Dec 2014

DECEMBER 2014

Japan’s number one English language magazine

CELEBRATE IN STYLE Weekender’s Guides for Gifts and Winter Activities

HAKONE

Art, Onsens, and the Wonders of Nature

HEALTH CHECK

Japan’s High-Performance Health Care

ROUGH JUSTICE

Forced Confessions in the Japanese Legal System

ALSO: Cheeky Parade Does New York, the Deep Roots of One of Tokyo’s Oldest Beauty Salons, Agenda, Movies, andDECEMBER More... www.tokyoweekender.com 2014

W

hether it’s a lazy weekend or a busy day at the office, there are times when we find ourselves craving good food, yet hungry for online convenience.

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DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

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DECEMBER 2014

CONTENTS

18

HAKONE Majestic views, luxurious onsen ryokan, and art around every corner

6

8

12

HEALTH CARE

FALSE CONFESSIONS

FESTIVE FUN

How does the Japanese system stack up

The system that put an innocent man on

Say sayonara to 2015 in style: our guide to

against that of the US?

death row for nearly 50 years

keeping spirits bright in December

14 Gift Guide

32 Cheeky Parade

38 People, Parties, Places

At a loss for what to get for the people on your list? Look no further

The nonet rocks out with Jane’s Addiction, and they’re just getting started

Bill and Bob Geldof, an ex-sumo wrestler in drag, and a Brazilian bash

16 Ritzwell

33 Max Brenner

42 Movies

Smooth lines and organic material combine to make unforgettable furniture

Where chocolate isn’t just a hit for your sweet tooth, it’s a way of life

One last romp in Middle-earth, and an inflatable robot comes to the rescue

30 Hollywood Beauty Salon

36 An Evening of Good Taste

44 Agenda

The story behind one of the city’s most venerable beauty salons

Rubbing elbows and sipping the finest sake from Japan’s 47 prefectures

Walking on fire in Ibaraki, David Bowie through the years, and more

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

THIS MONTH IN THE WEEKENDER DECEMBER 2014

DECEMBER 2014 Japan’s number one English language magazine

CELEBRATE IN STYLE Weekender’s Guides for Gifts and Winter Activities

Publisher Chairman Executive Producer Editor Art Director Media Director Account Executives

BC Media Group Ray Pedersen Asi Rinestine Alec Jordan Liam Ramshaw Kotaro Toda Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Ohad Elbaz

HAKONE

Art, Onsens, and the Wonders of Nature

HEALTH CHECK

Japan’s High-Performance Health Care

ROUGH JUSTICE

Forced Confessions in the Japanese Legal System

ALSO: Cheeky Parade Does New York, the Deep Roots of One of Tokyo’s Oldest Beauty Salons, Agenda, Movies, andDECEMBER More... www.tokyoweekender.com 2014

Media Consultants Marketing Editorial Consultant Society Editorial Associates

Film IT Manager Finance & Admin DBA

Mary Rudow Sophia Bai Ingrid Dubreuil Sami Kawahara Bill Hersey Vivian Morelli Matthew Hernon Sarah Custen Christopher O’Keeffe Nick Adams Keiko Suzuki Iryna Sundutova

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970

lthough we’re moving into the merrier time of the year—just how merry might depend on your feelings about KFC and “kurisumasu kehki”— our December issue begins with more serious subjects. The first is the matter of forced confessions in Japan, a practice that led to a man, Iwao Hakamada, being held on death row for more than 46 years: longer than any other person to date. He was released this year, but how was it that he was even put behind bars in the first place? How are police able to get someone to confess to a crime that they didn’t commit?

Writer Matthew Hernon speaks with a pair of representatives from Amnesty International to answer these questions

A

and a few more.

Then we touch on a topic that may make you grateful to be living in Japan, particularly if you come from a country that’s only getting started with the idea of universal health care. We look into the workings of the health care system in Japan, particularly the way it manages to provide quality care at close to half of the price that people pay in the US. And with that, we move into a bit more cheer, and hit the rails for a weekend escape to nearby Hakone, whose charming blend of culture, scenery, and luxuriously appointed ryokan make it a perfect getaway to have on your list for the holidays. We drop in at a few of the area’s best-known spots, and introduce you to a couple that you might not have known before.

As those of you who’ve spent a few years here know, Tokyo puts its own spin on the winter season, and there’s plenty to take in over the next few weeks. We’ve got our share of recommendations for things you’ll want to try out—or pick up for friends and family—as the mercury keeps dropping. There are a couple more surprises to be found on these pages, but it’s never good to unwrap something before its time, so we’ll leave them to you to find!

A very happy holidays to you and yours, and we’ll see you in 2015.

Published monthly at the Regency Shinsaka Building, 5th floor 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 (03) 6666-4924 / (03) 6432-9229 (fax) editor@tokyoweekender.com

Editor

To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6666-4924 or email: customer-support@tokyoweekender.com For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6666-4924 or email: sales@tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher

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Published by BC Media Group www.bulbouscell.com

L E C H E M I N D U TA L E N T

GARANCE THIÉNOT Ambassadrice et propriétaire de la Maison

飲酒は20歳を過ぎてから、飲酒運転は法律で禁止されています。妊娠中や授乳期の飲酒は、月台児・乳児の発育に悪影を与えるおそれがあります。

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

by Jun Edo Orlanes

hat is good health care worth to you?

Depending on the country you live in, that answer may vary widely. In the US, the average citizen spends $8,895 in health costs every year.

In contrast, their counterparts in wealthy, developed countries such as France ($4,790 per year per person), or Japan ($4,752 per year per person) pay almost two times as little for health care.

“You get what you pay for” is a common refrain, particularly in the US, but in the case of health care, is this statement true? Are Americans really getting health care that is two times as effective and supportive as the Japanese or French? An observation of the systems in place in both countries shows that doctors being paid well, and they are using the same level of medical technology as France and Japan, and delivering high-quality health care.

Japan was the first nation in the Asia Pacific region to develop a comprehensive social insurance program, and France’s health system is set up in a similar manner.

In both countries, all citizens are required to have health insurance,

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DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

either through an employer-based health insurance program or through the national health care program. Those who can’t afford the premiums receive public assistance.

Insurers are all non-profit programs and do not compete. Patients have access to all health care institutions. Most doctors and almost all hospitals and clinic settings are in the private sector, and patients can freely choose their providers.

A comprehensive range of services are covered under health insurance packages, including inand out-patient care, home care, dental, prescriptions, long-term care, home nursing for the elderly and prosthetics. Cash benefits are given for childbirth. Though very minimal, costs that are not covered include routine physical exams, some dental services and over-the-counter drugs.

When the health care systems of the US, France, and Japan are compared, the cost of care has to be addressed. With Japan and France demonstrating quite clearly that it’s possible to have unconstrained cost-containment and deliver excellent health care, the natural response is to ask what the two countries are doing to keep the costs of health care down.

HEALTH CARE | FEATURE | 7 Estimated Hospital Stay Cost and Procedure Cost per Person per Year, USD, 2013 (or Nearest Year)

UPON ANALYSIS, THREE REASONS BECOME CLEAR: FEE SCHEDULES In the US, how much a health care service gets paid depends on the kind of insurance a patient has. This means that health care providers can choose patients with insurance policies that pay them more generously rather than patients covered by lower-paying insurers, such as government-sponsored Medicare co-payment programs under the Affordable Health Care Act. Japan and France, on the other hand, use a common fee schedule, meaning that health care services, doctors, clinics, and hospitals receive almost the same amount, regardless of the patients they see.

NIMBLE COST-CONTROL METHODS The health ministries of Japan and France are responsive and have more flexibility to make changes relatively quickly. In both nations, a governing body closely watches health care spending across all types of services. If a specific type of health service is trending faster than they forecasted, the governing body can lower the cost price for that specific service. The two countries also encourage lowering fees through other strategies.

For example, governing bodies track how frequently doctors are prescribing generic drugs; if they are not insurance fund representatives will visit the doctor’s offices to encourage them to prescribe cheaper generic drugs. In US, fee sched-

USA¹

Canada²

Netherlands²

France²

Japan²

Hospital Stay Cost/Day

18,000

7,707

4,744

4,717

2,000

MRI

2,929

755

461

280³

100

Appendectomy

29,499

5,004

4,995

4,558

3,600

Normal Delivery

18,329

2,800

2,824

2,894

2,180

C-Section

27,886

4,820

5,492

5,820

3,000

Cataract Surgery

8,233

1,000

1,815

3,352

2,365

Knee Replacement

51,128

9,910

12,589

12,424

3,213

Hip Replacement

53,644

11,600

11,513

6,101

4,126

Bypass Surgery

151,886

22,694

15,742

23,126

14,760

Angioplasty

14,378

9,277

5,295

7,027

2,280

Table data compiled from Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD), Health Statistics, 2014, and World Health Organization (WHO), World Health Statistics, 2014.

1. Data includes total cost of hospital, administrative, physician, and diagnostic procedure.

2. Data refer only to procedure cost: Canada; Netherlands; France, and Japan.

3. Data refers to 2012.

4. Data refers to 2011

the former.

As a result, rather than US hospitals necessarily delivering far more services than hospitals in other nations, the primary reason for higher overall hospital spending in the US is not necessarily that US hospitals deliver more services than hospitals in other nations but that these services simply cost more. Spending in the US is about 85% higher than the average in other, comparatively developed countries, including France and Japan.

Even paperwork comes at a higher price: about $900 per person per year is spent on administrative costs in the US, while Japan and France, which use a reimbursement system similar to the US, spend only

A baby born in Japan today would be expected to live to an average age of 86 or to the age of 82 in France; the same child would live to the average of 78 in the US. ules are not nearly as flexible, and it can be hard to rapidly adjust the cost of health care services, which are often statutory.

Furthermore, Medicare cannot change its fee schedules without approval from the US government.

PRIVATE HEALTH CARE COST DILEMMA One of the drawbacks of the US Affordable Care Act is that it limits methods for controlling the high costs of private insurance. In working with private doctors’ clinics, private health insurers continually face a choice between asking doctors to reduce their costs and passing on higher costs to patients in the form of higher premiums. Naturally, the majority of these private doctors find it hard to do

4

about one-third of that amount.

In light of recent health care reforms enacted in the US, including elements of the Affordable Health Care Act, it is still challenging to identify with precision why health care costs remain significantly higher. Two other factors stand out in this case: American doctors receive considerably higher salaries than they do in other countries, and the US health care system uses more up-to-date and expensive diagnostic procedures. Costs go unmonitored, and there are so many types of insurance coverage that no one governing body has the strong economic incentive to cut out wasteful practices.

In Japan and France it is not hard to find competent, affordable care for an average citizen with health care needs.

Many other first world countries are not as well served. Health statistics for both countries are indicators. Japan’s infant mortality rate is 2.0 per 1,000 live births and France’s is 4.0 per live births.

In addition, Japanese patients have excellent recovery rates from most major diseases. With a low cost universal health care system, about 65% of Japanese patients with chronic conditions can be expected to secure same-day access to a health care provider. The percentage in Japan is compared with about 26% in the US and about 42% in France.

Overall, when we compare the US health care system with that in Japan and France, there are two main factors working to Japan’s and France’s advantage: both countries have relatively healthy populations and an unconstrained universal health care system that serves all its citizens and offers a broad range of choices in hospitals, clinics, doctors, and care facilities. These factors combine to create a happy medium of freedom of choice, a wide safety net, a high quality of life, and a low health care cost per person per year of coverage. A baby born in Japan today would be expected to live to an average age of 86 or to the age of 82 in France; the same child would live to the average of 78 in the US. Jun Edo Orlanes, MPH, PhD, is principal director and founder of Lean Improvement Institute Consulting Group. His focus is sustaining and spreading lean business practices within the health care industry. He has worked with large health care organizations in the United States including: Kaiser Permanente, Veterans Administration, SutterHealth, University of California San Francisco, and Stanford University Medical.

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

The dark truth behind the Japanese judicial system’s nearly perfect conviction rate

by Matthew Hernon

International Japan. “Defence lawyers are given more access to their clients than before, but it still isn’t enough. There’s also a lack of transparency regarding the interrogation of suspects. We’ve been lobbying for the introduction of video cameras in interrogation rooms for a while and are hopeful that a bill will be passed next year that will at least lead to certain cases being recorded.

“Another issue is the

amount of time detainees are held in Daiyo Kangoku—substitute prisons. In countries like France and Britain suspects can only be remanded for 24 hours without charge (though an extension is possible in both: France for 24 hours, and in the UK for 72 hours, in the case of more serious offences), in Japan it’s 23 days. During

O

n the surface the criminal justice system in Japan

that period suspects are often questioned from morning

appears to be working very well. Crime rates are

until night by officers pressurizing them to admit their

low and have been continuously falling for the

guilt. Under such exhausting circumstances it’s no surprise

past eleven years. On top of that the conviction

there are so many false confessions.”

rate here reportedly exceeds 99%, compared with around

93% in the US and 83% in the UK, (according to various

Masaru Okunishi and Iwao Hakamada underline the

sources). So how is such an astonishing statistic possible

injustices of a system that seems to treat suspects as “guilty

in a country that doesn’t allow plea bargaining and where

until proven innocent.” The case of Okunishi, who was

wire-tapping and undercover investigation are restricted?

arrested for the fatal poisoning of five women in the 60s,

was originally thrown out because of a lack of evidence.

Well, for a start, prosecutors have to deal with low pros-

Yamaguchi believes the high-profile trials involving

ecutorial budgets; therefore, they’ll only take cases to court

The decision was then overturned and he was sentenced to

if they’re sure of winning. To get it that far it’s essential they

death because of a confession he said he was forced into.

get a confession, which is seen as the “king of evidence” in

Japan. According to critics, including numerous nongovern-

a world record 46 years on death row. The former boxer

mental organizations, this kind of system not only increases

had confessed to the murder of four people in 1966, before

the likelihood that offenders will walk if they don’t admit

retracting his statement, claiming he’d been coerced into

their crimes, but also makes miscarriages of justice more

saying he’d done it. He’s now set to become the sixth death

likely, due to forced confessions.

row inmate to be retried—the first four were all acquit-

ted—after it was revealed that DNA testing had under-

“The pretrial detention process remains clouded in

secrecy,” says Kaoru Yamaguchi, a campaigner for Amnesty

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

Hakamada was released earlier this year following

mined a crucial piece of evidence in the prosecutor’s case.

AMNESTY INTERNATIONAL | FEATURE | 9

“I could do nothing but crouch

down on the floor trying to keep from defecating,” Hakamada told his sister. “One of the interrogators put my thumb onto an ink pad, drew it to a written confession record and ordered me ‘write your name here!’ [while] shouting at me, kicking me and wrenching my arm.”

The National Police Agency of Ja-

pan insist that “efforts have been made to improve the treatment of detainees,” in recent times, pointing to the separation of custodial and investigative administration, a complaints system under prison regulations and a number of other measures that have been introduced. Critics, however, feel many of these steps are merely superficial

One of the interrogators put my thumb onto an ink pad, drew it to a written confession record and ordered me ‘write your name here!’ [while] shouting at me, kicking me and wrenching my arm.

Masaru Okunishi

F

ive years before the Hakamada case Masaru Okunishi was arrested in connection with the poisoning of 17 people at a local community center in Nabari, Mie Prefecture. He was accused of lacing bottles of wine with a deadly pesticide that killed five, including his wife and lover, while causing another dozen to fall ill.

The farmer confessed to the crime after five days of interrogation without legal representation, writing in his statement that he wanted to kill his wife and lover to put an end to the love triangle. During the trial though, he retracted his statement, saying he was coerced into it.

The Tsu District Court acquitted Okunishi in 1964 due to a lack of credible evidence and the fact that his confession was unreliable. The Nagoya High Court then overturned that decision, sentencing him to death in 1969. Okunishi has appealed the ruling ever since and in 2005 was granted a retrial after tests concluded that the pesticide in the wine wasn’t Nikkarin-T, the chemical Okunishi had confessed to using.

That decision, however, was overruled and earlier this year Okunishi had his eighth retrial request turned down by the Nagoya High Court. The 88-year-old, now hospitalized, continues the fight to clear his name.

and perfunctory.

“New prison laws came into effect

in 2007 allowing sentenced prisoners more exercise time and greater contact with the outside world, but in terms of Daiyo Kangoku, little has changed,” says Yamaguchi. “Human rights violations continue to take place, maybe not the kind of physical torture that Hakamada-san had to endure, but

Iwao Hakamada

O

n June 30, 1966,as the Beatles prepared for their first ever live show in Tokyo, Fujio Hashimoto, his wife and two children were found brutally murdered at their home in Shizuoka. The only suspect was a former featherweight boxing champion named Iwao Hakamada.

With traces of blood allegedly found on his pajamas, Hakamada was interrogated for more than 23 days without a lawyer present. Beaten and threatened he eventually confessed, but then changed his statement, claiming he was forced into it.

During the trial instead of presenting the pajamas, the prosecutors came up with five pieces of bloodstained clothing supposedly found at the miso factory where Hakamada worked. Despite a number of holes in the evidence, he was found guilty and sentenced to death.

In 2007 one of the judges, Norimichi Kumamoto, revealed he’d always believed Hakamada to be innocent, but his vote was overruled 2–1 by the other judges. “The evidence didn’t make sense. The guilty verdict was based solely on Hakamada’s confession,” he said. A year later DNA tests revealed Hakamada’s blood didn’t match the blood on the clothes. He was finally released this year after more than 46 year on death row; however, there remain serious concerns about his mental health.

psychological torture causing extreme mental suffering.”

Yamaguchi refers to a recent case

in the village of Shibushi in Kagoshima where politician, Shinichi Nakayama and 12 others were accused of buying votes in a local election. Detained for 395 days Nakayama was forced to stamp on the names of his relatives.

His wife, meanwhile, was ordered to

him in an email that he’d hacked into

shout her confession out of a window.

people’s computers to send chilling

Motive is seen as more important than

messages including threatening to kill

actual evidence in Japan; consequently,

children. He stated that his goal was to

officers will attempt all kinds of meth-

“expose the police’s and prosecutor’s

ods to get inside the suspect’s head and

abomination.” Four innocent people

obtain an admission of guilt. All the

were arrested for the threats, and two

defendants in the Shibushi case were

of them even confessed to a crime

eventually freed due to the suspicious

they didn’t commit. The majority of

nature of their confessions and a lack

respondents to Ochia’s tweet expressed

of credible evidence.

their anger at the police rather than

the perpetrator.

According to lawyer Yochi Ochia,

one of the reasons innocent people

have falsely confessed to crimes in the

reform isn’t encouraging. In general

Despite this the prospect of drastic

past is because of the Japanese psyche.

the Japanese public seem to have a lot

Speaking to the BBC World Service he

of faith in the judicial system and as a

said “People traditionally thought they

result there has been no huge clamor

shouldn’t stand up against authorities

for change. As long as crime rates are

so criminals confessed quite easily.”

low and conviction rates high, the po-

Even today there is perhaps some

lice are deemed to be doing a good job,

truth to that. In 2012 Ochia posted on

even if that means sending innocent

Twitter about a man who’d revealed to

people to prison.

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

Welcome to Japan Three ways of Living Eight lives in Tokyo

Come home to the ease of Oakwood living in Asia.

Oakwood offers three brands of serviced apartment solutions in seven locations in Asia’s most cosmopolitan city, Tokyo – Aoyama, Akasaka, Ariake, Azabujyuban, Tokyo Midtown, two in Roppongi, and Shirokane.

Happy Holidays from all of us at Oakwood For details and reservations, please visit our website at oakwoodasia.com BANGALORE BANGKOK BEIJING CHENGDU GUANGZHOU HANGZHOU HONG KONG INCHEON JAKARTA MANILA MUMBAI PUNE SEOUL SHANGHAI TOKYO

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

THE WEEKENDER GUIDE

FESTIVE FUN IN TOKYO

TEMPERATURES MAY BE FALLING, BUT THESE FIVE WINTER ACTIVITIES SHOULD KEEP YOUR SPIRITS BRIGHT AS 2014 COMES TO A CLOSE

ROPPONGI HILLS ILLUMINATIONS it the posh Roppongi Hills for a full evening of seasonal cheer. The spacious architectural wonder offers more than just magical illuminations. Until Christmas Day, you can hit the German Market to warm up with some mulled wine and a few sausages, and even pick up some crafty wooden toys. If you’re in for something a bit stronger, Whisky Hills is also going on until that same date, with participating restaurants and cafés around the area.

Not to be outdone by its neighbor, Tokyo Midtown also offers its own twist on Christmas, and once again this year the luxury complex is all about Santa Claus, complete with a 4-meter tall tree made of 1,800 piled up Santas. If that’s a bit overboard, head outside to view the gorgeous Champagne glass-shaped illuminated trees.

And for the Rolls Royce of illuminations, we have Tokyo Tower getting all glammed up this season, featuring a glitzy light show until Christmas Day. Tokyo Tower also features a massive Christmas tree (12 meters, nothing less) that blinks to the tune of Christmas carols twice per hour. Even if you’ve had enough illuminations this holiday season, Tokyo Tower is the ultimate Tokyo sight we’ll never tire of. And, did we mention it’s free?

H

Roppongi Hills, 6 Chome Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0032 www.roppongihills.com

A GRAND WEEKEND BRUNCH ne of the best ways to start off a luxurious, relaxing weekend is with a leisurely brunch. Starting in the month of December, The French Kitchen Restaurant, located on the second floor of the Grand Hyatt Tokyo, will be beginning a “Grand Weekend Brunch” service.

The relaxed, convivial setting of the restaurant makes it a perfect place for large groups of friends and family to gather, as well as an ideal location for couples to enjoy a romantic meal for two. The French Kitchen, whose cuisine is guided by Master Chef David Bellin, is known for its authentically prepared French dishes, including Pâté de Campagne, Sole Grenobloise, and Boeuf Bourguignon.

Both brunch packages feature the opportunity to sample a variety of the restaurant’s traditional specialties as well as some seasonal offerings.

The luxurious buffets (seatings are limited to a duration of two hours) are accompanied by two different beverage options. For the first plan (¥6,200), the meal comes with a glass of Champagne Louis Roederer, while the second option (¥8,800) pairs the plentiful buffet with a free-flow of Champagne Louis Roederer Brut Premier, a selection of cocktails, red and white wine, a port wine that complements the cheese buffet, and an array of The French Kitchen’s house spirits and soft drinks.

Hungry yet? The Grand Weekend Brunch begins on December 6, and will be held on weekends and national holidays from 11:30 am to 3:00 pm.

O

restaurants.tokyo.grand.hyatt.com/french-kitchen-tokyo/ The French Kitchen, Grand Hyatt Tokyo, Tokyo, Japan 106-0032 Minato-ku, Roppongi 6-10-3 2F 03-4333-8781

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

TOKYO WINTER WONDERLAND | FEATURE | 13 CHRISTMAS MARKET YOKOHAMA or the fifth consecutive year, the annual Christmas Market is back in Yokohama, and if you haven’t had a chance to check it out, it is well worth the short trek from central Tokyo.

Not only will the illuminated trees and decorations give you an eyeful (Christmas would not be Christmas without illuminations, right?), but the actual event is where the fun is. German-style huts are set up all over the cobblestoned plaza, all selling Christmas items, such as ornaments for Christmas trees and wooden dolls from the Erzgebirge region in Germany.

The real star of this event is the food, of course: you can sample typical German fare such as schnitzels, Stollen cakes (a fruit cake with marzipan), glühwein (that would be mulled wine) and sausages, of course. Admission to the event is free, and you can browse all the different stalls and hopefully find some treasures for the holidays and stock up on goodies for your loved ones.

F

www.yokohama-akarenga.jp

045-211-1515

Closest Station: Bashamichi Station: Minato Mirai Line/ Sakuragicho Station: JR Line

GET YOUR SKATES ON urn all those holiday calories and show off your ice skating skills on a few different rinks around the Greater Tokyo area. After its successful debut last winter, the spectacular Yokohama Art Rink is back until late February. Rookies and pros alike will enjoy gliding on the ice, which has been turned into a colorful canvas created by a local artist. It stays open throughout the evening, so could be a great (albeit slightly awkward if you’re not skilled on skates) date idea, with the bay and cityscape as a backdrop.

If you’re in the middle of Tokyo, there’s the White Sacas Tokyotown ice garden, which features regular performances by renowned figure skating athletes throughout the holidays. The rink is also open to the public, so make sure you check the calendar before you head down.

B

sacas.net/whitesacas/whitesacas08/index.html

03-3746-6666

5 Akasaka, Minato, Tokyo 107-0052. Closest Station Akasaka or Nogizaka (Chiyoda Line)

SOAK AWAY YOUR STRESS f you’re lucky enough to get a few days off and want to escape the crowds, you don’t need to go too far. Soak away your stress and worries in one of Tokyo’s natural onsen—yes, Tokyo has hot springs. Just grab two towels, pay the required fee, scrub down and bathe for as long as you want.

You’ll emerge refreshed, revitalized and ready to face the holiday frenzy (and Christmas carols on repeat in every shop).

Two places you’ll want to try are Utsukushi-no-yu in Suginami Ward, which features a rustic-looking rotenburo (open air bath), arranged with wood, stonework, and trees, and LaQua in Koraku, a hot mineral bath theme park where spring water is pumped up from 1,700 meters below ground. Featuring an outdoor bath, a massage bubble bath and saunas, it is dubbed a “space for healing.”

I

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

FUEL THE INNER MASTER CHEF: KAMATA HAKENSHA DAMASCUS STEEL KNIVES WITH FLOWER PATTERN With a good knife in hand in the kitchen, anyone can feel like the next Iron Chef by chopping those veggies with ease. Kamata Hakensha’s stainless, cobalt-alloy steel blade features an intricately etched cherry blossom or maple leaf pattern. Kamata Hakensha also offers custom engraving for that personalized touch.

Price: ¥26,800–29,800 | Where: kap-kam.com/index_english.html

GIVE THE OFFICE AN ALL-NATURAL FEEL: HACOA WOODEN KEYBOARD Switch up the touch screen, futuristic tech look of the 21st century with the natural feel of wood at your fingertips. The full-size keyboard comes in walnut or maple, and is created by a Japanese master artisan who handcrafts just one per day.

Price: ¥92,440 | Where: www.alexcious.com

SHADE THOSE EYES FROM THE NEW YEAR’S BRIGHT LIGHTS WESTWARD LEANING SUNGLASSES Kick off 2015 in style with the newest line of the San Francisco–based brand’s unisex shades. Westward Leaning’s Voyager sunglasses not only let you feel like one of the many celebrities that sport them, but the company also donates a portion of each sale to support education initiatives for Science, Technology, Engineering, and Mathematics.

Price: ¥26,000 (including international shipping) Where: www.westwardleaning.com

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

LEND A MOISTURIZED HAND: MAY’S GARDEN SPA—ROPPONGI HILLS HAND CREAM The best kind of gift to give is one that gives back, and Kesen Tsubaki hand cream does exactly that. Natural camellia oil from Rikuzentakata in Tohoku is used to create the all-natural hand cream full of Vitamin E and plant extracts. Sales of this product go to support communities hit by the 2011 earthquake and tsunami.

Price: ¥1,944 | Where: www.hollywoodsalon.co.jp/mgs/mgs_e/

TUNE OUT AND JAM: BOSE HEADPHONES QUIET COMFORT Give the gift of quiet comfort with headphones that cancel out the excess city noise, while allowing for an enjoyable music experience.

The soft cushioning around the ears makes that jam-packed commute just a little more comfortable.

Price: ¥32,400 | Where: Bose Japan Stores

CREATE THE PERFECT PICTURE, INSTANTLY: INSTAX SHARE SP-1 SMARTPHONE PRINTER Tired of taking that instant, Polaroid picture but never being sure what will come out? The instax printer connects to your smartphone and lets the closed-eye-prone choose which photos are print-worthy before printing. Parents who document everything or budget-conscious photographers who don’t want to waste film will find magic in this gift.

Price: ¥20,366 | Where: fujifilmmall.jp

STEP YOUR WAY INTO SHAPE AFTER THE HOLIDAYS: JAWBONE

POP OPEN THE OSCARWORTHY BUBBLY: CHAMPAGNE THIÉNOT BRUT

Encourage your loved ones to compete their way into a healthy lifestyle by gifting a wearable device that tracks your sleep and exercise activity. Friendly competition among friends and family can also help fuel more steps when they see each other’s total steps for the day.

Price: ¥14,800 | Where: www.yodobashi.com

As the official champagne featured in the Oscars, feel like the ultimate gift-giving star by presenting this refined bottle of bubbly to a loved one.

Champagne Thiénot combines the classic element of sparkling wine with a modern elegance in look and long finish in taste.

Price: ¥7,020 Where: All Takashimaya Stores More info: www.thienot.com

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

16 | INTERIOR DESIGN | RITZWELL

Organic Modernism Japanese craftsmanship meets European styling in the designs of furniture-maker Ritzwell apanese company Ritzwell first made its mark on the Japanese furniture design industry in 1992, thanks to the brand’s unique style. A piece of Ritzwell furniture is immediately recognizable for its signature “organic modernism,” a look that combines simple, balanced forms with the natural grace and beauty of high-quality wood and leather.

The seemingly effortless lines of these pieces are actually the result of a rigorous feedback cycle of evaluation and redesign that focuses on the aesthetics as well as the utility of every piece, stripping away any

extraneous elements and leaving only the fascination of Ritzwell furniture that grows more beautiful with time. Acclaimed by numerous architects and interior designers, the brand enjoys widespread use in homes and businesses around Japan and in Europe, the Middle East, and the US. But it is still the natural appeal of their furniture that inspires such loyalty from its customers. The more you use a piece of Ritzwell furniture, the more the shape of the backrest, the smoothness of the leather, even the wrinkles, remember your body and mold to it, changing over the years to grow ever closer to you.

1. EASY CHAIR “RIVAGE” The frame of this understated easy chair is made from finely oiled walnut, and finished with a fabric and leather back. The smooth, minimalist lines make for an item that will fit well with a variety of room decors, while the carefully stitched leather and fabric cushions make this a chair you’ll be in no hurry to get up from.

2. SOFA “LIGHT FIELD” Available in burgundy, vintage brown, or black leather covering, and upholstered with a variety of fabric or leather options, this low-set sofa offers luxurious comfort, exquisite craftsmanship, and truly unique lines. Several different configurations of this sofa are available to fit any room in your home.

3. TABLE COLLECTION Ritzwell offers a wide variety of tables in dozens of different heights, sizes, and materials—from glass to steel and wood. Whether you’re looking for a side table to accompany a sofa or an easy chair, or the centerpiece of your living room, you can be sure to find just the right piece.

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Ritzwell Address: 107-0062 Tokyo, Minato-ku, Minami-aoyama, 2-13-7 Web: www.ritzwell.com/en/ | Email: worldwide@ritzwell.com

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

Cutting Edge The collection of knives available at this Asakusa institution runs the gamut from heavy cleavers to the most delicate sashimi blades. If you’re looking to give the gift of quality Japanese craftsmanship this year, put Kamata Hakensha on your list Carbon Steel Wa-Santoku With edges sharp and delicate enough to shave tissue-thin slices from a piece of meat or fish, Kamata Hakensha’s carbon steel knives are a perfect example of Japanese form and craftsmanship. This particular wabocho, or Japanese knife, is called “santoku,” and its minimalist, unadorned appearance is highlighted by a blade that appears to flow out of the raw steel itself. (¥8,800)

Hammered Damascus Steel—Set of 2 or 3 Adding a bold, rugged look to the characteristic water-like pattern of Damascus steel, hammered Damascus steel knives have a unique appearance that is immediately recognizable. Available in a set of two or three, these knives come with a hard case for easy storage or transportation. (¥17,400 for a set of two [general purpose knife, and small knife], ¥27,800 for a set of three [general purpose knife, small knife, and meat/sashimi slicer] )

Carbon Steel—Set of 2 Simplicity meets elegance in this knife set. This pair of expertly crafted carbon steel blades provides you with the perfect kitchen combination: an all-purpose knife for meat and fish, and a small vegetable knife. Treated with proper care, these kitchen implements can last a lifetime. (¥23,300)

Damascus Steel with Flower Pattern These exquisite pieces represent a blending of two knife-making traditions. The stainless, cobalt-alloy Damascus steel blade, featuring an intricately rippled pattern, is easy to maintain and keep sharp, while the sakura (cherry blossom) or momiji (maple leaf) motif etched onto the side and the sakura or maple Japanese-style handle transform this practical meat and fish knife into a work of art. (¥26,800 [small], ¥29,800 [large])

Pop up shop in Hiroo Just in time for your holiday shopping, Kamata Hakensha is coming to the west side! The 91-year-old shop will be opening a popup location at the HIROO arobo lifestyle store. From the beginning of December until the end of the year, drop by and pick up the perfect gift for the cooking enthusiast in your life.

Hiroo AROBO (Open 11:00 - 20:00 Every Day) Tokyo Glass Tower 1F, 5-17-3 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, 150-0012 | Tel: 03-5422-8923 | Web: www.aroboshop.com/?mode=f14

Kamata Hakensha (Kenmax, Inc.) on Kappabashi Dougu Street kap-kam.com/index_english.html | Tel: +81 (0)3-3841-4205

Address: 2-12-6 Matsugaya, T aito-ku, Tokyo | Web:

HAKONE A C HE C KPO IN T IN H IS T O R Y This storied getaway reveals the charms that have made it a top destination for centuries

by Alec Jordan

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ess than two hours away from Tokyo’s

local rulers, their families were meant to live

hustle and bustle, Hakone has been

there throughout the year.

attracting visitors for more than a

thousand years. Some knew of Hakone

daimyo and their retainers to warm their bones

The town was not just meant for passing

for the impressive shrine that lies on the south-

and stop by for a pleasant meal, though: Hakone

eastern shore of Ashi-no-ko (Lake Ashi), but even

was also a security checkpoint. To be certain that

more people were drawn to the region’s plentiful

armed rebellion would not foment in the capital,

hot springs, powered by the geologic activity that

and that the daimyo would remain loyal (as

has sculpted the varied landscape of the region.

their families were, in effect, being “gently” kept

hostage), inspection stations such as the Hakone

During the Edo period, Hakone was a prima-

ry way station along the Tokaido Road, the most

Sekisho had been established by the shogun. The

well known of the “highways” that the daimyo

inspectors were charged with keeping a strict

(feudal rulers) of Japan’s historical provinces

lookout for “incoming guns and outgoing wom-

used to travel between Edo, as Tokyo was then

en;” however, as one source puts it, the officials

known, and other parts of the country. The

spent far less time looking for firearms than they

daimyo were required to come to the capital

did women (and their children).

once a year, and as a means of controlling these

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

With the gradual opening of the country

WHAT TO DO | HAKONE SPECIAL | 19 At the Hakone Sekisho the inspectors were charged with keeping a strict lookout for incoming guns and outgoing women.

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during the Meiji period, Hakone no longer needed to be a place where identities needed to be checked and passes stamped, but where people came to relax and enjoy the idyllic setting of the surrounding countryside. Remnants of this feudal his-

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tory remain around town: the Sekisho has been reconstructed for visitors to explore,

1 A look back to the past: An exhibition at the Hakone Sekisho museum 2 Check out writer-aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s most famous creation at The Little Prince Museum 3 Hakone black eggs are actually said

and the grueling Hakone Ekiden relay race, which has its origins in the routes that messengers would run between

to grant the eater an extra seven years of life.

Tokyo and Hakone. Visitors can also take a more leisurely walk along what still remains of the Tokaido Road, as it runs

and attractions to satisfy almost any

curious with a deeper look into Hakone’s na-

alongside Ashi-no-ko, flanked by towering

interest. The young, or young at heart,

tive art. (Ashigarashimo-gun, Hakone-machi,

cedar.

might be drawn to the museum that

84 Yumoto)

honors the writer-aviator Antoine de

makes it easy enough to visit in one day,

Saint-Exupéry’s most famous creation—

strenuous than strolls or museum-hopping,

but it is truly meant to be taken leisurely,

The Little Prince—while others might

Hakone also offers some excellent places

which means that you’ll want to stay for

be drawn to the Art Nouveau designs

for hiking as well. It is possible to hike your

at least one night, and there is no better

of the French glass artist René Lalique.

way into the Hakone area from trailheads

way to experience the area than with a

Finally, botany lovers shouldn’t miss the

off of the Odakyu Line, but a simpler excur-

stay at one of the exquisitely comfortable

Hakone Botanical Garden of Wetlands,

sion follows the course of Hakone Ropeway.

onsen ryokan that are found around town

or Hakone Shisseikaen.

After getting off the cable car at Sounzan

(you’ll be able to read about a few in the

Station, you can find the trail head about

pages that follow). Many of these tradi-

around Hakone, you are sure to come

50 meters from the station building. The

tional Japanese-style inns and their hot

across the region’s most recognizable

trail makes its way up a moderately steep

spring baths are so comfortable, in fact,

handicrafts. Yosegi zaiku is a wood-

climb through light tree cover and sasa

that you might find it difficult to get out

working technique that has its origins

(bamboo grass) to the peaks of Mount Kami

and do some exploring. But you should

in the wide variety of trees that grow in

and Komagatake, making for panoramic

make sure to hop out of the onsen and

the region, which includes cedar, mul-

views of the surrounding area. You can

change out of your yukata, so that you can

berry, and camphor. “Yosegi” means,

finish the hike at “Great Boiling Valley,” or

soak in a bit of culture along with that hot

roughly, to gather wood, and “zaiku”

Owakudani, an area that still steams and

spring water. In addition to the galler-

speaks to the detailed work that goes

bubbles with sulfuric gases. It’s a fascinat-

ies you can find in this Hakone feature,

into making this parquetry: craftsmen

ing area to explore in its own right, and you

there are a number of other museums

cut long strips of the different types of

will probably have worked up enough of

wood and glue them together into the

an appetite to eat a few “black eggs,” which

desired pattern. A wood plane is then

have been boiled in sulfuric waters—fear

used to shave off sheets of what looks

not, though: it’s only the shells that are

almost like wallpaper, and which can

black, and the eggs are actually said to

be combined to make elaborate and

grant the eater an extra seven years of life.

variegated patterns. These sheets are

then glued to any number of objects—

your stay, you should always keep an eye

one of the most popular souvenirs are

out for a glimpse of Japan’s most celebrated

“puzzle boxes,” but the possibilities are

peak. When the skies are clear during the

limitless, as are the patterns that truly

colder months, Mt. Fuji can be seen from

skilled yosegi zaiku artists can create.

several vantage points—according to some,

While it is a bit of a walk from the Iri-

it is one of the best ways to see the moun-

uda Station on the Hakone Tozan Line,

tain, and adds one more reason that people

a yosegi zaiku museum can provide the

continue to flock to Hakone year after year.

Hakone’s close proximity to Tokyo

As you peruse the many gift shops

If you fancy something a little more

Finally, however you get around during

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

20 | HAKONE SPECIAL | WHAT TO DO

A NEW POINT OF VIEW The most recent museum to open in Hakone, the Okada Museum of Art houses a broad range of Asian art history in a Japanese garden setting

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he Okada Museum of Art is a new addition to the myriad arts and entertainment offerings of this popular getaway area. However, this newcomer, which opened in Fall 2013, is already distinguishing itself from the pack.

A visit to the Okada Museum of Art is more than just a day trip; it’s an authentic, full experience, a journey to the heart of Japanese culture.

The unique experience begins long before you arrive in the welcoming courtyard, as the journey there is half the joy. Making your way from the frenzied pace of Shinjuku Station, you can feel the urban energy begin to fade away as you take the Odakyu line to Hakone-Yumoto Station, and make your leisurely course, via switchback train to Kowakudani and the quiet of the region’s hills and forests. “Tokyo is the big city, but it only takes about two hours to come to Hakone to refresh and relax,” said Aika Chikamori, Assistant Curator. “Hakone is a very good location for city people.”

This private museum has made public an abundance of Japanese and Eastern cultural treasures from the personal collection of Kazuo Okada, which includes early-modern Japanese paintings, East Asian ceramics and Buddhist sacred statues dating back to the 11th century. Okada’s lifetime of passionate and discerning collecting has led to an impressive cross-section of Japanese art history that focuses exclusively on works created in Japan or passed down within Japan through the years, housed in a streamlined modern building that nevertheless fits perfectly into its natural surroundings. “I fully believe that the collections will be able to fully satisfy the diverse interests of our many visitors,” said Kobayashi Tadashi, the museum’s director.

One luxury of the site, and easily the museum’s brightest highlight, is the singu-

Fukui Kotaro, Wind/Time, 2013

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

Above: Kitagawa Utamaro, Fukagawa in the Snow, Edo period. Below: Woman with Jar on Her Head and Women with Cups, 5th–6th c.

lar experience of contemporary, Japanese painter Kotaro Fukui’s magnificent mural, Wind/Time. In a resounding echo of Tawaraya Sotatsu’s Wind God and Thunder God Screens (found in the Kennin-ji Temple, Kyoto), Fukui’s mural measures 12 meters high and 30 meters wide and is best viewed from the on-site foot bath, where you can soak your feet in natural hot springs while enjoying a beverage from the café.

Further complementing the natural surroundings are the museum’s 15,000 square meters of gardens interwoven with streams and plant life, as well as a traditional Japanese restaurant overlooking a tranquil koi pond. Complementary boots and umbrellas are readily available, in case of

rain, which somehow seems to enhance the garden’s beauty.

Okada Museum of Art is a wonderful experience for those new to Japanese art—for whom it can serve as a primer or an overview—as well as those who feel they’ve seen it all. The expansive collection maintains its foundation of classic works and traditional ceramics, while also introducing newer and different works through temporary exhibitions.

The current modern Japanese art exhibition lasts until the end of March 2015 and features gorgeous and innovative works by painters who led the modernization of Japanese painting from the Meiji to Showa periods (1868– 1989). Then, on April 3, 2015, Okada Museum will unveil Kitagawa Utamaro’s Fukugawa in the Snow, which had been missing for more than 60 years, and is being exhibited for only the second time since its rediscovery.

With interactive digital displays available in four languages (English, Japanese, Chinese and Korean), as well as a “Children’s Japanese” option for young visitors, the Okada Museum of Art is welcoming to patrons of all ages, perfect for a first date, a family field trip, or just a quick getaway from the city life. It’s an opportunity to deepen your knowledge of the true Japan, through art and nature.

Okada Museum of Art Address: 250-0406 Kanagawa-ken, Ashigarashimo-gun, Hakone-machi, Kowakudani 493-1 Tel: 0460-87-3931 www.okada-museum.com/en/ Opening Hours: daily, 9:00–17:00

WHAT TO DO | HAKONE SPECIAL | 21

A NATURAL MASTERPIECE The Narukawa Museum offers a spectacular collection of modern and contemporary nihonga in a spectacular setting

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estled in the low hills beside Hakone’s Lake Ashi, the Narukawa Museum is surrounded by a landscape as stunning as the works that are housed inside. Within the walls of this lakeside museum is a treasure trove of modern nihonga—a traditional form of Japanese-style painting. The museum was opened in 1988 by founder Minoru Narukawa, as a home for his personal collection of these works, which use ingredients and techniques that have been refined for centuries, but whose subject matter belies a distinctly modern sensibility.

During our visit to the museum, Mr. Narukawa explained some of the qualities that drew him

to begin collecting pieces of this traditional, yet quite modern, art form.

One of the unique characteristics of nihonga is the ingredients used to create the works themselves. The pigments that are used to create the images are made entirely from natural materials—minerals, shells, and even gold or silver—which are ground into a fine powder, and mixed with water in order to be used for painting. The paintings are then created on washi (Japanese paper) or silk. The ingredients used for these paintings are both rare and expensive, making each nihonga a valuable item, even before the artist’s skill is imbued in the picture.

Before the modern era, Narukawa explains, the focus of a nihonga painter was on the quality of the line in painting, or the ability to accurately and aesthetically render a subject—landscape, for example. “But now, with modern pieces of nihonga, it isn’t just about depicting a landscape: it’s important for the artist to show his impression, and display his personal reaction to that landscape.”

Similarly, modern works of nihonga that display human figures are focused on showing their subjects’ true human nature.

In one case, a series of pieces that depict geisha and maiko (apprentice geisha), still in their white makeup, but partially nude and in relaxed poses, shows another, far less staged, representation of these traditional icons of Japanese beauty.

Some of the museum’s most well known pieces are an expansive collection of works by the celebrated nihonga painter, Kyujin Yamamoto, a recipient of the Japan’s Order of Cultural Merit. However, Narukawa explains that what draws him to the pieces in his collection are never the names, but the feeling that emanates from them: “I feel that the most moving works of art don’t necessarily need to be created by famous artists. For me, when I see a work and I know that the artist put his or her heart and soul into that piece, that is what truly moves me.”

This dedication to nihonga in all its variety has made for an eclectic collection of these meticulously crafted pieces, gathered over decades. Narukawa explained that he “thought it would be most suitable to house these paintings not in something like a concrete cave, but surrounded by nature and providing and taking inspiration from the surroundings. This was the reason that I chose Hakone.”

And it would have been hard to choose a better location. In addition to the art that hangs on the museum walls, one of the most inspiring images that the Narukawa Museum has on offer can be seen from the 50-meter-wide Panorama Lounge. On clear days, visitors can look out past Lake Ashi, past the hills and mountains of Hakone, and on the snowcapped peak of Mt. Fuji, framed in a unique manner that reveals and displays Japan’s most celebrated mountain at the same time.

In explaining the appeal of the museum’s most prized “picture,” Narukawa uses a phrase that comes from the world of Japanese gardening—shakkei. Literally, it means “borrowed landscape,” and it refers to the way that natural scenery is used as the background for a garden: “I haven’t seen a museum that uses the landscape the same way that we use ours, and I simply believe that any visitor who comes to Hakone—or Japan for that matter—needs to see it.”

Narukawa Art Museum Address: 250-0522 Kanagawa-ken Hakone, Ashigarashimo, Moto Hakone 570 Tel: 0460-83-6828 www.narukawamuseum.co.jp/en/ Opening Hours: daily, 9:00–17:00

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

THE POLA MUSEUM: An Environment for Art

Water Lily Pond by Claude Monet

In harmony with the natural space around it, this Hakone art oasis combines cutting-edge design with masterworks from around the world

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s you stand inside the sleek, ultramodern architecture of the Pola Museum, you feel like you were right in the heart of the city. But in fact, this building’s contemporary design is nestled within the belly of a forested hillside, and offers a unique mix of fine art and natural beauty, all in a light, airy space.

The building itself, opened in 2002, is a technical and architectural gem. Designed by the renowned Koichi Yasuda, the Pola Museum features clean, pure lines that provide a contrast with the natural forms of the rural surroundings. Although much of the space is actually underground, it’s difficult to tell: a combination of natural light and advanced fiber optics creates a luminous atmosphere that puts the varied collection of the museum in a perfect light. The building was designed with the concept of being “a symbiosis between Hakone’s natural beauty and the works of art,” and true to this concept, the

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

museum grounds offer a walking course that is open during the warmer months.

As you make your way around the airy spaces of the Pola Museum’s galleries, you can look on masterpieces of modern and contemporary artists from Europe and Asia— the collection includes nearly 10,000 pieces and ranges from Ming Dynasty vases to surrealist canvases by Salvador Dalí. Highlights of the museum include works

by Impressionists Monet and Renoir; paintings, sculptures, and other objects that mark stages in the career of the mercurial creator, Pablo Picasso; and examples of the oeuvre of two artists who may not be as familiar to western audiences: Léonard Foujita and Sugiyama Yasushi. Foujita, who spent much of his life in France and was active during the first part of the 20th century, has a fascinating body of work that moves from Cubist-inspired work to more figurative work. Sugiyama’s pieces, on the other hand, have an almost monumental quality, whether they depict closely observed animals or figures from far-flung lands. The Pola Museum maintains a considerable collection that includes 43 pieces of this intriguing artist’s work.

In addition to the museum’s permanent collection, there are a series of temporary exhibitions that highlight specific artists or themes in modern art. Two being shown over the next few months are Artists’ Books by 20th Century Masters—Chagall, Matisse, Miró, Dalí, an exploration of these visual arts masters’ exploration of the medium of the printed book, putting their distinct visual styles to work in storytelling and illustration.

In addition, keeping with the Pola Company’s origins in the industry of cosmetics, there will be an illuminating exhibit that looks back at lacquerware cosmetic acces-

sories from the Edo Period. These exquisite pieces range from dressing tables to delicately crafted combs and makeup brushes. Both exhibits will run until the end of March 2015.

To take a breather as you make your way around the museum, there are two restaurants that offer two different dining experiences. For a more filling meal, you can go with the restaurant “Array,” which features authentic European fare and massive picture windows that look out on Hakone’s mountainous landscape. For lighter appetites, drop in on the Tune Café and soak in the forested surroundings that offers different views throughout the year.

While Hakone is known as a popular tourist destination, a visit to the Pola Museum of Art provides visitors with an experience that combines natural scenery with modern design, and refined art with the rolling hills and valleys of the region.

Pola Museum of Art Address: 250-0631 Kanagawa-ken Ashigarashimo-gun, Hakone-machi Sengokuhara, Kozukayama 1285 Tel: 0460-84-2111 www.polamuseum.or.jp/english/ Opening Hours: daily, 9:00–17:00 (no admission after 16:30) Léonard Foujita, Dragon of Seas, (Jean Cocteau), 1955, Burin on paper (Second half of the exhibition ) © Fondation Foujita / ADAGP, Paris & JASPAR, Tokyo, 2014 D0701

s a visit to the Hakone Open-Air Museum can show you, art isn’t something that needs to be kept inside. The spacious 70,000 square meter park was opened in 1969, with the intention of creating a space where guests of all ages could explore and experience art in a unique setting throughout the entire year.

The expansive sculpture garden offers surprises around every corner, with pieces that portray both profound philosophical truths and whimsical flights of fancy, executed in a great variety of styles. And always in the background, while you make your way through the many small paths that cross the museum’s outdoor garden, you will find yourself surrounded by Hakone’s hills and mountains, serving as a natural counterpoint to art sculpted by human hands.

Children will be drawn to the museum’s more playful works of art, as well as the pieces that can be found in the children’s area, including a series of Play Sculptures, which invite young visitors to discover just how much fun art can be. The Hakone Open-Air Museum also contains several traditional gallery buildings, which house temporary exhibits and installations that featuring the work of contemporary Japanese artists. There is also the renowned Picasso Collection, which displays a changing set of exhibitions that offer various perspectives into the famed creator’s creative imagination, illustrated by a diverse collection of the artist’s media.

The Hakone Open-Air Museum is a short walk from the Chokoku-no-mori Station on the Hakone Tozan Railway, making it a destination that can be easily reached from Tokyo for a day trip, or part of a longer stay in the area.

Museum Hours: 9:00–17:00, 365 days a year. Last admission is 30 minutes before closing.

Admission: ¥1,600 (adults), ¥1,200 (university & high school students), ¥800 (middle & elementary school students)

The Hakone Open-Air Museum Address: 250-0493 Kanagawa-ken, Ashigarashimo-gun Hakone-machi, Ninotaira 1121 Web: www.hakone-oam.or.jp | Tel: 0460-82-1161

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

HAKONE-SUISHOEN

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ocated in a former aristocratic villa, the Hakone-Suishoen Ryokan offers a rare experience of truly personalized luxury. From the attentive service that you will receive as soon as you enter the inn and expertly prepared meals, to relaxing spa treatments and a variety of hot spring baths and saunas, every element of your stay has been tailored to make your stay as pleasant as possible.

Each of Hakone Suishoen’s 23 rooms offers an entirely different experience. Whether you stay in the opulent and secluded splendor of the Negau Luxury Suite or in any other of the hotel’s finely appointed rooms, each room features a unique design and layout. What the rooms have in common are the private outdoor onsens, and an array of fully modern amenities, such as high-speed internet access and high-definition TVs. If you’re looking for a little more pampering, drop in at the Suishoen Spa for a full range of

relaxing massage and beauty treatments, which will rejuvenate you, mind, body, and spirit.

Throughout the day you can partake of a tasteful array of seasonal delicacies. After a relaxing soak in one of Suishoen’s hot spring baths, you can begin your day with either a traditional Japanese breakfast set made from the bounties of the local land and sea, or a hearty Western-style breakfast that consists of seasonal fruit, yogurt, freshly baked bread, and the hotel’s signature soy milk omelets.

Following a light lunch, a spectacular combination of tastefully chosen ingredients awaits you, in the form of a traditional Japanese gourmet kaiseki meal or teppanyaki meal, featuring the succulent flavors of grilled meat, vegetables, and seafood. And for a refreshing drink during the afternoon or a nightcap, the bar “Ito” offers elegance and a full range of wines, cocktails, and Japanese sake.

Hakone-Suishoen Address: Kanagawa-ken, Ashigarashimo-gun, Hakone-machi, Kowakidani 519-9 Web: www.hakonesuishoen.jp/eng | Tel: 0460-86-0852

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

WHERE TO STAY | HAKONE SPECIAL | 25

RYOKAN ENGLIGHTENMENT— HAKONE YUYADO ZEN Mt. Fuji views and private onsens top the highlights at this charming Japanese-style inn

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deluxe hotel in a serene environment surrounded by luscious greenery and spectacular views of Mt. Fuji, Hakone Yuyado Zen feels like it is a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of city life, yet is located close enough to the center of Hakone, meaning the area’s top tourist sites are not too far away. In addition to the gorgeous scenery, the hotel also boasts spa facilities, a semiopen air bath in each room and a fine dining experience that includes some of the finest Japanese beef: Fujiyama wagyu.

Waking Up to Mt. Fuji An early morning soak in a semi-open air bath with Mt. Fuji looming out on the horizon: It’s a truly majestic way to start the day. At Hakone Yuyado Zen there are four rooms with a view of Mt. Fuji (on a clear day anyway), two of them Japanese style, two Western style. Unsurprisingly these are the most popular rooms in the hotel. If they are booked up though you needn’t fret: there are five other rooms, all of which boast a calming view of the surrounding forest.

Every room in the hotel is designed to make guests feel as relaxed as possible. They are spacious, stylish and extremely comfortable. Inside them you have an illy espresso machine, a digital TV, a refrigerator full of drinks, free Wi-Fi, a wireless LAN connection and various other amenities that help to make your stay that much more pleasant.

Unquestionably the standout feature of each room though, is the semi-open air bath.

Soothing and therapeutic, the natural sulphuric water from Owakudani (Great Boiling Valley) is said to be good for cuts, skin disease, fatigue, burns, stiffness and various other ailments. If your room tub isn’t quite big enough for the whole family, there is a more spacious bath on the first floor that can be reserved for private use.

Delectable Dishes with Local Flavor

As well as the private baths, there are also private dining rooms, meaning that guests can enjoy their meals in a secluded, quiet space without having to worry about noise coming from other tables or how much noise they make themselves.

Dinner is kaiseki style so you will want to leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy it properly. There are more than ten dishes in total, the majority of which are carefully created using seasonal

vegetables and fresh fish caught directly from the bays of Suruga and Sagami. The highlight of the meal though, is undoubtedly the sumptuous Fujiyama wagyu: this Japanese beef can be prepared several ways, including shabu shabu style or as a sirloin steak, and is truly exquisite.

After all that, hopefully you will still have room in your stomach for more culinary delights the next morning. Breakfast is a traditional Japanese affair with carefully selected wild vegetables, seafood, rice and miso soup. A colorful array of dishes, it comes in a small, flower basket–like bowl. Breakfast is also served in a private dining room, looking out onto the green district of Sengokuhara.

Other facilities at the hotel include a terrace lounge where you can relax with a drink while looking out at Mt. Fuji, and a café/bar with a variety of whiskies and brandies.

Hakone Yuyado Zen Address: 250-0631 Kanagawa-ken, Ashigarashimogun, Hakonemachi, Sengokuhara 1245–96 Tel: 0460-84-2400 www.hakone-zen.com

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

The Art of Onsen Prepare yourself for the heights of indulgence at luxury ryokan Ginyu Hakone Soaking away your worries and cares in your rotemburo as you gaze out at the mountains and rivers that stretch out in front of you will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of your stay.

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

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estled on the mountainous slopes near Miyanoshita Station, Hakone Ginyu offers an unforgettable ryokan experience. It may take you less than two hours to reach this unique getaway, but between its unparalleled views, the attentive service that is there to assist you with every need you might have, and the comfort of the tastefully designed rooms, the life you left behind in the city might seem thousands of miles away. And you might find yourself in no great hurry to head back.

Rooms Inspired by its natural surroundings, Ginyu’s varied room styles take their names from the elements: Kaze (Wind), Hoshi (Star), Sora (Sky), and Tsuki (Moon). Starting from the fifth floor, where reception and the main lounge area are located, you can go down one floor to the Kaze rooms, which provide remarkable views down into the Haya River valley. The Hoshi rooms, on the third floor, are decorated with an exotic, Balinesestyle theme, while the bright, airy feeling of the Sora rooms is complemented with traditional Japanese décor. Finally, the first-floor Tsuki

rooms face directly onto the ryokan’s traditional Japanese garden.

Along with the refined aesthetics of the ryokan’s varied rooms come the most modern of amenities: a wide-screen TV, DVD player, music system and mini bar. There are comfortable lounge/dining areas in each room for breakfast and dinner, spacious beds, pull-out futons, and a large shower with a sliding door that leads out to the balcony.

Baths And on that balcony is one of the things that makes a stay at Hakone Ginyu such a remarkable experience. Each room features a personal rotemburo—outdoor hot spring bath—which differs in size depending on what floor you stay on. Even with this unique touch, Ginyu has taken into account even the smallest details: if you find the water is too hot, simply press a small button on the side of the bath to add cool water. Soaking away your worries and cares in your rotemburo as you gaze out at the mountains and rivers that stretch out in front of you will undoubtedly be one of the highlights of your stay.

If you’d like more space to stretch out in the

WHERE TO STAY | HAKONE SPECIAL | 27

baths, Ginyu offers three different public onsen.

Like the various types of rooms at the ryokan, each of the three baths offers its own unique ambience, making sure that you’ll want to visit each one at least once, both to enjoy the soothing effects of the mineral-rich hot spring water, as well as the enchanting views you can see while bathing. Two of the sumptuous onsen have their own saunas attached, while a third features an eye-catching infinity pool.

Spa Just in case the private and public baths weren’t relaxing enough, you can drop in on the Ginyu Spa, which offers guests soothing massages, facial treatments and reflexology. Prices vary depending on the treatment you choose, but for a completely relaxing experience, we recommend the 120-minute body massage, two hours of pure bliss in the hands of a skilled therapist using original techniques. You can follow up your treatment with a soak in one of the ryokan’s private stone baths.

Drinks and Dining As you’ll find, time in the onsen and a relaxing spa treatment can leave you quite thirsty, so our best advice is to refresh and revive at one of the ryokan’s two artfully appointed bars, or put your

feet up in the exquisite lounge as you gaze at the exotic fish swimming in one of the oversize tanks.

All of this is a prelude to the unforgettable meals at Ginyu. Guests can enjoy an incredible kaiseki or shabu-shabu meal from the comfort of their own room. Using seasonal ingredients that provide a healthy complement to the healing influence of the baths, the chef prepares a series of fish, meat and vegetable dishes that look almost too beautiful to eat. However, each dish tastes as good as it looks, and follows one after the other at a leisurely pace, timed perfectly for maximum enjoyment.

For breakfast, guests have a choice between Western and Japanese style. Western style includes yogurt, fruits, French bread, croissants and cereal. But if you opt for Japanese style, miso soup, rice and fresh fish can be enjoyed.

For an experience that epitomizes luxury, refinement, and unforgettable beauty, look no further than Hakone Ginyu. Whether visiting with family, or for a romantic getaway—it’s no surprise that the ryokan has been the site of many a marriage proposal—your memories of this oasis in the mountains will stay with you long after your stay has ended.

Special Event In April 2015, Hakone Ginyu will be offering a unique night of Japanese culture, jazz, and sake.

After guests check in during the afternoon, the festivities will kick off after dinner. Beginning with a traditional Japanese dance performance by six local geisha, the evening will change tempo, as the geisha move over to their instruments and deliver a jazz performance. Throughout the night, there will be a full complement of sake to taste.

Truly an event to remember, spaces will sell out fast, so contact the hotel for more details.

For more information about Hakone Ginyu please visit the website: Address: 100- 1 Miyanoshita, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa Prefecture 250-0404 Web: www.hakoneginyu.co.jp | Tel: 0460-82-3355

Onsen Enjoyment: A step by Step guide

Most of us know the general rules of the onsen, but there are a few subtle steps that will help you enjoy your onsen experience even more, while also amplifying its healthful effects.

Kakeyu: Because your body needs time to adjust to the high temperatures of the hot spring water, you should ease into the bath slowly. Starting with water at knee level, then sink in up to your waist, and finally up to your shoulders.

Just enough to make you sweat: The perfect amount of time to stay in the onsen is until you’ve worked up enough sweat to dampen your forehead. Don’t be reluctant to take a break.

Soak in the minerals: Your body can absorb a variety of minerals from the onsen water, and showering right after a bath prevents you from receiving the full benefit of a healthy soak in natural spring water.

Just towel off minimally, and let those good ingredients do their work.

Rest, relax, and rehydrate: Time in the onsen takes more out of you than you’d think. You should take it easy for at least 30 minutes after your time in the onsen, and make sure to drink something.

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

Getting Around Is Half the Fun

W

hen you think of traveling in Japan, the first things that come to mind are the blazing speed of a bullet train or a crowded commuter car. But a trip around Hakone is an escape from the everyday, and you can feel the difference on the very first leg of your journey.

Boarding the Hakone Tozan Line train at Hakone Yumoto, you leisurely make your way into the forested hills and mountains. As your train wends its way up the scenic course, it stops on occasion to reverse direction—the Tozan Line is one of the few switchback trains in all of Japan—passing through tunnels and emerging onto views so stunning that even repeat visitors can’t help but marvel at them.

Throughout the year, whether the area is alive with the hues of autumn or spring, or shrouded in fog, the surrounding landscape is breathtaking.

The Hakone Tozan Line is one of the most notable and enduring symbols of the Hakone experience, but it has now been given an upgrade with a new railcar: the Allegra 3000

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

series. Unveiled last month, the new car is environmentally friendly, offers a smoother ride, and provides passengers with an even better view of Hakone’s memorable scenery, thanks to its huge picture windows.

Of course, the switchback train is only part of what makes getting around Hakone such an unforgettable experience. Once you reach Gora Station, your journeys continue with a cable car, a ropeway gondola, and finally a sightseeing cruise that crosses the picturesque Lake Ashi, making a trip around Hakone an experience of relaxed variety. The areas around all of Hakone’s waystations offer a variety of museums, luxurious ryokan, restaurants, and hiking trails, all which can be explored at an easygoing pace, whether you’re passing through just for the day or for a long weekend.

One particular spot that shouldn’t be missed is the Hakone Yuryo, a lovely inn that opened last year. Even if you’re not staying at the ryokan, you can stop in for a soak in the large public onsen or reserve one of 19 private onsen, many of which offer stunning views of the surrounding forests.

EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 29

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www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

HOLLYWOOD BEAUTY SALON A Beauty Legacy with Deep Roots

A

Dropping in at their flagship salon for an expert treatment, you’ll feel right at home, no matter how far away from home you might be

ll beauty salons are in the busi-

of NGOs, working for a decade with muse-

ness of making their clients look

ums, national organizations, and the UN

better, but it’s a rare establish-

before taking up his position as president

ment that looks to improve the

of Hollywood Beauty. Since taking up the

communities around them. That is, however,

reins in 2004, the company has broadened

just what Hollywood Beauty Company found-

its social reach to include initiatives that

er Kiyoto Ushiyama had in mind with the

support the communities of Tohoku (check

business that he founded in 1925. Returning

our holiday gift guide for one example of

to Japan after working for seven years in

these products).

Hollywood, Ushiyama recognized that West-

ern-style beauty and hair treatments could

the borders of the country as well, while

be a hit.

going back to the company’s earliest roots:

“Our company has been contacted by the

But as Dai Ushiyama, third-generation

This outreach has stretched beyond

president of Hollywood Beauty Company,

Ministry of Foreign Affairs and ASEAN, to

explained, his grandfather wasn’t just looking

support and advise developing economies

to launch a successful business, he wanted

in countries like Myanmar or Indonesia.

also to address the needs of a growing class

Giving women the chance to become beauti-

of women who were beginning to become

cians is a great skill, and the equipment that

more independent during the early part of

Hollywood Beauty Salon’s May Ushiyama with Grace Kelly

the 20th century. “My grandfather was look-

caras and hair tonic to masks and facial

pair of scissors and brushes, you can set up

ing to help create new jobs for women who

packs. Hollywood Beauty still prides itself

shop almost anywhere.”

didn’t necessarily have a high level of formal

on its extensive product line, made almost

education, and he wanted to found a school

entirely in Japan from locally sourced

sive and wide-reaching perspective, but

for these women as well. That’s always been a

ingredients.

dropping in at their flagship salon—May’s

big focus for the company, and it remains so

The company has developed a steady—

Garden Spa, in the Hollywood Beauty Pla-

to this day: the Hollywood Beauty School now

and very loyal—clientele over the decades,

za—you’ll feel right at home, regardless of

has an enrollment of about 1300 students.”

including many members of high society

the treatment that you’ve come in for. The

as well as quite a fair share of stars visiting

salon offers a complete range of treatments

Ushiyama established a cosmetics manu-

from Hollywood, USA. But as Ushiyama

and beauty spa packages, utilizing a broad

facturing business at the same time. Here

explains, “We welcome a huge range of

range of skin and hair care lines, from

too, the family patriarch, as well as his wife,

clients—from mothers who might come in

imported lines to the company’s in-house

May, proved to be just as forward thinking

with their children to our senior citizen cli-

goods. One particular standout is Hollywood

as they had been when they decided to open

ents who have been coming to our shop for

Beauty’s full selection of entirely natural,

decades. We even have some fourth-gener-

Japanese-made aromatherapy products.

Along with the salons and schools,

the beauty school. These

the job requires is minimal—if you’ve got a

The business may have an expan-

cosmetics factories stood

ation customers! Our oldest client, in fact, is

out then, and now, as fa-

more than 100 years old, and helping people

For more information about May’s Garden

cilities that have never

look their best is something we believe is

Spa check out the official website:

used animal testing for

important for everyone.”

106-0032 Tokyo, Minato-ku, 6-4-1 Roppongi

Hills Hollywood Beauty Plaza 3F

their products, which range from mas-

Given the strong sense of social respon-

sibility that the salon has maintained over

Hours: 9:00–18:00 | Tel: 03-3408-1613

the years, it comes as no surprise that Dai

Web: www.hollywoodsalon.co.jp/mgs/mgs_e

Ushiyama found himself drawn to the world

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

CH E E KY PAR AD E LOOKS TO TA KE TH E W O RLD IN STRI D E

by Matthew Hernon apanese pop acts selling out concerts across Europe and America is not the kind of phenomenon you would have expected to hear about a few years ago. Musicians from this country have traditionally struggled to make an impact beyond Asia, but there are signs that suggest things might be starting to change, particularly amongst quirky female artists.

Global interest in the J-pop scene appears to be growing, thanks to the rise of acts like Kyary Pamyu Pamyu and Perfume, who between them have completed five world tours in the last three years.

Another group who’ve made a big international breakthrough in recent times is the thrash metal/pop band BABYMETAL. As well as supporting Lady Gaga in the summer, they managed to reach number three on the iTunes US rock charts and even featured on the cover of one of the world’s biggest selling music magazines, Kerrang.

Hoping to follow in their footsteps is a group of nine effervescent young girls known as Cheeky Parade. Formed in 2012, the youthful idols have enjoyed a very promising start to their careers with their first three singles all making the top five of the Oricon Charts.

Domestic success isn’t enough though: the ambitious nonet are determined to succeed outside of their homeland, and in October made their international debut in New York. Performing at the prestigious CBGB Music & Film Festival, alongside

J

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

We are different from other idols. We have a lot of dynamism and our music is in-your-face, with a high tempo—not really the ballad style that most people would expect. acts like Devo and Jane’s Addiction, the girls were initially anxious as they took to the stage, but that nervous energy soon turned to excitement as the crowds came flocking.

“Playing in America gave us a lot of confidence,” says group member and dance leader, Asami Watanabe. “When we first went on, aside from the 40 or so Japanese fans that came out with us, there weren’t many people watching. Then as we started playing all these people suddenly turned up, dancing along to all our songs.

“As a group we are very energetic, but I think they were displaying even more energy than us. A lot of the tourists walking by were surprised by what they were seeing. We’ve never experienced anything like that before; it made us even more resolute about trying to make Cheeky Parade a global success so we can play in numerous cities around the globe.”

It’s not going to be easy. In the past a

number of a high profile artists from Japan, including Seiko Matsuda and Hikaru Utada, have tried but failed to conquer Western markets. In an extremely competitive environment they found it difficult to stand out as they basically attempted to mimic European and American singers rather than producing a sound or style that you would call original.

BABYMETAL and Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, on the other hand, offer something unique.

They are not trying fit in or be cool and the fact that they are so unconventional simply adds to their allure. Cheeky Parade believe they also fall in to that category.

“We are different from other idols,” says the group’s leader Yuna Sekine. “We have a lot of dynamism and our music is in-your-face, with a high tempo—not really the ballad style that most people would expect. When we play live we think it creates a festival-like atmosphere. On top of that we are rather brash and cheeky, hence the name.”

The group feel they have what it takes to make an impression on the world stage, and although they still have a long way to go it is encouraging to see them stepping out of their comfort zone and giving it a go. Whether they do find success abroad or not, one thing is for certain: they will have a lot of fun trying.

Cheeky Parade are set to play at Zepp Diver City, Odaiba on December 14. Foreign citizens who sign up at http://tokyogirlsupdate.com/connect-cheekyparade. html can enter for free.

MAX BRENNER | RESTAURANTS | 33

I

f you think chocolate is something to enjoy with just your taste buds, you’ve got some learning to do. And there’s no one better to give you a bit of education than Max Brenner. The wildly popular, Israeli-born chocolate franchise has been taking the globe by storm with the philosophy of “Creating a New Chocolate Culture Worldwide,” and it’s no surprise to see why.

The theme of the restaurants is all about experiencing chocolate with as many senses as possible: holding a warm, rounded mug of thick hot chocolate in both hands, bringing it up to your nose, and breathing in its heady aroma as you take a sip that makes you feel as if your insides were getting a warm hug.

And that’s only one of the ways you can experience the chocolate extravaganza that is a visit to a Max Brenner shop. There are chocolate fondues, milkshakes, chocolate-drizzled waffles, and even a chocolate pizza. In fact, the menu is so inventive that it might just make Willy Wonka want to head back to the laboratory and think up some new ideas.

Many of the menu items are served with custom-made dishes and utensils as well, making a visit to Max Brenner something more than just a meal. The restaurant describes the chocolate eating (or drinking) experience as a “ceremony,” and whether or not you’re ready to convert to Chocolatism, it’s hard to deny the appeal that accompanies all of the attention to detail that is devoted to the “anti-vanilla.” And while you wouldn’t

get funny looks if you decided to check out one of their Tokyo shops solo, this is definitely one chocolate experience that you’ll want to share with someone else. (First off, eating a chocolate pizza all by yourself is likely to put you in a sugar coma...) After all, when you create your own masterpiece from the Classic European—a do-it-yourself experience that combines towers of milk, dark, or white chocolate with toffee sauce, strawberries, cocoa sponge cake, and marshmallows—you’re going to want a witness to help you appreciate—and eat—your work of chocolate art.

However, if you don’t have time for a full sit-down chocolate session, there are plenty of dishes that can be taken to go, and a full selection of chocolate confections that would make a great gift for someone special—including yourself!

The chocolate bars have been a hit in Tokyo—the franchise has locations in Omotesando and Skytree’s Solamachi, and will be launching their third shop in Hiroo, starting December 13.

So if you’re feeling ready to take your chocolate level to the max, what are you waiting for?

MAX BRENNER CHOCOLATE BARS: OMOTESANDO HILLS 150-0001 Tokyo, Shibuya-ku, Jingumae 4-12-10 Omotesando Hills 1F | Tel: 03-5413-5888 TOKYO SOLAMACHI 131-0045 Tokyo, Sumida-ku, Oshiage 1-1-2 Tokyo Skytree Town 1F | Tel: 03-5610-6400 HIROO PLAZA (OPENING DECEMBER 13) 150-0012 Tokyo, Shibuya-ku, Hiroo 5-6-6 Hiroo Plaza 1F | Tel: 03-6450-2400

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

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EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 35

tokyoweekender_sakura_20140930_ol.pdf 1 2014/09/30 17:31:59

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www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

AN EVENING OF GOOD TASTE

S

canning the crowd at the Enjoy! Sake Night Tokyo event, you might think that the mixed group of more than 100 were already operating at a high level of sake savvy. Guests from around the globe were discussing flavor profiles, comparing fruity, sparkling nigori (unfiltered) brews with the light yet complex tastes of junmai daiginjo-shu.

But most of the people gathered at the evening, which was organized by the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, would be the first to admit that they were just getting started with tasting sake.

In fact, before the lecture presented by the event’s keynote speaker, Kenichi Ohashi, many at the international gathering probably wouldn’t have thought very much about the complexities of the sake brewing process, or about how nihonshu—the Japanese word for sake—closely reflects the qualities of the water and rice that go into producing Japan’s

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

national beverage. As the lecture continued, an eager crop of students for the evening learned how the flavor of sake changes as the rice it is made from is polished, and which sake goes best with beef (junmai, just in case you were curious).

Guests at the party, which was held at Café Serre in Ginza, then had the chance to taste the difference for themselves. Following the lecture and a ceremonial breaking open of a fresh cask of sake, known as kagami biraki, guests had a go at sake from all 47 prefectures of Japan, accompanied by food specialties from the country’s most well known sake-producing regions. Between the lively conversation, the sake that went down (a little too) easily, and the mix of Japanese and Western cuisine, the evening was over before we knew it. Here’s to hoping that this is just the first of many from the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association.

Until next time, kampai!

EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 37 The Tolman (Private) Collection Atago Jinja Mae

LOVE JAPAN

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www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

Bill with Bob Geldof in Roppongi. Bob launched “Band Aid” way back in 1984, and this year he’s working on efforts to fight Ebola in Africa.

I

f you know me and read the column, you know I love Japan,

talked to the manager. She was nice but it was obvious she wasn’t

and for the most part really admire and like the Japanese

going to do anything so I went over and said “people come here to

(with just a few exceptions). Like just about everyone I

relax and enjoy—why don’t you two go get a room.” The guy was a

know, I have a few peeves, but I know just about everyone

little belligerent, but the girl just seemed to want to get out of there.

does no matter where they live. So here are a few of my pet

On their way out he came over to tell me I owed him an apology,

peeves these days. Pardon me for being a bit of a Grinch as I start

and I said “forget it.” They left and a sort of mafia-looking Japanese

off the column...

guy—who was with a beautiful girl nearby and had taken it all in—

came over to our table and said “Thank you” in perfect English. Of

First, there are people out there who go to Starbucks or Sega-

fredo, kick off their sandals and put their bare—and often dirty—

course I realize, after I watch CNN and see what’s happening around

feet up on a chair at their table. Recently a tough-looking foreign

the world, my peeves are not really that serious. Still, little things

woman had her feet up on the table. She didn’t like it when I told

can mean a lot and I just wish more people would be more consider-

her that “many young Japanese mothers bring their kids here and

ate and respect the rights of others.

they eat at the outdoor tables.” She didn’t say anything; instead,

she gave me a dirty look and left.

er for 2014. Christmas and New Year’s are just a short time away,

and we’ll be entering 2015, which I hope is a really good one for

I like dogs and if I thought I could take care of one I’d have

Time, as we often say, flies, and this is the last issue of Weekend-

a big police dog. I do, however, feel that people who take their

you, your family and the people of the world. My thanks for your

canines to public places should keep them on the ground or floor,

friendship and support in 2014. Happy Holidays! Time to move on to

or in one of those buggy contraptions they push them around in.

what’s been a busier-than-ever social scene here in old Edo.

Tables at cafes where people drink, and often eat, are made for just that, not for small barking dogs to run around on and try to lap up

DO LAGOS’ BRAZIL NATIONAL DAY RECEPTION

the crumbs or whatever might still be on the table.

This was the first big event hosted by recently-arrived Brazilian

Ambassador Andre Aranha Correa Do Lago and his wife Beatrice.

Another day, another café and a tall bearded foreigner (proba-

bly in his 30s) and a young Japanese girl, who was wearing leather

The occasion was to celebrate their National Day, and they and their

sandals and a vintage style hippie dress sit down near us. They

staff really went all out to make the reception at their residence a

didn’t order anything, but she kicked off her sandals, and he slid

very special event. The outgoing and already popular couple really

down in his chair and she put her bare feet in his crotch. It didn’t

put their own personal touch on the furnishings and art in their

take long for her to ignore the other customers and crawl all over

new home and it looked great. All of the things they plan to do with

him. I tried to ignore all this, but when two tables of middle-aged

the garden, etc. sounded good.

ladies who had just got their drinks got up and left, I went and

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

I also want to compliment the embassy chef. The buffet of salads

PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 39

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Brazil National Party

Aye Aye Nyein, 9. The host, Vietnamese Ambassador Doan Xuan Hung and Japanese of-

1. Brazil Ambassador Andre Aranova Correa Do Lago, Thai Ambassador Thanatip

ficial 10. Swispon Corp COO Michel Bielecki, Canadian Ambassador Mackenzie Clugston,

Upatising 2. Greek Ambassador Nikolaos Tsamados, Georgian Ambassador Levan Tsin-

his wife Paula Bowers, Ceremony’s Tsukasa Shiga

tisadze 3. Komeito Party Leader Yamaguchi-san 4. Senora Do Lago, Italian Ambassador Domenico Giorgio, his wife Rita 5. Musicians providing some wild Brazilian sounds

Halloween Oakwood Midtown 11. Yes that’s former sumo champ Konishiki 12. Oakwood’s Eric, departing German

Vietnam Celebration at the New Otani

Tourism Minister Peter Blumenstengel, Oakwood’s Martin Fluck 13. Oakwood staff Nico,

6. Diet Member Ishihara, Philippines Ambassador Manuel Lopez, his son Beaver visiting

US football player Kevin 14. Run for the Cure’s Dora, Martin and Oakwood’s Amy 15.

from Manila 7. The hostess Le Nguyet Nga, her daughter Doan Thu Mai

Norio and Masae 16. Keren, Konishiki’s super wife Chie, and Martin

8. Ceremony President Tsukasa Shiga, Myanmar Ambassador Khim Maung Tin, his wife

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

40 | SOCIETY | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES

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18 Nick Massee’s Big Charity Blast

1. A new mom and dad—Bahrain Ambassador Khalil Hassan, and his wife Yoshiko.

8. Bill Page, Asian Tiger’s Nick Masse, Richard Ragains 9. Anthony Edwards, Nick

They had a baby son on November 12. 2. Armenian Ambassador Dr. Grant Pogosyan, his

Masee 10. Keyshot photographer, Kerry Raftis 11. Super saxophonist, Marcus Pittman

wife Natalia, and Homat Homes’ Pres., Shizuko Tani 3. The hostess Mrs. Pogosyan with

12. Two lovely guests at the party 13. Yumi Nishikawa, Mihoko Fukabori, Asian Tiger’s

Dr. and Mrs. Kostadin L. Karagiozov 4. Min-On Concert Assoc. Pres. Hiroyasu Kobayashi

Andrew Olea, a guest, and Nick.

and Amb. Pogosyan.

Yoyogi International School Party at Patinastella Oman Halloween Party for Special Needs Children

14. Ayelet Lila, Noam Lila 15. Jeremy Kells, Rebecca Adams 16. Jane Stokes, Ananth

5. Bill Hersey, Professional Japanese flutist Yosuke Irie, Abeer Al-Muslahi (Oman),

Gansan, Dharshi Ganesan, Don Stokes 17. School Director Yuko Muir, John and Michiko

Waleed Siam (Palestine) 6. School Teacher/MJ impersonator, Maali Siam, her son

Stark, Shino and Stephen Lasseter 18. Yuko Muir, Patinastella Project Mgr. Paul Snyder,

Kareem, her daughter Dima 7. Khaleed (Oman), Dima and Maali, wife Abeer, their

Ian Muir.

daughter Iman, at National Azabu’s party.

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 41 and pies with delicious, flaky crusts was excellent. A first for me,

ender. As busy as Nick is—and he really is—he spends much of his

and a new favorite, was the hearts of palm pie. Delicious!!

free time helping others, especially handicapped children.

Lots of nice people there, and everyone had the opportunity

For the first time I was able to accept Nick’s invitation to his

to mingle and chat before a group of Brazilian musicians came in

annual fundraising dinner to watch a seasonal fireworks show

and made some lively Brazilian sounds. It was great. Also want to

from his spacious apartment and balcony on Yamate Dori.

thank Greek Ambassador Nikolaos Tsamados for giving me a ride

home. Little things like that mean a lot.

wall with more than 100 charity-minded people mixing, making

Nick’s tastefully decorated apartment is big, but it was wall-to-

new friends, and enjoying the bountiful buffet and drinks. In

VIETNAM SPECIAL PARTY AT THE NEW OTANI

addition to viewing the fireworks, people relaxed while listening to

My apartment is a few minutes’ walk from the Vietnamese Em-

the live saxophone music of Marcus Pittman (he’s good) and posed

bassy, and thanks to Ambassador Doan Tuan Hung and his wife

for a variety of photos by pro photographer Kerry Raftis.

Le Nguyet Nga, I’ve met many interesting people, had some great

Vietnamese food, and really enjoyed many receptions at their

Machikaido Philanthropist Award. Believe me, he deserves it.

home in Moto Yoyogi.

Proceeds of the charity party that day all went to helping handi-

capped children. Nick is also very active in YMCA activities and the

September 1 was the 69th Anniversary of the Socialist Re-

Nick is the only non-Japanese to receive the prestigious

public of Vietnam, and they celebrated this special occasion with

Run for the Cure Foundation, which held another successful run

many of their friends, with a colorful, people-packed reception at

around the Imperial Palace at the end of November.

the Tsuru West Room in the New Otani Hotel. leaders, and other VIPs were proof positive of how much time

YOYOGI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL PARTY AT PATINASTELLA

and effort the Ambassador, his wife, and their staff have put into

There was an interesting gathering at Patinastella (formerly Pat-

furthering good relations between their country and Japan. Our

ina), a super-chic restaurant near Bunkamura on Tokyu honten

hearty congratulations.

dori. The occasion was a laid-back buffet dinner where parents of

the many students at the highly regarded school, founded and run

The numberous Japanese government officials, business

My good frined. Vu Chau was in Japan, and I’m sorry to hear

that his father, a former Ambassador to Japan, was here for med-

by Yuko Muir, could gather and mingle.

ical care. The Ambassador sent me to Vietnam several years ago

and I did a cover story on that beautiful country. Hope to get back

interesting people, and checked out the delicious buffet.

there in the near future.

I couldn’t stay long, but I was happy I dropped by, met some

HALLOWEEN—HERE AND THERE

ARMENIA’S 28TH ANNIVERSARY OF INDEPENDENCE CELEBRATION AT THE OKURA HOTEL

Japan really went overboard with celebrating Halloween this

Armenian Ambassador Dr. Grant Pogosyan and his wife Natalia

around Roppongi and Shibuya, weeks before the actual day of Hal-

chose the Okura Hotel’s Akebono Room for their country’s 28th

loween. Those Don Quixote shops, where people were lined up to

Independence Day. Plenty of Tokyo’s celebrities were there, along

buy costumes, really were happy with the cash coming in. National

with a wide variety of interesting people that included Japanese

Azabu had a very successful party in Arisugawa park with food, a

government leaders, diplomats, business magnates, and of course

flea market, and a costume contest.

the Armenian community.

of makeup—for the lively party at Oakwood Premiere in Midtown.

year. I saw plenty of young girls dressed in costumes and roaming

The Ambassador made an excellent welcome speech and even

Konishiki dressed up in drag—sporting a black dress and lots

added a touch of humor. I, and the other guests, really enjoyed the

That was fun.

bountiful buffet that featured many delicious Armenian dishes.

My congratulations on the reception—and the beautiful Armenian

hosted a wonderful event for children with special needs. En-

dress the hostess Natalia wore for that special evening.

tertainment included a talented Michael Jackson impersonator,

Oman Ambassador Khalid Al-Muslahi and his wife Abeer

two brothers dressed as pirates who did magic tricks and made balloon animals, and a professional Japanese flute artist.

NICK MASEE’S ANNUAL CHARITY BARBECUE

The beautiful Oman Embassy was really decorated for

I’ve known Nick Masee, managing director of Asian Tigers Mobility Japan for a long time and really appreci-

the occasion and there were all kinds of fun gifts for

ate his friendship to me and his support of the Week-

the kids there.

Segafredo Pres. Brian Mori, art dealer Johnny Walker,

Showbiz personality Allen Merril and Segafredo staffers

Danile Yoshikoshi and Alef Saraie check out last

UAE’s Elfateh Mergane at Segafredo in Shibuya

at Segafredo in Hiroo

month’s Weekender at Segafredo in Hiroo

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

COMING TO A CINEMA NEAR YOU IN DECEMBER DEC 12

THE HOBBIT: THE BATTLE OF THE FIVE ARMIES

I

n this final installment of The Hobbit trilogy, The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies, it all comes to a head as Dwarven king Thorin Oakenshield has some terrible decisions to make as the Necromancer’s hideous army of Orcs fast approaches. With war on the horizon, the good races of Dwarves, Elves and Men must find a way to triumph against the odds. Martin Freeman is back as Bilbo alongside Ian McKellen in the now legendary role of Gandalf the Grey and Richard Armitage as Thorin. Cate Blanchett, Orlando Bloom, Benedict Cumberbatch, Christopher Lee, and a host of familiar faces will also be returning to battle the army of darkness. While this isn’t the last of Tolkien’s writings on the history and legends of Middle-earth, we’re not likely to see any of the less famous works hitting the screen any time soon. Catch the final installment to what might be the most influential fantasy series of all time while you can.

DEC 20

MAPS TO THE STARS

H

aving made his name in the eighties with intensely graphic science fiction flicks the likes of Scanners, Videodrome and The Fly, director David Cronenburg needs little introduction. The filmmaker may have moved away from his horror roots in recent years but he continues to put out some of the most interesting and edgy fare Hollywood has to offer. Maps to the Stars brings together an impressive cast that includes Julianne Moore, John Cusack, Mia Wasikowska and current muse Robert Pattinson to tell the story of an imploding Hollywood family. This sharp-toothed social satire skewers the lifestyles of the rich and famous while putting a sword to our celebrityobsessed culture. The story focuses on one toxic Tinseltown family and the people around them as they fight to stay in the limelight.

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

LOVE, ROSIE

DEC 20

F

ans of British romantic comedies in the Love, Actually mold will want to check out the similarly titled Love, Rosie.

The film stars Hunger Games heartthrob Sam Claflin as Alex and Mortal Instruments star Lily Collins as the titular Rosie. Best friends since childhood, the pair are separated when Alex moves from their native Ireland to Boston, America. While life continues and circumstances change, Rosie wonders whether her heart hasn’t always belonged to her best friend, but is there any way for them to ever be together? Adapted from the bestselling novel (titled Where Rainbows End in the UK) by Irish novelist Cecelia Ahern, the author also penned novel and 2007 movie adaptation P.S. I Love You.

DEC 12

HUNDRED YEN LOVE

W

inner of the Japan Splash section at this year’s Tokyo International Film Festival, Hundred Yen Love represents the best Japanese independent cinema has to offer. Director Masaharu Take helms this tale of a young woman who works the late shift at a 100 yen shop after being forced into leaving home following a fight with her sister. The aimless young lady wanders lethargically through life before slowly getting drawn into training at a boxing gym she passes on her way home from work. The film is driven by an incredibly physical performance from lead Sakura Ando who pulls off an impressive physical change over the course of the film, developing from drifting loser to driven amateur boxer.

SHOWING THIS MONTH | SCREEN | 43 DEC 12

GONE GIRL

D

avid Fincher has racked up an impressive back catalogue of thought-provoking hits in his career, including Fight Club, Seven, The Social Network and The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo to name a few. Fincher has also whipped up storms of debate wherever his films have been released, and the director’s latest, Gone Girl, is proving to be no exception.

Ben Affleck stars as Nick Dunne, a bar owner who returns home one day to find his front door open and his wife Amy (Rosamund Pike) missing. With the police prying into the couple’s seemingly perfect marriage and the media whipping up a storm, Nick’s own suspicious behavior comes into question. Before long, people start to ask: Did Nick kill his wife? Affleck turns in a solid performance here in a dark and stylish thriller that will keep audiences guessing until the final reel.

DEC 20

OFOFTHETHEBEST: MOVIES OF 2013 >10BEST REST THE ThisMUST Month’sSEE Releases AND THE MUDSHIP SAILS AWAY DECEMBER 12 One of the best films in TIFF’s Japanese Splash section last year, this first feature from Hirobumi Watanabe follows selfish loser Takashi around his home town in a comedy that takes a rather surreal turn.

THE LAST: NARUTO THE MOVIE DECEMBER 6 Naruto is now in its 15th year.

This latest cinematic adventure for the young ninja is his tenth movie and the first to officially be part of the long-running manga storyline.

BAYMAX (BIG HERO 6)

D

isney Animation Studio’s latest, Big Hero 6 (or as it’s known in Japan, Baymax), may not have the universal appeal of Frozen, which took Japan—and the rest of the world, for that matter—by storm. But gamer kids, and more than a few parents are going to love this tale of cuddly robots, colorful superheroes and killer tech. Set in the futuristic city of San Fransokyo, young Hiro Hamada is a robotics whiz who comes up with an incredible new invention before suffering the crushing loss of his beloved older brother, Tadashi. At his lowest point, Hiro accidently stumbles across Baymax, a bumbling, inflatable robot his brother invented before passing away. While Baymax isn’t exactly the young genius’s idea of an awesome fighting machine should be, Hiro must learn to appreciate his brother’s gift for what it is, not what he wants it to be. The film wears its heartfelt themes on its sleeve, but there’s still time for plenty of action as Hiro puts together a team of super-powered science kids to tackle a masked villain who has stolen his invention and is using it to terrorize the city.

BILLY ELLIOT THE MUSICAL LIVE DECEMBER 5 Not a film as such. Instead, it’s the chance to catch the popular London West End stage show, about a young English boy who harbors dreams of dancing, on a Tokyo cinema screen.

BAD MILO DECEMBER 20 A throw-back, gross-out comedy-horror of the Basket Case variety, where a guy discovers his stomach problems are being caused by a demon living in his intestines.

This month’s movie previews were written by Christopher O’Keeffe. For more movie news and reviews visit www.tokyoweekender.com

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

AGENDA 1

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AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN DECEMBER 2 DEC 15-16

1 DEC 8

3 DEC 14

4 DEC 17-19

The Drums

Setagaya Boroichi

Cheeky Parade

Hagoita-ichi

Get your hands on some

Held in a quiet residential

This sprightly nonet will

Take a trip back to the

tickets for the Brook-

area of Setagaya, the 430-year

be sharing their quirky

Edo era and stock up on

lyn-based, new-wave sensation group

old flea market attracts ten of thou-

style at two shows at Zepp DiverCity.

decorative wooden paddles depicting

The Drums following their latest

sands of visitors each time, so get ready

Foreigners who register in advance

traditional scenes—they make for

release, entitled Encyclopedia.

to push your way to a bargain.

can get in free.

great gifts and keepsakes.

Where: Liquid Room Ebisu, Shibuya-ku

Where: Area around Kamimachi Station,

Where: Zepp DiverCity, Odaiba

Where: Senso-ji Temple, Asakusa, Taito-ku

How much: ¥6,000

Setagaya-ku | How much: Free

How much: Free

How much: Free

More info: www.liquidroom.net

More info: www.tokyoweekender.com

More info: tokyogirlsupdate.com

More info: www.senso-ji.jp

5 DEC 13

6 DEC 20

7 DEC 31

8 DEC 1-25

Bonjour Tokyo RED

Arakicho Sake Festival

Whistlebump

Tokyo Tower Christmas

Christmas II

Whether you like it

Countdown 2015

Illumination

Get in the Christmas

sparkly or cloudy, you

Ring in the New Year

Even though Tokyo’s

spirit French-style with festive hats,

can sample over 100 varieties of

alongside Swiss DJs Olivier Ducret, The

greatest landmark will be lit up all

a fashion show, models, DJs, and a

nihonshu from all prefectures at this

Genevan Heathen and DJ Reas in honor

through December, the Christmas Day

holiday-themed dress code.

first-rate sake festival.

of the 150th anniversary of Japanese-

illumination will be pure magic.

Where: Tokyo Salon (Las Chicas), Shibuya

Where: Area around Arakicho, Yotsuya

Swiss diplomatic relations.

Where: Symbol Promenade Park, Koto-ku

How much: ¥2,000 (including one drink

How much: ¥3,000

Where: XEX Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku

How much: Free (observatory admn. ¥900)

and Christmas hats for the 50 first guests)

More info: www.kurand.jp

How much: ¥3,000 (adv.)

More info: www.tokyoweekender.com

More info: www.tokyoweekender.com

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

More info: www.iflyer.tv

DECEMBER | AGENDA | 45

DECEMBER © Masayoshi Sukita

9

10

PRIME RIBS Juicy slices of delicious roast beef, cooked to perfection. Available at dinner time (after 17.00)* on weekends and public holidays.

11

*Serving times and days may vary according to restaurant

Original Different cuts to satisfy any appetite: the Small Cut at 250g, our Medium Cut of 350g, and for big eaters, a 450g Large Cut.

12 Kentaro Kobuke, Nami no kitsune, courtesy of the Artist and SCAI THE BATHHOUSE, photo by Toru Nagahama

Seared 9 DEC 22

10 DEC 22 Asovision Xmas Special

Fire Walking Festival

Have your Christmas

You’ve probably already

with a side of kawaii:

seen images of barefoot

Yasutaka Nakata (Capsule), model

monks walking on fire and chanting,

Una, Ram Rider and many others

and now you’re invited for a (safe)

from the Asobisystem brigade.

stroll, if you dare.

Where: Club Quattro/Harajuku Astro Hall,

Where: Kabasan Saenazumi shrine, Ibaraki

How much: ¥3,000 (men)/2,500 (women)

How much: Free

More info: www.iflyer.tv

More info: www.tokyoweekender.com

11 DEC 4-9

Three mouthwatering cooking styles to choose from: Original, Seared or Flame Grilled.

Flame Grilled

All of our Prime Rib meals come with traditional au jus sauce, your choice of two freshly made sides, and a salad or a cup of our soup of the day.

12 DEC 13 David Bowie by

Domani: The Art of

Masayoshi Sukita

Tomorrow

View some iconic photo-

Take a look into the future of

graphs of the legendary singer snapped

art in Japan at this multimedia exhibit

by the Japanese photographer since

that showcases the work of young Japa-

1972, including previously unpublished

nese artists who have come back from

work.

government-sponsored study projects.

Where: Spiral Building, Aoyama

Where: The National Art Center, Minato-ku

How Much: Free

How much: ¥1,000

More info: www.spiral.co.jp

More info: domani-ten.com/english/

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

BACK IN THE DAY: DECEMBER 1975 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1975! You can read the rest of this issue

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com

(No.51 1975) and view Weekender’s 42-year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives/

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2014

DECEMBER 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com