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Mary Wojcik’s Fashion Journal


Table of Contents Entry #1................................................1 Entry #2...............................................3 Entry #3...............................................6 Entry #4...............................................7 Entry #5...............................................8 Entry #6..............................................10 Entry #7..............................................11 Entry #8..............................................12 Entry #9..............................................13 Entry #10.............................................14 Entry #11..............................................15 Entry #12.............................................16 Entry #13............................................17 Entry #14............................................18


Entry #1 Women’s Wear Daily 17 February 2012

1.

Retail Apparel Prices Rise

WASHINGTON — Retail apparel prices rose a seasonally adjusted 0.9 percent in January compared with December, as merchants regained some pricing power after heavy discounting during the holidays, the U.S. Labor Department’s Consumer Price Index showed Friday. Women’s apparel prices rose 1.2 percent in January, while men’s apparel prices rose 1.7 percent. On a year-over-year basis, all retail apparel prices were 4.7 percent higher last month compared with January 2011, as men’s prices increased 6.3 percent and women’s prices rose 4.2 percent. The overall Consumer Price Index showed some new signs of inflationary pressure, increasing 0.2 percent in January. Core retail prices, excluding volatile food and energy prices, also advanced 0.2 percent in January compared with December.

Within the men’s category, prices on suits, sport coats and outerwear spiked 6.3 percent in the month, while prices on pants and shorts rose 1.9 percent and prices for shirts and sweaters increased 0.1 percent. In women’s, retail prices on suits and separates increased 2.7 percent last month, while prices on outerwear rose 0.4 percent and prices on underwear, nightwear, sportswear and accessories were up 0.8 percent. “I’m thinking previous rounds of input price increases are still filtering through,” said Jeet Dutta, senior economist at Moody’s Analytics. “It would seem retailers are having success based on the apparel CPI.” Dutta said he believes the pricing power that retailers regained was linked to tight inventory control management during the holidays. “If the job market really does accelerate to a very strong pace, demand would also be accordingly strong and then retailers can have a modicum of pricing power,” he said. However, “If gas prices go beyond the $3.50-a-gallon range that we are in right now, that would hurt the pricing power in retail categories.”


2. Chris Christopher Jr., senior principle economist at IHS Global Insight, said the 0.9 percent increase in apparel prices was “transitory.” IHS is forecasting a moderation in retail apparel prices this year, as factors such as rising gasoline prices further dampen consumer confidence and purchasing power. “By June, pump prices could surpass $4 a gallon solely on normal seasonal movements,” Christopher said. “The consistent upward ticking of gasoline prices will lower consumer mood even though there has been significant improvement on the jobs front.”

Summary: Over the last couple of months retail apparel prices have been on the rise.This has showed that merchants are starting to regain some of the pricing power which after the holiday’s deep discounts. It is said that the prices have rose 0.9 percent from December to January. Men’s apparel prices seemed to have a bigger change than women’s. All of men’s retail apparel prices increased 6.3 percent when women’s prices rose 4.2 percent. ! While some believe that the retailers regaining of power was due to a tight inventory after the holidays, some are nervous that it will go back down because of the possibility of higher gas prices this summer. Chris Christopher Jr , senior principle economist at IHS Global Insight said “ The consistent upward ticking of gasoline prices will lower consumer mood even though there has been significant improvement on the jobs front.” ! The retail industry will ultimately be affected by outside factors for it’s future success. However, as for now a rise in retail sales would lead to there being more job opportunities within the field because stores will have more money coming in and will be able to afford new employees. We will have to wait and see just how long this power will be in the hands of the retailer before high gasoline prices have their way.


Entry #2

3.

The Wallstreet Journal 19 January 2012

The Shopping Science Behind Lucky’s Revamp ! The company's new merchandise strategy dictates where to display the latest shipments of the "Charlie" denim cut and how to roll up the cuffs of skinny jeans in store displays (one roll, on only the top pair in a stack). An inch-thick document for store employees lays out which clothes should be paired on mannequins and where to hang bracelets. "They say retail's in the details," says David DeMattei, chief executive of Lucky Brand. He is leading a makeover of Lucky Brand along with Patrick Wade, the brand's creative director. They recently imparted the new strategy to 75 managers in a pep rally at the prototype store here at the Century City Mall. But shoppers aren't supposed to detect all this planning. "We don't want it to look like a science," says Mr. DeMattei. "We just want it to look relaxed." The big question is how shoppers will respond to the new Lucky Brand. Several years into Restoration Hardware's new look, many consumers are still unaware of the changes there. Mr. DeMattei says loyal customers have already accepted the new Lucky, as change has crept into the collections over the past year or so. "Our big job now is to grow our customer base," he says. The changes include more-feminine fits, "super stretch" denim for women, fashion collections that take note of runway trends (such as the 1940s-influenced florals currently in stores), the introduction of shoes and accessories, and bumped-up ad campaigns with name models such as David Gandy, shot by fashion photographer Carter Smith. The company has embarked on an aggressive growth strategy, pledging to grow revenue to more than $1 billion from $386.9 million in 2010. All this is being accomplished with a barrage of minute changes. For instance, sales associates now place purchases in tissue paper at checkout. "We hate clothes thrown in a bag," says Mr. DeMattei. And Lucky launched a catalog -- a seemingly old-school move meant to inspire people to head to its website.


4. Lucky Brand is a focus of its parent, Liz Claiborne Inc., which announced its intention to change its name to Fifth & Pacific after agreeing last fall to sell the Liz Claiborne brand to J.C. Penney Co. The company has said it will center its efforts on its three "global lifestyle brands" -- Juicy Couture, Kate Spade and Lucky Brand. The company in early 2010 hired Mr. Wade and Mr. DeMattei, who have been partners in life as well as work for 27 years, since working at Gap Inc. They came out of their San Francisco retirement, sold a vacation home in the Napa Valley, and moved, along with their two dachshunds, to Los Angeles. There, they have been implementing a methodical retailing strategy that they have applied before, most recently at Coach and previously at J. Crew, Pottery Barn, Williams Sonoma Home and West Elm. The strategy includes increasing the number of retail stores and outlets to 350 from 165, pushing growth in Europe and Asia, and developing or expanding children's, home and accessories lines. They have built new headquarters in downtown L.A., where they are set to move later this month. They've been pressing for the attention of the fashion press: In New York last month, Lucky fitted 27 fashion-magazine editors with four to five pairs of custom jeans each. And they have added 500,000 customers to the email database. But the stores are at the center of the strategy. Lucky Brand, known for its country-style jeans for urbanites -- and the saucy red "Lucky You" stitched inside the fly -- was once marketed somewhat like an upscale Levi's. Its stores had the wood-paneled interiors and jumbled look of a trendy shack. To Mr. DeMattei and Mr. Wade, the stores were failing to entice shoppers with cleanly styled looks that could be part of a Lucky Brand lifestyle. The stores' role is to "romance" the customer, they say. The fashion brands that romance them include Brunello Cucinelli, Paul Smith, James Perse, Apple, and a primary competitor, Ralph Lauren's RRL label. So far, 50 of the 165 stores have undergone the renovations, and another 35 are expected to do so this year. That includes adding raffia wallpaper for a more homey feel, painting the black and galvanized-metal trim a cheery white, and pulling merchandise from ceiling-level shelves to a more accessible level. "It starts with the windows," Mr. Wade said a day after the pep rally, staring at a mannequin in a blue floral blouse and jeans. Just inside the door, the same outfit appeared, stacked on a table with complementary items -- the shirt in a ripe red version and the jeans in crimson and denim.


5. The idea is to get shoppers thinking: "I could buy it just the way it is in the window -- or make the look my own with the red blouse." The executives have been testing whether to put menswear or womenswear in the front of stores. A year-long study of which leads to higher revenue has been inconclusive, but their prototype store places menswear in the back. They have made mistakes, such as introducing khaki at the height of last year's trend. "We ordered too much. It didn't sell," says Mr. DeMattei. Mr. Wade says, "We made it too country, too sweet. Lucky is about being irreverent." The company is still short of some goals, including speed in replenishing inventory -- the lifeblood of any retailer. The goal is to review inventory each Monday and have new shipments in stores by Friday to meet the demand on weekends, when roughly 42% of Lucky Brand's sales take place. Empty shelves or missing sizes can make it hard to boost "the profitability of the four walls," Mr. DeMattei says. The goal in three years is to reach $600 in sales per square foot. When they arrived at Lucky Brand, that number was $380 per square foot. He declines to divulge the current number but notes, "We're on our way."

Summary : Over the past year Lucky Brand stores have been hosting many renovations. They have been in the process of changing their overall look of the stores, going from drab wood-paneled interiors and “ the jumbled look of a trendy shack” to create a more “clean” look and help define the Lucky lifestyle. Amongst renovations they have been tweaking displays to hopefully gain a higher revenue. I firmly agree with David DeMattei, chief executive of Lucky Brand, when he said “ They say retail’s in the details”. The company has spent a large amount of money to do research on what type of displays work the best and ultimately results in higher sales. In the world of retail it is a must to keep current and updated with the trends, and Lucky Brand is doing just that by adding different styles that have been seen on the runways in their new lines. Amongst other plans to increase retail revenue, which helps the fashion industry, is that Lucky Brand plans on opening 185 stores and outlets with the creation of new stores come more jobs within the retail field helping the economy as well.


Entry #3

6.

THE ANY WEATHER SWEATER BY: ESTHER ADAMS Getting appropriately dressed between seasons is not as easy as it used to be. A blast of snow on the East Coast in October, followed by splashes of sunlight in November, have rendered the length of time between summer and winter more blurred and erratic than ever. But one quick look at style on the street proves that irrational weather only makes for more creative dressers and that the ultimate multipurpose staple at this time of year is the often underestimated sweater. Case in point: Frida Gustavsson. The Swedish style maven took an evening approach to amping up her loose, peachy crewneck and jeans by accessorizing with a near-clashing crimson clutch, jagged art-deco necklace, and French-braided updo. Meanwhile Canadian beauty Alana Zimmer lifted a sharp, creamy shirt collar over her solid navy pullover and added extravagant flashes of gold. However, the real pull of this transitional basic is its innate versatility. If it warms up? Take it off. If it cools down? Add another layer . . . or two. After all, neither of the aforementioned models would lose the essence of their look should they decide to intensify the warmth factor with a textured cardigan, sleek turtleneck, or shaggy fur coat when the cold front really hits.

Summary : This article is mostly about how fall is a very unpredicatable season, weather wise. People do not always know what to wear and often underestimate the power of a sweater. Sweaters can be great staple items for the fall because it is warmer, you can take it off and if it gets chill you add a layer or two. I thought that this was a great article to remind people to wear their sweaters. It may seem like a simple item, and it is, but that’s the beauty of it. You can dress it up or down depending on you accessories and layers, and you can always add a collard shirt underneath for some extra flair. A sweater is always handy.


Entry #4

7.

What’s hot!

Your guide to wearing Native American inspired attire! Women’s

Men’s Native American inspired prints have been spotted all over this season! In Men’s you’re likely to see it on graphic printed hoodies and tops. Women’s can be seen on loose fitting cotton shirts as well as embroidered on shorts. As for Accessories they’ve been seen on handbags, backpacks and hair accessories!

Accessories


Entry #5

Overlapping Trends Stripes

Tangerine

8.


Floral

Cotton

Spike Detailing

9.


Entry #6

WGSN.COM’S Fashion Trend Report Support 1, Stripes- As always in spring nautical attire makes a come back and this spring is not an exception, it can be seen in red, white and navy striped tees!

2.Tangerine- Tangerine Tango is supposed to be the “it” color for Spring 2012

3.Cotton-Lighter fabrics are a must have for Spring

4.Floral- The bold print is coming back for this year’s season!

5.Spike Details- The spike detailing that was large in fall will die down a tad in Spring but it will still be present.

10.


Entry #7

11.

Current Color Trends

Tangerine

Mint

Fuchsia

Current Fabric Trends

Chiffon Fiber Content: 100% Polyester Country: France

Cotton Blend Fiber Content: 60% cotton/ 40% Polyester Country : Cambodia

Lace Fiber Content: 100% nylon Country: Malaysia


Entry #8

12.

Three Fashion Trends for Fall 2012 1. Fabric Blocking- The same idea as color blocking, but this time exploring different interactions between textures. This was seen at The Row’s Fall 2012 RTW show. Italy has recently been on board with mixing different fabrics.

2.Digital Prints- The idea that “science is becoming cool” has started to come into play, with graphic prints like Proenza Schouler’s printed skirts that had images from google earth.Digital prints have been huge in Tokyo.

3. Lilac-Seen on many runways the dusty shad of purple is bound to be a hit in the fall. This particular dress was during Paris fashion week from Christian Dior’s fall 2012 collection.


Entry #9

13.

Window #1 Topshop The Topshop shoe display makes me feel that I have left Chicago and stepped onto cloud 9. The backlight behind each pair gives almost the effect of a halo, and you expect a choir to strike up. At first it may seem a tad overwhelming but the fact that each pair has it’s own little box let’s you give each pair it’s own deserved time for appreciation.

Window #2 Anthropologie Anthropologie has always been a retailer to catch my eye when it comes to their window display. I love this particular display because it the background is whimsical yet it still let’s the clothes be the focus.The pops of color within the paper swirl of the background adds a nice contrast to the navy.


Entry #10

14.

New Trends From New Girl Since the first episode of the new show “New Girl” on Fox, I have been hearing many remarks on the style of Zooey Deschanel’s character, Jess. Yet it is not just Deschanel’s attire that is causing sparks it’s her hair cut. Her look is wholesome and goes back to the 50’s and sixties styles which is fresh from the overexposed looks that we have been seeing lately. Jess is quirky and has been labeled as “ adorkable” and many girls, much like myself can relate to her charming awkwardness and want to be able to emulate her. I currently am friends with three girls who have commented about wanting the blunt bangs of Deschanel and one who has gone through with cutting her hair. The bright colors seem to be right on trend for spring and the silhouettes uphold the retro feel that many indie college kids are wanting to go for.

!


Entry #11 Designer: Christian Dior

Season/Collection: Spring Couture 2012 Possible Retailers: Because this is Dior’s couture line, it would only be given to select clients for red carpet affairs. However, Christian Dior’s Ready to Wear collections can be located at retailers like; Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Ave, and Barney’s.

This particular design: I quickly fell for this ball gown because of the silhouette and the play on texture. The top almost has a 1950’s/ 60’s cut to it which was very simplistic and clean until you reach and explosion of tulle. When the model walked down the runway she seemed to glide in this outfit.

Other designs from this collection...

15.


Entry #12

16.

Responsibilities of A...... fashion designer: A fashion designer must be responsible for knowing their target customer as well as current trends in the fashion industry. They must be able to create innovative designs while making sure that they are still marketable. A designer must always stay evolving and on track with the rest of the fashion world. A designer works many long hours and must manage the final sample productions of their designs.

buyer: A buyer must be aware of current trends within the fashion industry as well as having a clear vision of who their target customer is. They must constantly crunch numbers because they are the ones responsible for ordering a certain number of a specific product, they must not have too many because they will lose money or too little because they could have made a larger profit.

product development manager: One must help to assist the progress of a vision of the company with excellent execution. The manager will have to be able to trouble shoot material, price and issues of delivery while being able to continue meeting the design’s needs as well as the business requirements. Product Development Managers must collaborate with the Brand Director to help configure strategies to make the vision a reality with upholding true to the company’s standards. They will have to have great communication skills and be up to date with many deadlines.


Entry #13 !!

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17.

Just Say No! Men’s

Don’t have orange be your skin tone! Even though tangerine is a hot color for spring, it shouldn’t be your skin color. Hate to break it to you George Hamilton, but the Oompa Loompa look was never in.

Don’t wear sweat socks with business shoes!

It’s just plain tacky, as well as unprofessional. Please do us all a favor and buy dress socks, your women will thank you.

Don’t, not wear bottoms!

Women’s

Don’t wear oversized everything!

Taylor Momsen, we get it, you’re not a little girl any more, but please put on some pants for the sake of those who are still The Olsen twins could possibly be the female Michael Phelps because they are constantly swimming, in their clothing. You’ve got cute figures, show them off!


18. Entry #14

Jobs that interest me..... Visual / Brand Experience Manager: This job is for someone who is excellent in customer service through visual presentation, merchandise placement and merchandise handling logistics. They must have the ability to provide customers with an optimal shopping experience. You must be able to work in teams and complete tasks as a leader and also have the ability to drive sales performance and related metrics on a daily, weekly and monthly basis. While working at this job some of your top responsibilities other than providing a clean, well merchandised store is to provide training to new employees, oversee and execute markdowns, perform stock transfers, handle shipment receiving and processing, and many other responsibilities. This job interests me and would be a good fit because I’ve always liked the idea of being a manager, and having the visual aspect combined with it would just be a dream. I enjoy customer service, but also managing tasks and overseeing other people so I feel it would really work with my personality as well.

Photo Stylist - Catalog: Some of the responsibilities of this job are to style assigned Men’s, Women’s and Home Products with a great deal of creativity, invention, imagination, and originality, use independent judgment to work with photographers and creative staff and hit the “styling target”, view layout and pre- pare the subject for photography using innovative techniques, assist in identifying peak needs and times for additional styling resources, maintaining and finding all supplies necessary for styling, and working directly with the studio manager and photography to develop photo schedule. I think this job would be great for me because I’ve always been into photography all throughout high school. I was even in the photography club, so I know about layouts of photos and what would look best when it is filmed so I think this would be a fun and exciting job for me.

Merchandising Assistant: The responsibilities of this job are to communicate via email to with factories overseas, initiate confirmation of customer samples, interact daily with sales staff, work with design on seasonal development and line review, assist the departments designer in sending out and assembly of all item tech packages, work closely with production and sourcing when necessary, assist department designer in creation and merchandising of seasonal presentation boards, work with sourcing manager on finding updated items for customer and track packaging development. I think this would be a good job for me because I’ve always had an interest in merchandising, and this would be a good place to at least start and get into the business without actually being a buyer.


THE END!

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