Mare | AMFI |Processbook: Dear Fashion

PROCESSBOOK DEAR FASHION MARE 118i

YOU AND YOUR WADROBE week 1

Have you bought a new clothing related item in the past month?

Yes, I have bought a black basic pants from Uniqlo, A secondhand Weekday green workwear pants from the IJhallen and a dark green sweater that I got for free from my work; The New Originals.

On average, do you add at least one new item to your wardrobe a month?

Yes, I think so. I buy a lot on the secondhand clothing app Vinted, like fast-and high-end fashion brands, but than secondhand. I also work in a vintage store and at a clothing brand. So it’s seductive to buy something new every month.

Do you swap and borrow clothes?

Yes, I try to clean out my closet every two months, what I don’t wear I put in a bag. And if I don’t touch the bag for longer than a month, I will try to sell it on secondhand clothing apps like Vinted and United Wardrobe. And sometimes I’ll safe everything up and sell it at the IJhallen in AMSTERDAM. Do you buy sustainable brands?

Not really, cause most of those brands are pretty expensive. But I would love to in the future, to really invest in good quality and sustainable made clothes.

Do you prefer quality over quantity?

Yes, I work in a vintage store for a few years now and there I really realized it’s really important to buy clothes that have good quality. These pieces can last long, that means after you wear them you can donate them to someone else instead of having a lot of clothes and not wearing them at all.

Do you change your looks & outfits according to the latest trends?

Not really, I only wear clothes that are comfortable, since I’m working a lot. I’m also really into utility and workwear and I love the colors Navy and black. Since a few year I’m holding on to this style, cause I noticed when buying something that’s trending, I never wear it often.

Are you influenced by surroundings and/or social in your dress and shopping behavior?

Yes and no, since I’m working at a vintage store and a fashion brand. It’s easy to get influenced into buying new things. But since I’m so surrounded by clothes, I try to really think about my shopping behavior. I ask myself some standard questions before buying something, I also love to wait a few days. If I still want it after those days, then I know I will wear it often.

Do you look inside the care label when you buy a garment?

Actually no, not when buying new things. I do IT when I’m in a vintage store, cause I always look for the brands that I know that have good quality.

YOU AND YOUR WADROBE week 1

Fashion to me is about individuality and functionality.

When it comes to clothing I think comfort is important.

Fashion should not only be about consuming.

But about creativity and self-expression.

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my inspiration for the instagram account The inspiration for my Instagram came actually from two influences: productshots and my own Tumblr. I wanted to portrait my clothes in a way they would be clear. Just like a productshot for a brand. So I made a small studio at my home, shot my clothes on a white background. And cut out every piece in P ho t oshop .

scan link to visit my dear fashion instagram account week 1

But I didn’t wanted it to be boring, so I went to my Tumblr. Everyday I try to take a few minutes and search for new pictures that inspire me to add to my page. So now I have a full blog with inspirational pictures, when I’m lost or in need of a new idea I always look at my own page So I took the pictures that fitted the clothing items the most and insert the pictures on them.

The pictures gives my whole page a vintage look, it’s messy but still organized: A beautiful mess, I would call it. Just as my closet, when I think of it now it’s truly a reflection of my closet and the clothes I have.

link to my tumblr

CMI - Closet Mass INDEX

CMI - questions

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CMI - Clothing Mass Index T-shirts Tops Blouses Sweaters Cardigans Dresses Jumpsuits Suits / Sets Jeans Trousers Shorts Skirts Coats Jackets Blazers Traditional wear Accessoiries Shoes

Total How many items of the total amount are from a sustainable brand?:

QUESTIONS:

NEW

OLD <1yr

SECOND HAND

TOTAL

4 4 1 5 1 0 0 0 1 4 1 1 0 2 0 0 3 6

5 1 2 3 0 0 0 1 2 1 0

5 4 4 5 0 10 1 0 4 3 0 5 5 8 0 0 5 6

14 9 7 13 1 10 1 1 7 8 1 6 5 11 0 0 9 27

24

0 1 0 0 1 15

16

54

94

% 15% 10% 7% 14% 1% 11% 1% 1% 7% 9% 1% 6% 5% 12% 0% 0%

100%

Note down amount of garments that you haven't worn in the past 6 months 1 0 1 3 0 3 0 1 1 1 0 1 2 1 0 0 2 9 Total amount of unworn garments in wardrobe: 15

0

1. What is the top/bottom ratio in your wardobe?: Tops 48% en Bottoms 15% 2. What is the division of basics/seasonal/top fashion garments?: I think it’s even.

3. Do you see a pattern in the items that you don’t wear?: The colors don’t suit me.

4. Where do you shop the most?: Online secondhand shops like Vented, Uniqlo & I get a lot of clothes as a gift.

5. What is your main trigger for buying garments (fit, price, etc?): A long lasting item, a timeless piece.

6. Which materials do you prefer the most?: 100% Cotton 7. Do you wear every item that is in your closet? (seasonal): No, I order my closet into a winter and summer wardrobe 8. What do you do with the clothing that you don’t wear/want anymore?: Sell it online or at the IJhallen.

9. What would you like to keep the same or change after seeing your CMI?: Change, I have to get rid of the thing I haven’t worn.

10. Which garment has the most emotional value to you?: My black pants, I almost wear them everyday cause they’re so comfy and they look good with everything.

11. Do you follow the care label instructions for all garments?: Yes, I don’t want my clothes to get ruined.

12. Do you repair any of the garments if they are broken/damaged?: I try to with shoes, and with clothes 9/10 times my grandma fixes them.

What is the bottom and top ratio in your wardrobe?

Tops 48% and bottoms 15% What is the division of basics/seasonal/top fashion garments?

I think it’s even. When shopping, I don’t really look at seasonal items. When a shirt has short sleeves, I will layer it in the fall or winter.

Do you see a pattern in the items that you don’t wear?

Yes, every time I don’t wear something anymore, it’s because of the color. Especially when it’s a heavy or bright color. I more wear navy, black or dark green.

Where do you shop the most?

Online secondhand shops like Vinted, I bought and sold a lot on there. Uniqlo is the only fast fashion shop I like, cause they have a lot of basics. I also get a lot of clothes gifted, from my work for example.

What is your main trigger for buying garments?

The item needs to have the right color, that match with everything. I also look at the fabrics, so I know it will last long. Basically it needs to be a timeless piece.

Which materials do you prefer the most?

100% Cotton and cashmere.

Do you wear every item that is in your closet?

No, I try to divide my closet once the season is changing. Like summer dresses and shorts. I try to wear my tops and shirts with short sleeves in the winter also, like layers.

What do you do with the clothing that you don’t wear/want anymore?

As I said before, I love the app Vinted. I sold a lot of my old clothes on there. But sometimes I save everything and gather my friends, and we book a stand on16% the IJhallen, a secondhand market in Amsterdam.

Which garment has the most emotional value to you?

A brown Dries van Noten dress from my mom, she wore it when she was my age. And since this summer she handed it to me.

Do you follow the care label instructions for all garments?

Yes, I had too many times where I washed my clothes and something got smaller or got a different color… So I’m trying to pay more attention now to the labels so my clothes won’t get ruined again.

Do you repair any of the garments if they are broken/damaged?

My grandma is my lifesaver, she always fixes clothes when something is broken.

What would you like to change after seeing your CMI? After making the CMI I really got an overview of what I have in my closet, every morning I struggle with making outfits. But that is because I’m not wearing half of my closet, so that’s why I want to get rid of a lot of clothes. And really focus on timeless pieces.

What struck you while doing the CMI? Why? It’s funny cause I didn’t realize I had so much vintage and secondhand clothes. But when I think about it now, it’s not very surprising since I have been working in a vintage store for a few years now. Actually, I thought I would own more clothes, but the lower number actually surprised me. I think it’s because I have this rule: every time I buy something, something that I didn’t wear in a long time, needs to go.

What impact has the CMI assignment had on you? Why? It makes me more aware of the clothes that I already own, and what I don’t wear anymore. I’m missing a lot of basics and key pieces to make outfits with.

It gave me the chance to filter my closet and make a truly selection of what I want to have and still wear.

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C O E M L M A G RM T I U F NI EN TY week 2

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C O E M L M A G RM T I U F NI EN TY week 2

elena bernadine from class 112i

her jacket from mango

C O E M L M A G RM T I U F N EN ITY

the jackets are from bonne suits

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C O E M L M GARM T I U F N EN ITY

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1. I bought this Jacket from Unrecorded, at the store in the Utrechtsestraat.

her jacket from UNRECORDED

2. I saw the Jacket in the store before when I went there, but I didn’t got it for the first time.

And then I considered to get a basic black jacket. And then I got it there, but I was really thinking about it for two months like should I get it or not? And another reason that I got it, it’s because Unrecorded self. I really admire what they do with sustainability.

And when I started with AMFI, I’ve made a deal with myself to not buy fast fashion anymore.

3. I’m not wearing this jacket as often as I like to, but the problem is. The jacket is too cold, you can’t wear a thick sweater underneath it. And you could wear the jacket under another coat but then also 50% of my closet doesn’t fit with the worker wear style of the jacket.

4. I think I would see myself still wearing it in five years, but who knows I’m such a changing person that changes all the time. So maybe I would not like that jacket anymore, but I doubt it cause it’s such a timeless piece. And you could always wear it, so I’ll hope I will still wear it then.

C O E M L M GARM T I U F N EN ITY

week 2

1. When we were with the whole family in Antwerp, I bought this jacket in a vintage store there. I could not remember the name of the store anymore.

2. I saw the jacket by accident, the jacket reminded me of my time in Portugal when I was younger. The husband of the sister of my grandma had the same similar jacket with matching trousers. He was always riding on a horse. Back then a lot of these jackets were worn in Portugal. So that’s why I bought it.

3. I only wear the jacket in the summer cause it’s very thin and perfect as a summer layer. But too cold for the winter.

4. Yes, I can see myself wearing the jacket in five years cause it’s timeless, doesn’t belong to a trend and it’s a strong material.

now:

le bleu de travail

Originally worn as a work jacket in the 1920s by construction and other hands-on workers.

museum visit: 2019 week 2

Last year, in 2019, I went to the Gemeente Museum in The Hague. There was an exhibition called; Femme Fatale. It was the first exhibition about fashion history focused on female designers. The exhibition included work

by Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin, Elsa Schiaparelli, Mary Quant, Vivienne Westwood, Sonia Rykiel, Miuccia, Prada and many Dutch greats like Fong Leng, Iris van Herpen, etc.

back then:

MY GARMENT

WORKWEAR

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the French chore jacket has emerged 100 years later as a versatile style statement that goes with everything.

COLOR: INDIGO BLUE / FRENCH BLUE

When visiting the museum, I could remember I took a picture of a suit. And now it reminded me of the jacket that I chose for Dear Fashion. It’s also a workwear suit, with the same style jacket. I couldn’t remember the name of the designer anymore, but I found it really interesting that it’s made by a woman. Cause these workwear suits really have a manly esthetic to them, at least that’s the feeling that I get. Cause of the workers in the factory, back then only men wore these suits.

F a b r i c:

For me that’s really special, cause I’m wearing a lot of workwear. Now it’s really normal for women to wear that type of clothes. conclusion: This exhibition and the jacket reminds me of equal rights. now:

t w i l l

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WORKWEAR BECAME A TREND. MANY BRANDS AND VINTAGE STORES SELL THE WORKWEAR JACKET AGAIN.

weave technique: herringbone

Le bleu de travail:

the history of the french workwear jacket

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late 1800’s The french chore coats were worn daily with matching trousers. the jacket was mostly worn by farmers, craftsman, auto workers and railway workes.

S c a n

The most used color was indigo or french blue. It’s made from twill cotton and mostyly weaved with the herringbone technique.

To protect the labourers from the country’s windiest and wettest months, it’s also crafted for easier movement when it came to physical tasks.

s O U R C E S

the patches had different meanings, for example the front patch pocket was designed to fit an store small tools in it.

1923

1940

paul newman wore the jacket on screen in 1976

French factory workers in the late

1800’s

1800

THE HISTORY OF THE CARHARTT WIP CHORE JACKET

the first chore jacket by carhartt wip was made in 1923

1980

2000’s

NOW

1976 - Movie: cool hand luke OVER THE TIME THE JACKET BECAME MORE POPULAR. WHILE THE WORKERS WERE still WEARING IT ON THE FIELDS IN FRANCE during their WORk, THE JACKET REACHED THE BIGGER CROWD. that’s because THE MOVIE; COOL HAND LUKE, WITH PAUL NEWMAN CAME OUT IN 1976. with that movie the french chore coat has made it’s entrance into the popular and a more bigger crowd.

IN 1976 A BIGGER WORKWEAR BRAND: CARHARTT WIP MADE THE FIRST BLUE JACKET INSPIRED BY THE CHORE/WORKWEAR STYLE

NOW

HISTORY: Le Mont St Michel Since 1913 Le Mont St Michel is specialized in making everlasting workwear. The brand was named after the the city that was just a few miles away from the famous abbey.

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In 1919 Caroline started a textile company: Les Tricotages de L’Aa’. It was a factory school for young women whose fathers, brothers and husbands had not returned from World War I. In 1964, Lessafre’s grandson modernized the company by installing knitting machines. The tricotages de La L’Aa continued to prosper by manufacturing for well-known designers such as Agnès B, Gerard Darel and Joseph.

In 1998, Alexandre Milan, stepped in his fathers feet and b ecame head of the company. He re-invented the brand and modernize it, but still with a view on the workwear style.

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HE’S KNOWN FOR HIS SMART SHIRT,KHAKI TROUSERS AND DEEP BLUE CHORE JACKET: BILL CUNNINGHAM. THE INFLUENTIAL 87-YEAROLD NEW YORK FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER. HE’S SO KNOWN FOR THE JACKET THAT PEOPLE EVEN REFER TO HIS NAME TO POINT OUT THE BLUE COLOUR. (now)

amsterdam based brand: bonne suits who make jackets inspired by the chore/workwear Jacket (now)

ICONIC MOMeNTS WITH the chore/ WORKWEAR jaCket throughout the years week 2

VETEMENTS SPRING 2016 COLLECTION (2016)

kanye west is wearing a workwear/chore inspired jacket by dickies at the met gala in 2019.

My Reflection: this shows that the style of this jacket is still in fashion and now even accepted as a red carpet look.

tupac is wearing the carhartt wip jacket inspired by the chore jacket (90s)

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Weaving technique: Herringbone

Twill fabric

Herringbone can be made from different fabrics. People also know it as a broken twill weave. You can recognize the pattern by the V-shape. They’re arranged into columns, all the lines in the one column will kind of lean one way and in the next. So eventually they will be the opposite direction. It looks like the spine of a fish, like a herring. That’s why it’s called herringbone.

You probably see this fabric everyday, sometimes even unnoticed. Think of

Most of the time it’s made from wool or tweed. But you can use this technique on almost every material, even paper. The herringbone technique is not used for fabric only, originally they also used it during the Roman Empire. They used it in their roads, you can still see the pattern in the streets today. You could also recognize in some school hall floors, especially in the U.K. The herringbone weave is very popular in menswear, especially in suits, still often made in wool.

your couch or jeans for example. The weave consists of diagonal lines, which are created by an offset in the warp threads. Twill can hide stains well, it’s used for jeans, chinos, furniture coverings, bags and many more.

The fibers used for twill are often cotton and polyester, or a blend Scan sOURCES

of the two. With twill, the weft thread is woven over one or more warp threads and then under one or more warp threads. Most of the times twill fabrics are not printed on, but you can use more colored yarns to create designs like tweed and hound stood.

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Color: Indigo Blue

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shoulder seam to cuff

shoulder to shoulder seam

Waist

bottom of collar to hem

armpit to armpit

mid neck to cuff end

A few centuries ago, indigo was so exclusive, only the royalty could afford it. It got the same status as tea, coffee, silk or even gold. The name Indigo blue literally means: â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Indianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Besides India, indigo is also relatable to the tropical zones in Africa and China. Five-thousand years a go our ancestors in India, East Asia and Egypt used the blue dye from the Indigofera Tinctoria plant to dye their clothes.

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You have to soak the plant in water to let the indica, the amino acid, release glucose. Then they indica starts to ferment with the other plant enzymes. What will come out is called: Indoxyl. If you let it dry in the air, the blue indigo will appear.

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DOCUmentary: positive look on the fashion industry

DOCUmentary: negative look on the fashion industry week 4

week 4

Close Up: Yohji Yamamoto Rebel in black

Stacey Dooley The Dirty Secrets of Fashion

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luxery brand:

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luxery brand: raf simons JACKET - SS21 WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION

PRICE + SIZE + PRODUCT INFO: UNKNOWN (Cause it’s fresh of the runway) For the first time, Raf Simons made an SS21 Womens Collection. The collection is inspired by the youth, the collection is called: “Teenage Dream”.

Raf used many influences from the seventies for this collection, think of flared pants, psychedelic prints and colors.

In this collection he’s also using the style and color of the traditional worker wear jacket. Ofcourse in a renewed style, you can see that he added pictures to the jacket, also it got a more oversized style than the regular worker wear jacket. You could say the style is a mix of a worker wear jacket and a poncho.

Raf Simons is a Belgian Fashion Designer.

He began in furniture design, but in 1995 he started with his own menswear brand: Raf Simons. Over the years Raf has been a creative director for big brands such as; Jill Sander, Christian Dior and Calvin Klein.

Since this year, April, he’s the co-creative director for Prada.

His first runway shows, around FW1995 and 1996, he showed them through video or photo’s. But in 1997 he had his first runway show in Paris. The origin of the brand: Raf Simons, is in Antwerp, Belgium. The fabrics that are used for the clothes of Raf Simons are being made in a Danish Factory: Kvadrat. They’re producing high-end fabrics for the world’s leading creatives.

It’s a technological space, which transforms vibrant threads of infinite length into mounds and rolls of premium fabrics.

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Differences

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s branding on this jacket, the printed pictures. Also the jacket from Raf Simons has a more oversized fit than my jacket.

Similarities

drawing

Kvadrat, denmark

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The jacket of Raf Simons has the same indigo blue color as my own jacket. Next to that, the style of the jacket is the same as mine.

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Brand information: Weekday is a fast fashion brand, part of the H&M chain. They sell minimalistic clothes, basics and jeans, mainly focused on the Scandinavian Style. The brand was founded in 2002, it started as a small denim and vintage store in Stockholm. Örjan Andersson and Adam Friberg started with the small store in a not so popular area of Stockholm. The store became actually pretty successful and especially under the younger people. The store was only open on Saturdays and Sundays, back then it was called: Weekend.

fast fashion brand: weekday jillian JACKET

Fast PRODUCT: PRICE: SIZE: XS

Fashion

Brand:

WEEKDAY

Jillian -

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Jacket 60EU XL

PRODUCT INFO: Cotton 100% / Do not tumble dry / 40 degrees machine wash / Do not dry clean / Wash with similar colours / Iron medium heat / Do not bleach Product

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Number: 0845822001

Product description from their website: “The Jillian Jacket is a classic workwear piece cut in A-lined silhouette. Made of authentic rigid organic cotton denim, it has a concealed button placed, a big collar and a pair of squared patch pockets”

A few years later they got noticed by the bigger crowd, they moved to a more central store and the assortment got bigger. With this change they also felt natural for them to change the opening hours to Monday to Sunday, so the name changed to Weekday. They continued with expanding in Sweden, in 2008, H&M bought a 60% stake in Weekday’s parent company: Fabric Scandinavian. They also owned denim brand; Cheap Monday and the label; Monki. After two years, H&M bought the remaining 40% of the stake.

The design team of Weekday often look at art or music as an inspiration for the collection. They often travel together and get inspired by a mood or feeling. A bit unusual is that Weekday is not afraid to shout what they’re believe in, compared to other fast fashion brands. Weekday marks itself as modern and mindful. Looking at their previous campaigns, they made a range of collection without any gender in mind, named after the days of the week. They also designed reflective accessories to encourage costumers to stay safe during dark winter nights.

fast fashion brand

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Brand information: But many people that shop at Weekday know their project called: Zeitgeist. In this project Weekday makes several prints inspired by anything that’s happening in the world. They will print them on T-Shirts and tote bags.

weekday sustainability

Weekday their target group is relative young, it’s very millennial. By focussing on social discussions and addressing them, the younger crowd does not only just come at Weekday to shop. But also cause they are interested in the brand and their values.

Next to addressing these issues, Weekday is focussing on sustainability. They use organic denim for their jeans and for their basic jersey fabric they use organic cotton. In 2017 they even made a swimwear collection made from recycled polyester and polyamide.

Differences

The color is ofcourse different but also the style of the jacket. the weekday jacket has a more boxy and modern oversized fit.

Similarities

The jillian jacket has the same collor, style and pockets as my jacket. It’s also inspired by the workwear style.

On their website you can find their whole plan on sustainability. And you can check what they’re already doing and still wanting to change. their sustainability page on their website:

scan for the webpage:

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drawing

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Brand

VINTAGE: Jacket from vintage shop Betty Jane

BRAND: PRICE: SIZE:

Vintage

WORKWEAR

information:

When I saw the brand I didn’t knew what it was, then I researched it on Google and saw that it was a Menswear brand, specialized in jeans. The brand was made by Vijay Kapoor. Back then, he was working as a salesmen. He recognized that all the salesmen who sold items, wore expensive looking suits. So one day he bought a suit and tie, and everybody acted differently with him.

vintage jacket from BETTY JANE

PRODUCT:

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Jacket DERBY 50EU XL

This jacket is from the vintage shop where I work: Betty Jane. At first I didn’t look at it and walked past by it. But then, when I was making the clothing recks neat again, I suddenly saw it. It was way too big, but it had the same style as my chosen garment.

That’s when he realized he wanted to start a brand that sells simple and good looking clothes for men. Also, all the other brands were offering western fits, with his experience in tailoring for Indian body types he decided to to it differently with his brand. His brand especially was popular in different Indian cities, but in 2011 he realized his target group had aged. He needed to invest in e-commerce, that costed the brand a lot of money. Even so much money that they went bankrupt, the final sales are being sold to different outlets all over India now.

It’s funny that I found this jacket in the vintage store where I work, mostly my boss buys the clothing in, in Antwerp, Belgium. So it’s pretty bizarre that a jacket from India ends up in a secondhand shop in Amsterdam. When my boss buys things for the store she always looks at three things: the quality, the damage and the fabrics/material of the garment.

There wasn’t a care label in there, but by feeling the fabric I suggest that it’s cotton.

vintage

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Differences drawing

Ofcourse the color of the jacket is different, but I also think the fabric is different. I think this is cotton instead of twill.

Similarities

Although the jacket is way bigger than my size, the style is the same as my jacket. This jacket also has the same pocket as mine and the same collar and style buttons.

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betty jane

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Brand

street

brand:

PRODUCT: BRAND:

bonne

suits

bonne bonne

suit suits

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225EU XXXS-

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Bonne Reijn is the owner of Bonne Suits, when he was young he started working as a stylist.

He noticed something, he was missing something in the variety of clothing that is available to us. He felt the need to create something that would be oblivious to any occasion, sec, age or social expectation. It needed to be something that would be a key piece in anyone’s life and wardrobe, suitable for informal and formal occasions and with a long lasting quality.

high street brand: bonne suits

high

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XXL

PRODUCT INFO: Full suit in 100% cotton twill - Everyday Wear Unisex Fit- Focus on durability - Easy to take care of - Made in Portugal Product description from their website: “The Bonne Suit has a simple design aimed at every day use. The heavy cotton fabric is sturdy but soft and gives the suit a classic feel, while the double-breasted closing allows to change the style to fit any occasion.”

In 2014 Bonne designed his first batch of black and white two pieced suits and labels them BONNE. Now you can find these suits for sale in different colors and fabrics. The sizes variety from XXXS to XXL, to fit all men and women.

Bonne suits doesn’t work with seasonal collection, they have runs. In every run you have the same suit, but with a different design or color. When the runs drop, is up to the brand. They produce their clothes in Portugal and also get their fabrics from there.

For me Bonne Suits is a good example of a brand that doesn’t need to green wash themselves. They’re a sustainable brand by heart, that’t how they started in my eyes at least. When you’re having one suit in your whole collection, and the style and fit doesn’t change that much, You have one product that you can offer. And you also make it suitable for everyone by offering many sizes and colors. So in my opinion, Bonne Suits their message is already very sustainable and gets you as a consumer thinking about your shopping behavior.

high street brand

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Differences drawing

the style of this jacket is slighlty different then mine, it has bigger pockets and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s double breasted. the collar is also different.

Similarities

the workwear style is the same as my jacket.

Also the placement of the pockets are the same.

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bonne suits

#WHO MADE MY CLOTHES? week 4

It was sad to see that the care label of my garment totally fade away. So that got me to the idea to research some other brands that make traditional workwear jackets.

Earlier in my history I saw that the brand: Le Mont ST Michel, also makes the traditional workwear jacket. They even have their own factory in France.

That’s when I thought I should research France more, cause that’s one of the countries that popped up when I typed in: traditional workwear jacket. Then I saw the brand: Vetra. In the 20’s the Beerens family is based in Paris. Edouard receives the aprons and overalls atelier from his mother as a gift for his wedding. The atelier is based in Paris, it was not long until Edouard created his brand: Vetra, in 1927.

He made a wide range of workwear garments for men’s, the space became too small quickly for all the facilities they needed to make the clothes. So the brand moves to the North of France. Many pieces were made in the factory, but also some workers were sewing on their own machines at home.

Many people in Edouard his family also joined the company, but in the end it was Patrick, his grandson, that joined in 1988 and still works there.

They still make the workwear clothes in the factory in North of France, but in 1964 the production growth was reaching the limit and a lot of the workers already needed to come from 20-kilometers around. So they decided to open a new factory at Noyant. In the 80’s and 90’s the industrial business came up, that meant many manufacturers knew how to make the most clothes within a short period of time. In the decades 2000 till 2010 the business completely changed, cause there was suddenly a worldwide competition coming from low-cost countries. The mark: Made in France, moved to a smaller scale factories in market niched with quality garments.

I think it’s really nice to see that a family brand is still producing traditional worker-wear. It gives me as a consumer more value than just buying something at a fast fashion brand. This family is working on this for ages, that means all their blood, sweat and tears is put into fine-tuning the whole process of making this type of garment. They really stayed true to themselves, and for me: I would rather pay some more money for a traditional workwear jacket, that I know is made in France by people who are specialized in that. Then buying it at a fast fashion brand, not knowing where it’s made but for a cheaper price. That’s why I also think this is more sustainable, cause it’s a more technical, better quality item.

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explanation of my care label week 5

For three years I’m working in a vintage store, and what I noticed is that so many garments didn’t had clothing labels no more. Most of the time they were faded away. And that was also the case with my chosen garment, I couldn’t find any information because it had faded away. So I came to the conclusion to make a care label especially for vintage stores, so they can write down the material they think it is. And the steps you have to follow when washing the clothing piece. So customers that are buying vintage also know how to take care of it.

A lot of times when customers come into my shop they’re asking me how to take care of a garment, I always try to find the fabric for material and let the costumer know how they should take care

my vintage workwear jacket care label

The #-number on the label is the quantity of the items in the store without a label.

On the back you find the percentage of what material the store thinks it is.

Also you find instructions on how to wash the garment, for example maybe you shouldn’t wash it at all, but just let it air dry.

week 2 isabella doelwijt

week 5 robbert doelwijt

GARMENT LETTER REVISITED week 5

tips for myself in the future

mini essay

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week 5

HOW YOUR

DID MY VIEW ON GARMENT FROM

MY DEAR FASHION GARMENT CHANGE ALL DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVES/THEORIES

In the past five weeks I’ve got to know more about myself, the garments that I wear, my shopping behavior and the special garment I choose for Dear Fashion. At first when I chose this garment I didn’t think it would have such a big impact on me. It was just a jacket that me and my mom shared, nothing really special. Honestly I didn’t thought I would get more knowledge or would be shocked by researching this jacket. But that wasn’t the case at all.

When I first looked at my garment I thought it was perfect for the assignment: it is a vintage worker wear jacket. My mom bought it in a vintage store in Belgium. We both loved it so much that we came to the conclusion of sharing it. So I thought: this is it. The jacket itself is already pretty sustainable, it’s not new and I already knew a bit of the history.

But then it all started to make sense, after the first weeks I started to have conversations with my parents about the jacket. And some interesting stories came up, for example my dad has the same style jacket and for him the jacket stood for nostalgia, it reminded him of his childhood in Portugal.

BY

LOOKING AT ON FASHION?

And my mom said that the jacket was a perfect example for her that fashion over the years actually doesn’t change, but it repeats itself.

You can compare my jacket with a jeans, as explained in the article of Sandra Curtis Camstock, she talks about blue denim as an American Icon. The jeans is a symbol for movement between social worlds and boundary crossing. A jeans is not specially made for a generation, gender, culture, religion or classes. Ofcourse, back then, this was different, just like my workwear jacket, the jeans was also made for the people in the working class. Only the ‘poor’ people with jobs in construction, the mines, farming, factory’s, etc. Wore the jeans, cause they were so heavy and protected them while working.

My jacket is also made of a heavy cotton and with a lot of pockets. Everything in and from the jacket is made for people who work hard.

Sandra explains how the jeans became American’s Icon, it’s funny to see how the jeans evolved in something that crosses all the boundaries we used to have. Now the jeans is for everybody and not only to classify a certain group of people in society.

And that’s the same with my jacket: I wear it, my mom wears it, my dad wears it, big brands make remakes on the jacket and even fast fashion brands produce modern versions of it. But for everyone of us, the jacket has an own meaning.

And that makes these iconic pieces special.

For me, my jacket also stands for freedom, at first that sounds maybe a bit odd. But Susan S. Bean describes it really beautiful in her article about Gandhi: “Spinning for Freedom”. Gandhi used spinning threads and making simple garments as a resistance to the colonial regime.

I found it really beautiful how Susan described Gandhi’s garments: “an evolved simple and practical costume that transcended cultural distinctions”. When I look at my own jacket I see the same; it’s a jacket that’s simple and was, back then, practically made for a purpose. But back then and even now it didn’t belong to any culture, gender or even a person. Yes, the workers would wear it, but there wasn’t a certain type of person who was supposed to wear the jacket. And even now, when workwear has made it come back; everyone wears it. Male, female, old, young, European, American, etc.

Even the diversity in brands that remake the jacket, their target group is so differently but they all choose to remake the same jacket.

With all this knowledge now, I’m very happy that I looked further than the information that I already knew. This garment is an iconic piece and yes indeed: fashion really repeats itself. For me, you can call an item iconic if you can answer these two questions with yes: Is the garment free of limitations? With that I mean; It doesn’t belong to anybody but it could actually belong to everybody? And is the garment crossing every boundary?

I’m highly convinced that my jacket is an iconic garment and for that I will worship and take good care of it, for forever.

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