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­­­­­­2 0/20 europe - March 2014

Brand profile Silvian Heach Interview Augusto Valentini Trends Art & Design Lenses & Technology Mazzucchelli 1849

TITANIUM ­­­­­­20/20 europe a Jobson publication nr. 02/2014 - Marzo - Anno XXV FGE Srl - Regione San Giovanni, 40 14053 Canelli (AT)


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SUMMARY

142722

What’s on in Europe

Titanium

32

Brand Profile Silvian Heach

3844 4858

Shows & Fairs

In Detail Silhouette

Interview Augusto Valentini

Editorial Framings

News

Trends Art & Design

69

62

European Lenses & Technology


EDITOR’S COMMENT

A NEW B2B APPROACH FOR TRADE FAIRS AND MEDIA Stefano Ampollini •

Editor in chief

s.ampollini@fgeditore.it

• The best way to face (and overcome) the crisis is to shorten the chain between the producer and the consumer. Trade fairs are the key link of this chain and they play a critical role in helping companies get to know the mood of the market and the needs of customers. MIDO is one of the biggest dates of the year for all eyewear firms and it represents a tremendous test of how great the distance is between the sector’s key figures. The goal is to break established patterns and make real a less separated approach between B2B and B2C: the brands have to communicate their values, innovations and designs to consumers. Through its collaboration with Milan’s Bocconi University and its involvement in Milan Design Week in April, MIDO is going in this direction. “Eyewear has rightly become a cult object and we must work at bringing it closer and closer to the general public”: that’s the aim of Cirillo Marcolin, chairman of MIDO. Even the media should follow this new pattern with new language and innovative schemes that respond to consumer tastes. That’s what the new edition of 20/20 Europe is trying to do, and this issue is just an example.


what ’s on in europe

VUARNET

50 years of history in one corner

Located in the 8th arrondissement of Paris, the shop embodies the new brand positioning beteween elegance, authenticity, passion and French touch

Independent since January 2013, Vuarnet is a luxury brand which delivers timeless and contemporary high quality sun protection inspired by its roots coming from the French Alps style, with elegance derived from a sport attitude. The brand created a new corner, with the aim of reconnecting with the brand’s roots and to provide a unique experience: there nothing is forgotten, from Jean Vuarnet, winner in downhill skiing at the 1960 Olympic Games in Squaw Valley and his iconic 002, to the mythical 006 of Alain Delon in La Piscine, through the reinterpretation of the Glacier and the highlighting of its know-how. The corner is located in rue Boissy d’Anglas close to Madeleine in the 8th arrondissement of Paris and it aims to embody the new brand positioning between elegance, authenticity, passion and an irresistible Frenchy touch. Around an animated 3D overview, visitors could live the Vuarnet experience, find vintage models, try the quality of mineral lenses and embrace more than 50 years of history. The shop therefore incarnates the evolution of the brand illustrating its DNA while highlighting its modernity that has been fed with its strong legacy. Then it must ensure the promise to live a genuine brand experience by providing access to the technicality of the product. Finally this Vuarnet corner should reactivate the emotional bond between the brand and its customers through the memories and the community spirit. 14


what ’s on in europe

OPAL

The super hero’s eyeglasses On sale from 28th February 2014, Spider-man is the new optical collection by Opal. The Marvel’s super hero is one of the most preferred character of children and boys, that's why the French brand launched a collection that include all Peter Parker’s world. Spider-Man's own colours are used in the many varied effects of colour and materials. The technically advanced eye shapes are teamed with dynamic temple designs. A collection that's as technically advanced and fun as the super hero himself. Little boys will feel so proud and confident with these new eyewear glasses.

POLARIS

The crispy touch of Staffan Preutz Design The innovative and unlimited eyewear is produced at Polaris Eyewear, the most North eyewear company in the world. The company, that been producing eyewear since 1979, get its inspiration from the surrounding with space for persons as well as souls. Also the big contrast, when it comes to lightness-darkness, cold crispy winter days – warm sunny summer days, all in a magical mix, is making them to who they are. This year, at Mido in Milan, Staffan Preutz Design launches a new feminine design that have this clean, clear and crispy feeling.

HENRY JULLIEN

OGI

Jasmine, the urban glasses

Xenia, the graceful eyewear

Continuing to enrich the “Urban” line, presented in 2011 to mark the 90th anniversary of the brand, Henry Jullien forge a new model in acetate, Jasmine. With its contemporary lines and sleek square on the hinge, symbol of the brand, this model is available in trendy colors such as peacock blue, the very chic nude & beige, or purple & smoke-grey. This Henry Jullien collection continues to reinforce an enduring spirit: understated distinction, premium finish and French manufacture. The model for women is available in three shapes and nine colors.

Seraphin introduces the Xenia, a feminine frame with classic vintage appeal. Combining a classic cat eye shape with enchanting pastel colors, like lilac, ivory and blush, the Xenia is a new charming addition to the Seraphin collection. Handcrafted from layered acetate, an overlay of translucent crystal illuminates the frame giving it a multidimensional appearance and a graceful, vintageinspired style. The opaque pastel create a glossy veneer that, accented with silver-tipped temples, boasts an eye for detail with charm and panache. 15


what ’s on in europe

ASTUCCI

Stand out in camouflage Camouf lage has always been around especially in 2013 fall’s runway. It’s not just reserved for the army and hunters. If wearing a piece of military outfit seems intimidating, one of the best ways to approach the camo trend is to start off with a piece of accessory. One piece printed with this stuff adds instant toughness to any outfit. A little goes a long way. Instead of blending in with the environment, Astucci’s designers try to play with the colors to make camouf lage more fun and outstanding.

ADLENS

The precious gift set It is the first time the Oxford-based company introduces a premium quality gift set product. The elegant black gift box, with its purple-coloured-plush velvet interior, contains a pair of John Lennon Limited Edition glasses, an embossed leather carrying case, a collector’s booklet, two sets of matching end-caps and instructions for use. The frames of this edition feature a metallic bronze colouration with a purple gradient, which is exclusive to this gift set. The John Lennon Limited Edition gift set extends Adlens’ product portfolio by introducing a 12th product to the John Lennon line. Based on the advanced f luid-injection technology, that allows instant vision correction and immediate dispensing, the design of The John Lennon Collection – endorsed by Yoko Ono – combines modern technology with the legendary style of the greatest rock’n’roll icon of all time, John Lennon. In keeping with its philanthropic heritage, Adlens donates a pair of glasses to someone in the developing world for every pair of f luid-injection glasses purchased through their "Buy One Give One" programme. Distribution of the glasses is administered by Vision for a Nation Foundation, a charity that runs an innovative programme that provides universal access to eyeglasses, one nation at a time, starting in Rwanda.

IC! BERLIN

U-Bahn, a personalized "tour of Berlin" East meets West, underground meets mainstream, day meets night. Berlin is a hybrid city where everything is possible and anything goes. ic! berlin presents its first collection of hybrid sunglasses at Mido: superfine acetate rims inside an unbreakable stainless steel frame. The U-Bahn collection is inspired by Berlin’s underground and fast rail networks. For Mido 2014 the german brand take customers on a personalised tour of Berlin sharing its favourite places, from the repurposed war-era airport at Tempelhof, to the centuries old architecture in Mitte and the cool street art and cafes of Kreuzberg and Neukölln. The model S3 Rummelsburg takes inspiration by the banks of the Spree where you can party with a few hundred of other people. If party aren’t made for you, at Rummelsburg Berlin you can also find a cabana on the man-made beach or grab a few beers and grill the night away at this hidden oasis. 16


what ’s on in europe

MARCHON

Liu Jo, natural femininity and glamour

With their natural femininity and glamour, the Liu Jo optical and sunglasses collections fit in perfectly with the look of the brand as a whole. The offerings for Spring/ Summer 2014 include sophisticated frames embellished with detailing that provides a clear link to the Liu Jo clothing style: f loral patterns, mini studs, gold and silver prints, sparkling logos and metallic elements give the eyewear collection a sense of femininity, grace and freshness. The crisp, soft colour selection includes delicate tones like ivory and white, as well as intense notes such as f luorescent and iridescent hues. The model LJ601S has a retro-inspired cat-eye shape with a f loral print on the frame front and temples. Crystal detailing sets off the logos on the temples.

L.G.R.

(Hand) made in Italy

FACE A FACE A punk touch

For this season L.G.R. introduces six new designs. Following the brand’s tradition for hand crafted eyewear and the last year’s success with metal and acetate combined frames, the brand has continued to play with those materials and integrate three new models into the collection. A round frame has also been created with f lat lenses, making it a new feature that is unique to the brand’s line. L.G.R. uses high definition mineral tempered lenses that are adapted to all sun frames and have sophisticated treatments to make them polarized neophan, photochromic and mirrored. The lens collection is offered in a wide array of harmonious nuances that perfectly combine with each color of acetate, enforcing the brand’s signature style of innovative design and timeless elegance. Each model is a product that is entirely handmade in Italy, where virtues from the past are transmitted into contemporary eyewear.

Exploring the territories of audacity and challenges, Pascal Jaulent, co-founder and Art Director of FACE A FACE, decided to diverte the strong codes of the Punk movement. Last year the French company reprint the Royal Stewart pattern, the aristocratic tartan that the Punk movement had used as its own right from its first steps and the PUNKIT collection, born last fall with two designs, soon became collectors right away. After these first frames, imagined as true manifesto and created to express rebellion and outrage, Pascal Jaulent now offers designs on a softer side, but nonetheless stunning. Dressed with small aluminum studs inserted at the end of the temples, and playing with sharp volumes reflecting the light and underlining their strong personality, these optical frames and sunglasses will seduce men and women with a bold character. 18


what ’s on in europe

EPOS

OKIA

The heroic spectacles

HDA Faces, a collection for every mood

In order to honour its name that evocates the epic poem of heroic feats, Epos devotes its new collection of glasses to Gods and Heroes by bringing its vintage style to the utmost. The line of glasses, made in cellulose acetate with high Italian quality, owns a taste out of time, while the metal ones are made to give a tribute to heroes’ courage and boldness. Their shapes and forms are harmonious, naturally and soberly coloured and inspired to the charme of the last century, but at the same time they are elaborated in a more modern style. Their shapes and forms come from the ancient time and they are proposed in the vintage style. Many pantoscopic models have “butterf ly” and “little cat” style in order to satisfy the exigency of every client. Among the last produce, Epos presents Epic Wood, the glass collection, that smiles to nature. The new Epic Wood frames are realized in acetato entirely hand brushed and, thanks to this material ductility, they allow to be worked easily, by maintaining the same aesthetic and tactile characteristics as the wood ones.

OKIA makes its comeback at Mido 2014 with a new collection named “HDA Faces”, utterly realized by means of its patented HDA Technology. The proposed new collection introduces a smart and stylish way of wearing eyeglasses: fronts of the frames are magnetic and can be matched with a variety of front films featuring any kind of pattern, in order to suit every personality. Thanks to the application of HDA Technology, the film is ultra thin – just 1.8 mm – and extremely lightweight. Moreover, a metal hook holds the changeable front film tightly, making it stick perfectly to the frame surface, for a tidy and refined look. “HDA Faces” enables to mix unlimited concepts, colours and patterns within a single frame. Changing of the film is very easy thanks to the metal hook system that allows ultra-quick conversion from one option to another one. The collection shows how HDA Technology can bring a new world of colour and pattern possibilities for fashion and lifestyle products but also enhance eyewear f lexibility. 20


brand profile

THE FIRST TIME FOR SILVIAN HEACH by Alessandra Albarello

A new eyewear line makes its debut – a new development from a red-hot brand synonymous with a self-aware, fresh, everyday femininity. We spoke to Mena Marano, Ceo of Arav Fashion SpA 22


BRAND PRofILE

The new international advertising campaign S/S 2014

Colourful, youthful yet sophisticated – such was the launch of Silvian Heach’s range of glasses and sunglasses. The fashion label established in 2002 is the entrepreneurial vision of Mena Marano and Giuseppe Ammaturo, respectively CEO and President of Arav Fashion SpA. Over time they have transformed their life’s dream into a number of successful brands, and even their own chain of dedicated sales outlets. Silvian Heach eyewear gives full expression to the inspirations and colours of Ageless, the new collection for Spring/ Summer 2014. The collection has developed along two principal themes – Real and Fresh – proposing casual combinations suited to any moment of the day, for real women with busy, energetic lives. The glasses complete this look with strong, simple shapes, in colour combinations that play with transparencies, but also with a mix of primary colours that recall the fabrics and patterns of the collection. Mena Marano gives us an insight into this new adventure.

FOR OUR ENTRY INTO THE EYEWEAR SECTOR WE TURNED TO THE CREATIVITY AND EXPERIENCE OF DESIGNER PAOLO SEMINARA

Before we get going, there’s something we’re curious to know: where does the name Silvian Heach come from? Mena Merano: I suppose I might describe the origins of the name as romantic. I was in Berlin with my husband, Giuseppe Ammaturo, in 2001. It was a key moment for

Eyeglasses Mexico 23


BRAND PRofILE

the company, insofar as we were looking to invest our experience in textiles in a new brand with international horizons. On a walk through the city, we saw graffitied on a wall “Silvian, ich liebe dich” (Silvian, I love you), and we were inspired. We engaged an agency to carry out a naming study and, playing with the assonance, the brand Silvian Heach was born. Your clothing lines are targeted at a young, highly fashion-aware, female market. What are the key elements of your style and how have you translated them to a line of eyewear? MM: Our mission has always been to create accessible fashion through which anyone can express her personality at any moment of the day. In the same way, we wanted a collection of eyewear that maintained these principles: “easy to wear” glasses and sunglasses, with a minimalist look and a colour range that ref lects the latest fashions. Can you tell us about this first eyewear collection that you are presenting at Mido? MM: For our entry into the eyewear sector we turned to the creativity and experience of designer Paolo Seminara to create a collection of 19 spectacle designs and 9 models of sunglasses, each one offered in five colour schemes. The material we chose was acetate, both transparent and printed, and we have gone for smart, minimalist shapes. From wider, retro frames to more contemporary, squarer styles, we have conceived a collection with something for every occasion. Which design best represents the collection? MM: I’d say, without doubt, the models that are closest to the iconic patterns and shades of our Spring/Summer ’14 collection. Loud, bright colours, mixes of f luorescent shades in keeping with the mood of the coming season. What led you to create the eyewear line, and what do you think is the current role of this accessory? MM: We wanted Silvian Heach to offer a broader and more complete lifestyle range. We are convinced that eyewear is, to all effects, an essential element of a total look. The evolution of glasses over the years is fascinating, and surprising if you consider that not so long ago they were simply considered a medical device, whereas today both glasses and sunglasses have their own fashions and collections.

Eyeglasses Mexico

When and where will your glasses be on sale, and what will they retail at? What are your sales expectations? MM: The greatest challenge has been to move into an entirely new area of distribution, that of eyewear. Organised entirely in house, the project outlines, for Italy, an extensive network with deep penetration in specialised optics and ophthalmology wholesale distribution channels. To achieve this, ARAV has invested in the creation of a dedicated sales network. The frames and sunglasses will be distributed with a recommended price of € 80/130.

Eyeglasses Butterf ly

24


TITANIUM Adaptable and biocompatible, strong and light at the same time, titanium represents the ideal material with which to give glasses a sophisticated but unostentatious identity

1. Blackfin 2. Silhouette 3. Gรถtti 4. Modo 5. Charmant 6. Porsche Design

1

3

2

4

6 5


titanium

by Alessandra Albarello

An adaptable, biocompatible material, titanium is used in various contexts, and has even been to the Moon‌

L

ess is more. In the second half of the 1980s, and the early 1990s, this phrase came to define an aesthetic inspired by a new life-philosophy. Fashion began to look to the East in particular, to an intrinsic beauty based on the essential, the pure and the simple. Minimalism provided the ideal template for a new language relying on discrete but recognisable signs and demanding, in certain contexts, a different approach in terms of materials. The field of eyewear saw just this reaction to the maximalism of the 70s and first half of the 80s, which had been an excess of plastic and invasive volumes. The new fashion in glasses was discrete, looking to the reduced, spare forms of the start of the 20th Century and rediscovering metal. With its neutral coldness, metal more than any other material evoked lightness, in counterpoint to the overabundance of the preceding years. Frames became increasingly insubstantial, disappearing on the face in a continuous subtraction of constructive elements. In the cult of less is more, titanium inevitably represented the ideal material with which to give glasses a new identity: sophisticated but unostentatious, with cultured references to the world of design. At the same time, titanium – used in various fields, from jewellery to industrial design, from sport to aerospace, from aviation to surgery – not only offered strength and lightness. Being nickelfree, it also resolved the question

Silhouette Titan Minimal Art 28


focus

29


focus

COMBINING TITANIUM WITH OTHER ELEMENTS, GIVING RISE TO ALLOYS SUCH AS BETA TITANIUM, ENHANCED ITS PROPERTIES, RENDERING IT EXTREMELY FLEXIBLE AND DUCTILE

Lindberg Strip 9500

of the allergies provoked by some metals. Combining it with other elements, giving rise to alloys such as beta titanium, enhanced its properties, rendering it extremely f lexible and ductile. This permitted much reduced, almost invisible, thicknesses of metal that were ideal for importing to eyewear design a fashion for ever more precise lines. It was certainly no coincidence that designer Helmut Lang made his debut in eyewear design at the end of the 90s with a collection in titanium, which was publicised by photographing two models from the front and side, as though for a mug shot, to demonstrate the scant thicknesses of the frames. Once the techniques for working titanium to meet the needs of the eyewear industry had been perfected, extraordinary designs began to appear on the market. Among the first were Lindberg’s Air Titanium (worn by no less than Queen Margrethe II of Denmark and the prince consort) and the Titan Minimal Art by Silhouette, both winners of prestigious international design awards. In 2000, even NASA was won over by the Titan Minimal Art frames, thanks to their extreme lightness (they weigh only 1.8 grams) and safeness (having no screws or hinges) and adopted them to accompany its astronauts on their adventures in space. In 2006 Silhouette even created a special version, the Titan Minimal Art Space Edition. These timeless designs, that over a decade later feel entirely up to date, have helped dictate the success of Silhouette, an Austrian company celebrating its 50th year. If titanium proves invaluable for expressing a particular minimalist vision, its qualities are fundamental when the whims of fashion swing towards metal frames of more generous proportions but do not permit any compromise in comfort, lightness, and extreme thinness. One example is provided by the much sought after glasses of the Atelier Vingt-Deux of Antwerp in Belgium. Availing itself of the expertise of exclusive jewellery makers, IDH Titanium, they produce astonishing effects, such as the precious, dazzling, gold plated titanium. Cut with lasers and even coloured, undergoing treatments that bring out a warm, natural feel at odds with the idea of cold metal, titanium has become an adaptable material that can, in some cases, compete with plastic and acetate. Also highly biocompatible, it adds an intrinsic value to glasses – an invisible, sophisticated, high-tech touch.

Charmant ZT19801

Pilot by Atelier Vingt-Deux

Take Off by Atelier Vingt-Deux 30


titanium

SIMAGIC LHOUETTE: IS IN THE

EYEWEAR by Isabel Pereira

It is considered an intelligent material and bragged for its low weight, high flexibility and wearing comfort. Roland Keplinger, chief-designer, and Rupert Spindelbalker, head of R&D at Silhouette tell us all about their own experience with titanium, its up to date versatility and future innovation

32


IN DETAIL

T

“Pure titanium would not be suitable for the requirements of our design – it would break.”

itanium is not a new material, but it was always the one selected by Silhouette. In which stage of development and innovation is the use of this material by Silhouette? Roland Keplinger and Rupert Spindelbalker: Already at the beginning of the 1990s we were experimenting with different titanium types, even though they fulfi lled our demanding requirements only to a certain extent. Only the discovery of a new flexible, yet stable, titanium alloy by the R&D department and the perfect cooperation between the designers and the production team made, what had seemed up to then, the impossible possible. Silhouette also developed processing methods that permitted consistent material purity and consequently optimum properties. The secret is in the interplay of the material and the processing – only when both of these components are at the highest level, can also the eyewear be at its better level. The advantages of titanium are considered excellent by the aeronautic and aerospace industry and also by the optical industry. Nevertheless, which concerns exist about this material and how does Silhouette overcome them? RK and RS: The challenge of working with titanium in the optical industry is the raw material. There are many different titanium alloys out there which can be used for aeronautic and aerospace and many other fields, but for the production of high quality eyewear the range is extremely limited. Pure titanium would not be suitable for the requirements

“Acetate can be seen as a cheaper alternative, but when it comes to lightness, incomparable wearing comfort, quality and minimalistic design, titanium is the only possible material for metal eyewear.” 33


IN DETAIL

CURRENTLY THERE IS NO COMPARABLE MATERIAL OF SUCH HIGH QUALITY THAT WOULD BE BETTER SUITED FOR OUR DESIGN THAN HIGH-TECH TITANIUM

of our design – it would break. The secret is in the alloy, whose composition is the secret of our outstanding quality. Tests to date on 25 exclusive titanium alloys are the manifestation of what Silhouette understands quality to be. Only one, the so-called beta alloy, proved to be suitable in the end. It is strong, yet very light in weight, is easily processed, is corrosion-resistant and is both nontoxic as well as antiallergenic – and thus, biocompatible.

you are always limited in your creativity. With high-tech titanium the possibilities in minimalistic design are nearly endless. The ratio of strength to elasticity allows for a particularly delicate design without losing stability. Do you think that minimalism is the main optical trend of the future? RK and RS: It doesn't matter where you look, minimalism is everywhere today. At a time when practically anything is technically possible, when “anything goes” is not just an empty catchphrase, lightness and trim structures are no longer a promise, but a reality. Less is more. Too much is encumbering. To be free of excess means more quality of life. Rimless eyewear made of high-tech titanium perfectly follows the logic of minimalism and of being unrestricted. We continue to concentrate in this area, since that is where we are the specialists. It is also the best and most pleasant way of wearing eyewear – at least we think so and more than nine million Titan Minimal Art wearers worldwide have the same opinion.

What is the positioning of titanium in the current optical market compared with other materials such as acetate, for example? RK and RS: Titanium can also be linked to the property of exclusivity – because pure titanium is expensive. That is why the future of this material lies where there is no alternative. In the optical industry acetate can be seen as a cheaper alternative, but when it comes to lightness, incomparable wearing comfort, quality and minimalistic design, which are the key attributes of Silhouette, titanium is the only possible material for metal eyewear. In comparison with nickel silver, which is also used in the eyewear industry, high-tech titanium is around seven times more elastic – the material can tolerate 3,5% elongation (nickel silver only does it up to 0,5 %) without distortion. At the same time, however, it is only half as heavy as nickel silver, which guarantees the utmost in wearing comfort and it is twice as strong, making the eyewear durable and resilient.

In the near future, what can titanium still offer to the optical industry, particularly to Silhouette? RK and RS: Currently there is no comparable material of such high quality that would be better suited for our design than high-tech titanium. Silhouette has therefore invested its energy in the optimization of the manufacturing process to give spectacle wearers the utmost in wearing comfort and the best quality. But of course, we are always doing further research and perhaps someday there will be a material or an alloy that will replace high-tech titanium. Today it is the best for us – we do not doubt that for a moment!

From a designer's point of view, what is titanium's asset? RK and RS: Making a vision become reality calls for passion, patience, perfection and permanent expansion of your own horizons, but without the right materials 34


in detail

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titanium

L I G H T LY BLACKFIN

CHARMANT

Minimalist design and advanced technology

Opera, sophisticated style with a sparkle

BF687 Westcott is a frame in titanium and beta titanium, non-toxic hypoallergenic materials crafted using the most modern techniques available. It is characterised by clear, sculpted lines and a minimalist, squa re-cut design. The temples, in u lt ra-f lex ible beta t ita niu m, are f itted with patented SWOR DFISH temple tips that allow the length to be adjusted in three steps using the “pre-programmed break” system. Furthermore, details such as laser decoration and branding, contrasting colours and nose pads in Greenspec PVC contribute to a unity of technology and style.

The luxury jewellery styles offering first-class elegance is newly introduced to the “Opera” collection in LineArt Charmant. The supple structure which uses flexible Excellence Titan material provides a superior comfort to wearers. The XL2053 is a cool and stylish rimless model, designed with a rectangular lens shape that softly fits to the face and offers a superior wearing feel. The refined Swarovski crystals attractively adorn the temple composed of multiple slender Excellence Titan waves; the front is designed for use with progressive lenses.

charmant.com

blackfin.eu

ESCHENBACH

GÖTTI

Flexibility and technology

Elegant avantgarde from Switzerland

TITANflex has already been impressing for over 25 years with its comfort, minimal weight and maximum stability. With the new TITANf lex col lect ion, Eschenbach is once more u nderlining its pioneering technological role in the field of highly flexible eyewear. The new frames offer the benefits of innovative performance design technology, which enables to create exceptionally lightweight and stylish frames. In 2014, the collection will include, amongst other designs, a model featuring contemporary wood aesthetics.

The Swiss brand presents Parry and Pino. These ultra lightweight and durable glasses are perfect for avantgardists. With its comfortable saddle bridge and the classic shape, these titanium frames are combining elegance with a modernity. The unisex style is a twist on vintage-inspired shapes. Sporty elegance with clearly defined shapes, they are available in black, gold brushed and silver brushed.

gotti.ch

eschenbach.com

36


showcase

STRONG LINDBERG

MODO

Lightweight design

Paper Thin collection, a combination of lightness and flexibility

The Lindberg 7000 Strip semi-rimless frames combine elegantly slender laser-cut titanium plate with a near-invisible nylon thread supporting each lens. This gives an unobtrusive, lightweight design in which the temples deftly continue the line from the front frame. They feature a patented screwless hinge design, along with five different temple designs and an exceptional range of colours.

MODO’s Paper Thin Titanium collection is so light that it’s practically unnoticeable to the wearer. These frames combine incredible lightness, high f lexibility, and eye-catching colors with super-thin grilamid polymer rings. At 6.8 grams and measuring only 0.6 mm in thickness, the beta-titanium frames offer the wearer the highest level of comfort. The collection is made from 6 styles with 6 eye-catching colors.

lindberg.com

modo.com

PORSCHE DESIGN

SAMA

The Sidewall: pure and innovative style

The spectacular combination of metal and plastic

Porsche Design and Rodenstock present the Iconics series, spectacles that are pioneering in their form, function and material. The design of Sidewall is inspired by glacier goggles of former mountain climber icons and is resplendent with a sporty, elegant look. The front is captivating with its wrap-around titanium band and large shapes that stand out from the gold coloured frame elegantly with green lenses. The highlights of the models are the side inserts made of glass that provide extra protection. The Sidewall is available from Porsche Design opticians and selected Porsche Design Stores in a strictly limited edition.

Carolyn is a popular fashion trend model which combines metals and plastic together. For this construction is used the Beta Titanium flat sheet: the combination of Beta alloy with the Pure Titanium creates proper f lexibility, furthermore the extreme lightness enhances incredible comfort. The computer controlled laser cutting is used to ensure exact shapes and eliminate rough edges which can be associated with other flat sheet frame constructions.

samaeyewear.net

rodenstock.com - porsche-design.com

37


shows

&

fairs

How do the main innovations featured in this edition integrate with a strategy aimed at ensuring that Mido continues to be the major trade fair appointment at international level Cirillo Marcolin: Innovation is the key element of this strategy. Revisiting exhibition spaces will begin this year and continue in subsequent editions. Our collaboration with the MiMeC master at the Bocconi University, one of the most prestigious in Italy and the world, and the continuation of initiatives that were inaugurated during the previous editions and were a huge success like, for example, “A Train to Mido”, are all elements that will consolidate Mido’s international leadership and make it increasingly appealing to sector companies and operators. It is an advanced and programmed effort that is rewarding us - as demonstrated by the many new manufacturing companies exhibiting at Mido for the first time this year and have chosen it for making their debut in the eyewear world. Moreover, our collaboration with the Bocconi University gives us an extra edge in appeal for end consumers – something that is new to Mido because it has always been a business-to-business exhibition. The collaboration has led to two important initiatives: #Midounvolto – an event that will involve the city of Milan in entertainment designed for a young target but open to everyone who loves eyewear – and the Bestand award, the aim of which is to reward the most

by Nicoletta Tobia

Cirillo Marcolin, chairman of Mido, explains to 20/20 Europe the most important innovations of this year’s edition

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shows

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fairs

What new developments will be featured at this year’s Out of Mido? CM: The appointment with the best of designer eyewear during the Furniture Show in Milan made its debut last April and has been confirmed for 2014. The most important new development is its location - Showroom 31 inside Opificio 31 in Via Tortona - in the heart of the Fuorisalone area, where established and emerging young designers will be the real stars of the event. The structure will give Out Of Mido an aspect that is more far-reaching and less fair-oriented than it was last year. The other major development is our work on the creation of a second Out of Mido event in June 2014.

attractive, original and communicative booth. How? Visitors can say which stand they prefer via the Mido app and website. There will be only one winner – the booth with the most votes. No selection: we decided that participation in the contest is automatic, because it is intended to encourage all exhibitors – from the biggest to the smallest – to do their very best. The award ceremony will be held in the Fashion District at 6 pm on Sunday, March 2nd. Without a doubt the most interesting part is the prize: the opportunity to choose your exhibition space at Mido 2015. Can you comment on this year’s return of some big companies considering the current economic situation and the effort to adapt the exhibition’s formula to increasingly meet the needs of sector operators? CM: For us it is a huge demonstration of esteem, the recognition of our organization work that does not end with the 3 days of the exhibition, but continues for another 362. It is proof that we are moving in the right direction, bringing Mido increasingly in line with the needs of the sector’s companies. Not only: exhibiting for the first time this year are 120 new companies that have chosen the exhibition as the ideal venue for presenting their collections. This is an additional - and different – confirmation that now more than ever Mido is the reference trade fair for the segment.

What’s the significance of this and the other formulas designed to involve consumers as well? CM: We would like to make our Fair an increasingly all-round event with roots in the territory. Once again, these consumer events allow us to endorse the eyewear accessory as one of the must-haves imposed by the fashion system. Eyewear has rightly become a cult object and we must work at bringing it closer and closer to the general public so that it can appreciate its characteristics and the spirit that lies behind its creation, that is the small and large companies that count on research and experimentation and on the constant study of shapes, colors and materials, which are the experimental training grounds also for big brands. 39


shows

&

fairs

OPTI: THE PERFECT PLATFORM FOR PREMIERES Nearly 500 exhibitors from 34 countries and 24.000 visitors from more than 80 countries attended the show in Munich last January

THE TRADE FAIR WAS HELD FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER IN 1998, SINCE THEN IT HAS SHOWN CONTINUAL GROWTH

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opti the platform for product premieres by international market leaders and start-up companies alike. The trade show was held for the first time ever in 1998, since then opti has shown continual growth. In the four exhibition halls at the fairground Messe München there were presented the latest trend and innovations in the optical industry. A total of about 500 exhibitors showcased their numerous highlights in the technical and design fields. “Claudia Schiffer by Rodenstock” is the name of the collection showed at opti by the Munich-based company Rodenstock, in collaboration with the German top-model. The sunglasses and spectacles are available at selected opticians and retailers all over the world since the beginning of the year. götti showcased new sunglasses: refined colors and designs, mirrored lenses, plastic, metallic or titanium frames are just some of the features of the new collections of the Swiss company. Next year, opti will again be held from Friday to Sunday – from 9th to 11th January 2015 on the fairground Messe München.

he last edition of opti in Munich (10th – 12th January 2014) was a great success. According to Dieter Dohr, chairman of the management board of the GHM Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH, this year’s opti demonstrated how much visitors and exhibitors appreciate the early date as well as Munich as an attractive location with an outstanding infrastructure for the trade show. Approximately 500 exhibitors from 34 countries have presented their new products at opti 2014 and more than 24.000 visitors from more than 80 countries attended the fair. Both domestic and foreign trade visitors appreciate the special atmosphere, the extensive supply, which includes absolutely all sections of the optical spectrum, and the date of the trade show at the beginning of the year. Not least because here they get a full view of the market at the beginning of the year: in fact at the international trade show the exhibitors presented the entire spectrum of optics ranging from frames, ophthalmic lenses, contact lenses and low- vision products to shop set-up, technical equipment and devices. This made, once again, 40


shows

&

fairs

The NY based trade show promotes professional development for students and young professionals and organizes the first global contact lens forum in the U.S.

I

nternational Vision Expo East will have, this year, more than 15.000 attendees and over 550 exhibitors. The fair will be hold at Javits Convention Center in New York, March 26th – 30th 2014, and would be attended by more than 5000 brands. The International Vision Expo & Conference, in partnership with the British Contact Lens Association, will host the first ever Global Contact Lens Forum for eye care practitioners, March 26th -27th, immediately preceding the exhibition. The two-day continuing education forum, the first of its kind in the U.S., will explore all aspects of the business side of a contact lens practice, focusing on the latest scientific content and strategies, including how to use technology in practice and gain and maintain contact lens patients.  Nearly 200 people are expected to register for the event. The forum’s keynote address will be delivered by Lyndon Jones, PhD, a professor at the School of Optometry and Vision Science, Director of the Centre for Contact Lens Research and University Research Chair at the University of Waterloo in Ontario. At the end of January, International Vision Expo East announced also new professional development and peerto-peer networking opportunities designed to inform and empower the next generation of optometry professionals. A key new event for 2014 will be a reception for Vision Expo's Young Professionals Club, a group created for optometrists who have been out of school for five years or less, held on Saturday, March 29 from 8:00 pm-10:00 pm at the Paramount Hotel, and sponsored by Allergan's OPTOMETRY JUMPSTART program. Young Professionals Club members will receive six free hours of continuing education plus other benefits upon joining. Additionally, a new Facebook page is available as a resource for club members to interact and share experiences. While the club is currently only open to ODs, plans to expand to other professional groups are underway.

NEARLY 200 PEOPLE ARE EXPECTED TO REGISTER FOR THE GLOBAL CONTACT LENS FORUM

The Global Contact Lens Forum is part of a multi-year, content exchange agreement between Vision Expo and BCLA designed to improve continuing education offerings at their respective conferences 42


interview

AUGUSTO VALENTINI

LIKE AN ARCHITECT Many years of practical experience in the sector, the ability to unite technical competence with artistic sensitivity, a fruitful partnership of over twenty years with Look The Concept Factory, based on a shared vision and values: designer Augusto Valentini explains what lies behind, and what goes into, every pair of glasses he designs by Nicoletta Tobia

What do you think are the fundamental values of design, in particular, in respect to eyewear? Augusto Valentini: In order to belong to the sphere of “design”, an object must fulfil certain, precise requirements. First of all, the designer has to possess certain qualities, which are intimately linked to one another. Not only must he or she have the correct training and a passion for beautifully made objects, with the needs of the eventual user placed at the heart of every project, a designer also requires the professional skills to be able to interact with modern systems of design and production, not to mention a highly developed artistic sense. You see, the designer is essentially an architect, uniting technical ability and artistic sensitivity. When creating an object, all aspects are developed in parallel. A product has to be beautiful and innovative, but also reliable and functional. In light of these considerations, the word “design” loses its ephemeral meanings and becomes detached from the capricious world of fashion in preference for substance and value. All of this needs to be embodied in the eyewear – I refer in particular to vision correction glasses – if it is to be considered a work of “design” and fulfil its extraordinary potential as a fashion accessory. 44


interview

What characteristics do you try to impart to the glasses that you design? What aspects do you give greatest attention to in your designs and how do they address the needs of the consumer? AV: The frames in the collection that bears the name Augusto Valentini Design are the product of a genuine passion for beautifully crafted objects. This compels me to design every single detail of every model, to search for original concepts and innovative technical solutions, to use the best, hypoallergenic materials and experiment with new ones, to apply processes that make the glasses more comfortable to use and more pleasing to look at. I am constantly working to find harmonious proportions or, at times, dissonances, to find new colours, new combinations… Mine is a niche consumer: mature, not only concerned with the how the product looks, but also the use of materials, traceability and environmental impact, the ethics of labour and processes of production; an attentive user who is immune to the superficial appeal of famous brands, but instead hopes to rediscover value and authenticity. Our glasses offer both of these qualities, being produced in Italy by a company like Look The Concept Factory which has chosen not to move production to more convenient locations and which continues to invest in research and human resources.

THE DESIGNER IS ESSENTIALLY AN ARCHITECT, UNITING TECHNICAL ABILITY AND ARTISTIC SENSITIVITY. WHEN CREATING AN OBJECT, ALL ASPECTS ARE DEVELOPED IN PARALLEL

Where do you get the inspiration for new designs? What is the creative process like? Do you work alone or in a team? AV: Underpinning my creations is the knowledge and research of someone who is specialised in the design of these accessories, whose passion is finding inspiration at important design events, shows, at all sorts of exhibitions, and who is always conscious of the reliability that an optician expects before he recommends a brand to his customers. Every new design in my collection is a new chapter in a story that began many years ago, and is often the evolution of the chapter before. The spark can come from the sensations I experience observing objects that are seemingly very disparate, but which have in common the potential to move me emotionally. It might be an unconscious process which, combined with more tangible elements, gives rise to an idea. At the same time, I constantly engage with the managers of each department. I am very much a collaborator, and before and after the design process I am in constant dialogue with the product, marketing and sales managers. The experience and information they contribute can influence the decisions I make. I talk to opticians to get a better idea of their needs. I talk with my collaborators and I work with the team in every phase from creation to production because careful, human quality control is the best way to avoid errors. But faced with a “blank page”, I work alone. How did your most recent collection come about, and what are the concepts it captures? What are its characteristic forms and materials? AV: One of my most recent collections, which includes the pieces 75245, 75246 and 80035, is called “Northern Lights”. Over the last year I have had a number of visits

Some models from the "Northern Lights" collection 45


interview

to Norway, a country that I associate with the aurora borealis. I noticed that a material we had used at Look for some time, called PA12, when processed in the right way, gives colourful ref lections of an intensity that recalls this fascinating phenomenon. PA12, which requires a certain expertise and complex equipment to work with, has other characteristics that make it ideal for use in making glasses. In fact, it turns out that pieces made with PA12 are light, f lexible, keep their shape and are virtually indestructible, not to mention hypoallergenic. These designs, which are proving very popular, use a thin temple in hypoallergenic steel that is rendered particularly f lexible using a system we have developed ourselves. Once again, technology, imagination, research and analysis of colours and proportions come together to give form to an emotion captured in this small, useful accessory.

I AM CONSTANTLY WORKING TO FIND HARMONIOUS PROPORTIONS OR, AT TIMES, DISSONANCES, TO FIND NEW COLOURS, NEW COMBINATIONS

Augusto Valentini moved to Cadore, at the heart of a centre of international eyewear production, in the 1970s. Since then his world has been inextricably linked with what he defines as an extraordinary, multifaceted accessory. He started up his own company and in just a short time had started designing collections of glasses and sunglasses, which he had made by the town’s artisan workshops and which he sold in person to opticians around the north of Italy. With this experience and with much hard work he was able, gradually, to develop a range of skills relating to the technical issues, as well as the equally fascinating aesthetic considerations, inherent in the design of eyewear. The collaboration with Look The Concept Factory, with which he has enjoyed a mutually rewarding partnership for more than twenty years, was proposed in 1992. “At the time,” says Valentini, “my company Augusto Valentini Occhiali Srl could boast a network of representatives throughout Italy, more than ten years of experience in eyewear design and five years of participation in the Mido exhibition. The collections had earned a certain reputation as a niche product, and were appreciated for their stylistic and innovative technical qualities – you can see that the DNA of the company has not changed. Look The Concept Factory, on the other hand, represented a dependable manufacturer with over a decade of experience in its own right, which was open to innovation and research and keen to add to its successful portfolio a collection whose character was in keeping with the company’s mission, but which had a different sort of look and spirit.”

46


editorial

Eyeglasses WooDone Shirt Burberry London Trousers Paul Smith Tie Paul Smith Accessories Belt Gap

Photography Francesco Bertola Style Giuliano Deidda Hair and Make up Alice Fayre @ MKS-milano Models Lola @ Fashion and Patrik @ 2morrow Photographer’s Assistant Naomi Morello Production Luigi Bruzzone

FRAMINGS 48


framings

Eyewear Jil Sander Dress By Gentucca Bini

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editorial

Spectacles OKO by OKO Vest Hackett London Shirt Gap

50


framings

Glasses Spektre Coat and overalls Longchamp

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editorial

Eyeglasses Invu Jacket Gas Dress Burberry London

52


framings

Eyewear Zilli Crew-neck Burberry London Shirt Caruso

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editorial

Spectacles X-ide Dress Asos

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framings

Glasses Prada Crew-neck Paul Smith Jeans Gas

55


advertorial

TOM REBL EYEWEAR

PRIDE IN INDIVIDUALITY

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and textures are juxtaposed in dualisms of glossy/rough, embossed/smooth, avantgarde/aged. The woods, studs and leather effects which led the sunglasses collection make a loud statement, are carried forward by the optical frames with the addition of new texture and effects that are entirely inedited in the eyewear industry. Designed to last, the forms are timeless and wearable for a variety of face shapes: panthos, wayfarers and rounds, delivering a product of both superior fitting and sophisticated appeal. Completely new, TOM REBL will introduce at MIDO also an inedited series of horn styles. Entirely handcrafted, these horn frames are sure to be exiting style elements. Native of Germany, TOM REBL opened his headquarter on 2008 in Italy, where he produces a lifestyle collection as a couturier, from high-quality materials to superb craftsmanship. Still authentic and on research, TOM REBL has made the brand grow taking it to the international market, where he has numerous fans also from the rock star scene. Working independently and not subject to the market rules, he has naturally become a voice of the new generation. PR E GI ATA , a ne w ly fou nd e d boutique firm based in Padova, is a n eyewea r compa ny wh ich design, produce, distribute and commercia lize sung lasses a nd frames in the high end international market. Unique in the marketplace, PR EGIATA works as a licensee company dedicated exclusively to niche brands, both established and emerging, carefully selected through criteria of avant-garde style, iconic content and international prestige.

OM R EBL , iconic fashion Ma ison f rom t he underground scene, makes a strong statement in the eyewear industry with a unique unisex collection that blends Italian craftsmanship with experimentation, designed for confident outsiders. Premiered at W hite Show Milano last September 2013 with the launch of the sunglasses collection, TOM REBL is now introducing the optical line debuting for the first time at MIDO lab. The ophthalmic collection, developed and distributed by the Italian firm PREGIATA Eyewear and rigorously handmade in Italy, is keeping exploring the “black� which was the concept behind the development of the sunglasses: thru the sole use of black bio-acetate, the new designs make a suggestion of handfinishing and raw textures with a special attention to contrast and details. Far from the mainstream fashion system, TOM R EBL introduces for the first time in the optical ma rket t he pu re combi nat ion of t he fa sh ion w it h t he niche. Meticu lous a r tisa nship a nd extreme wearability, unmistakable i n each piece of TOM R EBL Eyewear, are perfectly mixed with cutting-edge inspirations, poised between pure Italian manufacture and conceptual research. With the cultural contamination as main inspiration behind the collection, the styles emphasizes the rebellion of past and present and blends this with notions of traditions and roots: used looks, i ndust ria l-g rade deta i ls a nd energized contrasts match with t he tradition of craf tsmanship and thoughtful execution. Light 56


TRENDs

by Alessandra Albarello

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Tsumori Chisato, S/S 2014

he temptation to marry fashion to fine art and design has long proved irresistible; one need only think of the abstract outfits of Sonia Delaunay, Fortunato Depero’s futuristic waistcoats of the early 1900s, or even the use in fashion textiles of Lucio Fontana-style slashes. One might wear a piece of art or design to provoke or challenge, but it is also a way of transforming a garment or accessory into a unique, timeless, sophisticated object. It takes us on an intriguing journey to other times and places and makes fashion a less ephemeral phenomenon. Yves Saint Laurent, for example, began a dialogue with the world of art in the 1960s, creating a collection of haut couture inspired by the work of artists such as Braque, Mondrian and Picasso, while sculptor Edward Melcarth designed eccentric spectacles for art collector and patron Peggy Guggenheim. We see, then, that there is a tradition in eyewear design of experimentation and exploration of languages belonging to different contexts. Glasses are better than most accessories at transmitting precise messages in a direct, concise manner. From Pop Art-inspired neon colours to International Klein Blue, and even revisiting true icons like the round glasses of Le Corbusier, the important thing today is to tell a story, turning, even, to poetic visions of distant landscapes. 58


trends

NEW DIRECTIONS To wear a piece of art or design is a way of transforming an accessory into a unique object by Alessandra Albarello

01

02

Anna-Karin Karlsson The Chasing Daisies frame is crossed with a network of lines like neon lights, creating a decidedly “pop” look. It seems that for the Swedish designer, a favourite among celebrities, glasses must not pass unnoticed, and for this summer’s collection the message is opulence and happiness.

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PQ Eyewear designed by Ron Arad Only a designer like Ron Arad could create the range of A-Frame glasses that includes the Woodford model. In the best tradition of design, aesthetics and function are unified in an A-shaped metal component that allows the frame to be adjusted.


trends

03 05 07

04

Theo + Factory900 The Samurai design is the product of a collaboration between Theo and Factory900, a small Japanese eyewear company that uses a unique, semi-artisanal method to create distinctive wraparound frames in acetate.

06

Conservatoire International de Lunettes The famous round glasses of Le Corbusier, one of the fathers of modern architecture, have become part of the collective imagination. With model 510 “Le Corbusier”, the Milanese brand presents a revised version enhanced by a metal bridge. Available in brushed black, aubergine, navy and forest green.

08

Cutler and Gross Inspired by Dutch artist Piet Mondrian’s cubist “compositions” the English company’s 1082 frames are a real, wearable work of art, characterised by intersecting, raised lines that enclose fields of color, as though on a canvas.

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Tsumori Chisato Poetry transforms a pair of sunglasses into a delicate, romantic accessory. A butterf ly shape rendered in pearlescent plastic and decorated with gentle scenes and images inspired by the designer’s home country, Japan.

International Klein Blue Collection by Etnia Barcelona Not all blues are created equal. That is why the artist Yves Klein trademarked the pigment he used for his monochrome works, identifying it by the abbreviation IKB (International Klein Blue). Etnia Barcelona have been authorised by Klein’s heirs to use this special shade of blue for an exclusive range of eyewear.

Kenzo by L’Amy The effect is truly unusual. Put on a pair of KZDPE1401 sunglasses and you find at your earlobes what appears to be a pair of Pearly Planet earrings, the must have accessory of Spring/ Summer 2014, inspired by Kenzo’s necklace for the new season.


NE WS 62


ROLF Spectacles Finest natural eyewear handcrafted in Tirol. Austria

SPEKTRE A perfect mix of elegance and street style

ROLF Spectacles, a small, family run business situated in the heart of the Tyrolean Alps, has been producing handmade, lightweight natural eyeglass frames out of wood, stone and horn since 2009. One of the company goals is to set new trends in design and to implement new ideas. One of those ideas regarding the technical part is the patented ROLF glazing system, which makes it possible to create thin and elegant shapes. ROLF Spectacles wants to take the initiative by achieving new heights in natural eyewear. The manufacturing process of their newest frame resembles a work of art. Love of detail, striving for perfection and the precision in their creation process have been the ingredients for their newest creation - the pureHORN, the first glasses made out of pure horn. Every “paradigm of horn-rimmed glasses” is broken. Like every pair of ROLF Spectacles, the pureHORN is made without metal or other additional materials. pureHORN – pure perfection. ROLF has also extended its main collection. The classic “Espada” model is just one example and captivates with its individual design and its sophisticated, timeless lines. The flamboyant design of the "Espada" frame is based on an Italian classic car of the 70’s, one of the most successful car models at the time. ROLF - a delight to wear.

Sleek, anarchic and glam, Spektre is a brand born in 2009 and based in Milan. Since it's first year it has been a real ascent for the brand, thanks to the perfect mix of elegance & street style. With a wise world wide distribution, covering 42 countries, Spektre has become one of the most wanted and hunted sunglasses brand of the last few years. The brand this year decided to improve its collection, ranging to new materials and frames. Part of the new collection are the respectively "Met-ro" and "Audacia". "Met-ro" stands for Metallo Rotondo (italian for Round Metal), and it design is reminiscent of the Seventies culture. As its name suggests, it has a ultra light metal frame with high quality lens. Its extreme semplicity but at the same time its edginess makes Met-ro the perfect frame for those who want to stand out with class. For him and for her. "Audacia" (italian for bravery) is the "crown jewel" of Spektre's new collection: as it's name suggests, it is a bold but timeless frame. Made out of the fi nest italian acetate Mazzuchelli, with metal nose piece, it has a slight "drop" shape complete with high quality lens. Classy and brave, it is the perfect frames for those who like to dare. Both for men and women.

rolf-spectacles.com

spektresunglasses.com

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ZILLI High-tech expertise for Denis Sunglasses Launched for the Sochi Olympic Games, the Denis sunglasses have a frame made from a combination of titanium and pure carbon fiber, materials that require high-tech expertise. The ground-breaking design has enabled the development of an ultra-light front cast entirely from pure carbon, wrapping round like a mask and suspended from a front titanium bar for comfort. The 100% titanium framework ensures f lexibility and suppleness. The ear pieces are made from a hypoallergenic material and covered in synthetic resin for a soft touch and optimum maintenance and appeal. The infrared lenses, exclusive to ZILLI, benefit from X’TREM eyeRcooler technology, which filters the infrared rays (97.5% to 100%) and blue light (98.5% to 99.5%) responsible for reducing the protective watering of eyes. The lenses offer the only truly effective protection against damaging rays and the sensation of dry eyes. These sunglasses can be worn all year round in the sun but have been designed in particular for maximum efficiency in the mountains. offering total comfort, state-of-the-art technology and an innovative design, ZILLI sunglasses corroborate the luxurious elegance for which Maison Zilli has become known.

GÖTTI Napoli and Noelle: impressive and clearly defined

zilli.fr

gotti.ch

The details are what makes the new titanium series so exciting. Strong in character, is the best way to describe the new NAPOLI and NOELLE titanium models. The shapes are clearly defi ned and the somewhat wider temple lends the sporty style of these glasses that certain chic that one has come to expect from götti Switzerland. The saturated, matte colors are impressive, starting with a mystical violet and ranging to sensational petrol. These models are sure to attract not only admiring looks but also providing high wearing comfort. The temples are armed with black colored rubber endings. These two titanium frames enchant more than just those who love detail. A clear highlight ist the strong matte fi nish and as a little gadget you will discover the "ö" Logo by closed temple only. Strong and charismatic with fi nely tooled details that götti has been known for since the very fi rst collection. The frames are available in violet matte, copper matte, petrol matte, red matte, light rose and black matte.

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INVU by Swiss Eyewear Group A new brand, that puts the customer experience first

OKO BY OKO PARIS New CAC collection: Fashion. Glamour. Unique.

Pronounced “in view”, and spelling out “I Envy You”, this new brand is a 100% Ultra Polarized sunglass line aimed squarely at the impulse retail price point of € 40-65. The INVU brand and product portfolio have been developed with the clear objective of offering an extraordinary customer experience for today’s consumers who demand products that combine up-to-date fashion trends with outstanding product performance at an attractive price point. The new international INVU brand name combines the words “View”, representing the outstanding visual experience of the new ultra polarized lenses, and the word “IN” that stands for the latest designs in eyewear fashion. The combination of the brand name with the “Ultra Polarized” claim and the quality promise of the “by Swiss Eyewear Group” signature merge the concepts of fashion, product performance, and quality into one clear proposition. The 100% ultra-polarized INVU collection offers best-selling styles for both men and women with a range of frame and lens colour combinations that is guaranteed to see product “fly off the shelves”. In addition there is a substantial “trend segment” that manages to retain a strong commercial slant, as well as a proven range of sporty street styles that appeals to the younger target group. All INVU products feature the Ultra Polarized Lens, offering consumers crystal-clear, glare-free vision with improved colour contrasts, less eye fatigue and a better perception of detail.

At OKO by OKO Paris, we've already seen designer optical frames with a pure and elegant design, and so distinctive – signed by the design offices of the brand. But we were not as aware of this fashion and glamour side of the brand who is very proud to unveil this new CAC collection. For her, for him. This collection will delight of course the followers of designer frames which have character and style. Designer, yes, but affordable for all! What are its characteristics? Ultra-thin and ultra-light, this CAC collection creates a surprise and gets unveiled and undressed in two steps: fi rst with the outside frame made of acetate, whose plates are exclusively chosen for the OKO by OKO house – then with the skull of the frame, visible in transparency made of surgical steel with crossing rivets giving it a monobloc character frame. This laminating process has allowed to realize an ultra-thin acetate work and also to use unexpected colors to get a high quality finishing – an ultra-thin result that we could only obtain so far with injected molded frames. The new CAC collection is available in 5 models: CAC12 (for man) in 4 colors – CAC13 (for man) in 4 colors – CAC14 (for woman) in 6 colors – CAC15 (for woman) in 6 colors – CAC16 (for woman) in 4 colors.

invueyewear.com - swisseyeweargroup.com

oko-eyewear.com

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EYE OPENER VIEW fRoM THE us

Ready…Set…MIDO! It seems like just yesterday I was extreme with excitement and getting ready for my fi rst-ever Mido. And although it was fi fteen years ago, put in the perspective of the long and cherished tradition of eyewear in Italy, it WAS virtually yesterday. Being of complete Italian heritage my initial foray into the world of eyewear was brightly illuminated by an awareness that eyewear was virtually “created” by t he Ita lians and my pride was t horoughly enhanced when I started tracing those roots and uncovered the fact that one of the fi rst proponents of the art of vision enhancement was reputed to be a monk named …SPINA (!!!) looking for a way to help his abbey brothers more readily see the elaborate scriptures they were transcribing during the later days of the 15th century. So, with a jolt of personal inspiration, I ventured to my fi rst Mido trade fair, then housed in a scattered (though endlessly fascinating) sprawl of completely unrelated, antiquitist buildings connected by mysterious back doors, tented alleys and labyrinth stairways. The whole experience was incredible. The halls and annexes buzzed with fascinating assortments of eyewear product “vendored” by the most colorful personalities I’d ever experienced in my years as a journalist and the showgoers dealt back even larger wallops of energy and enthusiasm. Shockingly for me, normal consumers huddled by the exits of the show begging for attendee passes in order to get just a glimpse of the specs debuting at the fair. Venues have certainly changed throughout these years but that “Mido” excitement continues to globally fuel the optical arena and even though the very nature of trade shows is changing (for instance our 2020 U.S.A. editor Breanna Benz will be posting on facebook and tweeting LIVE from the show to all of our readers and the millions of consumers who now socialEYEize with 20/20 magazine on the internet) nothing compares to Mido when it comes to getting up close and face-to-face with the players enhancing the faces and vision of eyewear aficionados in our known universe. I honestly feel that eyewear is on the verge of some huge changes in terms of how it is dispensed and the purpose it serves in this world increasingly fi xated on “smart devices” attending us on every second of every day. But there is something that will never change, will always grow and will attest to the quest for perfect vision: Mido.

James J. Spina • VP Editor in Chief 20/20 USA

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70 - INTERVIEW Research is the very soul of our business Elena Orsi Mazzucchelli, Product Development Manager of Mazzucchelli 1849 explained to EL&T the most important technological innovations and the main trends in fashion that the company is presenting this year

74 - CONTINUING EDUCATION The care and feeding of parents, now that their child needs glasses A course supported by an educational grant from PPG INDUSTRIES

82 - INNOVATIONS News & Products An overview on new products, equipment and technology developed from the leading companies of the market: Hoya, Safi lens, Alltechforlabs.com, Rodenstock, Essilor, Mei System


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Mazzucchelli 1849

RESEARCH IS THE VERY SOUL OF OUR BUSINESS Elena Orsi Mazzucchelli, Product Development Manager of Mazzucchelli 1849 explained to L&T the most important technological innovations and the main trends in fashion that the company is presenting this year by Nicoletta Tobia

What are the main technological innovations, at the level of production, that you are presenting this year? What are the most important benefits that they allow you to guarantee your customers? Elena Orsi Mazzucchelli: Ever since the company was founded, 165 years ago, research and innovation have been our primary concern, leading to the continual improvement of products and processes. Serving our customers has always been our principal motivation. Today – thanks to the introduction of a new production technology, adapted from other technologically advanced sectors, and integrated using custom-designed machinery – we have been able to make marked improvements in both production efficiency and delivery times for the product that has proved most critical in these respects: ACETATE SHEETS. The timescales that the market imposes are ever more restrictive, even when the products are increasingly complex. Such technological innovation allows us to keep pace with our customers and their needs.

showing at Mido? Innovation and research have always guided your company’s practices. Take us through the most important innovations of 2013. EOM: Research is the very soul of our business and our driving force. Our most recent innovations remain true to the original commitment with which Mazzuchelli began its long journey: the processing of natural materials and a focus on markets that demand particular attention to innovation and aesthetics. In these years of greater awareness and concern for the environment, and focus on eco-compatible products, Mazzucchelli has developed and patented M49, a form of cellulose acetate, the most common organic compound found in nature. Made from wood or cotton fibres, this original, eco-friendly, thermoplastic material is produced to a new formula containing substances derived from renewable sources. It is 100% recyclable and biodegradable in accordance with ISO 14855. Furthermore, M49 retains all of the aesthetic and performance qualities of traditional acetate, and is free from phthalate esters, so it is compatible with other polymers. A further design innovation is “ART PRINT”, the

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THE TIMESCALES THAT THE MARKET IMPOSES ARE EVER MORE RESTRICTIVE. TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATION ALLOWS US TO KEEP PACE WITH OUR CUSTOMERS AND THEIR NEEDS The range is dominated by white, accompanied by very bright, neutral shades inspired by skin, sand and sepia tones, and by a lilac-tinged sky blue. Dark ruby, steel grey and black temper the neutrality of the range, while passion red gives an occasional note of contrast. THE JUNGLE OF WONDERS. A playful, imaginative, surreal way of reinventing the whole repertoire of tropical, camouflage and animal prints, which come to resemble pieces of naïve art. The range is dominated by greens, from emerald, to turquoise to leaf green. A far more luminous tone is provided by a phosphorescent lemon yellow, punctuated with orchid violet, chilli pepper red, shocking pink and Hawaiian turquoise. PREMIUM QUALITY. Combinations of sought-after, highest quality materials and colours. Classic styles are revived and updated with experimental forms,

process of printing in high definition on acetate sheets. For the first time, eyewear can be personalized with a detailed, colour image in the highest resolution – an extra personalization option to offer to the customer, in order to achieve ever-original effects with which to address the challenges of the market. Your great investment in research and innovation allow you to remain abreast of the most avant-garde tendencies in fashion, and to offer a creative consultancy to your partner companies. What are the main trends you have identified for the coming seasons? EOM: We have identified five main trends: RELAXED NEUTRALS. Last season’s calm, quiet mood is reinterpreted in a new array of ‘conceptual’ neutral colours that stand in antithesis to the physicality of the materials.

Elena Orsi Mazzucchelli, product development manager (left), with the team from Centro O, Mazzucchelli 1849’s centre for design 71


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new juxtapositions of texture and never-before-seen combinations of materials. Tones are reassuringly warm and traditional: from leather to burgundy, sepia to terracotta, asphalt to mahogany. SINGAPORE SPRING. Precious, sensual, oriental glamour married to the natural beauty of f lowers to create a sparkling, fascinating cocktail. The sugary eccentricity of a certain style of Asian street wear, has been inf luenced by the hippy romanticism of the 70s. Colours are artificial and too vibrant to be called pastel: green icing, marshmallow, crocus blue, lemon yellow, venetian pink and mandarin. These warm, creamy, sherbet colours need to be tempered with white and other neutral shades to bring out their sweetness. SOUL TRIP. A journey through the many lands of South America. Passion, tradition and strong colours are woven into the jacquard designs of Peru, the intense greens and blues of the Aztecs and the rainbow stripes of Guatemala. The spicy tones of Mexico glow against periwinkle blue, while sunburst orange and cornmeal yellow illuminate an array of orchid pinks and cyclamen. The palettes are full of energy and brio, spreading good cheer in the playful, joyful spirit of traditional folk culture.

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There are six research and design laboratories in Italy: a chemical laboratory, that conducts research into materials, the technical lab and another four dedicated to the aesthetic development of our products. In China, there are another two product development laboratories, managed and directed from Italy. We have even set up a show room in New York, from which we can also observe and identify signs of future trends. All of the laboratories report to Centro O, Mazzucchelli’s design studio, which is dedicated to creative research based on future trends and fashion concepts and to marketing research. Centro O collaborates with companies and designers all over the world, helping to perfect exclusive designs and providing access to an archive of around 50,000 patterns and colours that it has built up over the years. These frequently provide the spark of inspiration for product designers working at the vanguard of design.

Where are your research and design centres, and how do they work? EOM: The design headquarters are based in Italy. However, in order to remain close to our clients and provide a level of service that better meets our commitment, we have also set up laboratories in Asia that interact daily with the local market and guarantee reduced response times. 72


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THE CARE AND FEEDING OF PARENTS, NOW THAT THEIR CHILD NEEDS GLASSES By Mark Mattison-Shupnick, ABOM and Keith Cross, ABOC

This course is supported by an educational grant from PPG INDUSTRIES

Learning Objectives Upon completion of this program the participant should be able to:

1

Understand the role of the parent as the gatekeeper to children’s eye care

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3

Learn the importance of educating the parent on critical lens attributes for kids

Understand the initial biases and expectations of parents about their children’s eyewear, and the role of the optician in the eyewear buying process

E Mark Mattison-Shupnick, ABOM is director of education for

Jobson Medical Information LLC.

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Learn techniques to present eyewear care and compliance instructions to parents and children

ver wonder who’s more nervous –the child who’s getting their first pair of glasses, or the patient’s parent? It turns out that, when faced with a new eyewear prescription for their child, parents often have concerns that they don’t necessarily know how to express. After all, most consumers know little about eyewear other than there are lots of styles, lenses are a mystery and they’re not sure what they should cost. Add to this apprehension over having to protect such an important investment, and it’s easy to see how overwhelming the situation can become. To better understand the concerns of parents and how they’re being addressed by eyecare professionals (ECPs), PPG Industries commissioned a survey of 500 US adults in March of 2012. The goal of the research was to learn how to better engage with today’s parents to promote a child’s vision as well as understand parent’s expectations. The results of the PPG survey showed that parents do feel that eyecare professionals could play a greater role in two major ways. First, ECPs should educate parents and their children on lens options that provide better solutions for the way that children use their glasses. Second, there is an essential need for children to better understand how to care for their eyewear.

Keith M. Cross, ABOC is director, Rx Technologies, PPG Industries; vice-chairman of The Vision Council Lens Technical Committee and serves on the ANSI Z80.1 and the ANSI Z80.3 committees.

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EYEWEAR ATTRIBUTES PARENTAL OPINION

PARENTS AS GATEKEEPERS

Parents are the gatekeepers to their children’s eyecare, controlling whether children visit an eye doctor and how often. Parental decisions impact how children protect their eyes daily, from injury, glare and ultraviolet radiation. Lastly, parents influence attitudes and can help children create habits that last. Teaching kids to properly care for their eyeglasses will reduce damage and help ensure that the eyewear delivers the vision benefits intended. Healthy habits start young, so proper education of parents—along with children—can influence how well a child sees for a lifetime.

We all know that kids’ eyewear needs are different from those of adults, but parents’ perspectives often influence how well those needs are met. In this and the following sections, we’ll compare the results of the survey and the ways that an ECP can deliver a variety of options and solutions for every child and his/her parent(s). Parents were asked to pick what was most important to them when deciding on a lens material for their child’s eyeglasses. About half felt that a combination of lens attributes (clearest vision, thinness, light weight, impact resistance and UV protection) was the most important. The remaining three attributes were about equally important i.e., 13% said that they would always choose the lens that offers the best vision, while 15% said price was their primary concern and 16% picked impact resistance, protection and durability. (Fig. 1) When asked about the importance of technology, 75% agreed that it is important to them that their child’s eyeglasses are made with the most advanced lens technology, while 86% of respondents said it is important to them that their vision care insurance plan covers the most advanced lens technologies for their child’s eyeglasses. (Fig 2)

1. Parental preferences: a combination of factors important What is most important to you (parents) when deciding on a lens material for your child's eyeglasses?

50%

A combination of attributes: - clearest vision - thinness - light weight - impact resistance - UV protection

16%

Impact resistance, protection and durability

15%

Price

13%

The lens that offers the best vision

2. Parental preferences: want most advanced technology How important is it to you that your child's eyeglasses are made with the most advanced lens technology?

75%

Want the most advanced lens technology

75

How important is it to you that your vision insurance covers the most advanced technology for your child's eyeglasses?

86%

Important for vision insurance to cover most advanced lens technologies


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EYEWEAR ATTRIBUTES PROFESSIONAL OPINION

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of light waves that pass through it. Abbe Value is an indicator of the amount of dispersion or chromatic aberration of a lens material – the higher the Abbe Value, the lower the chromatic aberration and clearer the vision for the wearer (all other factors being equal). Trivex material has an Abbe Value of 43-45 (depending on lens manufacturer). But clear vision does not stop at Abbe Value. Lens designs and anti-ref lective coatings also contribute to clearer, edge-to-edge vision. Combining digitally enhanced lenses with the best AR coatings and high-abbe materials help to provide lenses with minimal distortion, especially in higher prescriptions. No parent would ever want to sacrifice their child’s vision, so this presents an opportunity to discuss the value vs. cost of eyewear, encouraging them to provide best vision with their children’s eyewear. Comfortable – Comfort is a frame and lens combination. Frame bridge design must match the child’s nose bridge shape. For adjustable nose pads, rounded and silicon pads are recommended so that they don’t dig into the skin. For a saddle bridge, the nose pads are splayed more so that they better fit the f latter and wider surface area of the nose bridge, especially for smaller children. Lens comfort is also related to final lens weight, which is a function of refractive index, specific gravity, lens size (frame eye size) and lens processing thickness. Trivex material provides a good balance of these factors with a refractive index of 1.53, a specific gravity of 1.11 g/cm3, and the ability to process Trivex lenses to thin centers. In fact, Trivex material has the lowest specific gravity of all prescription lens materials (Trivex material, 1.11g/ cm3; polycarbonate, 1.21g/cm3). In addition to frame fit and lens weight, photochromics provide the comfort and convenience of adjusting from clear indoors to dark outdoors. Trivex material and polycarbonate are available in Transitions and other photochromic lenses.

At a professional roundtable event, hosted by PPG and partner Hoya Vision Care North America, experienced eye care professionals weighed in on the factors that they believe should be parental considerations. As it relates to frames, they recommend frames that kept their adjustment are well constructed and feature spring hinges. For lenses, they recommend lenses that perform well across a spectrum of features, not simply offering impact resistant lenses and ending the education and recommendation process there. If eye care professionals don’t take the time to explain to the parent about what qualities to look for in frames, lens material and lens design, in their eyes these products are just commodities. Unless ECPs take the time to talk about the difference in the lenses that come out of our practices, all lenses are equal in the parent’s eyes. But, once they understand the importance of children-designed frames and the right lenses parents are empowered to make a decision that is based on more than just price and insurance coverage. To ensure compliance with wearing the eyeglasses, there has to be a balance between parental and child preferences. For example, a parent who chooses a bright red or blue frame should not be surprised when the child does not want or like to wear their glasses. It may simply be the color. But, clearly the decision should not be solely left up to the child either. It is important to engage both parties – the parent and the child – in order to help realize a visual solution that works well. Children will also be reluctant or refuse to wear their glasses if they’re experiencing distortion and/or discomfort. Lenses should be safe, clear and comfortable to wear. Safe – Safety encompasses protection from impact, scratches and ultraviolet radiation. While all lenses are considered as “medical devices” and must meet standards for impact resistance as required by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA 21CFR801.410, commonly referred to as “the drop-ball test”), children require lenses that significantly exceed the FDA standard. For many practices, they have added Trivex material lenses as an alternative to polycarbonate for impact, absorption and clear prescription properties. The roundtable participants pointed out that safety in addition to extreme impact resistance, lenses must be 100% UV absorptive. In addition, lens finishing (i.e., beveling) requires that the lens be held firmly in a child’s frame. If the bevel gets rounded, for example by hand polishing after edging, the ability for the bevel to hold firmly is diminished. As a result, be sure that your lab produces crisp edges for the best lens retention. Clear – Corrected vision delivered with the utmost clarity is always the goal. With children, this is even more critical because during their first 12 years, visual learning accounts for 80 percent of the learning process. Visual clarity of a lens begins with the material’s fundamental ability to effectively align the spectrum

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3. Parental observatory: believe kids understand importance

For parents who aren’t already aware of the important role of vision correction, discuss the link between their children’s wearing their glasses (compliance) and the benefits that are being delivered. While education on eyewear care is a critical part of the discussion for new eyeglass wearers, it has to be done in a positive way in order to resonate with kids and avoid creating more pressure on parents than necessary. Focus on the benefits of wearing, versus dwelling on the negatives. Every child knows a classmate who already wears glasses. In fact, there are always styles and colors that can be acceptable to parent and child so that wearing takes place. For example, if you are working with a child who participates in sports, explain to the child how their glasses will help protect their vision and can improve their performance on the field. Or, if the child is more interested in books and schoolwork, explain how their glasses will help them focus and learn more on all that there is to discover in this world. New information supports the concept of “School Readiness Begins at Birth.” Many parents are already thinking about what they can do to give their child an advantage at birth. If improving a child’s vision is projected to help them in the classroom in the future, parents are more receptive to the discussion even if their child has previously not complained of vision problems. A vision history of the child is a good place to start. Finding out if the child is struggling in school or finding out what they do (hobbies) and then making the connection for the parents defines what you prescribe/recommend. Children are much more accepting of glasses today, almost looking forward to wearing glasses, especially when they see other kids and celebrities with cool sunglasses or trendy looks.

In your opinion, does your child understand the importance of taking proper care of his or her eyeglasses?

78%

Yes!

What do you think?

4. Parental observations: see many bad habits Have you ever noticed your child doing any of the following, or have you ever had any of the following problems with your child's eyeglasses? Choose all that apply.

66% Drop eyeglasses 55% Takes eyeglasses off with one hand 55% Wipes eyeglasses with shirt, tissue, towel, fingers, etc.. 54% Does not use eyeglass case when not wearing them

EYEGLASSES, CARE AND CLEANING For parents who aren’t already aware of the important role of vision correction, discuss the link between their children’s wearing their glasses (compliance) and the benefits that are being delivered. While education on eyewear care is a critical part of the discussion for new eyeglass wearers, it has to be done in a positive way in order to resonate with kids and avoid creating more pressure on parents than necessary. Focus on the benefits of wearing, versus dwelling on the negatives. Every child knows a classmate who already wears glasses. In fact, there are always styles and colors that can be acceptable to parent and child so that wearing takes place. For example, if you are working with a child who participates in sports, explain to the child how their glasses will help protect their vision and can improve their performance on the field. Or, if the child is more interested in books and schoolwork, explain how their glasses will help them focus and learn more on all that there is to discover in this world. New information supports the concept of “School Readiness Begins at Birth.” Many parents are already thinking about what they can do to give their child an advantage at birth. If improving a child’s vision is projected to help them in the classroom in the future, parents are more receptive to the discussion even if their child has previously not complained of vision problems. A vision history of the child is a good place to start. Finding out if the child is struggling in school or finding out what they do (hobbies) and then making the connection for the parents defines what you prescribe/recommend. Children are much more accepting of glasses today, almost looking forward to wearing glasses, especially when they see other kids and celebrities with cool sunglasses or trendy looks.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT - OUTSIDE INFLUENCES ON EYEGLASS RECOMMENDATIONS

Consider all outside sources that may inf luence the choice of eyewear. The combination of information ensures that child/parent preferences are discovered and met. Parents may be reading professional organization websites, like the AOA (aoa.org) or consumer sites, like allaboutvision.org, so they may already have questions or opinions about their child’s vision. A professional’s education and manufacturer data about the latest frame and lens materials for children also adds to the pool of choices. The popularity, for example, of memory metals and the growth of Trivex material as a children’s lens material provides an opportunity to discuss how practice and personal experience ensure that parents will be satisfied. Testimonials from other parents on product satisfaction can also be used to help parents feel confident in the recommendation.

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Common Care Issues Mentioned

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Tips for More Effective Care Add a short lens care discussion as part of the exam process, then re-do it at end of the dispensing process. Ask patients to echo back instructions, adding in humor for kids. In your office, highlight the importance of the doctor speaking directly to kids, especially when they are getting their first pair of glasses. Develop a script that doctors, techs and opticians know for consistency in communications. Use a personalized care bag (like at the dentist) that includes advice, a bottle of spray cleaner, towelettes in individually sealed packets and a schedule for cleaning (e.g., every morning just after brushing their teeth). Encourage children to return with eyewear periodically (for instance, every six months) to check on how well their eyewear is performing. Is it being cared for, and if not does it need to be readjusted? Even if frames don’t need to be readjusted and the eyewear is performing well, a visit such as this may reinforce compliance with care instructions. Be sure to tell patients to come back for frame adjustments whenever needed. A well-adjusted pair of glasses also lasts longer. For new prescriptions, have them come back in about eight weeks to re-adjust the glasses as learning to use them and understanding what’s comfortable, may take a little time.

More than half of the parents surveyed said that their kids dropped, mishandled or improperly cleaned their eyeglasses, or didn’t use a case. Not keeping glasses on, or getting them scratched or dirty, gets in the way of good visual information. If kids can’t see well through their glasses, they think glasses aren’t working. Not using the right case - keeping glasses in a soft case at the bottom of a backpack or no case at all - will place frames out of adjustment and make wearing less comfortable. What’s a parent to do? Unfortunately, only 41% of respondents said they were very satisfied with the amount of education their eyecare professional provided to their child on the proper way to care for their eyeglasses, suggesting that more than half felt their eyecare professionals could have done more. In addition to being taught the proper way to care for eyeglasses, parents should also understand the options available for making lenses more durable, like scratchresistant lenses and AR coatings. Combined, they prevent scratches and dirt build-up.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT - SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

Social responsibility is a major part of all businesses today and can help create a sense of goodwill among patients and the community where you practice. What can you do to reach kids in your communities who may not be receiving the vision care/ wear they need? • Go to parent/teacher meetings and service-club meetings. Help organize and participate in health fairs and screenings. • Spread the word by presenting the information from this course. Add this information to your website and excerpts as Facebook posts from your office’s Facebook page. • Consider participating in programs, like Vision USA and InfantSEE. Conduct in-office seminars for parents, teachers and other health care professionals. • Offer assistance at school screenings, especially for private schools and/or working with sports teams. Vision is a key asset for any athlete.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT - KIDS AND TECHNOLOGY

Kids spend more time on the go and interact with technology at school and during “downtime.” What steps should be taken to protect their vision? Today’s kids are digital natives; they have never known a time when computers, tablets and smartphones weren’t available for communication, games and information. Therefore, they use and access a variety of electronic devices for extended hours. This can result in digital eyestrain, caused by images that are often small and too close. In addition, many of these devices emit higher levels of high-energy, short-wavelength blue light. Consider two new lens technologies when ordering eyewear for the technology-attached child. First, new lenses for digital eyestrain add a small amount of plus power (0.5D to 0.9D) to the lower portion of the lens. The choice of power, determined in concert with the doctor, reduces the demand on accommodation and convergence. Next, convert your premium AR to one that attenuates shortwavelength blue light. These new AR treatments can be added to any lens and reduce the harmful blue light by about 10 percent. Consider these new AR lenses as a replacement for the premium AR now used. These new coatings meet your scratch, cleaning and durability expectations for children’s eyewear.

CONCLUSION To promote children’s eye health, it is essential to engage their parents. Parents are the gatekeepers to their children’s eye care, controlling how often and whether children visit their eye doctor. Providing information to parents on the latest lens options for children – such as Trivex lenses with anti-reflective coatings – and encouraging proper care of their children’s eyewear will create comfort and confidence the buying process. With frames that fit well and remain in adjustment and lenses that are safe, clear and comfortable to wear, the glasses will deliver exactly what the doctor intended. Healthy habits start young, so proper education of parents—and therefore their children—can influence how well a child sees for a lifetime. 80


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Hoya Three new app features to support the opticians

Safilens

HOYA introduces three new app features to support the eye care professional in creating a unique consumer buying experience in-store: visuReal Portable Plus. The new version of Hoya's centration system for iPad recognises the optimal image position and takes a picture automatically. With the ‘image optimising software’ the picture looks even better than before, making it more comfortable for the customer to look at himself. On top of this, automatic diameter calculation and METS (HOYA's thickness optimisation system) are added to simplify and shorten the ordering process. HVC Viewer Sensor. The HVC Viewer (augmented reality) app has been extended with a module to measure both UV and blue light. For this add-on HOYA has developed this measuring device, which can easily be connected to the iPad via the headphone jack. The results are immediately displayed on the screen. This gives customers the chance to see exactly how much they are exposed to harmful UV rays and blue light from LCD screens with and without HOYA lenses. HVC Look. This new app shows each customer what he will look like with his selected frame and his prescription lenses. Each customer can clearly see the benefits of choosing a certain lens design and material index. The ‘online’ mode makes it possible for them to ‘try on’ all the frames available in the shop.

Open 30 Toric, the new monthly silicone hydrogel lens for astigmatics

After the success of Open 30, the silicone hydrogel contact lens based on fusion technology, the company is presenting at Mido 2014 Open 30 Toric, a lens for astigmatics created to develop the market for sufferers from mild astigmatism and to simplify the fitting procedure. Just like Open 30, the new toric lens is made of Filcon V – a high oxygen diffusion bio-silicone hydrogel – and is based on the well-known fusion technology, a patented technology with controlled delivery of hyaluronic acid (HA) and Tamarind Seed Polysaccharide (TSP), two natural tear-film substitutes. These characteristics have been combined with DTD (Dynamic Toric Design) geometry, which guarantees the uniform distribution of lens thicknesses, and the RollBack system, an innovative “stability free” system by means of which the lens is able to position itself correctly and automatically (Autofit). Last, in order to guarantee a regenerated lens every day, Open 30 Toric lenses come with “Open Reload” – a multipurpose solution with a high concentration of Fusion co-polymer that uses a superior quality hyaluronic acid – and “Sonic Wave Generator” which assures that deposits build-up are removed and reloads the lens with HA and TSP during the night.

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An overview on new products, equipment and technology developed from the leading companies of the market

Rodenstock Intelligent sun protection with ColorMatic IQ Sun

Alltechforlabs.com

By expanding the ColorMatic IQ Portfolio with the ColorMatic IQ Sun product range, Rodenstock is now offering a unique, stylish choice of colours for self-tinting sun protection lenses. The lenses have a basic tint of 40% or alternatively 55% and darken to a maximum of 90% depending on the intensity of the sunlight. The range of Contrast and Fashion colours equally appeals to spectacles wearers who are athletically active as well as fashion enthusiasts. Three new Fashion colours were developed: the colours Fashion Brown with a stimulating effect, Fashion Green, with a calming effect, and Fashion Grey, that has a balancing effect. The three Contrast colours are exactly the right thing for the athletically active. Contrast Orange, Contrast Green and Contrast Brown also make it possible to recognise fine details in nature or in road traffic due to the contrast enhancement in the lens. Through intelligent adaptation to all light conditions, glare-free, relaxed vision without fatigue with one-hundred percent protection against UVA and UVB radiation is guaranteed in all colours. The stylish look is completed by the optional Silver Moon mirror coating. The new ColorMatic IQ Sun Portfolio will be available in most of the European countries starting in March 2014.

A new platform for lens manufacturers

Alltechforlabs.com is a web site recently launched. Its conception and its technology are based on the wish to propose to lens manufacturers a platform where they could fi nd information of their interest easily, in different languages and with free access. Alltechforlabs.com proposes three sections for the Lab Professionals: RxPROCESSING, where are presented a list of different advanced equipment and soft ware, from different manufacturers, according to a specific process of the Rx Lens production; ALLTECHstore, which is a modern e-commerce engineered exclusively to purchase easily consumables related to the daily lens production need; LAB2LAB, a brand new service, where Laboratories could advertise products they don't need anymore for their production. These products could be old stock of lenses, used machinery, or even spare parts. Th is service is completely free of charge. ALLTECHFORLABS.com does not require any commission on the deal the Laboratories could conclude between them.

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Mei System

Essilor

EzFit makes lens assembly easy

Mr Blue 2.0 with M Eye Sign, maximising the expertise of the eye care professional

MEI, recognized worldwide for having introduced milling technology in the ophthalmic lens edging process, is one of the main supplier of industrial machinery to leading lens manufacturers and optical chains around the world. The company is back at Mido to present EzFit: a compact machine that brings the same technology to optical stores. The use of MEI machines in remote-edging facilities worldwide demonstrates that milling has been a top-of-theline technology in the ophthalmic lens edging process for some time, and will become even more influential in the years to come. EzFit MEI aims to place this technology at the service of opticians. The acronym evokes the English word “easy”, meaning that the machine is extremely easy to use while offering high quality standards and productivity. In fact, the machine can mill any edge, at different angles, and any frame (nylor, glasant, wraparound, etc.). Moreover, a tool self-gauging system and guided steps make the machine particularly user-friendly even for first-time users. Ezfit, like all MEI industrial machines, stands out for its extreme reliability and practically does away with the need for expensive maintenance. Opticians can have a leading-edge partner at their disposal that guarantees quick delivery of all frames, and even for the special shaping or processing work that is often outsourced to specialized workshops.

Mr Blue, the automated edging system and jewel in the crown of Essilor’s technological solutions since it was launched in 2009, has become, in the intervening years, an indispensable part of many an optician’s setup. To mark this year’s Mido, Essilor is launching a new generation of the now familiar system, Mr Blue 2.0. An optimised, hybrid platform, it allows a greater level of personalisation during the finishing process, thanks to a new micro-etching feature. Opening up new ground in the personalisation of lenses, this exclusive process is able to embellish the lens without detracting from its comfort or clarity, and allows the eye care professional to offer something unique in respect to the rest of the market, and an unmatched level of service to his or her customers. With M’eye Sign the customer can have his or her favourite design etched on the surface of the lens, with an infinite choice of lettering and graphic images. Thanks to an easy to use interface, the customer can choose the desired design directly at the point of sale when choosing the lenses. The etching is carried out directly during the finishing process. These unique instruments will allow opticians to respond to each customer’s needs with an unrivalled level of precision, comfort and efficiency and to maximise their work and the expertise of their staff.

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A TITANIC LIGHTNESS di Alessandra Albarello

Less is more. Nella seconda metà degli anni 80-inizi 90 del 900 fu questa frase a definire un’estetica suggerita da una nuova filosofia di vita. La moda cominciò quindi a guardare soprattutto a Oriente, a una bellezza intrinseca basata sull’essenzialità, sulla purezza e sulla semplicità. Il minimalismo tracciò il percorso ideale per un nuovo linguaggio che si affidava a segni discreti ma riconoscibili e che, in alcuni contesti, richiedeva anche un approccio materico diverso. Come nel campo degli occhiali. Una reazione al massimalismo degli anni 70 e della prima metà degli anni 80, a un eccesso di plastica, ai volumi invadenti. La nuova moda degli occhiali era discreta, guardava alle forme ridotte e scarne di inizio 900 riscoprendo il metallo, un materiale che più di altri, con la sua freddezza neutra, evocava leggerezza, contrapponendola alla ridondanza del periodo precedente. Le montature diventavano sempre più inconsistenti, scomparendo sul volto in una continua sottrazione di elementi costruttivi. 86


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Innanzitutto una curiosità: come nasce il nome Silvian Heach? Mena Marano: Il nome del marchio ha un’origine che potrei definire romantica. Nel 2001 mi trovavo a Berlino con mio marito Giuseppe Ammaturo in un momento davvero importante per la nostra azienda in quanto volevamo trasferire la nostra esperienza nel tessile in un nuovo brand che avesse respiro internazionale. Passeggiando per la città, abbiamo visto su un muro la scritta Silvian, ich liebe dich (Silvian ti amo), per noi è stata un’ispirazione immediata. Abbiamo incaricato un’agenzia di effettuare uno studio di naming e giocando con le assonanze, è nato il brand Silvian Heach.

Nella ricerca del less is more, il titanio non poteva che rappresentare il materiale ideale per esprimere una nuova identità degli occhiali, sofisticata ma meno appariscente e con riferimenti colti al design. D’altra parte il titanio, impiegato in diversi contesti - dalla gioielleria al design, dallo sport all’industria aerospaziale, dall’aeronautica alla chirurgia - non solo offriva resistenza e leggerezza, ma essendo anche nickel-free, risolveva il problema delle allergie provocate da alcuni metalli. Le combinazioni con altri elementi che davano vita a leghe come il beta-titanio, potenziavano poi le sue performance e lo rendevano estremamente f lessibile e duttile, permettendo così di ottenere spessori minimi, quasi invisibili, ideali per trasferire negli occhiali un discorso moda sempre più orientato verso linee precise. Non fu certo un caso che l’esordio dello stilista Helmut Lang negli occhiali, alla fine degli anni 90, fu proprio con una collezione in titanio, pubblicizzata da due modelli fotografati di fronte e di profilo come nelle foto segnaletiche, per evidenziare lo spessore esiguo delle montature. Una volta perfezionate le tecniche di lavorazione del titanio per riuscire ad assecondare le esigenze dell’occhialeria, apparvero quindi sul mercato modelli straordinari. Tra i primi gli Air Titanium di Lindberg (indossati anche dalla regina Margrethe II di Danimarca e dal principe consorte) e i Titan Minimal Art di Silhouette, entrambi vincitori di prestigiosi premi internazionali di design. Per la loro estrema leggerezza (pesano solo 1,8 grammi) e sicurezza (sono privi di viti e cerniere) i Titan Minimal Art convinsero perfino la NASA, nel 2000, ad adottarli per i suoi astronauti, accompagnandoli nelle avventure spaziali. Tant’è che nel 2006 fu realizzata perfino una versione speciale, la Titan Minimal Art Space Edition. Modelli senza tempo che ancor oggi, a distanza di oltre un decennio, sono ancora attualissimi e hanno contribuito a decretare il successo di Silhouette, azienda austriaca che quest’anno compie 50 anni. Se il titanio è indispensabile per esprimere un certo concetto minimalista, le sue qualità sono fondamentali quando la volubilità della moda si indirizza verso occhiali in metallo dai volumi più importanti, pretendendo però sempre comfort e leggerezza, oltre a spessori ridottissimi. Un esempio sono i ricercati occhiali di Atelier Vingt-Deux di Anversa in Belgio, che si avvale del know-how di IDH Titanium (creatrice di gioielli esclusivi), per stupire con effetti speciali, come il prezioso titanio “gold plated” illuminato da bagliori dorati. Tagliato al laser e anche colorato, sottoposto a trattamenti che ne esaltano un touch naturale e caldo, in contrasto con l’idea della freddezza del metallo, il titanio è diventato un materiale eclettico che può, in alcuni casi, competere con la plastica e l’acetato. Essendo poi altamente biocompatibile, aggiunge un valore intrinseco agli occhiali, un tocco high-tech sofisticato e invisibile.

La vostra linea di abbigliamento si rivolge a un target femminile giovane e particolarmente attento alle tendenze moda. Quali sono gli elementi caratterizzanti del vostro stile e come li avete trasferiti in una linea di occhiali? MM: Il nostro primo obiettivo da sempre è stato quello di realizzare capi alla portata di tutti in grado di esprimere personalità in ogni momento della giornata. Allo stesso modo abbiamo voluto realizzare una collezione eyewear che mantenesse queste caratteristiche: modelli da sole e da vista “easy to wear”, caratterizzati da uno stile minimalista e da una gamma cromatica particolarmente attenta alle tendenze moda. Ci può parlare della prima collezione di occhiali che presentate a Mido? MM: Il nostro debutto nel settore eyewear si realizzerà con una collezione affidata alla creatività ed esperienza del designer Paolo Seminara, composta da 19 modelli da vista e 9 modelli da sole proposti ognuno in una gamma di cinque varianti colore. Materiale d’elezione dei nostri modelli è l’acetato declinato sia nella variante trasparente sia stampato. Le forme che abbiamo prediletto sono eleganti e minimal: dai frontali ampi dal gusto retrò, fino a quelli più squadrati di ispirazione contemporanea, abbiamo ideato una collezione indossabile in ogni occasione.

THE FIRST TIME FOR

SILVIAN HEACH di Alessandra Albarello Un esordio colorato, giovane e allo stesso tempo sofisticato per la collezione di occhiali da sole e da vista Silvian Heach, un brand di abbigliamento nato nel 2002 dall’intuizione imprenditoriale di Mena Marano e di Giuseppe Ammaturo, rispettivamente ad e presidente di Arav Fashion SpA. Un progetto di vita che si è trasformato nel tempo in marchi di successo, distribuiti anche attraverso una rete di punti vendita monomarca. Gli occhiali Silvian Heach rif lettono appieno le ispirazioni e i colori di Ageless, la nuova collezione P/E 2014 che si sviluppa attorno ai due temi principali Real e Fresh, proponendo degli outfit disinvolti, adatti a tutti i momenti della giornata, per donne vere e piene di energia. Gli occhiali completano questo look con forme semplici ma decise, declinate in cromatismi che giocano con le trasparenze ma anche con mix di colori primari che rimandano ai tessuti e alle fantasie della collezione. Mena Marano ci racconta lo spirito di questa nuova avventura. 87


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Qual è il modello di occhiali più rappresentativo della vostra collezione? MM: Indubbiamente tutti i modelli legati alle fantasie e alle sfumature più iconiche della nuova collezione SS14, tinte sgargianti e luminose, mix di cromie f luo in linea con gli style mood della prossima stagione. Come mai avete deciso di proporre anche una linea di occhiali e qual è attualmente, secondo lei, il ruolo di questo accessorio moda? MM: Questo progetto nasce dall’esigenza di ampliare e completare il lifestyle del brand Silvian Heach. Siamo convinti che l’occhiale costituisca a tutti gli effetti un complemento moda immancabile in un total look. L’evoluzione che questo item ha avuto negli anni è infatti sorprendente e affascinante se si pensa che fino a non molto tempo fa, era semplicemente considerato un medical device e oggigiorno invece è il protagonista di collezioni e tendenze sia nella variante sole, sia in quella vista. Quando e dove verranno commercializzati i vostri occhiali e quali saranno i prezzi al pubblico che avete stabilito? Eventuali previsioni di vendita? MM: La sfida maggiore nasce dalla decisione di entrare in un segmento distributivo, quello degli ottici, per noi completamente nuovo. Il progetto, interamente curato all’interno dell’Azienda, prevede nel nostro Paese una distribuzione capillare nel canale wholesale specializzato degli ottici/optometristi. Per raggiungere questo obiettivo distributivo ARAV ha investito nella creazione di una rete vendita dedicata. Il prezzo indicativo con cui saranno distribuite sia le montature da vista sia gli occhiali da sole sarà di 80/130 euro.

Il titanio non è un materiale nuovo. Silhouette lo utilizza da sempre. In quale fase di sviluppo e innovazione si trova attualmente l’uso di questo materiale da parte di Silhouette? Roland Keplinger e Rupert Spindelbalker: Abbiamo iniziato a sperimentare diversi tipi di titanio già all’inizio degli anni Novanta, ma i risultati erano solo in parte all’altezza delle nostre elevate esigenze. Finché la scoperta, da parte della divisione di ricerca e sviluppo, di una nuova lega di titanio flessibile e al tempo stesso stabile e la collaborazione perfetta tra i progettisti e il team di produzione hanno reso possibile quello che fino a quel momento era sembrato impossibile. Silhouette ha anche sviluppato dei metodi di lavorazione che hanno permesso di ottenere livelli costanti di purezza e, di conseguenza, caratteristiche ottimali. Il segreto è nell’interazione tra materiale e lavorazione: soltanto quando entrambe le componenti sono al massimo livello è possibile creare occhiali perfetti. Il titanio offre vantaggi eccellenti al settore aeronautico e aerospaziale e anche all’industria dell’ottica. Quali sono gli aspetti negativi di questo materiale e cosa fa Silhouette per superarli? RK e RS: Per il titanio usato nell’industria ottica, la difficoltà sta nella materia prima. Esistono numerose leghe di titanio che possono essere utilizzate in tanti campi, tra cui quello aeronautico e aerospaziale, ma per la produzione di occhiali di qualità la scelta è piuttosto limitata. Il titanio puro non si adatta ai requisiti della nostra progettazione perché si romperebbe. La soluzione è la lega, la cui composizione è il segreto della nostra eccezionale qualità. I test condotti finora su 25 leghe esclusive di titanio sono la dimostrazione di cosa vuol dire qualità per Silhouette. Alla fine soltanto una di queste, la cosiddetta lega beta, si è dimostrata valida: è solida ma anche molto leggera, facile da lavorare, resistente alla corrosione, atossica e anallergica, e quindi biocompatibile. Nell’attuale mercato dell’ottica, come si colloca il titanio rispetto ad altri materiali come, ad esempio, l’acetato? RK e RS: Il titanio è legato anche al concetto di esclusività, perché in forma pura è molto costoso. Ciò significa che questo materiale è usato soltanto quando non esistono altre possibilità. Nell’industria ottica, l’acetato è considerato un’alternativa più economica ma in termini di leggerezza, comfort, qualità e minimalismo del design, che sono i tratti distintivi di Silhouette, il titanio è l’unico materiale possibile per gli occhiali in metallo. Rispetto all’alpacca, altra lega usata nell’industria ottica, il titanio high-tech è circa sette volte più elastico (sopporta un allungamento del 3,5% senza riportare distorsioni, contro lo 0,5 % dell’alpacca), pesa la metà, il che garantisce il massimo comfort, ed è due volte più resistente, permettendo di realizzare prodotti resilienti e di lunga durata.

di Isabel Pereira

È ritenuto un materiale intelligente, apprezzato per la leggerezza, l’elevata flessibilità e il comfort. Roland Keplinger e Rupert Spindelbalker, rispettivamente head of Design e direttore Ricerca e Sviluppo di Silhouette, ci parlano della propria esperienza con il titanio, della sua versatilità attuale e di innovazione futura

Da un punto di vista del design, qual è il pregio del titanio? RK e RS: Per trasformare un’idea in realtà ci vuole passione, pazienza, perfezione e la capacità di ampliare costantemente i 88


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propri orizzonti, ma se non si hanno i materiali giusti la creatività resta sempre limitata. Con il titanio high-tech le possibilità di progettazione minimalista sono praticamente infinite. Il rapporto tra resistenza ed elasticità permette di realizzare modelli particolarmente delicati senza rinunciare alla stabilità. Il minimalismo sarà la tendenza principale degli occhiali del futuro? RK e RS: Oggi il minimalismo è dappertutto, ovunque si guardi. In un’epoca in cui ogni cosa è tecnicamente possibile e in cui “tutto è permesso” non è soltanto una frase a effetto, la leggerezza e l’essenzialità non sono più una promessa ma una realtà. “Less is more”, il troppo ingombra. Libertà dagli eccessi vuol dire maggiore qualità della vita. Gli occhiali senza montatura in titanio high-tech applicano alla perfezione la logica del minimalismo e dell’assenza di limitazioni. Continuiamo a concentrarci in quest’area perché è qui che siamo specialisti. È anche il modo migliore e più piacevole di portare gli occhiali. E a pensarlo non siamo solo noi, ma più di nove milioni di persone che hanno scelto Titan Minimal Art in tutto il mondo!

di Nicoletta Tobia

Una grande esperienza nel settore maturata negli anni, la capacità di riunire in sé competenze tecniche e sensibilità artistica, un proficuo sodalizio più che ventennale con Look The Concept Factory basato su una comunanza di valori e di visione: il designer Augusto Valentini racconta cosa c’è dentro, e dietro, ogni occhiale che progetta

Nel prossimo futuro, il titanio cosa potrà offrire ancora al settore dell’ottica e a Silhouette in particolare? RK e RS: Attualmente non esistono materiali paragonabili al titanio high-tech in termini di qualità che possano andare bene per il nostro design. Perciò Silhouette ha investito tutte le sue energie nell’ottimizzazione del processo di produzione per offrire il massimo del comfort e la migliore qualità. Questo non vuol dire abbandonare la ricerca. Chissà, un giorno troveremo un materiale o una lega in grado di sostituire il titanio high-tech. Oggi questo è il meglio per noi, su questo non c’è dubbio!

SE NON SI HANNO I MATERIALI GIUSTI LA CREATIVITÀ RESTA LIMITATA. CON IL TITANIO HIGH-TECH LE POSSIBILITÀ DI PROGETTAZIONE MINIMALISTA SONO PRATICAMENTE INFINITE

Quali sono per lei i valori fondamentali del design, in particolare applicato all'oggetto occhiale? Augusto Valentini: Perché un oggetto possa di diritto appartenere al mondo del design, deve rispondere a caratteristiche ben precise. In primo luogo il progettista deve possedere alcuni requisiti intimamente legati fra loro. Non solo la cultura e l’amore per le cose fatte a regola d’arte, che pone al centro di tutti i progetti le esigenze dell’utilizzatore, ma anche la professionalità per poter dialogare con i moderni sistemi di progettazione e produzione e una spiccata sensibilità artistica. Ecco, in fondo il designer è un architetto, unisce in sé abilità tecniche e sensibilità artistica e crea un oggetto che si sviluppa in parallelo sotto tutti gli aspetti. Un prodotto deve essere bello e innovativo ma anche affidabile, funzionale. 90


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Alla luce di queste considerazioni la parola design perde ogni significato effimero, prende le distanze dal mondo capriccioso delle mode per prediligere contenuti e valori. Tutto ciò deve essere trasferito sull’occhiale, in particolare mi riferisco a quello da vista, perché possa essere definito “di design” e diventi uno straordinario accessorio. Che caratteristiche cerca di dare agli occhiali che progetta? A quali aspetti sono attente le sue creazioni e a quali esigenze del consumatore rispondono? AV: Le montature della collezione che porta il mio nome, la Augusto Valentini Design, sono frutto di autentica passione per gli oggetti fatti a regola d’arte, che mi porta a disegnare ogni singolo dettaglio di ogni modello, a ricercare soluzioni tecniche e concept inediti, a utilizzare i migliori materiali, anallergici, e a sperimentarne di nuovi, ad applicare lavorazioni volte a rendere più confortevole l’utilizzo dell’occhiale e più gradevole il suo stile, a cercare l’armonia delle proporzioni o di certe volute dissonanze, colori e abbinamenti nuovi... Chi sceglie il mio prodotto è un consumatore anch'esso "di nicchia" e maturo, interessato non solo all'estetica, ma anche all'utilizzo dei materiali, alla tracciabilità e all'impatto ambientale, all’etica nella produzione e nella lavorazione. Un utilizzatore attento che non è sensibile al semplice richiamo del marchio famoso ma cerca ancora una volta valore e autenticità. E autentici e di valore sono i nostri occhiali, costruiti in Italia da un’azienda come Look The Concept Factory, che ha fatto la scelta di non delocalizzare la produzione in luoghi più convenienti e investe continuamente in ricerca e risorse umane.

di Nicoletta Tobia

Cirillo Marcolin, presidente di Mido, spiega a 20/20 Europe le innovazioni più importanti che caratterizzano l’edizione di quest’anno della manifestazione

Da dove trae ispirazione quando progetta i suoi nuovi modelli? E come si svolge il suo processo creativo, da solo o in team? AV: Dietro alle mie creazioni c’è lo studio di una persona specializzata nella progettazione di questo accessorio, che per passione trae ispirazione dai principali eventi di design, fiere, mostre di ogni genere, e che tiene conto delle esigenze di affidabilità che ogni ottico richiede alla marca che sceglie di proporre alla propria clientela. Ogni nuovo modello della mia collezione è un capitolo nuovo di un racconto iniziato molti anni fa, ed è spesso l’evoluzione di quello precedente. La scintilla può scoccare come conseguenza di diverse sensazioni provate osservando gli oggetti più disparati, ma che hanno in comune la capacità di emozionarmi. Questo può essere un processo inconscio, che unito a elementi concreti dà corpo a un’idea. Contemporaneamente ha luogo un continuo confronto con i responsabili di vari settori. Sono una persona molto collaborativa, prima e dopo dialogo costantemente con i responsabili di prodotto, il marketing e le vendite, che con la loro esperienza e le loro informazioni possono concorrere a orientare le mie scelte, ascolto gli ottici per comprendere le loro esigenze, parlo con i collaboratori, seguo in team ogni fase dalla creazione alla produzione, perché con il controllo umano l’errore può essere evitato. Ma quando sono davanti al “foglio bianco”, lavoro da solo.

Come si inseriscono le principali innovazioni che caratterizzano questa edizione di Mido nella strategia che ha come obiettivo il fare in modo che la manifestazione continui a proporsi come l'appuntamento fieristico leader di settore a livello internazionale? Cirillo Marcolin: L’innovazione è l’elemento fondamentale di questa strategia. La rivisitazione degli spazi espositivi che inizia quest’anno, ma che evolverà maggiormente nelle prossime edizioni, la collaborazione con il master MIMEC dell’Università Bocconi, tra le realtà universitarie più prestigiose in Italia e nel mondo, il proseguimento di iniziative inaugurate nelle passate edizioni e di grande successo, come per esempio "Un treno per Mido", sono tutti elementi atti a consolidare la leadership di Mido a livello internazionale, rendendolo sempre più appetibile per le aziende e per gli operatori del settore. Uno sforzo evolutivo e programmatico che ci sta premiando, come dimostrano le tante nuove realtà produttive che quest’anno per la prima volta esporranno a Mido e che quindi ci hanno scelto come piazza per far il loro debutto nel mondo dell’eyewear. Inoltre la collaborazione con l’Università Bocconi ci regala anche una marcia in più: un appeal verso il consumatore finale che Mido non aveva mai evidenziato in passato, in quanto fiera business to business. Da questa collaborazione hanno preso vita due importanti iniziative: #Midounvolto - un evento destinato a coinvolgere la città di

Come è nata la sua ultima collezione e quale concept racchiude? Che forme e che materiali la caratterizzano? AV: Una delle mie ultime collezioni, di cui fanno parte i modelli 75245, 75246 e 80035, prende il nome di “Northern Lights”. Durante lo scorso anno mi sono recato più volte in Norvegia, paese che mi riporta alla mente l’aurora boreale, e ho notato che un materiale che utilizziamo in Look da molto tempo, il PA12, se opportunamente lavorato dà riflessi colorati più o meno intensi che ricordano proprio questo affascinante fenomeno luminoso. Il PA12, la cui lavorazione richiede l’acquisizione di un particolare know how e di tecnologie e macchine complesse, possiede caratteristiche che lo rendono interessante anche per l’impiego nell’occhialeria. Infatti i modelli in PA12 risultano leggeri, flessibili, indeformabili, praticamente indistruttibili oltre che anallergici. Questi modelli, che stanno riscontrando un grande successo, montano un’astina sottile in acciaio anallergico molto flessibile anche grazie a un sistema flex di nostra ideazione. Ancora una volta la tecnologia, la fantasia, la ricerca e lo studio dei colori e delle proporzioni si uniscono per dar vita a un’emozione racchiusa in questo piccolo, utile accessorio.

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Milano, all’insegna del divertimento, pensato per un target giovane, ma aperto a tutti coloro che amano gli occhiali – e il premio Bestand. L’obiettivo del premio è quello di dare un riconoscimento a chi riuscirà ad allestire lo stand più attrattivo, originale e comunicativo. Come? Ciascun visitatore, tramite MidoApp e sito mobile, avrà la possibilità di esprimere la propria preferenza. La gara prevede un unico vincitore finale, lo stand che avrà ottenuto in assoluto il maggior numero di voti. No nessuna selezione: per nostra scelta la partecipazione al concorso è automatica, proprio perché l’intento è quello di stimolare tutte le realtà espositive – dalla più grande alla più piccola – a dare il meglio di sé. La cerimonia di premiazione avrà luogo domenica 2 marzo alle ore 18 all’interno del Fashion District. E la cosa più interessante è indubbiamente il premio: la possibilità di scegliere il proprio spazio espositivo a Mido 2015.

Mazzucchelli 1849

RESEARCH IS THE VERY SOUL OF OUR BUSINESS

Può commentare il ritorno quest’anno di alcune grandi aziende, alla luce dell’attuale congiuntura ma anche degli sforzi messi in atto per rendere la fiera sempre più capace di adeguare la propria formula alle esigenze degli operatori del settore? CM: É per noi un grande attestato di stima, un riconoscimento al nostro lavoro organizzativo che non si esaurisce nei tre giorni di fiera, ma che continua per tutti gli altri 362. É la prova che ci stiamo muovendo nella direzione giusta, rendendo Mido sempre più in linea con le esigenze delle aziende del settore. Non solo: quest’anno esporranno per la prima volta a Mido 120 nuove aziende che ci hanno scelto come piazza ideale per presentare le loro collezioni. Questa è un’ulteriore - e diversa - conferma che Mido è oggi sempre di più la fiera di riferimento per il comparto.

di Nicoletta Tobia

Elena Orsi Mazzucchelli, responsabile dello sviluppo prodotto di Mazzucchelli 1849 spiega a EL&T le principali innovazioni tecnologiche e i trend moda più significativi che l’azienda presenta quest’anno

Quali novità caratterizzeranno quest’anno l’Out of Mido? CM: Dopo il debutto dello scorso aprile, viene confermato per il 2014 l’appuntamento con il meglio del design eyewear durante il Salone del Mobile di Milano. La grande novità è la nuova location, lo Showroom 31 all'interno dell'Opificio 31 in via Tortona, nel cuore del Fuorisalone, dove designer affermati e giovani emergenti saranno i veri protagonisti dell’evento. Una struttura che permette di dare ad Out of Mido un respiro molto più ampio e meno fieristico rispetto allo scorso anno. L’altra grande novità è che stiamo lavorando per creare un secondo evento targato Out of Mido a giugno 2014. Qual è la valenza di questa e delle altre formule studiate per coinvolgere anche il pubblico consumer? CM: È quella di trasformare la nostra Fiera sempre più in un evento a 360 gradi radicato nel territorio. Questi eventi consumer ci permettono una volta di più di accreditare l’accessorio occhiale tra i must have imposti dal fashion system. L’occhiale è entrato di diritto tra gli oggetti cult, noi dobbiamo lavorare per avvicinarlo sempre di più al grande pubblico, per farne apprezzare le sue caratteristiche e l’essenza che sta dietro la loro produzione, fatta di piccole e grandi aziende che scommettono sulla ricerca e sulla sperimentazione, sullo studio continuo di forme, colori e materiali, che sono palestra di sperimentazione anche per i grandi brand.

Quali sono le principali innovazioni tecnologiche, a livello di processo produttivo, che presentate quest’anno? Quali sono i benefici più significativi che vi consentiranno di garantire ai vostri clienti? Elena Orsi Mazzucchelli: Da quando è stata fondata, 165 anni fa, l’azienda ha sempre avuto come obiettivo la ricerca e l’innovazione, portando continue migliorie ai prodotti e ai processi ed è sempre stata animata da uno spirito di servizio al cliente. Oggi, grazie all’introduzione di una nuova tecnologia produttiva, mutuata da altri settori tecnologicamente avanzati, e integrata da macchinari progettati ad hoc per la nostra produzione, siamo riusciti a migliorare in modo più che incrementale la nostra efficienza produttiva e a ridurre notevolmente tempi di consegna del nostro prodotto più critico sotto questo aspetto: il BLOCCO.

L’OCCHIALE È ENTRATO DI DIRITTO TRA GLI OGGETTI CULT, NOI DOBBIAMO LAVORARE PER AVVICINARLO SEMPRE DI PIÙ AL GRANDE PUBBLICO

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Il mercato impone tempi sempre più ristretti anche per prodotti sempre più complessi: questa innovazione tecnologica ci permette di allinearci sempre al cliente e rispondere adeguatamente a tali ritmi. 

La gamma è dominata dai verdi, dal bandiera al turchese al foglia. L’atmosfera è resa iperluminosa da un giallo limone fosforescente, ritmata da un viola orchidea, un rosso peperone, un rosa shocking e dal turchese hawaiano. PREMIUM QUALITY. Combinazioni di colori e di materiali ricercati, di grande qualità. Si rivalorizzano i grandi classici, attualizzati da tagli sperimentali, da nuovi rapporti nelle texture e da inedite associazioni di materiali. I toni sono quelli caldi e rassicuranti della tradizione, dal cuoio al bordeaux, dal seppia al terracotta, dall’asfalto al mogano. SINGAPORE SPRING. Il glamour orientale, prezioso e sensuale, si fonde con la bellezza naturale dei fiori, creando un cocktail frizzante e inebriante. Il romanticismo hippy degli anni '70 influenza l'eccentricità zuccherina di un certo street wear asiatico. I colori sono artificiali e troppo intensi per essere definiti pastello, prendono tonalità verde glassa di zucchero, malva, azzurro crocus, giallo limone, rosa veneziano e mandarino. Questi colori, tipici dei sorbetti, con una pastosità cremosa, hanno bisogno del bianco e di altri neutri chiarissimi per stemperarsi e rivelare la loro dolcezza. SOUL TRIP. Un viaggio nei vari paesi del Sud America. Colori forti, passione e tradizione si intrecciano nei disegni jacquard del Perù, nei verdi e nei blu intensi degli Atzechi, nelle righe arcobaleno del Guatemala. I toni speziati del Mexico sono esaltati da un blu pervinca mentre le gamme del viola orchidea e del ciclamino sono quasi sempre illuminate dall’arancio solare e dal giallo mais. Le scale cromatiche sono briose ed energetiche e inducono all’allegria nello spirito gioioso e giocoso del folk tradizionale.

Sul fronte dei materiali, quali sono i prodotti su cui puntate maggiormente, e quali sono le principali novità che proporrete a Mido? L’innovazione e la ricerca guidano da sempre la vostra prassi aziendale. Può ricordarci quali sono le novità più importanti che hanno caratterizzato il 2013? EOM: La ricerca è l’anima e il motore stesso della nostra attività. Le ultime novità del lungo percorso imprenditoriale di Mazzucchelli restano fedeli al suo primo impegno: la lavorazione di materiali naturali e l’attenzione a mercati che richiedono una particolare sensibilità a fattori innovativi ed estetici. In un periodo di maggiore consapevolezza e sensibilità per la natura e attenzione per i prodotti eco-compatibili la Mazzucchelli ha sviluppato e brevettato M49, un acetato di cellulosa, ossia il composto organico più diffuso in natura, prodotto da fibre di legno o di cotone, realizzato con una nuova formulazione contenente sostanze derivate da fonti rinnovabili. Questo nuovo materiale termoplastico ed ecologico è al 100% riciclabile e biodegradabile secondo la normativa ISO 14855. Inoltre, M49 mantiene tutte le caratteristiche estetiche e di performance dell’acetato tradizionale, è privo di esteri ftalici ed è quindi compatibile con gli altri polimeri. Un’ulteriore innovazione, per quanto riguarda invece il design, è “ART PRINT” il processo di stampa su fogli di acetato ad alta definizione. Per la prima volta, l’occhiale può essere personalizzato con un'immagine molto dettagliata e colorata o con immagine alla massima risoluzione. Una possibilità in più offerta al cliente di personalizzare i prodotti, per affrontare le sfide del mercato con effetti sempre nuovi.

Dove sono situati i vostri centri ricerca e stile, e come operano? EOM: L’head-quarter della ricerca è localizzato in Italia. Per essere però sempre vicini al cliente e seguire la nostra vocazione al servizio, abbiamo creato anche in Asia dei laboratori che interagiscono quotidianamente con il mercato locale e garantiscono un’immediatezza di risposta. In Italia ci sono sei laboratori ricerca e stile: il laboratorio chimico, che si occupa di ricerca sui materiali, quello tecnologico e quattro dedicati allo sviluppo estetico dei prodotti. In Cina ci sono altri due Laboratori per lo Sviluppo del Prodotto, gestiti e diretti dall’Italia. A New York Mazzucchelli ha anche creato da tempo uno Show Room che funge al tempo stesso da osservatorio per cogliere i segnali anticipatori delle tendenze. Tutti i laboratori rispondono al Centro O, l’Ufficio Stile di Mazzucchelli dedicato alla ricerca creativa basata su concetti di tendenza e di moda futura e alle ricerche di Marketing. Il Centro O collabora con società e stilisti in tutto il mondo per la messa a punto di disegni esclusivi e mette a disposizione un ampio archivio storico di circa 50mila pattern e colori, sviluppati nel tempo. Spesso questi diventano fonte d’ispirazione per i designer, per elaborare prodotti all’avanguardia.

Il grosso sforzo d’innovazione messo in campo vi consente di essere aggiornati sulle tendenze moda più all’avanguardia e offrire la vostra consulenza creativa alle aziende partner. Quali sono i principali trend individuati per le prossime stagioni? EOM: Le principali tendenze che abbiamo individuato sono cinque: RELAXED NEUTRI. Il mood calmo e quieto della stagione scorsa si ripresenta in una nuova gamma di colori neutri “concettuali”, che si pone in antitesi con la fisicità dei materiali. La gamma è dominata dal bianco, accompagnato da neutri chiarissimi ispirati ai colori della pelle, della sabbia, della schiuma e delle seppie e da un blu “celestiale”, appena screziato di lilla. Rubino scuro, grigio acciaio e nero stemperano la neutralità della gamma, mentre un rosso passione si presenta solo come luce di contrasto. LA GIUNGLA DELLE MERAVIGLIE. É un modo di re-inventare in forma giocosa, fantastica e surreale tutto il repertorio dei motivi tropicali, camouflage e animalier. Le stampe sembrano pitture naif. 96


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­­­­­­2 0/20 europe - March 2014

Brand profile Silvian Heach Interview Augusto Valentini Trends Art & Design Lenses & Technology Mazzucchelli 1849

TITANIUM ­­­­­­20/20 europe a Jobson publication nr. 02/2014 - Marzo - Anno XXV FGE Srl - Regione San Giovanni, 40 14053 Canelli (AT)


20/20 Europe March Issue