Classic Trader Sports Car Buying Guide

SportsCar

BUYING GUIDE 2022

50 most popular sports cars

From the 1950s to the 2000s Which to buy, what to check IN ASS O C I AT I O N WITH

MARKET VALUES

BEST UPGRADES

TOURS

INSURANCE TIPS

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COLLECTIONS The Petitjean Collection ‘Part II’ Sold for over €12.2M at Paris 2022

AUCTIONS 1994 Bugatti EB110 GT Sold for €1,805,000 at Paris 2022

UK +44 (0) 20 7851 7070

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THE WORLD’S LEADING EXPERTS IN BRINGING THE FINEST CARS TO MARKET

1958 Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Roadster Sold in 2022

Hanna Schönwald Designer & Car Enthusiast

Hanna Schönwald - the designer and artist who prefers to work on her classic cars herself. She only cares for her classic cars with polishes and waxes from Swissvax. swissvax.com Find your dealer.

EDITOR’S WELCOME

MANAGING DIRECTOR Geoff Love EDITORIAL DIRECTOR David Lillywhite ART DIRECTOR Peter Allen MANAGING EDITOR Sarah Bradley

DEPUTY EDITOR Nathan Chadwick ADVERTISING SALES Sue Farrow, Jayne Philips, Rob Schulp BUYING GUIDE WRITERS Jon Burgess, Craig Cheetham PHOTOGRAPHY Magic Car Pics, Richard Dredge, John Colley, Alfa Romeo, Ariel, Aston Martin, Audi, BMW, Caterham, Ferrari, Fiat, Honda, Jaguar, Lotus, Maserati, Mazda, Porsche, Smart, Suzuki, Toyota, Vauxhall PUBLISHED BY Hothouse Media Ltd, UK, on behalf of Classic Trader GmbH. info@hothousemedia.co.uk PRINTED BY Buxton Press

GOODWOOD/JAYSON FONG

ART EDITOR Debbie Nolan

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ELCOME TO THE 2022 CLASSIC TRADER Sports Car Buying Guide, produced in partnership with the cars for sale website Classic Trader and

classic car insurance specialist Footman James.

Whether you’re actively looking for a specific sports car, contemplating a purchase or simply enjoy reading about classics, you should find plenty of interest for you.

The Guide covers 50 popular models from the 1950s right through to the 2000s, from a few hundred pounds to tens of thousands.

Some, such as the Jaguar XK120, are true motoring icons; others are up-and-coming classics that represent amazing value for money – think Smart Roadster and early Mazda MX-5.

Each of the 50 guides covers model history, what’s good and

©Hothouse Media Ltd. All rights reserved.

All material in this publication, whether in whole or in part, may not be reproduced, transmitted or distributed in any form without the written permission of Hothouse Media Ltd. Hothouse Media Ltd. uses a layered privacy notice giving you brief details about how we would like to use your personal information. For full details, please visit www.magnetomagazine.com/privacy/ Great care has been taken throughout the magazine to be accurate, but the publisher cannot accept any responsibility for any errors or omissions that might occur. The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees or assurances, and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised in this edition.

Sports Car Buying Guide ISSN 2753-9850

bad about the sports car in question, which version to choose, what to look out for and how much to pay.

If you like this, we also still have a few copies of the Classic Trader Classic Car Buying Guide (www.magnetomagazine.com), covering saloons and GTs as well as sports cars. There are many more buying guides online at www.classic-trader.com/en/ magazine – along with thousands of classic sports cars for sale.

Happy hunting!

David Lillywhite, editor SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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Inside...

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WELCOME Introducing the Classic Trader Sports Car Buying Guide

CLASSIC CAR KEY TRENDS What’s happening in the collector world, by those who know

ABOUT CLASSIC TRADER Website that’s one of the UK’s major classic car sales hubs

TEN SENSIBLE UPGRADES How to improve everything from your car’s drive to its cabin

GREAT EVENTS FOR SPORTS CARS Five days out where your classic can become part of the show

BUILDING A GARAGE FOR YOUR CLASSIC Discover the perfect storage solution for you and your car

TOURING WITH YOUR SPORTS CAR How to plan and prepare for the ultimate holiday on the road

TOP TEN SPORTS CAR BUYS Where to look for the car of your dreams – and what to pay

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

CONTENTS

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDES 34 Alfa Romeo GTV 38 Alfa Romeo Spider 44 Ariel Atom 46 Aston Martin V8 Vantage 50 Audi TT Mk1 52 Austin-Healey 100 58 Austin-Healey 3000 62 BMW Z3 64 BMW Z4 and Z4 M 66 Caterham Seven 70 Datsun 240Z and 260Z 74 Ferrari 308 and 328 80 Ferrari F355 84 Ferrari 360 Modena 88 Ferrari F430 94 Fiat Barchetta

166 Porsche 911 996

96 Honda S2000

170 Porsche 911 997

100 Jaguar XK120/XK140/XK150

174 Porsche Boxster 986

106 Jaguar E-type six-cylinder

178 Porsche Boxster/Cayman 987

112 Lotus Elan

182 Smart Roadster

118 Lotus Elise

184 Sunbeam Alpine and Tiger

122 Mazda MX-5 NA and NB

188 Suzuki Cappuccino

126 Mercedes-Benz W113 Pagoda SL

190 Toyota MR2 Mk3

130 Mercedes-Benz SLK (R170)

192 Triumph TR2 and TR3

132 MGA

196 Triumph TR4, TR5 and TR6

136 MG Midget/Austin-Healey Sprite

200 Triumph Spitfire and GT6

140 MGB and MGB GT

204 Triumph Stag

146 MGF and TF

208 Triumph TR7 and TR8

150 Morgan 3 Wheeler

212 TVR Chimaera

152 Morgan Plus 4/Plus 8/V6 Roadster

216 TVR Griffith

156 Porsche 356

218 Vauxhall VX220

162 Porsche 911 (pre-1973)

222 Volkswagen Karmann Ghia

MAGIC CAR PICS, ARIEL, FRANCESCO AND ROBERTA RASTRELLI / BLUE PASSION PHOTO

92 Fiat/Bertone X1/9

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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CLASSIC CAR TRENDS

WHAT ’S HAPPENING IN THE CLASSIC CAR WORLD? A lot has changed on the collector scene in 12 months, so what does the future hold? And what’s hot and what’s not?

WORDS: NATHAN CHADWICK PHOTOS: ALAMY, STEVEN STRINGER, PORSCHE AG, HISTORICS AUCTIONEERS

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EWIND TO THE START OF the pandemic, and there were any number of prophets of doom regarding the classic car market. It actually turned out to be ‘profits of boom’, because multiple lockdowns, a flight to home working and the difficulties of international travel fuelled ever-growing prices.

Now that Covid is receding and the

world is opening up again, how will the market shift? We speak to four experts to reflect on the past 12 months, look into their crystal balls for the next year, and tell us what sports cars and roadsters they’d be putting their money into.

So where to begin with 12 months in which the repercussions of Brexit have mingled with Covid, and have been recently topped off with a geopolitical

WHAT’S HOT: UP TO £15,000

OUR MARKET EXPERTS

Lotus Elise S1 Tim Joslyn

Tim Joslyn Founder of online auction portal The Market by Bonhams.

Rupert Hunt Of West Londonbased classic car dealer Graeme Hunt.

Wayne Lamport Of Kentbased dealer Stone Cold Classics.

Mathew Priddy Head of business development at Historics Auctioneers.

‘12 months ago they were £10k, and now the last one has rolled off the production line, you can expect them to grow in value’ TVR Tasmin/350 Rupert Hunt “The wedge shape is coming into vogue, and as it’s glassfibre it doesn’t weigh anything and is very quick. Parts are readily available, too.”

Mercedes-Benz SLK AMG 32 Wayne Lamport “It’s rare, fast and great looking.”

MGB Mathew Priddy “At this level it’s all about enjoyment – an MGB makes 40mph feel like 100mph; it’s great for a Sunday outing.”

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CLASSIC CAR TRENDS

WHAT’S HOT: UP TO £30,000

Lotus Elan+2 Rupert Hunt “It’s a cute little sports car with really low production numbers; they are lovely to drive as well.”

The social life, events and adventures that go hand-in-hand with the classic car hobby remain a strong attraction for enthusiasts.

RenaultSport Clio V6 Tim Joslyn “Not many of them were made, and they are so different to a normal Clio – there won’t be another mid-engined V6.”

Porsche 911 996 Mathew Priddy “Buy the best you can, and thoroughly enjoy the whole weekend and beyond.”

Lotus Evora Wayne Lamport

‘They’re very rare; they have a real underground following and appeal to those who dare to be different’

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crisis? Perhaps surprisingly, the market has done well and classic events are booming.

“Despite the extenuating circumstances, the UK classic and collector car market has proved to be incredibly stable, and has performed extremely well across all categories,” reports Mathew Priddy, head of business development at Historics Auctioneers (www.historics.co.uk), which hosts five public UK auctions per year.

It’s a view that’s echoed by Rupert Hunt of West London-based classic dealer Graeme Hunt (www.graemehunt.com).

“The market has performed well postBrexit, particularly internationally,” he says. “National sales declined a little over the Christmas period, but it’s picking up again – from a year’s perspective, there’s nothing to complain about.”

However, there have been a certain amount of changes, as Tim Joslyn, founder of online auction portal The

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

Market by Bonhams (www.themarket. bonhams.com/en), points out. “I think things have tailed off a little – unless something’s very special, you’re not going to get the top prices,” he says. “People are being a bit more realistic about what they are buying, and sellers have had to adjust to that over the past year.”

Tim puts this down to lockdowns easing at the end of 2021. “At the beginning of ’21 sellers were fairly bullish – in lockdown people were spending money on cars they couldn’t spend elsewhere, such as on holidays, and they were content to fork out high prices,” he says. “At the end of 2021, lockdowns eased up and people wanted to be sociable and go on holiday, get out of the country; the market didn’t drop, but it certainly plateaued.”

Wayne Lamport of Kent-based dealer Stone Cold Classics (www.stonecold classics.com) found it was the cheaper

WHAT’S HOT: UP TO £60,000

WHAT’S HOT: UP TO £100,000

Audi UR-Quattro Wayne Lamport “Iconic looks, great sound and German engineering, too.”

Ferrari 575 Mathew Priddy “Take a look at collectable classics that have had a less-than-sparkling 2020–21.

575s are good value at present but they may be tough to find.”

end of the market that proved to be most buoyant. “It’s the £5k to £25k range where I’ve found there is enough disposable income to take a chance on a toy,” he says.

He believes the market’s resilience is being led by three things – nostalgia, lifestyle changes and a reassessment of life’s priorities post-Covid. “A lot of my customers know people their age or a little older who have succumbed to Covid,” he says. “That’s changed their perspective – instead of putting things off, they’ve realised that life is short and they want to enjoy the cars that are formed by nostalgia.”

That zest for life has led to a change in the reason to buy a car. “There’s been a significant uplift in both interest and the value of modern classic sports cars, particularly low-mileage examples,” says Mathew Priddy. “It’s clear to us that they are being bought for the driving experience, not purely as an investment, which was more the case in the recent past. This uplift goes hand in glove with younger buyers that we are welcoming to our auctions – people who appreciate what a modern classic can offer over the antiseptic character of so many contemporary cars. Frankly, we can only see this trend continuing.”

All of our experts agreed it is 1980s, 1990s and 2000s cars that are proving to be the most popular models on the market. “It’s whatever you had on your

Jaguar E-type/Mercedes-Benz Pagoda Mathew Priddy “There’s a real treasure chest to be found here – look for classics at auction that have been pampered with exceptional restoration money spent on them; many are bought for the joy of restoration, less so for ownership.”

Ferrari 550/575 Rupert Hunt “They’re lovely cars to use – the 550 is a bit softer than the 575, which is a bit pointier; for this figure you can keep some change for servicing.”

Ferrari 308/328 Tim Joslyn

‘These have dropped back, and I think they’ll go back up again – so they’re a good place to put some money at the moment’ Bentley T1/T2 Rupert Hunt “You’re not going to get anything better for up to £60k than you will with the £15k TVR or £30k Lotus, so I’d leave the sports car at home and get a Bentley.”

Ferrari Testarossa Tim Joslyn “They’re a good barometer of the market. If you think the market is suppressed now, if you buy a Testarossa they’ll no doubt grow again.”

Ford Sierra RS500 Cosworth Wayne Lamport

‘It all comes down to supply and demand, with 500 built. They have excellent racing heritage, too’

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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CLASSIC CAR TRENDS

WHAT’S HOT: £100,000-PLUS Jaguar XJ220 Tim Joslyn “They’ve still got somewhere to go. The XJ220 has done nothing like as well as its contemporaries, and if you’re paying £1m for an F40, there’s no reason why the Jaguar can’t be more than £500k.”

Ferrari 599GTB Wayne Lamport “It’s a glorious front-engined V12 – these models are too cheap, and it’s about time they made a comeback.”

Aston Martin DB4 Rupert Hunt “It’s the best-driving post-war Aston Martin for the money – and nothing beats the cachet of that.”

Porsche Carrera restomod Mathew Priddy “The onus should be on acquiring an asset you can enjoy – too many classics over £100k do not get the use they require, so make sure it’s something you love. My personal favourite of late was the 1986 Porsche Carrera restomod sold in the November sale – the restomod scene is becoming ever more popular; it’s the antithesis of the driverless car to come.”

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Whether modern classics or established collector models, Porsches remain perennial favourites.

wall when you were a kid, and at the point when you can afford it, you buy it,” explains Tim Joslyn.

Rupert Hunt echoes these thoughts. “I think as younger people get a bit more money, 1980s stuff is now coming to the fore,” he says. “They’re finding themselves with more disposable income – kids’ school fees are coming to the end of their tenure, for example – which means there’s more money for a car.”

The nature of the cars coveted has changed, too. This means that the Triumphs, MGs and Jaguars that were the mainstays of the UK classic scene are slowly falling out of favour. “Porsches always do well, especially the older ones because the numbers are so limited,” says Tim Joslyn. “1980s and 1990s BMWs are always popular, as are Volkswagens and 1970s and 1980s Mercedes-Benzes.”

German cars are also proving popular in Wayne Lamport’s part of the market.

“Mercedes-Benz SLK Mk1s, Audi TT Mk1s, Toyota MR2 Mk3s, BMW Z3s and early Porsche Boxsters are flying up in value,” he says. “If you’re working from home there’s no need for a daily diesel Mondeo.

When you’re glum, what better than to get a convertible out of the garage, don your shades, play some tunes and go out for a drive in a relatively cheap drop-top?”

It’s such inherent usability that will drive where the market is going over the next 12 months, according to Tim Joslyn. “2022 is about experiences, less

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

so objects,” he explains. “People want something that they can use and have experiences in – tours, driving to events, holidays, for example.”

Wayne Lamport agrees: “Almost all my customers say they want to use their cars to go to the beach on sunny days, or to the pub; there’s also a real desire for shows – people want to be among car people, admiring each other’s machines.”

He also sees a desire for more fuelefficient cars coming into play, even if the amount of fuel a classic actually uses each year is comparatively small. “Filling the tanks for £120 is quite a psychological barrier, however,” he adds. Rupert Hunt disagrees. “The cost of fuel isn’t an issue; most people with a classic have a modern car for day to day,” he says. “The change to higher-ethanol fuels is something to consider, but there are additives to help.”

There is plenty that bodes well for the hobby, as Mathew Priddy explains: “Hopefully as the year progresses, the shackles from pandemic concerns and on-going Brexit issues can be cast aside, which will bring further positivity,” he says, adding that he expects the affordable end of the market to remain very strong, with modern classics leading the way.

“We can anticipate the mid- to top end to really press on, with new records set for classics that appeal to the generation of newer buyers in their 40s and early 50s,” he says. “Think 1980s and 1990s supercars – they could well see significant growth.”

The largest classic car showrooms in central London

1939 Lagonda V12 Drop Head Coupe – Pebble Beach Winner.

1959 Aston Martin DB4 – 1 of 2 available.

1958 Ferrari 250GT – California Spyder Style.

1980 Aston Martin V8 Volante – Truly Immaculate condition.

1979 Bentley T2 – 39,000 miles from new.

1969 AC 428 Roadster – Fully restored.

www.graemehunt.com +44 (0)20 7937 8487 • mail@graemehunt.com

ABOUT CLASSIC TRADER

ABOUT CLASSIC TRADER It’s one of the UK’s biggest classic cars for sale websites, with an international presence operating across nine language editions. Try it!

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INCE CLASSIC TRADER WAS launched in Germany in 2013, it’s been one of the world’s fastestgrowing classic car sales websites, serving up around 14,000 classic and collector vehicles at any one time.

It was founded by Christian Plagemann and Torsten Claus, two classic enthusiasts who had been part of modern car websites in Germany before deciding to indulge their passions for older machinery. Their ambition was always to build an international market, and in that the team has succeeded – Classic Trader is now the world’s largest platform for cross-border trading, operating across nine language editions with cars for sale from over 30

countries. It reaches 1.1 million unique visitors every month, with more than seven million monthly page views.

The UK site accounts for around one third of that traffic, with typically 2.2 million page views a month. It’s big!

The website was designed to be extremely easy to both navigate and upload cars for sale to. For that reason it’s popular with specialist dealers and auction houses, as well as with private individuals who are looking to sell their classic and collector cars.

Big names using Classic Trader in the UK include Silverstone Auctions, Girardo & Co, Historics and many more, attracted to the platform for the quality of its

audience and the ease with which they can monitor the response to their adverts.

Here at Hothouse Media we work closely with Classic Trader to liaise with UK dealers and to create English-language articles for the ‘magazine’ section of the website, which you will find at www.classic-trader.com/en/magazine – so if you find the buying guides useful, you’ll discover additional ones online.

If you are a car dealer wanting to feature your cars on Classic Trader, then email jayne@classic-trader.com. And if the buying guides inspire you to search for cars for sale, you know which website to look on. Classic Trader can be found at www.classic-trader.com.

Classic Trader’s easy-to-navigate website makes it a firm favourite of private individuals, dealers and auction houses alike.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

Sold in 2010 £12,733

Sold in 2017 £136,640

1973 BMW 3.0 CSL

VALUES CHANGE. OURS HAVEN’T BUYING OR SELLING, TALK TO US FIRST The fine classic BMW 3.0 CSL pictured here sold at

sustained Historics as a premier UK classic car

our auction in 2010 for the princely sum of £12,733.

auction house, some 11,000 lots having passed

Seven years later, we sold another, but this time bidding soared to a sale price of £136,640.

Whilst the classic and collector car market has

across our auction block to date.

Whether first-time buyer or an established collector, we promise you an award-winning service,

witnessed astonishing changes in values, ours have

exceptional value and an enviably high, sustained

stayed precisely the same as they were when we

rate of sale for vendors.

first opened our auction doors.

So when it comes to buying or selling your classic

Professionalism, honesty, expert knowledge and experience are the values that have established and

car, or simply receiving a free valuation, contact us today. It’s the experience you won’t want to miss.

2022 AUCTION CALENDAR ASCOT RACECOURSE 21st May

WINDSORVIEW LAKES 16th July

BICESTER HERITAGE 24th September

MERCEDES-BENZ WORLD 26th November

Please visit the website to consign a car, for bidder registration, for entries to our forthcoming sale and for a free valuation.

01753 639170 auctions@historics.co.uk www.historics.co.uk

More than just insurance Insurance is insurance, right? Not when you own a classic – and a Footman James policy offers much more than basic cover 16

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

From classic cars to collectable motorcycles, and everything in between, the Footman James Coffee & Chrome meets prove the perfect social event for vehicle enthusiasts.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

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XACTLY WHAT IS IT THAT makes Footman James different from other insurers, you might ask? “Community!” will be the response from anyone at the company.

“It’s what you get when you’re in this classic vehicle bubble,” says Charlotte Moseley, head of marketing at Footman James. “It’s all about the meets, the friendships, the stories, the connections.

And it’s about our desire to attract younger drivers and younger classics.”

Footman James is one of the UK’s best-known insurers of classic cars and motorcycles, and it prides itself on being one of the friendliest and most adaptable, too. Since it was formed back in 1983 it has been a core part of the classic scene, with stands at most major events, from restoration shows to top-end concours.

In recent years it has taken that involvement even further, to run its own Coffee & Chrome meets at venues around the UK. These are enjoyable, informal get-togethers that are not only free to attend, but also even include two free breakfast butties per vehicle.

Coffee & Chrome meets were devised to be a family-friendly opportunity to meet other owners, admire their motors and chat with friends. From classic cars and bikes to scooters, camper vans, modified and modern classics, supercars, military vehicles, trucks, kit cars and more, everything is welcome. Visitors are encouraged to bring pets along as well,

and there are water stations and treats for dogs at every meet.

Footman James supplements Coffee & Chrome with its regular Ignite magazine; available in print and digital formats to all enthusiasts, it incorporates event reports, interesting articles and useful information.

In between editions, further articles are posted online within the Footman James Classic Hub, covering current topics such as biofuels and the future of classics, as well as features on collections and particular marques, models and genres.

Once again, the emphasis is on inclusion and enjoyment of the classic scene.

All that is dependent on who can actually be insured, of course – and this is where Footman James really excels, enabling young drivers and virtually any vehicle to get the right cover.Through an arrangement with the Morris Minor Owners Club, drivers of just 17 years of age can be insured on a Minor, while the limit for drivers of other models is a still-low 21 years of age.

Being a member of a car club facilitates this, but Footman James recognises that there are now other enthusiasts’ organisations, and so it is working with forums and social media groups to offer similar advantages.

Similarly, the range of insurable vehicles is wide because Footman James will consider anything that is being treated as a classic, even a modern car. That means occasional use and limited mileage, with another vehicle as the main transport.

There are also options to tailor policies,

‘Footman James enables drivers as young as 17 years of age, and virtually any vehicle, to get the right insurance cover’ to allow the addition of, say, track days, European motoring, commuting, spare-parts cover, driving other classics, wedding hire, non-standard audio, lost keys, nil-deduction salvage retention (to allow you to keep your vehicle if it’s written off), RAC breakdown, legal protection and, of course, agreed value, a staple of classic-vehicle insurance.

Perhaps the biggest surprise to anyone new to classic insurance, and to Footman James, is the price of cover… The average premium from the specialist is just £159.36 a year for a single-vehicle classic policy – which includes everything from a Morris Minor to a Porsche – and limited mileages can be split across several vehicles with a multi-vehicle policy.

If you want to get more information, call Footman James on 0330 162 6873 or visit www.footmanjames.co.uk.

CLASSIC CAR MODIFICATIONS

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SENSI BLE UPGRADES Whether it’s improving the drive, modernising the cabin or splashing out on smart accessories, there is plenty you can do to sympathetically upgrade your classic WORDS: NATHAN CHADWICK

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F YOU ARE NEW TO THE world of classic cars, the culture shock of life with an old vehicle could sour the relationship with your much-anticipated pride and joy.

There is a way forward, however – modification. For a long time it was a dirty

word among some in the classic car scene, but sensible upgrades can do much to not only improve the ownership and driving experience, but also to help the longevity of your classic. Here are ten relatively simple ways to modify your classic without sacrificing its essential character.

Eagle’s E-types lift modification and re-engineering to a new standard. However, you can upgrade your car – perhaps not to the same level as Eagle – and still maintain its original classic feeling.

1. IT’S ALL IN THE DETAIL Detailing is far more than simply cleaning a vehicle – it’s almost its own hobby, away from the classic car scene. Happily, there are different levels. You can start out with simple kits from the likes of Meguiar’s, Auto Finesse, Autoglym and more.

However, you can take it further with more focused products by Gtechniq, and more extensive kit and machinery.

If this all seems a little too much like manual labour, there are several mobilevaleting companies that specialise in classic and prestige cars, such as Richard Tipper at Perfection Valet. After that experience, you will never again think of getting out the mop and sponge.

2. SOUNDS GOOD Upgrading a car’s audio kit is tricky to get right – how many times have you seen a head unit that’s visually out of sync in a classic? Fortunately firms such as Classic Car Stereo and Blaupunkt offer solutions that are aesthetically more accurate to a car’s age yet still have DAB, Bluetooth,

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USB and Android Auto or Apple CarPlay.

Manufacturers such as Porsche and Jaguar have also got in on the act, with upgraded units that even have satellite navigation for cars dating from when the space race had barely started.

3. SITTING COMFORTABLY? A poor-looking interior can really spoil an otherwise handsome car, but help is at hand. There are several kits for bringing the lustre back to leather and restoring the vivacity of velour – but replacement seats are available from the likes of Auto Style, Cobra, OMP and Recaro that are styled in a classic-friendly manner yet are much more comfortable and hard wearing.

However, if it’s all too far gone, firms such as Aldridge, GB Classic Trim and more can not only restore your trim back to its best, but also create brand-new schemes. While you’re dealing with cabin aesthetics, it’s worth checking or enhancing interior safety. Specialists such as Quickfit Safety Belt Service repair and upgrade seatbelts for a range of classics.

4. RUBBER UP Choosing the kind of driving experience you desire from your classic is paramount.

If you want something that will grip and steer in a more modern way, or drive in a similar mode to when it was new on the original-style tyres, consult an expert in classics rather than a general wholesaler.

Companies such as Vintage Tyres and Longstone will guide you to the right rubber, while Michelin, Dunlop, Avon, Vredestein and more are providing evermore options for older models.

5. BEAUTIFUL BAGGAGE You might consider fitted luggage to be something of a luxury. And sure, there are other items here that are probably higher on the list – but properly fitted bags will allow you to get the most space out of old sports cars’ often-cramped storage areas.

If you’re doing a spot of touring with the luggage mounted on the rear or roof, firms such as Classic Travelling Luggage can assist with specially made items that are more resistant to weather and knocks.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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6. SUSPEND DISBELIEF Even a modern classic built well past the millennium can be starting to show signs of suspension wear, so a car made decades before that will most certainly need a refresh. Technological improvements, years of learned know-how and a change in tastes mean a good kit can bring a classic’s chassis to life without sacrificing ride quality or the original aesthetic.

With adjustable suspension, you could have different settings for road and track.

Brands such as Koni, Eibach, Spax and KW Suspensions offer a variety of kits.

7. ALL ABOUT THE PAPER Okay, so this one’s more of an upgrade for the car’s documents. With provenance, service history and owner details playing an ever-bigger role in value, it’s worth

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investing in how the paperwork is stored.

Hartnack & Company is just one brand that offers classy storage solutions. After all, first impressions count, and a folder of scrappy paper isn’t a great selling point.

8. STOP THAT Braking tech has much improved – and now those benefits are being passed onto classic cars. Brembo, EBC Brakes, Tarox and others offer a range of pads, discs, calipers and kits for everything from an Alfa Spider to a Porsche 356. With modern models’ braking performance improving, boosting your classic would be wise.

9. TAKE COVER Now it’s time to tackle the panels. Cars as young as ten years old can start to corrode, so whatever the age, protection is worth

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

considering. Companies such as Corotec, Bilt Hamber and Rustbuster can either provide the DIY kit, or do the job for you.

The topside deserves just as much care as the underside, because damaged paint could mean a costly respray. A fitted cover from the likes of Classic Additions will keep the car less dusty in the short term, and protect the finish over the long term.

10. HOOD LIFE Even if a convertible’s hood is structurally intact, the ravages of outside life – be it tree sap or bird lime – can really detract from a convertible’s aesthetics.

Numerous firms offer touch-up kits, but a replacement top might be the way to go. We’ve seen several examples where an aftermarket hood actually works better than an original manufacturer’s offering…

PHOTOS: EAGLE E-TYPES/DEAN SMITH, VREDESTEIN, JAGUAR, RECARO, AUTOGLYM, ASTON MARTIN, HARTNACK & COMPANY, CLASSIC ADDITIONS, MAZDA, BREMBO, ALFA ROMEO

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Manufacturer and supplier of Quality Parts, Accessories and Licensed Merchandise for British Classic Cars MIRRORS | WIPERS | WASHER SPARES | UNIVERSAL RUBBER SEALS | BADGES & BADGE BARS | CIGARETTE LIGHTERS | FUEL CAPS | BRAKE DISCS | BRAKE PADS | BRAKE SHOES

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www.texautomotive.com

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Food for thought For nearly 60 years London-based Hexagon has sold some of the finest classic automobiles. Now the business is expanding with a new restaurant, The Engine Rooms; we speak to founder Paul Michaels about what’s driving his latest venture

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HE FIRST WORD PAUL Michaels ever said was “car”: “So everyone knew where I was going to end up,” remembers the founder of London-based specialist Hexagon Classics. “In 1963 my father told me to rent a garage, so I started with a mews in Hampstead for £7 a month. What started as one lock-up ended up being four, and it was pretty clear I needed bigger premises.”

Paul bought a former petrol station in North Hill in Highgate, which would be home until 1996. “We had various franchises, but in the early 1980s BMW wanted single-marque outlets only; we stayed with the brand until 2014, at which point I decided to sell classics only.”

However, although Hexagon’s become a byword for automotive excellence, from Porsches and BMWs to Ferraris and Aston Martins, Paul had another passion: “I’ve always been a foodie, and in 2016 my late wife and I decided it would be lovely to convert half the showroom into a restaurant,” he says.

Paul is certainly no newcomer to the food trade, having run a restaurant between 1983 and 1986. “My wife and I used to do European tours and rallies, and seeing the world with fellow enthusiasts made me aware of how much people love 22

to use their car when they can bring it somewhere to enjoy great food.”

That’s the driving force behind The Engine Rooms in Highgate. “I describe it as Goodwood in the centre of town – great food, great cars and in a lovely position,” Paul says. “There are inside and outside eating spaces, plus an events area.

I really want to encourage car clubs to come along, because there are 40 parking spaces outside. We’re offering something unique in London.”

He describes the menu as the future of food, explaining: “Tomorrow’s restaurants are going to be all about sustainability. It’s all free range from local suppliers, with line-caught fish and no beef – beautiful Mediterranean-inspired food that won’t

‘The Engine Rooms at Hexagon is the perfect place for some automotiveinspired fine dining – whether you arrive by car or on foot’

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

cost a fortune.” As such, the menu blends firm favourites from the region with new and exciting creations, resulting in a unique London taste experience. All ingredients are responsibly sourced from sustainable farms and growers, while the wines come from independent vineyards.

Located between 82 and 92 Great North Road in North London, and just moments from the East Finchley tube station, The Engine Rooms is the perfect place for some automotive-inspired fine dining – whether you arrive by car or on foot.

Asked about his favourite car, road and food combination, Paul is unequivocal.

“It has to be a Ferrari Daytona – they’re crazily undervalued, and when they were new they were head and shoulders above any car. With modern electric power steering they’re perfect,” he says. “I’d love to drive it around Provence, as there are so many wonderful roads and restaurants.

Go for a drive in the Daytona, spend three hours over lunch and then drive back to the hotel; I can’t think of anything better.”

While The Engine Rooms can’t promise everyone the Daytona experience, the venue certainly offers a taste of the exotic in North London. You can discover the menu at www.theenginerooms.co.uk and find out more about Hexagon at www.hexagonclassics.com.

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Ahead of the market with The Market What started as an online portal for car histories has grown into a major international auction powerhouse PHOTOS: THE MARKET

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T ALL STARTED WITH AN online platform to digitally track the history of classic cars, and has morphed into one of the most successful specialist auction companies, with an ever-growing global reach. The Market has taken the sales world by storm – and following its acquisition by Bonhams, the most prestigious name in the business, it is on course for further growth.

Despite this success, the key part of The Market’s appeal remains intact, as founder Tim Joslyn explains: “We have a massive focus on customer service – you can see who you are talking to on the website, and put faces to names.”

While sellers can provide their own pictures, The Market has a nationwide network of professional photographers and journalists to present their vehicle in the best light. And although the car can remain at the seller’s home, as with a traditional online auction service, The Market also offers a complete ‘turnkey’ concierge experience in which it is 24

picked up and stored at The Market’s HQ. “Once in situ, it is prepped and detailed, and prospective buyers can come and view it there rather than come to your home,” says Tim. “Once the auction has run and the money is in the seller’s account, the car is delivered to its new owner.”

The partnership with Bonhams has opened up an entirely new realm for The Market. “Not only do we now have access to a wider, international client base, but there’s a broader range of specialists to draw upon,” explains Tim. Outward expansion has taken The Market’s brand around the globe – including, crucially, the US – bringing new buyers and sellers into the mix. However, this is just the start. “We’re actively looking at incorporating more from car culture and the wider Bonhams group into our sales portal – such as automobilia, posters and watches,” says Tim. With superb customer feedback, growing worldwide reach and great results, it seems the best way to get your car to market is via... The Market.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

This Ferrari Mondial (above) sold twice via The Market, and is coveted by founder Tim Joslyn (below).

He sees this blue F40 (bottom) as a highlight of The Market’s journey so far.

OUT AND ABOUT

Destination fun 2022 is all about getting out there with your classics – so we’ve put together five events where your car can become part of the show BICESTER SCRAMBLE April 23-24, June 19 (more TBC). Bicester Heritage, Bicester, Oxon Pre-1990 cars can become part of the show, set on this former RAF technical site. The historical buildings host some of the most fascinating aspects of the UK classic car scene, from motor sport workshops to storage areas, dealers and restoration centres.

Non-pre-1990 cars are also welcome, and often congregate in the car park, while an autojumble means there’s a chance to find some rare bits. www.bicesterheritage.co.uk

BROOKLANDS ITALIAN CAR DAY April 30, Brooklands Museum, Weybridge, Surrey From tiny Fiats to fabulous Ferraris, and everything in between, there’s something for everyone at this legendary site. Aside from the opportunity to take a trip around the historic Brooklands banking and fascinating museum, there’s also a chance to take on the famous 1909 test hill, with abundant encouragement from crowds of like-minded enthusiasts. www.brooklandsmuseum.com

SILVERSTONE CLASSIC (NOW THE CLASSIC) August 26-28, Silverstone Circuit, Northamptonshire

EDD HARTLEY

The home of the British Grand Prix hosts international-class historic motor sport for these three days, but even if your interest is more in road cars there’s plenty to enjoy. Over 100 clubs bring along 10,000 classics, which means your car can line up on the infield.

If it’s an anniversary year, you might even get to drive around the circuit. There’s plenty of shopping, music and auctions to enjoy, too. www.silverstoneclassic.com

SALON PRIVÉ August 31-September 4, Blenheim Palace, Woodstock, Oxon Blenheim plays host to one of the UK’s most luxurious automotive garden parties during the week, as priceless classics rub shoulders with the latest and greatest hypercars. At the weekend the grounds come alive to the sounds of rally cars, great displays and much more. Apply for VIP parking and your classic can become one of the stars on the avenue up to the palace itself. www.salonpriveconcours.com

GOODWOOD REVIVAL September 16-18, Goodwood, West Sussex

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

NICK DUNGAN

If you like dressing up as much as you like classics, this is for you. Some of the world’s most storied cars do battle on track as if the past 50 years haven’t happened, while the entire site celebrates the 1940s-60s. One of the best bits is the Revival Car Show, where pre-1966 and tax-exempt models are welcome. You’ll see every classic you can think of. Parking is free via a pass booked in advance. www.goodwood.com

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HOW TO BUILD THE

GARAGE YOUR CLASSIC DESERVES Free standing or an extension, steel or wood, there’s a storage solution for you and your car PHOTOS: ALAMY, MASERATI

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HEN IT COMES TO looking after your classic car, a purposebuilt garage is one of the most effective ways to ensure that it remains in pristine condition.

Aside from shielding your pride and joy from the elements, it provides an added

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

layer of protection from thieves and is a pleasant, warm place from which to work on your car. Depending on available space and budget, a modern garage offers incredible scope for your vision. However, achieving the best result is not always simple, so here are our tips for getting exactly what your car deserves.

PLANNING AHEAD

BRICKS AND MORTAR

“Planning permission is the biggest hurdle,” explains Dave Handley of Julius Bahn (www.juliusbahn.co.uk). “Many of the problems are due to second-guessing planners, although a lot of it comes down to precedent – if you live in a row of houses with no garages out front, it’s unlikely you’ll get permission for a garage in that position, but if you have larger grounds, it could be fine.”

Dave advises designing a building so it conforms to Permitted Development.

“There are 12 criteria for this, but the three key ones are: must be behind the front line of the house; can’t be more than four metres high; and must be at least two metres from the boundary,” he says. “The great thing about Permitted Development is that it takes the opinion away from a planner – it’s either yes or no.”

Choosing the bricks-and-mortar route will take the longest time and potentially cost the most, especially if the garage will be free standing, because you’ll have to get electricity cables and possibly water lines piped in. You’ll also need to take into account the concrete foundation, external walls, garage doors, and a roof structure with guttering and adequate drainage.

The thickness of the garage wall will dictate the insulation level you’ll get. And on the subject of chilly locales, if snowfall is common where you live, getting the roof’s pitch correct is critical.

On the flip side, make sure there is adequate ventilation to prevent the air from becoming too humid, as this can play havoc with leather interiors. Don’t overlook condensation, either – proper ventilation and a dehumidifier can make

Free-standing garages can allow for offices or living quarters in the roof, but adding an infrastructure for mains utilities needs careful consideration.

‘Depending on available space and budget, a modern garage offers incredible scope for your vision’

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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BUILDING A GARAGE

a big difference to ageing bodywork, while building from wood instead of steel or concrete can also help mitigate this issue.

If your garage is made from concrete, there are a number of quality waterproofing coatings for both the walls and the floors that are well worth investing in.

The big thing to remember – which is often forgotten about, according to the professionals we spoke to – is that frequently not enough room is left around the car. Sometimes, homeowners don’t even think about the space needed to open a door fully, let alone have a place for all their spare parts and tools. Adding more space to your garage build may cost a little extra, but respraying your car after you’ve taken chunks out of it on the walls will cost more in the long run.

Angling the base slightly towards the garage door will make it easier to hose

out the floor, although if you end up doing this make sure to leave the car in gear or fit chocks for the wheels. Otherwise you’re likely to end up with an unfortunate and very expensive car-shaped impression in the garage door...

Several firms offer prefabricated pits that include lighting, built-in sumps, jacking rails and anti-slip steps. If your budget allows, rotating pedestals, tiled floors and air-con units can make for a very luxurious way to cosset your pride and joy.

SCORES ON THE DOORS An electric garage door not only looks great, but it also saves on back bending and fumbling around in poor weather conditions. Aluminium or steel doors require less maintenance than wooden ones, but these can dent easily. Vertically rolling doors allow for a car to be parked

closer to the garage when it is outside.

Building an integrated extension to your house is not automatically an easier option. It will require the same amount of commitment as if you were adding an additional room to your house – but using the existing wall and foundation may lower overall costs.

WOODEN BUILDINGS Wooden or wooden-framed garages are highly popular. “Oak garages add more value than a traditional brick building, and because they’re more aesthetically pleasing they have more kerb appeal,” says Dave. “The construction time is far less and the material is from a renewable source.”

He also points out that oak-framed buildings last for centuries, so a garage should be good for more than 100 years.

A solid foundation is still necessary, and there are various sizes available, from single- to five-car slots. Some specialists offer the option to construct the building yourself, which can save up to 20 percent on the final costs.

Carports are popular for keeping the worst of the elements off the car but without the irritation of opening a door every day. However, if you change your mind and want more protection, some firms can offer the doors or more side panels later; this can be a good way to spread building costs.

And finally... remember safety. It seems obvious, but it’s often forgotten; fireretardant materials in the walls and a fire-extinguisher system are essential. Of course, a pool table and high-end hi-fi are indispensable, too. At least, that’s what we’re telling ourselves...

Roller doors can help to save space outside the garage, as well as avoid back pain.

An extension rather than a stand-alone garage can often save costs – but not by much.

SAME ROAD, DIFFERENT JOURNEY

ONE CLASSIC ADVENTURE

Each June for most of the last twenty years, the magical landscape of North Wales has set the stage for the Three Castles Trial. A classic car rally organised by active competitors that mixes serious competition with a sense of fun, a social programme and the convenience of one base for the full three days and five hundred miles of rallying. A blend of tests and regularities created to challenge, excite and entertain.

Open to cars of types first built between 1925 and 1975, the range is always eclectic but a friendly atmosphere is assured. An ideal first classic rally, it remains a daunting contest for expert crews with their sights set on winning.

From vintage leviathans to modest, nimble hatchbacks, competitors cover the same distance, share lunch halts and evening meals, so that everyone can enjoy the social side with friends, whatever they are driving. Adjusted tests and times for older cars coupled with built in mechancial assistance make it a caring package for your car too.

Whether just starting your classic adventure or steeped in the old car habit for years, the Three Castles Trial should probably be on your list of things to see, do and enjoy.

MAGICAL NORTH WALES, LAND OF MEDIEVAL CASTLES, MOUNTAINS AND MYTH. CHALLENGE, ADVENTURE, CLASSIC CAMARADERIE AND OUTSTANDING SUPPORT.

To request information visit www.three-castles.co.uk or call 020 8878 2003

BON VOYAGE!

TOURING WITH YOUR SPORTS CAR

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ROARING SPORTS CAR engine, beautiful scenery, miles and miles of adventure – despite some naysayers bemoaning modern traffic and speed regulations, driving a sports car across Europe is still a petrol-head’s delight.

However, classic cars are by their very nature old, and careful consideration and planning need to be put in place before you even think of packing the Factor 50. We spoke to Guy Woodcock of overseas tour and rally operator HEROERA (www.hero-era.com) to find out how to make continental journeys a delight rather than a disaster.

The romance of taking your classic sports car on a continental tour is a potent allure – but it requires planning and preparation to avoid the holiday from hell. Here’s how…

WORDS: NATHAN CHADWICK PHOTOS: FRANCESCO AND ROBERTA RASTRELLI/ BLUE PASSION PHOTO

GET YOUR CAR FIGHTING FIT

From demanding mountain roads to meandering coastal routes, continental touring offers something for everyone.

It seems like a basic requirement, but the first thing to do is to ensure your car is in a fit and healthy condition. Guy says: “You’ll be amazed at the amount of people who turn up at our events saying things such as ‘I thought it needed some brake pads, but I wasn’t sure’... And sure enough, after 50 miles their brakes have run out. For long distances, make sure you have a spare set of pads, shoes, fanbelts and so on.”

Consider what might go wrong, and prepare accordingly: “If you’re going to a particularly warm country, make sure the radiator is up to the job and that the water pump is in good order.”

You’ll also need to have an emergency pack. This varies from country to country so it’s worth checking before you leave, but all-in-one kits are available that will cover everything from spare bulbs to warning triangles. If driving in winter, be aware that certain parts of France require you to have snow chains in the car.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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‘It seems like a basic requirement, but the first thing to do is to ensure your car is in a fit and healthy condition’ On-the-road repairs are part of classic touring, so make sure you’re prepared and carry a stock of essential spares.

INSURANCE COVER

TAKING ITS TOLL

If you’re going on a tour that doesn’t involve any form of competition, your standard road insurance will cover you.

However, Guy suggests it’s worth going to a classic specialist: “They understand the value of the car – and the issues you can have with recovery and breakdown – that a more general insurer might not.”

It’s imperative to get an agreed value on your classic vehicle, because some nonclassic insurers might not cover bringing a damaged car of a low perceived value back to the UK. That would leave you to get home via public transport – and your classic may be sent to the scrapheap.

Road charging is prevalent on the continent, but chances are it’s not as prohibitively expensive as you might imagine. “Buy a Tag (www.emovis-tag. co.uk) – it allows you to pass through tolls by scanning a sticker on the screen, which saves messing around with cards and money – particularly if you’re in a righthand-drive car,” advises Guy. A month’s worth of continental travel will cost you a mere £20, and you will need a separate tag for France, Spain and Portugal. Meanwhile, Switzerland requires its own Vignette – you can read more about that at www.vignetteshop. co.uk – and beware, the fine for not having it is significant.

GET ALL OF YOUR DOCUMENTS IN ORDER Again, this sounds like a basic requirement but it’s something that’s often forgotten.

In addition to your V5 and insurance documents, Guy advises bringing along a ‘Green Card’. “Insurers say you don’t need it, but overseas everyone knows what the Green Card means,” he says. He advises giving your insurance company a good month to come up with the goods.

An International Driving Permit is worth having, and will cost around £5 from the Post Office. However, there’s a separate one for Spain and Portugal.

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GENERAL TIPS “When in France, the presence of a speedcamera sign means there definitely is a camera; there’s no ambiguity like the UK,” warns Guy. “In Germany, there’s no ‘ten percent argument’ like there is over here – if you do 41kp/h in a 40 zone, you get a ticket. Spain has very few fixed cameras.”

A lot of what Guy says is common sense as well. “There are things like always having your passport handy – but the main thing is to remember you’re a guest in someone else’s country,” he advises.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

THE NEXT STAGE Fancy adding a bit of spice to your overseas sorties? HERO-ERA offers a competitive element to continental touring. If you have a pre-1991 vehicle, you can take part in Regularity tests, where you and a navigator compete to achieve the closest to a set time – not the fastest. “It’s all about accuracy – the right speed at the right junction at the right time,” says Guy. “We have different difficulty standards, a bit like ski runs; good navigators will be within one or two seconds of the set time.”

The fundamental equipment you’ll need is a trip meter and clock, which HEROERA can advise on, although serious competition on rougher roads will need more kit. HERO-ERA also runs training seminars on how to compete.

“The whole sport is about teamwork, and mental arithmetic,” Guy says. It’s all about fun, with fathers and sons, and wives and husbands, taking part: “I don’t think we’ve been the cause of any divorces.”

More details on Regularity rallies can be found at www.hero-era.com.

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BUYING GUIDE

1994–2006

Alfa Romeo GTV

Don’t let front-wheel drive put you off – whether fourcylinder or V6, Alfa’s wedgy wonder has much to offer

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HE ALFA ROMEO GTV 916 was a sensation when it was launched, thanks to sizzling good looks and a front-wheeldrive layout that confounded critics with its crisp handling and engaging engines.

Officially revealed in 1994 for a 1995 launch, it was offered in different guises dependant on market. Britain received a 148bhp 2.0-litre Twin Spark four-cylinder, while other engines were made available overseas. A 1997 facelift saw new wheel and trim options, and the introduction of a 3.0 V6 Busso in 24v form offering 217bhp and 0-60mph in a shade under seven seconds. The range was improved again a year later, with a power raise to 153bhp for the Twin Spark, along with a

new plastic cam cover. Inside, the trim was upgraded again, while the exterior received colour-coded side skirts and bumpers, plus a new grille. A six-speed ’box became an option on the 3.0 engine.

In 2000, new emissions regulations saw the engines slightly detuned, and the sixspeed gearbox became standard on the V6. Production halted at Alfa Romeo’s own plant, but Pininfarina took over.

The cars would receive their last facelift in 2003, with Pininfarina reprofiling the nose. The Twin Spark engines were replaced with JTS motors, which had a bit more power but a little less character, while the V6 offering was the same 3.2litre 240bhp unit as found in the 156 and 147 GTAs. Production ceased in 2004, but

MAGIC CAR PICS

cars were still being sold as late as 2006.

The special-edition Cup model has become highly prized and can command values twice that of a normal GTV. The Cup was created to celebrate Alfa Romeo’s one-make GTV Cup racing series. The 155 UK-spec car was available only with the 3.0-litre V6, and all examples were red; it featured bespoke seats and bodykit.

Jamie Porter of The Alfa Workshop (www.alfaworkshop.co.uk) is unequivocal about the 916 GTV’s appeal: “It has to be the car’s stunning looks,” he says.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

Most of the cabin is hard wearing, although electrical gremlins can sometimes rear their heads.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

The four-cylinder Twin Spark engines can be hardy, as long as the oil is checked and topped up every 1000 miles. However,

‘Alfa GTV’s frontwheel-drive layout confounded critics with its crisp handling and engaging engines’

the cambelt history is far more important.

“Whether Twin Spark or V6, ensure the cambelt has been done,” Jamie says. With regards to the former model, Alfa initially said oil changes should happen every 72k miles, but this was soon revised down to 36k miles and every three years. Make sure there’s a history of this, or at least budget to have it done on purchase. The engine bay is tight, so it’s a labour-intensive job.

While the ’belt is off, it is wise to replace the camshaft variator if it’s rattling.

You should expect the engine to pull linearly through to the red line, so any flat spots indicate that the mass airflow sensor may need to be replaced. Twin Sparks have double the amount of plugs to change, too.

The Busso V6 is very robust and hardly

uses any oil. Its cambelt lasts a little longer as well, at 76k miles or five years. Again it is a labour-intensive job, so budget £1000 to have it done. Oil-cooler pipes are known to corrode, but as they’re no longer available new, secondhand or customfabricated items are the way to go.

Gearboxes are tough and stand up to abuse well, especially in the less torquey four-cylinder models. A reluctance to slot into fifth ratio can sometimes be down to a loose nut that requires tightening.

If there is too much resistance or notchiness when changing, it may be worth getting a specialist to do a transmission inspection. A high clutch biting point indicates it’s not long for this world.

Many V6 GTVs have been fitted with

a Q2 or Quaife limited-slip differential, which improves the car’s handling.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The lower front wishbone can exhibit play at either end, manifested by excessive wear on the tyres’ inner edges. All GTVs tend to wear here, even with perfectly set up suspension, but it’s a relatively cheap fix.

The rear suspension has a couple of weak spots, which differ with engine spec.

The Twin Spark bushes are made from rubber with a steel insert, which can wear into the aluminium subframe. Meanwhile, the 3.0-litre’s bushes are spherical joints, rather than rubber bushes, so the subframe is undamaged. However, they are known to squeak, which means you will have to

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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MODEL HISTORY 1995: 916 Series GTV Coupé and Spider launched with 148bhp 2.0-litre four for UK plus 197bhp 2.0 V6 turbo and 189bhp 3.0 12v V6 options for Europe. All are frontwheel drive with five-speed manual ’box 1996: Lusso (luxury) specification adds climate control, leather interior and power soft-top on Spider models 1997: 24v head introduced on 3.0-litre models, increasing output to 217bhp

replace the spring pan arm. You’ll often find GTVs on aftermarket suspension, but this isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The V6 was hardly a smooth-riding model, and a quality set-up from the likes of Eibach, Bilstein or KW will improve the car.

The braking system is not known for problems, but the V6’s front discs can warp: “Check the rear brakes, too, as they can become ineffective,” Jamie says.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The GTV’s plastic-composite front and rear bumpers are susceptible to stone chips. Paint quality was not always great, so darker colours may have faded and reds may have become pinks. Lacquer peel is also becoming a problem now.

“Corrosion is the main thing to look for,” Jamie says. The rear arches can get frilly, and factory sideskirts can act as a rot trap.

Lusso versions of the Spider were fitted with electric roof mechanisms, and these are known to malfunction due to broken microswitches or stretched cabling. Both are easy fixes, but if the actual roof motor is damaged – which you’ll be able to see via a flashing LED next to the operating switch – you will be in for a big bill.

Terrible Alfa electrics are largely a thing of the past, although there are reports of faults with wipers, interior lights and window switches. If the airbag, ABS and engine-management lights don’t go out when the car is started, they may be faulty.

Leather front-seat bolsters tend to 36

suffer after years of use, but otherwise most of the interior is hard wearing.

WHICH TO BUY Thanks to its Pininfarina styling, emotive engines and crisp steering, the GTV makes for an excellent and relatively fussfree modern classic for not a lot of money.

If you’re planning to use yours as a B-road or track car, we’d advise against the V6; the extra metal over the front wheels makes itself known in extremis.

Jamie echoes this view: “For handling, the Twin Spark is the way to go,” he says. He also advises against the rare JTS-engined cars built late on in the model’s life.

The V6 is more suited to touring and A-roads. Fitting aftermarket suspension and an LSD will make it handle almost as well as a Twin Spark. The Cup currently sits at the top of the value tree – but you really have to want the bodykit and trim, as there are no mechanical differences to a normal V6. Jamie has another solution, one from the Phase 3 Pininfarina era. “The rare 3.2 V6 is the one to have for power,” he says.

Whichever engine you choose, it’s easy to fall in love with the GTV – as an emotive experience, it’s one of the finest modern classics you can buy.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £2800 Good: £4100 Excellent: £6900 (2000 GTV V6)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1998: Phase 2 introduced with updates including fresh centre console and switchgear plus colour-coded bumpers.

2.0-litre turbo V6 is now available on Spider and new 140bhp 1.8 engine is introduced for certain markets. All 3.0 models now come as standard with six-speed manual gearbox 2000: 2.0 V6 turbo and 1.8 engines discontinued, and all remaining powerplants modified to comply with stricter emissions standards 2001: Limited-edition GTV Cup offered with unique body styling and available in either 2.0- or 3.0-litre drivetrains. Total of 419 units are built, with 155 in RHD form with 3.0-litre V6 engine 2003: Phase 3 introduces range-wide updates such as softer suspension, uprated audio and availability of traction control on all but base model. More powerful 161bhp JTS 2.0 and new 240bhp 3.2 V6 arrive 2004: Production ends, but new vehicles are still available up until 2006

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0 TS inline-four Power: 148bhp Top speed: 134mph 0-60mph: 8.3 seconds Economy: 31mpg 3.0-litre 24v V6 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

217bhp 148mph 6.7 seconds 24mpg

WHY STORE YOUR CAR ANYWHERE ELSE? Henry’s Car Barn is way more than just vehicle storage. With a roster of onsite automotive experts, an all new dedicated clubhouse and event space why would you store your car anywhere else?

To find out more visit our website.

WWW.HENRYSCARBARN.CO.UK

BUYING GUIDE

1966–1993

Alfa Romeo Spider Hollywood glamour, Italian zest and wind-in-your-hair delights – the Alfa Spider is an experience to savour

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chassis when it went off sale in the early 1990s. In 1966, the first Spider used the Giulia GTV coupé’s aluminium twin-cam 1.6-litre four-cylinder engine. This revvy little powerplant produced 109bhp, a respectable figure for the day. A starring role in 1967’s The Graduate, courtesy of Dustin Hoffman, helped to fire the Series 1 Spider into the affections of many.

In 1967, the Duetto name was dropped, and then the engine and suspension were updated. Now known as the 1750 Spider Veloce, its nomenclature was a nod to the 1750 Super Sport of the 1930s. The following year saw the release of the 1300 Spider Junior model, powered by an 89bhp 1.3-litre four-cylinder engine.

The first major styling update came in

MAGIC CAR PICS

OR THREE DECADES THE Alfa Romeo Spider charmed the world with its curvaceous lines and zesty performance. For many, it defines the pure Italian roadster.

It all began in 1966, with the release of the ‘Duetto’ (boat-tail) model. This Series 1 car, with its curvaceous bodywork and enclosed headlights, is commonly viewed as the most desirable of the lot.

The lightweight, Pininfarina-designed roadster wasn’t just style over substance. It had a monocoque construction, disc brakes all round, independent front suspension and a five-speed manual gearbox – all somewhat novel for a 1960s sports car.

The Spider also has the distinction of being the last model to use the Giulia 105

The earlier the car, the more characterful the interior (this is an S1). Later cars better equipped.

38

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘The lightweight, Pininfarinadesigned roadster wasn’t just style over substance’

1970. This Series 2 featured a ‘Kamm tail’, which saw the curvaceous rear end of the original replaced by a slabbier but more aerodynamic version. Series 2 cars also received a revised front grille, a steeper windscreen and a revamped interior. A new 1962cc 132bhp engine arrived next, known as the 2000 Spider Veloce.

Bosch injection replaced the carbs in 1982, then becoming the Series 3. However, US safety regulations mandated the fitting of much-maligned rubber bumpers.

The Series 4 arrived for the 1991 model year, sporting body-coloured bumpers and redesigned rear lights, plus refreshed interior trim. Air-conditioning became an option, as did a three-speed auto ’box, while power steering and leather seats

were standard. Production ended in 1993.

The MGB may have outsold its Italian rival by several magnitudes, but the Spider’s elegant design maintains a strong interest “It’s the ultimate retro classic Italian sports car; the kudos and coolness supersede the MGB’s,” says Alfa Aid’s Adrian Jardine (www.alfaaid.co.uk). “If you pull up to a pub in a Spider, you’re not being pretentious – it’s classless.”

ENGINE “If you hear the chain rattling, you can adjust it out, but the engines can crack between the valve seats and blow head gaskets,” says Adrian. “Oil leaks are common, but you need to identify their source – a leak from the head to the block

is a sign of head-gasket problems.”

The Spider should fire up relatively easily, and idle at around 800rpm, while the water temperature should not go beyond 80°C. The oil-pressure gauge needle should sit at about halfway.

Any tappety noises should prompt an engine check-over. On S1 and S2 cars, lightly pull the carburettors upwards – if the revs increase, the rubber mounts need replacing. Alfaholics sells aftermarket aluminium versions for around £100.

Similarly, check the engine mounts: there should be decent clearance between the engine and the chassis crossmember.

To see whether water is leaking into the head, unscrew the oil-filler cap and check for any emulsification or condensation. If

an oil leak is present, it usually manifests itself underneath the head or carburettor.

Check that no brake fluid is leaking from the servos located at the top righthand side of the engine bay; the diaphragms in them can perish, leading to a build-up of fluid and consequent leaks.

The final place to look for leaks is the various hoses snaking around the engine bay. Finally, chain slap from the front of the cam cover is reasonably common and can be adjusted with relative ease.

GEARBOX The Spider has a long transmission throw, but it should feel smooth and go into gear easily. The synchromesh on second and reverse ratios tend to wear out first, so

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

39

listen out for any crunching or grinding, which indicates they’re on their way out.

Vibration at high speed indicates issues with the propshaft, back axle, gearbox or a whole lot more. Another clue to a worn synchro is if it pops out of gear, but this can be caused by the leather shift boot bunching up and stopping the ratio slotting in properly. Knocking from the centre console on the move is a tell-tale sign of a propshaft problem. Its mounting has a rubber doughnut that can perish over time, leading to expensive issues.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES “A well sorted car will handle beautifully,” says Adrian. “A bad one will put you in a ditch at 20mph. The positive bit is that most Spider parts are available new.”

The steering should be accurate and light; if it’s heavy, the steering box could be leaking fluid or cracked. Lift the inspection cover to check whether there’s still fluid inside. It can be refilled, but if a leak persists, a replacement box is best.

A Spider should feel nimble and poised; if it’s wallowy and imprecise, the suspension is due for a refresh. Worn bushes, misaligned components or blown dampers could be the culprit, but it’s all fairly easy to sort out, and upgraded parts are available from aftermarket suppliers.

The disc brakes are highly effective in the lightweight Spider, and impressive for a 1960s sports car. Shuddering is a sign the discs could be warped, while a sinking 40

pedal often means a leaking master cylinder – or brake servo on later cars.

BODYWORK “The five things to look for are rust, rust, rust, rust and rust,” says Adrian. It is imperative to check the bodywork for corrosion. The arches, sills, and front and rear valances should be your first port of call. Given the age of the cars, it’s likely the sills have already been replaced, but check to make sure that the work has been done properly. Drain holes near the foldable roof often become blocked, which leads to rot in the sills and wing bottoms.

Check that panel gaps are uniform, because poorly aligned bodywork points towards sub-standard accident repairs.

The main place to look for this is between the bottom of the door and the sill. If there is no seam here, any repair work has been done to a high standard, if it’s been carried

‘The 1972-78 2.0-litre Spider is the sweet spot.

It retains much of the 1960s’ styling, but boasts the more powerful engine’

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

out at all. Adrian also advises thoroughly checking the rear of the car. “If they get crashed in the back, there’s no strength over the wheelarches,” he explains. “If they have not been put on a jig properly, they’ll dip down at the rear more than they should, and they bulge out at the top of the arch. It’s more common on S2s, S3s and S4s.” Repairing this can be more than the value of an entire S3.

Lift the carpets and check the footwells for rust. There are two corrugated plastic scuttle drains that run above the ’wells.

When these crack they can leak water into the footwells, causing corrosion. The final cars had rubber scuttle drains, which are not predisposed to this problem, so if you buy an earlier example replace the original plastic items with the later rubber ones.

Finally, check the condition of the roof.

Soft-tops in poor condition can be replaced, yet the work will cost around £1000, so factor that into negotiations if the example you are looking at has a tired roof. The top should fit tightly, but it will leak if it is missing the small metal clip at the bottom sitting flush with the window.

INTERIOR The strength and rigidity of the interior were never strong points, so check for broken or missing trim pieces. Ensure all electrically operated items work properly, that the seat bolsters aren’t unduly worn and that the roof raises and lowers easily.

Most European-specification cars are

BUYING GUIDE

SPECIFICATIONS

MODEL HISTORY

1.3-litre inline-four Power: 89bhp Top speed: 108mph 0-62mph: 13.0 seconds Economy: N/A

1966: Series 1 Spider launches as Duetto, with 1600 engine and rounded tail

1.6-litre inline-four Power: 109bhp Top speed: 115mph 0-62mph: 11.3 seconds Economy: N/A

1969: Last year of rounded-tail Spiders.

Covered headlight kits come in boot

1.7-litre inline-four Power: 122bhp Top speed: 114mph 0-62mph: 9.9 seconds Economy: N/A

1971: 2000 engine introduced. Looks same as 1971 MY. Last year of steel wheels

2.0-litre inline-four Power: 132bhp Top speed: 122mph 0-62mph: 9.2 seconds Economy: N/A

1967: Duetto model discontinued 1968: SPICA mechanical injection for US. 1750 engine. Last year of covered lights

1970: Last year of Series 1; Series 2 arrives.

Kamm tail introduced. Screen has more rake. Chrome bumpers and grille revised

1973: Magnesium alloys introduced.

Trim added to chrome bumpers.

Rear lights now mounted in valance 1974: 2000 SPICA engine available in US. Last year of chrome bumpers in US 1975: New rubber bumpers. Restrictive manifold and engines detuned to meet stricter emissions standards. Plastic grille 1977: Carpet replaces rubber for floor/boot

From the top, S2, S3 and S4 variants; Series 1 is shown on previous pages.

fitted with wooden steering wheels, which are known to crack. Damaged rims can be repaired or replaced; some cars built for hotter climates had leather-wrapped wheels that are less susceptible to damage.

“Check the validity of the mileage – but not for the usual nefarious reasons,” says Adrian. “In the S3 and S4, Alfa overlaid the dials with an inlay in miles over kilometres. Sometimes the mileage is in km/h and vice versa. Those overlays can warp, so you can’t read how fast you’re going and it might stop clocking miles.”

WHICH TO BUY Enthusiasts point to the 1972-78 2.0-litre Spider as being the sweet spot. It retains much of the 1960s’ styling, but boasts the torquier and more powerful engine. Later cars are more modern and refined, but lose some choice quirks, especially inside.

42

“The Duetto is super cute, but don’t rule out the metal-bumper S2 – they came from the factory in RHD, later models didn’t,” Adrian says. “The S4 is the most usable because it has Motronic injection and power steering. They only came in LHD, though, and you need to be careful of poor RHD conversions, of which there are a lot. You can end up with cracked bulkheads, broken trim and more.”

Early and late models are higher priced, which gives the ’70s cars even more appeal.

However, every era of Spider is brimming with 1960s’ free-spirited DNA, with all the style and panache that go with it.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £9300 Good: £14,800 Excellent: £23,200 (1975 2000 Veloce)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1978: Last year for classic door panels and lower centre console. Niki Lauda Edition has rear spoiler, badging and stripes 1979: Chrome grille reintroduced. Centre console redesigned, door pockets added and seat design updated 1982: Veloce introduced. Bosch injection replaces SPICA set-up. Variable valve timing, power windows, mirrors and air-con arrive. Wheels and centre console redesigned. Cloth roof replaces vinyl 1983: Series 3 Veloce launched. More integrated rubber bumpers. Taillights updated. Bosch L-Jetronic injection fitted 1985: Base Graduate launched, named after 1967 movie. Lacks Veloce’s luxury features. Veloce gets leather trim 1986: Quadrifoglio boasts stiffer springs, red carpet and removable hard-top 1991: Series 4 arrives. Veloce now top car as Quadrifoglio discontinued. Bumpers now body coloured. Rear lights revised.

Bosch Motronic ECU supplies diagnostics 1993: Spider finishes long production run

ASTON SERVICE DORSET LTD, EST. 1934, Sole Aston Martin Heritage Dealer in the South West E Q U I P P E D TO D E A L W I T H A L L YO U R A S TO N M A RT I N R E Q U I R E M E N T S .

We remain proud of our factory appointed Heritage dealer TON MARTI N AS status and respected worldwide reputation.

EST 1913

S

H

Meticulously caring for ER RT the post war models right I T A G E P A through to the very latest and current models, our full on-site AMDS 2.0 Aston Martin Diagnostic System helps us identify problems quickly

A family run business spanning over three generations, every car is treated as if it were one of our own - from minor services and health checks through to major full restorations of the classics.

Forever at your disposal, our services are designed with you in mind as well as your Aston Martin.

73 Ringwood Road, Longham, Ferndown, Dorset BH22 9AA Tel: 01202 574727 Email: T antony. y forshaw@astonservi y. r cedorset.com rvi www.astonservicedorset.com

2001–PRESENT

Ariel Atom

Think of it as a superbike on four wheels – and with just about the same protection from the elements

C

OULD THIS BE THE 21ST century’s answer to the Lotus Seven? Simon Saunders’ own vision of a sports car was first previewed in 1996 and put into production four years later, and since then it’s become the definitive extreme road racer.

Don’t expect doors, windows or a windscreen, while even body panels are scant. The Ariel Atom is pretty much an advanced tubular chassis and little else. It is a pared-back, basics-only sports car.

The first models used a Rover K-series engine before moving onto Honda VTEC power. Despite these units coming from 44

mainstream production hatchbacks, the Atom’s light weight meant it could zip to supercar speeds in a flash.

Of the K-series Atoms, which made 120bhp-190bhp, very few come up for sale, so it may be worth focusing your efforts on sourcing one of the Atom 2 or later models. This was released in 2003 using a JDM-spec 2.0-litre Honda VTEC engine, and benefitted from numerous chassis tweaks. These versions are more common, and rather more powerful – 220bhp and 245bhp variants welcomed the brave, but the 275bhp and 300bhp supercharged versions were available for

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

the suitably unhinged. Both cars received a 25bhp power hike in later years.

The Atom 3 appeared with a newer Honda engine that incorporated balancer shafts and a revised chassis. More interior room was offered, and a small, vestigial windscreen became an option to make helmet-free driving a possibility. A Quaife limited-slip differential was available, too.

In 2013 the Atom 3.5 appeared, with another update to the Honda engine and more chassis tweaks. Engine outputs remained largely the same as before with minimal power hikes, but there were detail changes such as a digital dashboard and a slightly stiffened chassis.

Meanwhile, in 2010 the V8 model arrived, with a 475bhp 3.0-litre engine and major suspension changes. To stop the car taking off, large front and rear wings were added in a bid to boost downforce; despite this, the Atom V8 is one of the fastest road-legal cars in existence.

Now on its fourth generation (excluding limited-edition variants), the Atom may look broadly similar to the original, but it has been completely redesigned from the

BUYING GUIDE

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The early K-series-powered cars are generally dependable, and the head-gasket problems the unit became notorious for rarely affect the Atom as there is little in the way of bodywork to disrupt cooling.

The Honda-powered cars are reliable, naturally aspirated or otherwise. Check the fluids regularly, because oil surge when levels are low can occur under hard track use. Servicing should take place every year or 4500 miles. Erratic acceleration on part throttle could be down to a sodden spark-plug cap, unclean throttle body or iffy throttle-position sensor.

Rover gearboxes can be awkward to operate but are pretty robust. Honda units are smoother, yet the Atom 2 has exhibited some issues with the synchros, especially in the upper four ratios. Newer models use a more reliable six-speeder. Gearbox oil should be changed with the same frequency as the engine oil. Clutches tend to be long lasting, but replacing them is a labour-intensive, engine-out undertaking.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES You can expect the suspension bushes to last for five years, although you’ll get through them quicker if you’re a track-day regular. Pre-2011 Atoms are known to wear out their rear wheel bearings, so listen out for any grumbling sounds.

Atom 3s had a much more comfortable ride compared with its forebears thanks to its adjustable dampers. The rose-jointed suspension and track-rod ends can wear over time, as can steering-column bushes.

Parts supply is generally good, and there isn’t a great deal to go wrong, other than wear-and-tear items. Thanks to the low weight, the brakes and tyres are fairly under stressed, even with track use.

The Atom 2 and 3’s one-piece brake discs are no longer available from maker Alcon, but Ariel can supply alternatives.

Floating two-piece items are available via

the aftermarket, and are more than up to the job, according to owners.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR What bodywork, you might say? The body is the chassis, which can be subject to stone chips with corrosion swiftly following. Check for accident damage, because fixing the frame is a costly job.

Figuring out where the exterior ends and interior starts can be tricky. Aside from a set of seats and basic switchgear, there is not much to look at ‘inside’.

Instrument packs can fail on older cars, and replacements are expensive.

While the plastic bucket seats are hardy items, you can have moulded-resin inserts made. You’ll be looking at around £500 to have that done, but a cheaper option would be to have a set of pads made for the base, shoulder, back and head.

WHICH TO BUY The Ariel Atom is a car with a philosophy – if something doesn’t add to the driving experience, it’s not going in. As a result, this is pure, extreme motoring, and an experience that goes beyond mere driving.

Not many road-legal cars recommend you don a helmet for a drive to the shops, and the closest competitors tend to be of the two-wheeled variety Supply is low but demand remains high, meaning that Atoms don’t really depreciate. Indeed, the V8s are now worth significantly more than they cost new.

Most examples have low mileages, and have been well cared for and kept inside out of the UK’s weather. Limited-edition variants can be expensive, but any model will more than suffice if you’re demanding an immersive and exhilarating drive.

The best thing is that the Ariel Atom owners’ club is filled with passionate enthusiasts – and it’s easy to see why owners love them and rarely want to part with their pride and joy. Just spend five minutes in one and you’ll see, too...

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £25,000 Good: £30,000 Excellent: £40,000 (2011 Atom 3)

ARIEL

ground up, says Tom Siebert of Ariel Motor (www.arielmotor.co.uk). Honda still provides the motive power via the 2.0-litre turbo now delivering 320bhp. All but the most expensive hypercars simply won’t be able to keep up with you.

There’s not much to the interior apart from seats, switchgear and an instrument pack.

MODEL HISTORY 2000: Ariel Atom introduced with Rover running gear – only 100 units built, producing 120bhp-190bhp 2003: Atom 2 arrives with Honda VTEC engines in 220bhp naturally aspirated and 275bhp supercharged versions 2005: Power outputs for both models increased by 25bhp 2007: Atom 3 introduced with new Honda engines and uprated suspension.

Power outputs remain unchanged.

Chassis modified to increase cabin space.

Optional windscreen made available.

New six-speed gearbox introduced 2010: Limited-edition V8 version introduced with 475bhp 3.0-litre V8 2013: Atom 3.5 introduced. Digital dash and chassis tweaks. Supercharged version’s power increased to 310bhp 2018: Atom 4 introduced with 320bhp turbocharged Honda engine

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre inline-four supercharged (Atom 3 300) Power: 300bhp Top speed: 155mph 0-60mph: 3.1 seconds Economy: 25mpg (est.)

2.0-litre inline-four turbocharged (Atom 4) Power: 320bhp Top speed: 162mph 0-60mph: 2.8 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

45

BUYING GUIDE

2005–2011

Aston Martin V8 Vantage The last of the Ford-developed Aston Martins, the 2005-onwards V8 Vantage is now more attainable than ever – and it sounds as lovely as it looks...

A

direct and obvious rival to the Porsche 911.

It was launched with a new 4.3-litre V8 engine developing an impressive 385bhp, but although the V8 sounded fantastic and was brimming with character, it had to be worked hard in order to exploit its performance. Peak torque didn’t arrive until 5000rpm, and the top of its power curve came some 2000rpm later.

The issue was addressed somewhat in 2008 with the introduction of a revised 4.7-litre V8 with 426bhp, while the power of the 4.3 was increased to 400bhp.

Just before the revised engines came along, Aston also introduced a soft-top.

The V8 Vantage Roadster was aimed at

ASTON MARTIN

STON MARTIN FIRST teased us with the Vantage at the 2003 North American International Auto Show. That led to a production launch two years later of a car that looked virtually the same.

Not that it was a bad thing – the V8 Vantage was an astonishingly pretty model, penned by the Danish-American designer Henrik Fisker and brought to the Aston showrooms with barely a visual change.

The car was revealed in production form at the 2005 Geneva Motor Show, based on the chassis of the DB9. Sales commenced that September, with prices starting from £79,995 – making it a

Hard-wearing trim means the cabins of all but the highest-mileage cars will still be fairly smart.

46

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

a different target market and was pitched as more of a boulevard cruiser, but it was still an epic performance car in its own right. Today, the V8 Vantage is terrific value. You’ll get a good one from £30,000, but you need to factor in that these are specialist cars and so they require specialist maintenance.

There were several special editions and specifications, but there are three to look out for in particular. The Prodrive V8 Vantage of 2007 consisted of four upgrade packages covering the engine, suspension, wheels and brakes (more on that later). In the same year, the N400 (4.3) model was launched to celebrate the car’s successes at the Nürburgring, which had 400bhp, suspension tweaks and bespoke interior

‘All are incredible cars to look at and sit in, and they are more exclusive than Porsche 911s and Jaguar XKRs’

and exterior trim. The 2010 N420 applied similar upgrades to the 4.7-litre car.

In 2011, the V8 Vantage S arrived in showrooms, with a 430bhp iteration of the 4.7-litre V8. It delivered a 190mph top speed and 0-60mph in 4.5 seconds with help from closer gear ratios and a lower final drive in the rear diff. For this guide, we’ll be focusing on the pre-S models.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The engine, gearbox and driveline on manual models are normally bombproof.

Other than relatively weak clutches, everything else is pretty tough.

The quad-cam V8 is related to the Jaguar AJ V8 unit, but because it didn’t arrive until 2005 there are none of the

Nikasil-liner issues related to earlier iterations – it’s all fairly straightforward stuff. Regular maintenance is the key.

As for the transmission, the six-speed manual gives very few issues even at high mileages, but the six-ratio sequential auto can be troublesome due to software and module failure. Don’t confuse this with the seven-speed automated ’box on 2011on cars, which is usually trouble free.

Don’t buy a car if the engine has already failed, rare as that may be, because remanufactured motors and gearboxes are currently not supported by the factory.

This can cause serious issues if a car needs a replacement.

Another, surprising, thing to bear in mind is that you’ll need to book well in

advance if you need servicing or repairs, because there aren’t enough independent specialists in Aston Martins of this era, so most have a waiting list.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Again, it’s mostly service items that you need to be aware of – there’s nothing that breaks specifically other than through general wear and tear, but it helps to know exactly what you’ve got, because specifications are quite different.

All cars have independent aluminium double wishbones front and rear, while coil-over dampers work with an anti-roll bar at both ends. On the 4.3, the Sports Pack came with firmer Bilstein springs and dampers, as well as lightweight forged

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

47

19-inch alloy wheels. With the 2008 arrival of the 4.7, 19-inch alloys were standard and there was a range of optional styles up to 21 inches. These aren’t recommended, because they give a very harsh ride.

In addition, you could specify a Prodrive Pack, identifiable by its sevenrather than five-spoke rims. The Prodrive Pack also used firmer Eibach springs and Bilstein dampers, while the Brembo brakes were upgraded over those of the standard models.

Also, bear in mind that the Vantage is heavy on rubber. If driven gently, you might get 20,000 miles out of a set of tyres, but 10,000-15,000 is more the norm.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Body repairs can be costly, especially as the shape means they’re prone to stone chips around the front. You may have to wait for replacement panels, too, as Aston only makes them in small batches, and there are no pattern suppliers.

Check for the usual signs of accident repairs, too, such as uneven tyre wear or poor panel gaps. Other than that, body electrical systems cause the biggest issues. Early [pre-10-plate cars] door modules are likely to fail on every example, as do the convertible-roof module and transmission module.

Interior materials are all pretty hard wearing, and unless a car has covered a particularly high mileage most examples are still fairly smart in the cabin.

48

WHICH TO BUY With a budget below £45,000, specialists advise that you opt for a six-speed manual.

And unless you really must have the sixspeed automated-shift manual, avoid it; this unit can suffer from module problems.

It’s also less fun to drive. The 4.7 is the more enjoyable car on the road.

Of course, all are incredible cars to look at and sit in, and they are more exclusive than, say, Porsche 911s and Jaguar XKRs. These Aston Martins are classic and understated, meaning they suit a particular buyer that a McLaren, Lamborghini or Ferrari might not. And they have an epic exhaust note, too!

SPECIFICATIONS 4.3-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

385bhp 175mph 4.9 seconds 21mpg

4.7-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

426bhp 181mph 4.6 seconds 21mpg

‘The V8 Vantage is terrific value – but these are specialist cars and so they require specialist maintenance’

MODEL HISTORY 2003: Aston Martin V8 Vantage concept, styled by Henrik Fisker, shown at North American International Auto Show 2005: V8 Vantage 4.3 appears at Geneva Motor Show. Sales begin in September 2007: Roadster version launched.

Prodrive offers four upgrade packages for aerodynamics, wheels, tyres, engine and suspension. N400 model boosts power to 400bhp, complete with suspension tweaks and bespoke trim 2008: New 4.7-litre V8 appears, producing 426bhp

VA LUAT I O N S

2010: N420 launched, applying similar upgrades to N400 predecessor but with 4.7-litre engine

Fair: £25,000 Good: £30,000 Excellent: £38,000

2011: Range revamped with introduction of new 430bhp V8 Vantage S

INSURANCE AND AGREED

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

Aston Aston Martin Martin Works Works Virage Virage 6.3 6.3 Coupe Coupe MINKY MINKY

Milton Milton Keynes Keynes

Aston Aston Martin Martin 15/98 15/98 Short Short Chassis Chassis 2 litre 2 litre touring touring

Aston Aston Martin Martin DB4DB4 GT Zagato GT Zagato Race Race Car Car (Replica) (Replica)

Aston Aston Martin Martin DB5DB5

Aston Aston Martin Martin DB2/4 DB2/4 MKIIMKII

Aston Aston Martin Martin DB6DB6 Manual Manual

Aston Aston Martin Martin V8 Vantage V8 Vantage Roadster Roadster N400 N400

Aston Aston Martin Martin V8 Saloon V8 Saloon Series Series 4 4 ‘Oscar ‘Oscar India’ India’

Aston Aston Martin Martin V8 Vantage V8 Vantage Zagato Zagato LeftLeft Hand Hand Drive Drive Manual Manual

Aston Aston Martin Martin V8 Vantage V8 Vantage X Pack X Pack Coupe Coupe Manual Manual

AstonAston Martin Martin DB2/4 DB2/4 Drophead Drophead AstonAston Martin Martin DB2 DB2 Drophead Drophead Restored Restored AstonAston Martin Martin DB4 DB4 S1 RHD S1 RHD AstonAston Martin Martin DB4 DB4 Project Project AstonAston Martin Martin DB6 DB6 Saloon Saloon Man Man RHDRHD AstonAston Martin Martin DB6 DB6 Volante Volante Man Man RHDRHD AstonAston Martin Martin DB6 DB6 Vantage Vantage LH LH AstonAston Martin Martin DB7 DB7 Vantage Vantage Man Man RHDRHD

AstonAston Martin Martin DB7 DB7 Vantage Vantage AutoAuto RHDRHD AstonAston Martin Martin One-77 One-77 LHD LHD AstonAston Martin Martin Vanquish Vanquish S LHD S LHD AstonAston Martin Martin V8 Lagonda V8 Lagonda S3 LHD S3 LHD AstonAston Martin Martin V8 Vantage V8 Vantage 550 Man 550 Man AstonAston Martin Martin V8 Vantage V8 Vantage V600V600 Man Man AstonAston Martin Martin V8 Vantage V8 Vantage X Pack X Pack Coupe Coupe LHD LHD

AstonAston Martin Martin Virage Virage Coupe Coupe AstonAston Martin Martin Virage Virage FULLFULL 6.3 Man 6.3 Man RHDRHD AstonAston Martin Martin V8 Volante V8 Volante LHD LHD AstonAston Martin Martin V8 Volante V8 Volante RHDRHD Man Man AstonAston Martin Martin DB2/4 DB2/4 LHD LHD AstonAston Martin Martin V8 Lagonda V8 Lagonda Series Series 4 4 Lagonda Lagonda M45 M45 Tourer Tourer 1933M 1933M

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

1998–2006

Audi TT Mk1

Ultra stylish, cheap to run and yet to become truly expensive, the Audi TT is one to watch

T

HE TT WAS A REVELATION at the 1995 Frankfurt Motor Show, where it debuted as a 2+2 Coupé. Its Bauhaus-esque design turned heads, and when a Roadster version debuted at the Tokyo expo a few months later, Audi simply had to build it.

It appeared three years later with few changes to the concepts, and subsequently went on to become highly popular.

At launch, the only engine option was a 1.8-litre inline-four petrol turbo. VW’s 3.2-litre VR6 powerplant later joined the range, offering 247bhp. All motors were mounted transversely. You could also 50

specify a Quattro all-wheel-drive system, while the doors, bonnet and bootlid were crafted from aluminium. Five- or sixspeed manual gearboxes were offered, as well as an innovative six-speed DSG auto.

The TT was criticised in period for not being an uncompromised, thoroughbred sports car, but this is now a good thing – certainly in terms of looking for parts.

The Audi is a robust little machine that offers reliable, entertaining motoring as long as it’s been looked after. “It’s iconic,” says Vince Hickman of The TT Shop (www. thettshop.co.uk). “The design is timeless and many prefer the look of the Mk1.”

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

If shopping for four-cylinder cars, beware that examples with a chequered service history can often suffer with oil-starvation problems from a blocked oil pick-up pipe.

Leaks around the rocker cover, injector ports and inlet manifold are common issues. A rattling cambelt will need to be replaced, along with its tensioners. A cambelt should last 60,000 miles or five years, although this is often overlooked.

Make sure it’s been done, because a broken cambelt means a £2500 engine rebuild. Budget £450 for a fresh cambelt.

While the standard water pump has brittle plastic impeller blades that are known to snap, replacement metal impellers are available. However, there is debate as to whether the metal ones are better, as they can put extra wear on the water pump bearings. “It depends on the mileage,” says Vince. “I use revised official Audi plastic impellers; metal ones were designed to flow better at a higher rpm.”

The engine’s dipstick tubing is also made of plastic and can snap, leading to a breather problem. “A lot of people

BUYING GUIDE

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Failing wishbones or anti-roll bars are usually evidenced by a knocking sound from the front suspension; springs are also known to snap. “Rear trailing-arm bushes perish,” says Vince. “Replace those before the 100,000-mile mark.”

Suspension bushes can disintegrate with age, although these are cheap and easy to remedy. The front bushes were replaced with larger ones as part of a highspeed sustainability recall in 2000, but can be downsized to improve handling.

“The exposed rear brake lines are an MoT hotspot due to corrosion; the coating starts to break away,” says Vince.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR While the extensive use of aluminium body panels has kept rust at bay, the earliest cars have now seen their 20th year – and corrosion is becoming a problem. You’ll often find rot in the front wheelarches, sills, bootlid and rear quarter panels, and in the roof rails of the Coupé versions. “Front wings are a definite spot to check, too,” adds Vince.

Misaligned panels and inconsistent paint texture usually means the car has been crashed. Bodywork mods are common – make sure they’ve been done professionally, to avert any future issues.

The cabin is decently made and should still be holding up well. Heated leather seats are common on first-gen TTs, and will likely be showing bolster wear; the heater elements are also known to fail.

“Check that the back seats operate as they should,” Vince advises. “The mechanism in the rears can wear, and when people put them down they become misaligned; it’s a tricky repair that involves reshaping the bracket.”

WHICH TO BUY There’s a huge choice of TT models available, so take some time to work out what experience you’re ultimately looking for. Enthusiasts say the Coupé is generally more practical and refined as a daily driver, while the soft-top Roadster is more enjoyable as a summer sports car.

Although Vince suggests the Quattro Sport as the pick of the range, he also highly recommends a facelift 225 model: “It’s lighter than the V6, and is probably a better platform for tuning.”

Reliable, well made and still relatively modern, there isn’t a huge amount of risk involved in buying a TT. However, low values have meant many have been abused and subjected to a harsh life, so it’s better to spend more money and secure a properly looked-after example to avoid future expense.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £1500 Good: £5000 Excellent: £7000 (2000 1.8 225 Roadster)

AUDI

overlook the rocker cover leak, too,” adds Vince, who advises checking the gasket around the timing-chain adjuster, as well as the plastic and rubber hoses near the intake manifold. The latter can crack, split or go squidgy over time.

While many cars have been remapped, the quality of the work varies. Make sure it’s been done properly via a well known and well respected tuner. The VR6 engine is largely robust, but rattly camchains are a known problem. “Fixing this is a labour-intensive procedure, because you have to remove the engine,” says Vince.

“It costs around £3000.”

Manual TT gearboxes are highly robust, and clutches can last for 100,000 miles if the car has been treated with respect.

Clutch replacement is a labour-intensive job, which is made more challenging when packaged in with the all-wheeldrive equipment on Quattro models. The clutch pedal can also snap off completely.

You should budget to have the Haldex diff coupling serviced every 38,000 miles.

Although this costs £100, it is the TT’s most commonly overlooked maintenance requirement. “Haldex units are generally fairly robust if well serviced,” Vince says.

The DSG’s transmission oil should be changed every 40,000 miles. Hesitant or jerky gearchanges mean that the Mechatronic unit is failing – and the fix will cost £1200: “DSG cars can suffer with rattly flywheels after a number of years,” explains Vince. “Some people mistake the noise with that of the camchain.”

Typical Audi high build quality and great styling make the TT a perfect modern classic.

MODEL HISTORY 1995: TT concept car unveiled 1998: TT Coupé released 1999: TT Roadster released 2000: Recall for stability issues.

ESP fitted. Six-speed ’box across range 2001: S-Line Coupé launched; leather seats, 18in wheels and lower suspension 2002: Lowered and 18in rims across range 2002: 3.2-litre Quattro VR6 released, DSG auto now available. Bigger brakes, new front bumper, rear splitter and spoiler 2003: FWD 148bhp Roadster with fivespeed ’box. Roadster available with 3.2 VR6 and Quattro AWD. Manual ’box for 3.2 2004: FWD 178bhp car available.

Can be specified with six-speed DSG 2005: Coupé Quattro Sport launched.

Has 236bhp and 49kg-lighter kerbweight 2005: 148bhp upped to 161bhp; 178bhp up to 187bhp. 222bhp option phased out 2006: Mk2 TT replaces Mk1

SPECIFICATIONS 1.8-litre turbo inline-four Power: 148-236bhp Top speed: 133-155mph (limited) 0-62mph: 6.6-8.6 seconds Economy: 30-35mpg 3.2-litre VR6 Power: Top speed: 0-62mph: Economy:

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

247bhp 155mph (limited) 5.7-6.3 seconds 27mpg

51

BUYING GUIDE

1953–1956

Austin-Healey 100 The first Big Healey’s well balanced handling charms as much as its pretty bodywork delights

T

to drive – a three-speed manual with overdrive and that 2.7-litre engine meant the much-lauded 100mph was a very real target. 1955 saw the first major change, with the introduction of the Second Series BN2 models. An uprated fourspeed gearbox and new rear axle advanced the driving dynamics, while two-tone paintwork made its debut on this model.

It was a big year for Austin-Healey, because the limited-edition 100M model appeared, too, with large carburettors, high-lift cams and other refinements. It developed 110bhp, and became so popular that many 100M components were offered to BN1 and BN2 customers as the Le Mans Engine Modification Kit. The rarest and most sought-after

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE AUSTIN-HEALEY 100 represents the start of a lineage of ‘Big Healeys’ that set a template for those that followed – good, honest, no-frills fun with an engaging drivetrain and excellent handling.

Earning its name from its ability to crack 100mph, its mechanicals were based on those of the Austin A90. The uprated 90bhp 2.7-litre inline-four engine provided spirited performance in a streamlined package, and it became an instant hit in both the UK and the US. Around 14,600 Austin-Healey 100s were built in total, made up of 10,000 earlier BN1 cars followed by the subsequently updated BN2s, 100M and 100S variants.

The first BN1 cars were very enjoyable

The supply of cabin trim parts remains healthy for these cars – and it is mainly made in the UK.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Earning its name from its ability to crack 100mph, its mechanicals were based on those of the Austin A90’

version is the 100S, of which just 50 were made. Built for competition, the 100S received major changes to the running gear and chassis to help produce 132bhp and reduce weight by 90kg. Most were painted white on blue, and all featured Dunlop disc brakes front and rear. There are several M and S replicas around, so consult a marque authority to make sure you’re buying the real deal.

“It’s a pure, no-frills sports car,” says John Scott-Nelson of specialist Murray Scott-Nelson (www.murrayscott-nelson. com). “You can fold the screen into the racing position and become a racing driver. The entire engine sits behind the crossmember, so the handling is superb – better than on the six-cylinder Healeys.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Powerplants tend to be reliable if regularly serviced, but it is always wise to carry out a full inspection for perished hoses or suspect leaks. The engines are known to lose oil, and water can leak from between the cylinder head and block. “The head gasket is the Achilles’ heel of the engine,” says John. “It’s best to fit a racing head gasket; it costs £100 more than a standard one, but you get what you pay for.”

Meanwhile, the clutch features a mechanical linkage, which needs to be kept well greased in order to maintain smooth operation. Talking of the transmission, with the BN1 three-speeder if you lose overdrive you’re effectively losing top gear. “It’s just down to wear

and tear, bad maintenance and electrical problems,” explains John. “It’s a simple fix, but it’s a whole day’s work to sort.

Four-speed ’boxes did not have synchro on first, so don’t be too hard on yourself for crunching it into gear.”

Modification is common in these cars.

Toyota gearboxes, uprated brakes and engine mods are common on early ones – make sure it was all done professionally.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Other than the 100S, all 100s used drum brakes front and rear, and if set up properly these should work effectively.

Some cars have been converted to the front-disc set-up that was standard on the 3000 Mk3s from 1959 onwards. “A

disc-brake conversion is often preferable and not that expensive,” says John.

Steering boxes are known to leak, and if the one on your car feels loose it’s possible the kingpins are worn; these components should be greased three times every year, advises John. “These cars had a ‘flat-top’ steering box; later boxes are a lot better,” he adds. “Replacement ‘dome-top’ steering boxes are designed for the 3000, but while not correct as a direct like-for-like replacement, it’s a worthwhile upgrade that transforms the handling.”

Worn back springs are indicated by a sagging rear end: “It’s half a day’s job to get the work done.” Every oil service should be complemented by greasing the steering and suspension joints.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

53

‘This AustinHealey offers beautiful looks, a scintillating drive and a raw vivacity rooted in a different era’ BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Rustproofing was unheard of at this time, and while the process is likely to have been performed by subsequent owners, corrosion is tenacious. Pay particular attention to the floorpan, arches and rear boot cavity. A badly rusted bodyshell may spell the end of an otherwise solid car.

“The 100’s body is quite advanced for the time, but it is fragile,” says John.

“While the ladder chassis is robust, the upper inner structure is susceptible to corrosion,” he continues. It’s worth getting a specialist to cast an expert eye over the car’s bodywork, because an otherwise pristine-looking example can be suffering from corrosion underneath.

Beware, as well, that the aluminium bonnets and bootlids fitted to the earliest BN1 models (up to July 1954) lowered kerbweight, but they’re very easily dented.

Most cars will have been retrimmed by now, but if you need anything, parts are available. They can be expensive, and offthe-shelf items might not always fit due to small differences between cars. Factor in spending a little on rectifying sun damage or missing trim – it’s a common sight.

“Healey parts are well catered for, as most spares are UK made. AH Spares has an 80 to 90 percent supply rate,” John says.

WHICH TO BUY The enthusiastic following for these cars means that parts and spares can be easily sourced from a number of specialists –

54

but 1950s prices are a thing of the past.

Engaging with an Austin-Healey club and enthusiast website will make ownership easier and far more pleasurable.

Restoring a 100 can make financial sense, but only if the major components are intact and the body is not too ravaged by corrosion. For everyone else, a highly original car (with documentation) or a professionally restored one are the best ways to ensure an enjoyable experience.

All 100s are great fun to drive, but later cars benefitted from desirable upgrades and extra power. The rare 100M is sought after and will command a premium over normal 100s, but many standard cars have been converted to 100M spec with the period Le Mans kit. While this enhances the driving experience, make sure the example you’re looking at has a verifiable history. The 100S models are ultra rare and command the highest prices.

“The best version is the BN2, but you can get a BN1 with the M-spec conversion and later four-speed ’box – they’re worth a look,” says John. He reckons ruling out a BN1 is unfair, but you have to be vigilant: “Make sure the three-speeder, if it is still fitted, is working properly, because there are virtually no parts to repair them.”

This Austin-Healey offers beautiful looks, a scintillating drive and a raw vivacity rooted in a different era. With excellent club support and Historic racing credibility, the 100 makes for the quintessential British sports car experience.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

MODEL HISTORY 1953: First Series BN1 launched with 90bhp 2.7-litre inline four-cylinder engine. Three-speed manual transmission with overdrive 1954: Cars built up until July feature aluminium bonnets and bootlids 1955: Second Series BN2 launched.

Four-speed manual with overdrive replaces old unit. Limited-edition 100M introduced with 110bhp; 640 units produced. Le Mans Engine Modification Kit made available for both BN1 and BN2 cars. Racing-spec 100S introduced with lightened weight and increased power - 50 units built. Majority are painted white on blue 1956: Austin-Healey 100 production ends, with total of 14,634 cars built

SPECIFICATIONS 2.7-litre OHV inline-four Power: 90-132bhp Top speed: 115mph-plus 0-60mph: 10.3 seconds Economy: 22mpg INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £27,000 Good: £41,900 Excellent: £53,500

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Sharing your Passion for 50 Years Sharing your Passion for 50 Years Since our doors opened in 1972, our focus has always been on the and in pride of our Austin Healey motoring.

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A H Spares on willthe continue to deliver the best possible service to our customers and will promote the classic carthe industry for generations toour come.

A H Spares continue to deliver best possible service to customers and promote the classic car industry for generations to come.

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We are excited to celebrate this milestone with you!

AH Spares Ltd. Units 7/8, Westfield Road, Kineton Industrial Estate, Southam, Warwickshire, CV47 0JH. UK. AH Spares Ltd. Units 7/8, Westfield Road, Kineton Industrial Estate, T: 01926 817181 F: 01926 817868 E: sales@ahspares.co.uk ahspares.co.uk Southam, Warwickshire, CV47 0JH. UK. T: 01926 817181 F: 01926 817868 E: sales@ahspares.co.uk

ahspares.co.uk

ADVERTISING FEATURE

Generations of greatness For decades, JME Healeys has been a familyrun institution for all things Austin-Healey PHOTOS: JME HEALEYS

D

EDICATION TO AUSTINHealeys is only natural for the Everard family, the team behind JME Healeys.

JME founder Jonathan Everard was employed by the Donald Healey Motor Company at Warwick in the early 1960s; his father Harold already worked for the firm and he helped to arrange Jonathan’s apprenticeship. Fast forward to 1978, and Everard Jnr’s love for the marque prompted him to start JME Healeys.

For more than 40 years now, JME has been dedicated to the restoration and preservation of this quintessentially

British sports car. Jonathan developed his knowledge of the ‘Big Healeys’ over those four decades while renovating, maintaining and rallying these superb machines. The company is now run by Jonathan’s sons, Chris and Dan, who continue to offer a comprehensive restoration and competition-preparation service on all Austin-Healeys.

In 2008, JME bought The Cape Works in Warwick, where Donald Healey built the Westland Roadster in 1945 – and, seven years later, the prototype 100 model. JME continues to work in these historic workshops, offering not only

servicing and restoration, but also a dedicated fabrication workshop and showwinning paint department. In addition there’s an in-house trim and upholstery area, as well as an engine department that can cater for all needs, whether it’s for a standard powerplant, a fast road unit, or a race- or rally-winning-spec 100/4 or 3000 motor. JME can also prepare your car for competition, at both club and international level on race tracks and rally stages alike.

With decades of knowledge and a strong family ethic, JME Healeys is the natural home for your Austin-Healey.

From simple servicing to a full-on competition-spec conversion, or anything in between, JME Healeys has got you covered.

JME Cape Works Special Retaining the integrity and simplicity of the original Austin Healey 100/4.

Reimagined and built in the original Donald Healey workshop in Warwick.

“Our aim was to produce a car that not only looked fast & exciting, but was also exciting to drive, mixing the power of a race car with the refinement and usability of a road car” jmehealeys.co.uk

BUYING GUIDE

1959–1967

Austin-Healey 3000

‘The 3000 is the quintessential British sports car – you can’t mistake it. Demand has never been higher’

The last of the Big Healeys offers a wind-in-thehair drive and seat-of-the-pants handling thrills

P

OWERFUL ENGINE, CRISP handling and looks that could charm even the most ardent classic vehicle naysayer; the Austin-Healey 3000 was a fitting way to say goodbye to the ‘Big Healey’ era.

The 3000 got its name from the sixcylinder engine’s near-3.0-litre capacity, enough to provide 124bhp. Front disc brakes were now standard fitment over the 100M, and it was available in two-seat roadster or 2+2 bodystyles.

1961’s Mk2 variant ushered in a triple SU HS4 carb set-up and an upgraded camshaft, garnering an extra 8bhp. A centre-change gearbox was introduced along the way, too. You can spot this model by the vertical slats in the front grille. The

following year’s Mk2A featured a more user-friendly folding roof and a move back to a twin-carburettor set-up, which sacrificed a mere 1bhp for improved efficiency. You also got wind-up windows.

The Mk3 was the 3000’s final incarnation, appearing in 1964. It offered a big step up in power, now at 150bhp, and a much more luxurious interior, which included a walnut-veneered dashboard and a fold-down rear seat. Early Mk3s used the Mk2A chassis, but later cars had a new platform design to cure the model’s issue of minimal rear ground clearance.

Reshaped chassis rails, radius arms instead of Panhard-rod suspension and an exhaust system tucked up behind the adjacent sill all made onward progress

less affected by ‘crunch’. Production of the 3000 Mk3 lasted until 1967.

“It’s the quintessential British sports car – you can’t mistake it,” says Chris Everard from JME Healeys (www.jme healeys.co.uk). “Values have sky-rocketed, but demand has never been higher.”

MAGIC CAR PICS

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

The 3000’s interior is relatively simple, and a high-quality retrim can make a huge difference.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

The 2.9-litre OHV inline-six is a solid design and has no inherent issues. Most engines have been rebuilt by now, and if yours is showing signs of excessive wear (such as blue exhaust smoke, lacklustre performance or strange noises), parts are readily available for an overhaul.

Another key issue to look for is low oil pressure, says Chris. “Oil-pressure gauges

should read 50-60psi when the engine is cold, and 40-50psi when it has warmed up,” he explains. Make sure to read these measurements at 2000rpm.

Given the car’s esteemed history in contemporary and Historic motorsport, performance parts are easily obtainable.

Owners often replace cast-iron cylinder heads with modern, aluminium versions, which are lighter, produce more power and help dissipate heat more effectively; the original iron cylinder head is known for cracking. Make sure hardened valve seats, suitable for unleaded petrol, have been fitted, and also that any modifications have been done by a reputable specialist.

All 3000s came fitted with a four-speed manual, with no synchro on first. Mk2s

received a gearstick between the front seats, as opposed to the earlier sideselector layout. If the car is fitted with an overdrive, then it should engage on both third and fourth ratio. If not, the solenoid may simply need replacing – but an entire rebuild isn’t out of the question.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The 3000’s braking system is relatively simple, so any problems are likely to be down to seized calipers and corroded disc surfaces, which can affect cars that are left standing for long periods. Another known issue is weeping rear drum cylinders, which can contaminate the shoes and eventually lead to brake failure.

“Later Mk3s have a brake servo that can

be problematic at times,” Chris adds.

The suspension is also mostly trouble free, but modified cars with stiffer springs or bushes can, unsurprisingly, be less forgiving over bumps. While for general road use it’s often best to leave the set-up as the factory intended, the original bushes are often perished by now. Chris suggests replacing them with more durable polyurethane items that come in different ratings of hardness, allowing you some freedom over compliance.

One area to upgrade is the tyres; modern radials are preferable to the original crossply rubber. Wire wheels can get damaged, so check for worn splines.

Elsewhere, the kingpins can wear, which is evidenced by excessive movement from

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

59

Healeys were successful in competition, so Works rally replicas are extremely popular.

the front wheels. “One of the main jobs we do is rebushing or reshimming the front kingpins – it’s very common,” says Chris. “We have a special tool to set the right preload. Too much play here, and the car will suffer badly from bump steer.”

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The semi-monocoque bodyshell can rust in numerous places, and repairs are costly.

The obvious spots are the wings, doors and sills, which are often a place for injudicious use of filler. Some areas such as the chassis main rails can start rusting from the inside out, so we’d highly recommend you get a specialist to look at the car.

Other problem areas are the front and rear outriggers, boot floor, A- and Bpillars, footwells, boot boxes (into which the rear leaf springs attach) plus front and rear crossmembers: “They are the front and rear jacking points, so it’s common to see them dented,” says Chris.

Many cars have been resprayed or restored by now, so check for the usual things such as uneven panel gaps, overspray and poor welding. “Take a good look at the swage lines, particularly on high-value cars,” Chris advises. “On freshly specialist-restored cars, there should be no excuses for them being out of alignment.”

Corrosion of different kind – electrolytic – can be found between each pair of front and rear wings, surrounding the bonnet and bootlid, where aluminium meets steel.

The cabin is relatively simple, and a 60

high-quality retrim can make a huge difference. Mk3s had a more luxurious cabin, and some items – such as the wood veneer – can be hard to source.

WHICH TO BUY Viewed in Big Healey lineage, the 3000 kept to the traditions of earlier cars with incremental honing of the recipe. As a result, the Mk3s are much more refined than the first examples. The two-seaters are rarer, and so are much more sought after. There are marked differences in the way they drive compared with the 2+2 – particularly the centre-change Mk2 – so it’s worth driving two good examples back-to-back if you get the opportunity.

While the later Mk2A and Mk3 models offer more performance and a number of detail improvements, any 3000 is an enjoyable drive. Many of the upgrades can be retrofitted if originality is not a must. “A Mk3 with good door gaps, swage lines and interior is my choice,” Chris says. “The ride is far superior to all the other versions.”

Don’t get distracted by those seductive lines and shiny paintwork; buying a rusty car can be a very costly mistake. However, there’ll be no mistaking the huge grin on your face behind the wheel of a good one.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £55,000 Good: £80,000 Excellent: £115,500 (1967 Mk3 convertible)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

MODEL HISTORY 1959: Austin-Healey 3000 introduced with 124bhp 2.9-litre inline-six and front disc brakes. Two-seater BN7 and 2+2 BT7 bodystyles offered 1961: Mk2 introduced, with vertical grille design and triple carbs on early cars.

Two-seater BN7 variants are some of rarest, with just 355 made. Gearchange moves to vertical position 1962: M2A with twin carburettors phased in (losing 1bhp but gaining in fuel efficiency) and new folding-hood mechanism introduced 1964: Mk3 (BJ8) arrives with more luxurious interior including wood-veneer trim. Larger twin carburettors and revised camshaft help push power up to 150bhp.

Brake booster becomes standard, and May sees introduction of Phase 2 Mk3 with revised rear suspension 1967: Production comes to an end

SPECIFICATIONS 2.9-litre OHV inline-six Power: 124-150bhp Top speed: 103-125mph 0-60mph: 9.8-12.9 seconds Economy: 22mpg (est.)

60 YEARS

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www.austinhealeyclub.com or call 01270 652084

1996–2002

BMW Z3

Hugely popular in its day, the Roadster and Coupébodied Z3 still makes for an entertaining bargain buy

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HE BMW Z3 HAD A ROUGH time of it when initially launched. One of the first fruits of BMW’s North American labours, built at Spartanburg in South Carolina, it offered a slightly different approach to the roadster formula than the omnipresent Mazda MX-5.

It was upmarket, if not quite as luxury focused as the Mercedes-Benz SLK, and prioritised secure on-the-limit handling and refinement. Hardcore-driving ‘gods’ saw this as a stick to beat the car with, but nevertheless buyers flocked to BMW showrooms to buy Z3s. A multitude of 62

engines found their way under the BMW’s long bonnet, beginning with a 16v 1.9-litre four-cylinder boasting 136bhp, which was later joined by a 186bhp 2.8-litre straightsix, with a five-speed manual or automatic.

In 1999 the 1.9-litre became a 1.9 8v engine (114bhp), while the 1.9 16v motor was replaced with a 2.0-litre six-cylinder engine with 146bhp. A year later the latter was replaced with a 168bhp 2.2-litre sixpot. Meanwhile, the 2.8-litre six-cylinder was replaced with a 3.0-litre version with 225bhp. The 2.8 had a wider rear track than the 1.9, as well as more toys such as an electrically operated hood and leather

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

seats, with air-conditioning an option.

The top-of-the-tree car was the Z3M and Z3M Roadster, which used the BMW M3 engine, in E36 and E46 form. For the purposes of this buying guide, we’ll be focusing on the non-M cars.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Four-cylinder cars that throw an enginewarning light may be suffering from a failed Lambda sensor, and if the starter motor is in poor form it’s an expensive job to put right. The oil-filter housing on both four pots can also leak. The thermostat lasts for around 60,000 miles, but can stick open; also check the housing, radiator and top hose connection. The fan coupling will need replacing at 80k miles.

Head-gasket failure has been known on 1.9s, but this is largely down to poor maintenance and is a relatively easy fix.

Similarly, rectifying a faulty water pump is a simple job, while a blowing exhaust manifold (pipe-to-flange joint on the cylinder head) can be removed and welded.

The 1.9 8v is more prone to head-gasket failure, and issues with the crank and cam

BUYING GUIDE

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The Z3 uses E36 3-series front suspension, with the rear semi-trailing-arm set-up of the E30 version. Given the mass-market nature of the system, it is relatively simple, robust and easy to deal with, other than replacing the ball-joints (which requires a particular tool) and the outer-beam bushes

‘Running a Z3 is a largely simple affair, and it’s a genuinely usable car that could be pressed into daily service’

in the rear axle, which is a specialist job.

Worn-out front dampers are the most common complaint, along with rusty front wishbones and trailing arms. The braking system is robust, but rusty pipes, faulty ABS sensors and dodgy handbrakes are all common yet simple to fix.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Even after 25-plus years, the outer body should hold up well. If there are any major visible issues, start to question the car’s prior relationship with the scenery, and how well it’s been fixed. That said, rust has been seen around the boot lock, mirror bases, door bottoms and sills. The wings are beginning to show corrosion, but these are bolt-on, bolt-off items.

Corrosion is more common under the skin, with differential and rear-subframe mounts susceptible to rot.

The interior itself is fairly solid, but there are a few items to check. The steering lock can become worn, meaning you get ‘key spin’, although this is simple to fix. Central-locking problems are likely to be due to faulty door locks and car alarms, which are best removed, while worn runners can cause the seats to move backwards and forwards when you don’t want them to. This is cheaply fixed.

Hood seals can leak (a dab of Vaseline helps keep the rubber fresh), and latches can wear out. Replacement tops and plastic rear screens are available.

WHICH TO BUY The Z3 might not be quite as exotic, or as adrenaline charged, as some rivals, but these negatives can be seen as a positive.

Firstly, the ubiquity of the base materials means that running one is a largely simple affair, and it’s a genuinely usable car that could be pressed into daily service.

If used like this, the frugal and fun 1.9 makes sense, but if you’re looking for a weekend toy, the bigger-engined sixcylinders provide a far richer experience.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £4000 Good: £6000 Excellent: £9000 (1998 2.8 Roadster)

BMW

sensors, plus the electronic idle valve on the inlet manifold, are indicative of this.

While the six-cylinder engines were known for their Nikasil linings flaking off the cylinder bores, causing compression loss, these should have been replaced under warranty. In 1998, the six-pot motors were upgraded to steel bore liners, double VANOS (variable engine timing) and a new ECU. The VANOS unit can wear, though, and if it hasn’t been replaced by now, it’ll need doing due to age. Oil leaks from the gaskets for the cam cover and filter housing are common.

The later 2.2- and 3.0-litre engines are known to use more oil, and the crankcaseventilation system’s plastic pipes will be due replacement by now, if they’re still original. Water pumps are a known failure point, but are easy to replace.

The five-speed manual ’box used in the 1.9 and 2.0 cars is a robust Getrag item, although if it’s feeling a little floppy the gear linkage bushes may need replacing.

The automatic ’box is from GM and is reliable; any problems are usually caused by a faulty ABS or engine sensor.

Although the transmissions on the larger-engined cars are reliable, the diffs are getting on a bit now and can start to whine. They’re cheap to replace, however.

Z3 was a success when it was launched for the 1996 model year, and it’s desirable now.

MODEL HISTORY 1995: Production begins for 1996 model year, initially with 1.9-litre 16v (M44) 1997: Z3 M Coupé and M Roadster versions launched; 2.8-litre straight-six (M52) version introduced 1998: Coupé versions of ’normal’ Z3 introduced. Hardtop shell option available. Roll-over hoop introduced 1999: Range facelifted; aesthetic changes inside and out. 2.0-litre straight-six (M52) joins range 2000: 1.9-litre 8v (M43) replaces 1.9-litre 16v four-cylinder; 2.0-litre six replaced by 2.2 (M54B22); 2.8-litre replaced by 3.0 (M54B30) 2001: Z3M engine replaced with E46 M3-spec six-cylinder engine 2002: Production ceases

SPECIFICATIONS 1.9-litre inline-four (16v) Power: 138bhp Top speed: 127mph 0-60mph: 9.5 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

2.8-litre straight-six Power: 189bhp Top speed: 135mph 0-60mph: 6.5 seconds Economy: 25mpg (est.)

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2003–2008

BMW Z4 and Z4 M

This flame-surfaced Z3 successor was the sledgehammer to the Boxster’s scalpel – and the last time we saw the S54 straight-six

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RETTY THOUGH IT WAS, the BMW Z3 was no match for Porsche’s Boxster, even with the M Division’s involvement.

Yet the roadster market proved buoyant enough into the 2000s for a successor to be penned. The E85 Z4 was born: three times stiffer than its predecessor, and with a range of six-cylinder engines, it was less of an upmarket MX-5 alternative and

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more a serious contender for the Boxster.

UK sales began in March 2003 with a pair of six-pots on offer – a 2.5 and a 3.0-litre, drawn from the maker’s well regarded M54 family as previously used in the Z3. By September, a smaller M54 engine became available – the 2.2-litre variant that would live for three years.

Meanwhile, Alpina built the Roadster S, which previewed the return of the E46

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

M3’s S54 straight-six in the Z4 M Roadster and Coupé, by then three years away.

Alpina didn’t do things by halves, however, as it took the 3.2-litre S54 out to 3.4 litres with an uprated crankshaft and pistons; an uprated cylinder head let the already free-spinning unit breathe even better. So far, so E46 Alpina B3 – but in an unusual move the brand dropped its accustomed, beloved ZF switchable automatic in favour of a six-speed manual from the same maker. A special bodykit, Alpina pin-stripe detailing and 18-inch wheels completed the transformation; 167 right-hand-drive cars were produced.

With a range facelift but a year away, the sole four-cylinder Z4 made its debut in 2005, using the 2.0-litre N46. 2006 was the Z4’s busiest year – not only did a Coupé (E86), styled by Tomasz Sycha, join Anders Warming’s Roadster, but it could be bought as a non-M badged model. A 3.0-litre was available alongside the M Coupé; ‘cooking’ Z3 Coupés were not offered to UK buyers.

Both of the M Division cars, in E85 (Roadster) and E86 (Coupé) form, won

BUYING GUIDE

a new pan would be needed, because the filter is part of the pan. Gearbox maker ZF recommends the auto is serviced every 50,000 miles, but BMW put a sticker on the ’box saying that it’s ‘sealed for life’.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

“The Z4 M powerplants are mostly bulletproof,” says Richard Smith, service manager at Mtek Automotive Technology (www.mtekautomotive.co.uk). “If they’re serviced and maintained correctly, they go on for far longer than people seem to think. The internet talks about conrod bearings failing, but it’s not something they generally do – unlike in newer BMWs.” Ensure the service history shows that the valve clearances have been checked at the correct intervals, too. Richard also recommends oil changes every 12 months (or 10,000 miles): “BMW’s scheduling is something crazy like 16,000-18,000 miles – which is too long, in our opinion.”

The four-cylinder cars are something of a liability, thanks to issues with timing chains and injectors, oil-stem valve steals, piston rings and fuel pumps, to name but a few of the breakages reported.

It’s better news with the M54 and N52 sixes, however; rocker covers can leak, resulting in hot-oil smells wafting into the cockpit. The same can happen if variable valve timing motor seals go pop; neither costs much to rectify. The biggest failing on the earlier engines is DISA valves (Differenzierte Sauganlage/Differentiated Intake System), a part that controls which path inlet air takes into the manifold. If the engine misses slightly or feels sluggish low down, the valve is the likely culprit, but replacements are plentiful and cheap.

Post-2006 N52 sixes have an electric water pump that can give out at 60,000 miles. If their hydraulic valve lifters clatter when the engine has built up oil pressure after start-up, look elsewhere. It’s not terminal, but it is a lot of work to put right.

Richard also takes issue with BMW’s assertion that the ’boxes and diffs were ‘sealed for life’: “100,000 miles is basically BMW’s ‘lifetime’,” he says. On automatics, check that the plastic sump-pan filter has been changed: “Someone like us would offer to replace it, but the dealer wouldn’t;

Rear coils can break on the Z4 M: “They’re putting more power through everything,” Richard says. Back brake pipes on older Z4s, especially from 2003-2004, can start to corrode and may cause an MoT failure.

“Surface corrosion to suspension components will only be at the rear of the car, around the control arms and subframe. A lot of the parts at the front are aluminium,” explains Richard.

BMW

critical acclaim. Their hydraulic steering replaced the electric assistance seen in other Z4s, while they saw a return of the S54 from the E46 M3. A six-speed manual was the only gearbox available.

Whether Coupé or Roadster, and with a variety of engines, the Z4 has plenty to offer.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR

MODEL HISTORY

“Unless they’ve spent time in parts of Scotland or their entire life by the sea, the Z4 doesn’t seem to corrode,” says Richard.

Interiors wear well, but there are some long-term issues with hood operation: “We’ve seen problems with water getting into the back of the car, in the ‘bag’ where the motor sits. Often, as part of a service, we’ll ask to clear out the drains that sit at the bottom of the roof to allow the water to escape,” says Richard. “If this gets above the level of the motor, it’ll destroy the unit – and replacing the motor means the hood has to come off. It’s a big job.”

2003: Z4 Roadster launches, with 2.5- and 3.0-litre engines

WHICH TO BUY “The six-cylinder cars are a better bet than the four-cylinders,” advises Richard.

“That smaller engine isn’t a good one.”

His preference would be for a pre-facelift 3.0-litre car that uses the M54 engine, owing to their blend of durability and performance and residual value. “The Z4 Ms aren’t bad, but things wear out quicker and their prices have shot up,” he says.

“I would prefer a manual 3.0, but the automatics aren’t bad,” he adds. “It’ll cost you more money in maintenance because of the sump-pan filter – you’d have to factor that in, because if you want to look after it you’d need to service the auto ’box more often as well as the engine. The manual needs the oil draining at intervals, costing about £80. An auto sump-pan filter service is between £300-400.”

2003: 2.2-litre straight-six from M54 family added; 3.4-litre Alpina Roadster S launches with six-speed ZF manual ’box (167 built in right-hand drive) 2005: 2.0-litre four-cylinder model launches, with N46 engine 2006: Facelift for range, with N52 2.5and 3.0-litre engines replacing earlier M54 equivalents; 2.2-litre M54 engine dropped altogether. E86 Coupé released using N52 3.0. Z4 M Roadster and Z4 M Coupé debut with 338bhp 3.2-litre S54 engine from E46 M3 paired with hydraulic steering and six-speed manual gearbox.

Alpina Roadster S production ends 2008: E89 Z4 replaces E85/E86 series Z4 and all variants, including Z4 M Roadster

SPECIFICATIONS 3.2-litre straight-six (Z4 M) Power: 338bhp Top speed: 155mph (limited) 0-60mph: 5.0 seconds Economy: 25mpg INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £12,000 Good: £18,000 Excellent: £25,000 (Z4 M)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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BUYING GUIDE

1973–PRESENT

Caterham Seven “Simplify, then add lightness,” said Colin Chapman – and his mantra is alive and well in Caterham’s finest

I

N 1970, COLIN CHAPMAN HAD his eyes on the future, taking on Europe’s most esteemed supercars.

By 1972 that dream started to crystallise with the Giugiaro-penned Esprit. However, to move the company on meant ditching the Lotus kit-car image – and the Seven, dating back to 1957, was no longer a part of the firm’s future.

In 1973 Caterham Cars of Surrey picked up the rights from Lotus, and it has been producing the model ever since. The first examples were effectively the left-over Series IV (S4) cars produced by Lotus.

A departure from earlier models, it was boxy, larger, better equipped and more stylised. The 1970s design did little to broaden the Seven’s market appeal, however, and it didn’t prove popular with enthusiasts. Therefore, once the supply of Series IV cars ran dry, Caterham started producing the Series III (S3) once

again, making gradual improvements as production went on.

The S3 still forms the basis of the standard Caterham chassis today, although a larger SV chassis is now also available. Wide-ranging changes have been made to the Seven over the years, to the extent that not a single part of the modern car is shared with the original.

However, the DNA of the very first Lotus Seven has remained consistent.

Andy Noble from Sevens & Classics (www.sevensandclassics.com) explains the appeal: “The Seven may not do many things, but what it does do, it does better than any other car. And that is just as applicable today as it was when the model was created back in the 1950s.

“As cars progress in safety, technology and performance, they inevitably gain weight, and that’s where the Seven scores its points. It’s merely a case of easy

physics; the lighter the car, the easier it will accelerate, turn and stop. It’s a pretty simple principle, really.”

CATERHAM, MAGIC CAR PICS

ENGINE

There’s little to go wrong in the sparse interior, but do check the seat base and bolsters for wear.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

Many makers have seen their powerplants grace the Caterham Seven’s engine bay over the years. Four-cylinder units from the likes of Rover, Ford and Vauxhall are most often used. Regardless of the origin, check that the motor has been properly maintained – especially if the car has spent a lot of time on track. Circuit work is what the Seven is designed for, so it shouldn’t put you off as long as the maintenance schedule has been stringently adhered to.

Rover K-series engines can suffer from head-gasket leaks, but these aren’t an issue

‘It’s a case of easy physics; the lighter the car, the easier it will accelerate, turn and stop.

It’s pretty simple’

if addressed early. However, such problems aren’t overly prevalent in the Seven – the MGF’s motors were more notorious for this thanks to inadequate cooling.

Regardless of mileage, oil changes should be done annually. Reduce this to every 1000-1500 miles if the car is being used on track. Noisy tappets in K-series cars can be indicative of oil starvation by hard use on the circuit, or could also be caused by oil foam blocking the feed pipe.

The engines are relatively unstressed, thanks to a mere 500kg bodyweight to haul around, meaning reliability is strong.

GEARBOX All ’boxes are manual, and are either a Ford T9 five-speed or a Caterham-developed

six-ratio. Early Sevens came with fourspeed units, while some Caterhams have Honda or Suzuki motorcycle engines with corresponding bike gearboxes, which means sequential shifting. These are great on track, but unrefined for road use and very loud if they have a mechanical reverse gear installed. The Ford T9 is a cost-effective and durable unit, yet the six-speeder is more desirable and gets the most from the Seven’s small engine.

Gearbox issues are uncommon thanks to the car’s low weight; even when under duress the transmissions aren’t worked hard. Check for all the usual things such as a precise, crisp change and that the clutch biting point isn’t too close to the floor. Crunching into gears can indicate

worn synchros. The car’s lack of sound deadening and the sparse cabin mean there is noticeable transmission noise from the central tunnel.

If you’re told a potential purchase has a limited-slip differential, check to ensure it’s present. Jack up the back of the car and turn a rear wheel; the other rim will turn in the same direction if an LSD is installed.

Later cars with a Titan LSD have internal carbon plates fitted, which can fail.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Thanks to the car’s low weight, discs and pads last a very long time, even if used on track. Uneven tyre wear points to misaligned suspension, to which a Seven’s handling is very sensitive. Classic models

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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MODEL HISTORY 1973: Caterham Cars starts producing Seven, after buying rights from Lotus 1982: Silver Jubilee celebrates 25 years 1985: De Dion rear end replaces live axle 1986: Seven HPC launched with 170bhp Cosworth BDR, most powerful unit so far 1992: 35th Anniversary released. Base Classic introduced. Jonathan Palmer Evolution (JPE) also brought to market; breaks production-car 0-60mph record 1993: Caterham produces six-speed ’box 1996: Caterham Superlight introduced and cars fitted with motorcycle engines have live rear axles; the rest have semiindependent de Dion rear ends.

“CSR models feature inboard pushrod front suspension and a fully independent double-wishbone set-up at the rear,” says Andy. “Front wishbones can corrode, but it is only aesthetic, and structural corrosion is very rare.”

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Glassfibre and aluminium make up most of the panels, so they are not vulnerable to rust. Corrosion can still occur where the aluminium panels and steel chassis rails meet, however. Paint is also known to bubble on the lower skins, indicating underlying issues. Suspension components underneath commonly corrode, too. Aim to get any prospective purchase in the air so that you can take a good look underneath. While the low ride height of the Seven means it can be driven under parking barriers, this also means it is vulnerable to scraping from speed humps.

If you’re of a larger build, wider and longer SV cars are the best choice. This spec is a £2500 option new: “It can add up to £1500 on a used car over the S3,” says Andy.

Given that there’s not very much in the interior, there’s little to go wrong. Seat condition is worth checking, as bolsters can wear. Some owners climb in by standing on the base, so check here, too.

The windscreen surrounds (if they’re present) are also subjected to wear, 68

because people often use them for support when accessing the cabin. Some cars came optioned with lower floors for tall drivers; that extra depth can be well worth having.

WHICH TO BUY Think about how you intend to use the car, and work it out from there. Searching for hardcore track-day thrills? Then the R models will provide plenty of adrenaline.

If looking for some breezy weekend fun or something to tour in, the S, Roadsport, Classic and Sprint models will suffice.

If you’re on the larger side, a car in the larger SV specification might be essential.

As mentioned, the lower floor specced in some cars is also a worthwhile option.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £12,400 Good: £17,600 Excellent: £24,600 (1985 Seven Roadster)

SPECIFICATIONS Ford inline-four (1700 Super Sprint) Power: 135bhp Top speed: 111mph 0-60mph: 5.9 seconds Rover K-series 1.8-litre inline-four (Roadsport) Power: 122bhp Top speed: 118mph 0-60mph: 5.8 seconds

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1997: 192bhp Superlight R released 1999: R500 made available. Breaks Nordschleife production-car lap record 2000: Seven SV and Blackbird launched.

Latter has Honda motorcycle engine 2002: Caterham Cars starts partnership with MG Rover. Revised Classic and Superlight get MG XPower engines 2003: Roadsport SV 30 and Tracksport 2004: New R500 Evo achieves 0-100mph and 0-60mph records. New CSR uses Cosworth Ford Duratec engines 2006: R400 uses state-of-art build methods 2007: Roadsport 150 has Ford Sigma motor. Optional 50th-anniversary bodykit 2008: R500 put back into production with Duratec 2.0 engine. Top Gear Car of Year 2009: Superlight R300 and Roadsport 175 both start production 2010: CSR 175 launched in Europe.

Monaco limited edition 2011: Lola SP/300R unveiled at Autosport show. Supersport special released in UK 2013: 310bhp 620R fastest Caterham yet 2015: Range simplified with five core models: 160, 270, 360, 420 and 620.

Available in R or S trims 2016: 310R replaces 270R. New Sprint 2018: Retro-inspired Supersprint released 2020: Super Seven 1600 unveiled

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BUYING GUIDE

1969–1979

Datsun 240Z and 260Z Porsche performance for MG money – blending style and technical sophistication at a great price point

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wanted a sports car tailored to US tastes.

Katayama and Hara created a new Sports Car Design Studio in 1965, installing arch sports car fan Yoshihiko Matsuo as its head. By 1967 Matsuo had started to produce clays that were winning fans within the company – and management approved the new car for production in November that year. After a gruelling 12-month test programme in the US, the Datsun 240Z – otherwise known as the Datsun Fairlady Z – went on sale in October 1969.

Pitched against tough home-grown competition in the UK, the 240Z, despite its sophistication, was not the bargain it was in the US. Import taxes pushed its price beyond £2000, whereas the likes

MAGIC CAR PICS

UOYED BY THE SUCCESS overseas of its Fairlady 2000 roadster, Datsun knew that a small, six-cylinder sports car would take the US by storm. Brit marques, including MG and Triumph, had the fourcylinder market sewn up, while six-pot offerings were the preserve of Jaguar and Porsche (with a price tag to match).

Domestic sales, unfortunately, weren’t that impressive for either the Fairlady or the exquisite Silvia. Teiichi Hara, head of Nissan’s engineering and development team, knew that US dealers were crying out for a faster six-cylinder coupé to undercut European marques – and that senior exec Yutaka Katayama, head of the firm’s North American import and sales division,

Most trim is available new from the US. Left-hooker dashboards are, too, but not so rhd versions.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

of the MGC, Ford Capri 3000GT, Reliant Scimitar GTE and MGB GT V8 made for a packed marketplace.

Safety legislation, and demands for more space from US buyers, caused the 240Z to pile on the pounds; by 1973, the heavier and more powerful 260Z had taken over across the Atlantic and in Japan. It would be the following year before UK buyers got the wider-tyred, stiffer-sprung 260Z, which was offered not only as a two-seater but also as a 2+2 coupé for the first time. With a foot-longer wheelbase than the 240Z, and a modified roofline, the 2+2 offered rear passengers 33 inches of headroom – but the sleek lines of the Matsuo 240Z had gone.

The Z also inspired ex-Broadspeed

‘Pitched against tough home-grown competition in the UK, the 240Z was not the bargain it was in the US’

engineer Spike Anderson to begin tuning the 240Z (and latterly the 260Z) for fast road, race and rally use. His modifications were sold under the deliberately misspelled Super Samuri nameplate to avoid litigation; Samuri Motor Company converted around 74 cars in period.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Z specialist Fourways Engineering (www. fourwaysgroup.co.uk), based in Kent, is well versed in keeping 240Z and 260Zs on the road: “It depends what market the car is from,” says technician James Carter.

“An imported US car will have a four-ratio gearbox [the five-speeder didn’t go there until 1977, when it was fitted to the 260Z], whereas a British or Australian car will

have a five-speeder, which are better.”

As with the 2.4-litre, L-series engine, both four- and five-ratio units have few weaknesses, and develop problems only if used without maintenance, or abused.

Make sure decent coolant or antifreeze has been used; the Z’s alloy head does not appreciate being run on plain water alone.

“We do rebuild these engines, but it’s mostly down to age,” James says. “The powerplants have no inherent problems and they’re very tuneable.”

Stateside Z models rapidly got more complicated with emissions controls; UK cars kept their licenced SU carburettors, built by Hitachi, which give few issues apart from requiring regular maintenance and adjustment. Parts are hard to source,

so many owners upgrade to Weber equivalents, with better spares support.

It’s also not uncommon for 240Zs to be fitted with later, torquier engines from the 260Z and 280Z (“blocks are a nut-andbolt swap,” says James) or Skyline series – but make sure the work carried out has been declared to the insurance company and done to a good standard.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The twin-pot-caliper front disc brakes give few issues in service; again, upgrades are common, with Z32 300ZX and Skylines being donors.

“Upgrade kits are also available off the shelf,” says James. “They are softly sprung and damped as standard, but

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MODEL HISTORY 1969: Datsun 240Z/Fairlady Z HS30 launches in US and Japan 1970: UK-specification 240Z launched at Earls Court Motor Show. Newcomer tackles RAC Rally, finishing seventh

coil-over upgrades are easily available.”

Try to drive both a standard and a modified car to see which you prefer; if you want to keep the suspension and brakes as Datsun intended, rebuild kits and spares can be tracked down. Bushes and dampers wear out in the course of service, but again, these are available.

Carefully check to make sure mounting points, especially around the front crossmember, haven’t succumbed to rust.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR “They rust everywhere,” James says.

“Because of the values of the cars now, restoration isn’t uneconomic, however.”

While Fourways makes some body panels of its own, such as floor panels, radiator supports, rear valances and sills, front wings are near impossible to source new nowadays, save for a new-old-stock discovery in a dealership or warehouse.

As with front wings, bonnets, tailgates and doors will have to be sourced used, but there is a reasonable market for replacement panels, particularly in the US: “We’ve probably got eight or nine bonnets in stock,” James says. “But getting larger parts over from the US can get quite painful [in terms of postage].”

Other rot-spots worth checking are around the arches, the front crossmember (a downfall of many a UK-based 240Z at MoT time), inner wings, suspension turrets, tailgate-closing aperture and corners of the hatch bootlid itself.

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“These cars had the bare minimum done to keep them roadworthy when they were worthless,” says James. “Now that they’re valuable, we are having to undo a lot of this work.”

He continues: “You can buy most of the interior new from the US, including door cards, seat foam and seat covers, as well as transmission-tunnel vinyls.”

Dashboards, particularly on US imports, can crack, but these can be repaired or replaced; repro left-hooker items can be bought off the shelf, but rhd equivalents will need to be revived or changed.

WHICH TO BUY James would plump for a 240Z over any other HS30-chassised car: “It’s the earliest incarnation of the Z car, and is the most desirable. The 260Z, however, had those few more years of development, and you could argue that it’s a better car.”

Contemporary magazine road tests, while admonishing the 260Z for putting on weight, praised its extra roadholding borne of wider, stickier tyres. They added that the 2.6-litre engine produced a greater spread of torque over a wider rev range than the earlier 2.4-litre unit.

Don’t discount the 260Z 2+2, either, if you’re planning to take family and friends in your new purchase. While the market views these cars as the least desirable (within the remit of this guide) they have two rear seats; the 240Z and 260Z Sports/2-Seaters are just for those up front.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1971: UK sales finally begin in August; five-speed gearbox standard with three-ratio auto as option, circa-£2000 price tag for five-speed car. 240Z places first and second on East African Safari Rally. Seats, centre console and differential revised in October. Styling tweaks see new ’Z’ badge located on C-pillar, replacing earlier chromed ‘Datsun 240Z’ versions 1972: Safety legislation forces larger bumpers onto Z 1973: 240Z wins East African Safari Rally, crewed by Shekhar Mehta and Lofty Drews. Last year of 240Z on sale in UK; Japanese production finishes in September 1974-1976: 2.6-litre, torquier 260Z replaces 240Z in UK, offered as twoseater Sports and rebodied, roomier 2+2 1977: 260Z slightly revised, Sports rebadged 2-Seater; 2+2 remains on sale 1979: HS30 series 240Z/260Z finishes; 280ZX 2+2 (S130, badged ‘Datsun by Nissan’) succeeds 260Z

SPECIFICATIONS 2.4-litre inline-six (240Z) Power: 151bhp Top speed: 125mph 0-60mph: 8.0 seconds Economy: 25mpg INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £8500 Good: £17,000 Excellent: £25,000 (240Z)

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BUYING GUIDE

1975–1989

Ferrari 308 and 328

Classic looks, sonorous V8 and that little yellow Cavallino Rampante badge – the 308 and 328 can still make the heart gallop

T

designed bodywork was much better received than the angular GT4’s.

As the 308 started to wind down its initial production run, a fuel-injection version was offered in the form of the GTBi and GTSi. These were necessary due to emissions regulations. These cars were less powerful than their multi-carb stablemates: 212bhp in Europe.

In 1985 the 328 arrived, looking similar to the 308GTB/GTS but with a smoothed-out body design honed for improved aerodynamic efficiency. The mechanical underpinnings were an evolution of the original 308’s 1970s design, with the V8’s bore increasing to 3.2 litres, producing 270bhp. The 328’s

MAGIC CAR PICS

HINK OF A MID-ENGINED Ferrari and it is hard not to imagine the scissor-sharp styling of the 308 and 328.

These cars laid down a template that’s still seen rolling out of the Maranello gates today, although they weren’t the first to use the moniker – that goes to the indifferently remembered 308GT4 2+2.

The 308GTB was released in 1975, two years into the GT4’s production run.

The ‘308’ part of the cars’ moniker indicated that the same transversely mounted 2.9-litre V8 was present. While the 308GTB/GTS and GT4 shared the same tubular chassis, the GTB/GTS version was shorter, and the Pininfarina-

The cabin is generally robust, but electrical issues are a legacy of haphazard work in the factory.

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‘These cars laid down a template that’s still seen rolling out of the Maranello gates today’

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

interior was now much more modern, while an anti-lock braking system became standard from 1988.

Following on from its 308 predecessor, the 328 was available as both a hardtop coupé GTB model and a targa-top convertible GTS. Out of the two, the GTS versions took the buying public’s fancy far more, and these outsold the GTB variants at a ratio of five to one.

Production of the 328 ceased in 1989.

“Of the two models, the 308 is the more striking, classic 1970s wedge shape,” explains Tim Bates from specialist Emblem Sportscars (www.emblemsports cars.com). “The 328 is more modern and usable; the 308 is like a dainty ballerina, but the 328 is a bit more solid.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Whatever flavour of 308 or 328 you own, cambelt changes should be carried out every two years regardless of mileage.

While the belt is being changed, it’s best to have the clutch and water pump seen to as well. “It’s worth doing the valve adjustments every 6000 miles,” adds Tim. Early 308s had sodium-filled valves, which internet legend says are prone to breakages. That’s not really the case, Tim says: “We’ve seen a lot of 308 engines that have never been apart before – these units are pretty indestructible.”

The 328 models received upgraded multi-valve heads and featured electronic fuel injection as standard, while only the 308GTBi/GTSi and Quattrovalvole

models were so equipped. On all, oil pressure should sit at 85psi on a cold start and 40-45psi at idle when the engine is warm, rising back to 85psi under load.

Oil leaks from the cam cover are common, and can be rectified when the valves and tappets are adjusted (every 15,000 miles). Cam seals are prone to leak in cars that are rarely driven. “Over the past couple of years we’ve started to see the lower cambelt drive bearing starting to fail,” says Tim, who suggests checking it every two years. “It’s a big job to sort out, because the engine needs to be removed and split from the gearbox.”

Oil coolers tend to rot over time as well, he explains: “That’s an expensive fix, because you end up doing the pipes, too.”

As these cars age, cooling hoses are becoming a concern on 328s. “They are starting to crack, perish and leak,” says Tim. “The fuel-tank link pipes are going the same way.”

Front-mounted radiators are known to clog up, so check the cooling system and make sure the fans switch on when required. Setting up the 308’s carbs is a job best left to specialists. Updated 308 ignition packs from 1978-on are better, and a more modern system is an option.

Tim believes the transmissions are incredibly strong. “If the car jumps out of gear, it’s likely to be a worn rubber bush on the linkage,” he says. Avoid second ratio when cold on the five-speed ’boxes.

Synchros can fail over time, but clutches

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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Pininfarina-designed Ferrari 308 boasts a striking, classic 1970s wedge shape, but it feels a little less solid than its more reliable 328 successor.

last 20,000 miles. If the clutch disengages while the pedal’s high, then it’s probably not long for this world. If the shift quality when warm is argumentative, then the clutch may be dying or the slave cylinder could be leaking. Any odd noises during cornering are likely to be a problem with the limited-slip differential: “They corrode and the plates stick together,” says Tim.

the dampers will need replacing. A loosefeeling steering rack means you should inspect the rack and joints for wear. “The grease inside them gets old, which means the rack will need rebuilding,” Tim says.

Brakes are discs front and rear, and seized calipers and rusted discs are the most common issues on lightly used

models. An overhaul is pricey, so make sure the car pulls up straight and the handbrake works correctly. “The ABS pumps on so-equipped 328s are getting old,” warns Tim. “They’re becoming slow and start to fail, and it’s an expensive fix.”

Magnesium alloy wheels are known to buckle and corrode, too.

‘328 strikes a good mix of modernity and value, while retaining the 308 lines. They’re also less prone to rust’

Rust is the main concern on the 308 and 328, unless you’ve happened across a rare and expensive 308 Vetroresina (glassfibrebodied) example. Common rot spots are the sills, door bases, footwells, boot floor, and the sunroof and windscreen surrounds.

“Pretty much anything from the black swage line down is a known rust spot,” advises Tim. Blocked drainage holes are a perennial cause of 308 corrosion issues.

Body parts are generally available for

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The suspension set-up is fairly simple, and other than leaking dampers and cracked rubber bushes, there shouldn’t be much cause for concern. Inspect and renew the suspension bushes every 30,000 miles, or sooner if the car hasn’t seen action for a long while.

The Ferrari should seem well planted and solid in the bends, and if there is excessive pitching or body roll it’s likely

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MODEL HISTORY 1975: Ferrari 308GTB launched with glassfibre body and 252bhp 2.9-litre V8, five-speed manual transmission and rear-wheel-drive layout As with its 308 predecessor, the targa-topped 328GTS outsold the GTB variants by five to one.

all variants. Resprays are not uncommon, so check for misaligned pop-up headlights and doors, as well as excessive panel gaps around the bonnet. “The 328’s modular handles tend to corrode and are difficult to fix,” adds Tim. The 328 uses a foam insulation for soundproofing the engine compartment.

“That falls apart and can make even lowmileage cars look scruffy,” says Tim. It’s not available from Ferrari anymore, but Emblem has remanufactured it.

The interior is robust, although GTS models may show more seat wear and tear due to the removable roof section.

Check all the switches and electrics; issues do occur, and the 308’s under-dash wiring was famously haphazard from the factory. That said, check the fusebox for malfunctioning electronics, which should be your first port of call.

“All the controls, switches and grilles are very difficult to get hold of,” says Tim. “The material on the inside, around the rear window, is also scarce.” Finally, ensure the electric windows are not operating at a snail’s pace. “It’s down to the motors not working, but Superformance does a modern replacement,” says Tim.

ensure the car has a solid service history and no big maintenance bills are looming.

The lower-production 308s and early glassfibre cars are very rare and expensive.

308GTBi/GTSi cars were very popular in period, and with such high sales figures these are now less desirable than their predecessors. “My choice is an early nonABS 328,” says Tim. “There are fewer of them, and less to go wrong.”

The 328 strikes a good mix of modernity and value, while retaining the classic 308 lines. They’re also less prone to rust and more reliable than you’d expect of a Ferrari.

WHICH TO BUY

3.2-litre V8 (328) Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

It’s easy to be overawed by the stunning shape, but buy the wrong 308 or 328 and the dream will sour. Take a specialist with you to inspect a potential purchase, and

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SPECIFICATIONS 2.9-litre V8 (308GTB/GTS) Power: 252bhp Top speed: 154mph 0-60mph: 6.0 seconds Economy: 14mpg (est.)

2.9-litre V8 (GTBi/GTSi injection) Power: 214bhp Top speed: 149mph 0-60mph: 7.0 seconds Economy: 26.8mpg (est.)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

270bhp 166mph 5.5 seconds 20.0mpg (est.)

1976: Series 2 cars slightly heavier than Series 1. US models get catalytic converters but still rated at 240bhp 1977: 308GTS targa introduced; all 308 models now have steel body panels 1978: 308GTB Group 4 rally car available 1980: 308GT4 and GTB/GTS end production; 208GTB/GTS 2.0-litre released for Italian market with 153bhp 1981: 308GTBi/GTSi injection cars released, replacing carb-fed GTS/GTB with lower power figures for emissions (212bhp in Europe, 202bhp in US).

208GTB/GTS production ends 1982: 308 Quattrovalvole replaces GTBi/GTSi, upgrading engine to four valves per cylinder (240bhp in Europe, 233bhp in US). 208 Turbo launched with 217bhp. 208GTS/GTB Turbo released with 217bhp 1985: All 308 production ends.

Comprehensively redesigned 328 replaces 308. Changes include new exterior and interior styling, and 270bhp 3.2 litre V8. Chassis now fully galvanised 1988: ABS available as option for 328.

Wheels changed to convex design to accommodate system 1989: 328 production ceases INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £45,000 Good: £54,000 Excellent: £69,000 (1982 308GTS)

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BUYING GUIDE

1994–1999

Ferrari F355 The F355 brought Ferrari back to the peak of the supercar hierarchy in the 1990s, and its appeal remains just as strong today

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and overall reliability mean the F355 is now regarded as the first of the modern mid-engined V8 Ferraris. Even more than 25 years on it can be used regularly without fear of being left stranded by the side of the road in a cloud of expensive smoke. However, F355s need regular love from specialists, and indifferently treated cars can soon garner huge bills.

“It’s a great-handling machine,” says Martin Chatfield of Emblem Sportscars (www.emblemsportscars.com), but for him the F355’s appeal is all about the looks: “With buttresses and everything else, it is pure, classic Ferrari design, harking back to the 308 and 328.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Despite its large power output and highrevving nature, the F355’s 3.5-litre V8 has proven to be robust. It’s not an easy car to

MAGIC CAR PICS

HEN FERRARI’S F355 burst onto the scene in 1994, it felt as though Maranello was reborn.

The 348 isn’t a bad car – certainly not as much as some would have you believe – but the F355 was a massive step forwards in performance and, critically, usability.

Ferrari hadn’t gone soft on us, though; the F355 used a revised flat-planecrank 3.5-litre V8 now developing 375bhp, thanks in part to new five-valve cylinder heads. It performed and sounded like no other V8 Ferrari had done before.

The F355 debuted in Berlinetta and Targa form first, with the convertible Spider following a year later. A six-speed manual was all that was offered at first, but in 1997 a Formula 1-style paddle-shift semi-automatic gearbox became available.

The improvements in both driveability

Leather trim can shrink from exposure to sunlight; only a full retrim can completely rectify this.

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work on, however, because a cambelt replacement requires the engine to come out, although some specialists remove the fuel tank to gain access. “We only do it the correct way – with the engine and the gearbox out – because that’s the way Ferrari designed it to be done,” says Martin. Cambelts last three years or 30,000 miles, whichever comes first, so factor this cost into any purchase.

You’ll find that the exhaust manifolds have already cracked – or they will do at some point. While they can be repaired, aftermarket units are available. Exhaustbypass valves are known to wear out over time. This shows up as a rattle at idle, but replacements are pricey, and because they do not detrimentally affect the

‘Well balanced handling and spine-tingling performance offer a uniquely immersive drive’

performance, some owners live with it.

In 1996 the ECU was upgraded from Motronic 2.7 to 5.2. Some specialists say the earlier cars produced slightly more power, but this should not dissuade you from considering later models, as the differences are minimal. Pre-1999 cars were recalled as a prevention against fuel-pipe manifold leaks. Martin again: “The fuel pipes are braided stainless steel, but the end of the fuel line can crack because it’s aluminium.”

The six-speed manual gearbox is robust, although rattling from the transmission is likely to need a new gearlever-housing bush. The F1 ’box is similarly strong, but clutches don’t last quite as long if the car does a lot of city miles. Their life can be improved by double-declutching when the

engine is cold and never leaving the car in gear when waiting at traffic lights.

“Both gearboxes use a hydraulically operated clutch,” Martin explains. “This and fluid leaks are the big problems. F1 transmission clutch life depends on use, and varies between 15k and 30k miles. A manual clutch will last around 30k miles.”

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Martin says the suspension is pretty robust. However, the adaptive-damping system can fail – look out for a dashboard warning light telling you there’s something wrong, which is usually down to a failure in the gears or motors. Replacements are relatively easy to source, but any leaks from the dampers will mean a full

replacement at a cost of around £1200 each. Broken springs are common, and the handbrake cable is known to seize.

“Brakes can be left a bit wanting if used spiritedly on track or in, say, the Alps – especially compared with more modern Ferraris,” Martin says. “The magnesium wheels suffer from corrosion – they’re expensive to treat and re-finish.”

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The steel rear cradle holding the engine is a favourite place for corrosion to creep in – shine a torch down around the engine bay to see whether rot has taken hold. On Berlinettas and Targas the rear buttresses tend to corrode over time, and bubbling paint is a sure sign that a repair is on the

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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Model was made available as a Berlinetta, Targa and Spider; just over 11,000 were built.

cards. This issue tends to resurface, so check if and when work was last carried out – specialists say it’ll need looking at every five years or so, depending on use.

Martin reckons the GTS is more at risk, because it flexes a bit more than the GTB. Sill plates tend to corrode on all but the most pampered cars. Both factory and aftermarket items are readily available.

Inside, the dashboard and seat leather can suffer from shrinkage when exposed to the sun for extended periods. Sadly, not much other than a full retrim can be done to rectify this. The centre console has a plastic covering that tends to get sticky with age. The best solution is to peel off this layer, as replacement parts from Ferrari are prohibitively expensive. “A few specialists can recondition the plastics, but if you have to get the entire interior done it could cost £3000,” Martin says.

The Spider’s electrically operated roof is a complex unit, and hydraulic-pump failure is a known issue and costly to sort out. Seat potentiometer issues are more common, but thankfully less pricey to fix. The potentiometers usually detect when the seats have moved forward, but will stop the roof from going up if they are faulty.

“The hydraulic rams in the roof can leak and refuse to work,” says Martin, adding that you should budget £1000£1500 for a replacement set. “The roof canvas itself is becoming a problem, and rear plastic screens are turning brittle – finding replacements is tricky.”

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WHICH TO BUY The F355 represents a stunning return to form for Ferrari, but it also marks the end of the Fioravanti styling theme going back to the 308 – the 360 was an entirely clean-sheet design. As such, it’s a high point in Ferrari’s line of mid-engined V8s – one look at its gorgeous profile and hearing its evocative exhaust note make arguing otherwise very difficult.

Given the emotive pull, it’s best to go into any F355 purchase with a clear head and a specialist inspection in your back pocket – the cheapest F355 could very well end up being the most expensive when trying to fix everything.

Manual Berlinettas are the most soughtafter models, and as a result command elevated prices over the F1-gearbox cars.

“I’d go for a later 5.2 Motronic ECU car with a manual in either Berlinetta or Targa form,” advises Martin. “There are fewer issues, and the manual ’box makes any drive more of an occasion.”

Getting behind the wheel of any well maintained F355 should be an absolute joy. With well balanced handling and spine-tingling performance, it all comes together to offer a uniquely analogue and immersive driving experience.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £50,000 Good: £62,000 Excellent: £69,000 (1999 GTB manual)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

MODEL HISTORY 1994: Ferrari F355 released in Berlinetta and Targa bodystyles to replace 348 1995: Convertible Spider added 1995: F355 Challenge introduced for single-model Ferrari Challenge racing series; road legal for 1995 model year only 1996: ECU updated. Airbag now incorporated into steering wheel 1997: Formula 1-style automated manual gearbox offered across range.

‘F’ dropped from name, with cars now simply being called 355 1999: 355 Spider Fiorano limited-edition model built (100 units), with competitionspecification steering rack and brakes 1999: 355 production ends, with just over 11,000 units built in total

SPECIFICATIONS 3.5-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

375bhp 183mph 4.6 seconds 20mpg

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BUYING GUIDE

1999 –2005

Ferrari 360 Modena

‘The exhaust note from the V8 and the sound of the manual gearbox through the gate are legendary’

Replacing the F355 was a hard task, but the 360 made a great case for itself – and it is fashionable once again

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OW DO YOU REPLACE A Ferrari as universally adored as the F355? Revolution is the answer – and the 1999 360 Modena was a complete break from a styling tradition dating back to the 1970s.

The Millennial Ferrari was here.

It sported a new, all-aluminium chassis, an electronically controlled suspension system and an advanced aerodynamic body. The 3.6-litre V8 was a development of the 3.5 unit found in the F355, and in standard form it produced 395bhp, swelling to 420bhp in the stripped-out 2003 Challenge Stradale. Between those two extremes was a Spider released in 2000. No targa top was offered this time.

The roll-out of the Formula 1-style

electro-hydraulic manual gearbox was in full swing by this point, so fewer than 30 percent of owners specified the sixspeed manual alternative.

While the 360 Modena introduced Ferrari owners to new levels of reliability and usability, the early cars did have some teething troubles nevertheless. As a consequence several potential pitfalls remain, but the better news is that prices have yet to soar into the stratosphere.

“It’s an iconic shape that’s getting better with age,” says Ashley Osbourne from SportsItalia (www.sportsitalia.co.uk). “It is a great driver’s car – the exhaust note from the naturally aspirated V8 and the sound of the manual gearbox through the gate are legendary.”

MAGIC CAR PICS

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

Leather side bolsters show wear first. Switches and buttons may eventually need a refurb, too.

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“They’re a very good car engine-wise, but make sure the cambelts have been done,” advises Ashley. “Sometimes the inlet-manifold butterfly rattles, and if the engine ECU has a problem they’re like hen’s teeth to find a replacement.”

Powerplants are robust and benefit from regular use. Electrics can become damaged if batteries run flat, so a decent trickle charger is a worthwhile investment.

The dreaded, labour-intensive engineout cambelt change that plagued earlier mid-engined Ferraris doesn’t apply here, and the resultant time saving greatly lowers overall maintenance costs. Budget on replacing the belt every three years.

Noisy tappets are normal when cold; if

they persist, then it may be worth getting the engine inspected. Gaskets and cam covers can weep oil, so check for any leaks.

Regular oil changes, every 6000 miles or annually, are vital. Hesitation at higher revs may suggest faulty ignition coils.

Early cars suffered from premature camvariator failure. All should have been sorted at dealer level, but if you’re looking at a pre2001 car ensure this has been attended to.

Both the manual and F1 automated ’boxes tend to be reliable if cared for. A single-plate clutch was used on both and lasts up to 30,000 miles. The F1 works well when driven hard, but can be jerky around town and the clutch wears out far quicker with extended use in stop-start traffic.

Manuals are better in this regard, but

worn linkages can make it difficult to change between second and third gears.

F1 ’boxes can leak from the hydraulic actuators, and damaged transmission mounts can cause changes to crunch.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES “Most of the 360’s issues concern the suspension set-up,” Ashley says. “Top and bottom ball-joints are very common problem areas, as are rear tie rods, front and rear. Hill Engineering produces upgraded ball-joints that last a long time.”

You can expect the units to last around 10,000 miles – knocking noises over bumps indicate that replacement is due.

Modena and Spider models have steel brake discs and adaptive dampers. Both

are hard wearing and should be relatively trouble free. If the steering wheel shudders under braking, the discs may be warped.

Challenge Stradale cars came with carbon-ceramic discs, which should last an extremely long time. “I’ve been doing this 19 years and I’ve never changed ceramic discs for wear,” says Ashley. CS cars also came with 19-inch alloys, which can be retrofitted to the standard Modena, but at the sacrifice of ride quality. “If you put the CS wheels on, you have to also use the titanium bolts,” Ashley adds.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The 360 featured an aluminium bodyshell, but corrosion can still occur around the windscreen, side repeaters, centre of the

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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MODEL HISTORY 1999: New Ferrari 360 Modena coupé features all-aluminium design and updated 395bhp 3.6-litre V8. Six-speed manual and six-speed Formula 1-style automated manual ’box options available 2000: Ferrari 360 Spider released, mechanically identical to Modena, with electrically folding soft-top and chassis reinforcement adding 59kg to overall weight. 360 Modena Challenge introduced for one-make racing series nose and blocked drainage holes. ‘You can sometimes see it where the rear sideskirts meet the back quarter panel,” Ashley says.

The front bumpers tend to suffer from pitting due to stones, so some owners have applied a plastic protective film over the car’s nose to avoid a costly respray.

The Challenge Stradale’s carbonfibre bonnet may be pricey to repair if damaged.

Inside, the leather seats tend to look good for years, other than the side bolsters, which show wear first. Some switches and buttons can start appearing tired over time. “The 360 can have sticky buttons – we remove them and send them to Poland for refinishing,” Ashley says.

“It’s a two-grand job for the entire interior.”

Challenge Stradales offered far fewer luxuries, while Perspex windows and carbonfibre-backed manual sports seats were standard fitment. These last items were optional on the Modena and Spider.

Spiders feature an electrically operated fabric roof; a little stretching of the material occurs over time, but tears or worn areas are of more concern. Faulty mechanisms are generally down to damaged sensors or microswitches. “Roof elastics can also go, which causes the plastic rear screen to fold in,” Ashley says.

“Nothing is an easy fix with a faulty roof.”

INSURANCE

WHICH TO BUY

AND AGREED

With genuine day-to-day driveability, contemporary performance levels and a relatively inexpensive entry price, there is

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much to like about the 360. Mileages can be a bit higher than in earlier Ferraris, a testament to the increased reliability.

If looking for a manual, you will need patience; the majority of cars came with the F1 ’box. The split between the hardtop Modena and Spider was even, and used values are broadly similar, too. The manual hardtops are still the most desirable of the standard offerings, and can command up to a 30 percent premium. “I’d go for a lowmileage, late, manual Modena,” advises Ashley. “We’re getting to the age where F1 pumps and actuators need expensive replacement. Still, I’m not sure manuals are worth £15,000 more than an F1 car.”

The hardcore Challenge Stradale still offers a much sharper driving experience, especially on track. These are available only with the F1 ’box, but can cost the equivalent of two normal 360s, if not more.

Evidence of regular maintenance and a once-over by a specialist are vital in ensuring that big bills won’t be lurking down the road. The 360 is a great entry point into Ferrari ownership, and it still offers the kind of engaging ownership experience you would expect from the brand – rampant pace, gorgeous looks and a heart-soaring sound from its V8.

VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £45,000 Good: £55,000 Excellent: £65,000 (2002 360 Modena)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

2002: 360 GT introduced – nonroad-legal race car made available to customers who are intending to use them for track events 2003: Limited-edition Challenge Stradale introduced. Changes include standard carbon-ceramic brakes, with extensive weight-saving features such as Perspex windows, Alcantara-covered carbon seats and stripped-out interior resulting in 110kg-lighter kerbweight 2004: 360 GTC replaces 360 GT and remains track-only derivative 2005: Final Ferrari 360 rolls off production line, to be replaced by F430

SPECIFICATIONS 3.6-litre V8 (Modena) Power: 395bhp Top speed: 184mph 0-60mph: 4.3 seconds Economy: 17mpg 3.6-litre V8 (Spider) Power: 395bhp Top speed: 180mph 0-60mph: 4.5 seconds Economy: 17mpg 3.6-litre V8 (Challenge Stradale) Power: 420bhp Top speed: 186mph 0-60mph: 4.0 seconds Economy: 17mpg

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BUYING GUIDE

2004 –2009

Ferrari F430 The F430 heralded the dawn of the modern era for mid-engined V8 Ferraris, and it still looks and drives like a contemporary supercar at a fraction of the cost

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offered from 2007-on and, along with its lighter chassis, power was upped to 503bhp thanks to revised internals. A run of 499 Scuderia Spider 16M models was released the following year to celebrate the F1 constructor’s Championship wins.

“It’s the last Ferrari you could get with a manual gearbox,” says Mike Wheeler of Rardley Motors (www.rardleymotors. com), although he’s keen to point out that the F1 ’box is no poor relation: “People think it is an automatic, but it’s an automated manual box – aside from lowspeed manoeuvring, it works well.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The all-new engine design shared many components with Maseratis. Most service items and parts can be sourced outside the dealer network. A general service is

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE FERRARI F430 WAS A marked step-change in design from the curvaceous 360 Modena. Under the skin the F136 V8 was all new, producing 483bhp from just 4.3 litres. The cambelt that caused so many issues in older V8 Ferraris was finally replaced with a chain, and the far quicker F1 automated transmission lifted performance to new heights.

The 2004 launch cars were Berlinettas, with the Spider arriving the following year. Most customers opted for the much-improved F1 paddle-shift gearbox, although Ferrari offered a traditional gated manual shifter for the last time in a mid-engined V8. Around ten percent of cars are so equipped, and now carry a premium over the F1 examples.

The stripped-down 430 Scuderia was

F430’s interior quality was a big step up from its predecessors’, with far superior build quality.

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recommended every 6250 miles or every year. Make sure the oil has been regularly changed on cars with very low mileages.

The F430 has camchains that should be checked at every service.

“Watch out for cracked manifolds, particularly on cars up to 2007,” says Mike. Although later models featured a modified system, no F430 is immune from the issue. Replacements are readily available, but get a specialist to check your car over as identifying a cracked manifold by sound alone requires a trained ear – although Mike says a slight ticking sound might indicate that a weld is cracking. Fail to spot it, and you run the risk of the bits being sucked into the engine, with horrific consequences for both it and your wallet.

‘As long as the service history is sound, this could be a cost-effective way to Ferrari ownership’

The original exhaust-mounting brackets can crack, and catalytic converters have also been known to break up inside their casings. Some owners fit aftermarket manifold and exhaust systems to avoid potential issues later on. Engine mounts are known to crack, too and while parts are reasonable, it is a labour-intensive fix.

The paddle-shift gearbox was a big improvement over the earlier versions, and most customers chose this set-up.

You can expect 16,000 miles between clutches, although the transmission-fluid change is equally critical every three years. Air ingress into F1 ’box gubbins can cause selection problems, and a new F1 pump is the usual fix. While you’re doing it, it’s worth fitting a later, much-improved

version. F1 actuators can also fail, which is a £6000 replacement. Manual clutches last 20,000 to 30,000 miles, although figures for both the F1 and three-pedalled cars will drop with extensive track action.

While the E-diff is pretty rugged, damaged solenoids can disable the system. Replacing them isn’t too tricky for a skilled owner, however.

A recall was issued to rectify an issue with leaky clutch master cylinders, which could cause gear-selection issues. Remove the undertray to see whether any fluid is dripping out of the actuator.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Carbon-ceramic brakes were an option up until late 2007, and became standard

from then on. Both set-ups should provide hassle-free service, although long periods of disuse can seize the caliper pistons.

Look out for a hard brake pedal and poor stopping performance. Carbon-ceramic brake discs should last for a very long time, but beware that the pads do cost more to replace than the combined price for standard steel discs and pads.

The suspension features a complex arrangement of bearings, bushes and dampers that are known to wear out regularly. Factory replacement parts can be costly, and many specialists offer upgraded components with an extended service life. According to owners, lowering the suspension or fitting larger-diameter wheels can upset the balance of the car

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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FERRARI

Spider version is popular, but Berlinetta has the much-loved see-through engine cover.

and cause accelerated component wear.

“Ball-joints should be viewed as a consumable item,” Mike says. With lowprofile rubber, large-diameter alloy rims and stiff suspension, bent or damaged wheels are common.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The F430 has a predominantly aluminium bodyshell, which means rust is not an issue. However, corrosion can still occur in areas where the paint has been chipped away by stones or scratches.

Check around the wheelarches, window surrounds and front bumper for a bubbling paint finish. The rear buttresses can also exhibit signs of corrosion.

The F430’s cabin was a big step up from those of its F355 and 360 predecessors, and the build quality is far superior. Most of the materials and surface coverings wear well and should not show any signs of excessive wear and tear. “F430s do suffer from sticky switches, which just needs cleaning off,” says Mike.

Door handles can sometimes work loose and the mechanism may require retightening. Electronics are more reliable than in earlier Ferraris, too, but a nearly flat battery can cause intermittent issues.

Check the soft-top alignment on Spiders; if the frame is bent or damaged, the roof can become stuck. The fabric top should be in near-perfect condition, and if there’s wear or tear then factor this into your haggling. Repairs are expensive.

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WHICH TO BUY The F430 is a fantastic modern classic offering serious pace and daily usability.

Good reliability and few inherent issues mean there are a few out there with higherthan-expected mileage, but as long as the service history is sound, this could be a cost-effective way to Ferrari ownership – especially if it is a left-hand-drive example.

Be wary of cars with multiple owners and patchy maintenance, because repairs are predictably costly. Do have a specialist give your potential purchase a once-over.

Ferrari got the F430 right from the beginning, so you don’t need to avoid the early cars. The usual red/cream colour combo is the most popular, while the rare manuals can command a £10,000 price premium over the F1-equipped models.

“Although manuals are worth more, F1 cars are worth a look,” says Mike. “Those gearchanges really are very exciting.”

The Scuderia and especially the limitededition Spider 16M have long commanded stratospheric prices, and while they do offer a more intense driving experience, few owners actually drive them. If you intend to use your F430, stick to the regular Berlinetta or Spider – you’ll hardly feel short-changed as you hit 7000rpm and beyond…

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £65,000 Good: £85,000 Excellent: £95,000 (2006 F430 F1)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

MODEL HISTORY 2004: Ferrari F430 Berlinetta introduced. Six-speed Formula 1-style automated manual gearbox or six-speed manual transmissions available. 4.3-litre 483bhp V8 is all-new design 2005: Mechanically identical F430 Spider launched. F430 Challenge introduced as track-only race car for one-make Ferrari Challenge series 2007: Lighter and faster 503bhp 430 Scuderia arrives. Available only in Berlinetta bodystyle and with paddleshift gearbox. Carbon-ceramic brakes now standard on all models 2008: Spider 16M run limited to 499 units.

Essentially a convertible Scuderia 2009: Production of all derivatives of F430 comes to an end

SPECIFICATIONS 4.3-litre V8 (F430 Berlinetta) Power: 483bhp Top speed: 196mph 0-60mph: 3.7 seconds Economy: 15mpg 4.3-litre V8 (Scuderia) Power: 503bhp Top speed: 203mph 0-60mph: 3.4 seconds Economy: 15mpg

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1972–1989

Fiat/Bertone X1/9 Mid-engined, Gandini-penned motoring for the masses – a decade before the rest of the world got in on the act

engine graced the X1/9 for the first time, and the four-speed gearbox was replaced with a five-ratio unit.

Fiat’s manufacturing of the X1/9 ended in 1982, but by then Bertone had bought the rights to produce the car. It carried on making the X1/9 – suitably badged as a Bertone – until 1989. It made the bodies throughout the X1/9’s life, with cars receiving their running gear at Fiat’s Lingotto factory, several miles away.

In its last year of UK sales, 1500 SEbased Gran Finales were offered.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

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ERTONE NEEDED A CAR TO replace the 850 Spider that it was building for Fiat; worried that the model would soon be outlawed by new roll-over legislation, its fresh proposal, developed with US federal safety measures in mind, would be a targa-topped machine with a removable roof panel, codenamed X1/9.

The X1/9’s nomenclature survived the prototype stage and ended up on the

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finished vehicle. It took until 1976 for righthand-drive X1/9s to become available.

Before that, Italian specialist Radbourne Racing had been converting left-hookers from Europe, which had been on sale since the car went into production in ’72.

With just 75bhp on tap the X1/9 1300 relied on its style and handling, rather than straight-line speed, to appeal to buyers. Things got better in 1979, when the Ritmo/Strada models’ 1500 OHC

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

The Lampredi-designed engines can be very durable, as can the four- and fivespeed ’boxes. Gear selection in an X1/9, as with any mid-engined car, has more at stake than in a front- or rear-wheel-drive model, owing to the convoluted route the linkages travel when operating the trans.

Listen to both the engine and gearbox; the fitted oil-pressure gauges are notoriously unreliable, and a worn ’box will be noisy at idle and when warmed through.

“If they’ve been well maintained and

BUYING GUIDE

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Brace yourself: the rear wheel bearings on the X1/9 are shared with the Lancia Stratos – and priced accordingly.

“They’re very expensive, and if you don’t have the right tool, you or a garage are not getting them out,” says Tony.

Brakes, thankfully, are straightforward.

The master cylinder isn’t very accessible, but the work can all be done.

Everything else is fairly simple, too.

Check for any clunks, and inspect the service history to see if (and when) bushes were replaced. Polyurethane equivalents are available for most of the suspension, and dampers, be they OEM-type oil filled or fully adjustable, are still available.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR “These cars go rotten everywhere; it’s like an iceberg, if you can see rust, there will be another 90 percent that you can’t see,” says Tony. “It wasn’t a high-quality build from Bertone; Pininfarina’s stuff is much better. Panels are expensive, and a lot of the corrosion isn’t obvious.”

Bank on major outlay to put things right, owing to multiple bulkheads and doubleskinned panels; as with any classic, it’s crucial to have an X1/9 inspected on a ramp by someone who knows where to search for hidden rot. Inner arches, all around the suspension mounts, the ‘tub’ around the engine, floorpans, doors – everything is vulnerable.

Replacement panels haven’t been made for years, and any new-old-stock – particularly for the Bertone cars – will, says Tony, “cost an arm and a leg”. The pop-up headlights and door locks can also give trouble if neglected. Ensure the interior of any car you look at is complete, too – replacement trim is non-existent.

Used parts and breakers do exist, luckily; specialists, salvage yards, Italian websites and eBay are your only respite.

WHICH TO BUY “I would go for the latest, newest righthand-drive car I could find,” Tony says.

“Do not get into one on a tight budget. So many were destroyed under the Scrappage Scheme, which denuded us of donors.”

He’s keen to avoid US or Italian imports, owing to previously discussed issues with the cooling system. Body condition takes precedence over mechanicals, although sorting the latter isn’t cheap because few good engines are available. Clubs may be able to locate a working unit, however.

Foreign-market cars also dabbled with fuel injection; X1/9s remained carburetted throughout their life in the UK. Buyers here only got the chance to buy the four-speed 1300 for three years before the five-ratio 1500 took over; these arguably represent a slightly purer driving experience, as their lighter engines are slightly keener to rev.

Debate rages as to whether any of the pre1976 Radbourne Racing rhd conversions still exist – if they did, it would be for a serious collector to consider only.

MAGIC CAR PICS

serviced, they’re very tough engines,” says Tony Castle-Miller, owner of Middle Barton Garage (www.middlebartongarage.com).

“It comes down to how they’re driven. If people let the gear-selection bushes wear out, so the change gets sloppy, and that can affect the internals. Also, the clutches can wear out if they’re not adjusted properly.

“Parts availability and access to the transaxle are poor; gearboxes can be rebuilt, but the process gets expensive and complicated. If too many foreign bodies get into the ’box, it can affect the back axle and differential in terminal cases. There are no new transaxle units – everything has to be rebuilt. Parts are not getting any easier to find, and gearbox bearings are a problem.”

The condition of the cooling system has to be factored in when sizing up a car – the X1/9’s radiator is at the front with a series of pipes circulating coolant to and from the engine. Tony explains: “The pipes that go to the radiator run internally; they’re not underneath the car, they’re through the car – and when they rot, you’ve got problems. If previous owners have always used antifreeze (with corrosion inhibitors), it isn’t an issue.”

However, X1/9s imported from Italy or sunnier parts of the US may never have had decent concentrations of antifreeze through their systems: “They will be corroded to hell,” Tony says. “A good, hot climate may save the body, but it won’t save the cooling system.”

Quirky styling gives the X1/9 great character – but the Italian car is not without its issues.

MODEL HISTORY 1969: Bertone reveals Autobianchi A112 Runabout concept car – midengine roadster powered by Fiat’s 1.3-litre SOHC Lampredi engine used in 128 Rally. The auto manufacturer, keen to replace 850 Spider, options Runabout for further development 1972: Left-hand-drive, four-speed 1300 X1/9 launched 1976: Sales in Britain begin for fourspeed X1/9 1300 1979: X1/9 1500 launched; power up to 85bhp; five-speed gearbox now standard 1982: Fiat winds down X1/9 production, but manufacturing rights are bought

by Bertone. Production continues with Bertone badges replacing Fiat roundels; VS models released, with two-tone paint, alloys, leather trim and electric windows 1988-1989: X1/9 winds down; SE-based Gran Finale editions announced for UK in metallic blue or burgundy paint. In total, 163,750 cars have been produced

SPECIFICATIONS 1.5-litre inline-four (X1/9 1500) Power: 85bhp Top speed: 112mph 0-60mph: 10.4 seconds Economy: 34mpg (est.)

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £3500 Good: £7500 Excellent: £12,000

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1995–2005

Fiat Barchetta

A ‘little boat’ that’s greater than the sum of its parts – and more exclusive than a similarly aged MX-5

limited to trim and facelifts; witness the Limited Edition, Riviera and Milano.

Maggiora’s 2002 bankruptcy curtailed production for nearly two years – but Fiat, while refitting its Mirafiori plant, tweaked the styling and cut the price by nearly £3k; unofficial imports were frequently even cheaper. Less desirable than earlier cars, these are scarcer yet more affordable.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

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T MAY HAVE TAKEN MAZDA to prove that roadsters were viable again in 1989, but European makers had heritage on their side. A glut of simple soft-tops returned to market in the mid-1990s; Fiat joined MG in mining its back catalogue as a means of enticing enthusiasts out of hatchbacks.

Based on the then-current Type 176 (Mk1) Punto floorpan, the Barchetta used that car’s hardware paired with a sole 16v 1.8-litre. Sales projections meant that it remained left-hand drive, even the UK and Irish-spec models. DTR Sports Cars converted six to right-hand drive in period; 94

it was a complicated procedure that sadly priced the Barchetta out of contention.

The Fiat’s styling and detailing pushed it miles ahead of the MX-5; hand-finished by coachbuilder Maggiora, it demonstrated how closely a front-wheel-drive chassis could match the Mazda’s traditional layout for fun and poise. Crucially, it was also rather more affordable. Buyers uncertain of the mid-engined MGF and weary of the MX-5’s familiarity now had a third option.

Coupé and track variants, however, were left on show stands, owing to the threat they posed to the four-pot Fiat Coupé and Alfa GTV. Spec changes were

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

John Cartlidge, owner-founder of Midlands CarServicing(www.midlandscarservicing. com) has fixed countless Barchettas. He says that while the engine is proven in many other Fiat Group models, there is an Achilles’ heel – its variator, which alters the camshaft timing. Symptoms include an uneven idle, poor economy, little low-down power and, most tellingly, a rattling at cold start-up. “Specialists can charge between £500-£900 to do the work,” he says.

In addition, thermostats can stick open and cam covers can leak; neither is too hard to sort. Gearboxes are hardy, but watch out for abuse caused when the car was at the bottom of its depreciation

BUYING GUIDE

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The lightweight Fiat doesn’t overstress its suspension or brakes, but do bear in mind that UK cars had ABS throughout production; certain European parallel imports did not. With all-round discs, braking should be strong and responsive.

Check for any front-end clonks on a test drive. John says: “Wear is confined to aged dampers, track-rod ends, ball-joints and noisy wheel bearings, as you’d find with most cars. Top mounts and suspension springs/shocks are getting hard to find.”

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The Barchetta likes to rust, and many have been scuffed during top-up manoeuvring.

Roof leaks can cause floorpan corrosion, too. Rear arches and front sill-to-floor jacking points are further areas to check.

John says: “The front section of the sills is often damaged by jacking; if left untreated, these can rot. Heavy underseal on the floor usually masks some horrors, too. The bath-tub-like floorpan prevents water getting through, but if it does get underneath then it can’t dry quickly as in the case of a conventional carpet.”

Of course, the soft-top can degrade and invariably water gets into the cabin. Fiat opted to keep the weight down by fitting a manual roof; the mechanism rarely causes problems, but wear and tear to the fabric is common, as is a cloudy rear screen.

“The rear seals and main screen seal fail regularly if not treated, and can cause water ingress to rot the floors,” John says.

The cabin is basic, with very few issues

reported. Sometimes lock barrels can fail or need to be reattached or readjusted, while trim is hard to source, and leather upholstery can wear badly if neglected. In the case of the Riviera, which used quilted red trim, you’ll need to visit the trimmers if things have been left unfed. Windows – manual and electric – periodically need adjusting to stop wind noise and leaks.

WHICH TO BUY John says you should buy the earliest prefacelift car you can find within budget: “I’d go for the pre-facelift, as I feel the front foglights and boot-mounted brake light ruined things. I always found the earlier Barchettas to be better for resisting rot; the later 1990s and early ’00s metal wasn’t as good in my experience.”

Interestingly, he still feels that an MX-5 is a more rewarding drive technically – but the Barchetta counters with a more exciting exhaust note and a greater feeling of fun. The NA (Mk1) MX-5s were phased out during the Fiat’s lifetime; more often, the Barchetta was cross-shopped against the later, smoother NB (Mk2) Mazdas.

John concludes: “The Fiat is regularly – and unfairly – compared with the Mazda, and I can honestly say the MX-5 is far superior in every way and it’s an impressive feat of engineering that the Barchetta will never be. It’s quicker, handles better, stops faster and has more equipment.

“However, having driven both the Mazda and the Fiat on the same day, I know the one thing the latter does have that the MX-5 doesn’t is a raw driving experience. The Mazda is so good and so refined, it actually becomes slightly dull.”

INSURANCE

FIAT

curve. John again: “If the ’box is crunching or changing gear is difficult, it could just be a failing clutch-release bearing or worn friction plate, or early signs of synchro issues, but the clutch is the most common.”

If you smell petrol while sizing up a potential purchase, it could forewarn of some big bills. John explains: “This can indicate a leaking fuel pump/sender-unit seal, which can be tricky due to the tank’s inboard location; it’s housed in a detachable firewall behind the seats, but the metal tanks have a tendency to shear the fixing nuts while removing the sender, resulting in an expensive tank replacement.”

Pre-facelift models are a purer design; later Barchettas have boot-mounted brake light.

MODEL HISTORY 1995: Barchetta launched with 1.8-litre engine, steel wheels and left-hand drive only. Despite this, cars are produced for sale in UK and Ireland with ABS as standard and Comfort Pack option: central locking, leather trim, front foglamps plus electric aerial and mirrors 1995: Limited Edition spec announced, with leather and 15-inch alloys. Silver and green only, with contrasting hood and silvered interior parts. Available until 1998 1996: Three Barchetta concepts appear at Turin Motor Show. Two built by Maggiora: hatch coupé and hardcore Trofeo for use on track. Third model – faster, wide-arched Dedica – shown by coachbuilder/design house Stola.

None of them makes production 1998: Riviera edition launches. Special black with red hood/red with black hood colour combinations; five other Barchetta colours available. Produced until 2001 2001: Milano picks up where Riviera left off; new Fiat roundel replaces five-bar badge on bonnet and boot 2002: Production pauses, owing to bankruptcy of final-assembly firm, Maggiora. Fiat begins searching for new manufacturing facility

AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £1500 Good: £3500 Excellent: £6000

SPECIFICATIONS 1.8-litre inline-four Power: 128bhp Top speed: 124mph 0-60mph: 8.6 seconds Economy: 34–43mpg

2004: Barchetta relaunched with tweaked nose and tail – and £2600 price cut. Rear facelift incorporates third, high-level brake light. Cars now built in Fiat’s Mirafiori factory 2005: Barchetta discontinued after approximately 57,700 examples built

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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BUYING GUIDE

1999–2009

Honda S2000 Zingy four-cylinder that revs to the heavens delivers a similarly religious experience behind the wheel

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HE S2000 TICKED ALL THE boxes enthusiastic drivers could desire when it was launched in 1999 – rear-wheel drive, 50:50 weight distribution, doublewishbone suspension and a short-shift manual gearbox. Already the foundations of a great sports car, but then Honda added one of the greatest naturally aspirated engines of all time into the mix.

While 237bhp (247bhp in Japan) from 2.0 litres may not sound like a lot in an era of 400bhp hot hatches, Honda achieved this figure without resorting to forced induction. With a 9000rpm red line and two-stage VTEC valve gear, the S2000 had the highest specific power output of any naturally aspirated engine on sale until Ferrari released the 458 in 2009.

The car graced Honda showrooms for ten years, and because the looks were essentially so right to begin with, little

changed. Bumpers, lights and wheels were revised in 2004, and an optional hardtop (standard on the GT) was introduced part-way through production.

Bigger changes occurred under the skin, however. The suspension and dampers were the main focus of the changes due to early complaints about twitchy handling. S2000s built from 2004 onwards received wider rear tyres and were more forgiving on the limit. A stability system was an optional extra from 2006, and standard fit from 2008.

US and Japanese markets received a 2.2-litre engine with the 2005 model year update, which exchanged the 2.0-litre unit’s effervescent top end for more grunt lower down the rev range. UK-spec cars used the 2.0 powerplant throughout, and while they do perform best at high revs, the later models respond better at low revs than the pre-2004 examples.

‘It’s a grown-up MX-5 – anyone can drive one of those, but the S2000 is more challenging and rewarding’

The GT version arrived in 2002 and came with a removable hardtop as standard. A final Edition 100 special edition joined the range in 2009; finished in white with graphite alloy rims and redleather interiors, just 100 were built.

Matt Stevens from Red-R Performance (www.red-r-performance.com) says: “It’s a grown-up Mazda MX-5 – anyone can drive one of those, but the S2000 is more challenging and rewarding.”

HONDA

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

The cabin is robust, but damp carpets are a sure sign of a roof leak around the screen pillars.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

Matt says a clean engine bay is a good sign.

“Listen out for any nasty rattles on startup,” he advises, adding: “A high clutch biting point always indicates a worn unit, which will cost £1000 to repair.”

Importantly, specialists recommend only using super-unleaded in the S2000’s F20C motor. Cars left standing for a long time often misfire due to old fuel.

Despite the 9000rpm red line the 2.0-litre engines are durable, although they do use a lot of oil and require a topup every 1000 miles or so. Low levels and irregular changes are the biggest cause of engine problems; high-quality, fully synthetic 5w40 oil should be used.

Starting the car with your foot on the clutch, along with excessive clutch idling, are the main reasons for bottom-end failure, as such practices wear the thrust shells. Resultantly, the crank thrust should be checked every one to two years.

The timing-chain tensioner can fail,

with a rattle on start-up being an early warning sign. A broken chain can cause serious damage to the engine.

MAP-sensor problems were known to cause running issues for the earlier cars, thanks to vibrations working the sensor loose. Securing it with a simple cable tie will solve this issue. The VTEC variable valve-timing systems are proven to be reliable, but infrequent oil changes can result in sticky hydraulic pins. Bearing shells are also known to wear prematurely.

The transmissions are strong. Post2004 cars had upgraded carbonfibre components, which helps to extend the lifespan of the synchromesh ring.

Clutches on unmodified cars last well thanks to the low torque output.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES On the test drive, Matt advises: “Check all the brake discs are wearing evenly, and that the handbrake isn’t pointing to the sky. It should be on solid with five clicks.

Suspension bushes tend to need replacing after 70,000-80,000 miles, with the lower control arms being the weakest components. Front subframe bolts should be removed and greased fairly regularly as well, because failure leads to an expensive repair bill. Rear dampers can weep from the upper seal – you should budget £400 apiece to fix these.

Earlier cars were known for nervous handling, but modern tyres and factory suspension alterations have largely resolved this issue. Suspension kits for

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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MODEL HISTORY 1999: S2000 (AP1) launched with 237bhp 2.0-litre engine 2002: GT with removable hardtop launched. Plastic rear window replaced with glass. Suspension upgrades carried out to improve handling

early AP1 models tame oversteer. If the car pulls to one side or you are hearing squealing under braking, it’s likely that the calipers have seized.

The cabin is fairly snug, meaning tall drivers may struggle to get comfortable.

This is not helped by the fact the steering wheel isn’t adjustable for rake or reach.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR

WHICH TO BUY

Accident damage is common, and the wheelwells and front subframe can often play host to rust. Modified panels should be checked for fit and finish, as wonky fitment is an invitation to rust beneath.

Rust can be found in the boot floor, so check under the carpet. It’s often caused by cracked panel sealant hiding just behind the two small upper plastic trim covers that sit just in front of the bootlid, and fastened with one Phillips screw each. It’s advisable to remove the rear rubber arch protectors, because they hold in water and dirt, leading to corrosion.

The interior is robust, and often sports an aftermarket radio. Early Hamilton & Palmer alarm systems are a known failure spot, and damp carpets are a sure sign of a roof leak around the screen pillars.

Roof catches can wear, leading to rattles, but these can be fixed inexpensively.

Don’t put it off; if they are left to get too loose, the roof could start to fit poorly, eventually leading to a failure to close.

Later cars had a glass rear window, which is preferable to the earlier plastic version.

If you do have a roof issue, Matt suggests Jack Smith Motor Trimmers in Wales: “It’s a £600 drive-in, drive-out job, and S2000 owners rave about the firm’s work.”

Matt suggests buying an earlier (19992004) S2000. “Pre-facelift-model engines are a bit longer lasting; the later cars can suffer from crankshaft problems,” he says. “Get a specialist to measure the crank thrust at the crankshaft pulley.”

Mileage and condition play a huge part in values, although pre-2004 cars are a bit cheaper. Do not be put off by high mileages, but walk away if the service history is patchy. Edition 100 models command the highest prices.

There is no doubt that the S2000 is a future classic. It combines the core aspects you’d look for in a pure driver’s car, with one of the finest engines ever.

Matt says: “They’re great cars, and very well made to a whole different type of reliability standards to most cars.”

The current crop of turbocharged sports cars offer a very different drive, and the high-revving, naturally aspirated S2000 will become an increasingly rare pleasure whose desirability is sure to increase.

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INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £9000 Good: £11,000 Excellent: £15,000 (2005 S2000)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

2004: AP1 facelift version introduced.

Major changes carried out to running gear. Additional suspension changes include structural bracing to further improve handling. Standard wheel size increases from 16 to 17 inches. Steering ratio reduced by seven percent. US market receives 2.2-litre engine (same power, more torque, lower red line) under AP2 label for 2005 model year.

Japan also gets 2.2 unit 2006: Stability system becomes an option. Seats upgraded with speakers integrated into headrests 2008: Stability system standard fitment.

Suspension receives further revisions.

Club Racer introduced for US market – numerous changes made to improve on-track performance; 699 units built in total. Type S introduced in Japan with lighter body and high-downforce bodykit; 1755 units built 2009: Edition 100 launched in UK, limited to 100 units. Ultimate Edition released for European market. Final S2000 made, with 110,000-plus built over ten years

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre inline-four Power: 237bhp (247bhp for Japanese market) Top speed: 150mph 0-60mph: 6.2 seconds Economy: 28.5mpg 2.2-litre inline-four Power: 237bhp Top speed: 150mph 0-60mph: 6.2 seconds Economy: 28.5mpg (est.)

BUYING GUIDE

1948–1961

Jaguar XK120/ XK140/XK150

The cars that paved the way for the E-type were export legends in their own right – but remain a relatively rare sight in their homeland

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year, too: SE cars now produced 190bhp (up from 160bhp), and 210bhp could be had from the optional ‘C-type’ head. A final bodystyle joined the line-up in 1953; the Drophead Coupé (DHC), complete with wind-up windows and the FHC’s walnut dash, along with a proper hood.

While the XK120’s story came to an end in 1954 after just over 12,000 cars were built, it had set an astounding precedent.

The XK140 took what Jaguar had learned with the XK120 and made it an even more attractive proposition for buyers. There was more room in the cabin because the engine, enlarged and more powerful, had moved forward; rackand-pinion steering featured for the first

MAGIC CAR PICS

NCREDIBLY, THE XK120 WAS supposed to score Jaguar founder Sir William Lyons a quick hit before moving on. That’s because the saloon range intended to receive his new XK engine wasn’t going to be ready in time for the 1948 Earls Court Motor Show.

Yet response to the new model, dubbed “the fastest production car in the world”, was overwhelming – so much so that earlier plans to build a mere 200 were quickly shelved. Revisions soon followed: a Fixed-Head Coupé (FHC) joined the Open Two-Seater (OTS) in 1951, marked only for export, making right-hand-drive cars special commission only (and extremely rare to boot). Power output went up that

Seat trim and carpets can be easily replaced, but not so hood frames and some dash switches.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Response to the new car, dubbed “the fastest production car in the world”, was overwhelming’

time; telescopic dampers replaced the XK120’s lever arms; and a repositioned roofline allowed for two rear seats to be fitted for the first time.

Racing experience was fed directly into the XK150 of 1957, which not only looked different, but went and stopped far harder than the previous two generations of XK. Styling tweaks modernised the shape for the late 1950s; a single-piece windscreen, wider bonnet and shallower curved wings disguised four-wheel disc brakes, derived from the Dunlop units on the C-type racer.

The final 3.8-litre evolution of the XK150 was built in direct response to the smallblock V8 competition in North America.

It produced 220bhp as standard, with 265bhp on tap if the S specification was

ticked. Exactly 9382 cars later, as the last XK150s left the line, a new model was ready to take its place: the E-type. Without the trailblazing export drive of the XK series, that car might never have happened.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX “The heart of any XK model is the XK motor,” says Harry Rochez, assistant manager for Twyford Moors Classic Cars (www.jagxk.com). “Check the engine and block numbers to see if it’s original to the car; so many XK units were built, it’s not unusual to see a later engine in an earlier model. It’s down to personal taste, but that should be reflected in the value of the car.

Ask to see its Jaguar Heritage Certificate if it has one; this will tell you the original

engine number, among other things.”

Harry continues: “Overall the engines are very robust, but the timing-chain tensioners can become lazy, which will give a rattling chain, and valve gear can become noisy. Rebuilds are quite common, however, and not the end of the world.”

Don’t be put off if an electric cooling fan has been retro fitted; all XKs tend to get hot in traffic because they weren’t built to be driven in modern jams.

Modifications such as these don’t detract from the value, either. “People generally buy XKs to use,” says Harry.

The non-synchronised Moss gearboxes, used throughout production, are the XK’s Achilles’ heel. In Harry’s words: “They’re a slow ’box in a fast car; you need to be

patient between ratios, there is no synchromesh on first, and second tends to wear out, so you need to double declutch. They can be rebuilt, but there are no new parts, and it gets quite expensive. The XK140s and XK150s had overdrive as an option; it makes them quite long legged, but the units are temperamental and very sensitive to oil levels. They have an electrically operated solenoid that needs adjusting properly.”

Better gearboxes are an option; many specialists plump for the W50 series unit as used in the Toyota Celica/Supra: “Five-speed gearbox conversions are one of the most popular conversions in the XK world,” says Harry. “We’ve done thousands of swaps over the years.”

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1954’s XK140 brought a bigger, more powerful engine and additional cabin space. Steering and suspension improvements were made as well.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES XK120s and XK140s had drum brakes all round; it was with the XK150 that Dunlop disc brakes were fitted. The correct adjustment and maintenance is crucial on the earlier cars, and the units need warming up before you set off to drive.

XKs are quick vehicles, even by modern standards; many XK120s and XK140s have since been upgraded to front discs.

Don’t be put off by an XK150 with a poor handbrake. “The arrangement for the handbrake on the XK150 is atrocious,” says Harry. “You can get them to work better, but it’s a case of ‘adjust, adjust, adjust’: it’s something that few people manage to do.” Twyford Moors is currently working on a conversion kit.

The XK120 used lever-arm dampers at the rear, which tend to leak and are expensive to rebuild; XK140s and XK150s used telescopic units all round, which are

‘DHCs are a fair compromise between the visual appeal of an OTS and an FHC’s innate practicality’ 102

far stronger. Ball-joints and bushes can wear out, ruining the handling. XK120s have a steering box, which is costly to rebuild if there’s play, but so is upgrading the relatively narrow chassis to rack and pinion, as seen in the XK140 and XK150.

“You have to alter the chassis and fit a different radiator,” says Harry. “It’s a lot of work; we tend to do it at restoration stage.”

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR “There’s nothing we can’t rebuild on an XK, no matter how bad it’s got. There’s not a single panel that isn’t made or can’t be made,” explains Harry.

A crucial rot point is where the rear wings are bolted on. Also, earlier doors have wooden frames with aluminium

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

skins; the frames can rot, pushing the doors out of alignment. Steel equivalents are available. Although front suspension mounts can corrode, specialists such as Twyford Moors have jigs that can sort this.

Check for panel gaps and how they fit together; badly fitted panels can ruin the look of the car, especially where the wings meet the doors. Aligning things properly takes time and costs money. This model’s bodies were mounted on spacers, and no two examples were the same.

If looking at more expensive cars, check that they have had a body-off restoration, with time spent sorting those panel gaps. “People in that market expect better than what the factory managed at the time,” says Harry. However, if a car is

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The XK150 of 1957 had fresh, more modern styling, a single-piece windscreen and fourwheel disc brakes derived from the C-type’s.

MODEL HISTORY 1948: Jaguar XK120 revealed as limited-run sports car at Earls Court Motor Show. Incredibly well received, demand far outstrips supply 1951: XK120 FHC announced; SE and C-type heads released, boosting power 1953: XK120 DHC launched otherwise sound, they can make for a cheaper XK that’s a perfect ‘driver’.

Carpets and seats wear, and can be replaced, but switches and hood frames can be hard to come by. Frames are made but have to be fettled to fit a specific car.

WHICH TO BUY Harry says: “For me, it would be an XK150 FHC. I love the shape and practicality; I can get my children in the back. Of all the cars, they offer incredible value for money.

XK120s have their own charm, but you have to be conscious of what you’re driving; an XK140 or XK150 could be used on the M25 without thinking about it.”

Any factory-built right-hand-drive XK will fetch a premium over an equivalent left-hand-drive car; more than 75 percent of XK production went overseas. Any conversion work needs to be declared.

OTS cars are the least practical but have the prettiest shape. “They’re popular 104

with people who want a car for high days and holidays,” says Harry, “but they’re not much good for touring, and you need a scout troop to put the hood down. They also have screw-in side screens instead of winding windows. DHCs are the most popular XK, as they’re a fair compromise between the visual appeal of an OTS/ Roadster and the FHC’s innate practicality.”

He continues: “DHCs have wind-up windows, a walnut dash and a hood that can be raised and lowered by one person.

We find XK140 DHCs are very popular.

FHCs have a solid roof, making them less valuable, but there are exceptions; only 195 XK120 FHCs were made in right-hand drive, and they are incredibly sought after.”

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £35,000 Good: £60,000 Excellent: £100,000 (XK150 FHC)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1954: XK120 discontinued; XK140 released with more power, bigger cabin, revised styling, telescopic dampers and rack-and-pinion steering 1957: XK140 dropped in favour of XK150.

Overdrive and automatic gearboxes offered for first time 1958: OTS/Roadster XK150 released; S available as OTS only for one year 1959: S cars now available in FHC and DHC bodystyles; 3.8-litre engine released, up to 265bhp in S specification 1961: XK150 phased out in favour of all-new E-type

SPECIFICATIONS 3.8-litre inline-six (XK150 3.8S FHC) Power: 265bhp Top speed: 136mph 0-60mph: 7.6 seconds Economy: 17mpg

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BUYING GUIDE

1961–1974

Jaguar E-type six-cylinder

‘The Jaguar E-type is not so much a mere car as it is a folk hero rendered in metal, leather and rubber’

The car that launched a million schoolboy dreams is now a classic par excellence, and it never disappoints

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engineer. If the heart rate soared to Spitfire levels upon seeing it, then the promise of its Le Mans race-car-derived 265bhp straight-six only added to the heady mix. Jaguar bullishly claimed (and just about proved) that its new car would accelerate from 0-60mph in under seven seconds and onto a 150mph top speed, making the E-type the fastest production car in the world at the time.

The Jaguar was on sale for 14 years, and there were many updates and amendments over that time. A larger, 4.2-litre version of the straight-six arrived in 1964, mated to a full-synchromesh four-speed gearbox. A longer, 2+2 FixedHead Coupé model with a higher roof was later added to the range. Further minor

MAGIC CAR PICS

HEN YOU THINK of British engineering icons, there are a handful that come to mind – and we’re betting that alongside the Mini and the Supermarine Spitfire, the Jaguar E-type has to be somewhere near the top of the list. Generations have been captivated by its performance, appearance and ingenuity – this is not so much a mere car as it is a folk hero rendered in metal, leather and rubber.

The distinctive shape has roots in the same British aviation know-how that gave rise to the Spitfire in the 1930s.

The E-type’s pioneering, aerodynamically conscious bodywork was the calling card of Malcolm Sayer, a war-time aerospace

Most cabin parts are well catered for by the aftermarket, but a full retrim can be very expensive.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

changes were made to Series 1 cars towards the end of their production run, before being replaced by the Series 2 in 1968. These transitional examples are known colloquially as Series 1.5 models.

Series 2 cars featured several exterior changes to adhere to the US’s increasingly stringent regulations. These included a wider grille and arches, relocated taillights and wraparound bumpers. The 4.2-litre engine remained, albeit with improved cooling. Air-conditioning and power steering were introduced as factory-fitted options, and the interior’s switchgear, dashboard and seats were revised.

Ten years after the car’s launch, the third and final series of E-type was introduced in 1971. The last of the breed

had a 5.3-litre V12 engine, uprated brakes and power steering fitted as standard. As such, this was more of a GT car – and so for this buying guide, we’ll be focusing on the sportier six-cylinder models.

“They are the quintessentially iconic British car of that era,” says Alistair Gill of E-Type UK (www.etypeuk.com). “After driving all sorts of supercars and exotica, this is the car that’s most appreciated.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX If maintained properly, both 3.8- and 4.2-litre straight-six engines are largely robust, but the health of the head gasket is of paramount concern.

Open the radiator cap while the engine is running; if there is bubbling, foam or

white scum present, then the head gasket is potentially in need of replacement.

Water or foam on the underside of the oilfiller cap is another tell-tale sign.

Remove the dipstick and check the oil isn’t too gritty or dark, and that it sits at the right level. If possible, a compression test is highly recommended – an engine in fine fettle should have compression readings within five to ten psi of one another on all cylinders.

A rough-running powerplant probably means the carburettors need adjusting.

This is tricky to get right and is a procedure best left to E-type specialists.

Check the condition of the coolant and coolant hoses, because problems here can cause warped cylinder heads and

overheating. “The coolant needs to be the correct strength, and the hoses need to be the right shape,” says Alistair.

Oil pressures should read at around 40psi on straight-six engines. Excessive smoke from the exhaust when the car is warm, along with any rattling sounds, are an indicator of potential problems – rebuilds can set you back anything up to £15,000. “They do suffer from oil leaks and weeps,” explains Alistair. “If it is leaving puddles on the floor, work is needed, but the odd drip is normal.”

A crunchy, hesitant change, or if the car jumps out of gear, could be a sign of underlying issues. The early four-speed Moss ’boxes had no synchro on first, so don’t be too alarmed if the car is difficult

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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to get into gear – it’s a well known quirk.

A high biting point indicates the clutch is past its best – this might be something to haggle over with a prospective purchase, as fitting a new one is a labourintensive and therefore expensive job.

Jerky or clunky changes in the auto ’boxes point to possible issues, as does brown or burnt-smelling transmission fluid; this should be reddish colour if the gearbox is healthy. A whining differential is a £1000 fix, excluding labour.

good operation, because it’s an expensive IRS unit-out fix,” Alistair explains. If the diff leaks onto the rear discs they will need to be changed, regardless of wear.

Many owners have upgraded the brakes, which is a wise move if originality isn’t a concern, particularly on Series 1 models. The car should pull up straight, and there shouldn’t be any strange noises from the brakes or steering wheel shudder when stopping. Ensure there isn’t any fluid leaking from the lines or calipers.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR

The E-type’s independent rear suspension is complex, and it is situated in a steel cage mounted to the floorpan, known as the IRS unit. There’s a typical doublewishbone arrangement up front, while the steering is a rack-and-pinion affair.

A health check of the suspension is best performed off the ground. Check the steering column, wishbones and axlecage mounts for play, and look for weeping dampers, worn suspension bushes and split steering-rack gaiters. “Some of the early steering-rack mounts fail or cause horrible knocking noises when steering,” says Alistair. “These can be replaced with uprated mounts.” Finally, make sure the wheel splines are in good condition, and that none is missing or bent.

The condition of the inboard rear disc brakes is hugely important. “Ensure the calipers aren’t seized and the discs are in good order, and that the handbrake has

A rust-free, structurally sound body is the most important consideration when buying any E-type. Don’t be too distracted by the attractive bodywork; restorations are wallet-bustingly expensive.

A freshly repainted car can hide many sins, so be vigilant. Corrosion is the most likely issue you’ll find, and is sadly very

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‘Solving mechanical maladies is largely far easier than dealing with rot.

Find a good one and you’ll have a bona fide icon’

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

common. The floorpans, door bottoms, boot floor, rear-suspension mountings, back arches and front valance are known rot spots. Corrosion can also be found in the seams inside the bonnet and at the engine rails, particularly around the battery.

Seek out signs of poorly performed restoration work and the use of filler – although not all putty is terrible, as Alistair explains. “The majority of E-types will have an element of filler in them,” he says.

“This is likely used to get the shape right, because the replacement panels have bad fitment or are of poor quality.”

The one-piece, front-hinged bonnet is notoriously difficult to fit correctly, so this area is an important one to check.

Meanwhile, most interior parts are amply catered for by the aftermarket. However, a full cabin retrim can be very expensive.

WHICH TO BUY The E-type is one of those rare examples where the hype is rewarded – despite the lofty pedestal on which the Jaguar sits, driving one more than lives up to expectations. Early Series 1s are the most sought after – these cars have flat floors and external bonnet latches. Unless you’re desperate for these items, you’ll have just as much fun (and more legroom) in a slightly later S1 for less money.

Highly original, well maintained models can cost several hundred thousand pounds, while well restored cars with reputable documentation aren’t close behind. The

BUYING GUIDE

The purity of the Series 1 (left) was enhanced with the updated Series 1.5 (below), which was introduced in 1967 as an interim forerunner to the Series 2.

Series 2 teamed the 4.2 engine with a wraparound rear bumper and a larger front grille.

MODEL HISTORY 1961: Series 1 E-type launched with 3.8-litre 265bhp straight-six, after its unveiling at Geneva Motor Show in Roadster and Fixed-Head Coupé form. Earliest cars have exterior bonnet latches and flat floorpans 1964: Series 1 gets larger 4.2-litre straight-six,with same peak power but increased torque. New full-synchromesh Jaguar gearbox replaces earlier Moss unit recent advent of both resto-mod and Continuation variants adds yet another dimension to the market, although these are expensive and highly sought after.

“The one I enjoy the most is the S1 FHC 4.2, but a lot of people like the drophead,” says Alistair. “With the five-speed ’box, an alloy radiator and upgraded brakes, it’s a really usable car you can enjoy regularly.”

The priority is finding an example with bodywork that is uncompromised by rust – regardless of the model. Solving mechanical maladies is largely far easier than dealing with the ravages of rot.

Bearing all this in mind, it’s best to take your time and enlist the expertise of a specialist when sourcing your E-type.

Find a good one and you’ll have a bona fide icon of British motoring.

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INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £39,300 Good: £57,700 Excellent: £80,000 (1962 S1 FHC)

SPECIFICATIONS 3.8-litre straight-six (Series 1) Power: 265bhp Top speed: 153mph 0-60mph: 6.7 seconds Economy: 18mpg (est.)

4.2-litre straight-six (Series 2) Power: 265bhp Top speed: 151mph 0-60mph: 7.0 seconds Economy: 17mpg (est.)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1966: 2+2 Fixed-Head Coupé arrives with option of four-speed automatic ’box. Longer wheelbase and higher roof 1967: Transitional Series 1.5 produced, with some changes to be introduced for Series 2. These include open headlights, new switchgear, detuned carbs, twin cooling fans and adjustable seatbacks 1968: Series 2 released. Retains 4.2-litre engine and gets wraparound rear bumper, larger front grille and relocated rear lights.

Power steering and air-con are optional 1971: Final Series 3 arrives. Shortwheelbase body dropped, available only as long-wheelbase Roadster and 2+2 FHC. Straight-six gives way to 5.3 V12 1974: E-type production ends

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BUYING GUIDE

1962–1974

Lotus Elan

Small, light and nimble, this diminutive Brit ticks many sports car boxes

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and electric windows. The SE trim level, which offered a bit more power, continued into the S3 model era.

The Elan +2 hardtop appeared in 1967, with a lengthened and widened chassis that allowed for rear seating. Then in 1968 the S4 arrived, which saw the addition of wider-section tyres, flared wheelarches plus revised rear lights and switchgear.

“In these modern times I see it as a truly green car,” says Paul Matty of Paul Matty Sportscars (www.paulmattysportscars. co.uk). “You can replace everything, they’re mechanically relatively simple, they’re cheap to insure and they’re good on fuel. They’re a real driver’s car, too.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The engine is pretty strong and long lasting if looked after properly. If the worst happens and you need a new unit, it isn’t the end of the world: “You can build a brand-new motor, because everything’s available now and quality is better than

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE ELAN’S BLUEPRINT was simple: a lightweight, aerodynamic sports car with fully independent suspension, all-round disc brakes and a twin-cam engine. It came together beautifully, and proved highly influential.

The Lotus’s four-cylinder engine used a Ford Cortina bottom end mated to the company’s twin-cam cylinder head, resulting in a zingy 105-108bhp in Series 1 guise. This increased to 115bhp in SE (Special Equipment) versions; SE cars also received servo-assisted brakes. S3 and S4 Elans benefitted from revised con-rods, crankshaft and oil seals, which did much to improve reliability.

Lotus released a racing version, the S1 Type 26R, in 1964. The S2 Type 26R appeared a year later. The Series 3 Elan appeared in 1965 as a fixed-head coupé model, followed in early 1966 by the drophead coupé version. Interiors were revised, and now included full carpeting

Replacement trim is readily available; just watch out for electrical foibles due to poor earthing.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

when the car was new,” explains Paul.

“When the engine’s warm, oil pressure should read at 40psi while over 3000rpm and 20psi at idle,” he continues. Blue smoke from the exhaust can be due to an issue with the guides or piston rings, but it may not be a horrendous problem: “When the car stands, oil runs down the valve guides, and sits on the back of the valve and on top of the piston. When you start it there will be smoke – but once the engine’s warm, that should disappear.”

On early cylinder heads, the oil doesn’t drain from the head and can stay on the exhaust side of the engine. “That will find its way down to the valve stem,” says Paul.

“You have to modify it to cure the issue.”

A whining or clattering noise from the engine bay can often mean a badly adjusted timing chain. However, the Elan’s main weakness is overheating, and it’s a prevalent issue – particularly on S3 and S4 cars. S3s switched to a smaller Triumph radiator, which became an even narrower and cheaper unit in the S4. The S4 radiator was also used in the Sprint model, and all that additional power increases the risk of overheating.

An alloy crossflow radiator is a good upgrade. “With a better, modern fan assembly with a manual override, you should find the Elan’s overheating problem will cease to be an issue,” says Paul, who also offers a thermostat housing that raises the water level above the thermostat. Replacing a leaking water pump is a labour-intensive job, though.

A four-speed manual from the Ford 2000E is the most common ’box, although early cars featured a close-ratio version.

Whichever you choose, it is a strong, durable unit. “If there any problems, most parts are available,” confirms Paul.

A five-speed gearbox was offered only

‘The fastest Sprints are quick even by today’s standards, but whichever Elan you choose, it’ll light up any B-road’

Over more than a decade in production and through various iterations, the little British sports car set a template for all roadsters to follow.

in the Elan +2 S130/5, and was sourced from the Austin Maxi. While the ’box’s poorly selected ratios and sloppy shift feel, even when in good condition, are only to be expected, a noisy, crunchy transmission isn’t. An expensive rebuild is imminent if it’s exhibiting those signs.

“It’s getting difficult to find parts for the five-speed, too,” Paul adds.

The Cortina-based differential uses a Lotus-specific rear-carrier casing, which means the internal spares are easy to source. Refurbishment is in order if the differential is either whiny when moving or leaking from the pinion seal.

Drivelines are a perennial Elan problem area. The incorporated rubber rotoflex couplings perish with age, while the rest of the driveline struggles with the demands placed upon it.

“There are two schools of thought: people who want originality, and those who want to use the car for serious driving,” says Paul. “There’s a direct replacement for the rotoflex coupling.

They last as long as the original one, but it’s imperative that people renew the bolts when they replace the unit.”

The alternative option is a soliddriveshaft conversion, of which there are two types. “The first type uses CV joints on a fixed-length driveshaft, and is a direct replacement,” explains Paul. “The other option is the universal-type joint with splined centre shaft. This has been 114

developed for racing, and is what was used on the 26R – they work superbly.”

If fitting a solid driveshaft, you need to check the inboard shaft, because you’re putting more load through it. “You also have to limit rear-suspension droop, with reduced-droop dampers,” advises Paul.

There are two rear-wheel bearings on each side, and they can accumulate road salt and wear out. “Very early cars had two thin bearings, which were later modified to have a thicker one on the inside, which was much more reliable,” says Paul. To check whether you’ve got worn bearings, he advises rolling the car slowly downhill and zig-zagging a little.

“Any noise indicates wear,” he says.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

alignment is often performed at the same time, so uneven tyre wear shouldn’t be prevalent. Paul again: “It is all about handling; the front dampers need to be in good condition, so everybody fits adjustable dampers and spring pan. You don’t want it to run high – the ride height has to be set correctly.”

Make sure both the wishbones and the suspension arms are straight, particularly if a wheel has been kerbed. The tyres should not touch the anti-roll bars when on full lock. If they do, it’s a sign that the wrong steering rack has been fitted.

Most Elans had Girling servos fitted from new, but replacements are no longer available. Paul says: “You either fit replacement AP Lockheeds or get the original Girling one rebuilt.”

Most cars will have had the steel backbone chassis replaced by now. A full suspension

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR

‘These Elans are mechanically relatively simple, they’re cheap to insure and they’re good on fuel. A real driver’s car, too’

The Elan’s glassfibre body means rust isn’t an issue, but cracks and crazing are very common, particularly if repairs have been substandard in nature. You’re likely to find problems around the badges, door handles and boot hinges. Make sure any bodyshell repairs have been performed by glassfibre specialists. The factory didn’t fit the doors particularly well, so don’t be too alarmed by uneven panel gaps. “On S4s and Sprints, the doors can be quite severely out,” says Paul.

Rust was a well known problem with Elan chassis, but most have been replaced

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

This assembly has the greatest bearing on the performance of your E-type

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MODEL HISTORY 1962: Elan 1500 roadster launched 1963: Twin-cam 1.6-litre replaces 1500 after 22 built. Hardtop now available 1964: Series 2 released with larger front calipers, new wooden dash and rear lights 1965: Series 3 fixed-head coupé arrives.

Power windows and close-ratio ’box option 1966: New Special Equipment has 115bhp engine, close-ratio ’box, servo brakes, front-wing indicators and centre-lock rims. Series 3 drop-top has FHC’s updates 1967: Elan +2 launched. Longer and wider with fixed roof and 118bhp 1968: Series 4 arrives. Flared arches and updated rear lights. New switches and facia. Bonnet now bulges. +2 S offered, too; higher-quality interior and standard fogs. First Elan not to be offered in kit form Sporty little Elan still holds its own against much more modern machinery, while +2 (left) allows driver to carry more than one passenger.

1969: Elan +2 ends, but +2 S is still built 1971: New Sprint features 126bhp and two-tone paint. Single-tone paint optional. +2 S130 gets same engine and silver roof 1972: Five-speed ’box now available on +2 S130 – badged +2 S130/5 1973: S4 discontinued

by galvanised replacements. An original chassis will need close scrutiny for rust around the front suspension-mounting points. “If a car hasn’t had a new chassis, it will need one soon unless it’s a museum piece,” says Paul. “There are several types – the genuine Lotus chassis, a 26R variant of that, two types of Spider chassis – one of which is a stressed-skin equivalent to the Lotus chassis – or a spaceframe unit. The 26R version developed for racing makes the car superb on the road.”

Originality is desirable, but aftermarket interior pieces are available. Poor earthing means Elan electrical foibles are well known. A modern alternator, ignition and starter are recommended upgrades. “It’s best to rewire the car,” says Paul.

INSURANCE AND AGREED

WHICH TO BUY

VA LUAT I O N S

Although all Elan models are relatively mechanically similar, there is a multitude

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of variants and bodystyles to choose from. While the two-seat convertibles are most popular, fixed-head coupés and +2 models are well worth investigating. The +2 is much more practical, and allows for journeys to be more than a duo-only affair – it’s also Paul’s pick of the range: “The +2s are unsung heroes and are starting to find their feet. They’re really underrated.”

All Elans use the same basic engine, but in various states of tune. The fastest Sprint models are quick even by today’s standards, but even the lowest-powered variants offer pretty zesty performance.

Whichever Elan you choose, it’ll light up any given B-road.

Fair: £15,700 Good: £24,900 Excellent: £29,100 (1968 S4 DHC)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1974: Sprint and S130 production ends

SPECIFICATIONS 1.6-litre inline-four (Elan S1 and S2) Power: 105bhp Top speed: 114mph 0-60mph: 8.8 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

1.6-litre inline-four (Elan SE) Power: 115bhp Top speed: 118mph 0-60mph: 7.6 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

1.6-litre inline-four (Elan +2S 130) Power: 126bhp Top speed: 120mph 0-60mph: 7.5 seconds Economy: 26mpg (est.)

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BUYING GUIDE

1996–2021

Lotus Elise The Elise showed the world that Lotus was still the master of lightweight sports cars – and more than 25 years later, its brilliance shines on

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(no power assistance or driver aids of any kind), it’s one of the best-handling and most responsive cars available, all thanks to ‘adding lightness’, as company founder Colin Chapman inscribed into Lotus lore.

The 111S and more powerful, trackfocused 340R rounded off the firstgeneration cars, and by the time the Series 2 arrived in November 2000 for the 2001 model year, the planned production limit of 2500 cars had been stretched to 9000.

To make the Series 2 compliant with increasingly stringent emissions and safety regulations, updates had to be made. Initially models were offered with the Rover K-series as in the Series 1, but eco requirements eventually saw a change to Toyota-sourced engines.

The addition of ABS, air-conditioning and electric windows in some models meant additional weight, but the increased

MAGIC CAR PICS, LOTUS

HE ELISE’S 1996 ARRIVAL was a true return to form for Lotus. It didn’t pretend to be anything but a distilled driving tool, with excellent steering feel and a communicative chassis. These would continue to define the model for 25 years.

A few thousand cars and an end to production in 2000 was the plan, but strong demand made sure that never happened; three generations ended up tearing their way out of Norfolk. These later versions have slowly increased in weight, due partially to increased safety regulations and also to the addition of a few creature comforts. Nonetheless, they still offer a level of driver involvement that is missing in all but the most dedicated track cars.

The early Series 1 cars offer the purest experience. Fitted with the Rover K-series engine and very little in the way of frills

There is little to go wrong in the spartan cabin, but a faulty heater and air-con can be an issue.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘The excellent steering feel and a communicative chassis would continue to define the car for 25 years’

power outputs ensured performance didn’t suffer. The 111S was reintroduced with the Rover K-series, but lasted only until 2005 when the Rover engine was phased out in favour of Toyota’s ZZ unit.

Other track-focused cars included the 135R and Sport 190, boasting more power and handling upgrades. Vauxhall’s very capable VX220 roadster was developed from the Series 2 chassis.

When the Series 3 cars were introduced for the 2011 model year, they continued with Toyota powertrains and added a few more kilograms in the form of safety kit and extra spec. They’re more sophisticated and generously equipped than the original Elise, and make better daily drivers, too.

Parts are easily available from specialists,

and now Lotus’s own spares programme offers keenly priced genuine components.

Running costs for the Elise are reasonable, and generally it is a reliable vehicle.

Jon Seal of Lotus specialist Jon Seal Sportscars (www.jonsealsportscars.com) says: “It’s pure driving fun that doesn’t cost a fortune to run.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The Rover K-series powerplant found in Series 1 and early Series 2 cars is generally tough, but leak-prone radiators resulted in uprated aluminium replacements being fitted in many cars. Another common issue is the head gasket blowing if the engine overheats. Fuel-injection pump fuses were uprated from 1998 onwards,

and are worth retrofitting to older cars.

Although cambelt-changing guidance says the job needs to be carried out every four years or 54,000 miles, it is worth doing earlier if you frequently take the car on track. Toyota engines have camchains, and while to a casual observer these seem to be the models to have, Elise owners are split into two camps: “The engines are pretty robust,” says Jon. “The Rover K-series has its head-gasket issues, and the Toyota units are robust and reliable until you start modifying them.”

The transmissions are durable. Earlier cars had unbraided rubber hoses to the clutch, meaning the unit could start to function in an erratic manner. Braided items can be retrofitted, and newer cars

should have had them installed from the factory. Synchros can also become worn on second and third gear, particularly on Toyota-engined cars. “Rover ones are pretty solid,” explains Jon. Gearshift cables can stretch with age, and linkages between the gearlever and transmission are known to wear. From the Series 2 onwards, the Elise had revised versions to minimise this. “If you tune the engines, the gearboxes need upgrading to deal with the power,” warns Jon.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Steering racks are known for having problems, so make sure the car responds crisply to inputs. “They can be a little noisy,” says Jon. Suspension components

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tend to be hard wearing, and issues such as cracked rubber mountings and worn dampers or bushes are hard to verify unless you have a particularly skilled eye. Consequently, it’s a good idea to get a specialist to give any potential purchase a once-over.

Series 1 cars have a tendency to corrode around the front suspension-mounting points. Some owners have found that the sports exhausts seem to wear out quickly, while the standard items last longer.

“Rear toe links can be problematic,” explains Jon. “Aside from wear and tear, the bolt that connects them to the control arms can bend or snap, so it’s best to periodically change them – particularly on the Series 1 models.”

Wishbones can corrode, but Jon says it’s largely a cosmetic issue – many owners have them cleaned up and powder coated.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The tub is made up of aluminium panels glued to the chassis. Rust tends to crop up only in the steel rear subframe, although corrosion in the footwell floor was common in Series 1 cars. “The issue was rectified on S2s,” Jon says.

Meanwhile, the chassis is extremely strong and rigid, but repairing a damaged one can be very labour intensive. The same applies to the glassfibre body panels – so if the car you are considering has been involved in an accident, you would be wise to skip it and keep looking.

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The first batch of Series 2s have LED rear lights that are known to malfunction.

“One or two can go out, and then it’s an MoT failure,” says Jon. Early S1 cars can exhibit osmosis blistering on the glassfibre. “It’s a fairly common sight on unrestored cars,” Jon explains. “For the S2, Lotus changed the construction method, but this means you’ll get blistering around the tops of the doors if you leave the car outside in the frost, necessitating a paint job.”

The window-winder mechanisms tend to give a variety of problems, although specialists do offer lower-cost solutions.

Such a spartan cabin means there’s not much else to go wrong, but check that the heater is working, especially in Series 2s.

Jon explains why: “Heater resistors fail on all versions of the Elise, but they’re easy to fix on S1s and very early S2s.

For the 111S onwards and the Toyota cars, you have to take off the front clamshell.

The resistor pack is on the chassis floor, so it gets water all over it. Lotus produced an updated resistor pack that lifts it up out of the moisture.”

Ensure any air-conditioning system fitted is working correctly. Modules can fail, and the front-to-rear pipes can also corrode, which is a costly problem to rectify; a simple re-gas is rarely the solution. “The air-con condenser accounts for nine out of ten failures,” says Jon. “I’d say most air-con systems aren’t working on older Toyota cars now.”

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‘Early S1s are the purest of them all, but there is a lot to like about the S2 and S3 with their Toyota motors’ WHICH TO BUY While the design brief has remained unchanged throughout the Elise’s life, safety regulations and beefier engines have added weight to the later ones. New cars offer the safety net of a manufacturer’s warranty, but the Elise is a tough little sportster and decent used examples can be found for far less. Most are well cared for and do not generally rack up big mileage. Watch out for overly modified or track-abused examples.

The early S1s are the purest of them all, but there is a lot to like about the S2 and S3 with their more reliable, Toyota motors.

Track-focused Cups are ideal for weekend blasts, yet even the least powerful Elise will have you smiling on a country road.

“I’d struggle to pick one,” says Jon, who owns a special-edition K-series S2 and a 250 Cup Final Edition. “Whichever version you choose, they are great fun – Lotus doesn’t make a bad one.”

From the purest S1 (opposite) to the more developed S2 (above), and trackfocused models such as the Cup 250 (left), the Lotus Elise never fails to appeal.

SPECIFICATIONS 1.8-litre inline-four (Series 1 Elise) Power: 118bhp Top speed: 124mph 0-60mph: 5.5 seconds Economy: 39.8mpg

MODEL HISTORY 1996: 118bhp 1.8-litre Elise Series 1 arrives 1998: 145bhp Sport 135 released 1999: 111S, up to 143bhp, closer-ratio ’box 2000: 180bhp 340R circuit car, Track Pack option pushes power to 190bhp. Sport

2008: 218bhp supercharged Elise SC arrives, with six-speed gearbox 2010: Series 3 introduced. Base 1.6 has same 134bhp as outgoing 1.8.

S and S Cup get supercharged 1.8

2001: Series 2. 111S has 160bhp. 135R

2015: Base, S and S Cup. Comfort Pack adds central locking and soundproofing.

217bhp Cup 220 more track focused

(or Sport 111) and Sport 190 track cars

2016: 245bhp Cup 250 introduced

2005: Toyota units across range. 190bhp

2017: 250bhp Cup 260 arrives

111R replaces Rover-powered 111S 2007: Base Elise S has 134bhp and

2020: Range consists of 217bhp Sport 220 and 245bhp Cup 250

five-speed ’box. 111R renamed Elise R

2021: Production ceases

160 has 160bhp; Sport 190 has 190bhp

1.8-litre inline-four (Series 2 Elise R) Power: 189bhp Top speed: 148mph 0-60mph: 4.9 seconds Economy: 35mpg (est.)

1.8-litre supercharged inline-four (Series 3 Elise Cup 250) Power: 245bhp Top speed: 154mph 0-60mph: 3.9 seconds Economy: 35mpg (est.)

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £10,000 Good: £17,000 Excellent: £29,000 (1998 Series 1)

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BUYING GUIDE

1989–2005

Mazda MX-5 NA and NB

‘The formula that made the MX-5 such a hit was a simple one… front engine, rear drive and lightweight’

The first two versions of Mazda’s miniature marvel are the purest – and therefore the best

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all-round independent double-wishbone suspension helped keep the car planted in corners. The sub-1000kg kerbweight meant that even the base 1.6-litre engine provided ample thrust.

A logically laid-out cabin with just the bare essentials rounded off the package, and Mazda’s resultant model became an international sales success like no other roadster before or since. The firstgeneration cars remained in production for some years, and while the basic underpinnings remained largely the same, a 1.8-litre engine was introduced in 1994 and numerous special-edition models were also released along the way.

The NB model was launched in 1998.

While mechanically very similar to the

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE ORIGINAL MAZDA MX-5 may seem like an obvious recipe for success in hindsight, but when it first came to market in 1989 there hadn’t been a decent new roadster on sale for almost a decade. Most options had been relics from the golden age of the British sports car, so the timing for a modern interpretation couldn’t have been better.

The formula that made the MX-5 NA such a hit was a rather simple one. It stuck to the traditional front-engine, rearwheel-drive roadster layout, which also gave the car near-perfect 50:50 weight distribution. An all-steel bodyshell with a longitudinal truss was used, which went a long way to reducing chassis flex, while

Despite the interiors being well made, the MX-5’s sheer age means the trim can now look tired.

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NA, it was slightly wider and more aerodynamically efficient. The cute popup headlamps were replaced with fixed items, and the 1.8-litre engine was upgraded to include Mazda’s Variable Intake Control system (among other tweaks) and produce 180bhp. Europe and Japan still received the 1.6-litre model.

2001’s facelift saw the arrival of minor aesthetic tweaks both inside and out, including more supportive seats. The body was strengthened, and the 1.8-litre engine was beefed up, courtesy of variable valve timing. Non-North Americanmarket cars now produced 152bhp. The UK’s Sport model also received larger brakes, extra chassis bracing, a limitedslip differential, Bilstein suspension, a

six-speed transmission and leather seats.

Martin Dooner, owner of MX5City (www.mx5city.com), is emphatic about the little Mazda’s appeal: “Put simply it’s the way they go round corners. They’re not the fastest, but for the fun factor, they’re ten out of ten.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Both 1.6 and 1.8-litre powerplants are capable of big mileages if they are serviced regularly. Oil leaks are not uncommon, but these can generally be traced to perished gaskets. “NAs and NBs tend to be unbelievably reliable – they’re pretty much bombproof,” says Martin.

Timing belts should ideally be replaced every 60,000 miles, while oil changes

should not extend beyond 10,000 miles at the very most. Check for a loose or wobbly crank pulley when the engine is running, and if you hear knocking or whining noises then have the timing belt and water pump investigated as well.

If an NA continues to sound tappety for more than a few minutes, it could be that an oil change is in order, or there’s a damaged hydraulic lash adjuster (HLA).

A misfire could be down to faulty HT leads or the coil pack.

Some cars may have had aftermarket air filters and cams fitted, as well as other performance-enhancing modifications carried out. As long as the work was done by a reputable specialist, this should not be an issue. “There are an awful lot of

modified cars out there, some better than others,” Martin explains. Turbo and supercharger conversions are popular, too, and the same criteria applies.

However, beware that the extra power can shorten the lifespan of the drivetrain.

UK-specification NA cars came as standard with a five-speed manual transmission, while some Eunos imports had a four-speed automatic ’box. Both units are well up to the job, and issues such as leaking slave cylinders and worn clutch-release bearings are not overly expensive to rectify.

“Gearboxes are bulletproof – even the automatics,” says Martin. “Exceptionally high-mileage examples start to whine, but they don’t break prematurely.”

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SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The standard suspension set-up is robust, but have a look for seized brake calipers, cracked rubber bushes and corroded front-suspension arms. Seized calipers are common, so check the temperature of the wheels after a test drive. Handbrakes will also often need adjusting.

Oversized wheels can detrimentally affect the ride, as well as put additional strain on the wheel bearings. “Mazda spent millions designing the car to work on 14in/15in wheels,” says Martin. “Fitting 16in/17in wheels spoils the handling.”

The brakes are fine for fast road use, and don’t need much attention aside from periodic pad changes: “Aftermarket discs and pads can improve performance, but the standard ones are very good because the Mazda is a very light car.”

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Mazda may have built hundreds of thousands of these MX-5s, but rust has trimmed down numbers over the years.

Make sure to look for corrosion around the side sills, window frames, wheelarches – particularly rear – boot and footwells.

NBs in particular suffer from rot in the chassis rails, largely thanks to a crumplezone redesign that created a moisture trap.

“It’s an easy repair, and not as major as sorting the sills,” says Martin. “It’s a couple of days’ work and parts are easy to find.”

While front-wing rust isn’t too much of a worry, as the panels bolt on and off, any 124

tin worm from the B-panel back is a big concern: “It’s where the car gets all its strength, via three vertical panels, and they suffer rust at the bottom,” says Martin. “It’s not a cheap job to sort out – it’s a week’s worth of welding to put right. The key thing to ensure is that any car is rust free in the rear sill and arch area, because this often makes NBs in particular uneconomic to restore.”

Uneven panel gaps, mismatched paint and overspray can all point to previous accident damage. Dodgy gaps can also be caused by poor fitment (although not from the factory), because there is a lot of adjustment in the panel fit.

The interior trim is prone to wear after so many years, especially in cases where the roof has often been left down. “The cabins are reasonably well made, yet they’re starting to look tired now,” says Martin. “Door panels suffer the worst.”

The electronics are reliable, but check that all the buttons and switches work.

Slow-operating electric windows may require replacement bushes, or simply a good clean of the glass runners. Damp carpets can indicate a worn soft-top; replacements for both are available.

WHICH TO BUY Mazda’s MX-5 NA was sold as the Eunos Roadster in Japan, and a number have been brought into the UK. While they may have been grey imports, there is nothing wrong with them, and many have higher

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

specs than the officially sold cars. Rust, missed services and suspect modifications are the main things you should avoid here, because although MX-5s were built in huge numbers, good examples are increasingly hard to come by.

Outright speed is not the point of the MX-5, but the 1.8 models do offer more torque and so are more responsive at lower revs. The 115bhp 1.6 is still a great car, but these units did drop to 88bhp in 1994 when the 1.8 was introduced.

Something else you might want to avoid are the handful of auto Eunos models out there. They are generally cheaper than other variants, but for good reason.

“There are few special editions, but they are all fundamentally the same underneath,” says Martin. “Whether you go for an NB or an NA depends on your budget. NAs cost more because they’re firm classics now, as opposed to the NB where there are a few cheap ones around.”

He suggests the more civilised NB is better for daily driving, but foresees value increases as more cars are scrapped. “For weekend fun, the NA is the best investment as prices continue to rise,” he says. “It ticks all the boxes for a classic, but unlike an MGB you don’t have to fix it every week.”

The majority of first-generation models are still in the very affordable category.

Even limited-edition variants with low mileages are keenly priced, so spend as much as you can afford and get ready to become an MX-5 convert.

MODEL HISTORY 1989: First-generation Mazda MX-5 NA introduced. European variants get 115bhp 1.6-litre powerplant with five-speed manual gearbox 1990: Special-edition 152bhp BBR Turbo model launched. Just 850 built until production ends following year 1994: 129bhp 1.8-litre motor replaces 115bhp 1.6; 88bhp 1.6 introduced as entry-level option in UK for insurance purposes. Optional limited-slip diff changes from viscous to Torsen type.

M editions introduced 1996: 1.8-litre motor upgraded to 132bhp

NB model was wider and had suspension tweaks and upgraded engines. It no longer sported the original car’s popup headlamps.

1997: MX-5 NA production ends, having incorporated numerous special-edition models. Notable variants include M-edition cars, sold from 1994-1997: these examples have unique exterior colours, and most come with limitedslip differential as standard 1998: NB model launched - wider and more civilised via suspension tweaks, it is notable for losing original’s pop-up headlamps. Engines remain 1.6 and 1.8, but upgraded for new car 1999: 10th Anniversary model launched with six-speed manual gearbox, Bilstein dampers, LSD and bespoke trim.

600 come to UK officially

SPECIFICATIONS 1.6-litre inline-four (NA) Power: 88-115bhp Top speed: 126mph 0-60mph: 8.3 seconds Economy: 35mpg

1.6-litre inline-four (NB) Power: 108bhp Top speed: 119mph 0-60mph: 9.7 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

1.8-litre inline-four (NA) Power: 129-133bhp Top speed: 130mph (est.)

0-60mph: 8.0 seconds Economy: 35mpg

1.8-litre inline-four (NB) Power: 144bhp Top speed: 127mph 0-60mph: 8.5 seconds Economy: 35mpg (est.)

2001: NB facelifted with minor interior and exterior aesthetic tweaks. UK Sport model adds bigger wheels, larger brakes, Bilstein suspension, leather seats, chassis stiffening and LSD. 1.8-litre upgraded to include variable valve timing 2005: Production ceases, to be replaced by all-new NC MX-5 INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £2200 Good: £3700 Excellent: £6900 (1993 1.6)

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BUYING GUIDE

1963–1971

Mercedes-Benz W113 Pagoda SL The Pagoda blends elegance with engineering depth to great effect. Few cars are this chic yet dependable

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classic and vintage feel. It’s both heavily chromed and beautifully stylish.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The engines are dependable if well maintained, but need patience when starting up. “Pagodas take two to three revolutions to start from cold,” says Bruce.

The mechanical fuel-injection system can be costly to replace if it goes wrong.

Listen out for engine bangs or splutters; the injectors could be blocked or rusty.

Once started, the motor should warm up quickly. If not, the thermostat may have been removed to disguise an overheating problem. Hot running can also be caused by head-gasket issues, of which misfires are another symptom. If

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE PAGODA WAS THE creation of famous French designer Paul Bracq, who worked for Mercedes-Benz and styled some of the brand’s most glamorous and desirable models.

As well as looking the part, the ‘Pagoda’ SL was an innovative car. It had fuel injection, aluminium door shells and bonnet, disc brakes and the option of power steering. Its refinement, elegant body, exquisite build quality and decent performance meant it quickly gained favour with the rich and famous, and it set a template for the SLs that followed.

Bruce Greetham of The SL Shop (www.theslshop.com) explains: “It’s the perfect balance of SL that carries the

Cabin parts are plentiful but can be expensive. Seats were trimmed in MB Tex vinyl or leather.

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the engine temperature continues to climb once the car is warm, the radiator could be clogged. It is essential to use a high quality antifreeze at the correct level; the engine block is steel, while the head is aluminium, so internal corrosion is a risk. “The viscous fan sometimes doesn’t kick in,” adds Bruce.

On the move, blue smoke is a sign of worn valve-stem seals. The oil should be replaced every 3000 miles to prevent internal wear and prolong the life of the engine. Regular changes help keep the fuel-injection pump in good order.

“The 280 model can overheat a bit more because it’s bored out, which makes the water galleries close,” says Bruce. “The 230 is more revvy because it’s a five-bearing

‘SL’s refinement, elegance, quality and performance meant it gained favour with the rich and famous’

crank not a seven-bearing one as with the others. It’s also not quite as refined.”

Most Pagodas come with automatic transmissions. Both the auto and the four-speed manual are resilient, but they aren’t immune to wear or issues. “Ensure the pressure settings on the automatic are set up properly,” says Bruce. “Otherwise the ’boxes will become ‘grumpy’, changing too early or too late.” The manual version shouldn’t be especially noisy, jump out of gear or offer a crunchy, difficult shift.

Prospective owners should check for gearbox leaks; if the oil runs low, damage to the internals is inevitable. If either ’box does need refurbishing, the job is relatively straightforward but expensive.

Propshaft couplings and universal

joints can wear. A thudding sound from the rear can indicate this, but it could also point to worn differential mountings, which are expensive to sort out. “The centre bearing on the propshaft can wear, too,” adds Bruce. A whiny diff probably means a costly rebuild.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Dampers can wear out, so look for weeping on the struts as well as an unrefined ride. The suspension’s kingpins, trunnions and nipples all need regular lubrication, ideally every 3000 miles. On the bright side, replacements are relatively affordable. Play in the wheels when the car is jacked up indicates problems.

Power steering was a popular option on

the Pagoda. The car handles far better with this fitted, but you should take care to look for hydraulic leaks.

“Brakes were discs all round, other than on the 230SL, which had rear drums,” says Bruce. Check the condition of the lines; if these have perished or are leaking, it will affect the car’s stopping power.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The SL was famous for its superb build quality and attention to detail. Panel gaps should be uniform and tight. Many panels were stamped with the build number.

Cross referencing this is a good way to determine vehicle originality.

Finding a sound body is crucial. Its monocoque is prone to rusting, and cars

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MODEL HISTORY 1963: 230SL production begins. 2.3-litre six-cylinder engine matched to either four-speed manual or four-speed auto 1965: Soft-top design altered 1966: 250SL launched with 2.5-litre straight-six; power remains same but torque grows a little. Rear discs fitted as standard, bigger fuel tank and choice of all three gearboxes; limited-slip differential optional. Five-speed manual made available for 230SL that seem immaculate on the outside can still have structural corrosion. The sills, boot floor, floorpan, chassis rails and members, wheelarches and jacking points are all common areas for rot, so do look underneath the car, and under the carpets, too. The aluminium bonnet, door skins and bootlid can also corrode.

Wearing 20kg of paint from the factory, Pagodas were known for their high-quality finish. To see whether yours still has its original paint, check the ‘notches’ on the insides of the headlights; if missing, the car has probably been to a bodyshop. If you’re looking for an original car, check for paint runs from the factory: “The inside of the bonnet was always body coloured, and the inside of the bootlid was black,” says Bruce. “If you see paint runs, it’s a good way to see if they’re original panels.”

Most (but not all) SLs had the Pagoda hardtop. Check its condition and the state of the mounting points. Also ensure that the soft-top is crisp and watertight. The SL originally came with a chrome tool to secure the fabric roof in place. These often go missing and are replaced by less desirable alternatives. If originality is a concern, ensure it’s present.

Cabin parts availability is good, but they can be expensive to buy and fit. Check that the gauges and electrical systems work well. The heater handles are plastic and can become brittle and snap.

The SL was trimmed in either MB Tex vinyl or leather. Be wary that some owners 128

may think their car has hide when it is in fact vinyl. Leather trim often has more patina than its vinyl counterparts.

Carpets have been replaced in many cars. A stitched trim around the gear gaiter is a tell-tale sign; the factory trim was rubber. “Carpets had a different pile to those from later years,” says Bruce. “If you’re looking at a concours car, make sure it has carpets from the right era.”

Wooden dash-top trim can deteriorate, and the top of the windscreen can often be scratched from fitting the hardtop.

1967: 230SL production ceases. 250SL receives collapsible steering wheel among other interior tweaks to meet stricter safety laws in US. 280SL launched in December with 2.8-litre straight-six; most cars are auto, and only 882 people choose either four or five-speed manual.

California Coupé option launched with 2+2 bodystyle; features removable hardtop and no soft-top 1968: 250SL production ceases 1969: Five-speed gearbox dropped; heated rear window available

WHICH TO BUY

1970: Fuchs alloy wheels now optional

The Pagoda was once considered an affordable classic, but these days you should expect to pay a considerable sum.

The savings on a car at the cheaper end of the scale pale in comparison to the expense of restoring it to its former glory.

Spend as much as you can to secure a decent example and avoid future expense.

The priority should be a rust-free car with a high level of originality and an unambiguous history. “The 280 is best,” says Bruce. “It has softer suspension, and is bit more responsive and refined. It’s also the most desirable model among collectors.”

1971: 280SL production ceases

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £45,000 Good: £60,000 Excellent: £80,000 (1968 280SL)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

SPECIFICATIONS 2.3-litre inline-six (230SL) Power: 148bhp (claimed) Top speed: 124mph 0-60mph: 10.5 seconds Economy: 25mpg (est.)

2.5-litre inline-six (250SL) Power: 148bhp Top speed: 124mph 0-60mph: 9.5 seconds (est.)

Economy: 25mpg (est.)

2.8-litre inline-six (280SL) Power: 168bhp Top speed: 124mph 0-60mph: 8.5 seconds (est.)

Economy: 25mpg (est.)

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1994 –2004

Mercedes-Benz SLK (R170) With a three-stage folding hardtop as its party piece, the original 1990s SLK was an innovator. You do have to exercise caution when buying one, however…

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HE SLK – OR R170 IN Mercedes-Benz code – began life as a 1994 concept seen at that year’s Paris Motor Show. Its party piece was its all-metal folding VarioRoof, which retracted in three stages and stowed neatly in the boot. That gave the model the comfort of a coupé in the winter and the ability to lift your toupée in the summer – the best of both worlds.

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At launch in late 1996, there was just one model. The 230 Kompressor featured a 2.3-litre supercharged unit with 193bhp, and was offered with either a five-speed automatic or a five-speed manual ’box.

The range evolved from there, but the SLK 230 was always the best seller, thanks to its combination of decent performance and sensible running costs. A normally aspirated 2.0-litre SLK 200 was offered in

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

some Euro markets, but never in the UK. In 2000, Mercedes gave the SLK a facelift and expanded the range. It also took time to improve the build quality, which had been especially patchy on early cars. The fresh models introduced at this time included a new flagship – the SLK 320 featuring a normally aspirated 3.2litre V6 with 218bhp – and an SLK 200 Kompressor that produced 163bhp.

There were also revised bumpers and mirrors, sill covers and cabin-trim changes, with some LCD instruments in a new dash. A six-speed manual ’box was made standard, as was ESP stability control. The SLK AMG 32 came along in 2001, with tuned suspension, uprated brakes and a hand-built 349bhp 3.2-litre twin-plug supercharged V6. It addressed criticisms of the standard SLK’s lack of sparkle.

The R170 was discontinued in 2004, but the platform and running gear carried on until 2008 in the Chrysler Crossfire.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX All four-cylinder SLKs use the Mercedes M111 engine, which is chain driven and

BUYING GUIDE

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES In terms of running gear, there are no specific common issues to the SLK that you wouldn’t find on any contemporary car. But with even the newest examples being 18 years old, ball-joints, bushes and other components often show signs of wear due to age as well as mileage.

“Subframe bushes should be given close attention,” says Jay. “If these require changing, it is at least a day’s work for a garage to replace all four. We would also recommend always using genuine Mercedes braking parts; they are good value, and we never have any comeback from them, unlike with some marginally cheaper pattern parts.”

Steering-damper replacement is usually required at 100,000 miles – tell-tales are wandering or vibration from the steering.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The body is very much the R170’s Achilles’ heel. The car comes from an era when Mercedes was boosting its eco-credentials by using new water-based paints, which unfortunately came at the expense of rust prevention. Most of the brand’s 1990s models suffer from dramatic rot as a result, and the R170 is one of the worst.

While underbody corrosion is usually less of an issue, sadly the upper panels can succumb to rust, especially around the arches, doors and lower sills. Although much of this isn’t structural, it can be unsightly and very expensive to put right.

Cabin materials are strong and hard wearing in the truest Mercedes-Benz tradition, and they usually still look good with mileages well into six figures. And then there’s the party piece – that VarioRoof. You’ll never tire of watching it do its thing; it’s a work of engineering genius.

Amazingly it’s usually pretty reliable, too.

WHICH TO BUY With the exception of the AMG, which has a very strong following all of its own, the golden rule for buying any SLK is to make your decision based on condition alone. The SLK 230 is a bit quicker than the SLK 200, but if you find the latter with really good bodywork, you shouldn’t discount it. The SLK 320 tends to attract a more discerning market, but again condition is the most important thing.

There seems to be a huge variation in rust resilience, too. While post-2000 cars are generally an improvement on early ones, some are much better than others.

Those finished in darker metallics tend to hold up better than lighter or solid colours.

The gulf between the good and the bad is growing. Two or three years ago, all R170s were cheap, but that’s not the case anymore, and the really good examples are starting to command strong money.

They’re worth it, too, because you will need a lot of cash to put a bad one right.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £1500 Good: £4000 Excellent: £7000

MAGIC CAR PICS

generally extremely strong. According to Jay Manek of R170 specialist Mercland (www.mercland.com): “We’ve seen one or two timing-chain issues, but most are down to either tensioners failing or lobes on the drive sprockets wearing, causing slipping of the chain. Early stages should cause the engine-warning dash lamp to illuminate, bringing up a fault relating to timing such as ‘camshaft position fault’.”

He continues: “On the M111 engine, the variable-timing gear is prone to issues. If there is a rattle when the unit is revved, this indicates a problem with the timingadvance mechanism. This could be down to a failing magnet, a relatively cheap fix, or it could require replacement of the complete timing-adjuster mechanism – a £1000-plus job if using new parts.”

More common reasons for the engine light illuminating is an intake air leak or mass-airflow sensor (MAF) issue. The cause can be as simple as a perished hose, or can require an intake-manifold stripdown to find the fault. In some cases, a modified air intake is required to relocate the mass-airflow sensor. This modification is reported to provide around a 4-5bhp improvement as well as fixing the issue.

A failing MAF also results in sluggish acceleration, so it is easy to diagnose.

The V6 engine is generally trouble free, other than for regular wear-and-tear items.

Both a hardtop and a drop-top – MercedesBenz’s SLK gives the best of both worlds.

MODEL HISTORY 1994: Mercedes-Benz shows SLK Vario-Roof concept at Paris Motor Show 1996: Production finally begins. SLK proves so popular that it commands 15-month waiting list 2000: SLK facelifted, with new 2.0-litre four-cylinder and 3.2-litre V6 engines in addition to existing supercharged 2.3 four 2001: SLK AMG appears, with revised suspension and 349bhp 2004: Production ends, with 311,000 sold around globe

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

161bhp 139mph 8.2 seconds 31mpg

2.3-litre Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

194bhp 149mph 7.2 seconds 28mpg

3.2-litre Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

215bhp 150mph 6.9 seconds 25mpg

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

131

BUYING GUIDE

1955–1962

MGA MG’s first post-war export success – and the brand’s ultimate separate-chassised sports car – outsold the TR2 and TR3 (and made the 356 look overpriced, too)

I

T’S OFTEN SAID THAT RACING improves the breed – and as MG T-series roadster exports fell in the early 1950s, a solution to a problem faced by a Le Mans competitor provided the basis of a new car for the brand.

Enthusiast racer George Philips wanted more from his TD along the Mulsanne straight, so in 1951 he got MG’s chief engineer Syd Enever to design a streamlined body for the model’s chassis.

While the car itself dropped out on the 80th lap, the efficacy of its body hadn’t gone unnoticed. The decision was made to develop the idea – and now part of the BMC empire, MG had access to Austin’s recently uprated 1.5-litre B-series engine as used in the Magnette ZA. This meant dropping the T-series’ XPAG units, which were at the end of their development life.

In 1955, the MGA 1500 roadster and

‘1955 MGA was an instant export success, but the high-performance Twin Cam didn’t arrive until 1958’

coupé were revealed to the world; it was an instant export success, but a highperformance variant – the Twin Cam – didn’t arrive for another three years. Using a special, high-compression, 1588cc, double-overhead-cam version of the B-series, peak power leapt from 72bhp to 108bhp. Sadly, poor-quality fuel and badly briefed service bays meant that just 2111 Twin Cams, fraught with detonation and holed pistons, were produced until 1960.

In 1959 came a major update for the standard MGA; the Twin Cam’s engine, now with a conventional overhead-valve head, went on sale. It had front disc brakes, too. The 1600 Mk1, as it became known, spawned a special, scarce variant as left-over stocks of Twin Cam parts were run down in 1960. This De Luxe paired the 1600’s OHV B-series with the Twin Cam’s chassis and four-wheel

Dunlop-Girling disc brakes; some got that model’s special, centre-line knock-off Dunlop wheels. Fewer than 100 of the 1600 De Luxes were made, however.

As 1600 De Luxe production ended the same year, the 1600 Mk2 was ready. With another De Luxe variant, this saw the MGA out until the 1.8-litre, monocoque MGB was ready in 1962. These final cars boasted an inset grille, taillight units from the BMC Mini, and a 1622cc iteration of the B-series engine.

MAGIC CAR PICS

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

Evolution of the cabin means today’s driver can pick and choose which set-up best suits them.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

If you’re sizing up a standard car, expect oil leaks, especially around the back of the engine where it joins to the gearbox. Many examples will have had uprated cooling

systems fitted by now, including a stronger radiator cap and electric fans in order to cope with modern traffic.

David Eales, director of Oselli (www. oselli.com), says: “The biggest issue with the three-bearing [1500 and 1600] engines is they pour oil from everywhere, especially the rear main oil seal. They don’t have a seal, they have a scroll that draws the oil back in. The cranks and scrolls wear, and now the engines are worn out they leak oil everywhere and you’ll never fully cure it.

Apart from that, it’s just wear and tear.”

On a test drive, if a 1500 or 1600 engine vibrates above 3500rpm, that’s normal.

“The crank is flexing [owing to fewer bearings] above those revs; there’s a real difference between the three- and the

five-bearing motor – and you can feel it under your foot,” David explains.

The rare (and troublesome in period) Twin Cam models aren’t as bad now as they were at launch; properly rebuilt, and with an uprated cooling and ignition system (not to mention modern fuel) they can run without significant issues – although access for work is poor.

“There’s no room in the engine bay, and they run pretty hot,” says David. “Fuelwise, you need to shoot for a minimum of 98 octane; you’ll get away with loweroctane petrol only for a very short time.”

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES “I find the lever-arm dampers front and rear to be quite acceptable in service,”

David says. “You can rebuild them, but in good order they work very well. I wouldn’t replace them. If you do, you change the car’s characteristics; it becomes a lot more jiggly to drive and skips around a bit.”

When sizing up a potential buy, ask the owners what suspension the car is fitted with. If it has altered telescopic shocks instead of the originals, try to drive a standard car to see which you prefer.

“It’s the same at the back; I seem to run adjustable telescopics at their softest setting,” David says. Check the rubber bushes, as most originals will have gone soft. Oselli tends to fit uprated leaf-spring saddle bushes at the rear, and stronger kingpin and polyurethane ones at the front.

Brakes aren’t troublesome – but many

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

133

MG’s diminutive sportster was available in roadster and coupé styles from 1955–1962.

MODEL HISTORY

owners upgrade cars to front discs. Well maintained, the all-drum set-up gives little trouble, fade aside, and parts are available to recondition and rebuild it.

The four-wheel Dunlop-Girling disc system fitted to the Twin Cam and some De Luxe models is like set-ups used by the Jensen 541R and Jaguar XK150; most parts are available, albeit at a cost.

Upgrade kits will allow you to standardise parts and braking performance later.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR As David says: “The body and chassis can be a minefield.” The wings bolt on, so be wary of any car with welded-on items.

Replacements are rare, although older ‘drystate’ items are still available in the US. “You can get repros, but they don’t fit very well,” adds David. Wings rot out at the bottom edges, near the headlights and especially around the wheelarches; many cars will have had repair sections grafted in and filled over – ditto the chassis and other body panels. Expect corrosion at all four corners where water and dirt are thrown up and can be left sitting. “The boot floors are very weak, and they can rot away to nothing,” David says.

A car needs to have the body lifted off the chassis to be termed ‘fully restored’; the platform itself can have accident damage or poorly repaired box sections where the body has been left on the car.

“Body-wise, buy the best you can within your budget,” advises David. Check around 134

the grille and radiator supports for ripples – it’s a give-away the car has hit something.

Cabin parts are readily available, but check which seat design fits you best, especially if you’re tall. The 1500 used a lower-positioned seat mounted closer to the floor than the 1622cc and Twin Cam. “The interiors can be sorted on a DIY basis,” says David. “I prefer the earlier 1500 driving position but not the 1500 seat; we tend to change those to the later, more thickly padded, fluted design.”

WHICH TO BUY David’s ultimate MGA would be one converted to take a later, five-bearing MGB engine and other mods to help it handle modern roads. If the budget won’t stretch to this, try to find a car with a fivespeed ’box and front disc brakes, at least.

David says: “I’d fit a five-speeder; we’ve offered the Ford Sierra Type 9 for years, but the Mazda MX-5 ’box now available is superb. It brings the MGA up to modern motoring; in a standard 1500 or 1600 you are doing 4000rpm at 70mph, and in those three-bearing engines you feel it through the car on fast roads. When carrying out a restoration, after the engine and ’box it’s all down to personal taste.”

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £20,000 Good: £30,000 Excellent: £35,000 (Twin Cam)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1955: 1500 launched, with drum brakes all round and 1489cc B-series engine.

Hardtop ‘coupé’ also offered. Itinerant power increases from 68bhp to 72bhp 1958: New high-performance, highcompression, 108bhp Twin Cam unveiled.

Special DOHC 1588cc B-series allows for sub-ten-second 0-60mph, with fourwheel Dunlop-Girling disc brakes and knock-off steel wheels. Temperamental in service, with many suffering from detonation and burnt pistons owing to low-octane fuel usage; 2111 built in total 1959: 1600 Mk1 introduced; standard OHV version of Twin Cam’s 1588cc engine. Front discs fitted as standard 1960-1961: Lower-compression Twin Cam introduced, and Twin Cam line slow seller owing to mechanical issues - run down; 1600 De Luxe introduced as 1600 Mk1 and De Luxe phased out; new car makes use of left-over Twin Cam chassis and four-wheel disc brakes.

1622cc B-series introduced to create 1600 Mk2 and Mk2 De Luxe. Both variants of 1600 Mk2 get small facelift - an inset grille and brake/indicator rear lights taken from contemporary BMC Mini 1962: Production run down as MGB arrives

SPECIFICATIONS 1.6-litre four (Twin Cam) Power: 108bhp Top speed: 113mph 0-60mph: 9.1 seconds Economy: 26mpg

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BUYING GUIDE

1958–1979

MG Midget/ Austin-Healey Sprite A merger of two marques led to this riotously fun baby roadster that’s still hugely loved today

T

the car was redesigned with an MG front end, and sold wearing the octagonal badge.

The resulting car, the MG Midget, made its debut in 1961, alongside the AustinHealey Sprite Mk2. Both cars had a squarer body, with separate front wings and a more conventional bonnet. The little 948cc engine, meanwhile, received bigger carbs for more sprightly performance.

A 1098cc variant of the trusty BMC A-series engine was introduced in 1963, while in 1967 the 1275cc Mini Cooper S motor was adapted for the Sprite and Midget. British Leyland’s cost cutting

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE CUTE AUSTIN-HEALEY ‘Frogeye’ Sprite is the definition of ‘more than the sum of its parts’. An Austin A30/A35 would give up its engine, rear axle, front suspension and gearbox, while the Minor would donate the steering and a slightly tuned engine, developed by Morris. The Sprite’s low weight and thus nimble handling, as well as a cheap purchase price, made it a smash hit from its 1958 launch.

Austin had no room to build it, however, so it was constructed by MG at Abingdon.

MG, meanwhile, needed a boost and so

Simple approach means there’s little to go wrong in the cabin, and everything’s available, too.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Frogeye is one of the all-time greats and is a desirable little classic – and its prices can reflect that’

reared its head in 1970, which saw the removal of a lot of the shiny brightwork, replaced by matt-black trim, while the car’s sills were painted satin black. In 1971, the arrangement between AustinHealey and MG had finished, and the final 1022 cars were badged as Austin Sprites.

In 1972 the Midget received round wheelarches instead of the squared-off ones seen on earlier cars. RWA Midgets, as these are known, are popular in competition, as the open arches allow them to wear bigger and wider tyres.

The Midget was revised to meet US safety legislation in late 1974 for the ’75 model year, which meant it received a pair of black impact bumpers similar to those fitted to the MGB. The square

rear wheelarches made a comeback, too, because the Midget had to be raised over an inch to meet the federal rules, which would otherwise have left an unsightly gap over the back tyres.

The 1275cc engine simply couldn’t be detuned enough to satisfy American emissions rules, so in went the 1493cc Triumph motor as used in the Dolomite and Spitfire, which met the regulations.

Production came to an end in 1979.

“They’re sheer, absolute fun to drive on small country lanes, and economical, too – you can get 45mpg if they’re tuned properly,” says Steve Hall of MG specialist Hall’s Garage (www.hallsgarage.co.uk).

“They are easy to maintain, and there’s great spares and club support.”

ENGINES AND GEARBOX The Sprite and Midget used the BMC A-series until 1975, and it’s a robust engine that gives little in the way of major trouble, other than general wear and tear.

Excessive breathing and heavy oil consumption are known problems, which can indicate worn cylinder bores, headgasket failure or overheating. Timingchain rattle is common, too, but the A-series can go on forever like this: “The motor is a good old slogger,” says Steve.

The power delivery on later Triumphpowered models is very different – it’s all at the bottom end, and they can suffer from crankshaft wear if over revved.

“Every time you put your foot on the clutch, it loads the crankshaft, which has

only one [thrust] washer; it’s taking twice the amount of wear of a normal crank,” says Steve. Rumbling from the bottom of the engine can indicate big-end bearing failure. Overheating can also be an issue: “The 1.5 was okay in the original Triumphs because there was plenty of room, but in the Midget and Sprite there’s insufficient airflow around the sump. We recommend fitting an oil cooler.”

The gearbox is short and snappy in all ‘Spridgets’, and although pre-1964 cars lack synchro on first this isn’t a problem once you get used to it. ’Boxes are pretty robust, but don’t expect refinement: “They are notoriously noisy in first and reverse, due to straight-cut gears,” says Steve.

The Midget 1500’s Triumph gearbox is

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

137

Earlier, chrome-fronted Midgets are arguably more pleasing to the eye than the later rubber-bumpered cars, but all provide many smiles per mile.

more fragile; not disastrously so, but it has a far less sporty feel, while bearing wear is a known issue. Listen for a whining or droning noise when pulling away.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Pre-1964 Sprites and Midgets have quarter-elliptic leaf springs. These provide an incredibly harsh ride, but also bless the car with terrific roadholding. The set-up was changed to semi-elliptic in 1964, which puts far less harshness through the body tub and gives a much more compliant ride. Post-1964 cars are a lot less susceptible to cracked floorpans and spring-hanger mounts as a result.

Otherwise, everything running-gear related is pretty straightforward, and there are a variety of improvements on offer via specialists. The 1500 Midgets can suffer from wooden-feeling brakes: “It’s a dual-circuit system, which means you can’t fit a servo,” explains Steve.

Brakes upgrades are available; he says Greenstuff pads are quite common.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR To begin the corrosion-seeking odyssey on these cars, start at the front and check the lower valance panel; it’s particularly vulnerable to rot, along with the lower sections of the front wings.

Rust is often found at the back of the wings and the front part of the sills; any rot here is a major issue, because the

138

bulkhead where the two meet is an important part of the car’s structure. “If you see openings in the sills, inner sills and transmission tunnel, any weaknesses there alter your door gaps,” says Steve.

Corrosion can easily find its way to the A-pillars, which are a stressed area and a water trap. The similarly structurally significant sills can rot quite badly – although repairs are fairly straightforward due to the flat-surfaced nature of the car.

The rear-spring mountings at the back of the rear bulkhead are of paramount concern, and getting the car in the air to have a good look is highly recommended.

Collapsed spring-box mountings or an uneven ride height indicate more worrying trouble beneath.

Rust in the bottom of the rear wings is common, but not structural. However, any corrosion in the boot floor is more of a concern. Frogeye Sprite bonnets can rot pretty badly, and this is an expensive panel to replace or repair; many have had glassfibre panels fitted instead.

Of the cabin, Steve says: “There’s not a lot to go wrong, because there’s so little inside a Sprite or Midget. There are no issues with trim – everything’s available.”

not least because MG specialists have amassed a mountain of spares.

“My choice would be a ‘round rear wheelarch’ 1275, which were made for two years,” advises Steve.

The Midget 1500 is often seen as the poor relation, but it’s not without merit.

As a long-distance tourer it’s a lot more comfortable than the earlier models while still being cheap to own and run, and it is less expensive to buy in the first place.

However, it’s hard not to be drawn to a 1275cc Midget or Sprite from 1967 onwards – each journey will leave you with a smile as wide as the car.

WHICH TO BUY

Midget 1500 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

The Frogeye Sprite is one of the all-time greats and is a desirable little classic – and the prices it can command reflect that.

However, later models are easier to own,

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

SPECIFICATIONS 1958 Frogeye Sprite Power: 43bhp Top speed: 83mph 0-60mph: 21 seconds Economy: 43mpg 1967 Midget Mk3 Power: 65bhp Top speed: 90mph 0-60mph: 14.1 seconds Economy: 40mpg

71bhp 95mph 12.1 seconds 39mpg

BUYING GUIDE

MODEL HISTORY 1958: Austin-Healey ‘Frogeye’ Sprite introduced, manufactured at MG factory in Abingdon, Oxfordshire 1961: MG launches its own version of Sprite, called MG Midget, with squarer bodywork and separate front wings.

At same time, Austin-Healey Sprite brought into line with same overall body shape but standalone front grille 1963: Original 948cc powerplant replaced by 1098cc unit from Austin/ Morris 1100 saloons 1964: Sprite Mk3 and Midget Mk2 appear with significant changes at rear end thanks to introduction of semi-elliptic leaf springs. At same time, cabin improvements introduced and first-gear synchromesh added 1967: All Sprites and Midgets get 1275cc engine from Mini Cooper S, giving useful performance boost 1970: British Leyland-influenced changes appear, with new wheels, blacked-out front grilles and black sills 1971: Austin-Healey Sprite becomes simply Austin Sprite after arrangement between BMC and Healey reaches end.

Only 1022 Austin Sprites sold before model ends altogether 1972: MG Midget Mk4 with round rear wheelarches appears 1975: MG Midget 1500 introduced, with impact-resistant rubberised plastic bumpers and raised ride height.

Engine comes from Triumph. Square wheelarches make comeback 1979: Production of MG Midget finally ceases at Abingdon

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Midget 1500 boasted impact-resistant bumpers, raised ride height and Triumph powerplant.

Fair: £3700 Good: £4800 Excellent: £6500 (1967 Midget 1275cc)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

139

BUYING GUIDE

1962–1980

MGB and MGB GT The MGB is the quintessential classic British sports car – and there’s good reason; it’s fun yet relatively easy to own

A

electrical system with an alternator in lieu of a dynamo. The MGC appeared the same year, equipped with Austin-Healey’s 3.0-litre C-series engine. These cars are identifiable by their bonnet humps.

British Leyland cost-cutting kicked in for the 1970 model year, with a cheaper, less delicate front grille and vinyl upholstery instead of leather. There were also Rostyle sports wheels and side finishers.

Rover V8s had been finding themselves in Bs for a while, most notably by Costello, and in 1973 MG got in on the act. The official BL model was offered only as a GT, and not for very long. The V8 died soon after launch, at a time when the MGB faced its biggest change in its history.

To comply with strict new US safety regulations, in 1974 the B’s ride height was increased and the front and rear ends clad in impact-absorbing rubber bumpers. The car’s weight increased by nearly 50kg, and

MAGIC CAR PICS

FFORDABLE, GREAT TO look at, simple to maintain and perennially popular, the MGB is one of the greatest classics you can choose. It’s been a staple of the classic sports car scene ever since the last car rolled off the Abingdon, Oxfordshire production line in late 1980.

Launched in 1962 with a new threebearing 95bhp 1798cc B-series engine, the MGB was equipped with a four-speed manual gearbox, with synchromesh on second, third and fourth ratios. The interior was upgraded in 1965, and the 1.8 B-series engine was given five main bearings instead of three. However, the big news for that year was the MGB GT – a fixed-head coupé version of the car with a top-hinged rear tailgate.

The MGB saw further changes in 1967, with a new rear axle, all-synchro gearbox with closer ratios and a negative-earth

Repro trim for the fairly basic two-seater cabin is easy to get hold of, but it’s of variable quality.

140

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

the handling was never as sharp again.

Ironically, the launch of this ‘inferior’ MGB coincided with the marque’s 50th anniversary, which saw a special-edition run of 75 green-and-gold Jubilee models to mark the occasion.

The final MGB left Abingdon in October 1980 after 18 years of production. The last 1000 cars off the line were special MGB LE models featuring unique silver or bronze paint, along with alloy wheels previously seen on the Triumph Stag.

“MGBs are a great starter classic,” says Alex Cother of MG specialist Beech Hill Garage (www.beechhillgarage.com).

“They’re easy to look after with basic tools and a degree of knowledge. Spares availability is great, and there’s a lot of help, advice and support available – it all means they’re easy to keep on the road.”

ENGINES AND GEARBOXES The BMC B-series has proven to be a resolute unit, with no major endemic problems. “Regular oil changes are advised even when doing low mileage,” says Alex.

“Not using the car doesn’t do the oil any good.” All but the lowest-mileage cars will have had an engine rebuild by now, mainly through general wear.

Worn piston rings and cylinder wear can lead to excessive oil consumption, a lot of smoke and low compression. The B-series is a relatively unstressed engine and will continue for ages like this, but a fix will be in order at some point.

“Entirely reconditioned powerplants are available on an exchange basis for around £2000-£2500,” Alex says.

A rumbling emanating from the bottom end of the engine means there’s wear in the crankshaft or main bearings, while a

‘Most popular are the chromebumper cars, although many later models have been converted’

With a multitude of upgrades available and a great parts supply, this most quintessential of sports cars should be an easy ownership proposition.

consistent rattle or a diesel-like idle suggest a worn or loose timing chain.

If left unattended, this can destroy the entire motor. Burned-out valves are also known to occur, leading to rough running and a loss of compression.

The B-series has always been well known for its tuning potential, and there are loads of performance-modification options available from specialists.

The standard four-speed transmission is a robust unit – in particular the later overdrive ones. Early Bs have often been converted to run such a gearbox. Unless you’re looking for absolute originality, it’s a very sensible conversion. This is also true of some of the aftermarket five-speed offerings, which improve the MGB’s cruising ability considerably. A word of warning from Alex: “Internal parts are now becoming difficult to get hold of for the earlier gearboxes.”

60 years of tuning tweaks and know-how from some of the world’s leading classic car specialists, so unless you’re a stickler for authenticity, a well modified and set up B is generally more desirable than a standard one. However, Alex has a caveat: “There are some poor-quality braking components around, and bleeding systems with aftermarket calipers can be quite a challenge,” he says. “Get factoryspec parts at the very least.”

You’ll often find upgraded disc brakes on MGBs, and there are no end of kits available, through both leading specialists and the two main clubs – the MG Car Club (www.mgcc.co.uk) and MG Owners’ Club (www.mgownersclub.co.uk).

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR MGBs love to rust, and it’s an area that should receive intense scrutiny during any

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES With semi-elliptic rear leaf springs and front lever-arm dampers, the B is a straightforward proposition underneath.

Modern telescopic dampers are a popular upgrade, and provide a sharper steering response and better handling.

“The suspensions we see are very often quite old and worn,” says Alex. “Most cars are now MoT exempt, so the suspension isn’t being checked as often as it was.”

Of course, the MGB is backed up with

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‘Late rubberbumper GTs are a great way to find out whether you like the classic car lifestyle without spending a fortune’

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

pre-purchase negotiation and inspection.

Look for uneven body seams or signs of cracks in the paint that could indicate a previous poorly performed filler repair, which could be hiding corrosion.

The sill structures including the inner sill and castle rail (the upper seam where it meets the floorpan) are your next hot spot. Rust bubbles around where the lower part of the wings and door frames meet the sills indicate that the inner sill structure is in a poor way.

Some cars have had over-sills fitted and various ‘bodges’ to squeeze them through another MoT. A lot of Bs have been restored by enthusiasts, so such examples are rarer these days, but there are still a few out there. If an MGB is grotty on top, it’ll be a lot more painful in the sections you can’t see. “Be prepared to walk away from a car with rotten sills unless you’re going to budget £2500 per side to have them redone,” Alex warns.

Corrosion can also be found in the front- and rear-wing top seams, and the bottom of the screen frame on GTs can rot, too, resulting in a labour-intensive repair. Scrutinise the trumpet sections of both front inner wings and the rear spring hangers, as rust can often be seen here.

It’s less of a concern if exterior trim or a replacement hood are required – they’re readily available and surprisingly affordable. While the expense is worth factoring into a deal, it shouldn’t ever be

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MODEL HISTORY 1962: MGB Roadster makes its debut, with non-synchromesh first gear and three-main-bearing engine 1965: MGB GT introduced 1965: New five-bearing version of B-series engine, plus cabin upgrades with internal pull handles 1967: MGB converted from dynamo to alternator, new stronger transmission, rear axle and all-synchromesh gearbox 1967: MGC appears with six-cylinder engine, as coupé or Roadster 1969: 1970 model-year cars appear, with vinyl trim, Rostyle sports wheels, side rubbing strips and British Leyland roundels on front wings 1973: Factory MGB GT V8 debuts 1974: ‘Rubber bumper’ MGB introduced with polyurethane beak, and suspension raised by 1.5 inches to meet federal laws.

Jubilee special edition launched

Whether you’re looking for a later, rubber-bumper car (top), a GT V8 (right) or a 3.0litre, six-cylinder MGC (above), there’s something for everyone with this Brit sports car.

1975: Overdrive transmission made standard across entire range 1980: Last-of-line MGB LE appears for limited run of 1000. Production finally ceases in October

SPECIFICATIONS

considered a deal-breaker. “Reproduction bonnets cost between £250-£1000, which means they are easy to buy – getting them to fit is another matter,” Alex says.

The cabin is pretty basic, with a matt black-painted dash, Smiths dials and, on later cars, a loudspeaker incorporated into the facia. “Trim is easy to get hold of, but it’s of variable quality,” Alex adds.

WHICH TO BUY The most popular MGBs are the chromebumper (pre-’74) cars, although many later models have since been converted from rubber. The earliest cars have the most collector appeal, but a 1970s example will

14 4

still be a thoroughly enjoyable and easy classic to own – if you buy carefully.

“I like late rubber-bumper GTs as a starter classic,” Alex says. “They cost just £4000-£5000, and are so practical you can use them every day. They’re a great way to find out whether you like the classic car lifestyle without spending a fortune.” Whichever B you buy, there’s a big smile due with every journey.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £4500 Good: £8000 Excellent: £14,000 (1970 GT Mk2)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1962 launch-spec Roadster Power: 94bhp Top speed: 100mph 0-60mph: 13.1 seconds Economy: 31mpg (est.)

1967 GT Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

92bhp 104mph 12.1 seconds 29mpg

1975 Roadster (rubber bumper) Power: 63bhp Top speed: 93mph 0-60mph: 13.9 seconds Economy: 30mpg

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BUYING GUIDE

1995–2012

MGF and TF MG’s mid-engined marvel won hearts and minds when new – and it continues to do so today

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sold Rover and MG to the Phoenix Consortium in 2000. The new TF, launched in 2001, was based on the same bodyshell, but with a new, pointier nose and a smarter interior. It had a new engine, too – a higher-output version of the VVC that pumped out 158bhp in the fresh range-topping TF 160 – and the Hydragas suspension was replaced by coil springs.

Sales weren’t harmed – even after MG Rover’s 2005 demise the model was still the UK’s best-selling roadster. In 2009 new Chinese owner SAIC started production again for a further three years.

“It’s a cheap, fun car, and if it’s had a good life it’s great to own,” says Steve Hall of Halls Garage (www.hallsgarage.co.uk).

ENGINE The F was the first use of the Rover K-series in 1.8- and 1.6-litre form. Rover used a new type of stretch bolt to attach

MAGIC CAR PICS

FTER YEARS OF MGmonikered Metros, Maestros and Montegos, hardcore fans of the octagon might have given up on the brand by the mid-1990s; despite talk of a sports car return from Rover, there was never the budget.

The V8-engined RV8 of 1992 was a modernised take on the MGB, but it was just that – beneath its rounded bumpers, it still had the chassis of the old B. It may have been an anomaly, however, but it reignited the public’s passion for MG. In 1995, those prayers were answered.

The MGF had been developed on the fraction of the budget of many rivals, but its mid-engined, rear-wheel-drive layout meant fantastic handling. Just two trim levels were offered at first – 1.8i and 1.8i VVC – but the range was soon widened.

The F was one of the first cars to undergo some major revisions after BMW

Cabin issues can include warped panels from moisture ingress, along with cracked leather trim.

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‘The new MGF roadster’s midengined, rearwheel-drive layout meant fantastic handling’

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

the block to the head when increasing the size of the unit. In the event of a coolant leak, commonly from the inlet-manifold gasket, any lax maintenance meant issues could often occur. Owners would fail to notice water loss, the engine would overheat and the resultant pressure would find the weakest point – the elastomer head gasket between the block and head.

With a later multi-layer steel gasket in place, the problem rarely returns, but if a car has had the head gasket done, ensure that the head was checked and – if necessary – skimmed, because coolant could still leak into the cylinders. “They could also leak from the water pump, and the cylinder liners can drop – the steel gasket doesn’t take that into account,”

says Steve. Look out for white smoke, a misfire at low revs or an uneven idle.

The F and TF also have coolant pipes that run under the floor, which means damage or corrosion can often be seen.

Check for drips underneath the car when parked, because pipe replacement is a labour-intensive yet essential job.

“There are three places to bleed the system: radiator, heater matrix and coolant pipes,” says Steve. “People who DIY the job tend to drain from only one place.”

Scrupulous checks of the water temperature are a key part of MGF ownership, he adds. “The cylinder head sits higher than the radiator, so it’ll be the head that suffers if there’s a problem.”

Aside from these issues, a K-series

powerplant can be very long lasting – but you must stick to mandated cambeltchange intervals because a snapped belt will swiftly kill the engine.

GEARBOX MGF and TF transmissions are robust, but a worn synchromesh can grate between second and third gear, even if it isn’t too serious. Clutch arms are known to seize, yet they’ll telegraph their forthcoming demise by becoming stiff over time.

The Stepspeed CVT offered from 2000 is a weak box and is known to give problems – look out for slipping and snatchy take-up of drive. “You’ll know there’s an issue, because you won’t be able to select reverse when cold,” says Steve.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The Hydragas spheres are known to lose pressure over time, which means they’ll need to be pumped up every two years or so. The TF is simpler and easier to maintain because its suspension features coilover dampers, although by this stage the bushes, mounts and drop links will need careful scrutiny.

“Sometimes the mounting bracket on the top suspension arm can snap the bolt off,” says Steve. “The good news is that the broken bolt is overlong and it is easily replaced.”

The discs brakes are the same as those found on the F’s Rover 45 or MG ZS stablemates, which means parts are both cheap and plentiful.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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MODEL HISTORY 1995: MGF launched at Geneva Motor Show, sales begin in September 1996: MGF quickly becomes UK’s best-selling roadster 1999: 75th Anniversary LE model debuts Late 1999: Model-year change for 2000 sees introduction of Stepspeed CVT, entry-level 1.6i, revised dashboard, new wheels, clear indicators Later TF was based on F, but boasted a pointier nose, smarter interior and higher-output VVC.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR MGFs and TFs are known to rust. Lift up the luggage-compartment liner and have a look at where the bulkhead meets the front chassis legs – this will provide an overview of the structural condition. “Lower wishbones on the front suspension are a key place,” says Steve, “but it’s not too bad a job to replace.”

Front wings end up rotten behind the headlights, where there’s a dirt trap, and around the wheelarch lips. These are bolton panels and easy enough to get hold of, but serious rust here could indicate more complicated rot in less obvious areas.

Look for signs of bubbling behind the rear side air vents. Corrosion here means bigger issues are lurking out of sight with the inner sills. Outer sills are known to rust, but this rot is far easier to see – it starts as the outer and inner sills begin to separate at the seam weld underneath, and will rapidly sprout up the side of the car.

Later TFs are more rust prone.

“Subframe butterfly mountings and front subframes tend to rot near the steeringrack mountings,” Steve advises. Scrutinise the hood carefully. A new roof will bolt in, but it’s not cheap; there are a lot of specialists to help re-cover them, however.

Moisture ingress from leaky roofs or condensation due to seasonal use is common, which in turn causes dashboard plastics and door cards to warp. “The leading edge of the hood where it meets 148

2000: MGF Trophy, Freestyle and Wedgewood special editions announced 2001: MG TF introduced with new upgraded VVC in TF 160

‘The earlier the TF, the better, because the 2003 Project Drive cost-cutting programme led to quality problems’

2002: MG TF 1.8 120 replaced by higher-powered 135 2005: TF production ceases with collapse of MG Rover 2009: Production restarts at low volumes under SAIC 2012: SAIC production ceases

SPECIFICATIONS the screen is the big issue,” says Steve.

“Spread some Vaseline on the rubber seals to avoid them swelling up.”

Wear on the side of the driver’s seat is common due to the seatbelts rubbing, while leather upholstery is also prone to cracking if not treated carefully.

WHICH TO BUY The 1.8i is the most reliable early car, but the 1.8i VVC delivers the most enjoyment – it’s lively and massively entertaining.

“It’s the one I’d go for,” says Steve. “It’s the most powerful, with the right suspension.”

The 2000MY facelift 1.6i is a little gem – it’s a no-frills roadster that doesn’t even have central locking, but its performance is barely different to the 1.8’s – it’s a true hidden gem. The earlier the TF, the better, because MG Rover’s 2003 Project Drive cost-cutting programme led to quality problems. The TF 160 with the upgraded VVC and 158bhp is the one to have.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1.8-litre inline-four (1.8i) Power: 120bhp Top speed: 122mph 0-60mph: 8.9 seconds Economy: 35mpg 1.8-litre inline-four (1.8i VVC) Power: 141bhp Top speed: 133mph 0-60mph: 7.7 seconds Economy: 35mpg 1.8-litre inline-four (TF 160) Power: 158bhp Top speed: 140mph 0-60mph: 7.1 seconds Economy: 36mpg INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £2000 Good: £3300 Excellent: £4500 (2002 TF 160)

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2011–2021

Morgan 3 Wheeler

The car that started it all for the Morgan Motor Company is just as fun the second time around

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ICTURE A MORGAN, AND your mind might instantly reference the 4/4 and Plus 4 models. However, it’s the quirky 3 Wheeler that helped launch the company, and its modern iteration still provides a driving experience like nothing else.

The original V-twin 3 Wheeler and its F-series replacement were part of Morgan’s line-up until 1952, but almost 60 years later the model was brought back. Revealed in

150

2011 to celebrate the marque’s centenary year, it was very warmly received and demand was far higher than expected.

There is just one model to choose from, but the car features a few changes over its lifespan. If considering a 2011-2013 example, there are several revisions for later versions that should have been retrofitted – and if they haven’t, that’s a concern. In 2014 the steering geometry was altered to cure bump-steer issues; this

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

was included in the Comfort Pack on later models. The Urban Cooling Pack upgrade kept the engine operating at the correct temperature in low-speed conditions.

Customisation was king when it came to the 3 Wheeler – there were not a lot of makers who listed items such as a photobuild book, bonnet straps and pin-up girl graphics on their options lists. However, now that this model has effectively gone out of production, you will be stuck with the previous owner’s customisation choices.

Generally they’re tastefully specced, so this shouldn’t be too much of an issue. Limitednumber special editions such as the Gulf, Superdry or Brooklands usually command a premium over the standard cars.

“It’s about the most fun you can have on the road without breaking the law,” explains Neville Porteous of Berrybrook Morgan (www.berrybrookmorgan.co.uk).

“They’re just incredible fun; you can drive them hard without speeding.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The S&S V-twin engine is a low-stressed unit, and no weak points have been noted

in this design as of yet. The only complaints concern the unit’s tendency to overheat when idle for long periods. This prompted Morgan to introduce an Urban Cooling Pack, which can be retrofitted to cars built prior to 2014. “Most of the early teething problems have been sorted by now,” explains Neville.

The Mazda MX-5-sourced gearbox is robust and relatively unstressed, so there is not much to worry about in this department. “Because the pedal box is cramped, people tend to ride the clutch,” says Neville. “We’ve seen cars that have needed a new clutch before 25,000 miles – get a dealer to check it.”

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Early cars suffered from bad bump steer, but 2014’s Comfort Pack updates cured this problem and can be retrofitted to older cars at a price. “Some people prefer the original set-up, but I’d say the pack was a necessity,” says Neville.

With a kerbweight of just over 500kg, the suspension and brakes tend to last a long time – although with many cars covering minimal mileages it’s worth checking the brakes for surface corrosion and the suspension bushes for hairline cracks.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Some owners have complained about the chassis flexing, and in a small number of cases the actual frame rails have cracked.

Cars built after 2014 have a strengthened chassis, so if yours is among the earlier ones, get it inspected. However, it’s likely that all models have been done already.

“They should have been fixed by now – I’ve not seen one that hasn’t been braced within the past two years,” says Neville.

While there may not be much to it, the 3 Wheeler’s cabin is well crafted and stands up to regular use. Because the tonneau is an optional extra and a bit fiddly to fit, check for water or sun damage.

WHICH TO BUY As you have probably already worked out, the 3 Wheeler is purely a weekend toy.

That means you get no luggage space, virtually no creature comforts and very little protection from the elements. It also

means that you can delight in the kind of driving enjoyment that is usually the preserve of far pricier vehicles.

Now that you can no longer spec this 3 Wheeler model brand new, straight from the factory, the good news is that there tends to be a decent selection of used examples to pick from at any given time.

The impressive range of customisations available will ensure that no two look exactly alike. Mileages on most cars tend to be low and residual values are strong.

Post-2014 models had a number of desirable modifications, many of which can be – and have been – retrofitted to earlier cars. Euro 3 variants are more powerful but can be registered only in the UK. Meanwhile, Euro 4 versions can be registered throughout the EU, but a few factory options such as a revised ECU and less restrictive (and much louder) exhaust can reclaim the lost ponies.

“The small number of Euro 4 cars aren’t as desirable as Euro 3 models,” says Neville.

Limited editions are always sought after, but the changes are mostly cosmetic.

If ever there was a vehicle that amounted to more than the sum of its parts, then the Morgan 3 Wheeler is it.

Objectively speaking it doesn’t have any class-leading traits, yet it is still capable of plastering a smile on your face after even the shortest of drives, in a way that very few rivals – at any price – can emulate.

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre OHV V-twin (Euro 3 spec) Power: 82bhp Top speed: 115mph 0-62mph: 6.0 seconds Economy: 30.3mpg 2.0-litre OHV V-twin (Euro 4 spec) Power: 68bhp Top speed: 115mph 0-62mph: 7.0 seconds Economy: 34.9mpg

MAGIC CAR PICS

BUYING GUIDE

Cabin is basic but still somehow luxurious, and boasts endless customisation options.

MODEL HISTORY 2011: After break of 59 years, production of new Morgan 3 Wheeler commences.

Long list of modification options made available to customers 2012: 100 Gulf edition models built featuring unique paint scheme 2013: Brooklands special edition introduced, with limited run of 50 cars 2014: Steering geometry revised to alleviate bump steer, also available as aftermarket Comfort Pack. Upgraded chassis introduced for improved handling and rigidity. Urban Cooling Pack introduced to improve airflow to engine in urban driving conditions – available as aftermarket item. Centre-drive unit updated for smoother power delivery.

Sound deadening for bevel box to reduce transmission noise. Warranty extended for all new cars 2015: Limited production run of 200 special-edition Superdry models introduced

VA LUAT I O N S

2020: Morgan 3 Wheeler still in production. Customisation options include 12 exterior colours, 30 leather colours in either pleated or quilted style, plus numerous graphics and decals

Fair: £25,000 Good: £35,000 Excellent: £45,000

2021: Production comes to an end, with 33 examples of limited-edition P101 built

INSURANCE AND AGREED

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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BUYING GUIDE

1950–2020

Morgan Plus 4, Plus 8 and V6 Roadster

Quintessential British charm and a resolute character make these Morgan sports cars a unique experience

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option in 1959, and standard a year later.

The Plus 4 recipe remained pretty much the same throughout its lifetime, aside from some minor styling changes and a run of glassfibre bodies. Later engines included four-pots from Fiat, Rover and Ford. The introduction of a V8 into the range in 1968, however, upped the ante.

With Rover’s Buick-sourced 3.5-litre V8 shoehorned under its bonnet, the Plus 8 remained largely unchanged during its 36year run, although a new, larger-chassis variant was built to fit bigger engines.

Among the more notable upgrades were a

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE ORIGINAL PLUS 4 WAS effectively a wider, longer and more powerful 4/4, which dated back to 1936. As the car aged Morgan carefully refined the package, but the blueprint of a traditionally built ash frame and a rejection of contemporary automotive trends remained ever present.

These continual improvements largely centred on the engine. It began with the Triumph TR2’s 2.0-litre four-cylinder from 1953, upgrading to the TR3 unit from ’55.

From ’62, a 2.1 version of the TR4 motor was used. Front disc brakes became an

Switchgear and trim are largely replaceable, but items such as the walnut dash can be pricey.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘It’s a British icon. It feels like a classic, but with modern mechanics – all the enjoyment without the hassle’

five-speed manual gearbox and optional aluminium panels in 1977. At the same time the engine got fuel injection and larger displacements, while the doors were lengthened from 1997 to ease access.

In 2004 the venerable Rover lump was discontinued, as was the Plus 8. It returned in 2012 with a BMW V8, before coming to an end once again in 2018.

The Morgan Roadster was the first Plus 8 replacement, and it arrived in 2004 sporting the Ford Mondeo ST220’s 3.0litre V6. This lighter and more powerful unit gave the Roadster distinctly newmillennium performance for something so 1930s looking. In 2011 it was upgraded to a 3.7 Cyclone V6, and power steering was added, too – something previously

reserved for the Aero chassis and V8 cars.

“It’s a British icon,” says Helen Thorne of Richard Thorne Classic Cars (www. rtcc.co.uk). “People smile at you; they don’t do that if you’re in a Porsche. It feels like a classic, but with modern mechanics – all the enjoyment without the hassle.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The 1950-68 Plus 4s used largely reliable Standard-Triumph four-pots. There are no innate flaws, and parts are readily available. The 1985-on Plus 4s first had 2.0-litre Fiat engines; these are rare, with just 120 built. A Rover unit arrived in 1988; common issues include worn cambelts and head-gasket leaks. Later Plus 4s used a Ford 2.0-litre Duratec engine,

and the Roadster, a Ford V6. Both reliable, these units have seen use in plenty of cars.

The Plus 8’s Rover V8 is generally good, but early examples tended to have poor cooling and timing chains that were known to stretch. Cylinder-head-retention bolts on certain engines could cause issues, but post-1994 cars using a Land Rover-spec V8 were saved from this issue.

Some Plus 8 parts can be tricky to find, because not every component from the several engines Morgan used during the long production span is interchangeable.

“Of the 3.5, 3.9, 4.0 and 4.6 used over 40 years, people like the latter,” says Helen. “It was the biggest, and it’s rare. All of them ran Land Rover ECUs, which weren’t ideal.”

BMW motors are more complex but

should be just as hardy, although do ask for proof that the previous owner has adhered to the oil-change intervals (at least once annually, even if mileage is low).

The four-speed Moss transmissions used in early Plus 4s and Plus 8s were known to be tricky to repair and expensive to find the parts to do it with. On a test drive, watch out for the ’box jumping out of gear, whining and a crunchy shift feel, which all mean the transmission needs love. Rover V8-engined cars used a matching gearbox. Helen says: “Whether four- or five speed, they’re really reliable.”

Listen out for a whining differential, and check for any leaks around its casing.

Diff oil should be changed regularly (every 5000 miles is ideal).

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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MODEL HISTORY 1950: 2.0 Standard engine for new Plus 4 1951: Series 1 4/4 production ends 1954: 90bhp 2.0 TR2 engine introduced 1955: S2 4/4 released 1956: 100bhp 2.0-litre TR3 engine arrives 1961: Tuned 116bhp Plus 4 Super Sports 1962: 2.1-litre TR4 engine standardised 1963: Glassfibre Plus 4 Plus; 26 produced 1965: Upgraded TR4A engine fitted 1968: S1 Plus 4 ends. Plus 8 3.5 Rover V8 Morgan’s classic looks allied with contemporary drivetrains ensure a unique driving experience.

1977: Plus 8 gets more powerful V8 1984: Fuel-injection for Plus 8; now 190bhp

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES All Morgans share a similar chassis.

Classic steering boxes aren’t especially sharp, so some play is to be expected, particularly in Plus 4s and pre-1984 Plus 8s without a rack-and-pinion system.

“If greased every 5000 miles, kingpins can last 15k-25k miles,” says Helen. Heavy steering indicates wear, but replacement is affordable. If the steering column moves, the universal joint is worn, too.

Some cars have a remote greasing point that allows the suspension to be lubricated from the engine bay. Rear leaf springs are known to sag, but their simple design means replacements are inexpensive.

Most classic Morgans have front disc brakes and back drums. “Rear cylinders fail fairly regularly, but they’re not hugely expensive to replace,” says Helen.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Repairing a Morgan’s body and chassis is a specialist job. “Pre-1986 there was no rust-proofing, and the ash frame wasn’t treated,” explains Helen. A rotten frame means entire sections of the car must be rebuilt. Diagnosing the issue can be hard, with potential horrors hidden underneath an ostensibly presentable example. Post1986 cars rarely have such problems: “There were options for how rust protected you wanted your car. It’s worth checking the original spec via the factory.”

Rot is common if a car’s been exposed to 154

damp or incorrect storage. Get a proper body-condition check, while panels can be got from either specialists or Morgan itself.

On the inside, ensure all the buttons and gauges work, and inspect under the carpets for any signs of moisture ingress.

The switchgear and trim are largely replaceable, but some items, such as the walnut dash, can be pricey. The hood and side-screens should fit snugly; throw a bucket of water over the top to check for water dripping into the cockpit.

WHICH TO BUY Much honing over a long run means each car will be unique, so a thorough test drive is essential. Morgans seem to be unaffected by collector market ups and downs, and most hold their values well. That said, well maintained and historically interesting examples will cost more. “The Duratecengined Plus 4s are a happy medium,” says Helen. “They’re not expensive to run, yet still provide the Morgan experience.”

Newer cars command higher prices, and performance is still on a par with that of more modern-looking machinery. Despite the refinements, owning any Morgan is a quirky yet ever-enjoyable experience.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £15,900 Good: £28,600 Excellent: £48,000 (1989 Plus 8)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1985: Plus 4 is back; 2.0-litre Fiat twin-cam 1988: Rover’s 2.0 M16 replaces Fiat unit 1990: Plus 8 gets 3.9-litre Rover V8 1992: Plus 4 gets Plus 8’s wide chassis; T16 1996: Plus 8 fitted with 240bhp 4.6-litre V8 2000: Plus 4 ceases production 2004: S1 Plus 8 ends. S3 Plus 4 gets 2.0 Ford Duratec. Roadster has Ford 3.0 V6 2011: S2 Roadster gets Ford 3.7 V6 2012: Larger S3 Plus 8 has BMW 4.8 V8 2018: Plus 8 ends 2020: S3 Plus 4 ends

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre Triumph TR3 inline-four (Plus 4) Power: 100bhp Top speed: 96mph 0-60mph: 10.0 seconds (est.)

Economy: N/A 3.5-litre Rover V8 (Plus 8) Power: 143-190bhp Top speed: 124mph-plus 0-60mph: 6.0-6.7 seconds Economy: 25mpg (est.)

3.0-litre Ford V6 (Roadster) Power: 223bhp Top speed: 134mph 0-60mph: 5.0 seconds Economy: 29mpg (est.)

Morgan Works Malvern is the Morgan Motor Company’s factory-owned dealership, based at the company’s historic home in Malvern, Worcestershire. With more than a century of brand knowledge, it presents the finest range of new and preowned Morgan models to market. Morgan Works Malvern also offer a range of aftersales services as well as restoration and reappointment for Morgan cars of all ages.

Morgan Works Malvern Pickersleigh Road, Malvern Link, Malvern WR14 2LL

Morgan Works London 6 Astwood Mews, Kensington, London SW7 4DE

www.morganworks.co.uk/used sales@morgan-motor.co.uk 01684 215 511

BUYING GUIDE

1948–1965

Porsche 356 A lightweight post-war gem that began a sports car legacy – with pedigree and residuals to match

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would fund future 356 development.

Box-section sills, a central reinforcement tunnel and strong bulkheads fore and aft moved the 356/2 away from the Type 1.

Even its engine and transaxle, thoroughly revised with bigger heads and re-angled valves, was turned through 180 degrees.

As Germany’s economy improved, so did Porsche’s prospects. While the last Austrian cars were completed in 1951, a year earlier the firm had moved into the factory of Reutter, a renowned Stuttgart coachbuilder that would later produce the lion’s share of 356 coupé bodies. Other coachbuilders, such as Drauz, would help build cabriolets, a bodystyle that had been a 356 mainstay since production began.

Evolution was fast and frequent; between 1955 and 1957, the retrospectively named ‘pre-A’ series was discontinued and the first 356A Type 1s were produced.

Flat-four engines, of both pushrod and

MAGIC CAR PICS

O DENIGRATE A 356 AS ‘AN uprated Beetle’ is to sell the whole car short. Fastidiously honed during a 17-year run, it prepared the ground for the 901/911 series that moved Porsche into the big league of volume sports-car production.

It was a slow job to get the first 356 – named for the engineering consultancy’s 356th project – off the ground in 1948; Porsche’s factory was occupied by US troops and Germany was still reasserting itself economically. The firm had begun to crystallise its ideas for a lightweight sports car before World War Two; the very first 356/1 was built on a spaceframe.

Realising that series production would demand a simpler method of construction, Porsche built 356/2s out of an inner/outer monocoque whose floorpan resembled (but differed from) that of the VW Type 1 Beetle, the consultancy fees for which

Replacement cabin spares are available for most cars, although earlier parts are harder to find.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

four-cam variety, to Porsche’s own design, grew from 1100cc to 1600cc via 1300cc and 1500cc variants; the four-cam Carreras, in 1500cc and 2000cc form, are outside the scope of this guide. In 1955 the limited-run, rakish Speedster was introduced – a cut-down cabriolet now accessible to only the wealthiest of collectors. And 1957 saw the 356A T2 revision arrive, with reworked doors and trim, and cabriolet quarterlights.

The 356B was launched in 1959; production had really ramped up by this stage and this was the most plentiful of the model. There were very few interchangeable VW parts left on cars by now – the rear trailing arms, halfshafts, crown wheel, pinion and differential

‘Fastidiously honed during a 17-year run, the 356 prepared the ground for the 901/911 series’

housing were all that were carried over.

Porsche didn’t use the T3 or T4 designations, so Bs were known as T5s, picked out by their raised headlights plus bumpers fore and aft. Quarterlights finally featured on the coupés; T5s lasted until 1963, when the final T6 variant of the model, the 356C with a larger, squarer rear window, was unveiled. The newly renamed 911 was looming large, but the old model was upgraded with four-wheel disc brakes.

By 1965, precisely 76,302 examples had been made – the last ten cabriolets delivered to the Dutch police. Uncannily attractive, precisely built and dynamically capable, the 356 did more with less, winning Porsche a legion of fans.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Mick Pacey, owner of Bedfordshire-based specialist Export 56 (www.export56.com) expects that most 356 engines will have been rebuilt by now. However, he warns new recruits to leave the four-cam engines to the most serious of collectors: “I doubt there are many first-time buyers willing to jump in at the deep end with the fourcam (Carrera); those engines cost tens of thousands of pounds, and are very complex race engines,” he says.

For the most part, spares availability is very good – but the earlier you go, the harder it is to find components, ruling out the pre-A cars for all but the most dedicated. Mick urges anyone to inspect the history files of a potential purchase

and check just who has done the work.

Any general concerns? “They’re quirky engines and complicated mechanically.

They all have a tendency to shed some oil.

End-float wear (at the crankshaft) also needs to be checked,” says Mick. “They tend to suffer from engine fires, too; the alternator/dynamo, voltage regulator and carburettor[s] are all pretty close to each other on the right-hand side under the bonnet; there could be evidence of a fire on the right-hand bank of the engine.”

New carburettors and/or rebuild kits – Zeniths for the lower-powered models and Solexes for the faster machines – are available, but tuning and setting them up properly is a laborious task.

Gearboxes are pretty robust; rarely are

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there any issues. Pre-A ’boxes were a little clunky, but as power increased they rose to the task. A lot of the problems people initially encounter with Porsches is the location of the motor and transmission; being rear engined, there’s some distance for the gear linkage to travel to the driver and stick. If it feels like the change is sloppy, it’ll be down to worn nylon bushes in the ’box couplings rather than anything inside the transmission itself.

Synchromesh units were introduced between 1952 and 1953; parts for earlier set-ups are hard to source.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

A wide range was available during the run, with a combination of bodies, engines and specifications.

This is the 356B.

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Wear occurs in the front kingpin and rear arm bushes, while dampers can also suffer from age. Steering boxes, which were originally Volkswagen derived, were later replaced with a Porsche-designed ZF unit; both are adjustable, but make sure they haven’t been ‘corrected’ down to the last shim and are simply worn out.

Drum brakes on pre-A, A and B models are more than up to the job, provided they’re not neglected. Heat build-up can crack or warp their alloy casings and cast-iron linings, and their scarcity is borne out by the preferences of specialists to refurbish these units rather than replace them. Later, disc-braked Cs give little trouble; their parts are often used as the basis for which to uprate earlier 356s.

“Just check everything that you normally would on any old car,” advises Mick.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘The metalwork can kill a 356; the biggest single drama is the bodyshell. You can easily spend £100k restoring it’ BODYWORK AND INTERIOR “The metalwork can kill a 356; the biggest single drama is the bodyshell,” says Mick.

“You can easily spend £100k restoring a ’shell if it’s knackered. Panels are expensive.

It’s not one part of the body – it’s all of it.”

Specialists such as Roger Bray, PR Services and Karmann Konnection do have repro panels and parts, but none of it is cheap. Right-hand-drive cars were made in tiny numbers for the UK; their specific parts, such as dashboards, may not be easy to find if they need replacing. It all gets easier from the B onwards, because as it is the most common of all 356s, a big enough parts network exists to make a viable used market, in both Europe and the US. The arches and door edges are vulnerable, as is the area under the front-mounted fuel tank. Mick says: “The bodies are a complex monocoque; anyone who says ‘the 356 is just a Beetle’ couldn’t be further from the truth. They are a body-within-a-body, and

MODEL HISTORY 1948-1949: Porsche’s 356th project, 356/1 coupé, completed in Gmünd, Austria. As year progresses, 356/2 is readied, differing in construction from 356/1. A cabriolet, bodied by Beutler, Austro-Tata and Keibl, is also offered 1949: Porsche agrees with Stuttgart coachbuilder Reutter to rent space, its own factory still occupied by US forces 1950: First Stuttgart Porsche built in March.

356 1100 coupé and cabriolet introduced 1951: 356/2 production ends in Austria, with 44 coupés and eight cabriolets built.

356 1300 coupé and cabriolet released 1952: 356 1500 coupé and cabriolet arrive; production of ‘split-window’ cars run down. All existing models adopt new windscreen. Synchro ’box introduced 1953-1954: ‘Bent-window’, single-piecescreen 356 1500 and 1500 Super arrive.

Split-window 356 1300 phased out 1954: 356 1100 production ends; 356 1300 reintroduced; 1300 Super launched As the final incarnation, the disc-braked C sent the 356 out on a high before the 911 arrived.

you can only get to the inner body by cutting the outer panels away.”

He continues: “There isn’t a front wing as such; it’s all undulating curves into other curves. The only removable panels are the doors, bootlid and bonnet. You have a front nose section and a front wing and a rear wing section; they’re all welded together and lead-loaded to get the shape right, and there’s no adjustment at all.”

Replacement cabin parts are available for most models, but the pre-A and A are more difficult. Not all repro seat covers are made to the correct style, so compare them with images of original cars. Radios are sought after, but again check that they’re the correct type for the model.

good parts availability and survival rate.

He says: “Porsche built over 30,000.

Anything pre-A, or right-hand drive, will carry a premium; not many were made.

The B T5 is attractive, with a nicely curved bonnet and smaller screen. Porsche also introduced a Super 90 model; they are drum braked, but these work incredibly well because they’re nicely engineered.”

WHICH TO BUY

1.6-litre flat-four Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

A good convergence between mechanical refinement, styling and price, the 356B T5 – in left-hand drive – would be Mick’s choice for a first-time buyer, owing to

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INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £20,000 Good: £60,000 Excellent: £150,000 (A-C coupés, LHD)

SPECIFICATIONS

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

60bhp 103mph 14.1 seconds 25-30mpg

1955-1956: US importer Max Hoffman commissions Speedster; 1500 Super Speedster also released. 1300 and 1300 Super phased out. ‘Pre-A’ era ends; 356A Type 1 (T1) production begins. 2.0-litre DOHC 356 Carrera launched 1956-1958: Speedster production ends after 2922 units; 356A Type 2 (T2) arrives.

Twin-cam, roller-bearing 1500 GS engine on limited release; pushrod 1600 launched 1958: Convertible D replaces Speedster 1959: Roadster replaces Convertible D. Further styling and tech tweaks create 356B. T3 and T4 designations unused; 356B becomes T5; VW parts limited to rear axle 1961: Karmann Hardtop released 1962: Mid-year changes prompt release of 356B T6. Karmann Hardtop discontinued.

Updated, coupé-only Carrera 2 released 1963-1964: Disc-braked 356C launched; most powerful pushrod engine, 95bhp SC, offered. 911 arrives; 356C sales continue 1965: Production wound down, final ten cars, all cabriolets, made for Dutch police

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BUYING GUIDE

1963–1973

Porsche 911 Early 911s have shot up in value in recent times, but that means you need to exercise extreme caution to make sure you don’t buy a tarted-up disaster...

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of the 1991cc powerplant. The 911 S also introduced the iconic Fuchs alloy wheels and a brand-new Targa bodystyle, which incorporated a silver roll-over hoop and removable roof section.

In 1970, Porsche increased the engine capacity from 1991cc to 2195cc, with the 2.2-litre 911 S now producing 178bhp. The engine was revised again for 1972, now up to 2342cc but known as the 2.4 despite being closer to 2.3 litres in capacity. The 2.4 also got fuel injection.

In 1973, the most collectable 911 of the lot came along – the 2.7-litre Carrera RS, which is now a six-figure collector car.

But the good news is that lesser models are more affordable, although very good examples always command strong money.

Original right-hand-drive cars are rare, and many of the examples in the UK (and, indeed, across Europe) are US imports, which come with a different set of issues.

MAGIC CAR PICS

AVING ENJOYED GREAT success with the 356, Porsche decided to scale things up with its new project in the early 1960s. Initially called the 901 until Peugeot put a spanner in the works by claiming the copyright, the 911 was both bigger and more mature than the 356, yet still unmistakably pretty.

The car was revealed to the public in 1963 and production began the following year, remaining true to the brand’s aircooled, rear-engined roots. It was a model that underwent a mind-boggling mixture of changes throughout its life, but in styling terms it remained pretty much unaltered until 1973.

It began life with a 2.0-litre flat-six engine with an aluminium crankcase, developing 128bhp. That was increased to 159bhp in 1967 with the introduction of the 911 S, which used a revised version

ENGINE AND GEARBOX As well as having an inimitable soundtrack thanks to that wonderful flat-six, one of the beauties of these early 911s is that they are doggedly reliable.

Nick Moss runs Early 911 (www.early 911.co.uk), specialising in the restoration of pre-1973 cars. He says: “If you have a good and well restored 911 from the early years, there’s no reason at all why you can’t just jump in and use it as your everyday car. They are tough and reliable, and more than up to the job of regular driving. Indeed, regular use such as that is generally better for them than just running them occasionally.”

The engine is renowned for being durable, but for age reasons alone you should buy one that has had all the work done already by a reputable specialist, because costs can soon mount up.

Low oil pressure at tick-over isn’t necessarily a big issue – it can often be cured by fitting a smaller restrictor in the oil delivery to the camshafts. But the condition of the crankcase, aluminium to mid-’68, then magnesium, is critical; the magnesium units can become weak and porous, and the recommended fix is an aluminium replacement – but not in the eyes of those who crave originality. It depends whether you’re buying a car to use or to keep as an investment.

Also, listen for worn synchromesh and gearbox bearings. They whine a bit with minor wear, but replacing the linkage bushes can often help.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

Many changes means replicating materials can be hard, while dash-top replacements are rare.

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Everything on an early 911 is pretty straightforward and also fairly hardy, with the most common problem being wear to

‘It underwent a mind-boggling mixture of changes, but in styling terms it remained pretty much unaltered’

MODEL HISTORY 1963: Porsche 901 revealed to public, but name quickly changed after French automotive company Peugeot complains 1964: 911 production begins, complete with 128bhp 2.0-litre engine the front control arms, which can be diagnosed through extremely light-feeling steering or a lack of precision at the wheel.

The brakes can also take some getting used to. No pre-1973 911s were fitted with a brake servo, but the all-disc set-up works well once you get used to giving the pedal a proper shove.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR While all 911s were very well built, it would be unreasonable to expect a car of this vintage not to have seen some sort of bodywork rectification. When buying, you should check just about everywhere, and be particularly wary of examples that have recently been painted, because they could be hiding all manner of ills.

“There’s also a big difference between British and US cars,” says Nick. “American models rot from the inside out, while British cars rot from the outside in. And while ‘dry state’-sourced US cars are generally in better structural condition, they usually rot in different areas.

“For example, the back parcel shelf and bottom corner of the rear windscreen are often a problem on US imports, but rarely on UK models, whereas British cars tend to suffer more with rotten floors and sills.

Essentially, you need to go over the entire car very, very carefully to ensure that it’s solid where it needs to be and hasn’t been hastily bodged or filled.”

He continues: “In addition, American cars tend to be treated very badly, and 164

those imported from the southern states have survived only because of the dry climate, and not because the cars have been loved. I’ve had many a US import through my workshop that has ended up needing far more work doing on it than the owner expected, because once we got stuck into it we found all manner of problems.”

Pursuing originality can be hard, as well. The 911’s trim was changed from year to year, so replicating original materials can be really tough. Do pay particular attention to any distortion in the dash top and surrounds, because replacements can be hard to find.

WHICH TO BUY “Generally speaking it is hard not to recommend the 2.4, as it wasn’t only the quickest but also the most efficient of the early 911s,” says Nick. “But in all honesty, a 2.2 is still pretty quick and all are tremendous good fun to drive.

“If I am recommending a car to a collector I would of course recommend the most powerful version, because those are the ones that command the strongest values. Personally, I actually really like the 2.0-litre models. They don’t look especially quick on paper, but there’s so much that you can do with them to improve their performance and make them just as fast as the larger-engined models, while they also retain the absolute purity of the original 911 design.”

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1967: Higher-performance 911 S arrives 1967: Entry-level 911T also introduced with 110bhp, Sportomatic four-speed semi-automatic option launched 1968: Original alloy crankcase replaced by magnesium unit 1970: 2.0-litre engine replaced by 2.2 1972: New 2.4-litre flat-six introduced complete with fuel injection

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre flat-six Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

129bhp 131mph 8.3 seconds 32mpg

2.2-litre flat-six (S) Power: 178bhp Top speed: 140mph 0-60mph: 7.2 seconds Economy: 28mpg 2.4-litre flat-six Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

190bhp 144mph 6.5 seconds 26mpg

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £28,000 Good: £40,000 Excellent: £60,000

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BUYING GUIDE

1998–2005

Porsche 911 996 Porsche’s first water-cooled 911 was controversial when new, but it has evolved to become one of the marque’s best-loved cars – for a very good reason...

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N MANY RESPECTS, THE 996 is the under-appreciated 911. The first water-cooled version of the iconic Porsche sports car had a lot in common with the Boxster, including its distinctive ‘fried-egg’ headlamps with integrated indicators, its basic platform and much of its front suspension.

And while some 911 purists sniff at that, other fans of the marque recognise it for what it was. The 996 was Porsche finally bringing the 911 up to date, while maintaining a number of key elements of its essential DNA – namely the iconic coupé profile, the horizontally opposed six-cylinder engine in its rump, and the upmarket but accessible supercar image

that the 911 had portrayed so exceptionally well since its inception.

It was also a fabulous machine to drive, being arguably the finest-handling car of the 1990s providing you didn’t overprovoke it... At that point it would do another classically 911 thing and fly backwards into the weeds.

If anything, though, the 996 was the perfect compromise. It was rapid and entertaining just as a 911 should be, but it was also docile and easy to drive around town, especially when equipped with the Tiptronic semi-auto ’box – a 911 with the flexibility of a manual and thumb-shift gearchanges, but with just the two pedals, meaning that it was as happy lapping the

MAGIC CAR PICS

M25 as it was lapping the Nürburgring.

The 996 proved a hit with the wider motoring public, and worldwide sales figures of more than 175,000 made it one of Porsche’s most popular cars ever.

Those numbers mean there are now plenty available for tempting prices on the used market. Despite the 996’s healthy reliability record, however, not all of them are good buys. Choose one that has been properly maintained and you can look forward to years of enjoyable driving – but pick one that has been neglected, and you can expect some sizeable repair bills.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Extensive use of cheap plastics means cosmetic damage can be common in this era of Porsche.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

“The 996 may be a sports car, but it is also practical enough for everyday use, so

‘Worldwide sales figures of more than 175,000 made it one of Porsche’s most popular cars ever’

there is no reason to worry about the mileage being high, just as long as the car has been well maintained,” says Russell Stanley of 911 specialist Revolution Porsche (www.revolution-porsche.co.uk).

“In fact, low-mileage examples may require some extra checks, because under use can lead to problems such as rust on the brake discs.”

He continues: “One other thing to consider is that 996s with very low mileages may well have been used for track days, and so regularly driven close to their maximum potential. If this is the case, the car should have been serviced more regularly than the recommended mileage-based regime.”

One of the most serious issues on the

996 is failure of the factory-fitted intermediate shaft (IMS) bearing, which can lead to catastrophic engine problems.

The failure rate on models manufactured between 2000 and 2005 is around eight percent (according to various published statistics), so make sure you find out whether the car you are interested in buying has had the highly effective retrofit solution before you make an offer.

“Many 996 owners opt to have the retrofit solution as a precaution, and that is a job we regularly undertake at Revolution Porsche,” says Russell.

Scored cylinder bores were a problem on some early Porsche 996s, but in reality the issue is actually relatively rare and the prominence of horror stories on the

internet is down to the large repair costs involved when it does happen.

The problem is very difficult to spot in its early stages unless you have access to specialist equipment. Given the price of a replacement engine, it is well worth investing in a borescope inspection before buying a 996 to check that an expensive fault isn’t imminent. Early 3.4 units have proved much more prone to this issue than the post-2001 3.6 engines.

The rear main oil seals (RMS) were a weak point on Porsches of this era, and leaks are not uncommon. Although the seal itself is an inexpensive part, labour for the replacement is costly because it is very difficult to access.

“If you spot an oil leak on the 996 you

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plan to buy, ask a Porsche specialist to look at it,” says Russell. “A leak does not always mean the RMS needs to be replaced immediately, and it can often be delayed until a bigger job, such as replacing the clutch, needs doing.”

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES This incarnation of the 911 is much lighter on its brakes than most sports cars of the same vintage, but as with all models the brakes do need to be replaced every few years. Make a visual check of the discs for signs of rust and warping, and also see if the car shakes or pulls one way when stopping – they’re all signs that the brakes will need renewing in the near future.

If the pads and discs have been changed previously, ask to see receipts for the work.

It should have been undertaken by a Porsche specialist using high-quality parts.

The suspension in the Porsche 996 was superb for a sports car of its era, and it has proven to be very durable. The only problem you are likely to encounter is some creaking or rattling from the front and rear corners, which is a sign that the control arms are either worn or have been damaged on speed bumps. Replacing them is a simple and relatively inexpensive job, which will probably need to be done every three or four years.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR “The bodywork on the Porsche 996 is of the highest quality, and the manufacturer

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provided a ten-year anti-rust warranty, with most examples still being pretty much perfect after more than twice that,” says Russell. “With the exception of under the door catches on very early 996s, rust is rare and may be evidence of badly repaired accident damage.”

Check the bodywork carefully for dents and signs of repair, and also inspect underneath the car for a misshapen floor pan – another sure sign it has been involved in a smash.

Look inside the front air intakes for mud and leaves, which will rot out the engine and air-con radiators. You should regularly clean them out.

Corrosion of the exhaust fasteners, bolts and nuts is a common problem that can lead to leakage in the system. A visual check of the underneath of the car will pick this up, but you will need access to a lift to get a proper view. There is no

‘You won’t be disappointed.

There are very few cars with this kind of performance that are so easy to use or live with’

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

alternative to having the parts replaced.

The infotainment system was out of date a long time ago, and some modern aftermarket ‘upgrades’ can at best look naff, at worst cause considerable hindrance to onward progress. Porsche offers a thoroughly modern sat-nav/Bluetooth audio system that slots right in. It is the best part of £1500, but users rave about it.

The 996 was developed during a particularly tough financial period for the German auto manufacturer, and if there’s one area where you can see evidence of cost cutting it is in the interior, which contains vast swathes of cheap plastics.

As such, scratches and scuffs are commonplace, but it should largely all be cosmetic, although squeaks and rattles can become apparent over time.

WHICH TO BUY There are two types of ‘standard’ 996: the Carrera 2 and the Carrera 4 (rear- and allwheel drive respectively), with the choice of wide or narrow body, and coupé, cabrio or Targa bodystyles. They are all great, so the decision around which one to go for is an entirely personal thing. At the top of the tree are the Turbo, GT2 and GT3 special editions, which offer greater performance and are a lot more collectable.

“Buy any Porsche 996 and you will not be disappointed,” explains Russell.

“There are very few cars available with this kind of performance that are so easy to use or live with.”

BUYING GUIDE

The first watercooled 911 saw Porsche finally bringing the model up to date while maintaining a number of key elements of its essential DNA.

SPECIFICATIONS

MODEL HISTORY

3.4-litre flat-six Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

300bhp 155mph 6.0 seconds 29mpg

1998: Carrera 2 coupé launched in March with all-new, water-cooled flat-six. 300bhp 3.4-litre unit available with six-speed manual and five-speed Tiptronic transmission. Cabriolet introduced in July 1998

3.6-litre flat-six Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

320bhp 160mph 5.5 seconds 28mpg

1999: All-wheel-drive Carrera 4 featuring Porsche Stability Management (PSM) introduced. All models have POSIPS side-impact-protection system, louder exhaust note plus smoked front and rear indicator lenses. In June, lightweight motor sport-focused GT3 appears, with water-cooled 360bhp 3.6 2000: 420bhp 996 Turbo launched, with all-wheel drive and twin-turbo water-cooled engine. Special-edition (numbered) Millennium – high-spec version of Carrera 4, identified by chrome alloy wheels, burr-walnut dash and tan-leather interior. Carrera 2 can be specified with PSM 2001: 462bhp twin-turbo GT2 with rear-wheel drive and no PSM arrives.

Lighter weight makes this fastestaccelerating 996 model 2002: Major upgrade revealed with facelift including Turbo’s teardrop headlamps, glovebox, sports steering wheel and larger 320bhp 3.6-litre engine (featuring variable valve timing).

New Targa model with panoramic, sliding-glass roof and wider-body Carrera 4S introduced 2004: Facelifted GT3 (Series 2) with 381bhp. Cabriolet versions of Carrera 4S and Turbo, plus 450bhp Turbo S 2005: 997 Carrera models replace 996 Carrera 2 and 4, but 996 Turbo, Turbo S and GT3 continue. At end of 2005, all 996 production ceases

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £14,000 Good: £25,000 Excellent: £35,000 169

BUYING GUIDE

2004 –2013

Porsche 997 Blending classic-inspired looks and a healthy dose of modernity, could the 997 Carrera be peak 911?

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HE 996 HAD PROVEN TO be a popular car, even if ardent Porsche enthusiasts didn’t quite take to the ‘fried-egg’ headlights. Mechanically the new 997 was an evolution of that car, but inside and out it was a welcome return to a design reminiscent of the 993.

Upon launch it was available with either a 325bhp 3.6-litre flat-six engine, which was a carry-over from the 996 (Carrera), or a newly developed 355bhp 3.8-litre power unit (Carrera S), and you could choose from coupé, convertible or Targa bodystyles. A four-wheel-drive setup was introduced later in 2004, complete with a wider bodyshell.

When it came to transmissions, a newly designed six-speed manual or a Tiptronic automatic were the original choices.

Other than the additional power, the S versions also came with Porsche’s

brand-new PASM stability-management system fitted as standard.

The big update came in 2009, when new direct-injection powerplants were introduced, adding even more muscle. At the same time, the sporty PDK transmission replaced the ageing Tiptronic unit.

In 2011 the 399bhp 3.8-litre Carrera GTS was introduced, with the wider, fourwheel-drive bodyshell. It could be had in coupé and convertible guises.

“The 997 is the sweet spot for the 911 – it had the same designers as the 993 involved, including Tony Hatter,” explains Mark Sumpter of specialist Paragon Porsche (www.paragongb.com). “They’re becoming just as loved as the 993, because if you drive a new 911 they’re a bit too big for the UK’s A- and B-roads, whereas the 997 isn’t. They’re modern enough to use every day, yet old enough to still have classic sports car character.”

PORSCHE

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

Other than to the driver’s side bolster and gearknob, wear in the quality cabin should be minimal.

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Although intermediate shaft (IMS) bearings have been known to fail on a number of earlier cars, the issue is nowhere near as bad as some online naysayers have made out. Post-2005 models have upgraded bearings, and Gen 2 cars got rid of the IMS shaft completely.

The rear main seal (RMS) can also drip oil, and this can be sorted out when the clutch is replaced, because the gearbox needs removing to get to the seal. Cars built from 2007 onwards are less affected by this issue. If there’s oil dripping from the back of the engine, it could be due to the tandem vacuum pump; this is more common on Gen 1 models “largely because they’re older”, according to Mark.

‘Mechanically the new 997 was an evolution of the 996, but its design was reminiscent of that of the 993’

Meanwhile, a small percentage of Gen 1 cars are affected by bore scoring – predominantly S models. An oily deposit on the left-side exhaust pipe and/or ticking during idling are tell-tale signs. A borescope will give you the best indication, so the only way to know is to get in there and have a proper look via a specialist inspection.

Another tell-tale sign is one exhaust, again usually the left, being more coked up than the other. “If the exhaust is overly valeted pre-sale, it may mean the seller knows there’s a problem,” Mark advises.

The radiators are mounted behind the front bumpers, which can accumulate leaves and road grime. Over time these can get blocked and then develop small leaks, leading to overheating issues.

The coolant crossover pipes are made from rubber, but with aluminium ends that go into steel. “You get corrosion here,” says Mark. “Get the car in the air and see if there are any signs of issues or leaks, as it’s expensive to repair – you have to drop the subframe.”

If a switchable exhaust is fitted, check that it still works, because the flap in the system can seize through lack of use. “It’s expensive to fix, and most people don’t – it’s not essential,” says Mark “You just don’t get the benefits of a sports exhaust.”

Manual gearboxes are robust, as are both the Tiptronic and PDK versions.

Some specialists recommend oil changes whenever the clutch needs replacing, which is around every 50,000 miles.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Front suspension-arm bushes are known to wear out, leading to uneven tyre wear.

“On the test drive, take the car over white lines and cat’s eyes – if you get two clonks the bushes are likely to need replacing,” says Mark. “Also look for splits in the rear coffin bushes and front A-frame bushes.”

The braking system is typically strong on all variants, and more than up to the task of fast roads. However, the static pipes can corrode. “They’re mounted in plastic clips on the underbody,” explains Mark. “One of them goes around the top of the gearbox, and if it needs removing you have to take the ’box out. Mud gets stuck to these clips, and when you take them off, you find corrosion.”

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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MODEL HISTORY 2004: Porsche 997 launched as second water-cooled 911. 325bhp 3.6-litre Carrera and 355bhp 3.8-litre Carrera S models made available, with either sixspeed manual or Tiptronic transmission options. Convertible bodystyle added mid-year. Four-wheel-drive model introduced in November

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The 997 was well galvanised, so any major rust is likely to be from poor accident repairs. However, you may find corrosion around the door-striker plate attached to the rear wing, and around the catch on the underside of the front bonnet. “It’s because there’s not much paint in those places,” says Mark. “It’s not a major problem, and is more of a visual thing.”

The interior was a step up in quality from the 996’s, and the only obvious signs of wear and tear on good cars should be around the driver’s side bolster and gearknob. “Air-con condensers can wear out, so check that all is working well. These are mounted in the nose of the car and it’s an expensive job to fix,” advises Mark.

Gen 2 cars had an upgraded Porsche Communications Management system (PCM), which some may prefer, although both set-ups will feel old compared with modern versions. “Porsche Classic is bringing out retrofit sat-nav for the 997, which will be around £1500,” says Mark.

WHICH TO BUY The 997 was a strong seller for Porsche throughout its life, and perhaps unlike with the 996, its looks have aged well as subsequent 911s have piled on the pounds.

The more powerful S is most common, with either Tiptronic or PDK transmissions in Gen 2 guise, and four-wheel drive was also very popular. Convertibles generally command higher prices than the Targas

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‘Once an expert has inspected your 997, you’re free to enjoy the best of all 911 worlds – everyday usability, with a stunning drive’ and coupés, and are much rarer, too.

“A Gen 2, S or non-S, is the pick of the range, as these are rare,” says Mark. “They produced a lot fewer 997s because of the banking crisis – you don’t see many 9/10/11-plate Porsches.” He adds that the ultimate 997 is the manual GTS, although if in the market for a Carrera, don’t be fixated on an S. “Sometimes the sweetest cars might be the standard Carreras,” he explains. He also says that while the PDK models are great, it’s the manuals that will hold their value best due to their rarity.

There are a lot of horror stories online, and while the consensus is that this is somewhat overblown considering the number of failures compared with cars sold, it’s still worth having an expert inspect any 997 thoroughly prior to purchase. Once that’s done, you’re free to enjoy the best of all 911 worlds – everyday usability, with a stunning drive.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

2009: Entire range facelifted, bringing in LED taillights plus new paint schemes, interior trim and alloys. Direct-injection engines mean no more IMS and an additional 25bhp for both models. Dualclutch PDK replaces Tiptronic gearbox 2010: Sport Classic special edition built (250 in total) with 399bhp and styling cues from classic 1973 Carrera RS 2011: Carrera GTS with 399bhp introduced. Speedster with GTSspecification engine built in limited numbers: 356 in total 2012: New 991 model gradually phases out 997 range over coming year

SPECIFICATIONS 3.6-litre flat-six Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

325-345bhp 177mph 4.8 seconds 28mpg (est.)

3.8-litre flat-six Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

355-399bhp 182mph 4.4 seconds 26mpg (est.)

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £23,000 Good: £34,000 Excellent: £40,000 (2007 Carrera S manual)

BUYING GUIDE

1996–2004

Porsche Boxster 986 The car that saved Porsche in the 1990s offered scintillating sports car giggles – and it still does

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vigour would improve matters. That came in 1999 with the 217bhp 2.7 motor, while the 250bhp 3.2 S would sit atop the range a little later on in the production cycle.

“For what they cost, you will never get a better car,” says Russell Stanley of Revolution Porsche (www.revolutionporsche.co.uk). However, he cautions: “Always buy one from an enthusiast.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The water-cooled engine’s intermediate shaft bearing (IMS) and rear main seal (RMS) failure rates are much talked about. However, while affected cars can suffer expensive problems, the issue isn’t as prevalent as online forums would have you believe. Russell says: “If you look at

MAGIC CAR PICS

ESPITE GETTING A MIXED response when it burst onto the scene back in mid-1996, continual improvements to the Porsche Boxster 986 over its lifetime have elevated the car into being one of the modern-classic greats.

The prime sources for initial displeasure were the ‘fried-egg’-style headlights and a somewhat dismal 2.5-litre flat-six motor – but Porsche issued incremental updates that addressed those issues, leading the 986 to being the class leader until the 987 was first revealed in 2004.

Nevertheless, while the original 201bhp 2.5-litre flat-six wasn’t slow, it was clear that the chassis was far too capable for the engine, and that an extra dash of vim and

Buttons, switches and door bins can feel flimsy, but the later the car, the better the build quality.

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the numbers made compared with the failures, it’s a small figure.”

Several preventive measures can keep ownership less stressful. “When you get the clutch done every 40,000-60,000 miles, just have the IMS bearing done at the same time,” advises Russell.

Most cars will have an RMS leak, but unless lubricant is pouring out of the seal, it can be replaced with the next clutch change, because the gearbox needs to be removed for the job.

On early cars, the IMS bearing was a weak point and can lead to engine failure.

Porsche upgraded the design several times, so later models are less likely to be affected. Modified bearings are also available via specialists, so check whether

‘Any decent Boxster is a joy from behind the wheel, and it offers plenty of fun and performance’

this has been done on your potential purchase. Again, a clutch change is the ideal time to perform this upgrade.

Some cars were known to suffer from scored cylinder bores. This tended to happen below 50,000 miles; if the car has lasted 20-odd years it’s unlikely to be an issue now. Nevertheless, interrogate the service history and consider getting a specialist borescope inspection. Warning signs include hot running and a creamy oil/water mixture under the oil cap.

The flat-six engine is actually robust. A service is due every 12,000 miles or annually, so beware low-mileage Boxsters bereft of regular oil changes. Missed intervals can lead to worn guides on the VarioCam timing-chain tensioner, which

is more of an issue on pre-2002 models. A lumpy idle or hesitation during acceleration could be due to a cracked HT lead or a mass airflow sensor in need of replacement.

Happily, neither is onerously expensive.

Five-speed manuals came as standard on base models, while S variants had sixratio units. You could also specify a fivespeed Tiptronic automatic. “I always recommend fluid changes,” says Russell, who says all the gearboxes are good. “A ’box service is done every two years, but if there’s no record of the oil being changed, get it done – it’s only £100 every 100k miles/ten years. I’ve seen some cars that have never had a gearbox oil change.”

If the car you’re looking at has a stiff clutch, tough changes between first and

second, or untoward noises from the rear when slotting into gear, it’s likely the transmission needs some love – and certainly an inspection pre-purchase.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES “After 100,000 miles the Boxster really needs a full suspension refresh, but it could be earlier than that depending on how the car has been used and on what roads,” Russell says. Rear lower-arm bushes and rose joints on the trailing arms should be replaced every 40k miles. Creaking noises when turning or riding bumps suggests worn or cracked springs, and any evidence of uneven tyre wear should be investigated.

While this might be a simple case of adjusting the tracking, it might mean

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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MODEL HISTORY 1996: Porsche 986 Boxster launched with mid-mounted 201bhp 2.5-litre six-cylinder engine. Five-speed manual or Tiptronic gearboxes offered 1999: 217bhp 2.7 becomes base engine; 250bhp 3.2 Boxster S introduced with uprated brakes and six-speed gearbox 2001: PSM anti-skid system introduced worn suspension components instead.

Standard brake pads and discs (larger up front on the S) are excellent, but original Porsche replacement parts are not cheap, so look out for warped discs or pads with not much life left in them. Discs can corrode if the car is left for long periods. “People tend to wash them, polish them and then put them away without driving the car and drying the discs,” says Russell. “Moisture then gets trapped, leading to corrosion after just 3000 miles.”

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR While the Boxster isn’t known for its susceptibility to corrosion, it’s worth checking around the arches and under the car for signs of rot. “We rarely see issues with bodywork,” says Russell. “We only see issues with badly damaged cars.”

Nevertheless, any blocked drainage channels can cause water to pool behind the seats, which corrodes the rear arches over time or causes ECU damage.

The air-con and engine radiators nestle low behind the front bumpers, and can accumulate road debris and dirt. If they are in good nick it’s a sign the owner has done preventive maintenance; if not, they may have corroded and need replacing.

The plastic rear screen on early cars had a tendency to haze and crack over time.

These can be replaced with glass items, which facelifted cars have as standard. The top mechanism needs periodic lubrication.

Buttons, switches and door bins can feel 176

flimsy, but the later the car, the better the build quality. Ensure the fabric roof closes snugly around the frameless windows, and that wear on seat bolsters, pedals and steering wheel match up to the mileage.

WHICH TO BUY The Boxster’s emotive drive and timeless design make it a highly usable modern classic. Although early cars are temptingly cheap, we suggest spending a little extra on a much-improved post-facelift one. Mileage isn’t too much of a concern, as long as servicing intervals have been adhered to.

Rarely used Boxsters tend to have more issues than regularly enjoyed examples.

For keeping costs to a minimum, a 2.7litre Boxster is a fine option, especially the post-2002-03 models. The 3.2 S variants offer a healthy performance boost over their lower-powered stablemates, but without a huge price differential. Russell agrees: “The best one is the 3.2 S facelift; it has the most powerful engine, and the VarioCam Plus adds an extra dimension.”

While a post-facelift manual model would be the one to seek out, any decent Boxster is a joy from behind the wheel, and at current prices it offers plenty of fun and performance for the money.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £3500 Good: £6100 Excellent: £7900 (2001 3.2 S)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

2002: Facelift carried out, interior gets new steering wheel and glovebox, as well as glass rear window. Front indicators now clear units, and new wheel and body-colour options made available 2003: Power increased to 225bhp for 2.7 cars, while S gets bumped up to 258bhp 2004: Special-edition 550 Spyder released. All 1953 examples painted GT Silver Metallic and fitted with MO30 sports suspension and sports exhaust.

Power now up to 266bhp. Last Boxster rolls off production line, with more than 160,000 produced in total

SPECIFICATIONS 2.5-litre flat-six (1996 M96) Power: 201bhp Top speed: 149mph 0-60mph: 6.7 seconds Economy: 31.7mpg 2.7-litre flat-six (1999 M96) Power: 217bhp (225bhp post 2002) Top speed: 155mph 0-60mph: 6.5 seconds Economy: 32mpg (est.)

3.2-litre flat-six (1999 M96) Power: 250bhp (258bhp post 2002) Top speed: 162mph 0-60mph: 5.6 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

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BUYING GUIDE

2005–2012

Porsche Boxster/ Cayman 987 Improving on a runaway success wasn’t easy – but this iteration took the fight back to Audi and BMW

I

N 2005, THE FIRST OF THE 987 ‘Gen 1’ (or 987.1) Boxsters entered the world in non-S and S form, carrying over the respective 2.7and 3.2-litre flat-sixes from the previous generation, albeit now with more power.

Tiptronic remained as an option on both cars; the non-S used a five-speed manual ’box while the S received six ratios.

The following year saw the Boxster get a new coupé-shelled brother in the form of the Cayman. It was launched as an S only with an uprated 3.4-litre engine; it took another year for a 2.7-litre non-S to

join the range. The faster Cayman S previewed the powerplant that would soon grace the Boxster S. From 2007, the Boxster and Cayman line-ups ran with parallel-specification motors.

By 2008, all new engines that would preview the ‘Gen 2’ (987.2) Boxster and Cayman ranges were announced. Arriving in 2009, the non-S cars went up from 2.7 to 2.9 litres, and the larger 3.4-litre units in the S also got direct injection for more muscle. While the engines were more powerful in both car ranges, the equivalent Caymans got 10bhp more regardless of

‘They have reached a low price point.

Many are now owned by people who can’t really afford to run them’

model. At the end of the 2000s, new variants of the Boxster and Cayman moved the cars beyond the S; the Spyder and R respectively were significantly lightened, simplified versions of each model. Black Editions ran the 987 Boxster and Cayman out; essentially they were limited-run, allblack versions of the Spyder and R. The all-new 981 took over in 2012.

PORSCHE

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

Trim wears well, having much in common with the 987’s 911 stablemate, but check the electrics.

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Sean Dewhurst, director of Flat Six Classics (www.flatsixclassics.co.uk), says that the Gen 1 (987.1) cars have more mechanical issues than the post-2009 Gen 2 (987.2) cars, but points out that the elephant in the room – the IMS bearing, which transfers drive from the crankshaft

to the camshafts – is nowhere near as bad on the 987 as it was on the 986.

“There is a chance with a 3.2-litre engine [on the early 987 S] that there is an earlier-specification bearing,” he says.

“It’s worth keeping an ear out; if they start to go, they make that ‘whowhowho’ noise similar to a dying wheel bearing.” Listen for this noise at idle; if the IMS bearing is beginning to break up you’ll hear a pronounced rattle, because it runs the timing chains on one side of the engine.

Cylinder-bore scoring is the other issue to watch for – and this affects the 987.1 3.4-litre motors only: “It can happen to engines at any age and any mileage,” Sean says. “If it gets severe enough, you’ll get oil being burnt in the combustion chambers

as it gets past the rings. Having a blue puff of smoke on start-up is completely normal, owing to the lack of drainage gradient for the oil.” Any more than a ‘chuff’ requires further investigation, however; it should clear within a few seconds, and any longer than that could suggest bore scoring.

Later, 987.2 cars featured all-new, redesigned engines (of 2.9 and 3.4 litres), which suffered from neither of these issues: “It’s one reason why Gen 2 cars are so much more expensive,” Sean explains.

Manual ’boxes, in five and six-speed guises, are robust; ditto the PDK (Porsche Double Clutch) units fitted optionally to 987.2s. Sean says: “The Tiptronic units fitted to earlier cars aren’t too bad, either,

but if something does break, you can’t buy parts; Porsche will only sell whole units.”

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The 987 used McPherson-strut suspension with ball-jointed and bushed arms front and rear, known as ‘coffin arms’. The bushes in the body of the arms can start to pull itself apart and require replacement: “They are almost a service item,” Sean explains. “If they start to creak over potholes or speed humps when warm, they need replacing, but it is neither a big deal nor particularly expensive.”

The rear suspension uses a long trailing arm; a ‘tuning fork’. Its inner end is bolted to the shell near the driver using a rose joint, which can wear. The clue is a hollow

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

179

MODEL HISTORY 2005: Boxster 987.1 launched. Non-S has 237bhp, and S 276bhp. Five and six speeds respectively; Tiptronic, Porsche Active Suspension Management (PASM), Porsche Ceramic Composite Brakes (PCCB) and Sport Chrono package optional 2006: Small power upgrade for non-S (now 241bhp) and S (now 291bhp); Cayman S launches Cayman coupé, with 295bhp. Boxster S now switches from 3.2-litre engine to 3.4 Cayman S powerplant, albeit slightly detuned 2007: Non-S Cayman revealed with 245bhp from 2.7-litre engine knocking noise under your seat; test this by rolling along slowly, foot off the gas.

“These take 20 minutes to replace, but they often get missed because they won’t show up on an MoT test,” Sean says. Of the brakes, he adds: “These last quite a while because the cars are light. They are not too expensive to replace.”

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR No serious body issues have been reported, so any rot could hint at poor crash repairs.

There are air-con radiators and condensers either side of the car; the latter live in pods below the headlights. Says Sean: “These get hit by stones that go through the meshless air intakes. Eventually your air-con packs up; anyone who says it ‘just needs a re-gas’ is lying. The condensers are £100 each, and replacing them is a two or threehour job, as the bumper has to come off.”

Interiors are hard wearing, having much in common with the contemporary 911.

Do check that all of the electrics work, however, as the 987 was an earlier adopter of the CANBUS standard for wiring.

WHICH TO BUY “They are complicated cars that have reached a low price point,” concludes Shaun. “Many are now owned by people who can’t really afford to run them. A decent service history is a must. The perfect car is an early 2.7, built from late 2005 with the bigger IMS bearing; they don’t suffer from bore scoring. If you must have more

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‘No serious body issues have been reported; any rot in a car you’re looking at could hint at poor crash repairs’

power, get an S checked for scoring. I’d also have a manual rather than a Tiptronic; if you can afford a Gen 2, they’re all brilliant.

“I’d have a 2.7 on 17-inch wheels; it makes a big difference to the ride/handling balance.

The roadholding is so good you’re never going to get near its limits on the road.”

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £15,000 (2.9 non-S) Good: £18,000 (2.9 non-S) Excellent: £22,000 (Boxster S 987.2)

SPECIFICATIONS 3.4-litre flat-six (Boxster S Gen 2/987.2) Power: 306bhp Top speed: 170mph 0-60mph: 5.3 seconds Economy: 28mpg

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

2008: RS 60 Boxster Spyder launched in homage to 1960 718 RS 60 Spyder: 299bhp from sports exhaust, standard-fit PASM, special front spoiler, metallic silver paint and 19in Porsche Sport Design alloys. 1960 made. Boxster S Porsche Design Edition 2 debuts September, with RS 60’s 299bhp engine and Carrera White paint. Gen 2 (987.2) Boxster/Cayman announced late this year. Cayman S Design Edition 1 and Cayman S Sport Edition arrive 2009: Boxster/Cayman Gen 2 (987.2) released; all-new engines negate IMS reliability issues. Non-S up to 2.9 litres (251bhp) and S has direct-injected 306bhp 3.4. Six-speed manuals standard on both cars; seven-speed PDK replaces five-ratio Tiptronic as switchable auto option. Steering and suspension changes, limited-slip diff option, styling changes include bi-xenon front lights and LED rears. Each Cayman model now 10bhp more powerful than equivalent Boxster 2010: Boxster Spyder is one notch above S; 80kg lighter, 316bhp version of 3.4-litre direct-injection S engine. Manual roof and aluminium panels, 20mm-lower suspension and LSD. New Cayman R is 55kg lighter than Cayman S, stripped out with fewer accessories; 330bhp 3.4-litre engine 2011: Black Editions wind down Boxster and Cayman 987.2 ranges. Spyder and R engines used, along with black paint, upholstery and trim. Sales finish in 2012

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2003–2005

Smart Roadster Nippy, pocket sized and fun wherever you go, the Smart Roadster may be the perfect usable sports car on today’s speed-restricted roads

R

EAR-WHEEL-DRIVE, MIDengined and turbocharged – sounds like something Italian, exotic and very expensive. But behind those words lie 698cc, 80bhp and a minuscule weight figure. Say hello to the diminutive Smart Roadster.

Its innate lightness made it sharp to drive, with predictable handling on the limit. At its 2003 launch, you could choose from a Coupé or Roadster, while a sportier Brabus version joined the range in 2004.

A conventional manual ’box was never offered, with all models using a six-speed 182

semi-auto. While a bit slow as a self-shifter, it performed well enough in manual mode.

“When the Roadster first came out there was nothing like it. There still isn’t, especially for the money,” says Paul Woolley of Smart Autos (www.smart-autos.co.uk).

“It’s a two-seater sports car that can do 5060mpg and still provide a massive grin.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX All RHD Smart Roadsters used an uprated 80bhp 698cc three-cylinder turbo derived from the Smart ForTwo. Smart imported a few LHD cars pre-launch, but these had

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

60bhp units and no oil cooler. “The cooler in the 80bhp cars saves the engine,” explains Paul. “They last much longer, with some cars reaching 200,000 miles.”

Brabus-monikered Smarts came with 101bhp, and a factory-fitted SP2 power kit boosted standard cars to 90bhp. Both can be taken to 110bhp with a specialist remap.

Oil changes should be done every 7000 miles. Excessive smoking suggests the turbo seals or bearings need replacing.

“When the spindle goes on the turbo, it smokes like a steam train,” Paul says.

Inspect the underside for any signs of oil leaks or cracked exhaust manifolds, although Paul explains this issue is less of a concern now: “Non-functional cycle valves and limit valves lead to a loss in turbo-boost pressure. When they are replaced, you need to delete the error code for them to work again.”

Cracked HT leads or faulty coils are usually the culprit behind misfires or rough running. In extreme cases exhaust valves may be damaged, or it could just be that the spark plugs are past their sell-by date.

The aluminium air-conditioner hose

was known to snap. A rubber replacement is one solution. “A lot of the time the aluminium hoses snap off and are never replaced, so don’t be surprised if the aircon isn’t working,” Paul explains. “Pipes are £150 each and you need two, so getting it working again can be expensive.”

Contrary to popular opinion, Brabus cars did not have slightly faster gearshifts.

However, the otherwise optional paddleshifters available to the normal models were fitted as standard. “The Finale edition – like a Brabus but not – didn’t have standard paddle-shift,” Paul says.

The gearboxes are known to be robust, and unabused clutches are long lasting, although be aware of any juddering when pulling away or especially of slurred gearchanges. “Juddering will be due to oil contamination on the clutch, meaning the end oil seal has failed. And if you get thumping on the clutch, that’s down to a poorly adjusted actuator,” says Paul.

“The actuator needs regular adjusting, and should be done with every service.”

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The Smart’s lightweight body means that the suspension components and tyres are relatively unstressed. Wheel-alignment checks are advised because tracking can often be off, and uneven tyre wear and odd clonking sounds should be a cause for concern on the test drive.

Because, the rear brakes are drum units, the shoes require replacement less frequently than the pads up front. Some can be neglected, and seized drum adjusters have been reported.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The car is well known for leaking, and although there was a recall early on in the production run, a Roadster not regularly parked under cover can still let in water.

Inspect the area around the roof and the bulkhead, as corrosion here can lead to wiring-loom damage and costly electronic issues. Water ingress can also be found around the boot seals and front bulkhead.

“Remove the door rubber and feel beneath the footwell carpet,” advises Paul. “That’s where the SAM unit (ECU) and electronic repairs will be. The carpet

acts like a sponge and holds in the moisture, so it will feel bone dry on top.”

If the SAM unit is looking a bit green and dodgy, you’re facing £700 for a new fitted and coded unit, he adds.

The rest of the Smart’s bodywork isn’t usually problematic, although the lacquer can start peeling on the plastic body. The Coupé’s removable roof panels are not always rattle free when in position.

The interior holds up well to wear and tear, but do check that all the buttons and switches operate correctly. Pay particular attention to the dashboard lights, and the power roof on the convertible.

“Make sure the roof folds the right way.

Sometimes the last segment folds inside rather than outside the car, meaning it gets jammed on the rubbers. You can just push it out and then close it,” says Paul.

Brabus models had heated front seats: “If it’s got these and air-con, any glowing of those lights when they’re switched off is a sign of electrical and damp issues.”

WHICH TO BUY Although the car was produced between 2003-05, some may be listed as 2006 or 2007 models. However, this was due to unsold stock taking a while to sell.

Higher mileages are not generally a concern, but a lack of a verifiable service history may mean unforeseen expenditure down the line. Brabus models are rare and offer a bit more performance, while the even rarer RCR may appeal to collectors.

However, a standard Roadster in either bodystyle is still plenty of fun. Unless it’s in exceptional condition, a cheap LHD import is best avoided.

“I’ve always advised buying one with the sports pack – 16in wheels and paddle-shift.

Heated seats are nice but not essential, unless you always have the roof open,” says Paul. “The real future classic is the Brabus version, but they’re hard to find.”

It may be small, but the Smart Roadster is big fun whichever variant you settle for.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £2000 Good: £4500 Excellent: £9000 (2004 Roadster)

SMART

BUYING GUIDE

Sharp to drive, economical and with plenty of smiles per mile, the Smart is a great buy.

MODEL HISTORY 2003: Smart Roadster and Roadster Coupé introduced. Initially available with uprated 80bhp 698cc turbocharged triple. Earlier LHD imports from Smart have 60bhp engine and no oil cooler 2004: Brabus model launched with 101bhp. Notable features include twin exhausts, lowered suspension and monoblock alloy wheels. Cheaper Roadster Light model arrives on steel wheels and without air-con or radio 2005: RCR (Roadster-Coupé Racing) model introduced, with 50 units produced worldwide. Power output up to 90bhp thanks to optional no-cost Brabus SP2 power kit. Body panels in red and silver, and interior receives some minor cosmetic changes 2007: Final Smart Roadsters sold – although production officially ended in 2005

SPECIFICATIONS 698cc inline-three (Roadster and Coupé) Power: 80bhp (90bhp with power kit) Top speed: 109mph 0-60mph: 10.7 seconds Economy: 55mpg 698cc inline-three (Brabus and RCR) Power: 101bhp Top speed: 119mph 0-60mph: 9.8 seconds Economy: 53.3mpg

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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BUYING GUIDE

1959–1968

Sunbeam Alpine and Tiger Its saloon-car origins may not have been glamorous, but the Alpine became a sporty icon even before Carroll Shelby made the V8-engined Tiger burn bright

T

In 1963 , the Series 3 saw more radical changes, with two models offered. The GT featured a removable hardtop only and had a detuned version of the 1.6-litre engine, while the ST boasted a soft-top that could be stored behind the rear seats.

This Series 3 combined the high-fin look with the improvements more readily seen on the later cars: a roomier boot, tubestyle rear dampers, better seats and a vacuum-operated brake booster.

The Series 4 of 1964 saw the detuned engine dropped from the range, although the model lineage remained. The rear end was restyled with lower fins, too. And the Series 5 appeared in 1965 with a new 1.7litre engine with a twin-carburettor-fed

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE ORIGINAL SUNBEAM Alpine had been a successful rally car, but Rootes – keen to capitalise on an apparently insatiable US appetite for British sports cars – knew it needed to up its game.

The result was the Series Alpine, which saw a Kenneth Howes and Jeff Crompton body draped over a Hillman 14/Hawk chassis and Rapier drivetrain, but with front disc brakes rather than drums.

The newcomer also featured independent front suspension with coil springs, while there was a live axle and semi-elliptic springs at the rear. Power came from a 1.5-litre inline-four, which was upgraded to a 1.6 unit after a year for the Series 2.

Renewing black plastic dash top is a windscreen-out job, while dodgy wiring is best replaced.

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‘Good-looking car that turns heads.

Different to an MG or Triumph, comfortable and drives really nicely’

93bhp. All production ceased in 1968.

The Alpine provided the basis of the Tiger, a Carroll Shelby-designed hot rod that blended a small, light roadster chassis with a big American V8 – something he had form for… Although much of the exterior remained the same as on the Alpine, the suspension was upgraded to deal with the 20 percent extra weight the Tiger carried. It used a Panhard rod on the rear axle and stiffer front springs.

While the factory designated only a Mk1 and Mk2, there are three versions.

The Mk1 used a 164bhp 4.3-litre V8 that was good for 0-60mph in less than nine seconds. During its 1964-1967 run the Tiger’s exterior styling changed to match the Alpine’s panelwork, and as such these

tend to be known as Mk1As. A Mk2 model with a 4.7 V8 was made available in 1967, but just ten cars stayed behind in Blighty.

“The Alpine is a good-looking car that certainly turns heads,” says Stuart Wilkinson of specialist Forest Custom and Classics (www.forestcustom.co.uk).

“They’re different to an MG or a Triumph, and are comfortable and drive really nicely. The Tiger is more of a hot rod, with more power, torque and that V8 sound.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Aside from the usual checks for milky oil (water ingress) and blue smoke indicating worn bores, rings or tappets, check the oil pressures. At 2000rpm it should be 50psi for 1.5/1.6 engines, and 40psi for the

1.7. Any coolant leaking down the back of the block isn’t good news, because it means a core plug is likely to be corroded.

Manual gearboxes are long lasting, and rebuild kits are available should the worst happen; any rumbling indicates worn bearings. A non-functioning overdrive could be caused by electrical issues or worn servo seals. Automatic gearbox fluid should be red, not brown.

“Early ’boxes don’t have synchro on first gear – late ones do – and there are overdrive and non-overdrive units,” says Stuart. “Early clutches and later ones are different sizes, and if they get mixed up you can have problems with releasing the clutch and changing gear.”

The Tiger’s Ford V8 is well known, but

accommodating such a large unit under the bonnet meant moving several items, and working on it can be challenging with such little space. There should be an access hole in the left-hand side of the trans tunnel to allow you access to spark plug eight. Given the engine’s innate tuneability, you’re likely to find modified examples: “If you start upping the power it’s advisable to upgrade the bushes and dampers and fit a larger anti-roll bar, but the brakes are the first weak link,” advises Stuart.

However the biggest problem relates to having such a big engine in a small space – cooling. “If the cooling system is not up to scratch you’ll have massive problems, such as overheating in traffic,” says Stuart. “A lot of aftermarket upgrades

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are available.” Meanwhile, the Tiger’s gearbox came from Ford, and is robust and easy to find bits for. “However, it’s only a four-speeder, so it’s not great for cruising,” says Stuart. “We’ve converted loads to a five-ratio transmission.”

He advises that because it’s an exterior change, it’s prone to wear and eventually becomes sloppy. Clutches can be heavy.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES While the Alpine’s suspension is relatively simple, Series 1-3 cars require regular kingpin greasing; later cars use ball-joints that don’t, although they still need checking. Early cars have rear lever-arm dampers that could leak. There are a lot of joints between the steering box and the front wheels, so hoist the car in the air and get a friend to move the steering wheel back and forth to check for any play. Move the swinging link below the box – you shouldn’t be able to pull it down. If the caster angle is wrong, the alloy wedges under the front subframe may be corroded.

“The Tiger does have stiffer springs, but the dampers are the same as on the Alpine,” says Stuart. “The Tiger has a rack-and-pinion steering rack because the Alpine’s box wouldn’t fit due to the V8 powerplant being in the way.”

He says the rack’s geometry isn’t very good – “you can’t push a Tiger around the garage on full lock” – and that it’s heavy; upgrading to a power set-up is an option. “Check for play in the rack, rod 186

ends, plus steering column top and bottom bearings,” adds Stuart. “Be very conscious of play here, as right-handdrive steering racks are hard to locate.”

If you find fluid stains around the backplates of the rear drums, a leaking wheel cylinder is likely and hydraulic fluid has contaminated the brake shoes.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR “Put the car on a ramp – the door gaps can widen, but if it’s excessive the inner sills have badly corroded,” says Stuart. Check for rust at the ends of the box sections, the reinforcing section at the chassis’s tail and the rear springs’ front mountings.

Other grot spots include the rear wheelarches, inner wings, bulkhead seams, boot floor and lid, sills, floors, front chassis legs and leading edge of the front wings over the headlamps. “The windscreen surrounds can also go, but

‘The Series 3 has still got the fins, but with the later, more usable boot and two fuel tanks. It’s just a pretty car and the rarest version’

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

you can’t see them because they’re under rubber,” says Stuart. The scuttle in front of the screen can corrode as well.

In hot countries, the sun can crack the black plastic dash top. “It’s a windscreenout job to replace,” says Stuart, although the bits are readily available. “Gauges can be restored or new ones are available. The correct optional extra clock for each version is highly desirable.”

The electrics are simple, but a damaged or badly tweaked loom is best ditched for a replacement. “This is particularly true with amateur-fitted ammeters,” says Stuart.

“With a wood dash, it’s a recipe for a fire.”

WHICH TO BUY Such is the rarity of the Alpine and Tiger in RHD form, you may not have a great deal of choice. However, Stuart does have a firm favourite in terms of the Alpine: “The Series 3 – you’ve still got the fins on the back, but with the later, more usable boot and two fuel tanks,” he says. “It’s just a pretty car and the rarest version.”

There’s even less of a choice for Tigers, because there are hardly any in right-hand drive. Stuart has started to see originality becoming more desirable, but that’s not necessarily a good thing, he believes: “As originals they have skinny little wheels, not enough power and they don’t handle.

They were really a hot rod from new, and as such I’d choose an early Mk1 ‘round corner’ car that’s been upgraded for more power and better handling.”

SPECIFICATIONS

MODEL HISTORY

1.5-litre inline-four (Alpine Series 1) Power: 78bhp Top speed: 101mph 0-60mph: 14.0 seconds Economy: 28mpg

1959: Series 1 Alpine launched

1.6-litre inline-four (Alpine Series 2-4) Power: 82bhp ST/77bhp GT Top speed: 100mph 0-60mph: 14.0 seconds Economy: 28mpg 1.7-litre inline-four (Alpine Series 5) Power: 93bhp . speed: Top 98mph 0-60mph: 13.6 seconds Economy: 28mpg (est) 4.3-litre V8 (Tiger Mk1/1A) Power: 164bhp Top speed: 120mph 0-60mph: 8.6 seconds Economy: 24mpg 4.7-litre V8 (Tiger Mk2) Power: 200bhp Top speed: 122mph 0-60mph: 7.5 seconds Economy: 24mpg From the Alpine’s tuned inline-four to the Tiger’s monster V8, the diminutive Sunbeam sports car offers plenty of smiles per mile.

1960: Series 2 Alpine arrives with 1.6-litre engine and revised suspension 1963: Series 3 Alpine splits into two models: GT with removable hardtop, and ST with stowable soft-top. GT receives slightly detuned engine 1964: Series 4 Alpine sees detuned engine and smaller rear fins. Revised manual ’box with synchro on first gear made available, as is three-speed auto option. Tiger Mk1 makes its debut, sporting Carroll Shelby-developed 4.3-litre V8 and chassis tweaks 1965: Series 5 launched with 1.7-litre capacity and further styling tweaks, which are carried over to Tiger (known colloquially as Mk1A) 1967: Tiger Mk2 appears with 4.7-litre V8 powerplant, and all but ten are sold to US market. Tiger production wraps up in same year 1968: Series Alpine production ceases

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £27,000 Good: £42,000 Excellent: £65,000 (1966 Tiger) SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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1991–1997

Suzuki Cappuccino Frothy, fun and invigorating, this diminutive roadster is very much like its namesake

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HE SUZUKI CAPPUCCINO is the foil to those who say you need big engine displacement for maximum motoring fun.

This titchy roadster conformed to Japanese kei car regulations, which meant that the motor could be no bigger than 660cc (the Suzuki is actually 657cc), its power no greater than 63bhp and its top speed no more than 87mph; this car actually does 85mph all-out. If that

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sounds dull, then consider the dimensions – it’s 3.3m long and 1.4m wide. Still not sounding much like a sports car? Then consider the weight: just 725kg.

The Cappuccino’s lack of girth makes for sprightly performance from the threecylinder turbo, but the sportiness goes further. The rear-wheel-drive chassis is an exquisitely balanced 50/50 split with a front mid-engined layout, the engine revs to 6500rpm and you get aluminium

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

double-wishbone suspension. It also seats four, and the removable roof panels means you get a coupé, T-top, targa or full convertible all in one. Oh and it’s frugal, too, at an enticing 42mpg.

Most kei cars rarely leave Japan, but the Cappuccino was different, and in 1992 the first version of the model (known as the EA11R) made its debut at the British Motor Show. Priced at £11,995 it severely undercut its competitors, but it remained exclusive with just 1182 allocated to the UK initially. Only 1110 came here in the end. These cars were available only in red or silver, while Japanese buyers had a further eight hues to choose from.

By 1995, tougher emissions regulations meant that despite the best efforts of Suzuki’s European arm, the Cappuccino’s official endeavours in the West ended.

Conforming to them would have involved expensive re-homologation.

The same year saw the launch of the home-market EA21R version, which had a lighter engine with chain-driven camshafts, a bit more torque and lighter wheels. A three-speed automatic gearbox was an

BUYING GUIDE

ENGINE AND GEARBOX While the powerplant is known to be robust, strict adherence to maintenance schedules is imperative. You’re looking at service intervals of around 3000 miles, which gives UK cars the edge unless you’ve a decent grasp of Japanese for an import.

However, that edge diminishes in other areas – more on that later. The turbo isn’t known for a high rate of failure, but it’s still worth checking for oil smoke from the exhaust, which indicates a short lifespan. Cambelts last 60,000 miles. If the idle-control valve is tapping away – as indicated by a ticking noise under the bonnet – it can be pricey to replace, while a dying catalytic converter can be the cause of an erratic idle.

Weak synchros are a known problem for these cars. Fixing them is an expensive job, so do avoid a crunchy transmission.

Second ratio is normally where the issue arises, but if this gear is simply tricky to engage, don’t worry – they’re all like that, particularly when cold.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The suspension does not present any particular inherent problems, but with even the newest Cappuccino now 25 years old, fresh bushes will help immeasurably.

Other than that, it’s a customary check for knocks, rattles and hums. Any worn wheel bearings will be horrendously loud, and replacing the rear sets is a labourintensive job because a fair amount of the braking system has to come off.

On the subject of the stoppers, the rear calipers are known to leak. However, it’s worth considering that many Suzukis were second or even third cars, and may have spent a lot of time sitting. Therefore you may experience seized calipers.

BODY AND INTERIOR UK cars received some rust protection but such measures only last so long, and the Cappuccino does like to rot. You’ll need to check floorpans, sills and arches.

Although many of the lower body panels are made of plastic, they only serve to hide the metal – or lack thereof – behind.

Numberplate surrounds and the engine bay (particularly the turret tops) are known weak spots, too. If buying an imported car, get it rust treated before it even touches the UK road network; these had none of the British models’ protection.

The aluminium roof panels, bootlid and bonnet are fragile, as are the rubber seals that encase them. These can crack and let water into the interior. Higher-mileage cars can show wear in the cabin, although the leather-effect seats hold up to repeated use fairly well. Electric windows can be slow to operate, but it’s nothing a dash of WD-40 can’t fix.

A bigger problem might be awkward electrics elsewhere, particularly on the Japanese-market cars. Poor wiring for rear foglights, alarms and aftermarket stereos are a common source of woe.

MAGIC CAR PICS

option. Some of these later versions have been brought to the UK as private imports.

Both guises of the car offered a deluxe BA variant, which featured four-wheel ABS, a limited-slip differential and an airbag, and some also received electrically operated door mirrors. Limited-edition models boasted some colour and trim differences, and two had power steering.

Production wrapped up in 1997.

The leather-effect seats hold up well to use, but aftermarket electrics can be a problem.

‘The Cappuccino is proof that the best things do indeed come in small packages – and also that tiny can be mighty’

WHICH TO BUY UK cars are a lot harder to find than their Japanese counterparts, but their service history is easier to understand. On the other hand, many British winters will have taken their toll on all but the most lovingly cared-for examples.

Imported models can be tempting, whether for the greater choice of paint colours or the upgraded specification on later cars. However, you will need to scrupulously check that any potential buy was rust protected soon after arrival.

The Suzuki Cappuccino is proof that the best things do indeed come in small packages – and also that tiny can be mighty. Buy well and these engaging little sports cars will reward you with relatively trouble-free running.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £2000 Good: £4000 Excellent: £6000 (1993 UK car)

MODEL HISTORY 1991: Cappuccino sales begin in Japan 1993: UK Cappuccino sales start 1995: UK sales come to halt. Back at home in Japan, Suzuki upgraded with lighter, chain-driven engine, additional torque, lighter wheels and option of automatic transmission 1997: Production ceases

SPECIFICATIONS 0.7-litre turbo inline-three Power: 63bhp Top speed: 85mph 0-60mph: 8.0 seconds Economy: 42mpg

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1998–2006

Toyota MR2 Mk3 Toyota’s third-generation MR2 was very much a backto-basics affair, and that traditional Japanese reliability wasn’t quite as on the mark as it should have been…

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NTHUSIASTIC DRIVERS will agree there’s a lot to like about Toyota’s third-generation MR2. It’s mid-engined and rearwheel drive, plus it has a lively engine, well balanced chassis and quirky looks. It’s also a bit different – a left-field alternative to, say, a Mazda MX-5 or MGF/TF. The car debuted at the 1999 Tokyo Motor Show as the MR-S, a name it took from a

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1998 concept. The MR2 name was retained for Europe, while in the US it became the MR2 Spyder. Its maker’s code was W30.

In line with Toyota’s move to simplify production for all markets, one engine was offered globally, the all-alloy 1.8-litre DOHC 16v VVT-i 1ZZ-FE also used in the seventh-generation Celica along with the RAV4 and Avensis. With 138bhp, the MR2 had the highest power-to-weight ratio in

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

its class, and it was particularly praised in the motoring press for its dart-like responses and balanced handling. But the engine was also its Achilles’ heel…

In 2001, the slick manual ’box was joined by an optional five-speed (and later six-speed) SMT Sequential Manual Transmission. The first sequential unit in any Japanese car, its automatically engaging clutch let the driver change gear without having to lift off the accelerator, much in the way that Volkswagen’s DSG works but with less electronic intervention.

The MR2 was initially a strong seller, but as trends changed and sports cars became less fashionable in the early 2000s, sales tailed off. By 2004, the MR2 was sold only in Japan and Europe, and by 2007 it had disappeared from the market.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX With its clever Variable Valve Timing, the MR2 delivers its power in a raw and frantic manner, revving freely and eagerly up to 7000rpm. The 0-60mph sprint is dispatched in 7.7 seconds, with that lovely snick-snack gearchange adding to the

BUYING GUIDE

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Other than general wear and tear, the MR2 doesn’t tend to suffer from any specific suspension or braking issues. Do check for the usual signs of wear in bushes, track rods and steering joints, though.

Front struts wear with age and will need replacing at 100,000 miles, while various common suspension and steering upgrades carried out by tuners can make sourcing replacement parts quite tricky.

Later third-generation MR2s boasted

stronger and more robust underbody bracing. Many drivers find this improves the driving feel on the road, but specialists suggest it makes very little difference.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR While the MR2 is relatively robust, the earliest Mk3s are over 20 years old and so not immune to rot. Most of the panels bolt onto a central structure, so replacement is simple, but it’s essential to check the car’s overall condition. Rust in the floors, front inner wings and lower bulkhead can be both well hidden and expensive to fix.

Check these areas thoroughly in imports, as Japanese-market cars aren’t as well rust proofed as UK ones: “That means they rot,” says Darryl. “Inspect the floors, suspension mounts, inner arches and lower valance.”

Check panel alignment carefully, too.

Those bolt-ons can lead to some hastily covered-up accident repairs, and the MR2 also has a reputation for crashing into things backwards if you lift off mid-bend.

The W30 is hugely impractical – the front ‘boot’ is barely big enough for the spare wheel and tools. There are stowage areas behind each of the seats, but you need to tilt the backrests forwards in order to access them and the cabin itself is pretty cramped. You could live with it for the occasional weekend away, but if you use an MR2 to do the weekly food shop, it would soon become quite tiresome.

The cabin is well made and durable, so if you are experiencing electrical issues that means someone has been messing about with the system.

WHICH TO BUY

TOYOTA

mix. Despite the brand’s reputation for reliability, however, early cars in particular are prone to a running fault that can render some lesser examples uneconomical to repair. The issue is with the pre-cat – a filter that works ahead of the catalytic converter to break down some exhaust gases before they enter the main unit.

“Over time the pre-cat lining breaks down, and fragments of the material inside it get sucked back into the engine, with the catastrophic effect of wearing out the piston rings,” says MR2 specialist Darryl Porter-Windley of Drift Limits Performance (www.driftlimitsperformance.co.uk). “The first sign of a problem will be high oil consumption and excessive amounts of blue smoke on the overrun, while in extreme cases the engine can lose compression on one or more cylinders and start to run erratically – or even not have enough compression to start at all.”

Experts recommend using fully synthetic 0w30 oil to help limit the problem, because it doesn’t burn quite so easily, but ultimately the issue won’t go away unless the engine is stripped and rebuilt.

If you find a car with good compression and no oil-burning problems, it may be a good idea to remove the pre-cat altogether.

This will increase the exhaust emissions but, unlike the main cat, it isn’t an MoTfailure item and the car should still adhere to emissions limits without it. Specialists make pipes that are a direct replacement for the pre-cat matrix; fitting takes an hour.

Apart from that issue (2003-on cars are supposedly far better), the MR2 is otherwise pretty robust. Its timing chain rather than a belt saves on the usual expensive changes in a mid-engined car.

The quality cabin is robust, but make sure no one has messed up the electrical system.

‘It’s mid-engined and rear-wheel drive, plus it has a lively engine, well balanced chassis and quirky looks’ MODEL HISTORY 1999: Toyota MR-S seen at Tokyo Motor Show, taking name from 1998 concept 1999: MR-Spyder goes on sale in Japan 2000: European-specification MR2 introduced with 1.8 1ZZ-FE engine 2003: MR2 gets facelift with improved cabin, underbody bracing and revised pre-cat system for improved reliability 2006: Production ends

“Choosing which W30 to go for depends on what you intend to use it for,” says Darryl. “For example, if you want a car to tune and modify, then provided you find a solid one an early Japanese import is probably the cheapest way into ownership.

Check carefully for rot, and you’ll get what you need without great expense.

“If you want a car to keep, a UK-spec example is a better bet, especially if you can find a good post-2003 model; these are far less prone to the pre-cat issue. That said, if an earlier car has already had the problem dealt with, it’s not really an issue anyway.”

SPECIFICATIONS 1.8-litre inline-four Power: 140bhp Top speed: 139mph 0-60mph: 7.7 seconds Economy: 35mpg INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £1000 Good: £3000 Excellent: £5000

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BUYING GUIDE

1953–55, 1955–62

Triumph TR2 and TR3

‘Spares availability is excellent; it’s not quite in the MGB or Jaguar E-type’s league, but it’s not far off’

Snatching victory from the jaws of defeat, this roadster established a sports car line that lasted four decades

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the direct orders of Sir John Black – and it showed. Erstwhile BRM Grand Prix driver Ken Richardson, drafted in to test the prototype, dubbed the car a “death trap”.

Not wanting to give up on the 20TS, Standard-Triumph employed Richardson to re-engineer it. He and Belgrove reworked the car, and with a year’s worth of effort from the works, the TR2 was born.

The 1953 Geneva show welcomed the newcomer, which quickly proved itself during high-speed runs at Jabbeke and class wins at Le Mans. Winning the 1954 RAC Rally helped, too. After modest sales success, the TR2 morphed into the TR3 by 1955; carburettor and head tweaks saw its 2.0-litre engine break 100bhp. By 1956, Girling front disc brakes were fitted – a

MAGIC CAR PICS

S FIRST ATTEMPTS GO, Triumph’s 20TS/TS20 (known retrospectively as the TR1) wasn’t the most successful.

Strictly speaking, it wasn’t even StandardTriumph’s maiden voyage; after three years of post-war development, the TRX, a rebodied Roadster, amounted to nothing.

By 1950, the firm had zero to show for its efforts – and boss Sir John Black watched as MG gained an increasing hold on export markets. Its cars were flying out of US dealers, and the 20TS/TS20, it was hoped, would take the fight back to Triumph.

Alas, the Walter Belgrove-styled car – revealed at the 1952 Earls Court Motor Show – had, despite its rakish looks, been rushed to the stand on a tiny budget on

The basic interior is well catered for, with seat frames, door panels and carpets easily obtained.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

sensation in a mass-produced car, even if the 1948 Crosley Hotshot, of which just 3000 or so were built, used them first.

So-called ‘small-’ or ‘narrow-mouth’ cars lasted until 1957, when the unofficially named (and restyled) ‘wide-mouth’ TR3A appeared – and sales shifted up a gear.

So beloved was the TR3A that the TR3B was created in 1962 to run concurrent with the then-unpopular TR4. Retaining the TR3A’s body, the B shoehorned the 2.1-litre four from the new car into its predecessor for a total of 3331 units.

Spares availability for the TR2 and TR3 is excellent. “It’s not quite in the MGB or E-type’s league, but it’s not far off,” says Simon Watson, director of TR Enterprises (www.trenterprises.com).

ENGINE AND GEARBOX TR3B aside, we’re dealing with the same 2.0-litre Standard-Triumph engine, save for factory revisions, carburettor upgrades or ancillary changes. Good oil pressure is the key to diagnosing a healthy motor – but all the parts needed are available new or used.

Everything that applies to the 2.0-litre can also be considered for the TR3B’s 2.1.

“Rattles or rumbling is a bad sign,” says Simon. “These engines smoke if the rings are worn; if it has less than 25psi idling, it wants attention.” Look for 50psi-plus cold, and 25psi-40psi warm; any less suggests worn big-end bearing shells, a crankshaft in need of a regrind or a dodgy oil pump.

Derived from Standard Vanguard and Ferguson TE tractor units, the TR2/3 motor

is of overhead-valve design; rocker tips and shafts can wear, but it’s not too hard to sort: “There’s no weakness per se in the engine, it is all down to age and maintenance. They will do stellar mileages with regular oil changes,” Simon says.

Cylinder-liner heights are crucial to a motor rebuild; as a wet-liner (pull-out) configuration, it’s critical that these are of correct and level height, otherwise blown head gaskets can result. Heads can crack, but new ones are available – at a cost.

TR2s, ’3s and ’3As lack synchromesh on first gear – a crunching here is nothing to worry about. The 3Bs use the TR4’s fully synchro ’boxes, and many cars have had these retro-fitted. Overdrive was an option, especially on (often now less rusty)

exports; Laycock de Normanville’s A-type was used. A desirable extra, they remain hardy if serviced – but if a non-overdrive car has been converted, check the speedocable mounting. Later J-type units have also been installed in these cars, but again the quality of the conversion is key.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES “The rubber suspension bushes can crack and become less compliant, especially if the car has been left,” Simon explains.

Upper links screw into a brass-trunnion outer joint, which can wear if the correct maintenance hasn’t been carried out.

Springs and lever dampers will wear commensurate with the age of the car and how hard it’s driven; the latter can easily

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The TR3 arrived in 1955, first boasting this narrow grille and then being restyled in 1957.

MODEL HISTORY 1952: Triumph 20TS/TS20 appears at Earls Court Motor Show 1953: Heavily revised and restyled TR2 debuts at Geneva Motor Show; cars begin production soon afterwards

be reconditioned. At the rear, it’s a similar story – don’t worry about the leaf springs, but do check their rubber mountings.

“These are not particularly heavy cars, so the springs don’t have that much to do.

Normally the shackle and eye bushes will need attention first,” Simon says. Again, everything you’ll need is available.

Brakes are relatively straightforward to look after; the cars never ran a servo: “A well maintained all-drum set-up works well; the problem [for first-time owners] is getting used to the fade,” Simon says.

Almost all components can be bought off the shelf, apart from backing plates – but the used market has this covered. Many owners convert from drums to discs, thus leaving backing plates available to buy.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The TR2 and 3 were separate chassised – which makes completing a full restoration to a high standard a body-off affair.

“The relatively simple chassis rots more at the back,” says Simon. “The front tends to be coated in engine and ’box oil. Repairs are straightforward; crash damage is the worst issue, but it can be ‘jigged’ straight.”

A really bent chassis will betray its presence with badly fitting body panels; again, secondhand and new chassis can be purchased: “The chassis from the TR2 to the TR3A was virtually identical, with just a few tiny differences,” Simon explains.

Panels were steel after a short run of early TR2 aluminium bonnets and bootlids 194

were easily damaged in service. Optional hardtops were steel; new reproductions are glassfibre. Floors, and inner and outer sills, are vulnerable, the latter especially on the early ‘long-door’ TR2s (until VIN ending TS-4002) which would frequently catch on kerbs. Later ‘short-doors’ had a proper, distinct outer sill. Wings rot, too, especially parts in contact with road salt and mud, especially where inners and outers join.

The basic interiors are well catered for; anything missing can be retrimmed, and seat frames, door panels and carpets can be ordered. Instruments and steering wheels can be reconditioned; anything missing can be found on the used market.

WHICH TO BUY “My favourite is a disc-braked, ‘narrowmouth’ TR3 [up to mid-1957]; I prefer the design, and the discs give more stopping power in modern traffic,” Simon advises.

“There’s enough room to retro-fit a TR4 synchro ’box, and it would look suitably period. The styling is really subjective; some people prefer the big grille of the TR3A – and it was the best seller, too.”

He continues: “Ultimately, you buy on condition, and it depends what’s available for your budget – if a really nice TR2 came up it wouldn’t be that hard for a first-time buyer to upgrade the brakes and ’box. It’s easier to modify a car with a good chassis and body than to sort out the panels on a mechanically sound but scruffy one. Spend £2k on the brakes, not £40k on the body.”

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1954: ‘Small-mouth, long-door’ cars altered after customers complain about catching doors on kerbs; subsequent TR2 models have shorter doors fitted and are known informally as ‘smallmouth, short-door’ cars 1955: TR3 ‘narrow-mouth’ cars arrive.

Power upped from 90bhp to 100bhp thanks to large SU carburettors and a redesigned cylinder head 1956: Girling front disc brakes introduced in production-car world first (TR3) 1957: TR3 Vignale Speciale rebodied

by Giovanni Michelotti, winning him immediate commissions for TR4 and Herald. End of narrow-mouth production; unofficially named and restyled TR3A goes on sale 1959: Minor body-styling tweaks to TR3A, including redesigned and larger boot section 1962: Slow US dealer uptake of Michelotti-styled TR4 prompts creation of retrospectively titled TR3B, using TR4’s 2.1-litre powerplant

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre inline-four Power: 100bhp Top speed: 105mph 0-60mph: 12 seconds Economy: 26mpg INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £8000 Good: £10,000 Excellent: £20,000 (TR3)

TR2 - 6 Specialists Est. 1985

Standard TR2-3s are anything but suitable for use in modern traffic but do benefit from the many modifiations available. Over the past 37 years we have developed a vast range of components that will transform the humble TR into something worth shouting about.

ENGINE UPGRADES

BRAKE UPGRADES

SUSPENSION UPGRADES

GEARBOX UPGRADES

Standard TR engines are more or less bullet proof but offer only restrained performance. Our range of unique products cater for all requirements, all proven and developed over 30+ years.

Fast road, rally and race billet steel crankshafts, forged steel con rods, camshafts, head gaskets, oil pumps & alloy sumps are just some of the components we offer.

Modern motoring demands a highly efficient and effective braking system.

The original components without modification do not provide this. 4-pot caliper & vented disc kit, brake bias kits, residual pressure valves, alloy brake drums & uprated pads are some of the products we offer to overcome this problem.

Early TRs incorporated suspension designed for use with cross-ply tyres, resulting in a heavily compromised set-up for modern driving conditions.

Adjustable camber wishbones, uprated bushes, anti-roll bars, road springs, adjustable dampers & alloy hubs are a few of the parts we offer to give you the confidence to drive your TR as they were meant to be driven.

The standard TR gearbox is not suitable for spirited driving and requires upgrades. Over the years we have produced a tried & tested range of products that overcome this problem.

Hydraulic release bearing kit, overdrive engagement modules, hardened layshafts, complete gearbox rebuilds & race gear sets are all available through our website.

www.racetorations.co.uk

+44 (0) 1427 616565

BUYING GUIDE

1961–1976

Triumph TR4, TR5 and TR6

‘They are rugged and reliable cars.

They are a much more exclusive alternative to an MGB’

For many driving enthusiasts, these Triumphs represent the essence of sports car motoring – and they continue to provide raw thrills today

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addressed the bounciness of the original leaf-sprung live-axle rear suspension by replacing it with a much more sporting semi-trailing arm and coil-spring system.

However, many American TR4As retained the live-axle suspension.

With 71,000 cars built during its sixyear production span, the TR4 was a phenomenal success, especially in the US market. In 1967, the TR4A was replaced by the TR5; although this was similar looking, Triumph had made a host of improvements under the skin.

The Standard four-cylinder was replaced by a 2.5-litre fuel-injected inline-six. This produced 150bhp with the European-spec mechanical fuel injection, according to

MAGIC CAR PICS

IGHT IN WEIGHT, REARwheel drive and handsomely styled, the Triumph TR series could be used to illustrate the dictionary definition of ‘British sports car’. When the TR4 appeared in 1961 it took this well proven blueprint and clothed it in a more practical and purposeful body than those of any predecessor.

The TR4’s mechanical underpinnings didn’t differ too much from the TR3’s, but the torquey, tractor-derived engine from Standard was bored out to 2138cc from the TR3’s 1991cc, yielding a respectable 103bhp. The biggest further change came in 1965, with a revised rear suspension set-up. Known as the TR4A, the newcomer

Trim is simple and all parts are available from suppliers. These TRs are popular in motor sport.

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Triumph, although in reality it was closer to 125bhp. The US-market TR5 was known as the TR250, and its use of twin Zenith-Stromberg carburettors for fueleconomy reasons meant it was significantly slower; it produced a mere 104bhp.

TR5 production lasted for just over a year before its replacement, the TR6, appeared in 1969. As with previous cars, the TR6 shared much of its mechanical underpinnings with the TR5.

The TR6 was a marked change in styling direction, with new Karmann bodywork that was more angular and masculine.

Triumph also upgraded the independent suspension from the TR5, so further tweaking the handling. Such tinkering worked well for the brand, because the

TR6 ended up being the best-selling TRseries car it ever produced. It was fantastic to drive – particularly the earlier, more powerful models, because later versions had their power stymied to 125bhp to comply with new emissions regulations.

Production ceased in 1976.

“They are rugged and reliable cars,” reckons Gary Bates from TRGB Ltd (www.trgb.co.uk). “They are a much more exclusive alternative to an MGB.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The TR4’s four-cylinder often leaks oil from both the engine and gearbox. Headgasket problems are also common, so check for any milky oil residue underneath the filler cap. Worn-out powerplants will

have poor compression readings: “If possible, get a cylinder-leakage test prior to making a purchase,” says Gary.

The TR5 and TR6’s six-cylinder engine is robust, but still look for proof of regular servicing and maintenance over mileage readings. Crankshaft thrust washers are a known weak spot, and it’s worth having a TR specialist inspect a potential purchase to avert angst further down the line.

“Early, non-recessed-block engines are prone to oil weeps on the left-hand-side head to block,” Gary says. “It’s not a great concern – it’s just how they are.”

The Lucas Mk2 injection system may be mechanical, and thus a simple unit, but expert knowledge is needed to set it up properly. Original pumps are known

to overheat; modern replacement units are much more reliable.

TRs were notorious for overheating, but by now most cars have had an aftermarket electric radiator fan fitted in order to solve this. Nevertheless, make sure the cooling system on a potential purchase is in good order.

Gearboxes are strong, but they are at their limit in the six-cylinder TR6, having been developed from the TR4. A worn ’box is quickly diagnosed by sloppy shifts or crunching synchros. Overdrive on early cars could cause problems, and driveshaft issues can announce themselves with clunking sounds from the back.

Finally, listen out for a howling noise from the rear differential – this indicates

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wear and that it will need refurbishing.

“A loud clonk from the back of the TR5 and TR6 could be broken diff pins,” says Gary. “Fixing this means removing the diff, and it’s a difficult repair.”

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES All TRs have conventional suspension set-ups, so other than wear there isn’t too much to worry about: “On the leaf-sprung cars (TR4s), the suspension from the factory is quite firm, so unless you intend to do hillclimbs or rallies I wouldn’t fit uprated springs and dampers,” advises Gary. “On the IRS cars (the TR4A, TR5 and TR6), there’s a huge selection of springs available to cater to all tastes with regards to ride height and stiffness.”

The front trunnions in all models must be checked with a bar – broken ones will swivel freely and will need to be replaced.

Regular trunnion lubrication prevents additional wear to the components. Jack up the car from underneath to ensure the trunnions swivel properly.

For wire-wheeled cars, check the spokes are in good condition and that none is missing. All TRs have drum brakes at the rear and discs at the front, so inspect for seepage from the rear drums; handbrakes will need occasional adjustment. Wheel bearings are a known problem area, so listen for any chattering sounds during cornering. “The TR4 and TR4A don’t have a brake servo, but you can retrofit one and it’s worth considering,” Gary says.

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BODYWORK AND INTERIOR All TRs were constructed in a separate body-on-chassis fashion, and rust can occur almost anywhere. Although rot is usually quite obvious, it’s best to avoid complacency and get the car in the air.

Remove the front carpets to check for corrosion, and inspect the windscreen and headlight surrounds, sills, bootlid, chassismounting points and diff mounts. Drainhole blockages can cause the wings and door bottoms to rot from the inside out.

“Panel fit on TRs is never stunning unless it’s a concours car,” says Gary.

Nevertheless, take a closer look at the paint finish to see whether any repairs have been done badly. Freshly painted cars could be hiding filler or rot – take a scrupulous look at the paperwork file.

“When the chassis on IRS cars gets old and weak, if the gap between the top of the door at the rear and the wing panel is

‘Condition should be a priority, with particular reference to chassis and body integrity, and evidence of regular maintenance’

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

wider at the top than at the bottom, it means the chassis is dropping,” says Gary.

“Most classics droop in the middle – TRs are different due to the suspension layout.”

A worn cabin isn’t too much of a worry, because it’s simple and easy to remedy – all parts are available new from aftermarket suppliers. The electrical system shouldn’t be too much of a concern, either – brittle wiring, broken switchgear and faulty gauges can easily be sorted out.

WHICH TO BUY The TR4A’s independent rear suspension makes it slightly more composed to drive than earlier TRs. However, car condition should be more of a priority, with particular reference to chassis and body integrity, as well as evidence of regular maintenance. This applies to all models.

“TR5s are the rarest and thus the most sought after,” says Gary. “It also has the TR4 body with the straight-six muscle.”

The TR6’s mechanical similarity to the TR5, along with more cars to choose from, make it a bit of a bargain. Earlier, more powerful TR6s are more desirable, but as the performance differential between these and the later models is slight, finding a cherished example is more important.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £6200 Good: £13,000 Excellent: £22,800 (1970 TR6)

BUYING GUIDE

MODEL HISTORY 1961: TR4 replaces outgoing TR3A. New features include synchromesh gearbox, rack-and-pinion steering, plus wider front and rear tracks. TR3A engine bored out to 2198cc and ‘Surrey Top’ targa roof made available 1965: TR4A arrives with independent rear suspension with semi-trailing arm and coil-spring set-up. US gets leaf-sprung, live-axle set-up only 1967: TR5 introduced with fuel-injected straight-six. US cars have twin carbs and are badged TR250 1968: Final TR5 produced 1969: TR6 effectively rebodied TR5, released with 150bhp fuel-injected 2.5-litre straight-six; US cars have 104bhp twin-carburettor engine 1973: US engine increased to 106bhp; all other markets are detuned to 125bhp for emissions. Wire wheels phased out and new front spoiler fitted 1974: US cars get plastic ‘5mph’ bumpers 1975: Last mechanical fuel-injected car built 1976: Final TR6 with carburettor produced

SPECIFICATIONS 2.1-litre inline-four (TR4) Power: 104-150bhp Top speed: 102mph 0-60mph: 10.9 seconds Economy: 23mpg (est.)

2.5-litre inline-six (TR5) Power: 150bhp Top speed: 120mph 0-60mph: 8.8 seconds Economy: 20mpg (est.)

From opposite, the progression of the TR4, TR4A, TR5 and TR6 is clear as Triumph’s archetypal model continued the marque’s sports car legacy and still provides driving thrills even today.

2.5-litre inline-six injected (TR6) Power: 150bhp Top speed: 119mph 0-60mph: 8.2 seconds Economy: 24mpg (est.)

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BUYING GUIDE

1962–1980

Triumph Spitfire and GT6 These simple but effective sports cars took the fight back to MG, bringing Michelotti styling to the masses

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great deal. However, as the firm’s financial problems mounted, the Bomb was defused and parked up at the Canley works.

With MG’s Midget waiting in the wings, and Triumph now under the control of truck and bus firm Leyland Motors, a top exec was shown Bomb. Suitably impressed, he ordered the car to be reinstated.

It didn’t take long for the resulting Spitfire 4 to arrive, in 1962, because most of the engineering work had already been done during Project Bomb. The car was renamed in observance of the Supermarine World War Two fighter plane.

The Spitfire was updated for 1965 in the form of the Mk2; power went up again and the new car received a more luxurious interior. Meanwhile, engineers were hard

MAGIC CAR PICS

TANDARD-TRIUMPH COULD only watch as the British Motor Corporation unveiled the AustinHealey Sprite in 1958; while its TR sports cars were winning friends worldwide, the marque had nothing to offer at the bottom of the market. It was fraught with getting its separate-chassised replacement for the Standard 8 to market after its body supplier, Ludlow and Fisher, had been acquired by BMC – and there was simply nothing left in the kitty to produce an affordable sports car.

Not that it didn’t try; two years later, with designer Giovanni Michelotti in tow, Project Bomb was born. Using a shortened Herald chassis and four-cylinder running gear with a new body fitted, it promised a

Replacement cabin parts for the Mk1 and Mk2 Spitfire aren’t as cheap as those for later cars.

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at work with Michelotti again, creating what would become the fastback sixcylinder GT6 Mk1, for 1966. Despite its obvious similarities to the Spitfire, the associated name was dropped in order to emphasise the extra performance; with 95bhp on tap, the new car went toe-to-toe with the MGB GT, released a year earlier.

Safety regulations began to creep in by 1967 – and the Spitfire Mk3 was a direct result. A raised ride height and new bumpers kept it compliant, and the GT6 wasn’t left alone, either. Between 1968 and 1969 the first major revisions arrived in the form of the Mk2, altering the rear suspension with a lower wishbone and Rotoflex driveshaft couplings to make it less prone to lethal camber changes. Its

‘The car was renamed in observance of the Supermarine World War Two fighter plane’

body was strengthened as well, while the interior was updated to make the car appear similar to the Spitfire Mk3.

Alas, the GT6 wouldn’t live long into the new decade. The Spitfire Mk4 was restyled in 1970 to resemble the Stag at the rear, with the newly clothed GT6 Mk3 also following suit. The former car finally received synchromesh on first gear, and its rear suspension was tamed.

By 1973, however, the GT6 was put out to pasture; its sales were not what Triumph envisioned, and what little funds remained went into the final iteration of the Spitfire – the 1500 of 1974. With a standardised 1500cc engine, shared with the Midget, it lived until 1980, when regulations finally rendered it unviable.

Stylish, affordable and exciting, the Spitfire and GT6 brought the highperformance sports car to the masses.

That the GT6 was cut down in its prime by politics has not been forgotten by the market, which is now beginning to prize the ‘poor man’s E-type’ more than ever before.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Engines in Spitfires are generally tough – but they will need refreshing around the 70,000-mile mark, when piston rings and bottom ends either fail or get noisy.

Secondhand units are readily available and carburettor support is excellent, with ignition and sundry components both accessible and cheap to buy.

Four and six-pot engines alike suffer

from bore wear, crank-end float (from worn thrust washers) and oil leaks, although rebuild kits can be bought.

Spitfire 1500 powerplants had weaker crankshafts than earlier models.

Spitfire gearboxes, however, will run for years in a weakened state. “They’re not difficult to rebuild, but parts are getting harder to come by,” says TRGB (www. trgb.co.uk) workshop manager Stephen Brocklebank. “Yet they are still plentiful and cheap enough for a secondhand transmission to be sourced.”

The overdrive ’boxes are the hardest to find and repair. GT6 units and diffs always struggled with the extra grunt from the six-pot; reckon to pay a specialist at least £2000 owing to the labour involved.

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SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Nothing fails prematurely, but suspension bushes (particularly anti-roll-bar links and front-wishbone parts on GT6s) will deteriorate on cars that have not seen much maintenance. As ever, the front end is eminently accessible; it’s at the rear where you’ll run into trouble, particularly with the Rotoflex-equipped GT6 Mk2s.

“They’re difficult to work on,” says Stephen, “but the roadholding is better.

You can fit modern driveshafts and, on a more costly GT6, ideally you’d want to see that had been done.” On non-Rotoflex cars, particularly Mk1s, driveshaft CVs can fail; their clicking is a dead give-away.

Brakes provide little trouble – everything’s available cheaply – but keep an eye on the hoses and lines, both flexible and solid.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Relatively low values and a separate-chassis construction have seen many a Spitfire suffer at the hands of home bodgers:

‘Rarity plays a part – and determines prices. The earlier the car, the prettier and more valuable it tends to be’ 202

“There’s a lot of rubbish on the market; many restorations have been done by people who are not that skilled,” says Stephen. “Owing to the GT6’s rising values, they’ve been restored to a better standard than Spitfires over the past ten years.”

Ideally, the body needs to come off the chassis for a complete restoration to have taken place. Check the front outriggers for rot; thanks to oil thrown from the engine and gearbox, the chassis middle tends not to fare too badly. The flip-up bonnet allows the front of the bulkhead to easily be inspected.

“It really matters if the body hasn’t been off the chassis,” says Stephen. “It’s the bodywork that you can’t see, aft of the bulkhead, that can corrode really badly.”

The rear heel board – where the back suspension mounts – is prone to rust on both cars, as are the inner sills and the opposite side of the bulkhead from what can be seen under the bonnet: “The screen frame and A-pillars on a GT6 are quite prone to rotting, too – its body is more complicated,” says Stephen.

Everything can be bought to revive a cabin – including the Spitfire hoods – but the GT6’s windscreen has to come out to replace the headlining. You might find that the A-pillars have also rotted, which you won’t see until the glass has been removed.

Most Spitfire interior parts from the Mk4 and 1500 are cheap (the Mk1 and Mk2 are not), and GT6-specific switches are either hard to find or expensive, as are the centre console and armrests.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

WHICH TO BUY It comes down to looks and budget; the cars Stephen rates as the best overall compromise are the Spitfire Mk3 and Mk4 and the revised GT6 Mk2 and Mk3.

All benefit from less ‘snap-happy’ handling owing to revised rear suspension; a firsttime buyer, unused to the antics of swingaxled cars, might do well to give these cars a try first before examining a Spitfire 4, Spitfire Mk2 or GT6 Mk1.

Rarity plays a part – but it also determines prices. The earlier the car, the prettier and more valuable it tends to be. It was the Spitfire Mk4 and GT6 Mk3 that had the heaviest styling tweaks; the 1300 Spitfire, to Stephen’s mind, represents the best engine in terms of performance.

“The later 1500 cars are the cheapest, but they’re the most likely to have been badly repaired, and the engines are weaker,” he concludes. “The late Mk2 and early Mk3 GT6s with Rotoflex are the bestdriving examples, but for value for money – and you want the best you can afford (and for your money to go the furthest) – the GT6 Mk3 is a good buy. Prices for each condition of Mk3 tend to be £5k cheaper than for the equivalent Mk2, they’re better looking and fewer were built.”

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £8000 Good: £12,000 Excellent: £17,000 (GT6 Mk3)

MODEL HISTORY 1960: Project Bomb begins at Michelotti’s studio with aim of unseating AustinHealey Sprite. Shortened Herald chassis, with repositioned outriggers, has two-seat convertible body fitted 1961: Standard-Triumph’s dire financial state sees Project Bomb cancelled; however, programme revived following interest from Leyland Motors, StandardTriumph’s new owner

The Mk4 Spitfire (above left) was restyled in line with the Stag, while the GT6 Mk1 relied on a 2.0litre six to deliver its firepower.

SPECIFICATIONS 1493cc inline-four (Spitfire 1500) Power: 71bhp Top speed: 101mph 0-60mph: 13.2 seconds Economy: 29mpg 2.0-litre straight-six (GT6 Mk3) Power: 105bhp Top speed: 112mph 0-60mph: 10.1 seconds Economy: 25mpg

1962: Spitfire 4 released; development time and costs kept low owing to much hardware being carried over from Herald 1963: Michelotti commissioned to design Spitfire coupé; standard Spitfire 4 sent to Italy but extra weight of body blunts performance. Coupé/GT4 shelved 1964: Stillborn GT4’s roof copied in glassfibre and fitted to Spitfires in Triumph’s racing programme; they beat nearest MG rivals at Le Mans, and new programme to revive Spitfire GT4 begins 1965: Spitfire Mk2 arrives; Spitfire 4 now retrospectively dubbed Mk1. Power raised to 67bhp; interiors updated

with safety regulations. Soft-top revised and dashboards now trimmed in wood; power up to 75bhp 1968: GT6 Mk2 confirmed. Revised suspension responds to press criticism of ‘break-away’ handling; rear wishbone fitted with Rotoflex driveshaft couplings.

Power now 105bhp 1969: GT6 Mk2’s body strengthened and minor facelift performed to make car more closely resemble Spitfire Mk3 1970: Spitfire Mk4 goes on sale with revised, US emissions-compliant engine and redesigned body with clipped tail to resemble Stag. Instruments moved from middle of car to in front of driver; synchromesh now fitted on first gear; swing-axle suspension finally revised.

GT6 Mk3 debuts with similarly refreshed Michelotti styling to Spitfire Mk4. New bonnet and windscreen frame fitted 1973: GT6 Mk3 discontinued

1966: GT6 Mk1 revealed – direct result of revived GT4 programme. Triumph’s 2.0 straight-six fitted to boost performance, and Michelotti restyles new car

1974: Time for Spitfire 1500, using now-standardised 1500cc shared with MG Midget. Body revised; rear end has longer swing axles and lower ride height for UK and Europe. Interior further revised; US cars tuned to run on unleaded and now wear massive impact bumpers

1967: Spitfire Mk3 launched – with raised ride height and new bumpers to comply

1980: Spitfire 1500 production ends, having outlasted MG Midget by one year

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BUYING GUIDE

1970–1977

Triumph Stag This home-grown V8 hero carved out a market niche for itself despite humble – nay accidental – beginnings

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HEN CAR DESIGNER Giovanni Michelotti – who at that time was well in with Triumph – requested a 2000 model to turn into a show car for the 1965 season, no one could have predicted where it would lead.

The Italian stylist wanted nothing but to build a concept, showcase the skills of his team, and move on to the next project.

Commissions from Canley had been going well; the Herald family and 2000 range had proved popular. An example of the latter was duly sent with a specific condition: if Triumph management liked the car that resulted, it’d return to Britain for further development, and its show career with Michelotti would be forfeit.

The rest, as they say, is history, and Michelotti never saw his car on a stand – not least until the Stag’s launch, five years later. Market niches were exploited

in its creation; the older enthusiast, now used to sports saloons but who yearned for another TR despite a family in tow, was regarded as an ideal candidate.

Furthermore, a car with broad GT intentions had transatlantic appeal.

With an eye on exports – especially to the US – it was decided that the Stag needed a V8 to differentiate itself from the smaller, cheaper TR range.

Despite Triumph’s incorporation into BLMC (latterly British Leyland), the Stag’s engine had been signed off before the bean-counters could kill it. Corporate politics and the obvious shortage of Rover V8s, which Triumph’s engineers had been dreading, sealed the deal.

Despite its obvious appeal nowadays – a combination of Italian styling backed by a sonorous V8 soundtrack – the Stag arrived at the wrong time. BL’s finances were critical by 1971, and despite a cameo

in that year’s Diamonds Are Forever Bond outing, the model was not regarded as a car that was crucial to Triumph’s long-term survival as the fuel crisis loomed. Few things changed during its 25,877-unit run other than iterative improvements to the mechanicals after 1972. The following year, the Mk2 models, with tweaked bodywork, ran the series out until the end in 1977.

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ENGINE AND GEARBOX

The cabin is reasonably robust, with used parts readily available, but do check hood operation.

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The 3.0-litre V8 quickly became infamous in service – but poor assembly and badly briefed service bays did just as much damage to its reputation. Listen for vocal timing chains; these are key to whether or not a Stag V8 has been well preserved.

‘Market niches were exploited in its creation; the older enthusiast was regarded as an ideal candidate’

MickWard, co-founder of Leicestershirebased Stag specialist EJ Ward (www. ejward.co.uk) says: “The timing chains aren’t as bad as people make them out to be. On a car that’s been looked after, they have a lifespan of 40,000-50,000 miles.

“On engines we’ve pulled apart that are in trouble, we’ve found that some have been set far too tightly so that the hydraulic tensioners can’t work properly.

They need to be allowed to work with oil pressure from the engine, so you get an oil spray that lubricates the chain.”

It also helps if the car has had onceyearly oil-and-filter changes, equivalent to 4000-mile intervals. If an engine’s chains are dying, the whole arrangement will ‘tinkle’ three or four seconds after start-up

as the oil pressure builds up, and then disappear as said pressure climbs.

Timing is of an ‘interference’ type; if the chains jump or snap, the pistons will hit the valves. Really worn-out chains will chatter all the time. A crucial 65:35 waterto-blue-antifreeze ratio will keep the cooling system behaving – provided its components are in decent condition.

Manual gearboxes rarely give trouble, with a long throw through the gate to be expected. Tired units will still operate, but they will whine through the first three speeds or rattle with the engine idling and with your foot off the clutch.

“The autos are pretty bulletproof,” says Mick. “They’re robust, but with the BorgWarner 35 [1970-1977] and 65 [1977-end

of production] you don’t have the overdrive facility that the manual offers, so you’re pulling quite a few revs on the engine.”

A conversion is available using a ZF gearbox from the Jaguar XJ40, which incorporates fourth as an overdrive top.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Shock absorbers, particularly the rear units, can corrode after prolonged use. Up front, damper inserts work hard: “They’re carrying the weight of the engine, so they might need looking at because they can go soft,” says Mick. Triumph recommended changing these parts every three years or 15,000 miles; modern equivalents can last a fair bit longer, however.

Poor-quality rubber-bush replacements,

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‘Manuals are a more entertaining drive. With the overdrive you have effectively got two speeds; it makes the Stag long legged’ MODEL HISTORY

particularly at the front of the car, can affect how it steers and stops; EJ Ward prefers to use up-to-date polyurethane items of a similar specification to the original rubber components. Bushes for the rear subframe, trailing arm and differential mounting can also age and deteriorate; the car will feel nervous and twitchy on a test drive if anything is amiss.

Brakes aren’t particularly troublesome, either – flexible hoses (and rear brake cylinders) can fail if a car has sat around.

depends how diligent previous owners were – and whether they zipped out the rear window. Ask them how often the hood hinges and locks have been lubricated and how they lower the hood.

Frames and locking mechanisms can be fully reconditioned if they’re neglected.

The interior is reasonably robust. Seat foam and covers can fall to pieces, but most trim pieces and switchgear are readily available secondhand. Leather retrims from standard vinyl are common.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR

WHICH TO BUY

“You have to buy the best Stag you can afford based on body condition,” says Mick. Replacement panels – such as complete rear wings – haven’t always been (and often still aren’t) fully available.

On a ramp, inspect the chassis rails around the engine and the pairs of outriggers (body supports) fore and aft; they help stiffen the floor. Look at the condition of the floor panels themselves, too, front and rear, as these can also rot, particularly where they join the inner sills.

Other corrosion is outwardly visible, at the bottoms of door skins and in all four wings around the wheelarches. Shells were factory dipped in underseal, but how thoroughly they were coated varies massively with age; the ones painted properly resist the elements well. The Stag Owners Club keeps a panel-tooling fund to supply parts such as inner wings.

Hoods (and hardtops) can be fragile. It

From the thousands of Stags Mick has restored over the years, he is quite specific about what he would buy and/or recommend: a mid-to-late Mk1 (19721973) with a manual overdrive.

He says: “There was still a degree of enthusiasm putting the car together in the early years, but as production went on, after people went through strikes, quality control suffered, especially with bodywork and paint. We’ve also found that Mk2 cars tended to sit around for a long time before being registered; things could deteriorate.”

He continues: “Manual cars are a more entertaining drive. With the overdrive you’ve effectively got two speeds (third and fourth) in the ’box. Overdrive fourth is equivalent to fifth in a more modern unit; it makes the Stag quite long legged and – if the engine is built, and built right – it makes the car capable of some quite serious long-distance cruising.”

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1970: Stag launches as Mk1 - one year late, owing to Triumph’s incorporation into BLMC. Body-coloured sills and Rostyle wheels fitted 1972: Cooling system and airbox upgraded; manual gearbox strengthened 1973: UK Mk2 arrives, now with tinted glass, headrests and alloy wheels as options; US-market cars withdrawn from sale in August. Manual models get J-type Laycock overdrive instead of Mk1’s A-type.

Hood revised, sill panels painted black, badge backgrounds changed from grey to black. Engine top end slightly uprated 1974: Another soft-top hood revision; seatbelt and hazard-warning lights now fitted. Alloy wheels, tinted glass and headrests now standard on UK cars 1976: Aluminium sill trims now fitted, tyre width reduced 1977: Optional automatic changed from Borg-Warner 35 to Borg-Warner 65. Model production winds down

SPECIFICATIONS 3.0-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

147bhp 118/112mph 9.3/10.4 seconds 20-25mpg (est.)

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £5500 Good: £10,000 Excellent: £23,000

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BUYING GUIDE

1975–1981

Triumph TR7 and TR8 This engaging sports car used to be the butt of many jokes, but its growing charm provides serious good fun

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of owners and enthusiasts have taken it to their heart and addressed many of the issues that plagued it back in the day.

“They’re still relatively cheap to buy,” explains Ben Smith of RobSport (www. robsport.co.uk). “The TR7 drives more like a modern car – you’ve got quite a bit of room in it, especially in the boot for continental touring. This model is quite versatile as well – you can convert a TR7 to a V8, and you can get a lot of bits to make them very usable.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX TR7s all came with a 1998cc slanted four-cylinder engine donated by the Triumph Dolomite. It’s reliable and can last for 100,000 miles before a rebuild is

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HE TRIUMPH TR7 WAS A marked change for this famed sports car producer. This was immediately obvious from the model’s styling. Gone were the classic roadster proportions, to be replaced by a wedgy, almost exotic front end.

The advances weren’t just up top, either – the TR6 straight-six engine was superseded by a slanted four-cylinder powerplant. This move upset traditional Triumph owners, who liked neither the motor nor the styling. A later V8 model did little to mollify naysayers.

While the TR7 has been much maligned for many years, over the past decade it has become recognised as a fun, engaging little car. Accordingly, a passionate group

Most bits for the simple, hard-wearing cabin are still available. TR8 (above right) is sought after.

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necessary, if maintained property. Once past this milestone, however, the oil must be changed every 3000 miles.

The engine block is cast iron and the cylinder head is aluminium, meaning antifreeze levels should be maintained and checked regularly. If this isn’t adhered to, galvanic corrosion is likely to occur, ultimately causing overheating and failed head gaskets. Milky white residue in the oil is the tell-tale sign.

Leaks around the water pump and radiators can also lead to overheating.

Conventional thinking suggests 40,000 miles between timing-chain changes, but Ben warns against this. “The timing chain needs to be replaced every 20k-30k miles, because infrequent use means the guides

‘This car is quite versatile – you can convert a TR7 to a V8, and can get a lot of bits to make them very usable’

go hard on the chain,” he explains.

Interrogate the service history diligently to make sure this has been done.

The TR8 was fitted with Rover’s Buickderived V8 powerplant, in 3.5-litre form.

This model was primarily sold in the US, but many European TR7s have had the V8 installed later on. If so, make sure the engine swap was carried out by a reputable specialist.

The Rover V8 is generally a trusted, reliable unit, but regular oil changes are a must, and maintenance schedules must be followed to the letter. “The only issues we usually come across concern worn camshafts,” says Ben. “Otherwise these engines are pretty bulletproof.”

A four-speed manual gearbox was

fitted to most early TR7s, yet a handful had a three-speed automatic. Post-1978 cars came with a much more robust fiveratio manual, although it was optional prior to this. The five-speeder is better suited to motorway cruising; it was also fitted to the TR8 as standard.

Both transmissions have problems with second- and third-gear synchromesh, so check for baulking when changing into these ratios. “This is often down to having the wrong oil,” explains Ben. If the ’box pops out of gear when the car is on the move, it very likely needs a rebuild.

Ben continues: “While the four-speed manual transmission can be a bit noisy, in this case it’s likely that the unit has never had an oil change in its life.”

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES While the suspension has no inherent faults, springs, dampers and bushings will be well past their sell-by date by now if original. “Replacement stuff is available off the shelf, and modified items can be bought, too,” explains Ben. “Upgraded polyurethane bushes are a good idea.”

Power-assisted steering wasn’t offered when the cars were new, but conversion kits are available, however. Meanwhile, the TR7 and TR8’s brakes have always come in for criticism, but upgrade kits are sold via the aftermarket.

“On standard 2.0-litre cars the brakes are okay, but they must be upgraded if you put a V8 in a TR7,” says Ben. “RobSport sells a four-pot-caliper Wilwood brake

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The TR8 used Rover’s V8 powerplant in 3.5-litre form. The motors are bulletproof just as long as maintenance schedules are followed to the letter.

kit with vented and grooved discs.”

Fitting 14-inch wheels, and thus larger front brake discs, does much to improve braking performance. If you’re planning to take your TR7 on track, a rear discbrake conversion is possible, but it requires replacing the back axle.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Rust is a well known concern for any British Leyland car, and the TR7 is no different. “It’s typical BL; anything metal rots,” laughs Ben. “It really depends on how they’ve been looked after.”

First, check under the cover at the base of the windscreen; this hides rust that will eventually lead to moisture making its way down to the footwells. Next, open the bonnet and inspect the suspension-strut mountings; rot often accumulates here.

Repairing corrosion on the suspensionstrut mountings is a labour-intensive job.

Check the bonnet for rust, particularly beneath the bulge on post-1979 cars. The sills are the next place to look; corrosion is very common here, and if it takes hold the structural integrity of the entire vehicle can be called into question. Finally, inspect the arches, front subframe and mounting points for the rear trailing arms.

The pop-up headlight casings are made from composite aluminium and are known to corrode. Check they go up and down in unison; electrical issues are usually to blame if not. “The oxidisation 210

‘You’ll find a good and bad car from each year – it depends on what you’re buying and how well it’s been looked after’ gets right into them, and never truly goes away,” says Ben. “It’s often best to replace them completely if you can.”

Poorly fitting body panels were common even when the car was new, particularly the doors, which were always slightly too big. Allow for a reasonable level of discrepancy thanks to British Leyland build quality.

The interior is simple and hard wearing.

Ben says: “Most bits are still available, but some items such as the chequered upholstery cloth are becoming hard to find.” The plastic dashboard is prone to UV damage and cracking.

Ensure the soft-top seals securely on Convertible models, and that the roof fits properly and isn’t saggy. A bad earth near the taillight clusters, inner front wings or on the A-pillars behind the dashboard is usually the root cause of most electrical

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

problems. The wiring can become brittle with age, and fusebox connections can deteriorate. Despite all this, electrical issues are easy to solve.

WHICH TO BUY Although values have grown over the past decade, the TR7 was a bargain-basement classic for decades. As such there are many abused examples out there, which have been run on a shoestring. Because outwardly clean-looking cars can hide deep corrosion under the skin, you should always put a potential purchase on a lift to inspect the underneath. Other than that, excellent TR7/8 parts supply means ownership is fairly straightforward.

The TR8 is the model to have, but it’s rare in the UK. V8-converted TR7s are well worth investigating, as long as it has been done properly by a specialist.

Convertibles are best for weekend use, but a Coupé is the way to go for track fun.

As for which model or year is best, Ben says condition matters more: “You’ll find a good and bad car from each year – it depends on what you’re buying and how well it’s been looked after. Irrespective of the year, they’re pretty great.”

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £2000 Good: £4300 Excellent: £6600

BUYING GUIDE

Coupé, drop-top, four-cylinder or V8, this quirky British sports car offers something for everyone and has come into its own in recent years despite traditional BL-bred maladies.

MODEL HISTORY 1975: TR7 debuts in US, with twin Stromberg carburettors 1976: TR7 launched in UK, with twin Solex carbs and four-speed gearbox as standard. Five-speed manual or threespeed automatic available as options 1977: Around 60 examples of TR7 Sprint prototypes manufactured 1978: Five-speed gearbox standard, TR7 V8 homologated for motor sport 1979: TR7 Convertible available in US, alongside V8-powered TR8 Coupé and Convertible 1980: TR7 Convertible launched in UK 1981: US cars get Bosch L-Jetronic injection. TR7 and TR8 production ends

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre inline-four Power: 105bhp Top speed: 109mph 0-60mph: 9.1 seconds Economy: 24mpg (est.)

3.5-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

155bhp 135mph 7.7 seconds 20mpg

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BUYING GUIDE

1992–2003

TVR Chimaera Softer and easier to drive than its Griffith stablemate, the Chimaera is considered the easiest TVR of the lot to live with. That makes it a popular modern classic

W

HILE NO TVR CAR could ever be termed ‘soft’, 1992’s Chimaera was intended to be more of a GT than the bigger, brawnier Griffith.

It was based on what was essentially the same steel chassis, but with a longer body, larger luggage area and softer suspension, while power came courtesy of the venerable Rover V8 engine – albeit with some TVR-specific tuning.

The Chimaera was a great-looking and distinctive sports car, featuring a sleek, low profile and a distinctive front bumper with unusual scallops around the indicator lamps. They were there because TVR boss Peter Wheeler’s dog, Ned, bit a chunk out of the polystyrene styling model when the car was being designed.

TVR’s engineers liked it, so it stayed.

Costs were kept down with the use of the usual array of TVR parts-bin

components, sourced from mainstream manufacturers. The rear lights were from a Ford Fiesta Mk3, the front lights were generic Lucas parts also found on Minis and Land Rover Defenders, and the transmission was the LT77 unit from the Rover SD1 or Land Rover 90/110. Engine capacities ranged from 4.0 to 5.0 litres, all based on the Rover V8. As you would expect, each of the units delivered scintillating power and acceleration.

In 1994, the Chimaera switched to a lighter and more positive-shifting (and subsequently less problematic) BorgWarner T5 gearbox, while in 1996 it got a minor facelift, the front end becoming more like that of the Cerbera. The mesh grille disappeared and the rear lights were replaced by those of a TVR design.

Today, the Chimaera is both the most prolific TVR and the most accessible way into ownership, with a strong following.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Mechanically, the Chimaera is fairly straightforward for such a specialist, hand-built machine. The engine is the classic Rover V8, which enjoys great parts support and is generally very reliable, providing it is properly maintained.

According to TVR specialist James Agger (www.jamesagger.com), the best models are the post-1994 ones. These are known among the TVR community as those with the Serpentine engine, named after its drive-belt layout. Later models are considered an even better buy.

“Anything post-1997 with both the Serpentine engine and power steering is as good as it gets,” says James. “We can sell cars equipped that way very easily.”

The Chimaera is available with four different engine capacities: 4.0, 4.3, 4.5, and 5.0 litres. All are derivatives of the same V8. “The post-Serpentine 4.0 is actually a real sweet spot,” adds James.

“Everyone wants the 4.5, but the 4.0-litre is still a strong and very quick car.”

As previously stated, up until 1994 TVR used the LT77 gearbox as found in the SD1 and Defender. This was then replaced by a Borg-Warner T5, which has a better change and is generally more reliable.

MAGIC CAR PICS

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

Electronics can cause issues, but effective fixes can be made. Replacement screens are available.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

One of the great things about the Chimaera is that a lot of the parts are sourced from other makers. The front brakes, for example, are Ford units and as such are generally inexpensive to source.

Even bespoke parts aren’t too difficult to get hold of, with items such as front wishbones and suspension bushes held in stock by the main TVR specialists.

According to James, the key is to find

‘This car is both the most prolific TVR and the most accessible way into ownership, with a strong following’

‘They’re all quick and they’re all very good fun to drive. So really it comes down to how good they are overall’ an example that has been regularly maintained and used. “The thing with a lot of these cars is that they tend to come out for a couple of months in the summer and then get put away again, and so it’s not uncommon at all for us to find one with 20-year-old tyres,” he says.

“If a car has two-decade-old tyres, then there’s a good chance the suspension bushes and fuel lines are also of a similar age, and that’s where the problems start.

Just because the car isn’t being used very much doesn’t mean it doesn’t require maintenance, so if you’re buying one, the key is to look for one that’s been used or at least inspected regularly.”

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Thanks to its glassfibre body, the TVR hides its demons well. But the chassis is mild steel and it corrodes in just the same way as it would in a metal-bodied car.

“The centre of the chassis is generally quite well protected,” says James. “But do pay special attention to the outriggers; they are rather exposed and can rust badly.”

The most comprehensive fix is to lift the body off and renew all the outriggers.

It’s worthwhile if you’re buying a car to keep long term, as a properly done, well protected job will never need doing again.

What’s far more common, however, is a ‘partial lift’, where the body is separated from the chassis just enough to access the outrigger area and weld in repair sections.

Done properly, this could be quite an 214

effective repair, but as a long-term option it’s not as good as outright replacement.

Electronics can be frail, so ensure it all works as it should inside. You can tap into the enthusiastic ownership knowledge base for advice. Early windscreens are known to de-laminate at the edges, but replacements are easily available.

WHICH TO BUY Some hardcore enthusiasts will tell you the 4.5- or 5.0-litre Chimaeras are the ones to go for, but in James’s opinion you should focus far more on the condition and quality of the car than which of the V8 power units is under the bonnet.

“They’re all quick and they’re all good fun to drive,” he says. “It comes down to how good they are overall. When looking at a car to buy or sell, I ask myself ‘would I jump in and drive it to Le Mans tomorrow?’.

If the answer is no, then it’s not a car I want. What you need is an example that’s been properly maintained and had all of the consumable parts changed. If not, you need to factor this into your purchase and expect to have to invest in preventative maintenance before using it in anger.”

The overall condition is by far the most important factor in choosing.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £10,000 Good: £15,000 Excellent: £24,000

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

MODEL HISTORY 1992: Chimaera introduced featuring 4.0- and 4.3-litre engines 1994: Gearbox changed to Borg-Warner T5 unit, and 5.0-litre and 4.0 High Compression engines introduced 1996: Facelift, with most notable changes to front grille. New 4.5 engine introduced 1997: Taillights changed to TVR design – previously from Fiesta Mk3 2001: Minor facelift revealed – covered headlights introduced 2003: Last Chimaera built, after production run of around 5200 cars

SPECIFICATIONS 4.0-litre Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

275bhp 152mph 4.7 seconds 15mpg

4.5-litre Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

285bhp 158mph 4.5 seconds 15mpg

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1991–2002

TVR Griffith Lightweight body, riotous V8 thunder and looks to make pedestrians swoon – the TVR Griffith really (Blackpool) rocks

A

LTHOUGH THE GRIFFITH offered similar scintillating pace and exotic looks to more established supercars, TVR’s Blackpool-born upstart boasted more adrenaline per pound than many of them.

When it broke cover in 1991, it marked a critical design deviation from its angular predecessors. While the nameplate had been used in the 1960s, this was a truly modern car. It had the familiar template of lightweight chassis, huge V8 and no driver aids, but the styling was a fresh start.

The cars were launched with a 240bhp 216

Rover 4.0-litre V8. A low kerbweight meant the Griffith could hit 60mph in 4.7 seconds, leaving German or Italian rivals in its wake. An even more powerful 280bhp 4.3 motor became available from 1992, while a big-valve factory conversion could be specced for another 30bhp, pushing the engine’s capacity to 4.5 litres.

Yet the best was yet to come – a year later, a 340bhp 5.0-litre version joined the range, giving supercar performance at a fraction of the price. The Griffith sold well right up until production ceased in 2002.

“It’s like a cheap Cobra,” says Jason

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

Clegg from Str8six (www.str8six.co.uk).

“They’re stunning to look at, and have a beautiful interior that’s still a special place to be. With the 5.0 engine, short wheelbase and no driver aids, it’s a hoon to drive.”

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The Rover V8 is a well known powerplant, with plenty of specialist support. Despite TVR’s bespoke modifications, finding an engine expert should be simple. While many owners say the quoted power figures are optimistic, the cars are so light even the 4.0-litre models are eye-poppingly brisk.

Gasket oil leaks could mean the rocker covers need retightening. Overheating is common, so check the radiator and thermostat are okay; left to fester, an engine rebuild might be in order. These aren’t the usual cause of warm running, however.

“Cooling fans not working is more of a issue – it’s all down to poor maintenance,” says Jason. “Radiators don’t silt up – it is usually that someone has not cleaned the fan connectors after washing the car, which then go green and stop working.”

Aftermarket modifications such as

remaps and high-lift cams (the standard units tend to wear out by 60,000 miles anyway) are common, although this isn’t a worry if a recognised specialist has carried out the work. “The camshaft on the 5.0-litre engine may need replacing at 40,000 miles,” says Jason. “It’s best to get a garage to check it out prior to purchase. High engine-bay temperatures mean that starter motors last only about 30,000 miles.”

The Rover LT77 five-speed ’box used in early 4.0-litre Griffiths was gradually phased out in favour of a Borg-Warner T5 unit. Most 5.0-litre cars have this, too; if reverse is down to the right, your car has the latter unit. Both gearboxes are strong, but regular fluid changes and unrushed shifts prolong their longevity. You can expect to see 40k-60k miles between clutch replacements. “The Borg-Warner is much better than the LT77,” says Jason.

“It’s a nicer shift, and more reliable.”

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES While the TVR’s high-speed stability challenges are well known (and, more often than not, part of the appeal…), at low speeds the car should feel planted and stable. A floppy Griffith will need fresh bushes and dampers, and do check for rot in suspension components such as the control arms and wishbones. New tyres and fresh bushes can transform the drive.

“Also check the wheel alignment,” suggests Jason. “The suspension is fully adjustable.”

The TVR’s brakes are highly effective, but later cars had slightly larger discs; look out for warping or seized calipers on lowmilers. Upgraded stoppers are a must if you fancy taking your Griffith on track.

Original models came with a GKN limited-slip diff, but this was switched to a BTR item from 1994. While both are reliable, check for leaks – repairs are expensive. “The BTR is more desirable and easier to find parts for,” Jason says.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Although the Griffith’s glassfibre body means that rust won’t affect the car’s swooping curves, corrosion can take hold virtually everywhere else.

“The outriggers, lower chassis rails and the section around the manifolds are the

first places a potential owner should look for corrosion,” Jason explains. “The entire chassis needs inspection because a lot of the corrosion takes place out of sight.”

Even though later examples had better rust protection, it’s now 20 years since the last cars left the line. Given the model’s occasional wayward nature, do check for accident damage. The glassfibre body will start to craze if cracks are left unchecked.

“You may see a join line in the paint where a new corner has been put on,” says Jason.

“That’s expensive to rectify, as it may mean doing the entire corner again.”

Retrimming the interior can be costly due to the complex curves and swathes of leather. Leaks aren’t uncommon, so check under the footwell carpets for damp. The electrics are mostly reliable, but switches can cease to function.

“The heater set-up can be complicated because it runs an electric stepper motor that tends to stop working, keeping it on hot all the time,” says Jason. “Not ideal on an already hot sports car in the summer.”

WHICH TO BUY Later cars are marginally more desirable thanks to detail modifications, slightly better chassis rust proofing and optional power steering. However, early cars with a good service history are well worth a look, too. Mileages are generally low, but high numbers here are less important than the condition of the chassis.

“Buy the best you can afford, because you will add value when you sell it,” advises Jason. “Personally I love the SE, with the more reliable Chimaera heating system. The suspension is firmer and better balanced, too.”

Preventive maintenance and regular servicing make the ownership experience far less scary than pub naysayers would have you believe. With a stunning blend of sound, seductive looks and sheer speed, the TVR Griffith still puts traditional supercars to shame, decades later.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £14,000 Good: £24,000 Excellent: £27,000 (1998 5.0)

MAGIC CAR PICS

BUYING GUIDE

With its copious curves, the complex interior looks fantastic but can be costly to retrim.

MODEL HISTORY 1990: TVR Griffith revealed at Birmingham Motor Show 1991: Griffith production starts, initially with 240bhp 4.0-litre engine, five-speed manual transmission and glassfibre bodywork 1992: Griffith 430 goes on sale. Power now up to 280bhp, or over 300bhp for 430BV (big-valve conversion) 1993: Griffith 500 introduced, now with 5.0-litre Rover V8 and 340bhp.

Rover LT77 gearbox replaced with Borg-Warner T5 transmission 1994: GKN limited-slip differential phased out in favour of BTR unit 1995: Power steering introduced 2002: 100 units of limited-edition Griffith 500SE signal end of production, with approximately 2600 cars built in total

SPECIFICATIONS 4.0-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

240bhp 152mph 4.7 seconds 24mpg (est.)

5.0-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

340bhp 169mph 4.1 seconds 20mpg (est.)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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BUYING GUIDE

1999–2005

Vauxhall VX220 When Lotus required money to get the Elise crashtest ready, GM found itself in need of a sports car.

The VX220 was the perfect solution all round

I

T’S HARDLY A NAME THAT’S synonymous with sports cars, but Vauxhall-Opel required an injection of pizzazz at the same time as Lotus desperately needed some money.

With the first-generation Elise about to be sidelined by crash-safety legislation, Lotus found itself short of funds to reengineer the car in order to stay in production. While the company had the engineering expertise to get around the problem, its reserves were empty.

General Motors turned out to be the unlikely partner, in a deal brokered by its UK arm. The agreement saw Lotus meet its engineering challenges in exchange for shared use of the new car’s architecture to

allow GM to create its own sports car.

The Vauxhall VX220, or Opel Speedster in the rest of Europe, was an Elise in all but appearance, other than its powertrain.

The Elise used a Toyota engine, but GM fitted the 2.2-litre direct-injection unit most usually found in the likes of the Vectra and Zafira.

In 2003, the VX220 was joined by the VX220 Turbo, which used the much more reliable 2.0-litre 197bhp turbocharged engine from the Astra SRi. Then, in 2004, along came the VXR220 – produced to launch the manufacturer’s new flagship performance line. A limited run of 60 of the track-focused models were produced for the UK market only. The VXR220 was

MAGIC CAR PICS, VAUXHALL

equipped with bigger Brembo brakes, semi-slick racing tyres and lowered suspension, with the power output increased to 220bhp. It also featured lightweight carbon seats and blackcoloured Speedline alloy wheels. All VXR220s were finished in Calypso Red. Already collectable and on the up thanks to their rarity, VX220s are guaranteed future classics and make a great investment as well as remaining a terrific car to drive.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

Back-to-basics cabin continues the race-car feel, but check the removable roof panels for leaks.

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SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

Overall, the VX is pretty reliable, but there are one or two things you need to be aware of. Some early 2.2s have a reputation for seizing their cambelt pulleys, leading

‘VX220s are collectable and on the up, and make a great investment as well as remaining terrific to drive’

to inevitably disastrous engine damage, so listen for a shrill, high-pitched noise from the top of the motor.

“Engine mounts are also prone to failure, so do a road test of any potential purchase. Practice a sharp acceleration and braking sequence, and listen for a knocking noise,” says John Thorne of Thorney Motorsport (www.thorney motorsport.co.uk), one of the best-known VX220 specialists in the UK. “For both models, make sure the main rectification work has been done – for the Turbo models it’s the poly V-belt, spark plugs and coil packs, and for the 2.2 check the electrics, throttle body and air intakes. Otherwise, it’s just regular maintenance – and to avoid anything

that has been driven overly hard.”

Getrag gearboxes are pretty tough and rarely give problems unless driven exceptionally hard. Listen for a grating noise that could indicate bearing wear, because this is an early sign of transmission failure. It’s a common GM ’box, and replacements aren’t expensive if you do find that you need one.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES While there’s nothing specific on the watch list to be especially wary of, these are high-performance cars that are often driven enthusiastically.

“You need to check the brakes and suspension, and the tyre wear, too, because even the best rubber will wear

out quickly,” says John. “On the VXR220 Turbo remember that the front and rear tyres are different sizes, with 16s on the front and 17s on the rear. This is the same set-up as the Lotus Elise.”

Brakes tend to wear out pretty quickly, even though the VX220 is a lightweight car. The good news is that replacement components really aren’t that expensive.

The VX220’s steering is extremely sharp and precise, and any sloppiness or lack of directness can normally be attributed to wear in the suspension knuckles or ball-joints, in particular the lower-arm joints or bushes. Because of the car’s firm and direct set-up, worn steering joints can feel quite scary, so be sure to get them sorted.

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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VX220 Turbo replaced the original 2.2-litre engine with the Astra SRi’s 197bhp 2.0 unit.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR “The golden rule is to check, check and check again,” says John. “Accident damage to the body or chassis is by far the most expensive thing to put right, and with any VX220 you must ensure you’re buying an example that’s as straight as it should be.”

For a long time VX220s were fairly cheap to buy. Consequently many were purchased by drivers who weren’t used to rear-wheel-drive behaviour – or if they were, they had previously driven an MG TF or a Mazda MX-5, which dynamically are a very different kettle of fish.

As a result, many cars made backwards excursions from the road. This creates a double problem. Firstly, glassfibre body repairs can be hugely costly to put right.

Of even greater concern, if the extruded aluminium spaceframe is heavily damaged, it can be really difficult to sort – and can even result in the car being written off.

Inside the sporty but basic cabin, the driver’s-seat bolster is particularly prone to wear, as you’re pretty much guaranteed to clobber it every time you get in or out.

The optional leather trim is more robust.

Scratches and scuffs on the top of the sills are virtually unavoidable, too.

WHICH TO BUY Whatever version of the VX220 you go for, you’re guaranteed a car that promises to be tremendous fun to drive. There are quite a few purists who prefer the original 2.2-litre model, and it’s certainly favoured

220

‘From a collector’s perspective the limited-production VXR220 is the one to go for; it is a guaranteed safe future investment’ in terms of its almost-perfect handling balance. For most, however, the later turbocharged cars are faster and generally the more sought after of all the variants.

“For both their purity of handling and their sound, the 2.2 normally aspirated car is best, but it is a good deal slower than the Turbo,” says John. “The latter is faster and more easily tunable, but it is also heavier and not as sharp handling. I’d still go for the Turbo personally, as its addictive in terms of its power.”

From a collector’s perspective there’s absolutely no debate, though. The limitedproduction VXR220 is the one to go for; it is a guaranteed safe future investment.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £12,000 Good: £18,000 Excellent: £22,000

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

MODEL HISTORY 1999: VX220/Opel Speedster concept, created by GM designer Martin Smith, is shown at Geneva Motor Show 2000: VX220 and Opel Speedster go into production in July at Lotus factory located in Hethel, Norfolk 2003: VX220 Turbo appears, retaining 220 name but not its 2.2-litre engine.

Instead newcomer gets 197bhp/200PS 2.0-litre unit from Astra SRi 2004: Limited-production VXR220 appears for UK market only, with uprated chassis, Speedline alloy wheels and semi-slick racing tyres 2005: Production ends in July

SPECIFICATIONS 2.2-litre Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

144bhp 135mph 5.6 seconds 34mpg

2.0-litre (Turbo) Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

197bhp 151mph 4.7 seconds 31mpg

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BUYING GUIDE

1955–1974

Volkswagen Karmann Ghia Sexy Italian styling and dependable German engineering combine to create a true masterpiece

T

HE GHIA CAN TRACE ITS origins back to Karmann’s work on the VW Beetle droptop. The car-body firm saw the potential in the platform, and approached VW with a proposal for a sports car codeveloped with the Ghia design studio, with Luigi Segre on the pencils. In 1955 the Type 14 Karmann Ghia was launched.

Its inherent beauty won the car plaudits from the public, even if the Beetle underpinnings meant this elegant machine was more of a cruiser than its racy profile suggested. Continual tweaking and honing through the production run meant it rarely dropped in popularity.

A switch to 12-volt electrics from 1967on, and independent rear suspension on

all 1969 and newer models, were the major mechanical changes. However, there are several styling changes that still cause Karmann Ghia aficionados to argue about which years’ styling looked best.

The Type 34 of 1961 was a larger car, styled by Sergio Sartorelli and based on the Type 3 VW chassis. Sold alongside the original Karmann, it was marketed as a plusher alternative, offering more standard kit and space but at a higher cost. It had more modern suspension and luxury extras such as an electric sunroof and better trim. Higher pricing and no US sales limited uptake, and it proved to be less successful than the original. Production wrapped up in 1969, with 42,498 built.

Mason Hogg of the Karmann Ghia

‘Italian design by Ghia with German underpinnings.

You get the best of both worlds: style and reliability’

Centre (www.kgcentre.co.uk) explains the appeal: “Italian design by Ghia with German underpinnings,” he says. “You get the best of both worlds: style and reliability.”

Approximately 444,000 Ghias were constructed in total, and thanks to the wide availability of parts and the cars’ popularity, the survival rate is relatively high.

MAGIC CAR PICS

ENGINE

Trim is readily available, and retrims are cost effective. Don’t let a poor cabin be a deal-breaker.

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Because the Karmann Ghia Type 14 is a Beetle underneath the elegant lines, it benefits from reasonable parts prices and good availability. The rear-mounted flatfours range between 1.2 and 1.6 litres, and weep oil just like any healthy Beetle would.

“The first thing I do when checking an engine is to grab the bottom pulley and

see if there is much movement back and forth,” says Mason. “If there is, it will need a rebuild sooner rather than later because the oil pressure will be low. Secondly, smoking on start-up indicates worn rings.”

“Regular oil changes are a law to abide by, and owners can expect 100,000 miles out of a well maintained engine before a rebuild is needed,” he adds. Check fanbelts and oil coolers – overheating is the top killer. You can expect to find reworked carbs, upgraded manifolds and rebored engines, because modification isn’t always seen as a bad thing in the Type 14 world.

GEARBOX These ’boxes are tough, and from 1961 all forward gears received synchromesh. In

1968 a three-speed semi-auto was made available. Parts are easy to come by – again, it’s all Beetle derived – and the low power and torque outputs mean clutches last a long time, although rattling in neutral can indicate worn bearings.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

post-’67 Type 14s getting front discs. Semitrailing-arm rear suspension replaced the swing axles in 1969, which is worth knowing if you are looking for a sweeterhandling variant or just want an original example. Check the tyres for uneven wear, because this can mean the suspension components are no longer fresh.

The suspension and brake set-up varies from year to year. “Walk round the car and lean on each wing. If the dampers squeak and don’t settle quickly, it could indicate worn dampers,” says Mason.

“For the steering, see if you can raise the car and spin the wheels, to check the bearings. Meanwhile, too much play at the steering wheel is an MoT failure.”

Early Ghias had drums all round, with

This is the area of most concern when considering a purchase. “Bodywise, walk around the car and check out panel fit and look for accident damage,” says Mason.

“Then inspect the outer sills and inner heater channels for rust.”

Rot or damage over several panels may render a car financially unrealistic to restore

BODYWORK

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

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MODEL HISTORY 1955: Type 14 Karmann Ghia launched in Coupé bodystyle, available only in LHD 1957: Convertible model launched in LHD 1959: Both Coupé and Convertible models now available in RHD. Dashboard padded for enhanced safety 1960: Headlight height raised and taillights enlarged in order to meet new automotive regulations 1961’s larger Type 34 was based on the VW Type 3 chassis, bringing additional space and luxury.

thanks to the parts and labour cost to put it all back together again.

Sills are especially important on droptops because strengthening beams run through this area to provide structural integrity. These were once impossible to get, but can now be sourced; any rot issues here are not as serious as they used to be.

The rear bootlid, spare tyre well and around the battery, where spilt acid can cause issues, are also known rust spots.

The single-piece nose cones can be prohibitively costly to replace or repair, so thoroughly investigate for accident damage.

INTERIOR An otherwise sound Type 14 with a lessthan-great cabin needn’t be a deal-breaker.

Trim is readily available, and entire retrims are far less costly than extensive body or mechanical work – prioritise those.

The Type 34 is mechanically identical to other Type 3-chassis cars, such as the 1500 and 1600 Notchback. As in the older Ghia, it has unique interior trim and bodywork compared with other VW models. Lower production numbers mean parts are slightly harder to source.

WHICH TO BUY Speed freaks and adrenaline junkies should look elsewhere for their thrills.

Remember, this is a Beetle underneath, and even in 1.6-litre form acceleration is best described as leisurely. The Ghia is all

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about stylish cruising at a relaxed pace.

Type 14s built for 1960 and 1967 had a lot of bespoke parts unique to those years of manufacture, so make sure that if you buy one, it’s as complete as possible. Pre1959 models are called ‘lowlights’ due to their different head and taillight designs.

They’re much rarer than the later Karmann Ghias, and Convertibles from this era are arguably the most collectible of the lot.

The past decade has seen continual price rises, and this will most likely carry on. However, not all cars have been well cared for, so do your homework before committing. There are plenty still around, so you can afford to be selective.

“Fewer Convertibles were made, so their price has always been higher,” says Mason. “As for the year, the lowlights are popular but not great to drive in everyday traffic unless upgraded. My favourite is 1967, which was the first year of disc front brakes and 12v electrics, but still kept the older door handles, styling and so on.”

With affordable mechanicals clothed in beautiful body panels, the Karmann Ghia’s enduring popularity is more than assured. Buy right, and it can be all the classic car you will ever need.

INSURANCE AND AGREED VA LUAT I O N S

Fair: £9800 Good: £16,500 Excellent: £26,500 (1957 Ghia Convertible)

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

1961: Type 34 Karmann Ghia Coupé with 1500cc engine offered alongside existing Type 14 1962: Optional electric sunroof introduced on Type 34 in LHD models only 1964: RHD Type 34 models now also offered with sunroof option 1966: 1300cc engine available for one year of production for Type 14 1967: 1500cc engine standard across all Karmann Ghias, as well as front disc brakes. Three-speed semi-automatic gearbox introduced 1969: Type 34 production ends, with 42,498 cars made. Type 14 receives updated suspension 1970: 1600cc engine introduced and bumpers redesigned. Convertibles get glass rear window 1974: Type 14 production ends, with 444,300 vehicles made

SPECIFICATIONS 1.2-litre flat-four Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

34bhp 75mph 27 seconds 36mpg (est.)

1.6-litre flat-four Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

60bhp 93mph 20 seconds 32mpg (est.)

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& BUY Find more than 14,000 classics on Europe’s market for classic vehicles.

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TOP TEN SPORTS CARS TO BUY NOW

CATERHAM SEVEN R400

All Caterhams are light, but the Superlights take performance to supercar levels. The R400’s 1.8-litre K-series gives a more-than-enough 200bhp for £25,950 (Oakmere).

ALFA ROMEO 1750 SPIDER

One of 200 UK-supplied Series 1 Spiders built and rare to find in Verde Vivo green, it’s got new brakes, suspension and exhaust. It costs £69,995 (Classic Connection).

HONDA S2000

This Synchro Silver metallic 2009 AP1 example has had just one owner from new. It’s covered only 20,924 miles, and is up for grabs for £22,450 (Classic Cars of Wirral).

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AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MK3

This late Phase 2 Mk3 3000 was built in 1967, and has been upgraded with EZ electric power steering and a superior handling package; it’s £92,500 (Murray Scott-Nelson).

Top ten sports cars to buy now You’ve read the preceding pages, digested the information and now you’re seriously tempted – so let’s take a look at what the Classic Trader website has to offer MAZDA MX-5 1.6

Early MX-5s are thin on the ground, and cars with mileages as low as this are unheard of. This 1991 example has covered just 25,806 miles, and costs £14,995 (KGF Classic Cars).

SPORTS CAR BUYING GUIDE

FERRARI 360 SPIDER

This 2004 model has the desired manual gearbox and is rare for not being in red. It’s covered just 11,125 miles and is available for £89,995 (Hexagon Classics).

MGB ROADSTER

One of the last examples made, this 1980 Series 4 model has covered only 19,800 miles. It’s just received a new battery, ignition system and exhaust.

It’ll cost around £15,000 (The Market).

JAGUAR XK150 3.4 S OTS

One of only 44 RHD XK150 S Roadsters built, this dates from November 1958.

It had an extensive restoration in the 1990s and has been doted on since.

It’s £194,995 (Classic Motor Cars).

LOTUS ELISE 111

This one-owner-from-new 1998 example has been well upgraded with S2 sports suspension and a Janspeed sports exhaust system; it’ll cost £23,995 (Barry Ely Sportscars).

CARS FOR SALE AT TIME OF GOING TO PRINT, MAY NOT BE AVAILABLE NOW

TRIUMPH TR5 PI

Already a rare car, an original RHD UK example is approaching unicorn status. This 1968 Jasmine Yellow model has had a £27k resto and costs £64,996 (Absolute Classic Cars).

Specialist Car finance that will help with your latest acquisition

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