Trinidad and Tobago’s arts and culture travel magazine
Escape to the land of the hummingbird this carnival season
Exclusive feature with Viren Neel and a spotlight on Yerettê: Home of the Hummingbird
Welcome to Iëre Magazine. It’s an exciting time to visit our twin island and the home of carnival as we’re getting ready for our major cultural celebration. Carnival in Trinidad and Tobago is unlike anything you will ever experience elsewhere. There’s a saying that goes, “T&T is not a real place” and after dipping into Iëre’s first edition which gives a taste of island life but also unmasks the reality of living in a developing postcolonial nation, the idea of Trinidad and Tobago would seem surreal.
This pilot issue of Iëre highlights Trinidad and Tobago as a luxury tourist destination and welcomes you to the land of the hummingbird this carnival season with an idyllic photospread of the gorgeous beaches on the islands.
The first article introduces Carnival in Trinidad and Tobago and explains its history. We then venture into Carnival in 2025 and get a glimpse of what to expect while ‘On the Road with Bliss’.
This issue explores the culinary scene of Trinidad and Tobago as we spotlight Chef Rishi Ramoutar as he innovatively breaks the culinary norms by bringing fine dining to our local cuisine. We then explore a ‘Taste of T&T’ as we round-up some of our favourite fine dining restaurants on the islands.
For the main feature of this issue we hear from one of the country’s biggest names in music, Trinidadian singer and songwriter Viren Neel as he shares his road to success.
As this issue is all about embracing the country as the land of the hummingbird, the magazine spotlights Yerettê: The Home of the Hummingbird paired with some eye-catching photographs of the fascinating creature. West Indian Literature is a huge part of the global literary cannon so we’re giving you an exploration of our literature.
The Caribbean is known for its warm, sandy beaches with clear blue waters, so we decided to give you a fun way to discover Trinidad with ‘Beach Hopping Along the North Coast’ of the island.
We’re thrilled to have produced this magazine and have you here. We hope you enjoy everything this issue, and Trinidad and Tobago has to offer!
Makenna Ali Iëre Magazine Editor
Editor
Makenna Ali
Writer
Makenna Ali
Design
Makenna Ali
Illustration
Natesa Mohammed
Photography
Makenna Ali
Laura Ferriera
Dr Theo Ferguson
Jono Thompson
Marc Ramhit
Wesley Goorachan
Ins and Outs TT
The Seahorse Inn
Iëre is the original name given to Trinidad and Tobago by the Indigenous people: the Tainos and Kalinagos. It means ‘land of the hummingbird.’
Trinidad and Tobago is often regarded as the ‘Home of Carnival’ with our Carnival being the greatest show on earth. However, being decked out in pretty costumes, bedazzled in jewels, and surrounded by colourful feathers the history and meaning of carnival is often overlooked.
Carnival is held the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday at the beginning of the Lenten period. During colonisation by Spain and England in 1793, there was also an influx of French plantation and slave owners, and with them they brought their culture. The French created their Carnival which was described as a season of exuberant festivities consisting of elegant dinners, balls and hunting parties from Christmas to Ash Wednesday.
The African were originally banned from these events but they still had their own festivities in secret. They began mimicking and mocking their colonizers as they highlighted the barbaric treatment they received with rituals and folklore brought with them from Africa.
When the Emancipation Bill was passed, the Africans began to participate in the Carnival festivities from 1833. The Africans incorporated Kambule into the festivities. Kambule was originally celebrated on Emancipation Day, August first but subsequently it was moved and took place after midnight on Dimanche Gras, the Sunday before Carnival. Kambule is regarded as the precursor to our Carnival, it is where the roots of Calypso music began and evolved.
By Makenna Ali
Kambule is referred to by the British empire as a series of riots. However, in the Caribbean it is known as a harvest festival which consisted of dancing, chanting and drumming whilst burning sugar cane to the floor to get rid of reptiles and insects before harvesting.
In 1880, the celebration of Carnival was banned. However, a year later when the time for Carnival came, the colonisers were met with stick fighting, parading and drumming in the streets of the islands. The Africans began to reclaim the islands as their own as they rose up to carry-on in whatever manner they wanted, offending those who claimed them as their property.
With characters such as Dame Lorraines mocking the way the French colonisers dressed and portrayed themselves. Sailors mimicking the colonisers aboard the naval ships and the Jab Molassie portraying the Africans toiling on the plantations as devils with chains and ropes strapped around them to represent their enslavement.
Over time Carnival evolved into a liberating and inclusive festival to incorporate the cultures of others displaced on the island. Remnants of Carnival in the 18th century can still be found on the streets of Trinidad and Tobago. Be sure to pay the Jab Molassie when they come up beating a pitch oil tin and breathing fire with pitch oil trying to scare you. Carnival was and always will be a spiritual ritual and a rebellion against slavery and colonisation.
Surrender yourself to the world of the Enchanted. Explore the mysteries that lie beneath the realm of reality with Bliss.
By Makenna
This Carnival season, the theme of Bliss is Aura. Join their carnival band and engulf yourself in pure ecstasy. Unlock the magic this Carnival Monday and Tuesday on the road with Bliss. Pictured is the Colibri costume designed by Sheena Ali. She describes the aura of the costume as: “Vibrant and energetic, shimmering with a joyful light-heated presence that symbolizes agility, vitality and a zest for life”.
“Innovation respects tradition and tradition does not fear innovation”
Experience the integration of Trinbago cuisine and fine dining by Chef Rishi Ramoutar.
Chef Rishi is known for defying the norms of the culinary art as he combines his love for Trinidad and Tobago’s local cuisine to create new fusions and experiences at his restaurant.
His restaurant, 12 By Rishi is not just a lunch or dinner but an experience. Pictured is a Bake and Shark Bao which melds the popular Trinbagonian Street food ‘Bake and Shark’ made from a fried flat bread and fried shark with a medley of seasoned fruits, vegetables and chutneys with Asian cuisine.
Chef Rishi’s Bake and Shark Bao is bursting with flavor as the shark is succulently fried and perfectly paired with a garlic chadon beni sauce, pineapple chow, jalapenos leaving a hint of sweetness and a lasting kick.
Try Chef Rishi’s other dishes such as oxtail ramen, curry crab and dumpling ravioli, and fever grass crème brulé at his restaurant, 12 by Rishi located on Tragarete Road, Port-of-Spain Trinidad.
The Caribbean is known for its bold flavours and a myriad of fusions. In Trinidad and Tobago our local cuisine is integrated with flavours from around the world due to the melting pot of cultures displaced on the islands. Our food consists of a medley of South Asian, African, Latin America, Chinese and so much more, and even though it may sound overwhelming, it will be the most delicious soul food you will ever eat.
When traveling to a luxury travel destination like Trinidad and Tobago it’s only fair to eat at the best restaurants which offer a taste of the islands. Here are our top three restaurants to experience this carnival season.
Located in the capital of Trinidad, Port of Spain, Arazzi is a fine dining restaurant which offers an unforgettable dining experience. It offers an elegant yet cosy dining room with live entertainment and a space centred around food. The menu is carefully curated with the Chef’s choices with fine wagyu cuts and freshly caught seafood from the islands. The restaurant also offers a lounge with a variety of whiskeys, rums, original cocktails crafted with house made syrups along with the finest wines and the largest champagne collection found in the country.
Photography: Ins and Outs TT
Rooted on the beach front of Grafton in Black Rock, Tobago the Sea Horse Inn offers freshly caught seafood with a breathtaking view. The restaurant gives an intimate dining experience and creates a romantic atmosphere with the warm breeze of the Caribbean Sea. The Sea Horse Inn is considered Tobago’s premier dining experience award-winning food and services, an exceptional wine list and an extensive bar selection. The restaurant is also a great location for viewing leatherback turtles nesting between the months of March and September.
By Makenna Ali
Situated on a marina in Chaguaramas Trinidad, Sails Restaurant promises an unforgettable dining experience. The ambience, food and drink radiate island vibes whilst indulging in freshly caught seafood, sipping on exotic craft cocktails and enjoying a breathtaking view of the sea with the mountains in the background.
By Makenna Ali
Acclaimed Trinidadian singer/songwriter Viren Neel, he shares his inspirations, his Caribbean heritage and the big shoes he’s well on his way to filling.
Viren’s first song, ‘Change’ became the fifth most-streamed song in Trinidad and Tobago four years ago when it was released. Viren shares, “I significantly remember it being above ‘Watermelon Sugar’ by Harry Styles”.
Viren dabbles in the genres of indie, alternative, and folk from what he describes as an ‘era perspective’ as he finds his comfort in the early 60s and 70s and tries to emulate that vibe in his music.
For Viren, music has always been there for him. He shares, “Music has always been a forever-thing for me. From the time I was four-years old when I first gained consciousness, I knew all I wanted to be was a rockstar”. For the first couple years of his life Viren held onto the idea of being a rockstar with no idea how to attain this dream. Coming from an Indo-Caribbean background, the image that inspired his dream was Shah Rukh Khan singing Pretty Woman in Kal Ho Naa Ho. He shares, “I’ve reached the point of understanding that I love music and creating it and everything else which includes being a rockstar comes after”.
Viren explains there are different stages of his life defined by music. From four to ten years old he was playing around with different instruments trying to figure out which was best suited to him. He learnt to play the piano, the dholak and at ten years old he received his first electric guitar starter pack. He explains, “Within two years I explored all there was to be explored and I felt as though there was nothing else to be taught”. By the time he was 15 he began figuring out the type of genres he likes. Viren says, “I found comfort in the 60s and 70s especially with folk music”.
When Viren got to the point of mastering guitar, he became stagnant and started thinking about his next steps. He explains, “I thought to myself I can play whatever song I wanted on the guitar, but I can’t hear the lyrics. I just wanted to be able to sing to myself”. The first song he learnt to sing was ‘All Along the Watchtower’ by Jimi Hendrix, which was originally a song by Bob Dylan.
In 2016 when techno, dance and EDM music began gaining popularity, Viren explained he wanted to go against this and create meaningful soul music. In high school, he would gain gigs at different events, but not everyone was always supportive of him. He shares, “I remember after a few of my first performances, my closest friends said to me you sound like a frog never do that again. However, I knew at the end of the day I was going to be a rockstar”.
Amidst paving the way to being a rockstar, Viren shares his struggles with anxiety, “This year is this first year I learnt to handle my anxiety when it came to performing but I still get scared and nervous, I just know how to control it and have faith in myself that I will execute a good performance”.
Viren’s songs are inspired through his lived experiences. He says, “To write is to live and to live is to write. A lot of the songs are about general things I encounter in my life”. Viren began writing his first song, ‘Change’ at 18 years old when he was going through a myriad of teenage emotions. Two years later, during the pandemic in 2020 Viren revisited the song and finished it, releasing his first EP. He explains, “ ‘Change’ is still my favourite song because it’s the truest song I’ve ever written. I needed those two years of growth and maturity to figure out the rest of the song”.
There are two ways in which Trinidad and Tobago finds itself in Viren’s music. One way is in the contents, “I come from a background that ruled by writing and academia because my uncle is Sir V.S. Naipaul and he was always larger than life to me”. In his songwriting Viren wants to pay homage to the Nobel Peace Prize winning author by following in his footsteps.
Viren speaks about his uncle, “In his book ‘A Writer’s People’, what V.S. experienced in his life in the 1940s as a writer and how he felt being a creative in Trinidad resonates with me because his background is the exact background I come from”.
“I want to write about Trinidad and Tobago in an honest but beautiful way because its home.”
Last year Viren began to incorporate Caribbean beats such as reggae and Chutney in his music. He is currently working on an EP which skillfully manipulates reggae beats with psychedelic beats, mixed with folk music, calypso and Soca. Viren also pays homage to his IndoCaribbean identity by including a sitar in an Indie-rock song. Viren says, “This EP is my love for Trinidad and Tobago created into unique sounds”.
As Viren is well on his way to becoming the rockstar he once dreamed of being with a UK Tour in the works for 2025 and a line up for this carnival season. Be sure to catch Viren’s performance this carnival season at ‘Iz We Festival’ 2025.
“This sanctuary was created as an educational tool to spend time helping others understand the true nature of the hummingbird and what makes them special, magical, mysterious and the most fascinating creatures in world.”
By Makenna Ali
Photography: Wesley Goorachan
Dr Theo Ferguson was born and raised in Grenada. He has worked in leadership development which led him to travel far and wide. He claims he has been to every country in the world. Whilst working in South Africa he met his wife, Gloria who is from Trinidad. He has been living in Trinidad for 60 years between the mountains in the Maracas Valley where he created the hummingbird sanctuary, Yerettê: The Home of the Hummingbird.
Q: What sparked your interest in hummingbirds?
A: I went through most of my life without knowing anything about hummingbirds but whilst I was in South Africa I learnt the value of time and silence. When I moved to Trinidad, I longed for that silence so I went into the mountains to spend some time with myself. I didn’t want people to think I was crazy, so I took a camera which made me look purposeful. After that, naturally I gained an interest in photography and I began photographing flora and fauna around the country, but I was particularly attracted to birds, specifically hummingbirds. I was very focused on the hummingbird, and I realized they are the most fascinating creature to exist. I thought to myself that we have been living with this piece of magic for years and I was not aware. I decided to start letting the world know about this creature through photographs and I discovered just how little people in Trinidad and Tobago knew about the hummingbird, yet we call this country the land of the hummingbird. After a while I decided to attract hummingbirds to my garden. That’s how I began hanging feeders and then something happened. The birds came in massive numbers, larger than I expected and it became a spectacle which my wife and I enjoyed. I asked my wife, why don’t we share this with others?
Q: Why did you decide to share the hummingbird sanctuary?
A: Most Trinbagonians grow up and become adults and know nothing
about hummingbirds, but they are familiar with it because it’s something that has always been around in their lives. However, that familiarity is an illusion. This sanctuary was created as an educational tool to spend time helping others understand the true nature of the hummingbird and what makes them special, magical, mysterious and the most fascinating creatures in the world. Yerettê has so far educated locals and people from every continent. When this sanctuary first opened, within the first year it became the top-rated tourist attraction in Trinidad and Tobago.
Q: What makes the hummingbird the most fascinating creature?
A: The hummingbird has been around for over 50 million years. It is essentially a dinosaur. The indigenous people were the first to see these creatures when they came to the Americas, and hummingbirds are only found in the Americas. Hummingbirds have an unusual biology, they are the smallest birds, the fastest flying birds, the most acrobatic birds and the most colourful birds in the world. When the indigenous people saw the hummingbird, they were amazed because it looked like it didn’t belong to this world. They saw the hummingbirds as spiritual creatures coming from another world and elevated it to becoming special. They made them into sacred creatures and even called them gods. Even millions of years later, hummingbirds are still sacred and spiritual creatures to the remaining indigenous people.
Q: What do you want your visitors to gain from visiting Yerettê?
A: I want them to leave here totally surprised and I want them to spread the word of Trinidad and Tobago being the land of the hummingbird and have the country reclaim the name of Iëre, land of the hummingbird.
By Makenna Ali
Photography: Makenna Ali
West Indian literature is an essential part of the global literary cannon. The West Indies has a history of remarkable writers such as Derek Walcott, Jean Rhys and V.S. Naipaul winning the Nobel Peace Prize in Literature. These writers explored themes surrounding their West Indian identity from migration, colonization, displacement and slavery.
Well into the 21st century the West Indies continues to produce future literary legends as they explore the challenges of being a postcolonial writer. Here are some of our favorite literary works by past, present and future literary legends.
By Samuel Selvon
Written in exile whilst living in London by Trinidadian author
Samuel Selvon this novel is the first to focus on the Windrush generation in England. The novel follows a group of West Indian immigrants who moved to London in search of a better life. This humorous novel radiates compassion and comfort. It is considered a literary classic in West Indian literature as Selvon is praised for introducing the ‘national language’ tradition to the literary world. This tradition uses a creolized English that reflects the speech patterns of the Caribbean people.
By Sir V.S. Naipaul
This book is referred to as ‘The West Indian Literature Bible’ It is a collection of interconnecting short stories written by the Trinidadian-born author about his childhood memories. The collection is filled with comedy, social commentary and the realities of living in a colonial nation. It is set in a derelict corner of Port-of-Spain during World War II with the same narrator as he shares his experience growing up on Miguel Street over the years.
By Jean Rhys CBE
Jean Rhys was a DominicaBritish writer in exile. Her novel Wide Sargasso Sea is a literary classic that is a prequel of another literary classic, Jane Eyre. The novel serves a postcolonial and feminist piece of literature as it describes the background of Mr Rochester’s wife. It is told from the wife, Antoinette Cosway’s perspective from her childhood in Jamaica, her slave-trading family that lost their wealth when slavery was abolished and how she became ‘the mad creole in the attic.’
By Jamaica Kincaid
Jamaica Kincaid is an Antiguaborn American writer. Her works are often autobiographical in nature, and she is known for a feminist exploration of colonialism in her works. Annie John is a semi-autobiographical coming-of-age novel that follows a girl’s journey from childhood to adulthood. This novel emits nostalgia as it realistically depicts what it us like to be a girl growing up in the West Indies.
A contemporary classic by Trinidadian-born British author Monique Roffey which tells the heart-wrenching tale of the mermaid of the Black Conch. Set on a fictional island, Black Conch. The bittersweet novel follows a fisherman who falls in love with a woman that has been cursed. She has been swimming the Caribbean Sea for centuries as a lonely mermaid. She desperately tries to put the sea behind her as she becomes enthralled by the local fisherman.
By Makenna Ali
Photography: Makenna Ali
You’ve heard of bar hopping and pub crawls but get ready for the island version, beach hopping. The Caribbean is known for its idyllic beaches, with warm and sparkling crystal clear waters and sandy shores. Beach hopping is a great way to get an overview of the islands, and it may even lead to discovering your favourite spot on the island. Here are our top five beaches hidden behind the vast expanse of Northern Range mountains.
The first stop along your beach hopping adventure needs to be one of the most popular beaches in the country, Maracas Bay. It is located near the capital of Trinidad Port of Spain and is home to the popular
The entrance to this beach is not easy to find nor is the 100-step trek down a mountain to the beach but it is worth the challenge. It promises calm, clear waters and picturesque surrounding that makes it feel surreal. The beach is filled with amazing spots to explore from caves, sea arches and even an islet.
A secluded and stunning beach with a mysterious locked door. The beach is surrounded by islets and a coastal walk which connects some of the islets. Along the walk is a locked door in the middle of the
street food Bake and Shark. With a variety of vendors lined up along shore, be sure to grab a cold coconut or a snow cone spiked with your alcohol of choice to pair with your Bake and Shark.
Located a 20-minute drive from Maracas Bay, Las Cuevas promises calm, warm waters with a secluded feel no matter how busy the beach is. Be sure to find the local vendors roaming along the shore and grab yourself a refreshing cold coconut or a fresh sugar cane juice. The beach is named for the beautiful caves surrounding it, which can be explored. The becah is also a great place for discovering rock pools.
pathway. What lies behind the door? Venture to Damien’s Bay to find out.
Blanchisseuse Beach requires a long scenic drive along the Northern Range mountains, but the drive is well worth it. The beach is located midway through the North Cost of Trinidad with a lagoon and river at the East end of the beach meaning you can either swim in fresh water or salt water.
By Makenna Ali
Sustain T&T Screen Festival 23/01/25
A film festival dedicated to education, information exchange and community building around the ideas of sustainable living. This film festival will portray short films, and documentaries from local creatives at the Queen’s Hall.
Crazy Catholic’s Pirates of the West Indies
Crazy Catholic, a national comedian in Trinidad and Tobago brings a local twist to the Hollywood cult classic. See this comedic parody at the National Academy of performing arts.
Calypso Queen Show 02/02/25
An iconic show and competition at the National Academy of Performing Arts. This is where female calypso artists, from legends to the up-and-coming battle each other in song to gain the title of ‘Calypso Queen’.
Fete with the Saints 08/02/25
The first fete (party) of the Carnival season and generally regarded as the best. Fete with the Saints is organised by St. Mary’s Boys’ College alumni and is an all-inclusive fete (party) with live performances from top Soca, Chutney and Dancehall artists.
Iz We Festival 25/02/25
Led by KES the Band, Iz We Festival features international artists from across the world in collaboration with local Soca and Chutney artists including Shaggy, Burna Boy, Patrice Roberts and much more.
Hyatt LIME 26/02/25
Hyatt Regency Trinidad and Tobago’s fete is the ultra-all-inclusive event of the Carnival season. It takes place on the waterfront of the hotel giving guests a stunning view. There will be special guests and live performances by some of the biggest names in Soca and Chutney Soca, along with an array of cuisines from local street food to prime cut steaks, freshly caught seafood and bottomless drinks.
Jamboree 27/02/25
A celebration of Carnival and culture. This fete differs from the others as it is a cooler fete. Meaning you get to walk with a cooler and your own drinks. Jamboree promises a good time with performances from KES the Band, Bunji Garlin and much more.
International Soca Monarch 28/02/25
Soca artists from across the world gather in Trinidad and Tobago to vie for the crown of International Soca Monarch for uptempo and face-paced songs, and International Groovy Soca Monarch for slowerpaced songs.
02/03/25
If you haven’t experienced a sunrise fete, this is your chance. Soaka street begins at 3am and takes place whilst the sunrises until 9am. Be sure to where white because when the sun comes out, so does the water and paint being splashed on people. The fete involves live performances and a variety of street food, and drink on offer.
J’ouvert is a traditional carnival celebration that takes place on Carnival Monday in the morning and marks the beginning of Carnival. It begins at 3am before dawn and ends by mid-morning around 9am. J’ouvert means the dawn of a new day. J’ouvert is the remnants of Kambule and it celebrates freedom from slavery. It consists of getting drenched in mud, oil, water and paint whilst partying on the streets of Trinidad and Tobago.
Carnival Monday can either be celebrated from the sidelines or you can join the street festivities with a Carnival band and enjoy an allinclusive experience of bottomless drinks, breakfast, lunch and snacks whilst chipping on the road.
The fun from Carnival Monday rolls over into Tuesday with the biggest parade of the bands . It takes place with a competition for the best costume. Along with a Carnival King and Queen show. The best way to enjoy Carnival Tuesday is with a Carnival band, decked out in a full costume with feathers, jewels and enjoying bottomless drinks on the road.
Last Jam marks the end of the Carnival season until next year. It is the last party to say goodbye to Carnival with people reusing their Monday wear or Carnival costume one last time before the festivities come to an end.
With Trinidad and Tobago being a melting pot of cultures, all religious holidays are given as a public holiday as festivities take place across the country. In Trinidad and Tobago, Eid al Fitr is marked by visits to local mosques, offering charity to the less fortunate and joining family and friends for celebration.
31/03/25
An annual holiday which commemorates the repeal of laws that prohibited the activities of the Shouter or Spiritual Baptist faith. This holiday is celebrated by a parading and enjoying their religion in the open without having to hide.
Held at Hotel Normandie in the mountains of Trinidad. Mixx Tings Festival is headlined by Viren Neel. Taking place amongst the greenery, this festival is the place for all things indie, alternative music and only good vibes.
- 13/03/25
Described by the NY Times as a ‘blazing electrifying feast of rhythm and colour’. Man Better Man is a musical written by local playwright Errol Hill. This play is a feel-good comedy about stick fighting and life in the West Indies. Catch this play at Trinidad’s theatre workshop.
– 21/04/25
The Tobago Jazz Experience enlivens the laidback island of Tobago. This festival features local indigenous music forms, along with contemporary jazz music with some huge name such as Boyz II Men, Grace Jones, Shaggy and much more. The musical experience is soothing and exciting.
18/04/25 – 20/04/25
Enjoy Easter weekend in Trinidad and Tobago which involves trekking to the beach from Good Friday to camp on the shore and enjoy countless sea baths throughout the long weekend. Or head to Queen’s Park Savannah to enjoy kite flying competitions on Easter Sunday.
A true sporting spectacle in Tobago that was started as the poor man’s equivalent to horse racing. The event begins with street parade where booths offer local crafts, food and drink. Many residents also open their homes to the visitors and provide delicious local cuisine for the occasion.
Indian Arrival Day is celebrated in various countries across the Caribbean and South Africa to commemorate the displacement of people from the India subcontinent being displaced on various nations as indentured labourers by the European colonisers. In Trinidad and Tobago, the day is celebrated by parades showcasing Indo-Caribbean cultures and indulging in Indo-Caribbean dishes and delicacies.