Internship at PPJ, Vietnam

Phong Phu International Vietnamese denim manufacturing leader and its design development written by Margareta Sopkova

Work placement report guidance teacher : Trine Vestergaard BA top up international Fashion Design Class: IDde7a814

TEKO VIA Design Hand-in date : 4th of August Company name : Phong Phu International Number of typing units: 50.683

2015, by Margareta Sopkova, Phong Phu International and TEKO VIA Design

ABSTRACT The report has been written on the basis on an internship done at Phong Phu International JSC in Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam which is garment manufacturing company mainly producing denim clothing and a bit of woven and knit fabrics.

Over the period of 2 months, I was employed in the role of a Fashion Designer.

The role had proven to be challenging since it was an introductory role for a fashion designer in the company and was tasked to liaise between the production team and R&D team to develop an innovative and exclusive but high quality sustainable collection for Spring/Summer based on customer requirements and current trends while sticking to a low budget.

The collection is developed using diverse techniques to cater to an international clientele i.e. American and European markets mainly. Focusing on this market means that it is crucial that the collection is produced sustainably with zero to very less ecological impact. The garments are designed through various stages while keeping in mind a broad spectrum of customers. Initially starting off with sketches, they are then converted into technical drawings which are then manufactured as garments. The garments are then put through different washing and treatment methods after discussion with senior executives and displayed as the finished design.

The report enumerates the various factors engulfing the industry by presenting a SWOT analysis. Vietnamese textile and garment industry is an upcoming booming industry because of the low manufacturing costs while adhering to both high quality and ecological standards. However the current Vietnamese market only caters to basic garment designs although it is capable of producing innovative designs. The production team are quite skilled and experienced but the lack of proper communication and language barrier leads to a lot of wastage. Current help from the government and trade agreements between Vietnamese government and other countries have helped in export of garments but the distance from the market hasn’t helped in the shipping times.

Finally, all the issues the designers in this industry face have been elucidated. Since it is set in a very fast paced industry, thinking on the feet is necessary as opposed to developing a masterpiece. The designer has only a limited period to develop the collection while keeping in mind that the final product might not be manufactured to every detail as designed. These samples from the collection have to undergo a corrective finishing method if necessary.

The collection needs to be designed to be extensive and catering to the customers’ needs while sticking to budget costs. It is crucial that the designer bears in mind that the details presented to the production team have to be detailed at the same time simple because of the vernacular. It is important that the designer keeps in mind, the designs and manufacture remains sustainable while including contemporary ideas.

TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Introduction.............................................................................................................1

1.1 Topic............................................................................................................1 1.2 Purpose........................................................................................................1 1.3 Research question ......................................................................................1 1.4 Sub-questions..............................................................................................1

2. Definition of concepts.............................................................................................4 3. Theory and methodology........................................................................................5

3.1. Theory ......................................................................................................5 3.2. Methodology..............................................................................................5 3.3. Empirical methods.....................................................................................5 3.4. Source criticism..........................................................................................5

4. Discussion, analysis and argumentation..................................................................7

4.1. Vietnamese Textile & Garment Industry SWOT......................................7

4.2. About Phong Phu International................................................................9

4.2.1. Design and development at PPJ.................................................10

4.2.2. Laundry capabilities at PPJ........................................................10

4.2.3. Sustainable apparel at PPJ..........................................................11 4.2.4. Compliance.................................................................................11

4.2.5. Capacity : Denim and laundry capacities at PPJ.......................12

4.3. Company requirements for designs..........................................................13

4.4. About denim.............................................................................................14

4.5. Customer research...................................................................................15

4.5.1. Denim design DNA - Europe.....................................................15 4.5.1.1. s.Oliver...........................................................................15 4.5.1.2. Esprit..............................................................................16 4.5.1.3. Tom Tailor.....................................................................17

4.5.2. Denim design DNA - USA............................................................18 4.5.2.1. Chico’s...............................................................................18 4.5.2.2. Express..............................................................................19 4.5.2.3. Rock Revival.....................................................................19

4.5.3. Comparison - Europe vs. USA......................................................20

4.6. Washing / laundry capabilities....................................................................21 4.6.1. Damages.........................................................................................21

4.6.2. Dry processes..................................................................................22

4.6.3 Wet processes - washing & garment dyes........................................23

4.7. Sustainability and Jeanologia .....................................................................24 4.8. Trend forecasting, WGSN...........................................................................25 4.9. Showroom...................................................................................................28

5. Argumentation & reasoning......................................................................................29

5.1. Target group................................................................................................29

5.2. Collection plan............................................................................................29

5.3. Laser experiments...................................................................................... .30

5.4. Collection ...................................................................................................33 5.4.1. Woven.............................................................................................33 5.4.2. Knit................................................................................................43 5.4.3. Denim............................................................................................50 6. Conclusion................................................................................................................61 7. Reflection..................................................................................................................62 8. Bibliography..............................................................................................................63 9. Appendices & list of appendices...............................................................................65 10. Contacts...................................................................................................................66

1.INTRODUCTION Phong Phu International JSC is a garment production company based in Vietnam with its’ headquarter located in Ho Chi Minh City. Main focus of the company is production of denim designs especially bottoms, however it also includes production of woven and knit garments.

is updated with new designs for customers to see new products and innovations that company offers. Current collections at PPJ are created by a production development team without any advisory of a fashion designer. Any aspiring fashion designer should be able to create collections in woven, knit and denim categories, with the main focus to bottoms, for both genders, male and female, as well as kids.

Main customers include world renowned brands like JCPenney, The Limited or Esprit and therefore company’s production is dedicated to both, American and European market.

1.3. RESEARCH QUESTION Main question Concerning price, customer, trends, and sustainability, how will the designs of a new internal collection A/W 2016 of Phong Phu International JSC look like?

1.1. TOPIC This report discusses issues accompanying development of new internal Spring Summer collection of Phong Phu International JSC (further PPJ). This report showcases what possibilities a designer have and what have to be implemented while working at PPJ in order to create diversified designs. Collection should not necessarily be coherent, but rather present all the possibilities, catering to the customer’s varied needs and requirements. As well as meeting the budget, design, quality and sustainability, the collection should also follow the latest trends and customer’s requirements.

Greater part of this report focuses on development of an internal collection. Report showcases designs of each category and their individual development, from sketch to techpack made, to communicating the design with the production development team, choosing fabrics, then right washing methods and finally trims.

1.4. SUB-QUESTIONS What are the current trends in denim industry?

Prior to developing the collection, research in denim industry is conducted. Using wgsn.com reports, methods and different kinds of fits are chosen and used as inspiration. In PPJ, techniques and ways of innovations are selected, considering current

1.2. PURPOSE/PROBLEM SCENARIO Biannually, the internal collection at PPJ

1

collection and customers’ needs.

As the first designer working at PPJ, issues that a potential designer could face in the future will be discussed and ways of improvement will be presented. Furthermore, methods and techniques to make teams within product development work together in a more efficient and effective way was discussed and implemented.

What are washing possibilities and how could they be obtained within the collection in various ways in order to attract customer?

When creating the collection, diversity is considered over coherency. Various techniques should be used (embroidery, printing, different types of damages, PP spray, coating, etc.) filling the gaps in the collection currently presented in the showroom.

In order to find the best way of developing and communicating designs, each sub-category of the collection is created using different methods of sketches.

Are there any ways the collection could be more sustainable?

The greatest concern within denim industry is sustainability. Collections should be based not only on economic constraints but also ecological aspects. What methods PPJ uses to be more eco-friendly, and are there any other that should be taken into consideration? PPJ should consider what methods they use selecting more eco-friendly processes and divulging in methods and research to make it more sustainable.

Which aspects should be taken into consideration by a potential future fashion designer working at PPJ? As PPJ is a constantly developing company, employing a fashion designer is one of the prospects the company has to increase interest in its internal designer collection and to attract new customers.

2

3

2. DEFINITION OF CONCEPTS

1. PPJ – Phong Phu International, Vietnam based manufacturing company focused on denim 2. European and American customers – brands having garments produced by PPJ 3. WGSN – Worth Global Style Network, leading trend forecasting portal for fashion designers and retailers 4. R&D - Research and development department. The department can work with individual ga4. rments to test and create garments alike to customers’ samples. Brushing, damages, PP or washing can be done separately on each garment (smaller scale than the actual production) 5. LOT – Minimum order that factory can produce of one product. Smaller factories can produce one hundred garments to higher, however larger manufacturing companies would refuse orders lower than a thousand.

6. TPP – Trans Pacific Partnership, an agreement concerning lower trade barriers, tariffs and labour. Contract between Brunei, Chile, Singapore and New Zealand in 2006 was made to enhance trade, investment and innovation among these countries. Later on Australia, Canada, Japan, Malaysia, Peru, Mexico and Vietnam jouned the agreement.

7. FTA – Free Trade Agreement, is cooperation in between at least two countries that agree upon free trading. These countries do not need to have a common external tariff.

8. ASEAN – Association of South East Asian Nations 9. Techpack – a file with spec drawing and all the necessary information about fabric, threads, colours and trims used for making a garment. Techpack also includes measurements of the details essential for making the pattern.

10. Gerber & Lectra – Softwares used by pattern designers to create digital patterns.

11. BSCI – Business Social Compliance

4

3. THEORY AND METHODOLOGY 3.1. THEORY

3.3. EMPIRICAL METHODS

This report is based on personal studies of Vietnamese textile & garment industry and research of Phong Phu International’s European and American customers. Further on, a research on laundry possibilities is conducted in order to better understand all the techniques and effects that are available in the laundry department.

Analysis of current denim trends shows course of denim market by using the main trend forecasting portals like WGSN, Style, Trendstop or the brands themselves.

Majority of this report is based upon personal interviews with staff working at PPJ. Close interaction with workers and other staff provides the most appropriate insights as well as observations used to analyse and conduct designing process.

Trend analysis is based directly on research on PPJ’s customers’ apparel. This research is made online, either brands’ websites, or by attending the meetings with them.

3.2 METHODOLOGY

All sources in this report are primarily based on personal experience. Unclear information is backed up by PPJ’s employees, (managers, graphic designers, technicians, etc), and online sources. Employees at PPJ are trained to do the job they are assigned to. This combination of their skill with their experience makes them the most reliable source available.

3.4. SOURCE CRITICISM

Based upon market research and denim treatments options, the design process is initiated by sketching process. Forecasted trends are captured in rough drawings without inspiration boards being developed. Chosen designs should obtain a variety of wet and dry processes and incorporate the most extensive audience possible. These designs are transformed into technical Customer websites are used directly to find out missing gaps and are therefore a relevant source drawings with all the necessary measurements.

They are then sent to product development team used to create a collection plan. at Phong Phu International (further PPJ). This report does not include pattern developments and fittings. After the garment is made, appropriate washing methods and other treatments is discussed with managing director at PPJ, Jerome Lalouette, and manager of R&D department at PPJ, Thiru Moorthi. After leg panel sampling, the final design is made to be showcased in company’s showroom.

Not all garments represented in this report are finalised and therefore it is not possible to illustrate the final look. If the garments are finished until the presentation, it is possible that the changes, washing and finishes might be explained there, instead of this report.

5

6

4. DISCUSSION, ANALYSIS AND ARGUMENTATION Vietnam is one of the leading countries in manufacturing garments for casual styles and denim. Is it possible for Vietnamese economics and manufacturing industry to maintain its pace and keep up with European and American manufacturing demands?

SWOT analysis helps examine current state of Vietnamese Textile and Garment Industry which is necessary for a designer to understand all the available possibilities to use in future and also potential threats to avoid. er nations. Another factor which promotes the industry in Vietnam is the fact that the import duty to Europe lies only in between 9.6% to 12% now. It is expected to be reduced down to 0% with a new agreement.

4.1 Vietnamese Textile & Garment Industry SWOT Strengths : In Vietnam, Textiles & garment industry has become the main source of export revenue in the past few years as production has moved from Europe entirely to Asian countries.

Health issues related to chemicals found in products manufactured in China and lack of manufacturing sustainability requirements concerning workers in countries like Bangladesh make Vietnam one of the most suitable countries for the manufacturing of garments.

Vietnam offers low budget manufacturing costs whilst not cutting any corners on quality of the garments produced. This is due to the fact that the minimum wage is only approximately USD 180 – 250 per month.

Weaknesses: A shortage of quality fabrics or diverse accessories might be considered as a disadvantage of Vietnam. Many accessories in Vietnam which are labelled as branded (with brand logos on) are in fact produced as a replicas.

However, the main concern for customers outside Vietnam is the communication with Vietnamese staff who are not literate enough to understand and reply to English written orders.

The language itself may cause misunderstandings and confusions in the whole order, which could cause an error or defect to the garment manufacture means several thousands of garments going to waste. The language barrier could also influence speed of response between production and design team which could be crucial in urgent situations.

Compared to other production countries like Pakistan, Afghanistan, Bangladesh and Thailand; Vietnam has a relatively stable economy, government and influx of financial support.

Even though Vietnam leads in production of basic casual looking garments, it is still lacking in making innovative designs and ideas itself.

Another factor to be considered is the distance from Europe which can cause the shipping duration to be from 90 to 100 days.

Vietnam is leading for its workmanship and fashion level for ready-to-wear garments because of the efficient staff training and skills obtained through years of cooperation with European and American customers.

Opportunities :

Vietnamese textile and garment industry is also flexible when it comes to producing a relatively small LOT order compared to oth-

The Trans Pacific Agreement (TPP) will make it easier for Vietnam to collaborate with 12 other

7

countries in terms of lower Free Trade Agreement (FTA) between Vietnam and Europe has eased up negotiations for Vietnam with European countries. The FTA is also valid with Japanese market since 2009 and Korean market since 2010.

Vietnam is a part of free trade between ASEAN countries and also between another six countries.

The reduction in production in Eastern Europe promises Vietnam expansion in the future. Not only Europe but even China is reducing the textile and garment industries which makes it the most appropriate time for Vietnam to invest and develop in this field.

Threats: One of the biggest threats scourging Vietnam is the increase in pollution linked to produc-

tion especially dyeing and great denim production.

The production of fake garments are discouraging to foreign customers. The rapid increase in labor wages are starting to be a cause of concern as well. Even though Vietnam has a huge potential to become the leader in textile and garment industry, there is still ample competition with countries like Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar.

Level of Fashion Garment of Vietnam manufacture Vietnam is proficient in producing formal, casual and leisure items. While it isn’t easy to produce profile items in Vietnam, it is easier to produce the core and basic items in Vietnam.

Very basic item such as a simple tank top is not a product category that Vietnamese factories are eager to produce.

8

4.2. ABOUT PHONG PHU INTERNATIONAL PPJ’s production is mainly focused on denim production and manufacturing denim garments which comprises over 50% of the whole production. Knit and woven garments are spread equally at 25% of the whole production. Company is working on various processes including Cotton Procurement, Spinning, Dyeing, Weaving, Finishing, Cutting, Embroidery & Printing, Sewing Line, Dry & Wet Process, WF Process, Finishing & Packing and Delivery.

Phong Phu International is one of the leading textile producers and garment manufacturers in Vietnam. Production is aimed on denim bottoms and tops, woven bottoms and knit items. These high quality apparels are then distributed internationally mainly to European countries and the United States.

PPJ was launched in 2007 as a part of Phong Phu group. PPJ with its headquarter in Ho Chi Minh City has 7 other factories in the South & Middle of Vietnam (Long An, Nha Trang, Phu Yen, Binh Dinh, Da Nang, Quang Tri and Hanoi). Phong Phu International (further PPJ) also collaborates with other factories in order to source fabrics that PPJ is unable to produce itself due to its factories’s limited capacity. These sourcing offices are mainly in Hong Kong, Shanghai or Vietnam itself (i.e. Kurabo or Marubeni).

PPJ produces garments for European (Esprit, s.Oliver, Tom Tailor, Replay, Quicksilver, Mango) , American (JcPenney, Pacsun, PINK, Express, Torrid, Miss Me, Target, Chico’s, Abercrombie & Fitch, Hot Topic, Rock Revival) and a few Asian customers (Toms, Lee, Kurabo, Itochu, Marubeni ).

Mission statement : “The goal of PPJ is to maximize our customer’s satisfaction by delivering innovative vertical textile solutions, seamlessly integrated business processes with an entrepreneurial spirit.1 “

9

4.2.1. DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT AT PPJ The Design team works mostly on replicating samples sent by the customers. All the specifications are sent to the product development team which communicates the requirements to the pattern development team, sewing lab and embroidery. Pattern designers use Gerber or Lectra to produce the best fit digital patterns. Once the garment is made, it is sent either to R & D or to the graphic designers. Graphic designers can replicate whiskers, worn effects, damages or even create patterns. In R & D, the team

can work on whiskers, damages, and worn out effects as well, although this is a less sustainable way. Garments can be enhanced with 3D effects or prints and finished by various dyes or and final washes. Currently, there is no fashion designer working at PPJ. Technical & Fit team works with Gerber and Lectra software to create digital pattern design, marking and grading as well as the required fitting.

At PPJ, 3% of required garments is manufactured for the samples and in case of a mistake during production.

4.2.2. LAUNDRY CAPABILITIES AT PPJ Laundry possibilities include whiskers, grinding, tacking, PP spray, pigment and chemical spray, 3D effect, garment coating, various washes, garment dying, drying, laser, ozone and wrinkle free.

PPJ is always looking to include new innovative techniques and machinery to its capabilities, based on current trends and customer requirements.

10

4.2.3. SUSTAINABLE APPAREL AT PPJ 4.2.4. Compliance

In the dynamically developing textile market, it is important to keep up with customers’ needs and implementing the latest available innovations. In the earlier years, these were focused on sustainability and so PPJ invested in laser machine, ozone and chemical technology. This was done in order to minimize energy and water usage throughout the manufacturing of each garment. Laser and ozone machines are from Jeanologia, which also offers EIM (Environmental Impact Measuring) software, to calculate the impact of each garment on the environment and choose the least harmful manufacturing methods.

PPJ conforms to the SOCIAL ACCOUNTABILITY SA 8000: 2001 Production at PPJ conforms to : - BSCI - WRAP - Better Work Factory PPJ fulfils the requirements of minimum wage in Vietnam and provides bonuses approved by the government as well as provides social and health insurance. There are three canteens at the Ho Chi Minh factory as well as a health care clinic for the staff.

11

4.2.5. CAPACITY : DENIM AND LAUNDRY CAPACITIES AT PPJ Denim capacities by factory: -Danang Ex Gmt Fty 6 (14 lines – 180.000 pcs/month) -Phuyen Ex Gmt Fty 5 (12 lines – 160.000 pcs/month) -Nha Trang Ex Gmt Fty 4 (13 lines -170.000pcs/month) -Long An Ex Gmt Fty 3 (18 lines – 240.000pcs/month) -Thu Duc Ex Gmt Fty 2 (5 lines -70.000pcs/month) -HCMC Ex Gmt Fty 1 (20 lines – 260.000pcs/month) Laundry capacity by factory: -Danang Laundry 6 (capacity 500.000 pcs/month) -Danang Laundry 5 (capacity 200.000 – 300.000pcs/month) -HNC Binh Dinh Laundry 4 (capacity 200.000 – 300.000 pcs/month) -Thanh Chau Long An Laundry 3 (capacity 200.000 – 300.000 pcs/month) -LTW HCMC Laundry 2 (capacity 300.000 - 500.000 pcs/month) -R&D HCMC Laundry 1 (capacity 200.000 – 300.000 pcs/month) Capacity : Woven Bottoms Facilities - Danang Wrinkle Free (capacity : 500.000 units/month) - Emtexco Ex Gmt Fty 5 (8 lines – 100.000 pcs/month) - Quang Tri Ex Gmt Fty 4 (15 lines – 180.000 pcs/month) - VID Ex Gmt Fty 3 (20 lines -250.000 pcs/month) - Danang Ex Gmt Fty 2 (16 lines – 200.000 pcs/month) - HCMC Ex Gmt Fty 1 (12 lines – 160.000 pcs/month) Capacity : Knit Tops and Bottom Facilities - VTJ Knit Fty ( 10 lines – 200.000 pcs/month) - Saigon Knit Fty ( 16 lines – 300.000 pcs/month) - Long An Knit Fty ( 6 lines – 120.000 pcs/month) Capacity : fabric facilities Denim: Phong Phu Denim : capacity 2 million meter/month TCE Denim L PPj Supply Chain – capacity : 1.5 million meter/month TL Denim : PPJ Supply Chain – Capacity : 1.5 million meter / month Twill fabric: VID Woven : PPJ Internal Supply Chain – capacity 2/5 million meter /month EMTEXCO Woven: PPJ internal Supply Chain – Capacity : 600 tons/month Knit fabric: Vinaknit Knit: PPJ internal Supply Chain – capacity : 600 tons/month

12

4.3. COMPANY REQUIREMENTS FOR DESIGNS PPJ’s showroom is currently showcasing garments that are replicated from WGSN trend forecasting reports or other designs that are currently in trend. Fashion designer working on a new Spring/Summer 2016 collection should not be focused on development of new idea or inspiration and a single trend-focused garments but rather work on garments displaying a plethora of techniques that PPJ offers.

The collection is based upon an analysis of European and American customers. These designed garments should serve them as an inspiration as well as manufacture-ready designs. out of pure denim, denim blends and even selvedge denim. No raw denim is produced at PPJ.

The collection is required to begin with woven bottoms, followed by knit bottoms and tops and then finally denim bottoms and tops.

Main focus is on trousers, these should be casual with small detail changes. Denim trousers are required to be more innovative than the “5 pockets� and can be made

After designing, Jerome Lalouette, the managing director of the company decides on final designs to be developed and produced.

For the chosen designs, the fabric, thread and types of washes are chosen by the fashion designer. Further a techpack is prepared which includes crucial measures and information about the zippers and other trims.

This will be sent to the product development team and pattern design team.

It is important that all designs balance designing elements in the right way in order to match the prices customers are looking for. If construction of the garment is complicated, wet and dry processes should be minimal. If a garment is simple in its construction, additional manipulations like laser pattern, damages or more advanced washings can be added.

13

4.4. ABOUT DENIM Denim is a twill-weave woven and cotton fabric that uses different colours for the warp and weft. It is a strong yarn dyed fabric, where indigo colour dominates on the fabric surface.

Denim wears well and resists tears and snags, and is therefore suitable for daily wear and work wear.

wrinkles, grinding & destroy, broken and tagging, PP spray and PP sponging, laser…) and washes, or wet processes (rinse, pigment wash, caustic wash, silicon wash, stone wash, enzyme wash, stone enzyme wash, acid wash, bleach wash, tinting wash…).

Denim is available in various weights and blends, although it is mostly made out of cotton. (Nowadays it is possible to find also hemp denim, however this is not produced at PPJ). Denim is very strong and durable and has endless options for designers. Effects can be reached through dry processes (sand blasting, hand scraping, permanent wrinkle, over all

Denim dyes and other finished require a lot of energy and water use and can seriously influence workers’s health. Those are the reasons that denim industry is in one of the main targets for sustainability enthusiasts as well as the inventors of textile technologies.

14

4.5. CUSTOMER RESEARCH Customer research is based upon 3 customers from European as well as from American market.

4.5.1. DENIM DESIGN DNA EUROPE European brands PPJ produces apparel for: Esprit, s.Oliver, Tom Tailor, Replay, Quicksilver, Mango 4.5.1.1. s. Oliver A German fashion brand selling apparel as well as other accessories is nowadays one of the Europe’s 20 largest fashion companies.

S. Oliver is targeting different buyer types, from casual- ladies and gents leisure fashion to more trend oriented teenagers as well as sophisticated adults. Overall, s.Oliver offers monochrome summer looks, elegant lightweight styles enhanced with few patterns.

No matter age, this apparel is made for an urban individual enjoying everyday casuals and authentic looks.

Women’s and men’s trousers start at a price of 29.99 euros and so do the shirts and t-shirts. Prices usually do not exceed 100 euros.

15

4.5.1.2. Esprit Womenswear Casual fashion brand, effortless, relaxed and comfortable Esprit style.

Esprit jeans cover most categories of denim design. You can find every fit skinny, straight, boyfriend, bootcut and flared, all these from high to low rise. To create unique, yet still casual look, Esprit design team adds details like zippers, creases, turn ups or drawstrings. Vintage look, cool distressing and bleaches adds garments cool up-to-date finish. Prices for denim trousers range from 39.99 to 69.99 Euros.

Chinos, boyfriend fit trousers, cargos, biker trousers and tracksuits range from 39.99 to 89.99 Euros.

In category of knitwear Esprit presents plain flowing one coloured t-shirts ocassionally decorated with simple prints. Here the prices start at as low as 9.99 Euros and goes up to 49.99.

but rough.

Another trend to choose might be “the L.A. factor” i.e. casual, sporty styles with trendy appeal.

Indigo-dyed materials are, as in womenswear, the “must have” of the next season in Esprit. Inspiration comes from work wear, casuals or pure denims.

Menswear Esprit mens bottoms are mainly composed of clean-style jeans, trousers, bermudas and chinos. Knitted items are also very minimalistic, but include more prints (eg. Esprit logo), stripes, burn-outs and marled effects. Prices for trousers range from 39.99 to 89.99 Euros. Jeans go as high as 89.99 as well and T-shirts start as low as 9.99.

Esprit website also suggests new trends that European men and women should focus on.

Next season patterns are florals and checks, boho style and colours of indigo blue, midnight green or autumn red, the perfect colour for now and later.

Esprit forecasts more timeless clothing that you can wear at any point.

Mottled effect should be in for the men, giving basics a characteristic eye-catching effect.

Classics like black and white are still having their place in men’s closet but can border with more urban rock star attitude, easy going, cool

16

Recycled Hong Kong collection in 2012, proves that Esprit is not only looking to sell but also cares about their customer’s opinion and tries to be as sustainable as possible.

Esprit is made to last from natural materials and with quality, responsible production.

4.5.1.3 Tom Tailor Aimed on 25 to 40 years old, Tom Tailor offers sporty elegant and unique looks.

Blend of sporty designs and playful details reflected in fashionable, cleaner looks is a perfect fit for European customer. Tom Tailor is elegant, meticulous, authentic and individual. Designs are focused on perfect fit and the latest in trend colours.

Prices of womenswear start at about 39 Euros and can climb up to 99 for each fit of trousers and jeans. On sale the prices of these can, however, fall down to less than 12 euros. T-shirts on sale cost about 6 euros, but their normal price is about 45.99.

In menswear prices don’t differ much. Denim and trousers up to 89.99, tees 59.99. On sale prices start at 5.99 per t-shirt and 9.99 per trousers or jeans.

17

4.5.2. DENIM DESIGN DNA USA

American brands PPJ produces apparel for: JcPenney, Pacsun, PINK, Express, Torrid, Miss Me, Target, Chico’s, Abercrombie & Fitch, Hot Topic, Rock Revival 4.5.2.1. Chico’s Chico’s is a brand made purely for women’s needs. Label represents a combination of a great style, casual as well as dressy clothing and accessories. These are split into 6 collections: So slimming, Black label (luxury sub brand), Travellers (wrinkle-resistant and easy packing0, Zenergy (active wear) and Zenergy Golf (focused on golf). In general, brand produces garments with chic prints, artisan looks, and relaxed fit. Trousers go for 19.25 all the way up to 97.90, while tops can go even for 120 dollars.

18

4.5.2.2. Express Express is a brand for innovators, fashion forward men and women and everyone else with a unique style. Express covers jeans for every occasion, whether it is work, weekend or just going out. Designs are sophisticated, modern and up to date with the latest trends. Express apparel is creative with fringes, straps, rhinestones, laces and other little details. This casual wear is meant for men and women from 23 to 40 years. Each of them will be able to find the right fit or preferable washes, from lightest to darkest.

Price for womenswear range from 59.99 $ for jeans and trousers and goes up to about 90.00 $. Men’s trousers can get as high as 110.00 $. T-Shirts that include a lot of prints start at 14.99 and finish just above 50 $.

4.5.2.3. Rock Revival Rock revival is well known for its signature heavy embroidered back pockets that borders with overloading. Even though this embroidering takes a lot of time and is also reflected on price, American customers seem to stay faithful to this brand. As the company name states, Rock Revival is meant for rebellious rock music enthusiasts. The brand represents freedom of expression, liberation and individuality. The customers follow the same. Rock revival presents quality denim, flowing stitch lines and various washing treatments.

Women’s jeans range from about 128 $ up to 189.00.

Men’s wear jeans can go as high as 200 $. Tees and other knitted products start at 38 $.

19

4.5.3. COMPARISON - EUROPE vs. USA When looking at European and American market, there is a noticeable difference in brand (and brands’ customers) requirements in styling of garments. While European customers are looking for more subtle and minimalistic designs with sophisticated details, American market is able to handle more exaggerated styling like heavy embroidery (Rock Revival) or loads damages (Express).

Considering orders, European brand are usually looking for lower minimum order, but invest in higher quality fabrics that also reflects in higher quality apparel. American brands usually order higher amount of the same garment and look for cheaper fabrics and garments.

20

4.6. WASHING / LAUNDRY CAPABILITIES 4.6.1. Damages / pre-distressed denim : Damages are made to achieve more worn-out effects on jeans before actually wearing them. Damages should imitate the shape and direction of a real damage after wearing the damaged garment.

4.6.2. Dry processes: Whiskers – a denim jeans finish that looks like white lines or “whiskers”, that look like worn out wrinkles on the thighs near crotch and also behind the knees. This effect can be used on denim, woven as well as knit trousers.

Grinding – grinding is done against abrasion surface machine. Grinding is usually placed on the edges. Typically it is opening hem of front pockets, back pockets and bottom leg hemline.

Tacking / 3D effect– trousers are folded three to five times and tacked or locked through folds by swift tag machine. After washing and drying, permanent 3D fold is created. These fold usually appear around front pockets, waistband or hemline. Inner fold is darker while outside fold is more damaged and therefore has a lighter shade.

Abrasion – abrasion is done by stone tools on desired areas of trousers. Stone tools are driven in one direction until the yarns of other direction are visible. Warp and weft colour usually differ, but sometimes can be the same. This effect can be enhanced by patching. Simply applying glue on another piece of fabric and backing up the hanging threads from inside of trousers.

Frayed – lately very popular finish. Fabric edges are left raw and can be additionally stitched for the fraying to stop.

21

Laser – laser is a sustainable alternative to hand made whiskers, brushed fading, or PP spray. Intensity can be adjusted in photoshop, starting from 50 higher. After burning out a shape on weft yarns, applied area needs to be torn apart by hand, the rest is done during washing.

At PPJ, usually 1 or 2 workers operate 1 laser machine.

Every design is first tested as a sample, where time is measured. To sustain an effective production, laser patterns shouldn’t take more than 2 minutes to be made.

Minimum 30 garments should be produced in an hour.

Sandblasting – process of shooting sand on jeans to create a worn out effect. Not possible to do at PPJ, as this process is forbidden due to its dangerous effects.

4.6.3. Wet processes: washing & garment dying Tinted – this is a process of dying denim for the second time with a yellow khaki blue. This creates desired vintage denim look.

Enzyme wash – effect is the same as stone washing, however using enzymes reflects on stronger fabric rather than broken down as it is during stone washing. Similarly to pumice stones this finish uses organic enzymes (or proteins) to eat away indigo dye.

Acid wash – acid washed jeans have a deep contrast in coloring creating unique patterns . To reach this stained contrasting effect factories use pumice stones soaked in bleach (chlorine).

Bleached – Bleach is used to make denim fade on applied areas. This chemical can be used in liquid or powdered version.

Dirty washing – stained looking jeans finish Sand wash – pumice stones, enzymes and sand are used to imitate the effect of aged denim jeans and tops.

22

Stone wash – pumice stones are added to the washing machine. These removes colour, adding contracting stains at the garment.

PP spray – H3PO4 or PP spray, is a spray (or foam) with pink appearance that is used to give whiter worn out effect on thighs and upper thighs at the back of a trousers. This can be done separately, or just to enhance laser made fading.

Garment coating – garment is coated with a layer of colouring paste, or dipped into a wax-like liquid to give it leathery smooth texture. Coating is available in various colours and gives garments a protective breathable layer that resists stains.

Overdyed – after denim trousers have been sewn, this is an option to make the thread colour the same as the jeans.

Ozone – ozone machine uses oxygen from the air to transform it into ozone and create the same effect as bleaching.

Wrinkle free – durable press finish that uses shape-retention resin finish.

Samples at PPJ are usually made in four washes: rinse, dark wash, medium wash and light wash. Minimally rinse wash has to be done with every garment in order to avoid shrinkage.

Decorative finishes Embroidered – embroidery is most commonly used on back pockets or to display a brand’s name. Embroidery can be made in every colour possible. For rebellious Rock Revival heavy embroidery on back pockets became a signature.

Screen printing – any pattern /picture can be screen printed on finished garment

23

4.7. SUSTAINABILITY AND JEANOLOGIA PPJ tries to implement as many sustainable machines as possible. So far, these are mainly laser and ozone machine from Jeanologia.

Jeanologia is a Spanish company, focusing on development of sustainable and efficient finishing technologies. These are made to reduce water consumption, eliminate damaging emissions and waste, enhance productivity at manufacturing companies and cut back on energy consumption.

Jeanologia offers a selection of lasers for different use like garment finishing, leather/ footwear, retail od software e-mark. PPJ uses Flexi HS 3D laser that is designed for higher productivity and versatility in one. Flexi HS 3D is very precise and can work with the most delicate artworks.

Ozone machine, model G2, is designed to eliminate toxic chemicals usage, like bleaching and permanganate, while also reducing water and energy used during the finishing processes.

Ozone machine works by using the air from the atmosphere. Outdoor usage finish is achieved by producing ozone gas from the oxygen in the air. Ozone reacts with the indigo dye and changes the colour create bleached effect without bleaching. This process is a substitute for Stone wash or Bleach chlorine use.

To complement these innovative and more eco-friendly machines, Jeanologia came up with an EIM system. EIM is an Environmental Impact Measuring tool meant to be used by manufacturers, laundries, retailers and brands. With EIM, each company looking for sustainable apparel can measure chemical consumption, water and energy use as well as brand ecological footprint.

By use of EIM, PPJ can combine different techniques and compare them to select the most effective processes.

24

4.8. TREND FORECASTING, WGSN Surface of denim trousers and tops seems to be divided into panels, however this is only an effect created by laser or PP spray in combination with chemicals that resist PP spray.

Again, this might be combined with completely plain look or an effect that resembles denim dug up from under the ground.

Hobo styling can be added to create an eclectic impression.

For the next season, no matter whether its spring, summer, autumn or winter, the biggest hits are shredded or, in contrary, super clean jeans. Low slung boyfriend jeans with distressed, worn-and-torn damages and patches are still a desirable piece.

Fighting over popularity, there are jeans with no fading, no whiskers, no advanced washing methods.

Especially for American market it might be suitable to follow a trend of overloaded textures. Heavy embroidery, textured surfaces, pocket stuffed on top of each other are the way to go.

High waisted jeans, shorter hems and wide-leg still found the way into the shops this year.

25

Simple styling, but contrasting pockets, waistbands or cuffs might be on the other hand popular Europe.

shades of raw denim as well as pastel powder blue, or combine both of these with a stripy pattern.

In shorts the dolphin hem is still popular.

In combination with high rise, this is the perfect 70s summer look.

Whether it is an overall, boyfriend jeans, extra slim or flared fit trousers, they all should reinvent an old classics in a fresh ways.

And lets not forget about the boyfriend jeans that are a must-have! Simple pockets, rough-cut edges, exaggerated boyfriend fit or patched damages, boyfriend jeans can handle it all!

For men, comfortable joggers create casual but modern look. These are creative in variety of different hems, drawstrings, waistbands and zippers. Hooded sweatshirts, polo shirts and loose tees are accompanying the “toocool-to-care� look.

Colours meet in clean indigo blue, with

26

27

4.9. SHOWROOM PPJ’s showroom is divided into womenswear, menswear and knit sections. Most of the garments are denim and woven trousers. Detailed analysis of each garment shows great focus on 5 pockets jeans, showcasing mostly different washes or damages that the company is able to create. Very few denim tops are showcased. Showroom could be updated with trousers with innovative cutlines, newest dyeing techniques or inventive and more advanced pockets solutions. Showroom can be updated with several pieces of dresses, jackets, overalls, sweatshirts or shorts.

28

5. ARGUMENTATION & REASONING 5.1. TARGET GROUP Target group in focus of the collection is mainly European and American customers, including all major brands PPJ produces garments for. As the main inspiration for the collection the biggest customers as Esprit, Express, s. Oliver were analysed.

Even though American market diametrically differentiates from European, the garments should include, more minimalistic clean designs as well as exaggerated embroideries and massive patches and extreme cutlines.

Age of the buyers is assumed to range from 25 to 40 years.

5.2. COLLECTION PLAN Woven - 11 pieces ( menswear - , womenswear - , ) Knit – 11 pieces (menswear - , womenswear - , ) Denim – 30 pieces (menswear - , womenswear - , ) all garments together- 52 Collection is based upon the trend research and focuses on panelling, boyfriend jeans, colour combinations and combinations of wet and dry processes.

From chosen 52 designs, 45 were sent to production, excluding men tops.

29

30

5.3. LASER EXPERIMENTS To better understand all the effect that are possible to be made by laser, I made a few experiments myself: Illustrator: Vector designs make laser follow the lines strictly till its cut through.

Photoshop: Artwork made in Photoshop can be used for fading effects. Fading is only visible from intensity of 50 and higher. Therefore provided leg panels are only tested for intensity of 50, 60, 70, 80 and 90.

On the right side you can see an illustration of two patterns, barocco and houndstooth. Samples are included in the sample book under “ laser experiments�.

31

32

5.4.1. WOVEN Starting off with an idea for creating woven bottoms as well as the tops, it all changed when I reviewed all the available fabrics. As these are mainly cotton and quite heavyweight, it was difficult to imagine these being on a tops. The designs I have created were mostly based on wgsn forecast.

Below you can see the designs picked by Jerome Lalouette, managing director at PPJ. All of the garments were manufactured only once. Therefore errors made were not possible to be corrected. Each of the samples bellow describes corrections that could be made in case of producing several prototypes.

Final trims were selected upon Ben Thanh market visit. A lot of the trims here are fake duplicates of brand names, making it difficult to select a quality made, non-branded button or zipper.

5.4.2. KNIT Knit collection was first created in illustrator (compared to woven that was sketched first), making working sketches directly. Chosen were 11 designs that were manufactured.

5.4.3. DENIM Denim was, as woven collection, made in sketches first, as this was a better option to show different washes and desired damages. Chosen were 31 designs out of which 25 were transformed into techpacks and are currently being manufactured.

33

5.4.1. SAMPLE OF WOVEN no.1 MOTO skinny

Woman’s skinny fit moto trousers

34

MOTO skinny

Woman’s skinny fit moto trousers

Specifications: Inseam: 31 Knee position from crotch 13 Knee: 13 1/2 Leg opening 11 1/2 Fly stitch length from seam: 4 1/2 Front pockets: Pocket opening ate side seam: 3 Pocket opening from side seam at waist: 4 1/2

Back pockets: Pocket opening: 5 1/4 Pocket width 1 Pocket position from side seam: 2 1/2 Waistband: Waistband width: 1 1/2 belt loop length: 2 belt loop width: 1/2 belt loop at CB width 1 1/4 belt loop at CB length 2 Yoke: Upper yoke width at CB: Upper yoke width at side seam: Lower yoke width at CB:

35

3/4 2 3

MOTO skinny

Woman’s skinny fit moto trousers

4 1/4

4 1/4

1 1/2

knee position

14 1/2

3 1/2 3 1/4

2 3/4

3/4

2

15 1/4 3

13 1/2

2 1/2

2 1/2

3/4 (1) 1

2 1/2

13 1/2 2

36

MOTO skinny

Woman’s skinny fit moto trousers Side view

Inside leg

1 3/4

8 1/4

37

SAMPLE OF WOVEN no.2

38

39

40

SAMPLE OF WOVEN no.3

41

42

MANUFACTURED WOVEN GARMENTS

Sample no.1 After production trousers required change of pockets to bigger. Trousers were produced in not tone in tone colours and therefore not satisfactory look required overdye in green. If another sample was made, trousers could have been done in one colour, stitching could be moved higher and adjusted.

Stitching thread needed to be changed for softer and matching the material.

Sample no. 2 Womens overall needed zipper to be changed into a matching colour as well as stitching, which was sewn across the pocket and therefore pocket wasnt funtional. Vintage look wash was added and enhanced by PP spray at the thighs. After market visit, no suitable buckle was found and therefore was used the best oprion possible - silver buckle. Pleat on the front needed to be more narrow.

43

Sample no.3.

These men’s shorts used assymmetric closure which turned out looking very well, however could be made a bit more narrower in case of making more prototypes. 3D effect was added as well as PP spray. Stritching on the thighs needs to be changed to softer or it needs to be lined with another fabric. Colour of stitching thread is not the same as the colour of sewing thread.

44

5.4.2. SAMPLE OF KNIT no.1 Women’s knit trousers, boyfriend fit.

Fabric : VK88-28TCZ

Fabric : TL83681

45

Specifications: inseam : 27 Leg opening : 9 Fly stitch length from seam 4 1/2 Front pockets : Pocket opening 5 1/2 Pocket width 1 Position from waistband 1 1/4 Position from side seam on top 2 Position from side seam at bottom 1 Back pockets : Pocket opening 5 Waistband : waistband width

3 1/4

string opening position from CF 2 cuff height 3 Thread colour : matching main material

TRousers before and after wash and finishing. On these trousers only rinse wash was made. After washing buttons and drawstring were added.

46

SAMPLE OF KNIT no.2

47

48

SAMPLE OF KNIT no.3

49

50

51

5.4.3. SAMPLE OF DENIM no.1 Mens straight denim trousers

Double front pockets with zipper and leather corners at the back pockets

52

Mens straight denim trousers

Double front pockets with zipper and leather corners at the back pockets

Fabric: Thread color:

DC shoes black coated fabric C9760

Specifications: Inseam: 32 Leg opening 14 1/2 Fly stitch length from seam: 5 1/2 Front pockets: Smaller pocket Pocket opening at side seam: 4 Pocket opening from side seam at waist: 4 1/2 Coin pocket height 3 1/2 Coin pocket width 3 1/2 Larger pocket Pocket opening at side seam: Pocket opening from side seam at waist:

7 1/4 5 3/4

Zipper Zipper length 5 1/2

Back pockets: Pocket width on top 6 Pocket width at bottom 5 1/2 Pocket height at side 5 Pocket height at the centre 6 1/2 Pocket position from side seam: 2 Waistband: Waistband width: 1 1/2 belt loop length: 2 belt loop width: 1/2 Yoke: Yoke width at CB: 2 1/2 Yoke width at side seam: 1 1/4 53

Mens straight denim trousers

Double front pockets with zipper and leather corners at the back pockets

2 3/4

6

1 1/4 5 6 1/2 5 1/2

1 3/4

leather piece

embroidery seam

54

SAMPLE OF DENIM no.2 Women’s boyfriend cut jeans

Woman’s boyfriend cut jeans with damages

55

Women’s boyfriend cut jeans

Woman’s boyfriend cut jeans with damages Fabric: SS1693b5 ZIN (limited) Thread color: TBD Specifications: Inseam (final) 28 Leg opening 12 1/2 Fly stitch length from seam: 5 Front pockets: Pocket opening at side seam: 2 1/2 Pocket opening from side seam at waist: 5 Coin pocket width 3 Coin pocket height 2 1/2

Back pockets: Pocket width on top 6 Pocket width at the bottom 5 Pocket height at the sides 5 pocket height at the centre 6 Pocket position from side seam 2 Waistband: Waistband width: 1 1/2 belt loop length: 2 1/2 belt loop width: 1/2 Yoke: Yoke width at CB: 1 Yoke width at side seam: 2 1/4

56

Women’s boyfriend cut jeans

Woman’s boyfriend cut jeans with damages

2 1/2

6 1/2

1 1/2

1

57

SAMPLE OF DENIM no.3 Women’s moto jacket

Women’s moto waist jacket with zipper pockets

58

Women’s moto jacket

Women’s moto waist jacket with zipper pockets Fabric- TBD - blue coating Thread- matching blue coating 4

1 3/

above elbow line

6 1/2

23

2 4

2 9

59

Women’s moto jacket

Women’s moto waist jacket with zipper pockets

4

17

60

CREATING SKIPPY LOGO During the internship I was given a nickname “Skippy” by accident. We used this to create a logo that was later on used on the garments from the collection. Below you can see a sketch of the logo: Skippy by PPJ:

chosen logo

61

62

6. CONCLUSION

PPJ’s new collection is composed of designs that could bring a new innovative insight into the internal collection of the company. The collection is designed to inspire and impress customers coming to the showroom rather than to be sold. Both, womenswear and menswear are composed of garments that use various washes, dyes, colours or laser techniques.

product does not turn out as desired, designer should come up with correcting method or take another 3 weeks to receive another sample.

4.

Designer needs to be aware of customers’ needs. The designer should always have in mind who is the buyer. Buying brands are looking to sell, not to stun with creativity. Price, design and buyer’s requirements should all be coherent, therefore designer needs to be aware of costs of each procedure.

Use of laser machine on most of the garments ensures the customer about PPJ’s concerns in making most eco-friendly garments possible.

5.

Vietnamese mentality is another challenge that the designer should bear with. It is important that the designs communicate clearly and techpacks visibly state what is the final look designer wishes to achieve.

In case PPJ employs a full-time fashion designer, the designer should be aware of trending innovations in eco-friendly production and give these very high priority when designing.

Main issues the designer should deal with are :

6.

Keeping up-to-date with innovations in sustainability is crucial for suggesting new innovation methods and proposals for new technical equipment. Nowadays, PPJ is equipped with laser, ozone and EIM system, but in the close future there might be another ways of saving energy and workers health.

1.

The time necessary for designing, developing spec drawings and tech pack should be shorter than 2 weeks. Potential designer would be responsible for all, woven, knit and denim bottoms and tops for men and women, and should therefore be able to create a full collection in about 6-8 weeks. This is due to time that it takes for the product development team to develop the first sample.

Overall, the collections should take the least time possible to be designed. Collections should follow the newest trends and showcase various possibilities of technology use at PPJ.

2.

First sample might also be the final sample. The designer should be experienced with measurements of the garments and make the least mistakes possible. If a garment is send back for re-sampling, it might take more than 4 weeks to receive the new sample.

Current collection is a bit more experimental than what customers are looking for, but brings a fresh point into the existing collection in the showroom.

3.

Designer should have a clear idea of washing possibilities. Washing is crucial part when working with trousers, especially denim.

Designer can try several finishing methods on prepared leg panels. However if the final

Most of the designs are still being produced and therefore only woven garments are analysed in this report. On these, it is visible how important is making several prototypes and experimenting with different techniques.

63

7. REFLECTION

Throughout the process of developing Skippy

by PPJ collection, I learned how to be focused on the reality. Will the garment sell? That is the most often asked question when creating a garment for production.

I learned how to be focused on details (pockets, type of pocketing, beltloops, waistband, washing, dry finishes), rather than challenging the whole look to be creative and innovative. Time pressure pushed me to think effectively and work precisely, not allowing errors to come in the way.

Designing denim is a whole category in clothing and therefore trying all the finishes personally reinforced my denim knowledge greatly. It is impossible to understand denim just by learning about it. In my mind, it opened endless possibilities for working with garments, as usually I do not have these kind of options during the school assignments.

There are a lot of changes that could have been made on final garments and however, another samples were rarely possible, I learned how to improve the garments and what is necessary to be improved or changed on garment in order to attract more customers.

Following suppliers meetings with Kurabo, Marubeni and others gave me a great insight into what to look for in a fabric. Following the work of Esprit designer and he assistant, taught me how little details can make a significant changes in a garment overall impression.

Looking back, I wish I have worked even faster and stayed until the collection was produced completely. Even though I will receive photos of final designs, it would be very helpful to see denim garments changing from unwashed to treated by various finishing techniques.

64

8. BIBLIOGRAPHY

Nguyen Huu Phuc, 2015, Vietnam textile & Garment Industry 2014 – 2015, Report, Ho Chi Minh City 2015, Phong Phu International, Solution for your sucess, 2015, Annual report, Ho Chi Minh City 2015, Sustainability at Phong Phu International, Report, Ho Chi Minh City www.wgsn.com 2015, WGSN, Denim, Spring Summer 2016, Powerpoint presentation 2015, St. John’s Bay, March, April, May, 2016, La Dolce Vita, presentation 2015, Stylus, March, April, May, 2016, presentation 2015, Retailing tomorrow, cotton, report http://www.ppj-international.com http://www.jeanologia.com ttp://eim.jeanologia.com/ http://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news/newsdetails.aspx?news_id=167334 http://www.justmeans.com/blogs/hm-proves-sustainable-fashion-is-possible www.pinterest.com http://www.cutlasercut.com/laser-cutting-materials-laser-engraving-materials/laser-engraving-denim http://www.kurabo.co.jp/english/ https://www.marubeni.com www.denim.sk www.denimblog. com www.esprit.com www.esprit.eu

65

www.tom-tailor.eu http://rockrevival.com http://www.express.com http://www.soliver.eu https://corporate.target.com/about/ http://www.chicos.com/store/page.jsp?id=39 http://fashionary.org/blog/denim-finishing/

66

9. APPENDICES In separate appendices you can find: 1. INTERNSHIP PORTFOLIO

- woven sketches

- woven techpacks

- knit sketches

- knit techpacks

- denim sketches

- denim techpacks 2. SAMPLE BOOK

- woven samples

- knit samples

- denim samples

- laser experiments

67

10. CONTACTS

USA Contact Patrik Dooley Vice President of Business Development 3151 Oak Tree Drive Centerton , AR 72719 USA Phone: (214) 504-5958 email: Patrick.dooley@ppj-international.com Asia Contact Peter Nguy Director of business Development Tel: (848) 73056886 Fax: (848) 3728 1846 Phone: (84) 978 526 092 email: nhlduc@ppj-international.com European Contact Jerome Lallouette Managing Director Tel: (848) 7305 6886 Fax: (848) 3728 1846 Phone: (84) 979 470 180 email: Jerome@ppj-internationa.com Responsible for designing the collection: Margareta Sopkova allias Skippy Tel: +421 944 081971 email: margareta.sopkova@gmail.com

68

69