Crochet now magazine issue 7 2016

NEW!

JANE CROW FOOT ’S CROC HET-A LONG

We love British wool!

continues inside

THE UK’S NO.1 MAGAZINE FOR CROCHET PATTERNS

34

wonderful woolly

Start your Christmas crochet tonight!

PATTERNS

Pretty winter wrap

GORGEOUS BLANKETS

you’ll love

CUTE TOYS

build-your-own snowman +jjjjjjjjjjjjj dress-up doll ISSUE 7 UK £6.99 £5.99

4 exclusive

designs inside CN07 P01 COVER-v3.indd 1

Sweet gift ideas for children

Inspire Imagine Create

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Hello...

ISSUE

SEVEN!

Depending on when you pick up this month’s copy of Crochet Now, it’s either just about to be, is currently or has just been UK Wool Week, so what better time to celebrate our love for this fabulous fibre? This issue is dedicated to all things sheep-y, with patterns using yarn spun from different kinds of sheep, from Merino to British Blue, as well as wool in combination with other fibres that give such a beguiling variety of properties.

14 57

Take, for example, issue 7’s two show-stopper blanket designs. Liz Lovick’s Winter Solstice (page 16) uses gorgeously soft imported Merino, while Rebecca Armstrong’s Bullseye Blanket (page 24) flies the flag for the Best of British in West Yorkshire Spinners’ brilliant Aire Valley. Or how about Liz Ward’s Sheep Draught Excluder (page 46), which uses a brilliant wool boucle yarn to create adorable sheep toys you’ll love!

If you’re not, historically, a big user of wool yarns in your crochet, maybe your first stop should be to hear what regular columnist Kerry Lord from TOFT (page 20) and top designer Amanda Perkins (AKA Queenie Amanda) (page 28) have to say on the subject. They might just convince you to down acrylic (for a few projects at least) and pick up a quality wool yarn that might just be bred, spun and manufactured on your very own doorstep for a price much lower than you might expect.

84

As well as all this sheep-y goodness, we’ve got even more exciting projects in this issue. Jane Crowfoot’s Sunshine and Showers continues over on page 50, as does the Big Mandala Swap with a brilliant Rainbow Mandala pattern from Lynne Rowe (page 73).

This month, Lynne’s also launching a new feature with us called Daisy May’s Wardrobe (page 57) – a super cute dress-up doll whose clothes rail we’ll be furnishing with plenty more outfits in the months to come.

All this, just in time to start your crochet for Christmas! So good luck and, until next time, happy hooking!

50 Hugh Metcalf Editor hugh.metcalf@practicalpublishing.co.uk

24

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Contents

26

54 Subscribe today and get this brilliant hook set for free!

38

16 Projects 14 CALEDONIAN HEATHER SCARF A quick and easy make that really is a perfect gift!

16 WINTER SOLSTICE BLANKET Gorgeous lacy snowflakes make for a real showstopper of a blanket 22 FLYING THE FLAG CUSHION Using a fabulous British yarn, this design has us coming over all patriotic!

34 SPICED BERRY SHAWL We love this gorgeous design, made exclusively by the Wendy Design Team for Crochet Now! 38 FELTED RAINBOW MESSENGER Master the gentle art of felting with our step-by-step guide!

42 CROSSHATCHED COWL Tackle a basic cable pattern for a stylish way to keep warm this winter 46 SHEEP DRAUGHT EXCLUDER Adorable sheep to keep the cold at bay

24 BULLSEYE BLANKET Get creative with circles for a modern, mod-ish inspired throw

48 SLOE BERRY BERET A cleverly constructed idea makes for a really fun hat pattern

30 CROP CIRCLES BLANKET Amanda Perkins takes a simple design and makes it dazzle with colour

54 DAMSON JACKET Ruth Maddock’s winter coat is a style staple for little ones

4

57 DAISY-MAY’S WARDROBE Our brand-new feature sees Lynne Rowe start our very own dress-up doll. This issue, make the basic doll pattern, the first set of clothes and a Halloween costume!

62 BIG DIPPER COAT This chunky jacket uses wool and alpaca blend yarn for a really warm way to prepare yourself for the coming months 77 CHRISTMAS SPARKLE Use your free gift to create fun little baubles 81 DO YOU WANT TO BUILD A SNOWMAN? Mix and match snowmen for a fun, interactive Chrstmas display 84 ROBIN CUSHION Part festive fun, part country house chic, this cushion has a year-round place in your home!

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

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Contents

34

81 30

Need some help?

42 Regulars 9 LET’S LOOK AT WHAT’S NEW Here are the new woolly things that have made our month 20 TOFT TALK TOFT’s Kerry Lord wants you to join the flock celebrating UK Wool Week 26 SUBSCRIBE TODAY This great offer will make sure you’re never short of a crochet hook again!

28 MY LIFE IN COLOUR Designer Amanda Perkins talks about the importance of colour in her creative process 50 JANE CROWFOOT’S MYSTERY CROCHET-ALONG Celebrate October with bobbly pumpkins!

66 THE YARN REVIEW British wool fibre goes under the microscope for this month’s review 70 THE BIG MANDALA SWAP Find out how to join in, as well as the local yarn shops accepting your mandala packages!

73 THE BOOK CLUB Lynne Rowe’s new book of fabulous mandalas is our favourite this month

Our patterns go through several checks for accuracy, but sometimes errors do slip through the gaps.

Before contacting the editor, head to www.crochetnow.co.uk/category/errata to see if there’s already a fix – if not, let us know by email at hugh.metcalf@practical publishing.co.uk

95 ABBREVIATIONS Learn your dc from your BLO with Crochet Now magazine’s abbreviation guide

86 HOW TO READ A PATTERN Want to know how to tackle a Crochet Now pattern and learn how to read a crochet chart? Head here first

96 COMING NEXT ISSUE Get last-minute gift ideas in the nick of time to save Christmas!

89 THE BASICS The very basic stitches you’ll need for most of the magazine’s patterns

98 THE YARN STASH DIARIES Designer Lynne Rowe tackles her yarn stash, one project at a time www.crochetnow.co.uk | 5

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wonderful

WOOL! This issue is all about celebrating this fabulous fibre and our sheep-y friends, making the most of its fantastic qualities as a yarn for crochet. Our designers have used wool for blankets, toys, baby patterns, scarves and a chunky warm jacket, really showing the versatility of wonderful, wonderful wool!

WIN!

If we show your make in the next issue, you’l l win a bundle of new Paintbox yarns from www.love crochet.com

SHOW US YOUR MAKES!

Lesley Tokes, Zigga cardigan, issue 1

Kerry Taylor, Liquorice Allsorts afghan, issue 3

Emma Jayne, Lady Mermaidy, issue 5

Tag us with your Crochet Now makes on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter, or send them by email to hugh.metcalf@practicalpublishing.co.uk for your chance to win a fab prize!

CN07 P06 Readers makes.indd 6

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07/09/2016 17:3

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Discover all the ideas, inspiration and crafting supplies you could ever dream of!

S 2016 AU T U M N S H O W

Crafts for Christmas/ Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts

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09/09/2016 14:35

News

Let’s

LOOK AT

what’s

NEW

These are the yarns, patterns, books and tidbits of woolly wonder that have made our month

Fabulous Foxgloves Picture a sea of foxgloves atop a sun-bathed, grassy hill, and this will give you an idea of the beautiful blanket designs in Amanda Perkins’s latest pattern collection. Foxgloves is a stunning exploration of colour in three projects, from bright, warm pinks, to cool greens, invoking images of the British countryside on an early summer afternoon. We caught up with Amanda this month on page 28 to find out more. You can visit www.amandascrochetblog.blogspot.co.uk to download the eBook.

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News

Tape-tastic!

We love these bright tape measures available from www.oakroomshop.co.uk Available from £6.99, they are sure to add a pop of colour to your project bag.

Sketch it Stitch it Have you ever wanted to have a go at designing your own graphghan, or have lots of ideas for a Fair Isle project but not sure how to visualise it?

The new Sketch it Stitch It books from Make It Betty are the perfect notebooks for design doodling, especially designed for crafters! Available in two designs, these beautiful notebooks are only £7.99 each and are the perfect size to carry on the go for whenever inspiration hits you. Buy yours from www.makeitbetty.etsy.com

TOFT: The magazine

Have you got your hands on the new TOFT Quarterly magazine yet? The autumn edition is practically bursting with great patterns, including a new crochet pattern from the celebrated Edward’s Menagerie range.

Not only that, there is all the latest news from TOFT, upcoming events, competitions, the making of the new Edward’s Imaginarium and even some 10th birthday celebration excitement! Perfect for TOFT fans, old and new, there promises to be something for everyone in the magazine. Plus, there is a FREE bonus PDF mini magazine with each issue if you subscribe for the year!

Visit www.thetoftalpacashop.co.uk to get your copy.

A good Aura Sirdar has revealed another new yarn for winter, and it’s a bit of a winner. Aura is a beautifully soft, chunky, colour effect yarn that comes in eight shades, each made up of gorgeous colour combinations.

Find it soon at your local stockist.

10

Yarns of steel!

Tin II is a careful blend of lustrous, smooth fibre with slightly bulkier wool, all handblended using 100% UK-based fibre! Spun to both 4-ply and DK, this limited-edition yarn from Blacker Yarns is available in Silver Grey and seven dyed shades, all named after Cornish tin mines. Visit www.blackeryarns.co.uk for stockists.

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

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News

Stylecraft’s second blog tour Stylecraft has been busy planning this year’s blog tour, following the success of last year’s great offering. 12 popular knitting and crochet bloggers (including our own Jane Crowfoot) will be inspiring crafters and hosting giveaways throughout the tour and two new colour packs are available to win in Special Aran and Chunky, featuring its six newest shades. It starts on 24th October, so keep an eye on Stylecraft’s Facebook, Twitter and Instagram to know which bloggers are taking part and for your chance to win.

Perfect for this cowl on p42!

Yarn Stories now in store

Coming to a cinema near you We all know of crocheted mermaid tails, but how about a FULL crochet body suit? Perhaps the stuff of nightmares, nevertheless we are very still excited to go and see YARN, a weird and wonderful documentary about all things wool! Out now in the UK for a limited time, watch the trailer at www.yarnthemovie.com and find a screening near you. We might yet be turned around on the body suits…

Due to popular demand, Yarn Stories will soon be available to buy from a yarn shop near you! It was originally only available to purchase online, but soon you will see and feel for yourself the great quality that these Yorkshire spinners have to offer.

UK Wool Week It’s not just Crochet Now that is celebrating all things wool this month! Across the country, retailers, industries and more will be united in The Campaign for Real Wool’s UK Wool Week. There will be a whole host of activity from 10th – 16th October – for more on what you can do to support the campaign, visit www.campaignforwool.org

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News

Woolly wonder New from DMC, Woolly 5 is a new soft and cosy Merino wool, perfect for when you want to inject some luxury into your projects. It’s suited to any season, and being chunkier than Aran, it is incredibly easy to work with. It’s available soon in 26 shades, locate your nearest stockist at www.dmccreative.co.uk

Let’s

TALK SHOP! Remember When Coleshill

This month we’re catching up with Kim Badcock to hear about goings on at Remember When, a charming shop that mixes antiques, collectables and knitting Hi Kim! Tell us a little bit about how Remember When came to be I am an antiques dealer by profession but knitting and crochet are both passions of mine. We opened in 2011, originally just to sell antiques and collectables, but that market alone wasn’t buoyant, so my husband suggested we sell wool, patterns etc. It was the best decision we ever made! There hadn’t been a yarn shop in Coleshill for over 12 years and we’ve gone from strength to strength.

What can crochet enthusiasts expect to find at the shop?

You will find a good selection of yarn, and patterns from garments through to cushion covers, throws and toys.

We sell hardback crochet books and magazines, and vintage patterns for items such as doilies and table runners. We also have all sorts of crochet hooks for whatever you’ve looking for.

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What’s the best thing about your job?

I am very fortunate to be surrounded by a wonderful array of colour every day, at work as well as home! When reps come to see me with their new wares, it’s like Christmas: they open their cases and I just want to squish all the wonderfully colourful balls of wool! I know all my regular customers well, and enjoy meeting everyone who comes into the shop – even a local Lord pops in! However, it is hard work as I predominately run the shop on my own and deal with everything from stocking the shelves to sweeping the floor.

Finally, is there anything exciting coming up that you think our readers should know about?

I run a beginners’ crochet class every Tuesday 1.30-3.30pm.

I hope to run a workshop for Tunisian crochet, as this seems to have become popular again. The shop will also be featured in the TV programme Antiques Road Trip soon – I am proud to say that this is the third time they have filmed in the shop!

Remember When, 80 High Street, Coleshill, Birmingham B46 3AH www.rememberwhenshop.co.uk 01675 466 418

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

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Scarf

To keep the edge neat, on the last dc of each row, work into post of stitch below rather than into the top of the stitch as normal

Zoe Potrac 14

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

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Scarf

CALEDONIAN HEATHERSCARF Inspired by the Highlands and made using brilliant yarn produced in the UK, this winter scarf really is the best of British

DK

4mm

★ Beginner friendly Yarn used Woolyknit DK Classics 4 balls in purple (MC), 2 balls each in Powder Blue (CC3) & Navy (CC4), 1 ball each in cream (CC1), red (CC2)

About the yarn DK; 96m per 50g ball; 100% supersoft wool

Tension 20 sts and 17 rows = 10cm measured over patt of (1 dc, 1 ch)

Hook used 4mm

Other supplies tapestry needle

Sizing Finished scarf measures 175x30cm

Start crocheting With CC1, chain 62.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, *1 dc, 1 ch, miss 1 ch; rep from * to last ch, 1 dc. Turn. 31 dc, 30 ch-sps Row 2 & all remaining rows: 2 ch (counts as first dc and first ch), *1 dc, 1 ch, miss 1ch-sp; rep from * to last st, 1dc in last st. Turn.

Colour sequence for each repeat: Rows 1-2: CC1 Rows 3-4: CC2 Rows 5-8: CC3 Rows 9-12: CC4 Rows 13-32: MC Rows 33-36: CC4 Rows 37-40: CC3 Rows 41-42: CC2 Rows 43-44: CC1 Follow this sequence for a total of 7 repeats.

Fasten off.

Create the perpendicular stripes with yarn threaded double through a tapestry needle.

Weave over and under the chain spaces along the length of the scarf, being careful not to miss a row. Weave 10 lengths of doubled yarn as follows:

With CC4, through the 14th and 15th ch-sps.

With CC1, through the 16th and 17th ch-sps .

With CC2, through the 18th and 19th ch-sps.

With CC3, through the 20th to 23rd ch-sps.

Stripes are positioned deliberately offcentre; if you prefer them to be centred, weave them between chain spaces 11 through 20.

When weaving the stripes along the length of the scarf, take care to not pull too tightly or the scarf will gather up. Ensure scarf lies flat before fastening off the ends

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Blanket

Don’t worry if your snowflakes do not lie flat, once the blanket is washed and dried flat the snowflakes will spread out in all their glory!

Liz Lovick 16

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

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Blanket

Winter solstice

BLANKET

In the first of her four seasonal makes, Liz Lovick’s gorgeous block designs will have you praying for a snow day Start crocheting DK

4mm

★ Basic stitches Yarn used Scheepjes Merino Soft 9 balls in Raphael 602 (MC), 3 balls each in Cezanne 617 (A), Seurat 637 (B) and Lautrec 630 (C)

About the yarn DK; 100m per 50g ball; 100% superwash Merino wool

Tension Each square measures approximately 15cm wide when blocked

Hook used 4mm

Other supplies tapestry needle

Sizing 126x157cm

Snowflake 1 (make 5 with A, 4 with B, 3 with C) With MC, chain 6, sl st in first ch to close ring.

Rnd 1: [8 ch, 1 dc in ring] 8 times.

Rnd 2: Sl st in BLO of each ch to top of first 8ch-sp, *8 ch, 1 dc in same 8ch-sp, 2 ch, 1 dc in next 8ch-sp; rep from * 7 times more, sl st to join.

Rnd 3: *[3 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1dtr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 3 dc] in next 8ch-sp, 1 dc in next 2 ch-sp; rep from * 7 times more, sl st to join.

Fasten off and break yarn.

Change to Colour. Sl st to join in any dtr, 1 ch.

Rnd 4: *1 dc in top of dtr, 3 ch, miss 2 sts, 1 tr in next st, 2 ch, miss 5, 1 tr in next st, 5 ch, miss 2, 1 dtr in next st, 5 ch, miss 2, 1 tr in next st, 2 ch, miss 5, 1 tr, 3 ch; rep from * 3 times more, sl st to join.

Rnd 5: 1 ch, *[2 dc, 1 htr] in 3ch-sp, 2 tr in 2ch-sp, [1 htr, 3 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 dtr] in 5ch-sp, 1 ch, [1 tdtr, 1tr, 1 htr, 3 dc, 1 htr] in 5ch-sp, 2 tr in 2ch-sp, [1 htr, 2 dc] in 3ch-sp; rep from * ending with 1 htr, 1 dc, sl st to join.

Rnd 6: 3 ch, miss 1, *1 tr in each st to 1chsp at corner, [1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr] in 1ch-sp; rep from * 3 times more, 1 tr in each st to end of round, sl st to join. Fasten off and break yarn.

Snowflake 2 (make 4 with A, 3 with B and 5 with C) With MC, chain 6, sl st in first ch to close ring.

Rnd 1: 16 dc in ring.

Rnd 2: 5 ch, miss 1 st, 1 tr, [1 tr, 2 ch, miss 1 st, 1 tr] around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg 5ch to join.

Rnd 3: Sl st to first sp, [3 ch, 1 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr] in first sp, {[2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr] in next sp} around, sl st in top of first st to join.

Rnd 4: Sl st to first sp, [3 ch, 2 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr] in first sp, {[3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr] in next sp} around, sl st to join. Fasten off and break yarn.

Change to Colour. Join with sl st in any 3chsp, 1 ch.

Rnd 6: 1 dc in 3ch-sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in sp between trebles, 3 ch, 1 dc in 3ch-sp, 1 ch, [1 dtr, 3 ch, 1 dtr, 5 ch, 1 dtr, 3 ch, 1 dtr] in sp between trebles, 1 ch; rep from * 3 times more, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 7: 3 ch, *[4 tr in 3ch-sp] twice, 1 tr in 1ch-sp, 4 tr in 3ch-sp, [3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] in 5chsp, 4 tr in 3ch-sp, 1 tr in 1ch-sp; rep from * 3 times more, sl st in first st to join.

Fasten off and break yarn.

Snowflake 3 (make 5 with A, 4 with B and 3 with C) With MC, chain 6, sl st in first ch to close ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, [1 htr in ring, 1 ch] 7 times, sl st in 2nd ch of beg 3ch to join.

Rnd 2: [10 ch, miss 1 ch sp, 1 dc in next 1ch-sp] 4 times.

Rnd 3: *[5 dc, 1 htr, 3 tr, 1 htr, 5 dc] in 10ch-sp, 7 ch; rep from * to end, sl st in first dc to join, turn.

Rnd 4 (WS): Sl st in BLO of each ch to top of 7ch-sp, 3 ch, [2 ch, 1 tr] 3 times in 7chsp, 3 ch, 1 tr in htr, [2 ch, 1 tr] 4 times, 3 ch, *{([1 tr, 2 ch] 3 times, 1 tr)} in 7ch-sp, 3 ch, 1 tr in htr, [2 ch, 1 tr] 4 times, 3 ch; rep from * twice more, sl st in first st to join.

Fasten off and break yarn.

Change to Colour. Make slip knot on hook.

Rnd 5: *1 tr in first of three 2ch-sps, 2 ch, 1 dc in 2ch-sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in 2ch-sp, 3 ch, miss 3ch-sp, 1 dc in 2ch-sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in 2ch-sp, 7 ch, 1 tr in 2ch-sp, 2 ch, 1 dc in 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, miss 3ch-sp; rep from * 3 times more, sl st in first st to join.

Rnd 6: 3 ch, *[3 tr in 2ch-sp] twice, 4 tr in 3ch-sp, 3 tr in 2ch-sp, [4 tr, 3 ch, 4 tr] in 7ch-sp, 3 tr in 2ch-sp, 4 tr in 3ch-sp; rep from * 3 times more, sl st in first st to join.

Fasten off and break yarn.

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Blanket

2

1 4

3

Snowflake 4 (make 4 with A,

Finishing

3 with B and 5 with C) With MC, chain 4, sl st in first ch to close ring.

Rnd 1: 4 ch, [1 htr, 2 ch] 7 times, sl st to join.

Rnd 2: 7 ch, [1 tr in 2ch-sp, 4 ch] 7 times, sl st to join.

Rnd 3: 1 ch, [5 dc in 4ch-sp, 1 dc in tr] 7 times, 5 dc in 5ch-sp, sl st to join.

Rnd 4: *1 dc , miss 2, {([1 tr,1 ch] 4 times, 1 tr)} in next st, miss 2; rep from * to end of rnd, sl st to join.

Rnd 5: 1 ch, *[1 htr, 2 ch] in 1ch-sp 3 times, 1 htr in next 1ch-sp, rep from * to end of rnd, sl st to join. Fasten off and break yarn.

Change to Colour. Make slip knot on hook.

Rnd 6: *1 tr in sp between 2 scallops, 4 ch, miss 1 2ch-sp, 1 dc in next 2ch-sp, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 2ch-sp, 2 ch, [1 dtr, 3 ch, 1 dtr] in sp between scallops, 2 ch, 1 tr in next 2ch-sp, 2 ch, 1 dc in next 2ch-sp, 4 ch; rep from * 3 times more, sl st to join.

Rnd 7: 3 ch, *4 tr in 4ch-sp, [3 tr in 2chsp] twice, [3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] 3ch-sp, [3 tr in 2ch-sp] twice, 4 tr in 4ch-sp; rep from * 3 times more, sl st to join. Fasten off and break yarn.

Weave in all ends. Lay out the squares as shown in the diagram. With wrong sides together and using MC, join A4 to C2 using dc, then, without breaking yarn, join B3 to A1.

Continue along the row. Join the following rows in the same way. Now join the columns in the same way, working 1 dc in the yarn joining the rows at the corners.

18

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CN07 P16 SNOWFLAKE BLANKET.indd 18

44 33 4 3 2 1 44 333 Edging 3 2 1 Using MC, make slip knot on hook.

Rnd 1: 1 tr in each st, working 3 tr in each 3 4 33 corner; sl st to join.

Rnd 2: 3 ch, miss 1 st, 1 tr in each st, working 3 2 1 3 tr in each corner; sl st to join.

Fasten off and break yarn.

4 333 Weave in remaining ends. Wash and dry flat, pulling in shape. The easiest way 3 to dry2a 1 blanket of this size is on a spare bed. Wash it and spin it at about 600rpm to remove most of the water, then spread thick, fluffy towels on the bed. Put the blanket on the bed, smoothing it outwards from the centre. The texture of the towels will hold the blanket out without the need for wires or pins.

3

4 3 2 1 44 33nce of22squar 11 es 44 33 Seque The letter is the4colour3 of the outside of the 22 square; 11 the44number33is the222number111 of the snowflake.

4 33 22 11 44 33 44 33 422 311 24 13 22 11 44 33 2 1 42 331 224 113 442 331 44 33 422 311 24 13 22 11 44 33 2 1 42 331 224 113 442 331 44 33 22 11 4 3 22 11 44 33 2 1 2 1 4 3 2 1 44 33 22 11 4 A 3 2 1 4 3A 2 B 1 A

B

B

CA

C

B C

4 22 4 2 42 2 4 2

3 2 11 3 1 31 1 3 1

C

13/09/2016 15:31

The UK’s No.1 for patterns

Issue 66 on sale 13th October

Packed with patterns you’ll love to make

FESTIVE SPECIAL!

Knits for your free yarn

Amazing free gift!

Garments in sizes 8-26

CN07.P19 KN house ad.indd 19

Makes for babies & kids

Quick & easy accessories

2 balls of genuine Hayfield Bonus DK & 4 exclusive patterns to knit

13/09/2016 15:50

TOFT TALK In honour of the UK’s biggest celebration of wool, Kerry Lord questions the perceptions we have of the fibre for crochet projects

What does ‘wool’ mean to you?

The word ‘wool’ conjures up completely different images and associations for most people I meet. For many people, balls of yarn – regardless of whether they are made from acrylic, cotton or something else – will be called balls of ‘wool’. You might even find that you refer to your local yarn shop as the ‘wool shop’, despite there being a very high probability that only a small percentage of what it sells is made from wool. For most people, wool has positive associations of warmth and cosiness, but it is also very commonly linked with negative connotations about itch and smell.

UK Wool Week is something I have been involved in for the last five years in various ways, encouraging people to pay a little more attention to the labels on their clothes

20

for a week and understand that their wardrobe of winter woollies is likely to be 100% man-made. I’d just like to clarify for all reading that The Campaign for Wool’s Wool Week is just about the promotion of sheep’s wool; other natural animal fibre such as alpaca and mohair is excluded (despite there being some serious confusion around this, even by many of the supporting high street retailers).

TOFT’s introduction of a pure wool range four years ago really opened my eyes to people’s perception of wool, and I was shocked by how many had little to no comprehension of just how soft, silky and shiny top-quality wool can be. You hear the phrase ‘I can’t wear wool’ or ‘I’m allergic to wool’ several dozen times each day at any yarn show across the UK, and although some unlucky people are indeed allergic to wool, many who have had a bad experience are not. I have taught the TOFT team to step forward and query these sweeping statements about ‘not wearing wool’. Like most products, wool comes on a sliding

scale of quality and price and most of what we see, handle and wear comes from the middle somewhere.

Some sheep grow wool on their backs that is thick, coarse, hairy (kempy) and suitable only for rough carpet making and insulation. Other breeds of sheep, the most famous of which is a household name, the Merino, have been selectively bred to grow superfine fleece, the best of which are so exceptionally fine and soft that the resulting knitted and woven fabric can barely be sensed when worn.

The quality of the ‘wool’ being grown and the resulting softness or wearability of the yarns made with it are not solely dictated by a sheep’s breed. While certain breeds have been developed for meat, others have been selectively bred with a focus on fibre production – but other factors such as the age of the animal, quality of its diet and even environmental factors such as weather can impact the quality of the wool you are left with once it has been sheared off the

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TOFT talk

Harold the Teeswater sheep

Hank the Dorset Down sheep

Lou the Merino sheep

Dominic the Swaledale sheep

‘Wool’ means durability, longevity and sustainability, but above all it means I understand where my yarn has come from

sheep’s back. In general, lambswool – the first fleece the animal has ever grown – will be far softer than subsequent ones, but like most things in the world of farming and rearing animals, this is no hard and fast rule. Some 10-year-old breeding ewes will produce finer grading fleece than other six-month-old lambs.

The process of judging and grading each fleece into a scale of categories based on fineness (fibre diameter measured in microns) evens out the variability, ready for

sheep

the wool to be sold at market. What I have always felt is hard for the consumer is that these categories are not passed on or used on a label, so you are reliant upon your own sense of touch to work out whether what you are buying is the kind of wool you will want to wear.

I am a huge devotee of wool; I love knitting with it, crocheting with it and most of all wearing it. I am a firm believer in buying less quantity (you might be surprised to find my stash is rather modest) but the best quality I can afford, and this applies to my wardrobe too. To me, wool isn’t just about warmth, it gives my yarns and projects softness, smoothness and stitch definition. ‘Wool’ means durability, longevity and sustainability, but above all it means I understand where my yarn has come from. The story of farmer, sheep, grader, carder and spinner is one that makes me smile while I wind yarn from a skein to a ball, when I cast on my first stitches and whenever I’m gently handwashing my pile of lovely winter woollies.

UK WOOL WEEK 10TH – 16TH OCTOBER

Watch out for woolly happenings nationwide, but don’t limit your appreciation to just these seven days – shop for TOFT’s wool yarn at www.thetoftalpacashop.co.uk and find out more about His Royal Highness The Prince Of Wales’s Campaign For Wool and the work it does year round at www.campaignforwool.org www.crochetnow.co.uk | 21

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Cushion

Hugh Metcalf 22

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Cushion

FLYING THE FLAG CUSHION Celebrate your love of British wool by flying the Union Jack on your sofa or bed with this fun-to-make cushion DK

4mm

★ Learn a pattern Yarn used Erika Knight British Blue Wool 3 balls each in Classic (A), Milk (B), Mysore Red (C)

About the yarn DK; 55m per 25g ball; 100% British wool

Tension 18 sts x 9 rows = 10cm measured over corner-to-corner pattern

Hook used 4mm

Other supplies tapestry needle 35cm cushion insert

Sizing 36cm square

The cushion front is made up of four panels that are worked in the corner-tocorner style, then given a border and joined.

Start crocheting Front Panel (make 4) With A, chain 6.

Row 1: Starting in 4th ch from hook, 3 tr.

Turn. 1 block Row 2: 5 ch, 1 tr in 3rd ch from hook, and in next 2 chs, [1 sl st, 2 ch, 3 tr] in 3ch-sp.

Turn. 2 blocks Row 3: 5 ch, 1 tr in 3rd ch from hook, and in next 2 chs, {[1 sl st, 2 ch, 3 tr] in 2ch-sp} twice. Turn. 3 blocks Continue in this manner through Row 7 changing to B in the last st. 7 blocks Work 1 row with B, changing to C in the last st. Work two rows with C. 10 blocks Work decreasing pattern from Row 11 onwards: Row 11: With C, sl st across first 3 tr, {[1 sl st, 2 ch, 3 tr] in 2ch-sp} across to last 2ch-sp, sl st in last 2ch-sp, changing to B. Turn. 9 blocks Work one decreasing row with B, changing to A in the last st.

Work 7 more decreasing rows with A. 1 block Fasten off.

Edging Row 1: Join B to edge st of either blue corner, 3 ch (counts as 1 tr now and throughout), *3 tr around each tr side, 1 tr in each tr top as encountered; rep to next corner block, 2 tr, [2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr] in corner st, 2 tr, rep from * to end of 2nd side. Fasten off.

Rows 2-3: With C, 3 ch, tr across

to corner 2ch-sp, [1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr] into 2ch-sp, tr across. Turn.

Fasten off.

Back Panels (make 4) With remaining yarn, making sure to use up oddments, make four granny squares as follows, alternating A, B and C and desired.

Rnd 1: Working into a magic ring, 3 ch (counts as first tr now and throughout), 2 tr, 2 ch, [3 tr, 2 ch] 3 times, join with sl st in beg 3 ch.

Rnd 2: Join new colour in any 2ch-sp, [3 ch, 2 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] into same sp, [3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] into each 2ch-sp around, join with sl st in beg 3 ch.

Rnd 3: Join new colour in any 2ch-sp, [3 ch, 2 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] into same sp, *3 tr between 3tr-groups, [3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] into next 2ch-sp; rep from * twice more, 3 tr between 3trgroups, join with sl st in beg 3 ch.

Rnd 4: Join new colour in any 2ch-sp, [3 ch, 2 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] into same sp, *[3 tr between 3tr-groups] to corner 2ch-sp, [3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] into 2ch-sp; rep from * 2 more times, [3 tr into sp between 3trgroups] to end, join with sl st in beg 3 ch.

Rep Rnd 4 four more times. Fasten off.

Making up Join front panels along edged sides, ensuring all are RS facing. Join horizontally with a tapestry needle and C, or with a sl st join, then do the same vertically.

Join Back Panels. Weave in ends and blocks to dimensions given for both panels.

With RS together and B, join Front and Back with tapestry needle and B around three sides, place the cushion inside and close the final side.

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Blanket

BULLSEYE

BLANKET

Rebecca Armstrong 24

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Blanket This striking design uses beautiful British wool for a blanket that’ll add character to any room DK

4mm

★ Beginner friendly Yarn used West Yorkshire Spinners Aire Valley DK 4 balls each in pink 522 (A) & Wine 587 (C), 11 balls in white 011 (B)

About the yarn DK; 230m per 100g ball; 75% wool, 25% nylon

Tension One blocked square measures 25cm

Hook used 4mm hook

Other supplies

[2 tr, 2 tr in next st] around, sl st in beg 3 ch to join, changing to B. 56 sts Rnd 5: 3 ch, 2 tr, 2 tr in next st, [3 tr, 2 tr in next st] around, sl st in beg 3 ch to join. 70 sts Rnd 6: 3 ch, 3 tr, 2 tr in next st, [4 tr, 2 tr in next st] around, sl st in beg 3 ch to join, changing to A. 84 sts Rnd 7: 3 ch, 4 tr, 2 tr in next st, [5 tr, 2 tr in next st] around, sl st in beg 3 ch to join, changing to B. 98 sts Rnd 8: 3 ch, 5 tr, 2 tr in next st, [6 tr, 2 tr in next st] around, sl st in beg 3 ch to join, changing to C. 112 sts Rnd 9: 3 ch, 6 tr, 2 tr in next st, [7 tr, 2 tr in next st] around, sl st in beg 3 ch to join. 126 sts Rnd 10: 3 ch, 7 tr, 2 tr in next st, [8 tr, 2 tr in next st] around, sl st in beg 3 ch to join, changing to B. 140 sts This next round will begin the squaring of the circle.

tapestry needle

Sizing Full blanket measures 1.5m square plus border Notes: Change colours when indicated in the last st of the rnd. Fasten off the previous colour

Start crocheting Make 36 squares, half with pink centres and half with red centres.

With A, chain 4, join with sl st to make a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch (counts as 1st tr now and throughout), 13 tr into ring, sl st in beg 3 ch to join. 14 sts Rnd 2: 3 ch, 1 tr in first st, [2 tr in next st] around, sl st in beg 3 ch to join, changing to B. 28 sts Rnd 3: 3 ch, 2 tr in next st, [1 tr, 2 tr in next st] around, sl st in beg 3 ch to join, changing to A. 42 sts Rnd 4: 3 ch, 1 tr in next st, 2 tr in next st,

Rnd 11: 1 ch (counts as 1 dc now and throughout), 7 dc, 5 htr, 4 tr, *[1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr] in next st for corner, 4 tr, 5 htr**, 16 dc, 5 htr, 4 tr; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 8 dc, sl st in beg 1 ch to join. 144 sts Rnd 12: 1 ch, 7 dc, *5 htr, 4 tr, 1 dtr, [1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr] in corner 1ch-sp, 1 dtr, 4 tr, 5 htr**, 16 dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 8 dc, sl st in beg 1 ch to join. 152 sts Rnd 13: 1 ch, 7 dc, *5 htr, 4 tr, 2 dtr, [1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr] in corner 1ch-sp, 2 dtr, 4 tr, 5 htr**, 16 dc; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 8 dc, sl st in beg 1 ch to join. 160 sts Rnd 14: 3 ch, 19 tr, *[2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr] in corner 1ch-sp**, 40 tr; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 20 tr, sl st in beg 3 ch to join. 176 sts Fasten off.

Border Join A in any st.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, {1 tr across to corner ch-sp, [2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr] in ch-sp} around, join with sl st in top of 3 ch, changing to C. Rnd 2: With C, as Rnd 1 except changing to B. Rnd 3: With B, as Rnd 1, except do not change colour.

Rnd 4: 1 ch, {dc across to corner ch-sp, [2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc] in ch-sp} around, join with sl st in top of 3 ch.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Layout diagram

Weave in ends and block all squares.

Sew together in a six by six square, alternating pink and red centres.

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13/09/2016 14:39

Colour stories

MY LIFE IN

COLOUR

Amanda Perkins

As the designer otherwise known as Queenie Amanda, Amanda Perkins has trained her eye to use colour to make spectacular designs with just the simplest stitches. To celebrate the launch of her new book she lets us in on her colour philosophy and love for natural fibre www.amandascrochetblog.blogspot.co.uk

I

live in Lynton, Exmoor national park in North Devon at the end of a road to nowhere. It’s a small village on the edge of a cliff that considers itself a town, because there’s a town hall. Most inspiration comes from where I live so it’s very important to me. The landscape and colours change from day to day as well as seasonally, and I can’t help but to be inspired by it.

Mirage: This triangle in a square block is so clever!

I live with my husband and my team of helpers – a very small lurcher, a giant German shepherd and a Maine Coon cat, they keep me company and Billy the cat ‘tests’ all my blankets for comfort.

I spend all day every day working, writing patterns and working on the business side and spend the rest of the day from lunchtime until I go to bed crocheting. I am so completely obsessed that I really don’t do anything else, I am lucky that my husband is a natural carer; he looks after me and enables me to do what I do.

time. I’ve never followed a pattern, but have always made it up as I go. But I didn’t start designing until about 10 years ago when I ran an indie dyeing company, The Natural Dye Studio. I needed pattern support to sell my yarn and crochet was the obvious choice and so I started writing and self-publishing patterns.

Up until 10 years ago crochet was something I did for pleasure in my spare

I am more inspired and excited by colour than crochet techniques, so I only ever

Flying Geese: Simple shapes make for an 28 | www.crochetnow.co.uk amazing design

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Colour stories

(Clockwise from above): A version of her new Foxgloves design; a pretty blanket from the new book; the landscape which inspires Amanda’s work; the Arabian Nights-inspired design

It’s very important to me to support my local farmers as I know how difficult their job can be

angle

ock

r!

use the basic stitches. A lot of people are scared to make their own colour choices and my aim is to make it easy for them and to give them a bit more confidence to experiment further.

I am very lucky to work with four yarn companies who cover the whole range of textures and colours that I want to use – Fyberspates, John Arbon Textiles, Skein Queen and The Little Grey Sheep.

My style is experimental and hopefully innovative. I don’t set out to achieve anything with a design, I start off with a vague idea of the layout and a colour collection which can change over time as the blanket evolves.

I normally start with one colour that I love and collect other colours to go with it. I lay out colour collections on my wool room (studio) floor; it can take weeks maybe months for a collection to develop. Luckily my animal team is banned from the studio.

I only ever use natural fibres, mainly wool, silk and alpaca. I live in a landscape full of sheep, there isn’t any arable farming on Exmoor as it’s rocky and hilly. The only thing that grows well is sheep. John Arbon produces an Exmoor Sock yarn, which I try to use whenever possible as I might be able to see the sheep that the wool came from out of my bedroom window. It’s very important to support my local farmers as I know how difficult their job can be, especially over lambing season.

The new book, Rainbow Crocheted Blankets, started off as a book of rainbow blankets, but over time developed into designs inspired by my mother, aunt and granny who all crocheted, knitted and sewed their own clothes. It also contains some blankets inspired by quilts I made over 20 years ago, so the underlying theme is textiles that have featured in my life.

Amanda’s Project Palette

For my Crop Circle blanket the most prominent colour here is yellow-gold but you don’t need to use the same colours I have. There are two other colour variation charts!

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Colour stories

30

CROP CIRCLES

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Colour stories

Amanda’s design uses a simple pattern cleverly to create a showstopper of a blanket from scraps of her favourite wool yarn

Amanda Perkins

Designed by

4-ply

3mm

★ Beginner-friendly Yarn used This blanket is made from yarn scraps, however you’ll need the following colours: orange, soft red, Rose, lilac, Currant, indigo, azure, green or Lime, and gold

About the yarn

About the book

4-ply; 360m per 100g skein; 100% wool

Tension Each motif measures 10cm square

Hook used 3mm

Sizing 180.5x190.5cm (UK king size) This blanket is made from six different motifs all based on the same design however changing colour on different rounds. Create them as follows choosing your own colours for non-gold rounds:

Motif 1 (make 51) Motif 4 (make 68) Rnd 1: Colour Rnds 2-8: Gold

Rnds 1-4: Colour Rnds 5-8: Gold

Motif 2 (make 18) Motif 5 (make 76) Rnds 1 & 2: Colour Rnds 3-8: Gold

Rnds 1-5: Colour Rnds 6-8: Gold

Motif 3 (make 18) Motif 6 (make 75) Rnds 1 & 3: Colour Rnds 4-8: Gold

Rnds 1-6: Colour Rnds 7-8: Gold

Start crocheting…

Rainbow Crocheted Blankets, by Amanda Perkins, published by Search Press, £12.99 www.searchpress.com

Motif Using colour 1, make a 5-ch foundation chain and join in a ring with a sl st.

Rnd 1: 2 ch (counts as 1 htr), 9 htr in the foundation ring. Join to the 2nd st of original 2-ch with a sl st. 10 htr Fasten off.

Rnd 2: In this and all following rounds, work in the gaps between sts in previous round. Join Colour 2 in any gap, 2 ch (counts as 1 htr), 1 htr in same gap, *2 htr in next gap*. Repeat from * to * 8 times.

Join to the 2nd st of original 2-ch with a sl st. 20 htr Fasten off.

Rnd 3: Join Colour 3 in any gap, 2 ch (counts as 1 htr), 1 htr in same gap, 1 htr in next gap, *2 htr in next gap, 1 htr in next gap*. Repeat from * to * 8 times. Join to the 2nd st of original 2-ch with a sl st.

30 htr Fasten off.

Rnd 4: Join Colour 4 in any gap, 2 ch (counts as 1 htr), 1 htr in the same gap, 1 htr in the next 2 gaps, *2 htr in next gap, 1 htr in next 2 gaps, *. Repeat from * to * 8 times. Join to the 2nd st of original 2-ch with a sl st. 40 htr Fasten off.

Rnd 5: Join Colour 5 in any gap, 2 ch (counts as 1 htr), 1 htr in same gap, 1 htr in the next 3 gaps, *2 htr in next gap, 1 htr in next 3 gaps*. Repeat from * to * 8 times. Join to the 2nd st of original 2-ch with a sl st. 50 htr Fasten off.

Rnd 6: Join Colour 6 in any gap, 2 ch (counts as 1 htr), 1 htr in same gap, 1 htr in the next 4 gaps, *2 htr in next gap, 1 htr in next 4 gaps*. Repeat from * to * 8 times. Join to the 2nd st of original 2-ch with a sl st. 60 htr Fasten off.

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Colour stories Rnd 7: Join Colour 7 in any gap, 4 ch (counts as 1 dtr), 1 dtr in same gap (this forms the end of a corner), *1 dtr in the next gap, 1 tr in the next 2 gaps, 1 htr in the next 2 gaps, 1 dc in the next 4 gaps, 1 htr in the next 2 gaps, 1 tr in the next 2 gaps, 1 dtr in the next gap, (2 dtr, 2 ch**, 2 dtr) in the next gap (this forms the corner)*. Repeat from * to * 3 times ending last repeat at **.

Join to the 4th st of original 4-ch with a sl st.

Rnd 8: 1 ch (counts as 1dc) in the 2-ch corner space, *1 dc in the next 17 gaps, (1 dc, 2 ch**, 1 dc) in the 2-ch corner space*. Repeat from * to * 3 times, ending last repeat at **. Join to the original 1-ch with a sl st. Fasten off.

Making up Take one Motif 1 block, two Motif 2 blocks, two Motif 3 blocks, two Motif 4 blocks, two Motif 5 blocks and one Motif 6 block.

Attach them together with slipstitch in that order.

Take two Motif 1 blocks, four Motif 2 blocks, four Motif 3 blocks, four Motif 4 blocks, four Motif 5 blocks and two Motif 6 blocks. Taking one side at a time, add a column either side of the first column with slipstitch.

Layout diagram

Take six Motif 1 blocks, 12 Motif 2 blocks, 12 Motif 3 blocks, 12 Motif 4 blocks, 12 Motif 5 blocks and six Motif 6 blocks. As in Step 2, work a column at a time as shown, attaching the blocks with slipstitch.

The centre block is now complete and you can start adding the next motifs in rounds, working around the blanket as you add them. Take 42 Motif 1 blocks and slip-stitch them in place to create the first border.

Take 50 Motif 4 blocks and slip-stitch them in place to create the second border.

Take 58 Motif 5 blocks and slip-stitch them in place to create the third border.

Take 66 Motif 6 blocks and slip-stitch them in place to create the fourth border.

Complete the blanket with two rows of double crochet.

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KNITTINGWOOL.COM

S N R A Y L L A F F O T N U O C S I D % 5 2 R U O F O H C N U A L E H T E T A R B E L E TO C M O O R W O H S & NEW WEBSIHTOENE HELPLINE 0800 622 6225 DEDICATED FREEP

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Visit our showroom based in Llay, near Wrexham.

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OOL

ITISH W

ORT BR

WE SUPP

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Shawl

EXCLUSIVE DESIGN 34

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Shawl

SPICED BERRY SHAWL Designed by

Wrap up warm in gorgeously soft, squishy wool with this pretty design from Wendy 4-ply

3.5mm

★ Beginner friendly Yarn used Wendy Merino 4-ply 2 balls each in 2408 Coulis (A), 2399 Saffron (B), 2372 Mulberry (C)

About the yarn 4-ply; 175m per 50g ball; 100% wool

Tension 2 patt reps = 7.5cm

Hook used 3.5mm

Sizing

Wendy Design Team

1 ch, miss 3 ch, 1 shell into next ch; rep from * 3 more times, 1 ch, 1 ttr into same ch as last shell. Turn.

Fasten off but do NOT break yarn.

Row 2: Join in B into top of 1st ttr, 6 ch, work a shell into first ttr, * 1 ch, 1 dtr into centre dtr of next shell, 1 ch, 1 shell into next single dtr; rep from * to last shell, 1 ch, 1 dtr into centre dtr of last shell, 1 ch [1 shell, 1 ch, 1 ttr] into 5th of 6 ch. Turn.

Fasten off but do NOT break yarn.

Row 3: Join in C into top of 1st ttr and rep Row 2. Continue as Row 3 alternating colours by pulling them up from previous rows, making sure the thread between rows is not too tight.

Rep last pattern row 29 times. 35 shells Row 4: 7 ch, 1 sl st into 3rd ch from hook, 2 dtr into first st, * 1 ch, 1 dtr into centre dtr of next shell, 1 ch, a shell into next single dtr; rep from * ending with 1 ch, 1 dtr into centre dtr of next shell, 1 ch, [2 dtr, 3 ch, 1 sl st] into last st formed, 1 dtr into 5th of 6 ch. Turn.

Row 5: 6 ch, * 1 shell into next single dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr into centre dtr of next shell, 1 ch; rep from * ending with a shell into next single dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr into 4th of 4 ch. Turn.

Rep last two pattern rows once.

Fasten off.

152x53cm

Edging Row 1: Working along lower edge of shawl using A, work 1 dc into row ends, and 3 dc into the ttr or 4ch-sp loop between the row ends. At the bottom of the shawl work 3 dc into 3ch-sp and 1 dc into loop where shell or 1 ttr are worked. This row works in the tails from the ends of the rows. Turn.

Row 2: Working along lower edge of shawl, 2 ch, miss 3 dc {[1 dtr, 3 ch] twice, 1 dtr} into next dc (row end), *2 ch, miss 3 dc, 1 dc into next dc (row end), 2 ch, miss 3 dc {[1 dtr, 3 ch] twice, 1 dtr} into next dc (row end); rep from * all round shawl ending with 2 ch, miss 3 dc, 1 dc into corner. Turn.

Row 3: 3 dc into 2ch-sp, *[4 dc into 3ch-sp] twice, [3 dc into 2ch-sp] twice; rep from * all round shawl edge omitting last 3 dc into 2ch-sp at end of last repeat.

Fasten off.

Special stitches

Shell: [2 dtr, 3 ch, 1 sl st into last st formed, 1 dtr, 3 ch, 1 sl st into last st formed, 2 dtr] into same st Trtr: Yrh 3 times, insert hook in next stitch, yrh and draw up a loop, [yrh and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice, [yrh, draw through 2 loops] twice

Reduced Chart Start crocheting Using 3.5mm hook and A, chain 38.

Row 1: Starting in 6th ch from hook, 1 shell, *1 ch, miss 3 ch, 1 dtr into next ch,

sl st ch dtr trtr

1 2

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CN07 P34 SPICED BERRY SHAWL.indd 35

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How to...

HOW TO

FELT YOUR CROCHET Tracey Todhunter

Felting is a wonderful, and sometimes not so wonderful (alas poor shrunken jumpers), option available to you when using a wool yarn, so what better technique to master in our wool special?! Tracey Todhunter tells us how

F

elting crochet is so easy, it often happens accidentally when we wash our makes at too high a temperature or ignore washing instructions. But the technique can also be used deliberately to create firm, durable fabric.

Technically, the process of shrinking a piece of crochet or knitted fabric is known as ‘fulling’, but amongst most yarn enthusiasts, the term ‘felting’ is used to describe the process of heating and agitating a piece of crochet so that it shrinks and becomes more durable.

Modern domestic washing machines, which allow us to choose temperature, spin speed and length of cycle, mean that it has never been easier to experiment with felted fabric. My own machine even allows me to open the door mid-cycle so I can check the progress of my felted project, removing it early if necessary.

Most natural fibre can be felted successfully by hand or in a domestic washing machine. By applying heat, soap and gentle agitation, the fibres mat together, producing a thicker and more stable fabric that is perfect for bags and accessories. Wool, alpaca and mohair are all ideal yarns. Expect the colour to fade slightly during the washing process. You

36

can also buy yarn designed for felting – these often come in bright colours which will withstand the heat of the machine and create more vibrant finished objects.

Look for yarn that is close to 100% natural fibre and avoid those with a ‘superwash’ label as these have been treated to prevent shrinking. Every fibre reacts differently to the felting process and so it’s essential that you swatch first. Expect your project to shrink by 10-30%. Start with the shortest cycle, you can always repeat the cycle if you want a closer texture, but the process cannot be reversed and a fabric washed at too high a temperature or too high a spin speed can become creased and matted, making it unusable.

result is a smooth, stable fabric. Some of my other favourites are listed below, but I would encourage you to search through your stash, crochet a few small swatches and try putting them through a washing machine cycle and observe the results.

Try using a larger hook size than usual and experiment with different stitches. Write down the yarn, hook, stitch and size before felting or even make two swatches – felt one and keep the other as reference.

To avoid excess fibre clogging your machine, place the items to be felted in a laundry bag or pillowcase (tie the end securely). You can also add a few bulky items such as towels or jeans to the drum as these provide extra agitation. Use a small amount of laundry detergent and avoid using fabric conditioner for best results.

★ Beginner friendly

For the project in this issue, I used The Fibre Company Cumbria Worsted. This has become my go-to yarn for felting, the colours don’t fade excessively and the end

Felted Daisy Chain Aran

4mm

Yarn used The Fibre Co Cumbria Oddments of Scafell Pike (MC), Cowberry (CC2), Windermere (CC2)

About the yarn Worsted/Aran; 28m per 100g skein; 60% Merino wool, 30% Masham wool, 10% mohair

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From this...

Tension

How to...

One motif should measure 8cm diameter before felting

Hook used 4mm

Sizing One size (can be adjusted by adding more motifs) Width 6cm, length 125cm (size is approximate and depends on number of motifs joined and how much the wool shrinks during felting)

...to this

Make 16 flower motifs, five each in CC1 and CC2 and six motifs in MC. Motif is worked in rounds, with right side always facing.

Flower 1 (MC) Chain 6, join with a sl st to make a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch (counts as tr), 1 tr, 1 ch, [2 tr, 1 ch] 7 times, join with a sl st to top of 3 ch. 16 tr, 8 ch sp.

Rnd 2: Sl st into next ch sp, 1 dc, [5 ch, dc in next ch sp] 7 times, 5 ch, sl st into first dc. 8 ch sp.

Rnd 3: [1 sl st, 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr, 1 sl st in next 5 ch sp] 8 times, join with a sl st into base of first petal.

Fasten off and break yarn.

Flower Two (CC1) Work as for Flower 1 to end of Rnd 2.

Rnd 3: [1 sl st, 3 tr, sl st join to any petal of first motif, 3 tr, 1 sl st], [1 sl st, 3 tr, sl st join to next petal of first motif, 3 tr, 1 sl st], [1 sl st, 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr, 1 sl st in next 5 ch sp] 6 times, join with a sl st into base of first petal.

Fasten off and break yarn.

follows to previous flower: Work as for Flower 1 to end of Rnd 2.

Rnd 3: [1 sl st, 3 tr, sl st join to previous motif, missing two petals after last join, 3 tr, 1 sl st], [1 sl st, 3 tr, sl st join to next petal, 3 tr, 1 sl st], [1 sl st, 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr, 1 sl st in next 5 ch sp] 6 times, join with a sl st into base of first petal.

Fasten off and break yarn.

Continue in colour sequence until 16 motifs have been joined.

To felt scarflet Weave in all ends. Place scarflet in a laundry bag, wash at 60°, with a small amount of laundry detergent, choosing no spin or shorterst spin cycle.

Rinse in tepid water and lie flat to dry, pinning motifs to shape.

Yarn ideas

Special abbreviations Sl st join: Each motif is joined as you go using a slip stitch join as follows: First join: Remove hook from working loop, insert hook from front to back into chain space of previous motif petal. Put the working loop back on the hook and draw the loop through the ch sp, complete petal as instructed in pattern.

Second join: Work second petal as above, but join into next petal or previous motif.

When joining subsequent motifs, skip two petals after previous join and work sl st join into next two petals.

Some of Tracey’s favourite felting yarns

Flower Three (CC 2) Work as for Flower Two, joining as

Every fibre reacts differently to the felting process and so it’s essential that you swatch first

Wendy Ramsdale DK £3.29, www.woolwarehouse. co.uk

Twilleys Freedom Wool £3.35, www.lovecrochet.com

The Fibre Company Cumbria 4-ply £11.99, www.deramores.com

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Bag

RAINBOW FELTED MESSENGER

Make sure to buy the ‘regular’ Cascade 220 and not the Superwash, since this superwash yarn cannot be felted!

Annelies Bae 38

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

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Bag Test your faith in felting with this colourful bag that proves even intricate stitch patterns come out great in the wash Aran

5.5mm

★ Beginner friendly Yarn used Cascade 220 5 balls in 8401 Silver Grey (A), 1 ball each in cerise (B), Anis (C), Californa Poppy (D), Lagoon (E), Lupin (F), Peony Pink (G), Citron (H), Caribbean (I)

About the yarn Worsted/Aran: 200m per 100g skein, 100% wool

Tension 13 sts x 8 rows = 10 cm measured over tr before felting

Hook used 5.5mm

Other supplies tapestry needle lockable stitch markers 9cm button smaller button 3m thin leather cord 4 beads, 2 larger and 2 smaller (same colour as cord) toggle with 2 holes

Sizing Before felting: 55cm wide x 40cm tall After felting: 37cm wide x 27cm tall

Start crocheting Bag Body With A, chain 76.

Row 1 (RS): Starting in 3rd ch from hook, tr across. Turn. 74 tr Row 2 (WS): 2 ch (does not count as st),

tr across. Turn.

Rows 3-70: Rep Row 2.

Fasten off and break yarn.

Place stitch markers at both ends of rows 30 and 40.

Bag Sides (make 2) With A, chain 17.

Row 1 (RS): Starting in 3rd ch from hook, tr across. Turn. 15 tr Row 2 (WS): 2 ch, tr across. Turn. 15 tr Rows 3-30: Rep Row 2.

Fasten off and break yarn.

With WS tog, place first Bag Side along edge of Bag Body between foundation ch and Row 30. Working through both layers, join A with sl st in top corners of Body and Side, cont working 30 dc evenly between join and first st marker on Body. Work 15 dc evenly between stitch markers (every 2nd st will require 2 dc in same st). Work 30 dc evenly between 2nd marker and Row 70.

Fasten off and break yarn. Rep with other Bag Side.

Front Flap Row 1 (RS): With A and back of Bag Body RS facing, join with sl st in top corner to work across Row 70. Hshell in same st, *miss 2 sts, 1 dc, miss 2 sts, shell in next st; rep from * another 10 times, miss 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, miss 2 sts, Hshell in next st, in last yo and pull through of last st on Hshell, change to B. Turn. 11 shells and 2 Hshells Fasten off and break A. Row 2 (WS): With B, ch 1, 1 dc in first tr, 3 ch, *rshell, 3 ch, 1 dc in centre tr of shell; rep from * another 11 times, the last dc is made in the last tr of last hshell. Turn.

12 shells Row 3 (RS): Hshell, *1 dc in rshell, 1 shell in dc; rep from * another 10 times, 1 dc in rshell, 1 hshell in last dc, changing to next color in sequence in last yo and pull through. Turn. 11 shells and 2 Hshells Fasten off and break Yarn B. Rep last 2 rows 12 more times, changing colours every rep. The colour sequence is C, D, E, F, G, H, I, B, F, C, H, E.

Strap (make 2) With A, chain 177.

Row 1 (RS): Starting in 3rd ch from hook, tr across. Turn. 175 tr Row 2 (WS): 2 ch, tr across. Turn.

Rows 3-4 : Rep Row 2.

Fasten off.

With RS facing out, work 1 rnd of dc around both straps together, working through both layers, to form a more solid and sturdy strap. Join A with sl st in first sts past corner, ch 1, dc in each st along first long side, 3 dc in the corner, dc evenly along short side, 3 dc in the corner, dc evenly along the second long side, 3 dc in the corner, 1 dc in every st along the second short side, and end with 3 dc in the last corner. Join with sl st in first dc. Fasten off and break yarn.

Sew both ends of the strap on to the side parts of the bag.

Felting You don’t need t o weave in ends as these can be cut after felting, just ensure they’re not too loose or long (to avoid getting caught in the machine).

Put your bag in the washing machine with some soap, use normal programme at 40˚ Take the bag out, pull it gently in shape. If necessary, pin the front flap on to blocking board. Allow to dry naturally.

Finishing Sew the large button on the front lower part of the bag, and secure it with the smaller button on the inside of the bag. Cut a 40cm cord and put it through the front flap, make sure it is invisible on the RS of the bag. (fold the flap over and see where the flap touches the centre part of the large button).

Attach one larger and one smaller bead to both ends of the cord, secure them with a knot. This cord will close of the bag,by wrapping it around the large button.

Take the rest of the cord and cut it in two equal parts: weave it through the front of the bag, start at the centre of the grey front part and work towards one small side part making large equal stitches, work back towards the centre part using the same openings. Do the same with the second cord to the other side part. Put the toggle through the centre ends, secure the cord ends with a knot.

Special Abbreviations

Shell: 7tr in next st Hshell (half shell): 4tr in 1 st (or at the beg of a row: 3 ch, 3 tr in same st) Rshell (reversed shell): 7trtog working in (last 3 tr of shell below, then in dc below, then in first 3 tr of next shell below.

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CN07 P38 FELTED BAG.indd 39

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rib rib

Cowl

Work RtrF and RtrF2tog sts loosely to prevent the fabric from curling

Lena Fedotova 42

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

CN07 P42 CROSSHATCH COWL.indd 42

13/09/2016 17:13

Cowl

CROSSHATCHED COWL Subtle and stylish, Lena’s cowl lets this easy-once-you-know-how stitch detail do all the talking

8 7 6 5

4-ply

3.5mm

★★ Easy cables Yarn used Yarn Stories Fine Merino 4-ply 3 balls in Dove

About the yarn

Start crocheting Rnd 1: 128 ftr, sl st to join in the round, being careful not to twist. Bottom gap will be closed when finishing.

Rnd 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in first ftr, 1 RtrF around next st (working not around its post, but lower, around its part between two base chs), [1 dc, 1 RtrF] to end.

Rnd 3: 3 ch, tr around.

When working Rnd 4, only every other RtrF from Rnd 2 will be worked into.

Rnd 4: 1 ch, 3 dc, 1 RtrF2tog around first and 3rd RtrF of Rnd 2 (worked in higher point, around post right below both top loops), [miss 1 st, 3 dc, 1 RtrF2tog around same (just used) and 2nd around RtrF of st rep Rnd 2] to end4with the 2nd leg of the last RtrF2tog worked around the 1st RtrF of Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: As Rnd 3.

4 ply; 178m per 50g ball; 100% fine Merino

Chart 8

20 sts and 15 rows = 10cm

7

Hook used

6

3.5mm

5

Sizing

4

60cm in circumference, 31cm tall

3 2

This pattern is worked in the round; do not turn your work at the end of the round. Use a removable stitch marker to mark the end of the round.

4 row rep

Tension

sl st ch dc ftr tr RtrF

1 RtrF2tog 4 st rep

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CN07 P42 CROSSHATCH COWL.indd 43

sl st ch dc

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4 3 2 1

Cowl Foundation treble (ftr) Step by step

WORKING CONSECUTIVE STITCHES

This technique is one of our favourites for starting a project without a foundation chain THE FIRST FOUNDATION ROW STITCH 5 Yrh, insert hook into ch st from previous row created in Step 4.

1 Chain 3. Yrh and insert through 3rd ch from hook.

6 Yrh and pull up one loop through ch – this has linked your stitches together.

3 loops on hook

2 Yrh and pull up one loop through ch – this has linked your stitches together.

3 loops on hook Rnd 6: 1 dc, 1 RtrF2tog around last and first RtrF2tog two rounds below, [miss 1 st, 3 dc, 1 RtrF2tog around same (just used) and next RtrF2tog two rounds below] to end, miss 1 st, 2 dc.

Rnd 7: As Rnd 3.

Rnd 8: 3 dc, 1 RtrF2tog around first and 2nd RtrF2tog two rounds below, [miss 1 st, 3 dc, 1 RtrF2tog around same (just used) and next RtrF2tog two rounds below] to end with 2nd leg of the last RtrF2tog worked around the first RtrF two rounds below.

Repeat rnds 5-8 nine more times (or to desired height).

Last Rnd: Dc around. Do not cut yarn, proceed to Edging.

Yrh and pull up one loop – this is your new ch st to work the next st into.

3 loops on hook

3 Yrh and pull through two loops. 2 loops on hook

7 Yrh and pull up one loop – this is your new ch st to work the next st into.

3 loops on hook

8 Yrh and pull through two loops.

2 loops on hook

Edging Dc in BLO around. Fasten off.

Weave in end at beginning of first round to close gap.

Join yarn in any st on opposite side of foundation round, dc around.

Last Rnd: Dc in BLO around. Fasten off.

Weave in ends and block to dimensions given in schematic.

44

4 Yrh and pull through two loops.

1 loop on hook

9 Yrh and pull through two loops.

1 loop on hook

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CN07 P42 CROSSHATCH COWL.indd 44

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Available in

DK & ARAN

For more information and your nearest stockist visit

WWW.WYSPINNERS.COM TEL: (0)1535 664500 · EML: SALES@WYSPINNERS.COM

CN07.P45.indd 45

2 0 1 4

2 0 1 5

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12/09/2016 16:13

Home dĂŠcor

Sheep Draught Excluder This adorable flock are happy to use their fleeces to keep errant winter breezes at bay

Liz Ward 46

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

CN07 P42 SHEEP DRAUGHT EXCLUDER.indd 46

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xxx

DK/Aran 2mm, 3.5mm, 4.5mm

★ Beginner friendly Yarn used DROPS Alpaca Boucle 3 balls in off-white 100 (A), 1 ball in Grey Mix 517 (B) DROPS Cotton Light 2 balls in Pearl Grey 31 (C), 1 ball in dark grey 30 (D)

About the yarn Boucle: Aran/worsted; 140m per 50g ball; 80% alpaca, 15% wool, 5% nylon Cotton Light: DK; 105m per 50g ball; 50% polyester, 50% cotton

Tension Tension is not critical for this project, but stitches should be tight enough to stop stuffing showing through

Hooks used 2mm 3.5mm 4.5mm

Other supplies toy stuffing 9mm black toy eyes fabric glue tapestry needle pink embroidery thread black embroidery thread

Sizing 18x12x12cm per sheep

Start crocheting Body Rnd 1: With A and 4.5mm hook, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

Rnd 2: 2 dc into each st across. 12 sts Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

18 sts Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

24 sts Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

30 sts Rnd 6: [9 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

33 sts Rnd 7: [10 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

36 sts Rnd 8: [11 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

39 sts Place marker to mark Rnd 8.

Rnd 9: [12 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

42 sts Rnd 10: [13 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

45 sts Rnd 11: [14 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

48 sts Rnds 12 & 13: Dc around.

Rnd 14: [Dc2tog, 5 dc] around. 36 sts Rnd 15: [Dc2tog, 4 dc] around. 30 sts Rnd 16: [Dc2tog, 3 dc] around. 24 sts Stuff body.

Rnd 17: [Dc2tog, 2 dc] around. 18 sts Rnd 18: [Dc2tog, 1 dc] around. 12 sts Rep rnds 3-18 six more times changing to Yarn B from the second to last body and back to A for final body.

Fasten off. Using a tapestry needle, weave tail through rem st and pull tight to close.

Head (make 6 in C, 1 in D) With 3.5mm hook, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts Rnd 1: 2 dc into each st around. 12 sts Rnd 2: Dc around.

Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

16 sts Rnd 4: Dc around.

Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

20 sts Place stitch marker to mark this rnd Rnd 6: Dc around.

Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

24 sts Rnd 8: Dc around.

Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

28 sts Rnds 10-11: Dc around.

Insert the eyes (if using) on the marked rnd 8 sts apart.

Rnd 12: [Dc2tog, dc in the next five sts] around. 24 sts Rnd 13: [Dc2tog, dc in the next two sts] around. 18 sts Rnd 14: [Dc2tog, dc in the next st] around. 12 sts Stuff now.

Rnd 15: [Dc2tog] around. 6 sts Fasten off and sew closed the hole at the base of the head.

Legs (make 4 per sheep in same colour as head) With 3.5mm hook, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts Rnd 1: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in the next st] around.

18 sts Rnd 3: Dc around. 18 sts Rnd 4: Dc around. 18 sts Rnd 5: [Dc2tog] around. 9 sts Fasten off and stuff well. Sew four close together on the base of each body.

Ears (make two per sheep in same yarn as head) With 3.5mm hook, chain 5.

Row 1: Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr.

Fasten off and sew onto the head just above and behind the eyes.

Flower (make 1) With 2mm hook and pink thread, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts Rnd 1: [1 dc, 3 tr] in each st, sl st to join.

Fasten off and sew in place by the mouth on one sheep.

Finishing Use black embroidery thread and long stitches to create a V in the centre for the noses and a line down for the mouth.

Highlight with pink thread on some noses.

Kissing sheep have a stitched X shape for their mouths. Back-stitch a semicircle onto one face for sleepy eyes. Play around with sizes and shapes of noses. Sew the heads onto the bodies using photo as a guide or make up your own grouping.

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Hat

SLOE BERRY BERET This creative beret brings to mind piles of seasonal fruit stacked high – just what you need to see you through the winter

Jacinta Bowie 48

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

CN07 P48 SLOE BERRY BERET.indd 48

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Hat Sport/DK

4mm

★★ Creative construction Yarn used DMC Woolly 1 ball each in 112 (MC), 117 (CC1), 54 (CC2)

About the yarn Sport/DK; 125m per 50g ball; 100% Merino wool

Tension 17 sts x 12 rounds = 10cm measured over tr

Hook used 4mm

Other supplies tapestry needle

Sizing S/M (M/L) Circumference 50 (53) cm with 0-5cm negative ease

Special abbreviations

MB (make bobble): Yrh, insert hook in indicated st, pul, [yrh, insert hook in same st, pul] 3 times, (9 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all loops on hook

Start crocheting With MC chain 6, sl st to beg of ch to join rnd.

Rnd 1: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr here and throughout), 11 tr in ring, sl st to top of 3ch. 12 tr Rnd 2: 3 ch, 1 tr in same sp, *2 tr in next sp; rep from * to end, sl st to top of 3ch.

Fasten off and break yarn. 24 tr Rnd 3: With CC1 rejoin yarn in gap between any 2 tr, 2 ch (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc down in gap between 2 tr of rnd 1, dc in next gap on current rnd; rep from * to last gap, 1 dc down in gap of rnd 1, sl st to top of 2ch.

Rnd 4: With CC1, 3 ch, *1 ch, 1 tr in next gap; rep from * to end, 1 ch sl st to top

of 3ch.

Rnd 5: With CC1, 3 ch, 1 tr in same st. *2 tr in next gap; rep from * to end. sl st to top of 3ch. 48 tr Rnd 6: 3 ch, *1 tr in next gap rep from * to end, sl st to top of 3ch. Fasten off and break yarn.

Rnd 7: With MC rejoin yarn to gap, 2 ch, *1 dc down in gap in rnd 5; rep from * to last gap, 1 dc, sl st top of 2ch. Fasten off and break yarn.

Rnd 8: With MC, 3 ch, *1 tr in next gap rep from * to end, sl st to top of 3ch.

Rnd 9: With MC, 3 ch,*2 tr in next gap, 1 tr in next gap; rep from * to last gap, 2 tr in last gap, sl st to top of 3ch. Fasten off and break yarn. 72 tr Rnd 10: With CC1 rejoin yarn to gap between any 2 tr, 3 ch, *1 tr in next sp; rep from * to end, sl st to top of 3 ch.

Fasten off and break yarn.

Rnd 11: With MC, rejoin yarn to any gap, 3 ch, 1 tr in same gap, *1 tr in next gap, 2 tr in next gap; rep from * to last gap, 1 tr in last gap, sl st to top of 3ch. Do not fasten off. 108 tr Rnd 12: *With CC2, MB in next gap, with MC [1 tr in next gap] 17 times; rep from * six times, sl st to beg of round.

Rnd 13: *With CC2, MB , with MC 1 tr, with CC2 MB, with MC 15 tr; rep from * 6 times, sl st to beg of rnd.

Rnd 14: *With CC2 MB, with MC 1 tr, with CC2 MB, with MC 13 tr, with CC2 MB, with MC 1 tr; rep from * 6 times, sl st to beg of rnd.

Rnd 15: *[With CC2 MB, with MC 1 tr] twice, with CC2 MB, with MC 11 tr, with CC2, MB, with MC 1 tr; rep from * 6 times sl st to beg of rnd.

Rnd 16: *[With CC2, MB, with MC 1 tr] four times, with MC 8 tr, with CC2, MB, with MC 1 tr; rep from * 6 times, sl st to beg of rnd.

Rnd 17: *[With CC2, MB, with CC1, 1 tr] five times, with CC1, 2 tr in next gap, with CC1, 4 tr, with CC1, 2 tr in next gap, with CC2, MB, with CC1, tr in next gap; rep from * 6 times, sl st to beg of rnd. 120 sts Rnd 18: *[With CC2, MB, with CC1, 1 tr] six times, with CC1 6 tr, with CC2, MB, with CC1, 1 tr; rep from * 6 times, sl st to beg of rnd.

Rnd 19: *[With CC2, MB, with CC1, 1 tr] seven times, with CC1, 4 tr, with CC2, MB, with CC1, 1 tr; rep from * 6 times, sl st to beg of rnd.

Rnd 20: *[With CC2, MB, with CC1, 1 tr] 8 times, with CC1, 2 tr, with CC2, MB, with CC1, 1 tr; rep from * 6 times, sl st to beg of rnd.

Rnd 21: *With CC2, MB, with CC1, 1 tr; rep from * to end, sl st to beg of rnd.

Rnds 22-24: As Rnd 21.

Rnd 25: With CC2, 2 ch *1dc in second gap; rep from * to end, sl st to beg of rnd.

60 dc FIRST SIZE ONLY: Rnd 26: 2 ch, *[1 dc in next gap] twice, 2 dc in next gap. 75 dc SECOND SIZE ONLY: Rnd 26: 2 ch, *1 dc in next gap, 2 dc in next gap; rep from * to end. Sl st to beg of rnd and fasten off securely. 80 dc

Making up Weave in all ends and trim. Block hat to dimensions given in schematic.

Make crocheted pompom With CC2 chain 4, sl st to first ch to close ring.

Rnd 1: 2 ch, 9 dc in ring, sl st to top of 2 ch.

10 dc Rnd 2: 2 ch, * 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st rep from * to end, sl st to beg of rnd.

15 dc Rnd 3: 2 ch, * 1 dc in next st rep from * to end, sl st to beg of rnd.

Rnds 4-7: As Rnd 3.

Rnd 8: 2 ch, [1 dc, mss 1 st] around. 8 dc Rnd 9: 2 ch, [1 dc, mss 1 st] around. 4 dc Fasten off and break yarn and run end through rem 4 sts and draw up. Stuff pompom at beg of work and sew in centre of hat securely.

Treble crochet stitches are worked into gaps between 2 treble stitches in previous rounds rather than in tops of stitches unless otherwise indicated

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Mystery crochet-along part 6

JANE CROWFOOT’S MYSTERY BLANKET

g n o l a t e croch

Jane Crowfoot

Sunshine & showers

October’s arrival has re-ignited Jane’s love for Halloween with a fabulously stripy section with adorable pumpkin bobbles you’ll love making Buy your kit from www.janiecrow.co.uk

DK

4mm & 4.5mm Yarn used

Stylecraft Special DK 1 ball each in 1005 cream, 1023 Raspberry, 1027 khaki, 1063 Graphite, 1065 Meadow, 1067 Grape, 1068 turquoise, 1080 Pale Rose, 1241 Fondant, 1078 Petrol, 1709 gold, 1711 Spice, 1712 Lime, 1722 Storm Blue, 1820 Duck Egg

Hooks used 4mm 4.5mm

Other supplies tapestry needle

Sizing Approximately 140x90cm

50

Sewing yarn ends in as you go along makes the finishing process much easier and means that you are less likely to lose stitches or make errors with your tension.

Tension 19 sts x 20/21 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 4mm or 4.5mm hook

Blanket construction The blanket is made from two strips, which will be joined together later to make one blanket. You need to repeat each stage so that you have two strips of crochet completed to the same point at the end of each pattern stage

W

hen I think of autumn, I think of October and when I think of October, I think of Halloween and all things pumpkin related, so it was no surprise to me that as soon as I sat down to work on my design for this month

the very first thing that came to mind was to make crocheted bobbles in pumpkin colours! I really love crochet bobbles as they are almost perfectly round and sit a lot more pronounced from the background fabric than their knitted equivalent.

I think October really is autumn at its best – here in the UK it tends to be relatively nice weather in October, before the grey murkiness and drizzle of November and December set in! I have said before that spring and summer are my favourite months, but there is something special about October I suppose because you can still be surprised by a really warm beautiful day and of course can go for long walks kicking through fallen leaves!

Last month you started a new blanket strip, which you should have made twice over. This month you are working onto the top edge of that strip, and will be using a 4.5mm hook throughout.

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Mystery crochet-along part 6

1

2

3

4

5

6

Start crocheting Undo last st and rework to the point where you can change yarn shade to Petrol on the final step of the st. Turn.

Row 11 (RS facing): Using Petrol & 4.5mm hook, 1 ch (does not count as a st) 1 dc into each st to end. Turn. 171 sts Row 12: 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc into each st to end, changing yarn shade to Grape on the final step of the last st.

Turn. 171 sts Row 13: Using Grape, 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc into each st to end. Turn.

171 sts On the next row you are going to make some bobbles!

Bobbles are a little fiddly to make, especially as they are made with the Wrong Side of the work facing you, which means you need to keep an eye on your stitch count and also need to move your yarn from back to front to avoid having yarn left on the incorrect side of the work.

I love bobbles and especially like them when they are worked in different shades to the background yarn colour. However, if you find making bobbles in this way too tricky you could always stick to working in just one colour to create textural bobbles.

Row 14: Work 4dc using Grape.

Work another dc into the next st until the last step of the stitch so that 2 yarn loops remain on the hook.

1 Bring yarn to the front.

Draw Gold through the last step of the stitch leaving a yarn tail of approximately 15cm. Yarn loop on hook is gold. 2 3 Using gold, work 5 incomplete treble crochet stitches into the next st, leaving 1 yarn loop on the hook after each stitch so that 6 loops remain on the hook.

7

Bring gold to the front.

Pick up Grape and draw through all yarn loops, pulling the yarn across the back of the bobble. Yarn loop on hook is Grape. 4 Tighten the working yarn (Grape) – do not pull too tightly as you can loose the stitch at the top of the bobble.

8

Using Grape, 1 dc into each next 3 sts.

6 Cut gold yarn.

5 1 dc into next st, catching in gold yarn as you work the stitch.

Row 15 (RS facing): Using Grape, 1 ch (does not count as a st) 1 dc into each next 5 sts, 1 dc into st at top of bobble (gold), * 1 dc into each next 7 sts, 1 dc into st at top of bobble (gold); repeat from * to last 5 sts, 1 dc into each next 5 sts, changing yarn shade to khaki on the final step of the last st. Turn. 171 sts 7 8

1 dc into each next 3 sts, changing yarn shade to gold on the final step of the last st.

Repeat from beginning of step 3 until a total of 21 bobbles have been made, (5 sts remain), ending last repeat at end of Step 10, 1 dc into last st, turn.

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Mystery crochet-along part 6

9

10

11

12

13

14

It is a good idea to check that your stitch count is correct as the end of this row!

To help you count your stitches use the following guide: Count 5 sts at the beginning of the row before the first bobble 1 stitch at the top of the next bobble [7 stitches before the next bobble, 1 stitch at the top of the next bobble] x 20 times 5 stitches at the end of the row after the last bobble = 171 sts Stitch count from here to end of this set of pattern will remain at 171 sts.

Row 16: Using khaki, 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc into each st to end of row, changing yarn shade to Graphite on the final step of the last st. Turn.

Row 17: Using Graphite, work as Row 16, changing yarn shade to Meadow on the final step of the last st. Turn.

Row 18 (WS facing): Using Meadow, 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc into each next 9 sts, changing yarn shade to Spice on the final step of the st, 9 * bring yarn forward and make a bobble (MB) as for Row 14 changing yarn shade back to Meadow once the bobble is complete (make sure that yarn tails stay on the wrong side of the work), 1 dc into each next 3 sts, 1 dc into next st weaving in Spice yarn as you work the stitch, 1 dc into each next 3 sts, changing yarn shade

52

to Spice ready for next bobble; repeat from * until 20 bobbles have been made (9 sts remain), using Meadow 1 dc into each st to end, weaving in the tail end of Spice as before and changing yarn shade to Graphite on the final step of the last st.

Turn. 171 sts 10 Again it is a good idea to check that your stitch count is definitely correct as the end of this row.

To help you count your stitches use the following guide: Count 9 sts at the beginning of the row before the first bobble 1 stitch at the top of the next bobble [7 stitches before the next bobble, 1 stitch at the top of the next bobble] x 19 times 9 stitches at the end of the row after the last bobble = 171 sts Row 19 (RS facing): Using Graphite, 1 ch (does not count as a st) 1 dc into each next 9 sts, 1 dc into st at top of bobble (Spice), * 1 dc into each next 7 sts, 1dc into st at top of bobble (Spice); repeat from * to last 9 sts, 1 dc into each next 9 sts, changing yarn shade to khaki on the final step of the last st. Turn. 171 sts Row 20: Using khaki, 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc into each st to end of row, changing yarn shade to Grape on the final step of the last st. Turn. 11 Row 21: Using Grape, work as for Row 20,

do not change yarn shade.

Row 22 (WS facing): Work bobble row as for Row 14.

Row 23: Work as Row 15, changing yarn shade to Petrol on the final step of the last st, turn. 12 Row 24: Using Petrol, 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc into each st to end, turn.

Row 25: work as Row 24, changing yarn shade to Storm Blue on the final step of the last st, turn.

Row 26: Using Storm Blue, 1 ch (does not count as a st) 1 dc into each st to end, place last st on a holder. 13 14 By stranding across the back, there are fewer ends to weave in.

Make another to match.

Each piece should measure approximately 13.5-14cm from bottom edge x 92cm wide.

Need some help making bobbles?

Head to www.crochetnow. co.uk for our video guide

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Need some yarn?

Search for your nearest Stylecraft yarn stockist at www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk or buy your ready-to-go kit for ÂŁ29.50 from www.janiecrow.co.uk

It’s never too late to join in!

Like the look of our Sunshine & Showers crochet-along, but missed issues 2-6? You can buy digital copies that you can read on your iPad and other devices.

Buy them now online at www.moremags.com Coming next time

Add a border to your blanket

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Baby

Ruth Maddock 54

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Baby

Damson

JACKET

Incorporating a gorgeous rose motif, this little coat is a gorgeous addition to your little one’s cold weather wardrobe Aran

4.5mm

★★ Adventurous Yarn used Rooster Almerino Aran 7 (8, 9) balls in Spiced Plum 308 (MC) 1 ball each in Sorbet 321 (A), Gooseberry 306 (B)

About the yarn Aran; 94m per 50g ball; 50% baby alpaca, 50% Merino wool

Tension 14 sts x 14 rows = 10cm over stitch pattern st Rose Motif Square = 9.5cm square

Hook used 4.5mm

Other supplies 3 buttons

Sizing 6-12 (12-24, 24-36) months Chest: 48.5 (53.5, 58.5) cm Actual Chest: 58 (63, 68) cm Back Length: 40 (44.25, 49.75) cm Sleeve Seam: 18 (20, 22) cm

Start crocheting Rose Motif Square (make 8 (9, 10)) Rnd 1: With A, working into a magic ring, 3 ch (counts as 1 tr) 11 tr, pull tail to close slightly. do not join, sl st into the ring.

12 tr Rnd 2: 3 ch, *miss next 3 tr of prev rnd, insert hook from the back between the 3rd and 4th stitches and work 1 dc into the magic ring, 3 ch; rep from * two more times, end with sl st into first of the 3 ch sp. Tighten magic ring and weave in end.

4 3ch-sps Rnd 3: 3 ch (counts as first tr), [1 ch, 4 dtr, 1 ch, 1 tr] in first 3ch-sp behind Rnd 1, *1 dc in next dc, [1 tr, 1 ch, 4 dtr, 1 ch, 1 tr] in next 3ch-sp; rep from * twice more, sl st back into first ch-sp. 4 petals Rnd 4: *3 ch, insert hook from the back between the 2nd and 3rd of the centre group of 4 dtr, and work 1 dc into the 3ch-sp of 2nd rnd, 3 ch, 1 dc into the next dc of 2nd rnd; rep from * three more times, omitting last dc, sl st back into first 3ch-sp. 8 3ch-sp Rnd 5: 3 ch (counts as first tr), [1 ch, 4 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr all worked into first 3ch-sp. * 1 dc into next dc, [1 tr, 1 ch, 4 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr] all worked into next 3ch-sp; rep from * seven more times, 1 dc back into first chsp, sl st to 3rd of beg 3-ch. 8 petals Fasten off.

Rnd 6: With B, sl st in sp between 3rd and 4th tr of any centre group of tr of Rnd 5 – at top edge. 3 ch (counts as first tr), [2 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr, 1 ch] in same sp, * insert hook

from back to front between 3rd and 4th tr of next centre group of tr at lower edge, and work 3 tr in 3ch-sp of 4th rnd, 1 ch, [3 tr,2 ch, 3 tr] in sp between 3rd and 4th tr of next centre group of trebles at top edge, 1 ch, rep from * twice more, insert hook from back to front between 3rd and 4th tr of next centre group of trebles at lower edge, and work 3 tr into the 3ch-sp of 4th rnd, 1 ch, sl st to top of beg 3ch.

Fasten off and break yarn.

Rnd 7: With MC, sl st to any corner ch-sp, 2 ch (counts as first htr), 2 htr in same 2 chsp, * 11 htr, 3 htr in next 2ch-sp, rep from * twice more, 11 htr, sl st in top of beg 3-ch. Fasten off and break yarn.

Sew the motifs together at side edges, so that they form 1 long strip of 8 (9, 10) motifs, measuring 76 (85.5, 95) cm long.

Lower Border of Coat With MC, chain 107 (119, 133).

Row 1: [1 tr, 1 dc] in 2nd ch from hook, * miss next ch, [1 tr, 1 dc] worked into next ch; rep from * to last st, 1 dc worked into last st. Turn. 108 (120, 134) sts Row 2: 1 ch (counts as 1 dc), * [1 tr, 1 dc] worked into next dc, miss next tr; rep from * to last 2 sts, miss next tr, 1 dc in last st. Turn.

Row 2 forms the pattern, rep Row 2 until work measures 5 (6, 7 cm). Fasten off.

Upper Border of Coat Work as given for the lower border, until work measures 12 (14, 16) cm.

Decrease Row: pattern across first 4 sts, [double decrease over next 4 sts] 4 (5 ,6) patt over next 20 (20, 21) sts, [pattern decrease over next 4 sts] 7 (8, 9) times, patt over next 20 (20, 21) sts, [double decrease over next 4 sts] 4 (5, 6) times, patt over rem 4 sts. Turn. 78 (84, 92) sts

Divide for armholes Right Front Next Row (RS): Patt across first 18 (20, 22) sts. Turn and work on these sts only as follows; Dec 1 st at beg of next and foll alt row.

Special stitches

Double Decrease over next 4 sts: 1 tr in next dc, dc2tog over next 1 tr and 1 dc, miss next tr

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Baby Buttonhole Band With RS facing and starting at lower corner of front edge, join MC with sl st, 1 ch (does not count as st), work 60 (66, 72) dc to neck edge.

Row 1: 1 ch (does not count as dc), 1 dc in each st to end. Turn. 60 (66, 72) dc Row 2: Rep Row 1.

Row 3: 1 ch (does not count as dc), 1 dc in each dc to within 20 (22, 24) dc of end, [miss next 2 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc in each of next 6 (7, 8) dc] twice, miss next 2 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc in each of last 2 dc. Turn.

Rows 4 & 5: as Row 1. Fasten off.

Buttonband Work as for buttonhole band, omitting buttonholes.

Shape neck Cont in patt on these 16 (18, 20) sts until 13 (14, 15) rows from beg of armhole shaping ending at armhole edge.

Shape neck Next Row: Patt to last 3 sts turn and work on these 13 (15, 17) sts only. Turn.

Dec 1 st at neck edge only of next 4 (5, 6) rows. 9 (10, 11) sts Fasten off. 18 (20, 22) rows from beg of armhole shaping

Back With RS facing miss next 2 sts and rejoin yarn with sl st to next st, 1 ch (counts as 1 st dc), work in patt across next 37 (39, 43) sts.

Turn and work on these 38 (40 ,44) sts only.

Next 4 rows: [Dec 1 st at each end of next and foll alt row] twice. 34 (36, 40) sts Cont in patt until 17 (19, 21) rows have been worked.

Shape back neck Next Row: Patt across first 8 (9, 10) sts, dc2tog. Fasten off and break yarn.

Count across next 14 (14, 16) sts, rejoin yarn with sl st to next st, 1 ch, (counts as first dc), dc2tog, patt to end. Fasten off.

Left Front With RS facing, miss next 2 sts and rejoin yarn with sl st to next st.

Next Row: 1 ch (counts as first dc), patt to end. Turn. 18 (20, 22) sts Dec 1 st at armhole edge of next and foll alt row.

Cont in patt on these 16 (18, 20) sts until 13 (14, 15) rows from beg of armhole shaping ending at neck edge.

56

Next Row: Sl st across first 3 sts, 1 ch (counts as first dc), patt to end. Turn. 13 (15, 17) sts Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 4 (5, 6) rows.

Fasten off. 18 (20, 22) rows from beg of armhole shaping

Sleeves With MC, chain 27 (31, 33) and work in patt as given for the lower border of coat. 28 (30, 32) sts Next 6 rows: Work even in pattern. Turn.

Increase Row: Inc 1 st at each end of row (incorporating these sts into the patt).

Turn.

Rep last 7 rows until there are 34 (36, 40) sts, continue in patt until work measures 18 (20, 22) cm.

Shape top of sleeve Next Row: Sl st into first st, 1 ch (counts as first dc) patt to last st, Turn, leaving last st unworked. Turn. 32 (34, 38) sts Dec 1 st at each end of next and every foll alt row until there are 24 (26, 28) sts.

Dec 1 st at each end of every row until 12 (10, 10) sts rem.

Next Row: Patt across 8 (7, 7) sts. Turn.

Next Row: Patt across 4 sts.

Fasten off.

Making up With WS facing place last row of lower edge to long edge of squares, and over sew together so that work lays flat when opened out. Attach first row of upper border to other long edge in the same manner.

From WS over sew both shoulder seams together so that they lie flat when opened out. Sew sleeve seams in the same way.

Pin top of sleeves into armhole and over sew into place.

Collar With WS facing and MC and starting at middle of button band, work 16 (17, 18) dc to left shoulder, 20 (20, 22) dc across back to right shoulder, 16 (17, 18) dc to 3rd row of buttonhole band. Turn. 52 (54, 60) dc Row 1: 1 ch (does not count as dc), Dc across. Turn.

Row 2: 1 ch (does not count as dc), 14 (15,16) dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 18 (18, 20) dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 14 (15, 16) dc. Turn.

56 (58, 64) dc Row 3: Rep Row 1.

Row 4: 1 ch (does not count as dc), 14 (15, 16) dc, [2 dc in next dc, 1 dc] 3 times, 17 (17, 19) dc, [2 dc in next dc, 1 dc] 3 times, 13 (14, 15) dc. Turn. 62 (64, 70) dc Row 5: Rep Row 1.

Row 6: 1 ch (does not count as dc), 14 (15, 16) dc, [2 dc in next dc, 2 dc] 3 times, 16 (16, 18) dc, [2 dc, 2 dc in next dc] 3 times, 13 (14, 15) dc. Turn. 68 (70, 76) dc Row 7: Repeat Row 1.

Row 8: 1 ch (does not count as dc), 27 (28, 29) dc, 2 dc in next dc, 12 (12, 14) dc, 2 dc in next dc, 27 (28, 29) dc. Turn. 70 (72, 78) dc Row 9 & 10: as Row 1.

Fasten off.

Finishing Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

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Toy

Daisy-May’s WARDROBE

Meet Daisy-May, the sweet little doll that loves a good costume change. Each month, we’ll be adding a new design to her clothes rail, so make your doll and crochet along with us!

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Toy

Lynne Rowe

Pull yarn end gently to close ring.

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st. 12 sts Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts Rnds 8-16: Dc around.

Rnd 17: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts Rnd 18: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts Rnd 19: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts Doll’s head is complete. Continue with body.

Body

Note: The position of the increases which are on rnds 22-25 are the shoulders.

DK

3.5mm, 4mm

★ Beginner friendly Yarn used Hayfield Bonus DK 1 ball each in Flesh Tone 963 (A), Chocolate 947 (B), Clover 793 (C), Lemongrass 699 (D), Paprika 700 (E)

About the yarn DK; 280m per 100g ball; 100% acrylic

Hooks used 3.5mm 4mm

Other supplies Oddments of black & red yarn or embroidery thread for face details (or use a pair of 6mm toy safety eyes for over three years only) toy stuffing stitch markers pins tapestry needle 2 1cm buttons

Rnd 22: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 14 sts Rnd 23: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 16 sts Rnd 24: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 18 sts Rnd 25: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 20 sts Rnd 26: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 25 sts Rnd 27: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 30 sts Rnd 28: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times. 35 sts Rnds 29-43: Dc around.

Rnd 44: [1 dc2tog, 10 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, sl st in next st. 32 sts Fasten off.

Fill head and body firm with toy stuffing, making sure the neck area is very firm and the shoulder increases on rnds 2225 are at the sides of the body. If using safety eyes, place them in position and when happy with position, remove toy filling and fix in place according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Note: The body should be a flat shape rather than a rounded shape.

Bring the stitches of Rnd 44 together to form a straight edge and whip-stitch through the back loops. Weave in ends.

Arms (make 2) With A and smaller hook, chain 4.

Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 dc, 3 dc in last ch, turning as you go, work into the other side of the chain, 1 dc, 2 dc in next ch. 8 sts Rnd 2: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts Rnds 3-22: Dc around. After Rnd 22, sl st in next st. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2) Rnd 1: With A and smaller hook, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts Pull yarn end gently to close ring.

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st. 10 sts Rnd 3: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts Rnds 4-6: Dc around.

Turn and work in rows for heel.

Heel 1: Miss first st, 7 dc, miss 1 st, 1 dc.

Turn.

Heel 2: Miss first st, 5 dc, miss 1 st, 1 dc.

Turn.

Heel 3: Miss first st, 3 dc, miss 1 st, 1 dc.

Turn.

Heel 4: Miss first st, 1 dc, miss 1 st, 1 dc.

Do not turn; cont with Rnd 7.

Rnd 7: Working into the sides or tops of sts as necessary, 12 dc evenly around. 12 sts Rnds 8-12: Dc around.

Rnd 13: 2 dc in first st, dc around. 13 sts Rnds 14-27: Dc around. After Rnd 27, sl st in next st. Fasten off.

Sizing Approximately 30cm

Start crocheting BASIC DOLL Head Rnd 1: With A, smaller hook, and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

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Toy Hair Base

With B and smaller hook, chain 11.

Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across to last ch, [1 dc, 1 sl st] in last ch, turning as you go, work into the other side of the chain, 10 dc. 20 dc Curls: 11 ch, make curl, sl st in first dc of base, 11 ch, make curl, sl st in next dc, 17 ch, make curl, sl st in same dc, 26 ch, make curl, sl st in next dc, *26 ch, make curl, sl st in next dc; rep from * 14 times turning to work on the opposite side after 7 reps, 26 ch, make curl, sl st in same dc, 17 ch, make curl, sl st in next dc, 11 ch, make curl, sl st in same dc, 11 ch, make curl, sl st in next dc. Fasten off.

Note: The shorter curls are the front fringe.

Making up

Fill arms, leaving upper arms unstuffed.

Gather the top sts to close the hole and sew each arm to side of body.

Fill feet and legs with toy stuffing, leaving top of legs unstuffed so they can bend, allowing the doll to sit. Bring the stitches of the last rnd together to form a straight edge and whip-stitch through the back loops. Sew each leg to lower body.

With the shorter curls at the front, pin centre of hair piece to centre of head (from front to back) and pin in place along the central dc row. Unravel each curl for approximately 2cm and pin the straight part of each curl to the head to create a flat section at centre of hair. When happy with placement, use matching yarn and running stitch to sew the flattened section in place. If desired for a neat finish, pin some curls to the lower part of head and tack in place using matching yarn.

Add eyes using black yarn, mouth using red yarn and a nose using Colour A, by working a few small stitches in the same place.

BASIC OUTFIT Pantaloons Leg 1: With C and larger hook, chain 16, sl st to first ch to work in the round (amigurumi style).

Rnd 1: 1 ch, dc around. 16 sts Rnds 2-3: Dc around. After Rnd 3, sl st in next st. Fasten off.

Leg 2: Work as given for Leg 1 to the end of Rnd 3, do not sl st and do not cut yarn.

Joining legs Rnd 1: 2 ch, dc around Leg 1, 2 ch, dc around Leg 2. Place marker for new start of rnd. 32 dc

Don’t worry about the gap in between the legs, this will be sewn up later.

Rnd 2: Dc in each st and ch around. 36 sts Rnds 3-6: Dc around.

Rnd 7: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts Rnds 8-10: Dc around.

Rnd 11: Dc in BLO around, sl st in next st.

Fasten off. Use yarn ends to sew gap between Leg 1 and 2 closed. Weave in ends.

Leg Edging

Join C to any st around the edge of one leg, *2 ch, sl st in next st; rep from * to end, working last sl st at base of beg 2 ch.

Fasten off. Repeat for second leg edge.

BASIC DRESS

With C and larger hook, chain 23.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, [3 dc, 2 dc in next ch] twice, 6 dc, 2 dc in next ch, 3 dc, 2 dc in next ch, 3 dc. Turn. 26 sts Row 2: 1 ch (not counted as a st throughout), 3 dc, 6 ch, miss 6 sts, 8 dc, 6 ch, miss 6 sts, 3 dc. Turn. 14 dc Row 3: 1 ch, dc in each st and ch around.

Turn. 26 sts Row 4: 1 ch, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice. Turn. 30 sts Row 5: 1 ch, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times.

Turn. 36 sts

Rows 6-7: 1 ch, dc around. Turn.

Row 8: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr now and throughout), [5 tr in FLO, 2 tr in FLO in next st] 6 times. Turn. 42 sts Row 9: 3 ch, tr around. Turn.

Row 10: 3 ch, tr in FLO around. Turn.

Row 11: 3 ch, tr around. Turn.

Rows 12-13: Rep rnds 10-11. Fasten off.

Neckline Edging

Row 1: With RS facing, join C to top right corner of neck edge, 1 ch (not counted as a st), dc around. 22 sts Fasten off.

Armhole Edging

Work for both arm openings.

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join C to any st around arm opening, 1 ch (not counted as a st), evenly space 14 dc around arm opening, sl st to first dc. 14 sts Rnd 2: *2 ch, sl st in next st; rep from * to end, working last sl st at base of beg 2 ch.

Fasten off.

Weave in ends.

Finishing

Bring the back edges of the dress together and whip-stitch the lower half together using matching yarn. Sew a button to one side of the neck and make a loop with matching yarn on the opposite edge.

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Toy Bottom Edging

With RS facing, join C to any st on lower edge of dress, work as Rnd 2 of Armhole Edging.

HALLOWEEN COSTUME Leggings Leg 1: With D and larger hook, chain 16, sl st to first ch to work in the round (amigurumi style).

Rnd 1: 1 ch, dc around. 16 sts Rnds 2-12: Dc around. After Rnd 12, sl st in next st. Fasten off.

Leg 2: Work as for Leg 1 to the end of Rnd 12, do not sl st and do not cut yarn.

Join as given for Pantaloons ‘Joining Legs’ to end, including the edging which is worked with Colour E.

Dress

Work as given for Basic Dress through Row 11, in the following colour sequence: Rows 1-7: With D. Rows 8-9: With E. Rows 10-11: With D. Work lower edging with E and omit both neckline and armhole edgings.

Finish as given for Basic Dress.

Shoes (make 2)

Work in amigurumi style.

With D and larger hook, chain 6.

Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 dc, 3 dc in last ch, turning as you go, work into the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 dc in first ch. 12 sts Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 16 sts Rnd 3: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 20 sts Rnd 4: Dc around.

Rnd 5: 6 dc, 4 dc2tog, 6 dc. 16 sts Sl st in next st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

BAG

Work in amigurumi style.

With D and larger hook, chain 9.

Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 7 dc, 3 dc in last st, turning as you go, work into the other side of the chain, 6 dc, 2 dc in first ch.

Rnds 2-9: Dc around.

Rnd 10: Sl st in next st, crab stitch around top of bag. Fasten off.

Strap

With D and larger hook, chain 50.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. 49 sts Fasten off. Sew strap to inside edges bag.

60

Tiny Pumpkin Embellishment Rnd 1: With E, larger hook, and working into a magic ring, [1 dc, 1 htr, 4 tr, 1 htr] twice, 1 dc, change to B, sl st into ring, pull yarn end to close ring then continue with stalk.

Stalk

Continuing with B, chain 4.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sl st. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Sew pumpkin to either side of bag.

The bag is worn crossbody and fits over the legs first.

PUMPKIN

With E and larger hook, chain 10.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 5 dc, 4 htr. Turn. 9 sts Row 2: 1 ch (not counted as st throughout), dc in BLO across. Turn.

Row 3: 1 ch, 5 dc in BLO, 4 htr in BLO. Turn.

Row 4: As Row 2.

Rows 5-20: Rep rows 3-4 eight times.

Bring the first row up behind the last row and sl st row ends together to join,

working through the back loops of Row 20 and the chain stitches of Row 1.

With E, gather one open end, pull tight to close the gap and fasten off. Fill with toy stuffing then gather the remaining edge closed, adding more toy stuffing as necessary.

Pull tight to close the gap. Fasten off.

Vine Leaves

Rnd 1: With D, smaller hook, and working into magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts Pull yarn end gently to close ring.

Rnd 2: [4 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 1 sl st in next dc] twice, 10 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 9 sl st, 1 sl st in next dc, 17 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 16 sl st, 1 sl st in next dc, 4 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 1 sl st in next dc, 10 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 9 sl st, 1 sl st in last dc. Fasten off.

Stalk

With B and smaller hook, chain 5.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sl st.

Fasten off. Sew Stalk to the centre of Vine Leaves then sew Vine Leaves to top of pumpkin, twisting the long vines before sewing in place (use photo as a guide).

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

CN07 P34 DRESS UP DOLL.indd 60

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AvicraftWool We stock Sirdar, Rico, King Cole, Woolcraft, James C Brett, and Louisa Harding

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Plus a massive selection of buttons, haberdashery and knitting notions

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Celebrating and Sharing Our Love of British Wool Proud stockists of Blacker Yarns and West Yorkshire Spinners

Check out our website to explore our huge range of British yarns and to read our Woolly Principles

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Open 5 days a week, with regular workshops and UFO groups.

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12/09/2016 15:35

Garment The pattern opens up considerably once blocked, so it is essential to block your tension swatch before measuring

Jane Howorth 62

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

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Garment

BIG DIPPER COAT Calling on super-warm alpaca blend yarn, this jacket is perfect for stargazing on a winter’s night

Start crocheting Collar With larger hook, chain 46.

Row 1 (WS): Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across, pm in 15th and 30th sts. Turn.

Rows 2-8: Work in Spike Patt.

Lengthen working loop and remove hook.

Shoulder Extensions Chunky

8mm, 10mm

★★ Creative construction Yarn used Bergere de France Mérinos Alpaga 16 (17, 19, 20, 22, 23, 24) balls in Groseille 29919

About the yarn Chunky; 65m per 50g ball; 60% Merino wool, 40% alpaca

Tension 9 sts x 11 rows = 10cm in Spike Patt

Hooks used 8mm 10mm

Other supplies removable stitch markers tapestry needle 5 x 2.5mm diameter buttons

Sizing XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X), designed to fit with 15-22cm positive ease

Special abbreviations Spk: Spike st Work begins at the Collar and continues downwards in this seamless design.

Join new ball of yarn with sl st in 15th st, ch 11 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25). Fasten off.

Rep at 30th st.

Left Front Return hook to working loop and tighten.

15 sts in Patt, 11 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25) dc in FLO of first chain extension. Turn. 26 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts Cont in patt until work measures 22 (22, 22, 22, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5) cm. 24 (24, 24, 24, 28, 28, 28) rows Fasten off.

Back Join yarn with sl st in unused loop of last ch at end of first Shoulder Extension, 1 ch, 11 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25) dc in FLO, 15 sts in patt for Back Neck, 11 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25) dc in FLO of second Shoulder Extension. 37 (45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65) sts Cont in patt until work measures 22 (22, 22, 22, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5) cm. 24 (24, 24, 24, 28, 28, 28) rows Fasten off.

Right Front Join yarn with sl st to last ch at end of second Shoulder Extension, 1 ch, 11 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25) dc in FLO, 15 sts in patt. Turn.

26 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts Cont in patt until work measures 22 (22, 22, 22, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5) cm. Turn. 24 (24, 24, 24, 28, 28, 28) rows

Join Body Pm at start of row to mark buttonhole position, cont in patt across Right Front, 1 ch, pm in 1ch-sp, cont in patt across Back,

1 ch, pm in 1ch-sp, cont in patt across Left Front. Turn. 91 (107, 115, 123, 131, 139, 147) sts Cont in patt (incorporating marked sts at underarm into patt on first row) until work measures 43 (43, 45, 45, 45, 45, 45) cm from underarm. Fasten off.

Sleeves (make 2) Rnd 1 (RS): Join yarn with sl st in marked st at underarm, 1 dc in same st, dc around sides of dc sts at row ends of armhole edge as follows: *2 dc, 1 dc2tog; rep from * to end, join with sl st to first dc.

Turn. 37 (37, 37, 37, 43, 43, 43) sts Move marker up as work progresses to help locate first st of rnd.

Rnds 2-4: Work in Spike Patt.

Dec Rnd: 1 ch, 1 dc in marked st, 1 dc2tog, cont in patt to last 2 sts, 1 dc2tog, join with sl st to first dc. Turn. 35 (35, 35, 35, 41, 41, 41) sts Cont in Spike Patt and rep Dec Rnd every 6th row 5 more times. 25 (25, 25, 25, 31, 31, 31) sts Work even in patt until Sleeve measures 47 (47, 47, 47, 49, 49, 49) cm, ending after a WS row. Do not fasten off.

With smaller hook, work 1 rnd Rev Dc. Fasten off.

Pockets (make 2) With larger hook, chain 18 (18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20). Turn.

Stitch patterns

Spike St (spk):Insert hook in next stitch 1 rnd below, yrh, pull up a loop to height of current rnd, yrh, pull through both loops on hook Reverse double crochet (Rev Dc): Working from left to right, insert hook into next stitch to the right, yrh, pul, yrh, draw through both loops Spike Patt: Row 1: 1 ch, *1 dc, 1 spk; rep from * to last st, 1 dc. Turn.

Row 2: 1 ch, 1 dc, *1 dc, 1 spk; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 dc. Turn.

Rep rows 1-2 to form Patt

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Garment Row 1 (WS): Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. Turn.

Row 2: Work in Spike Patt to end.

Buttonhole Row: 8 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9) sts in established patt, 1 ch, miss next st, cont in patt to end.

Next Row: Cont in Patt to end, working a st in 1ch-sp at centre of row.

Cont in Patt until Pocket measures 18 (18, 18, 18, 19.5, 19.5, 19.5) cm, ending after a WS row. Do not fasten off.

With smaller hook, work 1 rnd Rev Dc around all edges of Pocket, working 2 Rev Dc in each corner. Fasten off.

Half Belt With larger hook, chain 18 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32). Turn.

Row 1 (WS): Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. Turn.

Rows 2-7: Work in Spike Patt. Do not fasten off.

With smaller hook, work 1 rnd Rev Dc around all edges of Half Belt, working 2 Rev Dc in each corner. Fasten off.

Buttonhole

Cute back detail

With smaller hook, join yarn with sl st to marked st below Collar on Right Front, 3 ch, join with sl st to st below marked st.

Fasten off.

Edging

Schematic

47 (47, 47, 47, 49, 49) cm 22 (22, 22, 22, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5) cm

With RS facing and starting at Centre Back hem, work Rev Dc around all edges of coat, working 3 Rev Dc in 3ch-sp for Buttonhole, and 2 Rev Dc in each corner. Fasten off.

Block all pieces to dimensions shown in Schematic. With tapestry needle and length of yarn, sew button to Left Front, opposite Buttonhole and 9cm in from Left Front edge. Sew Pockets to Left and Right Fronts, placing Pockets 8.5 (10.5, 11.5, 13, 14, 15) cm in from Front edges and 3cm up from hem. Sew buttons to Coat, aligned with Pocket buttonholes. Fold Coat in half lengthways to locate centre of hem on Back, pm. In same way, locate centre of Half Belt, pm. Align centres, positioning Half Belt 13 (13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15) cm up from hem, sew in place around all sides. Sew buttons to ends of Half Belt, 2.5cm in from vertical edges, remove all markers, work in loose ends.

64

43 (43, 45, 45, 45, 45, 45) cm

Finishing

100 (117.5, 126.5, 135, 144, 152, 163) cm

It is easy to remember where you are in the Spike Pattern if you look at the stitch below the one you are about to work: if the stitch below is a dc, work a spk; if it is a spk, work a dc

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The yarn review

THE YARN REVIEW 66

| www.crochetnow.co.uk

CN07 P66 Yarn Review.indd 66

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The yarn review This time, we look at three yarns that really are the best of British, from indie producers to major yarn brands

BLACKER YARNS CLASSICS ARAN Aran; 70m per 50g ball; 100% British wool One of Blacker Yarns’s biggest selling points as a brand is its knowledge of how to deftly combine the fleece of different sheep breeds to endow the resulting yarn with certain qualities. Take its Classic Aran for example, all made from British breeds, but each bringing something different to the party.

The Bluefaced Leicester helps to soften the yarn, while the slightly heathered Hebridean or Manx fleece gives the natural ecru colour some depth and interest. Then the yarn is either left as a natural shade, or subtly dyed to keep richness and definition to the twist of the yarn.

This classic yarn is available in DK, 4-ply and chunky as well as the Aran, making it an easy choice for your next project.

Colour choices?

The range available in this yarn isn’t quite as large as some of Blacker’s yarn, but it goes beyond the staples to bring in some particular tasty shades such as Mustard and turquoise that showcase how well this yarn takes the dye. However, this range works perfectly together tonally, with all the shades having a similar level of vibrancy, which means they’d work perfectly together as a patchwork blanket.

Value for money? £4.40 for a 50g ball from www.blackeryarns.co.uk makes it the most expensive yarn in this issue’s review, but in terms of treating yourself for a special project, you get such a great sense of where this yarn comes from and the love that goes into it that you’ll get an extra warm feeling when you throw on a scarf crocheted in Blacker.

WEST YORKSHIRE SPINNERS SIGNATURE 4-PLY 4-ply; 400m per 100g ball; 75% British wool, 25% nylon West Yorkshire Spinners has really worked hard to challenge the perceptions of British wool. Alongside the classic, natural colourways, it’s created a range of lustworthy colours and interesting rainbow prints that makes it a truly attractive prospect for crochet.

This expands across its range, including Aire Valley Aran, but we’re reviewing its Signature 4-ply – a perfect yarn for shawls and socks with nylon to make it durable and easy to work with.

All its fleeces are sourced in the UK, and spun up in Yorkshire at the WYS mill, where the company really takes pride in the provenance and quality of the fibre.

Colour choices?

Signature 4-ply comes in a range of specially curated ranges – Sweet Shop is full of brilliantly bright, almost neon shades, while Spice Rack contains sophisticated stylish shades. Its special prints pick out colours from these ranges – we’ve used Rum Paradise from the Cocktail range, which picks out shades from Sweet Shop, while you’ll find the Spice Rack shades in the Country Birds range, which gives you great options for mix and matching solids and this printed yarn.

Value for money?

With retailers for just over £7 per 100g ball, you’re not in the same price bracket as acrylic yarn at all, however, in return you’re getting quality, unique colours and the knowledge you’re supporting the British wool industry and all those who work in it.

WENDY TRADITIONAL ARAN Aran; 146m per 100g ball; 100% British wool While many of the major yarn brands have said goodbye to their British sheep wools in the past year, Wendy continues to pack two in its roster. Wendy Ramsdale is one of its newer launches, while Traditional Aran seems as though it just might have been around forever.

As the name suggests, it has got traditional uses in mind at its heart, perfect for knitting a beautifully intricate Aran jumper for winter, but that doesn’t mean it’s not perfect for crochet too. Fabulously crispy and firm, this is a durable yarn that’ll last a lifetime.

This yarn is not superwash, so while it’s less suited to making baby clothes and blankets, it does mean it’s great for felting – and would make a great substitute for the felted bag on page 38.

Colour choices?

Given its classic, traditional nature, there’s not a huge range of colour here however, alongside with staples of grey, cream, red and navy, you’ll find some pretty, heathered colours in purples and turquoises that we really love.

Value for money?

With www.woolwarehouse.co.uk selling a 100g ball for £3.49, it’s incredible value for money for the quality of this yarn. For a jumper you could be looking at around £30 finished using brilliant British wool – that sounds like a great deal to us!

Turn over to make this pattern www.crochetnow.co.uk | 67

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The yarn review

Puff Flower Aran or 4-ply 5mm or 3mm Yarn used Aran or 4-ply

Start crocheting Chain 12, join with sl st to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, dc around. 12 sts 1 Rnd 2: 2 *3 ch, [ 3 insert hook into same st, yrh and pull up loop to same height as beg 3 ch 4 ] 3 times 5 , [insert hook into next st, yrh and pull up loop to same height as beg 3 ch 6 ] 3 times, yrh and pull through all loops on hook 7 , 3 ch, sl st into next st 8 ; rep from * around.

6 puff petals made Fasten off. Weave in ends. 9

Hook used 5mm (for Aran) 3mm (for 4-ply)

Sizing 5.5cm diameter (for Aran) 3cm diameter (for 4-ply)

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| www.crochetnow.co.uk

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Specialising in knitting, yarn, & accessories 80 High Street, Coleshill West Midlands, B46 3AH 01675 466 418 Stockists of King Cole, Stylecraft, Sirdar, James C. Brett , Rico crochet cotton, Lion Brand and much more

Independent Crochet Specialist Massive range of hooks including: Clover Amour, Clover Soft Touch and KnitPro Symfonie Tunisian crochet hooks • Hairpin crochet frames • Broomsticks • Pattern booklets • Crochet cotton from 5s to 100s weight Workshops and talks by arrangement Email: helen@threadoflife.co.uk Tel: 07702 392935 34 Shann Avenue, Keighley, West Yorkshire, BD21 2TL

www threadoflife.co.uk

Use code CNW10 to get 10% off your online order

Hand Dyed Silks for Crochet Luxury www.willowknits.etsy.com Facebook: WillowKnits

Opening Hours Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday 10:00 - 16:30 Wednesday 10:00 - 13:00 We stock a wide range of knitting yarns, including a large selection of baby yarns. To support our yarns we have a wide range of knitting pins, crochet hooks including circular needles, haberdashery and knitting patterns.

We also now run workshops! Please visit our website for more details! www.whichcraftwools.co.uk 7 Station Way, Cheam Village, Surrey, SM3 8SD

Knitting, Crochet, Felting, Loom Knitting, Haberdashery, Patterns, Workshops

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Alafoss, Debbie Bliss, DMC, James C Brett, Jarol, King Cole, Noro, Sirdar, Stylecraft 100% Wool, Acrylics, Blends, Cotton, 2 Ply, 3 Ply, 4 Ply, DK, Aran, Chunky, Super Chunky, Scarf Yarn 3-5 Hitchin Street, Baldock, Herts, SG7 6AL 01462 612 889

www.wool-n-things.co.uk info@wool-n-things.co.uk

call Amanda on

0844 826 0617 www.crochetnow.co.uk | 69

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THE BIG

MANDALA SWAP Fancy taking part in a fun community project which will see you get creative and even make a new crochet friend?

Find out how to get involved and find your local mandala drop-off point here!

Make a mandala, send it in to us, we’ll swap it with another crocheter, and you’ll make a new connection in the crafty community – simple!

To take part in The Big Mandala Swap, you will be required to make a mandala of around 20cm diameter or larger, parcel it up and send it to the address below before 1st January 2017: The Big Mandala Swap Crochet Now, Practical Publishing Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG Alternatively, you can drop off your sealed envelope at any participating yarn shop listed here – these will be collected free of charge and returned to the shop, ready for you to pick up again a few weeks after the closing date. If you choose to do this, you may want to add your phone number to your stamped self-addressed envelope so that the shop can let you know once your package has arrived.

Exclusive Sirdar mandala design available at your

Inside the envelope, you should also include a written letter – by hand or by computer if handwriting is not possible – telling your eventual recipient a little about your life and your crocheting, as well as a stamped self-addressed envelope, so that your partner’s mandala can be sent to you.

You may also want to share contact details, such as address, email address or social media handles if you’d be happy to talk to your partner once you’ve received your mandala.

Your local swap shops Wales Ammonite Yarns If you love crochet you’ll love us. We stock yarn, from cotton to wool, laceweight to superchunky. Visit us and be inspired.

7 Llantrisant Road Pontyclun CF72 9DP 01443 520200 www.facebook.com/AmmoniteYarns www.ammoniteyarns.co.uk Rosemary’s Wool Shop We are knitting yarn specialists stocking Debbie Bliss, Noro, Louisa Harding, Wendy and Sirdar yarn as well as cross stitch and haberdashery supplies. We hold regular knitting and crochet workshops.

Birmingham House, 22 Alban Square Abaraeron Ceredigion SA46 0AH 01545 905051 enquiries@rosemaryswoolshop.co.uk www.rosemaryswoolshop.co.uk Abakhan – North Wales We stock all big brands and are a Bergere de France premium stockist. We have patterns, haberdashery and fabric! We run free demonstrations, workshops, knitting surgeries and a knit & natter group. We have a café and are open seven days.

Llanerch-y-Mor, Coast Road Mostyn Flintshire CH8 9DX 01745 562100 enquiries@abakhan.co.uk www.abakhan.co.uk

local drop-off point!

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Trangeloons We stock yarn, patterns and habdashery. In our cosy workroom we offer crochet lessons, knit and natter, children’s club and advice.

19-21 Hall Street West End Llanelli SA15 3BB 01554 751667 facebook.com/trangeloons

England: North Black Sheep Wools Craft Barn Visit our Craft Barn and browse the best selection of yarn, patterns, books and accessories in the UK. Eat cake in our tea shop and enjoy a fabulous day out.

Warehouse Studios, Glaziers Lane, Culcheth, Warrington, WA3 4AQ 01925 764231 Mandala Mornings!

17th & 31st October Craft Hive An Aladdin’s cave of wool, fabric, embroidery and papercrafts, we love crochet, knitting, needle felting, quilting and cardmaking. We have weekly groups that meet in our craft rooms.

16c Front Street West Bedlington Northumberland NE22 5UB 01670 821758 info@crafthive.co.uk www.crafthive.co.uk Ready Steady Knit Everything you need for knitting and crochet.

We have weekly crochet clubs, regular crochet workshops, or one-to-one lessons.

17b Front Street Prudhoe Northumberland NE42 6PT 01661 830671 wool@readysteadyknit.com www.readysteadyknit.com Twist & Purl We’re premium stockists of Bergere de France and stock Rico, Sirdar, Stylecraft, J Brett, Knitpro.

We also hold crochet and knitting workshops.

1 Bradford Road Cleckheaton Yorkshire BD19 5AG 01274 873279 knit@twistandpurl.co.uk www.twistandpurl.co.uk

10% OFF

at your local mandala swap shop* *Offer expires 28th December. In-store purchases only.

Some exceptions apply. Ask your retai ler for details

Yankee Yarns Ltd Dubbed The United Nations of Knitters by locals, we welcome all flavours of people.

Knitting/crochet groups meet Mondays 7:30-9pm and Wednesdays 6-7:30pm, group or individual knitting and crochet lessons daily.

185 Westfield Lane, Mansfield Nottinghamshire, NG19 6EH 07428 138131 yankeeyarns@gmail.com

Sew Creative Ltd Visit our Aladdin’s cave! We stock a wonderful selection of wool and yarn, knitting and crochet accessories, haberdashery and fabric. Our team of knowledgeable, friendly staff is happy to help!

58 King Street Cambridge CB1 1LN 01223 350691 www.sewcreative.co.uk cambridge@sewcreative.co.uk

Yarn Etc. We are a creative hub in Harrogate stocking yarn for all tastes with Learn to Crochet classes being run in a colourful inspiring environment. Stockists of Scheepjes, Stylecraft, and more!

17 Knaresborough Road Harrogate Yorkshire HG2 7SR 01423 885565 yarnetc@mail.com

England: South West

The Skep Crochet, Knitting, & Quilting Shop!

Debbie Bliss, Louisa Harding, Rico, Juniper Moon, Stylecraft, and Knitpro.

We also stock over 1,000 patchwork fabrics and hold lots of classes.

Springfield Commercial Center, Bagley Lane, Farsley, Leeds LS28 5LY 0113 236 2570 theskep@btinternet.com www.theskepknittingandquiltingshop.co.uk

England: East Grimsby Sewing & Knitting We stock a range of yarn starting from £1 a ball, as well as patterns and buttons. We hold a crochet group most Saturdays 2-4pm. We sell a wide range of fabric and haberdashery.

212-216 Freeman Street Grimsby DN32 9DR 01472 343921 grimsbysewingandknitting@gmail.com www.craft-fabrics.com

Mandy Wools at Wells Knitting Centre We are a friendly, traditional Wool Shop catering for all knitters, crocheters, and crafters. We sell hundreds of patterns, yarns, and haberdashery. You want it, we’ve got it!

5 Mill Street Wells Somerset BA5 2AS 01749 677548 shirley@mandywools.fsnet.co.uk www.mandywools.co.uk

England: North West Sewendipity Sewendipity is a small family business selling yarn, crafts,haberdashery, knitting, crochet, crafting, and sewing. Beginner and mandala crochet workshops are still running, ask us for details.

43 Melbourne Street Stalybridge SK15 2JJ 0161 465 6820 Facebook - sewendipitysandra Twitter - Sandra@SewendipityS Sew Tilly Mint We are a wool and haberdashery shop in the heart of our village. With a variety of workshops there’s something for everyone!

1a Fairfield Road Ainsdale Southport PR8 3LH 01704 575813 www.sewtillymint.co.uk www.facebook.com/sewtillymint www.crochetnow.co.uk | 71

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Abakhan – Liverpool Our yarn department’s packed with brands plus all your knitting and crochet needs! We stock haberdashery and fabric. Free demos, knit and natter group and knitting and crochet surgery. Open seven days.

34-44 Stafford Street Liverpool L3 8LX 0151 207 4029 enquiries@abakhan.co.uk www.abakhan.co.uk Abakhan – Chester Our shop in the centre of Chester stocks yarn, patterns, fabric, haberdashery and craft products. We’re packed full of all the major brands. We have free demos at weekends throughout the year. Open seven days.

65 Frodsham Street Chester City Centre CH1 3JJ 01244 323640 enquiries@abakhan.co.uk www.abakhan.co.uk Abakhan – Manchester We stock everything for knitting and crochet, including a huge range of yarn, patterns and accessories. There’s also haberdashery, craft and fabric! Free demos are run at weekends throughout the year. Open seven days.

111-115 Oldham Street Manchester M4 1LN 0161 839 3229 enquiries@abakhan.co.uk www.abakhan.co.uk Abakhan – Birkenhead We have an array of yarn, patterns and accessories! A monthly knitting and crochet surgery is here to solve your problems. Look out for our free demos! We also stock fabric and haberdashery. Open seven days.

8-12 Greenway Road Birkenhead CH42 0NG 0151 652 5195 enquiries@abakhan.co.uk www.abakhan.co.uk

Become a swap shop!

If you own a yarn shop and want to be included in our listings, call Amanda on 0844 826 0617

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Abakhan – Bolton Our yarn department’s packed full and our monthly knitting and crochet surgery and demos are really popular and busy!

The store has a huge range of fabric, craft, haberdashery, and trimmings – we’ve got something for everyone! Open seven days.

Unit 2b Burnden Park, Manchester Road Bolton BL3 2NE 01204 388430 enquiries@abakhan.co.uk www.abakhan.co.uk Abakhan – Preston We stock everything for knitting and crochet including yarn, patterns, craft, fabric and haberdashery. We run a monthly knitting and crochet surgery, as well as free demos at weekends. Open seven days.

Unit 3b Corporation Street Preston PR1 2UQ 01772 202 677 enquiries@abakhan.co.uk www.abakhan.co.uk

England: Midlands Stitch Solihull We stock all you need for crochet. We run workshops for beginners and improvers, including Tunisian Crochet.

Cedar Cottage, Notcutts Garden Centre, Stratford Road Shirley B90 4EN 0121 314 6888 sales@stitchsolihull.com www.stitchsolihull.com TOFT Run by the brains behind Edward’s Menagerie and Crochet Now columnist Kerry Lord, the TOFT farm shop has yarn, workshops, cake, tours and more.

Dunchurch Rugby Warwickshire CV22 6NR 01788 810626 www.thetoftalpacashop.co.uk Crafts by Design A family-owned and run business, specialising in quality yarn by WYS, Colinette, Patons and Rowan, KnitPro, Clover and Pony hooks and needles.

21 Leicester Street Melton Mowbray Leicestershire LE13 0PP 01664 668140 craftsbydesignmelton@gmail.com www.craftsbydesign.co.uk

England: East Anglia The Knitters Attic We have a fantastic range of yarn, patterns and accessories; some completely exlusive to us. We love to hear from our customers and we’re always happy to help!

2 Peartree Cottage Bredfield Woodbridge Suffolk IP13 6AH 01394 547077 enquiries@theknittersattic.co.uk www.theknittersattic.co.uk

South Avicraft Wool A family business proud of customer service and the range of our yarn. We run a knit and natter group too!

15 Chatterton Road Bromley BR2 9QW 0208 290 1238 sharonthesheep@gmail.com www.avicraftwool.com The Wool Bar Co. Beautiful yarn and fabric from the UK and around the world; haberdashery, gifts and vintage finds too.

2 The Broadway, Brighton Road Worthing West Sussex BN11 3EG 01903 235445 thewoolbar14@gmail.com www.thewoolbar.com

Scotland The New Wool Shop A traditional wool shop selling a host of yarn including Sirdar, Wendy etc. Call in for experienced advice.

17 North Methven Street Perth Perthshire PH1 5PN 01738 440183 mail@kate3.plus.com Threads Your one-stop shop for crochet. We stock KnitPro, Stylecraft, DMC, King Cole, and West Yorkshire Spinners etc. Classes available.

143 Glasgow Road Dumbarton G82 1RQ 01389 761385 www.threadswoolshop.co.uk

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The book club

Each month we’re expanding our literary horizons with a new yarn classic. This month, Lynne Rowe’s new book Twenty To Make: Crocheted Mandalas is the perfect tie-in with our Big Mandala Swap Campaign

W

hen we asked ever-busy designer Lynne Rowe to contribute to our Mandala Swap booklet back in issue 5, she described herself as already in ‘mandala mode’, working on this new release, however, she shows she’s never short of pattern ideas. With one designer creating a whole book on one topic, you have to marvel at the variety in design their brains allow, and it’s no different with Twenty to Make: Crocheted Mandalas.

These 20 patterns use a variety of different yarns and stitches to create ideas to suit any taste, from fun, exciting variegated numbers with all the colours you could want to a monochrome design that Editor Hugh particular loves.

Some people question why crocheters make mandalas – but our answer is always “Why not?”. They’re fun, quick projects that allow you to try out techniques on a small scale, and even if you’re not planning on sending in any mandalas for The Big Mandala Swap, they make for cute table toppers that are sure to brighten up any sideboard.

They’re also great for using up scraps, and these designs by Lynne especially so. Just turn over for her beautifully bright rainbow mandala as a case in point, and if you’ve caught the mandala bug, be sure to take advantage of some of the great reader offers Search Press has to offer this issue, here and on page 45.

About the book Crocheted Mandalas,

by Lynne Rowe, published by Search Press, £4.99

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The book club

RAINBOW MANDALA

Lynne Rowe CN07 P73 BOOK CLUB.indd 74

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The book club

Lynne’s colourful design is the perfect scrap-buster for taking part in The Big Mandala Swap Sport/DK

3.5mm

★ Learn some stitches Yarn used DMC Woolly Small amounts red, orange, yellow, green, turquoise, purple

About the yarn Sport/DK; 125m per 50g ball; 100% Merino wool

Hook used 3.5mm

Sizing Approximately 25cm across

Start crocheting Using red yarn, chain 5, sl st into 5th ch from hook to make a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr here and throughout), 15 tr into ring, sl st to top of beg 3-ch to join. 16 dc Cut yarn and fasten off. Join orange yarn to any tr.

Rnd 2: Puff stitch in same st, 1 ch, [puff st in next st, 1 ch] 15 times, sl st to top of first puff st. 16 puff sts, 16 1ch-sps Fasten off. Join yellow yarn to any 1ch-sp Rnd 3: Beg 3 tr-cluster in same sp, 2 ch, [3 tr-cluster in next 1-ch sp, 2 ch] to the end, sl st to top of beg 3 tr-cluster. 16 3 tr-clusters, 16 2ch-sps Fasten off. Join green yarn to any 2ch-sp.

Rnd 4: 3 ch, 2 tr in same 2ch-sp, 1 ch, [3 tr in next 2ch-sp, 1 ch] to the end, sl st to top of beg 3-ch. 64 sts Fasten off. Join turquoise yarn to any centre dc of any 3 tr group.

Rnd 5: 1 ch (not counted as a st), 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in next st, 1 tr in top of next Rnd 3 puff st (2 rounds below), *1 dc in each of next 3 tr, 1 tr in top of next Rnd 3 puff st (2 rounds below); rep from * to the last st, 1 dc in last st, sl st to first dc.

64 sts Fasten off. Join purple yarn to any dc.

Rnd 6: 1 ch (not counted as a st), 1 dc in same st, [2 ch, miss next st, 1 dc in next st] to the last st, 2 ch, miss last st, sl st to first dc. 32 dc, 32 2ch-sps Fasten off. Join yellow yarn to any 2ch-sp.

Rnd 7: 1 ch (not counted as a st), 1 dc in same sp, [2 ch, miss next dc , 1 dc in next 2-ch sp] to the last dc, 2 ch, miss last dc , sl st to first dc. 32 dc, 32 2ch-sps Fasten off. Join green yarn to any 2ch-sp.

Rnd 8: 3 ch, 2 tr in same 2-ch sp, [3 tr in next 2-ch sp] to the end, sl st to top of beg 3-ch. 96 dc Fasten off. Join turquoise yarn to any tr.

Rnd 9: Rep Rnd 6. 48 dc, 48 2ch-sps Fasten off. Join purple yarn to any 2ch-sp.

Rnd 10: Rep Rnd 7. 48 dc, 48 2ch-sps Fasten off. Join red yarn to any 2ch-sp.

Rnd 11: 1 ch (not counted as a st), 2 dc in same 2-ch sp, [miss next dc, 2 dc in next

2ch-sp] to the end, miss last dc, sl st to first dc. 96 sts Fasten off. Join orange yarn to any dc.

Rnd 12: 3 ch, 1 tr in same st, 1 tr in each of next 2 sts, [2 tr in next st, 1 tr in each of next 3 sts] to end. 120 sts Fasten off. Join yellow yarn to any tr.

Rnd 13: 5 ch (counts as 1 tr, 2 ch), [miss 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, 2 ch] to the end, sl st to 3rd of beg 5-ch. 60 tr, 60 2ch-sps Fasten off. Join green yarn to any tr.

Rnd 14: 1 ch (not counted as a st), 1 dc in same st, [1 tr in spare tr from Rnd 12 (working in front of Rnd 13 sts), 1 dc in next tr] to the last st, 1 tr in spare tr from Rnd 12, sl st to first dc. 120 sts Fasten off. Join turquoise yarn to any tr.

Rnd 15: 1 ch (not counted as a st,) 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, [1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] to the end, sl st to first dc. 160 sts Fasten off. Join purple yarn to BLO of any dc .

Rnd 16: 3 ch, 1 tr BLO in every st to the last 2 sts, tr2tog BLO, sl st to top of beg 3-ch. 159 sts Fasten off. Join red yarn to any tr.

Rnd 17: [Miss next st, 4 tr in next st, miss next st, sl st in next st] to the last 3 sts, miss next st, 4 tr in next st, miss last st, sl st to beg sl st.

Fasten off. Weave all loose ends into WS and trim.

Special stitches

Puff stitch: *Yrh, insert hook into stitch, yrh, draw hook back through stitch (3 loops on hook), rep from * twice more (7 loops on hook), yrh, draw through all 7 loops. 1 puff stitch made Beg 3tr-cluster: 2ch, *yrh, insert hook into stitch, yrh, draw hook back through stitch, yrh, draw through first 2 loops (2 loops left on hook), rep from * once more (3 loops left on hook), yrh, and draw through all 3 loops 3tr-cluster: *Yrh, insert hook into stitch, yrh, draw hook back through stitch, yrh, draw through fi rst 2 loops (2 loops on hook), rep from * twice more (4 loops left on hook), yrh, and draw through all 4 loops

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Introducing...

CROCHET DIRECTORY!

Inspired to start your next crochet project? Check out these fabulous businesses in your local area READING

ALTON, HANTS

NOTTINGHAM

ROSIE’S WOOL KNITTING READING TOGETHER • Wool • Knitting/Crochet Needles • Patterns • Buttons • Haberdashery • Knit & Natter Groups Unit 2, 7 Cheapside, Reading RG1 7AG Tel - 0118 9595919 Email - rosieswool@gmail.com

Shirmart Crafts WE OFFER A VAST RANGE OF YARNS AND HABERDASHERY 8 Market Street, Alton, Hants, GU34 1HA 01420 541 977 johnmorse10@btinternet.com

You’re very welcome to visit our shop or online store for yarns, patterns and accessories to suit all budgets.

Knowledgeable and friendly advice at all times.

5 Main Road, Gedling, Nottingham, NG4 3HQ

0115 9613081

www.knitworking.co.uk

www.rosieswool.co.uk

HARROGATE

NORTH DEVON

SUFFOLK

Bears & Stitches

ALTON, HAMPSHIRE

For all of your cardmaking, jewellery, knitting, crocheting and sewing needs.

77 High Street Ilfracombe Devon EX34 9NQ Open 6 days a week. ✆ 07976 603823 ✆ 01271 268353

STAFFORDSHIRE

Crochet Cottons including Wendy Cotton Supreme, DMC Natura XL Accessories for all your crochet needs.

Stockists of Sirdar, Wendy, and King Cole.

12,000 button designs Haberdashery, ribbons, trimmings, needlecrafts and lots more For mail order Duttons for Buttons, Oxford St. Harrogate HG1 1QE Tel. 01423 502092 e: michelle@duttonsforbuttons.co.uk www.duttonsforbuttons.co.uk www.facebook.com/DuttonsforButtons Personal shoppers welcome Harrogate, York and Ilkley

CUMBRIA

The Quilted Sheep

7 Tudor Row, Wade Street Lichfield, Staffordshire WS13 6HH

Needlework, Knitting Wools, Collectors Teddy Bears Steiff, Dolls House furniture.

01543 417 700

Open Mon - Sat 9:30 - 4:30 Closed Wednesday

www.knitiqueonline.com

4 Cumberland Street, Woodbridge Suffolk, IP12 4AB 01394 388999

NORTH YORKSHIRE

to advertise in

The Old Bakehouse Main Street Milnthorpe LA7 7PN 01539 565800 Patchwork & quilting fabrics, yarns for knitting & crochet, embroidery supplies & haberdashery. Authorised dealer for Brother sewing machines Beginner quilting classes & workshops Mon – Sat 10:00 – 5:00

www.thequiltedsheep.co.uk

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call Amanda on 0844 826 0617

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Quick makes

Make Christmas sparkle!

Turn over for your free kit designs! | www.crochetnow.co.uk

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Quick makes Use your free yarn kit to make one or two of these fab decoration designs, and bust your stash for the rest!

Aran

5mm & 5.5mm

★ Beginner friendly Yarn used A Sprinkle of Sparkle Yarn 1 ball each in Gingerbread (A), Robin (B), Snow (C)

About the yarn Aran/worsted; 100% acrylic

Tension Tension is not critical for this project, but ensure to keep your stitches tight to ensure stuffing doesn’t show through.

Many designs use nearly a whole ball so aim to achieve the stated finished size

Hooks used 5mm 5.5mm

Other supplies toy eyes yellow embroidery thread stuffing

Sizing Rudolph/Robin: 6cm Snowflake: 12cm Bauble: 8cm Gingerbread man: 14cm Stocking: 12cm

Special abbreviations

Dtr2(3)tog: *Yrh twice, insert hook into next st, yrh, pull up one loop, [yrh hook, pull through two loops on hook] twice; rep from * 2 or 3 times, yrh hook, pull through all loops on hook

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Rudolph Start crocheting This pattern is worked in an amigurumi style for the main part.

Nose Rnd 1: With B and 5mm hook, 6 dc into a magic ring.

Rnd 2: 2 dc into each st around. 12 dc Rnd 3: Dc around.

Rnd 4: Dc2tog around. 6 dc Fasten off.

Muzzle Rnd 1: With C and 5mm hook, 6 dc into a magic ring.

Rnd 2: Dc around.

Rnd 3: 2 dc into each st around. 12 dc Rnd 4: Dc around.

Fasten off, leaving 10cm tail for making up.

Sew nose on end with tapestry needle.

Head Rnd 1: With A and 5mm hook, 6 dc into a magic ring.

Rnd 2: 2 dc into each st around. 12 dc

Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] around. 18 dc Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] around. 24 dc Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] around. 30 dc Rnds 6-9: Dc around.

Rnd 10: [Dc2tog, 3 dc] around. 24 dc Rnd 11: [Dc2tog, 2 dc] around. 18 dc Rnd 12: [Dc2tog, 1 dc] around. 12 dc Sew on Muzzle piece before arranging features. Insert eyes and stuff firmly.

Rnd 13: Dc2tog around. 6 dc Fasten off, leaving a 10cm tail. With a tapestry needle, weave tail through last sts and pull tight to close.

Ears (make 2) With A and 5mm hook, chain 6.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc, 3 htr, 1 dc.

Fasten off. Attach to head at this tail end, using the sewing up to shape the ear.

Antlers (make 2) With C and 5mm hook, chain 9.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 4 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, continue working in original chain, 5 dc.

Fasten off with 10cm tail and sew to top of head on inside of ears.

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xxx

Robin Start crocheting This pattern is worked in an amigurumi style for the main part.

Red Breast Rnd 1: With B and 5mm hook, working into a magic ring, 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), 11 tr into ring, join with sl st in beg 3 ch. 12 sts Rnd 2: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr in same st, 2 tr in each st around. 24 sts Fasten off.

Body Work as for Rudolph Head, stuffing after Rnd 12 and attaching the Red Breast piece before inserting eyes.

Wings (make 2) With A and 5mm hook, chain 8.

Row 1: Starting in 3rd ch from hook, work dtr3tog across next 3 sts. Fasten off.

Sew to sides of body.

Finishing With yellow embroidery thread or yarn and 5mm hook, chain 6.

Row 1: Starting in 4th ch from hook, work dtr2tog across next sts. Fasten off.

Sew to make beak on front of Robin.

Mini Stocking Start crocheting With C and 5mm hook, chain 21.

Rnd 1: Starting in 4th ch from hook, tr across, join with sl st in beg 3 ch to work in the rnd, switching to B in the last st.

Rnds 2-4: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr here and throughout), tr around, join with sl st in beg 3 ch.

Fasten off C. Join B in any st. The next section is worked in rows.

Row 1: 3 ch, 7 tr. Turn. 8 sts Row 2: 3 ch, 2 tr, [2 tr in next st] twice, 3 tr.

Turn. 10 sts Row 3: 3 ch, tr across. Turn.

Row 4: 3 ch, 2 tr, [tr2tog] twice, 3 tr.

Fasten off C. With WS of this flat piece held together, sew along the bottom edge using C and a tapestry needle.

Re-join B into corner st where B and C meet currently.

Rnd 5: 3 ch, tr around, ensuring 6 tr are worked evenly into each side of tr stitches which make up heel, join with sl st in beg 3 ch. 24 sts Rnds 6-7: 3 ch, tr around, join with sl st in beg 3 ch.

Rnd 8: 3 ch, tr2tog, [1 tr, tr2tog] around. 16 sts Rnd 9: Tr2tog around. 8 sts Rep Rnd 9 once more. 4 sts Fasten off, leaving a 10cm tail. With a tapestry needle, weave tail through last sts and pull tight to close.

Bauble Start crocheting This pattern is worked in an amigurumi style for the main part.

Rnd 1: With A and 5.5mm hook, 6 dc into a magic ring.

Rnds 2-3: Dc around.

Change to A in final st of Rnd 3.

Rnd 4-13: Work as for Rudolf Head, changing to C in rnds 7 & 8, and stuffing firmly after Rnd 12.

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Quick makes

Snowflake Start crocheting Rnd 1: With C, working into a magic ring, 4 ch (counts as 1 tr and 1 ch), [1 tr, 1 ch] 5 times, join with sl st in 3rd of 4 ch.

Rnd 2: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr in same st, 2 ch, *2 tr in next st, 2 ch; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg 3 ch.

6 2tr groups Rnd 3: 1 ch, *1 dc in next st, 7 ch, sl st in 4th ch from hook, 3 ch, sl st in 4th ch from hook, 3 ch, sl st in 4th ch from hook, sl st down next 3 ch, 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next 2ch-sp; rep from * around. 6 spokes

Gingerbread Man Start crocheting Head Rnd 1: With A and 5mm hook, working into a magic ring, 2 ch (counts as 1 htr), 8 htr into ring. 9 sts Rnd 2: 2 ch, 1 htr in same st, 2 htr in each st around.

Body Rnd 3: 6 fhtr, 3 htr in last fhtr made, continue to work into opposite side of fhtr, 6 htr, join with sl st to next st on head circle and then into next st on Head.

Rnd 4: htr in last htr on Rnd 3, 6 htr, 3 htr in

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next st, 7 htr, join with sl st in next st on Head piece.

Arms (make 2) Rnd 5: 7 ch, staring in 3rd ch from hook, 5 htr, sl st into next 6 sts, 8 ch, starting in 4th ch from hook, 5 tr, miss 1 st on body, 1 tr in centre st on base of body, 8 ch, starting in 4th ch from hook, 5 tr, miss 1 st on body, sl st in next 6 sts, 7 ch, staring in 3rd ch from hook, 5 htr, sl st into next st at base of head.

Rnd 6: Around head, work [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] around, dc around arm, making 2 dc in st at top of arm, dc around to legs, dc around legs making 2 dc in st at top of legs, repeat for second leg, dc around to second arm, dc around arm, making 2 dc in st at top of arm, sl st in first dc of rnd to join.

The body of this smart cookie is worked without breaking the yarn once! Look for help with foundation sts on page 47

Gumdrop Buttons (make 2) With B and 5mm hook, chain 5.

Row 1: In 5th ch from hook, 4 trcl.

Fasten off.

Finishing Embroider eyes, or use toy eyes if you don’t mind them sticking out the back. Pin Gumdrop Buttons in place and weave in ends to back of Body to keep in place.

With C and tapestry needle, create a smiley mouth and sew bands along the arms and legs using chain stitch.

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DO YOU WANT TO BUILD A

SNOWMAN?

Louise’s clever idea using soft magnets means these cute snowmen will provide hours of fun for children

Louise Watling www.crochetnow.co.uk | 81

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Toy DK

3.5mm

★ Beginner friendly Yarn used King Cole Merino Blend DK 3 balls in white 1 (MC), 1 ball each in gold 55 (CC1), Copper 109 (CC2), Royal 21 (CC3), Scarlet 9 (CC4), magenta 793 (CC5), Chocolate 23 (CC6), turquoise 18 (CC7), Kingfisher 771 (CC8), Mustard 855 (CC9), black 48 (CC10)

About the yarn DK; 112m per 50g ball; 100% pure new wool

Tension 20 sts x 21 rows = 10cm measured over dc

Hook used 3.5mm

Other supplies toy stuffing stitch marker tapestry needle 6 x 19mm flexible magnetic discs fabric glue masking tape

Sizing 17cm high excluding hats

Pattern notes Most pieces are worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains. Use a stitch marker to mark the end of each rnd Unless otherwise stated, turning chains do not count as a stitch Pin out and spray cold water onto neck pieces before making up

Start crocheting Body (make 3) Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc.

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 dc Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] around. 18 dc Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] around. 24 dc Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] around. 30 dc Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] around. 36 dc Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] around. 42 dc Rnd 8: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] around. 48 dc Rnd 9: Sl st into next st, 1 dc in BLO in same and each st around.

Rnd 10: Dc around.

Rnd 11: [2 dc in next st, 7 dc] around. 54 dc Rnd 12: Dc around.

Rnd 13: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc] around. 60 dc Rnds 14-16: Dc around.

Rnd 17: [Dc2tog, 8 dc] around. 54 dc Rnds 18-19: Dc around.

Rnd 20: [Dc2tog, 7 dc] around. 48 dc Rnds 21-22: Dc around.

Rnd 23: [Dc2tog, 6 dc] around. 42 dc Rnds 24-25: Dc around.

Rnd 26: [Dc2tog, 5 dc] around. 36 dc Rnds 27-28: Dc around.

Rnd 29: [Dc2tog, 4 dc] around. 30 dc Rnd 30: Dc around.

Rnd 31: [Dc2tog, 1 dc] around. 20 dc Stuff body firm.

Rnd 32: Sl st into next st, dc2tog in BLO in same and each st around. 10 dc Rnd 33: [Dc2tog] around. 5 dc Fasten off. Thread yarn end in tapestry needle, weave through rem sts and pull tight.

Glue one flexible magnetic disc to top of each body. Place some masking tape across top of magnet, press down firmly and stick masking tape to sides of body. Remove masking tape after glue has completely dried.

Coal Buttons (make 9) Rnd 1: With CC10, working into a magic ring, 6 dc.

Fasten off. Thread yarn end in tapestry needle and sew last st to first making a circle. Sew three coals to front of one body.

Sew six coals to front of one body in three rows of two.

Mittens (make 2) With CC5, chain 5.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. Turn. 4 dc Rows 2-3: 1 ch, 3 dc. Turn. 3 dc

82

Row 4: 2 ch (counts as 1 htr), 1tr, 1htr.

Fasten off. Sew mittens to front of body without coals.

Head (make 3) Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc.

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 dc Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] around. 18 dc Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] around. 24 dc Rnd 5: Sl st into next st, 1 dc in BLO in same and each st around.

Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] around. 30 dc Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] around. 36 dc Rnd 8: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] around. 42 dc Rnds 9-16: Dc around.

Rnd 17: [Dc2tog, 5 dc] around. 36 dc Rnd 18: [Dc2tog, 4 dc] around. 30 dc Rnd 19: [Dc2tog, 3 dc] around. 24 dc Rnd 20: [Dc2tog, 2 dc] around. 18 dc Rnd 21: [Dc2tog, 1 dc] around. 12 dc Stuff head firm.

Rnd 22: Dc2tog around. 6 dc Fasten off. Finish as for Body.

Carrot Nose Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 3 dc.

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 6 dc Rnds 3-4: Dc around.

Fasten off. Sew to first head.

Apple Nose Rnd 1: With CC7, working into a magic ring, 4 dc.

Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] around. 6 dc Fasten off. Sew to second head. With CC7, embroider two rows of 2 chain stitches for moustache.

Orange Nose Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 4 dc.

Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] around. 6 dc Fasten off. Sew to third head.

With CC10, embroider eyes and mouth on each head.

Bobble Hat Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc.

Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] around. 8 dc Rnd 3: Dc around, changing to CC1 in final st. Fasten off CC3.

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Toy

Flexible magnets come in different shapes and sizes and can be cut to size if discs aren’t available

Rnd 4: 2 dc in each st around. 16 dc Rnd 5: Dc around.

Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] around. 24 dc Rnd 7: Dc around.

Rnd 8: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] around. 32 dc Rnd 9: Dc around.

Rnd 10: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] around. 40 dc Rnds 11-12: Dc around.

Rnd 13: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] around. 48 dc Rnds 14-15: Dc around.

Sl st into next st. Fasten off CC1.

Reattach CC3 to any st at back of hat.

Rnds 16-18: Dc around.

Fasten off. Stuff bobble. Using CC1 sew around base of bobble and pull up tightly to define shape. Place hat on first head and sew around bottom edge to secure.

Top Hat Rnd 1: With CC6, working into a magic ring, 6 dc.

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 dc Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] around. 18 dc Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] around. 24 dc Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] around. 30 dc Rnd 6: Sl st into next st, 1 dc in BLO in same and each st around.

Rnds 7-11: Dc around.

Rnd 12: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] in FLO around. 36 dc Rnd 13: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] around. 42 dc Fasten off. Stuff hat. Place hat on second head and sew around bottom inner edge to secure.

Headphones Strap With CC4, chain 18.

Row 1: Starting in 3rd ch from hook, htr across.

Fasten off. Place across top of third head and sew in place.

Rows 2-3: 1 ch (does not count as stitch), dc across. Turn.

Fasten off. Place head on body. Place scarf around neck and cross ends. Sew scarf where it crosses so it can be removed and still hold its shape.

Headphones Earpieces (make 2)

Bow-Tie Neckband

Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc.

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 dc Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] around. 18 dc Rnd 4: Sl st into next st, 1 dc in BLO in same and each st around.

Rnd 5: Dc around.

Rnd 6: [Dc2tog, 1 dc] around. 12 dc Rnd 7: Dc2tog around. 6 dc Fasten off. Stuff earpieces. Thread yarn end in tapestry needle, weave through rem sts and pull tight. Sew to sides of third head so they meet the ends of the strap.

With CC9, chain 32.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. Turn. 31 dc Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.

Fasten off. Sew ends together.

Long Scarf With CC1, chain 72.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. Turn. 71 dc Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.

Fasten off. Place head on body. Tie scarf around neck loosely. Sew scarf knot to secure so it can be removed and still hold its shape.

Short Scarf

Bow-Tie Bow With CC9, chain 3.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. Turn. 2 dc Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.

Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st across. Turn.

4 dc Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in first st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 dc Rows 5-9: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.

Row 10: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc2tog, 1dc. Turn.

4 dc Row 11: 1 ch, dc2tog across. Turn. 2 dc Rows 12-13: 1ch, dc across. Turn.

Rep rows 3-13 once more.

Fasten off. Sew row ends together. Flatten bow so the narrow section is central, sew to neckband.

With CC8, chain 50.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. Turn. 49 dc

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COSY ROBIN cushion

This charming colourwork design is as perfect for a casual country home as it is for those who just love the festive season

ZoĂŤ Potrac 84

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Home DK

4.5mm

★★ Fun with intarsia!

Yarn used Cascade 220 3 balls in Natural 8010 (A), 1 ball each in Chocolate 2403 (B), Fog Hatt 2442 (C), Tan 1208 (D), Ginger 2414 (E) Available from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

About the yarn DK; 200m per 100g; 100% Peruvian Highland Wool

Tension 15 sts x 20 rows = 10cm measured over dc

Hook used 4.5mm

Row 35: 14 dc, ch2, miss 2 dc, [13 dc, ch 2, miss 2 dc] twice, 14 dc. 60 sts Row 36: 14 dc, 2 dc in 2 ch-sp, [13 dc, 2 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice, 14 dc. 60 sts Rows 37-40: Dc across. 60 sts Fasten off and break yarn.

Back of Cushion (Plain Piece) Using A, chain 61.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 60dc.

60 sts Rows 2-40: Dc across. 60 sts Fasten off and break yarn.

Making up Using mattress stitch, sew the pieces together; with right sides facing, first attach the buttonhole piece to the front. Then attach the plain piece and turn right side out. There will be an overlap between the two back pieces to allow the cushion to flex without the inside peeping out.

Sew on buttons to the plain back piece in line with the buttonholes on the adjacent piece.

Other supplies 30x40cm cushion insert 3 x 20mm diameter buttons tapestry needle

Hints and tips

This cushion uses tapestry crochet techniques for working in colour.

When changing colour, on the stitch before the colour change, complete the final yarn over and pull through using the new colour.

When adding a new colour, a few stitches before, start crocheting over the end of the new colour of yarn to attach it.

When the same colour needs to be used again later in the row, ‘carry’ the colours along the row by crocheting over the yarn, keeping it behind the work In this cushion, Yarn B will show through Yarn A if you carry it along the row; when working rows 2126 I suggest winding a separate small ball of brown and attaching it separately rather than carrying the yarn between the leg and tail.

Chart 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 1 2 3 4

Sizing 30x40cm

5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Start crocheting

15 16 17 18 19

Front

20

Using A, chain 61.

Row 1 (RS): Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 60dc. 60 sts Rows 2-60: Dc across, changing colours according to the chart.

Fasten off and break yarn.

23

21 22 24 25 26 27

A

28 29

B

30 31

C

32 33

D

34 35

E

36

When complete, to further define the edges of the pattern you can outline it using surface crochet or by sewing a backstitch in the matching colours.

37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47

Back (buttonhole piece)

48

Using A, chain 61.

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 60dc.

60 sts Rows 2-34: Dc across. 60 sts

51

49 50 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

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Basics

HOW

to read a pattern If you’re new to the world of crochet, here’s a beginner’s guide to getting started with a crochet pattern

Reading a pattern line There are many different ways to write a crochet pattern, but all the patterns inside Crochet Now use the same style, which we’ll clarify here for easy reference.

Using numbered Rows or Rounds (Rnds) is the best way to keep your place in a pattern. Take notice of whether the pattern says Rows or Rnds, as it’ll also signify whether you should be working the piece flat or in the round if not stated already.

1 2

In Crochet Now, the instructions for working a basic stitch will be given with the instruction of how many stitches are worked in succession. For example, the instruction ‘4 dc’ will tell you to work a double crochet stitch into the next four available stitches on the row below.

Increases are signified by the instruction ‘in the same st’ or ‘in the next st’. As an example, ‘4 dc in the next st’ will mean working four double crochet stitches into the next available st.

Square brackets are used in patterns to show a complete instruction, which is then followed by a further instruction outside the bracket. For example, ‘[3 dc, 2 dc in the next st] 4 times’ means that ‘3 dc, 2 dc in the next st’ will be worked four times in succession.

Another way of indicating a repeat is to use *, followed by an instruction to repeat from * a certain number of times.

Round brackets within pattern instructions will signify sizing – so make sure you pay attention to the Sizing section of the project materials column. If a pattern states S (M, L) then in the instructions 20 (24, 28) dc, you work the number of stitches required that corresponds to the size you are working only.

86

3

1. About the yarn If you can’t get hold of the pattern yarn, or want to substitute it for another yarn, this box is important. Not only does it tell you the weight of yarn, it also gives an insight into the fibre make up (in case you want to create something that looks similar) as well as the yardage, so you can ensure you buy enough yarn length in the substituted yarn. If not, you might find yourself with a different dyelot, which could cause a subtle, but noticeable shift in the colour of your project.

2. Tension For most crochet projects, a tension square is important – especially with wearable items such as garments, accessories and baby clothes. How tightly or loosely you crochet is important for sizing, so crocheting a small square in the suggested pattern is an indicator of whether the final project will turn out the right size. If your tension does not match the suggested tension, adjust your hook size as required. Many people do not look at tension for amigurumi toys, however,

yours may end up a different size if you have a looser or tighter tension.

3. Stitch patterns If you come across a term outside of the common abbreviations included in this issue, it may be a special stitch. Look out for separate instructions outside of the pattern, which will explain how to make the stitch.

Finishing Apart from toys, most projects should be blocked to relax the yarn into its new shape. This is done by wetting the object, either in warm water, with a spray bottle or by steaming it. Then shape it and leave to dry. This can be just laid out flat, pinned out on a blocking or foam board or with the likes of hats, some people even pop them over inflated balloons.

Charts A crochet symbol diagram is in essence an X-ray of the finished crocheted item.

Crochet symbol diagrams are excellent for all skill levels, and some beginners find

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Basics that they are able to tackle more complex stitch patterns much earlier. They don’t suit all stitchers, particularly those who aren’t visual learners in the first place, but with a few tips and pointers, even those who are less intuitive visually will be able to successfully read a diagram and stitch a lovely piece.

Let’s look at the chart from the Crosshatched Cowl on page 42 as an example of something a little trickier to read.

First up, find your key. While you may recognise some of the symbols from previous chart reading experiences, you need to remember that different people draw charts differently, and what meant a treble stitch before may mean a half treble now.

So let’s begin – this pattern starts with what might be a new symbol to you – the foundation treble. The symbol combines the treble and chain stitch, giving you a little clue as to how it functions. Start at the red arrow, with 4 ch – giving you your turning chain to reach the same height as a treble stitch, before making the required number of ftr around before joining up with a sl st to complete the round.

8 7 6 5 stitches, Row 4 gives us the the tricky cable stitches. The chart gives you a clear visual indication of how this works, and if you ensure you always start the stitch with its placement at the top of the stitch, and work into the stitch in the bottom of the stitch, you’ll be set with this design.

Charts are a great way to look at cables, as they explain them much more coherently

than words could. Follow the chart along the row as set from the top, placing the stitches in the row below as required.

Working in rows joined into the round means that this design only ever is worked on the right side, so you don’t have to 4 st rep worry about reversing raised treble fronts and raised treble backs in understanding these instructions!

Chart 8 7 6

Despite the fact this pattern is worked in one colour, we’ve changed the colour of Row 2, to make sure you can clearly see the distinction between the two – very important when our cables come into play.

5

1 ch is your turning chain, but doesn’t count as a stitch, then continue to work the 1 dc, 1 RtrF around.

After the simplicity of Row 3’s treble

1

4 3 2

4 row rep

You read a crochet chart from bottom to top when worked in rows, or from the inside out when working in rounds. This design is worked in rows joined together to form the round cowl, and you’ll see a little number next to each to signify which row you’re on. This chart is slightly unusual in that the starting point is in the middle of the chart – this is because the crosshatched cable crosses over the beginning turning chain. All this means you’ll not be working from right to left and then left to right, but from the centre right to left, then from the right hand side from right to left for each row.

sl st ch dc ftr tr RtrF RtrF2tog

4 st rep

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sl st

4 3 2 1

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Basics

LEARN

the basics

Master the essential crochet techniques you’ll need to see you through your next project

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

In association with the UK’s leading supplier of Tulip crochet hooks www.sew2go.co.uk

9 10

Holding the hook

11 12 13 14 1

2

15

PEN METHOD

KNIFE METHOD

There’s no right or wrong way to hold your hook, but many crocheters find it comfortable to hold it as they would a pen.

Others prefer the knife method, with the end of the hook resting against the palm of the hand for extra control of the hook.

16 17

Holding the yarn

Making a slipknot

18 19

1 The key is to ensure tension in the yarn.

This technique shows the tail held between index finger and thumb, and working end over the middle finger.

1 Holding the tail end firmly, wrap the working end of the ball of yarn around two fingers to make a loop.

20

2 Pull a loop from the working end of the ball of yarn up through the centre of the loop you’ve just made.

21 22 23 24

2 This technique shows the tail end held in between the thumb and middle finger and the working end wrapped around the index finger – see what works best for you!

3 Remove the loop from your fingers and you should have something that looks like this.

25

4 Pull the tail end of the yarn to close the slipknot – it’s now ready to be popped onto your crochet hook and pulled tight to close.

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1 2

Basics

3

In association with

the UK’s leading supplier of Tulip crochet hooks www.sew2go.co.uk

Chain stitch (ch)

4

1 This is what the start of any crochet project looks like – a slipknot on a hook.

5

2 To begin making your first chain, first wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh).

6 7 1

8

2

9

3 Pull the hook towards the first loop on the hook – always be sure to move the crochet hook and not the yarn to make your stitches – this will catch the yrh in the head of the hook.

4 Continue to move the hook until you pull through your yrh through the first loop on the hook – you’ve made your first chain stitch!

10 11 12 3

13 14

4

Working into a chain

15 16 17 18

1

19

Once you’ve made the required length of chain, you should be left with something looking like this. This is your foundation row, into which Row 1 is worked.

20 21

2 The starting chain instructions often include the turning chain in them already. This example shows a treble crochet, so the stitch is worked into the 4th chain from the hook to create the height needed for the first stitch.

3 This is what the first treble stitch into a chain looks like - you will then continue to make the next stitch in the next chain all along to the end to create your first row.

Turning chains

Working in rows

22 23 24 25

1 Once you reach the end of a row, it’s time to work back along the other way.

To do this you need to turn the work. This example shows a treble once again, so we’ve made a three chain turning chain.

26 27

2 Then simply turn the work before continuing to work the next row. This produces what is known as a right side (RS) and wrong side (WS) to the crochet fabric – something you’ll come to recognise in no time at all.

1 Different stitches have different size turning chains; double crochet is one chain (which is often not counted as a stitch); half treble is two chains; treble is three chains and double treble is four chains.

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Basics

2 3

Working in the round

1 To work in the round, first of all you need a centre ring, into which the first round of stitches are worked into. There are many ways to do this, but for this example, we are first making a chain of four stitches.

1

4 5 6

centre ring

2 Next, slip-stitch into the first chain you made to create a centre ring.

7

3 We are creating treble stitches again, so next up we make a chain of three for the turning chain.

1

2

8 9

4 The stitches are then worked directly into the centre ring – not into the actual chain stitches themselves as we did when working into a row. This allows us to work many more stitches into the ring, without leaving a large hole in the centre.

10 11 12 3

4

13 14

Magic ring

15 16 17

1 A magic ring is a key technique used in the making of toys (also known as amigurumi).

It allows you to have even greater control on the size of the hole at the centre ring of your project.

2 To start off, follow the first few steps for making a slip knot by making a loop around your fingers with the working end of the yarn.

18

3 Pull through a loop of the working end of the ball of yarn – place your hook into the new loop; however, this time don’t pull the tail to make a slipknot. Hold the centre ring in your fingers to stop it moving.

19 20 21 22 23 24

4 In this example, we’re double crocheting into the magic ring. To secure the magic ring, make one chain.

5 Then continue to work the number of required double crochet stitches directly into the magic ring, ensuring both the loop and the tail end are caught in the stitches.

25

6 Pull the tail end of the yarn and the magic ring will close up as tightly as it is able, depending on the number of stitches.

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1 2

Basics

In association with

the UK’s leading supplier of Tulip crochet hooks www.sew2go.co.uk

Double crochet (dc)

3 4 5 6

1

7

Insert your hook into the next stitch from front to back.

8

2 Wrap the yarn round the hook (yrh).

3 Pull up a loop through the stitch. You will now have two loops on the hook.

9 10 11 12 4

13

Yarn round the hook again.

14

5 Pull through both loops on hook.

You’ve made your first double crochet.

Double crochet is essential for amigurumi

15 16

Dc2tog

17 18 19 20

1 This stitch is a common decrease in double crochet. First up, work a double crochet stitch as far as Step 3. Then insert your hook into the next stitch, yrh and pull up a loop. You will have three loops on the hook.

21 22

2 Yarn round the hook again.

3 Pull through all three loops on the hook.

23

Dc increase

24 25 26 27

1

To increase the number of double crochet stitches, simply make more than one double crochet in the same stitch as shown in this example.

TV Keep an eye on www.crochetnow.co.uk for our new channel with step-by-step videos

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Basics Slip stitch

2 3

1 Slip stitches are used as joining stitches and in places where you need to move along a row or round without impacting the height of the row. Insert the hook into the next stitch.

4 5

2 Yarn round the hook, pull up a loop not only through the stitch, but also the first loop on the hook.

1

1

6 7

2

8

Half treble (htr)

1 First up, yarn round the hook.

9

2 Insert the hook into the next stitch, yrh and pull through one loop. There are three loops on the hook.

10 11

3 Yarn round the hook again.

1

2

12

4 Pull through all three loops. One half treble stitch made.

13

Htr2tog

14

1 Work as for half treble until Step 2.

3

4

15 16

2 Work steps 1 and 2 again in the next stitch. There are five loops on the hook.

17

3 Yrh and pull through all five loops.

Treble (tr)

18 19

4 Pull through all three loops. One half treble stitch made.

20 21

1

2

22

1 First up, yarn round the hook.

23

2 Insert the hook into the next stitch and pull up one loop. There are three loops on the hook.

24

3 Yarn round the hook and pull through two loops. There are two loops left on the hook.

3

4

25 26

4 Yarn round the hook again and pull through the remaining two loops. One treble crochet stitch made.

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1 2

Basics

the UK’s leading supplier of Tulip crochet hooks www.sew2go.co.uk

In association with

Tr2tog

3

1 Work as for a treble crochet stitch up to Step 3.

4

2 Yarn round the hook again, insert into the next stitch and pull up one loop.

There are four loops on the hook.

5 6 7

1

3 Yarn round the hook again and pull through two loops.

There are now three loops on the hook.

2

8

4 Yarn round the hook again and pull through the remaining three loops.

9 10 11 12

3

4

13

Changing colour

14 15 16 17

1

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2 Pull through both loops to complete the stitch and continue to work the next stitch in the next colour.

Crochet colourwork can make for some fantastic results. To change colour mid-row, first work the stitch until the penultimate step in colour 1. Yarn round the hook in the new colour.

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3 Once secured, you can either fasten off the old yarn, or keep it attached if you’ll be working it in again soon – this is called stranded colourwork.

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Measuring tension

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Tension squares are particularly important for projects where size does matter, so be sure to work up a square in pattern that’s slightly larger than 10cm2.

Grab your ruler and count your stitches.

Too many? Try a hook size up. Too few? Try a hook size down.

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Basics

STANDARD ABBREVIATIONS Get your head around these abbreviations that you’ll find regularly in Crochet Now patterns

alt alternate beg beginning BLO work in back loops only CC contrasting colour chain ch ch-sp chain space cont continue dc double crochet

US to UK crochet terms If you come across a ‘sc’ instruction, it’s likely to be written in US crochet terms.

Crochet Now is written entirely in UK terms, but here’s a guide on how to translate them.

dc2tog work two double crochet stitches together decrease dec dtr double treble crochet fdc foundation double crochet work in front loops only FLO foll following htr

sc hdc dc tr dtr

UK Double crochet dc Half treble htr Treble tr Double treble dtr Triple treble ttr

h alf treble crochet

htr2tog work two half treble crochet stitches together inc

i ncrease

LH

l eft hand

MC main colour patt pattern pm place marker prev previous pul pull up a loop rem remaining rep repeat RH right hand rm remove marker rnd round RS right side RtrF

US Single crochet Half double Double Treble Double treble

r aised treble front: Yrh, insert around post of indicated st from front to back around to front again, yrh, pul, [yrh, draw through two loops] twice

Crochet hook conversions UK In mm US 14 2mm 13 2.25mm B/1 12 2.5mm - 2.75mm C/2 11 3mm 10 3.25mm D/3 9 3.5mm E/4 - 3.75mm F/5 8 4mm G/6 7 4.5mm 7 6 5mm H/8 5 5.5mm I/9 4 6mm J/10 3 6.5mm K/10.5 2 7mm 0 8mm L/11 00 9mm M/13 000 10mm N/15

RtrB raised treble back: Yrh, insert around post of indicated st from back to front around to back again, yrh, pul, [yrh, draw through two loops] twice

www.crochetnow.co.uk | 95

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Editorial Editor Hugh Metcalf Editorial Assistants Felix McNulty, Jenny Riley Designer Simon Kay Technical Editors Amy Curtin, Charles Voth Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Alex Wright Junior Photographer Amy Worrall Hair & Make-up Nina Rochford Senior Covermount & Packaging Designer Kay Whittaker Covermount & Packaging Designer Vicky Welsby

Contributors Zoe Potrac, Liz Lovick, Rebecca Armstrong, Amanda Perkins, Annelies Baes, Tracey Todhunter, Lena Fedotova, Liz Ward, Jacinta Bowie, Jane Crowfoot, Ruth Maddock, Lynne Rowe, Jane Howorth, Louise Watling

Publishing & Advertising Senior Account Manager Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practicalpublishing.co.uk Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Production Assistant Anna Olejarz Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Senior Editor Kate Heppell Managing Art Editor Jennifer Lamb Head of Business Development Ruth Walker Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Head of Product Development Carol Jones Ecommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson

Subscription Enquiries Tel: 01858 438899 subscriptions@practicalpublishing.co.uk

Distribution Newstrade – COMAG Magazine Distribution Craft Store Distribution ruth.walker@practicalpublishing.co.uk

Inside the next issue of

THE perfect GIFT

We asked our designers to take inspiration from their own perfect gift to create a collection of beautiful projects and quick and easy makes you can have ready by Christmas Day!

Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961 Crochet Now is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd. All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Crochet Now is used under licence from Craft Media Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.

Crochet Now (ISSN 2047-4911) Published by Practical Publishing International Ltd Stock images provided by Shutterstock, Inc.

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Next issue Sweet ideas for the family

Inspiring designs on a budget

Quick makes

Festive patterns you’ll love

Never miss another issue! Subscribe today and receive your free 24-piece crochet hook set www.practicalsubs.com/1176 CN07 P96 Next Issue.indd 97

ON SALE

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THE YARN STASH DIARIES Each month, Lynne Rowe aims to inspire you to get creative with your yarn leftovers to save space, money and the world!

Lynne Rowe

www.thewoolnest.blogspot.co.uk

W

hen the evenings draw in and become a little cooler, I love nothing more than to grab my cosy, crocheted blanket and snuggle down in my favourite armchair with a captivating book. While I tend to squeeze most of my annual reading into our family holiday, I do like to have a good book on the go over the winter months.

Every month or so, I enjoy a leisurely mooch along the shelves at my local library to see what grabs my attention and my favourite shelves (aside from the craft shelf) are historical drama, crime thrillers and novels. Libraries are a fantastic resource and a great way to try out a new author or a new craft book for free (so long as you return them on time!)

Reading and crochet have a lot in common as studies have shown that both have similar health benefits. Both help to keep your brain stimulated and active and both help you to de-stress. A simple project with a repetitive stitch pattern is perfect because you don’t need to check the pattern too often or concentrate too much, whereas when you’re feeling energised you may want to work on something a little more challenging. Mini projects are also great for instant gratification, such as an amigurumi toy, a colourful mandala or even a bookmark that can be used with either your favourite novel or craft title.

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Scallop Bookmark 4-ply

3mm

★ Beginner friendly Yarn used oddments (8g) of 4-ply yarn

Hook used 3mm

Other supplies sewing needle thread seed beads

Sizing 17cm (excluding beaded loop)

Start crocheting Using chosen yarn and hook, chain 4.

Row 1: [10 tr, 3 ch, sl st] in 4th ch from hook. Turn. 1 Shell made Row 2: 3 ch, [10 tr, 3 ch, sl st] over the post of the last 3 ch from last Shell. Turn.

Rep Row 2 another 12 times (or until desired length is reached). Cut yarn and fasten off.

Thread small beads onto one tail end of yarn, fold it into a loop and secure the end of yarn to the WS of the bookmark. Weave the remaining tail end into WS and trim. If desired, spray the WS with spray starch to stiffen, pin flat and leave to dry completely before using. To thread the beads onto yarn, first thread a sewing needle with a short length of strong sewing thread and tie a small knot in the ends to create a loop.

Thread the yarn end through the loop for approximately 6cm. Now thread the beads onto the sewing needle, a few at a time, and push them down over the cotton and then onto the yarn.

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SIRDAR

Crochet with Sirdar for stockists telephone: 01924 371501

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