Future Thinking Inclusivity Report FMB

INCLUSIVITY & DIVERSITY Focusing on Female Empowerment

1 2 3 PERSONAL INFORMATION MAGGIE STEWART N0749568 WORD COUNT: 3129

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CONTENTS INTRODUCTION, 4 AIMS & OBJECTIVES, 6 METHODOLOGY, 7

ORIGIN OF TREND, 8 EVOLUTION OF TREND, 12 DRIVERS OF EVOLUTION, 14 OTHER INDUSTRIES, 20 PEST ANALYSIS, 25

RECONNENDATIONS, 26

“Human beings possess a fundamental need for inclusion and belonging�

(James, W., 1890) This report will explore how society has impacted the treatment of injustices diversity and inclusivity with a particular focus on the impact of traditional gender ideologies with regards to the treatment of women.

Knowledgeable recommendations will be made to consider the future of the trend of Female Empowerment within the wider trend of Inclusivity and Diversity. To achieve this the report will analyse the trends societal and corporate impacts across industry sectors such as Health, Finance, and Fashion. The difference between diversity and inclusivity will also be explored in order to underpin the evolution of the trend.

INTRODUCTION

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AIMS & OBJECTIVES

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Determine how Female Empowerment has evolved through the influence of Millennial, Generation Z, and Generation Alpha’s rejection of societal labels.

This report uses multiple secondary sources in order to fully understand the fashion industry, as well as prevalent marketing trends that are influencing consumer behaviour and brands. Online trend prediction agencies such as LS:N Global and JW Intelligence were used to gauge market trends. Although this allowed for potential gaps to be identified, trends were often repeated through several prediction sites. More time would have allowed for a broader depth of research to be conducted, which would therefore give a wider variety of recommendations. Books based around marketing, consumer behaviour, and diversity were used. This was very beneficial as it gave theoretical understanding to the trend research, grounding it with context. However, the subject matter was often too broad, focusing on workplace diversity. If more time was had preparations would be made to attend seminars on the female experience as researching around this topic often felt too generic.

Understand the history of inclusivity and diversity, and how the relationship between men and women has shaped modern societal views of women.

Explore the possible direction and areas of growth for the trend of Female Empowerment through macro trend and consumer behaviour analysis.

METHODOLOGY 6

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TREND ORIGIN The issue of inclusivity and diversity has fluctuated in relevance within popular culture throughout the decades, and has affected consumer groups such as women and ethnic minorities who have suffered from some form of oppression.

However, the recognition of these injustices would often only be recognised by society once the situation was at it’s worst.

An example of this was the changing of a cerebral palsy charities name from The Spastic Society to Scope in 1994 (Rose 2014). This coincided with political changes to recognise discrimination amongst the disabled, but was also driven by slang culture altering the definition of the term ‘Spastic’ from positive to negative, by using it as an insult. Issues within minority communities are more likely recognised through the involvement of the public when they deemed it worthy of change, rather than those being affected being heard. This previous mindset is now being challenged by more socially conscious generations and consumer groups. Champions of inclusion Benetton created ground breaking marketing campaigns, helping to bring awareness of minority groups and the issue of diversity, but the lack of inclusion steamed from the fashion industries foundation of exclusivity which author Brett Easton-Ellis notes if everyone is equal then nothing is special (Easton-Ellis 2019).

Religion or Belief

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THE EQUALITY ACT 2010

FEMALE EMPOWERMENT FOCUS

Driven by a digitally connected world, globalisation, and the resurgence of feminism through it’s 4th wave, female empowerment has become a key aspect of the discussion of inclusivity and diversity. Gender inequality is integral to the progression on this trend, which is recognised through gender pay gaps, workplace and societal diversity.

The traditional concepts of mass consumption, and societal expectations placed upon women as baby makers are also central to the issue of female empowerment. Mass consumption has influenced gender inequality by using gender roles as a marketing or selling tool, with Lunt and Livingstone finding that “Talking to men and women about the goods they own continually throws up issues of gender, in terms of gender identity, masculine and feminine ideals, role expectations and conflicts, power inequality and ideology� (K. Lunt and M. Livingstone 1992). Feminist movements such as Me too and Times Up have pushed female empowerment into the public consciousness. Yet the global gender pay gap is 23% with women being more likely to be unemployed, change needs to be recognised within grassroots communities rather than in the media (UNWomen 2018).

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TREND EVOLUTION

This segment of the report will analyse how the trend has progressed from physical diversity, to mental and physical inclusion. External drivers of this evolution will be considered alongside the impacts of influencing sub-trends.

Familial roles, traditional gender ideologies, and mass consumption, all influence one another to further impose gender inequality. Firstly, the role of the mother is described

by Sethna and Blythe, as the “purchasing agent” within the household (Sethna and Blythe 2019, p. 416). This role is responsible for most of the shopping for the home, which in

turn then genders that form of consumption, leading men to view the task as emasculating (K. Lunt and M. Livingstone 1992). This illustrates how consumer behaviours within family relationships has had a negative correlation to the representation of women within society, as overtime the role of ‘housewife’ has become oppressive due to the stigma caused by sexist advertising in the 1950s and 60s (See appendix). These traditional gender ideologies have also lead to a knock on effect for the economy with women’s resources confined to the household there were fewer females in the workforce (K.Lunt, P., and M. Livingstone, S., 1992). However, several macro trends are emerging that demonstrate women’s appetite for independence and are challenging traditional gender ideologies through education and community.

DIVERSITY

TO INCLUSIVITY The evolution of this trend can be defined by the move from simple diversity, which is defined as “the state of being diverse or having large variety” (Struve 2019), to true inclusivity “the practice or policy of including people who might otherwise be excluded or marginalized” (Struve 2019). It was previously acceptable to provide shallow offerings to appease consumers, but as cohorts search for genuine connection and truth from brands, these consumer desire a reflection of reality in marketing. This is evidenced through the trends Instagram Backlash (Safain-Demers 2019), and Post - Influencers redefining the formula of online popularity (West 2019)

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TREND DRIVERS SINGLE LIVING

“An estimated 45% of working women aged 25-44 in the US will be single by 2030, up from 41% in 2018” (Mahdawi 2019)

Families are defined by 4 characteristics; “Face-to-Face Contact, Shared Consumption, Subordination of Individual Needs, and Purchasing Agent.” (Sethna and Blythe 2019). Their co-habitual, shared consumption leads each member to become an adviser for the others on various levels of influence. However, as the number of single households is predicted to grow by 1.9% annually for the next decade, according to Euromonitor, with UK specifically seeing a 17% rise, to 28%, in single-person households from 1971 (Houghton, Walker, 2019) consumers will lack this influence and therefore begin to lean on brands for support, as evidenced in the macro trend Brand Therapists (See Appendix). Young professionals and consumers growing older alone are key consumer groups driving this growth (Houghton, Walker, 2019). Brands should be aware of these consumers buying less, but more often, as well as focusing on peer to peer and online reviews to persuade to purchase, as they substitute the internet for the lack of family advisors.

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Globally, lower birth and marriage rates can be associated with the trend of single living, as more women are choosing to become careerist over starting a family (Jeffery 2018). Particular ambition can be seen within emerging markets like Brazil as lower birth rates in the west (Barak 2011 p92) as well as increased internet access in the developing world (Angus and Westbrook 2019) create global opportunities for migrant workers. Being single is becoming accepted not as a temporary state, but as a choice (Houghton, Walker, 2019). This statement has a more meaningful impact for women as these changes begin to take effect within societal judgements, female confidence and ambition will grow. This wider acceptance has undoubtedly been helped by the presence of the 4th wave of feminism within popular culture, which characterises itself as “a resurgence of feminism that is driven by younger women who harness the power of the Internet and social media to challenge gender inequity” (Maclaren 2015, p. 1732). These cohorts are using the internet to build communities of women who use education to empower each other and themselves. However, this could be considered damaging to gender equality as this is encouraging segregation of genders.

Marriage is being put lower down on women’s priority list meaning there is a growing workforce of career focused women with ambition, that will ultimately put pressure on wage expectations and therefore increase consumer spending (Jeffery, 2018). Trends such as Mothers Ambition which reflects this trend for careerist women and mothers. Despite this “motherhood is by far the largest contributor to the wage gap (MorganStanley, 2019) implying this trend still has room to grow along with female empowerment movements, as the trend continues to encourage female confidence.

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“The percentage of under 35s who are married with children has fallen steadily since 1970, hitting just 20% in 2015” (Safian-Demers 2019)

MASS CONSUMPTION & GENDER IDENTITY As previously mentioned mass consumption has caused gender roles to be emphasised which has lead to an increase in gender inequality. An example of this is Dell, who released a female focused website called ‘Della’ using feminine colours and featured tips on calorie counting, which left women feeling patronised (Silverstein and Sayer 2009).

Now the idea of gendered marketing is being called into question for its relevance to newer generations as more cohorts are choosing to become non binary, rejecting societal labels by displaying a bricolage of self through social media, as they are uncomfortable having only one self (Francis and Hoefel 2018). This characteristic of these generations has spread to brand awareness as seen through Mattel release of non binary, gender fluid dolls, becoming a reflection of culture (Houghton et al, 2019).Generation Z and Alpha are driving an age of individualism (Friend 2019), as they refuse to accept mass produced fashions and product offerings this consumer shift could increase in the uptake of the sustainability trend of Circular or Sharing Economy as a form or rebellion against gendered, mass products. This will prove interesting for China’s consumer market, as they hold the largest percentage of Millennials yet has the worlds largest industrial output (World Atlas 2016).

Brands look to slim line their product portfolios, marketing the benefits of the product regardless of gender to capture Millennial and Generation Z’s heavy buying power. However, shifts in consumer behaviour are showing that generational trends are generalisations and brands should consider these characteristics being applicable to other cohorts. An example of this would be Baby Boomers, who are a significant demographic due to people living longer and working later with “50+ who account for 52% in Germany and 51% in Italy” (Sethna and Blythe 2019). They want to remain active in society which implies an interest in sustainability efforts such as Circular Economy.

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OTHER INDUSTRIES HEALTH & WELLBEING Intimate health and wellbeing has traditionally been positioned as taboo and overall sexualised through female representation within mass media, particularly the porn industry. An example of this is Facebook banning an advert for vaginal health book ‘The Vagina Diaries’ for vulgar language, this ultimately denies young girls the opportunity to understand their bodies which places an internal negativity on women’s self image as their own sex or body is deemed as inappropriate for discussion. This has resulted in females experiencing low self esteem in conjunction to their bodies, as 60% of females placed their drop in confidence when they started their periods (Safain-Demers 2019). More recently however, with the Zeitgeist of truth and self expression, driven by Generation Z (Mckinsey Company, 2019) and the 4th wave of feminism, the topic of intimate and sexual female health are slowly being introduced into popular culture. Intimate health brands such as Blume form a subscription based service that facilitates the destigmatization of conversations around puberty for young girls. Community platforms are commonly being used to normalise and educate around the female body driven by the consumer behavioural shift to push back against the isolation and negativity the digital world can facilitate (Safian-Demers 2019). Generation Z and Alpha will likely become an increasingly important consumer segment from brands in this industry.

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FASHION INDUSTRY

As the Zeitgeist of a labelless society continues to grow, brands across all sectors of the fashion industry are responding with a gender fluid offerings. The nature of gender fluidity allows females to break away from societal expectations of female beauty within the safety of a fashion tribe, empowering women to test and play with their identity. Women wearing men’s clothing is not new, with influential designer Yohji Yamamoto fitting women with mens designs in 1983, as they looked better (Cordero 2019). While this was still radical, the traditional onus placed on men to protect women as their property (See Appendix), the wearing of male clothing could be positioned as the territorial and was therefore acceptable.

A poignant change has come through males having less hesitation in wearing female clothing, likely driven by generations being visually overloaded which has resulted in the normalisation of radical forms of expression (Cordero 2019). This change has featured more within luxury fashion in comparison to the high street, but as Velben outlines within the trickle down theory, this trend is likely to begin to appear over the coming seasons. This is evidenced through data found by J.W Intelligence, showing 78% of Gen Z’s believing gender doesn’t matter showing an adaptation to a genderless society (Laughlin 2016).

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PEST ANALYSIS The global impact of Female Empowerment can be seen in the consumer shift toward ambitious females, as previously mentioned. Emerging markets such as Brazil are experiencing a surge in female ambition thanks increase opportunities in developed markets due to slow population growth, which suggests immigration will be a large economic driver in the future (Barak 2011 pg 92). This ambition could also relate to improved representation of women in politics with Colombia recently electing its first female mayor. This increased confidence has seen a rise in female only financial communities, such as Wealtiher and Gurls Talk, using education to empower women to be independent. This service offering is likely to increase as more women choose careers over starting a family.

A new phenomenon fuelled by Female Empowerment and social media is seeing young girls using fillers to achieve ‘rich girl face’ for a filtered look (Walden 2019). Young girls are being influenced by the encouragement to feel empowered by your own choices, but the unregulated nature of the cosmetic procedures could lead to an epidemic of skewed self image as digital realities continue to blur with the physical. Subtle guidance should be given through female community platforms around the implications of heightened independence, and the responsibility to self. This will retain the cohorts individuality they crave whilst protecting their fragile sense of self.

Female empowerment has directly impacted the way streetwear brands are targeting women through the rejection of the ‘Shrink it Pink it’ formula, and the recognition of lack of female representation within the streetwear market (Casagrande 2019). New silhouettes (typically sneakers) are released in male sizing which are then converted dependant on demand into female sizing with new feminine colour ways. With clothing becoming more gender fluid there is less reasoning for this exclusion, with both women and men purchasing from opposite gender specific collections. Steph Curry’s footwear collection being called out for no womens sizing, unisex range was quickly released with male and female marketing. “The unisex conversation is important in streetwear, as women’s product isn’t traditionally feminine.”

(Ahn, Casagrande, 2019). The future of this market will see consumers embracing concepts and ideas over gender.

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FINAL RECOMMENDATIONS

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Destigmatization Biological Pitfalls of Being a Woman. As feminism continues to evolve inside the digital world, customers will expect a wider acceptance of a variety of issues pertaining specifically to women. More communities of support will arise with the intention of targeting 11-16 year olds, focusing on empowering girls younger to inspire confidence later. The three stages in which women are expected to be less than themselves (Puberty, Pregnancy, and Menopause) within societal views will be challenged and normalised. Emphasis will be placed upon the intimacy with the self before others.

Hyper Equality will power Female Empowerment. Men becoming more comfortable in expressing their femininity by exploring self expression through fashion will lead to an increase understanding across genders. The trend will move toward homogeneous society with education around both genders being a key focus. Consumer behaviour is pointing toward being sold the feeling or benefit of a product vs. the specific targeting. Consumers want to feel free to enjoy what they like, this will be reflected within industries across the global.

Female-Wealth Confidence. “With US women set to control over two thirds of the nation’s wealth by 2020, but only 12% of girls feeling confident in their financial skills� (Mahdawi 2019) Financial support and groups are encouraging women to understand their personal and professional finances to help fill the gender wage gap.

As women continue to focus on their careers over raising families straight away, the demand for this support on various economic elements will increase. This, however, does not have a sole focus on just empowering women to specifically become entrepreneurs, it can also be about family succession planning, providing educational opportunities, investing wisely for retirement plans. The point is about empowering women financially to make the right decisions for themselves. A focus on personal finance wellbeing.

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APPENDIX

Instagram backlash trend. The New York Times poked fun at the recent string of cynical, shallow Instagram “experiences” in a widely shared piece “The Existential Void of the PopUp Experience.”

Instagram influencers are now being viewed as a ‘dishonest business model’, Keith Weed, CMO of Unilever said “urgent action must be taken now before the trust is lost forever”.

1950s and 60s Sexist advertising. Women were placed in the home as the most beneficial use of their resources. This expectation has followed women through the ages due to their ability to bear children. Brands and marketing campaigns enforced this expectation through hyper gendered, sexist marketing, based on the understanding that womens only goal was her husbands needs, with her own coming secondary. This is also influened by the era of Mad Men, when advertising was a booming, male dominated industry who used advertising as a method to shape women into docile, obedient servants to men.

Jessica Matlin, beauty director at Harper’s Bazaar, thinks this too is on the wane. “I think people will demand more than getting their picture taken next to props. I think for people to get out of their homes and pay money to go somewhere—and deal with lines and crowds—there needs to be more in it than a photo. Ideally they need to learn something, make a connection with someone, or get a real value,” she says. “As for aesthetics, we see it happening in beauty right now. The heavily madeup look is already waning, and we see more of a desire for a fresher, more natural-looking glow. That sort of artificial Instagram look is starting to look dated and inauthentic. People know it takes hours, is often filtered, and it just feels out of step with the moment we’re in.”

There are periods of enthusiasm, saturation, and backlash - 3 clear periods. Consumer behaviour also follows this pattern of enthusiasm, creativity, to self-awareness. Brand path is likely to follow suit. Heavily accelerated process due to maturity of landscape.

IGTV shows hopeful outlet for genuine content. Derek Blasberg hired by YT to focus on beauty/fashion route.

Brand Therapists trend. This links to the trend of humanising digital/brand experiences with brand loyalty now being dependant on consumers having an emotional tie to the brand. Brands are focusing on consumer wellness that encourages engagement. This, and other trends, are linked to the marketing trend of ‘Mediavolution’ in which brands have a flagship product and build a following around that, which can be leveraged for bigger or more brand extension opportunities. An original example of this trend is the likes of Amazon moving into original film/television productions (which is likely to have caused a chain of other brands, such as uber in the trend uber ecosystems, to think about becoming ‘one-stop-shop’ brands for consumers). The trend of Mediavolution is aiming to understand what their consumers desire from each medium, as the variety in which they can now consume content bring about singular desires from each.

Men owning women as property, Coveture explained. Coverture (sometimes spelled couverture) was a legal doctrine whereby, upon marriage, a woman’s legal rights and obligations were subsumed by those of her husband, in accordance with the wife’s legal status of feme covert

The theory of conspicuous consumption was introduced by Thorstein Veblen in his book The Theory of the Leisure Class. It suggests that people spend money on obtaining luxury goods and services to give an indication of their wealth to other members of society. He comments society’s endless quest for novelty maintaining that ‘elegance’ or elaborateness of dress, which are indicative of expense, drive fashion change. The immitation of consumption behaviour is done to enhance their social status. When applied to fashion, this theory states that when the lowest social class (in this case highstreet fashion) adopts the higher levels of societies fashion to replicate the association of wealth and prosperity.

(Revell DeLong 2019).

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PEST Model P Xennial Politicians (Safian-Demers 2019) Far right terrorism report count for 1/4 of all british terrorist crimes. (BBC 2019) Colombia elects first female mayor of Bogota (BBC 2019) E Lack of female Venture Capitalists and entrepreneurs show diversity issues with financial industry (MorganStanley 2019) S Consumers are turning to cosmetic surgery at young ages to keep up with social media aesthetic (Walden 2019).

650,000 people in the UK are likely to be gender incongruent to some degree (House of Commons, 2015).

T AI influencers are appealing to tech savvy generations labeless identities (safian-Demers 2019) Consumer motivation model.

“Needs are a perceived lack of something, whereas wants are specific satisfiers” (Sethna and Blythe 2019). “The individual should not only be without something, but should also perceive this as something that would make life more pleasant or convenient” (Sethna and Blythe 2019) Primary Motives - Reasons to buy ie. need a new product as the current one isn’t working as well.

Secondary Motives - Reasons behind buying into a brand Rational Motives - Reasoning behind purchase motivated by current situation, practical needs of purchase ie. need a 6 seater card due to children or need big boot space as you vacation often.

Emotional Motives - Emotions behind buying into a brand, feelings about the brand.

Conscious Motives - The elements of motivation you are aware of, the need to purchase the product. You acknowledge this needs to be achieved.

Dormant Motives - Hidden desires behind purchase, you may want to buy something to prove you’re cool or young.

Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, 1943, demonstrates the levels of satisfaction humans need to achieve to reach happiness according to their needs. Brands should work toward this to achieve consumer loyalty.

Brands that are adhering to the trend of Inclusivity should focus on the secondary, emotional,

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