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Media Pack 2014

MEDIA SALES Media Shed Ltd

22a Market Hill Chatteris Cambridgeshire PE16 6BA Tel: 0845 226 0477 Fax: 0845 226 0377 E: natt@media-shed.co.uk


Media Pack 2014

THE ESSENTIAL MAGAZINE FOR SALON OWNERS

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013 | £3.50

THE ESSENTIAL MAGAZINE FOR SALON OWNERS

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2013 | £3.50

THE ESSENTIAL MAGAZINE FOR SALON OWNERS

MAY/JUNE 2013 | £3.50

Colour card offers greater flexibility over allergy testing Paul Curry – my vision for a new NHF Minimum wage to be an electoral battleground NHF’s discount deal to maximise your website

Members’ survey reveals what makes salon owners tick NHF wins award for its welcome pack

Parking curbs are killing the high street, warn salons Government plan for employer-led apprenticeships

‘Employment Allowance’ to benefit small businesses Check out three new member benefits

Education ‘expert group’ begins work Competition hotting up for Britain’s Best

SalonFocus is the essential read for salon owners, published by the National Hairdressers’ Federation • Carrying your message to 10,000 salon owners, between them running more than 14,000 salons and with a combined annual turnover exceeding £2.5bn • The NHF is the largest, most authoritative voice of the UK hairdressing, barbering and beauty sectors • NHF members are solely responsible for annual purchases of more than £350m across a wide spectrum of products and services • Mixing hard-hitting industry news with informative business features that help members in the day-to-day running of their salon and growing a successful business • Helping salon owners keep up to date with styles and trends in products, services and fashion


Media Pack 2014

Macadamia_Salon_Focus_h.res_Layout 1 02/04/2013 18:48 P

NEWS

Generation gap? Competition

Just how hard is it for young people to break into hairdressing these days? Salon owner Marie Jennings was horrified by the attitude of some salons when her daughter set off to follow in her footsteps. I was only too pleased when my 16-year-old daughter, Scarlett, turned around and said she wanted to become a hairdresser. But her experience has shown me just how different – and difficult – getting into our industry is now compared to how it was when I started 20 years ago.

FINALLY IN THE INDUSTRY: SCARLETT (CENTRE) WITH FELLOW APPRENTICES

Back in the late 1980s when I left school I wrote letters to a number of local salons explaining I was hoping to become a fully qualified hairdresser and asking if they would consider training me. I briefly noted my hobbies and my exam results. A few days later, either by letter or a phone call, I’d have an appointment for an interview in my diary. All in all, just from those letters, I had three interviews, all of whom said yes and I simply chose which one I wanted to join. I was on £36 a week, which was £10 more than pupils on the government’s Youth Training Scheme (YTS) as it was then known, which made me feel I was very much on the “upmarket” side of the learning process! Perks of the job I spent two years cleaning, washing hair and basically running around for the stylists doing the jobs they didn’t want to do, all excellent training looking back. One perk was that sometimes you’d get a tip after washing a client’s hair, something that today is very rare as there are so many people involved in the salon the tea girl often gets forgotten. It was agreed I could have a day release to go to college to ensure I had

some proper training and, in the final year, I was eventually allowed to put into practice what I had learnt at college and become an actual stylist. I feel I’ve never looked back. For Scarlett, however, things have been very different, whether as a result of the wider economic environment, the jobs’ climate here in Norwich, or just because of the way our industry has changed. She had to go around almost every hairdresser in the city handing out her CV. This did, admittedly, lead to a number of interviews for apprenticeship vacancies. But many salons did not even bother to reply. Trials and knock-backs Others asked her to come in and do a trial. On paper, of course, that’s understandable, but the reality was it meant she ended up working extremely hard and unpaid for a day with no guarantee of anything at the end of it. On departure, she was always told they would let her know, though often they never did. The fact Scarlett already had a whole year’s experience as a Saturday girl in a salon didn’t appear to make any difference, although it probably did give her more confidence when she actually came to completing her trials. After waiting patiently for one salon to ring her back, my daughter eventually rang them. The answer? The salon needed to run yet more trials, so they would call her when they had seen everyone and, no, they couldn’t give her an idea of when that would be! At another salon, she ended up working for them for two days, again with no indication as to whether there was any work or an apprenticeship at the end of the process. In another she was even told she would have to do more than three days “on trial”. I agree it is important trainees fit in and feel comfortable, but three days does begin to feel a little bit like exploitation and cheap labour.

Marie Jennings is owner of Marie’s Cuts in Norwich, Norfolk

A lot of the time Scarlett felt in limbo, waiting for phone calls and juggling trials with other trials. There were even times when she was unable to attend for a trial because she was already booked up for another trial! Lack of opportunity What Scarlett’s experience has shown me is how the whole initial access into hairdressing, learning the art of hairdressing, is now so different and so very deeply competitive. An apprenticeship in hairdressing is never a “soft” option – you’re always expected to work hard and there will be jobs that are tedious or unpleasant, but which you need to do to learn about life on the salon floor. But the lack of opportunities nowadays for young people means employers have so much more scope to be picky. In Scarlett’s case she has at last got an apprenticeship, although there is still no guarantee of a job after two years when her apprenticeship ends. But it is a start. All in all, getting a foot in the industry proved to be a competitive and draining process; it may be worth us as salon owners recognising how different the situation is for many young people today compared with how it was for us. Having said that, it is certainly true that making it so difficult for young people will separate the less enthusiastic from the serious and hard working. There were times when Scarlett really did question whether she wanted to carry on trying to become a stylist. I’m proud of the fact she persevered; she recognises what she has achieved even to get this far and has a deeper respect for the hairdressing industry as a result. What’s more, I’m sure this attitude and toughness will stand her in good stead in her career as a hairdresser, whatever future challenges this industry throws at her.

www.britainsbest.me

Remember, remember the 17th of November!

There are 11 competitions to enter across five categories: • Ladies fashion (senior and junior) • Men’s fashion (senior and junior) • Newcomer • British bride • Colour of the day Come and make a noise! Even if you don’t wish to compete, why not come and cheer along your favourites or just soak up the atmosphere at what is set to be an intense, pulsating day of passion, talent and drama. Spectator tickets are still available, and will be on sale right up to the day as well as on the door on November 17. Tickets are just £5. This year for the first time eight

of the floor competitions have been opened up to international as well as UK competitors, and will be judged by international as well as British judges. So watch the best of Britain compete against the best of “the rest”! The winners of the Britain’s Best ‘Click ‘n’ Send’ Head of the Year Photographic Competition and the Britain’s Best Text Vote Popularity Poll will also be announced in Birmingham on November 17, as will be the winner of the NHF’s Photographic Stylist of the Year competition. So get yourself amongst the winners, and come and join us at the Birmingham Metropole!

The clock is ticking but there’s still time to get your entries in to this year’s Britain’s Best! The deadline for the floor competition – November 8 – is approaching fast so you’ll need to hurry. The competition, being held at the Birmingham Metropole Hotel, has already been proving popular. The quality of entries has been extremely high and numbers are already up on last year. But there is still time to join in – and compete to be crowned as one of Britain’s best hairdressers! Go to www.britainsbest.me for full details.

A word from our sponsor…

Meet Jamie Anyone coming to Britain’s Best will have an opportunity to meet British Hairdresser of the Year nominee and X Factor celebrity stylist Jamie Stevens. Jamie will judging the floor competition as well as holding a Q&A session revealing the secrets of his success and all the behind-the-scenes gossip about what it’s like to be one of Britain’s most in-demand TV stylists! It’s not to be missed! All the details can be found at www.britainsbest.me

NEWS

Industry on possible collision course with politicians over minimum wage

COLUMN

This year Britain’s Best is proudly being sponsored by L’Oréal Professionnel. L’Oréal Professionnel is one of the hairdressing industry’s leading educators, and supports the country’s most talented hairdressers through its academybased training. Our courses are run in four academies across the UK and Ireland, including Central St Martin’s in London, as well as in many additional regional centres. For more information contact 0161 834 9594, email intacademy@uk.loreal.com or contact your L’Oréal Professionnel account manager.

The national minimum wage (NMW) may have gone up last month, but NHF members are adamant it now needs to be left frozen, arguing that, in a labourintensive industry such as hairdressing, wage pressures are tough enough. Against a backdrop of political and public debate about wages the NHF carried out a poll of members over the autumn as part of its latest submission to the Low Pay Commission (LPC), the body that recommends to government the rate at which the NMW should be set in future. This found more than three quarters of members – 76.5 per cent – want to see the adult rate left as it is, with an even higher percentage – 82.6 per cent – wanting the apprentices’ rate also frozen. More than two thirds want the government to change the current one-year limit on over-19s getting the apprentices’ NMW before moving on to the higher adult rate, an anomaly members have highlighted simply means potentially talented older trainees cannot get a foot in the door of the industry. Last April the government overruled the LPC, which had recommended the apprentices’ NMW be kept unchanged this year, and instead went ahead with the 3p rise that came into force last month (see panel). However, there does appear to be a danger of the industry swimming against a growing tide of political opinion about the NMW. Debate around low pay, job insecurity, living standards, a living wage and zerohour contracts dominated much of this autumn’s party political conference season – meaning these are likely to be key themes of the 2015 General Election. In September, for example, Labour leader Ed Miliband pledged a future Labour government would, if anything, seek to accelerate increases in the NMW. The party is also thought to be looking at the possibility of enforcing a higher rate for some specific industries, for example financial services. The Conservatives, too, according to an investigation by the BBC’s

£

MINIMUM

WAGE

Newsnight programme, are also understood to be looking at ways of increasing the adult rate. Other options believed to be under debate include offering tax breaks to companies that pay at a level higher than the minimum and the feasibility of making the wage more industry- or sector-based, so requiring companies above a certain size or profit level to pay a higher NMW. As part of its deliberations for the 2014 rate, the LPC during the autumn met businesses around the country, including hair salons, visiting Lincoln, Boston, Northern Ireland, Perth and Dundee. In its submission to the LPC, the NHF made clear how strongly salons felt about the NMW, especially how constant increases simply eroded pay differentials between junior and more senior staff. The members’ poll found two thirds – 67.4 per cent – agreed the wage had narrowed the pay gap between junior and senior staff. As one member who responded to the survey put it: “My senior staff have spent years building their client base and the money they bring in carries the junior staff. However, NMW means there is only a token difference in wages.” Another said: “I find it difficult to pay my senior staff what they deserve as the trainees get so much. Older staff members who bring in the money resent the younger staff.” On the apprentices’ NMW and over-

19s, another salon owner made the point: “It penalises this age group, who are often the most appropriate employees.” Others described it as “ageist”, leaving over-19s discriminated against before they even started. “As a result of this rule we look to employ 16- and 17-year olds. We don’t recruit people 19 and over, it’s too expensive,” conceded one. “If you take on a trainee who is 19 it means after one year they are on the same wage as a stylist who is bringing money into the salon,” complained another. A further key area for concern raised by the NHF was enforcement. The government in October signalled it was going to step up “naming and shaming” of businesses that consistently fail to pay the wage. Last year a hairdresser in Leicester (not an NHF member) was the first to be named in this way. While, on a positive note, the survey found nearly 95 per cent of members felt confident of the NMW rules and how to apply them, the poll also identified widespread ignorance among salon owners about the so-called “accommodation offset” that is part of the wage. Under the terms of the offset, accommodation provided by an employer can be taken into account when calculating the wage, up to a total of £4.91 a day or £34.37 a week. However, if an employer charges

PAGE 8 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013

COLOURING: NEW RECORD CARD FOR SALONS

NHF salons and barber shops are being encouraged to make full use of a landmark new allergy alert colour “record card” developed by the Federation and other leading hairdressing industry bodies that offers stylists greater flexibility as to when, or even whether, they need to carry out an allergy alert test pre-colouring. The Allergy Alert Consultation and Colour Record Card was launched in September and is the culmination of months of work by the NHF and the

Freelance Hair & Beauty Federation (FHBF), working in consultation with the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA). The move is also being seen as a key way of communicating to clients why having an allergy alert test 48 hours before colouring, something many salons say clients find irritating, is such an important health and safety safeguard. Last year, NHF immediate past president and celebrity colourist Mark Coray was the figurehead of high-level consumer PR campaign, Colour with Confidence, led by the CTPA, to drive home to the public the message that allergy alert testing was a vital protection. The Allergy Alert Consultation and Colour Record Card will allow stylists to keep a clear record of a client’s colour history, allowing them to gauge whether, when they next make a colour appointment, they need an allergy alert test 48 hours beforehand or if it is safe for a treatment to go ahead without a test. The card can be used by salons insured by Coversure Insurance Services, the NHF’s preferred insurance broker and broker Just Hair Insurance, as well as freelancers or self-employed hairdressers specifically covered via the FHBF’s members’ insurance policy.

The card simply gives a clearer picture of a client’s test history and in what circumstances a test may not be needed. So, for example, for a loyal, repeat client who has visited the salon very recently it may be that a test is not required. Conversely, a client may have visited recently but, the card will show, is now due for their annual allergy alert test. Mark Coray described the card as “a major advance for our industry”. “It will not only give peace of mind to salons that they are doing the right thing by their clients when it comes to colouring but, we believe, will show clients very clearly why regular allergy alert testing is so important,” he said. The cards come in packs of 100 (including a set of guidelines) and are free of charge, apart from £4.50 postage, for NHF members. They can be bought through the online shop, at www.nhf. info or via phone, on 0845 345 6500. A series of workshops are being held around the country during November to introduce members to the cards and how they work. Full details can be found online or on Events, page 33.

length gloves when washing hair and limited the amount of time they could spend with clients on the salon floor. Last year the Health and Safety Executive calculated that the proposals, if enacted to the full, could have cost UK hairdressing salons and barbers as much as £75m a year (SalonFocus, July/August 2012). However, the NHF has cautioned the industry not to assume as a result the proposals are now dead and buried. The EC has said it will instead carry out “impact assessments” to gauge the cost of introducing such laws in the UK and elsewhere. These are likely to take place early

The NHF’s Tried and Tested panel of top salon owners gives its regular verdict on a range of established and new product and equipment.

The product:

Sunjunkie Sunless Bodymist

Hair: NHF Inspire art team

Description: Sunjunkie’s Sunless Bodymist is described as “airbrush tan in a can”. It sprays at a 360o angle “allowing you to create a professional airbrushed salon finish from the comfort of your own home”, says the company. The idea is for the product to be used to enhance or extend tan or simply cover areas that may have faded.

Creative direction: Adam Szabo and Tiziana di Marcelli, from Trevor Sorbie Art Team Photography: Orshe Luca Clothes styling: Adonis Kentros Make-up: Megumi Matsuno

Did it work? Our testers said: “Yes.” “Of the staff who used it, I can confirm it works as directed.” “Yes, and almost streak-free.” Would you use it in your salon? Our testers said: As our testers only ran hair salons, in that context the answer was “no”. But as one tester added, “my staff loved it, and love spray tans”. Was there anything that stood out, good or bad? Our testers said: “A nice, natural colour.” “It produces a good tan look.” Any other comments? Our testers said: “I would recommend it.” “It was very easy to apply.”

next year and therefore it is possible the proposals, or a version of them, could yet be resurrected. Nevertheless, NHF immediate past president Mark Coray, who led the NHF’s delegation to Brussels, welcomed the decision to pause the process. “The European Commission’s decision is a huge relief for the UK industry. The additional spending on health and safety as outlined in these proposals was disproportionate to the benefits gained, especially for small businesses. “UK salons can now get on with doing what they do best: providing an excellent, safe service for their clients,” he said.

HHHH www.nhf.info www.nhf.info

www.nhf.info

Cutting-edge, not-to-be-missed, exclusive, incisive, intelligent.

The latest collection from NHF Inspire, in conjunction with the team’s 2012/2013 mentor The Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team

New EU safety laws on hold – at least for now The European Commission (EC) has decided not to press ahead with proposed health and safety reforms that it had been feared could have cost the industry as much as £75m a year. But the NHF, while warmly welcoming the move, has warned it does not necessarily mean the proposals have gone away for good. The decision was taken by the EC in October as part of a wider initiative to curb red tape. It means it will not be taking forward proposals by EU Coiffure and UNI Europa Hair & Beauty that could have banned salon staff from wearing high heels, required them to wear elbow-

TOOLBOX: TRIED & TESTED

Tried & Tested

• The Allergy Alert Consultation and Colour Record Card: your questions answered, page 22

PAGE 16 SALONFOCUS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013

NEWS

INSPIRED

Colour ‘record card’ to offer more flexibility on allergy testing

SALONFOCUS PAGE PAGE 17 17 MAY/JUNE 2013 SALONFOCUS

Tried and Tested overall rating: 4

The product:

Black and White Genuine Pluko Hair Dressing Pomade Description: Black and White’s Genuine Pluko Hair Dressing Pomade is a versatile styling pomade that “allows you to mould, sculpt and create texture; the perfect product for channelling the ‘Wet Look’”, the company says. Did it work? Our testers said: “It is a product that is very versatile and acceptable to both male and female clients”. “Yes we also used it as a barrier cream for our hands; a good wax and quite versatile.” “No.” Would you use it in your salon? Our testers said: “We use it already.” “We have used it for many years in the salon and it has good retail appeal.” “No.”

Description: Macadamia’s Natural Oil Deep Repair Masque is an “intensely nourishing deep conditioning masque”, says the company. It is formulated from an infusion of Macadamia and Argan oils, alongside Tea Tree and Camomile. A single application after a daily shampoo will “deliver an intense boost”. The product is particularly targeted towards winter-damaged hair, “eliminating the possibility of dryness, brittleness and split ends while infusing shine and locking in moisture to keep hair looking and feeling healthy”, adds the company. Did it work? Our testers said: “Yes.” “It certainly gave a fantastic result; one of our clients with an ongoing problem was over the moon with the result.” “Really good, but I’d prefer it in a tube rather than a tub for

PAGE 28 SALONFOCUS MAY/JUNE 2013

MEET THE TEAM

The hottest practical content around including:

May/June 2014 • Preparing your business for sale/exit • Update on allergy alert cards • Managing cash/cashless tips • Software special (topics tbc) July/August 2014 • Ramifications of Scots independence vote • Handling complaints • How to SEO/add mobile functionality to your website • Relationships: managing your local press/profile • Equipment: hair extensions September/October 2014 • Succession planning in a family business • Ways to reduce your fuel bills • How to manage online reviews • Relationships: finding a copywriter • Equipment: male grooming November/December 2014 • Cashless rewards/motivators for your staff • How a grant could help your salon and/or ins and outs of peer-to-peer lending • How to improve client experience/customer service • Relationships: effective photo-shoots • Equipment: ways a wholesaler can save you money

INSPIRED

Sizzling style collections

BEAUTY

Essential advice for boosting salons’ beauty offers

REGULARS

Tried & Tested @NHF - social media

Tina Beaumont is director at the National Hairdressers’ Federation, including co-ordinating the Tried & Tested and Inspired pages and general Federation news and activities

Hilary Hall is chief executive of the National Hairdressers’ Federation and publisher of SalonFocus

Tori Priestley is marketing executive for the National Hairdressers’ Federation, including co-ordinating coverage for the magazine’s Federation Focus, Events and @nhfederation pages

Julie Bland is the designer and print manager of SalonFocus.

Natalie Tuerena is the advertisement sales manager on SalonFocus

Any other general comments Our testers said: “It is a product that should be used as required; using too much gives problems on desired style.” “The only thing is it has hard to wash out if a lot has been used.” “The product does not come out of the hair.”

HHH

Tried and Tested overall rating: 3.7

The product:

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013 SALONFOCUS PAGE 5

Nic Paton is the editor of SalonFocus. He has written extensively for the national, regional and trade press

Was there anything that stood out, good or bad? Our testers said: “It is good to work with; you can get any desired result by using the correct amount.” “Excellent.” “It was too greasy.”

Macadamia Natural Oil Deep Repair Masque

FEATURES

March/April 2014 • Pensions auto-enrolment update • Ins and outs of business continuity planning • Challenges of salon funding/finance • Relationships: using an accounting technician • Equipment: ergonomic backwash chairs

How Tried and Tested works:

The SalonFocus Tried and Tested panel is made up of NHF members who are not paid for their opinions. The rating is the opinion of the panel alone. Manufacturers who wish to submit items for testing should contact Tina Beaumont at NHF head office on tina.beaumont@nhf.info. Three samples will normally be required. Being accepted is not a guarantee a review will be published.

ease of use and to prevent wastage.” Would you use it in your salon? Our testers said: “Yes.” “It is a product that would be an asset in the salon and I would have no hesitation in using it.” Was there anything that stood out, either good or bad? Our testers said: “The aroma is very good and it is very easy to comb through.” “The fact it is in a tub and you are not able to pump it does make it feel like it could be very wasteful.” “It gave a lovely shine.” Any other general comments? Our testers said: “I would recommend it without hesitation.” “Overall a lovely product, as it is nice and thick, but I’d like it in a different package.” “Easy to use.”

HHH H

Tried and Tested overall rating: 4.3


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Salon media pack 2014