MANNER beauty

MUST-HAVE SKINCARE INGREDIENTS

Laura Butlin-Policarpo looks at the must-have skincare ingredients for 2020

This year ingredients like retinol, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C have dominated skincare. It would be hard to find a brand without a product hailing one of these must-haves as the star of the show.

Whilst I doubt HA will be fading to the background anytime soon (let’s hope not as it’s the key to hydrated skin), there are some new players. Here's a look at the must-have ingredients to look out for in 2020... 

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3. It has potent anti-inflammatory qualities, which mean it’s a great gentle addition to your skincare routine if you are prone to acne. It works by regulating the skins natural oil secretion making is perfect for those with oily or combination skin. When used consistently, it can strengthen the skin barrier. This means it keeps free radicals and pollution out and moisture in – great if you struggle with a dehydrated complexion. Most skin types, even sensitive, tolerate niacinamide.

Kakadu Plum

Kakadu plum is pretty potent, it’s a fruit grown in northern Australian making it an all-natural ingredient. It’s believed to be ‘the most concentrated form of Vitamin C on earth’. Vitamin C is essential for glowing skin; it reduces the appearance of acne scarring and fades dark spots, leaving your skin brighter and more even. It helps trigger collagen production, which depletes with age, Kakadu plum can improve the skin's elasticity. As a powerful antioxidant, it’s going to protect your skin from pollution, UV damage and environmental damage. Be mindful if you use retinol or AHA/BHA’s as you skin can become sensitised or irritated when used in combination with vitamin C.

Prebiotics And Probiotics

Prebiotics are nutrients found in the gut and on the skin, they increase the production of probiotics. Probiotics are good bacteria designed to reduce inflammation, prevent premature ageing and protect against bad bacteria; essentially optimizing healing our skin. As prebiotics and probiotics are naturally found on the skin, they can help to balance our skin's pH – a lot of products are too alkaline which can lead to redness, dryness and even breakouts. The skin’s acid mantle is happiest between a pH of 4.7 and 5.7. Everything from our skincare routines to our environment can threaten this delicate balance. If you’ve ever splashed your face with water and not followed up with a serum or moisturiser- chances are you face will feel dry and tight. Although water is dehydrating, a contributing factor to this is that our household water tends to be more alkaline than our skin would like. That’s not a problem if you are making sure to rebalance your skin’s epidermis, look for probiotic infused products with a pH 5.

Bakuchiol

If like me your sensitive skin has a love-hate relationship with retinol, bakuchiol might just be the ingredient we’re been waiting for. Bakuchiol is a plant extract, which has been used in Ayurvedic medicine. It functions similarly to retinol; increasing cell turnover, stimulating collagen production as well as reducing and smoothing out signs of ageing. All without the risk of drying and irritation, side effects that can come when using retinol. Although the research is limited, it’s promising and I guarantee if you haven’t heard the hype growing around this ingredient, it won’t be long before you do.

Ceramides

Ceramides are fats, lipids to be specific, that are found in high concentration within the top layers of our skin. They make up 50% of the skin’s composition – they hold our skin cells together in a protective layer limiting visible signs of ageing and moisture loss. Although our skin contains a lot of ceramides, sun damage and age lessen our bodies’ ability to keep up production levels. As with most anti-ageing products exposure to light and air lower the effectiveness so make sure to look for well packaged, stable products.