SUSPECT
OCTOBER 2017
CELEBRATING 2 YEARS OF FASHION & CULTURE
MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
manofmetropolis.com
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52 MAN OF METROPOLIS | THE FASHION ISSUE TREND REPORT 16 The Essentials Our top picks
18 Trend Reports Colors & textures of the seaon
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FASHION SPOTLIGHT 92 Nick Wooster One-on-one with Nick
178 Bruce Pask Fashion, Trends & Inspiration
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Master Lucas
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AMERICAN MADE 50 Todd Snyder Fall & Winter 17 Review
120 Michael Bastian The New Grey Label
MUSIC 8 Braeden Wright Model to Musician
122 Drake White Country Star At Home
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Two years of Fashion & Culture and the future of MAN of METROPOLIS exist in the next 200 pages of this issue. It’s not a small feat that we are here today. Two years has sometimes felt like a decade to me and at times hours. I can’t help but look back to where I was in 2010 where MAN of METROPOLIS all started. I was working for the digital business at Ralph Lauren, swallowing my pride over a small salary, and an even smaller role. I was living off of Subway sandwiches because it was all I could afford. There I was walking the streets of New York, master’s degree in hand was pretty obvious it wasn’t going to be though an entry level job that was ‘my foot in the door’ for a bigger future. So I rolled up my sleeves one Fall afternoon like any unhappy employed person and started a blog called MAN of METROPOLIS. Yep, I blogged. I sat in my ivory tower (so to speak) on 154th and Broadway and wrote about skinny ties, then a review on the Kings of Leon album, a trend report on black jacket’s; ground-breaking. I know. then from Miami. Then the blogging stopped. Yep, I quit. I was too busy with my career as a Creative Director collecting my pay check and building a very beautiful product, voice and brand for another business. I had made it, I was making good money, traveling when I wanted, and buying all those clothes I liked to blog about. There I sat
best shoot for the magazine since we started. And just about a month ago we launched a September Issue that in many ways was a tribute to one of the greats, Bruce Weber. We made a big decision this summer to move our headquarters back to New York. The talent in this city is really second to none. Our growth as a media brand and a magazine has never been more promising and the response since returning where MAN of METROPOLIS started has been extremely positive for us. People say it’s ‘all about relationships’, but I’d like to add ‘…and location.’ Two years of Fashion and Culture and the future of MAN of METROPOLIS exist in the next 200 pages of this issue. It’s our biggest issue yet. Every story started with a mood board, an email, a phone call, a cup of coffee or a meet and greet. This issue was an incredible undertaking. I want to thank everyone for their time, talents, and commitment to excellence in story telling and letting MAN of METROPOLIS be a place they trust their work to. If you are reading this, I want to thank you for considering ‘MM’ enough to stop and take a look at what we are doing. I think you’ll agree it’s something really special.
my mark. Not for me at least. I was working tirelessly for someone else — building their brand while feeling like I was running out of time to do it for myself. Nothing will make you start planning your exit faster then feeling like someone else is getting your best work. So I picked up a camera and started there. I shot models, my trips and in 2015, after an important lunch meeting with a mentor I commited to this whole MAN of METROPOLIS thing again. I pulled double duty working all day at my job and every evening and almost all my own work, my writing, and about 10,000 people saw American Swimmer to Gold Medal in the Summer Olympics. We had some great features inside that issue including Donald Robertson a talented artist and executive at Estee Lauder. Next came a really great project with model Chad White. I could see people needed me to answer the question; who is the MAN of METROPOLIS? So we set out to answer that with a special Fall preview issue and a fashion project at Bloomingdale’s in Miami. It was a huge success, but we had our belt and two more covers with Sullivan Stapleton and Trai Byers to print. Working with multiple creatives can be super rewarding adjustments, and then you make more adjustments. We made some changes and put out a stunning spring fashion issue with model Filip table. Our Summer 2017 cover starred the face of POLO RED actor Luke Bracey photographed by John Russo. It was hands down out 6 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
Seth Travis CEO, FOUNDER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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Culture | Music
BRAEDEN WRIGHT
Interview by Seth Travis Photography by JON WONG
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Braeden Wright can sit for a nice picture, but that is not all he is since he started in the modeling industry Wright has embarked on a new journey as a singer songwriter. We sat down with him following the release of ‘What Once Was Gold (The Demo Sessions) to talk modeling, music and style. and who did you listen to when you were 7/8/9? I’ve always loved music. Some of my earliest memories have to do with me just singing along to whatever I was exposed to around then, either on the radio or in my parents’ collection. My family always told me stories of how I would just get up and sing whatever was in my head. Apparently Billy Ray Cyrus’ ‘Achy Breaky Heart’ was a big one when I was three (laughs)… But I was always really drawn to whatever pop music was on the radio. Ace of Base and Backstreet Boys were big for me when I was a kid. So even from my earliest memories—I have always loved that Max Martin school of pop.
I still listened to a lot of pop in Jr. High. Growing up in the ‘90s—we were inundated with boybands and pop music. My family listened to a lot of different stuff when I was really little—I grew up on Alanis Morissette, The Eagles, Eric Clapton, U2, Fleetwood Mac, Michael Jackson—but when their favourite station changed formats to a Top 40 station, I began to hear a lot of ‘90s pop. My parents never really had a hard and fast preference on musical genres— and I was never really exposed to very much from before the ‘80s... Led Zeppelin and The Beatles just weren’t in my atmosphere for a very long time. But I really did love pop music. At that age, MTV and MuchMusic (growing up in Canada) were at their cultural peak… but it was deep in the era of ‘90s pop. I have always loved melody above all else—so even despite things being what they were at that time, I loved all of it. You just can’t dispute some of the great pop songwriting of that era. The melodies were amazing. There was a reason you had an entire generation going up in a frenzy for it, and back then—I just wanted to go from only listening to actually somehow being a part of it myself. was getting really into alternative and rock at the time. Coldplay’s ‘Parachutes’ was listening to that and a lot of Blink 182, Sum 41… I had joined this band in eighth grade, as the singer, and we would get together and play covers at my friend’s house. There was a lot of Jimmy Eat World. But when they wanted to play New Found Glory, and I didn’t want to—they kicked me out of the band (laughs). I remember going home being so upset, and my older sister (who has incredible taste in music) sat me down, gave me a bunch of music to listen to and told me I was better off without them. She gave me Oasis, Stereophonics, and Travis. I remember that day so clearly. That was the beginning of the rest of my musical life. growing up and when did you discover you could sing? I have always sang. My earliest memories are of me singing, or trying to drum on whatever was around. Somehow beats and melodies always seemed to make sense to me, even just as a little kid. I was always humming along and banging on something… But I was never formally trained. I wasn’t the kid who had piano lessons. I didn’t want to join the school jazz band or something like that. I always had kind of rebelled to that sort of thing, being locked inside a room and having to read the music lesson of the day. That to me seemed to destroy the purity of the love of music I felt inside. Music made me feel free. I didn’t want to sit down and learn today’s lesson-- I just wanted to sing. But that just in the way that I wanted to. For the longest time, I didn’t play any instruments
whatsoever. I dreamed of playing the drums and the guitar—but that just wasn’t something I had access to growing up, and there was no way in hell I was going to be that kid in the hallway carrying a tuba (laughs). best friends and I all saw Green Day in my hometown—back when the American Idiot tour was happening. That album was so great. It was after that show that I remember turning to my best friends and saying “fuck it, let’s start a band… I think we could do it.” So we each picked an instrument to start learning and that was it. We ended up playing an acoustic cover of the Foo Fighters’ ‘Times Like These’ at our high school graduation… Which actually was a pretty big deal to me. I went to one of the biggest high schools in Canada—so our ceremony was at this huge concert hall where all of my favourite bands had played… I got to sing in front of a few thousand people on the same stage where I saw Death Cab and The White Stripes play for myself. That was one of the greatest nights of my life. And that’s when I knew with absolute certainty—that this was what I wanted to do, every night, for the rest of my life. started and thinking about doing a record? at the time, trying to soak it all in and blend it up in my subconscious I Coldplay albums, something by Oasis or U2… I’m sure at some point ‘Run For Cover’ by The Killers, off their new album Wonderful Wonderful. I’ve had it on single song repeat the last three days straight.
Alternative movement of basically anything ‘90s or after. Oasis, Travis, Coldplay, U2, Radiohead—those are all heroes of mine. Basically any that I hold very personally to who I am as an artist and a songwriter. Even though I always loved Max Martin and pop music too—britrock is just my absolute obsession and identity. So much of it is just incredibly melodic and sweeping… there’s a lot of stadium anthems mixed with pop hits mixed with some of the saddest but most affecting music of all time in that whole cannon. As a Canadian, and as someone with a lot of British heritage—for some reason I just completely connect to that style of music. Other songwriters like John Mayer, Ryan Adams, Jeff
gateway for me into alt-country and then later into more country and folk. He will always for me be one of the greats. He is such a genius. I love how with every album he can be so much at one time—he never conwho I am, but who I am is many sides all at once. I guess that comes with
That’s incredibly tough to answer. I love them all on different days in different moods for different reasons. But if I had to choose—I’d say ‘Give You Love’ is my personal favourite. So much of this album was
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Culture | Music written from a place of deep personal heartbreak-- but that song to me always makes me feel hopeful. It came to me in a dream and I wrote it as soon as I woke, completely whole. It just arrived. So even though the lyrics are somewhat desperate, longing for that love to return and be whole again… the music and the feeling comes from that place of optimism for it. It feels like being on the edge of reclaiming what once was-- everything you ever really wanted. So when I hear that, when I sing that, when I play that—it gives me that feeling back. Like you are one word, one look, one kiss away from this deep love. That’s the only reason anyone wants to be alive anyways… so what better feeling could you ask for than that? Tree? OR...? During the conception of this album—it quickly morphed from wasn’t as concerned about the album art… But I am a huge believer in the album format, and artwork to me is such an integral piece of what an album means. One night I was writing, up ‘til 5AM, and working on one of the interludes on the album… I was just feeling very experimental with the whole thing. I was writing down ideas in my notebook and out of nowhere this idea for the perfect album cover came into my head. I drew this terribly novice looking sketch of my idea: me standing in the California desert, mountains in the background, a few palms scattered, with me holding this rose about to fall to the ground. That exact artwork you see came to me exactly as it is. I sketched it before I found it. I spent the next two days researching spots all over California that looked like what I had imagined. I just had this feeling. I have always been mesmerized by the Mojave Desert—and Joshua Tree. Eventually somehow, I found this place called ‘Oasis of Mara’ just outside of Joshua Tree. I had never seen it in my life, but when I saw the picture of it, I had shivers. It was perfect. It was exactly as I had imagined in my mind, exactly as I had drawn. It is this tiny area outside of Joshua Tree that has this collection of palms… they call the town it’s in ‘Twentynine Palms’, after this formation. They are the only palms in the area, as the story goes, there used to be a spring just in that spot—just enough for Palms to grow, but only in that cluster. Eventually though, that spring dried up… and now the palms remain, but only as this kind of reminder of what used to be an Oasis. It’s a reminder of something that once was. It was the most perfect physical representation of the music—the title, the feeling, everything. So my friend and I drove out three hours to the exact spot, at sundown and took that photo. cause it quite literally turned out exactly as I had imagined, story and all. It is such a magical thing to me how it all happened the way that it did. I’ve had a lot of photographs taken of me over the years, but that one to me is by far the most special.
realize exactly who you are. You are constantly under a microscope, both physically and socially—especially now in this age of social media. You are simultaneously rejected and complimented constantly, day in and day out. Eventually, for me, that helped me get quite a thick skin, and just become completely comfortable being myself,
Shirt: Diesel 10 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
no matter who I was in front of. It helped me realize that everyone is just human. It doesn’t matter if it’s Madonna or the guy busking with a Strat in Venice Beach. We are all just people with the same hopes and fears, no matter how big or small the outside world wants to perceive us. It also helped me burst the bubble I had growing up outside of these creative cities like LA and New York… It really helped me realize that you can be whoever you want to be, no matter what. You just have to start, and work your ass off. Eventually it will come in ways you could never, ever predict. If you aren’t, someone else will be, so why can’t it be you? You have to have that mentality or else it will really never happen. my comfort in allowing myself to take a risk, even if that means you might fail. So many things are within reach if only you actually try to reach them, but at the same time, you have to make peace with constant rejection. Failure and pain need to become your best friend in order to be wildly successful, to be someone who pushes your own barriers in life. Once you accept failure as actually the key to success, nothing can stop you. The rest is up to you—with a little bit of help from the universe, of course. But if you don’t just start, it really will never happen.
Modeling involves a lot of slipping into a role someone else creates for you. It’s like acting, but for still shots. Sometimes you are more yourself—but you are almost always just trying to serve the vision of the photographer as best as you can. It is a creative collaboration in that way. Music, for me at least, is a lot more personal. It all comes completely from me—I decide what melodies, what sounds, what words, what image, what emotion— and then I get to step into those. Sometimes they are extremely personal, sometimes they are a heightened form of myself, a bit of a character… but it is always something that comes directly from within me. I am emanating in my communication as opposed to being captured. It’s a lot more of sending something outwards for people to connect to than someone else’s vision coming to you and shaping you.
My ALLSAINTS leather biker jacket. Describe your style onstage; describe your style off stage? My styles don’t change too much. Who I am on stage is very much who I am off stage. Maybe it’s a more heightened side of me—but it is still very much me. All of the characters I might want to play aren’t anyone else but the ones that already exist within me on some level. So maybe off stage I might dress a little less loud—a little more casual—but you will Converse, leather jacket, neutral tones… and my favourite jewelry. I love to fuse Britrock fashion with some of the high fashion I’ve grown up with in this industry, but you won’t see me stray too far from that. I like to keep it simple. I like to be myself. Hopefully people see that, and connect with me just as that: just me trying to be who I am.
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Grooming | Skincare
BACK TO BASICS
Expert Grooming & Beauty tips with Mary Guthrie
underhydrated their skin is. Hydration is one of the basic, key fundamentals to maintaining healthy skin, especially during dry climate change. To maintain healthy, youthful skin, Hydration should be incorporated into your daily grooming routine; after shower and or daily face wash and skincare. 12 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
WHY MASK? During dry/harsh weather, opt for a non- abrasive Overnight Mask to achieve the deep hydration needed during the dryer fall/winter months. Top picks: LANEIGE Water Sleeping Mask & Embryolisse Hydrating Cream Mask
BEARD THERAPY To maintain healthy, happy, hydrated facial hair, deep clean and condition using a mild facial soap followed by some beard oil/conditioner. Top Pick: BEARD OIL GUYZ (25 Blend Beard Oil)
PROTECT
Low Humidity during the winter months can damage & dry out your Scalp & Hair, leaving it lackluster. Be sure to use a hair mask once weekly or as needed. (Apply, let sit 5 mins, rinse) Top pick: Kérastase Créam Chronologiste
model: John King / Wilhelmina photo: Standa Merhout 13
Grooming | Fragrances
FRAGRANCES
5 SCENTS Seasons are changing and so should our fragrances. It’s time to put away those light citrus enfused colognes and eau de toilet sprays and replace with something new for autumn and winter. We have rounded up the best scents of the season with fragrances from Calvin Klein, Lacoste, and Hugo Boss.
1. ETERNITY Calvin Klein - Classic and sexy 2. BOSS Hugo Boss - Elegant and understated 3. L’HOMME Lacoste - Full Bodied and masculine 4. OBSESSED Calvin Klein - Light and sophisticated 5. BOSS BOTTLED TONIC Hugo Boss - Sensual and clean
Fashion | The Essentials
THE EXECUTIVE He doesn’t do suits, ties, or board room style meetings. A good leaders walks slow and doesn’t spend too much time on his clothes; but he should still look good. He entertains investors and clients while always wearing a dark color palette that is easy to mix and or his love for time pieces and his beloved sneaker collection.
Distinguished by its all-black exterior, three black sub-dials and transparent caseback, the watch houses a Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01 in-house
A western inspired print in black and grey make this the perfect sweater for any urban enthusiast for the
blend of grapefruit, fresh aquatic, warm pepper and cedarwood,this enigmatic scent embodies those who dare to be different. Availble in varous nuetral tones including navy, these Italian made trousers will keep you looking sharp. Adding crocodile to your belt and sterling silver buckle elevates any look even with chinos or denim. Pelle Tessuta Portfolio notebook, a smart phone and tablet devices for the manon the go.
Street style has played a major role in sneakers having a fashion moment, but these italian made shoes are elegant, sporty and comfortable. Shirt: BURBERRY / T-shirt: CALVIN KLEIN UNDERWEAR / Sweatpants: Y-3 / Boots: MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION 16 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
THE INFLUENCER He is always on the move. Flying from west coast to east coast like it’s a sport. He’s gotta be comfortable while looking good from the main cabin to cocktails with clients. He cares about what is wearing but he doesn’t take himself too serioulsy; he values well tailored clothing and products that can handle his busy lifesyle.
A great piece for yoru wrist that has tones of style without the weight or the cost.
Heather greay is sporty, masculine and goes with any skintone, so add this to your in-air look or commuter style for any destination. Simple and light headhones for travel or working, thanks to swedish design. Availble in varous nuetral tones including navy, these Italian made trousers will keep you looking sharp.
Everyone needs a bag for their essentials to any destination and this calfskin book bag from the folks at Ralph Lauren will keep you organized and looking cool.
If you are looking for something other than Jordan’s look no further than to this new deisgn by Zegna in great colors of the season.
The Todd Snyder team always have cool collaborations and this one with New Era and Champion is esspecially good with more styles at toddsnyder.com
Sweater: POLO RALPH LAUREN 17
Fashion | Trend Report
TODD SNYDER FW17
PANTONE 16-1439 TPX Caramel
We know everyone is saying camel, but we think a richer darker Caramel is where your color palette should go. If you are looking to dress for the season while elevating your style game add a version of this color to your wardobe and you will be golden.
Shop hm.com Shop zara.com/us Shop: zegna.us Polo Ralph Lauren Nickson Suede Wingtip Boot Shop ralphlauren.com Couture Shop zegna.us Miansai Leather Casing Bracelet Shop miansai.com
Shop zegna.us Shop miansai.com
Fashion | Trend Report
A SHEARLING THING We saw it all over the runway last winter and past decades but now it’s bac. Shearling has arrived online and in-store, everyhwere. Yes, the shearling lined vest, coat, jacket are trending at every price point so everyone can join this very cozy movement. Even the classic denim jacket has shearling this season. We also love the FLIGHT JACKET with shearling lining (not shown here) by Todd Snyder. No matter your budget you can add shearling to your wardrobe; shop our favoites at H&M, Ralph Lauren, Ermenegildo Zegna & Giorgio Armani and more.
Ermenegildo Zegna FW17
ZARA
NAUTICA
ZARA
ZARA
Photographer Carolyne Teston Photo assistant Landon Ford Styling Julian Antetomaso Grooming Kaori Yamamoto Models Jordan Paris and Terence Telle SOUL
TITLE PAGE Sweater: Raf Simons Pants: Sandro Sneakers: Converse NEXT PAGE Sweater and pants Bottega Veneta Shirt Burberry Tie: Prada Sneakers: Converse 23
Hat and Striped Shirt: Ralph Lauren 24 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Brown Suede Jacket: Ports 1961 White Thermal, Belt, Pants: Ralph Lauren 26 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
SLEFT Hoodie: Alexander Wang RIGHT Jacket and Sweater: Sandro Shirt: Burberry Tie: Prada Jeans: Tommy Hilfiger Briefs: Versace
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Jacket, shirt and pants: Tommy Hilfiger Tie: Givecnhy
Jacket, sweater and pants Alexander Wang Shirt Burberry Sunglasses Giorgio Armani 30 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
Shirt: Ralph Lauren
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LEFT: Shirt and pants Alexander Wang Boots Bottega Veneta RIGHT: Jacket, tank and pants: Issey Miyake Sneakers: Converse
Fashion | Spotlight
ADAM DALTON BLAKE
THE NEW BOY IN TOWN BY KRISTOPHER FRASER
Every young design student dreams of moving to New York and having their fashion career dreams come true. Life isn’t a CW series though, unless of course you’re Adam Dalton Blake. The menswear designer, only a year fresh out of design school, debuted his latest collection under his eponymous label at New York Fashion Week in September. Blake was one of three lucky designers chosen to be part of the CFDA and LIFEWTR showcase, where he also got to design a special LIFEWTR bottle that was available for guests at Fashion Week. His design featured a crowd of people who were literally every color of the rainbow wearing every style of sunglasses from star to heart shaped. While he’s enjoyed meteoric success at a young age, Blake didn’t grow up with dreams of being a designer. “My mother wanted me to be a soap opera star. I got my name because she thought it sounded actor worthy” Blake said. However, his true loves growing up were opera and art. Eventually, he decided to go the art route focusing on becoming a painter. He applied early decision to Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), and describes the moment he got his acceptance letter as the happiest day of his life. Blake describes his time at RISD as “being at art camp for four years.” foundation classes before he declared his major. Up until the end of his freshman year, he was still focused on painting. The turning point for him came when he went to the senior critique for the apparel design majors, and he left realizing fashion design was his calling. was thanks to Nicole Miller. As an alumnus of RISD, Miller is still very involved with the apparel design program. She provided one of his classes with prints from some of her previous collections to create something new. Blake created a rainbow Amish inspired man romper, and thus his design aesthetic was born. 34 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Fashion | Spotlight
Four years of so-called art camp culminated in his NYFW debut during the RISD graduating class of 2016 showcase. The theme for his collection was baseball, where he did a kitschy take on masculinity called “Big League Chew.” Since then, he’s done two other collections, including fall/ winter 2017’s “Riot Boys”, based on the 2016 election cycle, and his collection that debuted with CFDA and LIFEWTR titled “Fifteen short shorts. everything he does has a deeper meaning. “Riot Boys was my analysis of how politics could be used as a sales tactic rather than a system of beliefs,” Blake said. That collection gave us pieces with statements like “United States of America Ferrera” and “Redo” emblazoned in sequins. It debuted right after inauguration day, just the perfect timing to get the public’s attention. The designer is no stranger to getting his work noticed though. In 2016, prior to getting involved with CFDA and LIFEWTR, Blake was highlighted by the CFDA + program, which highlights exemplary graduating talent, as a designer to watch. When he got the phone call with the offer to be involved with CFDA and LIFEWTR, he had only been living in New York for two out I have an opportunity a recent graduate could only dream of. To have the support of both CFDA and LIFEWTR is crazy. After they called me, I just remember immediately calling my mother to freak out.” In addition to his eponymous line, Blake also works as an assistant designer at Bonobos, so, yes, you probably have him to thank for some of those recent Bonobos purchases in your closet. As for how he handles both working at Bonobos and doing his plus I draw all the time!” With everything he does, Blake wants to make sure his appreciation for diversity always shines through. “I learned so much about different cultures from the international students at RISD, and it really helped make my work more impactful,” Blake said. “The more knowledge you have about people with different cultures and beliefs helps you create work that’s more impactful. That’s what my whole print for the LIFEWTR bottle was about, embracing diversity and showing how everyone is interconnected.” That little boy with a paint brush grew up to be one of the most talked about young American menswear designers. Blake is proof dreams really can come true. 36 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
COURTESY OF ADAM DALTON BLAKE
Cardigan: HERMES / Sweater: BURBERRY / Cargo Pants: MONCLER / Boots: MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION 37
PHOTOGRAPHER Brendan Wixted STYLIST Bronson Vajda HAIR Gonn K MAKEUP Alex T VIDEOGRAPHER Hunter Lyon ASSISTANT Quinn Garvey MODEL Spencer James AGENCY Heroes New York 38 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Jacket Lemaire, Polo Necessity, Trousers Lemaire, Glasses Blyszak, Bag Vintage 40 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Flannel Represent, Turtleneck Necessity Sense, Trousers Represent, Belt COS, Glasses Blyszak Footwear- Filing Pieces 42 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Overcoat Necessity Sense, Hoodie One DNA,T-shirt Uniqlo, Denim Represent, Footwear Filing Pieces 44 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Leather Jacket Musika Frere Turtleneck Uniqlo, Denim & Boots Represent 47
Overcoat Necessity Sense, Denim Shirt Allsaints, Track Pant YOSSI New York, Boots Represent 48 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Fashion | Review
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TODD SNYDER Fall & Winter 2017
BY MARTIN LERMA & PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROLYNE TESTON
“I took varsity, military and prep, put it all in a blender and this is what came out,” Todd Snyder told reporters backstage during his blockbuster fall show. Snyder is one of the leading menswear designers on the New York calendar in terms of reach and recognition with a presentation setting that matched his ambition. Rows of long black benches with show notes and seat numbers neatly laid out greeted throngs of guests as they descended on the moody space that would prove a pointed counterbalance to the clothes themselves. Snyder went back to his roots at Iowa State University for this particular collection all of which came through the clothes with precision. There was a late 70s/early 80s spin on everything from the slim track suits in camel velvet to a stunning shearling coat with the fur on the exterior to the narrow collegiate scarves tossed behind shoulders. It was a comfortable balance of showpieces designed to excite and what is actually going to be hanging on the racks in a few months’ time.
With day clothes the core message of this collection, Snyder seemed to offer comfort through the generous use of texture with corduroys in caramel tones, washed leather and great knits comprising a trinity of recurring elements that lent consistency while reinforcing the houses aesthetic codes. The show had an undeniable energy that created a crescendo for Fashion Week: Men’s, an initiative that is still gaining steam amid a struggling system. If the crowd that came out in force to support Snyder is any indication, he has no cause for concern. Though he only launched his namesake label in 2011, Snyder has enjoyed incredible professional experience at Polo Ralph Lauren and the Gap learning what men desire at many different price points. Snyder’s New York Left Image Pants and Sweater by Nautica Shirt by Steven Alan City flagship store is officially open for business and his momentum shows no Hat by: Krammer & Stoudt Right Image Sweater by Filson signs of dissipating soon. Shirt by Krammer & Stoudt Pants by Matiere Sneaker by Billyanytime Reid 51
Model CORY BOND Photographer AMBER MCKEE Wardrobe Stylist BETH HITCHCOCK Groomer SARA CHESTNUTT-FRY
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Shirt and pants Just Cavalli, Jacket Vintage Shoes Thursday Boots 53
RIGHT: Jacket Just Cavalli, Turtleneck, Mr. Turk 54 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Sweater: Calvin Klein Trousers: David Hart
LEFT: Jumpsuit Mr. Turk Shirt Zadig and Voltaire 59
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Page Left: Shirt : Top Man
Page Right:The T-ShirtKooples, : H&M Vest : Pants LEFT: Hat Resistol, Shirt Just Cavalli RIGHT: Jacket Topman, Sweater Zachary Prell, Pants Roberto Cavalli, Shoes Thursday Boots 61
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Make-up/Groomer/Hair: Theo A. Faulkner Market Editor: Rashad Minnick Stylist Asst: Brandi Murray Retoucher: Marco Massa Models: Rudnei Gracyk, Q Models Randy Aquino, Surface Models 66 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
Sweater
, Pant Bally Shoes, GOLA 67
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RIGHT: SHIRT SELECTED HOMME, Undershirt H&M, Pants BALLY, Shoes, LEFT: Jacket 3.1 Phillip Lim, Shorts Public School, ShoesRucksack: Nike Agentry PR, Rings Lucas Plus Go Forth Goods / Shirt: Diesel / Jeans: Zara 69
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LEFT: ShIrt Hugo Boss, Undershirt H&M Pants & Boots 3.1 Phillip Llim, Jacket Lucio Castro Rings Lucas Plus, RIGHT: Sweater Lucio Castro, Shirt H&M, Pants Joseph Abboud Shoes, GOLA Shirt: Diesel / Jeans: Zara 72 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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PHOTOGRAPHERS: JOHN RUSSO & BLAKE STYLIST: JAVON DRAKE GROOMER: GREG CLARK MODELS: KENNETH GUIDROZ, SOUL ARTIST MANAGEMENT PRODUCTION COORDINATOR: CAMACHO SHOT ON LOCATION MONTECITO CALIFORNIA
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SUN SOAKED SATURDAY Photographer: Frederic Pinet Stylist: Veronica Garrote, Utopia the Agency Stylist Assistant: Jasmyne Boivin
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COOL STYLE DIRECTOR GREGORY WEIN PHOTOGRAPHY AYDIN ARJOMAND GROOMING JOHNNY LAVOY at ABTP.COM TALENT TUCKER RAJALA
COTTON T-SHIRT, CASHEMERE SWEATER, CORDUROY OVERCOAT DENIM JEANS & LEATHER SHOES BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, brunellocucinelli.com, JEWELRY EDITIONS DE RE, . TIMEPIECE OMEGA, omegawatches.com
CASHMERE T-SHIRT, CASHMERE BLAZER, CASHMERE TROUSERS, SHEARLING LOAFERS & LEATHER BAG, BOTTEGA VENETA,
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CASHMERE KNIT SWEATER, DOWN FILLED OVERCOAT, WOOL TROUSERS, LEATHER LACE-UP BOOTS, ERMENEGILDO S ZEGNA, zegna.com 81
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COTTON BRIEFS, CALVIN calvinklein.us, COTTON SWEATPANTS, TODD SNYDER + CHAMP TION, toddsnyder.com. JEWELRY, EDITIONS DE RE, , TIMEPIECE, OMEGA, omegawatches.com 83
Carson Blue orange and pink shorts: Rufskin Blue tinted sunglasses: American Eagle
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Eduardo Dark green palm tree shorts: Hydrogen luxury swimwear Straw hat: Stylist Own Wrap Bracelet: Miansai Valentina Stripe bikini: Montce swim Jewelry: Stylist Own Choker: Stylist Own COVER: Karl: Henley: Vince, Pant: Jeans by Seven John: Top: J. Crew, Body Chain: Crave Salt
Khakis: Sacoor Brothers, Necklace: Aldo Lucas: Sweater: Vince, Jeans: Models Marcus: Henley: Vince, Jacket: Jbrand, Pant:85 Jbrand
Eduardo Dark blue & white stripe trunks: Selected Homme Wrap Bracelet: Miansai Shoes: Converse White palm printed shirt: Ralph Lauren Yellow shorts: Lacoste Sunglasses: Hydrogen by Jplus Necklace: Fender Shoes: Nike Carson Floral shorts: 2(x)ist Tropical island orange shirt: Vintage 60s/70s from FlyBoutique.com Sunglasses: Vintage Shoes: Vans Valentina Orange bikini top: Model’s Own Snapback hat: Little Rio Studios Miami Short jeans: 1990s Bongos Jean Shorts Jewelry: Stylist Own Body Chain: Crave Salt (Jeep Driver) Blue white and red shorts: Chambray Shirt: Ralph Lauren Watch: Rolex Submariner Bracelet: Fitbit Shoes: Sperry Top Siders Sunglasses: Tom Ford 86 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
COTTON / CASHMERE BUTTON DOWN SHIRT, KNIT TIE, CASHMERE DOUBLE-BREASTED BLAZER, CASHMERE POCKET SQUARE CASHMERE OVERCOAT AND DENIM JEANS, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, brunellocucinelli. com. JEWELRY, EDITIONS TIMEPIECE, OMEGA, omega watches.com NYLON WRAP BELT, EDDIE BAUER, eddie bauer.com LEATHER LACE-UP BOOTS, ARMANDO CABRAL, armandocabral.comi 87
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Fashion | Spotlight
NICK WOOSTER DOES IT FOR THE CLOTHES BY SETH TRAVIS
Nick Wooster has done it all and he’s not afraid to talk about it. His career is a virtual MBA in Fashion with stints at Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Calvin Klein, Polo Ralph Lauren and Thom Browne. But his demeanor doesn’t scream fashion god, he’s actually very laid back, soft spoken, and refreshingly humble. And after at least a decade of following him, it was a nice surprise to witness one of fashion’s tatted-out trailblazers — is a nice guy! ion right now, he replies; I don’t think anyone knows. didn’t start on Instagram or online it started decades ago on the store Neiman Marcus and Senior Vice President at JC Penny. He has gone ‘free agent’ now where he resides in air as often as he does walking the sure he attends all the shows sitting front row, and is visible on Instagram for his famed street style game. “I thought in order to work in the business, you had to dress well. I was doing this since I was 16 years old. What it boils down to — I just love clothes. I think about them a lot. There isn’t a place I go in the world that I am not shopping. Of course I go to museums, but until I go into a store and buy something I’m not happy. Really a trip isn’t complete until I’ve bought something.” There was a time where Nick Wooster was in it for the cocktails and the parties but now this is not the time. It is all-out the clothes. “My access is better today than it was eight years ago, and it’s certainly better than it was when I was 16 years old. The only reason I work in fashion is because one 100% I am in it for the clothes and I am not in it for anything else.” Wooster drove home. Though events are impressive and make Wooster thankful to be there; he talks about the sense duty that goes along with his place in the industry and admits he doesn’t deserve an A for his attendance, “I give myself a C- because there are a lot of things I don’t attend that I should — everyone has a stake in this. Somebody has gone through the trouble of inviting me but there is now way I can do all of them.” During our sit-down I shared the digital landscape on social media wear; and It’s clear these days a lot of people out there are saying they know everything about fashion but, Wooster is happy to admit ‘I don’t know everything.’ When asked about what the hell is going on in fash-
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Wooster pivots to the one who might know everything about menswear, Thomas Kalenderian, the 59 year old Executive Vice President of Men’s Merchandising, Barneys New York. “I don’t know another soul on the planet who possesses as much knowledge as that man does.” Wooster stresses that we are on cusp of something; a lot of brands, a lot of stores and publications are not going to make it. It is going to separate the men from the boys when it comes to talent and knowledge.” He points to upstarts as the possibility of future success and not just the established companies and media brands. But what is the real problem with men’s fashion I asked Wooster and he leveled with us bluntly; “If you are a retail store and you are having trouble, I guarantee — it’s because your merchandise sucks. Because you buy it terribly and your products are horrible, period. And I believe the same thing for Brands, if your a brand and your struggling it means that your not resinating with your customer. Until those two things are resolved the stronger will continue to be stronger and the weak will be eliminated.” He admits it’s a very hard ass truth but, the casualties are coming. The opportunity ahead for those who are nimble shall inherit the earth according to Wooster, much like trying to catch a train; the person with a carry-on is more likely to get their ride while others with more bag will be left at the station. These companies, some amazing institutions may not make it to the next destination as a result. “If you work at Barney’s (which I recommend highly) you will learn more about the world, and people and every single brand than sitting behind a computer or getting your picture taken and posting it on Instagram (that’s not teaching you anything). The point is, you understand about delivery, you understand quality and product. Then you understand hey wait this shirt really sells, there is a business here. To learn about that from the ground up is liking earning an MBA, expect they are paying you.” “I hear people say that social media and blogs are terrible, and in a certain way they are because it has upended the system; but you know what it doesn’t matter what I think. The point is they have and this is what exists, now.” Wooster says he is not that special and explains the world shouldn’t be interested in him. But they are interested in Nick Wooster, what he thinks and what he wears, including what parties he attends. In a time where people and brands grasp to stay relevant — Wooster stays true to himself does it all for the clothes and knows that nothing lasts forever. PHOTOGRAPHER: JOHN RUSSO
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FA L L I N G S L O W LY Story by Erik Carter Styling by Mike Stallings Model Isaiah Hamilton
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Left Image Sweater: Life After Denim Shirt: Steven Alan Pants by LACOSTE Boots by Diesel Right Image Coat by Filson Shirt by Steven Alan 99
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Jacket by Ralph Lauren, Top by Top Man, Shirt: Steven Hat: Pants by Ralph Lauren, Gray Alan Boots byFilson YSL 101
SUSPECT Story by Bell Soto Model Oli Lacey with IMG Styling by Nicholas Whitehouse Grooming by Mary Guthrie with ABTP Produced by Seth Travis
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Brown Coat - Bottega Veneta Light Brown Sweater - Michael Kors Striped Button Down Shirt - Salvatore Ferragamo Sunglasses - Georgio Armani 103
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PHOTOGRAPHERS: JOHN RUSSO & BLAKE Grey Knit Suit - Tomas Maier STYLIST: JAVON DRAKE Cream GREG Sweater - Z Zegna GROOMER: CLARK Black Sneakers - Hermes MODELS: KENNETH GUIDROZ, SOUL ARTIST MANAGEMENT Glasses -CAMACHO Ray-Ban PRODUCTION COORDINATOR: SHOT ON LOCATION MONTECITO CALIFORNIA
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Navy Coat - Michael Kors Cream Sweater - Bottega Veneta Cream Knit Pants - Botteg Veneta Brown Boots - Michael Kors
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Fashion | Spotlight
Life Lessons from Raul Lopez of Luar BY KRISTOPHER FRASER
their craft. Then there’s Raul Lopez, who didn’t want the restrictions of formal education and decided to make a fashion career happen anyways. Lopez came to fame as co-creative director of Hood by Air alongside Shayne Oliver. Despite his lack of formal design training, he had an eye for something different and never let himself be placed in a box. Growing up when he was a kid, he was always into fashion. In junior high he used to stay up until 5 a.m. sewing his own clothes. In high school he started making clothes for his friends. Eventually, he met Oliver and they became fast friends. Oliver was the one who originally had the idea for Hood by Air, and thought that it would really work for Lopez if he came on board to design the brand with him. Thus, Hood by Air was born, where Lopez would spend seven years of his life. While many successful designers pride themselves on their intensive and extensive design educations, he never saw the need to have a brand name fashion school on his résumé. “While I think education is important, I don’t think you need formal design training to be a great designer,” he says. “School is a way to teach you how to pay back debt. All these design students go through so much education, but then they their disposal, but they can’t create something unique. If you have talent you have it, you can’t be taught talent.” Lopez’s design approach is based on designing for himself and his experiences. He never let’s anyone tell him how to design. Given his lack of formal fashion education, his initial learning experiences came from his time at Hood by Air where he learned both the professional aspects of the business as well what it was like to work with someone you really connect with. “It was crazy for me meeting Shayne,” Lopez says. “He’s so advanced for his age, we were both into the same things, both from Caribbean backgrounds, both raised in Brooklyn, and we both wanted to do something that would make both traditional fashion people uncomfortable and people in the hood uncomfortable.” 116 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
While Hood by Air became his baby, Lopez felt that after seven years with the brand it was time to move on and do his own line. “Stepping away from Hood by Air was like getting a divorce, and having Shayne get all the custody,” he says. His separation from the brand and his business partner was amicable, as Oliver understood Lopez’s desire to branch out. In 2011, he started his current brand Luar, originally called Luar Zepol (his name spelled backwards.) However, after three years of doing designs considered ahead of the curve, Lopez went on a hiatus from designing. “I spent half my time for the next several years doing nothing, and the other half trying to design,” Lopez says. “I didn’t know what I was going to do. I kept doubting myself. Finally, I had a friend who told me snap out of it and do another runway show. He promised me that he would be there to keep pushing me every step of the way. That really helped me get out of a dark spot.” While his comeback process was a tough one, he lived for every got how good really designing felt. It was like being a heroine addict, then going to rehab to get cleaned up, and then relapsing and remembering how good drugs felt. Coming back was such a good high.” He rebranded his line as just Luar, spent two months working on his collection for New York Fashion Week: Men’s, which was inspired by post-gender streetwear and chaos, and the fashion world welcomed him back with open arms. His September women’s show was a last minute women’s line. His design process is a particularly unique one. “I will go and sit in one spot and just look at water until I get an idea,” Lopez says. “I will not move from that spot until I get a good idea.” young designs students, “Read!” He says. “Go to the library. Research is key. The library is 24 hours now because of the internet. Don’t get inspiration from Tumblr and Instagram.”
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Fashion | Spotlight
MICHAEL BASTIAN GRAY LABEL BY SETH TRAVIS
Michael Bastian founded his name sake menswear brand in 2006 following an illustrious career at both Ralph Lauren as a menswear designer and 5 years at Bergdorf Goodman as men’s fashion director. Before there was the also secured impressive collaborations with GANT, and GAP twice in partnership with GQ magazine. He also has of the Year, and won in 2011. Full disclosure, Michael Bastian has been one of my favorite designers since he set out on his own and it has been incredible watching this career change and evolve along with the changing industry. Just more than a decade as a brand, Michael Bastian has returned with a spinoff brand called Michael Bastian Gray Label, a more affordable collection without sacsought after by menswear enthusiasts, and retailers alike. “The idea of; I am going to take you on a trip, is a little old. I want to focus more on a color story — it’s a more modern take on building a collection.” the designer outlined to us. When asked who the ‘guy is’ his customer, he said it was always him. A guy who is in his 30’s or 40’s and loved dressing up. “Now, it can’t just be about me. It’s got to have a much more broader audience.” Bastian calls out the look book as a prime example or how his new brand has evolved. When asked who the designer would like to see in his new 118 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
MICHAEL BASTIAN GRAY LABEL AW17
Gray Label, Bastian replied, actor Justin Theroux. Michael Bastian’s new gray label is grown-up, very rugged, yet still possesses that all-American classic look. These clothes are an alternative to shopping at J.Crew, Banana Republic, and some of the emerging fast fashion brands that just can’t compete with the quality of the garments Michael Bastian Gray Label offers. You can shop it on gilt.com and other retailers which reinforces his mission for accessiblity. When asked about the change in direction for had an amazing 10 year run with the collection doing what I was doing, and I stepped back and was looking at it all. I am in a position where I can either do something else with my life, or I can take my brand and treat it like a make it more accessible to customers.” For fans that grew up with Michael Bastian’s products at Bergdorf Goodman and Mr. Porter his new pieces for Fall Winter 2017 are more affordable than ever and helpful to the customer looking for style and substance but who also might have a mortgage, a family and other expenses. “Everything feels new again, and personally it’s a new start for me. I am out there hustling a new brand, I am in Vegas selling a new brand.” Bastian explained. As for Michael Bastian the person? “The biggest thing that became an extension of my apartment — it looked like my we were reevaluating where all the money was going, ya District and having all these employees and two warehouses. We just didn’t need it anymore. Now my life was team — the design team has been decentralized. There are teams that work on shoes, small leather goods and so on and I visit these teams. Just the fact of letting go of that The ‘right timing, the right everything’ as Bastian puts it was with Bluestar Alliance a brand managealso represent English Laundry, bebe, and others. Most recently Bastian made an appearance at New York Men’s Day showing his SS17 Gray Label which was not originally listed in the program of designers at the presentation, so we are seeing some strategic moves by Bastian and Bluestar that will get his new brand on everyone’s lips and into everyone’s closets.
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MUSIC | Spotlight
DRAKE WHITE MM: What do you enjoy for fun? DW: The raspy growl and just the soulfulness, and gospel comes from just that. It comes from church. I grew up on a lot of Ray Charles records and just have always been a far of the blues and a fan of soul music, you know? Old Otis Reading and artists like that.
DW: When I’m not writing or touring or hangin’ out, you know, we’ve got a pool at the house, I love to go out, and, you know, I love working out, exercising, I love good food and having friends over. We love to entertain, you know, we love you know, just the outdoors. Anything I can do outdoors and get my shoes off and get my soul and my spirit clean out there, that’s what I like to do. Whether it be hikin’, kayakin’, bringing up people over and lovin’ on them, and entertaining at the house.”
DW: Alabama was great. I grew up right in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains in a small town called Hokes Bluff, Alabama. And, uh, there was about 4300 people that live in Hokes Bluff, I graduated with 88 folks, and we grew up on the you know, pontoon boats and horseshoes and, and just real simply. We grew up simply and faith-driven and it was a great way to grow up.
DW: We do tour a lot. Nashville is my home, I’ve been living there since 2007, and I have a house out there and a small farm and me and my wife love it. We consider Nashville our home. It’s became a part of us, you know, just the creative juices that are great, and uh, I was born in Alabama and will always call
MM: Describe your personal style? DW: My personal style is just, I call it “Appalachian chic,” I know that’s funny but, you know, it’s really just… I love natural tones, I love natural colors, snappy clothes, you know, I’m a big denim guy. Love a cool hat, I love some jewelry with a story. You know, bracelets with a story, necklaces with a story, you know, we make a lot of our necklaces from the wildlife and from the natural stuff that’s around our house in Tennessee and Alabama. My must-have item would probably have to be my shades. You know, a good pair of shades in the day, to get you through, is something I’ve always worn. zone? DW: A kind of piece, that, it is those hats. A piece that I wasn’t
my roots now.” ago, and the hat just ‘came a part of me, you know, I felt comfortable with it on and that’s how…every good piece of clothing, that’s kind of the scale there. If it makes you feel good, then rock it. DW: Aw man, recording is digital. It’s always changing, and my style – I love that roots-y, organic style, and it’s just really want out of your music. We rely on our hearts and our muscles and everything, you know just truly playing our instruments… and that live sound is what we love to create, so we just, in the studio, we take that live sound in and we try to reenact that.
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DW: I’m absolutely living the dream. I think we work really hard at coming out here and doin’ our thing, and you know, it’s about family for me, you know, me and my wife, and doing what we wanna do when we wanna do it, and uh, lovin’ on people, and accomplishing goals, and not taking ourselves too seriously, and just making great music and, uh, yeah. Creating
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RIGHT: Jacket: Zadig and Voltaire Shirt: Ruckle and Rye of Nashville LEFT: Jacket and Vest: Zadig and Voltaire jeans and boots: Drake’s own 122 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Hat Resistol Photographer AMBER MCKEE Wardrobe Stylist BETH HITCHCOCK Groomer SARA CHESTNUTT-FRY 127
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GIVE ME SHELTER Photography by Douglas Mott Fashion Stylist: Alison Hernon Coat by Filson Cardigan Sweater by Life After Denim Pants by LACOSTE Boots by Diesel
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Blazer by Billy Reid Hoodie by Selected Homme Pants by Krammer & Stoudt Bracelet by Miansai 133
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LEFT: Sweater: Life After Denim Shirt: Steven Alan Pants by LACOSTE Boots by Diesel RIGHT: Coat by Filson Shirt by Steven Alan 135
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Massimo Dutti Boots by Florsheim 137
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Shirt: Steven Alan Hat: Filson 139
LEFT: Pants and Sweater by Nautica Shirt by Steven Alan Hat by: Krammer & Stoudt RIGHT: Sweater by Filson Shirt by Krammer & Stoudt Pants by Matiere Sneaker by Billy Reid 140 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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B E A U T Y is in the eye of the
B E H O LD E R
photo & casting BRENT CHUA creative director SETH TRAVIS stylist JUNGLE LIN grooming SHIMU models BRANDON GOOD @ NEW YORK MODELS, CHRISTOPHER GEORGE @ DNA, DAVID BYWATER @ DNA, DAVID HOWLAND @ WILHELMINA, HAKIL HAXHIU @ SOUL, RAFAEL MILLET @ NEXT, STACEY EDWARD @ MAJOR, and WON JUNG JO @ RED
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David Howland Jewelry by Bernard James Jacket by Emporio Armani & Bottega Veneta 146 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Hakil Haxhiu Jewelry by Bernard James Top by Calvin Klein 148 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Christopher George Jewelry by Bernard James Coat by Emporio Armani Jeans by Model Own 150 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Stacey Edward Jewelry by Bernard James Coats by Prada Jeans by Model Own 153
Won Jung Jo Jewelry by Bernard James Coats by Bottega Veneta
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David Bywater Jewelry by Bernard James Coats by Balenciaga 157
Rafael Miller Jewelry by Bernard James Jeans Model’s own
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Brandon Good Jewelry by Bernard James Jacket by Ermenegildo Zegna Jeans model’s own
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On Brodie Jacket: Todd Patrick Shirt: Control Sector Pants: Joseph Aboud Shoes: Calvin Klein On Eric Jacket: Sweater: Todd Patrick Pants: Todd Patrick Shoes: Steve Madden 166 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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On Brodie Jacket: Control Sector Shirt: Todd Patrick Pants: Control Sector Shoes: Robert Wayne On Eric Jacket: ASOS Shirt: Salvatore Galliano Overalls: Control Sector Shoes: Calvin Klein 169
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On Brodie Jacket: Control Sector Jacket under: Control Sector Pants: Todd Patrick Shoes: Calvin Klein On Eric Jacket: Todd Patrick Shirt: Todd Patrick Pants: Control Sector Shoes: Van Heusen 172 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
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Fashion | Review
Left Image Pants and Sweater by Nautica Shirt by Steven Alan Hat by: Krammer & Stoudt Right Image Sweater by Filson Shirt by Krammer & Stoudt Pants by Matiere Sneaker by Billy Reid 174 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
BRETT JOHNSON Fall & Winter 2017
Part showroom, part art gallery, part meeting space for the creative set, Cadillac House in Manhattan’s tony Soho neighborhood provided the airy space for Brett Johnson’s Fall 2017 presentation. This outing marked Johnson’s third time parrunway show. Originally from Virginia, he used the majestic Blue Ridge Mountains as a point of inspiration for his earthy color palette. The majority of the garments crafted were made in shades of dark gray, chocolate brown, tan and navy with shots of sunrise yellow, lavender and pale sky blue that recalled misty landscapes lush with foliage. Johnson’s proposal for the season was based on a layered, sporty look with slim turtlenecks beneath button-up shirts and cropped outerwear (like a beautiful black leather bomber jacket with contrast fur collar) over louche separates. In fact, most of the outerwear shown was cropped with iterations of baseball jackets and military jackets featuring patchwork leather components being the most prominent examples. Johnson himself said, mere blend best represents the message of the entire collection,” when describing his favorite piece. Classic English footwear purveyor Gola completed the look with sneakers in the same muted shades as the clothes.
Overall, the clothes were lovely and immensely wearable (no small accomplishment), but this presentation revealed just how much Johnson is still trying to find his footing. Though the collection is entirely crafted in Florence using exceptional materials, it didn’t seem to have a specific voice despite his efforts to create signatures via chevron vests or intricate suede patches. He has no formal training and while it certainly is not required, the results are a prime example of someone’s attempt to make something his own using surface-level alterations rather than questioning ideas from their foundations. I could
BY MARTIN LERMA PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROLYNE TESTON
have dropped a given look into any number of other collections from the week and even the most discerning eyes would be hard pressed to find it out of place. The clothes were nice, but they were not unique. Johnson is a rare designer of color making things at the luxury level and the audience in attendance reflected his incredible social circles. A number of noted press, like The Washington Post’s Pulitzer Prize-winning Robin Givhan, and influential stylists were there, but the real showstopper was his extended family of close friends which was dressed to the nines in solidarity. I couldn’t help but notice that the models walking the runway seemed whitewashed in comparison. Johnson is in the difficult position of juggling his personal values and the pressure he must feel as one of the few black designers in fashion with his name above the door in a way that does not scare off an industry still remarkably skittish when it comes to issues of race and diversity. If Mr. Johnson can manage to capture the energy of his persona and that of his cohorts, there may be no stopping the momentum of his label.
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Fashion | Spotlight
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BRUCE PASK Bergdorf Goodman & Neiman Marcus Men’s Fashion Director Bruce Pask loves to explore fashion in it’s raw cultural surroundings and doesn’t see clothing in a vacuum as a compelling way to process fashion. He admits traveling inspires his ideas and emrbaces the idea that everything is information. So it’s no surprise that with his personal approach to his work and unique hands on experience in fashion that he was recently promoted from men’s fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman’s to pulling double duty at Neiman Marcus. I sat down with
BY SETH TRAVIS
MM: What does a fashion director do? BP:My background is in editorial so I am pretty hands on as fas as the fashion goes. I was trained as a fashion editor and a stylist. I would put shoots together, conceptualize them, execute them on set, making sure everything looks the way it is supposed to look. Which later lead itself into celebrity shoots, and then celebrity dressing and red carpets, including doing the Oscars two years in a row. So it’s pretty applied the concept of fashion for me. I think where I differ from others who have the same job title is I think my connection to the actual clothing is pretty direct, where people that rose to this from the merchant side is bit more conceptual. with other creatives? BP: We are a team here, and it’s a tight team. In magazines there was the editorial side and the business side of publishing. I grew up being trained to work hand in hand, and one side supports the other. We have a similar structure very easy relationship to manage. Being a fashion director is not about being imperious. That way isn’t going to get anyone anywhere, it is a partnership it is a collaboration. I have grown up collaborating it’s a natural state for me.
Courtesy of Bergdorf Goodman’s: WCorduroy Page: Neil Gavin
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Shoots bring many many people together cooperating to create an image is that is hopefully beautiful and successful. You have styling, photographer, photographer assistants, producers, hair and make-up, location producer; it’s so much — it’s always a team.
BP: I think when you are in a leadership role, you have to lead. Here at the store it is shared with others. When I am on set I know what my responsibilities are working with the creative director or an art director. It’s always a respectful collaboration — there is never one person on set that is saying ‘this is how it’s gonna be’, I don’t think that ever works. MM: What other projects do you touch or lead for the brand and retailer? BP: I head up the men’s component of the magazine, from conceptualizing the fashion stories and our AD looks, working with the merchant team and selecting those for the season. I also work on generating our private label knitwear so I design that. We work with factories in Italy on that. Above: Zegna Look Neil Gavin Below: Balenciaga Look: Paola Kudacki
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MM: When you attend a fashion week how do you share BP: I send out trend reports daily to the teams, along with a photo stream that I think are interesting that I want to make sure the teams are aware of. Everything is really connected even though we are one store, we are always referring each other to things, and as a fashion director I want to make sure that when I see something directional I am letting the team know. That information doesn’t mean anything unless it is shared and discussed. BP: Wider pants, get ready. The shapes are not as hard would be the one thing I would absolutely say go out and such a great option underneath sport jackets and suits and even underneath tuxedo jackets for evening is such an easy thing that is underutilized by American men. As far a seeing a lot of technical clothing from brands like Fendi, Moncler and Etro. Above: Boot Page: Robert Tardio Below: Moncler Ski Page: Jacob
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Photographer: Giuseppe Vitariello Creative Team: Good Talent Management Producer: Model: Jesse Gwin Styling: Airik Henderson Hair and makeup: Crystal Gossman
LEFT: Turtleneck: Todd Snyder Fanny pack and Joggers: 3.1 Phillip Lim RIGHT: Coat: Landlord Shirt: Calvin Klein Pants: Todd Snyder Belt: Kenneth Cole
LEFT: Jacket: Eleven Paris Top: Siki IM Jeans: Telfar RIGHT: Shirt: Calvin Klein Pants: Issey Miyake Belt: Issey Miyake 182 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
Shirt: Ralph Lauren
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Jacket: Selected Homme Track jacket: Zachary Prell
“It’s really a scent I really connect with its authentic, masculine, and LEFT: Jacket Siki IM down to earth.” Sweater Life After Denim Pants Issey Miyake Belt Issey Miyake RIGHT: Jacket Marcelo Burlon Count of Milan Turtleneck Issey Miyake, Pants Kenneth Ning Hat Bickley & Mitchell Gloves 186 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
Brown Suede Jacket: Ports 1961 White Thermal, Belt, Pants: Ralph Lauren
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Hat: Y-3, Coat: 3.1 Phillip Lim Fanny Pack: Kenneth Ning Sweater: Salvatore Ferragamo Pants: Zachary Prell, Belt: Prada
Peacoat and Turtleneck: Ports 1961 190 MANOFMETROPOLIS.COM
Plaid Jacket: Levis / Jeans, Boots, Shirt: Ralph Lauren 191
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FA S H I O N ON FILM
Oli Lacey for manofmetropolis.com
Watch ON SATURDAY a street style inspired Brendan Wixted for manofmetropolis.com
Watch Give Me Shelter by Eric Crocombe, Doglas Mott and Alison Hernon for manofmetropolis.com 193
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EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF SETH TRAVIS
FASHION DIRECTOR: SETH TRAVIS STYLE DIRECTOR AT LARGE: GREGORY WEIN GRAPHIC DESIGNER: JESSE TANG SPECIAL FEATURES: KRISTOPHER FRASER CONTRIBUTOR: MARTIN LERMA CONTRIBUTOR: MARY GUTHRIE
PHOTOGRAPHERS
BELL SOTO RICK DAY STEVE BENISTY CAROLYNE TESTON BRENDAN WIXTED AMBER MCKEE SEAN PATRICK WATTERS AYDIN ARJOMAND ERIK CARTER DOUGLAS MOTT BRENT CHUA DENNIS TEJERO CAROLYNE TESTON GIUSEPPE VITARIELLO
SPECIAL THANKS GREGORY KRESS ISAAC BERNER BRONSON VAJDA HUNTER LYON ERIC CROCOMBE TIMOTHY PRIANO VICTORIA & STUART MASCHMEIER
ARTISTIC DIRECTOR: SETH TRAVIS
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CELEBRATING 2 YEARS OF FASHION & CULTURE
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MAN ELEVATED.