MATERIAL MATTERS Tortoiseshell
Meet the Collector
ROSE PHILLIPS
Rose Phillips has collected sewing boxes in tortoiseshell and other materials since she was a child
Material Matters:
TORTOISESHELL
Beautifully marbled and rich in tone, tortoiseshell has been favoured for decorative objects for centuries. But where should today’s collectors start and what are the ethical issues?
TOP 17th-century Dutch ebony cabinet inlaid with tortoiseshell and ivory in the Long Gallery at Chirk Castle, Wrexham. ABOVE French serpentine Boulle perfume box c1840, £995, Mark Goodger Antiques.
With its attractive marbling and warm translucency, tortoiseshell has been a popular material for jewellery and household objects for thousands of years. The fact that, under heat, it becomes easily malleable into fluid shapes has only added to its desirability. But what exactly is tortoiseshell? The material comes from the carapace – the hard upper shell – of one of the marine turtle species, and almost always from the (now critically endangered) hawksbill turtle. Its usage goes back at least as far as the Ancient Greeks, who often used an entire tortoise or turtle shell to create the back of their stringed instrument, the chelys or lyre. Elsewhere, the Romans imported tortoiseshell from Egypt, to use as a
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veneer for furniture – especially those elegant couches along which Romans liked to disport themselves – and small household objects. Later, in 17th-century France, tortoiseshell work became a highly specialised art form, seen on furniture, mirrors, jewel cases, trays, snuffboxes and other decorative items. The leader in the field was André-Charles Boulle (1642-1732), who used tortoiseshell as a background to ornate brasswork, producing a more striking effect than any wood could achieve. The craft spread quickly across Europe. TOP & LEFT Rare harlequin tea caddy c1790, £35,000; miniature tortoiseshell and sterling silver clock by William Comyns 1913 (sold), both Mark Goodger Antiques.
Matthew Lock; The National Trust Photolibrary / Alamy Stock Photo
FE AT U R E S TE VE WRI G H T
In Britain, Gerrit Jensen (active 1680-1715) adopted Boulle’s techniques, combining tortoiseshell and metal to produce elaborate marquetry. Jensen was cabinetmaker by appointment to William and Mary and, subsequently, Queen Anne. Today, the Royal Collection Trust has over 600 pieces in tortoiseshell. This growth in popularity ran alongside the fashion for turtle soup during the 18th century, introduced through Britain’s trading links with the West Indies. Craftsmen would boil the shell, which would turn to gelatine. This could then be moulded into any shape, which it would then
retain. Creating objects in tortoiseshell was thus relatively simple: producing veneers was more time-consuming, as it required the shell to be thinned, then glued to the surfaces of wooden objects or furniture. Different tortoiseshell colours, meanwhile, were produced by the addition of various pigments – most commonly yellow and, more rarely, red and green. Fast forward to the 1960s, and awareness was growing that the hawksbill and other species of marine turtles were rapidly becoming endangered, due to the global market for their meat, shells and eggs. Trading in genuine tortoiseshell was banned worldwide in 1973 under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). ‘Current legislation states that objects created before 3rd March 1947 using worked tortoiseshell can be
‘As a girl, I used to stay with my grandmother and, in my bedroom, there was a workbox made from sadeli [small repeating geometric patterns], which fascinated me. When the estate was broken up in the 1970s, I was given the box as I had always loved it. My husband and I then moved up to Manchester and – partly because there were one or two things missing from the box – I started going round the antiques fairs and realised that I could pick up things to go into this box. My love of antiques snowballed from there.’ Rose has been collecting boxes, largely from Mark Goodger Antiques, ever since. ‘Mark has the most beautiful boxes, and he always says that I have one of the largest collections he has ever seen. I collect tortoiseshell boxes in all different styles and colours – brown, red, green, pressed tortoiseshell... I also pick up other things to go in the boxes – bodkin cases, needle cases, etui sets with inlaid gold and so forth.’ Rose’s favourite pieces include an elaborate Regency ribbed tortoiseshell box, inlaid and engraved all round with silver trailing leaves and fine silver wire (left). The box formerly belonged to the actor Leslie Phillips, known for the Carry On movies, and more recently as the voice of the Sorting Hat in Harry Potter. And what draws Rose to tortoiseshell? ‘I think it’s the wonderful variety, really – red, green, yellow – and the effects you get from light passing through it!’
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MATERIAL MATTERS Tortoiseshell
commercially traded within the UK without a permit,’ explains Mark Dodgson, Secretary General at BADA. ‘However, the seller must be able to demonstrate, if questioned by the authorities, why they believe the item dated from before 1947. Worked examples created on or after 3rd March 1947 require a permit to be sold, issued by the Animal and Plant Health Agency.’ However, this has meant that some producers are making fake tea caddies that look older, in order to bypass these regulations. Buyers unsure of an object’s provenance and date are advised to seek a second opinion from a reputable auction house or from the Animal and Plant Health Agency. When it comes to starting a collection, there is a large variety of objects made from, or containing, tortoiseshell. ‘The range of items goes from a small Georgian brooch with piqué decoration to a Boulle cabinet, which can be extremely large,’ explains columnist, broadcaster and writer Mike Hicks of Stalham Antique Gallery in Norfolk.
MATERIAL MATTERS Tortoiseshell
Mark Goodger specialises in antique boxes and accessories from the 18th century to the art deco period from his Northamptonshire antiques gallery. And, as he explains, buyers in tortoiseshell have a rich and sometimes complex range to choose from. ‘Tortoiseshell is an interesting field, as there are so many variables in terms of quality and condition. Pressed tortoiseshell featuring intricate designs commands high prices – the presses would only be able to make a few items before wearing out, therefore
there will only be a small number of any particular design.’ Colour is also a factor. ‘Red and green tortoiseshell has always been very desirable and remains so today, thanks to both fashion and rarity compared to the yellow form,’ Mark continues. ‘A red or green tea caddy might fetch up to four times the price of a normal blond or dark brown tea caddy. Elsewhere, detailed, eyecatching elegant shapes will always command more money. ‘Anything embellished in silver, gold or engraved mother of pearl also
Buyer’s Guide
Dealer Mark Goodger has advice for those starting out on their collecting journey
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BELOW The National Trust’s properties contain impressive examples of tortoiseshell furniture, such as this 17th-century cabinet at Oxburgh Hall, Norfolk.
1. Ornate English red tortoiseshell Boulle thermometer stand c1899, £650. 2. Pagoda top tortoiseshell tea caddy with gothic pressed tortoiseshell panels c1829, recently sold. 3. French tortoiseshell jewellery box c1865, £1,495. 4. Boulle candlesticks attributed to Charles Asprey c1875, £1,750. All Mark Goodger Antiques.
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4 ©National Trust Images/John Hammond; Matthew Lock
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When it comes to buying tortoiseshell, Mark Goodger’s advice is to get to know a specialist dealer. ‘Once you make your first purchase, they will be keen to look after you as a new collector, learning your taste and giving advice on suitable purchases. If you choose to go online, you will be overwhelmed with the choice. Moreover, the prices may sway you, but beware of the many fake pieces out there.’ There aren’t a great many names to look out for, Mark advises. ‘Named pieces are always great, but most early tea caddies and workboxes rarely have maker’s marks. One maker who does stand out is Thomas Lund (active 180445): his pieces are always high quality and much sought after.’ The firm of William Comyns (active 1885-1930s), meanwhile, truly mastered the art of tortoiseshell, producing boxes, clocks, vanity sets, candlesticks, perfume bottles, vases, photo frames and many other beautiful pieces. ‘Comyns’ pieces tend to be of very high quality, as they embellished tortoiseshell with decorative sterling silver mouldings or inlaid and engraved silver into the shell, using the technique known as silver piqué – very popular and highly collected,’ says Mark. Properly looked after, tortoiseshell should age well. ‘It is a strong and malleable material, and, if cared for, will last the test of time,’ Mark confirms.
ABOVE Tortoiseshell and gilded brass French writing table at the National Trust’s Lanhydrock house, Cornwall. LEFT Green sarcophagus-shaped tortoiseshell tea caddy c1800, £7,995, Mark Goodger Antiques.
commands a high price – and it’s not just about what’s on the outside. Some tortoiseshell pieces, such as tea caddies, vanity pieces or sewing accessories, contain solid silver pieces, which raise their value.’ When it comes to looking after tortoiseshell, ‘Keep it out of direct sun and away from any heat or damp spots,’ advises Mark. ‘Restoring it is skilled, time-consuming work. No magic spray gets the sheen from dull or dried-out shell.’ The market is full of fake tortoiseshell, so buyers should take care, says Mark. ‘My advice is to
buy from a recognised dealer and to do your homework on them prior to purchase.’ Real tortoiseshell will also tend to look lighter – with more layers of light and shade – than its fake counterpart. ‘Collecting tortoiseshell is easy, and even affordable, to a degree,’ Mark continues. ‘Tea caddies, for example, can start from £500.’ Condition is everything. ‘Look for repairs – some pieces have been badly restored and lacquered to make them look shiny. Damaged tortoiseshell pieces can be found for £50 upwards.’ And Mark’s final advice? ‘Buy what you like and the most you can afford. The beautiful thing about tortoiseshell pieces is that they sit well in contemporary homes – they reflect light so beautifully.’
Where to buy tortoiseshell MARK GOODGER ANTIQUES
07779 654879 markgoodger.co.uk
STALHAM ANTIQUE GALLERY
29 High Street, Stalham, Norfolk, NR12 9AH 01692 580636 mikehicksantiques.co.uk
SPENCER SWAFFER
30 High Street, Arundel, West Sussex, BN18 9AB 01903 882132 spencerswaffer.co.uk ADRIAN ALAN
66/67 South Audley Street, London, W1K 2QX 020 7495 2324 adrianalan.com
SALLY TURNER ANTIQUES
07860 201718 lapada.org/dealers/sallyturner-antiques MAYFAIR GALLERY
39 South Audley Street, London, W1K 2PP 020 7491 3435 mayfairgallery.com
October 2020 Homes & Antiques 101