grand passions: fine vegetarian cuisine and photography. She is the eye of eat! berlin, and many of the photographs in this magazine came from her.

Kerstin Kuchmetzki PR Work Her background in publicity and business ad­ ministration was previously applied to the film industry, producing communications campaigns for feature films and film festivals. As a wine aficionado, passionate amateur chef and host of a supper club, she’s right at home in the world of eat! berlin.

Translation english magazine: Paula & Steven Sidore / Weinstory.de Title and photography: (unless otherwise specified) Pia Negri Background facts: © Stillfx – Fotolia.com Title: © JazzIRT – iStockphoto.com

Reproduction may only occur with the express written permission of the publisher. All information is supplied to the best of our knowledge, a guarantee for the correctness of the given information cannot be given. Subject to change without notice. As of today. 08.11.2017.

Further information with dates and prices under www.eat-berlin.de

All tickets can be purchased here:

Magazine concept and layout: mattheis. Werbeagentur GmbH www.mattheis-berlin.de Authors: Bernhard Moser Michael Pöppl

More informations:

www.eat-berlin.de

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