Classic Trader Classic Car Buying Guide 2021

Classic Car BUYING GUIDE 2021

50 most popular classics

from Alfa Romeo to VW PLUS

W H AT T O LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A CLASSIC

IN ASS O C I AT I O N WITH

WHAT TO PAY

BARGAINS TO BUY NOW

MODERN CLASSICS

£5

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Most valuable automobile ever sold at a dedicated online only collector car auction

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1965 Aston Martin DB5 “Bond Car” Sold for $6,385,000.

Most valuable DB5 sold at auction

our track record of successfully selling many of the world’s top brands continues to lead the global industry.

1998 Mercedes-Benz AMG CLK GTR Sold for $4,515,000.

Record for the model at auction

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2005 Porsche Carrera GT Sold for CHF781,000.

Offered from the Swiss Porsche Collection

EDITOR’S WELCOME

MANAGING DIRECTOR Geoff Love EDITORIAL DIRECTOR David Lillywhite ART DIRECTOR Peter Allen MANAGING EDITOR Sarah Bradley

STAFF WRITER Elliott Hughes ADVERTISING SALES Jayne Philips, Laura Holloway, Sue Farrow, Rob Schulp BUYING GUIDE WRITERS John Tallodi, Craig Cheetham PHOTOGRAPHY Magic Car Pics, Shutterstock, Richard Dredge, AL Robinson, Antonello Marangi, Aston Martin, Audi, BMW, Caterham, Fiat, Honda, Jaguar Land Rover, Lamborghini, Lotus, Mazda, Mercedes-Benz, Nissan, Porsche, Subaru, Volkswagen PUBLISHED BY Hothouse Media Ltd, UK, on behalf of Classic Trader GmbH. info@hothousemedia.co.uk PRINTED BY Buxton Press

GOODWOOD/JAYSON FONG

ART EDITOR Debbie Nolan

W

ELCOME TO THE FIRST EDITION OF THE Classic Trader Classic Car Buying Guide, packed with essential information. We hope you enjoy it!

Working with our favourite cars-for-sale website Classic Trader and classic car insurance specialist Footman James, we’ve chosen 50 of the most interesting classic models on the market. They range from 1960s sports cars to modern classic hot hatches, and from friendly Citroën 2CV to ferocious Lamborghini Gallardo.

The cheapest start at a couple of thousand pounds. The most expensive… well, how are your lottery numbers looking lately?

But delving into the strengths and weaknesses of any classic car is fascinating, whether you’re setting out next weekend to buy one, or simply dreaming of a future purchase.

©Hothouse Media Ltd. All rights reserved.

All material in this publication, whether in whole or in part, may not be reproduced, transmitted or distributed in any form without the written permission of Hothouse Media Ltd.

We’ve also included comprehensive guides on where to buy and

Hothouse Media Ltd. uses a layered privacy notice giving you brief details about how we would like to use your personal information. For full details, please visit www.magnetomagazine.com/privacy/

section on how to buy an early model.

Great care has been taken throughout the magazine to be accurate, but the publisher cannot accept any responsibility for any errors or omissions that might occur. The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees or assurances, and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised in this edition.

Classic Car Buying Guide ISSN 2753-9857

what to look for when inspecting a classic car, and although the 50 guides don’t include pre-war cars this time around, there is a If the buying guide you want isn’t in this edition, then don’t despair, because not only might it be in a future one, but there are also hundreds more online at www.classic-trader.com – along with thousands of classic cars for sale.

David Lillywhite, editor CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 3

Inside...

6 8 14 22 26 226

Introducing the Classic Trader Buying Guide

ABOUT CLASSIC TRADER Website that’s one of the UK’s major classic car sales hubs

WHICH CLASSIC CAR TO CHOOSE What questions to ask yourself when making buying decisions

WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING Our guide to choosing with your head, not your heart

WHERE TO BUY AND SELL CLASSIC CARS Private sellers, dealers or auctions; what’s your best option?

BUYING A PRE-WAR CLASSIC CAR Guaranteed character and charm! Here’s what to look out for

TOP TEN CLASSIC CAR BARGAINS Proof that you don’t have to spend a fortune to buy a classic

4 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

MAGIC CAR PICS

3

WELCOME

CONTENTS

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDES 30 Alfa Romeo Giulia 105 Series 34 Alfa Romeo Spider 38 Aston Martin DB4, DB5 and DB6 44 Aston Martin V8 and V8 Vantage 48 Aston Martin DB9 52 Audi TT Mk1 54 Austin-Healey 3000 58 BMW E30 M3 62 BMW Z3 M Coupé 64 Caterham Seven 68 Citroën DS 72 Citroën 2CV 76 Ferrari Dino 206/246 78 Ferrari 308 and 328 84 Ferrari 360 88 Fiat 500 92 Ford Capri Mk1, Mk2 and Mk3 96 Ford Escort Mk1 and Mk2 100 Honda S2000 104 Jaguar E-type 110 Jaguar Mk2 and Daimler V8 114 Jaguar XJ6 and XJ12 118 Jaguar XJS 122 Lamborghini Countach 126 Lamborghini Gallardo 128 Lancia Delta Integrale

160 MGF and TF 164 BMC/Austin/Morris/Rover Mini 170 Morgan Plus 4, Plus 8 and V6 Roadster 174 Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 176 Peugeot 205 GTI 180 Porsche 912 184 Porsche 944 186 Porsche 964 and 993 192 Porsche Boxster 986 196 Range Rover

132 Land Rover Ninety/ One-Ten/Defender

200 Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley T-series

138 Lotus Elan

204 Subaru Impreza Turbo

142 Lotus Elise

208 Triumph TR4, TR5 and TR6

146 Mazda MX-5

212 TVR Griffith

148 Mercedes-Benz 280SL Pagoda

214 Volkswagen Beetle

152 MGB and MGB GT

218 Volkswagen Type 2

156 MG Midget and Austin-Healey Sprite

222 Volkswagen Golf Mk1 and Mk2 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 5

ABOUT CLASSIC TRADER

ABOUT CLASSIC TRADER The international website is one of the UK’s most important classic car sales hubs, and is packed with even more buying guides and features WORDS: DAVID LILLYWHITE PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

6 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

D

O YOU KNOW ABOUT Classic Trader? If you don’t, you really should! Since it was launched in Germany in 2013, it’s been one of the fastest-growing classic car sales websites in the world, serving up around 14,000 cars for sale.

It was founded by Christian Plagemann and Torsten Claus, two classic enthusiasts who had been part of modern car websites in Germany before deciding to indulge their passions for older machinery. Their

ambition was always to build an international market, and in that the team has succeeded – Classic Trader is now the world’s largest platform for cross-border trading, operating across nine language editions with cars for sale from over 30 countries. It reaches 1.2 million unique visitors every month, with more than seven million monthly page views.

The UK site accounts for around one third of that traffic, with typically 2.2 million page views a month. It’s big!

The website was designed to be extremely easy to navigate and to upload cars for sale to. For that reason it’s popular with specialist dealers and auction houses, as well as with private individuals who are looking to sell their classic and collector cars.

Big names using Classic Trader in the UK include Silverstone Auctions, Girardo & Co, Historics and many more, attracted to the platform for the quality of its audience and the ease with which they can monitor the response to their adverts.

Here at Hothouse Media we work closely with Classic Trader to liaise with UK dealers and to create English-language articles for the ‘magazine’ section of the website, which you’ll find at www.classic-trader.com/en/magazine – so if you find the buying guides useful here, you’ll discover additional ones online, with more being added all the time.

‘The Classic Trader website was designed to be extremely easy to navigate, and also to upload cars for sale to’ If you are a car dealer wanting to feature your cars on Classic Trader, then email jayne@classic-trader.com. And if the buying guides inspire you to search for cars for sale, you know which website to look on! Classic Trader can be found at www.classic-trader.com.

Quality of audience, simplicity of navigation and ease of monitoring advert response are chief among appeal of Classic Trader digital sales platform

FOOTMAN JAMES Well known UK classic car and bike insurance company Footman James is the sponsor of this publication, underlining its extensive support of the classic world.

The company was formed in 1983, and has always had a major presence at classic car and bike events. It now also organises its own Coffee & Chrome meets, and its specialist policies cover kit and replica cars, high-value collections, classic motor trade, and classic wedding and funeral vehicles as well.

If you’re new to the classic world, you might wonder why you even need a specialist policy. The difference from mainstream modern car policies is that at Footman James experts are employed to understand the unique distinctions between classic cars and their values, the different repair techniques required and the need to ensure that a badly damaged classic isn’t automatically written off and scrapped. Agreed values and limited-mileage policies help to protect owners and keep premiums low.

Footman James also has links with many of the UK’s leading car clubs, offering more favourable rates to organisation members.

For more information, visit www.footmanjames.co.uk or call 0333 207 6212.

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 7

WHICH CAR TO CHOOSE

WHICH CLASSIC CAR TO CHOOSE

Here’s how to examine what you are really after, by asking yourself several seemingly obvious questions

WORDS: DAVID LILLYWHITE PHOTOS: MAGIC CAR PICS

8 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

I

T’S NOT ALWAYS EASY TO know what classic car you actually want… there are so many choices.

But there’s one crucial rule, above all others; buy what you really want, not what your friends say you should have, and not what you think will make money.

Classic cars need love, attention and cash to keep them on the road.

This may be one of those articles that you read and think: “Yes, I knew that!”

But from my own car buying, from the car buying of friends and from the questions I’ve been asked over the past 20-odd years during my times on Practical Classics, Classic Cars, Classic Car Weekly, Octane, Magneto and indeed Classic Trader, I know that we don’t always think our classic car purchases through. And that’s an understatement.

So, first off, what’s pulling on your heartstrings? Very often, it’s something associated with childhood, or that you wanted in your teens or early 20s but couldn’t afford at the time. Slow down, though. Have you ever tried your dream car? Do you even fit in it? Does the family fit? Do you want them to…?

Be realistic about how and where you are going to use the car. Is it for quick trips to the pub, track days, long-distance adventures, historic rallying, or a bit of everything? If it’s open-top, do you know if you actually enjoy driving with the hood down? In most cases, classic sports cars – even those as recent as early Mazda MX-5s – can be a bit miserable with the hood up, but a delight with it down if you do enjoy the wind in your hair. It is

a similar story with a highly modified classic: incredible fun for quick blasts, often headache inducing on long runs.

Is it to get into and drive immediately, or is it a restoration project? If it’s the latter, do the time-and-money sums, and then double them – and then add a bit more. Yes, really. And bear in mind that in the long run a scruffy, badly maintained car might cost just as much to restore as a wreck if you’re aiming for something immaculate at the end of it. Most of all, check that all the components are present, especially exterior and interior trim parts.

Where are you going to keep the car? If you want to keep a classic looking good in the UK, really it needs to be kept under cover, especially if it’s a convertible. And – don’t laugh – consider whether it will fit in the planned storage space. I’m not going to tell you why I mention this...

Will you work on it yourself? If you’re still learning and you want to really dive in, go for something pre-1980s. Later than that, and the electronics and fuel injection make life harder, although early systems such as a Golf GTI Mk1’s K-Jetronic system are relatively easy to figure out.

Once-everyday cars of the 1950s, ’60s and early ’70s are generally the easiest to work on, whether they’re family saloons or budget sports cars. British and European four-cylinder models and American straight-sixes and V8s are usually the most basic – but the more cylinders, the more cost in maintenance.

Pre-war cars are the most satisfying to work on, and the relative lack of spares is made up for with the simplicity of the

D O I WA N T A R E S T O R AT I O N PROJECT?

WILL I ENJOY DRIVING AN O P E N-TO P?

WILL REPLACEMENT PA R T S B E R E A D I LY AVA I L A B L E ?

WHERE AM I GOING TO STORE IT?

WILL MY NEW CAR BE USED R E G U L A R LY ?

HOW AND WHERE AM I GOING TO DRIVE IT?

‘Buy what you really want, not what your friends say you should have, and not what you think will make money’

10 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

engineering, not to mention the absence of difficult-to-reproduce plastics. Models from the 1980s and later tend to need less everyday maintenance but are more complicated and difficult to restore.

Some cars are much better catered for than others in terms of spares and specialist back-up. Parts for MGBs, Midgets and Sprites, Minis, E-types and Triumph TRs, for example, are famously available and affordable. Classic Fords also tend to be well catered for, but replacement body panels are sometimes wallet-bustingly expensive. Porsche 911s, classic Mercedes and BMWs are all supported by factory spares schemes as well as specialists. MX-5s and BMW Minis are looking ever better for parts availability. Whatever model you are considering, do check before you buy.

But, once again, choose a car that means something to you, that gets you excited. And think about how you’re going to use it. If it’s for regular driving, maybe you shouldn’t worry too much if the paintwork isn’t perfect, for example.

If it is for occasional use, a bit of mechanical deterioration isn’t going to be a problem – it might be years before it actually wears out entirely. Don’t assume that everything has to be perfect, because patinated classics are often more fun.

Don’t get too hung up on mileage,

either. A car that’s been sat around unused for years will be far more trouble than a well maintained, regularly driven example that has had its worn parts replaced whenever necessary.

Finally, think about where a vehicle is in its life cycle. Most cars go through a low point at which values have dropped and repairs prove uneconomic. This is when they start to be scrapped. Then suddenly there are very few around, just at the point where the now 40- or 50-something enthusiast who has wanted that model since his or her teens gains the time and money to actually buy a good example.

The sums are simple. The car was new or nearly new when it became an object of teenage lust. Twenty-five years or more later, that former teen’s kids are growing up, finances are looking better, the new kitchen is installed and paid for, and suddenly there’s some available cash for a classic.

And so, when the car hits around 25 to 30 years old, it suddenly starts to gain in collectability again – a good time to buy.

Then the scarcity of good examples prompts a feeding frenzy, and prices peak (a bad time to buy) and then often settle down again. You can see it in Peugeot 205s, Golf Mk1s and 2s, RS Fords and, most of all, Porsche 911s at the moment.

Do the maths, and buy at the right time.

Happy hunting!

THE CLASSIC

MOTOR HUB

+44 (0)1242 384092 : GLOUCESTERSHIRE, GL7 5NX : INFO@CLASSICMOTORHUB.COM : WWW.CLASSICMOTORHUB.COM

SALES : STORAGE : TRANSPORT : EVENTS : COFFEE SHOP Based at the historic site of RAF Bibury in the heart of the Cotswolds, The Classic Motor Hub has something for everyone on our five-acre site dedicated to classic motoring; we’re experts in sales, storage and transport of classic cars, bikes and modern high performance machines. Our Showrooms are open Tuesday to Friday, 9am – 5pm and 10am – 3pm on Saturdays. The Hub Cooee House and Shop are open Tuesday – Saturday, 10am – 3pm and on select Sundays for events.

RECENTLY SOLD AT THE HUB

CURRENTLY IN STOCK 1959 AC ACE BRISTOL FACTORY 2.2 ♦ 1931 ASTON MARTIN INTERNATIONAL LE MANS ♦ 1953 ASTON MARTIN DB2 VANTAGE 1997 ASTON MARTIN VANTAGE V550 ♦ 1927 BENTLEY 3/8 SPECIAL ♦ 1939 BENTLEY 4 1/4 VDP OPEN TOURER ‘HONEYSUCKLE’ 1934 BENTLEY 3½ PILLARLESS COUPÉ BY GURNEY NUTTING ♦ 1938 BENTLEY ‘CONTINENTAL TRIALS’ 4¼ OVERDRIVE SALOON 2000 BENTLEY CONTINENTAL R MULLINER ♦ 1974 BMW 2002 TURBO ♦ 1929 BUGATTI TYPE 40 GRAND SPORT TOURER 1911 CHALMERS DETROIT MODEL 11/30 HP ♦ 1932 FRAZER NASH NÜRBURG ♦ 1937 FRAZER NASH BMW 319/328 SPORTS SPECIAL 1938 FRAZER NASH-BMW 328 ♦ 1956 JAGUAR D-TYPE – XKD 526 ♦ 1961 JAGUAR E-TYPE S1 FLAT FLOOR 3.8 L 1929 LAGONDA 2 LITRE SALOON – M45R ENGINE ♦ 1954 LANCIA AURELIA B20 GT SERIES 4 ♦ 1934 MG K3 #K3015 MILLE MIGLIA 1929 PACKARD 640 RUMBLE SEAT COUPE ♦ 1976 RANGE ROVER SUFFIX D S1 ♦ 1965 TVR TRIDENT PROTOTYPE

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Bidding on a successful sale Selling and buying classics has never been easier or more secure, thanks to Silverstone Auctions’ comprehensive service

S

EARCHING FOR THE IDEAL way to sell your pride and joy?

Or perhaps you’re looking to add to your classic car collection in the safe knowledge that your potential purchase is everything you want it to be?

UK market leader Silverstone Auctions may offer just the answer. Having achieved exciting new sales records during the pandemic, the Warwickshire-based classic specialist has established a successful hybrid auction format that ensures the best service throughout the entire process, prioritising sellers and buyers alike.

Drawing from their collective decades of knowledge, members of the auction house’s expert team will collaborate with the seller to extensively research a car’s history and accurately determine its value. A comprehensive HPI Check will be performed as a matter of course to ensure the vehicle’s ownership and financial history throws up no undue surprises. This way, all parties can be assured that due diligence has been used.

A detailed description will then be written, for which the seller has final approval. When it comes to promoting the sale, Silverstone Auctions’ in-house marketing and PR team will work hard to push the details to a global audience, while the listing of cars on third-party 12 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

websites in addition to two external bidding platforms secures the broadestpossible international reach.

Skilled staff will directly manage enquiries from interested buyers, as well as utilise an established database of enthusiasts and collectors. Regarding cars of particular interest, they will make personal contact with potential purchasers.

Viewings by appointment will be available at Silverstone Auctions’ centrally located secure facility in the weeks preceding the sale. Where local pandemic restrictions apply, the auction house also offers virtual viewings, in which buyers are given informed and educated assistance.

All parties can be assured that the final, and arguably most important, aspect of the process – the financial transaction – will be handled via a professional accounts team. This provides peace of mind for both seller and buyer.

Silverstone Auctions’ post-sale services are equally impressive, thanks to its comprehensive network of validated independent vehicle inspection, insurance and transportation partners.

Nothing has been overlooked when it comes to orchestrating a cherished car’s journey from one owner to the next. For further details, please see www.silverstoneauctions.com.

‘Nothing has been overlooked when it comes to orchestrating a cherished car’s journey from one owner to the next’

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WHAT

TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A CLASSIC CAR Always purchase a classic with your head, not your heart.

Follow our guide to the letter to ensure you know what you’re getting – and when you should simply walk away

14 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK Make sure you view the car in natural light, when it’s dry. Rain and artificial light hide many sins. Before anything else, peer along the sides of the body to look for ripples, panel misalignment, patches of dull paintwork and bulges of filler or rust.

Research the model you’re interested in so you know where all panel joins should be. There will often be a distinct line showing the join between, for example, rear wing and sill – but on a badly repaired car that may have been filled over.

Then look for signs of recent repainting, such as overspray under the wheelarches, on the tyres, exhaust and suspension components, on the window rubbers or covering over factory stickers. A freshly resprayed car may smell of solvents inside, and there might be filler dust or overspray evident in the cabin. Walk away!

It’s perfectly acceptable for a classic car to have been resprayed, but rust may take a year or more to return if the work has been bodged. Look for bubbles under the paint around the arches, screen scuttles and door bottoms. Feel the latter and around the insides of the arches (do they go crinkly or thick in places?), and around all the bonnet and boot seams.

On a glassfibre body, cracks, crazing and chips in the outer ‘gelcoat’ surface, might indicate accident damage or stresses.

To repair them properly, the gelcoat needs to be ground down and filled; a big job.

Make sure doors and other opening panels fit correctly and shut easily, and that the panel gaps around them are even. Many older cars, generally pre-1980, had terrible gapping from new (Triumph Heralds, Spitfires and the like were some of the worst), while VW and Porsche doors tend to bounce off their rubbers unless shut firmly – but generally doors should still shut well. Make sure they’re not dropping as they’re opened, indicating poor fit or worn hinges (a difficult repair).

UNDERNEATH THE CAR WORDS: DAVID LILLYWHITE PHOTOS: BENTLEY, BMW, SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

You’ll probably need to jack up the car to look underneath. It might feel odd asking for this to be done, yet it’s crucial. But don’t even reach under a jacked-up vehicle

unless it’s supported with axle stands.

You’re looking for rust and accident damage. There will usually be mud, oil and underseal over everything. Be deeply suspicious of fresh, thick, black underseal.

Unless the car is immaculate underneath, don’t be afraid to use a hefty screwdriver to poke at the metalwork.

Box sections, floors and suspension mounts all need checking carefully. So too the sills, especially at their ends, under the wheelarches. Think of a sill as a box section, running along the outside-lower edge of each side of the car; usually any rust on the outside edge is obvious, but it may be hidden by a cover.

The inner section of sill, joined with the floor, is the most likely to rust – often from the inside, which won’t be visible. If you’re really keen, an illuminated endoscope (now surprisingly cheap) can sometimes be inserted into the sill. Otherwise, you need to feel along the inside edges if they’re covered by carpet (or look under the carpet), and also look at any exposed areas of inner sill under the car.

Cars with MacPherson struts, such as 1950s-on Fords, can suffer from corroded strut mounts – the areas on the tops of the inner wings, visible with the bonnet up (and inside the boot for rear struts).

But any rust will be worst on the underside – a build-up of damp mud is a warning sign. Replacement is an involved process.

Don’t underestimate the possible cost and difficulty in sourcing exterior trim and glass. Rechroming costs are high, but if parts are missing they’ll often be very difficult to find. Windscreens can often be remade, at a cost, and most are still available. But don’t assume that they are…

ENGINE Make sure the engine is cold. You can ask the vendor not to start it until you arrive; a pre-warmed powerplant might be hiding a cold-starting problem.

Before the unit is fired up, take a look around it for fluid leaks. The older the car, the more likely the engine is to leak oil, so don’t be too worried about a sheen of lubricant over the bottom of the sump.

If the top of the motor is covered in oil,

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 15

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

can you tell where it’s coming from? It may be blowing out of a breather – often the filler cap – indicating a worn engine.

Dripping lubricant is not acceptable on a post-war car. It may mean a crankshaft oil-seal problem, which could require an engine rebuild. Look at where the vehicle is parked normally. Are there patches of fluid? Transmission oil has a distinctive smell, while engine coolant is usually green or pink tinged, and feels greasy.

Dried coolant often shows up around any leaking hoses. Are the hoses hard and brittle, or cracked and perished?

They should be pliable. The same goes for fuel hoses, with the added risk of fire.

With the engine still cool, check the insides of the caps for the oil filler and coolant system. The presence of a white substance, which is often compared with mayonnaise, likely means oil and water are mixing. This is usually due to a blown cylinder-head gasket; it’s bad news.

Check the dipstick. Even fresh oil will look dirty very quickly, so don’t worry if it’s black – but do be concerned if it’s registering below the ‘low’ mark.

Only now should you get the owner to fire up the engine, while you listen for odd noises. Worst case on start-up is a knocking from deep down. That will be worn crankshaft big-end bearings – necessitating a rebuild.

Or there might be a low rumble, which is harder to detect but could mean worn crankshaft main bearings. Rattles and tapping from the top of the engine will also mean wear, although it might be fixable through adjustment of the valvegear.

Chuffing noises usually indicate leaking exhaust manifolds. Carefully move your hand over the joints between the manifold and the cylinder head (they’ll be hot!) to feel for exhaust gas escaping. Make sure you’re not wearing any loose clothing that might get caught round pulleys or fans.

Whining noises may be worn generator bearings, which isn’t disastrous.

Once the engine is warmed up, rev it – not too fiercely at first – making sure it responds without hesitation. Then get the owner to do the same while you watch for smoke from the exhaust. Blue means oil (a worn engine), white is generally just 16 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

condensation, although it could be a head-gasket problem (bad). Occasionally it’s caused by brake fluid being drawn into the engine from a faulty servo. Black is a fuelling problem, which will need to be fixed but shouldn’t require a full rebuild.

On the road, listen for odd noises again, and make sure there’s no hesitation or misfire. A good classic will run cleanly, regardless of age. Watch the temperature gauge – it shouldn’t go above two-thirds, even in traffic. If there’s an oil-pressure gauge, expect it to be high when the engine is cold, dropping low when warm at idle, and midway at normal running.

Once back at base, leave the engine running for ten minutes and watch the temperature gauge. If it creeps towards the red, there’s a problem, and you’re best off walking away – has the motor previously overheated and damaged the cylinder head? There’s no way of knowing.

TRANSMISSION You can look for oil leaks and damage to any rubber gaitors when you’re under the car. Operate the clutch to ensure the pedal movement is smooth, and check that the shift feels precise (making allowances for vehicles with long linkages, such as early front-wheel-drive and rear-engined cars).

Listen out for clonks and knocks when you pull away and change gear. Usually that will be worn driveshaft joints, or maybe worn engine or gearbox mounts – neither of which are too onerous.

Accelerate and decelerate sharply in each ratio to make sure the car doesn’t jump out of gear, and try fast changes to see if the ’box crunches. Many pre-1970s cars won’t have synchromesh on first, so

‘Make sure you view a potential purchase in natural light, when it’s dry. Rain and artificial light hide many sins’

it will graunch if you try to get it into bottom while on the move. The most usual wear to synchromesh is on second.

Pre-war cars (and some post-war ones) didn’t have synchromesh on any gears, so changing needs careful timing and a double-declutching technique.

For front-wheel-drive models, find a car park and drive slowly round with the steering on full lock, first in one direction, then the other. All the while, listen for knocking from worn driveshaft joints.

Check for whining in each gear, which means worn bearings – a rebuild will be needed. But if it’s only faint, it probably won’t need attending to for thousands of miles. If the whine is when you back off the accelerator, and comes from the rear end, it’s probably wear in the axle.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES When you’re looking under the car, check for any signs of fluid leaks. Pull back the gaitors on telescopic dampers; sometimes these can be rebuilt, but usually a leak means a replacement pair is needed.

Lever-arm dampers, as fitted to many cars of the 1950s and ’60s, often do leave a light sheen of oil on the damper bodies, but there shouldn’t be any drips of oil.

Brakes should not leave any traces of fluid. Under the car, look at the insides of the wheel rims for signs, plus all around the brake components, and at every pipe and hose joint. Make sure the pipes and hoses aren’t damaged, either.

Look also for scored or rusty brake discs (unless your classic has drum brakes all round). The discs should be smooth, without a lip on the outer edge. Try to peer down the edges of the calipers, to check that the brake-pad friction material is at least as thick as the metal backing.

Still under the car, look out for broken coil and leaf springs, and also for perished rubber bushes on the suspension arms. A tired bush will be cracked around the edges, and might look as though it’s squeezing out of its holder. Check for split or perished rubber gaiters on the steering rack, balljoints and driveshafts. If they’ve been letting in water and dirt, there’s a chance of the component wearing out prematurely.

Finally, take a look at the inside and

Taking time to thoroughly inspect a classic car you are interested in buying could save heartache – and your bank balance – down the line

Whether it’s interior trim or mechanical parts, make sure you know exactly what to look for when researching potential issues

outside edges of the tyres, checking for damage. Note the four-digit code; the first two digits are the week of manufacture (from 01 to 52), the second two are the year. More than ten years old is bad.

With the vehicle off the ground, grab each tyre in turn at top and bottom, and see if you can detect any movement.

Some older models are set up to have a tiny amount of movement in the wheel bearing. Do the same with hands in the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions, too.

Check the level of the brake fluid in its reservoir (careful, it can damage paint). It should look clean. If the level is low, there might be a leak in the system.

Bounce the car up and down at each corner. Any knocks might be down to worn suspension components. The body should settle after one-and-half bounces.

If it doesn’t, the damper is worn.

Move the steering wheel back and forwards, to feel for play. There shouldn’t be any knocks or clonks, and neither should there be free play on any car with a steering rack. Many pre-1970s models used a box instead, which is prone to play – up to a couple of inches at the steering 18 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

wheel. It is worth researching the individual model to find out what’s acceptable. Steering boxes are often over-adjusted to remove play from the straight-ahead position, but this can make the action stiff towards full lock.

When you drive the car, seek out a few bumps and listen for knocks and rattles.

Brake hard from about 20mph, with hands only lightly gripping the steering wheel. It should pull up straight, not veer to one side. And you should be able to lock the wheels on almost any post-war car.

Again, at around 20mph, carefully let go of the steering wheel and see if the vehicle pulls to one side. If the road is flat, the car should continue straight. Anything else might just be due to a flat tyre, but it might be misaligned suspension instead.

INTERIOR Interior parts are notoriously hard to find for all but the most popular classics. Seats can be recovered, but you can get into four figures for a full retrim. Reveneering wood is similarly expensive. A bit of patina is no bad thing, especially on leather seats; hide food will extend their

lives. Meanwhile, wet carpets might be due to leaking door or window seals, or blocked sunroof drains – or caused by a rotten windscreen surround, hidden by the trim. Sometimes, soggy footwells are down to engine coolant leaking from the heater matrix, buried under the dash.

Check all electrics, because problems here can take a long time to solve.

PAPERWORK Does the car need an MoT? Or tax? Not all do. Make sure it has the appropriate documents, and check receipts, servicing records, MoTs etc (viewable online in the UK) to verify mileage records.

Recurring faults often show up through receipts. Regular battery replacements?

Maybe there’s an electrical fault. Tyres? If they’re being replaced unusually regularly, maybe the suspension alignment is wrong, wearing out the rubber unevenly.

Consider doing an HPI check, and if you do buy the car, be sure to ask the seller for a written note of confirmation of sale, with date, vendor’s name and address, vehicle details and price paid. Then go ahead and enjoy your new classic car!

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ADVERTISING FEATURE

Girardo & Co. Only the best will do The collector car sales business founded by former auction head Max Girardo has gone from strength to strength. Here’s why...

WORDS: DAVID LILLYWHITE

PHOTOS: TOM SHAXSON

T

HERE’S A VERY SIMPLE philosophy behind collector car specialist Girardo & Co.: “We don’t ask whether a car is valuable enough; we ask whether it’s the very best example we can find,” explains Max Girardo, who founded the company six years ago after more than a decade working at the very top of the auction game.

“I loved the auction world – I learned so much,” he says. “But I wanted a change, I wanted to set up something bespoke, taking everything I’d learned from auctions and tailoring it to a smaller number of clients.”

Now Girardo & Co. sells around 70 cars a year, dealing in the very best examples of the most exciting post-war classics.

The team has grown, and the company has relocated from West London to much larger premises in rural Oxfordshire, plus a showroom in Turin. Girardo & Co. is now known for stunning displays at shows such as Rétromobile, for its exciting promotional videos and for the very best cars – such as the Group B-onwards rally cars that Max so loves.

“We can really focus on the cars we like,” says Max. “We have more time for the cars and for the clients, and because of that 90-95 percent of our sales are repeat business. Most of our clients are collectors; we can steer and guide them on what to buy next, which is the best one, where’s the collection going. Half of

our work is sourcing specific cars – it’s a much bigger part of our job than we ever thought it would be.”

Where Girardo & Co. really stands out is the time spent researching, initially to ensure that only the very best are sourced, but then to deep-dive into the histories of the cars for sale. If that sounds like a hollow claim, consider that the company bought a little-known archive of more than three million historic motor sport photographs last year, specifically to aid the research.

“We take a lot of pride in our research and preparation,” explains Max. “It’s not just a case of stick it on the website and see how it goes. We find out things people didn’t previously know, and we present the cars in the best possible way.

We find pictures of the cars that no one has previously seen. By the time we have finished, you should see the size of the history files!”

The move to the new Belchers Farm UK premises has helped this enormously.

It allows storage of the archive, more space for the cars, great roads in the surrounding countryside for clients to try their potential purchases, future plans for vehicle storage and ‘cars and coffee’-type meetings, and more room for the team – research is handled by Marcus Willis and Peter Macalpine, media and marketing by Alex Easthope, administration by Cat Bunch and sales by Davide De Giorgi and Max. Girardo & Co. operates on a transparent

‘We take a lot of pride in our research. We find out things people didn’t know, and we present the cars in the best possible way’

percentage basis, without any hidden costs to the car sales, and Max says he’s committed to sticking with only the very best models. “Is it the right year, the right colour, the right condition?” he asks. “We sold a Fiat Jolly – it’s not all about value, but this was the very best out there. Now we have a Jaguar Mk2 – it’s all original, with a full history and its original paint.

It’s really lovely! But we’ve also just sold a Ferrari 275GTB Competizione Clienti with full period competition history.

“The market is healthy, cars are still trading even if prices aren’t going up so quickly any more. In fact, going up is not necessarily healthy. It is ever-evolving, and that’s healthy.”

To find out more about Girardo & Co., visit www.girardo.com, email info@ girardo.com or call +44 203 621 2923.

Max Girardo with the Lancia Beta Montecarlo, LC1 and LC2 sold from the Campion Collection; the Girardo team, right: Marcus, Max, Cat, Peter and Alex. Far right, Davide, Cat and Max in the office

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 21

WHERE TO BUY AND SELL

WHERE TO BUY AND SELL CLASSIC CARS

It should be easy. See a car for sale, visit it, check it over, maybe have it professionally inspected.

Then buy it! But first, you need to think about where to buy it from...

WORDS: DAVID LILLYWHITE PHOTOS: CLASSIC CAR HUB/WILL BROADHEAD AND HISTORICS

S

O MANY CHOICES! NOT JUST of classic cars for sale, but of places to buy them from. The risks vary, which we’ll explain, and the costs vary, too. It’s easy to think you should go for the cheapest option every time, or to leap in without preparation, but it’s equally easy to get badly bitten.

If you’re looking for a classic car that you’re going to keep for years, that’s going to be a part of the family, then it makes no sense to rush in and buy without thinking about possible expensive consequences.

For every victorious tale of a bargain buy, there’s a story of a classic car with sills made of newspaper and plastic filler. So, what comeback is there, and how do you ensure that you don’t become a victim of unscrupulous or misleading sales? A good proportion of the answer is where you buy from in the first place.

PRIVATE SALES

So many ways to purchase a classic; so many things to watch out for.

Whether you buy privately, go via a dealer or take the auction route, do your preparation and make sure you keep a cool head

The advantages are clear: you get to meet the owner and hear the car’s history first-hand while getting a feel for how conscientious they have been. If you’re a bargain hunter, well, this is bargain-hunter territory. But unless you really know your stuff on the specific model, and you’re able to get right under the car and to take it on an extensive test drive, then you’re on a big gamble. A professional assessment will at least lessen that gamble, for a fee.

If you’re sold a pup, you don’t have much comeback. You might be able to claim ‘misrepresentation’, but that’s tough

to prove unless the car was stated to have a particular value-enhancing provenance.

Even then, it’s often difficult to receive compensation from a private individual.

It really is ‘buyer beware’.

DEALER SALES Let’s start by saying that we are talking reputable dealers here. Do your homework – look for online reviews, a long history of advertising and car-show exhibiting, an unsullied record on the Companies House website. If you buy from a dealer that has appeared from nowhere, without any history, then you’re asking for trouble.

You will pay more to buy a car from a reputable outfit. But a good dealer will have bought at a shrewd price, taking the initial risk, so the inevitable mark-up in price might not take the car as far above a private-sale value as you’d expect. Or, the car might be offered on behalf of a client, with the dealer taking a percentage.

When buying from a dealer, you’re protected to some extent by consumerprotection legislation, enforced by the Trading Standards Service. This includes not giving false information, accurate description and having the right to sell.

Richard Wrightson, who is sales and acquisitions manager at The Classic Motor Hub, points out that customers are able to look over a car at leisure in the showroom (pictured top left), while in a private sale the owner might be hovering – and will be less likely to stick to the laws and codes of conduct that apply to CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 23

WHERE TO BUY AND SELL

dealers: “Number one is our reputation,” he says. “All cars go through our workshop and are thoroughly checked, and we write detailed history files and descriptions.”

AUCTIONS The auction world isn’t as simple as it once was. Traditional live sales have for some time been competing with online auctions – and then the pandemic forced the live events to go online, too.

It’s made for an interesting dynamic, as Historics managing director Mark Perkins explains: “The rise in internet bidding has been phenomenal. Over 40 percent of total sales in terms of value went to winning online bidders at our December 2020 auction – and the interaction between those in the auction hall and their online counterparts is fascinating.

We see online bidding energising those who have attended in person, encouraging them to wage battle with the equally worthy, but invisible, internet challengers.”

The appeal of auctions is often the sheer volume of cars available, and the chance of a bargain. But remember the buyer will have to pay a percentage of the sale price, between eight and 15 percent generally, to a traditional auction house, and around

‘Online bidding energises those who’ve attended in person, encouraging them to wage battle with the invisible internet challengers’ five percent typically for online auctions, although some are free to the buyer.

The car descriptions used by auction houses will generally be signed off by the seller, and auction houses aren’t usually able to confirm mechanical condition. It is up to the buyer to check the model over and to take the risk, although misrepresentation can be claimed if a car is found to have been wrongly described in terms of provenance and, to a point, its condition.

Check the auction terms carefully.

Finally, remember that Classic Trader is packed with cars from private sellers, dealers and auction houses.

HOW TO SELL YOUR CLASSIC CAR In an ideal world we would never have to part with our beloved classics, but if it has to be done then make sure you do it right.

Other than the obvious wash and wax, the engine bay and undercarriage should be cleaned. First cover the battery, fuse box, fuel and ignition systems, and alternator with plastic bags.

Minor chips, blown light bulbs and tatty pieces of trim should be sorted out, too.

Paintwork blemishes and evidence of rust should either be patched up or factored into the asking price – body repairs can be costly and time consuming.

Unless you are specifically selling the vehicle because of that blown head gasket or rusty exhaust, make sure the car is in top mechanical condition and that all the fluids are fresh.

Being upfront about any impending service items is important; you would expect the same if you were buying.

Dig out any spare parts and related books, and be prepared to add them to the sale as a final encouragement.

Take good-quality pictures on a sunny day, and if there are dings and dents then include these, too. Nothing puts a buyer off as much as an unexpected ‘surprise’.

Convertibles sell best in the summer months. More exotic vehicles tend to sell better when they are listed close to end-of-year bonus time. Don’t list your car too close to the Christmas period.

Some people will insist on a test drive; be sure to verify their insurance status and see a current driver’s licence.

Always accompany the buyer on the drive. An enjoyable pre-planned route is also a good idea.

If the car does sell, make sure that funds have cleared before handing over the keys.

Buying in person at auction can be exhilarating, but take along an expert for a second opinion

24 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

We suggest preparing a one-page document to be signed by both parties that details the salient points of the transaction, including ‘sold as seen’.

THE COMPLETE AUCTION EXPERIENCE

WHETHER BUYING OR SELLING, TALK TO US FIRST

YOUR CLASSIC CAR AUCTION SPECIALIST IN-HALL AND With our auctions full to bursting with a variety of fine classics, plus flourishing results, ONLINE a consistently high rate of sale and an award-winning reputation for customer care, WE GIVE YOU Historics delivers an exceptional experience. So when the time comes to buy or sell THE CHOICE your classic car, talk to us first. You’ll receive honest, impartial and professional guidance

from one enthusiast to another with free valuations and attractive commission rates, all wrapped up in good old-fashioned courtesy and friendship.

2021 UK AUCTION CALENDAR Ascot Racecourse Windsorview Lakes Mercedes-Benz World Mercedes-Benz World 27th November 15th May 17th July 25th September Visit the website for details of all entries in our next sale and how to bid, in-hall, online and by phone

+44 (0) 1753 639170 auctions@historics.co.uk www.historics.co.uk

IN-HALL ONLINE

BUY I NG A PR E -WA R C L A S SIC

BUYING A PRE-WAR CLASSIC CAR For maximum character and charm, you could try something built before World War Two. Here are some of the more unusual features to look out for

26 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

WORDS: DAVID LILLYWHITE PHOTOS: MAGIC CAR PICS

how the likes of Colin Chapman and Bruce McLaren started their careers.

Similarly, even in the UK there’s a strong following for America’s equivalent of the Austin 7, the Model T Ford. That’s a more acquired taste with its mindboggling epicycle transmission, but once learned you’ll be a convert to its goanywhere capabilities. Later pre-war American Fords are similarly tough but a little easier to adapt to.

At the other end of the popular prewar spectrum are the Vintage Bentleys that you’ll still see charging down to Le Mans, gung-ho owners bullying modern hatchbacks out of the way on the autoroute. What a sight to behold! As for Sevens and Model Ts, Bentley specialists and spares are relatively easy to obtain.

Riley, MG and Alvis are also well served by excellent specialists, and it’s even possible to buy a new continuation Alvis model (as it is with Bentley). At the thoroughbred end of the scale, Alfa Romeo models are extremely well served.

What they almost all have in common is over-engineering. Weight and efficiency was less of a factor, so heavy-gauge metal and hefty fasteners were the default.

Bodywork was often built around a wooden (usually ash) frame, sat on a crude ladderframe chassis with enough flex that its movement contributes as much to the ride as does the suspension – which is generally by leaf springs and lever-arm dampers.

Generally, you’ll find that spares are more difficult to come by for the majority of pre-war classic cars, but because

So much fun! From MGs to Bentleys, owning a pre-war classic opens up a multitude of exciting events and opportunities

BENTLEY

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HILE WE HAVE concentrated on some of the more popular classic cars of the 1950s and 1960s-on for our 50 buying guides, that’s not to say we don’t love our pre-war models. If you think a post-war classic has bags of character, just wait until you try something built before the 1940s.

They are usually more challenging to drive than almost anything post-war, with quirky features a-plenty: nonsynchromesh transmissions, manually adjusted ignition timing on the steering wheel, hand-cranked engine starters and often hand-operated brakes. They occasionally even have centre throttles (accelerator pedal located between the clutch and brake pedals).

What’s common to all of them is that you’ll really feel you’re driving them.

Everything seems so mechanical and direct that the sensation of driving is more intense and ultimately more enjoyable in many ways. Some pre-war models are painfully slow, with ineffectual brakes and a tendency to overheat in traffic. But don’t tar them all with that brush, or even worry about it too much – if you’re not planning on going far then it might not be a problem.

Many cars are genuinely fast; and with a bit of steering play, an open cockpit and a roaring exhaust, they feel even quicker than they actually are. They bounce around the road with hilarious aplomb, cornering faster than you’d ever expect, and utilising massive drum brakes to pull them to a reasonably abrupt halt. Mr Toad, eat your heart out!

The massive variety of marques and models is one reason why we didn’t select a pre-war car for one of the 50 buying guides, but there are a few that stand out in popularity in this sector. The Austin Seven is the obvious starting point: tiny, even in later ‘Big Seven’ form, relatively affordable and plentiful, with strong spares availability and even a healthy racing scene. Special-bodied Sevens are

Cars built before WW2 are usually more challenging to drive than their later counterparts, with plenty of quirky features

‘Trialling up hills, hillclimbing, sprints, racing, rallying... there’s so much you can do with a pre-war car’

manufacturing techniques were more basic, many parts can be replicated by an average machine shop today. There’s no injection-moulded plastic here.

There will be challenges to learn, particularly keeping rod- and cableoperated brakes finely adjusted and staying on top of thermo-syphon cooling systems.

Engine rebuilds might involve working with white-metal bearings, which need to be scraped to achieve the correct tolerances, although many motors are converted to shell bearings when they’re rebuilt.

If you’re looking at a pre-war car, do examine the chassis for cracks, rust and damage. If the body is wood-framed then try to look for rot (much of it will be covered) or signs that the body is flexing too much due to weakened wood (cracks in the metalwork, for example). If it’s a fabric body, look for damage and cracks which might indicate that the material has aged badly. Oil leaks from the engine and transmission are common – if they look serious, check with a marque expert. If

provenance is important, try to establish whether the bodywork is original or a later addition/change, particularly with thoroughbreds such as Bentleys.

Perhaps because there’s more to learn with a pre-war car, the sense of community tends to be greater – and nowhere is that more obvious than in the Vintage Sports-Car Club, with its many separate model registers and its brilliant meetings. If you’re not entirely sold yet, then head to the VSCC Vintage Prescott event when you can. Take the family – that’s what it’s all about.

And if the car you’re interested in isn’t eligible for the VSCC (broadly pre-1931, but for certain cars 1908-’41), there are still plenty of supportive clubs and exciting events. There’s so much you can do with a pre-war car, whether it’s trialling up muddy hills, hillclimbing and sprints, racing, rallying or simply just bumbling down to the pub to meet fellow owners.

Take the pre-war classic car plunge.

You’re unlikely to regret it.

BUYING GUIDE

1963-1977

Alfa Romeo Giulia 105 Series The 1960s coupé combines stylish good looks with an athletic chassis to become a highly desirable sports car

I

F YOU BELIEVE ALFA ROMEO ownership is essential for any selfrespecting petrolhead, then buying a classic example surely earns the highest automotive-anorak rating. If you wish to experience the soaring highs and crushing lows of this emotive Italian brand, the stunning 105 Series coupé is a fantastic place to start your journey.

Introduced in 1963, the Alfa Giulia Sprint GT was thoroughly updated over its predecessor. It had body styling by Giorgetto Giugiaro, and a twin-cam 1.6-litre engine mated to a new fivespeed manual gearbox. A Giulia Sprint GTC convertible by Touring followed, but the carrozzeria closed after only 1000 units had been built, making

these variants very rare and desirable.

From 1965-on, the Sprint GT Veloce offered a more upmarket alternative to the basic Sprint GT, while a minor power boost boosted performance. Even more muscle was to come in the form of the 1750 and, later, the 2000 GT Veloce. At the other end of the sporty coupé line-up were the eminently capable GT Juniors.

The rare and even more focused GTA models featured aluminium body panels and updated engines. These are so special and so often faked, they require extra vigilance in addition to the information contained in this guide.

The balanced handling and easily tunable twin-cams made these cars sought after in their day. Rust has claimed

MAGIC CAR PICS

GTA 1300 Junior shows off the early stepnose

This 1750GTV interior is typical of the range; replacing missing interior parts can really add up

30 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

Touring-styled GTC convertible is very rare

‘The Giulia still has a hugely enthusiastic following. Numerous clubs and specialists are dedicated to keeping them alive’

many Giulias over the years, rendering surviving models all the more desirable.

ENGINE Regardless of the variant, all Giulias have an alloy twin-cam four-cylinder engine in various capacities. They also came with twin carburettors, although later US-spec GTVs had fuel injection. Timing chains and tappets can get noisy, so if they do not quieten down after a few minutes do carry out a closer inspection. The alloy cylinder heads can be troublesome, and head gaskets have been known to blow. The most obvious sign is a mayonnaise-like paste under the radiator cap.

The carbs require periodic adjustment, yet other than needing regular servicing,

these twin-cams are very strong. The SPICA fuel injection may require specialist attention to get right, but it works well when correctly set up. Mechanical parts in general are widely available, too.

Few cars have remained standard, and the parts compatibility across models means many 1.3 and 1.6-litre examples may now be fitted with the larger 2.0 GTV units or even Alfa 75 Twin Spark engines.

If originality is not your aim, make sure the modifications were done by a reputable specialist – there are plenty available.

GEARBOX Unusual for the time, the five-speeder was praised for its good shift quality. The throws are quite long, but if there is

baulking (especially from first to second), the synchros may need replacing. Notchy reverse may mean a damaged selector fork.

A limited-slip diff was standard only on the 2000 GTV, although some cars may have had these retrofitted. Clutches stand up well to fast road driving, and post-1967 cars had hydraulic assistance. If track use will be a part of your Giulia experience, upgraded components are a must.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The Giulia suspension is robust, and modern dampers and fresh bushes can make for a sweet-handling car. A recall early on in production resolved an issue in the front set-up, where the lower wishbones could seize. While this issue is unlikely to

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 31

ALFA ROMEO GIULIA MODEL HISTORY 1963: 105 Series Sprint GT introduced with 103bhp 1.6-litre twin-cam four and five-speed manual ’box. Bertone styling with distinctive ‘stepnose’ bonnet 1964: Giulia GTC cabriolet introduced.

Running gear based on GT. 1000 built 1965: 80bhp 1.3-litre Giulia GT 1300 Junior 1966: 106bhp Sprint GT Veloce replaces GT, with updated interior and slightly more power. Giulia GT Junior released

affect surviving cars, it does highlight the need for regular maintenance.

The brakes are discs all round, and seized calipers and servos on cars that have been standing a long time can be common.

BODYWORK A major Giulia issue is its propensity to dissolve into a heap of rust if not properly cared for. Certain panels, especially on earlier cars, are hard to find, too.

The first batch of rebadged Sprints are the worst affected, but all 105 Series cars need to be thoroughly examined; a rotten body can make resurrection financially unviable. Finding new panels for the rare GTC and Junior Z can be even trickier than sourcing parts for the base models.

Be wary of fresh resprays, because they may hide botched repairs. The usual hotspots such as the arches, footwells, sills, doors and screen surround should merely be a starting point when assessing a Giulia. Lift it up to inspect the jacking points, suspension mounts and firewall.

INTERIOR The trim may need a refresh on all but the most pampered cars. While most cabin parts can be sourced, a lot of missing items will be expensive to replace.

The Giulias were not plagued by the electrical issues for which some Alfas have been notorious. Most issues can usually be traced to poor earthing or corroded switches. Intermittent problems

32 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

tend to occur from damaged wiring, which can be labour intensive to rectify.

WHICH ALFA ROMEO GIULIA TO BUY Production may have ended over four decades ago, but the Giulia still has a hugely enthusiastic following. Numerous clubs and specialists are dedicated to keeping these sporty coupés on the road.

Don’t be scared off by mechanically tired cars if the body is in good condition; the running gear is far more cost effective to sort out than a rusty shell. Make friends with a classic Alfa specialist, as a professionally checked and maintained car is much more enjoyable to drive than a neglected one. There are plenty of highly modified track and road cars out there, but if you’re looking for a fast road machine as the factory intended, the 1750 GTV and 2000 GTV give the biggest thrills.

Most Giulias were left-hand drive, and the GT 1300 Juniors and early Sprint GTs were the most numerous. Collectors value the rare GTC convertibles and Junior Zs. Even so, the base 1300 Junior’s sweetness and balance make it a great little classic.

The information for this guide was provided by renowned Alfa Romeo specialist Alfaholics. Classic Trader recommends it as a trusted source for restoration, servicing, parts and sales.

Fair: £18,700 Good: £23,100 Excellent: £32,900 Concours: £47,300 (1750 GTV)

1967: 120bhp 1750 GT Veloce is torquier than 1.6 GTV. US cars get SPICA injection.

‘Stepnose’ bonnet goes, chassis upgraded 1969: Limited-edition 1.3-litre Junior Z introduced with Zagato body. 1108 built 1970: 1750 GT body updates for GT Junior 1971: 130bhp 2000 GTV replaces 1750 GTV and is available in US (fuel injection only). GT 1600 Junior sits alongside GT 1300 Junior; replaces it in UK 1972: 1600 Junior Z replaces 1.3. 402 built 1974: Final year of US GTV imports. GT Junior rebranded to 1.3 and 1.6 GT Junior; share much cabin spec with 2000 GTV 1976: 2000 GTV production ends 1977: All Giulia production ends

SPECIFICATIONS 1.3-litre GT Junior Power: 80bhp Top speed: 100mph 0-60mph: 12.6 seconds Economy: 30mpg 1.75-litre 1750 GTV Power: 120bhp Top speed: 115mph 0-60mph: 10.5 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

2.0-litre 2000 GTV Power: 130bhp Top speed: 120mph 0-60mph: 9.7 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

SYON Redesigned as a fully Covid-compliant event, The London Classic Car Show is the must-attend event for any discerning classic car owner, collector or enthusiast.

The capital’s most exclusive gathering will be celebrating ‘The Evolution of Design’ and will take classic car lovers on a magical journey through 135 years of automotive innovation.

As well as offering you the chance to meet top dealers, a host of Classic Car exhibitors, stunning displays, features, a Talks Theatre and Car Clubs! Join us at the Classic Car Season Opener, set in the stunning grounds of Syon Park.

Centenary Year of the

Bugatti Brescia

100th Birthday of the

Lancia Lambda

60 Years of the

Jaguar E-type

BUYING GUIDE

1966-1993

Alfa Romeo Spider From its starring role in The Graduate to its eventual demise in the 1990s, this Italian spots car proved a hit on both sides of the Atlantic. It still turns heads today

T

of which were considered advanced technologies for a 1960s sports car.

The Spider was the last model to be produced based on the Giulia 105 chassis. The first examples also featured the aluminium twin-cam 1.6-litre fourcylinder engine from the Giulia GTV coupé. This revvy little motor produced 109bhp, which was a respectable figure for the day. In 1967, the Spider’s engine and suspension were updated and the Duetto name was dropped.

The car became the 1750 Spider Veloce, paying tribute to the 1750 Super Sport of the 1930s. The following year saw the release of the 1300 Spider Junior model,

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE STORY OF THE ALFA Romeo Spider began in 1966 with the release of the Duetto (boat-tail) model. The car was produced for nearly three decades in a variety of specifications. With its curvaceous bodywork and enclosed headlights, the original Series 1 is often referenced as the most desirable and beautiful of the bunch.

However, this lightweight, Pininfarinadesigned roadster wasn’t simply a case of style over substance. It had a monocoque construction, independent front suspension, disc brakes all round and a five-speed manual gearbox – all

Alfa quality can be questionable, so check for broken or missing trim and that all electrics work

34 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘With its curvaceous body styling and enclosed headlights, original Series 1 is often referenced as the most desirable’

which was fitted with an 89bhp 1.3-litre four-cylinder powerplant.

Alfa’s Series 1 Spider got a very positive reception after its release, and was popularised via a starring role as Dustin Hoffman’s car in 1967’s The Graduate.

It received its only major styling update in 1970, when the Series 2 model was released. The newcomer was known as the Kamm Tail, owing to the fact that the curvaceous rear end of the original had been replaced by a slabbier but more aerodynamic version.

The Series 2 models also got a revised grille, more raked windscreen and interior refresh. A year after the release of the Series 2 the car also received a new 1962cc 132bhp engine, and it was now

known as the 2000 Spider Veloce.

In 1983 the Series 3 was released.

This was largely the same as the car it replaced, but a new Bosch fuel-injection system superseded the previous set-up.

The outside also continued with muchmaligned rubber bumpers to comply with American safety regulations.

In 1990/91 the Series 4 was released, Alfa Romeo’s final Spider. This continued the incremental visual updates with bodycoloured bumpers and new rear lights.

The interior got a final update with the addition of air-conditioning as a rare option and standard leather seats. S4s also got power steering and the option of a three-speed automatic transmission.

However, these modernities couldn’t hide

the car’s antiquated underpinnings, and so production ended in 1993.

The Spider may never have sold in the same quantities as its British equivalent, the MGB, but its elegant Pininfarina design means it has maintained a strong following through to this day.

ENGINE The car should start relatively easily and idle at approximately 800rpm. Water temperature should not exceed around 80°C. The oil-pressure gauge needle should sit at about halfway at idle.

When the engine is running, it shouldn’t sound too tappety. Any unusual noises from the tappets or top of the unit warrant a check-over. On carburetted engines the

rubber mounts can crack and perish. This can be diagnosed by lightly pulling the carburettor upwards; if the revs increase, then the mounts will need renewing. The original rubber mounts can be replaced with aftermarket aluminium versions quite easily; Alfaholics sells these for £99.

Make sure the engine’s head is not leaking – either oil out, or water in. To see whether water is leaking into the head, unscrew the oil-filler cap and check for any emulsification or condensation. If an oil leak is present, it usually manifests itself underneath the head or carburettor.

Next, look at the engine’s mounts. They shouldn’t be sagging, and there should be decent clearance between the engine and the chassis crossmember. Check that no CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 35

brake fluid is leaking from the servos located at the top right-hand side of the engine bay; the diaphragms in them can perish, leading to a build-up of fluid and a leak. The final place to look for leaks is the various hoses snaking around the engine bay. Finally, chain slap from the front of the cam cover is reasonably common and can be adjusted with relative ease.

GEARBOX The transmission has a long throw, but it should feel smooth and go into gear with ease. The synchromesh on second and reverse ratios tends to wear out first, so pay particular attention to these on your test drive. Any crunching or grinding indicates that they’re on their way out.

If the car pops out of gear this is also a clue that the synchros are worn, but this can be caused by the leather shift boot simply bunching up and prohibiting the ratio from slotting in properly. A knocking sound from the centre console while moving is usually caused by the propshaft.

The mounting has a rubber doughnut that can perish over time; failure of this can cause big problems, so do be vigilant.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The steering should feel light and accurate. If it feels heavy, the steering box could be leaking fluid/cracked. There is an inspection cover on the box, so have a look under it and check there is still fluid inside. If this is low or absent it can be

36 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

refilled, but a replacement box is definitely the best solution for a recurring leak.

During your test drive, the car should feel nimble and poised. If it seems wallowy and imprecise, there could be underlying suspension issues. These can be caused by worn bushes, misaligned components or blown shock absorbers. The set-up is relatively easy to sort out if there are issues, and many aftermarket suppliers offer upgraded parts.

The all-round disc brakes have no issues stopping the lightweight Spider, and these are very impressive for a 1960s sports car.

Shuddering under braking could mean the discs are warped, while a sinking pedal is usually symptomatic of a leaking master cylinder – or brake servo on later cars.

BODYWORK Rust is a well documented problem that blights Alfas of this vintage, so it’s very important to check the integrity of the bodywork and locate any corrosion. The first place to look is under the wheelarches, sills plus front and rear valances. The sills are often repaired because of rust problems, so if this is the case don’t be scared to get underneath and check that the work has been done properly. Drain holes near the foldable roof often get blocked and cause the sills and wing bottoms to rot.

Check that panel gaps are uniform, because poorly aligned bodywork points towards sub-standard accident repairs. A good place to look for this is between the

‘Every series of the Alfa Spider retains its ’60s DNA, and each will offer an excellent and stylish classic sports car experience’ door bottom and the sill. If there’s no seam here, any repair work has been done to a high standard, if it’s been carried out at all.

Lift the carpets and check the floor for rust. There are two corrugated plastic scuttle drains that run above the footwells.

When these crack they can leak water into the cabin, causing corrosion. The last cars had rubber scuttle drains, which are not predisposed to this problem, so if you purchase an earlier example it’s a good idea to replace the original plastic items with the later rubber ones.

Finally, check the condition of the roof.

Soft-tops in poor condition can be replaced but the work will cost around £500, so factor that into negotiations if the example you are looking at has a tired roof. The top should fit tightly, and should have a metal clip at the bottom sitting flush with the window. If this is missing, the roof will leak.

BUYING GUIDE

SPECIFICATIONS 1.3-litre inline four Power: 89bhp Top speed: 108mph 0-60mph: 13.0 seconds Economy: 29mpg 1.6-litre inline-four Power: 109bhp Top speed: 115mph 0-60mph: 11.3 seconds Economy: 28mpg 1.7-litre inline four Power: 122bhp Top speed: 114mph 0-60mph: 9.9 seconds Economy: 26mpg 2.0-litre inline four Power: 132bhp Top speed: 122mph 0-60mph: 9.2 seconds Economy: 25mpg

ALFA ROMEO SPIDER MODEL HISTORY 1966: Series 1 Spider launches as Duetto with 1600cc engine and rounded tail 1967: Duetto model discontinued 1968: SPICA mechanical fuel injection introduced in US. Engine enlarged to 1750cc. Last year of covered headlights 1969: Last year of rounded-tail Spiders.

Covered headlight kits come in boot 1970: Series 2 arrives. New Kamm Tail.

Windscreen has more rake. Chrome bumpers and grille revised 1971: New 2000cc engine. Looks same as before. Last year of steel wheels 1973: New alloys. Fresh trim for chrome bumpers. Rear lights mounted in valance 1974: 2000cc SPICA engine available in US. Last year of chrome bumpers in US 1975: New rubber bumpers. Restrictive manifold and engines detuned to meet stricter emissions standards. Plastic grille 1977: Carpet replaces rubber mats

Spider’s styling was gradually updated across four generations

INTERIOR Most European-specification models are fitted with wooden steering wheels. These are very aesthetically pleasing but can crack, so check for damage. They can be repaired or replaced at a cost. Some cars built for hotter climates had leatherwrapped steering wheels, which are not prone to this issue.

When it comes to the interiors of Alfas during the Spider’s era, quality is somewhat questionable. Consequently, you should check for broken or missing trim pieces.

Ensure that the electrics all work properly, the seat bolsters aren’t unduly worn and the roof raises and lowers easily.

WHICH ALFA ROMEO SPIDER TO BUY The consensus of enthusiasts today is that the 1972-78 2.0-litre Spider is the sweet

spot of the car’s lineage. It retains much of the classic 1960s styling, while getting the torquier and more powerful engine. Later examples are more modern and refined, but they lose some characterful Alfa Romeo quirks, particularly in the interior.

The earliest and the very last cars are expensive, so that is another reason a 1970s model is a good one to go for when looking for your Spider. That said, every series of this Alfa Romeo retains its ’60s DNA, and each will offer an excellent and stylish classic sports car experience.

The information for this guide was provided by renowned Alfa Romeo specialist Alfaholics. Classic Trader recommends it as a trusted source for restoration, servicing, parts and sales.

Fair: £9300 Good: £14,800 Excellent: £23,200 Concours: £32,700 (S2 2000)

1978: Last year for classic door panels and lower centre console. Niki Lauda Edition with rear spoiler and body stripes 1979: New chrome grille, centre console and seats, door pockets added 1982: New Spider Veloce. Bosch injection replaces SPICA. New variable valve timing and wheels. Electric windows, mirrors and air-con. Centre console redesigned again. Cloth replaces vinyl for roof 1983: Series 3 Spider Veloce launched.

Rubber bumpers more integrated. Updated taillights. New Bosch L-Jetronic injection 1985: Base Spider Graduate named after 1967 movie. Veloce spec but no luxury features. Leather trim for Spider Veloce 1986: Spider Quadrifoglio with stiffer springs, red carpet and removable hardtop 1991: Series 4 arrives. Veloce now top car as Quadrifoglio discontinued. Bumpers now body coloured. Rear lights revised.

Bosch Motronic ECU supplies diagnostics 1993: Spider finishes long production run CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 37

BUYING GUIDE

1958-1970

Aston Martin DB4, 5 & 6

Arguably the greatest GT trio ever, these David Brown-era icons are among the most recognisable classics around – and each passing year makes them more desirable

E

of which were carried over to the DB5 when it arrived in 1963.

While the DB5 may have been visually similar to its forebear, detail enhancements under the skin helped keep it one step ahead of the competition. Most notably, the engine was bored out to 4.0 litres and triple carbs were now standard, the manual gearbox gained an extra ratio after the first few units were built, and the interior was more luxurious, too. Although production numbers for the DB4 and DB5 were both very similar (not much more than 1000 units each), the eye-watering values that the latter models command can in part be ascribed to the star factor garnered from being the favoured mode of transport for the world’s most recognisable ‘secret’ agent.

The DB6 took over in 1965, just two years after the DB5 was launched, and while it benefited from the incremental

ASTON MARTIN, MAGIC CAR PICS

VERY LONG-RUNNING CAR manufacturer has a model in its back catalogue with which most people identify. For Aston Martin, that car is undeniably the DB5 and its two similarly alluring sidekicks, the DB4 and DB6. Introduced in 1958, the DB4 was a quantum leap on from the DB2/4 models that preceded it. From the newly developed Tadek Marek 3.7-litre inline-six to the Italian Superleggera bodyconstruction technique, this latest grand tourer was altogether a new kind of Aston.

The DB4 may have been marketed as a GT, but its on-track exploits in the hands of some of the period’s most celebrated drivers proved that this was far more than a soft boulevard cruiser. More powerful Vantage variants and drophead coupés were introduced, and a number of enhancements were developed during the relatively short production run – many

updates (and the no-cost option of the Vantage-specification engine), rivals such as Jaguar were now pulling ahead in key areas. The Superleggera construction technique made way for a more traditional body-on-frame structure, this design change being needed to accommodate the elongated tail that added high-speed stability. While the kerbweight was not much higher, the longer wheelbase and higher roofline did not look quite as resolved as on its DB5 predecessor.

The eventual introduction of standard power steering, optional air-conditioning and the additional rear passenger space clearly showed that the DB6 was embracing the grand-tourer philosophy wholeheartedly. Despite being produced in far greater numbers (1788 in total), these variants are often considered to be the least desirable of the three – but such things should be taken in context. Over 50 years have passed since the last DB6 rolled off the production line, and few people will be concerned about whether it matches up to its contemporary rivals in a drag race, or if it can corner with the same alacrity around a racetrack.

Viewed in a modern context, each DB variant boasts its own unique driving experience, with the earlier DB4s being more visceral and engaging, and the later DB6s having a more luxurious and relaxed demeanour. The DB5 offers a good balance of these two traits, while the Vantage versions of either model add a bit more power into the mix.

ENGINE

DB5’s interior exhibits same restrained elegance as stablemates, and all use quality materials

38 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

The basic motor design was used across all three DB models. The earlier 3.7-litre units in the DB4 were prone to overheating,

‘The DB4 was a quantum leap on from the DB2/4 that preceded it. The latest GT was altogether a new kind of Aston’

A number of enhancements were developed during DB4’s relatively short production run – many of which were carried over when DB5 arrived

and while improved oil cooling was introduced be sure to check for any signs of cracked heads and oil/water mixing in the radiator. The DB5 saw a capacity increase to 4.0 litres, and the DB6 used the same engine with the option to upgrade to the more powerful (but less tractable) Vantage-specification engine at no cost.

Desmond J Smail has been an Aston specialist for 40 years. He says checking the timing-chain condition by looking at the angle of the adjuster in the middle of the front of the head is important, as is replacement at 60,000 miles. He also suggests checking that the oil pressure is above 65 degrees at 3000rpm once warm.

Twin SU carbs were first used, moving to triple SUs on the DB4 Vantage, DB5 and DB6. The higher-performance variants including the DB4 GT (which also had twin-spark plugs) and later Vantage used triple Webers. A small batch of DB6s were offered with fuel injection, but many have been converted back to carbs. Many owners have modified their standard engines to Vantage spec, but not all have the factory examples’ period-correct camshaft, larger valves and triple-Webers.

GEARBOX DB4s came fitted with a four-speed manual as standard, while a ZF-sourced five-speed unit was introduced early on in DB5 production. Both ’boxes need to be warmed up before they can give their

40 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

best; a loose and sloppy lever or failure to stay in gear generally indicate excessive wear, and both layshaft bearings and synchros do eventually wear out. With a variety of differential ratios offered over the years, it is worth checking which one your potential purchase is fitted with.

A Borg-Warner three-speed automatic gearbox was offered as well. It was introduced late in DB4 production and then updated for the DB6, but it didn’t prove to be a popular option. These are robust units, but watch out for jerky or delayed gearchanges when on a test drive.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The suspension set-up changed very little over the years. An independent system comprising all-round coil springs with ball-jointed wishbones up front and a live axle at the rear did duty across all three variants. Regular lubrication should keep the system in fine fettle; 2500-mile intervals are recommended, although with many cars taking years to cover this distance, seized dampers and perished rubber bushes are par for the course.

The DB4s were fitted with four-wheel Dunlop disc brakes, which were upgraded to a Girling set-up later in production.

Crossply tyres were available very early on, but just about every car on the road today will have radials. Steering can be on the heavy side unless you have a DB6 fitted with power steering.

‘DB4 may have been marketed as a GT, but its on-track exploits proved that this was far more than a soft boulevard cruiser’ BODYWORK The DB4 and DB5 shared much in terms of their Superleggera tube-frame body construction. The rigid steel structure is clad in aluminium panels, providing a stiff but light structure. This complex layout can be the perfect breeding ground for rust and corrosion, especially in poorly repaired cars. Modern restoration techniques can often yield far better results than what the factory was capable of all those years ago, so take a long look in common rust-prone areas such as the arches, sills and boot floors.

When it came to the DB6, the model reverted to a more conventional body-onframe construction, which was necessary to incorporate the new Kamm tail. While this layout is slightly less complex, rust is as much of an issue as before. Many cars have undergone some level of restoration,

DB5 was visually similar to DB4, but detail modifications under skin – including rebore to 4.0 litres – helped keep it one step ahead of competition

but not all are to the lofty standards you would expect, so it is highly recommended that you employ the services of a marque specialist to thoroughly examine any potential purchase.

INTERIOR The interiors are a lesson in restrained elegance. Various luxuries were introduced over the years, but all upholstery and trim parts are relatively straightforward to restore – albeit at a price.

Corroded connections and frayed wiring can dog the electronics. Slow power windows may simply need a mechanism clean, and if you have a later DB6s with optional air-con, check that all is in order.

WHICH ASTON MARTIN DB4, DB5 OR DB6 TO BUY Spanning 13 years and numerous updates and modifications, the DB4, DB5 and DB6 range from two-seater, track-ready racers to civilised, four-seater motorway cruisers with all the luxury and style you could expect from a 1960s grand tourer. Recently revealed continuations such as the DB4 GT Zagato and DB5 Goldfinger have helped introduce a new generation of fans to these special cars, and values are high across the board. Somewhat surprisingly, though, there are still a number of poorly maintained and unsympathetically restored examples.

Service history is crucial here.

Desmond reckons the best cars to buy

From top: DB4 GT and even rarer DB4 GT Zagato are among the most collectable of the genre.

Drop-top Volante variants also command a large premium

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 41

ASTON MARTIN DB4, DB5 AND DB6 MODEL HISTORY 1958: DB4 introduced, featuring 240bhp 3.7-litre inline-six, four-speed manual and lightweight Superleggera body design 1959: Limited-edition short-wheelbase DB4 GT with 302bhp engine, enclosed headlights and thinner-gauge bodywork released; 74 cars built, as well as 19 Zagato-modified vehicles and a one-off model called Bertone Jet DB6 values are lower, but don’t expect any bargains; even a bad example will sell for £150,000

are ones that have already been restored by a reputable specialist, and a full roadtest report is always advisable. A proper restoration can cost £250,000-£350,000; factor this in if you’re looking for a project.

Matching-numbers models are highly regarded in the classic car world, but Desmond says this isn’t always the case here. In the 1960s, ’70s and ’80s owners were able to buy factory-rebuilt engines from Aston Martin, but no records were kept of the updated serial numbers.

DB5 prices are now well into the stratosphere, with the DB4 close behind.

The more numerous DB6 still trails, but don’t expect to find a bargain; even a poor one will sell for £150,000. Desmond says the DB6 Mk2 Vantage and Volantes are among the best sorted of all. Vantages command a premium over the standard cars, drophead coupés even more so, while specials such as the shooting brakes and Zagato DB4s have now hit seven figures.

Adding one of these Astons to your collection will give you instant access to the heady world of classic 1960s performance cars at the turn of a key.

To many, this era was the marque’s finest.

Desmond J Smail and fellow specialist Nicholas Mee provided the technical details for this article. We recommend them for all your Aston needs.

Fair: £416,100 Good: £540,000 Excellent: £690,000 Concours: £910,000 (DB5) 42 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Adding one of these Aston Martin models to your collection will give you instant access to the heady world of classic 1960s performance cars at the turn of a key’

1960: Series II models get larger sump and front-hinged bonnet 1961: Series III cars get thinner body panels, better heating, triple rear lights and option of overdrive. Series IV models can be optioned with a 266bhp Vantage engine, and all cars feature an oil cooler.

Convertible variant made available 1962: Series V examples are longer by 3.5 inches, and wheel diameter drops from 16 to 15 inches 1963: DB4 production ends with a total of 1204 cars built. DB5 takes over and introduces numerous changes, including 282bhp 4.0-litre engine with triple SU carbs. Five-speed ZF transmission introduced after first batch of cars (approximately 90) are built

SPECIFICATIONS

1964: 325bhp Vantage engine offered

3.7-litre inline-six (DB4) Power: 240bhp Top speed: 140mph 0-60mph: 9.3 seconds Economy: 17.7mpg

1965: DB5 ceases production, with 1059 cars built including 123 dropheads and 13 shooting brakes. DB6 released with traditional body-on-frame construction and Kamm-tail design. 325bhp Vantage engine offered as no-cost option.

Volante model launched, based on DB5 but with DB6 styling elements; 37 built

4.0-litre inline-six (DB5) Power: 282bhp Top speed: 145mph 0-60mph: 8.1 seconds Economy: 15mpg (est.)

4.0-litre inline-six (DB6 Vantage spec) Power: 325bhp Top speed: 155mph 0-60mph: 7.0 seconds Economy: 15mpg (est.)

1966: Updated DB6 Volante introduced; 140 units built, 29 of them with Vantagespecification engines 1969: Mk2 version announced, offering limited-slip differential, wider tyres and option of fuel injection 1970: Production ends, with 1788 DB6 models built

C O N S U LT T H E E X P E R T S For expert advice and confidential discussion on the current value of any Aston Martin, our highly experienced and knowledgeable team are on hand to assist.

Outright purchase or consignment, we are pleased to provide our expert opinion on values and the most satisfactory route to market.

Above is a selection of Aston Martins sold in the first quarter of 2021.

CAR SALES & PURCHASES, SERVICING & MAINTENANCE, RESTORATION, PARTS & MERCHANDISE, TRIM & UPHOLSTERY, TRANSPORTATION & STORAGE

Nicholas Mee & Co Ltd, Essendonbury Farm, Hatfield Park Estate, Hertfordshire, AL9 6AF 0208 741 8822 info@nicholasmee.co.uk nicholasmee.co.uk

BUYING GUIDE

1969-1989

Aston Martin V8 and V8 Vantage Big, brutish and powerful, the venerable V8 still offers sports car performance allied with grand-touring luxury

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during the same year the six-cylinder DBS was also dropped. The DBS V8 was renamed as the Aston Martin V8 (referred to as Series 2 cars), and it received Bosch fuel injection as well as twin headlights.

The following year saw a move back to Webers, necessitating a taller bonnet scoop to clear the four two-barrel carbs.

The Series 3 remained in production until 1978 (with a hiatus during 1975), and received minor visual changes. Emissions regulations – especially in the US – gradually strangled outputs, with power falling to 288bhp for certain 1976 models.

Detail modifications attempted to remedy this, and for 1977 the AM V8 was up to 305bhp. However, that year’s big news was the introduction of the Aston

ASTON MARTIN

S IMPOSING AS ASTON Martin’s DBS must have looked when it was launched in 1967, development issues saw it saddled with the same inline-six that was still doing duty in the ageing DB6.

Few customers saw it as a big step up from its lighter and more classically styled predecessors, but that all changed in 1969 when the updated DBS V8 was launched.

Fitted with the 5.3-litre eight-cylinder engine it was originally meant to have, the DBS V8 now boasted the power to back up those muscular looks. With 320bhp on tap, even the power-sapping optional three-speed auto was capable of serious acceleration. In 1972, David Brown sold Aston to Company Developments, and

Refurbed cabins are common, while corroded contacts are usual cause of any electrical issues

4 4 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

Martin V8 Vantage. Hailed by many as the first British supercar, it put out 390bhp from its modified 5.3-litre powerplant and boasted a 170mph top speed. Visual differences to the standard V8 included a blanked-off bonnet bulge and twin driving lights, and the Series 4 Oscar India version introduced the following year got a ‘tea tray’-styled rear spoiler and smoother bonnet bulge. Almost all were fitted with a five-speed manual transmission.

For some, even 390bhp wasn’t enough, so aside from a number of aftermarket options customers could also spec a factorydeveloped X-Pack from 1986-on, pushing power up to 403bhp. An even more potent 450bhp 6.3-litre engine was offered from the factory, too. A few ‘cosmetic’ Vantages

‘If you’re after a bit of 1980s nostalgia, any well maintained V8 will do the trick.

Just go for the best you can afford’

were also built for the US, which had everything but the more powerful engine.

Meanwhile, the standard V8 was updated to Series 4 Oscar India specification in 1978, but most were fitted with threespeed autos. With US cars being further detuned to a paltry 245bhp, performance levels were often below those of earlier variants. Luxury levels were up, however, with an updated dashboard featuring wood-grain trim and leather headlining.

The final Series 5s were introduced in 1986, and fuel injection finally replaced the carburettor set-up across the board. A handful of Zagato-bodied 430bhp V8s were also built from this model year on.

Drop-top Volantes were offered in both V8 and V8 Vantage guises; aside from the

folding top, the differences between the two bodystyles were minimal. One notable exception is the Prince of Wales, or PoW, Vantage Volante, featuring the more subtle exterior bodywork of the car Prince Charles had commissioned. The final year of production for this long-lived model in all its variants was 1989.

ENGINE The V8 is yet another robust design from Tadek Marek, and aside from a 5000-mile oil service along with timing-chain adjustments every 10,000 miles, they tend to go on forever.

Oil leaks can lead to big bills, so make sure to check around the weep holes on the block and the rear main bearing after

a drive. Setting up the carburettors and the injection require a specialist.

GEARBOX Both the five-speed manual and threespeed auto are strong units. The former is not particularly smooth in operation and can be noisy at idle, yet it can take a lot of punishment. The autos are similarly long-lasting, but watch out for delayed or hesitant changes between gears.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Worn suspension bushes and tired dampers are common on these cars – and because many do not get driven very often, look out for seized brake calipers, too. The cradle holding the differential can crack

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 45

ASTON MARTIN V8 AND V8 VANTAGE MODEL HISTORY 1967: Aston Martin DBS introduced, initially with 280bhp 4.0-litre inline-six powerplant from DB6 1969: Series 1 DBS V8 revealed with 320bhp 5.3-litre V8 engine, and threespeed auto becomes an option

or in some cases break, especially on the more powerful Vantage models.

BODYWORK The aluminium body panels tend to be less of an issue than the steel framework that sits underneath. Corrosion can set in anywhere, but the chassis is the main culprit so check thoroughly around the wheelarches, boot floor and sills.

‘Rare X-Pack cars are highly valued, but for top bragging rights you’ll need to source a PoW Vantage Volante’

INTERIOR Refurbished cabins are common, while electrical issues can usually be traced to corroded contacts. Check that the airconditioning and heating systems are working properly, as repairs can be pricey.

WHICH ASTON MARTIN V8 AND V8 VANTAGE TO BUY With so many detail changes and a number of country-specific modifications, it is essential to research the history of any prospective purchase to ensure you know what you’re buying. Values for all derivatives rose steeply in the early-to-mid2010s, and while they’ve since levelled off, good examples still command a healthy premium over average-condition cars.

Volantes generally fetch higher figures than their coupé counterparts, while the more powerful Vantage is pricier still.

The rare X-Pack cars are highly valued, but for top bragging rights you’ll need to source a PoW Vantage Volante. With just 26 built, these are undeniably the most 46 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

sought-after Aston Martin V8 derivatives alongside the Zagato-bodied cars.

However, if all you are after is a bit of 1980s Aston Martin nostalgia, then any well maintained V8 will do the trick.

These cars are mechanically robust and parts are still widely available, but rectifying a neglected or abused example can quickly become ruinously expensive.

Most experts suggest that you go for the best one you can afford and spend the money up front. This way you will get to enjoy one of the most sublime classic grand tourers around, without having to worry about walking part of the way home.

Aston Martin specialist Nicholas Mee provided the technical details for this article. The Hertfordshire-based company is Classic Trader’s recommended vendor for all your V8 and V8 Vantage needs.

Fair: £47,000 Good: £63,300 Excellent: £77,500 Concours: £128,000 (Series 5 V8)

1972: Six-cylinder DBS ceases production and DBS V8 renamed to Aston Martin V8, referred to as Series 2. Fuel-injection replaces carburettor set-up 1973: Series 3 model sees a return to carburation and a taller bonnet scoop 1975: Financial difficulties and ownership change halt production for this year 1977: Aston Martin V8 Vantage revealed, featuring 390bhp engine, twin driving lights and blanked-out bonnet bulge 1978: Oscar India Series 4 variant introduced for both V8 and V8 Vantage.

More luxurious interior features woodlined dashboard and updated cockpit.

External changes include an enclosed power bulge and tail spoiler. Convertible Volante model introduced 1986: Series 5 model introduced in both coupé and Volante bodystyles.

Fuel injection now standard, and bonnet bulge is smaller. X-Pack upgrade offered by factory for Vantage models. 430bhp V8 Zagato introduced. 89 built in total 1989: Final year of production for all AM V8 and V8 Vantage variants.

4021 cars produced in total

SPECIFICATIONS 5.3-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

390-450bhp-plus 150-170mph 5.3-7.0 seconds (est.)

15mpg (est.)

BUYING GUIDE

2004-2016

Aston Martin DB9 Available in both coupé and convertible form, British marque’s first-ever Gaydon car is well on the way to matching its older stablemates’ venerable classic status

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S THE VERY FIRST CAR TO be built at Aston Martin’s new headquarters in Gaydon, the DB9 was an impressive piece of kit back in 2004. Thanks to continual upgrades to the chassis and powertrain it got even better over the years, and it is now a fantastic modern classic.

However, by the time the DB9 ceased production in 2016, the only thing the competition couldn’t match was that head-snapping styling. As it turns out, good looks and character are exactly what people desire in a classic, and that makes it a rather special machine.

Being an Aston, style and charm are in abundant supply. The V12 received minor

updates throughout production, but the cultured growl from the tailpipes and effortless acceleration at just about any velocity are present in every version.

Both automatic and manual models were available, with a drop-top Volante entering the fray in mid-2004. Continual fettling with the basic formula means later-model cars offer a noticeably more cohesive package. Mid-2006 saw the arrival of a Sport Pack, which improved the handling at the cost of some ride comfort, while from 2009 DB9s received a power increase and chassis tweaks. The updates continued, with further changes being made in 2011 and 2013.

While the earlier cars can still offer

plenty of driving enjoyment and a significant saving up front, none is cheap to maintain. If you get it wrong, your bargain may quickly turn into a money pit.

ASTON MARTIN

ENGINE

High-spec cabin is suitably plush for Aston’s luxury sports machine, and should have worn well

48 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

The 5.9-litre V12 was an updated unit from the DB7, and it benefited from years of development work. A service every 10,000 miles or annually will help keep things working as they should.

Some owners have had issues with faulty coil packs, however; a misfire or hesitation when accelerating are the warning signs. A recall regarding a battery-supply cable that could short circuit on the passenger seat also affected cars built in the early part of 2007.

‘Good looks and character are exactly what people desire in a classic, and that makes the DB9 a special machine’

GEARBOX The DB9 came fitted with either a ZFsourced six-speed automatic or six-ratio manual gearbox. The autos are far more common and tend to provide trouble-free service. There was a recall on early examples for an issue with the parking brake not engaging, so check that this has been rectified. Another intermittent fault can occur where the transmission reverts to neutral, due to the specific control switches earthing with the chrome-plated surround.

Manuals tend to be the more desirable option for enthusiasts. Check that there is no crunching or resistance when changing into second, as this may indicate that the car has led a hard life. Evidence of

frequent clutch changes can also be a pointer. Around 15,000 miles between changes is considered normal.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Two separate recalls were carried out regarding issues with the subframeassembly bolts and front suspension-arm cambolts, which could negatively affect the steering responses. If your car was built between 2007 and 2009, make sure this was sorted out.

Suspension components should not exhibit any clunking or rattling, and uneven tyre wear may indicate damaged control arms or bad alignment. The rear tyres tend to wear out more quickly than the fronts, and do so with alarming

regularity. Brake pads and discs should be trouble free, but the former require regular replacement because they wear out almost as quickly as the back tyres.

BODYWORK The mostly aluminium body has few problems with rust, but corrosion can occur on the edges of certain panels.

Check the wheelarches, doors and bootlid carefully. The bonded panels are not easy to repair, and few specialists have the necessary skills to do so. Stone chips on the front bumper can lead to further paint damage if left unattended, and check beneath the car for evidence of any poorly repaired panels or a scraped undercarriage.

Check that the roof mechanism on CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 49

ASTON MARTIN DB9 MODEL HISTORY 2004: DB9 coupé succeeds DB7, featuring updated 450bhp 5.9-litre V12 and choice of either manual or automatic transmissions. Volante convertible added to line-up midyear, with identical mechanicals and slightly heavier, reinforced bodyshell 2006: Sport Pack now made available as an option, offering revised suspension settings V12 can be traced back to DB7, which means it has benefited from years of development work

Volantes operates smoothly and there are no tears in the fabric. Fixing the top can be a labour-intensive job to rectify.

INTERIOR The interior is hard wearing, and the seats and door trim should still be in good condition. A well worn driver’s side bolster and scuff marks on the handles and buttons may be evident on multipleowner cars or high-mileage examples.

Cockpit creaks and rattles might be evident on some models, but this is normal. More frustrating are issues with the early Linn audio systems, which tend to be unreliable. The later Alpine units are far better, and some owners may have fitted aftermarket units, too.

A recall concerning the failure of the controls for the heated seats affected all 2006-2014 cars. Other electronic issues can dog the tyre pressure-monitoring system, controls for the electric seats and aforementioned automatic gear selector.

WHICH ASTON MARTIN DB9 TO BUY The DB9 has inevitably had to make way for the next wave of newer and faster rivals, but over the years it has lost very little of its original allure. Moving on to modernclassic status also means it can trade more heavily on its subjective strengths.

Early cars can be found for temptingly low amounts, especially ones with patchy

50 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

histories. However, this is false economy, and rectifying an abused DB9 is not for the faint hearted. There’s no need to avoid an early but well cared-for high-miler, though – yet post-2009 models offer a bit more power and some useful updates that may be worth the extra outlay.

The most sought-after DB9s are the post-2011 limited editions. The very rare manuals with restrained colour schemes and the optional Sport Pack suspension also tend to command a premium.

Volantes are desirable, too, although few were ever ordered with the manual transmission. Either way, there are plenty to choose from, so take your time and make sure to check over each potential purchase thoroughly.

Having been out of production for five years, the DB9 is still modern enough to be enjoyed regularly. Yet, just like its predecessors, when the time arrives it will become a highly valued addition to anyone’s classic car collection. For now, though, it offers a sublime mix of that classic Aston charm and a daily usability that makes it the perfect grand tourer.

Aston Martin specialist Nicholas Mee provided the technical details for this article. The Hertfordshire-based company is Classic Trader’s recommended vendor for all your DB9 needs.

Poor: £23,000 Good: £33,000 Excellent: £42,000 (2005 DB9 coupé)

2009: Power up to 470bhp and updates carried out to automatic transmission and chassis 2011: Facelift offers revised exterior and introduction of adaptive dampers.

Special-edition models with unique paint schemes are also available 2013: Power now up to 510bhp, complete with LED lighting updates and minor bodywork changes 2015: Final-edition 540bhp DB9 GT introduced to round off production run 2016: DB9 finally ceases production, making way for DB11

SPECIFICATIONS 5.9-litre V12 2004-2009 Power: 450bhp Top speed: 186mph 0-60mph: 4.8 seconds Economy: 18mpg 5.9-litre V12 2009-on Power: 470bhp Top speed: 190mph 0-60mph: 4.6 seconds Economy: 18mpg 5.9-litre V12 2013-on Power: 510bhp (540bhp: GT and Bond Edition) Top speed: 190mph 0-60mph: 4.5 seconds (4.4 GT and Bond Edition) Economy: 18mpg

Telephone 01753 644599

Mobile 07836 222111 ExcEptional Motor cars, carEfully coMpEtitivEly pricEd

At Runnymede Motor Company, all you have to do is choose the car of your dreams and then leave the rest to us – HPI checks, warranties, finance, servicing, restorations etc; whatever the requirement, we’ve got it covered.

Visit our website at www.runnymedemotorcompany.com

SHARE THE PASSION Whether your passion is a summer Concours at a stately home, an exhilarating race meeting at Silverstone, or a monthly pub meet, the AMOC has something for everybody… and you don’t have to own an Aston to be a member.

Many members of the AMOC join to find out more about owning an Aston – including the pitfalls – before they take the plunge. You can guarantee a member will have an answer for your question. Which model to buy, the running costs, the upgrades, etc.

If you’re already an owner, you’ll know the joy of driving an Aston. Sharing that joy with like-minded people brings a whole new world of experiences, opportunities and friendships.

Give us a try. Call Fiona on 01865 893930.

You’ll be made very welcome.

1998-2006

Audi TT Mk1

Is this stylish machine the greatest bargain in the world of modern classics at the moment? It could be...

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HE TT WAS UNVEILED AS a 2+2 Coupé at the 1995 Frankfurt Motor Show, where its clean Bauhaus-esque design language was highly acclaimed. The Roadster appeared at the Tokyo Motor Show a few months later, and by the time the production TT arrived in 1998, it looked almost identical to the concepts.

Underneath those clean lines is a shortened A3 chassis. The launch engine was the A4’s 1.8-litre inline-four petrol turbo. Later came VW’s 3.2-litre VR6. The 1.8 put out 148-236bhp depending on the model, while the 3.2 made 247bhp. Unlike 52 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

1980s’ Audis, the engine is transversely mounted. The TT could also have Audi’s Quattro all-wheel drive, and the bonnet, doors and bootlid were made of aluminium.

Many platform-sharing decisions were made to save on costs during development, which took seven months. This attracted criticism that the TT wasn’t designed as an uncompromised, thoroughbred sports car. What Car? more fairly said: “Excellent traction and sharp handling, but you’re better off thinking of it as a high-speed tourer than an outright sports car.”

The car was offered with a five- or sixspeed manual, and an innovative six-ratio

DSG auto – the second production car ever to get one, after its Golf R32 cousin.

The TT had a few teething problems, notably stability issues at high speed. A 2000 recall added traction control, a rear spoiler and suspension alterations. Few cars on the road today haven’t had these done, and the spoiler increases aesthetic appeal. Another issue was temperamental dashpods. Dealers replaced these for free if the car had a full Audi service history.

Despite these minor issues, the TT is a well built, modern car, and is generally a reliable and low-risk purchase if looked after. A clean example with a reputable service history is unlikely to disappoint.

ENGINE The difference between the most common 178bhp and 222bhp 1.8-litre engines isn’t huge, so the priority should be finding a well maintained car. A chequered service history can often result in oil-starvation problems from a blocked pick-up pipe.

Oil can leak around the rocker cover, injector ports and inlet manifold, so keep an eye out. If the cambelt is rattling it will

BUYING GUIDE

GEARBOX The TT manuals are bombproof, and clutches can last for 100,000 miles if not mistreated. Clutch replacement is labour intensive, and the unit is crammed in with the AWD addenda on Quattros. More unusually, the pedal is known to snap off.

The Haldex differential coupling should be serviced every 38,000 miles, and is the TT’s most overlooked maintenance job.

Changing the diff oil costs around £100.

Most worrisome are badly maintained DSGs; oil should be changed every 40,000 miles. Hesitant or jerky shifts mean a failing mechatronic unit and a £1200 bill.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Front-end knocking is indicative of failing wishbones or anti roll-bar. Springs are also known to snap. Suspension bushes can be perished due to age, but these are quite an easy, cheap fix. The front bushes can be downsized – the larger ones used in the stability recall do the handling no favours. Cheap aftermarket coilovers can ruin the handling and ride, but those from a reputable brand such as Spax, Öhlins or Bilstein should cause no issues.

BODYWORK The TT isn’t predisposed to rust, partially due to the use of aluminium in some panels. Yet early cars are now over 20 years old, so corrosion can still occur, often in the front arches, sills, bootlid and rear quarters, and near the Coupé roof rails.

Misaligned panels and inconsistent paint texture mean the car has probably been crashed. Body mods should have been done professionally if you want to prevent future headaches. Scuffed and corroded alloys are also common.

INTERIOR As is tradition with Audi, the cabin is very well made and should still be holding up well. The TT Mk1’s heated leather seats will likely be showing bolster wear, and the heater elements can also fail. There are plenty of good replacements available, so neither issue should be too concerning.

The only other interior problem of note is the dashpod failure that blighted many of these cars. Check these are working properly and have had the fix carried out.

WHICH AUDI TT TO BUY An array of TT models is available, so do your research and find the one that best suits your needs. As a rule, the Coupé is generally more practical and refined as a daily driver, while the Roadster is more enjoyable for summer fun.

VAG Performance suggests sourcing a stock 236bhp 1.8T with two-tone paint and lightweight seats. These avoid the potential reliability issues of VR6 models, which may lack a stringently adhered-to servicing schedule. That said, it’s recommended that your car has been serviced at least annually or every 10,000 miles.

TTs are reliable, well made and still fairly modern, which means buying one doesn’t involve huge risk. However, low past values mean many have been abused and subjected to a harsh life, so it’s better to spend more and get a properly lookedafter example to avoid future expense.

Thanks to VAG Performance for the information within this article.

Poor: £700 Good: £1800 Excellent: £2300 (2001 TT 222bhp 1.8T Coupé)

AUDI

need to be replaced, along with its tensioners. This should be done every 60,000 miles or five years, and is often overlooked, so ensure it’s been attended to. Worst-case scenario, a broken cambelt can mean a £2500 engine rebuild; you’re better off paying £500 for a belt change.

Although the water pump’s plastic impeller blades are known to snap, a metal alternative puts additional wear on the pump bearings. Meanwhile, if the antifreeze isn’t checked and coolant freezes in the block, a metal unit can cause timing-belt damage under starting.

The engine’s plastic dipstick tubing is also prone to snapping. If this occurs, it can lead to a substantial oil leak.

Many cars have been remapped, which is great if done properly, but problematic if done cheaply with a generic map. The VR6 (badged as a V6) is a tried-and-tested unit found in many other VAG cars. It is largely robust, but can develop a rattly camchain at quite low mileages. The c.£1000 fix requires the engine’s removal.

TT Roadster is a great open-top modern classic – but buy wisely to get a good one

AUDI TT MODEL HISTORY 1995: TT concept car unveiled 1998: TT Coupé released 1999: TT Roadster released 2000: Recall for stability issues.

ESP fitted. Six-speed ‘box across range 2001: S-Line Coupé launched; leather seats, 18in wheels and lower suspension 2002: Lowered and 18in rims across range 2002: 3.2-litre Quattro VR6 released, DSG auto now available. Bigger brakes, new front bumper, rear splitter and spoiler 2003: FWD 148bhp Roadster with fivespeed ‘box. Roadster available with 3.2 VR6 and Quattro AWD. Manual ‘box for 3.2 2004: FWD 178bhp car available.

Can be specified with six-speed DSG 2005: Coupé Quattro Sport launched.

Has 236bhp and 49kg-lighter kerbweight 2005: 148bhp upped to 161bhp; 178bhp up to 187bhp. 222bhp option phased out 2006: Mk2 TT replaces Mk1

SPECIFICATIONS 1.8-litre turbo inline-four Power: 148-236bhp Top speed: 133-155mph (limited) 0-62mph: 6.6-8.6 seconds Economy: 30-35mpg 3.2-litre turbo VR6 Power: 247bhp Top speed: 155mph (limited) 0-62mph: 5.7-6.3 seconds Economy: 27mpg CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 53

BUYING GUIDE

1959-1967

Austin-Healey 3000 The Austin-Healey 3000 was the final development of the Big Healeys, and its combination of power and beautiful styling makes it a superb classic to own

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HE AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 can trace its roots back to the original 2.6-litre fourcylinder Healey 100, which was launched in 1953 and was named after its ability to breach 100mph. The 3000 followed six years later, and its name referred to the six-cylinder engine’s near-3.0-litre capacity, which initially endowed the model with 124bhp.

Just like its six-cylinder 100-6 direct predecessor, the 3000 was stunning to look at, but there were a few changes under the skin, too. Aside from the uprated 2.9-litre motor, the new car also got front disc brakes and continued to be available in two-seat roadster or 2+2

bodystyles. The two-seater models offered a more sporting aesthetic and were the basis of the factory race cars. When the Mk2 variant arrived in 1961, it had a triple-carb set-up and an upgraded camshaft. A centre-change gearbox was introduced along the way, as well.

The Mk2A introduced the following year featured a more user-friendly folding roof and a move back to a twin-carb setup, which sacrificed a mere 1bhp for improved efficiency. The Mk3 was the final incarnation of the 3000, and it offered a big step up in power, now at 150bhp. This Mk3 also had a much more luxurious De-Luxe interior. Early Mk3s used the Mk2A chassis, but later cars had

‘The two-seater models offered a more sporting aesthetic and were the basis of the factory race cars’

a new platform design which incorporated a more resolved rear-suspension layout, among other refinements. Production of the 3000 Mk3 lasted until 1967, and these are the most numerous of all the variants that were built.

Many of these cars have been modified over the decades, and while an original example may command the highest prices in today’s market, a sympathetically upgraded model can be far more enjoyable to drive on a regular basis.

JME HEALEYS

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

The cabin is relatively simple, and a good-quality retrim can make a big difference to any car

54 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

The 2.9-litre OHV inline-six is a solid design and has no inherent issues waiting to catch out the unwary. Most engines have been rebuilt by now, and if yours

is showing signs of excessive wear (such as blue smoke from the exhaust, lacklustre performance or strange noises from the engine bay), parts are readily available for an overhaul.

Another key issue to look for is low oil pressure. JME Healeys of Warwick recommends that oil-pressure gauges should read 50-60psi when cold and 40-50psi when the engine has warmed up. These measurements should always be read at 2000rpm.

Performance parts are easily obtainable.

Owners often replace cast-iron cylinder heads with modern, aluminium versions.

These are lighter, produce more power and help dissipate heat more effectively. If something has been modified, check that

it has been done by a reputable specialist.

All 3000s came fitted with a four-speed manual transmission, with no synchro on first. Mk2s got a gearstick between the front seats, as opposed to the earlier sideselector layout. If the car is fitted with an overdrive, then this should engage on third and fourth. If not, the solenoid may simply need replacing.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The brakes are a simple design, and the usual issues such as seized calipers and corroded disc surfaces can affect cars that are left standing for long periods. Another known issue is weeping rear drum cylinders. These can contaminate the shoes and will eventually lead to brake

failure, so ensure this issue isn’t present.

The suspension is also mostly trouble free, but cars that have been modified with stiffer springs or bushes can feel a lot less forgiving over bumps. It is best to leave the set-up just as the factory intended. That said, original bushes are often perished by now. If this is the case, JME Healeys recommends replacing them with polyurethane items. These are more durable and come in several different ratings of hardness, which allows you some freedom over the suspension’s compliance.

On the other hand, the tyres do warrant an upgrade; modern radial rubber is preferable to the original crossplies. The kingpins can wear, evidenced by excessive CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 55

‘Semi-monocoque bodyshell can rust in a number of places, and repairs will be expensive’ movement from the front wheels. Wire rims can get damaged, so make sure you check for worn splines.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR This is where you should spend the majority of your time when inspecting a potential purchase. The semi-monocoque bodyshell can rot in a number of places, and the required repairs will be expensive.

Some areas such as the chassis main rails can start rusting from the inside out, so we would highly recommended you get a specialist to look at the car. Other problem areas for corrosion are the inner and outer sills, plus the front and rear outriggers and corresponding crossmembers.

Many examples have been repainted or restored by now, so check for the usual things such as uneven panel gaps, overspray and poor welding. A removable hardtop was offered for 2+2 variants.

The cabin is relatively simple, and a good-quality retrim can make a big difference to the car’s presentation. Mk3 variants had a slightly more luxurious interior, and fittings such as the wood veneer can be hard to source.

WHICH AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 TO BUY The Austin-Healey 3000 sports car was the last of the Big Healeys, and came fitted with a number of upgrades and refinements first introduced on the earlier 100 and 100-6 variants. It too went

56 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

through numerous updates, making the final Mk3 models noticeably more refined than the earliest 3000s.

The two-seater incarnations are rarer and more sought after. There are marked differences in the way they drive compared with the 2+2s – particularly the centre-change Mk2s – so it’s worth testing out two good examples backto-back if you get the chance.

While the later Mk2A and Mk3 models offer more performance and a number of detail improvements, any 3000 is an enjoyable drive. Many of the upgrades can be retrofitted if originality is not a must.

Values have been strong for some years, and even the less desirable variants are seen as steady long-term investments. A nice, driveable example of the most collectable models could set you back £75,000, while a concours car could be as much as £125k. Consequently, there are fewer poor-quality examples out there.

Don’t get distracted by seductive lines and shiny paintwork, though; buying a rusty car can be a very costly mistake.

The information in this article was supplied by Chris Everard of the worldrenowned JME Healeys. JME has been restoring, preserving and servicing Big Healeys for more than 40 years, and is recommended by Classic Trader for sales, servicing, restoration and parts.

Poor: £28,600 Good: £36,850 Excellent: £50,800 Concours: £96,500 (Mk3)

AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 MODEL HISTORY 1959: Austin-Healey 3000 introduced with 124bhp 2.9-litre inline-six powerplant and front disc brakes.

Two-seater (BT7) and 2+2 (BN7) bodystyles are offered 1961: Mk2 introduced, complete with vertical grille design and triple carbs on early cars. Two-seater BN7 variants are some of rarest, with just 355 made. Gearchange moved to vertical position 1962: M2A with twin carbs phased in (losing 1bhp but gaining in fuel efficiency), and new folding-hood mechanism introduced as well 1964: Mk3 (BJ8) arrives with more luxurious interior including wood-veneer trim. Larger twin carbs and revised camshaft help push power up to 150bhp.

Brake booster becomes standard, and May sees introduction of Phase 2 Mk3 with revised rear suspension 1967: Production comes to an end

SPECIFICATIONS 2.9-litre OHV inline-six Power: 124-150bhp Top speed: 103-125mph 0-60mph: 9.8-12.9 seconds Economy: 22mpg (est.)

BN1 Cape Works Special Retaining the integrity and simplicity of the original Austin Healey 100/4.

Reimagined and built in the original Donald Healey workshop in Warwick.

“Our aim was to produce a car that not only looked fast & exciting, but was also exciting to drive, mixing the power of a race car with the refinement and usability of a road car” jmehealeys.co.uk

BUYING GUIDE

1986-1990

BMW E30 M3 This European Touring Car homologation special is still considered to be the most engaging M3 to drive. We delve deeper into its legendary status

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dynamic abilities, and in that respect the original E30 remains as engaging and impressive as ever.

Delicate steering feel, pliant suspension and a forgiving chassis made the BMW a revelation to drive quickly. The overly sanitised steering system and rock-hard suspension settings of its modern-day equivalents remove a level of engagement that sheer speed cannot replace.

That said, the E30 M3 was created to meet the homologation requirements of the European Touring Car series, and the basic layout could clearly take much more power. While the final, road-legal, 2.5-litre Evos made 235bhp, the racespecification cars produced well north of 300bhp. It went on to become one of the most successful touring cars in motor sport history, but its legendary status was built around how ‘right’ the road cars

BMW

HE ORIGINAL BMW E30 M3 is a modern classic that retains much of the charm that made it so special upon its release 35 years ago. Now, as then, it is revered by enthusiasts for its communicative chassis and analogue, engaging driving experience. Its reputation is certainly justified, but as with any legend that gets exaggerated with each retelling, a little perspective is always valuable.

The E30’s 215bhp pales in comparison to the 21st century M3’s formidable 510bhp; driven back-to-back, the E30’s lack of accelerative force is a stark contrast. Yet although 215bhp wasn’t a particularly jaw-dropping figure even in the 1980s, with a mere 1200kg to push along the M3 was at least as fast in a straight line as its contemporary rivals.

Low weight also pays dividends for

Hard-wearing M3 interior should give little cause for concern, although dashboards can crack

58 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

felt from behind the wheel. Note that all E30 M3s were left-hand drive, though a few underwent aftermarket conversions.

The first variant was released with the S14 2.3-litre inline-four based on the M88 and later S38 straight-six engines. Specialedition variants made 212bhp (5bhp extra without catalytic converters); this motor was then used as standard from 1989-on.

As mentioned, the run-out models came with a slight boost to 2.5 litres and 235bhp – an impressive number for the day. All were equipped with a dogleg fivespeed manual gearbox, and a convertible was offered a few years into production.

With just under 18,000 variants produced, the E30 M3 was not as rare as other homologation specials, but

‘Prices have soared, so it’s important to do your homework before investing in one of the best M cars BMW ever built’

years of low values have trimmed those figures significantly. Prices have soared northwards in recent times, so it’s all the more important to do your homework before investing in one of the best M cars BMW ever built.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The S14 engine is robust, but neglect and abuse can significantly shorten the lifespan of its components. Check the timing chains because they require replacing every 100,000 miles, and the valves need adjusting every 30,000 miles.

Oil leaks can appear around the sump, and the head gasket and radiator fans can fail, causing overheating. If the car is suffering from a lumpy idle,

check the intake manifold for damage.

European models all had a dogleg Getrag 265 gearbox, while cars sold in the US had a standard H-pattern transmission from the BMW E24 635i E24. Both variants came equipped with a limitedslip differential as standard. The E30’s gearbox is tough, but notchy changes can indicate worn-out synchros. These are expensive to replace, so be wary of this.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Even the newest E30 M3 has now passed its 30th birthday, so inspect the bushes, shocks, control arms and tie-rod ends for wear. The car should feel planted and stable around corners; if it doesn’t, many of these components could require

attention. The standard brakes are decent, but many owners have upgraded the pads and discs over the years. A squishy pedal can indicate a leaking master cylinder.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Accident damage and rust are the two major things to look out for here. Despite the similarity to the standard 3-series, few body panels were carried over – and they are therefore difficult to source. Check for overspray and misaligned panels to identify accident damage, and inspect the arches, window surrounds, sills and boot floor for corrosion.

The interior is typically hard wearing, and aside from retrimming seats there shouldn’t be much cause for concern. Air CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 59

BMW E30 M3 MODEL HISTORY 1986: E30 M3 released. 197bhp 2.3-litre inline-four and dogleg five-speed manual gearbox standard (conventional H-shift pattern on US-spec cars) in coupé body

vents can become loose, but inserting a plastic washer in the mechanism resolves this. Dashboards can crack on the passenger side, although this shouldn’t happen if the car has been garaged.

The SII (service interval indicator) uses a small battery to retain its info. This can corrode and damage the back of the dash over time, so check to see if it has ever been replaced. Aftermarket head units are very common, as are upgraded speakers.

WHICH BMW E30 M3 TO BUY While there is no such thing as a cheap E30 M3 anymore, there are most definitely plenty of cars out there that don’t warrant their high asking prices. An otherwise pristinely presented example can often hide years of patchy servicing and questionable modifications.

Mileage can be high; remember that some examples were used as daily transport for years. With this in mind, the key thing to look for is a stack of servicing invoices, and any evidence of neglect and corrosion. Tracked cars are common – after all, that is what the M3 was built to do – but do check for signs of abuse and underbody damage.

A clean, standard model is a fantastic weekend toy, while the special-edition variants tend to command the highest prices. The differences generally amount to unique paintwork, signed plaques and some special trim, so there’s no harm in sticking to a standard model instead. The 60 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Even three decades after production ended, the original BMW M3 is still regarded as the purest example of what an M car should represent’

power figures grew incrementally over the years, but the actual performance difference is minimal, so try to focus on condition and history instead.

Convertibles were also offered, and these are generally less desirable than the coupés. US-specification models came with a conventional H-pattern gearbox sourced from the 325i and fitted with a shorter final drive. Even three decades after production ended, the original M3 is still regarded as the purest example of what an M car should represent. In that respect, it may never meet its match.

Credit goes to Fritz’s Bits BMW for the information in this article.

Poor: £28,100 Good: £36,900 Excellent: £48,800 Concours: £72,300 (M3 2.3-litre)

1987: Evolution I introduced with slightly revised cylinder head. Catalytic converter added to cars in some countries, reducing power output to 215bhp. French market gets Tour De Corse special edition (40 units) – available only with white or black paint 1988: Evolution II with 212bhp (217bhp without cats) introduced. Changes include larger wheels, plus different front splitter and rear spoiler. Convertible bodystyle introduced. Europameister special edition introduced 1989: Sport Evolution with 235bhp 2.5-litre engine introduced, brakecooling ducts replace front foglights.

212bhp 2.3-litre engine is used on standard models. Ravaglia (25 units) and Cecotto (560 units) special editions introduced to celebrate DTM successes.

Both feature 212bhp 2.3-litre engine, brake-cooling ducts and subtle interior trim updates including signed and numbered plaque 1990: Final year of production, with just under 18,000 examples built

SPECIFICATIONS 2.3-litre inline-four Power: 215bhp Top speed: 146mph 0-60mph: 6.5 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

2.5-litre inline-four Power: 235bhp Top speed: 152mph 0-60mph: 6.2 seconds (est.)

Economy: 30mpg (est.)

1998-2002

BMW Z3 M Coupé Practicality and performance don’t always go hand-inhand, but this oddball BMW is the best of both worlds

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F YOU PREFER YOUR M CAR TO come in a quirky package, things don’t get much better than the awesome Z3 M Coupé. BMW has long been renowned as a pragmatic and innovative automotive brand, consistently churning out technologically brilliant and practical cars. Putting together an M model from an amalgamation of existing and bespoke parts is just not the done

62 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

thing. However, ex-Daimler engineer Burkhard Göschel didn’t get the memo.

DEVELOPMENT Burkhard’s team took an early Z3 roadster, welded on a hardtop and shoehorned in the 3.2-litre motor from the E36 M3 Evo. The subsequent unveiling to the BMW board didn’t go particularly well, but after much manoeuvring the oddball Z3 M was

put into production. To control costs, much of the M Coupé’s components from the A-pillar forwards are interchangeable with the M Roadster’s. However, thanks to that ‘breadvan’ rear end this model is not only far stiffer, but it also offers more luggage space than you would expect.

Further savings were achieved by using the rear suspension from the E30 3-series, combined with components from the E36 Compact. In addition, the car also shared much of the E30’s switchgear. Despite this, the result was anything but generic, and the driving experience is quite different from that of the softer roadster.

European-spec M Coupés initially used the 316bhp S50 B32 motor found in the E36 M3, while US cars had the 240bhp S52 unit. From 2001 onwards the 321bhp S54 motor from the new E46 M3 was used, until production ended in 2002. The US also got this, but with power down, at 315bhp. That said, specialists have reported readings of 340bhp on the dyno.

Technical differences between the E46 M3 and the M Coupé, such as a modified exhaust and 500rpm-lower red line, meant

BUYING GUIDE

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Three engines were used during the M Coupé’s short production run, although for UK buyers only the M3-spec S50 B32 and later S54 units were available. Oil changes should be done every 900011,000 miles depending on the spec.

Vanos units are known to cause issues (look out for a rattle at idle and lacklustre low-end pick-up), although keeping the oil clean can greatly extend their lifespans.

A ticking noise means the valve clearances need adjusting, which is often overlooked.

S54 motors have been known to break bearing shells, so check if they have been replaced; uprated items are available.

A five-speed ZF manual ’box was used throughout, and the final drive was slightly shorter on US-spec cars. The shift should be accurate if a bit rubbery, but difficulty in engaging ratios could point to an issue with the clutch or synchros if they crunch between changes. The gearlever return spring can stretch with age, making shifts feel imprecise. While the new part is cheap, the labour to replace it isn’t.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The brakes were straight off the E36 M3.

Some owners have upgraded the pads, yet these are more than up to dealing with fast road use and the occasional track day.

Seized calipers are common on stored cars, but not much else goes wrong.

The suspension is stiffer and lower than the standard Z3 Coupé’s. The rear subframe was reinforced to deal with the extra power, but the boot floor has been known to shear around the diff mounts, so look for signs of damage. Aside from

regular checks for perished bushes and lower control-arm mounts, listen out for creaking at the back over bumps. The top rear suspension mounts can tear over time – a simple if time-consuming repair.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The steel body should show no signs of corrosion. If it does, the car may have been involved in an accident. Look for ill-fitting bonnets, poor panel gaps and overspray.

Much of the trim and switchgear is shared with other BMWs of the era. There are no real issues here, but expect to see worn seat bolsters on high-mileage examples. The air vents were inherited from the E30 3-series, as is their tendency to become loose over time. A plastic washer insert can cure the problem.

WHICH BMW Z3 M COUPÉ TO BUY The M Coupé didn’t break any sales records in its day, but as with many commercially unsuccessful cars of the past, it has found its true calling as a quirky modern classic.

The first S50-powered models offer a rawer driving experience, thanks to the lack of aids and the need to pin the throttle for the best performance. Later, S54 cars are more flexible at lower speeds, and the added safety net of standard stability control can prevent the unwary making a sideways exit into the bushes.

Mileages range from 20,000 to 150,000plus, but with a solid service history this should not be an issue. The S54 is by far the rarer model; of the 1112 built, 165 were RHD. Unsurprisingly, mint later-spec M Coupés are now far from affordable.

The earlier cars are still great drives and can be found for far more agreeable sums.

Hues such as Estoril Blue, Boston Green and even Dakar Yellow really accentuate the quirky looks. Just keep an eye out for accident damage and patchy maintenance; a big bill will only deprive you of the enjoyment of such a characterful M car.

Credit to Fritz’s Bits BMW specialist for the information contained in this guide.

Fair: £10,000 Good: £15,000 Excellent: £20,000 Concours: £32,000 (UK 316bhp)

MAGIC CAR PICS

the peak power difference was not much between the S50 and S54 units, but the later engines do offer more low-end grunt.

Both are strong performers, and because the earlier S50 cars were devoid of any driver aids except ABS, keeping the lively rear end in check was driver dependent.

Uncomfortably close pricing to that of the more mainstream M3 models, not to mention those divisive looks, ensured rarity. Just over 6000 of all Z3 M Coupé variants were produced, well down on the 15,000 M Roadsters that were sold.

Quirky ‘breadvan’ styling’ an acquired taste, but M Coupé remains a performance legend

BMW Z3 M COUPÉ MODEL HISTORY 1998: BMW M Coupé goes on sale.

European-spec cars get 316bhp 3.2-litre inline-six, five-speed manual transmission and limited-slip differential as standard; US variants get 240bhp S52 motor 2001: All M Coupés receive S54 powerplant, rated at 321bhp in Europe and 315bhp in US. Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) fitted as standard, as well as tyre-pressure monitor. All of the approximately 40 RHD S54-powered M Coupés sold in South African market fitted with full AC Schnitzer suspension, wheels and exhaust system 2002: Production finally ends for Z3-based M Coupé

SPECIFICATIONS S50 B32 3.2-litre inline-six Power: 316-321bhp Top speed: 155mph (limited) 0-62mph: 5.2 seconds Economy: 25mpg (est.)

S54 3.2-litre inline-six Power: 321bhp Top speed: 155mph (limited) 0-62mph: 5.1 seconds Economy: 25mpg (est.)

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 63

BUYING GUIDE

1973-PRESENT

Caterham Seven If you’re searching for a car that embodies Colin Chapman’s mantra of ‘simplify, then add lightness’, you should look no further than the Caterham Seven

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Lotus Seven has remained consistent.

From the outset the Seven has always been a driver-focused car, and it stays that way to this day. It’s built a reputation for impressive power-to-weight ratios, near50:50 weight distribution and stiff chassis.

As a result, the Seven’s presence on racetracks has been prevalent for 65 years.

Whether you’re looking to purchase a track-day weapon or find a car that’s perfect for attacking your local B-road, the Seven can do it all. Just don’t try to take one shopping.

ENGINE Powerplants from many manufacturers have found their way into the Caterham Seven’s engine bay over the years. Most often, they are four-cylinder units from the likes of Rover, Ford and Vauxhall.

Whichever motor sits in the model you choose, check that it has been properly maintained – especially if the car has been subjected to track driving. Circuit work is what the Seven is designed for, so it shouldn’t put you off as long as the servicing schedule has been stringently adhered to.

Head-gasket leaks are known to occur on the Rover K-series engines, but these aren’t a problem if addressed early enough.

Neither are they overly prevalent in the Seven. The MGF’s K-series motors were more known for this, and the issue was primarily caused by inadequate cooling.

Oil changes should be done annually regardless of mileage. If the car is being

CATERHAM CARS, MAX EAREY

I

N 1970, LOTUS HAD CREATED concept drawings for the Esprit, and by 1972 an agreement had been made with Giugiaro to design the bodywork. In other words, company founder Colin Chapman wanted his company to compete with the best sports car manufacturers Europe had to offer.

To do this, he thought Lotus had to shed its ‘kit car’ image, and so in 1973 he decided to sell the rights to produce the Lotus Seven. Caterham Cars of Surrey quickly identified the model’s potential, and so made the purchase. Caterham has been producing the Seven ever since, continuing a legacy that started in 1957.

The first examples built were effectively the remaining Series IV (S4) cars as produced by Lotus. This was a departure from earlier models, and was boxy, larger, better equipped and more stylised.

However, the 1970s styling did little to broaden the Seven’s market appeal and didn’t prove popular with enthusiasts.

Consequently, once the supply of Series IV cars ran dry, Caterham started producing the Series III (S3) again, making incremental improvements as production went on.

The S3 remains the basis of the standard Caterham chassis even today, although a larger SV chassis is now also available. A raft of changes has been made to the Seven over the years, to the extent that not a single part of the modern car is shared with the 1950s one.

Nonetheless, the DNA of the original

used on track, then refreshes should take place every 1000-1500 miles. In K-series cars, noisy tappets can be indicative of oil starvation by hard use on the circuit, or could also be caused by oil foam blocking the feed pipe.

With only about a 500kg kerbweight to move around, the engines enjoy a relatively unstressed life. Their reliability is generally excellent as a result.

‘Not a single part is shared with the 1950s car. Nonetheless, the DNA of the original Lotus Seven has remained consistent’

GEARBOX Transmissions are all manual units, and are usually the Ford T9 five-speed or a six-speeder designed by Caterham itself.

The company’s earliest Sevens came equipped with four-ratio ’boxes. Some Caterhams feature Honda or Suzuki motorcycle engines with corresponding bike gearboxes, which means sequential shifting. These are great on track, but are

quite unrefined for road use and very loud if they have a mechanical reverse ratio installed. The Ford T9 is a cost-effective and durable unit, but the six-speeder is more desirable and gets the most from the Seven’s small engine.

Issues are not common, thanks to the car’s low weight; gearboxes aren’t under huge duress even when the model is driven hard. Check for all the usual things,

such as a precise, crisp change and that the clutch biting point isn’t too close to the floor. Listen out for crunching when selecting ratios, because this can point to worn synchros. The lack of sound deadening and the sparse cabin mean there is noticeable transmission noise from the central tunnel.

If the model is advertised as having a limited-slip differential, check to make CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 65

sure it’s present. This can be done by jacking up the back of the car and turning a rear wheel; the other rim will turn in the same direction if an LSD is installed.

Later models with a Titan LSD have internal carbon plates fitted, which can fail and then effectively leave the car with an open differential. DPR Performance recommends avoiding examples with these differentials installed.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Discs and pads last a very long time thanks to these cars’ low weight, even if used on track. Check for uneven tyre wear; this points to misaligned suspension, to which a Seven’s handling can be very sensitive.

Classic Caterhams and cars fitted with motorcycle engines have live rear axles, while the rest feature independent back suspension. CSR models have inboard front pushrod suspension. Beware that front wishbones can corrode. You should also check that all the suspension is straight and undamaged from track use.

BODYWORK The body panels themselves are made from glassfibre and aluminium, so are not vulnerable to rust. However, this doesn’t mean corrosion should be dismissed. It can occur where the aluminium panels and steel chassis rails meet. The paint can

66 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

also bubble on the lower skins on each side, indicating underlying issues. Salt can corrode suspension components beneath the car, too. If you are able, get the Seven jacked up so you can get a good look.

The Caterham is so low it can be driven under parking barriers. This stance means it is vulnerable to scraping from speed humps, so check for damage here.

Wider, longer SV cars are better for big drivers and those who need more space.

When considering a potential purchase, check whether it is an SV or a smaller S3.

The SV spec is a £2500 option when new.

‘There is a bewildering number of Sevens to choose from; not surprising given Lotus released the first incarnation nearly 65 years ago’

INTERIOR Predictably, the spartan interior doesn’t have much to go wrong. The only area to look for is seat condition. Bolsters can wear, and some owners climb in by standing on the base, so check for issues here, too. The windscreen surrounds (if they are present) are also subjected to stress, because people often use them for support when accessing the cabin.

Some cars came optioned with lower floors to accommodate tall drivers. This can be well worth having.

WHICH CATERHAM SEVEN TO BUY

the first incarnation nearly 65 years ago.

The best way forward is to simply question what you want your potential purchase to do, and work back from there. If you’re after an unapologetic track-day machine, the first place to start would be the hardcore R models. If your new purchase will be more of a weekend warrior or ‘pub car’, the S, Roadsport, Classic and Sprint models are more than adequate.

Large drivers may find a car in the bigger SV spec to be essential. The lower floor of some Caterhams might also prove a worthwhile option.

There is a bewildering number of Seven models and options to choose from, which is not surprising given that Lotus released

Poor: £12,400 Good: £17,600 Excellent: £24,600 Concours : £33,400 (mid-1980s)

BUYING GUIDE

SPECIFICATIONS 1700 Super Sprint (Ford inline-four) Power: 135bhp Top speed: 111mph 0-60mph: 5.9 seconds

Track-day monster or Sunday fun car, the thrilling Seven is as appealing today as it was on its 1957 launch

Roadsport (Rover K-series 1.8-litre inline-four) Power: 122bhp Top speed: 118mph 0-60mph: 5.8 seconds

CATERHAM SEVEN MODEL HISTORY 1973: Caterham Cars starts producing Seven, after buying rights from Lotus 1982: Silver Jubilee celebrates 25 years 1985: De Dion rear end replaces live axle 1986: Seven HPC launched with 170bhp Cosworth BDR, most powerful unit so far 1992: 35th Anniversary released. Base Classic introduced. Jonathan Palmer Evolution (JPE) also brought to market.

Breaks production car 0-60mph record 1993: Caterham produces six-speed ’box 1996: Caterham Superlight introduced 1997: 192bhp Superlight R released 1999: R500 made available. Breaks Nordschleife production-car lap record 2000: Seven SV and Blackbird launched.

Latter has Honda motorcycle engine 2002: Caterham Cars starts partnership with MG Rover. Revised Classic and Superlight get MG XPower engines 2003: Roadsport SV 30 and Tracksport 2004: New R500 Evo achieves 0-100mph and 0-60mph records. New CSR uses Cosworth Ford Duratec engines 2006: R400 uses state-of-art build methods 2007: Roadsport 150 has Ford Sigma motor. Optional 50th-anniversary bodykit 2008: R500 put back into production with Duratec 2.0 engine. Top Gear Car of Year 2009: Superlight R300 and Roadsport 175 both start production 2010: CSR 175 launched in Europe.

Monaco limited edition 2011: Lola SP/300R unveiled at Autosport show. Supersport special released in UK 2013: 310bhp 620R fastest Caterham yet 2015: Range simplified with five core models: 160, 270, 360, 420 and 620.

Available in R or S trims 2016: 310R replaces 270R. New Sprint 2018: Retro-inspired Supersprint released 2020: Super Seven 1600 unveiled CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 67

BUYING GUIDE

1955-1978

Citroën DS The DS was a rolling technological showcase for the French brand, and its innovation and stunning design have left a lasting impact on the motoring landscape

I

chic, curvy bodywork was a complex hydropneumatic system that powered the brakes, suspension, steering and gearchange. This set-up defined the DS’s character, and gave it a ride and handling balance which surpassed that of just about any other car on the road.

The hydraulic suspension initially allows the Citroën to roll, but it firms up considerably under load, and the ride comfort is still among the best in the world. Rolls-Royce later licenced the technology for the Silver Shadow, just in case you thought we were exaggerating.

Citroën’s position under Michelin’s ownership also meant that the DS was equipped with bespoke radial tyres at a time when most cars were still running on conventional crossply rubber.

Boasting a semi-automatic transmission and a 1.9-litre inline-four, the first DS 19

MAGIC CAR PICS

NNOVATION HAS BEEN THE driving force behind the automotive industry since its inception, and Citroën ranks highly in this regard.

Unsatisfied with bringing just one or two new developments to market, the brand routinely introduced and integrated cutting-edge tech into its mass-produced models. For example, the 1934 Traction Avant came complete with front-wheel drive, monocoque body construction and four-wheel independent suspension at a time when most rivals were still building Ford Model T lookalikes.

Just when the competition was catching up, the Traction Avant’s replacement was unveiled to a stunned audience at the 1955 Paris Motor Show.

The Citroën DS was born, and it looked like no other executive saloon on the road before or, indeed, since. Beneath that

Upholstery was usually fabric, leather was a top-spec option but this is an unusual vinyl ID 19

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‘The Citroën DS was born – and it looked like no other executive saloon on the road before or, indeed, since’

was a leisurely performer, but the pillowsoft ride quality and sumptuous interior trimmings clearly defined its position in the luxury executive saloon class.

The relatively high pricing limited the sales potential, so a slightly lower-spec ID 19 model was introduced in 1957. This version offered a detuned 1.9-litre engine, low-spec interior, manual transmission and no power steering. An estate variant arrived in 1958 in both DS and ID flavours.

The built-to-order Chapron convertible DS was offered from 1960-on. It was expensive and rare, and remains so today.

The clever front-wheel-drive layout and inboard front disc brakes were still rare in the segment, and numerous updates and options were introduced in the early

1960s. These included a more powerful 2.1-litre engine choice, a redesigned nose and an even plusher Pallas trim level.

In 1968, the only major facelift was carried out, with directional high-beam lights joining the options list. The late 1960s and early 1970s also saw the use of a new, mineral-based hydraulic fluid, fuel injection and air-conditioning, while a (very rare) three-speed auto was also made available. The DS 23 marked the Goddess’s ultimate iteration. Producing 141bhp in its most potent injected form, it was capable of almost 120mph.

The DS also enjoyed some notable achievements in motor sport over the years, winning the 1959 Monte Carlo Rally after the first-placed Mini Cooper S

was disqualified. It also did well in events as diverse as the Mille Miglia and the East African Safari. DS production ended one month short of 20 years, an admirable innings for an impressive automobile with over 1.4 million examples sold.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The DS was offered with a range of fourcylinder engines, from 1.9 to 2.3 litres in capacity. Fuel injection was introduced as an option for 1970, yet the majority of the line-up was carburettor fed. The rest of the car might have been ahead of its time, but these powerplants are relatively simple, and regular basic maintenance can see them clock up big mileage.

Watch out for oil leaks and loose or

rattling timing chains. A noisy engine at idle could mean anything from valves that need adjustment to tired camshafts that require a rebuild.

Various gearboxes were offered over the years: a semi-automatic four-speed, automatic three-ratio and manual fouror five-speed units. All are relatively reliable, but look out for crunching synchros on the manuals and hesitation between gearchanges on the Borg-Warner automatic. If the five-speed manual whines in high ratios, this is indicative of dry and worn gearbox bearings. An adjustment screw on the transmission bellhousing indicates how much life is left in the clutch; if it is all the way out, the clutch is nearing the end of its life.

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 69

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR

WHICH CITROËN DS TO BUY

The hydropneumatic suspension is not overly complex, but specialist knowledge is required to ensure that it functions as the factory intended. In the late 1960s a new mineral oil-based hydraulic fluid replaced the previous formulation. Both systems require different types of seals, and interchanging fluids can easily damage the hydraulic system. The newer LHM fluid and hydraulic elements were coloured green, to avoid confusion.

Aside from suffering general wear and tear the suspension is reliable, and most issues usually stem from neglect or having unqualified technicians work on the car. When taking a potential purchase for a test drive, listen out for knocking suspension at speed, as this could indicate worn ball-joints. A permanently sagging car may very well have a hydraulic fluid leak that needs attention.

The front brakes can be difficult to access thanks to their awkward placement beneath the radiator, and calipers can stick on pre-1967 cars if the vehicle has spent a long time stationary. The handbrake pads are also part of the front brake assembly and can be pricey to replace, so check the car doesn’t move when the handbrake lever is engaged.

Meanwhile, the rear stoppers tend to last a lot longer and are easier to service when the shoes do need replacing.

While the svelte and swoopy bodywork is still a lovely sight, if corrosion takes hold of the frame then be prepared for a very large bill. Rust on the body panels is less of an issue; they can be hard to source, but aftermarket parts can be found.

Check for rust around the door frames, sills, footwells and suspension mounts.

There are very few DSs around that haven’t been restored or repaired by now, but make sure the work has been carried out to a high standard.

Plusher Pallas variants came with unique body mouldings, so ensure that these are still present. Unless you are looking for a project, it is best to avoid cars in poor condition. These Citroëns hide their rot very well, so it is highly recommended to have a specialist check out your potential purchase.

Seat upholstery was most commonly done in fabric, although leather was optional on top-spec variants and some cars have been retrimmed in this way.

There are still specialists around that offer a ‘turn-key’ retrimming service for the DS, although finding replacement switches and various trim pieces can be tough. Air-conditioning is most often found in the Pallas variants. Meanwhile, early cars came fitted with a rectangular instrument binnacle, while later models featured circular gauges.

The DS in all its variants is a great classic.

The later cars benefited from more power, upgraded hydraulic fluid and, in the case of the Pallas, a host of extra kit.

The saloon bodystyle is more pleasing to the eye than the oddly shaped wagon, and it’s easier to find. The Chapron convertibles are beautiful and rare; they will mainly appeal to serious collectors, thanks to their heady values.

If you’re looking to regularly drive your DS, a post-1969 manual model may be the best choice. Early cars are best avoided unless you’re a collector and don’t plan on using it regularly; the early hydraulic fluid is hygroscopic, tends to leak and is corrosive to the bodywork and seals.

Aside from evidence of regular maintenance, the most crucial aspect of any pre-purchase inspection is the chassis’ condition. An overly corroded car is expensive to repair, and very keenly priced models may be hiding all manner of evils. Find the right car, though, and prepare to be transported back to a time when the DS reigned supreme.

The information in this guide was kindly supplied by our recommended Citroën DS specialists, French Classics and DS Workshop.

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Fair: £8700 Good: £12,800 Excellent: £18,000 Concours: £27,000 (1971 DS 21)

BUYING GUIDE

CITROËN DS MODEL HISTORY 1955: DS 19 goes into production, with hydropneumatic suspension.

First variants offered with 75bhp 1.9litre inline-four engine; semi-automatic

Introduced in 1955, DS was a state-of-the-art model that placed Citroën at the forefront of automotive innovation.

Chapron drop-top is a rare sight on today’s roads

1957: Lower-spec ID has conventional steering, brakes and transmission, but still fitted with hydropneumatic suspension.

Detuned 66bhp 1.9-litre engine 1958: New Safari estate has split rear tailgate and seating for up to eight people 1960: Special-order Chapron-styled two-door convertible introduced.

Manual now available; top-spec Pallas trim introduced 1965: 109bhp 2.1-litre DS 21 arrives 1968: Major facelift includes fully covered directional lights; LHM hydraulic fluid used 1970: Fuel injection now available as an option for manual cars. Millionth DS built 1971: Fully auto three-speed is optional 1973: 2.3-litre DS 23 introduced, with up to 141bhp in fuel-injected form 1975: DS saloon production comes to an end, approximately 1,455,000 built 1978: Last convertible built, for Alan Clark MP. Drop-top production ends.

Approximately 1246 convertibles made

SPECIFICATIONS 1.9-litre inline-four Power: 60-75bhp Top speed: 87-100mph 0-60mph: 23 seconds (est.)

Economy: 30mpg 2.1-litre inline-four Power: 109bhp Top speed: 105mph 0-60mph: 20 seconds (est.)

Economy: 28mpg 2.3-litre inline-four Power: 141bhp (injected) Top speed: 117mph 0-60mph: 15 seconds (est.)

Economy: 27mpg

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 71

BUYING GUIDE

1948-1990

Citroën 2CV Sophisticated simplicity. Are there two words that better describe France’s humble Deux Chevaux?

T

O THE CASUAL OBSERVER, the 2CV seems an antiquated relic – an agrarian, Gallic reminder of the 1950s. By modern standards it’s hopelessly slow, ostensibly unsafe and about as complicated as the French countryside for which it was so famously designed. However, just as said landscape veils its complexity with familiarity, so too does this Citroën.

Its origins hark back to the late 1930s, and the prototype ‘Toute Petite Voiture’.

The TPV was an even simpler 2CV, with corrugated panels, one headlight and a crank handle. The brief was to make it as convenient as an ‘umbrella on wheels’.

In 1948, the TPV emerged from the ashes of World War Two as the 2CV – albeit with extra innovations. Outwardly, it sprouted an extra light and traded the TPV’s flat, corrugated nose for curvaceous wheelarches. Underneath was a raft of

pioneering features, such as hydraulically powered brakes – which became inboardmounted discs at the front by 1981.

Then there was the suspension. Fully independent and controlled by a horizontal coil and mass damper set-up, its comfy ride remains more supple than that of many new air-suspension units. The 2CV also had headlights adjustable from the cabin, fresh-air vents, a heater, radial tyres and speedometer-actuated wipers.

The downsides? Well, its air-cooled, flat-twin engine is famously anaemic in its power output, producing between 9bhp and 29bhp. However, its almost gasketless design made it reliable – and criticising its performance somewhat misses the point.

If one engine wasn’t enough, you could always buy the Sahara, which had two to power its four-wheel drive. Sticking a motor on the rear axle negated the need for driveshafts, transfer boxes and diffs. It

was another ground-breaking, if typically rudimentary, 2CV feature.

Simple, intelligent engineering saw 3.8 million models built during a 42-year run, making it Citroën’s best-ever seller. Today, the car is viewed as a lifestyle statement and an important part of automotive history. It played a big role in modernising post-war France, and provided reliable and affordable transport for millions.

CITROËN, MAGIC CAR PICS

ENGINE

Most examples of the Citroën’s simple but comfortable interior have been retrimmed by now

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The 2CV was always reliable – but it’s still a classic, so there are a few things to look out for. Rattles may be due to broken piston rings, but this is rare. A noisy engine could also have ill-adjusted valves.

Excessive smoke when warm could point

‘The quirky Citroën Deux Chevaux has transitioned from utilitarian people’s car to collectable lifestyle icon’

to failing valve-stem seals. Some smoke on a cold start is normal.

The 2CV Shop advises that oil should not be present on the engine or gearbox, particularly on the sump. If the latter is oily, the push-rod tube seals could be leaking; removing the head to fix this isn’t a quick job. If oil is present on the front chassis legs, the rocker-cover gaskets may be leaking. This is a relatively simple task.

Dirty, low oil is evidence that the car hasn’t been well maintained. Lubricant changes should be done every 3000 miles.

Make sure the engine is in good health, because a reconditioned one can cost c.£2000. Put the heater on during your test drive, too. If an excessive smell of exhaust fumes wafts through the vents,

the head could be blown. Electronic ignitions are often retrofitted. These cost around £135 if you would like to install it yourself, and £200 fitted. Early cars had a single-choke Solex carburettor, which was enlarged in 1970 and then replaced with a twin-choke unit in 1978.

GEARBOX The four-speed manual dogleg ’box is not known for any particular problems. It should feel smooth and notch free. The most common issue is a crunchy thirdratio synchro. This can be diagnosed by shifting into third at 30mph; if the gear crunches, the synchro is probably on its way out. The transmission bearings can also wear out, and will sound noisy.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Suspension should be quiet, smooth and comfortable. If it ‘honks’ over bumps, the spring tubes need oiling – but this isn’t a huge job. The kingpins need to be greased every 1000 miles to help prevent wear. The rack and track-rod ends can also wear. If the steering feels heavy, it could mean the chassis is bent – so just walk away.

Front brakes are inboard-mounted discs from 1981-on. Stopping should feel smooth, regardless of set-up.

BODYWORK Rust is the 2CV’s nemesis, and it can affect almost any part of the car. As a result, very few examples are still on their original chassis. Other than the standard

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 73

An ‘umbrella on wheels’; Toute Petite Voiture (TPV) prototype was simple in the extreme

CITROËN 2CV MODEL HISTORY 1948: 2CV A unveiled with 375cc, 9bhp 1951: 2CV AU Fourgonette van arrives 1954: 2CV PO and 2CV AZ released 1959: Original 2CV A phased out platform the car was built with, there are two other kinds to be aware of.

Firstly, the non-OEM aftermarket chassis, whose quality varies from nongalvanised versions that are simply painted black and have incorrect chassisleg angles, to galvanised set-ups that are resistant to rust and fit for purpose.

Secondly, there are original chassis remanufactured by Méhari Club Cassis under licence from Citroën. These are an original, galvanised, serial-numbered part, and have accompanying paperwork. They are made with original Citroën tooling in southern France, and are the only replacement chassis that are homologated for use in the EU. The 2CV Shop says they are the best choice for ride and quality.

If the doors and floor are sagging, the chassis is probably rusted and may have been welded to scrape it through an MoT. Avoid any example with evidence of this.

Rust is also a problem for the rear wings, petrol tank, shock mounts, sills, screen surrounds, bonnet hinges, boot floor, doors and rear panel, but these are cheap and easy to replace. Panels remanufactured by specialists are available at The 2CV Shop.

Finally, check the fabric roof’s condition, and ensure it isn’t leaking or ripped.

INTERIOR The cabin is very basic but comfortable.

The ‘deckchair’ seats wear around the edges and sunlight can damage the tops.

Many interiors have been retrimmed by

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now, which is not a hugely expensive job thanks to the car’s simplicity.

WHICH CITROËN 2CV TO BUY As with the classic Mini, 2CV prices have climbed dramatically as the Citroën has transitioned from utilitarian people’s car to collectable lifestyle icon. Prices for a decent driver start at £2500-£3000, but something this cheap is not recommended and should be seen as a restoration project.

A mint model will cost £13,000-£14,000 from a private seller, and north of that from a good dealer. If you want a genuine 4WD Sahara, you’ll need patience and very deep pockets; they’re extremely rare, and one recently sold for £90,000.

Due to the quantity of cars made and their wide, continued following, parts are readily available and there are many owners’ clubs. Don’t get hung up on mileage, age or spec; the priority is finding a rust-free example that has clear evidence of regular maintenance. There is also a growing trend of converting 2CVs to electric powertrains, which is an option if you want your car to have a touch of modern refinement and performance.

This information was provided by the UK’s The 2CV Shop, which offers restorations, servicing, parts and EV conversions, and is Classic Trader’s recommended vendor for your 2CV needs.

Poor: £3000 Good: £5200 Excellent: £8200 Concours: £11,500 (’85 disc brake)

1965: Doors front hinged, extra window 1967: Angular Dyane hatch arrives 1968: Méhari off-roader released using Dyane chassis, plastic bodywork 1970: 435cc and 602cc upgrades, 12V 1974: Headlights now rectangular. 2CV relaunched in UK with 602cc engine 1975: Base Spécial with round lights 1980: Charleston special released 1981: Front disc brakes added 1985: Spécial-based 2CV Dolly released 1988: Last French 2CV rolls off line 1990: Final 2CV built in Portugal

SPECIFICATIONS 375cc air-cooled flat-twin Power: 9bhp Top speed: 39mph 0-60mph: N/A Economy: 36-55mpg 425cc air-cooled flat-twin Power: 12bhp Top speed: 41mph 0-60mph: N/A Economy: 36-55mpg 602cc air-cooled flat-twin Power: 29bhp Top speed: 71mph 0-60mph: 27.03 seconds Economy: 36-55mpg

1977 Ferrari 308 GT4 Dino

Delivered 11 November 1977, finished in Grigio Ferro complemented by stunning Bordeaux leather. Presented in superb condition following recent restoration. Main dealer pre-inspection, cambelt change and annual service carried out in March 2021. Previous owners adopted a ‘no expense spared’ approach as documented in the vehicle’s extensive history file. Accompanied by a Tony Willis letter, original paperwork, restoration documentation, warranty card & service book, user manual, workshop manual, and complete tool & jack kit. This example wants for nothing, and is undoubtedly one of the finest currently available. £59,950

Independent Ferrari Sales +44(0)7973 444 468 info@mugellocars.co.uk www.mugellocars.co.uk

1967-1974

Ferrari Dino 206/246 Maranello’s first road-going V6 is now considered a true Ferrari, but things were not always so clear-cut

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EW WOULD CONSIDER THE Dino to be anything but a proper Ferrari these days. Yet back in the 1960s, the mere idea of putting a prancing-horse badge on a road car not sporting a big V12 under its bonnet was unthinkable.

Sure, Ferrari had built a number of racing prototypes in a V6 configuration, but fitting one to a road machine was just not on the cards. Well, not until

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Formula 2 Monoposto (single-seater) regulations required that racing engines had to be production based, with at least 500 built each year.

Such volumes meant that Ferrari had to strike up an alliance with Fiat, which would fit slightly detuned variants of the same engine into its own Dino Spyder and Coupé. And that is how the Dino 206GT was born. The first cars were intentionally marketed without any Ferrari badges, in

an attempt to differentiate the ‘real’ V12 models from this entry-level offering.

However, it was soon clear that this very light, aluminium-bodied sports car was a Ferrari in everything but name.

The 2.0-litre 178bhp engine provided eager if not exactly thrilling performance, and just 152 LHD units were produced between 1967 and 1969. At this point the Dino 246GT was introduced, sporting a more powerful, 192bhp 2.4-litre V6 motor (175bhp for US-spec cars). This helped improve the acceleration figures despite a higher kerbweight, thanks to the body now being made from steel to save on production costs. A targa-top GTS model joined the GT in 1972, and these variants stayed in production until 1974.

While they are referred to as Ferrari Dinos these days, the marque’s name was never officially used for these cars. The sales brochure called it: “Tiny, brilliant, safe… almost a Ferrari.” The Dino certainly was brilliant, and the driving experience was streets ahead of that of many V12 Ferraris from its era. Those Pininfarina-designed curves have aged

BUYING GUIDE

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The 65-degree V6 was initially developed for Ferrari’s racing programme, and had twin-overhead cams along with electronic ignition. The 2.0-litre engine blocks were made out of aluminium, while the 2.4-litre units were manufactured from cast iron.

Regular servicing and frequent oil changes (every 3000 miles) are vital.

Valve clearances need to be checked, too, which is a less labour-intensive job on 2.4-litre cars than on the earlier models.

The Dinoplex ignition system can be problematic, so it is best to use a knowledgeable classic Ferrari specialist here. A smoky exhaust could indicate worn valve guides or pistons.

Two timing chains were used on these engines. These are less troublesome than the cambelts on many Ferrari V8s, but be wary of noisy and under-tensioned chains, as they could spell big repair bills.

A five-speed manual transmission was used on all variants. Second gear is recalcitrant when cold; this is a pre-1990s Ferrari after all. Changes should be crisp and direct once the ’box is warm, and sloppy shift quality or crunching gears may indicate that a rebuild is imminent.

Parts are still available at a price.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The ventilated all-disc brake set-up has no inherent faults, but check for seized calipers and warped discs on stored cars.

The suspension system is a relatively standard affair, and the usual age-related

‘The Dino has gone from a budget ‘almost Ferrari’ to a highly regarded Maranello thoroughbred’

issues tend to be the only things to look out for. If the car does not feel planted and responsive to steering inputs, have a good look underneath for worn bushes and shock absorbers.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Rust is the biggest nemesis of the Dino.

Otherwise pristine-looking examples can hide all manner of evils underneath their seductive bodywork.

Values have been high for some time now, which means ground-up restorations are far more common. Nonetheless, a very comprehensive inspection of any potential purchase should be carried out.

206GTs were all aluminium, while the 246 models were steel bodied with aluminium doors and bonnets.

Retrims are common, because the interior of all but the most pampered cars will be showing noticeable wear by now.

Vinyl was the default factory trim, but leather is a popular alternative. The electrics are not a Dino strong point, so check that gauges, windows and buttons are all working as they should.

WHICH DINO 206/246 TO BUY The Dino has gone from a budget ‘almost Ferrari’ to a highly regarded Maranello thoroughbred over the decades. Many years of indifference and low values have thinned out its ranks, and original examples are now extremely valuable.

The rare and short-lived 206GT models naturally command the highest prices in today’s market. Low mileages, matching numbers and originality all help boost values even further. The vast majority of cars offered in the UK are 246GT and GTS models. The ‘chairs (Daytona seats) and flares (wider arches)’ options tend to command higher prices.

Almost all Dinos will have undergone full restoration, but not every renovation is carried out to the same high standard.

Be sure to inspect the service history, and get a specialist to give the car a thorough once-over before committing.

Poor: £127,500 Good: £157,500 Excellent: £210,000 Concours: £232,500 (246GT)

MAGIC CAR PICS

beautifully, and the Dino has since taken its rightful place among Ferrari’s most coveted machines.

Vinyl was the default factory finish for the interior, but a lot of retrims favour leather

FERRARI DINO 206/246 MODEL HISTORY 1967: Dino 206GT goes on sale powered by 178bhp 2.0-litre V6 and five-speed manual transmission. Just 152 cars built, all of them left-hand drive 1969: 206GT replaced by more powerful 246GT. Power up to 192bhp courtesy of larger 2.4-litre V6 engine 1970: RHD production starts 1972: 246GTS introduced featuring removable targa top and identical mechanicals to 246GT 1974: Dino production comes to an end with just over 4000 of all variants built; 488 GT and 235 GTS models imported into UK in total

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre V6 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

178bhp 140mph 7.5 seconds 25mpg (est.)

2.4-litre V6 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

192bhp 146mph 7.1 seconds 25mpg (est.)

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 77

BUYING GUIDE

1973-1989

Ferrari 308 and 328 It shook the cognoscenti to the core when it arrived, but this mid-engined V8 Ferrari has since claimed its place in the sun – helped by a starring TV role

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place of the curvaceous Dino 246. The peculiarities didn’t stop there. The GT4 was Ferrari’s first-ever 2+2, as well as the only 2+2 design to be raced by the brand with factory support.

The GT4’s mixed reception betrayed what was a very good car underneath. Its low kerbweight meant the 2.9-litre V8’s 252bhp (240bhp for US cars) provided impressive performance, even in later, emissions-strangled 203bhp US cars. A special 208GT4 was also offered for the Italian market, making an even lower 168bhp from its tax-dodging 2.0-litre engine – one of the lowest-displacement production V8s ever built. The flat-plane powerplant sounded fantastic, and its shrill wail has become emblematic of mid-engined V8 Ferraris ever since.

Unfortunately, as a result of the 308GT4’s deviation from brand tradition, it remained under appreciated and then

MAGIC CAR PICS

ODAY, THE PHILOSOPHY of a mid-engined V8 Ferrari is an established one, following decades of both influential and celebrated cars from Maranello. However, there was a time when the idea of a Ferrari sporting anything less than 12 cylinders was highly controversial. So contentious, in fact, that the model which started the marque’s V8 lineage wasn’t originally called a Ferrari at all.

The 308GT4 was released in 1973 as the Dino GT4 and was produced until 1980. The 308GT4 is among few largely forgotten Ferraris, undoubtedly hindered by the fact that it was initially deemed unworthy of bearing the Cavallino Rampante emblems on its flanks.

Its body styling was also a point of contention; the GT4 was one of a handful of Ferraris penned by Bertone, and its wedgy profile wasn’t well received in

Cabin used a variety of materials when new and should be durable. Wiring can be dodgy, though

78 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

overshadowed by its stablemates that also carried the 308 name; the 308GTB (Gran Turismo Berlinetta) and GTS (Gran Turismo Spider). The 308GTB was released in 1975, two years into the GT4’s production run. The ‘308’ part of the moniker indicated the same transversely mounted 2.9-litre V8 was present.

Additionally, the 308GTB/GTS and GT4 shared the same tubular chassis, although the GTB/GTS version was shortened.

The Ferrari 308GTB/GTS proved far less polarising than the GT4. The latter had already set a precedent for midengined V8 Ferraris, and the GTB’s Pininfarina-designed bodywork turned out to be much better received than that of the angular GT4.

However, it was arguably the release of the targa-top 308GTS, and its subsequent starring role in TV’s Magnum PI, which cemented the car in the memory of many enthusiasts. It even made an appearance in the World Rally Championship, competing in the Group 4 and Group B classes of the 1970s and 1980s.

As the 308 entered the final phases of its production run, a fuel-injected version was offered in the form of the GTBi and GTSi, due to emissions regulations. These variants had lower power outputs than their multi-carb counterparts; 212bhp in Europe and 202bhp in the US. Once again, there was an Italian-only 2.0-litre 208GTB/GTS option available from 1980, which was succeeded by a turbocharged version come 1982.

In 1985, the 308 ended its production run and the 328 arrived. It looked similar to the 308GTB/GTS, although the design was softened and honed for optimal aerodynamic properties. The mechanical

‘The flat-plane motor sounded fantastic, and its shrill wail has become emblematic of mid-engined V8 Ferraris ever since’

components were an evolution of the original 308’s 1970s design, with the V8 engine’s capacity increasing to 3.2 litres, producing 270bhp. The 328 boasted a modernised interior complete with an early form of diagnostics, and ABS was fitted as standard from 1988.

As with its predecessor, the 328 was available as both a hardtop coupé GTB and targa-top convertible GTS. The latter were far more popular and sold over the GTBs at a ratio of five to one. In 1986, a 2.0 V8 turbo 328 was released specifically for the Italian market, in order to circumvent the country’s punitive tax legislation once again. Production of the 328 ended in 1989.

cold start and 40-45psi at idle when the engine is warm, rising back to 85psi under load. Oil leaks from the cam cover are common, and can be rectified at the same time as the valves and tappets are adjusted (every 15,000 miles). Cam seals are prone to leak in cars that have not been used regularly.

Front-mounted radiators can clog up, so check the cooling system and make sure the fans switch on when needed. All 308s had a multiple carb set-up, and getting them right is a specialist’s job.

Updated 308 ignition packs from 1978-on are an improvement, and you can have a more modern system fitted if originality is not a particular concern.

ENGINE

GEARBOX

In all 308s and the 328, cambelt changes should be carried out every two years regardless of mileage. If the belt snaps, you are in for an engine rebuild, so it is best to be cautious here. While having the cambelt replaced, it is recommended that owners have the clutch, water pump and valve adjustments seen to as well.

Early 308s had sodium-filled valves, which tend to break. Unless you find an untouched car with delivery mileage, these should have been replaced by now.

328s got upgraded multivalve heads and electronic fuel injection as standard, while in the 308 this was the preserve of the GTBi/GTSi and Quattrovalvole models.

Oil pressure should sit at 85psi on a

In a trait shared with most Ferraris built in the 1970s and ’80s, it is best to avoid using second gear when the transmission is cold on the five-speed models. Synchros can fail over time but the gearbox is generally robust and doesn’t usually cause issues. The clutch typically has a lifespan of around 20,000 miles, so if the clutch disengages high in the pedal travel, it’s probably on its way out.

If the car jumps out of gear, it means the transmission is worn and will need considerable attention to rectify in the near future. And if the shift quality when warm is obstructive, or ratios are difficult to engage, the clutch may be on the way out or the slave cylinder could be leaking.

80 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘The 308GT4s have been a hidden gem on the used market, and can still be had relatively affordably – although prices are creeping up’ SUSPENSION The suspension set-up on all variants is relatively simple, and aside from leaking shocks and cracked rubber bushes, there shouldn’t be much cause for concern.

Suspension bushes should be inspected and renewed every 30,000 miles – sooner if the car has been left standing for extended periods. Things should feel well planted and solid around bends; if there is excessive pitching or body roll, the shocks may need replacing. If the steering rack feels loose, inspect the rack and joints for wear.

Brakes are discs all round, and the most common issues such as seized calipers and rusted discs are found on disused cars. An overhaul will be pricey, so make sure the model you’re looking at pulls up straight and the handbrake works as it should. Magnesium alloy wheels can

buckle and corrode. From 1988-on the 328 could be specced with ABS, identified by the convex alloy wheel design, similar but not identical to the Mondial.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR For the 308 models, rust is your main issue. That is, unless you source a very early glassfibre (Vetroresina) model, but these are rare and more expensive. The usual hotspots are the sills, door bases, footwells, boot floor and the surrounds of the sunroof and windscreen. Blocked drainage holes are a common cause of rust on 308s, so check these when inspecting your potential purchase.

Thanks to its galvanised construction, rust is far less of a concern on 328 models.

Don’t get too complacent, though; check the front wings, lower door seals and the

sections where the bumpers are bolted to the bodywork, just in case.

For all variants, body parts are generally available, but a thoroughly rusted car can easily become a money sponge thanks to the expense of the spares. Resprays are not uncommon, so check for misaligned pop-up headlights and doors as well as excessive panel gaps around the bonnet.

A variety of 308/328 cabin materials could be specced when new, and cars that have been retrimmed tend to be finished in leather. The interior is durable, although GTS models may show more wear and tear on the seats, thanks to the removable roof section.

Check all the switches and electrics; issues do occur, and the 308s wiring under the dashboard was famously haphazard even from the factory. That

said, when it comes to investigating malfunctioning electronics the fuse box should be your first port of call. Finally, make sure that the electric windows are not operating at a snail’s pace. Lubricating the mechanism can help remedy this.

WHICH FERRARI 308/328 TO BUY The Ferrari badge and the stunning lines of all models can easily distract you from the task at hand, so before you hand over your cash be sure to check that the car has a solid service history and no big maintenance bills are looming. The 308GT4s have been a hidden gem on the used market for a long time now, and can still be had relatively affordably – although prices are creeping up.

Lower-volume 308 models and early

Targa-top 308GTS was cemented in the memory of many enthusiasts, due to its starring role in 1980s TV series Magnum PI

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 81

FERRARI 308/328 MODEL HISTORY 1973: Bertone-designed Dino 308GT4 launched, becoming first mid-engined V8 and 2+2 bodystyle in Ferrari’s history.

All equipped with 252bhp 2.9-litre V8, five-speed manual and rear-wheel-drive layout; referred to as Series 1 cars 1975: Dino 208GT4 introduced for Italian market with 168bhp 2.0-litre V8. US gets 308GT4 with 240bhp. Ferrari 308GTB launched with glassfibre body and same mechanical underpinnings as 308GT4.

Lower-powered 2.0 V8 208GT4 arrives Ferrari’s 308GT4 was the first mid-engined V8 and 2+2 bodystyle in the manufacturer’s history

glassfibre-bodied cars are very rare and expensive. The 308GTBi and GTSi were very popular in period, but today these models are less hankered after than their predecessors. Earlier 308s have proven more sought after because of their four double carburettors, higher performance and better engine note.

The 308 is often depicted as an ‘entrylevel Ferrari’, but interested parties should be aware that even the smallest fixes will hit your wallet hard. Spares and repairs have typical Ferrari prices, and should be factored into the ultimate purchase value.

Maintenance work on the engine should be carried out only by specialists. Keep away from modified cars, even if the price seems appealing at first glance.

The 328s are a good compromise between modernity and value, while still retaining the earlier 308’s classic lines.

These are also less prone to rust and are more reliable than you’d expect of a classic Ferrari. Whichever example you choose, it’s best to get an expert to check over your purchase; mistakes when buying these cars can be very expensive to rectify.

Specialist Bob Houghton provided the technical details in our feature, and is Classic Trader’s recommended destination for your Ferrari 308 and 328 sales, parts and restoration needs.

Fair: £35,800 Good: £43,200 Excellent: £55,100 Concours: £74,900 (’79 308GTB) 82 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘The 308 is often depicted as an “entry-level Ferrari”, but be aware that even the smallest fixes will hit your wallet hard’

SPECIFICATIONS 308 (2.9-litre V8) Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

252bhp 154mph 6.0 seconds 14mpg (est.)

GTBi/GTSi injection (2.9-litre V8) Power: 214bhp Top speed: 149mph 0-60mph: 7.0 seconds Economy: 26.8mpg (est.)

328 (3.2-litre V8) Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

270bhp 166mph 5.5 seconds 20.0mpg (est.)

1976: Name changed to Ferrari for all variants, and these Series 2 cars are slightly heavier than Series 1 models.

US versions equipped with catalytic converters but still rated at 240bhp 1977: Ferrari 308GTS targa-top introduced; all 308s now have steel panels 1978: 308GTB Group 4 rally car available 1980: Ferrari 308GT4 and GTB/GTS end production. 208GTB/GTS 2.0-litre released for Italian market with 153bhp 1981: Ferrari 308GTBi/GTSi injection released, replacing carb-fed GTS/GTB with lower power figures for emissions (212bhp in Europe, 202bhp in US).

208GTB/GTS production ends 1982: Ferrari introduces 308GTB Group B rally car. 308 Quattrovalvole replaces GTBi/GTSi, upgrading engine to four valves per cylinder (240bhp in Europe, 233bhp in US). 208 Turbo launched with 217bhp. 208GTS/GTB Turbo has 217bhp 1984: 288GTO launched with twinturbochargers and smaller, 2.8-litre bore, 395bhp. It is fastest-ever road Ferrari 1985: All 308 production ends.

Comprehensively redesigned Ferrari 328 replaces 308. Changes include new styling inside and out, 270bhp 3.2-litre V8 and chassis now fully galvanised 1988: ABS available as option for 328.

Wheels changed to convex design to accommodate system 1989: 328 production comes to end

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BUYING GUIDE

1999-2005

Ferrari 360 The 360 Modena wasn’t an immediate hit with Ferrari fans, but today it is a highly desirable junior supercar

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track-only race cars with significant modifications over the standard Modena.

No targa top was offered this time around.

Meanwhile, the roll-out of the F1 electrohydraulic manual gearbox was in full swing by this point, so fewer than 30 percent of owners ended up ordering the six-speed manual version.

While the 360 introduced Ferrari owners to new levels of reliability and usability, early cars did have some teething troubles and there are a few things to watch out for.

However, prices have yet to soar into the stratosphere, and good ones are a joy.

ENGINE The V8s are robust and benefit from regular use, so don’t be too taken in by lowmileage garage queens. As electrics can get damaged if batteries run flat, investing in a decent trickle charger is advised.

The dreaded labour-intensive motor-out

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HE 360 MODENA MAY have had the unenviable task of replacing the much-loved F355, but it came prepared, arriving in 1999 with a raft of technological innovations. Among these were a new allaluminium chassis, electronically controlled suspension and aerodynamic body.

Slippery its lines may have been, but initially they just weren’t as popular as those of the classically beautiful F355. Yet the true worth of Ferrari’s new midengined V8 lay under the skin, where its uprated engine, lighter chassis and sharper handling soon proved their worth.

The 3.6-litre eight-cylinder was a development of the 3.5 used in the F355.

In standard form it produced 395bhp, swelling to 420bhp in the stripped-out 2003 Challenge Stradale. Between those two extremes was a Spider released in 2000, and there were also a couple of

Cabin was a step up from F355 predecessor’s plasticky feel, with leather trim proving durable

84 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘The 360 Modena introduced Ferrari owners to new levels of reliability and usability, and good ones are a joy’

cambelt change that plagued earlier midengined Ferraris is a thing of the past here, and the resultant time saving greatly lowers overall maintenance costs. Budget on replacing the belt every three years.

Noisy tappets are normal when cold, but if they persist it may be worth getting the engine inspected. Gaskets and cam covers can weep oil, so check for any leaks.

Regular oil changes, every 6000 miles or annually, are vital to keep the motor running smoothly. Hesitation at high revs can indicate faulty ignition coils.

Early cars suffered from premature cam-variator failure, and while all should have been rectified at dealer level, if you are looking at a pre-2001 model make sure this has been attended to.

GEARBOX Both the manual and F1 automated ’boxes tend to be reliable if cared for. The singleplate clutch used on both lasts up to 30k miles. The F1 works well when driven hard, but can be jerky in town, and the clutch wears out far quicker here, too.

Manuals are better in this regard.

However, worn linkages can make it hard to change between second and third. F1s can leak from the hydraulic actuators, and damaged mounts can cause crunchy shifts.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Modena and Spider models have steel brake discs and adaptive dampers. Both are hard wearing and should be relatively trouble free. If the steering wheel shudders

under braking the discs may be warped, which could indicate a hard life.

Challenge Stradales came with carbonceramic discs, which should last a long time. Replacements are very expensive, so check them thoroughly. CS cars also had 19-inch alloys, which can be retrofitted to the standard Modena but spoil the ride.

Ball-joints wear out every 10k miles or so – if you hear any knocking noises over bumps, they may be due for replacement.

Specialists can install upgraded items to extend replacement intervals.

BODYWORK The 360 featured an aluminium bodyshell.

This bodes well for rust resistance, although corrosion can still occur around

the windscreen, side repeaters, centre of the nose and blocked drainage holes.

Because the front bumpers tend to suffer from pitting due to stones, some owners have applied a plastic protective film over the nose to avoid an expensive respray.

Challenge Stradale cars had a carbonfibre bonnet and lightened bumpers, which may be pricey to repair if damaged.

INTERIOR The cabin of the 360 was a big step up from the somewhat disappointing plasticdominated F355 interior. Its leather seats tend to look good for years, with the side bolsters being the first area to show wear.

Certain switches and buttons can start looking tired over time. Some owners

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 85

Spider is mechanically identical to Modena hardtop, with electrically folding soft-top

have complained about excessive wear on door handles and window switches.

Challenge Stradale cars had far fewer luxuries. The radio was removed from the spec sheet, while perspex windows and carbon-fibre-backed manual sports seats were standard fitment. These last items were optional on the Modena and Spider.

Spiders had an electrically operated roof; the fabric can stretch over time, but what you really need to look for are tears or worn areas. Faulty mechanisms are generally down to damaged sensors or microswitches, which should be easy to fix.

WHICH FERRARI 360 TO BUY Being the first ‘entry-level’ Ferrari with daily usability allied with contemporary performance levels, there is much to like.

In a testament to the increased reliability, mileages can be a bit higher than in earlier Ferraris, and customers were also more adventurous with paint and trim choices.

If you are set on a manual, you will need patience because most cars came with the F1 transmission. The split between the hardtop Modena and drop-top Spider was relatively even, and used values are broadly similar, too. As with most classics, those have dipped somewhat in the past few years, but the manual hardtops are still the most desirable and can command up to a 30 percent premium.

The hardcore Challenge Stradale follows the less-is-more philosophy, and makes do without leather, carpets, sound-deadening 86 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

and a radio. It offers a much sharper driving experience, especially on track.

Evidence of regular maintenance, and a once-over by a specialist, are vital in avoiding big bills at a later date. The 360 is a great entry point into Ferrari ownership, and still offers the kind of engaging drive you’d expect from the brand.

Ferrari specialist Bob Houghton in Gloucestershire provided the technical details in our feature, and is our recommended destination for Ferrari 360 sales, parts and restoration needs.

Fair: £44,000 Good: £52,000 Excellent: £75,000 (Modena F1)

SPECIFICATIONS Modena 3.6-litre V8 Power: 395bhp Top speed: 184mph 0-60mph: 4.3 seconds Economy: 17mpg Spider 3.6-litre V8 Power: 395bhp Top speed: 180mph 0-60mph: 4.5 seconds Economy: 17mpg Challenge Stradale 3.6-litre V8 Power: 420bhp Top speed: 186mph 0-60mph: 4.0 seconds Economy: 17mpg

FERRARI 360 MODEL HISTORY 1999: Ferrari 360 Modena coupé released featuring all-aluminium design and updated 395bhp 3.6-litre V8. Six-speed manual and six-speed F1 automated gearbox available 2000: Ferrari 360 Spider released, mechanically identical to Modena with electrically folding soft-top and chassis reinforcement adding 59kg to overall weight. 360 Modena Challenge introduced for one-make racing series 2002: 360GT introduced – a nonroad-legal race car made available to customers who are intending to use them for track events 2003: Limited-edition Challenge Stradale introduced. Changes include standard carbon-ceramic brakes.

Extensive weight-saving features such as perspex windows, Alcantara-covered carbon seats and stripped-out interior mean a 110kg-lighter kerbweight 2004: 360GTC replaces 360GT and remains track-only derivative 2005: Final Ferrari 360 rolls off production line to be replaced by F430

BUYING GUIDE

1957-1976

Fiat 500 Produced with a variety of engines and bodystyles over its long production run, the plucky little car that got post-war Italy mobile remains much loved today

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Sport model, producing a whopping 21bhp and 22lb ft of torque.

The last upgrade came to the final variant, the R/Rinnovata. This borrowed the engine from the Fiat 126 and had a displacement of 594cc. It produced less power than the Sport, at 18bhp, but its 27lb ft of torque was higher.

Of course, the real value of the original 500’s motor wasn’t performance. Instead, it was the simplicity and affordability of the air-cooled design. This meant Italians who were already familiar with scooter engines could easily and cheaply maintain their Cinquecentos at home.

The 500’s packaging was also a stroke of genius. The two-cylinder’s transverse, rearward mounting meant the drivetrain was virtually the reverse of a Mini’s. This allowed seating for four people despite the car’s tiny 2.97-metre length. The diminutive

MAGIC CAR PICS, FCA HERITAGE

S THE DUST OF WORLD War Two settled, several ‘people’s cars’ emerged: the Volkswagen Beetle, Mini, 2CV and Fiat 500. The 500, or ‘Cinquecento’, was released in 1957 to succeed the ageing Topolino (‘little mouse’ in English). Its predecessor was built under the spectre of 1930s fascism, just like its German Beetle counterpart. It’s certainly ironic that fascist dictatorships were the backdrop for the development of liberating cars with cutesy bodystyles. Even so, the impact the little Cinquecento made on the future far outweighs its lineage to a dark past.

Under the endearing bodywork, a twocylinder 479cc air-cooled engine sat over the rear axle, producing just 13bhp and 20lb ft of torque. Both power and capacity increased marginally during the 500’s production run, first to 499cc in the

Simple, spartan cabin is usually cheap to retrim, but interior parts on early cars can be scarce

88 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

proportions and spartan spec sheet also meant the Fiat weighed just 500kg – 80kg less than the equivalent Austin.

With its rear-wheel-drive, rear-engine set-up and low weight, the 500 wasn’t just practical, it was great fun to drive, too. Its unassisted steering still provides excellent feel, and the car has surprising levels of grip, devoid of virtually any understeer.

Absolutely perfect for threading through narrow Italian streets.

Its manual gearbox is a rudimentary design; with just four speeds and no synchromesh, it requires a nifty doubleclutching technique to work smoothly.

This further heightens the level of engagement, and although it could soon become wearisome, everyday driving is

‘Whatever model you choose, the 500 is a small car with huge character, and as a piece of automotive history it’s worthy of any collection’

an unlikely usage for a Cinquecento today.

The popularity of the 500 meant nearly four million were produced during its 18year production run. Semi-convertible, panel-van and estate bodystyles were all offered. In 1965, the Abarth 595 arrived, which produced 30bhp and 33lb ft of torque. This was followed by the Abarth 695 of 1968, which upped the power output to 37bhp and 42lb ft of torque. The Abarth models had uprated carburettors along with specially designed pistons and camshafts. Abarth SSs boasted aesthetic variations including flared wheelarches.

We spoke to classic Fiat specialist Middle Barton Garage in Bicester, which highlighted the common pitfalls faced when searching for a 500. It provided the

technical information provided here to help with your purchase, and is a trusted source for servicing, parts and car sales.

ENGINE If well maintained, the 500’s engine is reliable and should have no problem covering thousands of miles before needing any major attention. This is still a classic car, though, and issues can occur.

The first thing to look for is excessive oil burning, as this is indicative of a worn motor that hasn’t been well maintained.

Another issue is overheating. As a rearpowered car, the Fiat is more prone to this because its engine bay isn’t sitting directly in the flow of oncoming air. Therefore, it’s important to check that the unit’s cooling

flaps are unobstructed. If the engine isn’t cooled sufficiently, it can lead to damaged cylinder heads. Worst-case scenario, a fresh motor will cost around £3000.

Oil is known to leak from the sump and rocker cover. The good news is that this is often due to a failed valve in the oil-filler cap, and is a £10 fix. However, if the dipstick is being ejected, a rebuild is on the cards. Again, this is expensive.

Listen out for a noisy timing chain, as this is a tell-tale sign that it needs replacing. Make sure the spark plugs, distributor and carburettor have all seen maintenance, because they are often overlooked. If these parts have been replaced, ensure they are high-quality items; second-rate versions are now CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 89

commonly produced in China and sold cheaply on websites such as eBay. Engine swaps are common in this car.

If originality is a concern then ensure the original motor is still in place, because larger and more powerful Fiat 126 units are often found in the back of 500s. If these are installed properly and are in good condition, it isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

Even so, Middle Barton Garage says it has seen an influx of sub-standard 126 engines imported from Poland in recent years. Bearing this in mind, make sure the work was done by a specialist and that the parts were from a trustworthy source.

GEARBOX The 500 ’box is a very simple four-speed unit. Its lack of synchromesh means unsympathetic drivers can easily damage the transmission; first ratio should not be engaged while moving, for example. If the car jumps out of gear or is especially noisy, a complete rebuild will soon be required. This costs around £1300, so being vigilant is definitely worthwhile.

A sloppy gearchange usually points towards the linkage needing adjustment.

A rubber bush in the linkage can perish after years of exposure to oil, but at under a tenner this is very cheap to replace.

If a 126 engine has been fitted, the ’box will be carried over, too. This brings the benefit of synchros, and negates double declutching. Once again, make sure that the conversion has been done well.

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SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Unsurprisingly, the suspension system is a pretty basic set-up. However, there are still a few things to look out for. Firstly, the front kingpins suffer a design flaw in which oil isn’t very effectively dispersed.

Try to grease them every 1000-1500 miles, otherwise the bottom bearing will seize.

Leaf springs can corrode, so make sure the Fiat sits level when looking at it head on. The rear beam axle is also susceptible to rust; get underneath the car and check it’s in good condition. The steering should feel accurate. Excessive play indicates a worn box, and overly stiff steering means it has likely been over adjusted in the past to compensate for sloppiness.

Brakes are drums all round, so check for worn linings, leaks from the cylinders and perishing lines. Disc-conversion kits for the front are available from reputable aftermarket suppliers.

BODYWORK Unfortunately, the Fiat 500 is prone to rust. Nearly 50 years have passed since the last one rolled off the assembly line, and it was a cheap car with scant anti-rot measures to begin with. After half a century of corrosion and bodging, the used market is something of a minefield.

Recently, many UK-bound Italian models have looked immaculate inside and out but hidden write-off-level rust underneath.

Be extra careful – if corrosion is left to spread unimpeded, the cost of rectifying

it can easily surpass the value of the car.

Assess the usual areas such as the sills, wheelarches, door bottoms and edges of the roof and windscreen. Then check under the wheel in the front luggage compartment, because rust is known to lurk there. Models with a sunroof fitted are more vulnerable to floorpan rot, and corrosion can also be found around the battery and fuel tank of all variants.

The 500 isn’t double skinned, so rust shouldn’t be hard to find if it’s present and you know where to look.

INTERIOR The theme of spartan simplicity applies as much to the 500’s interior as it does to mechanical components. Scant upholstery means retrimming the cabin is a cheap proposition, and many cars have had this done by now. The electrics are simple, so there’s little to go wrong; the main issue of note is corroded wiring insulation.

Early 500s didn’t even have alternators, although they can be modified to have these fitted. The only major problem is the scarcity of interior parts on early cars; it’s worth making sure that nothing is so worn or damaged that it needs replacing.

WHICH FIAT 500 TO BUY As Middle Barton Garage says: “There is a yawning chasm in both quality and price of 500s. A nut-and-bolt restoration to ‘asnew’ specification would be around £25k.”

In other words, tread very carefully. The

BUYING GUIDE

‘Differences between 500s are so slim that the priority should be finding a car that’s been well maintained and remains rust free’

FIAT 500 MODEL HISTORY 1957: 500 Nuova released with 13bhp 479cc two-cylinder engine. It has suicide doors and a retractable fabric roof 1958: Nuova Sport with 21bhp 499cc engine. Features rigid roof and two-tone livery, plus retractable roof from 1959-on More practical Giardiniera estate is one of several variants available; retractable fabric roof is a trademark of the cute 500

1960: 500D and 500 Giardiniera. Former looks similar to Nuova, with suicide doors, but has 21bhp 499cc engine. Latter estate has underfloor engine for flat load bay.

Made under Autobianchi name from 1966 1965: 500F/Berlina. F has front-hinged doors and is sold as base model. F interior is near identical to Nuova’s, and car lacks chrome bumpers. Abarth 595 and 595 SS have 30bhp engine, with latter getting flared arches, new wheels and spoiler 1968: 500L/Lusso released. L is more luxurious version of F with updated cabin, new hubcaps plus chrome bumper and window trim. Abarth 695 and 695 SS arrive. Power is 37bhp; 1000 produced 1971: 500R/Rinnovata released. Final iteration of 500, R has Fiat 126’s 594cc engine, producing 18bhp at a lower 4000rpm. Still has no synchromesh.

Cabin is more comfortable and simplified

original Fiats remained largely the same throughout their long production run.

Earlier examples had suicide doors, but these are now increasingly difficult to find, and many have succumbed to rust.

Most clean examples for sale today are either F or L variants. The F model is less luxurious and gets circular cabin dials that look more characterful than the L’s revised square units. The latter has plusher trim than the F, while the run-out R models are very rare and come with the slightly bigger 594cc engine from the Fiat 126.

Differences between 500s are so slim that the priority should be finding a car that’s been well maintained and remains rust free. Avoid imports with a sketchy past, and buy with your head not your heart; there are just too many troublesome examples out there. There is more availability abroad, but you also have to

factor in the extra costs of importing and registering the vehicle.

Abarths are extremely rare; only around 150 have survived. You’ll need very deep pockets to secure one of these models, but it is possible to convert a standard car with a replica kit. Again, though, be very careful with this. If you’re buying a pre-converted model, the work must have been carried out by a specialist. Plenty of fake ‘Abarth’ parts are in circulation, but the factory FCA Heritage now sells the real thing.

Whatever model you choose, the 500 is a small car with huge character, and as a piece of automotive history it’s worthy of any collection. Just be wary of which one you go for, and spend more to find a decent example with an unambiguous history.

Fair: £5000 Good: £8500 Excellent: £12,200 Concours: £19,500 (1971 500L)

1976: Final 500 rolls off line; 3,893,294 have been produced since start

SPECIFICATIONS 479cc inline two-cylinder Power: 13bhp Top speed: 53mph (est.)

0-60mph: N/A Economy: 63mpg 594cc inline two-cylinder Power: 18 bhp Top speed: 62 mph (est.)

0-60mph: 35.0 seconds Economy: 51mpg 689cc inline two-cylinder (Abarth 695) Power: 37bhp Top speed: 75mph (est.)

0-60mph: 20.0 seconds Economy: 34mpg CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 91

BUYING GUIDE

1969-1986

Ford Capri Mk1, 2 and 3 From early 1300s to end-of-line 280s, there’s a huge range of the car you always promised yourself

T

3000E. The 1971 RS2600 homologation special allowed Ford to participate in the European Touring Car Championship.

Kugelfischer fuel injection gave it 150bhp, and numerous mechanical updates made it the quickest Capri yet.

Sales soon expanded to include the US, Australia, Japan and South Africa, each offering slightly different engine and trim specs. Notably, the last of these received a special-edition Perana, which had either a 3.0-litre Essex V6 or a 5.0 Windsor V8.

A 1972 facelift brought different headand taillights as well as a more forgiving suspension set-up, and the carburettorfed RS3100 replaced the RS2600 in 1973.

Revised both inside and out, the 1974 Mk2 was also Ford’s very first hatchback

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE CAPRI CAN THANK THE US Mustang for its existence, but its lasting success was due to the way Ford marketed the European coupé. Based on the four-door Cortina, the Capri was offered with many engines and trims. This helped keep prices down, and once customers saw the great two-door styling, the deal was sealed.

When the Mk1 fastback coupé went on sale in 1969, it seemed relatively exotic compared with other cars at that price point. A 1.3- and 1.6-litre Kent inline-four did entry-level duty in the UK, while Europe got various V4s. Early rangetoppers had 2.0 engines in both markets, although larger-capacity units were soon introduced, such as the luxurious 3.0-litre

Most interior parts are available for Mk1s such as this, but later Capri models are less well served

92 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘The Capri was offered with many engines and trims ... once customers saw the two-door styling, the deal was sealed’

design. A three-speed auto trans was now available on all but the lowest-spec models, and a shorter bonnet and larger interior meant the Capri had evolved into a more luxurious and capable daily driver – especially in the top Ghia trim.

Special editions such as the John Player Special added some visual drama, and the broad engine range from 1.3 to 3.0 litres offered something for everyone. US sales ended in 1977, and the Mk3 was introduced to the rest of the world the following year.

This time the changes were more akin to a facelift than a comprehensive update.

Quad headlamps and a redesigned bonnet were the most obvious visual alterations, while mechanically things remained much the same for the first few years aside from

some factory-backed Series X performance options. The most notable were the 3.0litre X-pack upgrades; these offered power boosts on the 3.0 cars to either 170bhp (Series X) or 185bhp (GP1), as well as a limited-slip diff and aero add-ons.

Despite this, demand was waning. This was partly due to the rise of sporty hatches such as Volkswagen’s Golf GTI and Ford’s own XR range, and partly due to the Capri’s ageing platform, which no number of visual updates could mask. Still, the model had a few more tricks up its sleeve – the first being the fuel-injected 2.8 that replaced the 3.0 Essex V6 in 1982. It had 160bhp and, aside from the first few units, a new five-speed manual transmission.

Turbocharged offerings, both factory

and aftermarket, were also built in limited numbers. A LHD-only 188bhp 2.8 Turbo was sold in Germany, while the UK got a Tickford Turbo, which used the newer injected 2.8-litre motor to good effect, producing 205bhp. The latter Capri cost twice as much as the standard model, so a semi-official Turbo Technics version was offered with 200bhp from 1981-on.

European sales ended in 1984, but the Capri soldiered on in the UK for two more years. Lower-spec models were rebranded as Lasers and featured more standard kit.

A Capri Injection Special was introduced, featuring a limited-slip diff and other performance enhancements, but the final hurrah came in the form of the greenpainted Capri 280 Brooklands. Fitted

with the 160bhp 2.8i motor, a limited-slip diff and unique 15-inch wheels, it was priced a bit too high to be a volume seller, but 1038 cars still found willing buyers.

Production ended in 1986, by which time only the 1.6 Laser and 2.8i were on sale. Without a direct replacement, and with consumer focus shifting to more modern metal, the Capri’s reign had well and truly come to an end.

ENGINE The sheer number of engines offered through the Capri’s production lifecycle means there are some model-specific issues to consider. Look out for worn timing chains on Kent motors; a noisy idle is usually a good sign that it is due for a

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 93

replacement. Parts for these motors in particular are still readily available.

The V4’s original nylon-toothed timing gears were prone to shearing, but alloy and steel replacements are available. The oil-pump hex shaft is a V4 weak point and, if worn, the pump stops working.

Leaking head gaskets are common but easily rectifiable. Regular coolant changes are important, especially on the V6.

The Pinto inline-four was introduced as a replacement for the V4, and was a first-for-Ford belt-driven OHC design.

Camshaft and follower wear was common on early cars; a spray bar was used to keep the camshaft lubricated, but this would block easily. They were improved – but listen for a noisy top end anyway.

As a rule, watch out for cracked cylinder heads, and check the radiator cap for any signs of oil mixing with the water. Aside from this, the usual regular fluid changes should, of course, be adhered to. Most cars were fitted with carbs, the RS2600 and last-of-the-line 2.8i being the exceptions.

GEARBOX Most Capris had a four-ratio manual ’box, with a five-speeder being introduced for the Mk3 2.8 in 1982. A three-gear auto was also available, most commonly found on larger-capacity variants and Ghia trims.

All are robust and should last for years, especially on the less powerful cars.

Things to watch out for on manuals are worn synchros – especially in second –

94 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

and a heavy clutch pedal. Autos should shift ratios smoothly, so look out for slurred changes or long delays between shifts. Gearboxes needing a complete overhaul are rare, unless the car has clearly been neglected or abused.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The simple suspension set-up received only minor updates during the course of production. Most issues are age related, such as leaking dampers, worn bushes on the control arms and seized rear brake drums. Ford Capri specialist Capri Gear recommends replacing perished bushings with SuperFlex polyurethane bushes.

These will transform the car’s handling.

Capri Gear itself also offers many replacement suspension parts.

Discs were standard up front, while the rear drums had servos on most models, but don’t expect modern-day retardation levels here. The rudimentary leaf-sprung rear will sag over time, leading to sloppy handling, but rectifying most suspensionrelated issues is not overly expensive.

BODYWORK The vast majority of cars will have had some sort of body-repair work carried out by now, so don’t be too surprised to find filler and overspray around the headlights and rear quarters. Genuine Ford panels are difficult to find, and the quality of reproduction versions varies wildly. Capri Gear says Expressed Steel and Magnum

are reliable aftermarket panel suppliers.

Rustproofing was generally better on the Mk3s, but regardless of the variant rot is common and can be expensive to rectify if it has spread. Check the hotspots such as arches, door sills, footwells and A-pillars for signs of corrosion. Doors that sag when open could indicate worn or rusted hinges.

Most of all, examine the front suspension turrets from under the wheelarch, and the strut top plates under the bonnet.

INTERIOR The cabin was gradually gentrified over the successive generations, so parts are not always interchangeable between cars.

Aldridge Trimming serves the Mk1 well for most interior spares, but decent Mk2 and Mk3 cabin parts are much harder to come by, even secondhand.

The electrical system is simple and not particularly troublesome, but if you do come across any electrical issues, finding replacement parts can be a headache.

WHICH FORD CAPRI TO BUY Nearly two million Capris were built, but today’s rarity is due to the fact that many have succumbed to old age and rust.

Decades of neglect and low prices mean they didn’t get the attention they deserved, which makes quality models all the more special. Consequently, the most crucial thing to consider when purchasing is finding a car with a clean, rust-free body.

Prices for solid survivors have been on

BUYING GUIDE

FORD CAPRI MK1, 2 AND 3 MODEL HISTORY 1969: Capri goes on international sale with Kent 1.3 to 1.6-litre inline-fours for UK. 2.0 V4 GT and 3.0 V6 GT soon arrive.

Four-speed manual standard; threespeed auto optional on some cars 1970: Capri 3000E introduced with more luxury features over 3000GT 1971: Sporty 150bhp RS2600 features fuel injection, lighter panels and uprated brakes. 2600GT also offered, but with carbs and more luxury. Limited-edition Capri Vista Orange Special arrives, with additional cabin trim; 1200 made 1972: Mk1 facelift brings numerous changes, including updated lights and bonnet as well as new dash. 3000E discontinued and 1.6-litre Pinto phased in

From above left we have Mk1 3.0 GXL, specialedition 280 Brooklands and Mk2 Ghia with all-important vinyl roof

1973: RS3100 revealed with 150bhp 3.1-litre carb-fed engine and numerous suspension and body mods; 248 built 1974: Capri Mk2 introduced with comprehensive updates including shorter bonnet, more spacious interior and hatchback-style rear opening

the rise, which makes comprehensive restorations viable for rare models. Aside from the few special-edition and lowvolume models, the 3.0 and 2.8-litre fuelinjected cars are the highest valued. They provide decent performance accompanied by a beguiling soundtrack, and the Mk2 and Mk3 variants tend to have higher spec levels than the early examples.

While a pristine 1.3 or 1.6 shouldn’t be overlooked, their sedate performance may put some people off. If you’re specifically looking for a four-cylinder, consider the later 2.0-litre Pinto, which offers more poke and reliability than the V4s. Mods and shoddy repairs are common, so be careful. As ever with classics, buy with your head rather than your heart. Find the right car, though, and you’ll no doubt be taken in by this Ford’s retro charms.

Capri Gear kindly supplied the technical information found in this guide, and is Classic Trader’s recommended specialist.

1975: John Player Special limited edition; black or white paint and gold pinstripes

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre inline-four Pinto Power: 99bhp Top speed: 111mph 0-60mph: 9.9 seconds Economy: 26mpg (est.)

3.0-litre Essex V6 Power: 140bhp Top speed: 123mph 0-60mph: 8.4 seconds Economy: 22mpg (est.)

2.8-litre fuel-injected V6 Power: 160bhp Top speed: 131mph 0-60mph: 7.8 seconds Economy: 25mpg Poor: £7900 Good: £11,100 Excellent: £16,600 Concours: £29,400 (Capri 2.8i)

1977: Capri production ends for US market. Automatic ’box becomes standard on Ghia. Series X factory options offered. 3.0-litre cars get either 170bhp or 185bhp; other upgrades include limited-slip diff, larger ventilated front discs and Bilstein rear dampers 1978: Capri Mk3 on sale; visual changes limited to quad headlamps, modified bonnet and ribbed rear-light clusters 1980: Last year of Series X updates 1982: 160bhp 2.8-litre fuel-injected motor replaces ageing 3.0 Essex V6.

Five-speed gearbox introduced for this car early in production 1984: Last year of European sales.

Capri Injection Special offered with RS-style wheels and limited-slip diff 1986: Range trimmed to 1.6 Laser and 2.8i. Final year of production for Capri CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 95

BUYING GUIDE

1967-1980

Ford Escort Mk1 and Mk2 The Escort may have come from humble roots, but its rugged design proved to be a great platform for both reliable family motoring and the rigours of motor sport

W

Crossflow inline-four (although not in the UK) up to 1.1-, 1.3- and 1.6-litre capacities.

Then there was the rather more exotic Escort Twin Cam, fitted with a Lotusdeveloped 105bhp 1.6-litre DOHC motor.

Originally intended for the Elan, this was used in a handful of two-doors along with other modifications, to create one of the quickest and most desirable Fords to date.

The suitability of these little cars for rallying gave the works team a great base from which to develop its race cars, and the trophies kept on coming. One of the most notable was Hannu Mikkola’s win of the 1970 London-Mexico Rally in an RS1600. This also won the RAC rally three years running from 1972 to 1974. Limited

MAGIC CAR PICS

HEN IT COMES TO the Mk1 and 2 Escort, everyone of a certain age will have a fond memory of either driving or being driven in one. Released in 1967, it was a big step up from the Anglia although it remained a very basic car with a traditional rear-wheel-drive layout and MacPherson struts up front, with a live axle at the rear.

Clearly this is what the buying public wanted, as the Escort Mk1 became Ford’s most popular model outside the US, selling two-million units in just six years.

Saloon (two- and four-door), estate and van bodystyles were offered, with engines ranging from a tiny OHV 0.9-litre Kent

Interior parts are now easier to come by. Note the desirable ‘six-dial dash’ of this Mk1 RS2000

96 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

editions such as the 85bhp 1.6-litre Escort Mexico soon followed, as well as a more potent road-going RS1600 equipped with a Cosworth BDA DOHC motor, producing 115bhp. In 1972 the Escort RS2000 was revealed, with a less temperamental Pintobased SOHC 2.0-litre motor that offered up a slightly less impressive 100bhp but proved more tractable in daily driving.

For those with smaller budgets, the Escort 1300GT and Escort Sport offered slightly uprated 1.3-litre Kent Crossflow motors with a more comprehensive instrument panel (in the case of the 1300GT) or a sportier bodykit and more basic interior for the Escort Sport.

The second-generation Escort debuted at the end of 1974. It was offered in the

‘The market has long since been strong for rare and well maintained examples of both the Mk1 and Mk2’

same saloon, estate and van bodystyles as its predecessor, and also used much of the same running gear, but it had more angular panels and a totally revised cabin.

The new undercarriage had in fact been introduced in the last few months of Mk1 production, while the now-outdated leafspring rear-axle design was carried over.

Sporty Fords were once again a staple offering in the range, and included the RS1800, RS2000 and RS Mexico. The RS1800, in particular, was a rather special car with its Cosworth BDE 1.8-litre DOHC motor. More attainable 1.3- and 1.6-litre Sport models were also offered, and a lower-specced RS2000 was available near the end of the production run, too.

Rally wins weren’t in short supply this

time, either. Heavily modified RS1800s with strengthened bodyshells, 250bhp 2.0-litre Cosworth BDG engines and reinforced transmissions and suspension took over from the Mk1 RS1600 rally cars, and won the RAC rally each year from 1975 to 1979. Production for the Mk2 ended in the UK in 1980, by which time the dated layout was replaced with the more space-efficient, front-wheel-drive set-up of the third-generation Escort.

While the first two generations of the Escort were sold in a number of foreign markets, the UK provided by far its biggest customer base, yet despite this there are not that many good, original ones left on the roads today. Blame the weather and low prices, as well as the

many rally-converted examples for this.

Still, the market has long since been strong for rare and well maintained examples of both the Mk1 and Mk2.

ENGINE With Kent Crossflow OHV engines – the most common in the mainstream models – timing chains can wear. An excessively loud idle is usually a giveaway. The 2.0litre Pinto OHC was fitted with a cambelt, which requires replacement every 30,000 miles. Some cars suffered from camshaft wear due to inadequate lubrication. An oil spray bar was fitted, which helped, but these can get blocked if lubricant changes have not been adhered to.

Look out for evidence of cracked CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 97

cylinder heads or blown head gaskets.

Check under the radiator cap for signs of any mayonnaise-like residue, a sign that oil is mixing with the coolant. Minor oil leaks are not uncommon, especially some weeping around the rocker cover.

The more technically complex DOHC/ Cosworth engines will need specialist attention if an overhaul needs to be carried out. Worn carburettors can be the cause of a number of ailments, but replacements are easy to source.

GEARBOX The majority of cars had four-speed manual transmissions. Shifts should be smooth, and difficulty in engaging gears could be a sign that the synchros are worn.

Three-speed autos were also available, and aside from regular oil changes these robust ’boxes tend to last for years before requiring attention. Some cars have been

‘Replicas of the, top-spec Escorts are common, and they can be a more cost-effective way to experience these often pricey cars’ 98 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

converted to five-speed units, which makes for a less ‘busy’ motorway experience. This is especially noticeable on the sportier, close-ratio ’boxes.

even complete carpet and underfelt sets.

Aldridge Trimming provides replacement covers, door cards and other interior trim items for most Mk1 and Mk2 models.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

WHICH FORD ESCORT MK1 OR MK2 TO BUY

MacPherson struts up front and a live axle on leaf springs at the back did duty on both variants, although RS and Mexico models gained extra axle location. Worn dampers, tired springs and ageing rubber bushes are all par for the course, so check out for wallowing, clonking or excessive lean.

Most Escorts aside from the base models had discs up front, with drums as standard at the rear. Drums may bind on rarely driven cars, and lines can perish, but aside from that the basic brakes are robust.

BODYWORK As is the case with most cars from the late 1960s and ’70s, the Ford is very susceptible to corrosion. Rust can manifest itself in a variety of areas, from the front light surrounds to the bootlid. Particular areas to look for include the floorpan and sills, front wings and top of the struts, as well as the crossmember under the radiator.

New panels and even complete two-door bodyshells are now all available, at a price.

INTERIOR Retrimming any cabin is not as difficult as it once was, because now you can buy remanufactured parts from centre consoles to instrument binnacles, and

As with many budget cars built in big numbers, the Escort was used and abused for decades before it found a new lease of life as a desirable classic. Years of low values and indifference have left many poor-quality cars out there, and there are plenty of examples converted to look like RS and Mexico variants to be aware of.

Rust and poor modifications are common, so getting a specialist to give the car a once-over before buying is recommended.

Values for the standard 1.1- and 1.3-litre cars are still seen as ‘affordable classics’, with a big gap between concours-ready examples and rusty, renovation-ready ones. We’d avoid the 1.3-litre autos unless you are in no real hurry to get anywhere.

The next step up are the sportier midrange models such as the 1300 and 1600 Sport and 1300GT. These are still great fun to drive, and have yet to follow the RS and Mexico into the pricing stratosphere.

Replicas of the top-spec Escorts are common, and as long as you are happy with not having an original, they can be a more cost-effective way to experience these cars.

Poor: £8800 Good: £12,600 Excellent: £17,600 Concours: £22,600 (Mk1 1300GT)

Mk1 and Mk2 RS2000s. The polyurethane ‘droop snoot’ of the Mk2 RS2000 was unique to that model

SPECIFICATIONS

FORD ESCORT MK1 AND MK2 MODEL HISTORY

1.3-litre inline-four Kent (Mk1) Power: 48-71bhp Top speed: 85-95mph 0-60mph: 14-18.5 seconds Economy: 35mpg

1967: Ford Escort Mk1 replaces Anglia.

Available as two-door saloon in De Luxe or Super trim, with either four-speed manual or three-speed automatic. UK engines initially range from 1.1 to 1.3 litres

1.6-litre inline-four Kent (Mk2 1600 Sport) Power: 84bhp Top speed: 98mph 0-60mph: 11.1 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

2.0-litre inline-four Pinto (Mk2 RS2000) Power: 110bhp Top speed: 110mph 0-60mph: 8.9 seconds Economy: 25mpg (est.)

1968: Two-door estate and van, former with larger brakes and beefier rear end. 1300GT and Sport are entry-level performance derivatives; 105bhp 1.6litre Twin Cam available as range-topper

Mk1, more angular styling. Same range of bodies offered with 1.1-, 1.3- and 1.6-litre engines. Top-spec Ghia trim introduced 1975: RS1800 has Cosworth BDE 1.8litre DOHC. More mainstream RS2000 with 2.0-litre Pinto arrives later in year 1976: Mexico becomes part of line-up 1977: Range receives suspension update with damper and rear leaf-spring changes

1969: Four-door saloon introduced

1977: Final year of production for RS1800

1970: 85bhp Escort Mexico (1.6-litre OHV Kent) and 115bhp RS1600 (1.6-litre DOHC Cosworth BDA) introduced

1978: Mexico ends production

1972: 100bhp RS2000 with Pinto 2.0-litre engine revealed 1974: Mk2 production takes over from

1979: Number of limited-edition models introduced, such as Pop Plus, Linnet and Huntsman 1980: Mk2 production ends as new front-wheel-drive Mk3 gets phased in

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BUYING GUIDE

1999-2009

Honda S2000 As a back-to-basics roadster with a high-tech heart, the S2000 remains the driving enthusiasts’ choice

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2009. As long as the revs were kept above 6000rpm to take advantage of the valve timing, it provided rapid acceleration.

Externally there is little to differentiate a 1999 car from an end-of-line 2009 one. Bumpers, lights and wheels were revised in 2004, and an optional hardtop (standard on the GT), was introduced midway through production.

The majority of changes were carried out to the suspension and dampers; initial complaints of twitchy handling led Honda to continually tweak the underpinnings to improve the dynamics. The biggest changes took place in 2004; cars built from then on received wider rear tyres and were easier to handle when pushed.

A stability system was an optional extra from 2006, and was standardised from the 2008 model year onwards.

US and Japanese markets received a 2.2-litre engine with the 2005 model-year

HONDA

HE LATE 1990S SIGNALLED a resurgence of the roadster.

While Mazda cornered the entry-level market and Porsche took care of wealthier clientele, Honda’s S2000 slotted between the two – and beat them both for pure entertainment.

Upon its launch in 1999, the model ticked all the essential boxes, with rearwheel drive, 50:50 weight distribution, double-wishbone suspension and a shortshift manual gearbox. As a bonus, Honda added one of the greatest naturally aspirated engines of all time into the mix.

While 237bhp (247bhp in Japan) from 2.0 litres may not sound like a lot, Honda achieved this figure without resorting to forced induction. With a 9000rpm red line and two-stage VTEC valvegear, the S2000 had the highest specific power output of any naturally aspirated engine on sale until Ferrari released the 458 in

Basic interior is well built, but do check for damp carpets. Seating position is a bit high, too

100 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Honda’s S2000 slotted in between Mazda and Porsche offerings – and beat them both for pure entertainment’

update, which traded the effervescent top end of the 2.0 for a torquier low-down response. UK-specification cars used the 2.0-litre engine throughout, and while these do perform best at high revs, the later machines have superior low-end response over the pre-2004 examples.

The GT version arrived in 2002 and came with a hardtop as standard, so make sure this is included with any potential purchase. A final Edition 100 example was introduced in 2009. These cars were available only in white, with graphite alloy rims and red-leather interiors. As the name suggests, only 100 were built, making these the rarest versions.

Limited-edition Club Racer models and Type S cars were made available in

the US and Japan respectively. These featured numerous suspension changes and unique bodykits.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Firstly, specialists recommend using only super-unleaded fuel in the S2000’s F20C motor. Cars left standing for a long time often misfire due to old petrol.

Despite the high 9000rpm red line the 2.0-litre engines are durable, although they do tend to use a lot of oil and require a top-up every 1000 miles or so. Low levels and irregular changes are the biggest cause of problems with the powerplant; high-quality, fully synthetic 5w40 oil should be used.

Starting the car with your foot on the

clutch, and excessive clutch idling, are the main reasons for bottom-end failure, as such practices wear the thrust shells.

Because of this, the crank thrust should be checked every one to two years.

The timing-chain tensioner can fail, with a rattle on start-up being an early warning sign. A broken chain can cause serious damage to the engine.

Earlier examples had problems with the MAP sensor, which could cause running issues. This was due to vibrations working the sensor loose, and the issue can be fixed with a simple cable tie.

Honda’s VTEC variable valve-timing systems are very well known for their reliability, but infrequent oil changes can result in sticky hydraulic pins. Bearing

shells can also wear out prematurely.

The gearboxes are strong. Post-2004 models received upgraded carbonfibre components, which does help to extend the lifespan of the synchromesh ring.

Clutches on unmodified cars last well thanks to the low torque output, but be wary of highly modified cars.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Suspension bushes tend to require replacing after 70,000-80,000 miles, with the lower control arms being the weakest components. Front-subframe bolts should be removed and greased fairly regularly, because failure leads to an expensive repair bill. Rear shocks can weep from the upper seal; these are £400 each to

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 101

HONDA S2000 MODEL HISTORY 1999: S2000 (AP1) launched with 237bhp 2.0-litre engine 2002: GT with removable hardtop launched. Plastic rear window replaced with glass. Suspension upgrades carried out to improve handling

fix. Early cars developed a reputation for nervous handling, but modern tyres and factory suspension mods largely resolve this issue. Kits are available for early AP1 cars, which reduce their tendency to oversteer. Finally, calipers can seize, pulling to one side when braking, or squealing when applied.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Accident damage is not uncommon, and rust can manifest itself around the wheel wells and front subframe in particular.

Check the fit and finish of any modified panels; these can also hide rust spots.

The boot floor is a known rust hotspot, so check under the carpet for corrosion. This is most often caused by cracked panel sealant hiding just behind the two small upper plastic trim covers that sit just in front of the boot lid and are fastened with one Phillips screw each.

Rear rubber arch protectors hold in water and dirt, and promote rust. It is advisable to remove them from the car.

The interior is relatively basic and is pretty well built. Aftermarket radios are common, but the early Hamilton & Palmer alarm systems are known to fail. The roof can leak around the screen pillars, so check for damp carpets.

Worn roof catches can also rattle, but they aren’t expensive to rectify. However, if they are left to get too loose, they can cause poor top fitment and eventually lead to the roof failing, so it is worth 102 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

replacing them if this is the case. Later cars had a glass rear window, which is preferable to the previous plastic version.

The seating position is a bit high, and tall drivers may have a struggle to get comfortable. This isn’t helped by the fact that the steering wheel isn’t adjustable for rake or reach. Nevertheless, the pedals are perfectly placed, and drivers under 190cm should be able to find the sweet spot.

WHICH HONDA S2000 TO BUY Prices vary greatly based on mileage and condition. The pre-2004 cars also tend to be a bit cheaper than the later ones. Do not be put off by high mileages, but walk away if the service history is patchy or the car has been extensively modified. At the top end of the scale are the Edition 100 and very low-mileage run-out models.

There is no doubt that the S2000 will become a future classic. It combines the core aspects of a pure driving machine with a characterful engine, all without compromising reliability. The current crop of turbocharged sports cars offer a very different driving experience, and the high-revving, naturally aspirated S2000 will become an increasingly rare pleasure whose desirability is sure to increase.

Red R Performance kindly supplied the technical information in this guide. It’s the recommended specialist for the S2000.

Fair: £4500 Good: £6500 Excellent: £9000 (2001 AP1)

2004: AP1 facelift version introduced.

Major changes carried out to running gear. Additional suspension changes include structural bracing to further improve handling. Standard wheel size increases from 16 to 17 inches.

Steering ratio reduced by seven percent.

US market receives 2.2-litre engine (same power, more torque, lower red line) under AP2 label for 2005 model year. Japan also gets 2.2 unit 2006: Stability system becomes an option. Seats upgraded with speakers integrated into headrests 2008: Stability system standard fitment.

Suspension receives further revisions.

Club Racer introduced for US market – numerous changes made to improve on-track performance; 699 units built in total. Type S introduced in Japan with lighter body and high-downforce bodykit; 1755 units built 2009: Edition 100 launched in UK, limited to 100 units. Ultimate Edition released for European market. Final S2000 made, with 110,000-plus built over ten years

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre inline-four Power: 237bhp (247bhp for Japanese market) Top speed: 150mph 0-60mph: 6.2 seconds Economy: 28.5mpg 2.2-litre inline-four Power: 237bhp Top speed: 150mph 0-60mph: 6.2 seconds Economy: 28.5mpg (est.)

BUYING GUIDE

1961-1974

Jaguar E-type Every so often, a car comes along that seems to transcend its purpose. It captures the imagination with its performance, appearance and ingenuity; a true icon

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straight-six. Jaguar bullishly claimed (and just about proved) that its new car would accelerate from 0-60mph in under seven seconds and onto a 150mph top speed, making the E-type the fastest production car in the world. Then, there was the price. At £38,000 ($52,392) in today’s money, it was not only faster than its main rivals, but also half the cost.

However, the E-type’s launch was very nearly a disaster. The car arrived just 20 minutes before it was set to be revealed, after Jaguar exec Bob Berry famously drove 9600 HP, the Fixed-Head Coupé prototype, 700 miles from Coventry to Geneva.

Luckily for Jaguar, the car’s last-minute, rockstar-style arrival only added to the excitement. The subsequent clamour for test drives meant that 77 RW, the prototype Roadster, repeated the epic journey with

MAGIC CAR PICS

HEN DELIBERATING over British engineering icons, the Supermarine Spitfire quickly comes to mind; it was era defining, elegant and formidably capable. So, too, was this Jaguar. Fittingly, the E-type had its roots in the same British aviation know-how that gave rise to the Spitfire in the 1930s.

Its pioneering, aerodynamically conscious bodywork was the calling card of Malcolm Sayer, a war-time aerospace engineer.

The implacable Enzo Ferrari described the E-type as “the most beautiful car in the world”, so it’s fair to assume that the Jaguar’s aerodynamic bodywork contributed towards the pandemonium that ensued when the model was unveiled at the 1961 Geneva Motor Show.

So, too, did the promise of its 265bhp

S1 interior has the most charm but isn’t as comfortable as S2 or S3. New trim is widely available

104 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

the factory’s legendary Norman Dewis behind the wheel that very night. As a result, 500 orders were taken at the Geneva Motor Show alone.

Following the car’s release, the Jaguar’s future glamorous popularity was quickly realised, as contemporary stars such as Frank Sinatra and Steve McQueen were ensconced behind the wood-rimmed steering wheel. Sixty years later, the public’s affection for the E-type remains as unwavering as ever. This is exemplified by the array of restomod and continuation models that have been brought to market in recent years by companies such as Eagle and, recently, Jaguar itself.

Needless to say, several updates and amendments were made to the car during

‘Sixty years after the E-type’s launch at the 1961 Geneva Motor Show, the public’s affection remains as unwavering as ever’

its production run. A larger, 4.2-litre version of the straight-six arrived in 1964, mated to a full-synchromesh four-speed gearbox. A longer 2+2 Fixed-Head Coupé model with a higher roof was later added to the range. Further minor changes were made to Series 1 cars towards the end of their production run, before being replaced by the Series 2 in 1968. These are known colloquially as Series 1.5 models.

Series 2 cars featured several exterior changes to adhere to increasingly stringent US regulations. These included a wider grille and arches, relocated rear lights and wrap-around bumpers. The 4.2-litre engine remained, albeit with improved cooling. Air-conditioning and power steering were introduced as factory-fitted

options, and the interior’s switchgear, dashboard and seats were revised.

Ten years after that fateful day in Geneva, the third and final series of E-type was introduced in 1971. The last of the breed featured a 5.3-litre V12 powerplant as standard, along with uprated brakes and power steering. The V12 was developed by Jaguar for racing at Le Mans, and its 272bhp meant the car achieved 0-60mph in under seven seconds.

The Series 3 cars heralded the end of the short-wheelbase version of the earlier E-types, and were available only in longwheelbase convertible or 2+2 FHC form.

However, the overall design was less well received than before, compromised by the larger body and increasing aesthetic

impingement of US safety regulations.

Nonetheless, it remained a great car and offers a more affordable way into E-type ownership today than the highly collectible Series 1 models. Production ended in 1974 after a run of 50 commemorative Series 3 cars with black paint and cinnamon leather trim.

ENGINE The 3.8 and 4.2-litre straight-sixes are largely robust units if maintained properly.

The first thing to check for is the health of the head gasket. To do this, open the radiator cap while the engine is running; if bubbling, foam or white scum is present, the gasket will need replacing. Another indicator of gasket problems is water or

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 105

foam on the underside of the oil-filler cap.

Next, remove the dipstick and check that the oil isn’t too dark or gritty, and that it sits at the right level. If possible, a compression test is another effective method for checking the condition of the powerplant. A healthy unit’s readings should be within five to ten psi of each other across all cylinders.

If the engine runs rough, it means the carburettors probably need adjusting, particularly on the straight-six models.

This is difficult to get right, and is a task that’s best left to an E-type specialist.

Check the condition of the coolant and hoses, particularly on V12-equipped cars; problems here can cause warped cylinder heads and overheating.

Oil pressures should read at around 40psi on straight-six engines and 60psi on the V12. Beware of excessive smoke from the exhaust when the car is warm, and any rattling sounds on all engines; rebuilds can cost upwards of £6000.

GEARBOX A crunchy, hesitant change, or jumping out of ratio, could indicate underlying issues with the transmission. The early four-speed Moss ’boxes had no synchro on first and were generally recalcitrant, requiring a slow, careful shift. Check the biting point isn’t too high on the pedal, because changing the clutch is a labourintensive and therefore expensive job.

Jerky or clunky changes from the

106 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

automatic gearboxes point to possible issues, as does brown or burnt-smelling transmission fluid. This should be red if the ’box is healthy. Listen for any whining from the differential; if present, the fix costs £1000 excluding labour.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The E-type has complex independent rear suspension situated in a steel cage mounted to the floorpan. Up front, there is a typical double-wishbone arrangement with rack-and-pinion steering.

It might not be convenient, but the best way to check the health of the suspension is to get the car off the ground.

From here, you can inspect the steering column, wishbones and axle-cage mounts for play. It is also important to look for weeping dampers, worn suspension bushes and split steering-rack gaiters.

Finally, make sure the wheel splines are in good condition and that none of them is bent or missing.

Next, it’s time to check the brakes. The condition of the inboard rear discs is the most important aspect to consider, as these are difficult to get to and replace.

Additionally, if the differential leaks onto the rear discs they’ll need to be changed regardless of wear.

Many owners have upgraded the brakes, which is a good idea if originality isn’t a concern – particularly on Series 1s.

The car should pull up straight, and there shouldn’t be any strange noises from

‘The Jaguar E-type has consistently been regarded as one of the most desirable classics ever since the end of production’ the stoppers or shuddering through the steering when you press the brake pedal.

Make sure there isn’t any fluid leaking from the lines or calipers.

The self-adjusting handbrakes are known to seize on E-types, so don’t forget to make sure this set-up works properly.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR A rust-free, structurally sound body is the priority when buying any E-type, so try your best to cast a critical eye over the attractive panels; restorations are eyewateringly expensive. Look for poorly carried-out renovation work and evidence of filler. A freshly repainted car can hide many of these evils, so be vigilant.

However, corrosion is the most likely issue you will encounter, and this is unfortunately very common. The problem areas for rust are the floorpans, door

BUYING GUIDE

Purest lines are those of the S1, left. S2’s lights and interior, below, not quite as charming.

S3 V12, bottom, gained weight and is more GT than sports car

V12-powered Series 3 used a bigger body, which proved less popular than predecessors

bottoms, boot floor, rear-suspension mountings, back wheelarches and front valance. Rot can also affect the seams inside the bonnet and at the engine rails, particularly around the battery.

Panel gaps and seams should be even.

If not, the car could have been poorly repaired. The one-piece, front-hinged bonnet is notoriously difficult to fit correctly, so pay particular attention here.

Inside, check all the switchgear works correctly. Fortunately, most interior parts are amply catered for by aftermarket suppliers, so don’t be put off by a tatty cabin if the rest of the car is sound. Even so, a full retrim can be very expensive.

WHICH JAGUAR E-TYPE TO BUY The Jaguar E-type has consistently been regarded as one of the most desirable classics ever since the end of production.

Earlier Series 1s have always been the most collectable, but these consequently demand a large premium over later variants, particularly Series 3 examples.

Highly original, well maintained cars can run into the realm of several hundred thousand pounds, while well restored examples with reputable documentation aren’t close behind. The recent advent of restomod and continuation models adds another dimension to the market, but they are also expensive and highly sought after.

Whichever car you choose, the priority is finding an example with bodywork that 108 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

is uncompromised by rust; this is of far more importance than the condition of the mechanical components. E-types are in high demand and show no signs of any serious decline in values, despite a softening of prices over the past few years.

With all this in mind, it’s best to take your time and enlist the expertise of a specialist when sourcing your E-type.

Find a good one, and you have a bona fide British motoring icon.

Thanks to E-type UK for the technical information contained in this guide.

JAGUAR E-TYPE MODEL HISTORY 1961: Series 1 E-type launched with 3.8-litre 265bhp straight-six after its unveiling at Geneva Motor Show in Roadster and Fixed-Head Coupé form.

Earliest cars have exterior bonnet latches and flat floorpans 1964: Series 1 gets larger 4.2-litre straightsix, with same peak power but increased torque. New full-synchromesh Jaguar gearbox replaces earlier Moss unit

Fair: £25,600 Good: £42,700 Excellent: £64,900 Concours: £85,000 (S2 FHC)

1966: 2+2 Fixed-Head Coupé arrives with option of four-speed automatic ’box. Longer wheelbase and higher roof

SPECIFICATIONS

1967: Transitional Series 1.5 produced, with some changes to be introduced for Series 2. These include open headlights, new switchgear, detuned carbs, twin cooling fans and adjustable seatbacks

Series 1 3.8-litre straight-six Power: 265bhp Top speed: 153mph 0-60mph: 6.7 seconds Economy: 18mpg (est.)

Series 2 4.2-litre straight-six Power: 265bhp Top speed: 151mph 0-60mph: 7.0 seconds Economy: 17mpg (est.)

Series 3 5.3-litre V12 Power: 272bhp Top speed: 148mph 0-60mph: 6.4 seconds Economy: 16mpg (est.)

1968: Series 2 released. Retains 4.2-litre engine and gets wraparound rear bumper, larger front grille and relocated rear lights.

Power steering and air-con are optional 1971: Final Series 3 E-type arrives. Shortwheelbase body dropped, available only as long-wheelbase Roadster and 2+2 FHC. Straight-six gives way to 5.3-litre V12 1973: US-spec cars fitted with regulation rubber bumpers at front of car. One year later, these are introduced on rear as well 1974: E-type production ends

BUYING GUIDE

1959-1969

Jaguar Mk2 and Daimler V8 The Mk2 may have looked only mildly updated over its predecessor, but the changes turned it and its Daimler counterpart into even more impressive sports saloons

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automatic transmissions were offered on certain models. The 2.4- and 3.4-litre XK inline-sixes were carried over, while a new 220bhp 3.8 now topped the range.

The two large-capacity engines provided the Mk2 with class-leading performance, and the 3.8-litre car in particular proved to be a firm favourite with bank managers and bank robbers alike.

In 1967, for the final two years of production, the 2.4-litre car was rebadged as the 240 (with a mild power bump), while the 3.4-litre variant was renamed the 340 but survived for just one more year. A number of cost-cutting measures were introduced to help keep prices competitive, and at the same time the

MAGIC CAR PICS

ITH THE JAGUAR Mk1’s huge success, it was perhaps inevitable that any replacement wouldn’t deviate too far from that proven formula. Indeed, when the Mk2 was launched in 1959, it featured only minor visual and running-gear updates. Yet these changes made the newcomer a far more capable sporting saloon, especially when fitted with the larger 3.4- and 3.8-litre powerplants.

Visually, the radiator grille, glass area and foglamps were mildly redesigned, while the suspension set-up was tweaked, discs brakes became standard at all four corners, and power steering and

Worn-out upholstery is easy to tackle, but tired wood trim less so. Electrics can be an issue, too

110 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘The 3.8-litre Jaguar Mk2 in particular proved to be a firm favourite with bank managers and bank robbers alike’

3.8-litre Mk2 was discontinued altogether.

Jaguar’s purchase of Daimler in 1960 gave rise to the 2.5 V8, a car based heavily on the Mk2 but with the other brand’s own 2.5-litre eight-cylinder under the bonnet. Both automatic and manual boxes (with and without overdrive) were offered, and aside from the modifications required to fit the shorter but wider engine into the car, the 2.5 V8 was essentially a slightly more powerful and luxurious alternative to the 2.4-litre Mk2.

Updates during production mirrored those of the Jaguar saloon, and a slightly de-contented and rebadged V8-250 arrived in 1967. While the small Daimler was the marque’s best-selling offering to date, it occupied a slightly odd

place in the new line-up, offering more pace than the base 2.4-litre Jaguar but not quite having the same level of opulence as the top-tier models. Nevertheless, the lighter V8 gave it nimbler responses, and the Daimler was still an accomplished cruiser. Production for all variants came to an end in 1969 with no direct replacement, although Jaguar and Daimler fans could now move up to the recently introduced XJ Series cars.

ENGINE All three Jaguar inline-sixes are robust units. They benefit from frequent oil changes (every 3000 miles), but leaks are common and tappets need periodic adjustment. The cooling system can

develop problems if neglected, and regular coolant changes can prevent the alloy cylinder heads from corroding.

The 2.4-litre motors initially came fitted with twin Solex carbs, but the rebranded 240 variants got a straightport cylinder head and twin SUs that added an additional 13bhp.

Both the 3.4 and 3.8-litre cars came fitted with twin SU carbs, and there were a number of differences such as modified valvegear and cylinder liners for the larger motor. Most engines use some oil between changes, and a bit of smoke on start-up is not an issue. If, however, you notice a trail of blue smoke from the exhaust when pressing on, a rebuild may be on the cards.

The 2.5-litre Daimler V8 powerplant is

of a completely different design, and has pushrod-operated overhead valves. It has proven to be a strong motor that can last years between rebuilds as long as those fluid-change intervals are adhered to.

GEARBOX The early Mk2s came fitted with the Moss four-speed manual. Its lack of synchro in first means care needs to be taken to avoid damaging the ’box. Cars built from mid-1965-on had synchromesh on all forward gears. Automatics were either three-speed Type 35, D1/D2 or DG BorgWarner units; look for delayed or jerky changes, as this could signify that an overhaul is on the cards. Some cars have been swapped to a manual set-up over

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 111

the years, but check whether the gearing is right for your needs.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Power steering was optional and makes parking and low-speed manoeuvres far less cumbersome. Power-assisted cars from 1963-on had an uprated rack, which is less prone to issues.

The suspension set-up needs to be checked for leaking dampers, worn bushes and other age-related ailments.

Daimlers had different spring and damper settings due to the lighter engine, so bear that in mind if you are doing an overhaul.

Brakes are discs all round, yet not quite up to modern standards. Upgrades are popular, but the factory system has no particular weak points. The 3.8-litre cars came fitted with limited-slip differentials.

BODYWORK This is where you should be very thorough. Being Jaguar’s first unibody design the Mk2 is not just prone to corrosion, it positively revels in it. Badly rusted cars can look pretty good from the outside, but the evil lurking in the chassis legs, sills, floorpan and suspension mounts and can turn a potentially good purchase into a disaster. As a first step, inspect the more accessible areas such as the sparewheel well, wheelarches, jacking points, door bottoms and headlight surrounds.

Parts are still available, but the pricing and labour costs can put many owners 112 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

off doing a ground-up restoration job.

Examples built from 1967-on featured slimmer bumpers and overriders, and the spotlights became optional fitment.

INTERIOR Retrimming tired seats and door cards is not an issue, yet what can cause headaches are the numerous pieces of wood interior trim that may need refurbishing. Parts can still be found, but be prepared to part with a big chunk of cash if the cabin is in bad shape.

The electrical system is generally reliable, but the usual issues that plague old cars such as corroded connections and damaged wiring can make it labour intensive to rectify issues.

From 1967-on the renamed 240 and 340 received Ambla leather-like interior trim. However, the V8-250 retained its actual hide upholstery, and also got a padded instrument panel and reclinable split-bench front seats.

WHICH JAGUAR MK2 OR DAIMLER V8 TO BUY The market has long favoured the topspec 3.8-litre Mk2, with values for these cars significantly higher than for its stablemates. While it is true that the 2.4 models can feel a little underwhelming, the mid-range 3.4 cars are where our money would go. Hardly slower in the real world than the bigger-engined model, they are still relatively well priced,

although you may have to search for a bit longer to find a good one because most comprehensive restorations tend to focus on the 3.8-litre cars. Originality is not the final word with the Mk2, so don’t dismiss cars with sympathetically updated brakes, suspension or transmission.

Manuals provide better performance, but try to find one with the optional overdrive as it makes for far more relaxed motorway cruising. The threespeed autos are enjoyable, too, providing a more laid-back driving experience that is befitting of these luxurious cars.

Daimler’s V8 is an interesting option, too. Generally seen as a less desirable alternative to the XK-engined Mk2s, it is a relative bargain. The 2.5-litre V8 powerplant is actually lighter and gives better performance than the 2.4 Mk2, and because far fewer Daimlers were built, this little V8’s time in the spotlight may yet come.

Whichever model you opt for, make sure to have it thoroughly inspected beforehand. Worn-out mechanicals can be expensive, but a badly corroded bodyshell can cost more to rectify than the car is worth. In light of this, it may be best to get the cleanest one you can afford rather than spend all your budget on a project that may contain untold misery beneath its beautiful bodywork.

Fair: £11,700 Good: £18,800 Excellent: £26,900 Concours: £40,800 (Mk2 3.4)

BUYING GUIDE

JAGUAR MK2 AND DAIMLER V8 MODEL HISTORY 1959: Jaguar Mk2 introduced with 120bhp 2.4, 210bhp 3.4 and 220bhp 3.8-litre inline-sixes. Joined in late 1962 by Daimler V8, offered with 140bhp 2.5-litre V8 and detail changes to suspension, bodywork and interior.

Four-speed manual with and without overdrive (for Jaguar models only) and three-speed auto available, disc brakes standard all round 1960: Power steering now on options list 1965: Four-speed manual transmission gets synchromesh on all gears 1967: 3.8-litre dropped from range.

Remaining models renamed as 240 and 340 and lose some premium features, although 2.4-litre engine gets 13bhp power bump. Daimler 2.5 V8 renamed as V8-250 but keeps luxury features, and manual transmission is made available 1968: Final 3.4-litre 340 produced 1969: 240 and V8-250 end production

SPECIFICATIONS Daimler V8 (red, above) is lighter but less powerful.

Later 240/340 (below) had slim bumpers and lost the leather trim

‘Being Jaguar’s first unibody design the Mk2 is not just prone to corrosion, it positively revels in it’

3.4-litre inline-six Power: 210bhp Top speed: 120mph 0-60mph: 11.5 seconds Economy: 17mpg 3.8-litre inline-six Power: 220bhp Top speed: 125mph 0-60mph: 8.5 seconds Economy: 16mpg 2.5-litre V8 (Daimler) Power: 142bhp Top speed: 112mph 0-60mph: 13.6 seconds Economy: 16mpg

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 113

BUYING GUIDE

1968-1992

Jaguar XJ6 and XJ12 After decades in the doldrums, this stylish saloon is fast getting the recognition it always deserved are arguably the most collectable examples today, thanks to their rarity and visually pleasing exterior proportions. Many more 2.8- and 4.2-litre versions were produced, as well as a number of the ultra-luxurious Daimler alternatives.

The Series 2 cars arrived for the 1974 model year, and promised improvements in most areas. However, thanks to union problems in the factory and supplier issues, these models suffered from poor build quality and developed a reputation for unreliability. While reports of many of the Series 2 issues are justified, the majority of glitches should have been resolved in the intervening years, and well kept models should not be dismissed.

The majority of Series 2 XJs were

MAGIC CAR PICS

AGUAR WAS ALREADY WELL established in the motoring world as a manufacturer of luxurious high-performance cars when the XJ arrived in 1968. On release, the newcomer was met with enthusiasm from the automotive press and public alike. The first variants used 2.8- and 4.2-litre inline-sixes, but eventually an E-type-derived 5.3-litre V12 was shoehorned under the bonnet, giving the new XJ12 models a top speed of nearly 140mph. At the time, the XJ12 was the fastest full four-seater in the world.

The Series 1 V12s were available for just over a year, and just 3235 cars were produced. Of these, a mere 754 were the long-wheelbase variants. These models

Plushness aplenty, but luxuries such as air-con can be troublesome. Late cars were better sorted

114 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘On its release, the newcomer was met with enthusiasm from the automotive press and public alike’

produced in long-wheelbase form, adding four inches of rear legroom.

Improved automatic gearboxes from 1977, along with updated air-conditioning systems, made the Series 2 more pleasurable to drive, too. US-spec XJ12s received fuel injection in 1975, with the inline-sixes following suit in 1978.

Externally, the grille and various trim items differed from the originals, and to some XJ enthusiasts these cars are less visually desirable. Inside, the Series 2 received a thorough redesign. The rare and desirable XJ12C coupé models were introduced in 1975, and were produced for three years. Good examples of these rare cars are the most desirable of this era.

Series 3s arrived in 1979, and among

the updates were flush door handles, rubberised bumper inserts and a raised roofline. A sunroof and cruise control became options for the first time on the XJ, and all models now had a long wheelbase from the outset.

The 5.3-litre V12 also received fuelinjection in the UK, and in 1981 it got a high-compression cylinder head. This improved fuel consumption and raised power output. Production ended in 1992; these later models were far better built, and the improved electronics made for fewer reliability issues.

ENGINE Powerplants, especially the V12s, are very smooth, and this can mask potential

problems. Overheating can lead to major issues, so check that the cooling system is in good working order and the oil pressure is stable once the engine is warm.

Getting a specialist to assess the condition of the running gear is highly advised before agreeing on a purchase.

GEARBOX The Jaguar XJ transmissions are pretty durable. Earlier cars had a Borg-Warner Model 8 unit, which was not always a paragon of smooth shifting. This was upgraded to the much-improved BorgWarner Model 12 in early 1970. Later cars had a GM400 auto ’box, which should work smoothly and quietly.

Some six-cylinder cars could be had

with a manual transmission. These are strong, but low oil levels can cause issues including a delayed response when using the overdrive.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES XJ suspension systems are complex, especially at the rear, where the brake discs are mounted inboard. Binding pads can damage the differential seals, and the diff itself can leak onto the discs.

Clunking or jarring when pulling away could indicate a worn prop bearing or universal joint. Tired suspension bushes can lead to uneven tyre wear, so inspect all four and the spare. A knocking sound from the rear may indicate worn-out suspension or drive-line problems.

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 115

JAGUAR XJ MODEL HISTORY 1968: Jaguar XJ Series 1 goes into production in 2.8 and 4.2-litre variants 1970: Borg-Warner transmission upgraded from Model 8 to Model 12 1972: XJ12 introduced with 5.3-litre V12 powerplant; can hit 140mph 1973: Series 2 version arrives.

Longer wheelbase soon replaces short-wheelbase derivatives Series 2 coupé and 3 saloon contrast well, but allow condition to dictate which model you buy

1975: XJ12C two-door coupé introduced; 3.4-litre inline-six engine arrives as well

BODYWORK

1977: Automatic gearboxes changed to three-speed GM units. Production of coupé derivative ends

Rust is a common issue on all XJs. The poor rust proofing of the era, along with shoddy build quality (especially on Series 2 models), mean that the first thing to check is the bodywork.

Areas to consider are the bottom edge of the Series 1 bonnet, sills, wheelarches and spare-wheel wells. The battery holder, windscreen surrounds, footwells, bumpers, side members and suspension-mounting points can also harbour rust.

Replacement panels are hard to come by and not cheap, so make sure to do a thorough inspection.

INTERIOR Electronics can be troublesome, and wiring looms can get damaged, causing a number of faults. Various fixes and upgraded parts are available nowadays, so while these issues can be frustrating, a lot of them can be resolved.

Interior trim is generally durable, and second-hand items are usually available, especially on Series 2 and 3 models. Airconditioning issues on the later cars can be expensive to remedy, so a simple recharge may not fix all inoperative systems. It may also require converting to a modern refrigerant.

WHICH JAGUAR XJ TO BUY Values of XJs vary hugely. The most important factor is the condition of the

116 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

car, especially the bodywork. Prices have been on an upward trajectory for a few years, which generally prompts owners to take better care of their example.

Nonetheless, don’t forget that most of these models have been languishing at the lower end of the market for decades, so there are plenty of shoddy cars out there.

V12s are smooth and deliver effortless power, but mechanically they can be far costlier to maintain than the six-cylinder variants. Daimler models offer a touch more luxury, and values seem to be very similar to those of the rest of the range.

Prices of XJ12s range across a broad spectrum, and while mileage and model year do influence values, the car’s overall condition is paramount. Rust, poor residual values for decades and prohibitive maintenance costs mean there are few surviving examples. However, the ones that remain tend to have been well maintained; as such, a comprehensive service history is invaluable.

Any good-condition XJ is a pleasure to drive, but the later Series 3 cars do offer a number of worthwhile improvements that can make them easier to live with.

Take your time, make sure the model has a verifiable service history and pick a variant that suits your needs. You are unlikely to be disappointed.

Fair: £2700 Good: £6400 Excellent: £9600 Concours: £12,000 (1977 XJ6 4.2)

1979: Series 3 launched, flush door handles and updated lights introduced 1981: High Efficiency 5.3 HE powerplant introduced 1982: Trip computer arrives 1983: Sovereign HE introduced as top-specification model 1986: Series 3 six-cylinder XJ6 production ends. XJ40 introduced but not offered with V12 power until 1993 1992: XJ12 production ends

SPECIFICATIONS 3.4-litre inline-six Power: 161bhp Top speed: 115mph 0-62mph: 12.9 seconds Economy: 20-25mpg (est.)

4.2-litre inline-six Power: 186-205bhp Top speed: 119mph 0-62mph: 12.5 seconds Economy: 20mpg (est.)

5.3-litre V12 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

269-285bhp 140mph 8.3 seconds 14-19mpg

BUYING GUIDE

1975-1996

Jaguar XJS The XJS has taken a bit of time to be recognised as one of the pre-eminent classic GTs of its day. With values rising, here’s what to look for to avoid disappointment

R

EVEALED TO THE WORLD in 1975, there was no doubt that the stunning Jaguar XJ-S embodied the Grace, Space, Pace slogan that the marque aspired to imbue into all of its products. Initially, however, it did not enjoy the same kind of gushingly positive reception that its E-type predecessor had been afforded.

Replacing an icon with something so radically different was never going to be easy, especially when that replacement was a big, expensive 5.3-litre V12 grand tourer and the OPEC oil crisis had just hit. Perhaps inevitably, sales faltered in the early years, but Jaguar persevered and the XJ-S (later XJS) remained in production for over two decades, evolving into one of the finest grand tourers around and easily outselling the E-type.

The first big change that took place was in 1981, when the High-Efficiency (HE) variant was introduced, adding a bit of power while reducing the prodigious thirst of the big V12. Visual changes included body-coloured bumpers and a new design of alloy wheels.

Then, in 1983 a 3.6-litre inline-six was added to the range. Available solely with a manual transmission for the first few years of production, it gave up 70bhp to the V12, but was far more efficient and still provided plenty of power. Sales soon began to rise. A targa-style convertible XJ-SC was also introduced that same year, although it wasn’t until a proper drop-top was launched that customers embraced the Jag cabriolets.

The biggest updates came in 1991, when the inline-six was uprated to 4.0

‘The Jaguar XJ-S (later XJS) evolved into one of the finest grand tourers around, easily outselling the E-type’

litres, while the V12 got its own 6.0-litre upgrade a year later. The hyphen was dropped from the name and the styling was modernised; the rear buttresses that had been so controversial at launch become an integral part of the design. The brakes, gearboxes and interior were also changed, making these last-of-the-line XJ models the most resolved of the lot.

MAGIC CAR PICS

ENGINE

Locating replacement trim is not always easy, but Jaguar’s plush cabin is generally long lasting

118 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

Oil leaks are not uncommon, so thoroughly check the cam-cover gaskets and around the underside of the car.

Lubricant changes are recommended annually or every 3000 miles. Timing chains wear out on both the V12s and inline-sixes; a rattle at idle is a give-away

that all is not well. Worn-out exhaustmanifold gaskets are also common to both of these engines.

Slightly uneven idling and hesitation during acceleration can be due to a misfire, often caused by coil issues or badly worn spark plugs (especially on the V12s, which have notoriously poor plug access). Both engines are relatively robust if well cared for, but the sixcylinder cars cost less to maintain although they inevitably aren’t quite as smooth as the V12s.

The cooling system needs flushing every two years, because the radiators can get clogged leading to all sorts of issues. Overheating on the V12s is more common, and if the motor is clattery or

the temperature gauge moves past the mid-point on a test drive, it will quite likely need expensive work to get right.

GEARBOX The majority of V12s were fitted with the three-speed automatic transmission, which gained an extra ratio from 1992-on.

A handful of the early cars were manuals, while the majority of the inline-sixes were so equipped until 1987, when a four-speed auto became available.

All are strong units, but watch out for slurred changes and delayed kickdowns on the autos, and worn synchros on the manuals. The gearbox mountings on the later GM autos can also break, causing a knocking noise when shifting ratios.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES All models had disc brakes all round.

There are no inherent issues, aside from seized calipers on little-used examples.

Earlier cars equipped with inboard rear brakes are harder to work on.

The suspension bushes on the front end can deteriorate, so budget on fitting a new set at least every 60,000 miles.

Unevenly worn tyres are usually a sign that something is wrong.

Meanwhile, the rear suspension is tricky to work on, as it shares a subframe with the differential. Hub bearings will exhibit excessive movement if worn, but aside from ageing bushes or leaking dampers, there is not much that goes wrong on well maintained cars.

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 119

JAGUAR XJS MODEL HISTORY 1975: 285bhp 5.3-litre V12 XJ-S revealed, in auto and manual; 2+2 coupé only 1977: Automatic transmission updated 1980: Manual dropped for V12 1981: High-Efficiency (HE) V12 arrives, power up to 291bhp but with boosted mpg. New alloys and body-detail changes 1983: 221bhp 3.6-litre inline-six added, standard manual. XJ-SC targa-style convertible arrives, rear seats removed 1986: Fully convertible XJ launched, this time offered solely with V12 and auto 1987: 3.6-litre gets improved fuel injection and can now have four-speed automatic

BODYWORK The XJS is not known for its rust-free bodywork. While this is not dissimilar to other cars of the same era, the early models are particularly prone to rot. From 1991-on the shells were galvanised, but although this does make the later examples less likely to corrode, some areas will still need to be examined.

Wheelarches, sills and doors are rust prone; replacement panels are available, but if the floorpan is rotten then you might want to keep on looking. Repair costs can quickly get pricey.

INTERIOR Electronic issues are less common in facelifted cars, but you should still check that every button, gauge and switch is working as it should. Electric-window motors can fail, too.

Damp carpets are a sure sign that water is getting in the cabin, which can rust seatbelt mountings and damage wiring.

The interior is long lasting, although the wood veneer can peel off. Locating replacement trim is not always easy.

WHICH JAGUAR XJS TO BUY Produced for 21 years, the XJS went through a number of changes. Driving an early V12 and a mid-1990s example backto-back will starkly highlight just how much the model evolved. That said, the first batch of V12s fitted with a manual transmission are now arguably the most

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1991: Major facelift. Hyphen dropped; now XJS. 4.0-litre inline-six replaces 3.6. Regular layout replaces inboard rear brakes 1992: New 6.0-litre V12 and four-speed auto/overdrive. Drop-top also gets new engines. New XJ40-style dash binnacles

Drop-top model loses coupé’s distinctive rear buttresses, but looks sleek and stylish

desirable. Convertibles and Celebration variants tend to trade for a premium over the standard models.

Rarity aside, if you intend to use your XJS regularly the best bet would be a later 4.0-litre. It’s hardly slow, and both the manual and automatic models offer an enjoyable driving experience. They also benefit from the lower running costs and incremental updates that were carried out through the car’s lifespan.

High running costs and low values for years mean low-mileage mint-condition V12 models are now extremely rare and command strong prices. We would recommend going for the best XJS you can find, as getting a project back up to spec can be financially unviable.

Fair: £3800 Good: £5700 Excellent: £9100 Concours: £14,700 (1995 coupé)

1994: 4.0-litre unit gets new enginemanagement system, coil-on plug ignition and revised pistons 1995: Celebration for 60 years of Jaguar.

Diamond-turned wheels, wooden steering wheel and embossed seats 1996: XJS production ends; 115,413 built

SPECIFICATIONS 3.6-litre inline-six Power: 221bhp Top speed: 138mph 0-60mph: 7.5 seconds Economy: 25mpg 5.3-litre V12 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

285-291bhp 150mph 7.0-7.6 seconds 15mpg

6.0-litre V12 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

318bhp 160mph (est.)

6.6 seconds 15mpg

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BUYING GUIDE

1971-1990

Lamborghini Countach Italian stallion represented hedonism and excess upon its arrival five decades ago, and it still impresses as a design icon today. Be prepared for a wild ride...

E

alone gives you some estimation of what it must have been like, looking at the extraterrestrial wedge of hedonism and excess that this Lamborghini was in the ’70s. Few cars since have even come close to making such an impact.

Adding further to the shock and awe the Countach created, was the timing of its eventual production release. Back in 1974, the world was in the depths of a major fuel crisis, raising petrol prices to astronomical levels. Catalytic converters had been introduced in an admirable effort to fight pollution but unfortunately diluting engine performance at the same time, and bulky, unattractive front and rear crash bumpers had been enshrined

LAMBORGHINI, MAGIC CAR PICS

VERYONE HAS HEARD THE classic bedroom-wall analogies ad nauseam by now when talking about the significance of the Lamborghini Countach. So, let’s think of it another way.

The Countach, which celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2021, was unveiled at the Geneva Motor Show in 1971.

Fifty years earlier, the Ford Model T was still in production and the Austin 12 had just come out. It is difficult to perceive any car from the 1920s still being culturally relevant, or even capturing the imagination of young boys, in the 1970s, but that’s exactly what the Countach does today, five decades later. That fact

Extensive use of sumptuous leather gives cabin a luxury feel, but hide could be costly to replace

122 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Countach’s engine and bodywork became increasingly and unapologetically outlandish as the decades went by’

into American law. Cars seemed to be getting uglier, more sensible and slower; for enthusiasts, the Countach was a welcome escape from all that.

However, despite the model’s warm reception, the fuel crisis undoubtedly hindered the commercial viability of both it and its manufacturer in general.

Lamborghini eventually went bankrupt in 1978, only to emerge two years later under new ownership.

The Countach survived this financial turmoil, and remained in production until 1990. Just 1999 examples were built during the car’s 16-year production run, its engine and bodywork becoming increasingly, utterly and unapologetically outlandish as the decades went by.

ENGINE The Countach’s Bizzarrini V12 started life in 1963 in Ferruccio Lamborghini’s first model, the 350GT. It became the basis of every V12 Lambo until the Murciélago SV became the last car to use it in 2010.

Its longevity alludes to the integrity of its design, but that doesn’t mean it is immune to technical issues. The engine was originally a 3929cc unit, growing to 4754cc and finally 5167cc on the later cars.

Valve clearances must be adjusted every 15,000 miles. This is a labourintensive task and requires the removal of the carburettors, which are used in all Countachs other than the Americanspecification QV versions.

Oil and filter changes should occur at

least every 6000 miles. High-quality semi-synthetic should be used in this engine, and plenty of it – 16 litres, to be exact. The vast quantity of lubricant means the motor can take a while to warm up. When settled, the gauge should read at 87psi once on the move. If there’s oil around the sill area, check that the feed pipe which runs from the radiator back into the engine hasn’t split.

A spluttery powerplant most often points towards a faulty Magneti Marelli electronic ignition – a common problem on these cars. Most have been replaced by now. Coolant should read at 90ºC. It’s essential for you to find a Countach that has been well maintained and looked after; an engine rebuild costs £15,000.

GEARBOX The agricultural, heavy throw of a Countach gearbox is common knowledge and no cause for alarm. Second ratio is difficult to engage when the car is cold.

The ’box is located directly under the centre console. This means transmission noise is to be expected, but it is masked by the engine to an extent. However, if the gearbox is excessively vocal, the bearings could be worn out.

Replacing the clutch means removing the engine; an unsurprisingly expensive job. So be wary of the clutch slipping and a high biting point, and check when the unit was last changed, to save yourself from future expense.

Finally, the brake and clutch fluid CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 123

should be changed every two years. Slave cylinders also need replacing regularly, and doing so will prolong the life of your Lamborghini’s clutch.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES A unique feature of the Lamborghini Countach’s suspension is that it is almost free of rubber. This is good news on a classic car, as it prevents the issue of rubber perishing as the decades pass by.

Instead, the suspension uses racingcar-esque rose joints. The bad news is, repairing these components can be expensive – and there are ten on each side at the rear, where the set-up comprises lower wishbones and upper trailing links. Unpleasant noises from the back are often down to bad rose joints, but can also be anti-roll bar joints, too.

The front suspension is a doublewishbone arrangement. Front tie-rods

‘Lamborghini is well established as a flawed but highly sought-after machine, with many technical quirks and foibles’ 124 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

can easily be damaged if the car has been jacked up badly. Stub axles can fracture, but uprated aftermarket replacements are available that cure this problem.

Countach brakes are discs all round, and they require a very firm push from the pedal to produce the desired stopping power. Carbon brake pads are said to considerably improve this less-thandesirable Countach quirk.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The chassis is a steel tubular spaceframe.

It can rust, so do your utmost to verify the structure is rot free. The chassis is adorned with aluminium panels that can also corrode, particularly where glassfibre body extensions have been fitted. The later cars featured a steel roof, and all models have steel headlight pods, so be vigilant in these areas, too.

Check the quality of paint covering glassfibre components such as the engine cover and wheelarches. This can reveal whether the car is wearing its original finish; if so, you will see the glassfibre weave underneath the paint.

Bizarrely, the fuel-filler cap is located in the engine’s right-hand-side air intake, so have a look at the paint in this area for scratches from the car being refuelled.

Poorly fitted and rippled body panels indicate that the vehicle may have previously been in an accident.

The car’s air-conditioning is famously temperamental, and the windows barely

open at all, so to avoid a very hot interior it’s good to ensure the air-con is doing its job. Check the gauges and switchgear are working properly, and that the leather interior is in decent condition.

WHICH LAMBORGHINI COUNTACH TO BUY The Countach is well established as a flawed but highly sought-after machine.

Its many technical quirks and foibles that make it difficult to live with have been referred to endlessly – and besides, this is not a car to buy for rationality.

That said, it is far from a bad drive. It’s surprisingly compact; at 4.1 metres, it is only a touch longer than a modern Mazda MX-5, and it’s a mere 15cm wider than a Ford Fiesta. Later cars supply huge grip from the massive tyres, and the sonorous V12 is an obvious highlight.

The early LP400 models are the most desirable and expensive, but each variant has its merits – and the additions to the bodywork are a matter of preference.

Whichever you choose, make sure you get a specialist to check a potential purchase over before you buy it. Finally, ensure you drive it; there’s no better way to promote the Countach’s legacy than for people to see it in the metal.

Thanks to Lamborghini for the technical information contained in this guide.

Fair: £216,000 Good: £228,000 Excellent: £269,000 Concours: £331,000 (LP500S)

BUYING GUIDE

Outrageous styling is just as eye catching now as it was when car arrived in early ’70s

LAMBORGHINI COUNTACH MODEL HISTORY From unadorned 1971 Geneva show car (above) to the bespoilered 1980s models (left) and the body-kitted 25th Anniversary (above left)

1971: Countach LP500 prototype shown at Geneva Motor Show 1974: Original Countach LP400 goes into production with Bizzarrini 3929cc V12 1978: LP400S introduced with wider 345/35 rear tyres, revised suspension and rear wheelarch extensions 1980: Smaller carburettors fitted; power decreases from 375bhp to 350bhp 1982: Countach LP500S released with larger 4754cc V12 producing 375bhp 1985: Countach 5000 QV (Quattro Valvole) goes on sale equipped with larger 5167cc powerplant, four valves per cylinder, producing 455bhp 1988: Special 25th Anniversary model launched. Side skirts and straked air ducts added to bodywork 1990: Countach production ends, 1999 cars produced in total

SPECIFICATIONS LP400 4.0-litre V12 Power: 375bhp Top speed: 175mph 0-60: 5.6 seconds Economy: 12.0mpg (est.)

LP5000 QV 5.2-litre V12 Power: 449bhp Top speed: 185mph 0-60: 4.3 seconds Economy: 13.0mpg (est.)

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 125

2003-2013

Lamborghini Gallardo A great supercar when new, this model’s popularity has hardly diminished as it takes on modern-classic status

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HANKS TO PARENT FIRM Audi’s influence, Lamborghini has long shed its image as a maker of exciting if frail supercars. Thankfully, though, it has lost none of the unhinged madness that sets apart the Sant’Agata marque from its major rivals. In the case of the Gallardo, that unique character is thanks to the painstaking development work undertaken to differentiate it from the mechanically

126 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

similar Audi R8 V10, with which it shared a number of components. Continual refinements and updates kept the Gallardo current throughout its decadelong production run, and there’s a marked difference between how the first and last models performed and felt on the road.

The very first Gallardo coupé was launched in 2003 for the 2004 model year.

Its 5.0-litre V10 pumped out a classleading 493bhp to all four wheels, and it

could be had with either a traditional sixspeed manual or a single-clutch automatic E-Gear transmission.

Throughout its run, notable updates and changes were carried out on a virtually yearly basis until production ended in 2013. There were almost 20 Gallardo models in total, including limited editions such as the desirable RWD LP550-2 Balboni and the track-ready LP570-4 Superleggera. Engine capacity was upped to 5.2 litres in 2008, and power outputs rose incrementally over the years, topping out at 562bhp.

While the Audi connection has added a level of reliability to the Lamborghini supercar formula, don’t expect frugal servicing costs. After all, the Gallardo is still a proper Lambo, with many of the quirks and traits that come with a highly strung mid-ship supercar.

With over 14,000 units shifted globally, the Gallardo remains the best-selling model in Lamborghini’s long history. That makes for a lot of choice in the used market, but there are still plenty of things to be wary of before taking the plunge.

BUYING GUIDE

GEARBOX The rare manuals are a treat, and although they can be notchy in operation they are not prone to issues. The E-Gear transmission is a single-clutch automated manual, and is nowhere near as harsh as the modern unit fitted to the Aventador.

However, the shift action was still a little rough on early cars. The E-Gear was specced on around 80 percent of Gallardos.

Facelifted models have a revised E-Gear set-up that gives smoother shifts, and software updates can be applied to the earlier cars to help with this. Upgraded clutches were also introduced during the Gallardo’s production run. Clutches are pricey to replace, and the flywheel generally needs to be done at the same time. Their lifespan is driver dependent and can be as short as 5000 miles.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The suspension set-up is largely trouble free, but check for any cracked bushes or uneven tyre wear; this indicates worn shocks or bad alignment. The optional nose-lift system can fail if unused, and the anti-roll bar bushes may exhibit excessive wear. All this is cured by fitting uprated parts available from a dealer.

Steel brakes of varying diameters were fitted to the majority of cars, but carbonceramic stoppers were an option from 2007 onwards. Both set-ups work well, although replacing the carbon-ceramic version is costly. Aftermarket wheels are not uncommon, but this can affect

value so be sure to have the originals included in the sale if possible.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The aluminium chassis is lightweight, but repairs to it or the body are expensive.

Consequently, check for evidence of accident damage and that panels align properly. Wraps are a popular modification, and they can hide a number of bodywork issues, so approach with caution.

The Audi-sourced switchgear is hard wearing, and everything should work as expected. Unlike in previous Lambos the air-con blows cold, and the only wear and tear on low-mileage models should be on the driver’s-seat base and bolsters.

WHICH LAMBORGHINI GALLARDO TO BUY With the sheer number of cars on the road, and a relatively accessible price point, many Gallardos have been through a lot more owners and seen more regular use than you might expect. Prices vary greatly, as does the quality of what is out there. This is bookmarked by heavily modified early models with big mileage, and mint garage queens.

Keep an eye out for track-abused examples or ones that seem tired compared with the claimed mileage. In general, the later models (especially post2008) are the ones to have, thanks to the continual refinements over the years. Cars such as the LP570-4 Spyder Performante and both Superleggera variants are always going to demand big figures.

High prices should also be expected with the sought-after LP550-2 Valentino Balboni, which was the only rear-wheeldrive Gallardo produced (aside from a handful of one-off specials). This car also came equipped exclusively with a manual gearbox, while the vast majority of Gallardos had the E-Gear auto.

With so much choice out there, you can afford to be a little picky. Whether you are looking for an appreciating future classic or a track-day toy for the weekends, there is a Gallardo that fits the bill.

Fair: £55,000 Good: £65,000 Excellent: £89,000 (2008 4WD coupé)

LAMBORGHINI

ENGINE The earliest 5.0-litre V10s (2004-2005) have been found to have weaker conrod bearings than later models with upgraded components. The earlier cars were also plagued by oil-pump issues, so check that the pressures are correct and carry out a compression test if anything is suspect.

Sticking throttle bodies are a relatively easy fix by a specialist, but they do indicate that the car has spent much of its time idling around high streets instead of being driven as intended. The 5.2-litre engines introduced in 2008 offered more power and had direct injection, and no recurring issues have been noted with these units.

Spyder version arrived in 2006, and was also available in various special editions

LAMBORGHINI GALLARDO MODEL HISTORY 2003: Gallardo coupé introduced with a 493bhp 5.0-litre V10 for 2004 model year.

Six-speed manual and six-speed E-Gear 2005: Detail changes to suspension, gear ratios, exhaust and steering. Now 513bhp 2006: Gallardo Spyder unveiled 2007: Gallardo Superleggera arrives.

Lightweight panels reduce kerbweight by 100kg. Now 523bhp; 618 built globally 2008: Second-gen Gallardo unveiled.

New 552bhp 5.2-litre V10. Updated E-Gear has Corsa mode for quicker shifts. Both coupé and Spyder available 2009: New LP550-2 Valentino Balboni available solely with RWD and six-speed manual ’box. 250 produced globally 2010: Superleggera offers 562bhp and cuts a further 38kg off kerbweight 2013: Production ends (sold as 2014 MY cars). Final production just over 14,000, including a number of special editions

SPECIFICATIONS 5.0-litre V10 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

493-523bhp 201mph 4.2 seconds 20mpg (est.)

5.2-litre V10 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

552-562bhp 202-204mph 3.2-3.6 seconds 20mpg (est.)

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 127

BUYING GUIDE

1986-1994

Lancia Delta Integrale This Lancia was the most successful rally car ever. Its homologated road-going stablemate gave mere mortals a taste of the magic

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charms quickly emerge. The car still has extraordinary grip through tight corners, and it produces a satisfying surge of acceleration when on boost. Today’s crop of 300bhp-plus hot hatches may easily outpace it, but in its day the Integrale was as quick point-to-point as just about anything on four wheels.

Introduced in 1986 as the 163bhp Delta HF 4WD, this little turbocharged hatchback received incremental updates right up to the end of production in 1994.

The pinnacle of the Delta’s development was the 215bhp Integrale Evoluzione II models, whose acceleration would leave a Ferrari 348 owner in disbelief.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The basic Integrale block is solid, but many cars have been remapped and modified, which puts a lot of strain on the internals. Listen for a noisy idle because

MAGIC CAR PICS

ORN FROM A NEED TO meet motor sport regulations, homologation specials are some of the most fascinating cars out there. They tend to feature racebred components and unique features, which sets them apart from their less exotic stablemates and transforms them into engaging driving machines.

The Lancia Delta Integrale undoubtedly falls into this category. Developed to satisfy the World Rally Championship homologation requirements, it was one of the first hot hatches to effectively utilise turbocharging and four-wheel drive.

Piloting one today, the age of the platform immediately becomes apparent – the Integrale’s underpinnings were first used in the standard Delta model way back in 1979. However, as soon as you get accustomed to the turbo lag and relatively high driving position, the Integrale’s

some cars develop worn cam lobes, leading to camshaft damage. Smoky exhausts and a drop in power can point to worn valve guides, tired turbos, or both.

The limited space under the bonnet means that accessing certain components such as the turbo can be labour intensive.

As a consequence, rectifying a minor oil leak or changing a belt may cost more than you might assume.

Synchros take a beating, and crunching in any of the low gears may require a gearbox-out repair. The differentials are strong and should not be troublesome, although the front epicyclic diff doesn’t enjoy being launched. If the car has been driven hard, do be wary of this.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The standard suspension system offers a good compromise between comfort and handling. Some owners will have uprated the springs and installed strut braces, but this can negatively affect the car’s overall balance. The chassis can also develop cracks if a very stiff suspension set-up is installed, so it is best to avoid heavily modified examples.

A set of fresh suspension bushes and shocks on the standard system can make a big difference to the way a vehicle handles. Modified brakes are common, too. This is no bad thing, because the standard units are not entirely up to the task of regular hard use.

Integrale Evo models came with front strut braces along with upgraded Brembo four-pot front brakes.

BODYWORK Cabin shares much with standard Delta, meaning plenty of hard plastics and budget switchgear

128 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

The Integrale may look hardcore thanks to its aggressive bodykit (especially on

‘Integrale was one of the first hot hatches to effectively utilise turbocharging and four-wheel drive’

Remapping and modifying the basic Lancia block can put a lot of strain on the internals

later Evo models), but beneath all the plastic bravado is the shell of a late-1970s hatchback that was at its limit dealing with 200bhp-plus and a grippy all-wheeldrive set-up. The result is that some cars have developed stress cracks around the A-pillars and windscreen surrounds.

Rust can also manifest itself in the usual places such as the wheelarches, sills, rear subframe and floorpan. Not all panels are easy to source, but there are specialists out there that can rectify a corroded shell – for a price. Mopar and FCA Heritage have recently begun to offer parts for the Integrale, starting with genuine front and rear bumpers made using the original moulding equipment.

INTERIOR If the steering wheel is on the right-hand side of the car, you are probably sitting in one of the handful of dealer-converted examples. If the paperwork is not on hand to prove its provenance, however, you should probably keep looking.

The basic interior shares much with the standard Lancia Deltas of the time, meaning there are plenty of hard plastics and budget switchgear. Despite that, most of the materials are robust, although the seat bolsters tend to wear out and door cards can start looking tired.

Check that all the electrics work; some issues can be traced back to faulty fuses or earthing, but certain electronic components can be difficult to source.

130 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Drive it regularly to remind other road users that Lancia used to produce some of the world’s most desirable cars’ WHICH LANCIA DELTA INTEGRALE TO BUY With so many iterations and incremental updates carried out, it’s easy to get lost in the details. Values have not always been at these high levels, and many cars have been modified and crashed over the years.

Your primary focus should be to find a well kept model with a verifiable service history, rather than a particular variant.

Test more than one car, as condition can really impact on the drive. The later Evoluziones are the quickest and most capable, but few owners will be thrashing theirs on a regular basis – more so now that values are so high for these final cars.

For an equally engaging experience and a great nostalgia trip back to the 1980s, any of the earlier HFs will do the trick.

Find the best one you can afford, and drive it regularly – if only to remind other road users that Lancia used to produce some of the world’s most desirable cars.

LANCIA DELTA INTEGRALE MODEL HISTORY 1986: Delta HF 4WD launched with 163bhp eight-valve 2.0-litre turbo, seven years after introduction of Delta hatch 1987: 185bhp Delta HF Integrale 8v with larger turbo and wider bodykit arrives 1989: HF Integrale 16v now produces 200bhp, and its suspension and transmission are updated 1991: Evoluzione arrives with 210bhp; changes include a new exhaust and further suspension updates 1993: 215bhp Evoluzione II is final iteration of platform. Water-cooled turbo and 16-inch alloys among detail changes

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre turbocharged inline-four Power: 163-215bhp Top speed: 129-137mph 0-60mph: 5.7-7.8 seconds Economy: 20mpg (est.)

Fair: £16,100 Good: £22,400 Excellent: £28,900 Excellent: £40,100 (1987 8v)

Established in 2009, Classicmobilia is one of the most passionate classic vehicle dealers in the UK

Whether you’re at Classicmobilia to buy a piece of history or just to browse through our impressive collection, your experience, as our client, must be unique and make you want to come back for more. That is why our knowledgeable and professional enthusiasts in the Aston Martin world will do everything they can to make the process of buying, selling, or even admiring your next dream car as easy and hassle-free as possible.

We care about cars just as much as you do, and that is why we understand how important it is to own the one you desire.

keith@classicmobilia.com +44(0)7889 805432 +44(0)1908 270672

www.classicmobilia.com

BUYING GUIDE

1983-2016

Land Rover Ninety/OneTen/Defender

‘Ninety, One-Ten or Defender; it doesn’t matter what Land Rover model you go for; they’re all achingly cool’

A timeless icon and a British institution, the coil-sprung Land Rover is more popular than ever since it went out of production…

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new Land Rovers appeared in 1983, and was badged One-Ten, initially with a carry-over engine range from the Series 3 (2.25-litre petrol and diesel, and 3.5 V8).

The One-Ten didn’t initially replace the Series 3 109, though, and the two models were sold alongside each other until 1985, with the older version available as a cheaper alternative to the newer, more sophisticated vehicles.

The One-Ten was wider than its predecessor, with a wheelbase one inch longer – as the name would suggest. It

LAND ROVER, MAGIC CAR PICS

HE INTRODUCTION OF coil-sprung Land Rovers was rather a reluctant one for its British manufacturer, which was forced to modernise its utility models in the face of an onslaught of newer and more civilised 4x4s from afar.

However, the need and demand were there, so Land Rover set about applying the lessons it had learned with the Range Rover to modernise the leaf-sprung Series 3 models while retaining the basic Land Rover shape and look. The first of the

Later examples introduced more creature comforts, but cabins remained fairly straightforward

132 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

was a revelation to drive compared with the Series 3, especially from 1984 when the engine size was increased to 2.5 litres to give more torque and performance.

It would be another 16 months before a short-wheelbase, coil-sprung model appeared. The Land Rover Ninety was essentially a One-Ten with 20 inches lopped from the middle of its chassis, giving it unrivalled approach and departure angles as well as peerless off-road ability.

A turbodiesel joined the range in late 1986, giving respectable motorway performance, while the biggest change in the model’s life came with the 1990 model year, when the Ninety and OneTen names were dropped in favour of Defender, which sat better alongside the

new Discovery. Both the Defender 90 and 110 (now written numerically rather than spelled out) were powered by a new engine, too. The direct-injection 200TDi is regarded as one of the great Land Rover engines, with decent performance and an incredible reputation for reliability.

In 1994, the 200TDi gave way to the 300TDi, which was essentially a modernised and more refined version of the same engine. The downside is that the 300s were never as durable and were teamed with the weaker R380 gearbox.

Defender carried on unchanged until 1998, when Land Rover launched an allnew engine to coincide with the launch of the Discovery 2. The new 2.5-litre Td5 was a five-cylinder direct-injection

unit with much more refinement and performance than ever before. However, it was more electronically complex than the four-cylinder TDi units, and was viewed with scepticism by some traditionalists – while the old 300TDi remained in production via Land Rover Special Vehicles, primarily to serve military applications and export markets where the added complexity of ECUdriven electronics wasn’t welcome.

It was in this form that the Defender continued the longest, from 1998 until 2007, when it was given the new Ford 2.4 TDCi ‘Puma’ engine for better economy and performance. It was revised to 2.2 litres in 2012 to meet emissions legislation.

The last Defender – a Grasmere Green

90 pick-up with canvas tilt – left the Solihull production line in January 2016.

ENGINES With such a wide choice of engines on offer, the first question should be which one is best for you. As you may expect, performance and refinement get better the newer the model, but the best allrounder is probably the Td5. This has decent cruising ability and is still easy enough to maintain yourself. That said, the 200TDi is unerringly reliable, and is also a favourite of Defender buyers.

The earlier 2.5 variants probably are not worth bothering with unless you crave originality. The diesels are slow, the petrols very thirsty and the 2.5TD CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 133

prone to cracked cylinder blocks.

With the 200 and 300TDi units, the biggest threat is cambelt failure, while the 300s also suffer from fuel-pump issues.

The Td5 is generally pretty robust, but head-gasket failure is the most common foible, while water ingress into a fuse box mounted under the passenger seat also leads to some electrical issues.

The later Ford engines have so far proven pretty good in terms of reliability, although injectors sometimes play up.

GEARBOX Don’t expect transmissions to be smooth and simple – when you drive a Land Rover, you know that you’ve driven it. The earliest models (up to 300TDi) came with Rover’s LT77 transmission from the SD1 hatchback, and it’s a meaty unit with a heavy shift, but pretty robust. The later R380 gearbox (300TDi through Td5) is lighter to use but also more prone to wear, although it is unlikely to go bang.

The later models used Ford’s MT82 six-speed gearbox, which rarely seems to throw up any problems. Look out for transfer-box wear, though, and ensure it slots into low ratio as it should.

There was never an official factory auto Defender, but two-pedal conversions are available through a number of specialists.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Even in standard form, the Defender has ‘go-anywhere’ suspension travel. If you’re

134 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

looking for a capable off-road truck, you don’t need to do anything trick to the suspension – but that doesn’t stop the mud-plugging extremists fitting lift kits, mud tyres, and longer springs and dampers. Meanwhile, for road use, stiffer springs and polybushes further improve the Defender’s dynamic ability.

It all depends on what you need. The good thing is that the Defender is essentially a giant Meccano kit. Every part bolts on and off, while there are innumerable set-ups to play with.

Brakes are simple – the all-round discs are very easy to get to for repairs. Just bear in mind that everything on a Land Rover is heavier than on a normal car.

BODYWORK With the exception of the bulkhead the upper bodywork is all aluminium, and while oxidisation can make panels look a bit bubbly, they’ll never rot away. That can lead you into a false sense of security...

The Defender uses a traditional tworail chassis with crossmembers and outriggers, and it’s all mild steel.

The rear crossmember is the most vulnerable. Mud collects in the back, so they crumble from the inside out – and if you get a rust bubble appearing on the visible side of the crossmember, then it’s rarely good news on the other side.

Entire rear-chassis replacement sections are available, but they don’t come cheap.

The front outriggers that support the

‘If you’re driving a Defender in the wet, expect to get a bit damp as water finds its way into the cabin. It’s just a Land Rover “thing”…’ bulkhead are also extremely prone to rust, not least because they’re a natural mud trap. These outriggers can be cut off and replaced, or patched, while patch repairs are also common on the chassis rails themselves. Don’t be put off if a Defender has been welded, because in some ways this has saved you the money of having to get it sorted yourself. Do make sure the work has been done properly, though.

Meanwhile, the bulkhead is problematic – it’s the only mild-steel part of the upper body, and the sides, bottom edges and top corners are notoriously vulnerable. You can fix them, but it’s not easy. If you need a replacement bulkhead, secondhand, undamaged ones are pricey enough, while new ones are upwards of £2000. Chassis sections are cheaper, though, and are available cut to size.

The alternative is to go the whole hog

BUYING GUIDE

Land Rover’s legendary offroader is perfect for everything from the school run to adventures in the rough.

An abundance of specialists mean modifying, maintaining and restoring cars is easy

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 135

LR NINETY/ONE-TEN/ DEFENDER MODEL HISTORY 1983: Land Rover One-Ten debuts 1984: Land Rover Ninety joins range, along with new 2.5-litre petrol and diesel powerplants 1986: Manufacturer’s first turbodiesel makes an appearance 1990: Model range renamed Defender, with new 200TDi engines plus 90 and 110 model derivations The final generation of classic Land Rover is only gaining in popularity as the decades go by

and fit a galvanised chassis. You’ll need to fork out £2000 before you have paid out any labour, but you’ll be rid of any future welding worries.

INTERIOR The first thing any Land Rover driver worth their salt does when they open the driver’s door is to wind down the window. No, this isn’t some form of ritualistic owner weirdness; it’s simply a representation of the fact that with the window closed there’s no room for the driver’s arm or elbow. Ergonomics are not the Defender’s strong point.

Nor is watertightness. If you’re driving a Defender in the wet, expect to get a bit damp yourself as water finds its way into the cabin through the door seals, window seals, bulkhead seams and roof seams. It’s just a Land Rover ‘thing’…

Cabins are fairly straightforward. Seat bases can wear pretty quickly, but they pop in and out, and replacements are available from most specialists so it’s no big deal. Carpets or rubber floors are pretty simple and hard wearing, although roof linings have a tendency to sag like a Bedouin tent after a few years, and are often pinned back up.

‘The 90 is the better off-roader and the shortchassis looks are cuter, but the 110 is a more appealing “adventure” car’

1998: New Td5 engine developed in-house by Rover Group introduced, with five cylinder and direct injection 2007: Defender gets new Ford 2.4 TDCi ‘Puma’ engine from Transit, along with six-speed manual gearbox and substantial cabin improvements 2012: Engine size reduced to 2.2 litres to meet emissions regulations 2015: Defender ‘Heritage’ range launched for final year of production 2016: Last Defender rolls off Solihull production line on January 29

WHICH LAND ROVER TO BUY

handles, are popular with collectors as the first of the breed, but they lack the usability of later models. The 200TDi is actively sought after for its reliability, especially by expeditionists, while the later 300TDi and Td5 are also very popular. The later Ford-powered ones don’t have the same collector appeal just yet, with the exception of the 2015 ‘Heritage’ range, but in time they will.

Then it’s a question of long or short wheelbase. The 90 is the better off-roader and the short-chassis looks are cuter, but the 110 (which seats up to 12) is a more appealing ‘adventure’ car as well as being a favoured family choice. It doesn’t matter what you go for; they’re all achingly cool.

There are compelling reasons to buy a Ninety, One-Ten or Defender. The early cars, identifiable by their sculpted door

Fair: £4000 Good: £10,000 Excellent: £25,000 (110 200TDi)

136 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

1994: Defender gets new 300TDi engine and R380 gearbox, shared with Rover 800 saloon

SPECIFICATIONS One-Ten 2.5 petrol Power: 75bhp Top speed: 78mph 0-60mph: 29.7 seconds Economy: 22mpg Defender 110 200TDi Power: 115bhp Top speed: 88mph 0-60mph: 18.8 seconds Economy: 29mpg Defender 90 2.4 TDCi Power: 120bhp Top speed: 90mph 0-60mph: 14.5 seconds Economy: 34mpg

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BUYING GUIDE

1962-1974

Lotus Elan It’s the little British sports car that put Lotus back on the map and set the template for all roadsters to follow

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Elans had an upgraded four-cylinder engine with revised conrods, crankshaft and oil seals, giving improved reliability.

The unit may not sound powerful today, but the car’s lightness compensated for this. A contemporary Porsche 911 901 put out 130bhp and hit 0-60mph in 8.7 seconds.

An early Elan could reach 60mph in under nine seconds; later cars, less than eight.

Sublime handling and such impressive acceleration meant the car quickly found its way onto tracks, despite Chapman’s assertion that: “It is not intended for racing, and we have done no competition development.” The demands of the circuit quickly exposed the Elan’s weak points, despite its obvious potential.

The car is famous for tearing through its rubber ‘rotoflex’ rear couplings, but the truth is that the entire driveline was underdeveloped; hard-driven Elans would routinely go through diff, centre and hub

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE ELAN WAS LAUNCHED at the 1962 Earls Court Motor Show, replacing the innovative but problematic Elite. Its clean lines concealed the ingredients that have come to characterise the modern sports car recipe; there’s a reason Mazda’s MX-5 looks so much like this classic Lotus.

Colin Chapman’s latest creation was a lightweight, aerodynamic sports car with fully independent suspension, all-round disc brakes and a twin-cam engine. The Elan was the first car built around Lotus’s innovative steel-backbone chassis, which would later be used in the Europa, Esprit and Eclat families.

The four-cylinder motor was originally a Ford Cortina bottom end mated to Lotus’s head. The result was 105-108bhp in S1s, increasing to 115bhp in the Special Equipment cars. SEs also got the benefit of servo-assisted brakes, while S3 and S4

Originality is desirable, but cabin parts and retrims are comprehensively covered by aftermarket

138 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘A good Elan comes with considerable cost – but if you drive one, it won’t take long to understand why’

shafts. Alarmingly, if the latter failed, the car could end up dispensing its rear wheels without notice. These issues were exacerbated by Lotus’s use of Ford Anglia rear shock absorbers; these were too long when fully extended and caused dangerous positive camber and stress through the rear wheels and rotoflex couplings.

A S1 Type 26R racing version, released in 1964, addressed the shock-absorber issue while also adding power and decreasing weight. Development of this model increased by the end of 1964 before the S2 version was released. The S2 Type 26R produced more torque than the S1, and it now had a new driveline, largely curing the related problems before production ceased in 1967. Lotus made 52

of the S1 Type 26Rs and 43 S2 versions.

The Series 3 Elan was released in 1965 as a fixed-head coupé, followed in early 1966 by the drophead coupé. Various revisions were made to their interiors, including full carpeting and electric windows. Series 3s continued the SE trim, which offered slightly more power.

In 1967 the Elan +2 hardtop arrived. Its lengthened and widened chassis allowed for rear seating as well as superior handling to that of the original bodystyle, but the extra weight made it slower. Only 330 of these cars remain of 1100 Elans sold worldwide. Demand for +2 models has been increasing in recent years.

The Series 4 Elan superseded the Series 3 in 1968, and heralded the introduction

of wider-section tyres and flared arches.

Interestingly, the revised taillamps and switchgear on S4 models are related to those found on Jaguar’s E-type.

The Sprint was available in 1971, and its rapid acceleration was comparable with the fastest cars of the day; its 6.6-second 0-60mph time is still fast by modern standards. Even so, acceleration statistics must be taken with a grain of salt, because there are reports of blueprinted engines being used in journalists’ test cars.

A decent Elan has always commanded strong money, and now its status as a seminal classic has been established, this trend is set to continue. A good car comes with considerable cost – but if you drive one, it won’t take long to understand why.

ENGINE The Elan’s Ford-derived engine is a venerable unit and pretty durable if maintained properly. However, when things do go wrong, fixes are usually very expensive; £5000-6000 for a rebuild.

Once sorted, motors are reliable and can be expected to last the owner’s lifetime.

The twin-Stromberg carbs used on US cars are less desirable than the Weberequipped engines found in Europe, but these can be converted with a new head to accommodate a camshaft conversion.

With a warm engine, oil pressure should read 40psi while on the move and 20psi at idle. Beware of blue exhaust smoke, as well as a whining or clattering noise from under the bonnet; this often CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 139

indicates a badly adjusted timing chain.

Overheating is one of the Elan’s main weaknesses, particularly on the S3 and S4. This is because the S3s switched to a smaller Triumph radiator, which became an even narrower and cheaper unit in the S4. The S4 rad was also used in the Sprint, whose additional power assured the risk of overheating. Tony Thompson Racing recommends that owners fit an alloy crossflow radiator, rather than a cheaper up/down unit. If you combine this with a swirl pot to remove air from the coolant system, it’ll eradicate overheating issues.

The additional gain is that the Elan’s engine benefits from cooler running, because it produces its maximum power at around 75ºC. For a standard model, the normal temperature sits at 90-95ºC, which is bordering on dangerous to begin with. Make sure the car is running a highquality pre-mixed anti-freeze, as this is an essential part of a good cooling system.

A leaking water pump can also cause an overheating engine. Replacing it is labour intensive, so check for play and leaks.

A failed pump can destroy the powerplant, meaning the assured health and quality of this component is imperative.

Finally, correct oil level is crucial for the engine’s health. Tony Thompson Racing recommends it should read at least at the top of the dipstick’s recommended mark, and ideally 1cm above it. This prevents lubricant starvation when cornering hard, and gives a buffer should the motor burn 140 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

any oil when running. An engine that is low by merely a quart of oil can wear prematurely, so owners need to be vigilant.

GEARBOX Most Elans have Ford’s reliable 2000E four-speed manual. The earliest cars’ closeratio version is also largely trouble-free.

The +2 S130/5 was the only Elan fitted with a five-speeder from the factory, which was sourced from the Austin Maxi.

However, even when in good condition the S130/5’s gearbox has poorly selected ratios and a sloppy shift feel, so watch out for this when choosing your car. A noisy, crunchy ’box means a rebuild is imminent, which is an expensive undertaking.

The differential is Cortina based but uses a Lotus-specific rear-carrier casing, which means internal parts are easy to source. If the differential is whiny when moving, or leaking from the pinion seal,

‘Same basic engine powers all Elans, in various states of tune. Whichever you choose, it’s a bona fide driver’s car with real thrills’

it will undoubtedly need refurbishing.

Drivelines are a notorious Elan problem area. The incorporated rubber rotoflex couplings rot over time, and the rest of the set-up is also sub-standard. Perished couplings can be dangerous and give the rear a soft, squishy feeling. As a result, many owners have modernised the entire driveline using sturdier splined replacements. New rubber couplings are best avoided, as modern versions are even weaker than the originals due to an EU ban on the chemicals used to make them.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The original Anglia-derived rear shocks were the incorrect stroke for the car, and can be improved with quality aftermarket replacements. These make the car safer, and stop an unwelcome tendency to roll in corners. Rotoflex couplings exacerbate this undesirable characteristic, as they give a billowy, inconsistent spring rate.

Most cars have had a new steel-backbone chassis by now. A full suspension alignment is usually done at the same time, so uneven tyre wear shouldn’t be prevalent.

Check that the wishbones and suspension arms are straight, particularly if a wheel has been kerbed. The tyres should not touch the anti-roll bars on full lock. If they do, the wrong steering rack may be fitted.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The glassfibre body means rust isn’t an issue – but the material can present just

LOTUS ELAN MODEL HISTORY 1962: Elan 1500 roadster launched 1963: Twin-cam 1.6-litre replaces 1500 after 22 are built. Hardtop now available 1964: Series 2 released with larger front calipers, new wooden dash and rear lights Drop-top offers wind-in-hair fun, while lengthened and widened chassis of +2 models allows for rear seating

as many problems. Cracks and crazing are very common, particularly if substandard repairs have been carried out. Problem areas include around the badges, door handles and boot hinges. Bodyshell repairs should only have been done by glassfibre specialists.

Beware of recent repaints, which in the short term can hide imperfections in the material underneath. Months down the line, the paint may crack. Door fitment from the factory was poor, so don’t be too alarmed by uneven panel gaps.

Original chassis were known to rust, and many have been replaced by galvanised assemblies. Poor examples of these can warp, due to their manufacture’s high temperature requirements. Such a frame will be hard to set up properly, and the engine and ’box won’t fit as they should.

Non-original chassis designs also harm resale values and wildly vary in quality.

If you’re looking at an original frame, check for rust around the front-suspension mounting points in particular. Avoid chassis that have had welding fixes; these can invalidate your insurance. Tony Thompson Racing recommends fitting a Type 26R chassis. These are twice as strong and instantly add value to the car.

It is suggested that prospective buyers budget for a chassis replacement when looking for their Elan.

The cabin is comprehensively covered by the aftermarket, but originality is desirable. Mick Miller Lotus is known to

supply very high-quality retrim services.

Elans suffer from electrical issues due to poor earthing on the glassfibre body, so check for flickering or malfunctioning cabin lights. Ensure all dash gauges work properly and that the roof is in good order.

A modern alternator, ignition and starter are recommended, all of which are offered by Tony Thompson Racing.

WHICH LOTUS ELAN TO BUY From a mechanical viewpoint all Elans are relatively similar, and there wasn’t that much development during its run. Despite this, there are a lot of variants and bodies.

The most popular cars are the twoseater convertibles, but fixed-head coupés and +2 models are also viable options.

In particular, the +2 offers far greater practicality, and allows you to take more than one passenger along for the ride.

The same basic engine powers all cars, in various states of tune. The Sprints are fast even by today’s standards, but even the lowest-powered variants offer ample performance for most buyers. Whichever Elan you choose, it’s a bona fide driver’s car that thrills on any given B-road.

Tony Thompson Racing kindly supplied the technical information and expertise found in this guide, and is Classic Trader’s recommended specialist for buying, maintaining and improving your Elan.

Fair: £14,900 Good: £24,800 Excellent: £34,900 Concours £45,900 (S3 dhc)

1965: Series 3 fixed-head coupé arrives.

Power windows and close-ratio ’box option 1966: New Special Equipment has 115bhp engine, close-ratio ’box, servo brakes, front-wing indicators and centre-lock rims. Series 3 drop-top has fhc’s updates 1967: Elan +2 launched. Longer and wider with fixed roof and 118bhp 1968: Series 4 arrives. Flared arches and updated rear lights. New switches and facia. Bonnet now bulges. +2 S offered, too; higher-quality interior and standard fogs. First Elan not to be offered in kit form 1969: Elan +2 ends, but +2 S is still built 1971: New Sprint has 126bhp and twotone paint. Single-tone paint optional. +2 S130 gets same engine and silver roof 1972: Five-speed ’box now available on +2 S130 – badged +2 S130/5 1973: S4 discontinued 1974: Sprint and S130 production ends

SPECIFICATIONS Lotus Elan S1 & S2 (1.6-litre inline-four) Power: 105bhp Top speed: 114mph 0-60mph: 8.8 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

Lotus Elan SE (1.6-litre inline-four) Power: 115bhp Top speed: 118mph 0-60mph: 7.6 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

Lotus Elan +2S130 (1.6-litre inline-four) Power: 126bhp Top speed: 120mph 0-60mph: 7.5 seconds Economy: 26mpg (est.)

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 141

BUYING GUIDE

1996-PRESENT

Lotus Elise

The Elise put Lotus back on the map in the 1990s, and it still offers the pure driving experience on which Colin Chapman built his reputation

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weight, due partially to increased safety regulations and also to the addition of a few creature comforts. Nonetheless, they still offer a level of driver involvement that is missing in all but the most dedicated track cars.

If you want the purest Elise experience, the early Series 1 cars are the ones for you.

Fitted with the Rover K-series engine and very basic specifications (no power assistance or driver aids of any kind), it is one of the best-handling and most responsive models available, all thanks to ‘adding lightness’. The 111S and more powerful, track-focused 340R rounded off the first-generation cars, and by the time the Series 2 arrived in time for the 2001 model year, the planned production limit of 2500 had been stretched to 9000.

The Series 2 featured a number of changes to make it compliant with

LOTUS CARS, MAGIC CAR PICS

HILE LOTUS HAS produced many groundbreaking sports cars in its long history, by the mid-1990s the allure of its ageing Esprit was waning. Its other offering at this time was the front-wheel-drive Elan, which may have been capable but wasn’t what enthusiasts were looking for. The Elise’s arrival in 1996 was a true return to form; it didn’t pretend to be anything other than a distilled driving tool, complete with a communicative chassis and excellent steering feel. These qualities continue to define the range 25 years on.

Lotus initially planned to produce a few thousand cars and then end production in 2000, but strong demand made sure that never happened; the little sports car is now well into its third generation. These later versions have slowly increased in

Basic interior has little to go wrong, but check the heater and air-con – if fitted – work properly

142 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

increasingly stringent emissions and safety regulations. Initially models were offered with the Rover K-series motor as in the Series 1, but emissions requirements saw the powertrain changed to Toyotasourced engines in 2004.

The addition of ABS, air-conditioning and electric windows in some models meant additional weight, yet the boosted power outputs ensured performance did not suffer. The 111S was reintroduced with the Rover K-series, but lasted only until 2005 when the Rover engine was phased out in favour of Toyota’s ZZ unit.

Other track-focused cars introduced were the 135R and Sport 190, with more power and handling upgrades. Vauxhall’s very capable VX220 was developed from

‘It didn’t pretend to be anything other than a distilled driving tool, with a communicative chassis and excellent steering feel’

the Series 2 chassis. When the Series 3 cars were introduced for the 2011 model year, they continued with Toyota engines and added a few more kilograms in the form of safety equipment and additional specification. They are more sophisticated and better equipped than the original Elise, and are more usable as everyday transport, too. Even though some of the delicacy of the Series 1 cars has been lost, you would have to be familiar with both models to notice a difference.

Parts are widely available from specialists, but Lotus has also introduced its own programme offering keenly priced genuine spares. Running costs are reasonable, and generally the Elise is a reliable vehicle. A number of recalls were

carried out, so in order to avoid future issues do check whether your specific model has had these addressed.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The Rover K-series engine found in Series 1 and early Series 2 cars is generally robust, but leak-prone radiators saw uprated aluminium replacements fitted in many cars. Another common issue is the head gasket blowing if the engine overheats. Fuel-injection pump fuses were uprated from 1998-on and are worth retrofitting to older cars.

Over-revving can lead to cracked cylinder liners, identified by an excessively smoking exhaust. A specialist can do an ECU dump for you to reveal whether

the car has been regularly over-revved or driven excessively hard.

Cambelts need changing every four years or 54,000 miles, but it is worth doing earlier if regular track driving is planned. Toyota engines have camchains instead, and while to a casual observer these seem to be the models to have, Elise owners are split into two camps.

Transmissions are durable but cables can often stretch with age, requiring replacements. Earlier cars had unbraided rubber hoses to the clutch, making the unit function erratically. Braided items can be retrofitted, and newer cars should have them installed from the factory. Synchros can get worn on second and third gear, and linkages can also wear. Series 2-on cars CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 143

LOTUS ELISE MODEL HISTORY 1996: 118bhp 1.8-litre Elise Series 1 arrives 1998: 145bhp Sport 135 released 1999: 111S, up to 143bhp, closer-ratio ’box 2000: 180bhp 340R circuit car, Track Pack option pushes power to 190bhp.

Sport 160 has 160bhp; Sport 190 190bhp 2001: Series 2. 111S has 160bhp. 135R (or Sport 111) and Sport 190 track cars 2005: Toyota units across range. 190bhp 111R replaces Rover-powered 111S 2006: ECU updates, LED rear lights

had revised linkages between the lever and transmission to minimise this.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Steering racks can cause issues, so make sure the car responds crisply to inputs.

Suspension components tend to be hard wearing, but problems such as cracked rubber mountings and worn shocks or bushes are hard to verify unless you know what to look for. Consequently, it’s a good idea to ask a specialist to give a potential purchase a once-over.

Series 1 cars have a tendency to corrode around the front-suspension mounting points. Some owners have found that the sports exhausts tend to wear out quickly; the standard items are longer lasting.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR The tub features aluminium panels glued to the chassis. Rust tends to crop up only in the steel subframe, although corrosion in the footwell floor is common in Series 1 and early Series 2s.

The chassis is extremely strong and rigid, but repairing a damaged one can be very labour intensive. The same applies to the glassfibre body panels – so if the car you’re considering has been involved in an accident, you’d be wise to keep looking.

LED rear lights on the first batch of Series 2s can malfunction, but later cars have improved units. Window-winder mechanisms tend to suffer various issues, and can be repaired by specialists to save 14 4 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

on replacement costs. There is little else to go wrong in the spartan cabin, but check the heater works, especially in Series 2s.

If air-conditioning is fitted, ensure the system is working correctly. Modules can fail and the front-to-rear pipes can also corrode, which is costly to rectify; broken air-con rarely involves just a re-gas.

WHICH LOTUS ELISE TO BUY While the design brief has remained unchanged throughout the Elise’s run, safety regulations and beefier powertrains have added a bit of weight to the later models. New cars offer the safety net of a manufacturer’s warranty, but the Elise is a tough little sports car and decent used examples can be found for far less. Most are well cared for and do not generally rack up big mileages. Watch out for overly modified or track-abused examples.

The early Series 1 cars are the purest of the lot, but there is a lot to like about the Series 2 and 3 with their more reliable, Toyota-sourced powertrains. The trackfocused Cup variants are absolutely ideal for weekend blasts, yet even the least powerful Elise will have you smiling as you blast down a winding country road.

All technical information in this guide was kindly supplied by Allon White Sports Cars, which is a recommended specialist for the Lotus Elise.

Fair: £8500 Good: £12,800 Excellent: £16,400 Concours: £24,100 (Series 1)

2007: Base Elise S has 134bhp and five-speed ’box. 111R renamed Elise R 2008: 218bhp supercharged Elise SC arrives, with six-speed gearbox 2010: Series 3 introduced. Base 1.6 has same 134bhp as outgoing 1.8. S and S Cup get supercharged 1.8 2015: Base, S and S Cup. Comfort Pack adds central locking and soundproofing.

217bhp Cup 220 more track focused 2016: 245bhp Cup 250 introduced 2017: 250bhp Cup 260 arrives 2020: Range consists of 217bhp Sport 220 and 245bhp Cup 250

SPECIFICATIONS Series 1 Elise 1.8-litre inline-four Power: 118bhp Top speed: 124mph 0-60mph: 5.5 seconds Economy: 39.8mpg Series 2 Elise R 1.8-litre inline-four Power: 189bhp Top speed: 148mph 0-60mph: 4.9 seconds Economy: 35mpg (est.)

Series 3 Elise Cup 250 1.8-litre supercharged inline-four Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

245bhp 154mph 3.9 seconds 35mpg (est.)

ALLOW ME TO BE YO U R G U I DE

1989-1997

Mazda MX-5

The best-selling roadster in history started its journey with this car – and for some enthusiasts it’s still the one to have, all these years later

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HE ORIGINAL MAZDA MX-5 may seem like an obvious recipe for success in hindsight, but when it first came to market in 1989 there hadn’t been a decent roadster on sale for almost a decade. Most had been relics from the golden age of the British sports car, so the timing for a modern interpretation couldn’t have been better.

The formula that made the MX-5 NA such a hit was a rather simple one. It stuck to the traditional front-engine, rear-wheeldrive roadster layout, which also gave it near-perfect 50:50 weight distribution. An 146 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

all-steel bodyshell with a longitudinal truss helping reduce chassis flex was used, while independent double-wishbone suspension all round helped keep the car planted in corners. The sub-1000kg kerbweight meant that even the base 1.6-litre engine provided ample thrust.

A logically laid-out cabin with just the bare essentials rounded off the package, and Mazda’s resultant model became an international sales success like no other roadster before or since. The firstgeneration cars remained in production for eight years, and while the basic

underpinnings remained largely the same, a 1.8-litre engine was introduced in 1994 and numerous special-edition models were also released along the way.

Performance enhancements such as limited-slip differentials, Bilstein dampers and lightweight wheels were gradually introduced, and aftermarket modifications soon followed. Today there are a number of specialists that are happy to bolt a turbocharger to your MX-5 or turn it into a serious track-day weapon – but, as is usually the case, the original unmodified cars are the ones that remain the most desirable to collectors.

The factory did offer a turbocharged model from 1990-1991, called the BBR Turbo. A total of 850 of these MX-5s were made; producing 152bhp, they could launch the car from 0-60mph in 6.8 seconds. While rare, the extra expense of these models isn’t recommended, as BBR stopped manufacturing original parts for the NA model. If you must have a turbocharged example, find a reputable specialist to convert a standard car.

Supercharger kits are also available.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Both 1.6 and 1.8-litre engines are capable of big mileages if serviced regularly. Oil leaks are not uncommon, but these can generally be traced to perished gaskets.

Timing belts should ideally be replaced every 60,000 miles, while oil changes should not extend beyond 10,000 miles at most. Check for a loose or wobbly crank pulley when the engine is running, and if you hear knocking or whining noises then have the timing belt and water pump investigated as well.

Some cars may have had aftermarket air filters and cams fitted, and other performance-enhancing modifications carried out. As long as it was done by a reputable specialist, this should not be an issue. Turbo and supercharger conversions are popular, too, and the same criteria applies – although the extra power can shorten the lifespan of the drivetrain.

UK-specification cars came with a five-speed manual transmission, while some Eunos imports had a four-speed auto ’box. Both units are well up to the job, and issues such as leaking slave cylinders and worn clutch-release bearings aren’t overly expensive to rectify.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The standard suspension set-up is robust, but have a look for seized brake calipers, cracked rubber bushes and corroded front-suspension arms. Seized calipers are a common problem in these Mazdas, so check the temperature of the wheels after a test drive. Handbrakes will also often need adjusting.

Oversized rims can detrimentally affect the ride, as well as put additional strain on the wheel bearings. The brakes are fine for fast road use, and don’t need much attention aside from periodic pad changes.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR There may have been hundreds of thousands of first-generation MX-5 built, but rust has trimmed down numbers over the years. Make sure to look for corrosion around the side sills, window frames, wheelarches, boot and footwells. Damp carpets can indicate a worn soft-top; replacements are available but factor the

cost of a new one into your purchase price.

Uneven panel gaps, mismatched paint and overspray can all point to previous accident damage. Uneven gaps can also be caused by poor fitment (although not from the factory), as there is a lot of adjustment in the panel fit.

The interior trim is prone to wear after so many years, especially when the roof is often left down. Seats and door trims can look tacky, and some owners may have either recovered or repaired them. The electronics are reliable, but check that all the buttons and switches work. A slowoperating power window may require replacement bushes, or simply a good clean of the glass runners.

WHICH MX-5 TO BUY The MX-5 NA was sold as the Eunos Roadster in Japan, and a number have been imported into the UK. While they may have been grey imports, there is nothing wrong with them, and many have higher specs than the officially sold cars. Rust, missed services and suspect modifications are the main things to avoid here, because although MX-5s were built in huge numbers, good examples are increasingly hard to come by.

Outright speed is not the point of the MX-5, but the 1.8-litre models do offer more torque and are more responsive at lower revs as a result. The 115bhp 1.6-litre is still a great car, but these units did drop to 88bhp from 1994-on when the 1.8-litre model was introduced. Something else you might want to avoid are the handful of automatic Eunos models out there.

They are generally cheaper than other variants, but for good reason.

The majority of first-generation models are still in the very affordable category.

Even limited-edition variants with low mileages are keenly priced, so spend as much as you can afford and get ready to become an MX-5 convert.

Doctor MX-5 kindly supplied the technical and maintenance information contained in this guide. It is Classic Trader’s recommended MX-5 specialist.

Fair: £2200 Good: £3700 Excellent: £6900 Concours: £8900 (1993 1.6)

MAZDA

BUYING GUIDE

Diminutive Japanese sports car offers plenty of wind-in-the-hair fun at a affordable price

MAZDA MX-5 MODEL HISTORY 1989: First-generation Mazda MX-5 NA introduced. European variants get 115bhp 1.6-litre powerplant with five-speed manual gearbox 1990: Special-edition 152bhp BBR Turbo model launched. Just 850 built until production ends following year 1994: 129bhp 1.8-litre motor replaces 115bhp 1.6; 88bhp 1.6 introduced as entry-level option in UK for insurance purposes. Optional limited-slip diff changes from viscous to Torsen type.

M editions introduced 1996: 1.8-litre motor upgraded to 132bhp 1997: MX-5 NA production ends, having incorporated numerous specialedition models. Notable variants include M-edition cars, which were sold from 1994-1997. These examples had unique exterior colours, and most came as standard with limited-slip diff

SPECIFICATIONS 1.6-litre inline-four Power: 88-115bhp Top speed: 126mph 0-60mph: 8.3 seconds Economy: 35mpg 1.8-litre inline-four Power: 129-133bhp Top speed: 130mph (est.)

0-60mph: 8.0 seconds Economy: 35mpg CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 147

BUYING GUIDE

1967-1971

Mercedes-Benz 280SL Pagoda Values of elegant drop-top have risen exponentially in recent years, so ensure you get the best you can afford

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EW CARS ON SALE TODAY have the Mercedes-Benz SL’s heritage. The first model was the legendary 300SL Gullwing, released in 1954. Since then, the name has developed a strong following, with certain examples becoming among the most sought-after Mercedes ever produced.

The W113-series 280SL Pagoda is no exception. The car’s styling was the work of famous French designer Paul Bracq, who worked for Mercedes-Benz in the late 1950s after a stint in the military.

Bracq designed some of the brand’s most glamorous and desirable models.

As well as looking the part, the 280SL was an innovative car that was well ahead of its time in many respects. It had fuel

injection, aluminium door shells and bonnet, disc brakes and the option of power steering. Its refinement, elegant body, exquisite build quality and decent performance meant it quickly gained favour with the rich and famous in a similar fashion to Bracq’s other celebrated Mercedes model, the 600 Grosse.

Values for the SL fell to very affordable levels during the early 2000s, but since then prices have increased exponentially – and they show no signs of dropping.

Consequently, it’s more important than ever to find an honest example that will uphold the legacy of one of Mercedes’ greatest models. In doing so, you should spare yourself from some potentially eyewatering repair bills.

MAGIC CAR PICS

ENGINE

Pagoda trim was MB Tex vinyl or leather. Cabin parts availability is good but they can be costly

148 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

The 2.8-litre straight-six is dependable if it has been well maintained. However, this is still a 1960s model, and the engine can accrue technical issues if it has been neglected or left standing for a long time.

The Pagoda’s mechanical fuel injection can be costly to replace if it goes wrong. It should start nearly instantly; if it doesn’t, the injectors could be blocked or rusty.

Listen for engine bangs or splutters.

Once started, the motor should warm up quickly. If not, the thermostat may have been removed in order to disguise an overheating problem. Hot running can also be caused by head-gasket problems, of which misfires are another symptom.

If the engine temperature continues to

‘As well as looking the part, the 280SL was an innovative car that was well ahead of its time in many respects’

climb once the car is warm, the radiator could be clogged. It is essential to use a high-quality antifreeze at the correct level; the engine block is steel, while the head is aluminium, so internal corrosion is a risk.

When on the move, blue smoke is a sign of worn valve-stem seals. The oil should be replaced every 3000 miles to prevent internal wear and prolong the life of the engine. Regular changes also help keep the fuel-injection pump in good order.

GEARBOX Around 90 percent of 280SLs were sold with a four-speed automatic gearbox. It perfectly suits the car’s nature as a refined and stylish open-top cruiser.

Both the auto and the four-speed

manual ’boxes are resilient, but they aren’t immune to wear or problems. Shifts in autos should feel smooth and refined; jerkiness when changing ratios indicates an underlying issue. The manual version shouldn’t be especially noisy, jump out of gear or offer a crunchy, difficult shift.

Prospective owners should check for gearbox leaks; if the oil runs low, damage to the internals is inevitable. If either ’box does need refurbishing, the job is relatively straightforward but expensive.

Propshaft couplings and universal joints can wear. A thudding sound from the rear can indicate this, but it could also point to worn differential mountings, which are expensive to sort out. A whiny diff probably means a costly rebuild.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Shock absorbers can wear out, so look for weeping on the struts and an unrefined ride. Replacement parts will transform the drive. The suspension’s kingpins, trunnions and nipples all need regular lubrication for them to stand the test of time. Ideally, this should be performed every 3000 miles. On the bright side, if these parts are in a poor state of repair, replacements are relatively affordable.

Play in the wheels when the car is jacked up indicates a problem in this area.

Power steering was a popular option on the Pagoda. The car handles far better with this fitted, but you should take care to look for hydraulic leaks. Brakes were discs all round. Check the condition of the CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 149

‘The savings of buying a car at the cheaper end of the scale pale in comparison to the expense of restoring it to its former glory’ lines; if these have perished or are leaking, it can dangerously affect the model’s stopping power.

BODYWORK The 280SL was a hand-built luxury car famous for its superb quality and attention to detail. Consequently, panel gaps should be uniform and tight. Many panels were stamped with the build number (under the bonnet, for example). Cross referencing this is a good way to determine originality.

Above all else, finding a sound body is the most crucial thing. The monocoque is prone to rust, and cars that seem immaculate on the outside can still have structural corrosion, so it’s important to be diligent. The sills, boot floor, floorpan, chassis rails and members, wheelarches and jacking points are all common areas for rot, so do look underneath the car, and under the carpets, too. And while the aluminium bonnet, door skins and bootlid aren’t prone to rust, these can still corrode.

With 20kg of paint on them from the factory, Pagodas were known for their high-quality finish. To see if your model is still wearing its original paint, check the ‘notches’ on the insides of the headlights; if they’re missing, the car has probably been to a body shop. Most (but not all) 280SLs had the Pagoda hardtop. Check its condition and the state of the mounting points, plus that the soft-top is crisp and water tight, with a decent rear window.

The SL originally came with a chrome 150 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

tool to secure the fabric roof in place.

These often go missing and are replaced by less desirable, later alternatives. If originality is a concern, ensure it’s present.

INTERIOR Cabin parts availability is good, but they can be expensive to buy and fit. Check that the gauges and electrical systems work well. Also, the heater handles are plastic and can go brittle and snap over time.

The 280SL was trimmed in either MB Tex vinyl or leather. Be wary that some owners may think their car has hide when it is in fact vinyl. Leather trim often has more patina than its vinyl counterparts.

Carpets have been replaced in many cars; a stitched trim around the gear gaiter is a tell-tale sign; the factory trim was rubber.

Wooden dash-top trim can deteriorate, and the top of the windscreen can often be scratched from fitting the hardtop.

WHICH MERCEDES-BENZ 280SL PAGODA TO BUY The Pagoda was once considered an affordable classic, but values have increased exponentially in recent times. These days, you should expect to pay a considerable sum. The savings of a car at the cheaper end of the scale pale in comparison to the expense of restoring it to its former glory.

Spend as much as you can to secure a decent example and be spared of future expense. The priority should be a rustfree car that has a high level of originality

and an unambiguous history. The later models are both the most valuable and the best buys, because they represent the most refined examples of the 280SL. Few cars offer the classic style and wide appeal of a Pagoda. It’s one of MercedesBenz’s most revered models, not to mention a direct descendent of the iconic 300SL. Much information for this guide was provided by renowned Mercedes-Benz SL specialist SLSHOP. Classic Trader recommends it as a trusted source for restoration, servicing, parts and sales.

Fair: £41,300 Good: £57,900 Excellent: £72,900 Concours: £118,800 (1968)

MERCEDES-BENZ 280SL PAGODA MODEL HISTORY 1967: 280SL Pagoda launched alongside 250SL, which supersedes 230SL of 1963.

With its softer suspension, better seats and stronger engine, 280SL is most common and sought-after Pagoda 1971: Production of 280SL Pagoda ends, 23,885 models having been built

SPECIFICATIONS 2.8-litre inline-six Power: 180bhp Top speed: 124mph 0-60mph: 9.3 seconds Economy: 24mpg (est.)

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BUYING GUIDE

1962-1980

MGB and MGB GT Even today, the MGB survives in big numbers and is one of the most popular sports cars in the world. But then, it’s also one of the easiest to own…

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from the BMC J-type van. The newcomer was launched in 1962, with a new threebearing 95bhp 1798cc B-series engine and a four-speed manual ’box, with synchro on second, third and fourth. Drilled steel wheels were standard, although most Bs got wire rims at some point, making the originals both rare and desirable today.

In 1965, the cabin was upgraded and the engine was given five main bearings rather than three. The main development came in the form of the MGB GT, though – a fixed-head coupé variant with a sidehinged rear tailgate á la Jaguar E-type.

In 1967, the MGB saw further changes, with a new axle, all-synchro, closer-ratio ’box and negative-earth electrical system with an alternator in lieu of a dynamo.

Later on, the short-lived MGC appeared with the Austin-Healey 3.0-litre C-series.

This was identifiable by its bonnet hump.

For the 1970 model year, some British

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE MGB IS ONE OF THE all-time great classic cars.

Affordable, fabulous to look at, simple to maintain and perennially popular, the B has been among the staples of the sports car scene ever since the last example rolled off the Abingdon production line in late 1980.

Its existence was down to MG wanting to create a more modern replacement for the MGA; one that would retain that car’s classically streamlined looks, but ride on a contemporary chassis. MGA creator and BMC motor sport guru Syd Enever led the engineering team, and styling was by Don Hayter. The design retained traditional MG cues such as the peaked front wings and sloping nose and tail, but in a squarer and smaller package than the MGA it replaced.

Its underpinnings were derived partly from the MGA and partly from BMC stock parts – including the floorpans

Leyland cost cutting kicked in, with a cheaper, less delicate grille and vinyl trim replacing leather. There were also Rostyle sports wheels and side finishers.

A factory V8 was introduced in 1973, prompted by private converters such as Ken Costello who were shoehorning Rover V8 into MGBs. Unlike those conversions, the official BL model was offered only as a GT, and not for very long. The V8 died soon after launch, at a time when the B faced the biggest change in its history.

In 1974 – to comply with strict new US safety regulations – the MGB’s ride height was increased, and the front and rear ends were clad in impact-absorbent rubber bumpers. The car’s weight increased by nearly 50kg, and the handling was never as sharp again. Ironically, the launch of this ‘inferior’ MGB coincided with MG’s 50th anniversary, which saw a specialedition run of 75 green-and-gold Jubilee models to mark the occasion.

Overdrive was made standard from 1975, and from ’77 the front and rear valances were painted black to help the new bumpers blend in better. A new ‘crackle-finish’ dash was also added, with more convenient heater controls, new column stalks and a four-spoke wheel.

After a production lifespan that lasted 18 years, the final MGB left Abingdon in October 1980. The last 1000 cars off the line were special MGB LE models featuring unique silver or bronze paint, along with alloy wheels previously seen on the Triumph Stag.

ENGINES

Original trim included leather, vinyl and brushed nylon; reproductions of all fabrics are available

152 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

The BMC B-series is a well proven and generally robust engine, which doesn’t suffer from any major problems specific

‘Affordable, fabulous to look at, simple to maintain and always popular, the MGB is among the staples of the sports car scene’

to the unit. However, it does wear out after reasonable use, and all but the lowest-mileage cars will have seen some rebuild work by now.

The main issues are worn piston rings and cylinder wear, which can lead to excessive oil consumption, a lot of smoke and low compression. The engine is relatively unstressed and will slog on for ages like this, but it’ll need fixing at some point. Luckily, you can get an entire reconditioned powerplant on an exchange basis for less than £1000 via most MGB specialists, so it’s not a huge problem, certainly in terms of finding parts.

If a rumble emanates from the bottom end, there is wear in the crankshaft main bearings. A consistent rattle or a diesellike idle points to a worn or loose timing chain which, if not put right, can wipe out the engine. Burned-out valves are also a common problem, leading to rough running and a loss of compression.

The B-series is highly tunable, and many specialists offer myriad performance options. Most examples are now more powerful than when they left the factory – especially later rubber-bumper cars that were sold in a reduced state of tune.

GEARBOX The standard four-speeder is pretty tough – the later overdrive units in particular.

Indeed, it’s common to find an early B fitted with a later ’box. Unless you crave originality, it’s a very sensible conversion,

154 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

as indeed are some of the aftermarket five-speed offerings, which considerably improve the MGB’s cruising ability.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES It’s all pretty straightforward underneath, with rear semi-elliptic leaf springs and lever-arm dampers all round, although a popular conversion is to fit modern telescopics for a sharper steering response and better handling. Specialists have put six decades of tuning expertise into the MGB, and unlike other models that tend to attract rivet-counting purists, a well modified and set-up B is generally more desirable than a standard one – very early cars and special editions excepted.

Upgraded disc brakes are also common, and plenty of kits are available via both specialists and the main clubs – the MGCC and MGOC, each of which has a specialist parts division exporting all over the world.

‘If you want an MGB to buy, use, enjoy and improve, any 1970s example will suit your needs and be an enjoyable classic car to own’

BODYWORK It’s imperative to inspect the body of any potential purchase very carefully. This is the most important check of the lot, as the metalwork will be the hardest and most expensive part of the car to put right if it does need extensive work.

First up, you should perform a casual visual inspection. Look for body seams that are uneven or have signs of cracks in the paint. These could indicate a previous, poorly executed filler repair, which could be concealing hidden rot.

Next, look closely at the sill structures, including the inner sill and castle rail (the upper seam where it meets the floorpan).

Rust bubbles where the lower part of the wings and door frames meet the sills suggests that the inner structure is in a bad way. Over the years some cars will have seen over-sills fitted and various bodges to squeeze them through another MoT. This type of car is rarer than it once was, as a lot of Bs have been bought and restored by enthusiasts, but there are still a few out there that are clinging onto life.

Don’t be hoodwinked into thinking it’s ‘patina’. If an MGB is scabby on top, it’ll be a lot worse in the areas you can’t see.

The front- and rear-wing top seams can go as well, as can the bottom of the screen frame on GTs – a very involved repair.

Check the ‘trumpet’ sections of both front inner wings, too, and the rear spring hangers; these are also common rot spots.

Don’t worry too much about exterior

BUYING GUIDE

MGB MODEL HISTORY 1962: MGB Roadster makes its debut, with non-synchro first gear and three-main-bearing engine 1965: MGB GT introduced 1965: New five-bearing version of B-series engine, plus cabin upgrades with internal pull handles 1967: MGB converted from dynamo to alternator, new stronger transmission, rear axle and all-synchromesh gearbox 1967: MGC appears with six-cylinder engine, as coupé or roadster 1969: 1970 model-year cars appear with vinyl trim, Rostyle sports wheels, side rubbing strips and British Leyland roundels on front wings 1973: Factory MGB GT V8 debuts

Whether you choose an early car or a later, rubber-bumper example, the MGB’s B-series is a well proven and generally robust powerplant, with myriad tuning possibilities

trim or a new hood. These are available and quite affordable, so while it should be a factor if you’re haggling, it shouldn’t ever be considered a deal-breaker.

INTERIOR Inside, the MGB is pretty basic. It has a matt black-painted dash, straightforward Smiths instruments and, on later models, a loudspeaker incorporated into the facia.

The early-1970s vinyl seats are the most robust. Later, brushed-nylon facings wear out quickly and explode foam. Early leather seats are rare and need a specialist retrim. Reproductions of all fabrics are available from MG specialists, though, so you can still get most of the bits you need.

Again, it’s a haggle factor based on how much you care about a car’s cosmetics.

1974: ‘Rubber bumper’ MGB introduced with polyurethane beak, and suspension raised by 1.5 inches to meet Federal laws.

Jubilee special edition launched 1975: Overdrive transmission made standard across range 1980: Last-of-line MGB LE appears for limited run of 1000. Production ceases in October

WHICH MGB TO BUY No MGB could be considered a bad buy.

The first choice is a roadster or GT – the former is more fun but the latter is arguably more stylish, and they appeal to a different type of enthusiast. Chromebumper (pre-1974) cars are naturally more popular, although a lot of later models have since been converted from rubber.

The earliest examples hold the most appeal for collectors and concours fans.

If you want an MGB to buy, use, enjoy and improve, any 1970s example will suit your needs and be a thoroughly enjoyable and easy classic car to own – providing you buy carefully in the first place.

Fair: £4300 Good: £8960 Excellent: £15,100 Concours: £21,100 (Mk2 dhc)

SPECIFICATIONS 1962 launch-spec Roadster Power: 94bhp Top speed: 100mph 0-60mph: 13.1 seconds Economy: 30mpg 1967 GT Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

92bhp 104mph 12.1 seconds 29mpg

1975 Roadster (rubber bumper) Power: 63bhp Top speed: 93mph 0-60mph: 13.9 seconds Economy: 30mpg CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 155

BUYING GUIDE

1958-1979

MG Midget/ Austin-Healey Sprite BMC’s formation led to a fusion of two famous sports car brands and a baby roadster that’s still hugely loved

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division to develop. It would be of partial monocoque construction, built around a ‘bucket’ with bulkheads either side, with floorpan rails for added rigidity and a front-hinged bonnet. The original Sprite prototype was streamlined with pop-up headlights, but these would turn out to be too expensive to make, hence the eventual ‘Frogeye’ appearance.

Due to Austin’s capacity being overrun, the car would be built for Austin-Healey

by MG at its Abingdon plant. It was praised for its peppy performance and fun handling, although the jury was out

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE ORIGINAL AUSTINHealey Sprite came about on the back of the marque’s competition success, with Healey boss Donald Healey suggesting to Austin’s Leonard Lord that a small sports car centred on the Austin A30/A35 would be a great sales opportunity in both the UK and the US. The car would use the engine, rear axle, front suspension and gearbox of the baby Austin, coupled with steering from the Morris Minor and a slightly tuned engine, which was passed over to the Morris

There’s little to go wrong in the simple, basically equipped cabin of any Sprite or Midget variant

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‘For pure classic appeal, not to mention its Toytown looks, the original Frogeye Sprite is one of the alltime greats’

on the looks. Within BMC, however, conversations were ongoing. The model was built at Abingdon, and MG needed a boost, so it was decided that the car would be redesigned with an MG front end to be sold with the octagonal badge.

In 1961 the MG Midget made its debut, alongside the Austin-Healey Sprite Mk2. Both versions had a squarer body, with separate front wings and a more conventional bonnet. They also got a bootlid – something that was missing from the original Sprite. The little 948cc engine, meanwhile, was equipped with bigger carbs for slightly more performance.

The next milestone was the arrival of a 1098cc variant of the trusty BMC A-series engine in 1963. Along with the improved

performance, the brakes were duly uprated with front discs.

From 1964, both the Sprite and Midget received a new dash layout, fitted carpets, a fresh screen with an easier-to-fit hood and wind-up windows. The quarterelliptic rear leaf springs were replaced with semi-elliptics to boost ride quality.

In 1967, the Sprite and Midget saw a big power improvement, with the 1275cc engine from the Mini Cooper S finding its way underneath their snug bonnets.

Three years later the claws of British Leyland took away some of the purity, when it replaced a lot of the shiny brightwork with a matt-black finish, while the car’s sills were painted satin black.

Post-1970 Sprites are rare. By 1971, the

arrangement between Donald Healey and BMC had finished, and BL had no desire to renew it. This led to the final 1022 cars being badged simply as Austin Sprites.

But the Midget had plenty of life left. In 1972, it got round wheelarches instead of the earlier cars’ squared-off ones. These ‘RWA’ Midgets are popular in competition because the open arches allow them to be fitted with bigger and wider tyres.

The Midget carried on this way until 1975, when it was revised to meet US safety legislation. At this point it sprouted a pair of unsightly black impact bumpers like those fitted to the MGB, in order to remain on sale in its most popular market.

The square arches made a comeback, too, as a result of the car having to be raised

over an inch to meet the federal rules.

This would have left an unsightly gap.

It was all change under the bonnet, too.

The 1275cc engine simply couldn’t be detuned any more to meet the American rules, so in went the 1493cc Triumph engine as used in the Dolomite and Spitfire, which met emissions regulations. It was not as urgent as the 1275cc unit when getting up to speed, but the Midget 1500 (as it became known) was a better cruiser.

Production of all ‘Spridgets’ ceased in 1979, after a 21-year production run.

ENGINES Up until 1975, the Sprite and Midget used the BMC A-series unit. This gives little in the way of major trouble, other than

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 157

general wear and tear. The main things to look for are excessive breathing and heavy oil consumption, which can point towards worn cylinder bores, overheating or head-gasket failure. Timing-chain rattle is common, too, but the A-series can go on forever like this.

On the later, Triumph-powered models the power delivery is very different. It’s all at the bottom end, and if over-revved these units can suffer from camshaft wear. Listen also for a rumbling from the bottom of the engine, which can indicate crankshaft-bearing failure.

bless the car with terrific roadholding.

From 1964 the set-up was changed to semi-elliptic, which puts less harshness through the body tub and gives a far more compliant ride. Serendipitously, it also makes post-1964 cars less susceptible to cracked floorpans and spring-hanger mounts, which were a common structural problem on earlier examples.

Otherwise, everything related to the running gear is pretty straightforward.

Specialists offer a variety of improvements, too, such as telescopic dampers, thicker bushes and brake upgrades.

GEARBOX

BODYWORK

The transmission in all Spridgets is short and snappy, although pre-1964 cars don’t have synchromesh on first. This is rarely a problem once you get used to it. Later 1275cc models have overdrive, which makes for a more relaxed cruise, and overall the gearboxes are pretty hardy with no major problems.

The Triumph transmissions on the Midget 1500 are more fragile. They’re not disastrous, but they have a far less sporty feel and are susceptible to bearing wear, so listen for a whining or droning noise when pulling away.

Unsurprisingly for a car of its era, it’s the body that is the most important concern when buying any Sprite or Midget. Rust can appear anywhere, but there is a difference between where it’s cosmetic and where it presents a much bigger problem.

Starting at the front, the lower valance panel is vulnerable, along with the lower parts of the front wings. The back of the wings and the front part of the sills are also rot spots. Serious corrosion here is a major issue, as the bulkhead where the two meet is a significant part of the car’s structure.

The A-pillars are also very susceptible to rust – again, a stressed area and a water trap. Sills are equally important structurally and can rot quite badly – although on the plus side repairs aren’t that involved due to the flat-surfaced nature of the car.

One of the most significant areas to

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES On the earliest cars that were built up to 1964, both the Sprite and Midget have quarter-elliptic leaf springs. These give an incredibly harsh ride, but they also

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check is around the spring mountings at the back of the rear bulkhead. It will really help if you can get the car in the air. Look for collapsed spring box mountings or an uneven ride height as an indication of more worrying trouble beneath. It’s also common to find rust in the bottom of the rear wings. This is not structural, but rot in the boot floor is more of a concern.

On Frogeye Sprites, the bonnet can rust pretty badly. As this is an expensive component to replace or repair, many have had glassfibre panels fitted instead.

INTERIOR With so little present inside the cabin of any Sprite or Midget, there’s not a lot to go wrong. There are two seats, a steering wheel, a gearlever and sometimes a heater – and that’s about it.

Later cars have a black crackle-finish dash that can suffer chips or damage to its surface, while the additional padding in Midget 1500s isn’t exactly pretty.

WHICH MIDGET OR SPRITE TO BUY For pure classic appeal, not to mention its Toytown looks, the original Frogeye Sprite is one of the all-time greats and is quite a desirable little classic.

The later models are easier cars to own, though, not least because of the amazing amount of back-up available through MG specialists. A post-1964 Midget is a great car to have, because you can still get

BUYING GUIDE

MG MIDGET/AUSTIN-HEALEY SPRITE MODEL HISTORY 1958: Austin-Healey ‘Frogeye’ Sprite introduced, built in MG’s Abingdon factory 1961: MG launches its own Midget, with squarer bodywork and separate front wings. Sprite brought into line with same overall body shape but standalone grille 1963: Original 948cc engine replaced by 1098cc unit from Austin/Morris 1100 1964: Sprite Mk3 and Midget Mk2 appear with significant rear-end changes thanks to arrival of semi-elliptic leaf springs.

Cabin improvements introduced and first-gear synchromesh added 1967: All Sprites and Midgets boosted with 1275cc engine from Mini Cooper S

Earlier chromebumper cars are prettier and more desirable than rubber-bumper counterparts, but all models are fun to drive and easy to maintain

almost anything you need off the shelf.

Round-wheelarch cars are of marginally more interest than the square-arch models, especially in the competition community. There’s very little point in paying a premium for one, though, and they’re not worth much more.

The Midget 1500 is the poor relation.

It’s neither as attractive nor as identifiable as the more delicate and pretty cars that came before it, but it’s not without merit.

As a long-distance tourer it’s a lot more comfortable than the earlier models, while still being cheap to own and run.

Its ungainly plastic bumpers and raised ride height make it less desirable with collectors, though, which means it’s a much cheaper car to buy in the first place.

In conclusion, a 1275cc Midget or Sprite from 1967 onwards is as good as it gets.

Fair: £3400 Good: £4900 Excellent: £8300 Concours : £12,700 (1965 Midget)

‘Later models are easier to own, not least because of the amazing amount of back-up available through specialists’

1970: BL-influenced changes: new wheels, blacked-out grilles and black sills 1971: Sprite becomes Austin Sprite after BMC/Healey arrangement ends. Only 1022 sold before model ends altogether 1972: MG Midget Mk4, round rear arches 1975: MG Midget 1500 introduced, with impact-resistant rubberised plastic bumpers and raised ride height.

Engine comes from Triumph. Square wheelarches make comeback 1979: Abingdon MG Midgets come to end

SPECIFICATIONS 1958 Frogeye Sprite Power: 43bhp Top speed: 83mph 0-60mph: 21 seconds Economy: 43mpg 1967 Midget Mk3 Power: 65bhp Top speed: 90mph 0-60mph: 14.1 seconds Economy: 40mpg Midget 1500 Power : Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

71bhp 95mph 12.1 seconds 39mpg

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 159

BUYING GUIDE

1995-2012

MGF and TF MG’s glorious return saw the brand head straight to the top of the sports car sales charts – and its sprightly roadster still has plenty of charm today

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to bring a sports car back onto the market.

The MGF was developed virtually ‘between jobs’, with the new Rover 200 and 400 ranges, KV6 engine programme and hastily developed 100 model taking precedence thanks to their volume versus profitability forecasts.

Yet the newcomer was clever. In 1995, alongside the new 200 and 400 that were part of Rover Group’s ‘portfolio’ model launch, the MGF made its debut, too. It had been developed on a fraction of the budget, using two Metro subframes and a body bought in from Mayflower Steel in Coventry and partially assembled by hand.

Its mid-engined, rear-drive layout gave it fantastic handling, despite some early concerns that the Hydragas suspension wasn’t suited to a sports car. The MGF proved that it was, offering a firm but malleable ride and impressive balance. The

MAGIC CAR PICS

Y THE 1990S, THE MG brand was on life support.

Ever since the disappearance of the MGB and Midget sports cars, traditional fans of the iconic Octagon had been craving the marque’s return. But the best that Austin-Rover could do was put some red seatbelts in Metros, Maestros and Montegos – which was hardly the best tribute to one of the world’s most famous sports car brands.

There was always talk of a roadster return, but never the budget. The V8engined RV8 of 1992 was a modernised take on the MGB, yet was just that – beneath its rounded bumpers, it still had the chassis of the antiquated B. But what that car did do was reignite passion for MG – a passion that was still there among the public, and which had seen engineers within Rover Group desperate

Cabin water damage from leaky soft-tops or condensation is common; a retrim may be needed

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‘Cute, compact and very much of its era, it was just the model for the new-found optimism that drove mid1990s Britain’

flipside was that it resulted in quite a high ride height for a sports car – something that was always a bugbear for Rover’s styling chief, Gerry McGovern.

Despite this, McGovern’s team created a car that looked appealing. Cute, compact and very much of its era, it was just the model for the new-found optimism that drove mid-1990s Britain. It would also go on to enjoy strong export sales, thanks to the latent enthusiasm for MG sports cars across the globe.

It was originally offered in just two trim levels – 1.8i and 1.8i VVC – but as it grew older Rover Group tried a few tricks to keep it fresh. A series of special editions preceded a facelift in late 1999, which brought in a restyled rear bumper and

bootlid, along with Minilite-style alloy wheels, a revised facia and a new entrylevel 1.6-litre powerplant. This latest incarnation took the F right back to basics and didn’t even have central locking.

Following BMW’s sale of the Rover and MG brands to the Phoenix Consortium in 2000, the F was one of the first cars to undergo some major revisions. Launched in 2001, the new TF was based on the same bodyshell, but with a new, pointier front end and a smarter interior.

There was a new engine, too – a higheroutput version of the VVC developing 158bhp, which would power the new range-topping TF160.

However, the biggest changes were beneath the skin, with the Hydragas

suspension finally being replaced by conventional coil springs. MG Rover said the new suspension improved handling, responses and driveability – which in fairness it did – but the real reason was that it was much cheaper to build.

It certainly didn’t hamper sales – even at MG Rover’s demise in 2005 it was still the UK’s best-selling roadster. The story doesn’t end there, either, because in 2009 and under Chinese SAIC ownership, the production line clanked into life again. It assembled MG sports cars for a further three years.

ENGINES The 1.8-litre version of Rover’s K-series unit made its debut in the F, and also

highlighted one of the issues that became a problem for all MG Rover cars from the early 2000s onwards. When increasing the size of the K-series, the manufacturer used a new type of stretch bolt to attach the block to the head. Coupled to a coolant leak, often from the inlet-manifold gasket, and lax maintenance meaning owners would fail to notice water loss as a result of it, the engine would overheat and the resultant pressure would find the weakest point – which was the elastomer head gasket between block and head.

Once fixed with a later, multi-layer steel gasket in place of the original elastomer one, the problem rarely returns. However, if a car has had the head gasket done, check that the head was checked and – if CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 161

necessary – skimmed. If this work has not been carried out, coolant could still leak into the cylinders.

Check for white smoke, a misfire at low revs or an uneven idle. Any of these things could hint at early stages of the problem. Bear in mind, too, that while a replacement head gasket is an easy enough job on a Rover 200 or 400, on an MGF access is limited.

Another issue is that the F and TF have coolant pipes that run under the floor and are susceptible to damage or corrosion.

Look for drips underneath the car when you park up, because replacement is a fairly involved and essential job.

Otherwise, a K-series engine will happily run for a very long time. We’ve seen them still going strong with over 200,000 miles on the clock – but keep on top of cambelt changes, as a snapped belt will kill it.

GEARBOX Overall, the MGF and TF are tough in terms of their running gear, although worn synchromesh on the transmission can be an irritation between second and third gear. It’s unlikely to be a killer, however. Clutch arms can seize and even snap, but they’ll have given you fair warning by becoming stiff over time.

The weak link is the CVT Stepspeed offered from the 2000 model year. It’s a weak ’box and is known to give problems – do check for snatchy take-up of drive and signs of slipping.

162 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘The new roadster would also go on to enjoy strong export sales, thanks to the latent enthusiasm for MG sports cars across the globe’

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Hydragas suspension spheres on MGFs lose pressure over time, so you will need to get the car pumped up every couple of years or so. The TF is simpler and easier to maintain, although the usual checks on bushes, mounts and drop links are always advisable.

Brakes are discs all round, and are the same as those fitted to the Rover 45 or MG ZS. Parts are cheap and plentiful.

BODYWORK Starting at the front, lift up the luggage compartment liner and have a look at where the bulkhead meets the front chassis legs, as this will give an indication of the overall structural condition. MGFs

and TFs can and do rust – but not as badly as, for example, a Mazda MX-5.

Front wings go behind the headlights, where there’s a dirt trap, and around the wheelarch lips. They’re bolt-on panels and easy enough to get hold of, but serious rust here could be an indicator of far more complicated rot in less obvious areas such as the subframe mounts.

At the rear, look for signs of bubbling behind the side air vents. Corrosion up here indicates that there’s something far worse lurking out of sight, because this is the first external sign that the car’s inner sills are shot.

Outer sills are prone to rusting, too, but corrosion here is far easier to see. It starts as the outer and inner sills begin to separate at the seam weld underneath, and will rapidly sprout up the side of the car. Repairs are not straightforward, though, if you want them to look pretty.

Also, check the soft-top carefully. A replacement roof is a bolt-in job, and there are loads of experts that specialise in recovering them, but it’s not cheap.

Finally, late-model TFs are more rust prone than early cars and Fs. MG cut so much cost out of the model in its later years, rustproofing became poor.

INTERIOR Water damage is common in this car as a result of moisture ingress from leaky soft-tops or condensation from seasonal use. This can cause dashboard plastics

BUYING GUIDE

MGF AND TF MODEL HISTORY 1995: MGF launched at Geneva Motor Show; sales begin in September 1996: MGF becomes best-selling roadster in UK 1999: 75th Anniversary LE model debuts Late 1999: Model-year change for 2000 sees introduction of Stepspeed CVT, entry-level 1.6i, revised dashboard, new wheels and clear indicators 2000: MGF Trophy, Freestyle and Wedgewood special editions announced 2001: MG TF introduced, with new, upgraded VVC in TF160 2002: MG TF 1.8 120 replaced by higher-power 135 2005: TF production ceases with collapse of MG Rover 2009: Production restarts at low volumes under SAIC 2012: SAIC production ceases

MGF (top) and TF (above) picked up where original MGB and Midget had left off

and door cards to warp. Look for water stains and mould on upholstery, too, which could be from the same source.

Wear on the side of the driver’s seat is common from seatbelt rubbing, while leather trim is also prone to cracking if not treated carefully. Again, this can be put down to temperature changes.

Sheer age and use means gearlever and handbrake gaiters often look scruffy, but aftermarket replacements are readily and inexpensively available.

WHICH MGF OR TF TO BUY Of the early cars the 1.8i is the most reliable, but the lively and entertaining 1.8VVC is worth seeking out. The 2000 model-year facelift 1.6i is a gem – a backto-basics roadster, and performance is barely different to the 1.8’s. It’s the hidden hero of the F line-up.

With TFs, the earlier the better. Qualitycontrol issues kicked in with MG Rover’s 2003 Project Drive cost-cutting. Go for the 158bhp TF160 with upgraded VVC.

SPECIFICATIONS 1.8i Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

120bhp 122mph 8.9 seconds 35mpg

1.8i VVC Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

141bhp 133mph 7.7 seconds 35mpg

TF160 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

158bhp 140mph 7.1 seconds 36mpg

Fair: £1000 Good: £2500 Excellent: £6000 Concours: £7500 (MGF 1.8i) CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 163

BUYING GUIDE

1959-2000

BMC/Austin/ Morris/ Rover Mini Now over 60 years old, the world’s most famous small car is as loved as ever – but make sure you buy carefully

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seems incredibly cool. Much of that is down to the way it looks, which is in part an accident. The main focus behind its attractive appearance was down to its originator’s desire to make it as practical as it could possibly be.

Alec Issigonis was a genius. The Mini was entirely his creation, and not the work of a whole team as happens with automakers today. He designed the Mini as a small, cheap, economical car with safe handling and class-leading passenger space, and to be easy to maintain.

It used a monocoque body with two

MAGIC CAR PICS

VERYBODY HAS A MINI memory. No other car has touched quite so many people in quite so many ways – be it as their first car, offering memories of a family member or watching ‘David and Goliath’ battles in road racing and rallying.

It also enjoyed a 41-year manufacturing run, meaning it was around through multiple generations. And even now, more than two decades since it ceased production, it remains a popular car with young motorists – partly because it’s fun to drive, but also because it still

Minis are always more spacious inside than you’d expect. Bus-like steering-wheel angle is a trait

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‘It remains popular with young motorists – partly because it’s fun to drive, but also because it still seems incredibly cool’

subframes, with the entire engine and transmission unit mounted to the front ’frame for ease of manufacture. Its drycone suspension was simple and low maintenance, but also one of the reasons behind the car’s go-kart-like roadholding.

What Issigonis wasn’t prepared for was the Mini’s multiple future successes. It was a huge hit in motor sport, where the iconic Cooper version won the Monte Carlo Rally three times (or four, if you include the time it was disqualified under lighting regulations), and it became a massive part of popular culture. The Swinging 1960s just would not have been so cool without it.

The first attempt to replace – or at least update – the Mini came in 1969,

with the arrival of the flat-nosed Mini Clubman. This was sold alongside the original for a decade, before the Metro came along as another attempt to replace the first model. Again, the Mini outsurvived it. This was a homegrown icon, and Britons refused to let it go.

The car enjoyed a huge revival upon the 1990 reintroduction of the Cooper, after a gap of 17 years. It was every inch a fashion accessory by now, but it was one that everybody wanted. As a result, sales were resurgent, while it developed an entirely new level of cult following in Japan.

After an amazing 5.3 million cars, the Rover Mini (as it was now known) finally went out of production on October 4, 2000. The last car to leave the line – a

special-edition Cooper Sport 500 – had 13-inch rims, flared wheelarches and full leather upholstery. It was a far cry from the unassuming little budget car that had been Issigonis’s original vision, but it was a fitting bookend to a remarkable 41year production run.

ENGINES Whether you’re buying a late Rover Mini Cooper Sport or a 1959 Morris MiniMinor, one thing they’re guaranteed to have in common is the venerable A-series engine. However, the later, fuel-injected, 1275cc powerplants are quite different from the 848cc original.

The problems they suffer are the same, though, and there’s rarely anything too

drastic to go wrong. Throw in the fact that the engine is so popular you can still get almost everything you need off the shelf, and the Mini’s appeal as an entry classic or a car for the keen DIYer is obvious.

While no mechanical problem is insurmountable or especially expensive to fix (body condition is far more important when buying), things to look for are excessive breathing and heavy oil consumption – which can point towards worn cylinder bores – overheating, oil leaking from the bottom of the head – which signifies head-gasket failure – difficulty starting due to low compression, and timing-chain rattle. Every A-series will need an overhaul in its life, but it’s a simple engine to fix.

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 165

GEARBOX

BODYWORK

The vast majority of Mini models have a four-speed, transmission-in-sump setup. While the earlier cars featuring a long, spindly gearchange are a bit hit and miss, most Minis that were built from the mid-1960s onwards have a rewarding, short-throw shift.

Some models came with a four-speed auto transmission, many of which have since been converted to manual. The original auto ’boxes were somewhat indecisive and frustrating to drive.

A popular modification is the addition of a Jack Knight five-speed gearbox (especially on Rover-era cars). This is a desirable upgrade, because it gives a far smoother cruising ability.

Rust is by far the biggest killer of Minis, and it can appear almost anywhere. The car’s diminutive size also (sadly) makes it quite easy for less scrupulous vendors to carry out quick and dirty tidy-up jobs.

The first place to look for clues is the front scuttle, especially where it meets the top of the wings. There should be a noticeable seam between the two, and while it’s normal (and indeed sensible) to put sealant between the joins, if it’s overly smooth or non-existent then there’s a very good chance that some pretty nasty rot is hiding beneath a tonne of filler.

Check also the bottoms and rear edges of the front wings, and inside the front wheelarches where the sills meet the bulkhead. Most Minis will have been repaired here at some point, as it’s a really vulnerable part of the car, but check the work has been done properly and is solid.

If you can get underneath (there’s not much room!) check the floors and sill areas carefully. If the sill-to-floor join is more than six inches inside the floorpan, the Mini has had over-sills fitted at some point.

It could be hiding some fairly disturbing rot elsewhere. Lift up the carpets and inspect the condition of the floors, as well as any seam-welded repairs, from inside the car.

Ensure they have been done properly.

Other key areas to check are the very bottom edges of the rear wings, where there is a moisture trap (repair sections are available), and the door frames. The

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Most Minis feature a very simple rubbercone suspension. This set-up was innovated by Alex Moulton, who later went on to develop Hydrolastic and Hydragas suspension systems for BMC. There were a few Hydrolastic Minis, but the ride quality wasn’t notably better and the added complexity was a lot more expensive to build and maintain.

Not a lot goes wrong with the general Mini set-up, although the rubber bushes do perish over time and will undoubtedly need renewing. Listen for knocking from the rear end of any car you are considering buying, as the back subframe bushes are particularly prone to wearing out.

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doors themselves can rust quite badly, but replacement is cheap and relatively easy. It is the same for bonnet and bootlid panels.

One more major check you should do is inside the boot. The subframe mounts are in here, so inspect the floor fully, paying attention to the top shock-absorber mounts. Any corrosion is costly to repair, and dangerous. Check at the rear near the boot lip, because the subframe also bolts up here. Lastly, remove the battery to check the condition of the box it sits in.

At the other end of the car, jack up the front and check for corrosion near the shock mounts and – most importantly – where the front subframe meets the floor. It’s the most important structural part of any Mini, and must be 100 percent sound on both sides.

INTERIOR The cabin of any Mini is pretty basic, but some parts are exclusive to certain models. Cars with sliding windows, cord interior door pulls and particular early production parts are collectable, but replacements can be hard to source.

In most examples, the speedometer is centrally located inside an oval binnacle, with coolant and fuel gauges either side.

It’s an iconic Mini feature, and was originally conceived to make producing both right- and left-hand-drive cars more cost effective, by not having to redesign the dashboard for each market.

Of course, the Mini is also a car that is

BUYING GUIDE

These early Minis with small rear lights, particularly the Cooper and Cooper S models, are the most valuable of all

‘Everybody has a Mini memory.

No other car has touched so many people in so many ways’

From Clubman to drop-top and pick-up, Mini spawned many varieties. Study any potential purchase to ensure you’re getting what you think you are

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 167

BMC/AUSTIN/MORRIS/ ROVER MINI MODEL HISTORY 1959: Morris Mini-Minor and Austin Se7en Mini launched The later Rover Minis are now equally classic. This is one of the sought-after Cooper Sport models

individual to each owner, so most have seen a degree of personalisation, with either a retrim or the addition of extra kit.

The majority of Minis will have been improved or made unique in their own way, and there’s no shortage of accessories to allow you to continue this trend – unless you’re a stickler for a standard model.

WHICH BMC/AUSTIN/ MORRIS/ROVER MINI TO BUY From a collectability perspective, very early models and Mk1, Mk2 and Mk3 Coopers are the most valuable – an immaculate early Cooper can be worth upwards of £50,000 in the right condition and with its original engine. Other variants with a keen following are the flatnose 1275GT, early Rover RSP Coopers and the very last Sport 500 cars.

But if you simply want a Mini for fun, you’ll get that from any model. The later cars are more refined and slightly quicker, but refinement is relative. Even a late Mini will deliver a bouncy ride, noisy cabin and weirdly upright driving position. These are part of its appeal and inherent character.

The cheapest examples are 1980s and 1990s mainstream models; City, Mayfair, Sprite or one of the myriad special editions.

If you just want ‘a Mini’, those are the ones to consider to maximise your budget.

Fair: £7000 Good: £10,100 Excellent: £13,500 Concours: £16,200 (1275GT) 168 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘A bouncy ride, noisy cabin and weirdly upright driving position are part of the Mini’s appeal and inherent character’

1960: Introduction of Austin Seven Countryman and Morris Mini-Minor Traveller three-door estates, both with 848cc engine from saloon models 1961: Austin Mini Cooper and Morris Mini Cooper two-door saloon arrive, both with larger, 997cc 55bhp engine 1963: Introduction of Austin Mini Cooper 1071S and Morris Mini Cooper 1071S two-door saloons, both with larger, 1071cc 70bhp engine 1964: Mini Moke is introduced 1964: Austin and Morris Mini Cooper 998, Mini Cooper 970 S and Mini Cooper 1275S launched. Latter models have 1275cc 76bhp engine 1965: Mini Automatic appears

SPECIFICATIONS Morris Mini-Minor Power: 34bhp Top speed: 75mph 0-60mph: 29.7 seconds Economy: 40mpg Rover RSP Cooper Power: 62bhp Top speed: 90mph 0-60mph: 13.5 seconds Economy: 39mpg

1967: Mini Mk2 – changes include improved interior and new rear lights 1969: Mini Clubman and 1275GT introduced with new flat nose 1980: All models now called Austin Mini.

Clubman and 1275GT dropped 1989: Mini 30 appears; announcement made that Cooper will return 1990: First limited-edition Rover Mini Coopers by Rover Special Products (RSP) 1991: Cooper added to range permanently 1993: Single-point fuel injection appears

Cooper Sport 500 Power : 62bhp Top speed: 90mph 0-60mph: 12.2 seconds Economy: 36mpg

1996: Mini ‘MPi’ introduced, with multi-point injection, now badged as 1.3i 1997: Cooper Sport introduced 2000: Mini production ends on October 4

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BUYING GUIDE

1950-2020

Morgan Plus 4, Plus 8 and V6 Roadster A staple of the quirky British marque’s range since 1950, this sports car has inspired several related models, too

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so tightly that an air filter couldn’t be fitted. Front disc brakes became optional in 1959, and were standardised the next year. Other than some body variations and a limited run of glassfibre cars, the Plus 4 recipe remained consistent for its entire production run, which came to an end in 2020 after three separate series.

Morgan’s 1968 introduction of a V8 was counted not as an upgrade, but as an entirely ‘new’ car, the Plus 8. With Rover’s Buick-sourced 3.5-litre engine shoehorned under its long bonnet, it saw Morgan move up to compete with an altogether

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE ORIGINAL PLUS 4 WAS effectively a wider, longer and more powerful version of the 4/4 model, which itself ran from 1936 to 1951 before being reintroduced in 1955. The Plus 4 received incremental improvements along the way, but its traditionally manufactured ash frame and rejection of contemporary automotive trends have remained consistent.

These improvements progressed from a Standard 2.0-litre four-cylinder through Triumph TR2, TR3 and TR4 units, the latter being squeezed into the engine bay

Open cockpit means trim is susceptible to damp. This is a V6 Roadster (with a Plus 8, above)

170 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘All variants still offer that multilayered driving experience peppered with quirks that makes owning a Morgan special’

different class of sports car. Demonstrably, the Plus 8 was the fastest-accelerating model in the UK for a number of years.

In true Morgan tradition, the Plus 8 was produced largely unchanged during its long production run. However, a new, larger-chassis variant was developed to accommodate the bigger engines. Notable upgrades included a five-speed manual gearbox and optional aluminium panels in 1977, plus the introduction of fuel injection and larger V8s. Longer doors were fitted from 1997 for easier access.

When the venerable Rover lump was finally discontinued in 2004, so too was the Plus 8 – for a while anyway. It returned in 2012 with a BMW V8 before being discontinued once again in 2018. The

Morgan Roadster arrived in 2004 as the Plus 8’s replacement. Its chassis and bodywork were largely identical to its predecessor’s, but now it was fitted with the Ford Mondeo ST220’s 3.0-litre V6.

This lighter engine produced more power than the V8 it replaced, making the Roadster surprisingly fast for something with so much 1930s DNA. It’s still being produced today, having received a larger 3.7-litre Ford Cyclone V6 in 2011. This version also had power steering as standard, which had formerly been limited to the Aero chassis and BMW V8 cars.

ENGINE The first-series Plus 4 (1950-1968) had Standard-Triumph four-cylinders. These

are largely reliable with no innate flaws, and parts are readily available. Do check for the usual symptoms of an unhealthy motor: overheating, a knocking bottom end, noisy tappets and undue oil use.

Early second-series Plus 4s (19852000) had 2.0-litre Fiat engines. These are rare – just 120 were built. A Rover unit superseded these in 1988. Common issues are worn cambelts and head-gasket leaks.

Third-series Plus 4s had a 2.0-litre Ford Duratec engine and the Roadster used a Ford V6. Both are dependable, but again check for regular maintenance and the usual warning signs of neglect.

The Rover V8 is generally reliable. Early Plus 8s tended to be poorly cooled, and timing chains can stretch. Cylinder-head

retention bolts on certain engines could cause issues, but later cars using the Land Rover-spec V8 did not have this problem.

Some Plus 8 parts can now be tough to get hold of. Morgan used a number of engines throughout the long run, so not every component is interchangeable. The BMW motors are more complex but should be just as hardy. Check that the previous owner has changed the oil at least once annually, even if mileage is low.

GEARBOX Early Plus 4s and Plus 8s had four-speed Moss transmissions. These can be tricky to repair and parts are costly. Regardless of the car, look out for jumping out of gear, ’box whine and a crunchy shift. These all

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 171

PLUS 4, PLUS 8 AND V6 ROADSTER MODEL HISTORY 1950: 2.0 Standard engine for new Plus 4 1951: Series 1 4/4 production ends 1954: 90bhp 2.0 TR2 engine introduced 1955: S.2 4/4 released 1956: 100bhp 2.0-litre TR3 engine arrives 1961: Tuned 116bhp Plus 4 Super Sports 1962: 2.1-litre TR4 engine standardised 1963: Glassfibre Plus 4 Plus; 26 produced 1965: Upgraded TR4A engine fitted Older cars are more historically interesting, even if performance can’t match that of newer ones

1968: S.1 Plus 4 ends. Plus 8 3.5 Rover V8 1977: Plus 8 gets more powerful V8

indicate underlying issues. BMW V8 autos should feel refined and change smoothly.

Similarly, check for any whining from the diff and leaks around its casing. The oil should ideally be changed every 5000 miles; this often-overlooked component can lead to big bills if left unchecked.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Chassis are very similar between all three models, and share similar issues. Morgan steering boxes aren’t that sharp, so don’t be alarmed by some play, particularly in Plus 4s and pre-1984 Plus 8s, which lack a rack-and-pinion system. Heavy steering points to worn track-rod ends, which should be greased every 5000 miles but are affordable to replace. If the column moves, the universal joint is worn.

The primitive suspension needs regular lubing. Front kingpins should be greased every 3000 miles, and rarely last over 25,000 miles. Some cars have a remote greasing point, which allows suspension lubrication from the engine bay. Rear leaf springs can sag, but their rudimentary design allows well priced replacements.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Repairing the traditional, complex chassis and body is a specialist job. A rotten ash frame means entire sections must be rebuilt. Such issues are hard to diagnose and can be hidden underneath an ostensibly presentable car. Luckily, this rarely affects

172 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

post-1980s models. Check the wooden rockers below each door and feel for loose tack pins by pressing along the inside of door panels. Later cars had better weather protection. The Morgan factory can supply the whole chassis member if required.

Extreme damp or incorrect storage can lead to rot. Once again, a specialist is best employed to assess condition. Panels can be sourced from Morgan itself.

Inside, check buttons and gauges, and inspect under the carpets for damp.

Replacement switchgear and trim is still available, but can be pricey. The hood and side-screens should fit well, and throwing a bucket of water over the top shouldn’t see (much) water dripping into the cabin.

WHICH MORGAN PLUS 4, PLUS 8 OR V6 ROADSTER TO BUY Incremental improvements over the years mean each Morgan will be unique, so a thorough test drive is essential. Used pricing seems unaffected by the broader market, and most hold their values well, although you’ll always pay more for good examples. The newer, faster generations tend to command higher prices, and their interior quality is also a step up. Even so, all variants still offer that multi-layered driving experience peppered with quirks that makes owning a Morgan special.

Fair: £18,600 Good: £28,600 Excellent: £40,800 Concours: £53,300 (’68 Plus 4)

1984: Fuel-injection for Plus 8; now 190bhp 1985: Plus 4 is back; 2.0-litre Fiat twin-cam 1988: Rover’s 2.0 M16 replaces Fiat unit 1990: Plus 8 gets 3.9-litre Rover V8 1992: Plus 4 gets Plus 8’s wide chassis; T16 1996: Plus 8 fitted with 240bhp 4.6-litre V8 2000: Plus 4 ceases production 2004: S.1 Plus 8 ends. S.3 Plus 4 gets 2.0 Ford Duratec. Roadster has Ford 3.0 V6 2011: S.2 Roadster gets Ford 3.7 V6 2012: Larger S.3 Plus 8 has BMW 4.8 V8 2018: Plus 8 ends; S.3 Plus 4 ends in 2020

SPECIFICATIONS Plus 4 2.0 Triumph TR3 4cyl Power: 100bhp Top speed: 96mph 0-60mph: 10 seconds (est.)

Economy: N/A Plus 8 3.5-litre Rover V8 Power: 143-190bhp Top speed: 124mph-plus 0-60mph: 6.0-6.7 seconds Economy: 25mpg (est.)

Roadster 3.0-litre Ford V6 Power: 223bhp Top speed: 134mph 0-60mph: 5.0 seconds Economy: 29mpg (est.)

Morgan Works Malvern is the Morgan Motor Company’s factory-owned dealership, based at the company’s historic home in Malvern, Worcestershire. With more than a century of brand knowledge, it presents the finest range of new and preowned Morgan models to market. Morgan Works Malvern also offer a range of aftersales services as well as restoration and reappointment for Morgan cars of all ages.

Morgan Works Malvern Pickersleigh Road, Malvern Link, Malvern WR14 2LL

Morgan Works London

(opening soon)

6 Astwood Mews, Kensington, London SW7 4DE

www.morganworks.co.uk/used sales@morgan-motor.co.uk 01684 215 511

1989-1995

Nissan Skyline GT-R R32

GT-R made a massive splash among motor sport fans when it arrived in the 1980s – and now it’s an icon!

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ESIGNED TO COMPETE IN international Group A racing, the GT-R32 was equipped with a high-tech all-wheeldrive system and over-engineered twinturbo 2.6-litre inline-six powerplant. This combination made it one of the quickest contemporary sports cars around.

The R32 launched in late 1989 and entered into Group A the following year.

The new car didn’t initially make the

174 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

splash one might have expected, primarily because it was made available only in Japan. That all changed when it began dominating the Group A racing series like no other car that had come before.

It remained undefeated in its home country over four years, and took top honours at Spa and the Nürburgring, too.

The Australians named it ‘Godzilla’ after it beat the all-conquering Sierra Cosworth at the Bathurst 1000 two years in a row. The

ATTESA E-TS AWD system was great at putting down the power in a variety of conditions. Official output was a claimed 276bhp (a lie necessitated by the Japanese laws of the time), but no R32 produced less than 300bhp once the boost restrictor was removed. Minor modifications can push figures much higher, and thanks to this easy tunability, finding a stock R32 today is virtually impossible.

Continued racing successes led to Victory (V-Spec) special editions being released, many of which were built in very limited numbers and have values to match.

Over 40,000 standard cars were produced, too, and these are also starting to climb in value. While there are still deals to be had, the R32 is fully deserving of its renewed fame. After all, it is a historically significant and very capable world-beating sports car.

ENGINE The R32’s heart and soul is the RB26DETT inline-six. These engines are basically bulletproof if left standard – but few are.

The stock boost restrictor could be removed to increase the power to around

BUYING GUIDE

GEARBOX While the five-speeder can handle abuse, it is generally the last component to get upgraded. Consequently, many fail due to excessive boost pressures. Check for any crunching, especially when shifting into fifth. Although the unit does not like to be rushed, changes should be smooth.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The suspension is fairly straightforward, and tends to require nothing more than periodic damper and rubber bushing replacements. Examples with largerdiameter wheels and track settings can make for an extremely hard ride and uneven rubber wear. If your car is not standard (which is highly likely), make sure that the modifications have been professionally installed.

Brakes are standard steel units, and they work well unless you are running 400bhpplus. In that case they may overheat, leading to cracked pads and warped discs.

BODYWORK Rust is common, and there are a few problem areas. Take a good look around the whole car, but pay particular attention to the rear arches and window surrounds, and the jacking points. Damage here can lead to rusting on the underside and sills.

INTERIOR A typically 1990s Japanese cabin means loads of plastic, hard-wearing seat trim and reliable electronics. However, after three decades, do expect moderate wear and tear on even the best examples. Many owners install updated radios, and a lot of electrical issues can be traced back to alarms and other non-standard kit.

Sourcing minor trim can be a hassle, but there are a number of specialists and enthusiast clubs that can point you in the right direction. Even so, certain items such as OEM front seats can be costly.

NISSAN

310bhp, and the majority of cars have at least been remapped, adding another 40bhp. If a larger turbocharger and more aggressive map are installed, the internals will require upgrading, too.

The timing belt must be replaced regularly, and any new purchase should be treated to a full service, especially if it is a fresh import. Low oil pressure tends to be an issue on these engines, and if the tappets are very noisy on start-up, the oil pump may be faulty. Coil packs can also cause misfiring and rough running issues.

Standard turbos tend to disintegrate under high boost, and specialists usually rebuild them with stronger steel impellers instead of the ceramic factory-fitted ones.

Over-revving can damage crankshafts.

Ensure the engine’s health by checking for any rough high-rev behaviour or excessive blue exhaust smoke under boost.

GT-R R32 dominated contemporary Group A racing like no other car that had come before

WHICH NISSAN SKYLINE GT-R R32 TO BUY The GT-R R32 not only introduced a new level of performance to the sports car world, it also made the segment available to a far larger audience thanks to attractive pricing and fairly large build numbers.

Almost every example has seen some form of modification, and if done properly it can make for a very fast and enjoyable machine. Standard ones are highly prized and offer the best investment potential.

Most cars still reside in Japan, although many have found homes in Australia, the UK and the US. This has positively affected prices, but values are still generally below European rivals’ from the same period.

If you are looking for one of the limited editions such as the V-Spec I or II, be prepared to pay significantly more. The very rare NISMOs are even more valuable, and few venture out of Japan. Standard low-mileage examples are extremely unusual now, and the astronomical figures they command reflect their desirability.

With a renewed interest in these special cars pushing prices higher across the board, it’s vital to ensure that your potential purchase has been well cared for.

There are plenty out there, so take your time to find a Godzilla that will destroy the competition and not your bank account.

RB Motorsport kindly supplied the technical information contained in this guide. It is Classic Trader’s recommended Skyline GT-R R32 specialist.

Fair: £17,800 Good: £24,300 Excellent: £30,100 Concours: £46,200 (1991 R32)

NISSAN SKYLINE GT-R R32 MODEL HISTORY 1989: Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 goes on sale in Japan. Factory-fitted restrictor limits power to 276bhp. Group A restrictions limit wheel size to 16 inches 1990: Very rare NISMO GT-R built; 500 for road and 60 for track 1993: V-Spec I model introduced to celebrate Group A victories. Features bigger brakes, 17-inch alloys and updated four-wheel-drive system; 1453 units built 1994: V-Spec II model arrives, with only change over V-Spec I being wider tyres; 1303 units manufactured 1995: Skyline R32 production ends, with a total of 40,390 standard models having been manufactured

SPECIFICATIONS 2.6-litre twin-turbo inline-six Power: 276bhp Top speed: 155mph 0-60mph: 5.6 seconds Economy: 19mpg CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 175

BUYING GUIDE

1984-1994

Peugeot 205 GTI A true benchmark in its day, the 205 GTI remains a feisty little hatch that’s still (mostly) reasonably priced

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HE 1980S WAS A GREAT time for hot hatches. Cheap, quick and perfect for the daily grind, impressive offerings from Volkswagen, Ford, MG, Vauxhall and Lancia vied for attention. Rising above them all, though, was Peugeot’s inimitable 205 GTI, which offered superb dynamics and punchy performance thanks to a revvy 1.6-litre motor and a featherweight bodyshell.

The standard 205 arrived in 1983, with the more powerful GTI variant coming the following year. Its launch coincided with the introduction of the three-door bodystyle to the hatchback range. Its 1.6 mill may have been good for a ‘mere’ 105bhp, but with just 850kg

to push along, performance was more than a little sprightly.

A 128bhp (123bhp on later cars equipped with distributorless ignition and a catalyst) 1.9-litre version was introduced in 1986, while the following year the 1.6 got a revised cylinder head, increasing power by 10bhp. Some prefer the smaller motor for its eagerness to rev, while others like the torquier 1.9 engine.

Slightly longer gearing also makes the latter less buzzy on motorways.

Aside from minor updates, the GTI carried on mostly unchanged all the way through to 1994. Years of low values and ‘enthusiastic’ ownership have seen many of them consigned to the scrapyard, but those that remain are now rising in

value, especially the relatively rare lowmileage, unabused examples.

PEUGEOT, MAGIC CAR PICS

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

Interior is mostly hard wearing, but the seat bolsters will usually be showing wear and tear

176 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

Both the 1.6 and 1.9-litre engines are robust, but infrequent oil changes can lead to a number of issues. Using the correct grade and filter is essential.

Worn valve-stem seals are not that uncommon, and if your car smokes on initial start-up and over-run they may need attention. The cambelt and water pump should last around four years, so check whether these items are in imminent need of replacement.

The gearbox is strong, but worn synchros are a known issue. A loosefeeling shifter can usually be traced back

‘Rising above its rivals, Peugeot’s inimitable 205 GTI offered superb dynamics and punchy performance’

to worn linkages or bushes. A mid-life transmission modification was carried out; earlier cars had the gate for the reverse ratio on the left, while later models had it on the right. The biggest difference between GTI models was the shorter gearing on 1.6-litre cars.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Knocks and creaks from the suspension can be due to worn bushes and suspension-mount bearings or leaking shock absorbers. The rear-axle radiusarm bearings are known to wear out.

Axles will need a refresh every 80,000 miles, so check when this was last done.

Upgraded brakes are not uncommon, and larger calipers and discs from other

Peugeots can fit with modification.

However, on the 1.9 and base model only the front hubs can be upgraded; the 1.6 had a larger offset to compensate for its narrower wheels. The 1.9s had discs at the rear from the factory.

Lowering kits were also popular in period, but a well sorted car on the standard set-up is arguably the better drive on undulating back roads.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR A lightweight bodyshell may pay dividends when it comes to performance, but it also makes the GTI rather susceptible to accident damage because the panels are very thin.

Rust is not as prevalent as you might

expect, but it is something to watch out for. Commonly affected areas include the rear sills and lower quarter panels, back chassis rail by the fuel tank, boot floor, under the rear bench from back glass-seal leaks, rear bumper side mounts and front inner wheelarches.

The 205 GTI interior is mostly hard wearing, but the leather or fabric on the door cards and seats will likely be showing wear and tear by now. The red carpets can also be badly stained.

The 1.9-litre models had half-leather upholstery, while 1.6-litre models had cloth seats. Replacement trim is not always easy to source, so factor any missing items into your offer. Specialist Pug1off offers a full retrim service, which CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 177

To homologate the T16 Group B rally car, 200 road-going examples were created

costs around £1400 depending on the model. Carpet sets are also now produced.

Items such as the coin tray are also available thanks to the aftermarket, but for the general dash materials, condition is the most important factor. Plastics and switches should all be in good order, and non-original gearknobs and stereo head units are common. OEM replacement gearknobs are available from Pug1off.

‘There is much to love about this effervescent car; it’s extremely enjoyable to hustle down a challenging road’

WHICH PEUGEOT 205 GTI TO BUY The 205 GTI market has been on a steady upward trajectory for a number of years.

A few have sold for ridiculous prices, but a decent car in good condition is still well within reach for most enthusiasts.

Multiple owners, accident damage and mods are unfortunately rather common, but there are still a good number of clean, well maintained cars out there. Take your time and drive a few before committing.

High mileage isn’t a problem if the model comes with a comprehensive service history, and this is the more costeffective way into a 205 GTI. Restored and low-mileage examples often sell at two to three times the value of a merely ‘good’ car, and since the point here is to drive the thing, there is little reason to pay above the odds for a garage queen.

The choice between 1.6- and 1.9-litre comes down to personal preference; both offer a fun and zesty drive. The larger engine’s extra power is slightly mitigated 178 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

by it being a little less willing to rev.

Sunroofs were available, but the GTI remains a sparsely equipped car – as it should be. Many non-sunroof models were swallowed up for racing and rallying, but such examples remain popular with collectors. The least desirable options are the Britax accessory sunroofs often installed during the early 1990s.

There is much to love about this effervescent little car. Its immediate responses and tiny footprint make it extremely enjoyable to hustle down a challenging road. Unlike today’s bloated and overpowered hot hatches, the 205 GTI produces fun at accessible speeds.

Pug1off kindly supplied this guide’s technical details, and is one of Classic Trader’s recommended specialists for the Peugeot 205 GTI. Fair: £7200 Good: £12,600 Excellent: £19,300 Concours: £27,300 (1989 1.9)

PEUGEOT 205 GTI MODEL HISTORY 1983: Peugeot 205 introduced, initially only as a five-door 1984: 205 GTI launched in three-door bodystyle. 105bhp 1.6-litre engine and five-speed manual as standard 1986: 128bhp 1.9-litre introduced (123bhp on later, cat-equipped cars).

Changes include longer gearing, rear disc brakes and part-leather seats 1987: 1.6-litre engine receives a power bump to 115bhp 1994: Final 205 GTI rolls off production line. A handful of special-edition models had been produced (mostly between 1989-1994) - the main differences being unique exterior colours and extra equipment

SPECIFICATIONS 1.6-litre inline-four Power: 105-115bhp Top speed: 125mph 0-60mph: 8.6-8.9 seconds Economy: 35mpg (est.)

1.9-litre inline-four Power: 123-128bhp Top speed: 128mph 0-60mph: 7.8 seconds Economy: 28.1mpg (est.)

PREVIOUSLY SOLD 1960/62 ALFA ROMEO SZ II ‘CODA TRONCA’ £POA The well-known ‘Chilean’ car, bodied by Zagato to Coda Tronca specification in 1962.

Returned to Europe unrestored in 1990. Recent Goodwood Revival participant, lots of spares and offered from the same family ownership for last 20 years.

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8 LD 201 O S & 17 1984 PEUGEOT 205 T16 £155,000 0 Street version finished in Dark Charcoal with grey leather2interior. Same ownership for the last 24 years and displaying just 8,800kms on the odometer (which is well charted in the history file). UK registered and in fine fettle throughout.

1981 FERRARI 512 BBi Belgian supplied, this example was exported directly to the USA whe until the late 80s before coming home to Europe. UK-owned sinc displaying just 36,000kms it presents and drives extremely well. Excel

2000 PORSCHE 911 – 996 GT3 R Race-winning example with FIA GT history in 2000 and 2001. Eligible f Endurance Racing Legends Series. Wonderfully unmolested example same livery when it won at the A-1 Ring in 2000. Small selection of spa

Please visit our website for more information and to subscribe to our newsletter

+44 (0)1252 759009

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www.markdonaldson.com

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Having grown up in the ‘80s and being around the complete spread of Group B cars all my life, I have an unrivalled passion for these incredible beasts. The first time I experienced a 205 T16 was in 1994, when my father purchased an ex Peugeot Sport T16 (as pictured above) finished in Pearlescent white. With the added PTS performance upgrade kit, the memory of being driven in it is indelible to this day.

During my career, I have handled the sale of a wide spread of T16 examples in varying guises. If you are considering buying or selling a T16 (or indeed any Group B car), I welcome your call.

Please visit website for more information and newsletter subscription

+44 (0)1252 759009 • www.markdonaldson.com

BUYING GUIDE

1965-1976

Porsche 912 The 912 may have been an entry-level model, but its subtle charms are getting it the recognition it deserves

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HE PORSCHE 912 WAS an attempt to bridge the gap between the ageing 356 and recently introduced but expensive 911. It combined the engine of the former with the bodyshell of the latter, a formula that proved extremely popular.

Outselling the 911 two to one, it was clear that there was a thriving market for a lower-powered sports car with a modern design. The 90bhp 1.6-litre flatfour from a 356 was profiled for extra torque in the mid-range. And while the 912 gave up a few bhp compared with the older model, and weighed over 45kg more, performance was similar thanks to tighter gear ratios (on the optional five-speed ’box) and better aerodynamics.

The interior made do without some of the luxury trim and finishes of the 911, and only minor changes were carried out during production. A Targa variant was

introduced in 1967, while the wheelbase was extended slightly in 1969, the final year of manufacture.

The 912 was resurrected once more in 1975, as the US market-only 912E. Its purpose was to offer customers a budget Porsche while the outgoing 914 was replaced by the front-engined 924. The 912E may have been old even when new, but its fuel-injected 2.0-litre motor gave it acceptable performance (although not much quicker than the 1.6-litre 912), and its handling was more predictable than that of the heavier and more powerful 911s of that period.

Once it went out of production, the 912 didn’t fare as well. Values stayed low for decades, and most were overlooked in favour of the more powerful six-cylinder 911s, or used as a source of cheap parts. It took a while for that sentiment to change, but over the past decade the 912 has been

swept up in the air-cooled Porsche frenzy.

Values peaked in 2016, with certain cars commanding prices as high as those of some of their more powerful stablemates.

MAGIC CAR PICS

ENGINE AND GEARBOX

Basic interior shares some components with 911. Finding minor trim pieces can be a challenge

180 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

The pushrod 1.6-litre flat-four used in all 912s until 1969 was already a triedand-tested unit, and it has few inherent issues. Most have been rebuilt by now, and a popular modification is the use of Weber carburettors in the place of the original Solex units.

Most components are still available, and there are a number of enhancements that can increase power output if originality is not paramount. Oil level and pressure gauges were not fitted as

‘Values stayed low for years, but over the past decade the 912 has been swept up in the air-cooled Porsche frenzy’

standard on the 912, so checking the lubricant regularly is recommended.

The 912E was fitted with a Volkswagenderived 2.0-litre fuel-injected engine, which is of a relatively basic design and was also used in the outgoing 914. The Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection is relatively trouble free, as well.

Both the standard four-speed and optional close-ratio five-speed gearboxes are hardy units. The lower torque output of the 912 motors puts less strain on the components, although worn synchros and sloppy changes are common issues on high-mileage cars.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The 912 came fitted with solid disc

brakes and similar suspension to the first 911s. The brakes are fine for normal road use, but some cars have been converted to the 911’s ventilated discs or aftermarket items.

Few models were sold with the standard wheels, because the 14-inch Fuchs alloys were a popular option. Shocks, springs and bushes will need attention if the car feels particularly floaty over bumps.

BODYWORK Corrosion is a serious issue that can quickly become a financial nightmare if the chassis and bodyshell are too far gone. Only the 912E was offered with a galvanised bodyshell, but even these cars are now well over 40 years old, so a

thorough inspection of any potential purchase is essential.

You should pay particular attention to the underside as well as the sills, footwells, headlight surrounds and window frames. Body panels can be pricey, and certain exterior trim pieces are hard to come by – something to bear in mind if you are buying a project.

INTERIOR The 912’s basic interior shares several components with the 911, and the earliest examples carried over some switchgear from the 356, as well.

Getting hold of some of the minor trim pieces can be a challenge, so try to find a car with as complete a cabin as

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 181

912E was introduced for American market, with 914’s fuel-injected 2.0-litre powerplant

possible. Refurbished interiors are fairly common, but the original fabrics and seat coverings are hard wearing, and original fittings can increase the value of a car.

The first batch of 912s came with no decorative trim and three-gauge instrument clusters, and had dashboards painted the same colour as the car’s exterior. Five-gauge clusters were then introduced a few years into production.

WHICH PORSCHE 912 TO BUY The days of bargain-priced 912s are long gone. The generally positive sentiment towards air-cooled Porsches has spilled over to these once-overlooked models, and the increase in values has seen many ‘pristine’ examples popping up.

It is worth bearing in mind, though, that many years of apathy equate to some very tired examples out there, hiding their evils under a fresh coat of paint. Getting a specialist to inspect a potential purchase is therefore highly advisable. Modifications are common, so finding an original car will be hard. Subtle engine and suspension upgrades shouldn’t be an issue.

Finding a good one may take time, because these are rare cars. The majority of 912s in the UK will be the earlier 1.6-litre coupés; these tend to be the most affordable way into ownership. Values are somewhat higher for the rarer Targas.

The short-wheelbase cars of either bodystyle are also very popular. Some 182 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Sweet handling and delicate balance reaffirm the fact that the 912 is far from a cut-price 911; it’s a thoroughly enjoyable classic in its own right’ US-spec 912Es have found their way over to Europe, and if you prefer to keep your model standard then the 2.0-litre fuelinjected engine makes them worth a look.

Whichever version you opt for, these cars’ sweet handling and delicate balance will reaffirm the fact that the 912 is far from a cut-price 911; it is a thoroughly enjoyable classic Porsche in its own right.

Adrian Crawford at Williams Crawford kindly supplied the technical information contained in this guide. The West Country specialist has been dealing with Porsches for 30 years, and buys, sells, services, repairs and restores all models. Williams Crawford is one of Classic Trader’s recommended Porsche specialists.

Fair: £27,200 Good: £38,100 Excellent: £55,400 Concours: £81,100 (1968 912)

PORSCHE 912 MODEL HISTORY 1965: 912 introduced as cost-effective alternative to 911, initially available only in Europe. Offered with 356’s 90bhp 1.6-litre flat-four, combined with a 911 bodyshell and either a four-speed or optional five-speed manual transmission 1966: 912 goes on sale in US. Dashboards now finished in black instead of body colour 1967: Targa variant introduced 1969: Wheelbase lengthened to help improve road manners.

912 production ends 1975: US-specific 912E introduced using Volkswagen-derived 2.0-litre fuel-injected flat-four from outgoing 914 1976: 912E production ends

SPECIFICATIONS 1.6-litre flat-four Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

90bhp 119mph 11.6 seconds 25mpg (est.)

2.0-litre flat-four Power: 95bhp (est.)

Top speed: 115mph 0-60mph: 9.7 seconds Economy: 25mpg (est.)

1982-1991

Porsche 944

The winning formula that made the 944 such a major sales success in its day is also what makes it a great buy four decades later

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URING THE LATE 1970S, Porsche was desperate to increase sales revenues by replacing its ageing 911. To achieve this, it released two front-engined cars – the 924 and 928. The former definitely helped bolster profit margins, but many customers were disappointed by its Volkswagen-sourced engine and subsequent poor performance. The runout cars proved far more accomplished, but when the 944 joined the range it was a more convincing sports car from outset.

When it was introduced in 1982, the 184 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

transverse-engined 944 was based on the 924 platform, and offered a great mix of performance and practicality. It was initially powered by a 163bhp 2.5-litre inline-four engine (effectively half of a contemporary 928 V8 motor), but 2.7 and 3.0-litre variants were gradually introduced, with ultimate power outputs peaking at 208bhp.

The turbocharged versions produced between 217bhp and 247bhp, and easily eclipsed the performance of contemporary naturally aspirated 911s. Driveability and practicality were better, too, although

the vestigial rear seats turned out to be no more accommodating than those in Porsche’s core model.

Sales took off like never before, with the 944 becoming the best-selling model in the marque’s history. Now, 30 years after the final 944 rolled off the production line, the charms of this popular model are still readily apparent. The inherently impressive build quality and reliable underpinnings have made it a popular classic, and good examples are always in high demand with collectors.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Annual oil changes are essential to prevent damage to the engine. Also, the timing belt and balance-shaft belt should be replaced every four years regardless of mileage covered. The 944 S2 went the camchain route, which must be renewed every 90,000-100,000 miles.

A vibrating motor could point to balance-shaft issues or cracked engine mounts. Turbos are reliable, but do inspect the manifold for cracks as this is a pricey part to replace. Power-steering

BUYING GUIDE

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The suspension system is generally quite tough, but check the bushes and shock absorbers for undue wear. An example that tramlines or wallows in corners may need these parts to be replaced.

Brake calipers can seize, especially on a car that’s not driven regularly, although the braking system itself is reliable.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Rust is a problem despite all 944s being galvanised from the factory. Accident damage is not uncommon, either, so make sure you check for uneven panel gaps and signs of overspray. Corrosion can set in most frequently around the wheelarches, door sills and boot floor.

The cabin layout changed midway through production. Pre-1985 cars had a simpler interior mimicking the 924’s, while newer cars had a more modern, oval dash design. Parts are generally available for both set-ups, and the finishes

‘Impressive build quality and reliable underpinnings have made 944 very popular; good examples are always in demand’

and materials used are durable. Look out for damaged headlining (especially on sunroof-equipped models) and check that the electrics are all working.

WHICH PORSCHE 944 TO BUY Be wary of ultra-low mileage cars. As with any classic, they are far less troublesome if regularly driven. In the case of the 944, beware of clocked examples as well.

The incremental evolution that every Porsche road car undergoes makes the later models the most desirable of the lot, but thanks to the tried-and-tested 924 platform on which the 944 is based, even the early examples are appealing.

As well as the larger-capacity engines found in the 1989-on 944s, some buyers may also prefer the facelifted looks that were carried out in 1985. If you like the elegant simplicity of the earlier 2.5-litre models, then be aware that US cars produced up to 20bhp less than their European counterparts.

Turbos and the 3.0-litre S2 models are always sought after. Both offer strong performance, with the latter being a bit more responsive at low speeds and the Turbo quicker everywhere else.

All variants offer reasonable running costs if they have been well maintained.

This is why evidence of a solid service history is always more important than mileage or model year.

Avoid suspiciously cheap cars, because the cost to get them right will be far higher than simply buying a sorted car in the first place. For our money, a latemodel S2 coupé ticks a lot of boxes, but you may prefer the faster Turbos or the uncomplicated lines of a pre-facelift model. There is no wrong choice here.

Adrian Crawford at Williams Crawford kindly supplied the technical information contained in this guide. The West Country specialist has been dealing with Porsches for 30 years, and buys, sells, services, repairs and restores all models. Williams Crawford remains Classic Trader’s recommended Porsche specialist.

Fair: £9900 Good: £14,400 Excellent: £17,800 Concours: £28,800 (S2 coupé)

PORSCHE

fluid pooling on the floor can sometimes just be due to cracked pipes or the reservoir, but if it’s the pump itself be prepared for a big bill.

Most cars came equipped with a fivespeed manual transmission. When not abused, clutches can last over 80,000 miles, but replacing them requires the gearbox to be removed. It is therefore important to check for any juddering or slippage when on your test drive.

Some cars came with a three-speed automatic, which is also reliable but not ideal for spirited driving. CV joints can lead to drivetrain vibrations if worn out.

Based on 924 platform, new 944 offered a great mix of performance and practicality

PORSCHE 944 MODEL HISTORY 1981: Porsche 944 shown to public for first time at Frankfurt Motor Show 1982: 944 coupé released, initially with 163bhp 2.5-litre engine, with a five-speed manual or three-speed automatic ’box 1985: Updated dashboard with better ventilation and numerous other design changes arrives. 217bhp Turbo on sale 1986: 944S with uprated 187bhp introduced. ABS becomes optional 1988: 247bhp Turbo S. ABS across range 1989: 208bhp 3.0-litre 944 S2 coupé and cabriolet (first 944 drop-top) introduced 1990: 944 Turbo now offered in cabrio form 1991: 944 production ends

SPECIFICATIONS 2.5-litre inline-four Power: 143-187bhp Top speed: 140mph (est.)

0-60mph: 8.3-9.0 seconds Economy: 25mpg (est.)

3.0-litre inline-four Power: 208bhp Top speed: 150mph 0-60mph: 6.0 seconds Economy: 25mpg (est.)

2.5-litre turbocharged inline-four Power: 217-247bhp Top speed: 165mph 0-60mph: 5.5-5.9 seconds Economy: 20mpg (est.)

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 185

BUYING GUIDE

1989-1998

Porsche 964 and 993 These generations of the legendary 911 represent the pinnacle of three decadesworth of air-cooled Porsche development

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rear spoiler. The Carrera 4 coupé arrived first, showcasing a version of the allwheel-drive system that was first used in the 959 supercar.

The Carrera 2 followed soon after, along with a cabriolet and Targa bodystyle.

Turbos and RS models also joined the standard cars, with the most powerful 381bhp Turbo S capable of a serious 180mph. Despite being produced for only four years, over 63,000 of all variants were built, the most common being the Carrera 2 and 4 coupés.

This heralded the release of the 993.

To this day it is revered as the last of the air-cooled lineage of 911s, and it represented a decisive step forward for

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE 964 ARRIVED IN 1989, and received a much-needed tech boost to stave off the competition and complement its many incremental improvements.

Much was made of the fact that over 80 percent of the car was totally new compared with its predecessor, but underneath the fresh body panels it still retained much of what had made the 1960s original such a desirable sports car.

As the first 911 to have a front and rear coil-spring suspension design, the 964 reduced the car’s tail-happy tendencies.

ABS braking and power steering were other 911 firsts, as was all-wheel drive and that cool, electronically controlled

Interiors were well built but will be showing wear by now. Check all switches and buttons work

186 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Underneath the fresh body panels, 964 still retained much of what had made the 1960s original such a desirable sports car’

Porsche. Externally, only the bonnet and roof were shared with its predecessor, while the mechanicals had undergone a major overhaul, too. Most notably, the tricky on-the-limit handling of previous 911s had been largely tamed by the new multi-link LSA rear-suspension set-up.

The 3.6-litre engine was also much improved, now producing 272bhp (up from 247bhp) and then 285bhp from 1996-on, when the VarioRam induction system was introduced. Coupé, convertible and Targa bodystyles were made available; the latter was unlike earlier Targas, in that it had a full-length sunroof that could slide back behind the rear window.

While most cars were equipped with a six-speed manual transmission, an

uprated Tiptronic automatic was also on offer, and both rear and all-wheel-drive models were available, too. The most common versions are manual Carrera 2 coupés, and to many they are the best of the ‘standard’ models, with values generally being higher than the Targa and anything equipped with a Tiptronic gearbox. The much rarer Carrera S and 4S variants used the wider Turbo bodyshell and were slightly lower than standard.

These are always in strong demand.

The 296bhp RS arrived in 1995, as did the all-wheel-drive 402bhp Turbo. The vicious 444bhp GT2 followed soon after, and it’s these models, along with the updated 426bhp Turbo S, that have long been the most highly sought after.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX Both machines come equipped with the legendary 3.6-litre Mezger flat-six engine, which is certainly a strong unit but is far from bulletproof.

On both cars, oil leaks are the most common problem to look for. These can come from anywhere from the valve covers and chains to the oil lines themselves. If you notice a puddle on the garage floor, it is best to investigate the source of the leak sooner rather than later. Also, the 964 was the first 911 to be fitted with an undertray, so check this for oil on both cars, too.

Even when no leaks are apparent, the engine is quite fond of using up to 1.0-litre of oil every 600 miles. Aside

from this, the M64 powerplant is known to be quite reliable, and contemporary issues that plagued earlier 911s were largely absent for 993 owners.

Engine mounts can wear out, though, which will be announced as a vibration in the cabin, and driveshafts can also require attention well before the odometer hits the 100,000-mile mark.

The Tiptronic transmission was first introduced on the 964. It’s a robust unit that has few issues, but if the torque converter is noisy a big bill may be around the corner. Manual 964s had dual-mass flywheels until 1991, and this can be expensive to repair if it plays up. This isn’t an issue for 993 cars. Clutches can be expected to last for up to 70,000 miles.

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 187

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR

built, although most cars will be showing wear on the front-seat side bolsters, door handles and gearknob. Leather was optional in the 964, and a retrim can make a big difference to a tatty-looking interior.

Check that all the switches and buttons work, because blown fuses and damaged wiring can cause a number of issues.

Look for damp carpets, especially in the convertible and Targa-top examples.

Ineffective air-conditioners can be pricey to rectify, and check that the heating works, too. Replacing the heat exchangers is not cheap, either. Convertible tops can shrink, so ensure the roof fits well, and that the mechanism works smoothly.

Although 911 bodyshells had been fully galvanised since the mid-1970s, the average 964 is now 30 years old so corrosion can occur. This is most prevalent from a leaking convertible or Targa roof, as well as due to poorly repaired accident damage.

Some areas of the 964 are also more prone to rust than others. These include the front and rear windscreen surrounds, back arches and wings, as well as behind the front bumper. If the bodyshell is too far gone, restoring the car may be financially unviable unless you are getting a massive discount on the purchase price.

The 993 can also have rust issues, so check both screen edges and around the front wings and headlights. Door straps are a known weak point, and tend to break.

The interior of both models is well

The Porsche 964 ushered in the final era of the air-cooled 911. It introduced ABS, power steering, all-wheel drive and coil-spring rear suspension to the mix, and became a strong seller despite a short production run.

A manual Carrera 2 coupé takes some beating, and this variant along with the all-wheel-drive Carrera 4 coupé were the most popular models back in the day.

A post-1992 example with the uprated gearbox and higher-quality interior would be a great investment. We would avoid the Tiptronic transmission unless you specifically want a self-shifter.

The convertibles sold well, too, but you may struggle to find a decent Targa. It is worth keeping in mind that values for

The 964’s lower control-arm bushes and shocks will need replacing at least every 70,000 miles; for the 993, it should be done every 50,000 miles. The brakes are strong on both cars and stand up well to abuse. Cracked or warped discs generally indicate that the model has led a tough life. The brake pedal should feel hard; if it goes very low or slowly sinks, there could be an issue with the system.

Brake pads can wear unevenly on both machines. This can be highlighted by the caliper plates, which is a common issue.

188 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

WHICH 964 OR 993 TO BUY

‘Few classics can be driven daily and still deliver the adrenaline rush of purpose-built sports cars, but that’s these Porsches’ charm’ these models were low for years, which means that servicing and maintenance records can be patchy. Walk away if a car appears to have been neglected. Turbos, whether the earlier 3.3 or updated 3.6, are still indecently quick, and they command a healthy premium over the standard cars. Limited-edition models such as the Speedster are the priciest of the lot, and are often viewed more as an investment than something to be driven.

If you do intend to drive your car, and want the most intense and engaging experience from a 964, then it has to be the Carrera RS 3.8. The lightweight, trackhoned special is arguably the best of the bunch, although its very focused nature may limit its appeal – as will the stratospheric pricing. The 964 may have spent much of its time in the shadow of its 993 replacement, but it offers a similarly

The 993 (left) is revered as the last of the air-cooleds.

Its styling was smoother and more modern than the 964’s (far left) and its suspension was improved

Drop-top added wind-in-the-hair thrills to the standard high-performance excitement

Sought-after 964 Carrera RS was adorned with huge spoiler, which sets it apart from the rest

engaging classic 911 driving experience at a more attainable price point.

While values for the 964 and earlier 911s dipped in previous years, the 993 has always had strong residuals. This means there are fewer poorly maintained 993s out there – but don’t get complacent; a problem car can still cost plenty to sort.

Any of the naturally aspirated 993 Carreras should suit your performance needs. Manuals tend to command a premium over Tiptronics, and Targas are less favoured than the coupés and cabrios.

At the other end of the scale are the Turbo, Turbo S and GT2 (just 100 of these were produced). These are still as quick as some modern sports cars, but (especially in the case of the GT2) require skill to drive well. The rare, lightweight, naturally aspirated RS is a track weapon you can drive on the street, and values have reached stratospheric levels.

Few classics can be driven as daily transport and still deliver the kind of adrenaline rush generally reserved for purpose-built sports cars, but that is the charm of the 964 and 993. They represent a high point in the 911’s long history, and remain as desirable as ever.

The technical information contained in this guide was kindly supplied by Porsche specialist Canford Classics.

Fair: £33,200 Good: £43,600 Excellent: £62,500 Concours: £75,600 (964 C2) 190 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘The 964 and 993 represent a high point in the 911’s long history, and remain as desirable as ever’

SPECIFICATIONS 964 3.6-litre flat-six – Carrera 2 Power: 250bhp Top speed: 163mph 0–60mph: 5.5 seconds Economy: 24mpg 993 3.6-litre flat-six Power: 272-285bhp Top speed: 168mph 0–60mph: 5.2 seconds (est.)

Economy: 25mpg (est.)

3.6-litre turbocharged flat-six Power: 402-450bhp Top speed: 180-184mph 0–60mph: 3.7-4.3 seconds Economy: 20mpg (est.)

PORSCHE 964 AND 993 MODEL HISTORY 1989: Type 964 Carrera 4 launched.

250bhp 3.6-litre flat-six and six-speed transmission are standard fitment, as is all-wheel-drive set-up 1990: Carrera 2, Targa and cabriolet bodystyles added to range. Four-speed Tiptronic gearbox becomes optional 1991: 320bhp 3.3-litre 964 Turbo variant introduced 1992: 260bhp Carrera RS introduced in Sport and Touring trims. Carrera 2 offered with Turbo wide-body look 1993: Uprated 360bhp 3.6-litre Turbo offered alongside 381bhp Turbo S. Rare 911 Speedster introduced. 300bhp Carrera RS 3.8 becomes available and C4 30 Jahre edition built to celebrate 30 years of 911s (911 examples made) 1994: All Type 964 911 production ends.

993 Carrera released. Initially in RWD and equipped with six-speed manual gearbox 1995: AWD Carrera 4 introduced and fourspeed Tiptronic ’box becomes option.

Carrera RS, Turbo and GT2 models all make appearance throughout year 1996: All Carreras receive VarioRam induction system, taking power up to 285bhp, and Targa body introduced.

Carrera 4S using Turbo body revealed 1997: Carrera S gets wide Turbo look 1998: Production of all 993 models ends, starting with Carrera and Carrera 4; S and Turbo variants last to go

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BUYING GUIDE

1996-2004

Porsche Boxster 986

‘Thanks to the midengined layout, the Boxster was even more composed around fast bends than a 911’

The first Boxster wasn’t universally praised, but continual honing has made it a great modern-classic bargain

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HE ORIGINAL BOXSTER’S odd headlight design and relatively tepid 2.5-litre flat-six powerplant didn’t go down particularly well when the car was first launched. In true Porsche tradition, however, incremental updates addressed those issues, and the 986 stayed at the top of its class until the 987 arrived in 2004.

The first, 201bhp engine was not exactly slow, but the capable chassis could handle a lot more power. So, in 1999 it was replaced by a 217bhp 2.7 motor, while a 250bhp 3.2 S was introduced to head up the range and silence any remaining critics.

Part of the reason the Boxster helped save Porsche from financial ruin was that it shared a number of key components

with the soon-to-be-released 996 911. This cut production costs because both cars were largely the same up to the A-pillar.

They also shared the new M96 watercooled powerplant architecture. Thanks to the Boxster’s mid-engined layout, it was in fact even more composed around fast bends than a contemporary 911.

Sales picked up as the years went by, and prices for most 986s are attractively low these days. Despite some issues on earlier cars, the majority have proven to be reliable and largely trouble free. That said, these models are now more than two decades old, so it’s essential to be armed with some knowledge of what to look out for. Otherwise, your mid-engined Porsche dreams could turn into a nightmare.

MAGIC CAR PICS

ENGINE

Interior layout and design were similar to the 996’s. Most quality issues were gradually improved

192 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

Most internet searches for the flat-six models will highlight an apparent glut of IMS (intermediate shaft) bearing and RMS (rear main seal) failures. The truth is, while affected cars can suffer expensive engine problems, the issue is not quite so prevalent. There are also several preventative measures that can be carried out to give you extra peace of mind.

The RMSs tend to leak oil on most cars, but unless lubricant is pouring out of the seal it can be replaced with the next clutch change, because the gearbox needs to be removed for the job. The IMS bearing was a weak point on early cars, and can lead to engine failure. Its design was upgraded several times, so the issue is far

less frequent on later models. Specialists also offer upgraded bearings, so check if this has been done on your potential purchase. Again, the work is worth carrying out when the clutch is changed.

Cylinder bores were also known to crack. However, this tended to happen below 50,000 miles, and if the car’s lasted 20-odd years it is unlikely to happen now.

Still, do check the service history; if you suspect anything, get a specialist to carry out a borescope inspection. High engine temperatures are a warning, as is a creamy oil/water mixture under the oil cap.

The 2.5, 2.7 and 3.2-litre flat-sixes are strong. All require a service every 12,000 miles or annually, so watch out for lowmileage cars that have not had regular oil

changes. Missed intervals can lead to worn chain guides on the VarioCam timing-chain tensioner – an issue that is more prevalent on pre-2002 models.

Lumpy idling or hesitation while accelerating could indicate a cracked HT lead or a mass airflow sensor that needs replacing. Neither is overly expensive.

GEARBOX The base models had five-speed manuals, while S variants had six-ratio units. A fivespeed Tiptronic auto was also available, but these rather miss the point. All are reliable, although specialists recommend that the fluids are changed more frequently than the long intervals suggested by Porsche. A stiff clutch, tough

changes between first and second, or untoward noises from the rear when engaging gear may indicate that the transmission needs inspecting.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES New lower suspension arms and rose joints on the rear trailing arms are needed every 40,000 miles. Creaks when turning or going over bumps may indicate worn or cracked springs; uneven tyre wear should also be explored. The latter may be a simple case of the tracking needing adjustment, but it can also indicate worn shocks or damaged parts. Aftermarket wheels can exacerbate these issues, so it’s best to stick to standard-fitment alloys.

When it comes to stopping, the pads CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 193

PORSCHE BOXSTER 986 MODEL HISTORY 1996: 986 Boxster launched with mid-mounted 201bhp 2.5-litre sixcylinder engine. Five-speed manual or Tiptronic gearboxes offered 1999: 217bhp 2.7 becomes base engine.

250bhp 3.2 Boxster S introduced with uprated brakes and six-speed gearbox 2001: PSM anti-skid system introduced and discs (larger up front on the S) are more than capable. OEM replacements aren’t cheap, so look out for warped discs or worn pads. Discs also tend to corrode if left standing for long periods.

BODYWORK Rust is not particularly common, but do check around the arches and under the car. Blocked drainage channels can cause water to pool behind the seats, which will rot the rear arches or damage the ECU. The radiators for engine and air-con sit low behind the bumper, and accumulate road debris. If they are in good condition, it’s a potential sign that the current owner carries out preventative maintenance. If not, they may have corroded.

The early models’ plastic rear window would haze and crack. Glass items can be bought, and facelifted cars have these as standard. The roof mechanism requires periodic lubrication, and should be raised to ensure there is no shrinkage or tears.

INTERIOR Very similar to the 996’s, the cabin layout and design suffer from most of the same issues. The build quality did improve, but switches and door bins can feel flimsy.

Check that the fabric roof closes snugly around the frameless windows, and that the bolsters, pedals and steering wheel exhibit the wear expected for the mileage.

Make sure that the sat-nav (if fitted) still operates properly. Any aftermarket

194 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

set-up may look out of place, but it will most likely be an improvement. Porsche also offers a modern replacement.

WHICH BOXSTER 986 TO BUY The Boxster offers an immersive drive without feeling like it’s 20-plus years old.

While early cars can be had for low sums, we suggest spending extra and focusing on the post-facelift models. Don’t get too caught up on the mileage; as long as servicing intervals have been adhered to, rarely-used cars tend to have more issues than ones that see regular use.

If low cost is a priority, a 2.7-litre car is a fine option, especially from post-2002/3.

These had a bit more power and benefited from several incremental improvements.

The 3.2 S gets a big performance boost, and most can be found for a pittance over their less powerful stablemates; a postfacelift manual would be our choice. The ultra-rare 550 Spyder is the surest bet if you’re looking for a collectible 986. Any decent Boxster is a joy to drive, though, and virtually unmatched at current prices.

Adrian Crawford at Williams Crawford kindly supplied the technical information contained in this guide. The West Country specialist has been dealing with Porsches for 30 years, and buys, sells, services, repairs and restores all models. It’s one of our recommended Porsche specialists.

Fair: £4400 Good: £8100 Excellent: £10,500 Concours: £15,200 (2003 2.7)

2002: Facelift carried out, interior gets new steering wheel and glovebox, as well as glass rear window. Front indicators now clear units, and new wheel and body-colour options made available 2003: Power increased to 225bhp for 2.7 cars, while S gets bumped up to 258bhp 2004: Special-edition 550 Spyder released. All 1953 are painted GT Silver Metallic and fitted with MO30 sports suspension and sport exhaust. Power is up to 266bhp. Last Boxster rolls off production line, with more than 160,000 examples produced overall

SPECIFICATIONS 1996 M96 2.5-litre flat-six Power: 201bhp Top speed: 149mph 0-60mph: 6.7 seconds Economy: 31.7mpg 1999 M96 2.7-litre flat-six Power: 217bhp (225bhp post-2002) Top speed: 155mph 0-60mph: 6.5 seconds Economy: 32mpg (est.)

1999 M96 3.2-litre flat-six Power: 250bhp (258bhp post-2002) Top speed: 162mph 0-60mph: 5.6 seconds Economy: 30mpg (est.)

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All classic and collector cars considered including modern classics, vintage and historic cars

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Finance considered for all marques of prestige cars, supercars and hypercars

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Get in touch We look forward to discussing how we can best support you.

Drop us a line on specialistcars@propelfinance.co.uk or contact our Specialist Cars expert directly:

Finance is subject to status. Terms and Conditions Apply. Propel acts as a lender or a credit broker for business customers only. Propel Finance Group includes Propel Finance PLC and Propel Finance No.1 Limited. Propel Finance Plc is registered in Wales, Company no 04015132. Propel Finance No. 1 Limited is registered in Wales, Company no. 10003271. Registered offices are at Unit 5, Langstone Business Village, Langstone Park, Newport, NP18 2LH, vat no. 252089996. Propel Finance Plc and Propel Finance No. 1 Limited are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority.

Omar Faroqui 07458 092359 ofaroqui@propelfinance.co.uk

BUYING GUIDE

1970-1996

Range Rover More than 50 years after its launch, Land Rover’s revolutionary luxury 4x4 is more desirable than ever

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gearboxes. As the model matured, the utilitarian interior acquired an air of luxury. The car’s popularity grew as the opulence of wood, leather and electrical convenience crept in. By the 1980s, it could be had with two extra doors, thickpile carpets and an auto gearbox. As the decade rolled on, it settled into its new luxury identity, but lost none of its offroad ability or practicality.

Many incremental changes were made to the mechanical components, too. The car originally had Rover’s 3.5-litre V8, detuned to 135bhp. The displacement was gradually increased, to 3.9 litres in 1989 and 4.2 in 1992. A switch to fuel injection in 1986 improved the efficiency and power output of the earlier, carbed models.

The petrol V8s were the most popular, but turbodiesels were also offered from 1986-on. The first were advanced Italian VM inline-fours, available in 2.4 and then

LAND ROVER

HE RANGE ROVER WAS released in 1970, having spent several years testing in North Africa as the Velar prototype.

In 1971, the car quickly demonstrated its off-road capabilities with an intrepid expedition from Anchorage in Alaska to Tierra del Fuego in Argentina.

Land Rover had no idea that the model would revolutionise the luxury sector.

That’s mostly because it managed to do so totally by accident. The fact that the maker sent the car on the US expedition is evidence enough that the main objective was never solely prestige.

The first Range Rovers were excellent off-roaders, but still a world apart from the luxury limousines we’re familiar with now; the dashes were plastic, the trim vinyl and the floor rubber lined so the cabin could be hosed out. There were also manual seats, windows, switchgear and

Some replacement interior parts are available, but luxury kit for later cars can be hard to fix

196 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

2.5-litre displacements. The VM engines were replaced by Land Rover’s own fourcylinder 2.5-litre TDi from 1992-on.

Soon the classic Range Rover went from providing marginally more comfortable transport for wealthy farmers to becoming the limo equivalent of a Swiss Army knife.

It could go anywhere and do anything, never looking out of place or ostentatious.

As a result, there were precious few rivals to its market dominance.

Fifty-odd years later it still reigns supreme, inspiring cars that would have been unthinkable even ten years ago; even Ferrari has climbed aboard the luxury SUV bandwagon. As a result of the classic Range Rover’s significance, prices have risen ten-fold over the past decade.

‘As the car matured, the utilitarian cabin acquired an air of luxury; wood, leather and electrical convenience crept in’

ENGINE The petrol V8 is the most popular engine by far. It is strong, if more than a little thirsty, and should willingly rack up the miles if properly maintained. The official recommendation for an oil and filter change is 6000 miles. However, when we spoke to respected specialist Famous Four, its suggestion was 3000 miles – half what Land Rover advised. Regular oil changes prevent wear to the camshaft and help to prevent top-end sludging. A tappety-sounding engine is a sign that the motor will soon require investment to remedy worn components.

An overheating engine may destroy the head gaskets, so do check the cooling system’s health. Additionally, incorrect

anti-freeze levels corrode the cylinder heads and block. If the engine is not running smoothly, the injectors or carburettors are probably not working optimally. LPG conversions are found on some cars; if you’re considering such a purchase Famous Four recommends you check the work’s been done professionally.

The VM diesels are slow but relatively durable. A common issue is blown head gaskets, of which there are four because of the engine’s unusual modular design. More seriously, this can lead to cracked heads, which can be cost prohibitive to repair.

Later Land Rover TDis are a better option and more reliable. The main thing to look for here is that the timing belt has been replaced. This must be done every 60,000

miles, otherwise major damage can be caused. Having said that, the 200 TDi is more reliable than the later 300 TDi. The latter can be more prone to overheating, which can ruin the engine or head.

Diesel oil and filter changes must be carried out every 6000 miles. Failure to do so can hasten wear of turbo bearings.

Excessive exhaust smoke and a patchy service history are other indicators that a diesel is perhaps in a poor state of repair.

GEARBOX Both the LT95 four- and LT77 five-speed manuals should be checked for crunching synchromesh and an awkward gearshift.

The LT95 is also known for noticeable noise, so don’t be alarmed if this is

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 197

present. However, if one gear is distinctly noisier than others, it’s a clue that a rebuild is on the horizon.

The three-speed Torqueflite and fourspeed ZF autos are robust but should be checked for jerky shifts. Oil leaks are also common, and to some extent expected.

Do inspect the health of the four-wheeldrive system; clunks from underneath are often caused by worn propshaft joints.

Also check that the low-range ’box works properly; this can be difficult to engage if it hasn’t been used for a long time.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Two different suspension configurations were offered in the original Range Rover.

Most models have the original long-travel coil and damper set-up. The last top-spec cars got more complicated air suspension that became a staple of later machines.

For wayward and wallowy handling, replacing coils and dampers could cost £150 per corner. Air suspension is more complex and difficult to diagnose, and replacement parts can be prohibitively expensive if there are issues.

Some rubber bushes may have perished due to age, which can compromise the efficiency of the suspension. Polyurethane replacements will sort this out. Rust can make an unwelcome appearance around the damper-mounting points, too.

Another common issue is hydraulic oil 198 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

leaking from the steering box. Even after fitting replacement seals, the problem can reappear. Famous Four advises replacing the entire steering box instead. In the best-case scenario, vague steering could simply need readjusting. It could also be caused by worn track-rod ends, rear A-frame, ball-joints or suspension bushes.

There is nothing unconventional about a Range Rover’s brakes; simply check pad thickness and disc wear. ABS-equipped cars from the 1990s can lead to high bills if the warning light is on. Bear this in mind, because parts can be hard to find.

Finally, the handbrake engages on the transfer box’s rear output shaft. As such, the handbrake shouldn’t be used when the car is moving, because this causes halfshaft, propshaft and brake-shoe damage.

BODYWORK Many of the outer panels are aluminium, but this unfortunately doesn’t dismiss the inevitability of rust. These can hide severe rot on the steel body they are affixed to, so due diligence must be done to identify corrosion before buying. Be very careful.

Rust affects all years of first-generation Range Rovers, and unless they were sold in hot countries almost all cars have some corrosion by now. This occurs on front inner and outer wings, bulkhead, sills, arches, rear inner floor and wings, doors and the rear body crossmember. The last of

‘Range Rover is undeniably a bona fide classic that has come to define a whole new genre of the luxury market’ these is the only rust-prone part of the ladder chassis. It is, however, easy to replace and not normally too much of an issue.

The upper and lower tailgate and bonnet are the few panels made from steel rather than aluminium, which again means rust.

Luckily the aftermarket is now fabricating replacement parts, and these are available from Famous Four. JLR Classic has also started producing OEM items.

On post-1985 cars, the body was welded rather than bolted together, forming a steel semi-monocoque. This means it is also more difficult to repair if rust is present.

Another thing to look for is the electrolysis of aluminium panels. This form of corrosion can be diagnosed by lifting the bonnet and looking at the bolts fastened to the front outer and inner wings. These steel items can eat away at the aluminium and cause a ‘weeping’ effect around the

BUYING GUIDE

RANGE ROVER MODEL HISTORY 1970: Range Rover three-door arrives.

Rover 3.5 V8 and four-speed manual ’box 1978: Manual gearbox gets overdrive 1979: Power steering standardised.

Tinted glass fitted. Rear lights revised and bumpers painted 1980: Monteverdi four-door conversions 1981: Land Rover releases own four-door 1982: Three-speed auto ’box optionable 1983: Manual gearbox now five-speeder

Four-door models don’t demand two-door money, but are still desirable

bolts. Finally, look for evidence of historic repairs, typified by additional welding.

INTERIOR Early cars had a simple cabin, but their age means many require a retrim. Partly due to ascending values, the aftermarket and JLR have started producing replacement parts, particularly for two-doors. Parts for fourdoors are harder to source. Some models have a sagging headlining, which looks unappealing and costs around £300 to fix.

Four-doors had more kit such as ABS, cruise control and electric seats. Such luxuries are nice to have but open up their own supply and cost issues. As a rule, the later the car and the more tech it has onboard, the more expensive it is to fix. If any of these electrical conveniences are fitted, make sure they all work as intended.

Poorly done electrical modifications can cause yet more gremlins. If a potential purchase has spotlights, extra gauges and towbars, the wiring has likely been spliced.

To save future headaches and expense, check this has been done professionally.

WHICH RANGE ROVER TO BUY Today the original Range Rover is an appreciating classic, so many are driven sparingly and seldom off-road. How any example was used earlier in its life will impact its desirability. Off-roading is hard

on the mechanical components and will be detrimental to the overall value, so it’s essential to search for evidence of this – even if the car looks clean from the outside.

Early two-doors are very desirable and command big prices. Later four-doors with a high spec also attract healthy values if they’re in good condition with low mileages. Enthusiasts cite the 3.9-litre V8 as the best compromise between durability and performance. Both manual and auto variations of the gearbox are popular and largely down to personal preference. Having said that, the ZF fourspeed auto is far better than the earlier three-speed Torqueflite. Whichever Range Rover you go for, it is undeniably a bona fide classic that has come to define a whole new genre of the luxury car market.

The information for this guide was provided by world-renowned Land Rover specialist, Famous Four. It has been catering to the requirements of Land Rover enthusiasts since 1988 by providing parts, servicing, restoration and sales.

It also offers an acclaimed range of aftermarket upgrades including handling packs and replacement parts for Land Rover models. For more information on what services Famous Four provides, please visit www.famousfour.co.uk.

Fair: £4100 Good: £10,700 Excellent: £24,600 Concours: £38,400 (’83 4-door)

1985: Fuel injection fitted to top Vogue.

Automatic gearbox now has four speeds 1986: 2.4-litre VM turbodiesel released.

Carbs phased out, along with two-door body (unless specifically ordered) 1989: Diesel becomes 2.5 litres.

Petrol V8 increases from 3.5 to 3.9 litres 1992: Long-wheelbase LSE released.

4.2 V8 available in Vogue SE. Land Rover 200 TDi supersedes Italian VM diesel 1994: 300 TDi replaces 200 TDi. Twodoors end production. New dashboard.

Second-gen Range Rover launched 1996: Final classic Range Rover made after 26 years and 317,615 cars

SPECIFICATIONS 3.5-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

165bhp 106mph (est.)

12.0 seconds 20mpg

4.2-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

200bhp 112mph (est.)

11.0 seconds 18mpg

TDi 300 2.5-litre four-cylinder turbodiesel Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

111bhp 93mph (est.)

18.3 seconds 32mpg

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 199

BUYING GUIDE

1965-1980

Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley T-series Nearly 60 years ago the Silver Shadow helped re-establish Rolls-Royce at the forefront of modern luxury car design. Today, the right example can transport you back to those heady days

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come soon enough. This new luxury saloon along with its mechanically identical Bentley T twin were a step into the brave new world of unitary body construction, four-wheel disc brakes and hydropneumatic suspension. After all, Rolls-Royce’s hard-earned reputation was based not only on luxury, but on technical superiority, too. At the car’s launch, the Silver Shadow was up there with the best of them.

A 172bhp (estimated) 6.2-litre V8 was

MAGIC CAR PICS

URING THE FIRST HALF of the 20th century, RollsRoyce worked extremely hard to develop a reputation for building the ‘best cars in the world’ – a title bestowed on the Silver Ghost 40/50

by Autocar way back in 1907.

However, by the 1960s the world had moved on, and the ageing Silver Cloud was in dire need of a replacement. When the Silver Shadow was revealed as its successor back in 1965, it couldn’t have

With its luxury materials and wooden accents, Silver Shadow’s premium cabin still has impact

200 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

used until 1969, when it was replaced with a 189bhp 6.75 powerplant. The standard gearbox for UK cars was a fourspeed GM-sourced auto, but after 1969 a three-speeder was standardised for all markets. A two-door coupé was made available in 1966, with a convertible model offered the following year.

The fancy hydropneumatic suspension set-up was licensed from Citroën, and gave the Silver Shadow its famously smooth ride quality. From 1969-on, RollsRoyce reverted back to a conventional front-suspension set-up, deeming that this made little difference to the way the model performed. The two-door Silver Shadows, including the convertibles, were rebranded as the Corniche.

A raft of changes were carried out in 1977, with an updated steering rack and front suspension being two of the more notable improvements. The car was renamed the Silver Shadow II to further differentiate it from earlier variants.

Larger, rubber-tipped bumpers are the quickest way to differentiate the pre- and post-1977 models. Long-wheelbase cars were now called the Silver Wraith, and came fitted with vinyl roofs.

Its Bentley T cousin was essentially a Silver Shadow with a different badge and slightly modified bonnet and radiator

‘The hydropneumatic suspension set-up licensed from Citroën gave the Silver Shadow its famously smooth ride quality’

design. Available in the same bodystyles as the Silver Shadow, the vast majority of Bentley Ts were four-door saloons.

Updates to the T mirrored those of the Silver Shadow, and it also got a name change to T2 in 1977. While production for all four-door variants ended in 1980, the two-door Corniche soldiered on with incremental updates for a scarcely believable 15 more years.

The long production run saw more than 30,000 Silver Shadows produced between 1965 and 1980. Many fell into disrepair as values dropped; good ones are now becoming harder to find, and have price tags to match their rarity.

GEARBOX The majority of Silver Shadows were fitted with a three-speed General Motors Turbo-Hydramatic 400 auto gearbox, except for UK cars built between 19651969. These earlier models featured a four-speed GM unit that was carried over from the Silver Cloud. Both transmissions are long lasting, but the three-speed variant is the superior unit.

Delayed or jerky shifts can indicate that an overhaul is on the cards, with regular fluid changes highly recommended to extend the time between repairs. Parts are still available from specialists or breaker’s yards if you cannot source them new.

ENGINE

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

Both of the 6.2- and 6.75-litre V8 powerplants can last for ages by sticking to the recommended oil and coolant changes, but there are a few common issues. Dean Jaggard, director at RollsRoyce and Bentley specialist Jaggard & Moore, says oil leaks are common on these motors, as are worn piston liners.

Hydraulic tappets can get sticky, too. An overhaul can be pricey, so have the car thoroughly checked by a specialist who knows what to look for.

Corroded blocks and warped cylinder heads can occur if the radiator isn’t regularly flushed. The exhaust system will eventually rot, but the manifolds tend to crack way before then, so inspect both cylinder banks for signs of damage.

The advanced hydropneumatic set-up gives that legendary smooth ride, but specialist attention is needed to keep it operating properly. Hydraulic leaks can occur, leading to sagging. A complete overhaul is recommended every 100,000 miles, with new fluid being required every four years. Cars built from 1969-on reverted to less fussy, more conventional front suspension; this sharpened up the handling but cannot easily be retrofitted to older models.

Worn dampers and bushes are common, and while every Silver Shadow feels a bit vague and wallowy from behind the wheel, it should not lean excessively in corners or rock when stopping. The move to rack-and-pinion steering from 1977-on

202 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘The stately, luxurious and effortlessly cool Silver Shadow still has the ability to waft you along in the utmost comfort’ made a big difference to the way the car drove, but once again converting to the newer set-up is an expensive undertaking.

In a first for Rolls-Royce, disc brakes were standard at all four corners. Aside from the usual corroded discs and seized calipers found on infrequently driven cars, the system should not be very troublesome, although accessing the rear units requires specialised tools.

BODYWORK A fancy new paint-job may help sell a car quickly, but it can also hide all manner of bodywork-related evils. Chief among these is rust; the Silver Shadow can corrode just about anywhere aside from the alloy bonnet, doors and boot panels – and even here it is important to check for corrosion on the sections that join with steel hinges. Replacement panels are

BUYING GUIDE

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER SHADOW MODEL HISTORY 1965: Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley T revealed. Featuring a 6.2-litre V8 and either three- or four-speed (UK markets) automatic transmission 1966: Marque introduces two-door saloon bodystyle 1967: Convertible model announced Silver Shadow is elegant and refined, but it can be expensive to maintain and run

still available from specialists, but they can be costly. Of greater concern is if the car’s subframe or chassis have started to rust. These are labour intensive to rectify, and the repair costs can soon outstrip the vehicle’s value.

INTERIOR Step into a Silver Shadow, and it is immediately apparent where much of the development budget was spent. The soft leather seats and wooden trim on the dashboard and doors still look the business, unless of course they have been neglected. Retrims are pricey but worth doing to maintain the car’s value.

Electrics can play up, so check that everything is working as it should. The sheer number of motors and relays, as well as wiring running through the cabin, can lead to problems. Dean says the electric windows and central locking should be tested before purchasing, as they tend to be problematic.

WHICH ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER SHADOW TO BUY The Silver Shadow ownership experience is essentially a story of two parts.

Prodigiously thirsty, prone to regular breakdowns and often rustier than a boat anchor, this classic can fast track you to the poor house like few other motoring icons can.

The flip side is that the stately, luxurious and effortlessly cool Silver Shadow still

has the ability to waft you along in the utmost comfort. The path you take depends entirely on whether you rush into a suspiciously cheap deal or bide your time and buy the right car. Everyone from princes to plumbers has had a chance to own a Silver Shadow by now, so a thorough inspection is always recommended to ascertain how well the model has been maintained.

Silver Shadow IIs are considered by many to be the most resolved of all the variants, and as a consequence these are your best choice if you intend to use your car regularly. Values are higher, too, but the deciding factor in any purchase should be less about model year and more about the condition and history of the individual example you are considering.

Meanwhile, Bentley Ts are rarer and cost a little more, but values for all derivatives have risen sharply in recent years – even for less-than-pristine examples, of which there are plenty.

The earliest cars equipped with allround hydropneumatic suspension and four-speed transmissions can be found for very tempting figures, but most specialists recommend going for the updated three-speed models (built from 1969-on). Find the right car, and both the Silver Shadow and its Bentley T doppelgänger remain sublime classics that still have that elusive classic car feel-good factor every time you slide behind the elegant wheel.

1969: 6.75-litre engine introduced; all variants now use GM three-speed automatic gearbox. Long-wheelbase variant offered in US 1970: Long-wheelbase variant becomes available in UK 1977: Silver Shadow II and Bentley T2 announced. Changes include new rack-and-pinion steering, updated front suspension and fresh bumper design.

Long-wheelbase model renamed as Silver Wraith II 1979: 75 Silver Shadow II special editions built to commemorate Rolls-Royce’s 75th anniversary. Fitted with unique interior trim and finished in pewter/silver paintwork 1980: Final Silver Shadow II and Bentley T2 roll off production line. Coupé and convertible models continue to be produced with various updates until 1982 and 1996 respectively

SPECIFICATIONS 6.2-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

172bhp (est.)

111mph 12 seconds 20mpg

6.75-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

189bhp (est.)

119mph 11 seconds 18mpg

Fair: £6600 Good: £10,200 Excellent: £14,700 Concours: £25,200 (Shadow II) CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 203

BUYING GUIDE

1992-2001

Subaru Impreza Turbo Impreza was a serious all-terrain performance car of its time – and on the right roads, it still takes some beating

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upgrades included better brakes, a wheelsize increase from 15 to 16 inches and a mild power upgrade to 215bhp. Few cars stayed standard for long, and Subaru was keen to leverage its rallying successes with UK-specific special editions, too.

The WRC driver’s titles earned by Colin McRae in 1995 and Richard Burns four years later secured the Impreza’s legendary status for decades to come.

Arguably the most desirable of them all was the sublime two-door 22B; just 400 were made, fewer than 20 being offered to the UK. Developed by Subaru, it was thoroughly reworked complete with a new bodykit, 280bhp 2.2-litre engine and beefed-up clutch, suspension and brakes. Prices for these cars have long

SUBARU, MAGIC CAR PICS

ERE YOU TO SAMPLE a Subaru Impreza at its 1992 launch, you’d have been hard pressed to imagine that it could be turned into one of the most capable AWD performance saloons around. Yet the 2000 Turbo (or WRX as the rest of the world called it) was exactly that; equipped with a 208bhp 2.0-litre flat-four turbo, it was indecently quick off the line and over surfaces that would have most traditional sports cars skidding off into the undergrowth.

The bland interior came in for some criticism, and it remained pretty basic throughout production. An 1997 update improved matters, but the 2000 Turbo was always more about go than show. Other

Basic interior’s hard plastics and no-frills approach mean that most cars have weathered well

204 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Indecently quick off the line and over surfaces that would have most traditional sports cars skidding off into the undergrowth’

been sky high, but there are also some more attainable, UK-specific models, too, such as the Prodrive-developed P1. Based on the two-door shell, power was upped to 276bhp, the suspension was tweaked and ABS was added to the package. A run of 1000 were all finished in Sonic Blue.

There were a slew of limited editions as well. Most offered unique trim and colour options, but a few – particularly the Series McRae and Richard Burns RB5 – had worthwhile mechanical improvements (some optional), and there were also a number of JDM-market grey imports.

Then, of course, there are a multitude of locally modified Imprezas with varying results, but the result is that a standard Impreza has become the rarest of all.

ENGINE The flat-four motor is as tough as it gets, but many have been driven hard, while enthusiastic modifications and extreme boost settings can severely shorten the lifespan of components. That said, there are specialists that offer well proven updates for these cars, so we’d stick to the milder mods from a reputable source.

Cambelts have a 45,000-mile replacement interval, while oil changes are suggested every 7500 to 10,000 miles. If you drive your car hard or it has been modified, that oil-change interval should be halved.

Mass Airflow Sensors (MAF) can fail, leading to poor running; this is more common on later models. Oil leaks can develop around the sump and cam covers

(the latter allow oil to drip onto the exhaust, causing smoke from the engine bay). If the motor makes a knocking sound at low revs or emits excessive blue smoke out the tailpipes, some big bills may well be around the corner.

GEARBOX The ’box and clutch are well up to dealing with the standard car’s output, but overly boosted examples can stress these parts, especially the clutch, which has to take the strain of the extra torque. Synchros can also break on second and third gears on modded cars. The diffs can develop a whine when regularly driven hard, so listen out for any unsavoury noises from the back when cruising at a steady speed.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Few cars remain on their standard suspension set-up these days, but slightly stiffer springs and uprated shocks can sharpen up the handling, so don’t be put off if the car is not exactly as the factory specified. Check for the usual issues such as leaking shocks, worn bushes and odd wear patterns on the tyres.

The standard-fit brakes are just about OK for fast road use, but upgraded discs and pads are common fitments. Check for scored or warped discs; a judder through the steering wheel or pedals under braking can signify worn front or rear brakes respectively. Meanwhile, the power-steering pumps can develop issues on early examples. If the steering feels out CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 205

‘If you’re looking for something to drive rather than invest in, a lightly modified standard 2000 Turbo is your best bet’ of sorts, look at the rack and fluid levels.

Probably best to check them regardless...

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Check for panel gaps and shoddy paint, as both are signs of poorly repaired crash damage. Rust can manifest itself at the front, under the radiator and subframe and at the bottoms of the wings.

Have a good poke around the rear arches. This is the most likely place for corrosion on an Impreza. If there are bubbles of rust, the likelihood is that the inner arches will be rotting as well. Worse, though, the rear suspension turrets will probably also have started rusting, and these are a lot of work to repair. Reach up under the arches to feel around the turrets, and also try to look from inside the boot, if you’re able to remove the trim.

Sills can also rust under their plastic covers. If the ends look flaky, it’s likely there’s rot elsewhere. Also check the rear subframe, which can corrode badly. If there’s a smell of fuel around the car, the filler pipe under the rear arch has rotted through. Replacements are available. Some repair panels are available; front wings are cheap and good quality, sills and arch repair panels are available but relatively expensive. To replace sills and rear arches, cutting and welding will be required.

The Impreza may have been criticised for its basic interior, but the hard plastics and no-frills approach mean that most cars have weathered the years well. Seat 206 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

bolsters can wear out and some of the shiny plastics get a bit shinier, but there should be few issues here.

WHICH SUBARU IMPREZA TURBO TO BUY Values for the first-generation Impreza 2000 Turbo have slowly been on the rise over the past few years. Base models can still be found for decent sums but few have been left unmodified, so the quality of what is out there varies wildly.

Avoid abused or overly modified cars, as they can end up costing you more than you paid for them. Apart from the official UK models, there are plenty of grey-import JDM cars on offer, too. Many have unique options and features that can make them highly desirable (plenty of special editions, like the STi RA, were built solely for the Japanese market), but beware that getting a verifiable history of an imported car before it arrived in the UK can be tricky.

Special editions, especially ones that had more than simply unique liveries and trim, can often command serious prices.

The UK-specific P1 is always in demand, as are the 200 Series McRae cars, while the ultra-rare 22B is the most collectable of the lot. If you’re looking for something to drive rather than invest in, a lightly modified standard 2000 Turbo is your best bet. It still offers a lot of performance, and is as at home on the weekly school run as it is blasting down your favourite stretch of road at the weekends.

SUBARU IMPREZA TURBO MODEL HISTORY 1992: Subaru Impreza WRX goes on sale; UK cars called 2000 Turbo 1996: Series McRae special edition with Mica Blue paintwork and gold wheels goes on sale. 200 units sold 1997: Interior gets upgraded with leather trim on all 2000 Turbo models.

Catalunya limited edition with black exterior paint and gold wheels arrives 1998: Special-edition 22B coupé on sale. Power up to 280bhp, with numerous rally-inspired mechanical and visual updates. 400 sold globally, with approximately 15 officially sold in UK 2000: Prodrive releases P1 with Sonic Blue paint (as with 22B) and suspension upgrades 2001: New Impreza introduced

SPECIFICATIONS 2.0-litre flat-four (2.2-litre for 22B) Power: 208-280bhp Top speed: 137-155mph-plus 0-60mph: 4.5-5.8 seconds Economy: 27mpg

Fair: £2850 Good: £4000 Excellent: £6200 Concours: £7500 (1997 UK Turbo)

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BUYING GUIDE

1961-1976

Triumph TR4, TR5 and TR6 Light weight, racy engines and Italian styling ensure the definitive traditional British sports car experience

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cured the bounciness of the original leafspring, live-axle rear suspension with a semi-trailing arm and coil-spring set-up.

The TR4 was a huge success, with 71,000 built during its six-year production span – most of which were sold to the US market. In 1967, it was phased out for the TR5. On the face of it the latter looked almost identical to its predecessor, but underneath considerable improvements had been made to the mechanicals.

Instead of the Standard inline-four, the TR5 got a 2.5-litre fuel-injected inlinesix. Triumph claimed 150bhp with the European-spec mechanical fuel injection; in reality, it was closer to around 125bhp.

American-market TR5s were known as TR250s, and were significantly slower

MAGIC CAR PICS

HE TRIUMPH TR SERIES is a definitive example of the traditional British sports car formula. These models were light in weight, rear-wheel drive and handsomely styled. The launch of the TR4 in 1961 represented the crystallisation of this recipe; its Michelotti-designed body created a more practical and purposefullooking car than the TR3 it replaced.

While its mechanical underpinnings remained similar to its predecessor’s, the torquey, tractor-derived Standard engine was bored out to 2138cc from the previous 1991cc, to yield a respectable 103bhp. The only other significant change was a revised rear suspension set-up that came later on, in 1965. These cars, designated TR4A,

Cabins are basic and easy to refurbish, especially as all parts are available new. This is the TR4

208 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘TR4’s Michelotti body created a more practical and purposefullooking car than TR3 it replaced’

thanks to the fitment of twin ZenithStromberg carburettors for fuel-economy purposes. They put out only 104bhp.

The TR5 was produced for just over a year before being replaced by the TR6 in 1969; as a result, it’s rare and desirable. As with previous cars, the TR6 shared many of its mechanical parts with the TR5.

For the TR6, the big change was the new angular, masculine-feeling Karmann bodywork. Triumph also tweaked the independent suspension from the TR5, further honing its handling characteristics.

The incremental improvements clearly worked, because the TR6 became the best-selling TR-series car ever, and was fantastic to drive – particularly the earlier, more muscular models. Later cars had

their power pared back to 125bhp, thanks to tougher emissions regulations.

The TR6 was produced until 1976, before being replaced by the wedgy and controversial TR7.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX The TR4 commonly leaks oil from both the four-cylinder engine and the gearbox.

Head-gasket problems are also common, so check for milky oil residue underneath the filler cap. Worn motors will have bad compression readings; if possible, get a workshop test done prior to purchase.

As for the six-cylinder engine found in the TR5 and TR6, it is a strong unit. Look for regular servicing and maintenanceover-mileage readings. Crankshaft thrust

washers are one of the few weak points, and getting a TR mechanic to give the engine a once-over will save you a lot of headaches in the future.

The Lucas Mk2 injection system is a simpler mechanical unit, but it still requires an expert’s knowledge to set up correctly. The original pumps also tended to overheat, and modern replacements are far more reliable. General engine overheating was a common concern, and most cars would have had some type of aftermarket electric radiator fans fitted to combat this. Make sure the cooling system of any potential purchase is in top condition before signing on the dotted line.

Gearboxes are strong, but are at their limit in the six-cylinder TR6, having been

developed from the TR4. A worn ’box is quickly diagnosed via sloppy shifts or crunching synchros. Overdrive on early cars could cause problems, and driveshaft issues can announce themselves via clunking noises from the back.

Finally, listen out for a howling noise from the rear diff. This indicates wear and that the unit will need refurbishing.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES All models have relatively conventional suspension set-ups, so there isn’t too much to worry about other than wear.

On TR4s, a conversion to telescopic rear dampers and uprated springs is a worthwhile upgrade. The latter must be fitted without the aluminium spacer, to

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 209

avoid upsetting the car’s handling.

The front trunnions in all models need to be checked with a bar; broken ones will swivel freely and should be replaced.

Regular lubrication of these components also prevents additional suspension wear.

Trunnion condition is best determined by jacking up the car from underneath and making sure they swivel properly.

On cars fitted with wire wheels, check that the spokes are in good condition and none is missing. Handbrakes can need adjustment, and all cars have drum brakes at the rear and discs at the front, so check for seepage from the drums. Wheel bearings are another weak spot; listen for any chattering sounds when cornering.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR Until the TR7, all Triumph TR-series cars featured a separate body-on-chassis construction. Rust can occur almost anywhere, and is usually quite obvious if it’s present. Still have a good look for it, though, to avoid being complacent.

Check under the front carpets for corrosion, as well as the sills, windscreen and headlight surrounds, bootlid, chassismounting points and differential mounts in particular. Blocked drain holes can cause the door bottoms and wings to rot from the inside out.

Ensure that panel gaps are even and no poorly carried-out repairs have been performed. Recently painted examples could be hiding filler or rot, so be wary 210 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

and check that the car has a good history.

The interiors are basic and easy to refurbish, so worn trim shouldn’t be too concerning. All parts are available new from aftermarket suppliers. It’s the same with the electrical system; brittle wiring, faulty gauges and broken switchgear are all readily replaceable proprietary items.

Short-lived six-cylinder TR5 (above) is rarest and most soughtafter of the series, while TR6 remains the bargain of the line-up

WHICH TRIUMPH TR4, TR5 OR TR6 TO BUY Independent rear suspension makes later TR4As slightly more composed to drive than their earlier counterparts. However, the priority should be the condition of the car, the integrity of the chassis and bodyshell, and evidence of regular maintenance. This applies to all models.

The TR5s are the most sought after, because they’re rare and pair the attractive Michelotti body with that lovely straightsix. However, the mechanical similarity of the TR6 to its predecessor, allied with lower demand, make it something of a bargain. Earlier, more powerful TR6s are more desirable, but in reality the difference in performance between these and the later cars isn’t vastly different. Again, prioritise on finding a cherished example.

The information for this guide was provided by specialist TRGB. Classic Trader recommends it as a trusted source for TR restoration, servicing, parts and sales.

Fair: £17,200 Good: £29,500 Excellent: £39,000 Concours: £48,500 (TR5)

‘TR series is a definitive example of the traditional British sports car formula; lightweight, rear-wheel drive and handsome’

BUYING GUIDE

TRIUMPH TR4, TR5 AND TR6 MODEL HISTORY 1961: TR4 replaces outgoing TR3A. New features include synchromesh gearbox, rack-and-pinion steering, plus wider front and rear tracks. TR3A engine bored out to 2198cc and ‘Surrey Top’ targa roof made available 1965: TR4A arrives with independent rear suspension with semi-trailing arm and coil-spring set-up. US gets leaf-sprung, live-axle set-up only 1967: TR5 introduced with fuel-injected straight-six. US cars have twin carbs and are badged TR250 1968: Final TR5 produced 1969: TR6 effectively a rebodied TR5, released with 150bhp fuel-injected 2.5-litre straight-six; US cars have 104bhp twin-carburettor engine 1973: US engine increased to 106bhp; all other markets are detuned to 125bhp for emissions. Wire wheels phased out and new front spoiler fitted 1974: US cars get plastic ‘5mph’ bumpers 1975: Last mechanical fuel-injected car built 1976: Final TR6 with carburettor produced

SPECIFICATIONS TR4 2.1-litre inline-four Power: 104-150bhp Top speed: 102mph 0-60mph: 10.9 seconds Economy: 23mpg (est.)

TR5 2.5-litre inline-six Power: 150bhp Top speed: 120mph 0-60mph: 8.8 seconds Economy: 20mpg (est.)

From four cylinders and twin carbs of the TR4 (left) to the six cylinders and injection of the TR6

TR6 2.5-litre inline-six (injected) Power: 150bhp Top speed: 119mph 0-60mph: 8.2 seconds Economy: 24mpg (est.)

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 211

1991-2002

TVR Griffith The Griffith offered the blistering pace and exotic looks of more mainstream supercars, but added an extra dose of adrenaline into the mix for the uninitiated

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VR REMAINS IN THE process of trying to launch its new Griffith sports car, which was first announced in 2017.

Thanks to various delays, the launch is now pegged for 2022. Can’t wait any longer? The first-generation Griffith is more than happy to scratch your TVR itch.

Introduced in 1991, this model was an altogether less angular design than many of its predecessors. The name had been used before on the Griffith 200 and 400 from the 1960s, but aside from the lightweight chassis and stonking V8, and 212 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

engine’s capacity to 4.5 litres. However, the truly unhinged had to wait until the following year for the 340bhp 5.0 variant.

Its performance was now well into supercar territory, at a far more affordable price point. Even so, build quality and onthe-limit handling fell a little short of most rivals’. None of that mattered to TVR diehards, though, and the Griffith was a popular model in the range right up until production ended in 2002.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX the total absence of driver aids, this was a completely new design.

The first cars were offered with a Rover-sourced 4.0-litre V8, good for a claimed 240bhp. A low kerbweight meant the Griffith could complete the 0-60mph sprint in 4.7 seconds; enough to see off just about any German or Italian sports car of the time. In true TVR tradition, it was then offered with an even more powerful, 280bhp 4.3-litre engine from 1992 onwards.

A big-valve factory conversion could be added for another 30bhp, increasing the

The Rover V8 in its many forms has been around for decades. TVR made some bespoke modifications to bump up the power, but there are plenty of specialists around that know these engines inside out. Many owners claim that the power figures are a bit optimistic, yet the lofty torque and low weight mean even the 4.0 models are more than rapid enough.

Look for oil leaks around the gaskets; the rocker covers might just need retightening. Check the radiator and thermostat, too, as overheating is common and can lead to an engine rebuild

if unchecked. Some cars may have had aftermarket modifications such as remaps and high-lift cams; the standard units tend to wear out by 60,000 miles anyway.

If a specialist has carried out the work, this shouldn’t be an issue. Starter motors tend to have a short life thanks to the high engine-bay temperatures.

The earlier 4.0-litre cars came fitted with a Rover LT77 five-speed gearbox, but this was gradually phased out in favour of a Borg-Warner T5 unit. Most 5.0 models were so equipped; if reverse is down to the right, your car has the latter unit. Both are robust but benefit from regular fluid changes, and neither enjoys being rushed through the gears. Clutches can last from 40,000-60,000 miles.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES While the Griffith may require razorsharp reflexes to pilot at the limit, at lesser speeds it should feel planted and stable. If it doesn’t, the bushes and shocks might need attention. Rust can take hold of certain suspension components, so check the control arms and wishbones, too.

Fresh bushes and a decent set of tyres can make a big difference to the drive.

The brakes are decent. Later cars came with slightly larger discs – look out for warping or seized calipers on garaged examples. If you are brave enough to take yours to the track, upgraded stoppers are recommended. The LS diff was changed from a GKN to a Salisbury unit in 1994; both are reliable, but check for any leaks because repairs are costly.

BODYWORK AND INTERIOR You may be thinking that a glassfibre body means rust is not an issue on the Griffith. Well, yes and no – but mostly no.

Obviously the glassfibre components are not going to start rusting, but just about every chassis component can.

Most TVR specialists will immediately inspect the outriggers, lower chassis rails and section around the manifolds.

However, the entire chassis needs a thorough going over, because a lot of the corrosion takes place out of sight.

Later models became more resistant to rust, but by now every car will need to be

inspected. Any accident damage requires specialist attention, too, and the glassfibre body will start to craze if large chips and cracks are left unchecked.

While the Griffith’s exterior was certainly eye catching, the interior was even more so. The swoopy dash design still looks great, yet retrims can be costly thanks to those complex curves and swathes of leather. Leaks are not uncommon, so check for damp under the footwell carpets. The electrics are mostly reliable, but switches can pack up.

WHICH TVR GRIFFITH TO BUY You probably assume that the full-fat 5.0-litre variants are the obvious choice, but the excess of power makes them rather one dimensional. If you intend to simply embarrass supercars away from the lights, then this is the one for you. Otherwise, either of the less powerful models will be more than enough. The rare 500SE can command higher prices than the rest of the range, but values are generally correlated with condition and service history.

Detail modifications, slightly better chassis rustproofing and optional power steering make the later models marginally more desirable. Even so, don’t overlook an early car if it’s offered with a good service history. Mileages are generally low, but don’t worry too much about ‘leggy’ examples. The condition of the chassis is paramount here.

There is no doubt that a low-volume model such as the Griffith is not going to exhibit the same levels of fit, finish or reliability as a mainstream manufacturer’s offering. Nevertheless, some preventative maintenance and regular servicing can make for a very enjoyable ownership experience. Just like when it was new, the Griffith continues to offer a thrilling drive accompanied by a seductive soundtrack, for a fraction of what you would pay for a similarly quick Porsche or Ferrari.

The technical information in this guide was kindly supplied by Str8six, a recommended TVR specialist.

Fair: £8500 Good: £12,000 Excellent: £13,500 Concours: £15,750 (1992 4.0)

MAGIC CAR PICS

BUYING GUIDE

With its complex curves and swathes of hide, Griffith’s interior can be expensive to retrim

TVR GRIFFITH MODEL HISTORY 1990: TVR Griffith revealed at Birmingham Motor Show 1991: Griffith 400 production starts, initially with 240bhp 4.0-litre engine, five-speed manual transmission and glassfibre bodywork 1992: Griffith 430 goes on sale. Power now up to 280bhp, or over 300bhp for 430BV (big-valve conversion) 1993: Griffith 500 introduced, now with 5.0-litre Rover V8 and 340bhp.

Rover LT77 gearbox replaced with Borg-Warner T5 transmission 1994: GKN limited-slip differential phased out in favour of Salisbury unit 1995: Power steering introduced 2002: 100 units of limited-edition Griffith 500SE signal end of production, with approximately 2600 cars built in total

SPECIFICATIONS 4.0-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

240bhp 152mph 4.7 seconds 24mpg (est.)

5.0-litre V8 Power: Top speed: 0-60mph: Economy:

340bhp 169mph 4.1 seconds 20mpg (est.)

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 213

BUYING GUIDE

1938-2003

VW Beetle

The original people’s car is still for everyone; low maintenance and running costs make the desirable Bug a great way into classic ownership

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off the production line after the war.

The earliest cars featured the signature split-oval rear window and were powered by a 1.1-litre flat-four producing a heady 25bhp. For 1953, a one-piece oval window was introduced, and a bit later the engine was bored out to 1.2 litres, adding 11bhp.

These incremental updates punctuated the Beetle’s decades-long run, and helped keep it relevant against ever-more modern rivals.

Notable updates through the 1950s and into the early ’60s included a power bump to 40bhp, a four-speed manual ’box with synchro on all forward gears, mechanical fuel gauge and modern flashing indicators instead of semaphore signals. The second half of the swinging 1960s introduced 40bhp 1.3-litre and 44bhp 1.5 engines as well as updated body panels with larger window apertures. Six-volt electrical systems were replaced with 12V systems

MAGIC CAR PICS

NLIKE WITH A LOT OF classics, just about everyone has had some interaction with the original Volkswagen Beetle, thanks to 65 years of production during which more than 21 million cars were built. Despite the bodywork remaining very similar over the years, numerous updates and changes were carried out, and all Beetle aficionados have their favourites. For those who are new to the model, though, the later variants are generally the more usable.

But we are getting ahead of ourselves...

Ferdinand Porsche developed the Beetle in the 1930s as a people’s car. It had to be simple in design and capable of travelling fully loaded at 60mph on Germany’s new Autobahns. Production started in 1938, but the outbreak of hostilities meant that civilian vehicles only really started rolling

Replacement trim is easily available from specialists, while customised interiors are popular, too

214 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

in 1967, a conversion that many owners have carried out on earlier cars.

The 1970s saw the introduction of the 1.3-litre 1302 and 1.6 1302S. Meanwhile, suspension changes such as MacPherson struts up front and semi-trailing arms at the rear had helped increase boot space and tame the wayward back end. The 1303 Super Beetle arrived soon after, and had a plastic dash and curved screen. A number of changes were led by strict US regulations, and deeper bumpers, injection and catalytic converters were fitted to models bound for certain American states.

All right-hand-drive Beetle production ended in 1978, while 1979 marked the final year of manufacture for US and Canadian Beetles as well as the end of the

‘Numerous updates and changes were carried out over the years, and all Beetle aficionados have their favourites’

convertible in all markets. European sales ended in 1985, but the Beetle continued in other markets until 2003. An Aquarius Blue Final Edition example marked the end of 65 years of production.

ENGINE The basic air-cooled flat-four is considered to be very reliable. As long as the ignition timing and valve clearances are correct, and the cooling ducting hasn’t been removed or modified, the motor should provide years of trouble-free service. Oil changes every 3000 miles are crucial, as this also affects the cooling efficiency.

Modifications are common. They can provide a useful performance boost, but may well be detrimental to the longevity

of the engine. Components between certain models are interchangeable, and parts are still easy to come by.

The motor should sound smooth and even at idle. One way to check its condition is to pull on the bottom pulley to see how much movement there is in the crankshaft. If there’s play back and forth, you may need to budget for a rebuild.

As an aside, the heat exchangers that provide warmth to the cabin can rot badly, and are expensive to fix – the smell of exhaust fumes inside the car or just a lack of heat are sure signs of problems.

GEARBOX The long, spindly lever may not provide the most precise of changes, but if the

car is jumping out of gear or it feels like you are stirring soup to find a ratio, a linkage adjustment and new knuckle joint can make a big difference. Pre-1961 cars did not have synchromesh on first, so care is needed to avoid crunching the gears on these models.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES The basic suspension set-up of torsion beams at both ends was used until late in the 1960s. Then MacPherson front struts were introduced, and the swing-axle rear end was changed to an independently sprung design. In the UK, the frontsuspension update applied only to the 1302 and 1302S Super Beetles.

Torsion beams should be greased

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 215

VW BEETLE MODEL HISTORY 1938: Volkswagen Beetle begins production – halted soon after due to WW2 1945: Small-figure production restarted 1947: Production shifts to solely civilian vehicles. 25bhp 1.1-litre engine fitted 1950: Sunroof becomes an option 1953: Larger one-piece oval rear window replaces split design. 34bhp 1.2 engine 1955: Twin exhaust, flashing indicators and new taillights. One-millionth Beetle 1958: Instrument cluster updated; rectangular window replaces oval unit regularly, and do check that the tie-rod end rubbers are in good shape on the MacPherson set-up. Brakes were drums all round for most cars, with later models getting discs up front. The pads can last a long time, but erratic braking can be due to snapped drum springs or corroded innards.

BODYWORK The bad news is that most Beetles will have some form of rust; the good news is that panels are available, and repairs can be done by a number of specialists. Do inspect the door bottoms, footwells, sparewheel well, arches and rear quarter panels prior to purchase. The heater ducts (within the sills) that channel hot air from around the exhaust to the cabin regularly corrode, and the sills are also prone to rot.

INTERIOR There isn’t a lot to go wrong with the electrical system, as there isn’t much of it.

Pre-1967 cars had six-volt systems, and the subsequent 12V set-ups are preferable and can be retrofitted. Check for corroded connectors and damaged wiring if the lights or dash dials are giving issues.

Alternators replaced dynamos in 1971, and can also be retrofitted to most cars.

When it comes to trim, seats tend to sag over time, but replacement items are freely available, as are door cards and carpets.

Door rubbers, chrome trim pieces and even door locks can still be sourced and are generally reasonably priced.

216 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

‘Parts are widely available, but not all cars are worth saving – unless you find a particularly desirable example’ WHICH VW BEETLE TO BUY Serious collectors look for the pre-1958, oval-window variants. Survivors tend to have been restored, and projects are soon snapped up. Later cars, especially from 1968 on, are more suitable for those who plan to drive their Beetles more regularly.

Parts are widely available, although not all cars are worth saving – unless you find a particularly desirable example. A model with a good body but poor mechanicals is usually far more cost effective to repair than the other way around. More modern suspension and steering set-ups make the Super Beetles popular starter classics.

Values vary wildly between rusty projects and mint-condition, early, split-window cars. Modified examples done right can be fun, but originality is preferable if you’re looking to increase your investment.

Poor: £6000 Good: £8700 Excellent: £14,800 Concours: £17,300 (1967 1500)

1961: All forward gears gain synchro; 1.2-litre engine gets additional 6bhp 1967: Electrics upgraded to 12 volt 1970: 1.3-litre 1302 and 1.6 1302 S introduced. 1302 also comes as drop-top 1971: Bigger rear screen, better ventilation 1972: 1303 Super Beetle introduced 1973: 1303 convertible arrives 1978: RHD Beetle production ends 1979: US and Canadian production stops.

Convertible sales end in all markets 1985: European production ends 2003: Final Beetle rolls off line in Mexico

SPECIFICATIONS 1.2-litre air-cooled flat-four Power: 34bhp Top speed: 71mph 0-60mph: 25 seconds Economy: 42mpg 1.5-litre air-cooled flat-four Power: 44bhp Top speed: 78mph 0-60mph: 28 seconds Economy: 40mpg (est.)

1.6-litre air-cooled flat-four Power: 50bhp Top speed: 81mph 0-60mph: 22 seconds (est.)

Economy: 39mpg

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BUYING GUIDE

1950-1979

VW Type 2 Splitscreen and Bay Window Versatile and characterful, the first two generations of the iconic Type 2 have now become seriously desirable classics

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was offered in Kombi (with three rows of seats and a cargo area) and Commercial van bodystyles. Not long after, a Microbus with more seating capacity, ambulance and pick-up bodystyles joined the line-up.

Known as the Splitscreen, this firstgeneration T1 remained in production until 1967 in Europe, during which time it went through a wide range of changes and updates. An air-cooled flat-four was used throughout, initially 1.1 litres in capacity and gradually increasing to 1.5. Buses built up until 1955 are retrospectively referred to as the T1a or ‘barndoor’, due to the large rear engine cover.

This basic design continued production until 1975 in Brazil, although with several detail changes. Unique variants were sold

MAGIC CAR PICS

HILE THE ORIGINAL Volkswagen Beetle may no longer be the bestselling car of all time, its legacy lives on in vehicles as diverse as the Porsche 911 and the VW Type 2 bus. The former has evolved well beyond those humble beginnings, but the Type 2 was far closer in spirit and design to the Bug throughout its long production run.

Introduced in 1949 with production starting the following year, the Type 2 (T1) was based on the Beetle’s running gear and rear-engine layout. This forwardcontrol format allowed the driver to be placed right up front, freeing up the rest of the space to be used for a bewildering range of applications. Initially, though, it

in various parts of the world. The top of the factory range was the Samba van, with up to 23 windows, depending on the year. Another favourite in many parts of the globe was the Westfalia campervan, with its pop-up roof and fully kitted-out interior. These and other campervan conversions remain highly popular today.

The second-generation Type 2 (T2) was introduced in 1967, commonly referred to as the Bay Window. These variants were larger and heavier, and had a conventional single-piece windscreen. Debuting with a more powerful 1.6-litre engine, uprated rear suspension and 12-volt electronics, the T2 was an altogether more modern offering – although, inevitably, some of the charm of the original had been lost.

The T2b, or Late Bay Window, model was phased in from 1971. It received front disc brakes and a more powerful 1.6-litre engine, while later a Type 4 motor was offered in 1.7, 1.8 and 2.0-litre capacities.

An automatic transmission, electronic ignition and fuel injection (US models from 1975-on) were also introduced.

Once again, the T2 was offered with a large variety of bodystyles, and it remained a strong seller right up until the T3 replaced it in Europe and the US in 1979. As with the T1, the T2 continued to be produced in Brazil until 2005 in air-cooled form, and to 2013 with water-cooled engines.

ENGINE

Most cabin parts are reproduced, but some can be hard to find. Check campervan fittings work

218 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

The Beetle-sourced flat-fours are robust, although regular servicing is crucial and oil changes should be carried out every

‘The question is not whether you can restore your bus, but whether it’s financially viable to do so’

3000 miles. Minor leaks are normal, but if the bus is using a lot of oil between changes it may have worn valve guides.

Blue smoke under acceleration is the clue; a small puff on start-up is usually OK. The post-1972 T4 engines have a reputation for being more reliable than the earlier motors, and the larger-capacity units provided a bit more torque to help pull that heavy body. The 2.0-litre engines got hydraulic valve lifters from 1978-on, so do not need valve-clearance adjustment like the earlier versions do. Modified units and conversions are common.

Rebuilds are not generally prohibitively expensive, and spare parts are still freely available. Check the condition of the engine by pulling on the lower pulley to see how much play there is in the crankshaft; too much, and it may be time for a rebuild. Fuel lines should be replaced periodically as they can fray and become a potential fire hazard. Some owners also relocate the fuel filter to sit outside the engine compartment for the same reason.

GEARBOX Four-speed manual ’boxes are the most common, and while the shift action is generally less than precise, the ratios should engage smoothly. If it pops out of gear, then it may need a replacement knuckle joint. Automatics are rare and parts are less easy to find; they also sap the limited power on offer, so most owners tend to prefer the manuals.

220 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Early Splitscreen and Bay Window buses had drums all round. These work fine when well maintained, but for heavier models such as the Westfalia campervan you may want to look at the post-1971 buses as they got discs up front.

Unless you are buying a fully restored bus, the suspension rubbers, steering box and ball-joints will all need attention. The T2 did away with the swing-axle rear end, which made for more predictable cornering, and many buses have been lowered, which also makes a difference to the handling. Be aware, though, that larger wheels and extreme suspension mods can make the ride very uncomfortable.

BODYWORK Rust is your enemy regardless of the year or bodystyle. While the entire structure can be affected, make sure to thoroughly inspect the areas around the windscreen, floorpan and chassis rails. Roof gutters tend to corrode, especially on pop-up-roof buses. New panels are available but costs can soon mount, so either have a specialist inspect a potential purchase or take a knowledgeable friend with you.

INTERIOR The cabin is relatively basic, although the campervans had specialised kit and fittings which may not be easy to source. Check that the sinks and cookers work properly, and that the gas-bottle piping is in good

condition. T1 and T2 electronics are basic, although the latter has an upgraded 12volt set-up. Just about every component can be refurbished or replaced, but if a lot needs doing, factor this into your offer.

WHICH VOLKSWAGEN TYPE 2 SPLITSCREEN OR BAY WINDOW TO BUY Splitscreen buses tend to command the highest prices, especially good campers. If you’re looking to drive your bus more often than just admire it, 1971-on Bay Window T2s are the most enjoyable to own.

Parts availability is superb. The question is not whether you can restore your bus, but whether it’s financially viable to do so.

Splitscreens’ high values mean they tend to undergo the most comprehensive renovations, although there are plenty of rusty projects about if you fancy a challenge.

Whichever model year or variant you prefer, it is always better to buy a structurally sound vehicle with poor mechanicals than the other way around, because repairing a corroded body can often cost more than the bus is worth.

Importing one from drier parts of the US, Australia or South Africa can be a good idea, too. Originality will always push values up, but few buses are left standard and sympathetically modified examples can often be even more enjoyable to drive.

Fair: £8900 Good: £14,800 Excellent: £25,400 Concours: £36,900 (1971 Bay)

BUYING GUIDE

VW TYPE 2 SPLITSCREEN AND BAY WINDOW MODEL HISTORY 1950: Production of Type 2 T1 begins, initially with 24bhp 1.1-litre engine, four-speed manual and Kombi bodystyle.

Split windscreen is defining feature Available in both Bay Window and earlier Splitscreen variants, the Type 2 bus has become a cultural icon of a more free and simple age

1951: Deluxe Microbus/ambulance added 1953: 30bhp 1.2-litre flat-four introduced 1955: Modifications to engine bay and body; move to 15-inch wheels. These models referred to as T1b 1963: 42bhp 1.5-litre engine becomes standard in US, optional elsewhere 1967: European Type 2 T1 production ends, with new Type 2 T2 introduced. T1 continues in modified form until 1975 in Brazil. T2 Bay Window has 47bhp 1.6-litre, modified rear suspension, redesigned body and one-piece windscreen 1971: Front disc brakes and dual-intakeport 50bhp 1.6-litre engine introduced.

Type 4 66bhp 1.7 made available 1973: Three-speed auto now optional.

Indicators set higher in body; bumpers modified to meet US safety requirements 1974: 67bhp 1.8-litre engine replaces 1.7 1975: US-spec buses get fuel injection 1976: 70bhp 2.0-litre supersedes 1.8 1978: 2.0-litre engine gets hydraulic lifters and electronic ignition 1979: European and US T2 sales end.

Production continues in Brazil in modified form until 2013

SPECIFICATIONS 1.5-litre air-cooled flat-four (Type 2 T1) Power: 42bhp Top speed: 70mph (est.)

0-60mph: 28 seconds (est.)

Economy: 33mpg 2.0-litre air-cooled flat-four (Type 2 T2) Power: 70bhp Top speed: 80mph (est.)

0-60mph: 20 seconds (est.)

Economy: 30mpg CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 221

BUYING GUIDE

1974-1992

VW Golf Mk1 and Mk2

While these early Golfs make for great practical classics, the GTIs add another dimension to the experience. It’s the hatch that changed the game

R

inline-fours, while a 74bhp 1.6 initially topped off the range. Then, in 1976, a far sportier model was revealed, the GTI. Offering a fuel-injected 108bhp 1.6-litre motor allied to a close-ratio four-speed transmission, it raised performance to a whole new level. It was initially intended to be a low-volume model, but the GTI formula proved so successful that almost half a million cars were eventually built.

The GTI might not have been the first sporty hatchback, but it more than made the segment its own and was the first to be referred to as a ‘hot hatch’.

A right-hand-drive variant was finally made available for the UK market in 1979, and later that same year a five-speed

MAGIC CAR PICS

EPLACING AN ICON AS successful as the original Volkswagen Beetle was never going to be an easy task, and a number of early prototypes were discarded before the VW board gave the Giugiaro-designed Golf the green light in 1974. The transversely mounted, watercooled inline-four engine, front-wheeldrive layout and angular hatchback body couldn’t have been further in concept from the Bug, but it was clearly the right move; the Mk1 Golf ushered in a new era of affordable, practical and – especially in GTI form – fun small cars.

The earliest examples came fitted with fuel-efficient 49bhp 1.1-litre or 69bhp 1.5

Interior parts available for Mk1 GTIs and, to a lesser extent, Mk2s, but are tricky for other models

222 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

transmission became standard fitment.

To extend its lead, the GTI was updated with a 110bhp 1.8-litre motor in 1982, and numerous special-edition variants were based on this model.

The Mk2 Golf was introduced in 1983.

It was a thoroughly updated car featuring a larger bodyshell, more powerful engines and better brakes – something that was especially lacking in the original GTI. The Mk2 was offered in both three- and fivedoor bodystyles, but there was no new convertible. A range of petrol engines from 1.0 to 1.8 litres were available in the non-performance variants, as well as a 1.6-litre diesel with and without a turbo.

Rivals had been hard at work, too, and both Ford and Peugeot now offered hot

‘Volkswagen Golf Mk1 ushered in a new era of affordable, practical and – especially in GTI form – fun small cars’

hatches of their own – but fortunately the new GTI was even better than before. The first batch featured the same 110bhp 1.8-litre motor as before, but in 1986 a 16-valve version with 137bhp was added to the range. The US market got a 2.0-litre variant of this motor from 1990-on, with slightly less power but more torque. Two limited-edition supercharged G60 models were also offered; the 160bhp 4WD G60 Rallye (5000 built), and the 207bhp G60, which really was limited, with just 70 examples made available.

Meanwhile, the regular GTI was much improved, too. With disc brakes all round and more pliant suspension settings, it was a formidable challenger right up until it was replaced by the Mk3 Golf in 1992.

ENGINE The basic 1.1-, 1.3-, 1.5- and 1.6-litre fours are all rugged units, with the usual caveat that servicing intervals need to be adhered to. Fuel injection was standard on the GTI, but carburettors were used on most of the normal models. Both systems work well enough, although the vacuum hoses can crack on injected variants, which upsets the mixture of air and fuel. Rough running or poor idling on non-GTI examples could be due to damaged HT leads or worn carbs.

Blue smoke on start-up could signal worn valve guides, which will eventually necessitate a top-end rebuild. Cambelts need inspecting for wear, and these should be replaced every 40,000 miles or

at least every four years. Oil pumps on 8v GTIs tend to need replacing sooner than on their 16v counterparts, but both have dual fuel pumps (one inside the tank and one under the car) that can cause poor running if faulty.

GEARBOX The Mk1 cars had four-speed units until 1979, when a five-speed ’box became an option. All GTIs got the upgraded fivespeed transmission from this point on.

Both are strong, but synchromeshes tend to wear out on second gear and loose linkages can translate into inaccurate changes. Transmission-fluid leaks can signal an imminent rebuild, especially if fifth gear is noisy or hard to engage.

CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 223

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Worn bushes and tired dampers will make the ride feel uncomposed. If you hear a loud knocking noise when driving over bumps, the springs and suspension top mounts may also be ready for replacement. GTIs are more likely to have lowered suspension and larger alloy wheels fitted. Both can ruin the ride quality for marginal handling benefits.

Brakes require no special attention, and some Golfs may have been upgraded with Mk3 components. This is not necessarily a bad thing, especially on early cars.

BODYWORK Mk1s are generally more prone to the tin worm than the better-galvanised Mk2s, but don’t get complacent. Repairs to structural areas can be pricey on either model. Common places to check are the front wings, windscreen surrounds, door sills, footwells and around the tailgate.

The Mk1s are known to corrode around the fuel-filler neck, while you should take extra care to inspect for accident damage on GTIs. Replacement body panels are sometimes tricky to source.

INTERIOR Cabins are relatively basic and hard wearing, but missing trim is very hard to source, except for GTIs. Wonky electrics are not uncommon, and can be traced to damaged fuse boxes either from water ingress or the fitment of aftermarket

224 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

alarms and stereo systems. Rear-wiper motors can get clogged up with dirt on Mk2s, while the fan and heater system on both models can become problematic.

WHICH GOLF MK1 OR MK2 TO BUY The Golf Mk1 and Mk2 both make for great starter classics, as long as you avoid suspiciously well priced examples or overly modified examples. Cars with mechanical issues are preferable to those with incomplete cabins or badly corroded bodywork. Check the service history and ask for proof of any claimed restorations.

Beware that while there are plenty of Golf specialists, not all are reputable.

Automatics are not very thrilling, and neither are the earliest 1.1-litre cars. Look at the 1.5- and 1.6-litre Mk1s or 1.6 Mk2s instead. The GTIs command the highest prices, with the Mk1s leading the charge.

We’d put our money towards a Mk2 8v, as they offer a more composed drive than their earlier counterpart while being more reliable and less peaky than the later 16v.

However, with good-quality examples getting increasingly harder to come by, your choice may be made for you by what is available at the time. The good news is that any GTI is a blast to drive, while even the base models offer an enjoyable retro experience from behind the wheel.

Fair: £6900 Good: £9100 Excellent: £15,400 Concours: £21,800 (Mk2 GTI)

‘The good news is that any GTI is a blast to drive, while even the base models offer an enjoyable retro experience from behind the wheel’

Mk1 Golf was available as a Cabriolet and continued alongside the tin-top Mk2 Golf

BUYING GUIDE

VW GOLF MK1 AND MK2 MODEL HISTORY 1974: Giugiaro-styled Golf launched.

1.1- and 1.5-litre inline-fours offered with a four-speed manual or three-speed automatic option for 1.5 1975: Air-conditioning appears on options list and 1.6-litre engine arrives 1976: 108bhp 1.6-litre GTI introduced 1979: Five-speed manual becomes available on 1.5- and 1.6-litre models, and is standard on GTI. 1.3-litre engine arrives 1980: Updated dashboard and instrument display introduced.

1.6-litre diesel engine added to range. Golf Cabriolet introduced 1982: GTI gets 110bhp 1.8-litre engine.

1.6-litre turbodiesel offered 1983: Golf Mk1 production ends, making way for new Mk2. Larger body, uprated braking and more engine options offered, only LHD models initially available 1984: RHD Mk2 goes into production.

Mk2 GTI introduced, featuring 110bhp 1.8-litre powerplant. Launched in three-door bodystyle first, then five-door arrives later same year

SPECIFICATIONS 1.1-litre inline-four (Mk1) Power: 49bhp Top speed: 90mph 0-60mph: 15.0 seconds Economy: 31mpg

Golf Mk2 was introduced in 1983 as a bigger, more powerful and furtherhoned successor to the original car. GTI was taken to new levels of hot-hatch fun, too

1.6-litre inline-four (Mk1 GTI) Power: 108bhp Top speed: 114mph 0-60mph: 9.0 seconds Economy: 27mpg 1.8-litre inline-four 8v (Mk2 GTI) Power: 110bhp Top speed: 116mph 0-60mph: 8.3 seconds Economy: 27mpg

1986: Three-door 137bhp 16v GTI arrives 1987: Visual changes include removal of quarterlights, while 8v GTI gets upgraded fuel injection. 16v GTI can be optioned with digital instrument pack 1989: Facelift introduces big bumpers across range. 16v GTI now has standard power steering and new BBS alloy wheels. 160bhp supercharged 4WD Rallye G60 introduced (5000 built) 1990: Power steering standard on 8v GTI, and five-door 16v GTI introduced. 210bhp 4WD supercharged G60 launched (70 built) 1991: 8v GTI gets electric front windows, BBS alloys and upgraded suspension 1992: Mk2 Golf production ends CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE 225

TOP TEN CLASSIC BARGAINS

AUDI TT

One of Audi’s best-known models, with high-performance derivatives, an appealing simplicity of line, tough mechanicals and ridiculously low prices. Collectability is on the up.

SUBARU IMPREZA TURBO

How many rally icons with four-wheel drive and over 200bhp can you buy so cheaply? Prices are rising, so be quick – especially as rot issues mean early cars are being scrapped at a worrying rate.

PORSCHE BOXSTER

MAGIC CAR PICS, PORSCHE, LAND ROVER, SUBARU, AUDI, RM SOTHEBY’S

An excellent sports car, worthy of the Porsche name, and early ones are now seen as classics. Watch out for spares prices, though; inevitable hard driving will mean frequent replacements.

MERCEDES R107 AND C107

Typically of Mercedes classics, these variations on the SL name pull you in with discreet, stylish looks and often-surprising performance. Their desirability will continue to rise.

226 CLASSIC CAR BUYING GUIDE

ASTON MARTIN DB9

Can a DB9 ever be a bargain? Well, look at what you get: an iconic design, scintillating performance, prices at an all-time low and better running costs than you might expect. What a car!

Top ten classic car bargains There are still bargains out there at every level, particularly among the modern classics. You’ll find full buying guides for them within these pages or on the Classic Trader website LAND ROVER DISCOVERY S1

Values for the classic Range Rover are spiralling out of control, but the lowerpriced Discovery is also regarded as a Land Rover design icon – with similar, if not better, off-road ability, too.

JAGUAR MK2

It may not be as fashionable as the E-type right now, but prices are sure to rise. Exteriors and interiors should remain mostly standard, but tweaks under the skin can be transformational.

ROVER MINI

Earliest cars aside, Mini timelines are starting to merge into one – and the Rover Minis are just as fun to drive and cheap to run as their ancestors. All are prone to rust, though… so buy carefully!

LAMBORGHINI MIURA

This beautiful machine was the model for which the term ‘supercar’ was popularised. The engine is tough, the construction is fairly basic under the skin and the values are going up and up.

ALFA ROMEO GIULIA BERLINA Budget doesn’t stretch to a Giulia Bertone coupé? Bear in mind that a berlina (saloon) does the same job, with all the same bits underneath.

Prices are crawling upwards, though...

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