Marketing seo aff

Street food

JODHPUR Opulent travels &

Make it at home

Zanzibar

street feasts

Spice route redefined

Healthy plates

that still taste great

Nippon tuck

Japanese bites

Quique Dacosta Pops up in Dubai

48HRS IN Sri Lanka, Tasmania, Bahamas

LEGENDARY FRENCH CHEF

PAUL BOCUSE

VOL 3 ISSUE 3 2016

Hotels Hotels Gary Richard Rhodes Corrigan Chicory Chicory Travel Travel News News Michael Soups CainesAntarctica Cruises

Editor’s letter Editor Anisa Al Hawaj Associate Editor Ruchika Vyas Sub Editor Ali Ahmed Layout Editor Joy Evangelista Consulting Editor Sudeshna Ghosh Review Editor Mona Mohammed Social Media Editor Husain Khaled Features Editor Francesca Jackson Publisher Salah Alhaiki Account Director Ollie Williams Research Assistant Mary Ann Parungao Editorial Enquiries editorial@gulfdigital.net Sales & Advertising sales@gulfdigital.net Distribution Enquiries info@gulfdigital.net Communications & Design info@gulfdigital.net Email info@gulfdigital.net Twitter @foodtravelme Facebook @FoodTravelME Web www.foodandtravel.me

Bon Appétit

Contributors

Food and Travel, UK Mark Sansom, editor mark.sansom@ foodandtravel.com

-

Food and Travel, Germany Renate Ruge, editor renate.ruge@ foodandtravel.de Food and Travel, Mexico Cecilia Núñez, editor cecilia.nunez@ lyrsa.com.mx Food and Travel, Turkey Mehmet Tel, editor mehmet.tel@ foodandtravel.com.tr Food and Travel, Italy Marco Sutter, publisher publisher@foodandtravelitalia.com

WINNER

PPA Independent Publishing Company of the Year

I

t’s hard to believe that we are already approaching the spring, as another year unfolds before us. In this issue we explore the African spice island of Zanzibar (p50) and discover the streets and palaces of Jodhpur (p70).

This year also marks the greatest number of cruise ships to launch. We round up those making maiden voyages and pick the best routes to try (p89). For springtime sun, try Sri Lanka, Tasmania and the Bahamas for size (p101).

Looking for some delicious treats, well look no further than the tastiest Middle Eastern treats (p64) or flavours of the Far East (p76). This month we talk to Michelin greats Gary Rhodes (p38), Michael Caines (p116), Quique Dacosta (p12) and culinary living legend Paul Bocuse joins the team with his own column (p110). And for all of you have been waiting to see who won the accolades of “Best of the Best” across the Gulf, find out who won the 2016 GCC Awards (p15).

WINNER

PPA Publisher of the Year Food and Travel Magazine is published by Green Pea Publishing Ltd, Ingate Place, London, UK. Food and Travel & Food and Travel Arabia are published under license from Turnstart Limited, a UK company. Gulf Publishing Ltd, a UK company and Gulf Digital WLL are the exclusive licensed agents for Food & Travel Arabia in the GCC under copyright of Green Pea Publishing. All rights of the licensed material belong to Turnstart Limited and may not be reproduced whether in whole or in part without its prior written consent.

The name “Food and Travel” is the property of Turnstart Limited. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the Publisher. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are not accepted and will not be returned

Anisa Al Hawaj Editor

Ruchika Vyas Associate Editor of Food and Travel, Ruchika brings a wealth of experience, having written for a number of prestigious publications, including: Lonely Planet India, Travel + Leisure India, CNN Travel, Cond Nast Traveller India and Travel Wire Asia. A solo traveller, she bakes and makes chocolates in her spare time.

Paul Bocuse Holder of 3 Michelin Stars for over 50 years, The Culinary Institute of America’s Chef of the Century, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, and the Legion d’honneur. are just a few of his accolades.

Food and Travel welcomes the recognised Father of French Cuisine and living legend as one of our most revered contributors and columnists.

Sudeshna Ghosh An awardwinning editor, Sudeshna has been creating food, travel and lifestyle content for over ten years, From judging culinary competitions and prestigious restaurant awards, to numerous appearances on TV and radio. In this issue, she talks to British culinary maestro Gary Rhodes

11

March 2016

RECIPE INDEX STARTS ON PAGE 119

119

Sweet and sour chicory with seared beef fillet

119

Chicory, honey turkey ham and parmesan gratin

120

Grilled chicory with freekeh & smoked mackerel

120

Warm goat’s cheese, chicory and red pear salad

120

Blackened Cajun chicken with sweet potato

121

Baked chicken with fruit

121

Moroccan chicken

122

Spanish orange saffron chicken

122

Chicken and prawns meatballs

123

Chicken pilaf with herbs and eggs

123

Chicken in Tikka Masala marinate

123

Pani puri pops

124

Sweet date chutney

11

110 64

40

116

50

124 Daniya 124

Wild mushroom and nasturtium momos

124

Simple sambal

125 Gado-gado 125

Nasi lemak

126 Tendon 126

Miso-simmered mackerel

126

Meat bento

50

126 Tonkatsu 127

Soba with duck breast

127 Dashi

4

127

Sea bream sashimi salad

127

Pumpkin doughnuts

128

Baked whole snapper with walnuts

128

Dukkah lamb cutlets & pomegranate salad

128

Hazelnut dukkah

129

Stuffed spatchcocks with lamb and pine nuts

129

Persian pavlova

76

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

70

64

On the cover 15 GCC Awards

Street food

JODHPUR Opulent travels &

Make it at home

Zanzibar

street feasts

Spice route redefined

Healthy plates

that still taste great

Nippon tuck

Japanese bites

Quique Dacosta Pops up in Dubai

48HRS IN Sri Lanka, Tasmania, Bahamas

LEGENDARY FRENCH CHEF

PAUL BOCUSE

VOL 3 ISSUE 3 2016

Hotels Hotels Gary Richard Rhodes Corrigan Chicory Chicory Travel Travel News News Michael Soups CainesAntarctica Cruises

38 Gary Rhodes 50 Zanzibar 70 Jodhpur 89 Cruising

110 Paul Bocuse

116 Michael Caines

89

INSIDE TRAVEL

ARRIVALS 7

Myanmar Unspoilt beauty

11

Travel News Undiscovered Laos, Roux in Malaysia and Botswana’s 50th birthday celebrations

10

Hotel news Brand-new openings in Thailand, Mexico, Australia and the Netherlands

12

Enigma Variations Chef Quique Dacosta brings his 3 Michelin star flair to Dubai

38

Cover interview Gary Rhodes talks about his glittering career

GOURMET TRAVELS 51 44

70

38

Trading places Explore the many exotic flavours of Zanzibar

Food cover: Alan Benson.

109

Reviews & views We try an Asian fusion delight

110

Carême Column Culinary legend Paul Bocuse joins the team

112

Restaurants Foraged plates in Iceland, flaming cocktails and three for romantic dinners

114

Places to stay Dubai design and The Lanesborough’s new look

116

Maiden voyage We introduce the new cruise ships for 2016

101

48 hours City breaks in Galle, Hobart and Nassau

FOOD 44

In season Learn to love chicory’s distinctive bitterness

64

Modern east Fresh takes on Middle Eastern flavours

76

Big in Japan Sushi is just the beginning of this versatile cuisine

82

Winner winner, chicken dinner Exciting & nutritious chicken dishes

96

Street feast Try your hand at vegan recipes sourced from vendors across Asia

Rhapsody in blue A Rajasthani food tour through Jodhpur

TRIED AND TASTED

40

89

Carême insider We talk to Michelin starred Michael Caines about life and his first venture outside the UK

PLUS 15

130

GCC Awards The winners; see who has won the plaudits and accolades from across the Gulf After hours Jersey chef Steve Smith names his food heroes

Contact: Amal Abdulla : +973 17558898 Eman Taheri : +973 17558814

Arrivals News and views from the worlds of food and travel

CHANGING OF THE GUARD

Photo by Gary Latham

When Rudyard Kipling visited Burma, he declared it to be ‘quite unlike any other place you know about’. Over a century on, and Southeast Asia’s final frontier, today called Myanmar, remains largely unchanged. The plains of Bagan still glitter with thousands of golden stupas, most men wear skirt-like longyi and villages among the pine forests of the Shan Hills can still be accessed only on horseback.

However, elections in late 2015 saw the opposition National League for Democracy make a historic win, under Nobel Laureate leader Aung San Suu Kyi. The fledgling democracy will now look to put an end to decades of brutal military dictatorship and economic sanctions.

Importantly for travellers, the shift in the political landscape means there’s a revised stance on tourism, with visitors now being actively encouraged to travel to the country.

For a complete taste of this beguiling land, try Abercrombie & Kent’s new tour that includes a day spent exploring the capital, Yangon, a three-night cruise on the Irrawaddy River between Bagan and Mandalay onboard the luxurious Sanctuary Ananda, and a threeday trek through Putao, one of the most remote corners, where water buffalo wade through the rice paddies in the shadow of the imposing Himalaya mountains.

The package costs $4,975pp for ten nights, including international flights and transfers. abercrombiekent.co.uk

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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Arrivals

TRAVEL

HAPPY 50TH BOTSWANA Independence was granted to Botswana half a century ago and 2016 marks a year of celebration in this safari heartland. March is one of the best times to visit one of the country’s most stellar attractions, the Okavango Delta, when 15,000 square kilometres of the Kalahari Desert becomes a lush watering hole thanks to floodwater flowing down from the Angolan Highlands. This oasis of papyrus swamps and flood plains nurtures a dazzling array of wildlife. Expert Africa has an eight-day Aardwolf Safari over land and water (in mokoro canoes), which not only includes spotting these striped mammals but also elephants, giraffes, lions, birds and possibly a rhino or cheetah. From $4,465pp, including flights, accommodation, meals and activities. expertafrica.com

news

PARK AND RIDE World Expeditions is marking the centenary of America’s National Park Service with a new tour, launching in March. Deserts and Canyons of the Southwest takes in the red rocks of Arches, Bryce’s hoodoos and the Grand Canyon – plus Vegas, baby!

14-day tour, including accommodation, some meals and guides (excludes flights), $2,199pp. worldexpeditions.com

GREEN AND

festive

LAND

As the bleak winter weather loosens its grip in March, the English countryside springs to life with bizarre ancient celebrations. From 15-21 February, there’s York’s Jorvik Viking Festival, a celebration of the city’s Viking heritage that includes Norse music, warriors and Beowulf by candlelight. Further south at Ashbourne on the edge of the Peak District, it’s the annual Royal Shrovetide Football Match. Hundreds join the crazed bundle taking shots at goals three miles apart. In the past it has been started by everyone from local lords, to Brian Clough and Prince Charles. For a more serene day out, make a beeline for the Lake District, which plays host to Words by the Water, 4-13 March, a literary event on the shores of Derwentwater.

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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

SADDLE UP FOR A LOOK AT LAOS

A fabulous way to see little-known areas of this landlocked Southeast Asian country is by bicycle. Spice Roads has a new Hidden Laos tour that guides you through the foothills of the country’s highest peak into the Xaysomboun Province, only recently opened to tourists by the authorities. You’ll also see small villages along the Mekong valley, the mysterious Plain of Jars, and the dramatic cliffs of Vang Vieng.

Eight days, including accommodation and most meals (excludes flights), 1,845pp. spiceroads.com

Photos: Peak District National Park Authority; Sarah Coghill; worldexpeditions.com; Durban Experience Tourist Board; Tenerife Tourism Corporation Kristin Perers

Travel

Roux

EN

TO MALAYSIA

In February, Malaysia will be jetting in a slice of Bray’s Michelin magic when The Waterside Inn – holder of three stars for over 30 years – takes up a residency at The Datai, a luxury island resort on the Andaman coast. Michele Roux and three members of his trusted staff will host a series of three five-course dinners, accompanied by the wine selections of Pierre Bat, renowned sommelier at Bordeaux’s Maison Veyret Latour. It naturally promises to be a gastronomic masterclass – but in addition, Roux will be hosting cookery lessons of his own. Seven nights B&B, including flights, transfers, Michele Roux masterclass and one dinner with matching wines, from $2,595pp. thedatai.com

Durban

in six stops

Rolling surf, vibrant markets and loaves stuffed with curry entice Ian Belcher to South Africa’s Natal coast

1

Warm water, consistent Indian Ocean waves and – stop shaking, nervous swimmers – shark nets, make Durban a gnarlatious (surf speak for splendid) spot to learn to surf. Add in the ridiculously generous exchange rate at the moment and, dude, it’s a no-brainer. learn2surf.co.za

2

Kebabs, hamburgers? Pah! The street food of choice is Durban’s signature bunny chow, a hollowed-out half bread loaf overflowing with mutton, chicken or prawn curry (or vegetables if you head to Patel’s Vegetarian Refreshment Room on Dr Yusuf Dadoo Street). quarterbunny.co.za

3

Head just north of the city to Umhlanga Rocks and retro haven The Oyster Box. With its distinctive parasols and loungers matching the famous red-and-white lighthouse, the hotel is bathed in dazzling ocean light and serves a mean sundowner cocktail. oysterboxhotel.com

GOÛT DE FRANCE 1,500 chefs, 1,500 menus, 150 embassies on 5 continents... 1 dinner to celebrate French cuisine worldwide On Thursday, 21 March 2016 more than 1,500 restaurants all around the world will offer dinner to celebrate France’s gastronomy by inviting everyone to share a “French meal”. Inspired by the founding father of French gastronomy Auguste Escoffier, who launched the “Dîners d’Épicure” offering the same menu, on the same day, in cities across the world in 1912, the initiative is being organized by world famous three-Michelin starred chef Alain Ducasse and the French Ministry of Foreign affairs.

Almost 40 restaurants from the Middle East are taking part including: Plums, Ritz Carlton in Bahrain, STAY by Yannick Alléno, One & Only The Palm, the Restaurant, Chedi in Muscat, to name but a few. To find your nearest participating restaurant visit www.good-france.com

4

Markets don’t get much more eclectic than Victoria Street, with its purple minarets like a maharaja’s palace. In air thick with incense, you’ll find the early 20th-century stalls, rebuilt after a 1970s fire, filled with African jewellery alongside food, notably ocean-fresh fish. indianmarket.co.za

5

For a 360-degree panorama of the city and sub-tropical coast, catch the SkyCar. In just two minutes it slides up the arch above Moses Mabhida Stadium, where you can step onto the 106m-high viewing platform, and exclaim: ‘Pity Wembley hasn’t thought of this.’ mmstadium.com

6

Think modern Mediterranean rather than traditional African at slick contemporary 9th Avenue Bistro in the suburb of Morningside.

Its award-winning menu includes the likes of tempura crayfish and baby lango tails, potato and duck gateau, and loin of wildebeest with pearl barley, porcini and pennywort. 9thavenuebistro.co.za FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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Arrivals

HOTELS

news

Words by Blossom Green

Hotel

An air of retro-chic welcomes visitors to The Old Clare Hotel in Sydney’s on-the-up Chippendale area. It’s the first Australian launch for the Unlisted Collection and was four years in the making by a team from Tonkin Zulaikha Greer architects. It interconnects two heritage-listed buildings on Kensington Street and careful attention has been paid to ensure that the aesthetics of The Clare Hotel pub and Carlton & United Breweries Administration Building are evident in the 62 new guestrooms – curved, brick walls have been exposed and repurposed timber panels frame original windows. Interiors are decked out with Fifties-style furniture, fresh flowers and hand-selected quirks like dentists’ chairs and custommade lamps fashioned from vintage machinery. The Clare Bar is a nod to the building’s previous incarnation as a watering hole for bohos and intellectuals and in keeping with the ethos of the space, the two restaurants are as much about design as they are food. Automata celebrates a seasonal menu in an industrial-rustic setting – think concrete floors and bleached furnishings with plates of blue mackerel, red onion and kombu butter. Former Noma chef Sam Miller runs the other one, Silvereye, bringing the trend for fermenting, curing and smoking. Later this year, the latest feather in Jason Atherton’s cap and the hotel’s third restaurant, Kensington Street Social, will open its doors. theoldclarehotel.com.au

OPENINGS IN…AUSTRALIA

10

Top: Six Senses’ dramatic position on Samui Island.

Middle: past meets present at The Old Clare Hotel, Sydney.

Bottom: Pulitzer Amsterdam deserves its own award

NETHERLANDS

Fresh from its own holistic makeover, Six Senses Samui sixsenses.com now has bathrooms with floor-to-ceiling windows, so guests can look out over the tropical gardens of Samui Island, Thailand. More of its private villas have their own pools, and the library has suspended beds for curling up with a good book. Los Cabos Beach Resort & Spa marriott.co.uk lies at the tip of the Baja California peninsula on Mexico’s Pacific coast. Designed

by Jim Olson, there are 299 bedrooms, six pools, and an open-air lobby with views out across the water. The spa also has a ‘sweat lodge’ in the style of the ancient Aztecs. Back in Europe, Pulitzer Amsterdam pulitzeramsterdam.com has seen a significant overhaul. Close to Dam Square and the flower market, it’s a collection of 25 gabled canal-side traders’ houses dating from the 1600s.

The luxe new look pulls together modern Dutch design with rich antiques. Four new suites have private entrances, and are themed around the lives of local residents. After a day cycling along the city’s cobbled streets, new restaurant, Jansz, will be a welcome resting point come the evening.

MEXICO

THAILAND

Ideally located in Bahrain’s central business and commercial district.

For reservations, please call:

+973 6631 0032

2016 M

or email us at: reservationsbse@swiss-belhotel.com

A

G

A

Z

I

N

E

Best 4 Star Hotel

Building 1012, Road 2813, Block 428 Seef District, Kingdom of Bahrain

www.swiss-belhotel.com

Enigma variations

DUBAI

THE DESTINATION

T

his revolutionary new restaurant at Palazzo Versace Dubai is game changing in a lot of ways. Not only is it novel in that it doesn’t have a resident chef, but rather, a roster of superstar chefs who host ‘pop-up’ restaurants in three-month cycles, but the dining experience is also never-seen-before in the region – if the launch concept, Vanguard, is anything to go by. The setting of the restaurant is modern and minimalist, offering a blank canvas for each restaurant concept to come to life. Spanish three Michelin star chef Quique Dacosta (he runs his eponymous restaurant in Spain is on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant list) brings his ultracreative cuisine to Dubai in a multi-sensory experience, combining

sound, smell, texture, temperature, and of course taste. With a definite playfulness injected into the interactive experience, Dacosta tells a story with each course – Enigma is described as ‘the untold story’ after all – whether it is by transporting you to a foggy forest from your childhood years, or giving his favourite movie, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, a culinary reimagining. None of the theatrics sacrifice taste however, with each intricate dish being packed with flavour, yet still refreshingly light. This restaurant is fresh in every sense of the word, and a must-try for foodies.

Vanguard is open for dinner until April 12, prices start from $204pp, and ‘tickets’ can be booked online at enigmadxb.com.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

Words by Sudeshna Ghosh

DUBAI

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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

15

“To the winners my congratulations, to the finalists well done and if at first you don’t succeed, try, try again – because you will get better and better with every day.”

- Paul Bocuse

CATEGORIES

• HOTEL OF THE YEAR • RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR • CHEF OF THE YEAR • BREAKTHROUGH CHEF OF THE YEAR • INTERNATIONAL CHEF OF THE YEAR • OUTSTANDING CONTRIBUTION TO THE INDUSTRY

• THE CARÊME AWARD • 5 STAR HOTEL • RESORT HOTEL • CITY HOTEL • DESTINATION HOTEL • WEEKEND-DESTINATION HOTEL • 4 STAR HOTEL We called and you answered in your hundreds of thousands to help us choose the best of the best for the Food and Travel GCC Tourism Awards. So a big thank you to all those who helped make it happen. From the initial call for nominations back in February to the gala awards ceremony that was held at the Ritz-Carlton on

29th February 2016, it was a journey of epic proportions.

The results were closer than we could ever have imagined and our expert panel once again had a hard time in

picking the winners in some categories. The gala dinner was a packed affair with a stunning five-course meal from executive chef Richard Glaze and his amazing team at the Ritz-Carlton Bahrain, and a special thanks to Sheikh Khaled Bin Humood Al Khalifa, CEO of the Bahrain Tourism & Exhibition Authority for his support and vision

throughout the year. Read on to see who won the coveted Food and Travel gongs…

- Salah Alhaiki, Publisher

• MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT • JAPANESE RESTAURANT • TIMELESS CLASSIC ASIAN • TIMELESS CLASSIC INTERNATIONAL • CASUAL CHIC • ALL DAY CASUAL • INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT • FRENCH RESTAURANT • STEAKHOUSE & GRILL • MEDITERRANEAN • INDIAN • THAI • SOUTH AMERICAN • SPANISH • ITALIAN • NEWCOMER • ASIAN FUSION • CHINESE • ONE TO WATCH • SERVICE AWARD • FOOD FESTIVAL

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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

HOTEL OF THE YEAR A worthy winner in a very close run race

St Regis Doha Situated by the seafront at Doha’s West Bay, the St Regis hotel overlooks the glorious Pearl Island. Its discreet opulence spills over the 336 guest rooms and suites within. With views of the Arabian Gulf and hands-on service, chances are you will want to stay indoors. When you feel like stepping outside your comfortable room, take a dip in the Olympic-sized pool or walk to the beach and relax in one of the private cabanas.

To satiate your appetite, sample the dazzling cuisine served at Gordon Ramsey’s restaurants, enjoy the delights of the Orient at Hakkasan or head to Oyster Bay & Bar if you fancy seafood. stregisdoha.com

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR This restaurant won all the plaudits

Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire InterContinental Dubai Festival City

The luxuriousness and exclusivity of Reflets Par Pierre Gagnaire is only matched by culinary stalwart Pierre Gagnaire’s exquisite creations. The menu displays his gastronomic skills merging a multitude of ingredients with finesse and uncompromising depth of flavour.

Using molecular gastronomy he creates tiny globules of chicken mousse with Perigeux sauce, and cuttlefish laced with matcha green tea and pomegranate.

The dining area is drenched in shades of pink: chair cushions, floor carpet and crystal chandeliers. All contrasted by beige window shades and dark wood furniture. The knowledgeable and attentive servers worked in unison like a well-oiled machine. ihg.com +97147011111 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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CHEF OF THE YEAR We honour a chef who’s passion and dedication shines through. Step forward the man of the moment...

Francois Xavier Simon

Executive Chef, Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire InterContinental Dubai Festival City The panel spent a great deal of time debating, what was another very close call and probably one of the most difficult decision of the awards.

Chef Francois’ evident passion and unbridled talents have helped to keep Pierre Gagnaire’s exceptional restaurant at the head of a very talented pack. We look forward to seeing more from this exceptional young chef.

BREAKTHROUGH CHEF OF THE YEAR This young Swedish chef is reaping plaudits for his innovation at Jean-Georges, bringing his unique skills to the fore

Daniel Everts

Jean-Georges Dubai Hailing from Stockholm Sweden, Daniel Everts culinary calling began at the tender age of only 15 tears of age when he went to work at Michelin starred, Lejontornet. From here he moved to the UK to work for 3 Michelin starred Gordon Ramsey, before returning to Stockholm where he became the head chef of ten years at the acclaimed Fredsgatan 12.

It was here Daniel met Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who later invited him to be the Chef De Cuisine at his first UAE restaurant, Jean Georges Dubai.

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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

INTERNATIONAL CHEF OF THE YEAR What more can we say about this legend of French cuisine ...

Alain Ducasse

Multi Michelin starred Chef The only chef whose restaurants are enveloped by a constellation of Michelin stars (19 if you’re looking for a number), Alain Ducasse is truly a master of gastronomy. When he isn’t managing over 24 restaurants in eight countries, he’s penning cookery books and passing on his culinary knowledge to aspiring chefs. Last year, Ducasse and his team of chefs even made a foray into space… creating gourmet meals for the International Space Station.

OUTSTANDING CONTRIBUTION TO THE INDUSTRY The unashamed champion of great British Food...

Gary Rhodes OBE

Executive Chef Rhodes W1 Grosvenor House Hotel Dubai Gary Rhodes has had a prolific 35-year career as a chef, restaurateur, author and TV show presenter and of course a collection of Michelin Stars too. An ambassador for British cuisine, Rhodes runs numerous restaurants across the world, including restaurants at The Grosvenor House Hotel, Le Royal Meridian Hotel, in Dubai. He has cooked for the late Princess Diana, Tom Hanks, the Jordan Formula One team, at Le Mans 24 Hours, the Orient Express, and even Manchester United. He has also received the distinguished OBE (Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire) for his contribution to the hospitality industry.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

19

THE CARÊME AWARD The deserved winner of this important award for sustained consistency, and excellence; the back-bone of the industry ...

Maharaja by Vineet

Mövenpick Al Khobar, Saudi Arabia Maharaja by Vineet at Mövenpick Al Khobar will make you feel like a modern-day Maharaja experiencing an indulgent royal feast. To ensure the ambiance transports you to a bygone era, the restaurant has been designed like a durbar of the Maharajas of yore. Arched pillars opulent chandeliers, delicate drapes and crystal glassware, the décor draws inspiration from the intricate architecture of the inimitable Taj Mahal. Michelin-starred Chef Vineet Bhatia’s fusion Indian menu is just as grand, where you can expect to sample items like gobi manchurian with caramelized seafood, asparagus-carrot koftas or chocolate samosas and such. movenpick.com +966 13 898 4999

5 STAR HOTEL It just keeps winning …

5 STAR HOTEL THE FINALISTS

• St Regis Doha • Raffles Dubai • Emirates Palace Abu Dhabi • Four Seasons Bahrain Bay • The Ritz-Carlton Riyadh

20

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

Four Seasons Bahrain Bay An architectural icon on its own exclusive island, Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay towers over Manama. This unique 68-storey tower is a city resort hotel; the 273 guest rooms and suites enjoy seven stunning restaurants and lounges, including outlets from world-renowned chef Wolfgang Puck, a spa with 17 treatment rooms and five swimming experiences. – Enjoy views of the Arabian Gulf and the Manama skyline. fourseasons.com

RESORT HOTEL Marsa Malaz Kempinski The Pearl Doha

RESORT HOTEL THE FINALISTS

• Waldorf Astoria RAK • Marsa Malaz Kempinski Doha • Rosewood Abu Dhabi • Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf at Madinat Jumeirah Dubai

The choice for best Resort Hotel was as close as ever in this very tight field, with once again almost nothing between the top two contenders; but after much measured consideration and the panel unanimously agreed upon the Marsa Malaz Kempinski.

Located on its own private island, Marsa Malaz Kempinski is a tribute to the luxury of days gone by, an architectural showpiece that reflects the traditional warmth of its Arabic heritage combined with the classical grace of European style, creating a hotel of true palatial grandeur and unabashed opulent luxury. So it comes a no surprise that the Marsa Malaz has some of the finest dining in Qatar; including the Iberian cuisine in El Faro, the Levantine culinary treasures of Sufra, the taste of South America at Toro, Toro, the Asian delicacies at Nozomi or the stylish tradition of classic Italian cuisine at world famous Antica Pesa to name but a few of the fine dining establishment available at this haven of luxury.

Kempinski.com

CITY HOTEL

CITY HOTEL THE FINALISTS

• JW Marriot Marquis Dubai • Marriott Marquis City Centre Doha • Burj Rafal Hotel Kempinski • Jumeirah at Etihad Towers

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai

Located in the heart of Dubai’s Business Bay, the JW Marriott Marquis is the world’s tallest hotel at a dizzying height of 1,165.84 feet. Its 1,600 spacious rooms and suites stay true to the phrase ‘room with a view’ as they overlook the Arabian Gulf offering breath-taking views of the cityscape. Indulge in some gourmet Indian food at Rang Mahal by Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar or try the steaks at Prime 68, located on the 68th floor. Vault, the hotel’s 71st floor bar mixes great cocktails that you can pair with a cigar whilst taking in the unparalleled view. The in-house spa also offers ancient Hammam treatments aside from marbled bathrooms and lavish rain showers. marriott.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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DESTINATION HOTEL

Ritz-Carlton

DESTINATION HOTEL THE FINALISTS

• The W Doha • Armani Hotel Dubai • Waldorf Astoria Jeddah – Qasr Al Sharq • Ritz-Carlton Bahrain

Bahrain

With its own exclusive white sand beach set along turquoise waters and its own marina, the Ritz-Carlton makes for a picturesque getaway. Nestled between Manama Bay and the city centre, the hotel’s expansive villas come equipped with a large terrace, private infinity pools and the requisite 24-hour butler service. It is also a stone’s throw away from Al Seef District’s chic shopping malls, for shopaholics who need a break from the sun and sand. The variety of cuisines available will satiate your every craving; be it Arabic, Mediterranean, Thai or Indian. Fair warning though, you may never want to leave. ritzcarlton.com

WEEKEND DESTINATION HOTEL

WEEKEND DESTINATION HOTEL THE FINALISTS

• The H Dubai • Alila Jabal Akhdar Oman • Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi • The Chedi Muscat

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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

The H Hotel

Dubai

The H Hotel is un-missable as the 33-floor blue glass and jura marble building almost resembles an ‘H’. The decor of the large rooms is dominated for wooden accents interspersed with muted tones of chrome, maroon and deep blue. Spend the day at Quantum, an open-air poolside lounge, and you may still want more. The Diademas Cigar Lounge houses an expansive collection of Cuban cigars, while Californian Bistro Delphine’s is great for a leisurely brunch that would appease even the Hollywood elite. h-hotel.com

4 STAR HOTEL Swiss-Belhotel Seef

4 STAR HOTEL THE FINALISTS

• Swiss-Belhotel Seef Bahrain • Amari Doha • Radisson Blu Abu Dhabi Yas Island • Hilton Garden Inn Riyadh Olaya

Still only in its first year yet this new kid on the block has swiftly collected a loyal following, including the members of the panel having already won the accolade of Best 4 Hotel in Bahrain just a few months ago, a real testament to Herve Peyre and his team.

Swiss-Belhotel Seef provides a high standard of service, and is located in Bahrain’s central business and commercial district; only a 20 minute drive from Bahrain International Airport and ideally convenient for both Seef and Bahrain City Centre Mall. The hotel has guest rooms and public areas boasting breathtaking panoramic ocean and city views; a wide range of facilities, including large guest rooms and suites, a fully equipped gymnasium and pool area, as well as extensive banquet and specialty dining venues. The Swiss-Belhotel provides a truly welcoming environment for both business and leisure travellers. swiss-belhotel.com

MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT

MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

• Tuğra – Burj Rafal Hotel Kempinski Riyadh • Li Beirut – Jumeirah at Etihad Towers Abu Dhabi • Al Nafoorah – Jumeirah Zabeel Saray Dubai • Marjan – Waldorf Astoria RAK

Tuğra

Burj Rafal Hotel Kempinski Riyadh Named after the calligraphic seal of the era’s Ottoman sultans, Tuğra features one-of-a-kind exclusive Ottoman cuisine. Mezze and dolma platters, seafood casseroles, vegetable moussaka, homemade baklavas and more, cover the extensive menu. Burj Rafal Kempinski Riyadh’s only fine dining restaurant, Tuğra interiors are dominated by red velvet armchairs and flowing satin drapes to give it that regal touch. kempinski.com +966 115117777 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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JAPANESE RESTAURANT

JAPANESE RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

• Nozomi – Riyadh • Meisei – Adliya, Bahrain • Nobu – Four Seasons Doha • OKKU – The H Dubai

Nozomi Riyadh Based on a sharing concept, the menu for Nozomi reworks traditional Japanese cuisine for an international audience. Run by restaurateur extraordinaire Marios George, this is the sister restaurant the original in London and recently opened branch in Doha. The kitchen is split between three areas; the Robata Grill, sushi Bar and the hot kitchen. Sample signature dishes like Wagyu beef tataki, seared and thinly sliced Striploin, served with micro leaves, truffle shaves and ginger dressing; Chilean sea bass, marinated in spicy miso and baked on cedar wood; and black cod tempura maki, miso marinated cod, rolled and deep-fried with green chilli and spring onion. nozomisaudi.com +966 11 415 22 13

TIMELESS CLASSIC ASIAN

TIMELESS CLASSIC ASIAN THE FINALISTS

• Rang Mahal – JW Marriott Marquis Dubai • Nobu Dubai – Atlantis the Palm Jumeirah Dubai • Zheng He’s – Madinat Jumeirah Dubai • Hakkasan Abu Dhabi – Emirates Towers Abu Dhabi

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Rang Mahal

JW Marriott Marquis, Dubai Bathed in red and orange hues, Rang Mahal—located in the world’s tallest hotel, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai—truly personifies its name. Colourful hand-painted murals, monolithic pillars and low lighting dominate the interior design. Michelinstarred chef Atul Kochhar’s reinterpretation of Indian cuisine is a thrill for the senses.

Some of the dishes that stand out in his menu are Teen Tarike Kee Aloo Tikkia, a spin on Indian street food; Zafrani Rubiyan, saffron-garlic butter coriander shrimps; Nihari Khaas, a traditional slow cooked aromatic lamb stew; and Murgh Dum Biryani, an Awadhi style aromatic chicken masala. jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com +97144143000

TIMELESS CLASSIC INTERNATIONAL

TIMELESS CLASSIC INTERNATIONAL THE FINALISTS

• The Ivy Dubai • The Rib Room – Jumeirah Emirates Towers Dubai • Marco Pierre White Steakhouse & Grill – Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Abu Dhabi • BICE – Hilton Dubai Jumeirah Resort

The Ivy Dubai

The Boulevard, Jumeirah Emirates Towers Dubai Deep olive green leather banquettes, dark wooden panelling, art-deco chintz stained glass and white linen tablecloths—The Ivy Dubai resonates with impeccably classic British décor. Similar in essence to its English counterpart in London, the brasserie-style menu melds British and international flavours to offer favourites like shepherd’s pie together with dishes such as Scandinavian iced berries with hot white chocolate sauce. The lounge comes with the added bonus of live music. theivydubai.ae +97143198767

CASUAL CHIC

CASUAL CHIC THE FINALISTS

• Delphine – The H Dubai • Ipanema – Marriott Marquis City Centre Doha • Juniper – Alila Jabal Al Akhdar Oman • Armani| Deli – Armani Dubai

Delphine Restaurant & Bar The H-Hotel Dubai

Located in the H-Hotel, the Delphine Restaurant & Bar captures the laid-back attitude of the West Coast, presented with a warm and personalized service, reflecting the best of Hollywood’s casual chic style, a haven for every A-lister.

Distinct dining, bar and lounge areas set with luxurious velvet furnishings, art deco lighting, Italian marble and a deft Arabesque touch set this Californian Bistro apart.

Enjoy the raw bar, grape and cheese evenings, and the Hollywood Brunch, with its live swing band. delphinedubai.com +97145018623 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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ALL DAY CASUAL

Villa Mama’s

ALL DAY CASUAL THE FINALISTS

• Fortnum & Mason – Dubai • Villa Mama’s – Saar, Bahrain • Soleil – Rosewood Jeddah • Azure – Waldorf Astoria RAK

Saar, Bahrain

Villa Mama’s in Saar is possibly one of the busiest restaurants in Bahrain; the homely disposition of the restaurant takes you on a journey to the Mediterranean, whether it be the food, décor, presentation or friendly service. Stepping inside Villa Mama’s you are overtaken with its unpretentious feel, entering through its cobblestone path into a warm and cosy setting. The garden is lush and pleasing to the eye, with a plot of land at the back to grow organic herbs that go straight to the kitchen and onto your plate. There is burst of flavour in every dish you try – the Villa Mama’s signature style of cooking is to infuse different ingredients and create a blend of complementary flavours in just one bite; every visit Villa Mama’s promises to please. villamamas.com +973 17 30 5031

INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT

INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

• Rhodes W1 – Grosvenor House Dubai • CUT by Wolfgang Puck – Four Seasons Bahrain Bay • Lexington Grill – Waldorf Astoria RAK • The Globe – Al Faisaliah Tower Riyadh 28

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Rhodes W1

Grosvenor House Hotel, Dubai At Rhodes W1, Michelin-starred chef Gary Rhodes takes you on a journey to rediscover Britain’s food heritage. With a menu inspired by Gary’s travels around the world, you can expect his gastronomic touch on British classics like shepherd’s pie and afternoon tea that features mini finger-sandwiches with quail’s egg mayonnaise, cress and cream cheese, hot buttered crumpets, fresh-baked scones with strawberry jam and clotted cream. The restaurant’s grass-covered walls, bright yellow couches, and lime green bar setup present the natural environs of the ubiquitous British countryside. rw1-dubai.com +97143176000

FRENCH RESTAURANT

FRENCH RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

Restaurant of the year – need we say more …

• Brasserie Angelique – Jumeirah at Etihad Towers Abu Dhabi • Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire – InterContinental Dubai Festival City • Jean-Georges Dining Room – Four Seasons Resort Dubai • IDAM by Alain Ducasse – Museum of Islamic Art Doha

Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire InterContinental Dubai Festival City

STEAKHOUSE & GRILL

STEAKHOUSE & GRILL THE FINALISTS

• Rib Room – Jumeirah Emirates Towers Dubai • Anvil Rooms – Doha • Marco Pierre White Steakhouse & Grill – Fairmont Bab Al Bahr Abu Dhabi • Plums – Ritz-Carlton Bahrain

Plums

Ritz-Carlton Bahrain Plums sophisticated design and inviting friendly atmosphere instantly draws you in. The dining room is a veritable feast of innovative artwork, from the overhanging lamps shaped like hats to the 3D-esque grey wall bearing series of jars. Created by award-winning Chef Yann Bernard Lejard, the menu presents an assortment of prime steaks and fresh seafood, together with unique items like a black baguette made of Chinese bamboo charcoal. ritzcarlton.com +973 1758 6499 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT

MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

• Gordon Ramsey at the St Regis Doha • Azzurro – Ritz-Carlton Riyadh • Market by Jean-Georges – The W Doha • At.Mosphere – Burj Khalifa Dubai

Gordon Ramsay St Regis Doha Gordon Ramsay Doha offers not just a meal but a complete Mediterranean dining experience by the Michelin-starred chef. Set inside an English manor-like house, its design draws inspiration from Mediterranean spots such as Sardinia, the South of France and Spain. The light and flavourful food is resplendent with dishes such as the zingy gazpacho and the beef Carpaccio topped with foie gras prepared with artisanal ingredients packed evoking an authentic Mediterranean feel. One can also opt for the seven-course tasting menu. gordonramsaydoha.com +97444460105

INDIAN RESTAURANT

INDIAN RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

• Maharajah by Vineet – Mövenpick Al Khobar • Signature by Sanjeev Kapoor – Melia Doha • Junoon – Shangri-La Dubai • Rang Mahal – JW Marriott Marquis Dubai

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Junoon Shangri-La Dubai Opened in 2014, Junoon’s Dubai outpost at the Shangri-La Hotel is the second iteration from its original Michelin-starred restaurant in New York City. The décor is a mix of intricately-carved arches, purple-coloured upholstery and wooden floors. One of the key elements is a brass wall sculpture depicting the ‘tree of life’ symbolically representing the palm trees of the region–a sculpture designed by architect Tarik Currimbhoy. Some of the highlights of Chef Vikas Khanna’s progressive Indian food menu are eggplant chaat, Nadru Kofta (lotus root dumpling with cottage cheese in fenugreek cream sauce), Murgh Saunfiyani (chicken thigh with cashew nut fennel curry and tawa fennel) and Chocolate Coconut (a coconut fennel mousse with a milk chocolate sandalwood parfait, basil and barfi). junoonrestaurants.com +97144052717

SOUTH AMERICAN RESTAURANT

SOUTH AMERICAN RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

• Toro Toro – Grosvenor House Dubai • Coya – Four Seasons Resort Dubai • The Act – Shangri-La Dubai • Asia de Cuba – Corniche Road St Regis Hotel Abu Dhabi

Toro Toro

Grosvenor House Hotel Dubai Housed in Grosvenor House, at the edge of Dubai Marina, Chef Richard Sandoval brings the culinary treasures of Latin America to this Dubai hotspot. The menu explodes with dishes such as beetroot ceviche, delicate slices of beetroot, with a zesty citrus lime, ginger and mango puree; beef filet anticucho skewers, marinated in aji panca a Peruvian red pepper, with a smoky, fruity aroma, served with a homemade potato-corn salad and aji salsa; and sea bass tartare, a fresh and vibrant dish with an infusion of mango, coconut and lime, salmon tiradito. torotoro-dubai.com +97143176000

THAI RESTAURANT

THAI RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

• Tong Thai – JW Marriott Marquis Dubai • Pad Thai – Madinat Jumeirah Dubai • Royal Thai – Gulf Hotel Bahrain • Benjarong – Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi

Tong Thai JW Marriott Marquis Dubai Witness the renowned Thai hospitality at Tong Thai that boasts mouth-watering food that doesn’t burn a hole in your pocket. Serving a delicious twist on conventional Thai dishes, they even ensure the ingredients are sourced from the region. Floorto-ceiling windows, clusters of dimly-lit lanterns that fall from above, and the yellow luminescence from the bar mark the restaurant’s interior design. Menu items like papaya and peanut salad, Wagyu steak with a ginger and soy dressing, and the classic tom yum will instantly transport you to the streets of Bangkok. jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com +97144143000 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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SPANISH RESTAURANT

SPANISH RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

• p&c by Sergi Arola – Shangri-La Abu Dhabi • La Vinoteca Barcelona – Adliya, Bahrain • El Faro – Marsa Malaz Kempinski Doha • Al Hambra – Al Qasr, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai

El Faro

Marsa Malaz Kempinski, The Pearl Doha El Faro presents an artistic, edgy side of Spain giving an urban touch to the cuisine.

The loft-like space comes alive with its Pablo Picasso-inspired graffiti brick wall, distressed wooden floors and the cubist ceiling. Lovingly prepared the traditional Spanish paella is transformed into a complex dish with intense flavours and layered textures amidst a melange of fresh calamari, mussels, prawns and lobster. Their crunchy golden brown Spanish churros paired with a bowl of rich chocolate sauce is also noteworthy. elfarodoha.com +974 4035 5555

ITALIAN RESTAURANT

ITALIAN RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

• Social by Heinz Beck – Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah • Vivaldi by Alfredo Russo – Sheraton Dubai Creek • Cipriani Yas Island – Yas Marina, Abu Dhabi • Antica Pesa – Marsa Malaz Kempinski 32

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

Vivaldi by Alfredo Russo Sheraton Dubai Creek

At Vivaldi, award-winning Chef Alfredo Russo brings you a little slice of Italy. The inviting décor, pristine white upholstery contrasted by accents of blue, and a wall of glass allowing you to enjoy undisturbed views of the Creek and the majestic Dubai skyline. Menu-wise you can expect to try a tagliere sharing platter (cured meats and a variety of cheese); agnolotti, square-shaped pasta parcels stuffed with braised beef in butter and sage sauce; and the requisite tiramisu. vivaldidubai.com +97142071717

ASIAN FUSION RESTAURANT

ASIAN FUSION RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

• Spice Market – The W Doha • Zuma – DIFC Dubai • Sontaya – The St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort, Abu Dhabi • TOMO by Takahashi – Raffles Dubai

Zuma DIFC Dubai Spread over two floors, Zuma serves izakaya-style Japanese sharing cuisine.

You can sample dishes like miso black cod, tako yaki (octopus ball pancakes), wagyu beef shabu-shabu, jumbo tiger prawn with yuzu pepper, and rib eye with wafu sauce and garlic crisps. Like a conventional Japanese restaurant, there is a sushi and robata counter where chefs sculpt sashimi over ice and a variety of grilled fish, meat and vegetables. Guests are encouraged to tour the restaurant’s grape cellars, featuring an extensive collection of some of Europe’s finest, with the in-house sommelier to complement their meals. The restaurant’s design–created

by Tokyo-based Noriyoshi Muramatsu–encompasses a balance between the six elements represented in the hand-carved granite counters, salvaged-steel walls and spectacular bamboo sculptures that define the space. zumarestaurant.com +971 4 425 5660

CHINESE RESTAURANT

CHINESE RESTAURANT THE FINALISTS

• Zheng He’s – Madinat Jumeirah Dubai • Hakkasan – The St Regis Doha • China Mood – Al Bustan Palace Oman • re Asian by Wolfgang Puck – Four Seasons Bahrain Bay • Hong – Ritz Carlton Riyadh

Hakkasan The St Regis Doha Multi-Michelin-Star restaurant chain Hakkasan opened in the St Regis, Doha in 2013 after successfully wooing diners at the outlets in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. The spacious restaurant comprises two private dining rooms as well as a Ling Ling lounge. Stark black, matte gold, dark brown and bright blue create a medley of shades for the chic decor. The bar menu resonates with quirky names of cocktails such as The Hakka and Smoky Negroni). But it’s Hakkasan’s conventional meets contemporary Cantonese cuisine that draws people in. Signature dishes such as the Roasted silver cod with Champagne and honey to the Crispy duck salad made famous at its other outlets, especially London, is just the same as it is at any other Hakkasan. hakkasan.com +974 444 60170 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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NEWCOMER

NEWCOMER THE FINALISTS

• Antica Pesa – Marsa Malaz Kempinski Doha • Nobu Doha – Four Seasons Doha • La Residence – Raffles Hotel Dubai • Rasoi by Vineet – Gulf Hotel Bahrain

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Antica Pesa

Marsa Malaz Kempinski, The Pearl Doha A regular haunt for celebrities such as Leonardo Di Caprio, Charlize Theron and Madonna, Antica Pesa is the third outpost of this famed establishment run by Francesco and Simone Panella. Home of authentic Italian fine dining, its menu is focused on maintaining the essence of classic Italian dishes and infusing them with new trends all the while incorporating local organic products. The walls of the restaurant are draped in artistic splendour with the works of artists such as Andy Warhol, De Chirico and Helmut Lang. Whether you take a seat inside or at the terrace, you can enjoy views of Qanat Quartier and the Arabian Gulf. kempinski.com +97440355300

ONE TO WATCH

Nobu Doha

Four Seasons Doha Situated at Four Seasons in Doha, this Nobu outlet is the largest in the chain. Offering some of the best Japanese food in the region, renowned chef Nobuyuki ‘Nobu’ Matsuhisa sets the benchmark for quality Japanese cuisine world-over. The menu at Doha is derived from his travels across the world, his time spent in South America and his classical training as a sushi chef in Tokyo. It displays a mix of Nobu’s signature dishes plus new creations infused with local ingredients. The uplifting decor of the three-level space is enhanced by views of the Arabian Gulf. noburestaurants.com +974 4494 8500

SERVICE AWARD Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah

Nestled amid the mountains and the sea, the Waldorf Astoria in Ras Al Khaimah presents an idyllic getaway from Dubai. Arabian architectural style dominates the interiors of the resort’s 346 rooms and suites. There are nine restaurants for guests to choose from including Japanese teppanyaki and sushi at UMI, succulent steaks and grills at award-winning steak house Lexington Grill, and homestyle Middle Eastern fare at Marjan. Golfers can spend hours at the 18-hole golf course that is known to host several regional golfing championships. Situated at the beachfront, the resort provides access to those keen on scuba diving and deep sea fishing. waldorfastoria3.hilton.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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FOOD FESTIVAL

FOOD FESTIVAL THE FINALISTS

• Q8 Food Festival – Kuwait • Dubai Food Festival • Qatar International Food Festival • Sharjah Food Festival

Dubai Food Festival With an engaging mix of fine dining, pop-up restaurants, food trucks and special events, Dubai’s annual food festival provides an opportunity to sample some of the best food in the region at affordable prices. Dubai has become a burgeoning culinary destination attracting some of the most talented chefs to showcase their creations to a multi-cultural audience. Among the many celebrity chefs participating in the festival this year are Masterchef Australia hosts Gary Mehigan and George Calombaris, ‘Queen of the Arabian Kitchen’ Chef Manal Al Alem and French Chef Manu Feildel. ‘Eat the World DXB’, a food and music celebration, will feature 15 food trucks, a curated market filled with artisanal wares, art installations and musical performances. One can refine their cooking skills with masterclasses from renowned chefs like Chef Heinz Beck or eat at Michelin-star restaurants such as Junoon as part of Restaurant Week. dubaifoodfestival.com 36

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THE INTERVIEW

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RHODES TO SUCCESS

Good guys can finish first, Sudeshna Ghosh finds out, in an up-close chat with celebrated Dubai-based British chef Gary Rhodes, ahead of the launch of his column series with Food & Travel Arabia.

A

s he strides up to me, Gary Rhodes is profusely apologetic for being just a couple of minutes late for our appointment (well, he is British after all!). He blames the delay on being caught up with a flurry of emails. “I have been inundated with emails today. I’m just tired of being harassed by all these constant emails, everybody wants something or the other from you, it all just takes up so much time! I miss the days when people used to sit and write letters to each other,” he says with an unmistakable hint of nostalgia. In fact, our entire conversation is tinged with a nostalgic colour (in part, probably because I share his sentiments), a sort of ‘bring back the good old days’ vibe, if you will.

It shouldn’t come as a surprise. Gary Rhodes did, after all, build his formidable reputation on the basis of nostalgia, with his championing of Britain’s culinary heritage. It is a testament of his contribution to the revival of British food and cooking, that he has recently been named an ambassador of Britain’s GREAT campaign (he was also awarded an OBE in 2006), which sees him travelling frequently, taking British flavours to the world. “I love it,” he says emphatically. “I don’t get paid for doing this, but I’m proud to be British, and I love telling the story of how exciting British food can be. It’s not just London you know, you can find such fantastic restaurants all over the country, with beautiful, fresh ingredients.”

Wholesome cooking It is his engagement with fresh produce from a very young age that fuelled a passion for cooking, in fact, for this chef who started out with helping his mum in the kitchen (as they were a single-parent family). “Back then, it was all about what was local and seasonal, so that comes naturally to me. It was just simple, hearty, home-cooked food, and everything had to be fresh,” he reminisces. “When I was 13, I wanted to make a pudding. I still remember, it was a lemon sponge pudding that I made, and everyone in my family really enjoyed it. As I watched everyone sat around the table tucking in, I decided that this is what I wanted to do – even though it wasn’t really looked upon as a real career then. It made me proud, that I was making people happy with my food.”

He has since enjoyed several other moments of pride, not least when he earned his restaurant at the Castle Hotel in Taunton Somerset its first Michelin star, when he was head chef, back in 1986. “It’s the culinary accolade every chef dreams of winning. I’m glad to say, the same success was found in other establishments as the years passed,” he says. “Without doubt I’d love to win another, but our priority is to simply make and keep our guests happy, providing food that excites their taste buds, and if a Michelin star comes with it, it’s something to be proud of.”

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THE INTERVIEW

He may not be at the helm of a Michelin starred restaurant at the moment, but the ones he does run are also acclaimed, with Rhodes W1 at Grosvenor House Dubai having recently won the Best International Restaurant award for the 2016 Food & Travel GCC Tourism Awards and a special award for his immeasurable Contribution to the Industry, two accolades he is extremely pleased about, as he feels “it makes all the hard work worthwhile and offers fresh inspiration to the kitchen and restaurant teams”.

Words by Sudeshna Ghosh Images Food and Travel

Food fashions He finds being based in Dubai not only convenient in terms of geography, due to his frequent travels eastwards thanks to the GREAT ambassadorship [his next trip is to Vietnam, which he is very much looking forward to], but also exciting. “Dubai is lively and it’s got a huge international variety of restaurants. It reminds me of London and New York in that sense. I think Dubai is just about five years behind these cities,” he says. “Because it’s all still fresh and quite new, there’s lots going on, and I think it will just get better and better. It’s an exciting time to be here. There’s endless great chefs that are coming over, so it’s just going to grow – and I like being part of that growing.”

He has cemented his role in keeping Dubai on par with the rest of the globe with constant updates of his restaurant concepts – Rhodes W1 which replaced Rhodes Mezzanine offers a trendy atmosphere that wouldn’t look out of place anywhere in the world (see the review on P41) and by making sure he stays on top of what is happening in other leading cities. “I always ensure I go out and eat at hot new restaurants when I’m in London. That’s the sort of thing I draw inspiration from – whether it’s ambience or style of food. That gives me a buzz,” he says.

And one of the trends he sees emerging globally is restaurants offering a unique experience. “You have to have something that has that wow factor,” he says. “It’s not just enough to have good food, but you have to have a beautiful room, entertainment, the whole package.”

Another unmistakable trend that seems to be taking over this region, and one that he’s tapped into as well, is that of more relaxed dining. “This industry has become, just like music and everything else, trend-driven. You have to move with the times,” he says. “At this moment in time, the fashion is saying – let’s keep 40

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it looser. So, we decided to loosen up a little bit, and introduce the sharing style of food. We’re still looking after our guests, but in a more relaxed manner.

“But without any shadow of a doubt, fine dining will never die. I love that, getting dressed up and having to go to a formal restaurant… it’s good old respect and good manners.”

There’s that nostalgia again. And that is something that clearly comes quite naturally to him – from holding out my chair for me, to politely greeting the staff at the hotel, he is a perfect gentleman through and through. You’ll find none of that agro-abusiveness that seemed to have become something of a trademark for celebrity chefs in the past decade or so (although thankfully, the appetite for that sort of entertainment seems to be on the wane) in him.

Ever the diplomat, he simply dismisses it saying “that’s not for me”, and that he enjoys a great camaraderie and respect with most of his colleagues. But if you ask him for his culinary heroes, he is unabashed in his admiration of the Roux brothers. “They changed the whole philosophy towards food in the UK, and that’s phenomenal,” he says. “Albert Roux is 80 and every now and then he still goes and does cookery demos. That’s what I want to be like, I’m not about to hang up the chef’s jacket any time soon.”

While he sees himself as a restaurateur as much as he is a chef, Gary has always been adventurous in terms of trying out new things – whether it’s his ongoing involvement with the Foremarke schools group to introduce wholesome eating in schools; or his newer collaboration with Vox Cinemas for ThEATre, a fine dining movie experience. He also cryptically hints at “new culinary ventures in the UK” in the pipeline.

“It gives me something else to get my teeth into,” he explains.

“With a restaurant, people have a certain expectation and that’s what you do. You don’t get a chance to show the general public the vast culinary repertoire beyond that.”

What these seemingly disparate projects have in common however, is simple, easy to eat, fresh and wholesome food made from scratch.

“My culinary style is being honest with food. I like to see new being born from the old. It might not look like art on a plate, but it has flavour and tells a story of where it was born,” he concludes.

“That’s the story I want to tell.” garyrhodes.com

Carême review

review

Rhodes W1 Rhodes Mezzanine was designed on a white palette, and so is Rhodes W1. But that is where the similarity between the two restaurant concepts – which reopened with a rebrand and lengthy refurbishment in 2014 - ends. In the quintessentially British Rhodes W1, splashes of lime green and yellow brighten up the natureinspired space, with a leafy wall greeting you at the entrance, and birds and butterflies being recurring themes - whether it’s in the murals or chandeliers. The spacious restaurant is divided into a bar area, which features high tables – perfect for an aperitif – and the dining section, with filigree-style white partitions creating intimate sub-spaces. There is a lovely outdoor terrace offering Dubai Marina views where the English garden vibe really comes to life.

But the changes aren’t just cosmetic. The atmosphere has changed too, from the brighter lighting, to the music, which is loud enough to create a trendy atmosphere, but not so loud that you can’t hear yourself think (as is often the case here). The distinct move towards a more casual experience is reiterated with the sharing-style menu that contains British favourites as well as some contemporary takes on the classics.

Everything on the menu sounds rather tempting, so it was hard to choose when I dined, but my dining partner and I went for the new potato salad, with broad beans, peas, mint yoghurt and soft quails eggs, as our first starter. The salad was slightly let down by the potatoes which weren’t as tasty as new potatoes can be (take it from a potato lover!), but the subtle minty, chive-y hum of the light dressing the dish was tossed in, did make up for it, while the topping of bacon shards made this a highly edible dish nonetheless.

For our other starter, we asked if the spinach gnocchi dumplings from the ‘large plates’ selection of the menu could be served as a smaller portion, and our request was obligingly met with. Served with a blue cheese sauce on the side, and with a pillowy, perfect gnocchi, the dish showed an assured lightness of touch; every mouthful felt satisfying.

For mains, I couldn’t resist the surf and turf dream, it was a medley of roasted meat, and grilled prawns with peas, served in a roasting pan. The proteins were doused in their flavoursome juices, and came with a chunky applesauce. Along with the caramelised pineapple cubes in the pan along with the meat, the applesauce FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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CARÉME REVIEW

Word by Sudeshna Ghosh mages by Grosvenor House & Food and Travel

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offered the perfect complement to the salty crackling, and bacon bits that garnished the dish. Hearty and comforting, there are few things more enjoyable on a cool winter evening!

My partner’s main course choice was a chicken Kiev, served on a bed of spinach and chestnut mushrooms. The juicy balloon of breaded, fried chicken, with a garlic and parsley butter oozing out as you cut through it, was packed with flavour. We’d also ordered sides of mashed potatoes and steamed green beans, which were both done to perfection.

While we were already too full to do justice to the dishes, soldier on we did, as the desserts here are legendary. I opted for the Baileys ice cream profiterole with white chocolate mascarpone cream, caramelised pecans, and chocolate sauce. And yes, it was every bit as decadent as it sounds! The slightly bitter Baileys flavour came clearly through in the ice cream, encased in a giant profiterole – sort of like a sweet burger – while the pecans added a nice textural counterbalance.

It would be practically criminal to not try the fried bread and butter pudding fingers – modernising bread and butter pudding is one of the dishes that catapulted Gary Rhodes into the stratosphere, after all – so we ordered that too. Served with fresh vanilla bean ice cream and date syrup, and infused with a date and white chocolate flavouring, it erred on the side of being a bit too soggy for my liking – somehow I expected the fried ‘soldiers’ to be crispier - and also a bit too sweet. But, it was still delicious, and we managed to polish off most of it.

A meal at Rhodes W1 definitely lives up to Gary’s promise of wholesome, hearty comfort food given a refined touch. Our main lesson learnt was that when they said sharing-style dishes, they weren’t joking. The portions, in line with the home-style feel of the menu, are generous, meaning sharing a starter and main each would probably be enough for most average appetites. And with the surprisingly affordable prices, that makes this an excellent value for money, yet stylish proposition.

Gary did hint at making a few changes to the menu and the style of service here, in the coming months, so here’s looking forward to an even more interesting experience.

RW1-dubai.com +971 4 317 6000 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

CHICORY

Identifying your strand of chicory can be almost as confusing as knowing how to eat it.

Clarissa Hyman decodes the vegetable that’s brought bitterness to Europe for centuries RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: LINDA TUBBY. PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: ANGELA DUKES 44

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CHICORY, TURKEY HAM AND PARMESAN GRATIN RECIPES ON PAGE RECIPES STARTSTART ON PAGE 119 119

Wit& wisdom Chicory is hugely popular in northern Italy, where many households eat it almost every day from autumn until nearly the end of spring.

Chicory is a liver cleanser that helps boost the immune system and keep energy levels high.

Chicory tea has a mild sedative and laxative effect.

The plant has at various times throughout history been regarded as a sacred embodiment of a Greek goddess; a symbol of fidelity; and a provider of magical powers, such as invisibility.

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C

hicory is not an easy vegetable to love. Unless you’re Belgian. Or Italian. It presents a taste challenge as well as a semantic one. Bitterness is not a quality the British particularly appreciate except when it comes to beer, but to a greater or lesser degree it is a common characteristic within the varied and overlapping chicory family. Yet the right amount of ‘bite’ can provoke the palate in a surprisingly addictive way.

Chicory, endive and escarole are terms often used interchangeably: confused? It’s hardly surprising. The best solution when identifying the type of chicory or endive to which you are referring would be to speak in Latin and have a degree in botany, but failing that you need to have a mental picture of the plant you intend to eat.

Frilly green chicory is a cultivated

perennial developed from the wild chicory plants starred with blue flowers that grow throughout much of Europe. It was used by the Greeks and Romans much as it is nowadays, as a vegetable and for salads, although larger and less bitter leaves have been developed over the years. It is called frisée or endive in French, can grow to a formidable size and has frizzy leaves that are pleasantly sweet with a distinct, though mild bitterness. They do have a rather coarse texture that one writer has compared to a Brillo pad, but a few handfuls work well in a mixed leaf salad or with crisp pancetta and goat’s cheese.

Close relatives are the relatively mild, redleaved radicchio group of which the Italian radicchio di Treviso is probably the oldest and best known variety, sought after for its large, loose, wine-red and white leaves.

They are pleasingly bitter, delicious dressed in olive oil, lemon juice and garlic. The other main centers of production are Castelfranco in the Veneto and also Verona. Roundheaded radicchio that look similar to red cabbages have snugly folded leaves and a bittersweet flavour. All are strikingly beautiful plants with leaf colours that can range from bronze to red and pink.

It doesn’t stop there because there are further subdivisions between broad and narrow-leaved varieties, curly and non-curly leaves, heading, semi-heading and nonheading – all of which could put yours in a spin. One of the main varieties, the Batavian endive or escarole is a little less bitter than curly endive and has nicely chewy emerald-green leaves and a well-rounded flavour. The raw bitterness of all varieties can be offset in salads by things such as red peppers, eggs and bacon or a creamy dressing. Citrus is also a good counterfoil, as is strong cheese. Try them also as a foil to rich meat dishes.

There is also another variety worth knowing about, Catalogna: sometimes known as asparagus chicory, with long white stalks and narrow leaves, not dissimilar to wild young dandelion leaves. In Rome, it is called puntarelle and

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Wit&wisdom

Chicory and endives provide massive amounts of betacarotene, which is essential for maintaining good vision and healthy skin.

The hearts of Belgian chicory are called chicons and you will find them sold without their outer leaves.

Crushed chicory leaves were at one time used as a poultice in order to treat inflammations of the skin.

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is a sought-after local speciality.

The large roots of some varieties of green chicory have another culinary use.

Unexpectedly, perhaps, they can be ground and roasted to use as a coffee substitute – a practice that developed during the 18th century in Holland when coffee was newly fashionable and, as a consequence, very expensive. Special kinds were bred in order to satisfy the demand despite the fact that it does not taste like coffee and does not contain any caffeine.

Adulteration of coffee was to become widespread and in Britain the use of chicory in coffee was banned in 1832 – only to be allowed once more eight years later after

protests by those who liked chicory in their coffee. However, it was stated that this must be marked on the label.

It is still possible to find coffee mixed with chicory in France and Spain, as well as in some of the southern states of America.

It’s a bit of an acquired taste, but a milky café au lait made with chicory coffee is one of the great experiences of a visit to New Orleans, especially when sipped alongside freshly fried beignets at the legendary Café Du Monde. If you’re not sure, just think of it as an alternative beverage.

Blanched, creamy white, torpedo-shaped plants with tight hearts are correctly known as French/Belgian endives or witloof, although in Britain they are often called chicory. The crunchy, spear-shaped leaves may be tipped with yellow-green or red.

Both types are sweet and nutty but have a slightly bitter bite. Use the fleshy leaves to scoop up dips or make firm little sailboats which can carry savoury canapé fillings such as crab and chilli.

Cooking witloof brings a surprising transformation. Once plunged into boiling water and blanched, the wilted bulbs become a touch chewy, a touch succulent and a whole lot sensuous. When braised in butter and a little sugar for a tart, they gain a sweet, caramelised edge. One of the best-known cooked dishes is endives au jambon: parboiled witloof wrapped in ham, covered in Gruyère cheese-laced mornay sauce and baked.

A classic Italian recipe for radicchio is to grill the trimmed and halved plants, then top with cheese and prosciutto and grill briefly again until the cheese melts and bubbles.

Although chicory and endive can be eaten throughout the year, they do offer some fresh, crisp greenery in the winter months, and will store well in the fridge for a week or two. When buying, look for tightly packed firm heads with no browned edges or browning at the cut end.

Call it what you will, chicory and endive can be like life: both bitter and sweet.

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Trading TRADING PLACES GOURMET TRAVELLER

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An Indian Ocean outcrop, Zanzibar offers a colourful clash of African, Indian and Middle Eastern cultures. Its brilliant white-sand beaches, famous spices and fish diet are matched only by islanders’ warm welcome, says Michael Raffael PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH COGHILL

At sunrise, local women wade out to harvest the highly prized seaweed 50

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S

ix sixteen, sunset. Pot-bellied sail billowing, a dhow glides past Zanzibar’s Park Hyatt terrace. It’s a magic moment – Sinbad the Sailor brought to life. Soon, though, the lateenrigged, shallow-drafted boats become a familiar sight – ferrying visitors to see Aldabra giant tortoises on Changuu island, or carrying divers out to the barrier reefs. Fishermen in coastal villages still use them for catching octopus and squid.

There are two Zanzibars: how people imagine the island to be, and the real deal. Much of the time they overlap each other; often they are at loggerheads. The Victorian adventurer Sir Richard Burton came here in the 1850s, when it belonged to the Sultanate of Oman. His first offshore impressions were of an ‘over-indolent’ place and the scents coming from the ‘celebrated clove-grounds’.

Landing at the port, he revised his opinion to ‘a clean show concealing uncleanness’. The town had no wharf and he saw

corpses floating in the water. Burton wrote: ‘The lowlands over which the fresh sea breeze plays are the only parts where the white stranger can land and live.’ His view has a prophetic ring to it.

Luxury hotels ringing the island are all parked opposite pristine beaches where the ‘breeze’ is strong enough to blow lettuce leaves out of a Caesar salad. Inland, the countryside is a tangle of tropical jungle and bush – hot, humid and sticky.

At resorts and lodges, staff welcome guests with friendly restraint.

Their greetings of ‘Jambo!’ and ‘Hello, how are you today?’ are courteous without a hint of servility. Catch them on their day off and their natural enthusiasm shines through. It’s Sunday afternoon and the football sides of two hotels are playing a local derby in Paje. At half-time, White Sand Luxury Villas is drawing 1-1 with Cristal Resort. Then, the Cristal team scores: cue mayhem, a pitch invasion, trumpet blowing and cheers in

Clockwise from top: schoolchildren enjoy a light breakfast at Lukmaan café in Stone Town; chef Ahamed Othaman of The Swahili House; beach crab; the lipstick plant

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Top to bottom: gazing towards the placid Indian Ocean from the shoreline at White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa; men and their boats throng the busy harbour at Mkokotoni fishing village on the northern coast

Travel information Zanzibar is a semi-autonomous Tanzanian archipelago. Currency is the Tanzanian shilling, and time is three hours ahead of GMT. The average high temperature in February is 32C and the average low 24C. GETTING THERE Flydubai Flies two times per week directly to Zanzibar from Dubai International Airport flydubai.com Qatar Airways Flies daily directly from Doha to Zanzibar qatarairways.com

GOURMET TRAVELLER ZANZIBAR

RESOURCES ZanTours provides local guides and drivers, offers internal flights, and

organises culinary tours and excursions to spice plantations. zantours.com FURTHER READING Zanzibar: City, Island and Coast by Sir Richard Francis Burton. A classic travel book, first published in 1872, and fascinating record of the island when it belonged to the Sultanate of Oman. Free to download at gutenberg.org CARBON COUNTING To offset your emissions visit climatecare.org where donations go towards supporting environmental projects around the world. Return flights from Dubai produce 1.08 tonnes CO2, meaning a cost to offset of $11.53.

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Left to right: daily life in Unesco-listed Stone Town; a graceful dhow in sail; spacious bedroom at Fumba Beach Lodge; fishermen have to spear their supper

‘Luxury hotels are parked opposite pristine beaches where the breeze is strong enough to blow lettuce out of a salad. Inland, the countryside is a tangle of tropical jungle and bush’ Swahili by assorted waiters, chefs, gardeners, beach attendants, maids, receptionists and a Maasai warrior.

Zanzibar’s nickname of the Spice Island teeters between myth and fact. Cloves are native to the Moluccas islands of eastern Indonesia, and Portuguese colonisers introduced them here during the 16th century. Omani Arabs expanded the plantations.

Along with trading in slaves and ivory, they formed a trinity of lucrative cash crops. After independence from the UK in 1963, its first president, Amani a Karume, handed out smallholdings to farmers wanting to plant a masala of spices.

Bolt on the influence of Indian traders who settled here, add some short-grain rice, and the result is Zanzibar pilau. It’s different from the subcontinent’s recipe, and not just in the choice of seasonings. After frying garlic and ginger in coconut oil in a terracotta pot, cooks stir in ground cinnamon and cloves before the rice. Next they add whole spices – green cardamoms and star anise, according to the cook’s personal touch. At the next stage, they start adding the stock, a third at a time, just like risotto. Finally, they put a lid on the pot to let the cooked rice steam. It’s soft-textured, fragrant and delicious.

At the White Sand Luxury Villas spa, Sussane the masseuse

mixes up a dessert spoon each of cinnamon and cloves with 50ml of oil to scrub her ‘victims’. The latter are warming, a touch abrasive and have a mild anaesthetic effect.

Before a Zanzibari wedding, she says, the engaged couple enjoy a unique massage and beauty-preparation programme, called Singo. For the groom-to-be, it’s a rub down with cloves from the neighbouring island of Pembe, made into balls with coconut cream that’s melted in hot water. For her, it’s a blend of sweet basil, jasmine, ylang-ylang and frangipane.

Zanzibar City, where Burton stayed, was an Arab warren of back-streets and bazaars. The Swahili name of its oldest part is Mji Mkongwe, which translates as ‘Old Town’. Unesco and guidebooks refer to the place as Stone Town – something of an irony as buildings here are actually made of coral. This absorbs moisture during the rainy season, and even a palace may crumble. The House of Wonders, once the Sultan’s residence and the first building in east Africa to have an elevator, has already started collapsing. Its massive ornate doorways, many with brass bosses, are more permanent.

Bonita Blom, manager of The Swahili House, a boutique hotel next to Darajani Market, says that the town doesn’t

Left to right: surrounded by lush plantings at White Sand luxury resort in Paje; on the inside, its bedrooms come with 21st-century refinement

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Below: fishing boat silhouetted against the gentle waters. Left to right: traditional door; passion fruit parfait at The Residence; White Sand’s chef Ajit; lamb at The Residence; its prestige room

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Where to stay Emerson Spice In the centre of Stone Town, this hotel is a cross between camp heaven and an Ottoman palace. Rooms are packed with antique furniture and feature exquisite double beds guarded by mosquito nets.

The food in the three dining spots is among the city’s best. Doubles from $206. Tharia Street, 00 255 775 046 395, emersonspice.com Essque Zalu Dramatic luxury resort on the northern coast of the island that overlooks a picture-postcard beach. The food is much better than the usual buffet boards dished up by many five-star resorts. Zanzibari-inspired breakfast dishes are better than those served in town. The hotel is undergoing a makeover with stunning new decor. Doubles from $535.

Near Nungwi, 00 255 773 601 799, peraquum.com Fumba Beach Lodge A great base for diving and snorkelling, close to the Menai Bay Conservation Area. Like many of the island’s lodges, it has villas at the water’s edge and a bar perched on top of a baobab tree. A day’s snorkelling or diving, with equipment supplied and a barbecue on a desert island afterwards, costs $79pp. Doubles from $221. Fumba, 00 255 778 919 525, fumbabeachlodge.com Park Hyatt A glamorous, beautiful new hotel with marble public rooms

and some very good Arabic-inspired cuisine. It’s on the tip of Stone Town’s pointed nose and a few yards from Forodhani Gardens. Doubles from $370.

Shangani Street, 00 255 245 501 234, zanzibar.park.hyatt.com The Swahili House A period Arab house next to the old Slave Market that once belonged to the Sultan. The rooftop restaurant has a great view over Stone Town and does a mean pilau. Doubles from $101. Mchambawima Street, 00 255 777 510 209, theswahilihouse.com The Residence Complex of luxury villas spread over 32ha. The Indian cuisine and Mauritian specialities served are assured. Half-board doubles from $775.

Mchangamle, 00 255 245 555 000, cenizaro.com Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa Made up of 11 villas, a number of garden rooms and with about 70 staff to cosset guests, White Sand has a stay on Zanzibar all covered. Beautifully manicured gardens and views of a perfect white-sand beach are on offer too. The owner is passionate about kiting, and it’s a great place to take a course. It is luxurious, but the staff are spontaneous and friendly under the guidance of general manager, Tony Leslie. The hotel’s in-house carpenter does all the woodwork, and its new herb garden is coming along nicely.

Doubles from $655. Paje Beach, 00 255 776 263 451, whitesandvillas.com

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Clockwise from below: beach view from Park Hyatt; White Sand; its bar; seaweed is a prime export. Opposite, clockwise: Essque Zalu hotel’s jetty; Emerson Spice hotel; Per Aquum lobby; its lobster tail; spices; its kaimati with a scoop of passion fruit

‘Forodhani Gardens hosts the night market at the water’s edge. It’s an Afro-Omani streetfood fest. Mishkaki are the staple – marinated shish kebabs that cost a few pence a stick’

Where to eat Don’t expect to find many local Zanzibari restaurants. However, many Stone House hotels offer ‘Zanzibari’ cuisine.

Lukmaan Situated in the Mkunazini quarter of Stone Town, Lukmaan is a kind of café-diner where you sit at mahogany tables and fill your stomach at either breakfast or lunch. It closes in the late afternoon. A filling meal and a non-alcoholic drink will cost about $3.50. New Mkunazini Road, 00 255 777 482 131, lukmaan.blogspot.com Mercury’s Bar After visiting Forodhani Gardens, drop in to this nearby watering hole to sample the lengthy drinks list, grab a snack, and toast the Queen singer. Mizingani Road, 00 255 777 413 081

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have a restaurant culture to suck in tourists. Instead, eating out is a moveable feast that begins early morning and meanders into early afternoon. Sitting at a table in Lukmaan café, she says that her son always breakfasts on kachori (spicy fried-potato balls), samosas and daal. ‘My ex-husband would have octopus soup and mix it with spinach. The men think it gives them power. And he’d eat it with mandazi (coconut doughnut) or chapatti.’

According to Bonita, it isn’t African, Arab or Indian chefs that do the cooking here. ‘All of the dishes come from someone’s house.

They employ ladies. One’s speciality is the meat, another’s the samosas. Everything has ginger and garlic in it.’

Forodhani Gardens hosts the night market at the water’s edge.

It’s an Afro-Omani street-food fest. Mishkaki are the staple – marinated shish kebabs that cost a few pence a stick. Eating ten or more is normal. They come in a bewildering gallimaufry of fusion variations based on crustaceans and cephalopods. Following your nose is better, and probably safer, than eating with your eyes.

The spreads of ready-to-eat goodies don’t compare with morsels grilled fresh over homemade charcoal.

Opportunist cats rub against anyone looking like a soft touch for a titbit. Zanzibar pizza is the unique edible theatre snack. Its star cook calls himself Mr Big Banana. He works with a cool sense of artistry. First, he stretches out a ball of dough to the size of a silk handkerchief. On it goes an even thinner dough skin topped with diced red onion and minced beef. Next comes a raw egg, which he mixes into the beef, and some chopped Kambuzi chilli. After enveloping the filling, he fries it on a griddle – slowly, so that the egg cooks and the wrapping doesn’t burn.

At high tide, wavelets lap against the sea wall protecting the gardens. Knee-deep in water, men paddle through it, pointing flashlights at their feet. They are trying to catch small cuttlefish. At low tide along coastal beaches, women, up to their thighs with their heads covered, search for oysters, clams and shrimp – anything for the cooking pot. What earns them some cash, however, is gathering mwani, or seaweed. This used to be a lucrative crop, exported around the world. Europe bought it for cosmetics

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and China for food and medicine. This natural resource, as with the fish, is less abundant than it was. Yet it’s still worth harvesting.

Surrounded by the Indian Ocean, Zanzibar may not want for seafood. For holidaymakers and locals alike, it’s two separate things.

Diving instructor Peti keeps a vigilant eye on snorkellers plunging over coral in the Menai Bay Conservation Area. Flitting over the reef are shoals of silvery whitebait known as dagaa. They are the favourite food, he says, of the bonito fish – and of the people in the villages. ‘We catch them with a small net. They’re very nice – you can fry them or eat them with cassava. I like them best in a soup made with coconut milk.’

If he catches changu, a kind of green-blue snapper, he’ll roast it over coals and eat it on the bone. The head is a choice morsel.

No hotel chef would dare to dish up anything but the fillet.

Rock lobster, he confesses, is one of his favourites, but he won’t often eat it if he catches one. ‘To be honest, I’m going to sell it,

Clockwise from centre: Misriya serves up grilled mixed skewers at the night market; fresh veg at Darajani market; sweetcorn seller; potato chips; vanilla

because with that money you can buy more food,’ he tells me.

Every resort’s à la carte menu has to list it: baked with a mild curry sauce, as a tail with a citrus beurre blanc or part of a mixed seafood platter. Fumba Beach Lodge, on the south-west coast, takes small parties on excursions to desert islands for alfresco lobster barbecues. Burton had described it as making ‘a rather insipid salad’. Instead, he recommended a different version with the meat, after boiling, pounded and mixed with peppers and seasoning. It is then restored to the shell, and the whole baked in the oven.

Observant to detail, he singled out Alphonso mangoes for praise.

They grow all over the island, lining roads with arcades of trees from which fruit hangs in green clusters. To eat, they are perfumed and sweet rather than fibrous or clinging to the stone. Juiced, they have the texture of a smoothie. To kickstart the day, baobab juice (sour-ish, yet milder than tamarind) comes close. The trees – some hundreds of years old – produce fruit

Markets

Darajani The old Slave Market in Stone Town is probably the best place to buy spices, and haggling here is perfectly acceptable. It’s also an ideal place to stock up on fruit while people-watching.

Forodhani A Stone Town market on the waterfront, and the best place to eat local food after dark. The trick is to buy nothing that isn’t cooked fresh in front of you, and to avoid any attempts to hustle you.

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Left to right: a local; red beans for sale; Swahili House manager Bonita Blom

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Above: Forodhani Gardens night market.

Left to right: mishkaki skewers; Paulo in Maasai dress

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‘‘Alphonso mangoes grow all over the island, lining roads with arcades of trees from which fruit hangs in green clusters’’

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pods containing seeds swaddled in a moist pulp. It has often been called a superfood. Less healthy, arguably, are the ubuyu sold in the back alleys of Stone Town; these are dried baobab fruit in a vermilion sugar coating with a hint of chilli. It’s almost as addictive as the halva made from the pulp served at the Park Hyatt – it’s sticky and chewy, like Turkish delight.

Avoid the local moonshine, its safer to stick to Tanzanian hops. It’s good, perhaps because the country used to be a German colony. One of the leading brands, Safari, is strong and cloying, and costs about $1.40 a pop at Mercury’s Bar – a watering hole named after the island’s most famous son, Queen frontman Freddie. Kilimanjaro, pale with a bitter finish, is more of a thirst-quencher.

Better still, you could stick to the non-alcoholic drinks, such as the homemade ginger beer or mocktails. ‘The sweet limes are considered inferior to none’ – Sir Richard again. Fresh lime juice mixed with tonic (the quinine in the latter messes with mosquitoes’ heads, incidentally) cleans away the saltiness in the mouth after a day spent snorkelling.

It would be normal to feel a touch of guilt spending megabucks on a luxury villa while most of the population live a little above subsistence level. Peti is reassuring: ‘When the tourist sector is booming, it’s better for the environment. When a lot of guests come, they create jobs and people here don’t have to fish, because mostly they are only doing it for food.’

Seen through the time-telescope of Sir Richard Burton, Zanzibar was once where ‘a drunkard outlives a water-drinker’.

Some 150 years later, it has transformed itself into a spectacular island up there with Mauritius and the Seychelles. Its unique asset is its Swahili people, open and unspoiled. And on its white-sand beaches, the indolent pace has survived intact.

Left: The Rock restaurant’s unique setting.

Top to bottom: Essque Zalu jetty; lobsters; idle boat; Maasai; beach barbecue; curried lobster at White Sand

Michael Raffael and Sarah Coghill travelled courtesy of Ethiopian Airlines, Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa, Park Hyatt Zanzibar and Per Aquum Essque Zalu Zanzibar.

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Food glossary Clockwise: lunchtime stop on Fumba Beach’s dhow cruise; Peti is the diving instructor; fellow cruisers; setting sail; Stone Town streets

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Gongo Illegal hooch, which is best avoided. It’s sold in the back-rooms of people’s homes, and some cheaply made versions can be toxic.

Kachori A fried potato dumpling.

Kaimati Dumplings coated in cardamom syrup.

Mandazi Yeasted doughnut made with coconut milk.

Mchele Rice.

Mkate wa ufuta A kind of puffed sesame-seed flatbread.

Mishkaki Generic term for any kind of marinated, grilled shish kebab.

Pilau The Zanzibari version has a softer-grained rice than the Indian version, and is spiced with cloves, cinnamon and ginger.

Ubuyu Fruit of the baobab tree.

Zanzibar mix A kind of slippery curry soup found at Forodhani Market with kachori and bits of fried cassava in it. When done well, it’s a delicious yet slightly sour soup, milder than the Thai tom yam.

Zanzibari pizza Not the sort you would recognise. It’s essentially a stuffed parcel filled with sweet or savoury ingredients, according to taste.

15th to 19th March 2016

Bahrain International Exhibition and Convention Centre Tickets available on www.virginmegastore.me Brought to you by

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FOOD FOCUS

MODERNEAST

Blending timeless methods and ingredients from Egypt to Iran, these recipes all have fresh takes on traditional cuisine. The Middle East never tasted better‌ RECIPES START ON PAGE 119

PUMPKIN DOUGHNUTS These are great to serve either as part of a brunch with tzatziki, or a sweet dish with chocolate or caramel sauce. Sweet potato works just as well for a savoury bite.

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BAKED WHOLE SNAPPER WITH WALNUTS, CHILLI AND TAHINI DRESSING

ENTERTAINING FOOD FOCUS

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ENTERTAINING

DUKKAH LAMB CUTLETS WITH MINT AND POMEGRANATE SALAD It’s really easy to make this dish, which makes such a big impact with its sharp, clean flavours.

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ENDIVE AND ROQUEFORT SALAD WITH GRAPES AND CARAMELIZED PERSIAN PAVLOVA WALNUTS dessert that’s perfect whichAn hasunconventional been roasted and stuffed with garlic, rosemary and fennel. Most ashave a celebration You can around families their owncake. recipe, and at play Italian festivals expect to see porchetta with the nuts vans peddling their. and berries to your taste too.

F&T WINE MATCH Nutty, oxidative character sherry that sits between the cripsness of an amontillado and the richness of an oloroso (eg Palo Cortado)

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RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN FROM FALAFEL FOR BREAKFAST BY MICHAEL RANTISSI AND KRISTY FRAWLEY, PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALAN BENSON (MURDOCH BOOKS, $28).

STUFFED SPATCHCOCKS WITH LAMB AND PINE NUTS Great for a dinner party, these chickens have a delicious, meaty filling – and certainly pack in the wow factor. Serve them on a large platter.

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Contact: Ali Al Shehabi : +973 17558816 Anas Al Amer : +973 17558854

GOURMET TRAVELLER

Blue

RHAPSODY in

Ruchika Vyas takes us on a Rajasthani food tour through Jodhpur

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GOURMET TRAVELLER JODHPUR

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GOURMET TRAVELLER JODHPUR

Clockwise from left: Jain Temple of Ranakpur; mirchi vada; Jodhpur clock tower. Opposite: Bhawan Palace; Ranakpur Temples

‘To them it is a destination that showcases the contrast of opulent havelis (palaces) and narrow over-crowded bylanes, where there are more cows roaming the streets than humans.’

U

p until I was five, the most exciting thing to do during every summer and winter vacation in Jodhpur, Rajasthan was to wait for the loud train horn every few hours, run to a wall a little short of my height and watch the train pass by, waving at random strangers. This, the most treasured memory of my hometown, eventually resulted in me losing my two front teeth which grew back in adulthood to resemble a milder version of Bugs Bunny-like buck teeth. Not that it stopped me from the ‘fun’ activity; it just made me hone my running skills. However, the world sees Jodhpur, Rajasthan’s second largest city, very differently. To them it is a destination that showcases the contrast of opulent havelis (palaces) and narrow over-crowded bylanes, where there are more cows roaming the streets than humans. A land of colours interspersed with the barrenness of the Thar Desert. For me, it is home.

The remaining parts of the day were spent running around the six rooms spread across the house, the extremely spacious open-air terrace and the most enjoyable, eating. From the crispy deep-fried kachoris (puffed up circular disks of dough) packed with spicy onion and potato filling to the mirchi vadas (big fat chillies sans the seeds filled with spicy potato mash deep-fried in chickpea batter), with gulab jamuns soaked in sweet syrup and deep brown moong dal halwa (a sweetmeat made with split green gram). I could eat three-four pieces at a time. It was quite the vicious circle. Eat a spicy kachori, follow it up with a sweet gulab jamun. Repeat.

Thankfully, in Rajasthani culture, being spherical is considered a symbol of wholesomeness. Food all over the state is known to be shamelessly indulgent, seeing how almost all preparations are made with heavy duty ingredients such as desi ghee (clarified butter). It may be a thousand extra calories, but good food means no compromise. And Rajasthanis really love their red chillies. Make no mistake; these are no regular red chillies. These are burn your tongue, make your eyes water and wake you up kind of red chillies.

I’m sure I could spew fire from my mouth if I tried hard enough.

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History dictates that most of the dishes that comprise Rajasthani cuisine were borne out of necessity owing to the state’s proximity to the desert. The scorching heat (that makes you feel like you’re inside an oven), the dryness (that makes your hair scream “What the heck!”) and scarcity of water—preventing its excessive use (read: lesser bathing)—led to most of the preparations being made using substitutes like milk, curd and buttermilk. The key was to use the minimal resources at hand and cook food that could last for several days and even eaten cold if required, without the requirement of heating in before consumption.

The sparse rainfall further reduced the chances of growing any root vegetables. And on the off-chance they could be grown; the vegetables would be dried and stored to enable inhabitants to use them for the rest of year. This is why the cuisine is dominated by ingredients such as gram flour, lentils and grains. It took me a while to notice that most of the popular dishes comprise of the same ingredients: dal baati churma, gatte ki sabzi, kachoris, mirchi vadas and bhujiya to name a few. But they tasted so damned good, it didn’t matter.

As a kid, I’d eat most of this at home when my uncles would bring home bagfuls from local vendors for the entire family. So when I returned to the city as an adult who was just discovering her love for travel, I was keen on exploring the source of my erm… ’wholesomeness’.

My self-created food tour started with Khatri Misthan at Jaljog Chauraha—which is situated, as the word translates,¬ at an intersection—in Sardarpura. The area itself is quite unimpressive.

No splash of colour or architectural building surrounds the area.

Just modern eating establishments and clothing stores, and a Café Coffee Day outlet for youngsters to sit inside for hours over just one cup of poorly-made coffee. Khatri Mishtan too is barely a shop. It just has a few men preparing kachoris and pakodas of different varieties. But what it lacks in ambiance, it makes up in the seriously delicious pyaaz kachori. The crust is perfectly

GOURMET TRAVELLER JODHPUR

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Clockwise from top: Mehrangarh Fort; Jain Temple of Ranakpur; Jodhpur. Opposite, clockwise: sweetlassi; street food; Mishrali Hotel; dining at Jodhpur; Sadar Market spices

crisp to the crack and the spiciness of the filling is just enough for those who relish it; without steam coming your of your ears. The other reason I prefer these as opposed to preparations at more popular places like Janta Sweets is because they don’t include cardamom seeds. But that’s a personal preference. Be sure to eat them fresh and hot because saving them for later will make them soggy.

A few minutes away in Sardarpura itself is Chaudhary’s, a tiny store that makes mouth-watering mirchi vadas right in front of you. You can literally eat them fresh out of the kadai (a large deep bowl) it is fried it.

These vadas are made with giant chillies that are sliced open, deseeded, stuffed with potato filling and slathered in a batter of gram flour with a dash of seasoning before deep frying it. They are often dangerously spicy, so try them only if you have the zest for adventure.

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Dal baati churma is undeniably one of Rajasthan’s most popular exports. The baati is a small round flaky ball of dough made from wheat flour that can be baked or deep-fried. It is then dipped in (you guessed it) ghee and mixed with churma (a concoction of wheat flour, jiggery and optional spices like cardamom powder held together by ghee). The dal, poured over this, is said to originally have been a mix of five different lentils, namely split Bengal gram, split black lentils, split green gram, whole green gram and split pigeon pea. Although, not everyone prepares it the same way anymore. Only one or two types are mixed together as per the new age cheat sheet. For me, Pokar Sweets, a tiny restaurant located on Chopasani Road (in Sardarpura), serves up quite an authentic version. Get down and dirty by eating it the local way—by hand.

GOURMET TRAVELLER

JODHPUR

And then there are the drool-worthy sweets. As per tradition, sweets aren’t served in the end like desserts but alongside the meals itself. In our family, they are served before meals, during them or even as a separate meal in itself. I challenge you not to end up licking the serving plate without feeling an ounce of guilt. Even today, I have to seriously control myself from polishing off an entire box of moong dal halwa from Mohanji’s in Ada Bazaar, only a few minutes away from Chopasani Road by rickshaw. Probably best to go there by yourself because you won’t want to share. Also sample ghewar, a sweet treat made with refined flour and melted ghee, whose appearance is akin to delicate lace spread over a circular disk decorated with pistachios, almond slivers and barak (edible silver foil). Crack up a piece of this sweet delicacy at Ras Sagar, Sardarpura and let it melt in your mouth bursting with flavour.

Next, I made my way to Ghantaghar (clock tower) passing rows of shops on either side of the road selling local handicrafts, colourful tie and dye lehariyas and bandhinis and other wares on the way. Among these is a nondescript soda shop called Gandhi’s serving up a variety of fun flavours like orange, mint, pineapple, green mango and more. All for a measly Rs 7 for a small glass, and Rs 10 for a big one. My recommendation is the kala khatta flavour (a tangy mix of Indian blackberries and mineral salt). Moving onwards, the welcoming arched entrance to Sardar Market opens to the centrally-located clock tower built using red sandstone from the region, complete with a domed top. As soon as you enter the gateway, turn right and you’ll see Mishrilal’s Hotel. His makhanya lassi is a thick, rich yogurt-based drink served with a generous helping of malai freshly made every day with pure cow’s milk extracted the traditional way. It’s a ‘pick up the glass to your mouth till you finish the last drop’ good. Just one glass of this heavy drink will suffice as a mini meal.

After so much gorging, if you’re still able to move, you deserve an applause. I attempted to walk it off, but I ended up looking like a zombie walking in slow motion. I was determined to end my evening with a cup of green tea with the view of Jodhpur’s most striking monuments, the grand Mehrangarh Fort. So I dragged my feet to Pal’s Haveli, 10 minutes away, and took a seat at their restaurant watching the sun fade away behind the magnanimous structure.

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BIG IN

JAPAN

Diners in Tokyo enjoy a precise style of cooking with ingredients that work in harmony.

Explore the range of tastes that stretches far beyond the sushi counter RECIPES START ON PAGE 119

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WORLD FOOD TENDON In Japan, rice is not just a side dish but as important as the rest of the meal. Having a Japanese rice cooker will definitely improve the results. This prawn and vegetable tempura recipe uses a light batter, which you can drizzle with this superb yet simple sauce.

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MEAT BENTO The quintessential meal for one comes in many guises. This version consists of crumbed pork, tonkatsu, in a runny omellete layered atop spiced rice and slices of cucumber.

MISO-SIMMERED MACKEREL Made from the soya bean, miso is perhaps best known for its use in a soup, where a soft paste is added to dashi stock along with wakame (seaweed) and tofu. It makes the ideal savoury sauce for fish and is light and quick to prepare.

RECIPES START ON PAGE 119

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WORLD FOOD FOOD FOCUS

ENDIVE AND ROQUEFORT SALAD WITH GRAPES AND CARAMELIZED which has been roasted and stuffed with garlic, rosemary and fennel.

Most families have their own recipe, and at Italian festivals expect to see porchetta vans peddling their wares fennel. Most families have their own recipe, and at Italian festivals expect to see F&T WINE MATCH Nutty, oxidative character sherry that sits between the cripsness of an amontillado and the richness of an oloroso (eg Palo Cortado) FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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SEA BREAM SASHIMI SALAD This is a fresh, pretty dish that is worth the prep time.

Using the best-quality fish is extremely important – and you should be able to buy ‘sashimi-grade’ from good fishmongers, food halls and Japanese stores. It’s garnished with peanuts and served with a hot oil, which adds a distinct smokiness.

SOBA WITH DUCK BREAST A warming combination of duck and leek in this dashi-based soup is given added texture by thin twists of buckwheat – perfectly suited for broths and the go-to noodle for Tokyoites.

A sprinkling of yuzu zest is the final, fragrant flourish.

RECIPES START ON PAGE 119

RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN FROM TOKYO CULT RECIPES

BY MAORI MUROTA, PHOTOGRAPHY

BY AKIKO IDA AND PIERRE JAVELLE (MURDOCH BOOKS, $28).

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Winner, winner,

chickendinner

Some exciting chicken dishes that promise as much flavour as they do simple, nutritious ingredients says Francesca Jackson PHOTOGRAPHY AND FOOD STYLING BY ANNA TSAREGRADSKAYA 82

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BLACKENED CAJUN CHICKEN WITH SWEET POTATO WEDGES AND GREMOLATA SAUCE RECIPES START ON PAGE 119

BAKED CHICKEN WITH FRUIT

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MOROCCAN CHICKEN WITH LEMONS, ORANGES AND OLIVES RECIPES START ON PAGE 119

SPANISH ORANGE SAFFRON CHICKEN WITH SALSA VERDE AND CITRUS ROASTED PEPPER SALAD

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ENTERTAINING

CHICKEN AND PRAWNS MEATBALLS WITH CARDAMOM RICE AND PEANUT SAUCE

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CHICKEN PILAF WITH HERBS AND EGGS RECIPES START ON PAGE 119 86

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ENTERTAINING

CHICKEN IN TIKKA MASALA MARINATE

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Voyage CRUISING

Maiden

This year sees more new ships launched than ever before.

Gary Buchanan rounds up the vessels setting sail, giving you the top routes to book. Champagne corks at the ready‌

The cruise industry is evolving, and today more and more passengers are taking to the seas. In Europe the number of passengers last year was up by 15 per cent on 2014, while in China the number of passengers grew by 79 per cent, reflecting an overall expansion in Asia of cruise ports and routes. To supply this demand, a further 20 ships will be making waves.

The prospect of more choice, better value and places to visit is unrivalled. Here we present the best of the bunch.

SIRENA FROM OCEANIA CRUISES WILL BE CHASING THE SUN AND CULTURE IN THE MEDITERRANEAN AND LAUNCHES THIS APRIL

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River Cruises River Cruises River Cruises River Cruises River Cruises

RIVER cruises

TOP ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT: EXPLORE WARM WATERS ON CRYSTAL ESPRIT; THE SHIP AT NIGHT; ITS DINING; SEEING BEAUTIFUL NORWAY ON HURTIGRUTEN. ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: THE RICH CULTURE OF BAGAN; SEE MANDALAY ON THE IRRAWADDY RIVER; SEA EAGLE; NOBLE CALEDONIA GLIDES PAST THE ICE

STRAND CRUISE

Ultra-modern in design, Finesse is a newly-constructed hotel barge cruising the River Saône and Canal du Centre in Southern Burgundy from May. Hotel barges have traditionally been conversions of cargo vessels but this new eight-guest péniche-hôtel – as they are known locally – has some of the largest accommodation in the European Waterways fleet. There’s a spacious sun deck with an alfresco dining area and spa pool. Staffed by a crew of five, Finesse will feature a demonstration galley where you can watch the onboard chef prepare gourmet meals featuring Burgundian specialities such as magret de canard and beef bourguignon; while oenophiles will love visiting the areas of Santenay and Beaune.

BEST ROUTE Revel in Dijon’s markets and cathedral; 14th-century Château de Germolles; and Paray-le-Monial, with its 12th-century basilica. Six-night cruise from Montchanin to St-Jean-de-Losne, departing August, from $5,620 (excludes flights). gobarging.com

CRYSTAL MOZART

KHA BYOO PANDAW

Having announced three new ocean ships, luxury operator Crystal Cruises is entering the increasingly popular river cruise sector.

In July, Crystal Mozart will herald the first of five vessels that will have competitors looking to their laurels. This freshly fitted out 160-passenger ship will have the highest crew-to-guest ratio and largest suites of any river boat in the world. Cruising the Danube, Crystal Mozart will offer the largest dimensions in Europe too.

Public areas span a single level, and there will be open-seating dining rooms with complimentary wines and spirits. A wrap-around promenade is joined by a beauty salon and library, plus a fitness centre and spa with an indoor pool. A fleet of luxury motor coaches is on hand for the gamut of excursions on offer in each destination.

BEST ROUTE The Countries of Eastern Danube cruise from Vienna visits Esztergom, Mohács, Pécs and Belgrade – 11 nights departing October, from $4,955 (includes flights). crystalcruises.co.uk 90

FINESSE

Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) has long featured on most people’s bucket lists. There’s arguably no finer way of experiencing this magical country – which was for so long off-limits to all but the most determined of traveller – than a cruise on the Irrawaddy River. With its contemporary suites, gourmet dining, spacious pool deck and wellness centre, the newly-built 54-passenger Strand Cruise has just entered service, offering three- and fournight sailings between the historical centres of Bagan and Mandalay (themselves lined up for Unesco status). Excursions include visits to iconic landmarks such as the famous U-Bein Bridge at Amarapura, Tantkyitaung Pagoda and the ancient imperial capital of Ava. BEST ROUTE The Strand Cruise is a reinvention of the legendary style and personality of Rangoon’s fabled Strand Hotel. A threenight cruise from Mandalay to Bagan departing September costs from $1,681 (excludes flights). thestrandcruise.com

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Another option for more intrepid travellers to Myanmar is the new Kha Byoo Pandaw, which launches in February. Founded in 1995

by Burma historian Paul Strachan with the rebuilding of an original Clyde-built steamer called Pandaw, the company can trace its roots back to the original Irrawaddy Flotilla Company, founded

by Scottish merchants in 1865. The Kha Byoo Pandaw has been constructed in the same luxurious colonial-style design as the rest of the Pandaw fleet with nine spacious air-conditioned staterooms, each with a sizeable bathroom and shower. Because of her ultrashallow draft, the ship will be able to cruise all the way up to the Upper Irrawaddy from July to March.

BEST ROUTE Few vessels set their compass to this remote region, so passengers will be able to revel in the pioneering spirit.

A ten-night sailing from Bagan to Katha and Mandalay, departing November, from $3,530 (excludes flights). pandaw.com

Adventure Cruises Adventure Cruises Adventure Cruises Adventure

ADVENTURE cruises

Photos by Sarah Coghill; Gary Latham; Carl Pendle; Andrew Richardson; Jill Mead

HEBRIDEAN SKY

CRYSTAL ESPRIT

The two ships in the Noble Caledonia fleet will be joined in May by the 118-passenger Hebridean Sky. This trio of identical ships is perfectly suited to expedition cruising, yet the ambient and clubby interiors are straight out of the pages of Country Living.

All accommodation boasts wood panelling and fabrics in soft hues which enhance the traditional nautical style. Suites on the Scott and Shackleton decks feature private balconies and are worth the investment. Navigating mostly in Northern Europe, South America and Antarctica, each cruise has a set itinerary – but it is the potential for fortuitous events, such as following a whale, that often creates the highlight of the cruise.

BEST ROUTE During the Patagonia and the Chilean Fjords cruise there’s an exploration of the hauntingly beautiful ‘land of fire and ice’ during calls at Cape Horn, Punta Arenas, Torres del Paine National Park, Chiloe Island, Puerto Montt and Valdivia.

Departing March 2017, 18-nights, Buenos Aires to Valparaiso, from $11,100 (includes flights). noble-caledonia.co.uk

Not content with taking ocean and river cruising by storm, Crystal Cruises has just launched Crystal Esprit. With its sassy, resort-style design, this 62-passenger, all-suite yacht boasts globally inspired gourmet cuisine, inclusive of fine grape and premium spirits.

Modern tasting and classic menus are a feature of the Yacht Club Restaurant each evening; the Patio Café is perfect for pastas and risottos, seafood and antipasti at lunch; while the Grill offers locally inspired street food served tapas style outdoors – complementing the Sunset Bar on the ship’s top deck. In keeping with the portintensive itineraries in warm waters, there’s a water-sports marina with a two-passenger submersible. The inaugural season sees this sleek yacht in the Seychelles until March before heading to the Arabian Gulf; Aegean; and Croatian Riviera.

BEST ROUTE This summer, sojourn along the Dalmatian coast and visit the archaeological wonderlands of Rovinj, Šibernik, Trogir, Vis, Hvar and Korcula. Venice to Dubrovnik seven-night cruise from $5,585 (excludes flights), departing June, crystalcruises.co.uk

SANTA CRUZ II

MS SPITSBERGEN

This Ecuadorian cruise company that pioneered expeditions to the Galápagos Islands back in 1969 has just launched its newest expedition ship in the region. The 90-passenger Santa Cruz II has stylish yet simple interiors, indoor and outdoor dining options, two lounge bars, a well-stocked library, gym and two hot tubs on deck. Accommodation is in single, double or triple cabins; while the three Darwin Suites at 30 square metres up the ante in terms of personal space and facilities. The vessel will offer four-, five- and nine-night itineraries in the Northern, Eastern and Western Galápagos Islands with each expedition carried out in the company of seven knowledgeable guides.

BEST ROUTE To get the best out of the ‘Enchanted Isles’, a combination of Santa Cruz II’s Eastern and Western itinerary is perfect. Mundy Adventures has a nine-night combination cruise, including a night in Quito from $9,089 (includes flights), departing September. mundyadventures.co.uk

Norwegian coastal cruising specialist Hurtigruten has announced a refurbishment programme that will give four ships a stylish ‘Arctic interior’ reflecting earth colours with icy blues. The newly acquired MS Spitsbergen is also being completely remodelled to offer suites with balconies and large windows, offering passengers a private point to watch the Northern Lights (best chance to see them between October and February) or midnight sun (visible north of the Arctic Circle from late May to July). From May, the sailing schedule of the 320-passenger MS Spitsbergen will allow more time in selected ports with exhilarating excursions such as rib-boat rides, whale watching, horse-riding and sea eagle safaris. Norwegians make good use of their summer and love the outdoor life. Another highlight of these voyages is the cuisine, and menus reflect local specialities.

BEST ROUTE Classic Round Voyage on MS Spitsbergen, 12-day round trip from Bergen to Kirkenes and back departing June, from $2,920 (excludes flights). hurtigruten.co.uk FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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Ocean Cruises Ocean Cruises Ocean Cruises Ocean Cruises Ocean ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: PEACEFUL GREEK ISLAND; SEVEN SEAS EXPLORER INSIDE AND OUT; ITS PENTHOUSE; CRUISING WITH HOLLAND AMERICA LINE; VIKING’S POOL; BEACH IN THE AEGEAN

OCEAN cruises SEVEN SEAS EXPLORER

Setting the bar reassuringly high, Regent Seven Seas Cruises launches its 750-passenger Seven Seas Explorer in July. This much-anticipated all-suite, all-balcony ship is designed to be the most luxurious ever built. Speciality restaurants include the ornate Chartreuse for French gastronomy; Pacific Rim with Asian-inspired cuisine; and Prime 7 with its superb steaks and seafood. There’s also the chance to learn from expert chefs in the Culinary Arts Kitchen – reminiscent of a prestigious French cookery school. To atone for any over-indulgence, head to the high-tech gym at Canyon Ranch SpaClub. This blissful space leads to a teak-deck terrace that surrounds an infinity-edge plunge pool. For the ultimate pied-à-terre at sea, the 360 square metre Regent Suite comes complete with its own spa retreat and Steinway grand piano; plus a glass-enclosed sitting area with views over the ship’s bow. Cruises span the globe and with so much included – flights, shore excursions, speciality dining, superb wines and spirits, wi-fi and gratuities – you can leave your wallet at home.

BEST ROUTE Soak up the best of Italy and Greece with the bonus of exploring Turkey’s ancient Ephesus. Monte Carlo to Athens, eight-nights departing October, from $5,535 (includes business-class flights on European routes). rssc.com

QUEEN MARY 2

Cunard’s ship – the touchstone of maritime tradition – will emerge in June from a makeover that will transform its slightly dowdy look with more than a soupçon of glamour. Given the moniker ‘Queen Mary 2 Remastered’, the company’s flagship will see redesigned Club Balcony Staterooms (ideal for those who wish to dine at a time of their choosing but don’t want to splash out on a suite) and, for the first time, the creation of Britannia Single Staterooms. Grill suites will now have oodles of style with muted tones and elegant textures as well as bespoke carpets inspired by rugs from the original Queen Mary. The exclusive Queen’s Grill and Princess Grill (for those paying top dollar) will undergo a decorative overhaul replacing the slightly passé look. For passengers who like a break from formality, the casual King’s Court restaurant will be remodelled to offer more seating and a wider range of food choices. A stylish Carinthia Lounge will be created for decadent champagne afternoon teas as well as a Verandah Grill which will evoke the recherché dining salons on the famous transatlantic ‘Queens’.

BEST ROUTE Nothing beats a rite of passage that is an Atlantic crossing to the Big Apple. Southampton to New York, departing July, seven nights from $2,060. cunard.co.uk 92

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LEFT TO RIGHT: SWEEPING HILLTOP VIEWS ON ST KITTS; RUGGED CLIFFS IN SARDINIA; SICILIAN CAFE

Cruises Ocean Cruises Ocean Cruises Ocean Cruises Ocean Cruises

VIKING SEA

LEFT TO RIGHT: CUNARD’S ICONIC NEW YORK VOYAGE; GETTING A WARM LIBERTY WELCOME; MANHATTAN IS WORTH EXPLORING

Cruise pundits were bowled over with the tangible comforts of Viking Ocean Cruises’ innovative Viking Star, which entered service in 2015. Offering a similar take on inclusive value and unfussy cuisine, the company’s second vessel, Viking Sea, is scheduled to enter service in April. This 930-passenger ship has been designed to exude a refined Scandinavian vibe – nowhere more so than the spa, with thalassotherapy pool and snow grotto. The bright and airy staterooms and suites are handsome, not minimal. Speciality restaurants such as Manfredi’s and the Chef’s Table come with no surcharge; beer, wine and soft drinks are complimentary; as is wi-fi.

Cruises in the Mediterranean, Northern Europe and the Caribbean place a great deal of emphasis on land discoveries, and the inclusive shore excursions offer much more than the usual frenetic routemarches from fountain to forum, ruin to relic, museum to monument, gallery to ghetto, cathedral to catacomb.

BEST ROUTE A Viking Homelands fly-cruise with a company that knows how to show off its own backyard. Stockholm to Bergen, 14 nights, departing July, from $6,400. vikingcruises.co.uk

KONINGSDAM

The countdown is on for Holland America Line’s much-anticipated Koningsdam, which debuts in April. Wine connoisseurs will be able to experience the art of winemaking at Blend – the only purposebuilt wine-blending venue at sea. Music will also play a big part in life onboard, with the Memphis music experience that is B.B. King’s Blues Club; a dedicated salon for classical music; and an interactive music experience called Billboard Onboard, part of the ‘music walk complex’. Fine dining offerings include a French seafood brasserie, Sel de Mer; Pinnacle Grill, featuring Pacific Northwest cuisine; Canaletto Italian restaurant; and pan-Asian Tamarind, one of the finest restaurants of its kind.

BEST ROUTE A perfect pre-Christmas escape to the Caribbean islands of Half Moon Cay in The Bahamas; British Virgin Islands; St Maarten; St Kitts; San Juan; and Grand Turk Island. Nine nights, sailing round-trip from Fort Lauderdale, departing December, from $1,270 (excludes flights). hollandamerica.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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IN SEASON

adventure Cruises

Small Ship Cruises Small Ship Cruises Small Ship Cruises Small Ship

SMALL SHIP cruises SEABOURN ENCORE

This ship may have many imitators, but it has few peers. When the new 604-passenger ship enters service in December, it will represent an evolution of the award-winning cruise line’s highly acclaimed Odyssey-class ships that have revolutionised ultraluxury cruising. There’s no risk of gastronomic ennui, because chef Thomas Keller – the culinary genius behind three-Michelinstarred Napa Valley institution The French Laundry – will be conjuring up new flavours to complement Seabourn’s already celebrated cuisine. Seabourn’s popular Extended Explorations programme offers longer voyages, which have the bonus of comprehensive port content and more in-depth exploration of a particular region. Seabourn Encore will sail to Arabia and India before setting the compass for Australia and New Zealand.

BEST ROUTE This voyage fires the imagination: visit New Zealand’s Milford Sound; Fjordland National Park; Christchurch; Wellington; and Tauranga during the austral summer. Sydney to Auckland 16-night cruise, departing February 2017, from $11,399 (excludes flights). seabourn.com

SILVER MUSE

As travellers come to expect more, cruise ships have evolved to appeal to whims and caprices. Nowhere is this more evident than Silversea’s latest addition to its fleet of boutique-style ships which launches in April 2017. Far removed from the cookie-cutter aesthetic, the 596-passenger Silver Muse will offer top-drawer luxury, with small-ship intimacy and all-suite rooms. There’s a cornucopia of dining options, including the elegant Atlantide Bar and Grill; La Grande Dame by Relais & Châteaux will feature a bespoke menu representing impeccable French cuisine; Kabuki will offer a theatrical production inspired by the five elements of Japanese cuisine – taste, smell, texture, colour and sound.

There will also be the signature Hot Rocks grill where you can cook your steak just the way you like it right beside your table.

BEST ROUTE The pinnacle of the routes on offer is arguably the 14-night cruise from Montreal to Fort Lauderdale, departing September 2017, calling at Halifax, Portland, Boston, New York (overnight), Norfolk, Charleston, Savannah and Port Canaveral.

From $8,475 (excludes flights). silversea.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: CRAB; MALTA; ITS COAST; MDINA; SILVERSEA ALL-SUITE CRUISE

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AZAMARA JOURNEY & AZAMARA QUEST

SIRENA

Azamara Club Cruises has created the concept of ‘Destination Immersion’ – placing the emphasis on exploration thanks to overnights in port and late departures. In 2016, Azamara’s ships will have 90 overnight stays in ports of call and there will be no fewer than 177 late-night sailaways from destinations such as Cochin; St Maarten; and Puerto Vallarta in Mexico. The company’s two vessels, Azamara Journey and Azamara Quest, are undergoing a major transformation during which no area onboard these 686-passenger ships will be left untouched. The Owner’s and Club World Ocean Suites will emerge with a genteel look; similar enhancements will be applied to Club Continent Suites and Staterooms. The Sanctum spa will have a contemporary look and emphasis on holistic health and Eastern therapies.

BEST ROUTE Arabian Gulf & Emirates offers an overnight stay in Dubai at the beginning and end of the cruise, which also calls at Khasab and Muscat in Oman; Bahrain; Doha; and Abu Dhabi.

Round-trip from Dubai, ten nights, departing October, from $2,720 (excludes flights). azamaraclubcruises.co.uk

The embodiment of urbane yet casually elegant travel, Oceania Cruises also knows how to enhance that essence of cruising – serendipity. Less cruise ship, more a country club at sea, the company’s latest ship will be inaugurated in April. Following a $37 million makeover, the 684-passenger Sirena will join her three sister ships. There will be a range of accommodation options, including 93 square metre Owner’s Suites, 73 square metre Vista Suites and the 30 square metre Penthouse Suites. Each category of suites and staterooms has Prestige Tranquillity Beds – possibly the most comfortable at sea. Restaurants will include Tuscan Steak and Red Ginger (Asian), while at lunchtime the Grand Dining Room will be transformed into Jacques Bistro. The ship will make an impressive 11 maiden calls to destinations for Oceania Cruises.

BEST ROUTE The aptly-named Mediterranean Collage cruise visits the Maltese island of Gozo, Palermo, Sorrento/Capri, Rome, Portofino, Monte Carlo, St Tropez, Marseilles and Mahon (Menorca). Ten-day cruise from Valletta to Barcelona, departing July, from $3,390 (includes flights). oceaniacruises.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

Going vegan need not mean going without flavour. Try this collection of street food recipes the next time you fancy a supper fit for a herbivore RECIPES START ON PAGE 119

PANI PURI POPS This dish captures the best of Indian street food. Deep-fried semolina puffs are stuffed with chaat, made with spiced potato, then filled in with tamarind sherbet.

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FOOD FOCUS

WILD MUSHROOM AND NASTURTIUM MOMOS This foraged recipe illustrates the different fillings that can be used. Chestnut mushrooms and dark cabbage work well if you can’t find the ingredients.

& ARABIA TRAVEL FOOD & FOOD TRAVEL

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FOOD FOCUS GADO-GADO An Indonesian staple, this dish has tempeh crisply fried in soy and a sticky, sweet peanut sauce.

RECIPES START ON PAGE 119

NASI LEMAK Traditionally a hearty Malaysian breakfast, its name means ‘creamy rice’. The pandan leaves have a savoury-sweet hint of vanilla. Using smoky tempeh and macadamia nuts makes for a proteinrich but deeply flavoured vegan sambal.

RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN FROM VEGAN STREET FOOD: FOODIE TRAVELS FROM INDIA TO INDONESIA

BY JACKIE KEARNEY, PHOTOGRAPHY BY CLARE WINFIELD (RYLAND PETERS AND SMALL, $24).

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Chef David Gene Marine

Experience a vibrant collection of Mediterranean tapas & signature dishes prepared by our Spanish chefs at La Vinoteca Barcelona, a stylish & relaxed venue that celebrates the passionate culture & gastronomy of Spain. Our very own Chef David Gene Marine, has a strong Michelin star background, exceptional technique & passion.

19 Yousif Ahmed Al-Shirawi Avenue, Block 338, Adliya, Bahrain Tel: +973 1700 7808, Fax: +973 1700 7909 ccerro@vinotecabcn.com | www.vinotecabcn.com

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Galle

Travel time 7 hours

Hobart

Travel time 16.25 hours

Nassau

Travel time 18.75 hours

Balancing delicately on the south-western tip of Sri Lanka, Galle is a romantic ode to the Spice Island’s past. If its ancient

walls could talk they’d tell tales of Dutch settlers, spice traders and merchants coming from afar. Today the story includes some of the most chic boutique hotels on the island. Explore local temples, wonder at the stilt fishermen and feast

on jumbo grilled prawns. Next stop is Hobart, Tasmania’s capital at the mouth of the River Derwent, where stunning scenery complements a creative restaurant scene. Spend your days wandering through art galleries or hiking through

forests in the many national parks and your evenings sipping crisp, cool-climate wines on the waterfront. Move on to

Nassau, the fast-paced capital of The Bahamas, where bankers have replaced pirates in the local economy. A weekend here revolves around the sea, from horse-riding along the shore, to fishing for marlin in deep water and whiling away

your days on the many pristine beaches that ring the island. Locals pride themselves on their easy-going attitude, so pour yourself a drink and mosey on down to Arawak Cay where the party is always just getting started.

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Clockwise from top left: boats line up on Sri Lanka’s majestic shoreline; a local taxi driver takes a break; elephants on parade; vanilla crop; spectacle of the stilt fishermen; colonial facades; folded dosa pancake; perusing the market; manning the nets; lighthouse; Galle Fort; friendly local children

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On the southwestern tip of Sri Lanka, this coastal city has stylish boutique hotels, bohemian vibes and bountiful white sand beaches to tempt you, says Imogen Lepere charm weren’t enough, this city in southern Sri Lanka has Unescolisted treasures in its old town, whose cobbled streets and colonial architecture remain largely unchanged from when it began life as a Dutch garrison in 1663. The island has a complex weather system with two monsoons affecting different areas at different times, but in spring the south-western monsoon has passed and you’re likely to get balmy temperatures and low rainfall.

What to do February and March is prime whale-spotting season – in these months there’s a 95 per cent chance of spotting sperm whales just an hour offshore. Book a half-day trip from Galle harbour with Sri Lanka Navy whalewatching.navy.lk for a memorable experience. The beaches surrounding Galle are among the best on the island and are known for surfing; expect turquoise water, white sand and unapologetically perfect palm trees. Jungle Beach is right in front of the fort, but thick foliage makes it a long walk – luckily, friendly fishermen are always eager to assist with their boats for a small fee. Lady Sea Baths is the local’s choice; sip a gooseberry-like nelli juice at any of the thatched shacks between swims. First built by Portuguese settlers in 1588, Galle Fort gallefortguide.com is a romantic maze of crumbling ochre buildings, colonial architecture (Pedlar and Parawa Streets in particular) and winding pedestrian streets. However, this ramshackle facade hides galleries, markets and a host of stylish boutiques selling Sri Lanka’s famous sapphires, moonstones, silks and spices. A few historic sights not to miss are the Dutch Church, the main gate, lighthouse and Galle International Cricket Stadium.

Where to stay Luxury hotels in Galle are like members of an unusually attractive family. While they each have a distinct personality, there are certain appealing features they all have in common: tiled floors, local contemporary art, 19th-century furniture and teak four-posters hung with cool muslin curtains. Amangalla 00 94 91 223 33 88, aman.com is the first of the exclusive Aman

Travel information

Resorts group to be located in the town itself. It is housed in the Fort and is full of character, with romantic views over the inner harbour and large tropical gardens. Kahanda Kanda 00 94 91 494 37 00, kahandakanda.com is the last word in eco-chic; its nine suites (most in standalone buildings) use only solar power and are on the edge of a palm-fringed tea estate on the outskirts of town.

Galle’s newest boutique address is The Fort Bazaar 00 94 77 363 83 81, srilankacollection.com which opened in January. Located within the walls of the fort, it has 18 suites with views over the town’s red-tiled rooftops and onto the Indian Ocean, as well as a restaurant headed by Australian chef Neal Giles.

Where to eat and drink Peppercorn berries, nutmeg, turmeric, vanilla orchids, cardamoms and cloves all grow wild on the Spice Island and their perfume permeates everything from cups of tea to curries. The Galle Fort Hotel’s restaurant 00 94 91 223 2870, galleforthotel.com serves delicate fusion dishes inspired by the Spice Route; look out for sweet mango salad with nutty blue swimmer crabmeat. The fort is honeycombed with cafés serving spiced chai tea with lemongrass. Poonie’s Kitchen on Pedlar Street is a local secret that’s ideal for lunch; enjoy organic salads accompanied by fresh coconut water under the araliya trees in the courtyard. The Cinammon Room jetwinghotels.com offers excellent fish in a fine dining atmosphere. The signature dish is the grilled seafood platter; expect large prawns, butterfish and snapper. A wander in the 300-year-old Dutch Market reveals a host of colourful street food including rolls of cinnamon bark as thick as cigars, hand-squeezed papaya juice and ‘hoppers’, crispy coconut pancakes topped with fried eggs and fiery chutneys.

Time running out? Koggala Lake is a 30-minute drive away and has a scattering of islands accessed by rowing boat. Discover Buddhist hermits, a cinnamon plantation and lush jungle.

Trip tip Wander the coast path to Unawatuna (5km) at dusk and see stilt fishermen catching rockfish on the shore.

Currency is the Sri Lankan rupee. Time is 5.5 hours ahead of GMT. Flight time is 7 hours from Dubai. The cost to carbon-offset is $7,71, visit climatecare.org

Resources

Getting there

Further reading

Colombo, which is a 2-hour drive from Galle. srilankan.com Qatar Airways flies to Colombo from Doha qatarairways.com

Books, $35) is a beautifully illustrated journey through Sri Lanka’s culinary heritage, combining first-class photography and recipes.

Sri Lankan Airlines operates daily direct flights from Dubai to

Sri Lanka Tourism has well-organised itineraries and ideas,

as well as comprehensive advice on essentials. srilanka.travel

Serendip: My Sri Lankan Kitchen by Peter Kuruvita (Murdoch

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Photos by Chris Caldicott; Julian Love; Sarah Coghill

Why go? As if bountiful beaches, sunshine and alluring bohemian

Clockwise from top left: tuck into oysters beside the water at Mures Upper Deck; the restaurant’s harbour location; SmallFry’s apple cinnamon fritters; and its decor; Tasmanian grill; lively Cargo; stylish boats; Small-Fry breakfast; the cosy kitchen; Mures mussels; rich shots; cakes and eggs by Small-Fry; Pacific oysters

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Tasmania’s capital not only does a fine line in Pacific oysters, barista coffee and grape, but also serves up world-class art and an enviable outdoor lifestyle, says Anne Krebiehl it’s an island at the end of the world’. If you’re after complete escape, among super-laidback locals, then Tasmania’s capital, Hobart, is your spot. Perched inside Storm Bay at the southern tip, the city has a quaint small-town feel. The first thing that strikes you as you get off the plane is the air: it’s said to be among the cleanest in the world. The location is key: there are just a few craggy outcrops between Hobart and Antarctica. Tasmania is geared towards outdoor pursuits, with 45 per cent of the land given over to national parks, but fortunately you don’t need to be a keen surfer or hiker to fit in. The pristine, under-populated surroundings bring forth high-quality produce, so craft beer-loving, home-curing, wine-savvy gourmands will feel right at home too.

What to do Make sure you are in Hobart on a Saturday to catch the weekly Salamanca Market salamanca.com.au which is a cut above most markets with its vibrant mix of produce and art.

Prepare to have your perceptions of contemporary art completely questioned at MONA mona.net.au the Museum of Old and New Art – a large private collection open to the public. Exhibitions in this spectacular building are deliberately set out to shock. The programme of events and concerts is equally thought-provoking.

Regain your sense of aesthetics in the tasting room of the Moorilla Winery moorilla.com.au on the same site and under the same ownership. If you’d rather skip the art, taste a comprehensive range of the island’s cool-climate wines from 81 vineyards at the Gasworks Cellar Door gasworkscellardoor.com.au just off the seafront. Combine exercise with history and walk to Battery Point to check out the 19th-century architecture, as well as Narryna Heritage Museum tmag.tas.gov.au with its folk traditions. If you are feeling energetic, Greater Hobart Trails greaterhobarttrails.com.au has some top suggestions for walks starting off in town.

Where to stay Zero Davey Apartments 00 61 3 6270 1444, escapesresorts.com.au offers spotlessly clean suites in a central

Travel information

Currency is the Australian dollar. Time is 11 hours ahead of GMT. Journey time from London is about 16.25 hours. The cost to carbon-offset is $39.03, visit climatecare.org

Getting there Emirates flies from Dubai via Melbourne and then on to Hobart emirates.com Qantas flies from Dubai via Sydney qantas.com AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL

location, ideal for self-caterers looking to cook some stunning island produce. Enjoy waterfront views and contemporary art in an old jam factory at The Henry Jones Art Hotel 00 61 3 6210 7700, thehenryjones.com – a building dating back to 1804. The Salamanca Wharf Hotel 00 61 3 6224 7007, salamancawharfhotel.com has sun-flooded rooms and decor made using local timber. A Loft Penthouse has views over Princes Park and a granite kitchen.

Where to eat and drink Fancy piña colada doughnuts for

breakfast? Then head for the tiny but exquisite Small-Fry 00 61 3 6231 1338, small-fryhobart.com.au on Bathurst Street and discuss cake recipes with owner Rhys Hannan as he makes your long black. His wife, April, makes her doughnuts in a variety of ever-changing flavours. Tasmania’s Pacific oysters are delectable; you may even spy the oyster beds from the plane as you fly in.

Try them as fresh and natural as they come at the renowned Mures Upper Deck 00 61 3 6231 1999, mures.com.au/ upperdeck or indeed at nearly every waterfront venue. Grape Bar 00 61 3 6224 0611, grapebar.com.au does them with a refreshing flute of Tassie fizz and live music. Like elsewhere in Australia, the Italian influence is strong and delicious – so don’t miss Cargo Bar Pizza Lounge 00 61 3 6223 7788, cargobarsalamanca.com.au for its buzzy atmosphere and award-winning grape list. If you’re after a stiff drink, why not join the Lark Distillery tour 00 61 6231 9088, larkdistillery.com where you start at the Cellar Door in downtown Hobart but are soon taken to the distillery itself, situated in the nearby picturesque Coal River Valley – with lots of single malt tastings thrown into the mix.

Time running out? With bird-watching binoculars and sea legs ready, board an Iron Pot Cruise ironpotcruises.com.au to view Australia’s oldest lighthouse and spot wildlife on Betsey Island.

Lasting two and a half hours, it takes in plenty of local history.

Trip tip Take an ‘air walk’ around the tree-level bridges of Tahune Forest for awesome views of Huon River. viator.com

Resources

Discover Tasmania is full of practical tips and inspiration for getting the most from your visit. discovertasmania.com.au

Further reading

Deep South: Stories from Tasmania edited by Ralph Crane

and Danielle Wood (Text Publishing, $16) is a collection of 24 short stories from both new and notable writers.

Photos by Ewen Bell; Tourism Australia; Small-Fry Hobart; Geoffrey Beilby

Why go? As one perceptive local puts it: ‘Not only is it an island,

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Clockwise from top right: the colonial-style Hilton combines the best of beach and city living; lush island neighbour; conch on the menu; traditional thatch; carnival musician; fritters; crabs; Nassau’s coastline; lobster; shark swim; colourful facades; rold town; back street; mangoes; Bruno’s; the Hilton; British postbox

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NASSAU

A riot of beaches, bars and great snorkelling opportunities, the capital of The Bahamas mixes secluded castaway areas with lively Caribbean city life, says Imogen Lepere

Travel information

Currency is the Bahamian dollar. Time is five hours behind GMT. Flight time is 18.75 hours from Dubai. The cost to carbon-offset is $40.65, visit climatecare.org

Getting there Air Canada flies daily to Nassau from Dubai via Toronto aircanada.com Emirates Airlines flies daily to Nassau from London via London emirates.com

view guest rooms to cottages and apartments. The Bamford Spa, cinema and restaurants serving Southeast Asian and Mediterranean cuisines are all part of the luxury package. If you want to embrace the playful island spirit, Compass Point Beach Resort 00 1 242 327 4500, compasspointbeachresort.com looks like something from a Pixar film, with candy-coloured wooden huts peering out of luscious tropical foliage beside the water’s edge.

Where to eat and drink A wander around the food stalls at Potter’s Cay will reward you with a dazzling array of Bahamian dishes to choose from, served in brightly painted shacks by raucous vendors. Conch (or ‘konk’ to locals) is the island’s speciality, often served with cucumber, lime and searing Scotch bonnet chillies. To experience old-style Nassau at its very best, a visit to Graycliff 00 12 4230 291 50, graycliff.com is a must. This elegant colonial building was once the home of notorious pirate, Captain John Graysmith, but it is now a destination restaurant with a packed grape cellar. At The Poop Deck 00 1 242 393 8175, thepoopdeck.com you can choose your own red snapper, yellowtail or spiny lobster from the ice counter and let the chefs prepare it as you enjoy panoramic views of Yacht Haven marina from its terrace. There’s fresh-off-the-boat conch chowders and fritters to devour too. Arawak Cay is also known to locals as ‘Fish Fry’ because of its authentic fish shacks. It’s also an area for laid-back evening drinks. The low-key bars often have live jazz and serve local hops and cocktails, such as Sky Juice, a heady blend of cane, coconut milk, nutmeg and cinnamon.

Time running out? Caves Beach on the north shore of the island is normally quiet and has a series of shallow limestone caverns which provide welcome shade on a hot day.

Trip tip A lot of produce has to be shipped in from the US or other Caribbean nations, and restaurants in resort areas may have an international menu. Be sure to seek out Bahamian cuisine, rich in fish and tropical fruits like guava, papaya and mango.

Resources

The Islands of the Bahamas is the official tourist board website with a detailed section on Nassau. bahamas.co.uk

Further reading

A Little Bahamian Cook Book by Rosamund Lambert (Appletree Press Ltd, $7.10) enables you to recreate the tastes of your holiday at home, including minced crawfish and rum cake.

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Photos by Natalie Pecht; Bahamas Tourist Office

Why go? From its bustling craft shops to trademark bumpy ‘jitney’ buses, the capital of The Bahamas has an exuberance that never fails to excite. Pirates and bootleggers once washed up on its shores, which are today enjoyed by travellers who bask on its miles of sun-drenched sands lapped by azure seas.

Throw in sensational seafood, appealing pink-and-white colonial architecture and February temperatures in the mid-twenties and you have an ideal destination for winter sun.

What to do Most activities in Nassau revolve around the sea.

There is a boundless selection of white-sand beaches, from party lovers’ Junkanoo to local secret Love Beach, which has a 16ha coral reef a mile offshore. Stuart Cove’s stuartcove.com has an encyclopedic knowledge of the island’s aquatic landscape and is the go-to company for snorkeling, scuba and shark diving.

It caters well for all skill levels, from beginners through to the more experienced, who just want to rent equipment. For fishing heaven, charter a yacht from Born Free bornfreefishing.com and head out to land whoppers like mahi-mahi, tuna and blue marlin. Little can be more satisfying than taking your fish to a local restaurant for them to barbecue it fresh at the end of a successful day.

Once back on dry land, relax amid over 4ha of gardens at The Retreat bnt.bs and its huge collection of exotic palms.

On Saturday mornings, Doongalik Farmers’ Market doongalik.com is perfect for a roving breakfast of sweet Bahamian mangoes and fish tacos with a squeeze of sour orange juice.

Where to stay In a league of its own, One&Only Ocean Club 00 1 242 363 2501, oceanclub.oneandonlyresorts.com has a new shoreline infinity pool, making the most of its blissful location.

The British Colonial Hilton 00 1 242 322 3301, hilton.com is the only beachfront hotel in the lively downtown district and is ideally situated for the main shopping areas. If you fancy something a little more intimate, then The Island House 00 1 242 698 6300, the-island-house.com has just 30 rooms, ranging from ocean-

Tried&Tasted

COOKERY COURSES RESTAURANTS DELIS HOTELS

Eastern Delights Bahrain

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sushi platter to die for and tom yum soup, that was the perfect blend of sour & spicy, with gentle overtones of lemon grass and succulent prawns, that gently danced a samba on our palates, setting the scene for a memorable feast. Roast Beijing duck followed; the rich flavours of the perfectly crispy skin and moist silky smooth meat sitting expectantly below, was accompanied by fine shreds of cucumber and spring onion and the rich unctuous flavour of hoi sin sauce, wrapped in a light Chinese pancake, provided an extravagant treat for our taste-buds. Still raising the bar further, we were treated to a slow cooked Massaman lamb shank; the meat was beautifully tender and moist with a delightful sensuality that unfolded, layer by layer, revealing a depth and complexity of intense flavours and textures that blended perfectly with the aromatic fragrances. Our evening was completed with a platter that eschewed mellow flavours with citrus undertones of fruit, a velvety lemongrass brûlée and sweet desserts that heralded the perfect way to round off a memorable evening of gourmet indulgences and outstanding service. FJ rotana.com

Words by Francesca Jackson

he WU Restaurant & Lounge is located at the iconic ART Rotana on Amwaj Islands in Bahrain and offers a contemporary take on traditional Asian cuisine amidst the chic atmosphere of the sleek modern décor. Whether you sit inside the dining room with its floor-to-ceiling windows, wooden tables and lustrous hues or dine on the terrace overlooking the Gulf, WU leaves you in no doubt that you should be prepared for something special. Chef Mac Withojit and his team of culinary maestros have brought a little dinner theatre to complement a menu filled with modern re-interpretations of some of Asia’s greatest dishes.

I will admit that I had a little trepidation about my visit, with so many restaurants promising Asian fusion greatness and not so many delivering; but without question, any reservations I may have fostered earlier in he evening evaporated almost immediately we sat down. We started our tentative gastronomic affair at WU with a veritable array of tempting appetisers from across the orient; a duck and watermelon salad that had the Ying and Yan of the rich duck balanced perfectly by the sweet-juicy texture of the watermelon, a

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Carême column

Chef Paul Bocuse Michelin-starred Chef

Holder of 3 Michelin Stars for over 50 years, The Culinary Institute of America’s Chef of the Century, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, and the Légion d’honneur – just some of accolades received by culinary genius Chef Paul Bocuse. Food and Travel is proud to welcome the recognised Father of French Cuisine and living legend as one of our most revered contributors and columnists.

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hen Food and Travel Arabia asked me to become a contributor to their esteemed publication I could see they shared my passion for commitment and quality. I always wanted to be a chef, I grew up in the family restaurant, and for almost 75 years I have strived to be the best chef I can be; and my love of French food and an unbridled commitment to quality has always served me well.

For my first column I was asked to write a little about my formula for success and some of my most treasured achievements - I think many people were expecting me to say earning 3 Michelin stars, an accomplishment of which I am immensely proud, and I still have them over 50 years later; however I would say my proudest moment was in 1961 when I was awarded the title of ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’ (Best Craftsman of France).

I do believe that if you work hard and persevere you get better every day, being consistent isn’t enough; you must always to strive to improve. My dishes tend to be perhaps more refined and more

delicate, using only the freshest and finest of ingredients and a healthy respect for nature.

My flame for French cuisine has never dwindled, and at 90 years of age I hope my legacy will be my desire to pass along my knowledge to the next generation, and encourage them to reach for success and culinary excellence; which is why 30 years ago I created the Bocuse d’Or, a gastronomy contest that places the emphasis on inspiration, refined techniques and passion for the culinary arts. This is the spirit of Paul Bocuse and the spirit of the Bocuse d’Or. Which is why I am pleased to see that Food and Travel share my commitment to excellence, with the Food and Travel GCC Awards being judged on the basis of quality, talent and consistency by a panel of expert judges. “To the winners my congratulations, to the finalists well done and if at first you don’t succeed, try, try again – because you will get better and better with every day.” bocuse.com ~ bocusedor.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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Left to right: Meat Co.’s fillet crayfishtail; mixed skewers; Meat Co.; Chez Sushi’s rock shrimp with chili and garlic

Restaurants This month, we try mouth-watering steaks and the freshest of sushi in Bahrain, innovative cuisine in Iceland and a London Vietnamese restaurant with a chequered history

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f you are passionate about mouth-watering steak then the Meat Co. should be on your restaurant bucket-list.

The sleek décor provides a welcome across all three floors with large windows providing a warm natural light by day and the discreet lighting bringing out the earthy tones of the rich autumn colours to provide a welcoming atmosphere. We had a comfortable booth by the window and were served by charming and attentive staff who showed just the right level of service without being obtrusive; the menu offered a tempting array of dishes which made for quite a challenge as we wrestled over just what to choose. Our appetizers, a light crisp & flaky volau-vent of creamy mushroom and spinach; and pan-fried pistachio coated goats cheese salad with raspberry dressing didn’t disappoint. For our mains we had the lamb cutlets marinated in Mauritian spices, the meat was sweet

and tender, cooked to perfection with a soft pink centre, just as I ordered, and accompanied by roasted cauliflower and olive salad, a delight in itself. My dining partner enjoyed the fillet butcher’s skewer, cuts of Angus tenderloin with pepper and onion, served to a tee; a salty, charred crust and a soft, ruby-red centre, succulent and inviting. And if that wasn’t enough we shared delicious sweet potato fries and a creamed spinach that was made to just the right texture. We topped of our meal with indulgent desserts; orange and vanilla crème brûlée accompanied with biscotti, a perfect harmony for the delicate creamy overtones of the brûlée; and an absolutely perfect dark chocolate fondant served with raspberries and vanilla icecream. Once you have savoured the culinary delights in the dining room why not head up to the stylishly refurbished roof top terrace and relax. themeatco.com FJ

Chez Sushi Bahrain Chez Sushi, the UAE’s homegrown, fast, casual Japanese diner has spread its wings and headed to Bahrain with the first branch in the country recently opened in Saar. Billed as the region’s only restaurant offering custom-made sushi – you choose the ingredients, garnish and dressing and can even roll your own. Although small the restaurant is light and airy with a welcoming atmosphere and delightfully friendly and knowledgeable staff. You could taste the freshness of the ingredients with every bite; as we enjoyed the unctuous pleasures of chicken yakitori, California maki, and the sweetest crispy wasabi shrimp. I was tempted with the Sashimi & Sushi Bento Box, a meal on its own; the fresh salad with Chez Sushi’s signature dressing was the perfect overture to the ample selection of fresh salmon and tuna sashimi a selection of sushi and steamed rice. Not only an attractive and healthy option but excellent value with prices that that could clearly be seen to have stimulated a vibrant take-out and home deliver demand from the local community too. If you are looking for a great place for a quick lunch with first-rate food then look no further. FJ chezsushi.com 112

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Reviews by Francesca Jackson; Blossom Green; Imogen Lepere

Meat Co. Bahrain

gourmet

Global

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Left to right: Chez Sushi’s salmon Teriyaki; hotel Ion under the Northern Lights; Silfra chef; grilled satay at Nam Long; tasty morsels; Nam Long’s private dining room

Silfra Iceland Situated among glaciers in western Iceland, it would be easy for Silfra’s food to play second fiddle to the views. But Hrafnkell Sigrioarson and Sigurour Laufdal are two of the country’s most lauded chefs, and have created a menu that lives up to the location. The seasonal dishes feature plenty of fish and wild lamb, with the majority of the produce sourced or foraged on the island. Most diners order the generously portioned Arctic langoustines, grilled in the shell and served up with a copper pot of herb butter.

A starter of smoked trout with pickled pearls of apple, cucumber and dill mayonnaise was excellent, and the grape list succinct and welltravelled. Food and Travel enjoyed light chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuissé region – the perfect accompaniment to the sautéed cod with creamy kale and broccoli purée.

Dinner at Silfra isn’t complete without a drink at the hotel’s Northern Lights Bar, a luxuriant pile heaped with sheepskins, light-wood furniture and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the snowy lava field. Especially when that drink is a sweet, herbaceous short of Björk, a liqueur infused with local birch, served over ice. ET. 00 354 482 3415, ioniceland.is

Tried&Tasted EAT

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Timeless classics Nam Long Le Shaker South Kensington

Watering hole to the glitterati, this local Vietnamese is about more than fiery cocktails and bad behaviour

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ales of the potent Flaming Ferrari cocktail precede Food and Travel’s visit to Nam Long, on Old Brompton Road. On the menu for over 28 years, the concoction of green Chartreuse, curaçao, rum and Grand Marnier, set alight and drunk quickly through a straw, found infamy in the Nineties when a group of City boys – Jeffrey Archer’s son included – boisterously set fire to a car near the restaurant.

Serving up unpretentious Vietnamese cuisine since 1985, it was founded by Thai Dang, a folkloric character in his own right, whom diners would visit simply to be on the receiving end of his notoriously acidic tongue. Who else would refuse the patronage of Mick Jagger or Prince William? Dang passed away last year and his daughter Dzuyen took the reins, leading with a slightly less iron fist, but no less of a clever palate. She represents a new era for Nam Long and has set about launching a fresh, relaxed pan-Asian menu as her inaugural task.

After all, notoriety aside, Nam Long is still all about the food. The best idea is to order dishes to share and get stuck in as a steady stream flows from the kitchen. Start with sticky siu-yuk bao buns stuffed with crispy pork belly, fragrant coriander and pickled red cabbage that cuts through the meat superbly. Perfect parcels of har gow prawn dim sum will certainly please. Then opt for a steamed fillet of seabass with ginger and soy, which is as tender and savoury as can be and goes excellently with stir-fried garlicky beans. A salad of duck and pomelo is a nice addition to proceedings, with the ingredients working in unison, the sharp citrus complementing the gamey duck to perfection.

For a restaurant of such storied reputation, its unassuming facade comes over more like a neighbourhood local than a celebrity haunt.

The dining room, with its long bar, white-tiled floor and simply set tables, exudes a casual, homely atmosphere. The recently opened Opium Den bar downstairs brings a splash of modernity. Sultry in warming gold, red velvet and low lighting, it’s a great spot to explore the cocktail menu and you never know quite who you’ll run into.

An experience in itself, the cult classic Flaming Ferrari at $27 is worth sampling, though we suggest you tuck your hair back and share just the one. BG. 020 7373 1926, namlong.co.uk FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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PHUKET

Set on the less-visited north-west coast of Phuket island, this idyllic resort is nestled on the edge of a national park only about a 30-minute drive from the bustle of the capital. The powdery white sands and turquoise waters of Layan Beach are part of a secluded section of Bangtao Bay, where a warm breeze blows in from the Andaman Sea. From the moment you step inside, you’ll be ready for some serious relaxation.

There are 30 rooms and suites, as well as 47 pool villas, meaning plenty of choice. Decor is contemporary and sophisticated, with heavy oriental furniture and local art complemented by a clean colour palette with Southeast Asian accents. Private balconies and terraces draw the outside in, and views can be over the gardens, pool or sea.

Sun worshippers are in the perfect spot to while away their afternoons, stretched out on the beach or by the sprawling pool, which comes with Sunshine Butlers to furnish you with fresh fruit skewers and cooling face towels. The spa offers a full menu of Elemis and eastern treatments for exploring the various healing traditions. If you fancy getting more active, there’s plenty to get your pulse racing: kayaking, windsurfing

and sailing are all on the cards, tide permitting. You can finish up with a fine wine in one of the hosted tasting sessions too.

Restaurant Dee Plee specialises in northern cooking and its authentic dishes are a shining example of the nation’s fresh, zingy flavours. Chef Pitak Srichan also runs cookery classes on-site, guiding guests around the local market before letting them loose in the kitchen. His knowledge of ingredients inspires guests of all ages, as they create dishes like massaman curry and tom kha gai (spicy, creamy chicken soup). Infinity Bar is perfect for sipping on a cocktail and watching the sun set over the beach. GR. Doubles from $199, phuket-layan.anantara.com

Places

This month we hit the beach in sunny Phuket, Manchester. Then we salute Shakespeare

THE LANESBOROUGH LONDON Hyde Park Corner’s grande dame has just had a facelift, and it’s more than just a bit of nip and tuck.

A landmark period facade gives way to fine, oldschool Regency charm, which carries on throughout the 93-room hotel. Exquisitely redesigned by the late Alberto Pinto, British artistry is at the heart of the new look. A clever balance of bespoke upholstery, 114

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ornamental plasterwork, a flourish of gold-leaf and hand-painted trompe l’oeil crafted using age-old techniques creates a space of real elegance.

The suites are a palatial affair, with wood-panelled entrance halls, separate living areas and Italian marble bathrooms. Chandeliers, richly adorned kingsize beds and velvet armchairs are regal touches.

A strong food offering accompanies the gorgeous setting. The conservatory-style restaurant Céleste (pictured) acts as a mere backdrop to the stunning plates that emerge from the kitchen. Chef Florian Favario uses fresh British ingredients to create dishes influenced by his travels. The day boat cod simmered in a shitake bouillon with cocoa beans and coriander should not be missed. Neither should the dainty afternoon tea with homemade pastries. There are plenty of public spaces in which to unwind and there’s even a lushly planted Garden Room where you can sink into deep leather armchairs and sip on cognac with Cuban cigars from the walk-in humidor.

Shopping heaven at nearby Harvey Nichols and Harrods is just a short walk away – and be sure to ask your personal butler to sort the unpacking for you. DJ. Doubles from $825, lanesborough.com

Words by Lizzie Frainier; Blossom Green; Daniel Jankowski; Imogen Lepere; Gregor Rankin

ANANTARA LAYAN

Tried&Tasted SLEEP

Ritz Carlton

DUBAI

Dubai’s glorious weather makes it a great option for a winter getaway and the Ritz Carlton in the city’s lively Marina area is a top pick for settling down for some serious R&R. With three sizeable swimming pools, 350m of beach lapping the warm Persian Gulf and more restaurants than you can shake a stick at, this Arabian Nights-meets-hacienda-style property certainly ticks the boxes.

Set against the towering city skyline, a sweeping entrance off the area’s main hub, The Walk, transports guests into a sunlight-filled Moorish lobby. Water features are flush with petals, the tiled floors are intricate and the furnishings, elegant. A fresh, light and bright colour palette pervades throughout the bedrooms, which are spread across six floors. Creams, ocean blue and accents of gold offer cool respite from the heat of the day, while balconies provide panoramas of the glistening Gulf and Palm Jumeirah. Bathrooms are a spacious, marble dream stacked with Asprey products. The grounds offer plenty of options for lounging – pick from poolside loungers, palm-laden gardens or stretches of sandy beach. BG. Doubles from $575, ritzcarlton.com

to stay dip a toe into Dubai and go boutique in trendy near Stratford and look up a London landmark

The Velvet Hotel Manchester

On Canal Street, close the Northern Quarter, the Velvet is a boutique hotel with charisma. Rooms are individually designed, and no. 25 is equal parts style and frivolity, where moody mahogany furniture is complemented by plaid wallpaper and a mounted stag head that watches over the huge bed.

Throughout you’ll find exuberant art that radiates playfulness. A rose petal turndown or lavish bath butler service are nice touches, while eggs Benedict for breakfast is perfect to wake up to. LF. Doubles from $128, velvetmanchester.com

Gourmet bolthole

THE FUZZY DUCK, ARMSCOTE Where better to commemorate the 400th year of Shakespeare’s death than The Fuzzy Duck, a stone’s throw from Stratford-upon-Avon? The owners have transformed this former 18th-century blacksmith’s shop into a stylish pub, restaurant and hotel that makes an ideal base for exploring the bard’s hometown and the pristine Cotswolds countryside.

While away the afternoon with a jug of Mad Goose ale in the tartan armchairs by the fire or sniff out the connoisseurs’ cabinet, a refined collection of whiskies (including plenty of interesting Japanese), before moving into the airy dining room for a menu of seasonal dishes based on the Cotswolds’ luscious natural larder. Perfectly cooked scotch duck egg makes for a satisfying starter, while rump of lamb with crispy breast, niçoise potato and red wine sauce is a rich feast of tastes and textures.

There are just four luxurious bedrooms, all decorated in soothing shades of pearl and dove gray. King-size beds are cloud-like masses of silk, faux-fur and cotton, and if you fancy a nip there’s even a decanter of sherry on standby; reach for your Complete Works and it’s the sort of set-up that sees a lie-in last all day. IL. Doubles from $155, fuzzyduckarmscote.com

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Carême insider

curious case

The of Chef Michael Caines The charismatic Michelin-starred chef talks to Food and Travel about how a last-minute decision changed the course of his life Michael Caines was once referred to as ‘Wizard of the West’.

After all, his dazzling cooking skills earned him many an impressive accolade. The Queen of England honoured him with an MBE in 2006 for services to the hospitality industry. He was feted with AA’s Chef of the Year award in 2007. The Prime Minister invited him to cook in his home at 10 Downing Street. And, he received and maintained two Michelin stars as head chef of Gidleigh Park up until his exit early this year. Indeed, numerous remarkable feats. Much like a wizard, he only needed one arm to wave his wand of wizardry in the kitchen.

He lost his right arm in a car crash a few months into on his careerdefining job as head chef of Gidleigh Park back in 1994. Though, chances are you probably won’t even notice the prosthetic arm unless you knew about it. His professional story could well have ended here, but he rewrote it by getting back to work in two weeks.

It hit him that he had lost his arm, not his passion for cooking and ambition for succeeding at it. “The thought of losing everything I had worked for shook me. All that time I spent learning my trade; I wasn’t about to give all that up without a fight,” says Caines. With his family, friends and colleagues lending him their combined arms for support, there was no turning back.

Caines life is deeply connected with his home. It was where his culinary journey began. Adopted at three months by a loving family, Caines became the youngest of six children. His formative years were spent helping his mum in the kitchen, preparing Sunday roasts and baking cakes. He loved cooking, but had no intention of pursuing it as a career. Well, mostly because he didn’t know he could. “I had planned on going into the military or the marines. But when I found out I could earn a living doing what I loved (cooking), I decided to become a chef. During the last term of college, as a last-minute decision, I enrolled into the Exeter Catering College.”

But there was an alternative ending to this story. He also pondered upon becoming an architect. “I was fascinated by design so I thought of taking up architecture. But it involved a lot of studying, which I wasn’t too interested in!” Architecture’s loss is our gain.

His boundless passion for cooking continued its role as his life’s driving force. Once back in the kitchen, he instantly picked up the reins and not only managed to retain Gidleigh Park’s one Michelin star, but acquired a second four years later. “Receiving a Michelin star meant a lot; especially after the accident. Michelin recognises your work in terms of quality as they are

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Words by Ruchika Vyas Images: Food and Travel, David Griffin 118

judging good service and great food. It keeps you motivated to work better, urging you to continuously improve and evolve as a chef.”

That and a heavy dose of optimism. “I am very practical. I think one needs to change their mind-set when something like that (the accident) happens. It is crucial to stay positive. In so many ways, it humbled me,” he says casually. The chef in him stayed the same.

He cooks, cuts and cleans just the way he used to. “My cooking is unhampered, unabated. It just taught me to be more patient. To be a good cook, a chef needs to share the vision of the diner, and deliver the best. There’s no point in having an empty restaurant decked with Michelin stars.”

Perhaps his most valuable learning lessons came from his mentor Chef Raymond Blanc, when he worked at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire for three years, right after he graduated from Exeter Catering College. “Raymond was an inspiration. Being a self-taught chef, he has no boundaries when it comes to cooking. I learned how to express my own style through my cooking; I learned about seasonality of dishes, how to use the different ingredients of each season. Raymond has a great palate for food. He helped me realise my full potential. Even today, we have an endearing friendship.” It was this very friend that recommended him for the job at Gidleigh Park; one that he kept for 21 years before hanging up the apron earlier this year. “After spending over two decades at Gidleigh Park, I was comfortable enough to move on towards my very own venture.” Set to be unveiled in the Spring of 2017, he is working on

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transforming a Georgian country house into a hotel and restaurant overlooking the Exe estuary in Lympstone, Devon, his home county, where he can realise his vision of modern country house hospitality for the 21st century.

These past two decades were full of culinary adventures for Caines whose work was spread throughout Britain. A chance meeting with Andrew Brownsword led to the creation of ABode Hotels in partnership. Then came the grand opening of Michael Caines restaurants at the Marriott Royal Hotel in Bristol, and the Royal Clarence Hotel in Exeter. Several eponymous restaurants followed in Glasgow, Canterbury, Chester and Manchester. Last year, he opened his first flagship restaurant outside the UK in Jumeirah at Etihad Towers Abu Dhabi called Pearls by Michael Caines.

Even though he has mastered European cuisine with flair and finesse, it’s not his chosen cuisine when he goes out dining. “I eat food I don’t cook. I like Asian food, be it Japanese, Thai or Indian.

I love the simple street food in Singapore. I want to learn about Japanese cooking; I love the precision and delicateness with which its dishes are constructed. I want to learn more about Indian food as well.” As a chef, surely he must be nit-picky with his food; pointing out the flaws in its cooking. “I prefer substance over style. I think simple dishes done well are the best. But I never point the finger of disapproval. It is not my place to criticise someone else’s food.” Not even his partner’s cooking at home, I ask. “Never. I endure it!” he says with a laugh.

THE

COLLECTION

For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use sustainably and locally produced ingredients if possible. Eggs should always be free-range.

1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml

In season – Chicory pages 44-49

Sweet and sour chicory with seared beef fillet SERVES 2-3

2tbsp olive oil 2 x 150g beef fillet 3 medium yellow chicory, approx 175g each 5tsp caster sugar 1tbsp white balsamic vinegar 10g salted butter 2tbsp toasted hazelnuts, crushed roughly with a little salt and pepper 5g chives, finely chopped

Put ½tbsp of the oil in a wide bowl with a grinding of pepper and some salt, add the fillets and season the top side then move them in the oil to coat evenly 30 minutes before cooking.

Heat a griddle pan until just smoking and add the steaks, lower the heat a little and sear for 3 minutes one side and 2 minutes the other. Put on a plate and cover loosely with foil to rest while preparing the chicory.

Shave a thin slice off the root end of the chicories so all the

leaves are left attached and slice in half lengthways. Heat a frying pan large enough to take them all in a single layer. Add the sugar, the rest of the oil and the chicory cut side down and over a medium heat and let them cook for 5 minutes until golden.

Turn them over and cook for a further 2 minutes. Add the white balsamic vinegar to the frying pan to deglaze (do this off the heat as it will suddenly boil furiously).

Put back on the heat and when it bubbles, add the butter and cook for a few seconds until you get a slightly thickened syrupy sauce then remove from the heat.

Mix the hazelnuts and chives together. Slice the steak and arrange on plates with the chicory.

Spoon over the sweet and sour sauce and scatter with hazelnuts and chives.

Chicory, turkey ham and parmesan gratin SERVES 2-4

Make in 2 separate gratin dishes or pie tins, or 1 larger dish.

4 yellow chicory 60g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing 1tbsp olive oil juice of a small lemon 4 slices turkey ham, approx 225g 300ml crème fraîche 30g freshly grated parmesan

Thinly trim the root ends from the chicory keeping the leaves intact.

Melt the butter in a heavy-based, lidded saucepan large enough to hold the chicory in a single layer.

Add the chicory and fry until it turns golden on all sides. Take it off the heat, add the olive oil,

lemon juice and 100ml water and sprinkle over a little salt. Cover and on a low to medium heat let the chicory poach for 8-10 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4. Grease an ovenproof, shallow, rectangular gratin dish or dishes. Tear half the ham into the bottom of the dish and drain the chicory using a slotted spoon as you place them in the dish in a single layer, leaving as much liquid behind as possible. Tear and tuck the rest of the ham around and in between your chicory.

Put the crème fraîche in a pan and bring to a simmer, then gently heat for 4 minutes on a very low heat. Stir in 25g of the parmesan and nappe (coat) the chicory.

Scatter with the rest of the grated parmesan and a grinding of black pepper. Bake for 10-15 minutes until golden.

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RECIPES

Chicken dinner pages 82-87

Warm goat’s cheese, chicory and red pear salad with ciabatta toasts SERVES 4

Grilled chicory with freekeh, smoked mackerel and red chicory marmalade SERVES 4

Freekeh is cracked green wheat that has a light, smoky flavour. Buy it in Middle Eastern stores, where you’ll also find urfa pepper flakes.

150g freekeh 2tbsp olive oil 1tsp vegetable bouillon powder 1 large smoked mackerel 4 small yellow chicory, cut in half lengthways 2 small lemons, halved 1tsp urfa pepper flakes

For the chicory marmalade 3 small red chicory, thinly sliced 3tbsp caster sugar 2tbsp white balsamic vinegar

Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/ Gas 6. Tip the freekeh onto a tray and sort through the grains to remove any grit and husks. Wash in a sieve really well and drain until surface dry.

Put half the oil in a heavy ovenproof casserole and add the freekeh, stir to coat the grains in the oil. Add the bouillon powder, a pinch of salt and 300ml boiling water. Stir well, bring up to a simmer, cover and put in the oven for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and fork over to separate 120

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the grains, re-cover and leave to rest so that all of the water is absorbed. While the freekeh is cooking, make the marmalade.

Put the finely sliced chicory, sugar and vinegar in a medium saucepan and stir together. Cover and place over a low heat and cook for 5 minutes. Remove lid and cook for a further 10 minutes until the liquid evaporates and the mixture turns sticky (stir frequently to make sure it doesn’t burn).

Either flake the mackerel or cut it into 4-6 pieces, retaining the golden skin if wished and put aside.

Preheat the grill to high and place the oven rack 15cm from the heat. Put the chicory and lemon halves on a flat oven tray lined with foil and toss with the remaining olive oil. Grill for about 8 minutes turning the chicory 3 times during grilling. It’s okay to have blackened bits, but it should be watched so that it doesn’t totally char. Remove the lemon during grilling once it chars.

Spoon the marmalade into the freekeh and fold in gently. Add the mackerel and serve with the grilled chicory and the lemon halves.

Dust with the urfa pepper flakes.

1 mini ciabatta loaf, thinly sliced 1tsp Dijon mustard pinch caster sugar 1tbsp white balsamic vinegar 1tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2tbsp olive oil, plus 1tsp for the cheese 2 x 150g Kidderton Ash goat’s cheese logs 2 just-ripe Red William pears 2 small red and 2 small yellow chicory 75g watercress leaves 50g red vein sorrel leaves assorted micro leaves

Preheat the grill to high and set the rack 15cm from the heat. Grill the thinly sliced ciabatta until pale golden and set aside. Make a dressing with the mustard, sugar and vinegar shaken together in a screw-topped jar; add the extra virgin olive oil and the olive oil and shake the jar to emulsify.

Cut each goat’s cheese log into 6 slices and lay on a flat, foil-lined tray, grind over a little black pepper and spoon over 1tsp olive oil. Grill them on one side for around 4 minutes until golden.

Slice the pears into 8-12 wedges off the core. Slice the chicory into 2cm slices across and keep in rosette shapes, if you can.

Arrange the watercress, sorrel and micro leaves on serving plates and add the pears, chicory and goat’s cheese slices. Spoon over some dressing and serve with the ciabatta toasts.

Blackened Cajun chicken with sweet potato wedges and gremolata sauce SERVES 4

For the chicken 4 large chicken breasts ½ cup melted butter 1 tsp ground thyme 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp celery salt 1,5 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp paprika, preferably smoked 1–2 tsp cayenne pepper ½ tsp ground dry mustard ½ tsp ground white pepper 1 tsp ground black pepper

Butterfly chicken breasts cutting them down the center. Preheat the grill, close the lid and allow it to become as hot as possible. In a bowl stir all spices. Place the chicken in a shallow baking dish, pour melted butter over the meat, gently rubbing it in. Keep 1 tblsp of the spice mix for the sweet potato. Sprinkle the rest of spices over the chicken, ensuring all the chicken is well coated. Place chicken in the hot grill, then turn the heat dome immediately to the lowest setting. Allow to cook for 5-6 minutes. Turn chicken, allowing it to cook evenly until cooked through.

Alternatively you can also cook the chicken in a very hot (250–300 °C) oven with the grill turned on.

RECIPES For the potatoes 3–4 large sweet potatoes ½ cup melted butter 1 tblsp cajun spices mix salt

Preheat the oven to 220–230 °C. Wash the sweet potatoes and boil (whole, unpeeled) in slightly salted water for 20 min. Put under cold running water for 2–3 min., then peel and cut into thick wedges.

Cover the wedges with melted butter, sprinkle with spices. Bake in the center of the oven until slightly brown should take about 10–15 min.

Baked chicken with fruit SERVES 4

For the gremolata sauce 1 large bunch of parsley (90–100 g) 1 lemon 1–2 cloves of garlic 6 tblsp olive oil salt

Crush, peel and mince the garlic.

Carefully wash, dry, zest and juice the lemon. Chop the parsley really fine, add garlic, lemon zest and mince again. Add olive oil and lemon juice, mix well.

To serve: Preheat the plates. Serve each chicken breast with 8–10 sweet potato wedges and a spoonful of sauce in a small terrine.

4 chicken drumsticks 4 chicken thighs 4 chicken wings 1 large pear 1 large green apple 1 quince 200g large white seedless grapes juice and zest of 1 lemon olive oil salt, freshly ground black pepper mint leaves for garnish

Rub all the chicken with salt, pepper and olive oil and let it sit for 20–30 min. Preheat the oven to 160 °C. Core and cut all the fruit into thick wedges (except the grapes), put into the baking dish, then add the grapes. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and lemon zest, drizzle with lemon juice and olive oil. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate for 30–35 min.

Heat oil in a large frying-pan over a high heat, fry the chicken pieces until golden brown. Place the chicken on top of the fruit and bake for 25–30 min. Serve very hot, garnished with mint leaves.

Moroccan chicken with lemons, oranges and olives SERVES 4-6

1 medium chicken 2 cups chicken broth (or water) 1 lemon 1 orange 1 cup green olives olive oil 1 large onion 3 garlic cloves 2 tbsp dry white wine 1 tbsp ground paprika 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger salt, freshly ground black pepper pomegranate seeds and coriander leaves for decoration

Peel the onion, halve the thinly slice. Crush, peel and mince the garlic.

Heat the oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, sprinkle with salt and pepper, fry until golden brown. Add garlic and spices, fry for 1 minute. Add the broth, and bring to the boil.

Add the chicken, orange and lemon wedges. Cover, then reduce the heat to medium-low, simmer until chicken is cooked through, turning twice (25–30 mins.)

Transfer chicken to platter.

Add olives and wine to skillet.

Increase the heat to high and boil for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over chicken, sprinkle with pomegranate seeds and coriander leaves and serve.

Cut the chicken into 8 pieces, rub with salt and pepper.

Boil whole lemon and orange in 2 litres of water with 4 tblsp salt for 10 minutes. Cool and cut each into 8 wedges.

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RECIPES

Spanish orange saffron chicken with salsa verde and citrus roasted pepper salad SERVES 4-6

For salsa verde 1 small bunch of parsley 1 small bunch of basil 1 small bunch of mint 2 garlic cloves 3 anchovy fillets 2 tsp capers 1 tsp mustard ½ tsp lemon juice ½ tsp sugar 2 tbsp olive oil salt, freshly ground black pepper Strip all leaves from stalks. Crush, peel and finely chop the garlic and herbs together, then add the anchovies and capers and continue chopping until everything is well mixed.

Combine the mustard, lemon juice, sugar, salt and pepper with the herb mix.

Stir in the olive oil a little at a time, until you have a thick, glossy consistency.

For the salad 5 large red bell peppers 2 large oranges zest and juice of ½ lemon 2 tblsp capers olive oil salt, freshly ground black pepper Preheat the oven to 250 °C. Cut 122

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the peppers lengthwise and core.

Pour olive oil on a baking sheet and place the peppers, cut side up on the oil. Turn the peppers over, season with salt and pepper, and roast in the oven for 20 minutes. Place the peppers in a bowl, and cover with plastic wrap.

Set aside to cool for 30 minutes.

Next remove the skins. Slice the peppers and arrange them on a plate.

Cut the top and bottom off the oranges. Set your knife where the white pith meets the flesh and cut it downward in a curved motion following the shape of the orange.

Lastly cut out the individual slices of the orange into individual segments.

Mix the peppers with the orange segments and the capers, sprinkle with lemon zest, salt and pepper, drizzle with lemon juice and olive oil.

For the chicken 12 chicken drumsticks juice and zest of 2 oranges 5–7 saffron threads olive oil salt, freshly ground black pepper Pour 3 tblsp boiling water over the saffron threads and let it stand for 10 minutes.

Mix the orange zest, juice, saffron water, 2 tblsp olive oil, salt and pepper. Rub this mix into chicken drumsticks, cover with plastic wrap and leave to marinate overnight in the fridge. Bring to room temperature, pat dry with kitchen paper and deep-fry in olive oil until fully cooked. Again pat dry on kitchen paper.

To serve: Preheat the plates. Place 2–3 drumsticks on each plate, along with some citrus pepper salad.

Drizzle with olive oil. Serve with a spoonful of the sauce on the side.

Chicken and prawns meatballs with cardamom rice and peanut sauce SERVES 4-6

For the sauce ½ cup creamy peanut butter 1 medium knob of fresh ginger 1 garlic clove 2 tblsp soy sauce 1 tbsp fresh lime juice 1 tsp brown sugar ½ tsp dried chili flakes salt, according to taste

Peel the ginger and garlic. With the blender running, drop in the ginger and a peeled clove of garlic clove and blend until finely chopped. Add peanut butter, soy sauce, lime juice, brown sugar, red pepper flakes, and 1/3 cup of water, and blend, adding more water by the tablespoonful if required to thin, until smooth. Add salt, according to taste.

This sauce will keep in the fridge for 6–7 days.

For the rice 2 cups basmati rice 10 cardamom pods 2 tblsp clarified butter salt Heat the clarified butter with cardamom pods and a pinch of salt in a large pot. Add rice and stir well. Pour 3 cups of boiling water, cover, bring to boil and cook over high heat for 3 minutes, then reduce to a medium heat for 7 minutes, then reduce to a low heat for 2 further minutes. Remove from the heat, cover the pot with a warm towel or cloth and let the rice rest for 20 minutes.

For the meatballs 500g chicken (skinless and boneless thighs or breasts or 50/50) 350–400g fresh prawns 1 medium knob of fresh ginger 4 garlic cloves 2 eggs ½ cup Panko breadcrumbs ½ tsp dried chili flakes 4 tblsp soy sauce peanut oil salt, freshly ground black pepper sesame seeds green onion sprigs for garnish Preheat the oven to 220 ºC. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Peel the prawns. Cut the chicken into medium size pieces. Mince the chicken into a fine paste.

Finely chop the prawns with a heavy knife. Next peel and finely grate the garlic and ginger.

In a large bowl, combine the minced chicken and prawns, garlic, eggs, panko, garlic and ginger, soy sauce, chili, salt and pepper. Use your hands to mix all the ingredients together. It’s easier to tell when he ingredients are combined when using your hands.

Oil your hands, shape the mixture into balls the size of a large walnut. Place shaped meatballs on the prepared baking sheet.

Sprinkle with sesame seeds and bake for 11–13 minutes, or until the meatballs are completely cooked.

To serve: Preheat your serving bowls, then put in some of the rice, and then the meatballs, drizzle with peanut sauce and chopped green onions, and serve with some sauce on the side.

RECIPES

Street feast pages 96-99

Chicken in Tikka Masala marinate SERVES 6

Chicken pilaf with herbs and eggs SERVES 6

For the sauce 400g Greek / Turkish yogurt 4 cloves garlic 2–3 mint sprigs salt, freshly ground black pepper Strip the mint leaves from their stalks. Crush, peel and finely chop the garlic and mint together and add to the yoghurt, then sprinkle with salt and pepper, mix. Cover with plastic wrap and let it stand in the fridge for 2 hours.

For the pilaf 6 large or 12 medium chicken thighs 6 small eggs 3 cups basmati rice 300g fresh herbs (dill, parsley, tarragon, mint) 200g clarified butter 1 tsp ground turmeric salt, freshly ground black pepper Rub the chicken thighs with salt, pepper and turmeric; and let stand for 1 hour. Cover the rice with cold water with a pinch of salt, leave for 1 hour.

Strip all the leaves from the stalks.

Chop the leaves. Then boil 5 litres salted water in a large pot. Drain

the rice and put it into the boiling water, bring to the boil again and cook stirring from time to time, for 5 minutes. Add chopped herbs, stir and immediately drain the rice.

Preheat the oven to 180 °C. Butter 6 large individual ramekins (or small pots). Heat some butter in a large griddle pan and fry the chicken pieces until golden brown on all sides and transfer to the ramekins.

Cover the chicken with rice, pour over the butter, cover with a lid or aluminum foil and bake in the oven for 15 minutes. Then remove from the oven, then use a spoon to make a well in rice, drizzle with butter and carefully brake an egg into each well. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, pour over some butter, and cover with rice and the remaining butter. Recover and return the ramekins to the oven.

Reduce the temperature in the oven to 120 °C, and bake for 1 hour.

To serve: Serve the pilaf in the ramekins with the sauce on the side, or you can carefully remove the egg from the pilaf and cut it lengthwise. Then place the rice on the preheated plates, top with chicken and egg and serve.

4 whole chicken legs 200g yoghurt 3 cloves of garlic 2 cm of ginger 1 tblsp ground turmeric 1 tblsp ground coriander 1 tblsp paprika 1 tsp cumin 1 tsp cardamom 1 tsp nutmeg 1 tsp cayenne pepper Salt and pepper to taste.

Olive oil for frying With a sharp knife, cut the chicken legs crosswise, 2-4 cuts. Rub with salt and pepper. Mix the yoghurt with all the spices, garlic and ginger in a large bowl. Transfer the chicken to the bowl and rub with marinade. Cover the bowl with cling wrap or foil and put to rest in a fridge for a minimum of 4 hours or overnight.

In a heavy bottom skillet, heat 4-5 tblsp of olive oil. Fry for 1 minute on each side until golden, and then reduce the heat to low.

Cook, rotating the legs from time to time, appx 25-30 minute or until done.

Pani puri pops SERVES 8-12

You can buy the puri shells, if you like, because this dish is really all about the filling.

280g plain flour, plus extra to dust 100g semolina a large pinch of bicarbonate of soda sunflower or vegetable oil, for deep-frying

For the tamarind sherbert (pani) 1tsp ground cumin 200ml tamarind pulp, or 1tbsp tamarind concentrate 1tsp dried mango powder (amchoor) ½tsp salt 3cm piece of root ginger 1tbsp fresh mint leaves, finely chopped 1tbsp fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped

For the potato filling 150g potatoes, peeled and diced into 5mm cubes 200g chickpeas, drained and rinsed ½ red onion, finely chopped ¼tsp chilli powder ¼tsp ground turmeric a pinch of chaat powder

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RECIPES To serve Sweet Date Chutney and Daniya (see recipes, right) 2tbsp sev (fried chickpea/ gram noodles) natural soya yoghurt pomegranate molasses fresh coriander leaves fresh pomegranate seeds

Put the flour in a bowl and add the semolina, bicarbonate of soda and a large pinch of salt. Add 400-600ml water, a little at a time, to make a stiff dough. Knead and then leave to rest for at least 15 minutes and preferably 30 minutes.

On a flour-dusted surface, roll out the dough to about 3mm thick. Using a 4cm cookie cutter, cut out about 24 small round puri discs.

Heat the oil in a wok or large, heavy pan until hot but not smoking. Gently slide 3-4 puri into the wok, using a ladle to press down gently and make them puff up. Once puffed and crisp, remove using a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Let cool.

To make the tamarind sherbet, toast the cumin in a dry pan over medium heat for 30 seconds, stirring occasionally, to release the aroma. Put the toasted cumin in a bowl with the other sherbet ingredients and 125ml water.

Using a stick blender, process until smooth. Add 400ml water, and blend again. Chill for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, boil the potatoes in water for 15 minutes or until tender. Drain and mix with the remaining filling ingredients. Add salt to taste.

Using a small, sharp knife, crack a small hole in the centre of each puri. Fill with the potato filling, then add ¼tsp each of chutney and daniya. Pour in the tamarind sherbet (a squeezy bottle is useful for this). Top with sev, and drizzle with soya yoghurt and pomegranate molasses.

Scatter over coriander leaves and pomegranate seeds, to serve.

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Sweet date chutney

Simple Sambal (see recipe, right), to serve

Using a pastry brush, moisten the outside edge of the pastry round with water. Add 1tsp of the filling to the centre and, holding the pastry in the palm of one hand, use the other hand to fold it over to form a half-moon shape, and then crimp the edges by making little folds with your thumb.

Repeat steps with the remaining pastry wrappers.

Heat the groundnut oil in a pan over high heat. Put the dumplings in the hot pan and cook until the underneath starts to turn golden brown. Add 145ml cold water, and quickly cover with a lid. Steam the dumplings for about 7-10 minutes (depending on the size of dumpling and the thickness of pastry) until they are translucent.

Serve with Simple Sambal.

For the filling

Simple sambal

MAKES 250G

1tsp ground cumin 1tsp chilli powder 10 fresh Medjool dates, stoned and chopped 1tbsp tamarind pulp 3tbsp soft dark brown sugar

Toast the cumin and chilli powder in a dry pan over medium heat for 30 seconds, stirring occasionally, to release the aroma.

Add the remaining ingredients with 125ml water. Bring to the boil and cook until the dates soften completely. Add more water if the mixture is dry, then simmer until the sauce forms a jam-like consistency. Let cool, and then store in a sterilised airtight jar in the fridge for up to 8 weeks.

Daniya MAKES 400ML

2 bunches fresh coriander a bunch fresh mint leaves 200ml coconut milk 4-8 small green chillies, to taste, trimmed freshly squeezed juice of ½ lemon ½tbsp caster sugar ¼ onion ¼tsp salt

Put all the ingredients in a food processor or blender and process until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt as needed.

Cover and store in the fridge for up to 1 week until needed.

Wild mushroom and nasturtium momos MAKES 15-20

200g ‘00’ flour, plus extra to dust 1tbsp groundnut or vegetable oil

1½tsp sesame oil 1 onion, finely chopped 5cm piece of root ginger, peeled and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 200g wild mushrooms or chestnut and/or oyster mushrooms, chopped 150g firm tofu, crumbled 1tbsp fresh coriander, finely chopped 200g nasturtium leaves, thinly sliced 1-2tsp light soy sauce, to taste ½tsp salt 2 pinches ground white pepper

Put the flour and a pinch of salt in a bowl and gradually stir in a little water (about 120ml) to make a stiff dough. Knead well for 5-10 minutes and leave to rest for 30 minutes.

To make the filling, add the sesame oil to a deep frying pan over medium heat, then add the onion, ginger and garlic, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms to the pan, and cook for 5 minutes more. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. The nasturtium leaves will wilt immediately, and do not need further cooking. Set aside to cool.

Dust a work surface with flour.

Roll out the dough thinly to about 3mm thick. Using a 7.5cm cookie cutter, cut out small round discs.

MAKES 400ML

500g large red chillies, trimmed 1 garlic bulb, separated in cloves, unpeeled 2tbsp light soy sauce, or tamari 1tbsp Shaoxing grape or dry sherry (optional) 2tbsp maple syrup, or to taste 2tbsp soft dark brown sugar, or to taste 1tsp salt, or to taste 125ml sunflower or vegetable oil 2 baking sheets, greased

Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/ Gas 7. Lay chillies on one baking sheet and the garlic cloves on another. Bake the chillies for 10-15 minutes until they are well roasted and starting to blacken at the edges. Bake the garlic for 8-10 minutes until golden brown and sticky.

Peel the garlic cloves and then put all the ingredients in a food processor or blender and blend to make a smooth paste. Adjust the seasoning of maple syrup, sugar and salt to taste.

This is a very spicy sauce, but it should have a sweet edge. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 4 weeks.

RECIPES

Nasi lemak SERVES 3-4

Gado-gado SERVES 4–6

150g small new potatoes, quartered 2 large carrots, cut into sticks 150g fine green beans, cut into 4cm lengths 75g cauliflower florets 350g tempeh or firm tofu, cut into 1cm slices 2tbsp light soy sauce or tamari 2tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for shallow-frying 1 small red onion, thinly sliced (optional) ½ cucumber, halved lengthways 60g beansprouts

For the gado-gado sauce (sambal kacang) 300g roasted peanuts or crunchy peanut butter 2 garlic cloves, crushed 400ml coconut milk 1tbsp dried red chilli flakes, or 1tsp hot chilli powder 1tsp garam masala 7.5cm piece of fresh turmeric, peeled, or ½tsp ground turmeric 1-2tsp soft brown sugar, to taste (omit if using roasted peanuts) 1tbsp dark soy sauce 2tbsp tamarind water, or lime or lemon juice ½tsp salt, or to taste

Boil the potatoes in water to cover for 8 minutes or until tender, then drain. Boil a separate large pan of water. Plunge the carrots, green beans and cauliflower in the water and blanch for 2 minutes, then drain in a colander and set aside

to cool. Marinate the tempeh or tofu in the soy sauce for 5 minutes. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat and fry the tempeh until golden. Drain on paper towels.

If using the red onion, heat oil for shallow-frying in the frying pan over medium-high heat and fry the onion slices until they are crispy and golden. Drain on paper towels. Using a teaspoon, scrape out the watery seeds from the centre of the cucumber. Slice the flesh into sticks and set aside.

To make the gado-gado sauce, put the peanuts in a food processor or blender and add the garlic, half the coconut milk, the chilli flakes, garam masala, turmeric and sugar (omit if using peanut butter) and blend until a smooth consistency.

Put the mixture in a small pan over medium-low heat and combine with the remaining coconut milk, the dark soy sauce and tamarind water, then heat gently, stirring occasionally.

Simmer gently for 7 minutes. Add a little salt to taste, and more sugar or chilli flakes if needed.

It should be sweet and spicy with a savoury depth.

To serve, put the vegetables, cucumber, beansprouts and tempeh onto a serving plate, and pour over some of the warm peanut sauce. Garnish with the crispy fried onions, if using. The peanut sauce will keep for up to 1 week in the fridge.

3 pandan leaves 400g jasmine rice 400ml coconut milk

For the paste 5 large dried red chillies 100ml vegetable oil 2 small red onions, roughly chopped 2 large red chillies, finely chopped 4cm piece of galangal, peeled and finely chopped, or 1tsp ground galangal 2tbsp vegan fish sauce or light soy sauce and a pinch of seaweed flakes 8-10 macadamia nuts

For the tempeh sambal 1tbsp vegetable or groundnut oil 2 small red onions, finely chopped 100g smoked tempeh, roughly chopped 2tbsp vegan fish sauce, or tamari 65g soft brown sugar 1tbsp tamarind pulp or paste, or ½tsp tamarind concentrate mixed with a little water 1tsp salt

For the accompaniments 500ml vegetable oil, for frying 1 banana shallot, sliced into rings 2-3tbsp peanuts 3-4 banana leaves or 12 pandan leaves, to serve (optional) lime wedges, to serve

Tie the pandan leaves together in a knot and put them in a rice steamer with the rice, coconut

milk, 200ml water and 1tsp salt.

Mix well, then cook according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Alternatively, bring to the boil in a pan and simmer for 8 minutes or until the rice is almost cooked, then remove the pan from the heat. Cover the pan with a clean dish towel and replace the lid.

Leave to stand for 10-12 minutes.

Once cooked, remove the leaves and fluff up the rice with a fork.

Cover and set aside.

For the paste, put the dried chillies in a bowl, cover with hot water and let soak for 10-12 minutes. Drain. Put all the paste ingredients in a food processor and blend to a smooth paste.

To make the sambal, heat the oil in a wok, and fry the paste gently until the oil starts to separate. Add the red onions and cook until they start to soften, then add the remaining sambal ingredients and mix well. Cook gently for 20 minutes.

For the accompaniments, heat the oil in a wok or pan over medium heat. Add the shallot rings and fry until crispy and brown, then remove and drain on paper towels. Toast the peanuts in a dry pan over medium heat for 1-2 minutes, stirring, until golden.

To serve, line each plate with a banana leaf or pandan leaves, if using. Scoop the rice into an individual portion-sized domeshaped bowl and press down, then turn it out onto the leaves.

Repeat with the other servings.

Place a large spoonful of the sambal to one side of the rice.

Add a small scoop of peanuts and sliced cucumber (preferably pickled) to the other side. Finish with the crispy shallot rings on top.

Serve with lime wedges.

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RECIPES

Big in Japan pages 76-81

Tendon

golden and cooked through, then drain on paper towels. Raise the temperature of the oil to 180C/350F. Holding the prawns by their tails, dip them in the batter one at a time and deep-fry until golden and just cooked, then drain on paper towel.

Serve the rice in large individual bowls, dressed with 1tbsp of the sauce. Place some shredded nori and the tempura on the rice, then drizzle over another 2tbsp of the sauce.

SERVES 4

8 large raw prawns ¼ white sweet potato ½ green pepper ½ aubergine vegetable oil, for deep-frying 4 bowls of cooked rice 1 sheet nori seaweed, shredded

For the sauce 2 handfuls katsuobushi (dried bontio flakes) 100ml soy sauce 100ml mirin 2tbsp raw demerara sugar 4cm x 4cm piece kombu seaweed 360ml water

For the tempura batter 1 egg 125ml very cold water 75g plain (all-purpose) flour

Place all the sauce ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Cook on a low heat for 15 minutes, then strain. You can keep this sauce in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

For the tempura batter, break the egg into a large bowl. Mix well with the water, then add the flour and lightly mix, leaving it slightly lumpy – this makes for a crispy batter. Set aside in the fridge.

Peel and devein the prawns, leaving the tail intact. Cut along the back and a little along the front so the prawns stay flat when they’re cooked. Cut the sweet potato into 6mm slices, and the pepper and aubergine into 4 pieces. Heat the oil in a saucepan to 170C/325F. Dip the vegetables in the batter and deep-fry until 126

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Miso-simmered mackerel SERVES 4

8 mackerel fillets (4, if they are large) 350ml water 150ml sake 2½tbsp mirin 2tbsp soy sauce 2½tbsp sugar 3tbsp miso

For the garnish (optional) leek and ginger, cut into very thin matchsticks

Place the mackerel fillets in a large frying pan in a single layer. Add all the other ingredients except the miso and bring to the boil.

Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 6 minutes, spooning the sauce over the mackerel from time to time and skimming as needed. Scoop 4 spoonfuls of the sauce into a bowl and blend in the miso, stirring to dissolve, then pour back into the pan.

Reduce the sauce, continuing to cook on a low heat for about 10 minutes – watch it, to make sure the sauce doesn’t burn.

Serve on individual plates, drizzled with the sauce. If you like, garnish with leek and ginger.

Meat bento

Tonkatsu

SERVES 1

SERVES 4

1 piece Tonkatsu (see right) 2 eggs ¼ onion 50ml dashi (see duck recipe, right) or water 1tsp sugar 2tsp mirin 1tbsp soy sauce 1 bowl of cooked rice shichimi spice mixture Pickled Cucumber, to serve (see recipe, right)

4 rounded tbsp plain flour 2 eggs, beaten 50g panko breadcrumbs 4 slices veal (collar), or veal, about 2cm thick vegetable oil, for frying tonkatsu sauce (mix 3tbsp Worcestershire sauce, 3tbsp tomato ketchup, 1tbsp oyster sauce, 1tsp sugar and 1tsp lemon juice)

The main component is a meat omelette. When you have made the tonkatsu (right), slice it into 2cm strips. Break the eggs into a bowl and mix. Peel and cut the onion into 5mm slices. Add the dashi and onion to a small frying pan and bring to the boil on a medium heat. Add the sugar, mirin and soy sauce, and continue cooking until the onion is tender.

Add the tonkatsu and cook for another 2 minutes, then add the eggs. Once the eggs start to set, cover and cook for another 30 seconds. Remove from the heat but leave the lid on for a few moments to let the eggs finish cooking (so still a little runny).

Serve the rice in a bento box.

Carefully slide the omelette onto the rice, then sprinkle with shichimi and add the cucumber.

Place flour, eggs and panko in separate bowls. Dip the veal first in the flour, then the egg, then the panko (press firmly with hands).

Take a frying pan large enough to fit all the pieces, or cook in batches. Pour in 2cm depth of oil and heat to 170C/325F. Add veal and cook for 3 minutes each side until golden brown.

Drain on paper towels, cut into 2cm strips. Drizzle with tonkatsu sauce to serve.

Pickled cucumber 3cm cucumber, thinly sliced on the diagonal 1tsp salt 1cm piece kombu seaweed 1 thin slice ginger, cut into matchsticks

Combine in a small bowl and marinate until ready to serve.

RECIPES

Modern east pages 64-68

Sea bream sashimi salad SERVES 4

Soba with duck breast SERVES 4

300g duck breast 2 leeks (white part) 2tsp vegetable oil 350-400g soba noodles 5cm white radish (daikon), or ½ black radish, peeled and grated 4 pieces yuzu zest

For the soup 1.2 litres dashi (see right) 5tbsp soy sauce 5tbsp mirin

Cut the duck breast into 6mm slices, and the leeks into 3cm lengths. Heat the oil in a saucepan, and add the leeks.

Cook, stirring, on a high heat, until the parts in contact with the saucepan are well browned – they don’t need to be cooked through at this stage.

Add the slices of duck and cook briefly on both sides. When the meat changes colour, add the soup ingredients. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and let the soup simmer for about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the soba noodles according to the packet instructions. Drain the noodles and divide them between four large bowls. Pour over the soup.

Arrange the slices of duck and leeks on top. Garnish with the grated radish and yuzu zest.

Dashi

Dashi is the essential base stock of Japanese cuisine. It is used in particular to make miso soup, in combination with miso paste.

You can freeze dashi in zip-lock freezer bags or ice-cube trays and take out the amount you need whenever you want. Make sure you seal the packet of bonito shavings well after opening because it easily absorbs humidity and odours. If you use instant dashi, try to find one without amino acids or glutamates. Dilute with water according to the quantities indicated on the packet.

1 litre water 10g kombu seaweed 10g katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)

Place the water in a saucepan.

Cut the kombu into 2 pieces and add to the water, then leave to soak for at least 30 minutes in the fridge. You can do this the night before or a few hours ahead of time. Heat the water on a low heat until it just comes to a simmer, about 15 minutes. Don’t let it boil, or the seaweed flavour will be too strong. Take out the kombu just before the stock comes to the boil and add the katsuobushi all at once. Bring to the boil on a medium heat, then turn off the heat immediately. Let it infuse for 10 minutes. Strain the dashi into a bowl. Let the dashi drip through, pressing lightly.

½ onion 3cm leek (white part) ½ turnip ¼ carrot ½ cucumber ½ white radish (daikon) 2 sashimi-grade sea bream fillets choice of herbs, eg mint, dill, coriander 1tbsp peanuts, toasted and roughly chopped

For the dressing 2tbsp peanut oil (or sunflower) 1tbsp sesame oil 3tbsp soy sauce juice of 1 organic lime

Thinly slice the onion. Discard the outer layer from the leek, then cut the leek into matchsticks, as thin as possible. Soak in water for 10 minutes to soften the flavour, then drain well. Cut the turnip into very thin half-circles, and the rest of the vegetables into matchsticks.

Mix all the vegetables together in a bowl. Cut the bream into thin slices, about 6mm thick. Arrange the vegetables on a large plate, then the bream. Place the leek in the middle, then scatter over the herbs and peanuts.

Just before serving, make the dressing. Combine the two oils and heat in a small saucepan until they start to lightly smoke.

Pour the hot oil over the salad, along with the soy sauce, lime juice and some black pepper. Toss everything together and serve.

Be careful, the oil gets very hot; it mustn’t ever be left on the heat unattended. Once you can see it smoking, take it off the heat and

Pumpkin doughnuts MAKES ABOUT 20 MINI DOUGHNUTS

375g peeled and chopped pumpkin or 250g ready-made pumpkin purée 150g plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted 2tbsp caster sugar 2tsp baking powder 1 egg, beaten 3tbsp whole milk rice bran or vegetable oil, for frying

To make the pumpkin purée, preheat the oven to 180C/350F/ Gas 4 and put the pumpkin pieces on a baking tray lined with baking paper.

Cook for 40–45 minutes, until soft. Transfer to a bowl, allow to cool, then mash.

In a large bowl, combine the pumpkin purée, flour, sugar, baking powder, egg, milk and a pinch of salt.

Using a deep-fryer or a large deep saucepan, add the rice bran oil and heat to 170C/325F. If you don’t have a thermometer, drop in a cube of bread – the oil is hot enough when the bread turns golden brown in 20 seconds.

Using 2tbsp, shape the mixture into rough balls and drop into the hot oil, a few at a time. Cook for 3–4 minutes, moving them around in the oil.

Drain on paper towel and repeat until all of the batter has been used. Serve immediately.

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RECIPES

Hazelnut dukkah MAKES 520G

270g hazelnuts 1tbsp coriander seeds 1tbsp cumin seeds 155g sesame seeds 2tsp sea salt flakes 2tsp freshly ground black pepper

Dukkah lamb cutlets with mint and pomegranate salad SERVES 4

3tbsp olive oil 6tbsp Hazelnut Dukkah (see right) 8 large lamb cutlets (or lamb chops or noisettes)

For the mint and pomegranate salad

Baked whole snapper with walnuts, chilli and tahini dressing SERVES 4

To work out how long to cook a whole fish in the oven, you can allow three minutes per 100g. So an 800g whole fish will require 24 minutes’ baking time.

700-800g whole snapper, cleaned 6tbsp olive oil 120g walnuts, coarsely chopped 1 long green chilli, coarsely chopped (seeds optional) 1tsp ground coriander 1tsp ground cumin 2 large handfuls flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped 4tbsp tahini dressing (see right)

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/ Gas 4. Score the snapper on the diagonal 2-3 times on each side.

Put on a baking tray lined with baking paper.

Put 4tbsp olive oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat.

Add the walnuts and chilli and cook until lightly toasted. Add 128

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

the coriander and cumin, stir and remove from the heat. Mix through the parsley, remaining olive oil and a pinch of sea salt.

Spread the walnut mixture over the snapper. Cook in the oven for 21-24 minutes, depending on the size of the fish. Serve on a platter with the tahini dressing on the side to spoon over.

Tahini dressing MAKES ABOUT 500ML

2 garlic cloves, peeled 1tbsp sea salt flakes 280g tahini

Put the garlic, salt and 200ml water in a food processor or blender and blend to a paste.

Add the tahini and blend until combined. Transfer to a sterilised jar and store in the fridge for up to a week.

1 handful mint leaves 4tbsp pomegranate seeds 1 preserved lemon, skin only, julienned juice of ½ a lemon 3tbsp olive oil

Put the olive oil and dukkah in a large bowl and mix together. Add the lamb and rub the dukkah mixture into the meat. Cover the bowl and transfer to the fridge to marinate for 30 minutes.

To make the salad, put the mint, pomegranate seeds and preserved lemon in a bowl. Shake together the lemon juice and olive oil in a small jar. Pour over the salad, toss gently and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, taking care not to use too much salt as there is salt in the dukkah on the cutlets.

Heat a chargrill pan over high heat. Cook the lamb cutlets for 2-3 minutes on each side.

Remove the pan from the heat and rest the lamb for 5 minutes before serving with the mint and pomegranate salad.

Preheat the oven to 160C/320F/ Gas 3. Put the hazelnuts on one baking tray, and the coriander and cumin seeds on a separate tray, and bake until toasted, approximately 15 minutes.

After the hazelnuts and seeds have been in the oven for 10 minutes, add the sesame seeds on a separate tray and toast for the remaining 5 minutes, or until lightly coloured. Remove all the trays from the oven and allow the nuts and seeds to cool to room temperature. Put the hazelnuts in a food processor (or mortar and pestle) and pulse to a coarse breadcrumb size. Transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Put the cumin and coriander seeds in the food processor and process until almost a powder.

Add this powder to the bowl along with the toasted sesame seeds, salt and pepper. Mix well using a wooden spoon.

Dukkah can be kept for up to a year if stored in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.

RECIPES

Stuffed spatchcocks with lamb and pine nuts SERVES 8

3tbsp olive oil 2 brown onions, finely diced 3 garlic cloves, crushed ¼tsp ground cinnamon ¼tsp freshly grated nutmeg ¼tsp allspice 500g minced lamb 50g pine nuts, toasted 4 x 500g spatchcocks

For the marinade 125ml olive oil 2tsp allspice 1tbsp pomegranate molasses

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/ Gas 4. Line a baking tray with baking paper.

Heat the olive oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 3-4 minutes. Add the cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice and cook for a further 1-2 minutes. Add the lamb mince and stir occasionally until cooked. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Remove from the heat, add the pine nuts and mix to combine.

Rinse the cavity of each spatchcock with cold water and

pat dry with paper towel. Stuff the cavities with the mince mixture.

You can push a toothpick through the cavity wall to secure it (don’t forget to remove before serving).

To make the marinade, mix the olive oil, allspice and pomegranate molasses together and rub over the spatchcocks.

Put the spatchcocks on the prepared tray and cook for 40-45 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 5-10 minutes.

Serve on a large platter.

Persian pavlova SERVES 8-12

Can be made up to 5 days in advance – just glaze it on the day.

6 egg whites, at room temperature 200g caster sugar 500g plain halva, diced into 1cm cubes 200g dates, chopped 200g dried barberries or cranberries 125g almond meal 50g pistachio nut kernels, coarsely chopped 50g blanched whole almonds, coarsely chopped 120g white chocolate chips 1tsp rosewater shaved halva, pomegranate seeds or rose petals, dusted with sugar, to garnish (optional)

For the white chocolate glaze 75ml single cream 150g white chocolate, coarsely chopped

whisk attachment, whisk the egg whites on high speed until soft peaks form. Gradually add the sugar, whisking until the mixture is firm and glossy as you would with a meringue.

Gently fold in the halva, dates, berries, almond meal, pistachios, almonds, chocolate chips and rosewater. Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin. Bake for 1 hour, or until it is firm to the touch. Set aside to cool completely in the tin on a wire rack.

To make the glaze, put the cream and chocolate in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring until melted. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool, stirring every 2 minutes to prevent lumps forming.

When ready to serve, remove the spring-form ring and spoon the glaze over the pavlova.

Scatter over a Middle Eastern garnish, such as shaved halva, chopped pistachio nut kernels, pomegranate seeds or rose petals dusted with sugar, if desired.

Preheat the oven to 160C/320F/ Gas 3. Grease a 24cm springform cake tin with butter and line the base with baking paper.

Using an electric mixer with the

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AFTER HOURS

Steve Smith

The Midlands chef helms Michelin-starred Bohemia in St Helier, and loves London’s cocktails and Barcelona’s tapas bars. A champion of Jersey produce, he’s inspired by Italy too, says Imogen Lepere

Clockwise from above: Bohemia; Bologna; Nightjar; Michel Roux; roast grouse

by Smith

You got your first Michelin star aged just 24. Was it difficult to stay motivated? All I wanted to do then is what

I still want to do – constantly improve the food I’m serving.

It could go to some people’s heads, but you just can’t allow yourself to be over-awed. I know I can always improve.

What’s your favourite meal of the day? Breakfast. You can go all out with a full English or just have muesli and Jersey yoghurt.

My favourite is lightly toasted sourdough, with scrambled eggs and a couple of rashers of streaky bacon.

What’s the best city in the world for bars? At the moment it’s London. Nightjar in Shoreditch is a favourite because it’s not overly pretentious. Portobello Star is also a great bar and it’s just down the road from The Ledbury, so there’s always an excuse to go for a few drinks after dinner.

We’re buying: what’s your standard order? If I don’t know a place I always order a mojito. It’s a simple cocktail, so if they can’t make that right it’s your cue to go to a different bar.

To book at Steve’s restaurant, Bohemia, visit bohemiajersey.com

Photos by Bohemia; Carl Pendle

Clockwise, from above: Smith’s scallops with smoked eel; the chef; Jersey cow; the coast

Where did you last go on holiday? I did a tour of Italy last summer. Italian cuisine is comforting and constantly surprises you. Just walking down the street in Bologna you’ll see a little shop where people are making pasta by hand; you get a pot of tagliatelle with meat ragù and shaved parmesan for just five euro. We also ate at Osteria Francescana in Modena, which has been on my hit list for a while – the 12-course experimental menu was amazing and technically faultless.

What makes Jersey’s natural larder so special? When the royals are in season, they’re the best in the world. We also have the best milk in the UK. It’s rich and a little fatty, great for ice cream. There’s an abundance of exceptional seafood; when the tide’s really low, if you wade out to thigh level and look down, you’re walking with mackerel and bass.

What’s your favourite ingredient? Salt. It’s the only thing that can make a good dish great. An average soup can become excellent with one sprinkle. I mostly use Maldon.

Where do you take your brigade after service? The Blind Pig in St Helier is a hidden spot where I like to go for cocktails.

Barcelona is a fantastic food city. We stumbled on Tapas 24 because it had a line of locals queuing to get in. It was cheap as chips and everything tasted brilliant. It doesn’t matter where you go as long as you feel you’re getting value for money.

Who are your food heroes? Chefs who have been able to perform at a consistently high level for a long time. If I had to name names, I’d say Phil Howard from The Square and Michel Roux – who has been cooking excellent food for more than 50 years. It’s the same for suppliers. I’ve bought game from Jon at Cartmel Valley for most of my working life.

In the same survey, commissioned by HSBC, Bahrain was named the fourth best place to live in the world.

A surprise only to those who don’t know the Gulf’s sweet centre. Find out more at bahrain.com