Phoenix Media Network, Inc. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A. Summer 2025
SISTER POWER
Giacomini Sisters Leading Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company
BY CAROL M. BAREUTHER, RD
The Giacomini sisters, who operate the family-owned Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, weren’t your typical farm kids. Sure, they grew up on California’s Tomales Bay, adjacent to Robert Giacomini Dairy, which their parents, Bob and Dean, purchased in 1959. But the siblings didn’t rise before daybreak to milk cows or dream of becoming dairy women.
Often, they even mistimed a daily chore: forgetting to retrieve the family’s milk from the bulk tank before the truck arrived, leaving the kitchen refrigerator empty of this fresher-than-fresh food.
“I’d say the only inkling back then that tied to our future was the fondness we shared for gathering at the dinner table, our love of food and its connection to the community and the land,” says Diana Giacomini Hagan, chief financial officer.
“Point Reyes is a small community. We had a large extended family, and there was a rich tradition of coming together over meals for holidays and celebrations. The broader West Marin community is an agricultural area. We were surrounded by fish-
ermen, hunters, and other farmers. Much of the locally sourced food was traded amongst friends and neighbors. You never knew when somebody would stop by with fresh crab or a whole salmon or fruit from their pear tree. Food was part of everyday culture. Everyone bartered with each other and supported one another’s businesses,” she says.
The sisters left the farm to attend college. After graduation, they traded country life for the business world, pursued finance, sales, and marketing professions, and started families.
In 1998, deciding the fate of the family farm brought the sisters back to the dinner table with their parents. At the time, the Robert Giacomini Dairy operation spanned 720 acres, with a herd of 500-plus cows and a reputation for producing ultrahigh-quality milk. With the sister’s father getting older, plus the challenge of low conventional milk prices and escalating input costs, one choice was to sell the farm. Instead, they all agreed to a fork in the road.
Pictured are the Giacomini sisters (left to right): Lynn Giacomini Stray, Diana Giacomini Hagan and Jill Giacomini Basch.
COVER STORY
“Our dad looked at us that day and said, ‘What do you think about a value-added product, particularly cheese?‘” says Lynn Giacomini Stray, chief operating officer. “He thought if we turned the liquid product into something with a more profitable margin, we could keep the farm and have more family members get involved, ensuring the business would survive for future generations.”
Cheese production was a “right time, right place” idea. A few years before, Peggy Smith and Sue Conley founded Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes and began purchasing milk from the nearby Straus Dairy Farm. The duo encouraged others to preserve the region’s rich agricultural heritage by making value-added dairy products on the farm, adding momentum to the new artisan cheese movement.
The family responded enthusiastically, and Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company was launched, making its first wheels of cheese on Aug. 1, 2000. Original Blue (still the company’s flagship product) was introduced to the trade at the Winter Fancy Food Show in January 2001 in San Francisco.
“We always say that cheese saved our family farm,” says Jill Giacomini Basch, chief marketing officer. “It was something we all had in common, and a passion for that returned to our love of food. Cheese is an immortal version of milk that brings people to the table. We had done a lot of travel, understood the link between food and culture, and wanted to create that for our family and our brand. The decision to make cheese brought Lynn and I together as founders, with sister Karen (Giacomini Howard), who was with us for the first decade and then retired, and sister Diana coming into the business in 2009.”
KING OF THE BLUES
The sisters chose blue for their first cheese as a wonderfully niche opportunity. They talked to chefs, retailers, distributors, and food writers for nearly a year as they researched and wrote their business plan.
A common theme emerged: little high-quality blue cheese was manufactured in the U.S., yet there was demand and an opportunity to fill it. Blue is one of the more complex cheeses to make, and as an aged cheese, the sisters would have to lock up much of their initial inventory investment for at least six months. It was a significant risk, but they were confident that blue cheese would fit the niche, especially culinary-wise, and would not accept defeat.
“We wanted culinary application to be a primary aspect of our marketing strategy. Blue cheese is something we wouldn’t have to explain. Yes, blue does appeal to a particular demographic of cheese lovers, but they get it. They know what blue cheese is and how to cook with it. With only one cheese in our repertoire, we developed tons of recipes to help market the cheese specifically to home cooks, as well as professional chefs,” says Basch.
Once they decided on blue, the sisters turned their attention to making the cheese. First, the family converted an old horse barn into a state-of-the-art cheese plant with a couple of 1,500gallon vats.
Secondly, they hired an experienced cheesemaker from Maytag Dairy Farms. Maytag was the only domestically produced, nationally available, non-commercially branded, high-end table blue
“Our message to cheese fans is that families deserve to eat better, especially when it comes to agricultural products that come from family farms.”
— Lynn Giacomini Stray, chief operating officer
at the time. The introduction of Point Reyes Original Blue added something exciting, new, and niche-worthy.
The simple-yet-signature recipe called for grade A unpasteurized milk from the family’s born-and-raised green-pasture-grazed Holstein cows, a mix of salty Pacific Ocean breezes and coastal fog to lend a unique California flavor, and perfect timing. Original blue is made from milk only a few hours from the cow and aged three months. The result is a firm-yet-creamy, full-flavored blue with a perfectly balanced sweet-salty flavor.
“Those first batches were still aging when we booked meetings with distributors and retailers. We were young, naïve, and enthusiastic about telling our family story. We explained how our great-grandfather, Tobias Giacomini, immigrated to the U.S. from Italy in 1904, traveled to California in search of gold, and ended up poultry farming instead,” says Basch.
Basch says her grandfather continued in agriculture, starting his own dairy in 1944, where her father was raised.
“When we finished the story, the buyers were just as excited. They’d ask, ‘Well, where’s the cheese?’ and look on the floor for a cooler. We’d have to tell them we didn’t have any, as our first wheels weren’t quite ready. Cheese or not, they always remembered us because they remembered our story,” says Basch.
The sisters made only Original Blue for their first nine years in business. They were the only California blue, which helped get the name and brand out. The timing, a recurrent theme, was right as well.
In the early 2000s, chefs began writing where key ingredients came from, highlighting farm names on their menus. California’s
star chefs of the day, Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower and Traci Des Jardins, all featured Point Reyes Original Blue on their menus.
Then, in November 2001, R.W. Apple Jr., a long-time writer for The New York Times, visited. The drop-in came the day after Apple dined at Chef Gary Danko’s namesake restaurant in San Francisco, where the writer enjoyed a platter of four California farmstead cheeses, of which Point Reyes Original Blue was one. The visit put the creamery on the cover of the food section under an article titled, “A New Normandy, North of the Golden Gate.” The piece equated the lands north of San Francisco as one of the best cheese-producing regions in the world.
Point Reyes Original Blue quickly gained popularity in retail, too. It’s been on Whole Foods Market’s core list, meaning it’s sold in every store nationwide since February 2001.
THE ROYAL COURT
Come 2009, Point Reyes’ first cheesemaker retired, and Kuba Hemmerling was hired as the creamery’s head cheesemaker. A year later, the company introduced its second cheese, Toma. The idea behind this farmer’s style semi-hard table cheese, with its buttery flavor, was to offer something for those who didn’t like blue. Thus, Toma wasn’t only a line extension, but also reached a new customer base. Toma instantly became a crowd-pleaser and a platform for innovation.
Cognizant of the consumer demand trend for vibrant flavors, the sisters experimented through R&D, along with their culinary director, Jennifer Luttrell, who heads up The Fork, the creamery’s culinary and education center.
In 2018, they launched three flavors of Toma: TomaProvence, TomaRashi and TomaTruffle, which earned first place in the American Cheese Society’s 2024 American Originals with Flavor Added All Milk category.
“We wanted a uniqueness for these flavors to stand out and not paint us as doing what everybody else was doing,” says Hagan. And truffles, adds Lynn, “truffles aren’t a trend anymore, but an everyday flavor profile that people look for.” She added, “We chose to partner with the Sabatino family in Umbria, Italy, to ensure TomaTruffle was absolutely a showstopper.”
Last year, the creamery added two more outstanding flavored
cheeses. One is Truffle Brie, which also uses truffles from Sabatino. The second is Fennel Blue, where fennel seeds are added to the company’s acclaimed Bay Blue, a mellow-flavored, rustic-style, fudgy-textured cheese with a sweet, salted caramel finish.
Innovation doesn’t stop at flavors. The sisters released Quinta, a soft-ripened, bloomy-rind cheese, in 2020. Quinta is wrapped in California Bay Laurel-infused spruce bark and reveals a spreadable interior when the top is cut off, making it a unique addition to their cheese portfolio.
LET THEM EAT GOOD CHEESE
Today, Point Reyes Farmstead has two creameries, the second of which was built in 2018 in nearby Petaluma. Original Blue, the company’s only raw milk cheese, continues to be made on the farm in Point Reyes, exclusively from the milk produced on the family’s farm.
The pasteurized cheeses, including the Toma family, Bay Blue, Gouda, Quinta, and Truffle Brie, are handcrafted in Petaluma, where the milk is sourced from neighbors who share a similar sustainable farming ethos to the Giacomini sisters. Seven cheesemakers and two cheesemaking crews total work at both facilities.
The next generation, Stray’s son Miles, is learning all aspects of the company.
Looking ahead, Stray says, “One of the most important things to us is education and getting our cheese in people’s mouths. We don’t want to be a specialty cheese for special occasions. We want to lift people’s palates so they reach out for great quality handcrafted artisan cheese, rather than commodity cheese from the dairy wall. Really good cheese adds so much flavor in so many ways, from simple cheeseboards to burgers, pasta, salads, risotto, or elevated white tablecloth menus. Our message to cheese fans is that families deserve to eat better, especially when it comes to agricultural products that come from family farms.”
Three of the four Giacomini sisters, Karen Giacomini Howard, Lynn Giacomini Stray and Jill Giacomini Basch, stand with dad, Bob, on the very first day of cheesemaking in 2000.
FEATURE
Fresh Mozzarella Magic
This cheese captures our hearts (and palates).
BY HANNAH HOWARD
There is something undeniably joyful about pulling apart a ball of fresh mozzarella. Maybe it’s the silky sheen of the porcelain-white surface, or the way it gently stretches, milky and pliant. Maybe it’s the flavor — clean, delicate, and somehow comforting. For me, fresh mozzarella is not just cheese. It’s a little edible miracle.
Mozzarella, in its earliest form, dates back to Southern Italy, where it was traditionally made with the rich milk of water buffalo. The word “mozzarella” comes from mozzare, meaning “to cut off,” a nod to the hand-pulled technique used to form the cheese into balls.
It’s part of a family of pasta filata, or “spun paste” cheeses, where curds are kneaded and stretched in hot water. This stretching, or “pulling,” gives fresh mozzarella its signature texture — smooth, elastic and satisfyingly soft.
In Italy, Mozzarella di Bufala Campana is still produced under strict DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) regulations and prized for its artisanal quality.
However, outside of Italy, and particularly in the U.S., mozzarella is more commonly made with cow’s milk. Cow’s milk is more widely available and easier to work with on a large scale.
A quick note on the terms “fresh mozzarella,” as opposed to “low-moisture mozzarella:” Fresh mozzarella and low-moisture mozzarella may come from the same cheese family, but they are quite different in both production and performance.
Fresh mozzarella has a high moisture content and is usually packed in brine or whey, giving it a soft, delicate texture and a clean, milky flavor. It’s best eaten fresh and is ideal for cold or lightly heated dishes.
In contrast, low-moisture mozzarella is aged slightly longer, has a firmer texture, and a saltier, more concentrated flavor — making it perfect for melting over pizzas and baked pastas where browning and structure are key.
While low-moisture mozzarella has become a go-to for pizza (hello, golden bubbling cheese!), fresh mozzarella has seen an explosion of popularity in recent years. It’s not just a staple in Caprese salads anymore — it’s a culinary chameleon showing up in breakfast dishes, pastas and even desserts.
THE CRAVE BROTHERS APPROACH: FROM FARM TO CHEESE
What sets it apart? According to Roseanne Crave, sales and marketing manager at Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese, “Fresh mozzarella offers a creamier, more indulgent taste with a milky, delicate flavor. It’s the higher butterfat content and the pasta filata process that create its unique charm.”
At Crave Brothers in Waterloo, WI, it all starts with the milk. “We
use fresh milk from our own herd of Holstein cows,” explains Crave. “That allows us to maintain consistency and control throughout the cheesemaking process.”
Their cheesemakers monitor every step, producing a range of shapes and sizes, from tiny perline to larger logs.
“Exceptional fresh mozzarella is defined by its clean, uniform, fresh milk flavor, paired with a soft, smooth texture and carefully balanced salt content,” says Crave. “Every bite highlights the quality of our milk.”
Milk type plays a starring role in mozzarella’s character. “Buffalo milk offers a tangier finish with higher fat content,” notes Crave. “Cow’s milk provides a milder, sweeter flavor, both offering fresh, creamy qualities.”
Fresh mozzarella is — as the name promises — a young, fresh product. “It’s not meant to age or develop further flavor characteristics over time. That’s why ingredient quality is paramount,” explains Crave.
BELGIOIOSO: FRESHNESS MADE TO ORDER
BelGioioso Cheese, in Green Bay, WI, a household name for many cheese lovers, begins its mozzarella story with local sourcing. “We start the process with fresh cow’s milk delivered to our plant from within a 30-mile radius,” says Jamie Wichlacz, marketing and public relations manager. “Our cheese is made to order for freshness.”
The cheesemaking process is rooted in tradition: pasteurize the milk, add starter and rennet, form the curd, stretch it into pasta filata, then cool and brine it in salt water. “Our fresh mozzarella is soft, delicate, and porcelain white,” says Wichlacz. “Its flavor is milky and fresh.”
BelGioioso offers a wide array of formats, including pearls, ciliegine, bocconcini, ovolini, balls, logs, pre-sliced, smoked, braids, and even snack packs.
Wichlacz also points to the rise of burrata, a luxurious cousin of mozzarella with a creamy, soft center. “Beyond mozzarella, burrata is capturing hearts. It’s fresh mozzarella filled with stracciatella and cream — an indulgence that’s hard to beat.”
As consumers become more adventurous and health-conscious, mozzarella’s appeal only grows. “Fresh mozzarella fits the trend for less processed, more wholesome ingredients,” Wichlacz says. “And it’s popping up everywhere — from restaurant menus to home kitchens.”
CAPUTO CHEESE: HONORING ITALIAN-AMERICAN ROOTS
At Caputo Cheese, a family-owned company with deep Italian-American heritage, mozzarella is a point of pride. “Fresh mozzarella stands apart from other types due to its high moisture content, delicate flavor, and traditional production method,” says Natale Caputo, president of Caputo Cheese, Chicago, IL.
“It’s usually packed in water or whey to maintain its creamy texture and is best consumed within a few days of production. The flavor is clean, milky, with a light tang,” explains Caputo. “That simplicity is what makes it so beautiful.”
Caputo Cheese uses top-tier Midwestern cow’s milk and marries tradition with innovation. “We combine modern technology with hand-stretching,” says Caputo. “Our cheesemakers are artists, preserving the Old-World methods.”
For Caputo, exceptional mozzarella means balance: “The texture should be soft and slightly elastic, releasing a bit of milky liquid when cut. The surface should be smooth and shiny, and the mouthfeel creamy and clean.”
Caputo’s mozzarella is crafted with chefs and food professionals in mind — designed to perform in commercial kitchens while staying true to its roots. “It’s not a commodity,” Caputo insists. “It’s thoughtfully crafted, reflecting our passion for authenticity, tradition and quality.”
MOZZARELLA’S CULINARY POSSIBILITIES
Across the board, producers agree: demand for fresh mozzarella is booming. Consumers want fresh, simple, versatile foods — and mozzarella delivers. Whether it’s nestled on a pizza, perched atop a salad, or starring in a brunch dish, its charm is hard to resist.
Mozzarella is “an incredibly flexible ingredient,” says Crave. “It pairs beautifully with sweet or savory and works across meal occasions.”
“At its heart, fresh mozzarella is about connection. Connection to tradition, to craftsmanship, to family. That’s why it endures.”
— Natale Caputo, Caputo Cheese, Chicago, IL
Fresh mozzarella is a blank canvas for creativity in the kitchen. Beyond the classic Caprese salad, it can transform into countless dishes — modern, elegant, and even unexpected. Picture a flatbread topped with blistered peaches, torn mozzarella, arugula, and a balsamic drizzle. Or a savory galette with heirloom tomatoes and garlic-infused olive oil.
Mozzarella also shines in hot applications. Nestle it into breakfast frittatas, layer it into lasagna, or tuck it into a savory stuffed chicken breast. Try roasting a tray of vegetables and finishing them with pearls of fresh mozzarella and a handful of basil. It’s indulgent and wholesome at once.
“Fresh mozzarella isn’t just trending — it’s a staple,” says Wichlacz. “People are embracing its purity, and they’re not afraid to experiment with it.”
In a world where fast food reigns and shortcuts abound, fresh mozzarella invites us to slow down. To savor. To tear into something delicate and delicious. And maybe, just maybe, to taste something timeless.
“At its heart, fresh mozzarella is about connection,” Caputo reflects. “Connection to tradition, to craftsmanship, to family. That’s why it endures.” CC
FEATURE
The Old-World Charm and New-World Possibilities of Brie
The joy of brie is in both its history and its evolution.
BY HANNAH HOWARD
Brie has long been known as the “Queen of Cheeses …” and the first cheese to disappear at a party. As Carrie Stenerson, independent cheesemonger, educator, and “Justice of the Cheese,” puts it, “She’s your It Girl. She knows everyone and is ready to hang with any crowd.”
For centuries, brie has graced cheese boards with its soft, bloomy rind and buttery interior. It’s a cheese of contrast — mild but complex, accessible but nuanced, delicate yet deeply rooted in tradition.
RICH HISTORY MEETS MODERN CREATIVITY
Brie’s story begins in the seventh century France, in the Île-deFrance region just east of Paris. It was originally made by monks, who developed the soft, creamy cheese using raw cow’s milk and allowed it to ripen under naturally cool, humid conditions.
By the Middle Ages, brie had become a prized delicacy served at royal banquets and aristocratic tables. Charlemagne is said to have tasted brie in the eighth century and declared it one of his favorite cheeses.
Over time, it gained fame, and in the 19th century, brie earned the nickname “The Queen of Cheeses” during the Congress of Vienna, where it won over international dignitaries.
Today, Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun are two of the most iconic French bries, produced under strict AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) standards to preserve the tradition and terroir of the original cheese. These cheeses are rich, lactic, earthy, and almost runny at peak ripeness — a luxurious experience steeped in history.
But in the U.S., regulations have shaped a different brie land-
scape. Because American rules prohibit the sale of raw milk cheeses aged fewer than 60 days, traditional brie — as made in France — is off-limits. Instead, American and global cheesemakers have stepped in to meet demand with pasteurized milk versions and brie-style cheeses. And it’s opened up a world of innovation.
According to Stenerson, “The soft-ripened cheese industry has taken off here in the U.S., and frankly, across the globe. A lot of the products people associate with brie are actually different — but nevertheless brie-inspired — cheeses.”
So, what makes brie so iconic in the first place? Its charm lies in its versatility.
“Looking to bring the perfect date to a party? She’s your girl,” Stenerson laughs. “You like things a bit spicy? She’ll keep you cool. You want something herbaceous? She’ll mellow you out, too.”
Brie plays well with a wide array of pairings and moods. Its mellow, buttery base is adaptable — welcoming the sweet, the savory, and the surprising.
THE SCIENCE AND MAGIC BENEATH THE RIND
Brie’s signature white, velvety rind isn’t just for show — it’s a living layer that plays a crucial role in the cheese’s flavor, texture and aroma. This rind is formed by a mold known as Penicillium camemberti, which is introduced to the cheese either by spraying or dipping during production. Under the right conditions, this mold begins to grow on the surface, creating the characteristic bloomy rind.
As P. camemberti matures, it develops a network of thread-like structures called hyphae, which intertwine to form mycelia. This
BRIE’S BEST IN CLASS
While Carrie Stenerson, independent cheesemonger, educator and “Justice of the Cheese,” loves a good French classic — Brie de Meaux and Brie Fermier are two all-time favorites. Here are some new world brie-inspired wheels to try:
Moses Sleeper, Jasper Hill, VT
Named after a Revolutionary War scout, Moses Sleeper is a bloomyrind cheese made with pasteurized cow’s milk. Crafted in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom, it offers a balanced flavor with mushroomy earthiness. The texture is supple and creamy, ideal for pairing with a dry sparkling wine and a crusty baguette.
Thistle, Valley Milkhouse, PA
This handcrafted cheese from a woman-owned microcreamery in the Oley Valley is made with grass-fed milk and ripened to develop a delicate rind. Thistle has a buttery texture with grassy and floral notes and pairs beautifully with herbal teas or light whites like Grüner Veltliner.
Pianoforte, Andante Dairy, CA
Created by Soyoung Scanlan, a former biochemist turned cheesemaker, Pianoforte is an elegant double-cream brie-style cheese with
a silken texture and balanced salt. It melts luxuriously on the tongue and makes an excellent companion to honey, ripe pears, or a glass of champagne.
High Law Queen, High Lawn Farm, MA
Made with rich Jersey cow milk from a century-old farm in the Berkshires, High Law Queen is a luscious brie-style cheese with a pillowy rind and a deeply buttery flavor. Its dense, paste-like texture makes it perfect with stone fruit preserves or a bold, structured white like chardonnay.
Green Hill, Sweet Grass Dairy, GA
A double-cream brie-style cheese from a family-run dairy in Georgia, Green Hill is made from pasteurized cow’s milk and has a thin, bloomy rind. The interior is rich and sweet, with lactic tang and a velvety finish. It pairs well with dry cider or a drizzle of wildflower honey.
Little Bloom on the Prairie, Prairie Fruits Farm, IL
This charming cheese is made with pasteurized goat’s milk and has a bloomy rind that balances tangy, lemony brightness with mushroomy depth. It’s a seasonal favorite from a sustainable farmstead in Illinois and pairs beautifully with berry jam, sparkling rosé or a crisp lager.
“Brie is timeless. She’s still the queen, but she’s also not afraid to party.”
— Carrie Stenerson, independent cheesemonger and educator
mycelial layer not only gives brie its distinctive appearance but also initiates a series of biochemical reactions essential to the cheese’s development.
The mold releases enzymes that break down proteins (proteolysis) and fats (lipolysis) in the cheese. Proteolysis softens the cheese from the rind inward, leading to the creamy, silky texture brie is famous for, while lipolysis contributes to its rich, buttery flavor.
The breakdown of proteins also produces ammonia, which imparts that characteristic earthy aroma associated with brie. This process also reduces the cheese’s acidity, further enhancing its smooth texture and mellow taste.
The rind acts as a protective barrier, shielding the cheese from unwanted microbes while allowing it to “breathe,” facilitating the complex interplay of microbial activity that defines brie’s unique profile. It’s science, but it sure seems a little like magic.
DEBUNKING BRIE MYTHS
Brie’s popularity also comes with a few misconceptions, and Stenerson is eager to set the record straight. First up: freezing. “Please don’t freeze your brie — not for later, and definitely not to make it ‘easier to cut,’” Stenerson pleads.
Freezing changes the structure of the cheese, turning it wet and soggy when thawed. If you’re not planning to cook with it, keep it cold and cut it fresh.
Second: yes, you can eat the rind — and you should. “Try the
rind at least once on every brie you taste,” Stenerson encourages. The flavor can vary significantly. If you didn’t enjoy the rind on a mass-market wheel, you may love the earthy, vegetal notes on a Brie Fermier or Brie de Meaux.
Another point of confusion? Not all bloomy-rind cheeses are technically brie. As 2025 CMI Masters winner Emilia D’Albero aptly notes, “While all bries are bloomy rind cheeses, not all bloomy rind cheeses are bries!” Brie has a specific origin and format, though the style has certainly inspired creative interpretations far and wide.
Lastly, for peak flavor, let your cheese warm to room temperature before serving. “It requires a bit of patience,” Stenerson admits, “but your cheese will thank you.”
BRIE AND THE ART OF THE UNEXPECTED PAIRING
Of course, baguette and brie is a classic pairing for a reason. But it’s fun to venture beyond those go-tos. “Snack food and brie is where it’s at,” says Stenerson.
Think: Zapp’s Voodoo potato chips, Hot Cheetos, french fries and even chicken tenders. The salty crunch and richness of the cheese play in perfect harmony.
Sweet pairings also shine. Stenerson loves pairing soft cheeses with Brown Butter Chocolate Chip Cherry cookies or dark chocolate-laced Korova cookies. And a summer favorite? Brie s’mores.
“Add brie to your s’mores — not as a marshmallow replacement, but as an addition,” says Stenerson. “The oozy cheese, a little funky, adds a rich twist. I’d recommend dark chocolate to keep things balanced.”
Brie also pairs well with a range of wines — from champagne and sparkling wines to earthy reds, like Pinot Noir and Gamay. For a fresh take, try brie with hard cider or a crisp saison beer.
Brie may have deep roots in French soil, but it’s flourished in new soil, too. Whether you’re a purist for raw milk Brie de Meaux or eager to try a southern-style with a spoon, the joy of brie is in both its history and its evolution. “Brie is timeless,” says Stenerson. “She’s still the queen, but she’s also not afraid to party.” CC
CHEESE TRAIL
WISCONSIN CHEESEMAKERS
A look at Midwest cheesemakers making their mark.
BY LISA WHITE
Wisconsin has a long history of cheesemaking beginning in the early 1800s. According to the Wisconsin Historical Society, most of the earliest commercial dairy operations in Wisconsin made cheese because it kept longer than milk or butter at a time when storage and transportation were limited.
It was the state’s immigrant population that brought their cheesemaking traditions to Wisconsin, according to the Wisconsin Historical Society. Italians brought mozzarella, provolone and Gorgonzola. The French brought Camembert, brie and a variety of blue cheeses. The Germans brought Muenster and Limburger, and the English brought cheddar. Dutch immigrants brought Gouda and Edam. Wisconsin cheesemakers also developed original cheeses, like brick and colby.
Here, cheeSe connoiSSeur highlights some of Wisconsin’s most notable cheesemakers, including their history and what makes them unique.
ALPINAGE CHEESE
OAK CREEK, WI
Alpinage Cheese owner Orphee Paillotin moved to the U.S. from France in 2015, but his cheesemaking journey began after meeting his fiancé, Paula, the daughter of a dairy farmer and founder of Saxon Creamery.
“She encouraged me to become a cheesemaker and get my license,” he says.
Paillotin decided to focus on raclette, the only cheese Alpinage makes as of today.
“This is the cheese we focus on to start with, and we make it at our partner farm right here in Wisconsin,” notes Paillotin. “We first created it with raw milk, and switched last year to pasteurized milk.”
He then built a small dairy plant from scratch to control the cheese aging. The company now makes 20,000 pounds of cheese annually and works with four distributors that sell it nationally.
Orphee Paillotin, owner of Alpinage Cheese, Oak Creek, WI, holds a wheel of raclette.
This summer, the company will be moving into a brand new, state-of-the-art 2,000-square-foot warehouse that has a processing and packaging room as well as two dedicated aging rooms — one for its raclette and the other for a new natural rind cheese.
CARR VALLEY CHEESE
LA VALLE, WI
Carr Valley Cheese is owned by Sid Cook, a fourth-generation master cheesemaker whose family started making cheese in the late 1800s. In 1945, his parents bought a plant near Plain called
Irish Valley for $500; their house was attached.
“Sid literally grew up in the cheese plant,” says Elle Williams, director of sales and brand development. “He has memories riding his tricycle between vats and helping make cheese.”
Cook began making his own vats of cheese by age 12 and earned his cheesemaker license at 16.
Sid wanted to expand his offerings, so he decided to go on his own venture and purchase Carr Valley in 1986.
Carr Valley still has a network of local dairy farms that they purchase milk directly from, most for several generations. Cook expanded into mixed milk cheeses and unique recipes.
Today, Carr Valley has four plants and seven retail stores, with one central warehouse. Its cheese varieties include blue, cheddar and fontina, along with mixed milk cheeses.
CRAVE BROTHERS FARMSTEAD CHEESE WATERLOO, WI
Crave Brothers was initially a dairy farm started in 1981 by brothers Charlie, George, Mark and Tom Crave. At that time, there were 80 cows for milk production. They have since grown.
“In 2001, my parents Debbie and George decided they wanted to add value to our milk and start making cheese,” says Roseanne Crave, sales and marketing manager. Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese was born.
Its flagship line is award-winning fresh mozzarella.
“At the time Crave Cheese began, there weren’t many producers for this type of cheese,” Crave says. “We worked with the Center for Dairy Research in Madison, WI. They tested our milk for protein and butter fat, concluding it was best for producing fresh mozzarella.”
From there, the company expanded its portfolio to include other Italian fresh cheeses in addition to part skim farmer’s rope string cheese, Oaxaca and mascarpone.
“Looking at our customer base, we’ve had many long-term customers and distributors,” Crave notes.
HENNING CHEESE
KIEL, WI
Henning Cheese has been in business since 1914 and is now co-owned and run by the fourth generation of Hennings; brothers Kerry and Kert Henning are majority owners.
“My dad had been in the cheese business for 54 years. My son Zachary and nephew Joshua are following in my footsteps,” says Kerry Henning, who has been
a Master Cheesemaker since 1999.
One of the country’s last mammoth cheddar cheesemakers, Henning Cheese can produce cheeses from 150 up to 5,000 pounds.
“Grocery stores from around the country like to bring in the big wheels for special promotions and then cut and wrap for individuals,” Henning says.
The company makes cheddar the traditional, slow way, using great cultures. About 10 years ago, Henning Cheese began producing flavored cheddars. It now offers 30 different varieties.
HILL VALLEY DAIRY MILWAUKEE, WI
Established in 2015, Hill Valley Dairy began by selling cheese curds and cheddar at farmers markets. Although still a small business, it now offers its cheese lines wholesale for retail and foodservice.
“My older brother and his wife own a dairy farm, and I started in the cheese business to stay connected to the farm and utilize good milk for making cheese to sell,” says Ron Henningfeld, owner and cheesemaker.
The company is known for Luna and Alina, its two natural rind Alpine cheeses that are both aged for 18 months.
“I also still produce cheese curds and cheddar for local markets and Gouda styles, as well,” says Henningfeld. “About 15 months ago, the cheese factory I worked with moved out of their factory, and we took over their 4,000-square-foot space.”
The company also operates a retail space with its cheese and other brands, as well as a cheese bar.
HOOK’S CHEESE CO. MINERAL POINT, WI
Hook’s Cheese’s Tony Hook, who owns the company with his wife Julie and serves as president, started making cheese in 1970.
“We moved to Mineral Point and ran Buck Grove Co-op, then started Hook’s Cheese,” says Hook. ”I managed that for 11 years with Julie.”
At that time, in 1982, Julie entered the Cheese World Championships with Hook’s block colby, winning first place and best overall. This was significant, as she was the only woman cheesemaker to win this honor.
“In 1987, the co-op we managed was small and our pasteurizer needed upgrading, so we purchased a factory in Mineral Point,” says Hook. “The farmers closed the co-op and went into business with us.”
Due to the plant’s increased cold storage capacity, Hook’s began making more cheddars, aging cheeses five, seven, 10, 12 and 20 years.
In addition to growing its current lines, Hook’s has occasionally added to its lineup with lines like a truffle cheddar.
Joshua Henning, of Henning Cheese, flips cheese in the Kiel, WI, factory.
CHEESE TRAIL
ROELLI CHEESE HAUS
SHULLSBURG, WI
Fourth generation Master Cheesemaker and owner of Roelli Cheese Haus Chris Roelli recalls that his great-grandfather was cheesemaker for Hicks, a small Wisconsin cheese plant co-op.
“This was pre-electricity and pre-cooling, so they put together co-ops to store milk,” says Roelli. “At that time, there were little cheese plants every 3 miles in the state.”
Roelli’s great-grandfather, who immigrated from Switzerland, was making multiple cheese varieties.
The Roelli family bought shares of the co-op and privatized it to create Roelli Inc. in 1972.
“What’s unique is my great-grandfather made multiple cheese varieties, and we’ve gone full circle back to that making small batches,” says Roelli. “When my dad and grandpa made cheese, we were a large commodity cheddar producer, and there wasn’t viable competition.”
Roelli Cheese Haus is known for its cheddar blue hybrids, including Dunbarton and Red Rock.
Roelli Cheese Haus makes between 180,000 and 200,000 pounds of cheese a year on average, and its varieties have won major awards.
Wisconsin’s Heavy-Hitting Cheesemakers
BELGIOIOSO
Green Bay-based BelGioioso Cheese Inc.’s story began over a century ago when the great-grandfather of Errico Auricchio founded a cheese company. In 1979, Auricchio moved his family from Italy to Wisconsin to craft Italian cheeses.
Auricchio also brought over two Master Cheesemakers, Mauro and Gianni, who remain part of BelGioioso. They began producing provolone, Parmesan and Romano, eventually adding cheeses previously unknown in America, including mascarpone, creamy Gorgonzola, Italico and American Grana. Today, BelGioioso manufactures, ages, packages and ships over 30 varieties of specialty cheese with new cheeses continuously in development.
“Knowing the taste of good cheese and what the cheese needs, starting with fresh milk, simple recipes, time and temperature, are the art of cheesemaking,” says Sofia Auricchio Krans, the company’s fifth-generation cheesemaker.
BelGioioso procures fresh milk daily from dairy farms located within a 30-mile radius of the plants. The company continues to invest in its plants by upgrading, expanding, or building new.
WIDMER’S CHEESE CELLARS
THERESA, WI
John Widmer immigrated to Wisconsin from Switzerland in 1905 and became a cheesemaking apprentice before purchasing a cheese plant. He then taught his son to make brick cheese, and four generations later, the Widmer cheesemaking business is still thriving.
“I’m a fourth-generation cheesemaker, specializing in strong, washed rind cheese,” says Joey Widmer. “We still press our cheese during production using the same bricks that were used 100 years ago, and we’re the only ones who make it authentically.”
Widmer’s Cheese varieties include authentic cheddar and colby. Two years ago, the company started making award-winning Butterkäse, a full-cream buttery cheese.
“We started making Matterhorn Cheddar in 2019, which is an Alpine-style cheddar,” says Widmer. “In addition to trying to stick to the traditional methods of cheesemaking, we go through about 20,000 pounds of milk a day on average.”
Milk is procured from three small, local farms, all within 15 miles from Widmer’s plant. CC
LACLARE
LaClare Creamery in Malone, initially a hobby goat farm created in 1978, began cheesemaking in 2008 when Katie Fuhrmann, now also marketing director, rented space.
“In 2012, the site we’re on now was built,” says Alex Coenen, president. “We have the largest concentration of goats in our backyard to make our award-winning cheese.”
In 2019, LaClare Creamery started a plant expansion to grow its chevre capacity, since the cheese is 85% of its business; the remaining is hard cheese. It also recently expanded its cooler space.
Coenen says LaClare’s cheeses, including cheddar, mozzarella, Monterey jack and mixed milk Chandoka, are award winning and resonate with consumers.
“We have big windows and a visitor room that’s open to the public,” says Coenen.
“We have 12 different chevre flavors, with original; garlic and herb; honey and blueberry vanilla the most popular,” says Greg Hedrich, soft cheese plant manager.
Father and son, Joe and Joey Widmer, have fun with Widmer’s Cheese Cellars’ award-winning cheese.
