Moments by Malalan #5 SLO/ANG

by MALALAN

UR A RSTVO WAT C H M A K I NG

INT ERV J U INT ERVIEW

IZJ EM N I EXCEPT IO N A L

Rolex Sea-Dweller

Stefano Cortecci

Ana Roš

Pomellato

Hiša Franko

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CHANEL .COM THE CHANEL MOMENT - THE J12 WATCH

S peto številko izdaje Moments by Malalan minevata dve leti, odkar ljubitelje rokodelskega mojstrstva urarjev in draguljarjev vsakih šest mesecev razveseljujemo z zgodbami, ki so zaradi svoje ekskluzivnosti na vpogled le redkim.

Pol leta je obdobje, v katerem se lahko komajda premaknemo za en sam korak, lahko pa naredimo 183 majcenih premikov in počasi, a vztrajno premagujemo neznanske razdalje.

Od novembra lani smo bili z ekipo Draguljarne Malalan aktivni na vseh mogočih področjih: prenovili smo izgled logotipa in osvežili celostno podobo naše znamke, vzporedno z izidom tokratne revije Moments by Malalan pa zaganjamo tudi povsem novo spletno stran, kjer ponosno predstavljamo celotno ponudbo Draguljarne Malalan in z vami delimo zgodbe, ki naš svet delajo tako zelo edinstven.

Od novembra lani, ko smo na več kot 150 kvadratnih metrih uspešno odprli nov center prestiža v Zagrebu, se je zgodilo marsikaj: letos bomo našo ponudbo v hrvaški prestolnici nadgradili s široko paleto časomerov najbolj prepoznavne urarske hiše na planetu: za vas bomo lep del butika v Ban centru zavili v značilne barve znamke Rolex, priložnost pa bomo izkoristili tudi za osvežitev interierja na Mestnem trgu v Ljubljani, kjer vam bomo kmalu lahko ponudili kozarec penine, predstavili novosti in svetovali ob nakupu v povsem novem, povečanem kotičku Rolex.

The fifth issue of Moments by Malalan marks the two years that have passed since we started to publish the stories that have previously only been available to a select few, due to their exclusivity; the stories that have now been, once every six months, delighting the lovers of the master craftsmanship of watch- and jewelry makers. Six months is a period in which it is possible for us to move barely for a single step — or we can make 183 small movements and, slowly but surely, conquer large distances.

Since last November, the Draguljarna Malalan team was active in all possible areas: we renovated the visual of our logo and refreshed the overall image of our brand, while we are also — parallel to this issue of Moments by Malalan — launching an entirely new website, where we proudly present the entire offer of Draguljarna Malalan and share with you the stories that make our world so very unique.

Since last November, when we successfully opened up a new center of prestige on more than 150 square meters in Zagreb, many things have happened: this year, our in-store offer in the capital of Croatia will be upgraded with a wide range of timepieces of the most recognizable watchmaking house on the planet: for you, the better part of the shop in Ban center will be wrapped up in the characteristic Rolex brand colours, and we will also take this opportunity to refresh the interior of our shop at Mestni trg in Ljubljana, where we will soon be able to offer you a glass of sparkling wine, present you with the new products and advise you with your purchase in an entirely new, enlarged Rolex corner.

Peter Malalan direktor/CEO

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DAJTE KRILA SVOJIM SANJAM.

Ročna ura Big Pilot, izvedba »Le Petit Prince«. Ref. 5009: Mali princ pove pilotu, da se mu bo prijateljsko nasmejal izmed nešteto zvezd na nočnem nebu. Pogled na to uro izzove podobna občutja, saj je popolnoma vsak detajl prava paša za oči. Ta časomer ni samo impozantnih 46 mm premera, ampak navduši tudi s klasično eleganco, ki do popolnosti poudari polnočno modro številčnico. Po drugi strani pa tehnično popolnost zagotavlja IWC-jev lastni mehanizem, kaliber 51111, z

rezervo navitja kar sedem dni. Dovolj časa, da pozabite na čas in sledite sanjam podobnemu potovanju Malega princa.

IWC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N .

Mehanski mehanizem, avtomatsko navijanje Pellaton, kaliber 51111 IWC-jeve hišne izdelave, 7-dnevna rezerva navitja pri popolnem navitju, prikaz rezerve navitja, prikaz datuma, sekundni kazalec z možnostjo zaustavitve, privita krona, safirno steklo, konveksni, protiodsevni premaz na obeh straneh, posebna črna gravura (podoba), vodoodporna do 6 barov, premer 46 mm, Santonijev pas iz telečjega usnja.

MESTNI TRG 21, 1000 LJUBLJANA TEL 00386 1 421 77 40, www.malalan.eu

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Vsebina Contents

izdajatelj publisher Malalan d.o.o.

Mestni trg 21 1000 Ljubljana Slovenija Tel.: +386 1 421 77 40 koncept in koordinacija concept and coordination Nejc Puš Tjaša Malalan oblikovanje design Matej Ramšak, ideia, designers

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besedila text Nejc Puš Tjaša Malalan Karmen Malalan Peter Malalan Blaž Abe lektoriranje proof-reading Peresce.si prevod translation SILMARIL, jezikovne storitve naslovna fotografija cover photo Nejc Puš

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MALALAN

Nakit, ki ga oblikujejo zgodbe Jewelry Shaped by Stories U R A R S T V O WAT C H M A K I N G

Rolex Sea-Dweller I N T E R VJ U I N T E RV I E W

Stefano Cortecci, Pomellato N O V O S T I N OV E LT I E S

BaselWorld & SIHH K A KO J E I Z D E L A N O H OW I T ’ S M A D E

Platina

Platinum K A KO D E L U J E H OW I T WO R K S

Minutna repeticija Minute Repeater F O T O ZG O D B A PH O T O - S T O RY

Sobo za dva, prosim!

A Room for Two, Please!

KO L U M N A C O LU M N

Kakšen je dober mehanizem?

What is a Good Movement?

I Z J E M N I E XC E P T I O N A L

Ana Roš, Hiša Franko MALALAN

Novice News

www.zenith-watches.com

LEGENDS ARE FOREVER

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MA LA LA N

Nakit, ki ga oblikujejo zgodbe Jewelry Shaped by Stories

Pa ne nujno fantazijske zgodbe, temveč tiste prave, ki jih pišejo življenja nas, ljudi iz resničnega sveta: od rojstva otroka in njegovih prvih besed, do mature ali diplome, prve zaposlitve ali večjega poslovnega uspeha, pa do poroke ter mnogih drugih spominov, ki življenje delajo ne zgolj lepo, temveč edinstveno in posebno. Zgodbe generacij so vtkane tudi v družinski nakit, ki ga zaznamuje grb rodbine, poseben dragulj ali zgolj dejstvo, da ga je dedek podaril babici, ko jo je pred desetletji zaprosil za roko.

Stories not necessarily of fiction but those real-life ones written by us, people from the real world: from the birth of a child and his or her first words, high school or university graduation, the first job or major business success, to a wedding and many other memories that make life not only beautiful but also unique and special.

Stories of successive generations are also embedded in the family jewelry, which could be designed around the family coat-of-arms, a special gemstone or simply the fact that it was given by the grandfather to the grandmother when he asked her to marry him decades ago.

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Mnoge dame se danes srečujejo z zagato, da se je v desetletjih uporabe prababičin prstan obrabil skoraj do nerazpoznavnosti, da se je eden od njenih uhanov poškodoval ali celo izgubil, da je v njihovi šatulji z nakitom zgolj obesek, ne pa tudi pripadajoča ogrlica, ali pa s tem, da jim estetika njenega niza biserov preprosto ni blizu.

Dragulji lahko zaradi tega pozabljeni samevajo leta in leta; lahko pa zlatarskim mojstrom prepustimo, da jim elegantno vdahnejo novo življenje tako, da jih obnovijo, predelajo ali pa celo uporabijo kot osnovo za nakit, ki ima kljub sodobnejšemu videzu vase vtkane spomine in vrednote vaše družine.

Izrazito obrabljeno zlatnino lahko obnovimo do njenega prvotnega sijaja ali pa njene elemente uporabimo kot osnovo za oblikovanje sodobnejšega nakita: uhan brez para lahko predelamo v obesek, obesku brez ogrlice lahko to izdelamo ali pa ga spremenimo v broško. Strgan biserni niz lahko ponovno nanizamo ali pa ga uporabimo kot osnovo za par uhanov, prstan in denimo zapestnico, ki bodo sodobni ženski služili kot vsakdanji ali pa nekoliko bolj prestižen nakit za posebne priložnosti. Ekipa oblikovalcev in zlatarskih mojstrov Draguljarne Malalan bo zgodbe vaše družine z veseljem vtkala v nakit, ki bo navduševal tudi prihodnje generacije.

Tudi če tradicijo vaše družine šele začenjate, lahko po vaših željah izdelamo nakit, ki vas bo spominjal na najlepše trenutke življenja: za darila bodočim nevestam poskrbimo z edinstvenimi zaročnimi prstani, ki jih pari dopolnijo s po meri izdelanimi

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Nowadays, many ladies find themselves facing a dilemma because decades of wear have made grandmother’s ring almost unrecognizable, one of her earrings got broken or even lost, her jewelry box includes only a pendant but not the matching chain, or simply because her grandmother’s string of pearls just isn’t her taste. Thus, it can happen that the jewels remain neglected for years and years; or, we can let master jewelers do their magic by giving them a new lease of life, either by restoration, redesign or even by using them as the basis for new pieces, which despite a contemporary appearance interweave the memories and values of your family.

Extremely tarnished gold pieces can be restored to their original shine or their elements used as the basis for the design of new jewelry: an earring missing its partner can be reshaped into a pendant, a pendant lacking a chain can get one or can be remade into a brooch.

A torn string of pearls can be restrung or used as the basis for a pair of earrings, a ring, and a bracelet that will serve the contemporary woman as everyday or slightly more prestigious jewelry for special occasions. The team of designers and jewelers at Draguljarna Malalan will be happy to weave your family stories into jewelry that will bring happiness to future generations.

If you’re only just starting your own family tradition, we will be pleased to make you jewelry that will remind you of the best moments of your life: brides-to-be can be presented with unique engagement rings, which are later supplemented by custom made

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poročnimi prstani in skladnim nakitom za oba: ženina in nevesto.

Za takšen namen priskrbimo dragulje, ki povsem ustrezajo vašim željam, ali pa celo uporabimo drage kamne iz obstoječe družinske zbirke. Ob rojstvu otroka izdelamo ogrlice ali zapestnice, v katerih se prepletajo črke otrokovega imena, ki ga vgraviramo tudi v po meri izdelane manšetne gumbe, ali pa po vaših željah izdelamo uhane in broške.

S kombinacijo obvladovanja najsodobnejše tehnologije in starodavnih rokodelskih tehnik izdelovanja nakita pa sodelujemo pri zgodbah o uspehu tudi v poslovnem svetu: mnoga podjetja ob pomembnejših prelomnicah ali dosežkih naše izdelke podarjajo zaposlenim ali poslovnim partnerjem: z gravuro personaliziramo vrhunska pisala ali dno zapestne ure, po naročilu izdelamo kravatne igle, manšetne gumbe, etuije za vizitke in mnogo drugega.

Ponosni smo, da vaše sanje kujemo v večnost že skoraj sedem desetletij: od tega 25 let v Ljubljani, od leta 2016 pa tudi v Zagrebu.

Naša vrhunska ekipa oblikovalcev in zlatarskih mojstrov vašo idejo z navdušenjem utelesi najprej v obliki skice, nato pa unikatnega in neponovljivega dragulja z zaščitnim znakom Draguljarne Malalan: tako jamčimo za oblikovno edinstvenost, material etičnega porekla, predvsem pa za najvišjo kakovost izdelave.

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wedding rings and matching jewelry for the couple: the bride and the groom. For this purpose, we acquire precious stones completely matching your wishes or even use the precious stones from the existing family collection. When a child is born, we design necklaces or bracelets intertwining the letters of the baby’s name, or the name can be engraved on custom-made cuff links, or even earrings and brooches.

The combination of mastery of the latest technology and ancient craftsmanship techniques of jewelry-making enables us to participate in success stories in the business world: many companies decide to give our pieces to their employees or business partners upon special occasions or achievements: by engraving we personalize fine pens or the case-backs of watches, we design custom-made tiepins, cuff links, business card cases and much more.

We are proud to have been forging your dreams for eternity for nearly seven decades: for 25 years in Ljubljana, and since 2016 also in Zagreb. Our master team of designers and jewelers will be delighted to embody your idea first in the shape of a sketch, followed by a unique and one-of-a-kind piece of jewelry under the trademark of Draguljarna Malalan: this guarantees the uniqueness of design, material of ethical origin, and above all the highest quality of craftsmanship.

3 D AYS A U TO M AT I C ACC I A I O - 4 5 M M ( R E F. 6 74 )

PA N E R A I . C O M

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UR AR STVO WATC H MA K IN G

FOTO GR A F IJ E PH OTO GR APH S RO LEX

Rolex Sea-Dweller

ČASOMER POTAPLJAŠKE ELITE A WATCH FOR THE DIVING ELITE Neznano, ki se skriva v globinah morja, ljudi fascinira že od nekdaj: najprej so morski svet raziskovali predvsem ribiči s sorazmerno kratkimi potopi na dah, kar pa seveda ni bilo dovolj. Ideja, da bi človek lahko dihal pod vodo, je stara toliko kot tista, da bi lahko letel.

Prvi znani zapisi o tem, da je človek pod vodo preživel več kot “en vdih”, segajo v čas Aleksandra Velikega, ki naj bi med obleganjem otoka Tir na poti v Mezopotamijo za dihanje pod vodo kot potapljaški zvon uporabil kar lesen sod. Dobri dve tisočletji pozneje, v štiridesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja, je Jacques Cousteau razvil napravo, s katero je dihanje pod vodo postalo skorajda tako preprosto kot tisto na površju.

The unknown, hidden in the depths of the sea, has been fascinating people forever: fishermen were the first to explore the underwater world through relatively short free dives which, naturally, could not suffice.

The idea that a person could breathe under water is as old as the one about man being able to fly. The first known written documents about a person spending more than ‘a breath’ under water go back to the times of Alexander the Great, who supposedly used a wooden barren as a diving bell for breathing under water, which happened during the siege of the island of Tyre, on his way to Mesopotamia. Over two millennia later, in the 1940s, Jacques Cousteau invented a rebreather: a device which makes breathing underwater almost as simple as on dry land.

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Vodotesnost, zanesljivost in odlična berljivost

Waterproofness, reliability and excellent legibility

Pravila igre so pod vodo nekoliko drugačna kot v vsakdanjem življenju: v jeklenki ima potapljač na voljo omejeno količino zraka, pri vračanju na površino pa mora zaradi razlike v tlaku na pravih globinah opraviti tudi ustrezno dolge dekompresijske postanke. Zdi se, da je v globinah čas prav zares sveta vladar: trajanje potopa je odvisno od zaloge kisika v jeklenki, glede na čas, ki ga potapljač preživi na določeni globini, pa se izračuna tudi čas, ki ga potrebuje za dekompresijo.

Pri Rolexu, pionirju na področju vodotesnih časomerov, so si pred dobrega pol stoletja zadali nalogo, da potapljačem vseh vrst ponudijo zanesljive, dobro berljive, predvsem pa točne zapestne ure.

Glavni atribut vsakega potapljaškega časomera je vodotesnost, ki so jo pri Rolexu s privijačenim dnom ure in privito navijalno krono zagotovili že leta 1926, ko so predstavili prvo vodotesno zapestno uro: Oyster. S prvim potapljaškim časomerom Submariner, vodotesnim do 100 metrov globine, so šli slaba tri desetletja pozneje še korak dlje: z dvojnim sistemom tesnjenja “Twinlock” so zagotovili vodotesnost, tudi če navijalna krona ni bila privita v pravi poziciji. Z močnim kontrastom med črno številčnico in belimi, luminiscenčnimi kazalci ter indikatorji za ure so omogočili odlično berljivost v temi, z vrtljivo luneto pa poenostavili merjenje časa potopa in se tako zaradi odsotnosti gumbov kronografa povsem izognili možnosti vdora vode v ohišje.

Vrtljiva luneta je torej med potapljanjem nadomestila funkcijo kronografa, njena uporaba pa je zelo preprosta: pred potopom jo zasukamo tako, da se indikator začetka potopa, trikotnik, poravna s pozicijo minutnega kazalca, nato pa pod vodo z lunete preprosto odčitamo koliko časa je minilo od začetka potopa. Za potapljače je

The rules of the game underwater are somewhat different than in everyday life: a limited amount of air is available for the diver in the diving cylinder, while during the return to the surface the diver has to make appropriately long decompression stops at the right depths due to the difference in pressure. It seems that in the depths of the sea time truly is the ruler of the world: the length of the dive depends on the air supply in the diving cylinder, while the time needed for decompression is also calculated according to the time the diver spends at a certain depth. Over half a century ago, Rolex, the pioneer of waterproof watches, set itself the task of providing divers of all types with reliable, legible, and above all, accurate wrist watches.

The main attribute of every divers’ watch is its waterproofness, which Rolex ensured with a screw-down case back and winding crown in 1926, when they introduced the first waterproof wristwatch the Oyster. About three decades later, the first diver’s timepiece the Submariner, waterproof to 100 meters, went a step further: its double system of waterproofness Twinlock, kept the watch dry even if the winding crown was not screwed down in the proper position. The strong contrast between the black dial and white, luminescent hands and hour indicators enabled excellent legibility in the dark, while the rotatable bezel simplified the timing of the dive’s length and thus completely prevented the possibility of water running into the case since there were no pushers on the case.

The rotatable bezel thus substituted the function of the chronograph during the dive and its use is very simple: before the dive the bezel should be turned until the triangle on the graduation, which indicates the beginning of the dive, is opposite the minute hand, then

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varnost na prvem mestu in nenameren zasuk lunete v smeri urinega kazalca bi lahko pomenil, da bi pod vodo ostali predolgo in izčrpali zalogo kisika, zato jo je mogoče sukati zgolj v nasprotni smeri in tako ob spodrsljaju kvečjemu skrajšati čas potopa.

simply read how much time has passed since the beginning of the dive from the bezel underwater. Divers put safety first and an unintentional turn of the bezel in the clockwise direction could mean staying underwater too long and using up the supply of oxygen — therefore, it can only be turned counter-clockwise and thus only shorten the dive time.

Nove, rekordne globine Sprva največ enourne potope, ki niso presegali globine 60 metrov, so z razvojem saturacijskih tehnik v šestdesetih začeli znatno podaljševati in dosegati nove, rekordne globine: najprej leta 1966 z globino 160 metrov, nato 300 metrov in leta 1988 celo 534 metrov pod morsko gladino.

Doseganje ekstremnih globin za morske raziskovalce ni bilo dovolj: iskali so načine, kako bi podaljšali čas pod morsko gladino in

New, record depths What were at first one-hour dives that did not exceed a depth of 60 meters, started to be prolonged with the development of saturation techniques in the 1960s. Thus new, record depths were reached: first 160 meters in 1966, then 300 meters , and even 534 meters in 1988.

Reaching extreme depths was never enough for marine explorers: they searched for ways to prolong the time spent underwater and moments 21

tako razvili podvodna bivališča, v katerih so “prebivalci morja” lahko preživeli več dni, tednov ali celo mesecev. Tekom enega odmevnejših projektov so štirje ameriški akvanavti v podvodnem habitatu Tektite, 15 metrov pod vodno gladino, preživeli kar 58 dni. Na suhem in v vodi so jih spremljali tudi leta 1967 razviti in izjemno odporni Rolexovi časomeri s pomenljivim imenom “Sea-Dweller”, ki so bili zaradi skoraj dvomesečnega trajanja podvodnega programa za razliko od Submarinerja opremljeni tudi s funkcijo datuma, vodotesni pa so bili do 610 metrov.

thus developed underwater dwellings in which Sea-Dwellers could spend several days, weeks, or even months. During one of the most ambitious projects, four American aquanauts spent 58 days in an underwater habitat Tektite, 15 meters under the sea. On land and under the sea they were accompanied by ultra-resistant Rolex watches called the Sea-Dweller, which were developed in 1967. Due to the length of the underwater project, which lasted almost two months, unlike the Submariner these watches were also equipped with a date function and were waterproof to 610 meters.

Dekompresijska bolezen zapestne ure

The decompression sickness of a watch

Bivanje pod morsko gladino je pomenilo predvsem to, da so raziskovalci več tednov živeli v okolju z občutno višjim zračnim tlakom, kot bi na površini, zaradi tega pa so dihali tudi drugačno mešanico plinov, kot bi jih sicer. Zaradi hitrejše desaturacije je bil v zraku povečan delež helija, ki ima izredno majhne molekule. Te so prek tesnil počasi prodirale v ohišje zapestnih ur in tako izenačile razliko med ambientalnim tlakom in tistim v notranjosti ure.

Ko so se raziskovalci vračali na površje, se je torej zunanji tlak zmanjševal in pritisk v ohišje ujetega helija je pogosto potisnil steklo iz zapestne ure na podoben način, kot se to zgodi v steklenici penine.

Da bi se temu izognili, so Rolexovi inženirji v ohišje zapestne ure Sea-Dweller vgradili poseben ventil, ki povečan notranji pritisk sprosti tako, da plinu omogoči izhod, a obenem ne dovoli vdora vode.

Iznajdbo so ob predstavitvi ure patentirali in časomer Rolex SeaDweller je postal izjemnega pomena za nova globokomorska odkritja ter razvoj vse daljših saturacijskih potopov.

For the researchers living underwater primarily meant living for several weeks in an environment with significantly higher air pressure than on dry land, which meant breathing a different mixture of gases than usually. Due to faster desaturation, the air contained a higher proportion of helium, the molecules of which are extremely small. These slowly penetrated the watch cases through the gaskets and thus balanced the difference between the ambient pressure and that within the watch.

As the researchers returned to surface, the external pressure decreased and the pressure of helium caught inside the watch built up and the watch crystal could pop out like a champagne cork from a bottle. To avoid this, Rolex’s engineers installed a special valve inside the case of the Sea-Dweller watch, which allows the gas to escape without allowing the water to penetrate the interior. The invention was patented when the watch was presented to the world and the Rolex SeaDweller timepiece became invaluable for the new deep-sea discoveries and the development of ever longer saturation dives.

Enostavno prilagajanje na potapljaško obleko

Simple and quick adaptation to the diving suit

Pri Rolexu so poleg natančnosti in vodotesnosti poskrbeli tudi za enostavnost uporabe zapestne ure. Potapljači se pred nizkimi temperaturami v globinah oceana zaščitijo z debelimi izolativnimi

In addition to precision and waterproofness, Rolex made sure the watch was easy to use. Divers need to protect themselves from low temperatures in the depths of the oceans by wearing thick insulating suits, over

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oblekami, preko katerih namestijo svoje potapljaške časomere. Da bi se izognili zamudnemu prilagajanju dolžine pasu, so predstavili razširitveni člen Fliplock, ki je omogočal hitro spremembo in nošenje tako direktno na zapestju kot tudi prek potapljaške obleke.

Vseh petdeset let, kolikor jih je minilo od predstavitve prvega modela Sea-Dweller, je Rolex ta izjemno odporen časomer nenehno izpopolnjeval: ko so potapljači začeli dosegati globine preko pol kilometra, so vodotesnost iz 610 metrov nadgradili na 1220 metrov, kar za 520 metrov presega globino, ki jo zmore prenesti človeško telo, in tako zagotovili, da Sea-Dweller izboljšav ni potreboval cela štiri desetletja. Kljub vsemu so leta 2008 z zapestno uro Sea-Dweller Deepsea vodotesnost skorajda potrojili, saj njeno ohišje zdrži pritisk kar štirih ton, kar je enakovredno pritisku na globini 3900 metrov.

which they place their divers’ watches. To avoid the time-consuming adjustment of the bracelet, they introduced the Fliplock extension system which enabled a quick change between bracelet lengths so that the diver could wear the watch directly on the wrist or over the diving suit.

During the fifty years which have passed since the first Sea-Dweller model was presented, Rolex has continued to perfect this exceptional timepiece: when divers started reaching depths over half a kilometer, its waterproofness was upgraded from 610 to 1,220 meters, which exceeds the physiological threshold for human beings by 520 meters.

This ensured that the Sea-Dweller did not require improvements for over four decades. Nevertheless, in 2008 the Sea-Dweller Deepsea wristwatch almost tripled the possible waterproofness since its case can withstand the pressure of four tons, equaling the pressure at a depth of 3,900 meters.

Nov, izboljšan Sea-Dweller

New, enhanced Sea-Dweller

Legendo potapljaške elite so ob njeni petdesetletnici povsem prenovili in jo na letošnjem baselskem sejmu predstavili z večjim ohišjem, širšo vrtljivo luneto ter pasom, debelejšim safirnim kristalom in širšo številčnico. Prvič so na model Sea-Dweller nad okence z datumom postavili povečevalno steklo Cyclops, kar prej zaradi tehničnih omejitev ni bilo mogoče, s tem pa zagotovili večjo berljivost datuma. Na številčnici je ime modela tokrat na črni osnovi zapisano z rdečo bravo, s čimer so se poklonili Sea-Dwellerjevi pionirski vlogi pri razvoju globokomorskega raziskovanja. Precej novega je tudi pod številčnico: Sea-Dweller je prvi Rolexov profesionalni časomer, ki je opremljen z najnovejšim avtomatskim mehanskim kalibrom 3235 in je tako bistveno pridobil na področjih natančnosti, rezerve navitja, odpornosti na udarce in magnetizem ter priročnosti in zanesljivosti.

The legend of the diving elite was totally renewed upon the occasion of its fiftieth anniversary and at this year’s Basel Fair it was introduced with a bigger case, wider rotatable bezel and bracelet, a thicker sapphire crystal, and wider dial. For the first time for the model Sea-Dweller the Cyclops lens was placed over the date, which was previously not possible due to technical constraints, and this substantially improves legibility of the date. The name of the model is now inscribed in red on the black dial which is an homage to the Sea-Dweller’s pioneering role in the development of deep see exploration. There is a significant amount of news concealed by the dial: the Sea-Dweller is Rolex’s first professional watch to be equipped with the latest automatic mechanical caliber 3235 and has thus significantly benefited in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks, and magnetism, convenience and reliability.

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26 moments

I NTE RV JU I NT ERV IEW

Stefano Cortecci, Pomellato

Potujem, poslušam in se pogovarjam z ljudmi I Travel, Listen and Talk to People

There is work that we call a job; and Obstaja delo, ki mu rečemo služba, in then there is work that we call a lifeobstaja delo, ki mu pravimo življenjski style. Stefano Cortecci’s responsibility slog. Stefano Cortecci je pri italijanski at the Italian jewelry house Pomellato draguljarski hiši Pomellato odgovoren za to, da potuje po vsem svetu v zasle- is to hunt for new stones all over the dovanju dragih kamnov, doma pa skrbi, world and to make sure that the company always has enough gemstones da je na zalogi vedno dovolj kamnov za in stock to create precious jewels. His izdelavo prestižnih draguljev. Njegovo job is gemstone-hunting: he spends delo je lov za dragulji: večji del svojega most of his time travelling all around časa posveti potovanjem po celotnem the globe, with the epicentres of his planetu, epicentri njegovih postankov pa so v veliki večini, in to ni naključje, stops mostly (and not coincidentally) located close to the deposits of various locirani blizu nahajališč raznovrstnih precious and semi-precious gemstones. dragih in poldragih kamnov. Če je Whether his work is merely a job, or if it njegovo delo le služba ali življenjski slog, smo izvedeli na izjemno varo- is a lifestyle, we learned at an extremely secure location, which they call the vani lokaciji, ki ji pri Pomellatu pravijo “gem caveau” in skriva nešteto surovih “gem caveau” at Pomellato; it hides innumerable rough gemstones of all kamnov vseh mogočih oblik, barv in possible shapes, colours and sizes. velikosti.

Kako vas je gemologija pravzaprav začela zanimati?

Moj oče je bil profesor na univerzi, poučeval je geokemijo in ker sta oba starša ogromno delala, sem v mladosti veliko časa preživel v njegovem laboratoriju. Tako sem praktično odrasel v poslu, od očeta pa sem srkal znanje tako, kot se recimo dogaja pri procesu osmoze. Sedaj približno deset dni vsak mesec potujem po vsem svetu: v Južno Ameriko, Afriko, Daljni in Bližnji vzhod, ter še in še … v tem času sem po celotnem planetu stkal močno mrežo povezav, ki mi pomagajo pri iskanju novih, zanimivih draguljev za kolekcije nakita Pomellato.

How did gemmology catch your interest in the first place?

My father was a professor at university, he taught geochemistry, and since both parents worked a lot, I spent a lot of time in his lab when I was young. This way, I practically grew up in the business; I absorbed knowledge from my father, just like it happens, say, in the process of osmosis. Now, for about 10 days every month, I travel around the world: to South America, Africa, Far East, Middle East and so on. I’ve created a huge network of connections around the globe in the past years, with the people who help me in my

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Kako danes izgleda vaš lov na kamne?

Veliko potujem, govorim z različnimi ljudmi: rudarji, brusilci ... nekdo določen material brusi bolje kot ostali, drugi mojstrsko obvlada delo s prozornimi kamni, tretji je specialist za safirje, rubine, smaragde …

Ne potujem z misijo, da bi našel specifičen kamen, to bi mi predstavljalo miselno oviro, saj moram biti odprt predvsem za nepričakovane najdbe. Včasih v Italijo pošljem manjšo količino nenavadnih kamnov, da oblikovalski oddelek oceni, če so za njih zanimivi, spet drugič naletim na izjemno najdbo čisto po naključju. Tako se je zgodilo pred leti na sejmu v Tucsonu v Arizoni, kjer sem med precej slabo ponudbo kamnov našel nov, zanimiv brus, ki smo ga uporabili pri naši kolekciji Arabesque. Če imaš oči odprte, lahko vedno najdeš nekaj novega, zanimivega. No, pomaga tudi, da ne sediš zgolj v pisarni, ampak se odpraviš v svet!

Nam zaupate nekaj več o sobi, v kateri se trenutno nahajamo?

Gre za prostor, kjer hranimo našo strateško zalogo surovih kamnov. Pred nekaj več kot desetletjem smo se zaradi zelo hitre rasti soočali s težavo, da naši dobavitelji enostavno niso uspeli dovolj hitro zagotavljati zadostnih količin kamnov. Projekt smo začeli tako, da smo ustvarili večjo zalogo različnih variacij kvarca, takrat najbolj prodajanega minerala: ametiste, citrine, kvarc limonine barve. Količina kamnov je skozi leta zrasla do te mere, da lahko danes našim dobaviteljem, če nimajo ustrezne zaloge, tudi mi pomagamo iz težav. Poanta je v tem, da kamne hranimo bodisi za posebne kolekcije, bodisi za čase, ko situacija na trgu ni najboljša.

Pri svojem delu imate ogromno odgovornost: katere lastnosti naredijo dobrega strokovnjaka za drage kamne?

Radovednost, absolutno. Ko si radoveden, poslušaš in tako izveš mnogo stvari, ki jih sicer ne bi. Prepričan sem, da če poslušaš, potem si radoveden, to pa pomeni, da si inteligenten. Pomembna lastnost je tudi, da ne izstopaš preveč, da nisi bahač in da si sposoben komunicirati z ljudmi v kaotičnih razmerah odprte tržnice s kamni. Ko se usedeš za mizo, te pogosto obkroži 20, 30 ljudi, ki predte odlagajo vse mogoče kamne vseh mogočih vrednosti. V takšni situaciji moraš biti sposoben obdržati hladno kri in predvsem biti dober pogajalec.

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search for new, interesting gemstones for the Pomellato jewelry collections.

How does your hunt for the stones look like nowadays?

I travel a lot, I talk to different people: miners, cutters… someone can cut a certain material better than others, another is an expert for working with transparent stones, someone else is a specialist for sapphires, rubies, emeralds… I do not travel with a specific stone in mind; this could be a limitation in my mind, and I need to be especially open to unexpected finds. Sometimes I ship a smaller quantity of unusual stones to Italy, for the Creative Team to evaluate if they are interesting enough for them, and sometimes I stumble upon an extraordinary find by pure coincidence. This happened years ago, during a show in Arizona, where I found a new, interesting cut among quite poor-quality stones, which we then used for our Arabesque collection. If you keep your eyes open, you can always find something new, something interesting. Well, it also helps if you don’t merely stay in the office behind your desk, but you get yourself out there!

Can you tell us a bit more about this room we’re in?

This is the space where we store our strategic stock of rough gemstones. A bit over ten years ago, the company was growing so fast that we experienced some problems because our suppliers simply were not able to produce enough stones fast enough. So, we started this project by first accumulating a larger stock of different variations of quartz, which was our best-selling material at the time: amethyst, citrine and lemon quartz. The quantity of stones grew so much over the years that, should our suppliers find themselves in trouble and unable to acquire enough material, we now have the ability to also support them. The point is to either store the stones for special collections or to store them for occasions when the market situation is not the best.

Your work comes with a great responsibility: what are the qualities that make a good gem master?

Curiosity, absolutely. When you are curious, you listen and learn many things that you wouldn’t otherwise. I am sure that if one listens, that means they are curious, and that stands for intelligence. It is also important to keep a low profile, with no bragging, and

Približno deset dni vsak mesec potujem po vsem svetu: v Južno Ameriko, Afriko, Daljni in Bližnji vzhod ter še in še …

For about 10 days every month, I travel around the world: to South America, Africa, Far East, Middle East and so on.

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Za proizvodnjo ne potrebujemo kilogramov, temveÄ? nekaj ton draguljev.

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We do not need kilograms, but tons of gems in our production.

Tudi tako velika imena kot je Pomellato lahko najdejo dragulje na odprti tržnici?

Seveda! Obožujem takšen način dela, a me pogosto zaradi prej omenjenih situacij tudi spravlja ob živce. Tole je denimo mineral granat, ki spreminja bravo glede na svetlobo, ki sije nanj: na soncu je zelen, pod svetlobo žarnice pa se zeleni pridruži še odtenek vijoličaste. No, našel sem ga na Tajskem, zelo blizu Kambodže in sprva nisem bil povsem prepričan, za kaj gre. Pozneje smo spreminjanje barve granata uporabili v kolekciji Tango, ki je bila izjemno uspešna in to je odličen primer, da tudi velika imena lahko najdejo zelo nenavadne drage kamne prav na odprti tržnici.

Je takšen način dela tipičen v draguljarstvu?

Ne, mislim, da je takšen “lov za dragulji” specifičen za Pomellato: prav ta maloštevilnost surovin in majhna količina zaloge je počasi, a zagotovo spremenila poldrage kamne v drage, včasih celi superdrage kamne. Neprestano moramo biti na preži, če se pojavi kakšna nova variacija minerala, ali pa če napreduje tehnologija in se razvijejo nove možnosti brušenja surovih kamnov v prej nevidene oblike. Pomembno je tudi, da pravilno oceniš količino določenega minerala, ki je na voljo. Če denimo predstaviš novo kolekcijo, nato pa ne moreš zagotoviti draguljev enake barve, se to lahko izkaže za velikansko polomijo. Takrat ti ne pomagajo niti polni žepi denarja: če je rudnik zaprt, je zaprt in glede tega ne moreš storiti prav nič.

Kakšna pa je količina kamnov, ki jo potrebujete za redno proizvodnjo ene kolekcije?

To je predvsem odvisno od kolekcije. Pri modelu Nudo, na primer, je »gol« kamen popoln protagonist in tako je zaradi inovativnega dizajna ena tretjina kamna skrita v ohišju in torej očem popolnoma nevidna … to pa pomeni, da je kamen dejansko veliko večji kot se zdi na pogled. Da zatorej ne poslujemo z izgubo, potrebujem surove kamne pravih dimenzij, oblik in barve.

Le tako se namreč izogneš nepotrebnim odpadkom. Če se vrnemo nazaj k vašemu vprašanju: za proizvodnjo ne potrebujemo kilogramov, temveč nekaj ton draguljev.

Seveda gre za okvirno številko, veliko je odvisno od željenega končnega rezultata in seveda od načina priprave in obdelave surovih kosov.

to be able to communicate with people in chaotic circumstances of an open stone market. Very often, when you sit down at a table, you get surrounded by 20, 30 people and they start placing stones of different values in front of you. In such a situation, you must remain calm and above all, be a good negotiator.

So even the big names like Pomellato can find jewels at the open market?

Of course! I love this way of work, but it also drives me crazy due to the situations like the one I mentioned before. For an example: this is the garnet mineral that changes the colour with different light exposure: it is green under sunlight, and indoors, the green is joined by a hue of purple. I found it in Thailand, very close to Cambodia, and at first I wasn’t entirely sure what it was.

Later, we used the colour change garnet in our Tango collection that was very successful, and this is a great example of how even the big names can find very unusual gems right in the open market.

Is this the typical way of doing business for jewelers?

No, I think this “jewelry hunt” is Pomellatospecific: The paucity of raw materials and the scarcity of supply has steadily turned semi-precious into the new precious, sometimes even super-precious. We always need to pay attention if there is some new variation of a mineral available, or if there is some technological progress and they develop new means of raw stone cutting into never-before-seen forms. It is also important to correctly estimate the amount of a certain material available. For example, if you present a new collection, but then cannot provide gems of the same colour, it can turn out to be a disaster. It does not matter if your pockets are full of money: if the mine is closed, it is closed and there is nothing you can do about it.

What is the amount of stones that you need for a regular production of a single collection?

It really depends on the collection. For example with Nudo, the “naked” stone is the sheer protagonist and because of the innovative design, one third of the gem is set in the collet and not visible to the eye…. this means that the actual stone is far bigger that the visible part. Therefore, in order to avoid a loss, I need raw stones that have the right

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Na kakšen način določate oblike za brušenje dragih kamnov?

Vsak dragulj, ki ga vgradimo v naš nakit, je ustvarjen po našem načrtu in tudi brušen ekskluzivno za potrebe naše hiše. Pri nekaterih oblikah gre denimo za naključen razpored facetiranih ploskev, vendar je tudi to “naključje” na nek način načrtovano: ponaredke tako že na daleč ločiš od originalov.

Ker gre za zelo specifične oblike in predvsem zelo prefinjen način vdelave kamnov v nakit, so tolerance dimenzij končnih izdelkov tako majhne, da na svetu skorajda ni podjetja, ki bi zadostilo našim zahtevam.

Kaj pa različne tehnike za manipulacijo barve kamnov? Se jih pri Pomellatu poslužujete?

Minerale kvarca pogosto segrevamo, da povečamo intenzivnost barve. Gre zgolj za visoko temperaturo, medtem ko kristale topaza za bravo London Blue izpostavimo radioaktivnemu sevanju. Brez strahu, gre za popolnoma varno in certificirano metodo: zaradi nekoliko intenzivnejše barve ne bi nikoli ogrozili zdravja dam, ki nosijo naš nakit! Prav vsako tehniko in posamezen kamen preveri in odobri zunanji laboratorij, kar zagotavlja najvišjo možno kakovost.

Nakit tako zagotovo v nobenem pogledu ni nevaren vašemu zdravju. Pomembno je tudi, da so po obdelavi kamni stabilni in da s časom ne začnejo izgubljati barve.

Oblikovno je nakit Pomellato večen, kako pa lahko poskrbimo, da ostane brezčasno lep tudi v damski skrinjici z nakitom?

Sem in tja v popravilo dobimo prstane, ki so po desetletju uporabe pogosto deformirani ali na določenih mestih opraskani in udarjeni. Sam to vidim kot posebno, čustveno vrednost nakita, ki ga dame nosijo vsak dan.

Za to je tudi ustvarjen in dejstvo, da je nakit nošen pogosto, je za nas velikega pomena!

Kakorkoli, nekaj pozornosti je nakitu vseeno potrebno posvetiti, predvsem kamnom.

Ti so kljub svoji trdoti lahko zelo občutljivi na direktne udarce — ob močni sili lahko celo počijo ali pa se izmaknejo iz ležišča.

Deli iz zlata se zaradi nošenja, recimo, več prstanov skupaj pogosto opraskajo, kar pa je po mojem mnenju posebna, unikatna patina vsakega dragulja.

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dimensions, shapes and colour. This is the only way to avoid creating too much waste.

If we go back to your question: we do not need kilograms, but tons of gems in our production.

In what way do you decide on the right shapes to cut the precious stones?

Each stone that is set in our jewelry has been created according to our design and cut exclusively for the needs of our house. With some shapes, it is a coincidental order of facets, but even this “coincidence” is planned in a way: you can separate the fakes from the originals at a first glance. Because the shapes are very specific, and the manner of setting is above all really refined, the tolerances of end products are so small that there is almost no company in the world that could meet our demands.

How about different treatments to manipulate colours of the stones? Do you use them at Pomellato?

We often use heat treatment with quartz minerals to magnify the colour intensity.

It’s merely high temperature, while we use irradiation with topaz crystals to achieve London Blue colour. No worries, it is a completely safe and certified method; we would never cause harm to the ladies who wear our jewelry, just to get a more intense colour!

Each of the techniques and individual stones are inspected and certified by an outside laboratory which ensures the highest quality. It is also important that the stones are stable after the treatment and that they do not start to lose colour with time.

The design of the Pomellato jewelry is forever, but how can we make sure to keep it timelessly beautiful also in the ladies’ jewelry boxes?

Sometimes, we receive some rings to repair; after a decades of wear, they are often deformed or scratched in certain places, or have dents. I see that as the special, emotional value of jewelry that has been worn by ladies on daily basis. It is what it is made for, and the fact that it was worn often means a lot to us! In any case, jewelry still needs some attention, especially the stones. No matter how hard they are, they can be very sensitive to direct hits — with enough force, they can even crack or become loose. The gold parts can become scratched when, say, you wear more rings together, which I think is the special, unique patina of every jewel.

Deli iz zlata se zaradi nošenja, recimo, več prstanov skupaj pogosto opraskajo, kar pa je po mojem mnenju posebna, unikatna patina vsakega dragulja.

The gold parts can become scratched when, say, you wear more rings together, which I think is the special, unique patina of every jewel.

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Novosti Novelties

moments 35

ROL E X

Oyster Sea-Dweller — 43 mm

ME HAN I ZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Kaliber 3235 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem, Superlative Chronometer. Rezerva navitja: približno 70 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 4 Hz.

Črna.

Mechanical, self-winding, calibre 3235, Manufacture Rolex, Superlative Chronometer.

Power reserve: approximately 70 hours.

Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz.

PA S BR ACELET

OHIŠJE CASE

Jeklo 904L, privito dno ure in navijalna krona, na praske odporno safirno steklo s povečevalno lečo Cyclops preko datuma, vodotesno do 1.220 metrov.

904L steel, screw-down case back and winding crown, scratch-resistant sapphire with magnifying Cyclops lens over the date, waterproof to 1,220 metres.

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Black.

Oyster s ploščatimi trodelnimi členi in zložljivim Oysterlock zapiralom.

Oyster with flat three-piece links and folding Oysterlock safety clasp.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralni kazalci za ure, minute in sekunde.

Prikaz datuma v okencu z možnostjo hitrega nastavljanja, sekundni kazalec z možnostjo zaustavitve za natančno nastavitev časa.

Centre hour, minute, and seconds hands.

Instantaneous date in apertures, unrestricted rapid-setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting.

ROL E X

Cosmograph Daytona — 40 mm M EHA NIZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Kaliber 4130 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem in mehanskim kronografom, Superlative Chronometer. Rezerva navitja: približno 72 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 4 Hz.

V barvi šampanjca in s črnimi detajli.

Mechanical, self-winding, calibre 4130, mechanical chronograph, Manufacture Rolex, Superlative Chronometer. Power reserve: approximately 72 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz. OHIŠJ E CASE

Oyster iz rumenega zlata, črna keramična Cerachrom luneta iz enega kosa z vgravirano tahimetrsko lestvico, privita krona s Triplock trojnim sistemom vodotesnosti, vodoodporno do 100 metrov, proti praskam odporno safirno steklo.

Oyster in yellow gold, polished finish, Black monobloc Cerachrom bezel in ceramic with an engraved tachymetric scale, screw-down crown with Triplock triple waterproofness system, water-resistant to 100 meters, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass.

Champagne with black details.

PA S BR ACELET

Oysterflex.

Oysterflex.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralni urni in minutni kazalec, male sekunde nad številko 6, 30-minutni mali števec ob številki 3 in mali 12-urni števec ob številki 9, sekundni kazalec z možnostjo zaustavitve za natančno nastavitev časa.

Centre hour and minute hands, small seconds hand at 6 o’clock Chronograph, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock. Stop-seconds for precise time setting.

RO L E X

Sky-Dweller — 42 mm

M EHA NIZEM MOVEMENT

PA S STR AP

Kaliber 9001 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem, Superlative Chronometer. Rezerva navitja: približno 72 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 4 Hz.

Oyster s ploščatimi trodelnimi členi in zložljivim Oysterlock zapiralom.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre 9001, Manufacture Rolex, Superlative Chronometer.

Power reserve: approximately 72 hours.

Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz. O HIŠJ E CASE

Jeklo in belo zlato, privito dno ure in navijalna krona, nazobčana luneta iz belega zlata, na praske odporno safirno steklo, vodotesno do 100 metrov.

Steel and white gold, screw-down case back and winding crown, fluted bezel in white gold, scratchresistant sapphire, waterproof to 100 metres. ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Modra.

Oyster with flat three-piece links and folding Oysterlock safety clasp.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralni kazalci za ure, minute in sekunde. 24-urni prikaz časa na disku, prikaz drugega časovnega pasu, letni koledar z možnostjo hitrega nastavljanja, okence pri oznaki za tretjo uro. Prikaz meseca v 12 okencih na obodu številčnice. Sekundni kazalec z možnostjo zaustavitve za natančno nastavitev časa.

Centre hour, minute, and seconds hands.

24-hour display on disc, second time zone, instantaneous annual calendar at 3 o’clock with unrestricted rapid-setting, month display via 12 apertures around the circumference of the dial. Stop-seconds for precise time setting.

Blue.

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AUDE MARS P I G U E T

Royal Oak Chronograph — 41 mm ME HAN I ZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Kaliber 2385 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem in mehanskim kronografom. Rezerva navitja: približno 40 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 3 Hz.

V srebrni barvi z vzorcem “Grande Tapisserie”.

Silver-toned with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre 2385, mechanical chronograph, Manufacture Audemars Piguet. Power reserve: approximately 40 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 3 Hz.

Iz nerjevečega jekla, zapiralo z napisom AP.

OHIŠJE CASE

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Nerjaveče jeklo, privita navijalna krona, vodoodporno do 50 metrov, proti praskam odporno safirno steklo.

Kronograf, ure, minute, male sekunde, datum.

PA S BR ACELET

Stainless steel with AP folding clasp.

Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, date.

Stainless steel, screw-down crown, water-resistant to 50 meters, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass.

AU D E M ARS P I G U E T

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph — 44 mm ME HAN IZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Kaliber 3126/3840 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem in mehanskim kronografom. Rezerva navitja: približno 50 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 3 Hz.

Siva z vzorcem “Méga Tapisserie”.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre 3126/3840, mechanical chronograph, Manufacture Audemars Piguet. Power reserve: approximately 50 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 3 Hz.

PA S STR AP

Rubber, gray with titan pin buckle.

OHIŠJE CASE

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Titan, črna keramična luneta, gumbi kronografa in privita navijalna krona, vodoodporno do 100 metrov, proti praskam odporno safirno steklo.

Kronograf, ure, minute, male sekunde, datum.

Titanium, black ceramic bezel, pushpieces and screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 100 metres, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass.

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Grey with Grande “Méga Tapisserie” pattern.

Gumijast, siv, s titansko zaponko.

Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, date.

B RE I T L I NG

Navitimer Rattrapante Gold — 45 mm M EHA NIZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Kaliber B03 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem in mehanskim kronografom rattrapante. Rezerva navitja: približno 70 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 4 Hz.

V rjavi barvi z vgrajenim drsnim računalom.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre B03, mechanical chronograph, Manufacture Breitling. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz.

Brown with integrated sliding rule.

PA S STR AP

Krokodilje usnje.

Crocodile leather.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

OHIŠJ E CASE

18-karatno rožnato zlato, vodotesno do 3 bare, proti praskam odporno safirno steklo nad številčnico in na dnu ure.

Kronograf, ure, minute, male sekunde, datum.

Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, date.

18-karat red gold, water-resistant to 3 bar, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass above dial and on caseback.

B RE I T L I NG

Colt Skyracer — 45 mm

M EHA NIZEM MOVEMENT

PA S STR AP

Mehanizem Breitling 74, Superquartz™.

Gumijast Skyracer.

Superquartz™ Breitling 74.

Rubber Skyracer.

O HIŠJ E CASE

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Breitlight®, privita krona, vodotesno do 100 m, proti praskam odporno safirno steklo.

Ure, minute, centralne sekunde, datum.

Breitlight®, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 100 m, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass.

Hours, minutes, central seconds, date.

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Črna.

Black.

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BUL G A RI

Octo Finissimo Automatic — 40 mm ME HAN IZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Kaliber BVL 138 Finissimo lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem. Najtanjši avtomatski mehanizem na svetu: 2,23 mm. Rezerva navitja: približno 60 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 3 Hz.

Peskan titan.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre BVL 138 Finissimo, Manufacture Bulgari. Thinnest automatic movement in the world: 2.23 mm. Power reserve: approximately 60 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 3 Hz. OHIŠJE CASE

Peskan titan, debelina ohišja 5,15 mm, vodotesno do 30 m, proti praskam odporno safirno steklo nad številčnico in na dnu ure.

Sandblasted titanium.

PA S BR ACELET

Iz peskanega titana ali črnega aligatorjevega usnja.

Sandblasted titanium or black alligator leather.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Ure, minute, male sekunde.

Hours, minutes, small seconds.

Sandblasted titanium, case thickness: 5.15 mm, water-resistant to 30 m, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass above dial and on caseback.

BU L G A RI

Serpenti — 27 mm

ME HAN IZEM MOVEMENT

PA S STR AP

Za Bulgari prilagojen B033 kvarčni mehanizem.

Dvakrat ovije zapestje, več barvnih variacij v usnju Karung ali telečjem usnju, zlahka zamenjljiv, opremljen z zaponko.

Bulgari personalized B033 quartz movement.

OHIŠJE CASE

Jeklo ali rožnato zlato, briljanti na luneti odvisno od verzije, vodotesno do 50 m.

Steel or pink gold, brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel according to the versions, water-resistant to 50 m. ŠTE V ILČNICA DIAL

Različne barvne variacije, črna lakirana, biserna matica ali giljoširana v obliki sončnih žarkov.

Various colour variations, black lacquered, mother-of-pearl, or sunburst guilloché depending on the versions.

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Double wrap-around strap, different colour variations in Karung leather or calfskin, easily interchangeable and fitted with a pin buckle.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Ure in minute.

Hours and minutes.

I WC SCHA F F H AU S E N

Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph — 43 mm M EHA NIZEM MOVEMENT

PA S STR AP

Mehanski kronograf, kaliber 89630 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem. Rezerva navitja: 68 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 4 Hz.

Aligatorjevo usnje.

Mechanical, self-winding chronograph movement 89630, Manufacture IWC. Power reserve: 68 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

OHIŠJ E CASE

Rožnato zlato, na praske odporno safirno steklo nad številčnico in na dnu ure, vodotesno do 3 bare.

Red gold, scratch-resistant sapphire, waterproof to 3 bar.

Alligator leather.

Centralni kazalci za ure in minute, male sekunde. Večni koledar s prikazom datuma, dneva, leta s štirimi števkami in luninih men, kronograf s števci za sekunde, minute in ure.

Centre hour and minute hands, small seconds. Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits, and perpetual moon phase, chronograph with second, minute, and hour counters.

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Posrebrena.

Silver-plated.

I W C SCHA F F H AU S EN

Da Vinci Automatic Moonphase — 36 mm M EHA NIZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Mehanski kaliber. Rezerva navitja: 42 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 4 Hz.

Posrebrena.

Mechanical movement. Power reserve: 42 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz. O HIŠJ E CASE

Rožnato zlato, na praske odporno safirno steklo, vodotesno do 3 bare.

Red gold, scratch-resistant sapphire, waterproof to 3 bar.

Silver-plated.

PA S STR AP

Aligatorjevo usnje.

Alligator leather.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralni kazalci za ure, minute in sekunde, lunine mene.

Centre hour, minute and second hands, moonphase display.

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50 LE T GA RA NCI J E

PANE RA I

50-Y E A R WA RRA NTY

Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days — 49 mm

ME HAN I ZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Kaliber P.3001/C lastne izdelave z ročnim navijanjem. Rezerva navitja: 3 dni. Frekvenca nemirke: 4 Hz.

Črna.

Mechanical, manual winding caliber P.3001/C, Manufacture Panerai. Power reserve: 3 days. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz. OHIŠJE CASE

Carbotech, na praske odporno safirno steklo na vrhu in dnu ure, vodotesno do 100 metrov.

Carbotech, scratch-resistant sapphire on top and caseback, waterproof to 100 metres.

Black.

PA S BR ACELET

Telečje usnje Ponte Vecchio v črni in modri.

Calf leather Ponte Vecchio black, blue.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralna kazalca za ure in minute, male sekunde.

Centre hour and minute hands, small seconds.

PANE RE I

Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days — 42 mm ME HAN IZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Kaliber P.9010 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem. Rezerva navitja: 3 dni. Frekvenca nemirke: 4 Hz.

Črna.

Mechanical, self-winding caliber P.9010, Manufacture Panerai. Power reserve: 3 days. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz. OHIŠJE CASE

Jeklo AISI 316L, na praske odporno safirno steklo, vodotesno do 300 metrov.

AISI 316L steel, scratch-resistant sapphire glass, waterproof to 300 metres.

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Black.

PA S STR AP

Kavčuk.

Caoutchouc.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralna kazalca za ure in minute, male sekunde, datum.

Centre hour and minute hands, small seconds, date.

PRIMA COLLECTION

FOPE.COM

moments 43

ZEN I T H

Defy El Primero 21 — 44 mm

ME HAN I ZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

El Primero 9004 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem in kronografom, ki meri 1/100 sekunde natančno. Rezerva navitja: približno 50 ur, ločen boben za kronograf, 50 min. Frekvenca nemirke: 5 Hz, ločen mehanizem kronografa 50 Hz.

Odprta z dvema barvnima števcema.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre 3235, Manufacture Rolex, Superlative Chronometer.

Power reserve: approximately 50 hours, separated chronograph barrel, 50 min power reserve. Frequency of balance wheel: 5 Hz, separate chronograph escapement at 50 Hz. OHIŠJE CASE

Titan, na praske odporno safirno steklo nad številčnico in na dnu ure, vodotesno do 100 metrov.

Openworked with two different-coloured counters.

PA S STR AP

Črn gumijast s prevleko iz aligatorjevega usnja.

Black rubber with alligator leather coating.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralna kazalca za ure in minute, male sekunde in kronograf z natančnostjo 1/100 sekunde.

Centre hour and minute hands, small seconds and a 1/100th of a second chronograph.

Titanium, scratch-resistant sapphire glass on top and caseback, waterproof to 100 metres.

Z E NIT H

Pilot Type 20 Extra Special — 40 mm ME HAN I ZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Elite 679 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem. Rezerva navitja: približno 50 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 4 Hz.

Siva z zrnastim finišem.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre Elite 679, Manufacture Zenith. Power reserve: approximately 50 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz.

PA S STR AP

OHI ŠJE CASE

Starano jeklo, na praske odporno safirno steklo, vodotesno do 100 metrov.

Aged steel, scratch-resistant sapphire glass, waterproof to 100 metres.

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Grey with grained finish.

Oljast pas iz nubuka z zaščitno gumijasto podlogo.

Oily nubuck leather strap with protective rubber lining.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralni kazalci za ure, minute in sekunde.

Centre hour, minute, and second hands.

T UD OR

Heritage Black Bay Chrono — 41 mm M EHA NIZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Kaliber MT5813 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem in mehanskim kronografom. Rezerva navitja: približno 70 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 4 Hz.

Črna.

Black.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre MT5813, Manufacture Tudor with mechanical chronograph. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz.

Stainless steel or leather.

OHIŠJ E CASE

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Nerjaveče jeklo, privito dno ure in navijalna krona, na praske odporno safirno steklo, vodotesno do 200 metrov.

Centralni kazalci za ure in minute, male sekunde, kronograf, prikaz datuma v okencu.

Stainless steel, screw-down case back and winding crown, scratch-resistant sapphire glass, waterproof to 200 metres.

PA S STR AP

Nerjaveče jeklo ali usnje.

Centre hour and minute hands, small seconds, chronograph, date in aperture.

T UD OR

Black Bay S&G — 41 mm

MEHA NIZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Kaliber MT5612 lastne izdelave z avtomatskim navijanjem. Rezerva navitja: približno 70 ur. Frekvenca nemirke: 4 Hz.

Črna.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre MT5612, Manufacture Tudor. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz. OHIŠJ E CASE

Kombinacija nerjavečega jekla in rumenega zlata, privito dno ure in navijalna krona, na praske odporno safirno steklo, vodotesno do 200 metrov.

Combination of stainless steel and yellow gold, screw-down case back and winding crown, scratchresistant sapphire glass, waterproof to 200 metres.

Black.

PA S STR AP

Iz nerjavečega jekla in zlata ali usnja, vedno z dodatnim pasom iz platna.

Stainless steel and gold or leather, comes with an additional fabric strap.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Centralni kazalci za ure, minute in sekunde, prikaz datuma v okencu.

Centre hour, minute and second hands, date in aperture.

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BEL L & RO SS

BR 03-94 RS17 — 42 mm

ME HAN I ZEM MOVEMENT

PA S STR AP

Kaliber BR-Cal.301 z avtomatskim navijanjem in mehanskim kronografom.

Pletena črna guma in ultra odporna črna sintetična tkanina.

Mechanical, self-winding calibre BR-Cal.301 with mechanical chronograph.

Woven black rubber and ultraresilient black synthetic fabric.

OHIŠJE CASE

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Mat črna keramika, na praske odporno safirno steklo, vodotesno do 100 metrov.

Centralni kazalci za ure in minute, male sekunde, kronograf do 50 min, prikaz datuma v okencu.

Matt black ceramic, scratch-resistant sapphire glass, waterproof to 100 metres.

Centre hour and minute hands, small seconds, chronograph up to 50 min, date in aperture.

ŠTE V ILČ NICA DIAL

Karbonska vlakna.

Carbon fibre.

CHA N EL

Mademoiselle J12 — 38 mm

ME HAN I ZEM MOVEMENT

ŠTEVILČ NICA DIAL

Mehanski z avtomatskim navijanjem.

Črna lakirana s silhueto gospodične Chanel, ki z rokami kaže ure in minute.

Mechanical, self-winding.

OHIŠJE CASE

Black lacquer and silhouette of Mademoiselle Chanel, her hands indicating hours and minutes.

Črna keramika in jeklo, na praske odporno safirno steklo, en diamant na dnu ure, vodotesno do 200 metrov.

Črna keramika in jeklo.

Black ceramic and steel, scratchresistant sapphire glass, one diamond on caseback, waterproof to 200 metres.

PA S STR AP

Black ceramic and steel.

FUNKC IJ E FUNCTIONS

Ure in minute.

Hours and minutes.

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moments 47

MARCO BI CE G O

Paradise Aquamarine Letos se Paradise vrača s svežim novim videzom, v katerem prepoznavamo enobarvno množico vodeno modrih tonov. Mlečna akvamarin barva daje igrivi kolekciji izjemno poletni pridih, nosimo pa jo lahko kot izbruh barve na dnevnih oblačilih ali za umiritev elegantne večerne obleke.

This year Paradise comes back with a fresh new look, declined in a monochromatic multitude of aqua blue tones. The milky aquamarine gives a very summery touch to the playful collection, that can be worn as a pop of color on a daily outfit or downplay an elegant evening dress.

POM E L L ATO

M’ama Non M’ama V živahni igri mešanja in kombiniranja različnih elementov M’ama non m’ama barve lahko izrazijo popolnoma nov svet čustev, ki odseva resnično enkraten in spremenljiv stil, navdihnjen z modo in občutkom.

In a lively game of stack and tell, mixing and matching different M’ama non m’ama colors can express a whole new world of emotions, reflecting a truly unique and changeable style inspired by fashion and feeling.

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D OD O

Charms Uniseks kosi nakita z močno identiteto in enkratno dušo za pripovedovanje zgodb, v katerih vsako bitje, simbol in črka nosi poseben pomen ali občutek ljubezni, sreče, prijateljstva ter svobode.

Unisex pieces of jewellery, with a strong identity and unique story-telling soul, in which every creature, symbol and letter holds a special meaning or a sense of love, luck, friendship and freedom.

FOPE

Prima Kolekcija Prima debitira popolnoma novo zankasto verigo Flex’it, ki je simbol tehnološke izjemnosti: prefinjena in lahka, a neverjetno odporna in sposobna zakriti ducate drobnih vzmeti iz 18-karatnega zlata, zaradi katerih so zapestnice in prstani gibljivi.

Na voljo je veliko različic v zlatu z diamantnimi detajli, ki bodo zagotovo razveselile ljubitelje te znamke, cenovni razpon pa bo to novo kolekcijo približal širši in mlajši publiki.

The Prima collection debuts a brand new Flex’it mesh chain and it is a token of the technological excellence: fine and light, and yet incredibly resistant and able to conceal dozens of 18 carat gold springs which make the bracelets and the rings flexible.

There are many variants available with gold and diamond details which are bound to make the brand fans happy, while the price point will make this new collection attractive to a wider and younger public.

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PASQUA L E B RUN I

Ton Jolç Zahvaljujoč svoji svetlosti, kamen iz Ton Jolì kolekcije pridobiva mehkejše facete prepoznavnega Bon Tin reza hiše Pasquale Bruni.

Skrivnostnost in karakter oniksa ter rdeča strast karneola se združijo z rožnatim zlatom in diamanti bele ter šampanjske barve.

The stone of the Ton Jolì collection, by merit of its lightness, attains softer facets of Pasquale Bruni’s distinctive Bon Ton cut. The mystery and character of onyx, the red passion of cornelian convene with pink gold and white and champagne diamonds.

MON T E G RA P PA

Game of Thrones Montegrappina kolekcija pisalnih inštrumentov predstavlja vsako od štirih ključnih družin: Stark, Baratheon, Lannister in Targaryen. Vsaka družina vključuje nalivno pero in dve izvedbi kemičnega svinčnika z različnimi konicami. Zaželenost pisal povečuje slog zbirateljstva, saj je vsako pisalo individualizirano za družino, ki jo predstavlja, preko simbolov in emblemov, značilnih za določen klan.

Montegrappa’s collection of writing instruments represents each of the four key families: Stark, Baratheon, Lannister, and Targaryen. Each is available as a fountain pen, rollerball and a ballpoint pen. The desirability of the pens is enhanced by a collective style, each pen individualised for the family it represents through sigils and emblems representative of the clan.

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MARCOBICEGO.COM

moments 51

V preteklosti naj bi Zemljo več kot 200 milijonov let »bombardiral« meteoritski dež z visoko vsebnostjo zlata in platine. Odloženi material se je s procesom konvekcije zlil z drugimi materiali v Zemljini skorji in se pozneje pojavil v takrat novonastalih kontinentih.

In the past, for over 200 million years, Earth is supposed to have been “bombarded” by a meteor shower with a high gold and platinum content. In the process of convection, the deposited material fused with other materials in the Earth’s crust and later appeared in the then newly formed continents.

52 moments

Leta 2015 je mimo Zemlje na razdalji približno 2,4 milijona kilometrov letel asteroid 2011 UW158, ki v jedru nosi preko 90 ton platine in drugih plemenitih kovin. »Vrednost« te leteče zakladnice so znanstveniki ocenili na okrog 5 milijard evrov.

In 2015, the 2011 UW158 asteroid passed by Earth at a distance of approximately 2.4 million kilometers; it carried over 90 tons of platinum and other precious metals in its core. The scientists estimated the “value” of this flying treasure trove to be at around 5 billion euros.

KA KO J E IZD ELA N O

ILU STR A CIJ E ILLUST R AT IONS

HOW IT’S MADE

TJ A Š A M A LA LA N

Platina Platinum Tiste najbolj prestižne stvari si svoj status zaslužijo, ker jih je bodisi zelo težko najti, bodisi imajo zares posebne fizikalne lastnosti. Platina je v Zemljini skorji 30-krat manj pogosta kot zlato: če bi z vsem v zgodovini izkopanim zlatom lahko napolnili približno tri olimpijske bazene, bi z vso kadarkoli izkopano platino komajda napolnili nekaj centimetrov enega samega bazena! Nekateri znanstveni viri celo trdijo, da je platino na Zemljo »odvrgel« meteorski dež, danes pa je prisotna v mnogih industrijskih procesih, v različnih zdravilih, priljubljena pa je tudi kot surovina za izdelovanje nakita.

Those really prestigious things earn their status either because they are hard to be found, or because they have really special physical properties. In the Earth’s crust, platinum is 30 times less common than gold: if we were to fill about three Olympic swimming pools with all the gold that has ever beewn excavated throughout the history, the entire amount of platinum that has ever been excavated would barely fill a few centimeters of a single pool! Some scientific sources even claim that platinum was “thrown” onto Earth by a meteor shower, and today it is present in many industrial processes, in different medications, and it is popular also as a raw material in jewelry making.

moments 53

Platina je kemični element s simbolom Pt in atomskim številom 78.

Liter platine tehta 21,47 kg.

A liter of platinum weighs 21.47 kg.

Platinum is a chemical element with the symbol of Pt and an atomic number of 78.

Je voljna in nodularna, lahko jo tanjšamo v folijo ali raztegujemo v žico. Je sivo-bele barve in ima edinstven lesk.

It is soft and nodular; we can attenuate it into foil or stretch it into a wire. It is gray-white in color and has a unique shine.

Platino pogosto uporabljamo za izdelovanje poročnih in zaročnih prstanov, ker ne spreminja barve, je bolj vzdržljiva, manj pogosta in gostejša od zlata.

Za izdelovanje nakita se običajno uporablja 95 % zlitina platine, medtem ko se zlat nakit večinoma izdeluje iz zlitine, v kateri je 75 % zlata.

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Platinum is often used in the making of wedding and engagement rings, because it does not change color, it is more durable and it is rarer and denser than gold.

In jewelry making, an alloy made of 95% platinum is commonly used, while gold jewelry is mostly made from an alloy which contains 75% of gold.

Uporabljamo jo za senzorje kisika v izpušnih sistemih, za vžigalne svečke, v prisilno polnjenih motorjih, za potrebe zobne medicine in protetike, za električne kontakte in površine, kjer je zahtevana visoka temperaturna odpornost.

It is used in catalytic converters, spark plugs, in the forced induction engines, in dental medicine and in prosthetics, in electrical contacts and surfaces where high temperature resistance is required.

Ko glasbeniki prodajo milijon kopij svojega albuma, dobijo zanj nagrado v obliki platinaste plošče.

Leta 1844 je italijanski kemik Michele Peyrone po naključju odkril, da platina preprečuje razvoj tumorjev v telesu. Po več kot stoletju raziskav so leta 1971 začeli zdravljenje z zdravili, ki vsebujejo platino.

When musicians sell a million copies of their album, they get the prize in the shape of a platinum record.

In 1844, an Italian chemist, Michele Peyron, accidentally discovered that platinum prevents the development of tumors in the body. After more than a century of research, in 1971, they started treatments with medications that contained platinum.

Tališče platine je pri 1.772 °C, vrelišče pa pri 3.825 °C. The melting point of platinum is at 1,772 °C and its boiling point is at 3,825 °C.

Ker drage kamne ščiti bolje od drugih kovin, so v platino vdelani najbolj prestižni diamanti na svetu: Hope, Jonker in Koh-I-Noor.

Because it protects gemstones better than other metals, the most prestigious diamonds in the world are embedded in platinum: Hope, Jonker and Koh-I-Noor.

Največja nahajališča platine najdemo v Južni Afriki, manjša pa v Rusiji in Južni Ameriki.

The largest deposits of platinum are found in South Africa, and smaller ones in Russia and South America.

Letno izkopljejo približno 133 ton te redke kovine, kar je 94 % manj kot letni izkop zlata. Za eno unčo čiste platine je potrebno izkopati približno 10 ton rude, ki jo nato predelujejo približno pet mesecev.

Approximately 133 tons of this rare metal are excavated every year, which is 94% less than the yearly yield of gold mining.

Approximately 10 tons of ore must be mined to produce one pure ounce of platinum, which is then processed for about 5 months.

Da je enota teže, kilogram, enaka po vsem svetu, uporabljamo mednarodni prototip kilograma, ki je zlitina platine in iridija ter tehta natančno en kilogram.

Leta 1880 so izdelali okrog 40 takšnih vzorcev in jih razposlali po celem svetu kot standardno enoto teže.

In order for the weight unit, kilogram, to be the same all over the world, we use the international prototype of a kilogram, which is an alloy of platinum and iridium, and weighs exactly one kilogram. In 1880, they produced about 40 such samples and sent them worldwide to serve as standard weight units.

Zlitina platine in kobalta se uporablja za izdelavo močnih magnetov.

An alloy of platinum and cobalt is used to make strong magnets.

Platina, iridij, osmij, paladij, rutenij in rodij spadajo v isto skupino kovin in imajo podobne lastnosti. Skupaj se uporabljajo v zlitinah, iz katerih proizvajajo izjemno vzdržljiva orodja.

Platinum, iridium, osmium, palladium, ruthenium and rhodium belong to the same group of metals and have similar properties. Together, they are used in alloys used to produce extremely durable tools. moments 55

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KA KO D ELU J E

HOW IT WOR K S

Minutna repeticija Minute repeater

Danes si težko predstavljamo življenje v času, ko ponoči podatka o tem, koliko je ura, zaradi teme ni bilo mogoče dobiti že s preprostim dotikom mobilnega telefona ali digitalne budilke ob postelji: tekom noči so edini čas sporočali cerkveni zvonovi z igranjem značilne melodije vsakih petnajst minut in vsako polno uro. Urarski mojstri so to izjemno, a zelo kompleksno rešitev uspeli vgraditi najprej v stenske, potem žepne in na koncu tudi v zapestne ure. Da lastnikov sprva precej redkih ur s to funkcijo ne bi nenehno oglašanje ure začelo motiti, so razvili zanimivo rešitev, s katero lahko informacijo o času dobimo “na poziv” in jo poimenovali repeticija.

Today, we can hardly imagine life in a time when at night, due to it being dark, there was no option of telling the time just by touching a cell phone or a digital alarm clock by the bed: during the night, the passage of time was told only by the church bells that chimed the characteristic melodies once every fifteen minutes or once every full hour. The master watchmakers managed to build in this simple, but very complex solution, first into wall clocks, then into pocket watches and finally also into wristwatches. So that the owners of the watches with this—at first— quite rare complication would not be bothered by the continuous chiming of the watch, they developed an interesting solution that enables us to “call up” the information about the time, and they called it ‘a repeater’. moments 57

Dovolj glasen in predvsem čist zvok je eden od najpomembnejših dejavnikov, katerim mora zadostiti kakovostna ura z minutno repeticijo. Urarski mojstri se pri konstruiranju in sestavljanju takšnih mehanizmov soočajo z izjemno delikatnimi komponentami, pomanjkanjem prostora znotraj ohišja zapestne ure ter z izredno majhno količino energije, ki je na voljo za udarjanje kladivc. Velik vpliv na zvok ima tudi material ohišja: titan ali jeklo denimo zaradi manjše gostote “prepuščata” več zvoka kot zlato ali platina, mnogi pa zvok ojačajo z različnimi odprtinami v ohišju.

Mehanizem minutne repeticije aktiviramo tako, da potisnemo drsni gumb, s katerim navijemo majceno vzmet, ki ima ravno dovolj energije, da kladivca enkrat zaigrajo melodijo, ki nam pove koliko je ura. V primeru, da gumba ne potisnemo dovolj, se udarjanje kladivc ne sproži, ker bi lahko zaradi pomanjkanja energije komplikacija zaigrala le polovico potrebnega niza udarcev. Polno navita vzmet torej aktivira mehanizem, ki glede na pozicijo več ročic in zobatih kolesc določi trenutni čas in ga prevede v serijo udarcev kladiv po dveh gongih: uglašenih žicah, ki tečeta tik ob obodu ohišja.

Vsak od gongov je uglašen na drug zven in tako denimo pri tipični minutni repeticiji zven gonga z nižjim tonom pomeni eno polno uro, zaporedje udarcev v višjem in nato nižjem tonu pomeni četrtino ure, vsak zven v višjem tonu pa našteje posamezne minute znotraj petnajstminutnega intervala. Če torej komplikacijo aktiviramo, ko je ura 4:55, se bo ta oglasila najprej s štirimi zveni nižjega tona, tremi zaporedji visok-nizek ton in desetimi udarci po gongu z višjim tonom.

Da gonga zazvenita s točno pravim tonom, ju je potrebno natančno uglasiti: urarji tako pogosto več dni ali celo tednov 58 moments

A sound that is loud and — above all else — clear enough, is one of the most important demands that a quality watch with a minute repeater must meet. While constructing and assembling such mechanisms, the master watchmakers deal with extremely delicate components, a lack of space within the wristwatch case and an extremely small amount of power that is available for the strikes of the tiny hammers. The case material also greatly influences the sound: for example, titanium or steel, due to a lower density, “pass” more sound than gold or platinum, and many amplify the sound with various openings in the case.

The minute repeater mechanism is activated by pressing the sliding lever, which winds up a tiny spring that contains just enough power for the hammers to chime the time-telling melody once. If we do not put enough pressure on the sliding lever, the hammer strikes are not activated, since the complication could only chime a half of the necessary strike set due to a lack of power. A fully wound spring thus activates a mechanism, which in accordance with the position of several levers and geared wheels determines the current time and translates it into a series of hammer strikes upon two gongs: tuned wires that are set just at the rim of the case.

Each of the gongs is tuned to a different sound and so, for example, with a typical minute repeater, a chime of the gong with a lower tone stands for one full hour, a sequence of chimes in a higher and then lower tone stands for a quarter of an hour, and every chime in a higher tone counts the individual minutes within the fifteen-minute interval.

If we activate the complication when the time is 4:55, it will first chime four chimes of the lower tone, then three chimes of high-low tone sequences and ten chimes on the higher-toned gong.

So that the gongs chime in exactly the right tone, they need to be precisely tuned: the watchmakers often adjust the length of the gong

prilagajajo dolžino gonga, da se ta ob udarcu kladiva oglasi s popolnim zvenom. Ker sta gonga pritrjena le na eni točki, morajo urarski mojstri zagotoviti ustrezen prostor, da se gong, medtem ko zaradi udarca vibrira, ne dotakne drugih komponent ali celo ohišja: s tem bi namreč prekinili zven. Velikega pomena je tudi razmerje med težo posameznega kladiva in trdoto vzmeti, ki mora zagotavljati ravno prav močan udarec na posamezni gong.

Minutna repeticija je pri urah še danes ena od najmanj pogostih funkcij: izdelujejo jo le najbolj izkušeni urarji, pogosto pa je del mehanizmov s klasično “trojno komplikacijo”, ki pod eno številčnico združuje še kronograf in večni koledar. Kljub vsemu je tako za navdušence kot tudi za zbiratelje to ena od najbolj prestižnih in občudovanja vrednih komplikacij, ki jo le stežka zasenčijo druge karakteristike časomera.

for days or even weeks, so that when the hammer strikes it, it sounds the perfect chime. Because the gongs are attached only on one point, the master watchmakers must ensure that there is appropriate space, so that when the gongs vibrate due to the strikes, they do not touch other components or even the case: that would break the chime. What is also tremendously important is the ratio between the weight of an individual hammer and the firmness of the string, which must provide for the precisely strong enough strike to an individual gong.

Today, the watch minute repeater remains one of the least common complications: it is made only by the most experienced watchmakers, and often it is a part of mechanisms with the classic “triple complication”, which under a single dial entail also the chronograph and the perpetual calendar. Even so, this is one of the most prestigious and admirable complications both for the enthusiasts and for the collectors, which can hardly be overshadowed by other characteristics of a timepiece.

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Predani smo klasiki. A zavračamo status quo. Ohranjamo najboljše iz preteklosti. Najboljše prakse izdelovanja ur, najboljše dizajne. A premikamo meje novega. Rojeni z namenom. Na terenu preizkušeno do ekstremov. Za tiste, ki so pripravljeni na vse. Tiste, ki se soočajo s svojimi strahovi. Tiste, ki se vsak dan znova zgradijo. TUDOR je rojen za izzive. #BornToDare

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#BornToDare

STYLE

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Sobo za dva, prosim.

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A Room for two, please.

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Ko mi je skrivnostno naročil, naj se pripravim za hiter pobeg iz mestnega direndaja, sem izvedela le, da bo toplo. Nekaj poletnih oblačil, lahek plašč za vsak slučaj, kot okras pa, brez pomisleka, biseri! No, izkazalo se je, da želi preizkusiti svoj novi avtomobil in seveda sva proti slovenski obali drvela po tisoč in enem ovinku, kar me je noro zabavalo. Zapeljal je pred hotel, ki sva ga običajno občudovala le z barke, ko sva potovala proti hrvaški Dalmaciji, in vedela sem, da bo naslednjih nekaj dni več kot čudovitih. Izbral je razkošno suito v novem delu hotelske zgradbe s teraso, pogledom na morje in brezhibno urejen vrt ter me razvajal z mnogimi malimi pozornostmi, kot zna le on.

When he mysteriously told me to get ready for a quick escape from the city noise, I learned only that the weather will be warm. Some summer clothes, a light coat just in case, and as a decoration, of course, with no second thought, pearls! Well, it turned out that he wanted to take his new car on a test drive, and of course we sped off towards the Slovenian coast through a thousand and one left and right turn, which was crazy fun. He stopped in front of the hotel which we usually only admired from the yacht while we were on our way to the Croatian Dalmatia, and I knew that the following few days will be more than wonderful. He chose a luxurious suite in the new part of the hotel building, with a terrace, sea view and a flawlessly arranged garden, and spoiled me with many little details, the way only he can.

F OTO G R AFI JE PHOT O G R A P H S

MODEL A MO DE L S

Kempinski Palace Portorož

NE J C PUŠ

PET RA ŠKA BA R ,

Portorož, Slovenija

BOJAN RA D U S IN OVIĆ

+386 (0)5 692 7000 reservations.portoroz@kempinski.com

U M E T NI CA LI Č E NJA M AK E- U P A RT IST

ST YL ING

M A RT I NA B OR ŠČAK

L EA URBAS ,

www.kempinski.com/portoroz

TJAŠA MA LA LA N

O B L A ČI LA C LOT HE S

SONČNA O ČA LA SU N GLASSE S

Porsche Center Ljubljana

XYZ PR E MI UM FASHI ON STORE

OPT IKA MA LA LA N

Ljubljana, Slovenija +386 (0)1 582 5193 +386 (0)1 582 5198 info@porsche.si www.porsche.si

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On: zapestna ura Bulgari Octo Chronograph v jeklu, prstan Malalan iz kolekcije Spomini, zapestnica Fope.

Him: Bulgari Octo Chronograph wristwatch in steel, Malalan ring from the Memories collection, Fope bracelet.

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Ona: zapestna ura Bulgari Serpenti v jeklu in zlatu, biserni nizi in uhani Mikimoto, prstani Malalan iz kolekcij Spomini in Romantika.

Her: Bulgari Serpenti wristwatch in steel and gold, Mikimoto pearl strands and earrings, Malalan rings from Memories and Romance collections.

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Ona: zapestna ura Bulgari Serpenti v Ä?rni keramiki in zlatu, uhani in ogrlica Malalan iz kolekcije NeskonÄ?nost, prstani Malalan Spomini.

Her: Bulgari Serpenti wristwatch in black ceramic and gold, Malalan earrings and necklace from the Infinity collection, Malalan Memories rings.

On: zapestna ura Breitling Navitimer, prstan Malalan iz kolekcije Spomini, zapestnica Fope.

Him: Breitling Navitimer wristwatch, Malalan ring from the Memories collection, Fope bracelet.

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Ona: zapestna ura IWC Portofino Mid-Size, uhani in ogrlica Marco Bicego Paradise z barvnimi kamni in biseri, prstani MimĂ­.

Her: IWC Portofino Mid-Size wristwatch, Marco Bicego Paradise earrings and necklace with colored stones and pearls, MimĂ­ rings.

On: zapestna ura Zenith Pilot, prstani Malalan Spomini, zapestnica Fope.

Him: Zenith Pilot wristwatch, Malalan Memories rings, Fope bracelet.

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KOLUMNA

COLUMN

Kakšen je dober mehanizem?

What is a good movement like?

P IŠ E WO R DS B LA Ž A B E

Mehanizem predstavlja srce vsakega časomera in igra celo vlogo njegovega motorja: enako kot pri avtomobilu. V avtomobilski industriji je sodelovanje znamk znotraj koncernov dokaj pogosto: tako denimo Renault zagotavlja osnovo za določene pogonske agregate znamke Mercedes, Maseratijevi bencinski motorji so med drugim tudi plod Ferrarijeve tehnike in še in še.

Kljub vsemu ta vozila ohranjajo svoj izjemno prestižen status z nadgradnjo osnove, ki jo priskrbi druga znamka, z edinstveno opremo interierja, lastno estetiko zunanjosti in seveda: povsem svojimi voznimi specifikami.

V urarstvu je situacija podobna in pogosto se med poznavalci razvije debata, kateri in kakšen tip mehanizma je boljši: tisti, ki ga podjetje razvije in izdela samo – hišni mehanizem, ali tisti, ki ga priskrbi zunanje podjetje in ga je potrebno »le« nadgraditi do njegove končne podobe.

Redki se zavedajo, da je švicarska urarska industrija skozi zgodovino zrasla na zadružnem pristopu k izgradnji kompleksnih mehanizmov: v odročni dolini Vallée de Joux so po vaseh delovala združenja, ki so urne mehanizme prodajala urarskim butikom v mestih, posamezne komponente pa odkupovala od kmetov, ki so izdelovali le zobnike, vzmeti, kazalce ali številčnice.

Danes je faktor prestiža takšen način dela potisnil v ozadje, izdelovanje lastnih mehanizmov pa je med znamkami v močnem porastu.

Mnogim, tudi največjim urarskim hišam je v

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The movement is the heart of each and every timepiece, and can even play the part of its engine, just as in a car. In the automotive industry, collaboration between brands occurs fairly frequently: a good example of such collaboration is Renault which makes the basis for certain drive units for Mercedes, while Maserati’s petrol engines are the result of Ferrari’s technique and so on. Nevertheless, these vehicles retain their extremely prestigious status by upgrading the basics provided by another brand, through unique interior design, their own exterior aesthetics, and above all: completely unique driving specifics.

Watchmaking is not much different, and often we hear debate among connoisseurs about which type of movement is the best: the one developed and manufactured by a specific company — the in-house mechanism, or the one provided by another company and which is ‘only’ upgraded to its final image.

Not many realise that through history, the Swiss watchmaking industry has grown on the back of a collaborative approach to constructing complex mechanisms: in the villages of the remote valley of Vallée de Joux, associations sold watch mechanisms to watchmaking boutiques in the towns, while they purchased individual components from peasants who were making pinions, springs, hands, or dials. Nowadays, the factor of prestige has marginalised this type of work, while the production of in-house mechanisms has been growing.

TUD OR BL A CK BAY ST EEL Z MEHANIZM OM MT561 2 L A ST NE IZ DEL AVE. T U D OR B LAC K BAY

TU D O R J EV M EH A N IZEM M T5612 LA STN E IZD ELAV E .

preteklosti »motorje« zapestnih ur zagotavljal danes največji globalni ponudnik mehanizmov: švicarsko podjetje ETA, ki je del skupine Swatch in v veliki večini dobavlja mehanizme znotraj nje. Njihovi izdelki so v vsako leto manjšem številu na voljo tudi drugim znamkam, kupiti pa jih je mogoče celo v prosti prodaji. Razlika med hišnimi mehanizmi in tistimi, ki jih za vgradnjo dobavljajo podjetja ETA, Sellita, Soprod, Nivarox in podobni, je na področju ekskluzivnosti več kot očitna; pa gre res zgolj in samo za to?

Ura z mehanizmom iz domače tovarne bo imela zaradi omejene izdaje resda svojo ekskluzivno vrednost in bo zato po svoje unikat, ki ga je s pogosto enormnimi stroški razvila in izdelala posamezna urarska hiša.

Vseeno velja izpostaviti mnogim pomemben faktor pri nakupu zapestne ure: ceno. Praviloma je časomer z mehanizmom zunanjega proizvajalca dostopnejši od tistega z mehanizmom lastne izdelave predvsem zaradi večje in poenostavljene proizvodnje, zaradi tega pa je ugodnejše tudi vzdrževanje. Če se vrnemo k avtomobilski analogiji: tudi motorji prestižnih dirkalnih avtomobilov zahtevajo bolj specifična znanja in ekskluzivnejše rezervne dele od tistih iz večmilijonske serijske proizvodnje.

Pomemben faktor pri časomeru je seveda točnost: najbolj precizni mehanizmi so za kronometrsko natančnost certificirani s strani neodvisnega inštituta COSC, kar proizvajalci pogosto ponosno zapišejo na

In the past many, even the biggest watchmaking houses had their “motors” for watches supplied by what is today the biggest global supplier of mechanisms: the Swiss company ETA, part of the Swatch Group, which mostly supplies mechanisms within the Group. Their products are increasingly less available for other brands, but can even be bought by retail customers. The difference between in-house mechanisms and those supplied

by ETA, Sellita, Soprod, Nivarox, and others, is bluntly obvious in the area of exclusivity; yet, is it really only about this?

Due to being part of a limited edition a watch equipped with a movement made in the home factory will have its exclusive value and this will make it, in a sense, one of a kind which has been developed and manufactured, often involving enormous costs, by a certain watchmaking house. Still, it seems prudent to emphasise an important factor in the purchase of a wrist watch: its price. Generally, a timepiece with its movement made by an outsourcer is more affordable than one containing an in-house movement, primarily due to its simplified production on a larger scale which also makes it easier to maintain. Going back to the car analogy: the engines of prestigious racing cars also require more specific skills and exclusive spare parts than those made in a mass production run of millions.

Another important factor in a watch is, naturally, its precision: the most precise movements are certified for

ST E EL WI TH I N- HOU SE M E C HANI SM M T5 612 .

T UD O R IN-H O US E MECH A N IS M MT 5612 .

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številčnice svojih ur. Za pridobitev mora vsak izdelan primerek mehanizma prestati večtedenski test s povprečno dnevno napako, manjšo od -4 oz. +6 sekund.

Certifikat lahko pridobijo mehanizmi prav vseh znamk in pogosto se zgodi, da pod številčnico z značko velike urarske hiše tiktaka z njihove strani nadgrajen mehanizem zunanjega proizvajalca s COSC certifikatom.

Katero zapestno uro torej izbrati? Tisto s prestižnim mehanizmom, v celoti izdelanim s strani naše priljubljene urarske hiše, ali takšno z mehanizmom zunanjega proizvajalca? Obe kažeta čas, pogosto sta v natančnosti tudi relativno izenačeni, razlikujeta pa se po vrednosti »začetne investicije«, ceni vzdrževanja ter, najpomembneje, po faktorju prestiža in zaupanja urarskemu mojstrstvu urarske znamke, ki ga izkazujeta na različne načine. Končna izbira je seveda prepuščena posameznemu ljubitelju časomerov, njegovim vrednotam in pogosto tudi njegovemu ali njenemu zavedanju, da je nemalokrat sentimentalna vrednost tista, ki časomeru ne glede na to, kakšen motor ga poganja, daje tisto enkratnost, ki jo vidi in čuti le lastnik ali lastnica zapestne ure.

their chronometric accuracy by the independent institute COSC, a title which is frequently found inscribed on the dials of their watches. To acquire this certificate every movement has to undergo testing of several weeks to define the average daily error, smaller than -4 or +6 seconds. The certificate can be granted to movements of all brands and it frequently happens that under the dial bearing the name of a renowned watchmaking house ticks a mechanism that has been upgraded by the brand but produced by a third party and then COSC certified.

Therefore, which watch to choose? The one with the prestigious movement, completely made by our favourite watchmaking brand, or the one with the movement manufactured by a contractor? They both tell the time, frequently they are relatively equal in accuracy, but they differ in the value of the »initial investment«, the cost of maintenance, and, most importantly, in the factor of prestige and trust bestowed upon the mastery of the watchmaking brand that they display in various ways.

The final decision is, naturally, left to every individual watch connoisseur, his or her values, and often the awareness that it is more often than not the sentimental value which gives a timepiece its uniqueness seen and felt by its owner regardless of the movement it runs on.

B ELL & R O S S B R 123 A ER O N AVA LE Z O S N OVO M EH A N IZM A ETA . BELL & RO S S BR 123 A ERO N AVA LE

W IT H T H E ETA-BAS ED MECH A NIS M .

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NOVA VINTAGE KOLEKCIJA AÉRONAVALE Kronograf VINTAGE AÉRONAVALE je instrument merjenja časa, ki zliva funkcionalnost in eleganco. Morda in zlata barva, ki pred oči kličeta uniforme mornariških častnikov, naredita VINTAGE AÉRONAVALE za izjemen časomer · www.bellross.com

MALALAN.EU

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I ZJE MNI E XC E PT ION A L

Ana Roš, Hiša Franko

BES ED ILO WO R DS

F OTO GR A F IJ E PH OTO GR AP HS

N EJ C P U Š

S U ZA N GA B R IJ A N , R O B E RT R I B I Č

Svoje ustvarjanje je potrebno razvijati z majhnimi koraki Creativity Should be Developed in Small Steps Ana Roš je ženska, ki je v odmaknjeno dolino reke Soče pripeljala praktično ves svet. Z edinstvenim pristopom k pripravi hrane se je lani pojavila v seriji Chef’s Table, letos pa so jo razglasili za najboljšo umetnico kuhanja na svetu. V Hiši Franko, ki jo vodi s svojim partnerjem Valterjem, smo se pogovarjali o tradiciji, lepotah Kobarida in pripovedovanju zgodb skozi hrano.

Kaj po vašem mnenju dela dolino Soče tako posebno?

Sama imam dolino Soče res rada v vseh letnih časih zato, ker je tako kontrastna.

Običajno pozimi nimamo snega, nam pa horizont narišejo gore, ki so vedno močno zasnežene. Prav od tu lahko pogledaš preko krošenj dreves na pašnike, za njimi vidiš kuliso zasneženih gora, nad njimi pa neponovljivo modro barvo neba. Da ne omenjam barve Soče, ki je pozimi tako čudovita, da jo z besedami težko opišem. Jeseni recimo drevored, ki pelje do naše restavracije, postane rumeno-rdeč, potem pa nekaj vetrovnih dni listje pada z dreves in občutek imaš, da se voziš skozi zlat gozd. Do Kobarida po Soči priletijo celo galebi, kar dela pokrajino kar nekoliko nostalgično in vse to naredi to okolje tako navdihujoče za ustvarjanje.

Kako na vaše delo vpliva dejstvo, da je Kobarid tako odmaknjen?

Srečo imamo, da smo s strani države malce pozabljeni: smo skorajda edini del Slovenije, do katerega ne pelje avtocesta.

Seveda to botruje neokrnjeni naravi in avtentičnosti celotne doline. Je zelo samosvoja, tako kot ljudje: imamo primorsko gostoljubnost in način priprave hrane,

Ana Roš is a lady who brought practically the entire world to the remote valley of the Soča River. She appeared in the series Chef’s Table last year with her unique approach to food preparation, while this year she was pronounced the best culinary artist in the world. At Hiša Franko, which she runs together with her partner Valter, we discussed tradition, the natural beauties of Kobarid, and telling stories through food.

What is it, in your opinion, that makes the Soča Valley so special?

I love the Soča Valley in all seasons, primarily because it is incredibly contrasting. We don’t usually get any snow in the winter, but our horizon is sketched by the mountains which are always snowcapped. From this exact spot, you can look over the treetops to the meadows, and beyond that is the backdrop of snowy peaks with the blue sky above them—a blueness that you find nowhere else.

Not to mention the color of the Soča which assumes such colors in winter that I can’t even begin to describe. In the fall, for example, the tree-lined road leading to our restaurant turns a yellowish-red, and after a while, a couple of windy days bring the leaves down and you get the feeling that you’re driving through a golden forest. Along the Soča it often happens that seagulls fly inland as far as Kobarid, making the landscape appear slightly nostalgic and the combination of all this is what makes the region so inspirational for creativity.

How does Kobarid’s remote location influence your work?

We are lucky to be slightly forgotten by the state: this is almost the only part of Slovenia to which there is no highway. This fact fosters moments 83

kuhamo testenine in uporabljamo oljčno olje, čeprav živimo v deželi masla. Smo zanimiva mešanica hribovcev in mediteranskega tipa človeka in naše posebnosti so se lahko ohranile le s tem, da smo skozi čas ostali malce umaknjeni.

Hiša Franko je družinska obrt, vemo pa tudi, da ste močno zavezani tradiciji. Nam poveste več o tem?

Mislim, da je zavezanost tradiciji značilnost družinskih obrti, ki pa je predvsem odgovornost, saj mora vsaka generacija ohraniti nekaj družinskega in obenem to smiselno nadgraditi, da se tradicija ohranja. Če ohranjaš in nenehno osvežuješ staro, je to evolucija, ki jo preveč nenadne spremembe lahko hitro ustavijo. Pomembno je, da vsaka generacija doda svežino, znanje, drugačen pogled. To je nujno, ker danes ljudje recimo nočemo več jesti po starem, nas pa zanima tradicija in to zelo vpliva na način priprave hrane. Kljub temu je potrebno svoje delo razvijati z manjšimi koraki, ki jih ljudje lahko razumejo.

Hrana visoke kuhinje je tretirana predvsem kot prestiž. Nam zaupate svoj pogled na to?

Na način, po katerem hrano pripravljamo mi, je ta absolutno prestiž, saj ne gre za vsakodnevno hrano. Naši motivi so raziskovanje tradicije, okusa, različnih sestavin ... Tu razmišljaš, uživaš in ko obrok končaš, ti ta ostane kot spomin, izkušnja, ki ljudi bogati na različne načine. Kljub temu pa si mnogi ljudje, tudi tisti z veliko denarja, takšnega prestiža ne privoščijo, ker ga preprosto ne razumejo.

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the preservation of unspoiled nature and the authenticity of the entire valley. The place is very individualistic, just as its people are: we display the coastal type of hospitality and manner of preparing food, we make pasta and use olive oil, despite the fact that we live in the land of butter. We are an intriguing mix of mountain folk and the Mediterranean type of people and our peculiarities have been preserved only by the fact that through time we have remained somewhat remote.

Hiša Franko is a family business and we know that you are strongly bound to tradition. Can you tell us more about this?

I think that this bond with tradition is a characteristic of family businesses; it primarily entails the responsibility that each generation preserves the tradition and at the same time only develops this as far as it will allow tradition to be preserved. If you preserve and constantly refresh the old, that’s evolution which could be stymied by changes that occur too suddenly. It’s important for every generation to add its own freshness, knowledge, and a different perspective. That’s essential since today people no longer want to eat the old way, nevertheless we are interested in tradition and that’s what strongly influences the preparation of dishes. Despite all this, our work must be developed in small steps that people can understand.

Haute cuisine is treated primarily as prestigious. What’s your opinion on that?

The way we prepare food, that’s absolutely prestigious since we’re not dealing with everyday food. Our motives are the exploration of tradition, taste, various ingredients etc. Here

Gre torej za nekakšno pripovedovanje zgodbe skozi hrano?

Seveda! Zgodbo govori že sam izgled krožnika: trenutno recimo ponujamo jagnjetino, ki jo kombiniramo z rakovico iz lagune in serviramo na »pašniku«: pladnju, na katerem je naložena sveža trava s cvetlicami in regratom. Nanj položimo leseno desko, na kateri je jed. Tako že vizualno, prek zabavnosti sporočamo obiskovalcu naj se sprosti, predvsem pa, da naj ne uporablja pribora. Konec koncev na leseni deski, ki je praktično kos debla, prav težko uporabljaš vilice in nož. Zelo pomembno pa je, da to zgodbo pripoveduje hrana in ne natakar. Gastronomija ni teater, zgodbe natakarjev in različni efekti pa so pogosto namenjeni temu, da gosta zavedejo, da se ne ukvarja več z okusom hrane.

you ponder, enjoy and when you’re finished, the meal remains with you as a memory, an experience that nourishes people in various ways. Still, many people, including the wealthy, never afford themselves such prestige because they simply don’t understand it.

Could we say that this is a kind of story-­ telling through food?

Absolutely! The story is even told just by the sole presentation of plate: currently, for example, we serve lamb combined with lagoon crab and served on the »pasture«: a tray laden with fresh grass including flowers and dandelion. A wooden board is placed on it and the dish is served on top. This way its visuality, the amusement tells the visitor to relax, and especially not to use cutlery. After all, it is difficult to use a knife and fork on a wooden board,

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Se za postavitvijo vaših krožnikov skriva sistematičen pristop h kompoziciji ali ustvarjate predvsem po navdihu?

Nehote imamo vsi v sebi neko sistematiko, pa čeprav naša estetika deluje kot enkratna in neponovljiva. Mislim da vsakega od nas pri takšnem delu vodi neka lastna filozofija, osebna nota in ta ima v sebi gotovo nekaj sistematike. Sama pri postavljanju krožnikov poskušam slediti naravi, ustvarjati občutek njene lahkotnosti. Pogosto uporabljam liste različnih rastlin, ki jih postavljam tako, kot bi jih na hrano odložil veter: na različne višine, zračno, lahkotno.

Osnovo za moje delo mi konec koncev daje narava, kjer eno drevo ali pa zgolj list na njem ni nikoli enak drugemu.

Kaj pa, ko ustvarjamo v domači kuhinji?

Bi rekli, da je estetski pristop k vsakdan­ jemu kuhanju pomemben?

Absolutno! Estetika domače kuhinje je sicer drugačna in težko opredeliš, kaj je lepše. Največji rezultat estetike domače kuhinje se vidi pri otrocih, ki najprej jedo z očmi: pogosto že ko hrana prihaja na mizo vzkliknejo »mmm, to pa je dobro!« in tu je estetika ključnega pomena. Je samo drugačna od tiste pri visoki kuhinji, gre za drugo sporočilnost.

Vaša zgodba o uspehu je predvsem povezana z radovednostjo, vztrajnostjo in neustavljivo željo po učenju. Kakšen bi bil nasvet, ki bi ga danes dali Ani Roš na začetku njene poti?

Dala bi si nasvet: »Take it easy«. Včasih sem se obremenjevala z vsako malenkostjo, kar nas je tudi gnalo naprej, zaradi tega smo napredovali tako v strežbi, kot tudi v kuhinji. Svetovala bi si tudi, da je pot do uspeha lahko tudi nekoliko daljša, vsak korak pa narejen s tehtnim razmislekom. Ni nujno zgolj to, da delaš, temveč da stvari dokončaš.

Ne bi spremenila veliko stvari, vzela bi si edino več časa zase. Konec koncev je življenje eno samo; če si vzamemo čas zase in za družino, smo srečni, ko smo srečni, pa bolje delamo.

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which is essentially a piece of a tree trunk.

What is very important is that the story is told by the food and not the waiter. Gastronomy is no theater, while stories told by the waiters and various other props are frequently intended to lead the guest away from dealing with the taste of the food.

Does the presentation of your plates reveal a systematic approach to composition or do you create primarily by inspiration?

Inadvertently we all have a sort of systematics inside, even though our aesthetics appear unique and exclusive. I think each of us is guided by a certain individual philosophy in our work, a personal note, and that surely includes a bit of systematics. As far as I’m concerned, I try to follow nature when presenting my plates, I try to create the feeling of its lightness. I often use the leaves of various plants placed as if they were just deposited by the wind: at various heights, airily, lightly. After all, the basis for my work comes from nature where a tree or simply a leaf on it is never the same as another.

What about in our home kitchens? Would you say that aesthetics are important even in the everyday preparation and creation of meals?

Definitely! The aesthetics of home-cooked meals is generally different but it is difficult to define which is lovelier. Most often, the result of the home-made aesthetics is revealed in children who start eating with their eyes: frequently you see them exclaiming as the food approaches the table: »Mmm, that’s delicious!« That’s where aesthetics is essential. It is simply different than the one in haute cuisine, it involves a different message.

Your success story is primarily linked to curiosity, persistence, and an insuppressible desire to learn. What advice would you give Ana Roš today if she was just embarking on her path?

I’d advise: »Take it easy«. I used to worry about every little thing and that was the force that pushed us forward, that’s why we improved in service and in the kitchen. I’d tell myself that the path to success can be a little longer, while every step is made by thorough deliberation.

It’s not only crucial to work but also to finish.

I wouldn’t change many things, I’d only take more time for myself. After all, we only have one life; if we take time for ourselves and our families, we’re happy, and when we’re happy, we work better.

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Nešteto razgledov na poti do Dubrovnika

Numerous Views on the Road to Dubrovnik

Kakšno je sanjsko potovanje za ljubitelje bencinskih hlapov in močnih avtomobilskih agregatov? Pet dni vožnje s prestižnimi avtomobili po najlepših cestah jadranske obale, kjer se lahko le prepustite užitkom v vožnji, odlični hrani ter prelepi pokrajini, obenem pa preživljate noči v najbolj luksuznih hrvaških hotelih. 1700 kilometrov najboljših cestnih odsekov, 3 države, nešteto razgledov, ki vam vzamejo dih, in zvočne kulise, ob katerih se vam naježi koža. Vse to brez iskanja popolnega avtomobila in najboljšega cestnega odseka, saj za celotno organizacijo poskrbimo mi.

What is a dream trip for petrol heads and fans of strong car engines? How about five days spent driving prestigious cars along the best roads of the Adriatic coast, enjoying the pleasures of motoring, the excellent cuisine, and unforgettable scenery, while spending your nights in the most luxurious Croatian hotels? Seventeen hundred kilometers of the best stretches of asphalt, three countries, countless breathtaking views, and a monster soundtrack. All this without any need for planning and finding the perfect car for the challenging road, since we take care of everything.

Z nasmehom na obrazu, pospešenim srčnim utripom in polni adrenalina bomo v avtomobilih voznega parka Furlantech premagovali kilometre najboljših cest Hrvaške, kjer nas bo pot ponesla preko različnih otokov do Dubrovnika in nato naprej vse do prelepega kotorskega zaliva v Črni Gori. Seveda se bomo potrudili, da poleg odličnih cest povsod najdemo tudi najlepše razgledne točke za opazovanje lepot Jadrana, skupaj spijemo dopoldansko kavo, uživamo v kulinaričnih dobrotah najboljših restavracij in se naužijemo krasot, ki jih ponuja hrvaška obala.

With a smile on our face, an accelerating pulse, and adrenaline pumping we will conquer mile after mile of the best driving roads of the islands and mainland Croatia, in the Furlantech car fleet, as the journey takes us down to Dubrovnik and then all the way to scenic Kotor Bay, which is a truly extraordinary place. Besides the terrific roads, we’ll also find the most beautiful views and the best places to take a break, where we can have our morning coffee, enjoy the culinary delicacies of the best restaurants, and bathe in the beauties offered by the Croatian coast.

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Novice News

Nova podoba: tudi na spletu!

A New Look: Also on the Web!

Poleg prenove logotipa smo osvežili tudi spletno mesto www.malalan.eu, kjer ob predstavitvi naše ponudbe najdete tudi mnogo zanimivih in poučnih vsebin, ki so bile do sedaj na voljo le v tiskani izdaji revije Moments by Malalan. Pridružite se nam ob raziskovanju zanimivih zgodb iz sveta urarstva in draguljarstva!

In addition to our logo getting a new look, we also updated the site www.malalan.eu, where — along with the presentation of our offer — you can also find a lot of interesting and educational contents, which were up until now only available in the printed edition of Moments by Malalan. Join us in the exploration of interesting stories from the worlds of watchmaking and jewelry!

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Razstava Rolex Daytona v Ljubljani Ob lanskoletni predstavitvi nove različice Rolexovega ikoničnega kronografa smo v sodelovanju s to prestižno urarsko hišo v Ljubljani na ogled postavili prav posebno razstavo, ki nas je po sledeh Rolex Daytone popeljala vse od začetkov v šestdesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja, pa do današnjega statusa absolutne ikone v svetu športnih časomerov.

Razstava je bila v prostorih Draguljarne Malalan v Ljubljani prav za vse na ogled dva tedna. V tem času smo organizirali tudi serijo posebnih dogodkov, namenjenih posebej ljubiteljem urarstva. Prvič so nas obiskali predstavniki združenja YES in slovenskega Porsche kluba, z razstavo pa smo se predstavili tudi na že 24. Managerskem koncertu v Cankarjevem domu.

The Rolex Daytona Show in Ljubljana At the last year’s presentation of the new version of the Rolex’ iconic chronograph, in cooperation with the prestigious watchmaking house, we put on a very special show in Ljubljana, which took us in the footsteps of Rolex Daytona, all the way to its beginnings in the sixties, and to its present status of the absolute icon in the world of sports timepieces.

The exhibition took place on the premises of Draguljarna Malalan in Ljubljana; it was on display for all, for two weeks.

During this time, we also organized a series of special events aimed specifically at the lovers of watchmaking. For the first time, the representatives of the YES association and the Slovenian Porsche Club paid us a visit, while we presented the exhibition already at the 24th Manager concert at Cankarjev dom.

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Otvoritev novega butika Ponosni smo, da lahko z vami delimo novico o odprtju novega butika v hrvaški prestolnici, v centru Zagreba, kjer se predstavljamo z nakitom Malalan in znamkami Bulgari, Breitling, Pomellato, Dodo, Marco Bicego, Leo Pizzo, kmalu pa tudi z največjim imenom švicarskega urarstva, Rolexom. Na otvoritvi nas je z obiskom počastilo mnogo hrvaških ljubiteljev presežkov, estradnikov in glasbenikov, ki so z navdušenjem odkrivali dragulje novega hrvaškega epicentra prestiža.

The Opening of a New Store We are proud to be able to share the news of the opening of our new store in the Croatian capital, in the city center of Zagreb, where we present our Malalan jewelry, along with the Bulgari, Breitling, Pomellato, Dodo, Marco Bicego and Leo Pizzo brands, and soon also the biggest name of the Swiss watchmaking industry: Rolex. At the opening, we were honored by the visits of many Croatian luxury items lovers, entertainers and musicians who were excited to discover the jewels of the new Croatian epicenter of luxury.

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Breitling DC-3 v Zagrebu

Breitling DC-3 in Zagreb

V mesecu marcu je svojo pot okrog sveta pričelo pred 77 leti izdelano, danes pa s strani Breitlinga obnovljeno letalo DC-3, ki na krovu nosi omejeno serijo 500 časomerov Navitimer, za katere že sprejemajo prednaročila. Pot bo trajala šest mesecev, turneja se je začela v Ženevi, za prvi postanek pa so pri Breitlingu izbrali Zagreb, kar smo v hrvaški draguljarni Malalan proslavili s posebnim dogodkom, zavitim v značilno Breitlingovo rumeno bravo.

In the month of March, the DC-3 aircraft that was manufactured 77 years ago, but has been recently renovated by Breitling, began its journey around the world; it carries a limited series of 500 Navitimer timepieces on board and they are already taking preorders for the items. The trip will last six months; the tour began in Geneva, and for the first stop, Breitling chose Zagreb, which we celebrated with a special event in the Croatian Draguljarna Malalan branch, which was wrapped in the characteristic Breitling yellow color.

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Peter Podlunšek in Breitling Prijetno druženje v Zagrebu sta popestrila Peter Kellner, direktor Breitlinga za Vzhodno Evropo, in Peter Podlunšek, akrobatski pilot z oznanilom, da bo slednji v letošnjem letu kot prijatelj znamke predstavljal Breitling tako v seriji tekmovanj Red Bull Air Race kot tudi na drugih dogodkih. Sodelovanje z navdušenjem pozdravljamo in se veselimo prihajajoče sezone letalskih užitkov.

Peter Podlunšek and Breitling The pleasant gathering in Zagreb was enlivened by Peter Kellner, the Breitling Eastern Europe manager, and Peter Podlunšek, the aerobatic pilot, who announced that, as a friend of the brand, he will this year represent Breitling in both of the Red Bull Air Race series, as well as at other events. We enthusiastically welcome the cooperation and look forward to the upcoming season of air pleasures.

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Ustvarjanje z nakitom Dodo Za tiste, ki nakitu radi dodajo izraz svoje osebnosti in se poigrajo z neštetimi kombinacijami barv in oblik, smo pripravili serijo delavnic v Ljubljani in Zagrebu, kjer smo z damami raziskovali svet igrivih čarov nakita Dodo in odkrili tudi trende nakita letošnjega poletja.

Creating with Dodo Jewelry

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For those who love to add an expression of their own personalities to the jewelry and who play around with countless combinations of colours and shapes, we prepared a series of workshops in Ljubljana and Zagreb, where we, along with the ladies, explored the world of playful charms of Dodo jewelry and discovered also the jewelry trends for this summer.

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TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. ŠVICARSK A DOLINA VALLÉE DE JOUX ŽE CELO TISOČLETJE VELJA ZA OSTRO IN NEPOPUSTLJIVO OKOLJE, LETA 1875 PA JE TAMK AJŠNJA VASICA LE BRASSUS POSTALA DOM DRUŽBE AUDEMARS PIGUET. TU SO SE URILI PRVI MOJSTRI URARSTVA, KI JIH JE NA POTI R AZKRIVANJA SKRIVNOSTI ZAPLETENE MEHANIKE GNALO SPOŠTOVANJE DO SIL NARAVE. TA PIONIRSKI DUH NAS ŠE DANES NAVDIHUJE, DA NENEHNO KLJUBUJEMO NAVADAM VISOKEGA URARSTVA.

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