Fifth Chukker, Issue 14, 2019

ISSUE 14

Adventures in Luxury

Valuable Vintage Motorbikes More To Them Than A Ride

No Business like Golf Business

Rwanda

Where Magical Mountain Gorillas Reside

fifthchukker.com fifthchukkermagazine.com

2017 - 2019

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WOVEN INTO THE FABRIC OF SOCIETY Y E A R S

1894-2019

Contents ISSUE 14

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EDITOR’S LETTER Yasemen Kaner-White

LAST SEASON AT FIFTH CHUKKER

10 ACCESS BANK AND

FIFTH CHUKKER UNICEF

CHARITY SHIELD

A significant new school project reinforces the Charity Shield as a premier sports charity event in Nigeria.

18 CHILDREN’S DAY – GIVING BACK

Fifth Chukker brought together

more than 200 children from diverse backgrounds and institutions to celebrate The UNICEF World Children’s day at its Kangimi resorts.

ART IN FOCUS

19 ART X LAGOS West Africa’s Prime Art Fair splashes up another record breaking show.

70 THE ART OF AFRICA

BY BONHAMS

TRAVEL

26 COVERING THE CONTINENTS: AFRICA – RWANDA Mention Rwanda and two things normally spring to mind: magical mountain gorillas and the horrific genocide 25 years ago that ravaged the country.

34 PROUDLY POLISH Iconic ‘Raffles Europejski’ Combines Past and Present in Warsaw, the proud capital of Poland.

52 T AKE TIME TO EXPLORE THE DIVERSITY AND SPLENDOUR OF TURKEY Turkey is one of the most diverse countries with each city offering its own rich culture.

96 R EASONS TO GO TO GLORIOUS GREECE

Greece is situated south east of Europe, at the meeting point of three continents; Europe, Asia and Africa.

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

40 H IS ROYAL HIGHNESS CROWN PRINCE ALEXANDER KARADJORDJEVIC OF SERBIA

BUSINESS PROFILE

44 CLOUD4WI SUPPORTING LUXURY BRANDS WITH DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION Digital Vortex, Big Data, AI, Digitalisation and Smart Cities are some of the very techbuzz-words which these days cross top businesses and global brands.

62 VALUABLE VINTAGE MOTORBIKES PROVE THERE IS MORE TO THEM THAN A RIDE Prices for rare motorbikes are continually on the rise, making vintage motorbike collections attractive.

110 THE CARIBBEAN ISLAND OF NEVIS KNOWS ALL ABOUT MANGOES

Annually, Nevis plays host to

the most memorable mango

festival globally.

ADVENTURES IN SPORT

BOOK REVIEW

82 THERE’S NO BUSINESS LIKE THE GOLF BUSINESS

Golf and business have enjoyed

a happy union for many decades.

GOOD BOOKS – BOOK REVIEW

ADVENTURES IN FASHION

90 M AKE-UP HAS A HISTORY YOU COULDN’T MAKE UP… The early cosmetics industry since the early 20th century has been dominated by a few multi-national corporations.

CUISINE SCENE

104 DELICIOUS DATES

The story of dates, dates back a long way in history, cited in religious tomes from the bible to the Quran.

118 The Wisdom Paradox Elkhonon Goldberg 119 The Death of Truth Michiko Kakutani 120 GO WHERE

THE ACTION IS

No matter what month it is, somewhere around the world there is an event not to be missed, here are a few to tempt you to travel…

122 WHO’S READING

FIFTH CHUKKER

UNICEF MESSAGE It is important to reiterate the fact that partnership has proven to be one of the best approach and strategy to collectively promote the wellbeing of children. Therefore, UNICEF private sector partnership is key in our efforts towards expanding strategic collaboration to deliver more quality results for children in Nigeria.

Worthy to note is the growing and vibrant private sector partnership between UNICEF, Access Bank and Fifthchukker, thus, increasingly achieving tangible results and impacting on children in greatest need.

Let me once again, appreciate the collective strategic and upholding of equity towards focusing on the education of children whom the majority are orphans and vulnerable children. We must always remember that education is the way to ensure providing every child the opportunity to live, thrive and develop to his or her full potential. The opportunities this partnership has brought in the lives of many Nigerian children is visible, measurable and very encouraging.

Children issues are varied, wide and enormous. Therefore, to effectively and efficiently promote the rights of children, UNICEF works with a wide range of development partners, government, individuals, businesses, foundations and civil society organizations to help children realize their full potential. In Nigeria, UNICEF supports the government of Nigeria and its partners to protect the rights of all children across the country and help Nigeria achieve the Sustainable Development Goals.

This partnership has over the past twelve years helped UNICEF to support approximately over 30,000 orphans and vulnerable children in several positive approaches that directly improve the quality of lives of the children benefiting from this partnership. We could see the outcome in the increased enrolment, retention and completion rate of children.

The commitment and contribution of Nigerians in diaspora in the United Kingdom and other places at the 2018 UK Event in London was unprecedented. Funds raised are already being utilized to build a new school to accommodate the increasing population of pupils at Maraban Jos, in Kaduna. It is delighting to mention the acknowledgement of Kaduna State government of the fruition of this partnership and readiness to boost the efforts in favour of children.

Moving forward, we strongly recommend for this partnership to reach out to hard to reach communities in Kaduna state towards ensuring the principle of all children all rights everywhere, always. UNICEF is proud to partner with the Government of Nigeria and I would like to once again reiterate our firm commitment to provide continued support in the areas of health, nutrition, water, sanitation, education and social inclusion towards achieving the SDGs in 2030.

Considering the impact of these collaborative efforts, on behalf of UNICEF, I would like to reaffirm our commitment to take this partnership to greater scale, focusing on equity and to make education as the central theme, more specifically on girl’s education, and generally to promote the rights of children.

Let me use this opportunity to express our profound gratitude to Access Bank and Fifthchukker for coming together to invest in children and to our donors and partners for providing funds and other forms of support to our work in Nigeria. I place on record, our gratitude to the Kaduna State Government for the support which continues to strengthen our work for children and women in the state. I urge us all to continue to invest in children as a task towards building a sustainable future. Together, we can support every child to achieve greatness!

Mohamed Malick Fall, Representative, UNICEF Nigeria

EDITOR’S LETTER

The 14th edition of Fifth Chukker coincides with the beginning of spring; a time when the weather heats up a notch and thoughts turn to leisure and looking for holiday locations.

Within, you will find a host of inspiration for both. Learn why Warsaw makes for the perfect luxury break; the reasons why Rwanda is the place to see the gentle giants that are gorillas; what makes Turkey one of the most diverse destinations to visit and why the Greek mountains make for a memorable trip.

Our regular ‘Cuisine Scene’ section this time features dates; delving into the sticky sweet fruits’ past and present and also mangoes, where you can read all about the beautiful Caribbean island of Nevis and its much loved annual mango bonanza.

Some say nothing is more freeing than travelling by bike - the ‘Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride’ is a group of dapper gentle folk riding in unison to raise money for worthy causes such as mental health and prostate cancer; read all about it inside.

As readers will know by now, Fifth Chukker goes hand in hand with altruism and one of their latest initiatives, along with Access Bank and UNICEF was raising capital to build a much-needed school in north Nigeria. Guests at the Guards Polo Club last year enjoyed first-rate polo, deluxe dining, as well as an art auction run by Bonhams which all aided in the realisation of the school, set to open this month. The arts are

Spring; a time when the weather heats up a notch and thoughts turn to leisure and looking for holiday locations

never neglected in our editions; peruse the pages to catch up on the latest happenings at the annual and hugely popular Art X exhibition, as well as insight into Bonhams African Art, showcasing some beautiful and rare pieces. ‘Adventures in Sport’ this time plays homage to the game of golf, exploring why and how it dominates the lives of some of the most prominent company directors globally. For the ladies and even for inquisitive men, our make-up feature promises to ignite intrigue into the business of make-up and longevity of lipstick; a beauty statement that doesn’t look like it will ever end. Our business feature turns to technology, evaluating the evidence of this yearon-year growing sector and why shopping malls are embracing it more than ever. The importance of taking screen breaks however is evident, with professionals telling us constantly the importance of sleep for productivity and ‘switching off’ before bedtime, so why not curl up with one of our suggested books, in the book review section…

YASEMEN KANER-WHITE Editor yasemen@parmuto.com

Editor - YASEMEN KANER-WHITE Editorial Team - FRANCESCO FIORILLA, YUSUF SAAB Contributors - YASEMEN KANER-WHITE, FRANCES K. WHITE, DAN AMIS, SUE WATT, ROSS BIDDISCOMBE, LILBY SKAZ Photography - IMAGES OF POLO, KLEARPICS, GABOR SZANTAI, FRANCESCO FIORILLA & THE ART OF POLO additional contributors credited Design - TONI BARRINGTON, THE MAGAZINE PRODUCTION COMPANY www.magazineproduction.com Cover image: Mountain Gorilla - Credit Will Whitford

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POLO PEOPLE

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POLO PEOPLE

ACCESS BANK & FIFTH CHUKKER UNICEF CHARITY SHIELD A significant new school project reinforces the Charity Shield as a premier sports charity event in Nigeria Lilby Skaz

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ast summer at Guards Polo Club, England, the Fifth Chukker Access Bank Polo Day to benefit UNICEF Nigeria raised a British sports charity record of $2.2m to build more than 60 classroom blocks in deprived school communities in Kaduna state some of which have the lowest socioeconomic indices and ‘quality of life’ conditions in Nigeria.

More than 300 elite guests from around the world, including HRH The Emir of Kano graced the event where a further N11m was stumped up for school equipment upgrade at an auction of Contemporary African Art by Bonhams.

The day was rounded off with two polo matches featuring an exciting roster of top-level international players including world No.1 Adolfo Cambiaso and his La Dolfina teammates, who played alongside their Nigerian patrons for the high-goal Emir of Kano cup and the medium-goal charity shield.

A major beneficiary of this Fifth Chukker Access Bank corporate social responsibility initiative has been the Maraban Jos Public Primary School, situated at a strong catchment community closest to Fifth Chukker’s Kangimi Resort. Since 2013 the school has received continuous intervention/support from the Fifth Chukker/Access Bank partnership under the auspices of UNICEF. This intervention has resulted in the schools general improvement and a massive increase in pupils’ enrolment to more than 12,500.

This inevitably has stretched capacities hence the pressing need for enhanced teaching, learning and recreational facilities.

With the massive upgrade and expansion of the primary school at a brand new site inside the Kangimi resorts, the accelerated construction schedule for the project means the first phase of 30 blocks comprising 60 classrooms among other facilities were due by March 2019.

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Herbert Wigwe and Manual Rosini with pupils of the Maraban-Jos Primary School

Kaduna First Lady Ummi Elrufai Counselling kids at Fifth Chukker

Adamu Atta and Herbert Wigwe receive a N10million school endowment from Mrs Rasna Mangharam

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Kaduna state Governor Nasir el Rufai has also weighed in with a pledge of immediate counterpart funding for additional 30 classroom blocks through the Kaduna State Universal Basic Education (SUBEB) when Fifth Chukker founder Adamu Atta and Access Bank CEO Herbert Wigwe called on him with representatives of UNICEF, the project coordinators. El Rufai explained to the visitors that while the Government could never muster the resources to lift the entire education infrastructure in the state, it was always ready and willing to offer maximum support to proactive private initiatives such as by Fifth Chukker and Access Bank.

The new school project also offers exciting new opportunities in contemporary urban/rural school design where spacious, flexible, affordable, and environment friendly structures are the mode. Consultant Architects ECAD, Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

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School Construction site

New School layout discussion Adamu Atta inspecting construction work at the school site

Presentation of the school project to Kaduna state governor

Lord Lugard in Lagos on Amalgamation day, January 1 1914

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working with Fifth Chukker have masterly rendered a perfect integration of form, functionality and utility.

The design not only provides for a better learning and teaching space, but also extends the educational environment beyond the four walls of the classroom to recreational outdoor spaces such as a sports centre complete with basketball and tennis courts, as well a football field and athletics track.

When commissioned the new facility will substantially minimize the congestion in the old school and allow for more children in the local area to have access to a decent and fun primary school education.

Speaking at the new school campus Adamu Atta summed up this push for up-scaling of capacities: “We not only believe that all children have the right to go to school, the true purpose of this project is to show that we must light a candle and be a part of a bigger solution because we need all of us to make quality education possible for children of every background.�

The Fifth Chukker/Access Bank/UNICEF partnership also addresses the needs of the children right at home, helping parents and care givers to earn a secure living though soft finance, skills acquisition and business machines. It also partners and empowers local communities to value education, take charge of their schools and tackle discrimination against girls and marginalised children so

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that no child is left behind. This helps the schools to be sustainable and assures their success for a long time to come.

More significantly, a common feedback from the communities is that school enrollment is up and truancy/drop-out rate is down. This means many more children and their parents are consciously opting to sidestep all those imponderables, complexities and cautionary tales associated with a life without an education.

UNICEF Nigeria Country Representative Mohammed Malick Fall appreciates the scope of the problem he faces: “Education has the power to transform society but too many Nigerian children are out of school especially in the Northern region and this imbalance with the rest of the country needs to be bridged�. It may be a bridge too far but Fifth Chukker, Access Bank and UNICEF are motivated to gap-up the deficit one classroom block at a time. To further raise awareness and

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generate even more funds for UNICEF projects, more than N5million was also raised from a Charity Shield art exhibition at Fifth Chukker held June 18th - 24th. Several artists presented their artworks for the exhibition titled ‘Sustaining the future through art’ and curated by Lagos-based Signature-Beyond Gallery Paintings such as Durbar Charge by John Oyedemi and mixed media pieces including Gate to the Cattle Ranch by Bruce Onabrapkeya and Female Figures by Yakubu Kareem were on display. Choix Okereafor’s Goje Player in fibre glass and Dotun Popoola’s Boer Boel in scrap metal were also prominent attractions as guests snapped up most of the works. Fifth Chukker also inspired some more curiosity and adventure with an international food experience to top off the Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

Charity Shield extravaganza. The anticipation of tasting something for the first time and only trusting their instincts that it will be good was an irresistible pull for the several intercontinental guests.

Chefs from Argentina, Ethiopia, South Africa, Senegal, Ghana and Nigeria laid on culinary delights to polish off each typical tournament day of polo and other recreational activities. The Ethiopian presentation was particularly immersive as amplified by its music, costume and traditional settings recreated in the Club House As a major highlight of the tournament, the food experience was an unforgettable thrill as aficionados not only consumed the food, but also the social and cultural significance of it at the same time.

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CHILDREN’S DAY

CHILDREN’S DAY GIVING BACK Barbara Patricia Zingg

Aligning with the UNICEF Children’s Day celebration theme of “Creating safe spaces for children: our collective responsibility”, Fifth Chukker brought together more than 200 children from diverse backgrounds and institutions to celebrate The UNICEF World Children’s day at its Kangimi resorts. It was a super exciting event featuring several interactive and immersive activities that engaged the children both for fun and educational experiences.

She also educated them on how they can become eco entrepreneurs through recycling and repurposing recyclables in their communities.

Environmental Artist and activist Ifesinachi Nwanyanwu, famous for his Waste Art Projects, paced the children with an art class to create flowers and objects with waste plastic drinking water bottles.

The children also got creative with their paint brushes and acrylic colours.

Courtesy of Grand Square Supermarket Abuja, children donned baking hats and aprons for a ‘muffins’ master class curated by the company’s Master Baker. Grand Square also sponsored all the food with freshly made special sandwiches, fruit sticks and ice cream.

Maltina sponsored the drinks that complemented all of the energy and nutrition provisions for the day.

Artist Hafsat of Kweyve Textile Design guided the children in T-Shirt painting and drawing while Adamu Beading company in Kano introduced sessions in beading and making simple necklaces and baskets, The Leewey Dance Academy Choreography class also taught the children dance steps with rhythmic music.

Several professional skill volunteers and influencers also offered mentoring sessions as well as DIY craft ideas and applications.

Environmental enthusiast of the anti-litter Campaign, “Stop, Don’t Drop” Adiza Ujo sensitised the children on the negative impacts of littering the environment and on human health.

Rounding off the day was an educational Horse Welfare Corner run

by Fifth Chukker Equestrian Academy in partnership with Diamond Equine Network Foundation encouraging children to get to know and touch a horse for the first time. The academy also offered Horse Pony Rides that brought lots of smiles to the children.

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Lilby Skaz

Art X Lagos – West Africa’s Prime Art Fair splashes up another record-breaking show

ART X

S

tyle heavy hitters Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar have all batted for Art X Lagos, both hyping it as “The Frieze of West Africa,” the subregional version of Amanda Sharp and Matthew Slotover’s iconic international contemporary art series in London, New York and Los Angeles.

Tokini Peterside’s third and most impactful edition of Art X Lagos welcomed visitors from across the globe to experience the cutting edge of contemporary African art by 18 of the most established and exciting African contemporary art galleries, who exhibited 56 artists from the continent and the diaspora, including the works of Joy Labinjo, Cyrus Kabiru, Zanele Muholi, Sokari Douglas Camp CBE, Ranti Bam, and Amadou Sanogo.

A highlight of the exhibition included the first public display of Nigeria’s most important masterpiece; Ben Enwonwu’s painting ‘Tutu’. The portrait depicts the Nigerian princess Adetutu Ademiluyi of Ile-Ife. The fair was opened by fellow kinsman, His Highness the Ooni of Ife, which carried even greater cultural and historical significance.

Keynote artist Yinka Shonibare MBE, with his second ever solo exhibition in his home country, gave the keynote talk where he addressed his hopes for the future of art tourism in Africa: “Traffic for many years has always been Africa going to the West and I think it’s about time the West came to Africa”. Shonibare also revealed he is in the process of building an international residency space in Lagos.

Royal Presence (L-R) Atedo Peterside, Tokini Peterside, HRH Ooni of Ife, Olori Naomi Ogunwusi, Access bank CEO Herbert Wigwe

Tutu

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ART X

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ART X

The ART X Talks, curated by Miss la Libsekal, featured a series of exciting and engaging talks from key stakeholders in Africa’s art economy.

Some Art X Interactive Projects, curated by A Whitespace Creative Agency featured experiential platforms influenced by the exhilarating essence of Lagos. Olalekan Jeyifous and Wale Lawal created a virtual reality installation, Mad Horse City, which explores a futuristic imagination of Lagos in the year 2115. Lagos Drawings is an Interactive Installation

by Karo Akpokiere which combines digital technology, perceptible sounds and visual illustrations inspired by Lagos Textures.

Making a welcome return was Art X Live, the robust live art and music performance that featured some of Africa’s most talented rising artists.

Art X Talks

Art X Live

Mad Horse City

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ART X

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ART X

The Art X Prize, sponsored by Access Bank was won by Bolatito Aderemi-Ibitola, who emerged as after a rigorous selection process. She received a grant and presented her solo project, ‘Scraps from Mama’s Floor’ at the fair.

Speaking at the closing, Art X founder Tokini Peterside thanked all the sponsors, the advisory board and members of the public who have made ART X Lagos the success it has become: “We are so grateful to Access Bank for the loan of Ben Enwonwu’s masterpiece “Tutu”, which made art history this weekend as ART X Lagos marked the first public display of the Mona Lisa of Africa in 43 years. We also thank all our sponsors, exhibitors, artists and the general public for your support. This edition has been a phenomenal success due to your participation and the passion that you have brought into the experience. The future is incredibly bright, and we are on course to deliver on our mission – to magnify the patronage of African artists across the continent, and to inspire the future generations of African artists.”

Yinka Shonibare

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Africa

RWANDA Sue Watt

Sunrise view from Bisate. ©Dana Allen

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Mountain Gorilla ŠDavid Crookes

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Young Mountain Gorilla ©Caroline Cuthbert

Diana Fossey Established her Research Centre at Karisoke ©Dana Allen

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ention Rwanda and two things normally spring to mind: magical mountain gorillas and the horrific genocide 25 years ago that ravaged the country.

Today, the so-called “Land of a Thousand Hills” crammed with lush knolls, peaks, lakes and valleys, is one of Africa’s rising stars.

There’s more to this tiny, land-locked nation than great apes and a desperately tragic past. Think a pristine capital city of gleaming skyscrapers and dignified memorials; a Big Five safari in a glorious national park; hiking trails and chimp tracking in dense rainforest; and kayaking or jet-skiing on Africa’s sixth largest lake. Today’s Rwanda is renowned for its incredible reconciliation and regeneration and has reinvented itself beyond all recognition, but gorillas are still the stars.

GORILLAS IN OUR MIDST

Like a first love, you never forget the very first gorilla you set eyes on.

Mine was called Kurira. In Kinyarwanda, his name means to weep – apparently, he cried a lot as a baby. Now a strapping silverback, the Big Daddy of the twenty-strong Susa group swaggered casually in my direction and with hands the size of baseball gloves delicately picked blackberries from the bush beside me.

Earlier that morning, at Volcanoes National Park HQ in Kinigi village, we were divided into groups of eight, the maximum allowed to track each gorilla family, then had a detailed briefing on tracking etiquette. When we reached our gorillas, we’d have just one precious hour with them. While in their company, we mustn’t point or make loud noises (both signs of aggression). We couldn’t eat or drink, nor go to the toilet near them (spreading our unwelcome germs).

However tempting, we must never touch them – although they seem calm, they’re still wild animals. And we should keep a clear seven metres distance between them and us.

No one had told Kurira this. He came closer, engrossed in his blackberry selection. It was my turn to cry now, not from fear but from the sheer emotion of being so close to this humbling gentle giant. I stepped away nervously. I watched his gnarled leathery fingers picking the berries and was mesmerised by his contemplative, human-like expression and soulful brown eyes as he savoured each one.

This was my unforgettable reward after our gruelling five-hour hike on steep, muddy hills to reach the Susa group. They roam high up Mount Karisimbi, hence they’re the most challenging of the ten groups available for tracking in Rwanda.

In the 1970s and 80s, the Susa group was studied by famous primatologist Dian Fossey, who brought the plight of mountain Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

Trekkers’ Briefing at Volcanoes National Park ©Dana Allen

Silverback Gorilla ©Russel Friedman

Trekking Through Community Land ©Dana Allen

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gorillas into the public spotlight. Then, under threat from habitat loss, extensive poaching and the crossfire of civil wars, just 250 survived in the world, living in the rainforests of western Uganda’s Bwindi National Park and the towering Virunga Mountains spanning Rwanda’s Volcanoes NP, southern Uganda and DR Congo. Today, in Africa’s greatest conservation success story, they number around 1000.

Visitors can take a tour of the Karisoke Research Centre initially set up by Dian Fossey. This year sees the start of an exciting new phase for Karisoke, thanks to Ellen DeGeneres and her wife Portia de Rossi, who set up the Ellen Degeneres Wildlife Fund in honour of the US celebrity’s 60th birthday. Through this, they are building a new campus for Karisoke, on 11 acres of land adjacent to the park, called the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund. It’s planned for completion in 2021 and will be home to hi-tech laboratories and classrooms for future conservationists and a state-of-the-art exhibition for tourists and local communities.

Gorilla tourism is a double-edged sword: it simultaneously makes these beautiful primates more vulnerable through the risk of infection but also helps to protect them. Sharing 98% of human DNA, gorillas can die from our diseases. Even our common cold could kill them, hence no one with an infectious illness is allowed to track them.

Yet, the US$1500 permit fees for these encounters help fund vital conservation. And this has been their lifeline.

Tree Planting at Bisate ©Dana Allen

Dian Fossey is Buried Alongside the Gravesite of her Beloved Gorillas ©Dana Allen

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Dian Fossey’s Tomb at Karisoke ©Dana Allen

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Golden Monkey Trek ©Dana Allen Giant Lobelia Plant ©Dana Allen

Habitat Restoration at Bisate ©Dana Allen

Land of a Thousand Hills ©Dana Allen Tree Nursery Propagates Saplings for the Lodge ©Dana Allen

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It’s been a lifeline for Rwanda’s people too.

Just a two-hour drive from the capital Kigali, gorillas were the draw for tourists returning here after the genocide, kickstarting the local economy. We stayed at the beautiful Volcanoes Safaris’ Virunga Lodge. Working closely with local people, it was the first to open when tourism started. Now an award-winning luxury lodge, it has beguiling views over the Park’s lakes and imposing volcanoes. With a new emphasis on high-cost, low-impact tourism, Musanze, the centre for gorilla tracking, is thriving with luxury lodges focusing on communities and conservation. They include Bisate, owned by Wilderness Safaris, which opened in 2018 and One&Only’s Gorilla’s Nest launching later this year.

LAKE KIVU

The shores of glorious Lake Kivu are Rwanda’s beaches. The relaxed lakeside towns of Gisenyi and Kibuye are only two-three hours’ drive south from Kigali or Musanze, and beckon well-heeled city dwellers for weekend breaks.

We strolled on the beach, had lunch at a waterside bar to a soundtrack of mellow jazz and just chilled, watching people jet-skiing, kayaking, and playing beach volleyball beside the tropical gardens of our hotel, Lake Kivu Serena.

A Mother and Child, Titus Group © David Crookes

Bisate Lodge Interior ©Dana Allen

NYUNGWE FOREST NATIONAL PARK

This vast fairy-tale forest is a four-hour drive south from Gisenyi or a half-hour flight from Kigali. With over 130km of hiking trails, you’re immersed in lush nature here. I felt giddy as I swayed gently on East Africa’s highest canopy walk, Uwinka Overlook, teetering some 50 metres high on a steel suspension bridge with

The Rwenzori Double-Collared Sunbird © Dana Allen

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Bisate Forest Villa Exterior ©Dana Allen

Exploring the Cave at Bisate © Dana Allen

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Children Gather for their CITW Eco-Club ©Dana Allen

the forest like a field of giant broccoli below. A primate paradise, it’s home to 13 different species and you can track chimpanzees, colobus monkeys and grey mangabeys. A new uber-luxury lodge, the One&Only Nyungwe House opened here in October.

Community Visit at Bisate ©Dana Allen

AKAGERA NATIONAL PARK

One of my favourite parks in Africa, Akagera’s scenic beauty alone merits a visit: imagine England’s Lake District crossed with a mini-Serengeti. Two hours drive from Kigali, it hugs Rwanda’s north-eastern border. Wildlife here was decimated when thousands of refugees returned to Rwanda following the genocide, moving into Akagera. Now managed by conservation NGO African Parks, Akagera’s resurgence has been phenomenal.

Lions and rhinos have been translocated here and it’s a thriving Big Five destination. We stayed at the tranquil Ruzizi Lodge on the shores of Lake Ihema. The new luxury Wilderness camp Magashi and Mantis’ Akagera Game Lodge, will both open mid-2019.

VOLCANOES SAFARIS VIRUNGA LODGE

KIGALI

WILDERNESS BISATE LODGE AND MAGASHI CAMP

Nowhere is Rwanda’s regeneration more apparent than in its capital, Kigali. The spotlessly clean city has gleaming new skyscrapers and a distinctive, dome-shaped US$300 million convention centre with five-star hotels like Radisson Blu, Marriott and Serena. For a more personal experience, stay at the luxury Retreat by Heaven boutique hotel in Kiyovu, with superb fine dining, a mix of African and International cuisine, in its poolside restaurant, Fusion. Head to the roof-top bar in downtown Ubumwe Grande Hotel for cocktails and impressive views of this hilly city. And explore the Nyamirambo district, Kigali’s oldest quarter, for a true African vibe and lively local bars.

The capital pays dignified homage to the past. Kigali Genocide Memorial recounts the tragic events of 1994, the country’s darkest days. Thought-provoking and emotional, with family photographs of ordinary people killed in extraordinary circumstances, I’ve never left here with dry eyes. To visit the memorial is to understand the history behind the horror of the genocide and to appreciate just how far this country has come over the past 25 years.

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https://volcanoessafaris.com/virunga-lodge-rwanda/ https://wilderness-safaris.com PERMITS FOR TRACKING GORILLAS

http://rwandatourism.com/things-to-do/gorilla-tracking/#tab-1-2 DIAN FOSSEY GORILLA FUND INTERNATIONAL

https://gorillafund.org/who-we-are/faq-on-ellen-degeneres-campus/ THE ELLEN DEGENERES WILDLIFE FUND

https://theellenfund.org SERENA HOTELS (KIGALI AND LAKE KIVU)

https://www.serenahotels.com/ ONE&ONLY NYUNGWE HOUSE

https://www.oneandonlyresorts.com/one-and-only-nyungwe-house-rwanda# MANTIS AKAGERA GAME LODGE

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Proudly Polish.

RAFFLES EUROPEJSKI Combines Past and Present in Warsaw Yasemen Kaner-White

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arsaw is the proud capital of Poland and stands apart from fellow Polish cities; for a start it is more diverse and not solely centered on an old market square. The eclectic mix of architecture including restored Gothic and contemporary glass and steel, is of course due to its tempestuous past; only just surviving all that WWII threw at it. The city is known for both its well-priced high standard assorted eateries as well as an upbeat nightlife, impressive museums and of course - Chopin. Interestingly the heart of the famous Polish composer, upon his request, is buried in a church in Warsaw, just one of

the many things you will learn on readily available Warsaw walking tours. You will find benches with buttons to press that play his music sprawled across the city. Warsaw based ‘Atelier Amaro’ was the first restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star in Poland and has kept it ever since. Three years later another recommended restaurant serving a clever culinary take on traditional Polish dishes; ‘Senses’ was also awarded a Michelin star. For those who like to shop for familiar international opulent brands, Plac Trzech Krzyży is the street to head to, as is the famous Vitkac Department Store. With the opening of ‘Raffles Europejski Warsaw’ hotel in June last year – a rejuvenation of the longstanding Europejski

Raffles Europejski Warsaw Facade

POLO PEOPLE

Raffles Europejski Warsaw Lobby Front Desk

Raffles Europejski Warsaw Long Bar

Raffles Europejski Warsaw Bathroom

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Raffles Europejski Warsaw Bedroom Desk

(1857) hotel, now there is even more glamour to this already refined city. Along with the February 2018 launch of Poland’s first ever edition of Vogue magazine, Warsaw is certainly embracing ‘luxury’ now more than ever. Their first famous guests were the Rolling Stones one month after they opened, who had originally stayed in the same hotel when it was simply named ‘Europejski’ during their concert in 1967. Major businesses are continuing to be attracted to set up shop, with JP Morgan and Standard Chartered Global Business Service having opened their offices in Warsaw last year. Now that Polish Airlines have introduced a direct flight between London City Airport and Warsaw in January this year, there has been an even bigger increase in both business travellers and tourists making their way to this charismatic city. If you are going to Warsaw next month, don’t miss ‘Night of Museums’ on May the 18th; this annual event is the one night of the year that many museums will be open as late as 2am, offering refreshments and a chance to see areas usually closed to the public.

When visiting however, the place to stay is most definitely newly opened ‘Raffles Europejski’. Situated in the prestigious Royal Route. It is a few minutes walk from everywhere you would want to go; the cobbled streets of the Old Town dotted with traditional places to dine, the 19th century Polish National Opera House and Presidential Palace, for example. Raffles hotels, dating back as a luxury brand from 1887 with their first hotel in Singapore, are known to take inspiration from their settings, which Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

PROPERTY DEVELOPMENT

Raffles Europejski Warsaw Singapore Sling

Raffles Europejski Warsaw Deluxe Room

determines the interior design of each hotel, ‘Raffles Europejski’ is no different. The neo-renaissance palace was built by Enrico Marconi in 1857 and soon became the city’s creative hub, attracting writers, poets and artists to dine and stay. In the beginning Polish artists such as Józef Chełmoƒski and Stanisław Witkiewicz had their studios there. The newly refurbished hotel plays homage to its artistic past with countless art pieces dotted throughout and suites named after prominent artists who checked in or had a studio. Each room has different art pieces, so recurring guests have a different view. You can even book a complimentary art tour with the custodian of the collection around the hotel, which is popular to guests and outsiders to learn more about Poland’s rich cultural background, right up to modern day local art. Carefully selected works from 120 contemporary Polish artists are showcased alongside much older pieces amounting to roughly 500 works, taking 4 years to build, create a contrasted ‘art exhibition’ not found elsewhere and a privileged joy to walk around.

Even a visit to the spa comes with a touch of art – a 1961 mosaic by Krystyna Kozlowska hangs in the entrance.

A visit to ‘Raffles Europejski’ is now more so than ever, a standard addition to any Warsaw tourist list. The imposing facade is original and the building is of much import to locals; almost everyone has a personal nostalgic memory whether of their first date, taking their first child or having tea with their own parents. Even before the collaboration with Raffles, it has always been the most prestigious hotel in Warsaw and renowned the Lourse café known to have queues into the street waiting for the best desserts in town, found on the ground floor, has always been a resident in the hotel for guests to enjoy. You will find hand painted chocolates with unusual fillings for example sesame & parmesan (surprisingly good!) and an array of signature cakes including the tempting honey cake, chocolate cheesecake with local red berry jam and original recipes such as the Spanish tart. Anyone who knows Raffles hotels will have heard about the ‘Singapore Sling’ created in 1915, naturally ‘Raffles Europejski’ has kept this tradition and I’d suggest you sip on yours in their fabulous Humidor room Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

Raffles Europejski Warsaw Lobby

Europejski Grill Restauracja

NR 1 MARZEC 2018

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PROPERTY DEVELOPMENT

Raffles Europejski Warsaw

Adam Mickiewicz Monument, Warsaw

Panoramic View of Warsaw

The Mermaid Statue at Warsaw’s Old Town Square

A Park in Warsaw

clad with leather chairs to lounge in as well as beautiful artwork and an eye catching walk-in humidor where people can rent a locker to keep their favourite cigars, or indeed buy one from the hand selected assortment available. The Warsaw Sling using homemade liquor and cherry bitters, is in keeping with the original which was made for ladies who according to etiquette at the time could not drink alcohol in public, instead the clear alcohol (gin) was disguised with pink juices; looking like a girlie non-alcohol fruit punch, naturally you can ask for a non-alcoholic one too. If you like trying new tipples, go for the vodka made specifically for the hotel, distilled twice instead of the standard three times, retaining the essence of the potato. The Singaporean theme continues in the high ceiling Long Bar flooded with light, where you can order Singaporean street food snacks.

Executive Chef BeĂąat Alonso brings with him his heritage of Basque cuisine to the popular Europejski Grill equally

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Church of the Holy Spirit in Warsaw, Old Town

Krakowskie Przedmiescie- the Historic Street in Warsaw

Warsaw Uprising Monument

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PROPERTY DEVELOPMENT

Raffles Europejski Warsaw

Chlodnik, Cold Beet Soup

Raffles Europejski Warsaw

Raffles Europejski Warsaw

Raffles Europejski Warsaw

‘screaming’ Spain with decorative blue and white plates along the walls. Here you can sample Polish gastronomy at its best with dishes such as an amuse bouche of roasted beetroot, goose fillet and sour cream; homemade sourdough bread with buttermilk butter and sea salt; traditional egg and pork soups; succulent dover sole and scallops and highly recommended - burnt butter ice cream dessert.

You would be forgiven for not wanting to eat elsewhere, however, it is worth seeking out a ‘Bar Mleczny’, (milk bar), set up by government; they serve authentic inexpensive Polish food. Named milk bars, as milk was the easiest thing to get after the war, expect filled dumplings, meat and veg soups and more - certainly a traditional experience to be had. Just as a mermaid, the symbol of Warsaw, is ethereal, beautiful and intriguing, as is the city itself… www.raffles.com/warsaw/ Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

Raffles Europejski Warsaw - Humidor Room

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EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS Crown Prince Alexander Karadjordjevic of Serbia

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EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

You lived in England for a good many years, what do you think England has that Serbia doesn’t and vice versa?

Both have good people and a lot of history, and beautiful places to visit The United Kingdom has benefitted from a market economy and social services. We in Serbia only introduced a market economy relatively recently and our social service have suffered a lot. Also, the United Kingdom has an infrastructure and we in Serbia have suffered very much from a destroyed unfractured, that we have been rebuilding.

Our Serbian people are very hospitable, warm and look very much forward to receiving visitors from the United Kingdom, we know they will enjoy our country very much.

Serbia is particularly investable right now, what do you think draws investors?

Serbia has very good experts, intelligent and hardworking people, a good climate and nature and all that together makes a perfect market for new investments and business.

What is your favourite Serbian dish? Is this your overall favourite dish also?

I cannot easily decide whether it is “sarma” or grill. We have very good quality meat in Serbia and maybe more important – a lot of tricks and secrets for a perfect preparation. We also have very nice organic vegetables and fruit.

What do you feel characterises a typical Serbian, what qualities would they stereotypically have?

Many people would say the Serbian people are strong and brave, which I totally agree and I’m adding high intelligence and great sense of humour.

Do you have a favourite place to visit in Serbia?

It is Oplenac, a hill in town called Topola, where St. George’s Church and a magnificent Mausoleum of the Royal Family are located. It is a beautiful place with spectacular nature and deepest memories and emotions – all in one place.

Globally old traditions are dwindling, what Serbian traditions are you seeing slowly becoming less commonplace?

Unfortunately, many beautiful national traditions are abandoned or forgotten, they have been kept only in some rural areas, but that is the price of modern times. I would like to see that some traditions regarding wedding days for example are kept, since things like that are the ones which make subtle differences in the beauty of different cultures.

What do you do to relax?

I like to spend free time in the Royal library reading interesting books or simply to take a walk with my wife throughout the Royal Compound Do you have any hobbies?

New technologies! I would say I’m a passionate collector and user of new gadgets, computer equipment and mobile applications.

The Royal Palace has an impressive book collection, are they all inherited or do you enjoying adding to the collection?

It is quite impressive and I’m so grateful for having a chance to be surrounded by such a treasure of knowledge. Yes, the major part has been inherited, those were collected by my father King Peter II and grandfather King Alexander I, but I kept that passion for books so I’m constantly adding books to the collection. Wherever I travel I try to bring home one book at least.

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The art throughout the Royal Palace is fabulous and varied; do you have a favourite artwork?

The most impressive one for me is definitely “Three Monks – Solitude” painting by Nicolas Poussin, but the ones which make me emotional and nostalgic are portrait of my grandfather King Alexander I by our famous artist Paja Jovanovic, as well as the only preserved sculpture made by my grandmother Queen Maria – “The Knight in Contemplation”.

Do you as a family spend a lot of time together?

Unfortunately, not so much as we would like to. We all travel a lot, my wife and I especially due to a lot humanitarian events abroad, so we have an agreement that, no matter what obligations, get together on important family occasions such as Slava (Serbian family saint day – the celebration of the Family Saint Patron’s Day), birthdays, weddings, christenings and similar.

Where do you like to holiday?

Besides Serbia which is my favourite place for both everyday life and holidays, I like spending holidays in Greece where my wife Crown Princess Katherine was born (Athens) and I also have roots and memories: my grandfather was a Greek King – HM King Alexander of the Hellenes, my mother HM Queen Alexandra of Yugoslavia was also born in Athens and my grandmother was HRH Princess Aspasia of Greece (née Aspasia Manos). And also, His Majesty King Constantine of the Hellenes was our best man at our wedding in London on 21 September 1985.

You and your wife are known to be altruistic, with charities, for example ‘Lifeline’ whose Patron is your wife Crown Princesses Katherine, are you both planning any more initiatives or developments within your chartable work?

Luckily, we always have many plans and projects. When it comes to my Foundation for Education and Culture, I am proud that we are going to organise once again the traditional reception for more than 600 best high school students from Serbia and Republika Srpska at the White Palace on 18 June and that would be the 18th time in a row. In addition, we have awarded numerous scholarships, both in the field of information technologies, as well as for various foreign academies and schools. I am also very proud of my wife Crown Princess Katherine who is so active as patron with her Foundations in Serbia, the United States, United Kingdom, Canada and Greece.

My wife is engaged in providing donations of medical equipment, training, help for hospitals, schools and homes for the elderly. I am so proud of the 25 years of the work of the Lifeline Humanitarian Organisation. Our diaspora and foreign friends have been so good supporting the foundations and their valuable work. Last month in London we celebrated the 25th year of Lifeline United Kingdom and were delighted our Minister of Health Mr Zlatibor Loncar came to the event that took place at Claridge’s hotel where I was born.

We will be going to Chicago in June to celebrate the 25th year of Lifeline there.

Lastly, what would you say to someone who is planning a trip to Serbia to persuade them?

Please come, we are nice people, have a good climate, great food, many cultural sites (Royal Palace and White Palace among them of course) – that is what you should expect from Serbia. And a warning for the end: be careful because you are going to come back again and again. You are always welcome!

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SERBIA Has So Much To Offer

Royal Palace Basement

S

erbia is located in the west-central Balkans. Since 2006 Serbia has been a stand-alone sovereign republic, after Montenegro voted in a referendum for independence from their union.

Serbia was formerly part of Yugoslavia, which comprised of Serbia, Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo, North Macedonia and Montenegro. Since 1402, the capital has been Belgrade, which is at a junction of both the Danube and Sava rivers.

One of the biggest parks in New Belgrade is the beautiful ‘Park of Friendship’ which has had trees planted by Queen Elizabeth II, Mrs Thatcher, Robert Mugabe, Indira Ghandi and the Rolling Stones to name a few. The architecture is eclectic in style, as you would expect from any country that has been bombed in the past, the oldest period you can see today apart from the Petrovaradin Fortress dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Architects flock to see examples of the work by famed architect Mihajlo Mitrović, including his four buildings connected by one staircase. Foreign investment is on the rise in Serbia, which is in the heart of the Balkans, particularly from China and the Middle East, with local collaborations too, for example companies such as Etihad & Serbia Airways have joined forces. Major hotel chains can be found in Serbia, with reasonably cheap land, not being in the EU means more for your money and they have good natural resources, so investors are drawn in. China has invested 1.5 billion in Serbia’s copper mines.

Government incentives such as low tax rates to set up companies and an abundance of highly qualified (university is free in Serbia) young locals to hire, means many business are locating to Serbia.

As well as ample green spaces to walk around, Serbia is famed for its fantastic festivals such as ‘FEST’; The International Film Festival ‘Lovefest’; spreading the love of music, nature and each other and the

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award winning ‘Exit’ music festival held in an ethereal 17th century fortress in Novi Sad. Tradition had it that every household would have their own vineyard, so wine is integral to Serbian lifestyle, although this tradition has dwindled visitors can still enjoy an annual wine festival. Novi Sad will be the ‘European Capital of Culture in 2021’ and definitely a place worth visiting; head to living art galleries under the Petrovaradin Fortress to peruse local paintings and have a spot of light lunch with a view nearby. Serbian food entwines flavours from its previous empires in power, including the Ottoman Empire and Austro Hungarian Empire, resulting in a unique cuisine, always using fresh seasonal produce. The first supermarket was introduced around 65 years ago and people still like to buy their naturally organic fruit and veg mainly from farmers markets. Typical dishes to try include zeljanica; delicious spinach filled flakey pastries, sarma; delicate stuffed vine leaves, ćevapi; Serbia’s answer to a succulent meat kebab, đuveč; meat and vegetable stews and anything cooked in a sač (covered pan) means tender and tasty is guaranteed. Meals are often served with an array of freshly squeezed juices, corn bread, pickled vegetables, homemade cheeses, creamy kajmak and ajvar; a sort of Serbian style ketchup but healthier and natural. The oldest restaurant is called Sremski Kutak. After dinner in Beton Hala, located on the Sava river, people often boat hop as the boats on the lake turn into clubs in the evening to dance the night away. Along with particularly good raspberries, which Serbia is famed for, nicknamed Serbia’s ‘red gold’, Serbian honey is also renowned. Visit beekeeper since 1875 - Jovan źivanović’s honey museum to sample delectable honey, some with unusual flavours such as sesame. Jovan loved his bees so gathered honey from them without the use of gas, it is no wonder he had a grand Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW - SERBIA

Novi Sad Cathedral St Rose Church

Royal Palace Courtyard

Museum of Contemporary Art, Belgrade

bespoke hive built for them to use, which can also be seen in the museum.

The Royal Palace was built between 1924 and 1929, the royal family still live there in a private apartment, but the rest of the palace can be visited by tourists between April and November, with tours every weekend. It is not uncommon to spot members of the royal family wandering around and they are known to stop and say hello. The book collection, impressive art collection and gardens alone are worth a visit.

Although it was kept a secret by the communists, many noteworthy people have stayed, including the Queen of England and celebrities such as Richard Burton. Crown Prince Alexander insists that students and pensioners in the week can visit for free. The White Palace is found in the same compound, there lays the grave of Tito’s lover Davorjanka Paunovic. Red chestnut trees were chosen to line the road to the White Palace because in May when the dark pink flowers fall to the ground it forms a natural red carpet. Other places to visit include the 25 May Museum, the birth date of Tito, exploring the life of Tito and the House of Flowers which was Tito’s Winter garden and now Josip Broz Tito (1892–1980) mausoleum. The Temple of Sava, which is similar to Hagia Sophia in Istanbul is one to take a picture in front of. Worth the climb of 80 steps is the imposing granite monument called the ‘Unknown Hero’, nearby Ada Lake is where you can see locals doing water sports, cycling, rollerblading and of course, you can join in too. Go to Kalemaden (castle town) and do as celebs do by eating traditional Serbian fare with a twist at the Fortress Restaurant. The 300 year old restaurant called Question mark ‘?’ also specialises in authentic Serbian dishes. History lovers can see at least 400,000 old objects in the National Museum, both the oldest and biggest museum in Serbia. Lastly, for a spot of luck, they say to drink from the Four Lions Mouth fountain in Sremski Karlovci. www.serbia.travel All images taken on a Leica C-Lux

Bespoke Beehive at Jovan Źivanović’s Honey Museum

Small Chapel at Dundjerski Castle with Frescoes Painted by the Famous Uroš Predić

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BUSINESS PROFILE

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BUSINESS PROFILE

DIGITAL TECHNOLOGY Supporting Luxury Brands with Digital Transformation

Digital Vortex, Big Data, AI, Digitalisation and Smart Cities are some of the very tech-buzz-words which these days cross top businesses and global brands, mostly large enterprises, in every continent of the world. It’s all about the battle to the last customer. There can’t be any ‘smart’ environment (Cities, Public Transportations, Hospitals, Colleges, Hotels, Museums, Shopping Malls, Banks, Retailers etc.) unless you create a data-driven holistic approach, which means a human-centered technological ecosystem. In the global Data Economy, IoT (Internet of things) is a Big (Data) Thing indeed, but to really make the difference, you need a better performing IoP (Internet of People) system as well, which comes with a Data-Experience Platform.The digital transformation journey of any business can only start with a customer-centered strategic plan and consistent execution. It doesn’t happen overnight, it takes time, and you need to think early, going back to the fundamentals: looking at your customer in the eyes. Let’s not forget: there is only one boss, the customer. If you don’t create the most appropriate digital ecosphere to first get to know your visitors, understand their omnichannel customer journey, you won’t be able to turn them into loyal customers and brand ambassadors; that’s data-driven decision-making to boost business growth.

How in-store analytics can transform the customer experience The expectations of customers today are higher than ever.

Shoppers demand compelling experiences when they visit brick and mortar stores, and retailers who want to stay ahead of the game must deliver relevant and personalised encounters across physical and digital channels.

Retailers who want to succeed in the years ahead should pay close attention to the living habits of Generation Z; those born between the mid-1990s and the mid-2000s. These shoppers are known for being digital natives who value creativity and individuality - they will help shape the future of retail. That’s why it is important for companies to build stores that fit their needs.

Research by Accenture found that ‘60% of Gen Z shoppers prefer to purchase in stores’ and ‘46% will check in store to get more information before making an online purchase.’

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BUSINESS PROFILE

These numbers highlight the importance of having a cohesive physical and digital strategy. While brick and mortar stores continue to play a critical role in the retail journeys of modern shoppers, digital channels are increasingly becoming an important part of the mix.

For this reason, it’s essential to have in-store analytics capabilities that can enable retailers to get to know their customers as they move from one channel to the next.

There are multiple strategies and tools retailers can use to properly and ethically to collect, manage, and leverage customer data in brick and mortar stores.

Arm the business with the right in-store analytics tools There is no shortage of in-store analytics tools in the market.

Some of the most common ones include Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) and video systems. But as useful as they are, these solutions have major limitations. BLE technology is still immature and comprised of multiple competing BLE options.

What’s more, BLE comes with higher operational costs.

Video systems, on the other hand, can collect a vast amount of customer data in the physical stores but they can be a very expensive solution. This is where in-store WiFi comes in. Aside from enabling customers to freely browse the web while they’re at a retail location, it’s more cost-effective than video and BLE. When implemented correctly, WiFi enables retailers to create rich customer profiles that contain insights into their in-store behavior, making it easy to personalise the shopping experience.

Then there’s the fact that WiFi technology is more mature. It’s been around long enough that bugs and user issues have virtually been eliminated and WiFi solutions have already been refined, so non-experts can work their way around the technology.

Taken all together, these benefits show that WiFi is one of the best and most effective analytics tools that data driven retailers can use in-store.

Use anonymised customer data to boost your in-store operations Deploying in-store WiFi allows retailers to collect data in ways that are both unobtrusive and compliant with privacy laws such as GDPR. Prada Group launched WiFi across all its stores across the globe with the help of Cloud4Wi. The Prada Group collected anonymised and aggregated customer data by triangulating their locations. This gave the company high level information on things like foot traffic, dwell time, and in-store behavior.

Having such insights was incredibly useful because it allowed The Prada Group to make better decisions around in-store operations. Thanks to the in-store analytics they’ve collected, they were able to figure out where to best allocate their merchandise and staff.

Take the customer experience to the next level Offering in-store WiFi can also enable retailers to build rich customer profiles that include demographic information and offline behavioral characteristics which can then be used to

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BUSINESS PROFILE

personalise each shopper’s in-store experience.

This can be accomplished by giving customers the chance to opt-in when they connect to a store’s WiFi service and participate in new hyper-tailored engagement programmes where they can decide what is relevant for them.

The Prada Group, once again, executed this well. In addition to allowing them to grow their shopper database, having an opt-in WiFi service dramatically improved the customer experience at The Prada Group’s stores. When someone logs into the location’s WiFi, that shopper’s device is assigned a digital identity that allows the network to recognise them the next time they visit the store. That way, when a loyal customer stops by one of The Prada Group’s stores, the company can use triggered notifications to sales associates, so they can provide better customer service and make shoppers feel special.

the top considerations when implementing the technology:

Implementing in-store analytics: How to do it right Now that the value of in-store analytics has been established, it’s time to look at some of

User-friendliness – Retailers should choose an in-store analytics application that’s intuitive and user friendly, both from the perspectives of the customers and the staff. Having the ability

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Compliance – Failing to comply with privacy and shopper protection laws can land a retailer in hot water. A company that wants to stay on the right side of the law should choose an in-store analytics application that lets them configure their WiFi services based on each location’s compliance requirements.

Integrations – Selecting an application that can integrate with existing technologies makes it easy to connect the dots when it comes to customer data. For example, if a retailer’s in-store analytics application integrates with their MarTech stack, then they can efficiently create personalised experiences, such as tailored product recommendations or customised welcome messages for loyal shoppers.

to quickly connect to the Internet is essential to offering a great customer experience, so retailers must make it easy for shoppers to connect and opt-in. Like The Prada Group, other retailers could enable social media logins so people can go online with just a few taps.

On the employee’s side, companies must see to it that the staff can use the in-store analytics application to learn more about shoppers.

Retailers need an application that makes it simple for associates to view relevant customer information, so they can personalize each person’s in-store experience.

In-store analytics are retailers’ secret weapon Customers’ expectations increase with each new advancement in technology. Personalisation is the name of the game in 2019, so it’s important to understand how to gather in-store analytics in an effective but ethical way. It all starts with having the right technologies. By arming the stores with a powerful but easy to use analytics suite, retailers will be well on the way to creating more compelling customer experiences both in the physical and digital worlds.

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BUSINESS PROFILE

PRADA GROUP The Prada Group uses Cloud4Wi’s product suite to transform in-store customer experience in more than 600 stores worldwide

COMPANY OVERVIEW The Prada Group is one of the world leaders in the luxury goods sector where it operates with the Prada, Miu Miu, Church’s, and Car Shoe brands in the design, production and distribution of luxury handbags, leather goods, footwear, apparel and accessories. The Group also operates in the eyewear and fragrance industries under specific licensing agreements stipulated with industry leaders, and with the recent acquisition (2014) of Pasticceria Marchesi 1824, it has made its entry into the food industry, where it is positioned at the highest levels of quality.

The Challenge Customer satisfaction and loyalty have always been extremely important to The Prada Group, but, by 2015, the absence of WiFi in their stores had become an issue with customers. For some customers it was just the need to always be connected, but The Prada Group also knew that they were missing social media opportunities with shoppers to share their in-store experience.

The company was well aware of the potential challenges of rolling out guest WiFi to hundreds of stores around the world, such as easily managing the WiFi service and providing a consistent customer experience. They needed a solution that would address these issues and also enable them to meet numerous local requirements, since many countries have distinct compliance rules and regulations. This complex deployment would involve people in different departments across the globe; management would certainly be a significant effort.

Given the complex scope of the project, and with customer satisfaction as the number one priority, The Prada Group decided to deploy a guest WiFi solution that provided more capabilities than just basic customer connectivity. They set a goal to build the foundation for their digital transformation process with a solution that could provide: • Quick, non-intrusive customer onboarding • Easy cloud-based management across all store locations • Insight about customers and their in-store behavior • Ability to match customers’ devices with a unique digital identity • Accurate people counting • Seamless integration with their existing third-party systems The Solution The requirement for a global deployment led The Prada Group to pursue a cloud- based solution. This decision also fits their lean IT approach, and they anticipated that cloud solutions would be both quick to roll out and intuitive to use. For networking hardware, The Prada Group chose a cloud-based solution from Cisco Meraki, because they specialize in hassle-free deployments for companies with lean IT. Once the guest WiFi options were examined, the decision to deploy the Cloud4Wi’s product suite was straightforward.

The product suite was built from the ground up with manageability Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

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and scalability in mind and seemed a great fit for the potentially challenging IT requirements. Cloud4Wi’s product suite would make it easy to manage guest WiFi across all The Prada Group stores and is comprehensive enough to comply with strict local regulations.

Cloud4Wi’s product suite platform had already been rolled out in 80 countries and had a demonstrated ability to provide a quick, intuitive sign-on for customers.

The Prada Group could see how product suite’s Location Analytics would help them better understand footfall traffic, including popular days and times customers are visiting, how long they stay, and how often they return.

Additionally, the Cloud4Wi’s product suite provides a robust set of tools for integration into third-party systems, building of custom applications, and enhancement of mobile apps.

In summary, the Cloud4Wi’s product suite did more than fulfill The Prada Group checklist, it enabled opportunities to drive new and innovative ideas to improve their business operations.

RESULTS HIGHLIGHTS • Free WiFi with fast and easy login • Ability to match customers’ devices with a unique digital identity • Insight into customer demographics and in-store behavior • Accurate counting of customers that enter each store • Simple guest WiFi management across all Prada Group stores

About Cloud4Wi Cloud4Wi offers a cloud-based application suite for location services.

Our mission is to help enterprises across multiple industries – retail chains, restaurant chains, shopping centers, transportation and more – better understand and engage customers. Top global brands currently relying on Cloud4Wi include ABSA, Adecco, Adidas, Armani, Burger King, Campari, Carmila, Diamond Internationals, Gruppo FS Italiane, HFE, Illy, Lacoste, McDonald’s, Olive Garden, Prada Group and VTB24. To date, Cloud4Wi’s suite connects more than 130 million mobile users across 45,000 locations in more than 120 countries, while collecting more than 10 billion of location data per month. Cloud4Wi HQs are in San Francisco, with offices in New York, London, Paris, Milan, Pisa, Rio De Janeiro and Bangkok.

“Together, Cloud4Wi and Cisco Meraki enable us to understand who our customers are and how they behave in the stores while respecting their privacy. Thanks to this in-depth knowledge, we will be able to deliver compelling and much more personalized experiences.

Lorenzo Bertelli – Owner and CDO Prada Group

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Tea Trails - Summerville

TRAVEL COVERING THE CONTINENTS

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TRAVEL COVERING THE CONTINENTS

Take Time To Explore The Diversity And Splendour Of

TURKEY Yasemen Kaner-White

Patara Beach

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TRAVEL COVERING THE CONTINENTS - TURKEY

Mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

Ulus Museum of Anatolian Civilisations

T

urkey is one of the most diverse countries with each city offering its own rich culture. It is situated between Eastern Europe and Western Asia sharing borders with Greece, Bulgaria, Syria, Iraq, Iran, Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia. Already a country offering true quality for a low cost, recent further devaluation of the Turkish lira means visitors can enjoy all Turkey has to offer at an even more affordable price, not that you need any further temptation to visit!

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Ottoman Paste Candy Sweet ‘Osmanli Macunu’ Mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

ANKARA is the capital city with a unique blend of modern and historical places to explore. For those who like to shop there is the well known Armada shopping center accompanied by a street lined with eclectic eateries and a stone’s throw from Harvey Nichols, base yourself at the modern Movenpick hotel which is walking distance to both. A short taxi ride away is the mausoleum of Turkey’s much loved leader; Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, as well as his resting place where you should time it to see the impressive changing of the guards display, is a museum detailing his life accompanied by many of his personal possessions. Head to the old town and walk around Ulus for antique shops, food bazaars, restaurants, the castle with a fabulous panoramic city view and a plethora of museums. The stand-out museums are ‘Erimtan’; an archaeology haven, showcasing two changing exhibitions a year from art to history; the self-explanatory ‘Museum of Anatolian Civilizations’ detailing decades gone by from the Palaeolithic period featuring intricate jewellery, wall murals, pottery and more and The Rahmi M. Koç Museum; a personal collection from one of Turkey’s richest residents displaying everything from antique dolls houses to classic cars. Be sure to eat an ‘Ankara tava’ classic melt-in-the-mouth meat stew, before leaving.

Rahmi M. Koç Museum

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Ankara Castle

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ISTANBUL is world renowned for good reason, there is never a dull day when strolling around this city, have fun bartering with the locals when buying your favourite food or gift items or sit and watch the world go buy with a Turkish tea served in a glass tulip shape (national flower) tea glass or opt for strong Turkish coffee at Leb-i-derya for one of the best birds-eye views of Istanbul. Armada Istanbul Old City Hotel located opposite the beautiful Bosphorus sea is ideally located within walking distance to the spectacular Hagia Sophia which started out as a church, then a mosque and now a museum, as well as the opulent Topkapi Palace. Also worth a visit is The Blue Mosque which houses 20,000 hand-painted blue tiles and the Basilica Cistern which imbues intrigue as to the origin of the eerie column featuring an upside-down head of Medusa. Take a ferry ride along the Bosphorus, then, whilst sadly the fish is imported, it’s still a much-loved tradition of tourists and locals alike to eat an iconic Balık ekmek (fish sandwhich) from Eminönu.

A meal, or stay, at legendary Ciragan Palace Kempinski Hotel is a must, but likewise easily found less expensive meals offer the authenticity and embedded natural superior flare of Turkish fare. Eat at Çiya for tasty traditional home-cooked style dishes. Take the furnicular between Beyoğlu and Karakoy; it is the second oldest subway in the world after the London underground. Kadıköy, some say, is now the new Beyoğlu, with a buzz in the air from jazz clubs, bars, cafes and artisan bakeries and should be explored.

View From a Boat on the Bosphorus

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The Tünel (Funicular) Connecting Karaköy and Beyoğlu

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A Birds Eye View of Gaziantep

GAZIANTEP is the city for any true gourmand; in 2015 it was given the title of ‘Gastronomy City’ and included in the UNESCO Creative City Network list. A fascinating place in Southeast Turkey, just ninety minutes from Istanbul and you are in the home of the best baklava in the world, not to mention premium pistachios too. Soon there will even be a museum dedicated to the prized pistachio nut; it goes without saying that as you peruse the bustling bazaar, as well as buying dried hollowed out aubergine and bell pepper shells to fill with rice and meat rehydrating when cooked as ‘dolma’, you must pick up some famous ‘Antep pistachios’ also. Be sure to visit the Kitchen Museum to keep up with the local culinary delights and as the impressive Hamam Museum tracing the traditions from past to present with the chance to make and take away your very own natural bespoke bar of soap. The Zeugma Mosaic Museum houses many mosaics excavated from the ancient Roman city of Zeugma, the ‘Gypsy Girl’ mosaic akin to Mona Lisa, whose eyes seem to follow you no matter where you are in the room is a must see, as is a stroll around the castle for the best panoramic city views. It was Gaziantep where I discovered a hearty soup, often eaten for breakfast called beyran; delicious cuts of lamb neck and shoulder cooked for hours with rice and lots of garlic, along with katmer; a thick cream (kaymak) filled filo pastry topped with crushed pistachio - are two dishes not to be missed when visiting.

Gaziantep Castle

Gypsy Girl Mosaic in the Zeugma Mosaic Museum

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Women Cooking for a Celebration

Kaputaş Beach

PATARA in South West Turkey, about 1½ hr drive from Dalaman airport, is a very special place. A perfect alternative to more frequented nearby Kalkan which whilst also beautiful, Patara feels more ‘local’, more authentic. Full of surprises; it is the birthplace of the real Santa Claus – St Nicholas, home to only nomads up until 30 years ago and the longest, most stunning white-sandy beach in the entire Mediterranean.

After a few hours you’ll feel part of the village, with locals greeting you at restaurants serving piping hot ‘made-in-front-of-you’ gözleme (thin pastry filled with a choice of fillings) and coffee shops full of backgammon playing residents within walking distance. Friday means market day and there is a good one in neighbouring village Kinik, Gömbe is worth going to for the famous meatballs and tasty white bean dish with a tahini dressing, called Piyaz. Go in April for the famed ‘nomadic walk’, which takes place annually during the third weekend along the historical Lycian Way, starting from the well preserved Delikemer Roman aqueduct and back to Patara. Hosts are dressed in national costume and serve lots and lots of traditional foods. Around 700 hundred people join the excursion, both locals and tourists alike, unsurprising, as according to the Sunday Times the Lycian Way is one of the ten most beautiful long distance hikes in the world. For hospitality and home cooked local fare which is hard to beat, stay at Golden Lighthouse Hotel, Golden Pension (the first hotel in Patara), Patara Viewpoint Hotel or Hotel Dardanos.

Golden Lighthouse Hotel

Making Gözleme (Turkish Pancakes)

Ancient Main Market Area in Patara

Dardanos Hotel

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Tlos

Ancient Theatre of Patara

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IZMIR certainly has a holiday feel, year-round. Base yourself in centrally located Movenpick Hotel Izmir and try their sumptuous signature dish of aubergine soup. As Izmir is situated by the seaside it is no surprise that fish is a speciality here, opt for the locally renowned scorpion fish soup. Whilst all over Turkey you can find simit; a sesame encrusted bagel-like bread, here the slightly crispier version is called gevrek. Go to the pretty town of Alaçatı offering an idyllic seaside break on the Turkish Aegean coast. Whitewashed houses lining winding streets, a castle to pose in front of for your holiday pictures, smiling locals and a multitude of cute craft shops to potter about in, you can’t help but to feel relaxed and at peace.

Alaçatı Mövenpick Hotel Izmir

Kiz Kulesi (Tower)

Alaçatı

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Meram

Baraj Parki

Market in Sile

In The Spotlight… KONYA A magical city full of history and intrigue, Konya is the resting place of the 13th Century Sufi mystical poet and founder of the Mevlevi order (dervishes); Rumi (Jalāl ad-Dīn Muhammad Balkhī), whose insightful and inspirational words are known throughout the world.

The dervishes following Rumi are also known as whirling dervishes, due to their dance called Sema which they believe brings them closer to God, whereby they whirl round and round with unfocused eyes, allowing them to be in the moment, akin to meditation. Saturday is the day to watch a Sema taking place. The dervishes’ original lodge, which is now a museum, has recreated rooms with figurines to imagine what it was like to be one of them, living there in days gone by. The Mevlana is buried in the museum and visitors can see his mausoleum as well as those of his family, alongside examples of intricate 13th century motives.

Extravagant gifts from prominent visitors are on display, including a hanging sculpture made from one piece of marble taking 20 years to carve and complete. Hich Hotel couldn’t be in a better place, light floods each of the rooms where the windows open to look out directly on to the Mevlana museum, a stone’s throw away. Kick-start your exploration days with their buffet breakfast brimming with local fresh fare such as olives, cheeses, honey, fruit, herbs, local speciality buttery cheese filled flatbread; yağ somunu and a meze served with traditional Turkish eggs cooked in a copper skillet.

Konya is divided into three districts, Meram, Karatay where the Mevlana museum is and Selçuklu. Meram is very green attracting locals to come and have picnics among the pine trees, hike or indeed BBQ in the summer months. An affluent area with many large villas, you can play paint ball and hire quad bikes in the mountains. The city centre is nice to wander around and find a cafe to eat the Konya delicacy ‘saç böregi’, a thin pastry with potato, meat, mushroom, cheese or mixed.

Lunch at Gokcem restaurant named after its owner, serving local delicacies such as bamya soup (dried okra soup) and the sweet treat; irmik helvası. Originally the healthy soup (okra is thought to have antibiotic qualities), was meat, meat stock and dried okra, it was not until after the Selçuk period that tomatoes were introduced, incidentally, Konya was once the capital of Selçuk. Whilst in Meram, you must swing

by Zeliha Cylan Tandır Evi to buy some tandır bread straight from Zeliha’s stone oven, you’ll see ladies crossed legged, hair up in a scarf, kneading and preparing the breads in front of your eyes.

A takeaway treat is the tandır gevreği dried bread peppered with crunchy cannabis seeds. If you are lucky enough to be in Konya on a Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

Mevlana Museum

Selimiye Mosque

Mevlana Museum

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Sunday and a wedding is happening, feel free to join in, it is customary that the entire village and whomever else wishes to go will be fed, it is not uncommon for as much as 250kg of meat to be cooked for guests in huge pans. Whilst the men and women sit separately, all can enjoy the music. Another famous dish in Konya is Etliekmek and Lokmahane Carsi restaurant with its built in traditional stone oven makes a great one; delicious thin bread topped with mince meat, tomato, onion and green pepper, wrapped up with a squeeze of lemon and fresh coriander inside. Follow with a fırın kebabı (oven cooked lamb, order the neck in advance - best bit) and sweet pumpkin with tahini and walnut.

In Selçuklu lies a small village named Sille, which similar to Cappadocia, though on a smaller scale, boasts a rock face with fascinating cave formations to explore, climb to the top for a unique panoramic view. Rest and revive at a rooftop café with a glass of Turkish tea and perhaps a shisha. The village where Greeks and Turks lived alongside each other peacefully for centuries has a daily organic market where you can stock up on sun-dried dates, cherries, figs, plums, mulberries, okra, assorted local nuts and much more. Wander around one of the oldest churches in Anatolia, Byzantine Orthodox Church turned museum; Aya Elena Kilisesi müze. In summer and winter alike you’ll find quirky artisan stalls along the street offering handmade gifts to buy from beaded necklaces, ceramic tiles, to pottery feature the iconic whirling dervishes. Nearby is Baraj Park, which makes for a beautiful walk around a lake, a spot of fishing, ride on a jet ski or relax in the café surrounded by calming nature.

As well as the Mevlana museum, Karatay is an interesting place to walk around and perfect for picking up items particular to Konya, for example the ‘Konya şekeri’; essentially sweet candy in an abundance of colours, white being the original, as well as specialised local crafts such as antique carpets made with natural dyes, marbled paintings called ‘Ebru’, whirling dervish paintings, conical felt caps known as a sikke and the finest examples of Hat Sanatı (Arabic calligraphy) which you can, if pre-ordered, have personalised. Go for a kebab at özel ciğer or a bowl of delicious white beans ‘piyaz’ and lamb köfte at Asmaalti Koftecisi.

The busy pedestrian Zafer St is where you’ll see some nice old buildings as well as be able to shop to your heart’s content, Konya’s answer to the famous Istiklal St in Istanbul. Go to the Alâeddin Mosque, which was the mosque of the sultans in Selçuk times; it is said that there is a tunnel under the huge Alâeddin roundabout which leads directly to the Mevlana.

Mevlana Museum at Night

Çatalhöyük Sille

Alaadin Hill

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Mevlana Museum Garden

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The ancient Neolithic town of Çatalhöyük houses dwellings from over 9,000 years ago, a more raw and less polished display than Pompeii but just as intriguing, however to see the recovered objets d’art, you’ll need to visit the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara. The concentrated farming community produced exceptional art and architecture for its time, making it one of the most important archeological sites in the world. For a dinner to remember, head to Dedeman Hotel where the menu is inspired by the 1858 cookbook written by Ali Eşref. Start with a shot of vinegar, water and honey to clean your palate then tahana soup – a traditional yogurt and breadcrumb delicacy. Tradition has it that to signal to the waiter you wanted more water, guests would place a piece of bread in their pocket. Gorge on courgettes stuffed with mince & rice bound with egg; stewed tender lamb with baby onions and garlic alongside a compote of unsweetened figs. Green plums, cumin and cinnamon are on the table to accompany the dishes. A stand-out dish has to be the incredible pudding; ‘vişneli ekmek tatlısı’ - white bread lightly buttered cooked in the oven to make it crisp, then soaked in sour cherry syrup sandwiching thick kaymak (cream) with cherries on top.

Round off your meal with a warm drink ‘pelteşin’ - rose water and corn starch. Another special place to dine has to be Lokmahane with a menu devised by renowned foodie and local gourmand Ahmet Ergun, start with their soup of the day using a wooden spoon (helps cool it down no burnt lips!) followed by Anotolian specialities including handmade yaprak dolma (stuffed vine leaves), a whole lamb on a bed of chickpeas and rice so soft the bones slide out, more delicious lamb cooked with molasses and dried apricots (melt-in-the-mouth), yet more lamb (tirit) this time topped with sumac spice which has become crispy in the oven and rounded off with helva topped with walnuts.

Yağ Somunu

In the words of Rumi…“Only from the heart can you touch the sky.”

Hich Hotel

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VALUABLE VINTAGE

motorbikes Proof There Is More To Them Than A Ride Dan Amis

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Belgrade, Serbia - Predrag Vuckovic

LUXURY

Hamburg, Germany - Michael Pfeiffer

P

rices for rare motorbikes are continually on the rise, whilst auto sales are somewhat stalling, making vintage motorbike collections attractive. Similar to other luxury collectables, vintage motorbikes historically show good rates of return, are in limited supply, and appeal strongly to nostalgic emotions. Some checklist items before investing include rarity, authenticity and documentation. We all know that the best bikes command huge prices when brand new, however that is nothing when comparing to some of their vintage counterparts. Naturally some old bikes are just old but some, like a fine wine, increase in value with age, becoming collectors’ items.

Hamburg, Germany - Michael Pfeiffer

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Transcorp Hilton Abuja offers contemporary accommodation and a host of premium amenities within easy walking distance of the city’s major attractions.

Get the lowest price when you book direct* at abuja.hilton.com or call +234 9 4613000

*Subject to Availability. Terms & Conditions apply. Visit www.hilton.com for full details.

ADVENTURES IN LUXURY

Top Ten Most Expensive Vintage Motorbikes Sold At Auction 10. The 1942 Crocker V-Twin Big Tank – $385,000 Sold at the EJ Cole Collection sale in March of 2015. Californian based company; Crocker, produced only 72 V-twin motorcycles and this was one of them. It is also the highest price that a Crocker motorcycle has ever gone for.

Chicago, United States Sebastian Hagan

Chicago, United States Sebastian Hagan

9. The 1911 Flying Merkel Board Track Racer – $423,000 It was thought that the Flying Merkel motorbike was no more, until one surfaced at auction a few years ago. Production numbers were low, but fortunately one managed to survive the test of time. The bike was auctioned at the Mecum Auctions in Las Vegas in 2015.

8. The 1951 Vincent White Shadow – $434,000 The Black Shadow is known to be rare but the White Shadow is rarer still, only 15 were ever made between 1949 and 1952. Sold in 2016 at the Bonhams Las Vegas Auction. The main difference from the White and Black is the bare metal engine cases on the White, compared with the blacked out versions on the Black.

Copenhagen, Denmark Mogens Flege Brandt

7. The 1958 Ariel Cyclone 650 – $450,000 The 1958 Ariel Cyclone 650 was once owned by Buddy Holly and later country music legend Waylon Jennings, thereby increasing its value.

The bike sold in 2014 at the Guernsey Auctions in Phoenix, Arizona.

6. The 1926 Brough Superior SS100 ‘Alpine Grand Sports’ – $452,234 This Brough stands out for the exceptional condition it was in, when it sold in London in 2012.

5. The 1922 Brough Superior SS80 – $463,847 Nicknamed ‘Old Bill’, it was ridden by George Brough himself, together they managed to win over 50 races. Journalist, war despatch rider, veteran dirt bike and road rider, as well as President of the Vintage Motorcycles Club, ‘Titch’ Allen bought the bike before it going to auction in Duxford, England for the huge sum of $463,234 in 2012.

Sydney, Australia My Media Sydney

4. The 1939 BMW RS255 Kompressor – $480,000 Although assembled in the 1980’s, it uses an original 1939 BMW RS255 engine and a 1951 Rennsport plunger style frame. The brainchild of former BMW Works rider Walter Zeller, it sold in 2013.

3. The 1907 Harley-Davidson Strap Tank – $715,000 Unlike many vintage motorcycles seen at auction, this 440cc motorbike has not been restored, all the parts are original and in fantastic condition for its age. Selling at the Mecum Auctions in March of 2015, it is the most expensive Harley Davidson ever sold.

2. The 1915 Cyclone Board Track Racer – $852,500 One of only twelve models thought to exist, capable of an incredible speed of 111 mph, it was also owned by Steve McQueen. Sold in 2018 at the Mecum Auctions in Las Vegas.

1. The 1951 Vincent Black Lightning – $929,000 It’s said that this model was actually imported to Australia by Tony McAlpine and performed well against the competitors, reaching speeds of up to and over 130 mph. It’s reported that the bike will be returning to Australia permanently. Sold completely unrestored but in working condition this outstanding bike sold in 2018 at the Rio Hotel & Casino in Las Vegas to a telephone bidder from Australia.

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Bologna, Italy Matteo Fagiolino

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Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride Celebrates Motorcycles Whilst Raising Money It is commendable that whilst exceptional examples of motorbikes raise capital for the wealthy, motorbikes are also giving back to the community. The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride is a parade held in over 650 cities across 95 countries with stylish folk riding classic and vintage styled bikes to raise awareness and funds for prostate cancer research and men’s mental health on behalf of The Movember Foundation. The Movember Foundation is the leading men’s health charity, funding over 1,200 projects in 21 countries worldwide, focused on men’s mental health, suicide prevention, testicular and prostate cancer research, and support. To date, Movember has raised over $800 million worldwide to deliver innovative, breakthrough research and support programmes that enable men to live happier, healthier and longer lives.

It is not a ride just for men, as it has many women also dressing smartly for the cause whilst participating upon their motorcycles to support the men in their lives. The 2018 event took place globally on Sunday September 30th, and was managed by a small and dedicated team from Sydney, Australia. Up until 2018, the ride raised over $13M USD in five years of fundraising, with the 2018 target of $6M USD being superseded and raising $6.3M to add to this total.

The next ride commences on the 29th of September, with registrations open until the 1st of August; why not join in?

The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride kick-started in 2012 after Mark Hawwa the founder of social riding group ‘Sydney Cafe’ Racers’ wanted a way to bring together the local and global scenes for a bit of fun and theatre. Mark was heavily influenced by an image of the fictional character Don Draper from Mad Men, sitting upon a classic Matchless Motorcycle.

The cafe racer scene had a huge resurgence, with it being initially seen as a fad that was then adopted by a new wave of motorcyclists. That is when Mark decided to try his hand at arranging the first ride as a way of a laughing off the stereotype by adding his own flair, and stepping it up a notch with everyone ‘dressed dapper’ for a city parade. As it turned out, over 2,500 people from 64 cities took part on the first Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride, which gave Mark the idea to associate it with a charity moving forward, hence the decision to begin raising funds for global prostate cancer research. https://www.gentlemansride.com

Buenos Aires, Argentina Alejandro Rosso

Citta di Castello, Italy Marco Bigozzi

NYC, United States Zenith Watches

Buenos Aires, Argentina Juan Manuel Novelli Frutos

2018 Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride Stats

Zagreb, Croatia Matija Vuri

- 115,000 registered participants - 648 cities from 101 countries particpated - $6.3M USD to help fund research into prostate cancer and support men’s mental health on behalf of the Movember Foundation.

Sydney, Australia My Media Sydney

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ART IN FOCUS

THE

OF

BY BONHAMS

W

hen Booker Prize winning novelist Ben Okri, writing in Bonhams Magazine, described Tutu by the Nigerian artist Ben Enwonwu as ‘the African Mona Lisa’ and its recent discovery as ‘a potentially transforming moment in the world of art’, he was not simply paying a compliment to a fine painting. He was summing up the incredible journey of modern African art over the past decade. Tutu – a work of legendary significance in Nigeria - sold for £1,205,000 in February 2018, setting a new world record for the artist, and becoming the most valuable Nigerian painting sold at auction.

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Ten years ago, when Bonhams pioneered Modern and Contemporary African Art sales in London achievements of that scale seemed distant prospects. Indeed, it felt for a while like sailing in uncharted waters. Although we always had faith in the quality of the work, it was not until 2013 that we experienced a real breakthrough with collectors. (South African art already had an established following, but its most valuable artists at auction like Irma Stern – whose Arab Priest Bonhams sold for a world record of £3,044,000 in 2011– had their roots firmly in the Western tradition).

2013 also saw Tate Modern’s major exhibition of Contemporary African Art in London. This was the first large-scale international show of its kind, and it introduced leading African contemporary artists to a wider public.

Importantly, it led to a change in the gallery’s acquisition policy to embrace African art – an acknowledgement that Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

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Enwonwu Benin - Tutu 1

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Demas Nwoko - Cycle of Life

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ART IN FOCUS

G SeKoto - Wash Day

the continent was producing some of the most exciting and dynamic works in the world.

So as we prepare to launch our first Africa Now Sale in New York for a decade in May, – where we will unveil The Bicyclists, a rediscovered work by Nigerian painter Demas Nwoko – the picture looks very different from those early years. We now hold two sales a year in London, and their value has soared from £355,00 in 2009 to £3,750,000 in 2018 making Bonhams the world’s leading auctioneers in the field. In the wider art community, 1:54, the Contemporary African Art Fair first held in Somerset House in London in 2013, has grown year by year, and expanded to take in New York and Marrakesh.

In 2017 the Louis Vuitton Foundation in Paris hosted a major exhibition dedicated to contemporary African art; and the opening the same year of the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art (MOCCA) has for the first time provided a high quality show case in Africa for the world’s largest collection of Contemporary African Art. The market for Contemporary African Art has two main drivers: African collectors both on the continent itself and elsewhere; and international Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

collectors and musuems. The burgeoning middle classes in countries like Nigeria give active support to indigenous artists by buying studio work, but are also increasingly bidding at auction. The discovery of Tutu created a storm of media interest in Nigeria where Enwonwu’s three lost Tutu paintings had holy grail status as symbols of national reconciliation in the wake of the Nigerian-Biafran conflict of the late 1960. But significantly it was also a major news story in the rest of the world, where the combination of a rediscovered masterpiece and the powerful beauty of the work itself was a potent attraction for the world’s media.

Internationally, major collectors such as Jean Pigozzi and Charles Saatchi lead a growing group of contemporary art collectors in London, Europe and north America.

As the market has matured, key figures have emerged as the bankable stars.

The Ghanaian sculptor El Anatsui, for example, has been exhibited in prestigious galleries and musuems all over the world. Best known for his distinctive bottle-top installations, he was awarded the prestigious Golden Lion for lifetime achievement

Anyanwu

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Enwonwu Benin - Negitude

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ART IN FOCUS Enwonwu Benin - Oba of Benin

Enwonwu Benin - Women wearing Ankara

These new discoveries of African art are poised to alter the artistic landscape of our times.” at the 2015 Venice Biennale; and is the only Ghanaian to have been awarded the Japanese Premium Imperiale, an honour he shares with many other distinguished sculptors including Anish Kapoor, Anthony Gormley and Louise Bourgeois. In 2015 Bonhams set a then world record for El Anatsui’s New World Map which sold for £541,250. Three years later his Peju’s Robe sold for £806,500.

Ben Enwonwu’s work was, of course, in high demand at auction well before Tutu and it features regularly among the Top Ten lots at Bonhams sales. A sculptor as well as a painter he was the first important Nigerian artist to reflect the nation’s sculptural traditions in his work and his masterpiece Anyanwu sold at Bonhams in 2017 for a world record price of £353,000.

The Nigerian painter and academic Yusuf Grillo is not a prolific artist – his works can Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

take years of painstaking effort to complete – but the results are highly prized and increasing in value at auction. “Twins”, for example, sold for £147,000 in 2016; The Blind Beggar made £106,000 in 2017.

The reputation of African Contemporary art is now firmly established. As collectors become more international and adventurous in their tastes and keen to seek out the best in cultures from round the world, demand for work from Africa – in my view among the most fascinating, vibrant and engaging to be found anywhere – will continue to grow. Perhaps we should leave the last word to Ben Okri.: “There ought to be a new timeline of art, in which Tutu exists alongside Picasso’s Seated Woman of 1960, and The Bicyclists dwells alongside Edward Hopper’s Nighthawk. These new discoveries of African art are poised to alter the artistic landscape of our times.”

The next Bonhams Auction of Modern & Contemporary Art will be held in New York on 2nd May 2019.

Contact: Giles Peppiatt giles.peppiatt@bonhams.com

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Yusuf Grillo - Mother of Twins

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ADVENTURES IN SPORT

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ADVENTURES IN SPORT

There’s no business like golf business Ross Biddiscombe

G

olf and business have enjoyed a happy union for many decades. The top, modern-day tournaments are supported by industries ranging from banking and motor manufacturers to airlines and even national governments. The men and women who lead these businesses often enjoy playing the game themselves and that love of golf helps them authorise tens of millions of dollars on sponsorship and hospitality. Take a look down the list of US PGA Tour or European Tour tournaments and you will find sponsors such as FedEx, AT&T, BMW, HSBC, Sony, Rolex and so many more and that’s because golf is unique – good players and not-so-good ones can all enjoy a game together. Golf is not a good walk spoiled for business people, it’s a chance for people in business to bond with a client, hold a serious conversation or seal a deal.

A list of the amateur players in a pro-am competition like the AT&T Pebble Beach tournament in California every February on the PGA Tour reveals a host of CEOs as well as celebrities. For every film star like Bill Murray teeing it up, there is James P. Gorman, the chairman and CEO of Morgan Stanley or along with Super Bowl-winning New England Patriot coach Bill Belichick there is Douglas Parker, chairman and CEO of American Airlines.

The European Tour has its own highprofile pro-am each autumn, the Dunhill Championship which is played on three

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different courses including the Old Course at St Andrews. Irish billionaire businessmen and friends like publishing magnate Dermot Desmond and racehorse breeder John Magnier are regulars in the Dunhill, for example, men like this are not just fans of playing the game, they support golf in other ways. International hotelier Sir Rocco Forte stages a tournament on the European Tour that both bears his name and is played at the resort that he owns on the island of Sicily. Another course owner is another Irish billionaire JP McManus (he made much of his money as a foreign exchange trader) who hopes to bring the 2026 Ryder Cup to his Adare Manor course in Limerick, Ireland. However, these men far from being the most famous businessman who own golf courses – that title goes to property tycoonturned-politician, US President Donald Trump.

The President owns 17 golf courses around the world, some which have been constructed (such as the Trump International Golf Links near Aberdeen, Scotland), but several that were bought in a financially distressed state, such as The Doral in Miami, Florida.

This close relationship between golf and business actually began in the early part of the 20th century when the sport’s early professional players needed patrons to fund tournaments and provide prize money. Cozying up to wealthy businessmen with a love of the sport was an obvious strategy and men like former American pro baseball player AG Spalding (who founded his eponymous sports equipment

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Hotelier Sir Rocco Forte is one of many rich businessmen involved heavily in golf.

Here he is with European Ryder Cup captain Thomas Bjorn promoting the 2018 Rocco Forte Sicilian Open. Photo courtesy Verdura Resort.

industry in the late 1800s) and English seed merchant Samuel Ryder (who gave his name and his money - to launch golf’s Ryder Cup in 1927) were early examples.

However, golf only tapped heavily into the business community when American lawyer-turned-sports agent Mark McCormack harnessed the power of television in the early 1960s. McCormack turned America’s favourite golfer of the time, Arnold Palmer, into the sport’s first television celebrity, maximizing the player’s natural charisma. Palmer’s annual income would rise from $50,000 to $500,000

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within three years and eventually to more than $10 million.

McCormack was the first person to develop sponsorship with Asian companies such as the whiskey brand Suntory which gave its name to one of his first made-for-television events, the World Matchplay at Wentworth, England, in 1964. The competition was classic McCormack because it was eventually rubber-stamped by the European Tour due to its huge prize purse that attracted the world’s best players. The fast-talking Yale graduate’s agency International Management Group - better known now as

IMG – did more than anyone to turn golf itself into a business in itself.

But while McCormack worked successfully behind the scenes on commercialising golf for over 40 years, it was another one of his clients at IMG who took the sport to an even higher level of commercial success.

When Tiger Woods turned pro in 1996, the idea of a powerful, young black man becoming the best player in a white man’s sport was just too thrilling for the whole sporting world to ignore. Woods signed with McCormack who helped then him sign an eyeFifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

ADVENTURES IN SPORT

Top left: Bill Murray - Elias Lefas & Courtesy Costa Navarino Golf Club Bottom left: Tiger Woods courtesy of Ross Biddiscombe Right from top to bottom: Mark H. McCormack Papers, UMass Amherst Libraries 1 World number one Rory McIlroy and world number two Tiger Woods enjoy a laugh during the Duel at Jinsha Lake in Zhengzhou, China. Photo - David Paul Morris-i3.

Former world No 1 golfer Luke Donald is interviewed in front of a typical branding wall.

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Top British women players Georgia Hall and Charley Hull at the GolfSixes tournament in 2018.

Photo credit - Ross Biddiscombe

The business of golf is increasingly about developing mixed events like the European Tour’s Golf Sixes. Photo courtesy - Ladies European Tour.

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Women’s golf is a new area for golf business. America’s Lexi Thompson wins the Dubai Ladies Masters with all the sponsors’ brands (including her own) on display.

Photo courtesy - Ladies European Tour.

watering $48 million sponsorship deal with Nike before the player had even begun his life as a tournament pro.

Woods soon transcended the sport, grabbing the attention of a whole new audience of sports fans who were - and still are - as fascinated by his 18 major championship wins as they are about his personality and private life. His influence on the business of golf cannot be overstated.

‘The Tiger Effect’ boosted all areas of the sport over the next few years, from course building to equipment sales. The key was his ability to increase the worldwide TV audience.

For example, when Woods returned to the Masters tournament last year after a two-year absence and first day viewing figures were up 40% among US audiences alone.

And those extra TV viewers not only translated into more people starting to play golf, but also higher advertising rates for golf tournaments, bigger sponsorship deals and more prize money for the players. The season before Tiger joined the US PGA Tour, the leading pro was Phil Mickelson who earned a total of just over $1.5 from tournament Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

play. Within five seasons, Woods was the No 1 player, winning nearly $6 million in prize money and not just because he was winning more often than almost any player in history, but because companies were fighting to put their names onto tournaments and pouring more money into the sport. Nowadays the top US pros like Dustin Johnson will earn nearly $10 million in prize money per season.

While the tournament side of the business has boomed, golf has seen other areas of its business increase. One example is companies like TaylorMade, Wilson and Callaway producing ever more high-tech and expensive equipment, so a single golf club (such as a new model driver) can retail at around $500. And the same kind of money can be the price of a green fee at some of the world’s most exclusive clubs like Pebble Beach in California or the Donald Trump-owned Doral. Golf is truly big business nowadays.

But, golf also faces some serious issues as the Tiger Effect slows down. Numbers of players in the traditional golf-friendly countries like the USA and the UK is actually declining and the developing markets such as China and India are

not quite reversing the trend. The reasons are manyfold, but it is partly because construction of golf courses has slowed down in the last few years. In Europe, for example, the number of golf courses operating in 2014 was 7,000, but that figure has now dropped by around 200.

Plus, golf still being an expensive sport to play and critics say takes too long. To counteract this, there has been a rise in the number indoor golf simulator centres to be set up in recent years. They allow short, sharp, virtual reality golf with the bonus of being able to eat and drink at the same time, like a normal night out.

And that is golf’s new business push – to attract more young men and women to the sport. So, sponsors are calling for new tournaments in which men and women can take part, like the European Tour’s Golf Sixes which is a pairs competition for some of the world’s best male and female pros and played over just six holes.

But whatever new strategies that the sport of golf adopts, the one element that will never change is that it will work hand-in-hand with the business community to bring success.

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FASHION – MAKEUP

Makeup has a history you couldn’t make up…

Frances K. White

The early cosmetics industry since the early 20th century has been dominated by a few multi-national corporations; L’Oreal, the Estee Lauder companies, Shiseido, to name a few. In 2016, the US was considered the most valuable global beauty care market worth approximately 84 billion US dollars, the leading health and beauty retailer being the chain beauty store Ulta Cosmetics and Fragrance. That same year, Amazon, the leading online beauty retailer, had a 21.1% share of the total market, whilst the top three beauty sales providers currently are L’Oreal $27.2 billion, Unilever $21.3 billion and Estee Lauder Cos. $11.8 billion. In general sales, foundation is the most profitable followed by mascara, eye liners, eye shadows and brow make-up, in total generating more than 2.1 billion US dollars in 2016, then comes the highlighters, primers, powders and concealers.

Lipstick being most profitable, coming in at 626.8 million US dollars for lip make-up alone.

Make up over the years has also extended its options and reach, for example it is no longer hard for customers of every skin tone to find foundations to suit their complections, as it should be, within both the mainstream brands but also specialist brands such as ‘Black Opal’.

In fact Black Opal’s marketing blurb sums up their offering nicely; ‘Black Opal represents beauty in every colour. No matter how unique Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

your shade, your tone or your heritage, we see you and we celebrate the fire in you’.

The business of beauty is shown by some of the biggest global, annual beauty shows, exploring the sheer variety of products available and forecasting what will be the next big things in the beauty arena. Most are aimed at trade but consumers are also welcome. Every April America’s Beauty Show takes place in Chicago, Illinois, hosted by the Chicago Cosmetologists Association, it is aimed at everyone from cosmetologists, estheticians, nail techs, stylists and more, with over 80,000 professionals, individuals, influencers, and brand ambassadors attending. The International Beauty Show in March in New York and June the 15th-17th in Las Vegas are famous; a huge celebration of the beauty industry with over 500 exhibitors, 100 free classes, and industryleading education opportunities. In England, the largest annual Beauty Show outside of London is ‘Beauty UK’ held in the NEC, Birmingham on the 19th and 20th of May. With four shows under one roof, visitors see the latest in Spring/summer launches in beauty, nails, hair and complimentary therapies.

Perhaps the most famous in England is the annual ‘Olympia Beauty’ in London on the 29th to the 30th of September. Now stepping into it’s fifteenth year, Olympia Beauty brings

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the biggest beauty brands to London; features including The Salon & Spa Owners’ Club, The Education Club, The Olympia Stage programme, The National Massage Championship, Nailympia London, Brush Wars, The Lash Games and so much more.

Given the size of the cosmetics market in the United States, consumers are faced with infinite choices; coming out on top are Maybelline, L’Oreal and Cover Girl. Anastasia Beverly Hills though, is mentioned in 32% of all social media comment.

Lipstick, or ‘lippy’ a generic term for lip makeup, originates from a baton/stick of ingredients in a tubular container comprising oils, wax and pigment, offering protection from sun, dry/windy conditions, giving lips colour and smoothness, alongside providing hydration or a soothing chapped lips balm; the basic formula remaining the same.

It’s one of many ways humans, especially women, draw attention to the opposite sex, highlighting the first port of call of most lovers…the lips! Notably a blue toned red makes teeth appear whiter, whereas an orange-toned one favours most skin types. The preferred western contour for wearing lipstick, is a ‘cupid’s bow’, inspired by the 20’s actress, Clara Bow. Interestingly, at that time, it was considered acceptable to re-apply lipstick during lunch but never at dinner! If lips don’t naturally form that shape, a lip liner is used to draw the desired ‘bow’ before filling in with the preferred colour. Present-day lipsticks have a notched tip for ease of use, aided further by lip brushes. It was in Clara Bow’s time that black lipstick first appeared, to mitigate problems with film lighting, initiated by Max Factor – which then oversaw the blossoming of the beauty industry in America.

Prehistoric times saw lipstick made from plant juices or crushed fruits in ancient North Africa, India or the Middle East. The first creators of lipstick, thought to be Mesopotamia women, ground precious gems to powder their lips, although it’s believed Egyptians first manufactured lipstick. There, clergy, royalty and upper classes used several types of lip make-up, albeit many recipes contained poisonous ingredients causing illnesses or even fatalities. During that time the carmine (red cochineal) colour became popular, extracted by crushing the bodies and eggs of female cochineal insects to mix with aluminium or calcium salts, making carmine dye, a method still in use, although these native Mexican and Central American insects are monitored during production now by food and cosmetic industries. When its influence took hold, the formula and use of lipstick travelled from Egypt across Europe to the Greek and Roman empires, though once Christianity took root in Europe, briefly it disappeared, the Catholic Church particularly aligning the use of red lipstick with satanic worship. It wasn’t until the 16th Century it reappeared during Queen Elizabeth 1st reign when fashion called for pale faces, and bright red

lips stained with plant juices mixed with beeswax.

Initially confined to upper class women and male actors, eventually lipstick became the mark of low class women and prostitutes, which attitude remained until the late 19th century industrial revolution, when its commercialisation brought it back into favour. That said, through most of the 19th century British women were not thought respectable if their makeup was obvious, it being connected to actors, and women of the night, therefore ‘uncouth’. Makeup in the 1850’s also carried warnings of dangerous lead and vermillion used in the formula. Yet, by the 19th century end, Guerlain, a French cosmetic company, began to manufacture lipstick on the back of the first commercial lipstick invented in 1884

by Parisian perfumers. Covered in silk paper and made from deer tallow (wax) castor oil and beeswax, such lipstick was previously homemade. Approval was further helped by low manufacturing costs, and rise of photography of famous actresses wearing it. The early 20th century, with a limited colour selection, dark red being most common, saw fashion popularising further colour trends, namely lavender, pale pink, white and peach, plus, as manufacturing methods improved, matt, sheer, hydrating and glossy formulas emerged, resulting, three decades on, in a survey revealing 2/3rds of teenage girls wore lipstick as a sign of womanhood and femininity. Modern lipstick palettes can now include iridescent light blue, frosted lime green, silver sparkled navy blue, and hues of greens blues and violets, as well as the favourite of punks and goths; black.

The first reference to black lipstick (red lipstick=hot/ black lipstick=hot/scary) was in Egyptian times around 4000 BC, applied by using a wet stick of wood kept in a ‘caboodle’ case, filled with make-up pigments (hence the saying “the whole kit and caboodle”). Men too painted their lips. Any deceased often buried with pots of rouge in their tombs, appearance always important!

Thousands of years later, the 1700’s, Maori women tattooed their lips permanently blue or black, it going out of fashion in the 20thcentury, but recent decades seeing its revival, another culture aligning life with death; their saying “Inscribe yourself to you have a friend in death”. Currently, one can buy a black lipstick, that when applied, turns red on the lips – called a mood lipstick. Black lipstick per se, faded from popularity in the 40’s but re-emerged in the 60’s through the iconic brand Biba, and in the late 1970’s firmly came out of the paradigm of Halloween or scary, into mainstream make-up that one can now see everywhere.

1915 was when lipstick was encased in metal tubes requiring a fingernail to push up a side slide, until 1923, when the first swivel tube came about in the second world war replacing metal cases with plastic.

In the 1990’s the Lip-Ink International Company invented a wax-free, semi-permanent liquid formula, now being imitated as a long-lasting lip-stain or

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liquid lip-colour by others. 2015 saw a reversal trend towards nude lipstick once more, but contemporary times, bring us back to colour once more.

Lipstick, particularly red, has always made a woman feel empowered, notwithstanding some throughout the ages considered its use bawdy, erotic or risque, notably in the middle ages; a sign of witchcraft, yet its transformative effect gives an immediate lift in spirit and confidence. It is now considered de rigeur in any fashion image, and has a broad spectrum regarding cost, colour, recipe and influence on the user, in terms of their look and life; the modern swivel-up tube encasing an immediate mood changer! 80% of North American women use it regularly and over 30% have 20 lipsticks in their possession at any one time.

Dita Von Teese, the American burlesque dancer, proclaimed “Heels and red lipstick will put the fear of God into people” whereas Coco Chanel asserted “if you’re sad, add more lipstick and attack” and Dolly Parton is famously quoted as saying, until she was a teenager she “used red pokeberries for lipstick” proving whatever age, status or lifestyle a woman had or has, she will always find a way to colour her lips. The cultural influence of highlighting lips through millennia show multiple cultures employing this ritual, though there are other cultural differences and traditions surrounding beauty, such as traditional Japanese wives forbidden to walk in public without full face makeup and contemporary Japanese women embracing a ‘doll-like’ face, including coloured contacts and fake lashes daily, whereas Korean women prefer a more natural look, aside from; like Japanese women, coloured contacts, though in a more natural colour. Thai women favour a straight brow line, with red lipstick yet pale foundation, and Dubai ladies like a full eyebrow, again, straight. This brings us to Brazilian women, who have naturally thick lashes and emphasise them further with Kohl, used throughout the ages, particularly in the Middle East, North Africa, Mediterranean and South Asia to darken inside and outside the eyeline. Egyptian women were one of the first civilisations to use kohl by mixing soot with the mineral galena (lead sulfide) alongside green eye makeup – probably made from mixing malachite with galena. They also thought wearing kohl would protect them from eye disease and midday sun glare.

Cleopatra in the 1st century BC used a range of cosmetics made from rocks, minerals and plants, for instance bright blue on her eyelids made from ground lapis lazuli, lipstick and rouge made from red ochre (a type of clay – used by other ancient cultures for the same reason) and red/brown nail polish made from henna, derived from the Egyptian privet tree.

Although mainly used by women, some men and children also use kohl. In India, mothers would apply kohl to their infant’ eyes after birth to ‘strengthen’ their eyes or prevent the ‘evil eye’ cursing them. They themselves, currently use a bright colour beneath their eyes, and black above it. In Latin America women often highlight just beneath the eye, rather than above and below. Russian women adore false lashes, whereas French oftentimes highlight various areas of their entire face to bring out their bone structure.

Undoubtedly, makeup is here to stay in many shapes and forms – both culturally and personally, and will forever evolve until the world stops turning.

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Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

A meeting place for authentic Ethiopian food and traditional beverages.

289 Fox Street, Maboneng, JHB, SA Contact: 0110582977

Join us for a purely authentic Ethiopian experience in the heart of Maboneng.

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TRAVEL COVERING THE CONTINENTS - GREECE

Marrakech Souk

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Reasons to go to

GLORIOUS

GREECE Yasemen Kaner-White

Crete - Chania - Balos Beach - Photo Y. Skoulas

Essaouira Place Moulaiy Hassan

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Crete - by Region of Crete

G

reece is situated south east of Europe, at the meeting point of three continents; Europe, Asia and Africa. There are around 6000 islands and islets dotted around in the Aegean and Ionian Sea, most of them grouped in clusters that constitute the standout Greek archipelago.

MAIN CITIES

Athens of course is the capital city and the largest city in Greece. Due to the 2004 Athens Olympic Games, the city was revamped with improved transport infrastructure, outdoor parks and squares, world-class sports facilities, and a gorgeous Olympic Sports Complex. There has been a marked take-over by entrepreneurs in recent times, with edgy pop-up restaurants, quirky design collectives and boutique hotels. If you are after antiquities, then naturally a visit to the famed Acropolis needs to be on your list, take a pleasant walk down Vasilissis Sofias Avenue which houses the main museums such as The Byzantine and Christian Museum full of treasured sacred icons and impressive mosaics, also an ideal spot for a rest in their gardens. The Benaki Museum is the place to go for the artistic to see the costumes of days gone by as well as artworks.

The south of Athens has a pristine coastline with swish marinas. Thessaloniki is the second largest city. The best view is from the Byzantine walls. The Arch of Galerius commemorates the victory over the Persians, although only 3 of the arches (previously 8) are still there, the landmark and the city’s main meeting point, is still a sight to behold. Nearby is the bustling shopping area of Egnatia. The iconic White Tower stands proud at the pretty waterfront packed with enticing bars and restaurants.

Patras is the third largest city in Greece known for hosting the Patrino Karnavali annually, the biggest event of its kind in Greece, which started 180 years ago, inspired by the masquerade balls thrown in the mansions of the local bourgeoisie. Elegant mansions can be seen in the city centre and ancient sites such as the Roman Oden, Medieval Castle and the church of Saint Andrew; protector of the town, make for intriguing excursions.

The beach promenade serves as a relaxing environment to sit with a cup of Greek coffee taking in the sights.

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Tangine in fez

Crete - Hersonissos - Spinaloga Island - Credit Region of Crete

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ISLANDS

Mykonos

The most popular islands are Crete, Rhodes, Corfu the Dodecanese island cluster including Kos and the Cyclades island cluster including Mykonos. The islands contribute to the unique morphology of Greece and are well known throughout the world as idyllic holiday locations. Out of the 6000 islands only 227 islands are inhabited.

Crete is the largest Greek island and the fifth largest island in the Med. One of the best ways to explore the island is on a driving tour through the picturesque villages, the snorkel worthy clean beaches and canyons. If you are a hiker trek Europe’s longest gorge or for something more laid-back, stroll through the welcoming orchards of Lasithi Plateau. History buffs can delve into the time when Minoans ruled around 4000 years ago with trips to excavations such as the Palace of Knossos.

Mykonos is known to be a glamorous party island but offers so much more. Mythology states that Mykonos was formed from the rotten bodies of giants killed by Hercules and the capital Hora is one of the leading examples of Cycladic architecture. The fashionable Matoyánni Street hosts a plethora of bars, high-end shops and restaurants. Alefkántra or “Little Venice” as it is also known is regarded as one of the most scenic areas; this 18th century district houses many Instagram worthy magnificent mansions. Known as “Island of the Winds”, Mykonos is a haven for surfers and sailors.

Add the peppery flavoured ‘kopanistí’ soft cheese speciality to your ‘to eat list’ you won’t regret it.

Rhodes is famed for its fabulous Crusader castles and frescoed churches, a visit to the walled old medieval town certainly has an air of stepping back in time. It is said that this island has the longest summer period of them all. The ancient town of Lindos is crammed with cute whitewashed residential houses and alleys packed with artisan shops, to top it off is the much visited Acropolis.

Corfu, the lushest of the Greek islands, thanks to the frequent rain and abundance of olive trees makes for an authentic rural adventure.

Go to Kérkyra Old Town and see the fascinating Archaeological Museum, Museum of Asian Art and the Byzantine Museum for a rich understanding of the island. If you have time, it is worth popping over for a day trip to the timeworn town of Butrint in Albania, as well as a visit to the accessible idealized islets of Mathráki, Othoní, Paxi Eríkoussa and Andipaxi.

Thessaloniki - City Photos

Crete - Heraklion by Region of Crete

Easter in Corfu by region of Ioanian Islands

New Acropolis Museum Credit N. Daniilidis, visitgreece.gr

Street of the Knights by Rodos Tourism Promotion Organization

Thessaloniki - White Tower - K Kouzouni Athens Acropolis - by Kavalierakis, visitgreece.gr

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Aristi Mountain Resort Aristi Mountain Resort

Voidomatis River

IN THE SPOTLIGHT… THERE’S MORE TO LIFE THAN SUN AND SEA…

Most people associate Greece with a sunny city break or beachside holiday; yet, did you know Greece is 82% mountains and makes for a wonderful year-round holiday? In January this year I visited one of the 13 regions of Greece; Epirus in the north-west, to discover the peaks of a mountain holiday in Greece. I based myself at the luxurious Aristi Mountain Lodge, one of the ‘National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World’, presiding over the authentic Greek mountain village of Aristi, boasting otherworldly views, where guests are in the depth of nature. The lodge is a 4 hour drive from Thessaloniki, whereby you pass the highest mountain in Greece on the way; Olympus. With its highest peak Mytikas reaching 2,917m, it is understandable why it was thought by the ancients to be the home of the Gods and the throne to Zeus. The warm oasis of the stone walled restaurant was a contrast to the pretty pine trees dusted with snow that lined the roads we came on. Salvia, the resort’s swish restaurant is well known locally, serving Greek classics with a thoroughly modern innovative twist.

The chickpea purée with local lamb was melt-in-the-mouth delicious. Whilst being incredibly chilly (one of the top 3 coldest periods since 1913) it was still sunny and frankly the fairytale crisp white vistas were a sight to behold. ‘Trekking Hellas Ioannina’ organises a multitude of activities so guests can really appreciate their surroundings, from rafting, river trekking, hiking, canyoning, mountain biking, snowshoe guided walks, horse riding to classic walking tours.

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Vikos Gorge Rafting with Trekking Hellas Ioannina

Aristi Village

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Aristi Mountain Lodge

Aristi Mountain Lodge

Aristi Mountain Lodge

Aristi Mountain Lodge

Apostolis, my tour guide, brimming with information gave me insightful historical background as we drove along the oak-tree lined roads to visit some of the 46 villages of the municipality of Zagori.

There is such a unity among the stone and wood houses, roughly the same size, none of them exceeding the dimensions of the largest old mansion, this is because 35 of the villages have been declared ‘traditional settlements’ by the government, thus there are building restrictions imposed resulting in a beautifully preserved atmosphere. Invasions from Italy, Germany and civil war caused 11 of the villages to be built from scratch, but Dilofo protected by the two hills in which it is sandwiched, is one of the original villages and worth a visit. It is here that alongside traditional architecture of the houses you will be able to see the biggest mansion in Zagori – dated 1850. The villages are normally built around a well as the centerpiece. The central square, sheltered by a huge plane tree where proud red-breasted robins can be seen in winter, is where the community come together. There is a patriotic heritage held by the locals who like to recount that unlike the rest of Greece, Dilofo and many other local villages were never under the Ottoman Empire rule, Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

Mushroom Pudding at Kanela & Garyfallo

this is due to a mixture of the tough terrain and they say to the strength of the mountain peoples’ disposition. In days gone by, the rich locals were merchants, they would sell the local wool which the village woman had worked on their looms and brought back olive oil to the mountains, they’d build big mansions, schools, churches as well as bridges. There are 108 bridges in Zagori, the oldest dated 980, with 5 of the most impressive in Kippi village. Having visited 4 of the most picture worthy, they are set within fantastical landscape. Aristi helped preserve a quaint 1665 church and as a thank you they were given the key, so that only guests of the resort may enter, an exclusive excursion worth taking up.

The most popular time to travel to Zagori would be April-October to combine mountains and sea, that said, I’m assured winter is unique. You are alone, just you, your tour guide and the cows! Also in winter you can see the scenic streams that are dried up in summer. Touring in Northern Pindos National Park, it is something to consider that the 20,000 square kilometers, is the most important in the EU in terms of biodiversity of flora, with more than 3000 different types of species. No wonder Pindos is in the top five trails in the world. Many come far and wide to gape at Vikos; listed as the deepest gorge in the world by the Guinness Book of Records, staring down at the slices of rock 190 million years old, really reminds you what a magical world it is. One of the most memorable excursions has to be water rafting in officially the cleanest river in the EU, ‘Voidomatis’, during an arctic blast resulting in a sublime snowy panorama backdrop. The evening meal was a ‘special’ cooked by chef Paris, not disappointing with delectable home smoked trout, chard & Greek mountain greens with herb coulis & sheep yogurt. A cup of mountain tea sweetened with local floral honey, book in hand, sat by a roaring fire concluded a dynamic day.

Whilst you’d be forgiven for wanting to eat only at Salvia, a visit to nearby mushroom restaurant; ‘Kanela & Garyfallo’ is a must. The restaurant uses 30 types of mushrooms throughout the year. Mushroom enthusiast and the man behind the menu, Vassily Katsoupas, also has one of the best wine cellars in the area for you to enjoy. Indulge in dishes such as a 5 type local Mushroom ‘cappuccino’ (frothy) soup, with homemade bread, organic olive oil and pickled wild mushrooms; a fresh salad with dried mushrooms; mountain truffle Dakos (barley & wheat filled rusks) with goats cheese, minced button mushroom with truffle butter, topped with more shaved truffle & grated goats cheese; free range chicken with Caesar’s mushroom (Caesar’s favourite) and Ouzo cream over egg noodles. However, it was the pudding, possibly the most unusual pudding I’ve had to date, that created a standout memory; sweet caramelised chanterelles with orange peel and ginger on top of strained yogurt, fabulous. Not as bizarre as one might think, Greece, like Turkey and other countries serve something called a ‘spoon sweet’ to guests, essentially a candied piece of citrus peel, baby aubergine, walnut, or in Epirus a mushroom! But putting it together in a pudding with village yogurt and ginger tastes immense. Almost worth the trip alone. https://www.aristi.eu/en

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CUSISINE SCENE

Dates Delicious

Yasemen Kaner-White

D

on’t underestimate the date.

The story of dates, dates back a long way in history, cited in religious tomes from the bible to the Quran. They are grown as ornamental trees along the Mediterranean shores of Europe, and their leaves are used in the celebration of the Christian Palm Sunday and the Jewish Feast of Tabernacles. They are the key to Ramadan, with a date traditionally being the first item eaten after the sun goes down. Dates also feature prominently in Eid al-Fitr, the feast in which Ramadan culminates, featuring in cakes such as ma’amoul; an ancient Arab biscuit stuffed with dates. In America, the annual peak of sales of dates occurs firstly during Christmas and then Ramadan. This sticky tasty dried fruit, first made its appearance in the UK during the early medieval period, though they have come a long way since the 1950’s; from the shrivelled up varieties often served at Christmas, to fresh plump dates now being available in specialty grocers, a tip is to buy them unripe and freeze them to eat like ice cream. Chefs such as Yotam Ottolenghi have populurised date molasses, elevating the humble date. Medjool dates are known to be the ‘king’ of dates, though common enough to be eaten daily and found readily in supermarkets. One of the “fruits of paradise” in Islamic tradition. The date palm tree is often referred to as the ‘Tree of Life’, and a legend says they have been made from the dust that was left over after the creation of Adam.

Dates have even been fermented and used

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to make an alcoholic beverage called arrak, written about by the sixteenth-century traveller Pedro Texeira described as “the strongest and most dreadful drink ever invented.” Dates are harvested in late autmun and early winter, but they store quite well, so they are available year-round.

Date palms begin bearing fruit in 4 to 5 years and reach full bearing at 10 to 15 years, they yield 40 to 80 kg or even more per palm.

Palms are known to live as long as 150 years, but their fruit production declines. Dried dates initially came from north Africa, via Arab and Venetian traders, owing to their high sugar content, they were a perfect form of imported food, easily transported, lasting well. In the days when sugar was ludicrously expensive, they appeared in the medieval diet in a variety of dishes, by the 1660’s, they featured in sauces for meat and fish, not dissimilar to a tagine.

Islamic cooking styles, from Arab, Persian and Byzantine cookery had a large impact on the culinary creations in the royal court.

Later, dates were incorporated into extravagant salads accompanying fresh herbs and salad leaves, topped with pine nuts and other dried fruit. However for a very long time dates were considered an impossibly exotic luxury, an expensive item bought by upper classes for special occasions. In years gone by people relied on a diet of fatty meat, hard brown bread, perhaps some herring and select vegetables, making dates even more stand out.

They were a taste of a land faraway, sunshine, and there was a real romance about them.

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Mona-Mok

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CUISINE SCENE

The sweet treat that a date is, is more than 50% sugar by weight and contains roughly 2% each protein, fat and mineral matter.

Nawal Nasrallah a food writer and researcher has written a book dedicated to the dried fruit; Dates: A Global History. In Dates, Nasrallah draws on her experience of growing up in the lands of ancient Mesopotamia, where the date palm was originally cultivated. Dried dates unusually can be used for making a savoury ‘cupid’s omelette’, mentions Nasrallah, which is thought to be an aphrodisiac, particularly when eaten alongside a glass of fresh carrot juice.

“Mix 90g chopped dates and 2 tbsp butter in a medium frying pan and heat until the dates soften. Pour over three eggs, slightly beaten, and carefully fold until set. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and cinnamon”, she says. Nasrallah describes the important role the date palm has played in the economy of the Middle East, telling the tales that explore the etymology, history, culture, religion, myths, and legends surrounding them. It is believed that the date palm may have represented fertility in humans in ancient Mesopotomia. According to some, Inanna, the Goddess associated with love, beauty, sex, desire, fertility, war, justice, and political power, was also the Goddess of the Date Storehouse.

One of my favourite places to get a coffee in London, and also Dubai, is from Bateel, a café dedicated to the date, go there for grassy flavoured cardamon infused traditional Qahwa coffee and the best dates in town. Gazing at row upon row of delectable differing dates; chubby and juicy, others dried and raison-like and some the most gorgeous hue of labrador brown, there is a huge selection to choose from. Bateel, backed by the Saudi family, is the only place in London that sell ‘second stage dates’. “The English don’t know much about

dates, they always go for Medjool” the waitress tells me. Dates come in three stages, first are balah, seen around April/May; crunchy, light yellow and some say sour. Second are rhutab; my favourite, allowed to soften on the tree, fudgy and guaranteed to inspire finger licking.

Lastly, when the moisture has been sucked out by the sun, they are called tamr; think chewy toffee. Ajwa are the most expensive at £75 per kilo but worth it!

When it comes to the leading countries producing the most dates, which are the top three?

1. E gypt comes out top in terms of date production and cultivation. Each year, they produce approximately 1,084,529 metric tons of dates, representing 17% of global date production but only 3% of world exports. The country has increased date cultivation by more than 100% since 1993 and currently has an estimated 15,582,000 date palm trees. Where do the dates go? Just over half, 53%, of exported Egyptian dates are imported by Morocco, closely followed by Indonisia (24%) and Malaysia (15%). The total export value is around $41.8 million.

2. I ran follows Egypt, producing 947,809 metric tons annually, accounting for approximately 7.7% of total world exports.

Their biggest importers are India (16%), Malaysia (11%) and Russia (9.9%).

3. S audi Arabia, produces 836,983 metric tons per year. Incredibly, 388,000 acres of their land is dedicated to date palms. They export 8.8% of the world’s dates, which totals around $94.3 million. Their main importers are Jordan (19%), Yemen (17%), and Kuwait (15%).

Bunch of Dates; Rupert Parker

Date Palm; Rupert Parker

© Bateel

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Date Palms, St Anthony’s Monastery in Egypt; Petra Shepherd

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WORLD LEADING COUNTRIES GROWING FRESH DATES RANK

COUNTRY

ANNUAL METRIC TONS

1 EGYPT 1,084,529 2 IRAN

947,809

3

836,983

SAUDI ARABIA

4 IRAQ

675,440

5 PAKISTAN

556,608

6

533,701

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

7 ALGERIA

485,415

8 SUDAN

435,668

9

432,100

SOUTH SUDAN

10 OMAN 239,397

Khidri

Wanan

Ajwa

Kholas

Madjool

Sokari

© Bateel

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CUISINE SCENE

The Caribbean Island of

Nevis Knows All About Mangoes Yasemen Kaner-White

Annually, Nevis plays host to the most memorable mango festival globally.

Nevis, an island usually found in the same sentence as ‘St Kitts’, packs a powerful punch alone, particularly for pleasure-seeking epicureans craving a memorable and flavourful cuisine. The sun shines on the island year-round, but I’d recommend a trip in July during the annual ‘Nevis Mango And Food Festival’ for a unique local experience.

B

efore I even landed, my food adventure began. The lady sat next to me on the plane, Deborah, a Nevisian, talked me through the importance of sugar in the cuisine, they even mix their curry powder with a little.

Hardly surprising seeing as the island was once the flowerbed of the sugarcane industry but no longer - the cane could not compete with sugar beet prices. 75% of the land in Nevis used to be sugar plantations. Her drink, like a true Nevisian is a ‘Killer Bee Sting’ from Sunshine’s Bar, a local rum laced cocktail. She warned with a wry smile “don’t have more than one, otherwise you’ll see double and feel single”. Armed with her Mango chow (spicy chutney) recipe, I met the driver at the airport and headed to Nisbet. Tim Thuell the General Manager greeted me with Nisbet’s signature welcome drink; ‘Avenue of Palms’ a coconut rum, fresh fruit concoction.

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I highly recommend basing yourself, as I did, in a quaint bungalow framed by palm trees at iconic Nisbet Plantation Beach Club, known as the Caribbean’s only beachfront historic plantation inn. Owner David Dodwell visited 12 islands before he decided on Nisbet.

“I was looking for something with potential that needed to be polished”. Whilst the hotel is four-star, expect five-star quality, an authentic Caribbean feel and staff who greet you by name. You’ll remember their name too, as they are genuinely friendly taking an interest in your interests with tips and recommendations on what to see, do and most importantly… eat! The food at the hotel is fresh and locally sourced, but my favourite had to be the much talked about island wide famed - ‘Thursday BBQ’. Attended by locals and guests dancing together at the beach bar, to a symphony of sea waves and live DJ island beats. The open buffet includes an array of seasonal salads, BBQ

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Fifth Chukker Nisbet Beach Magazine | Issue 14

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fresh mahi mahi, kingfish, snapper, tuna, Caribbean lobster (crayfish), mussels, tiger shrimps and for meat lovers sirloin steak, Nevisian pork stew and chicken with rice, fresh veg, crispy plantain and of course hot pepper sauce. There is always one member of staff that stands out, and for me, it was Roselyn, she took me to her local church and gave me a tambourine, where we danced to each psalm with the congregation dressed in their best with beaming smiles, an experience I urge you to do also.

The capital of Nevis is Charlestown and easily manoeuvred by foot. Worth a day’s visit for the rustic restaurants, jewel coloured houses, scenes like fisherman descaling freshly caught amberjack under the palms and a museum to boot. It was in the centre of Charlestown that I embarked, along with 7 others, on a cooking class led by Seamus Mullen, award-winning New York City chef. Naturally, being part of the mango festivities, the dish included mango; a mahi mahi fillet paired with a mango and coriander chutney, simple yet sublime. I had already in fact had my fill of mango, having saved a few from being squashed on the roadside.

I skinned them then and there, sucking out the silky sweet flesh, frankly the way every mango should be devoured. Just like lemon trees in the Med, mango trees can be found randomly, ready to be picked.

Other merrymaking mango treats include a mango tasting at Cades Bay. Oofficially there are 44 mango varieties on the island, though some claim over a hundred. With twenty-one types on display and ten to try, guests certainly get a cross section of tastes. Running the talk was Ronald King the Extension Officer full of facts on the mouthwatering fruit. “Eating mangoes is

From top, left to right: Mango Festival Chefs Mango Tasting Nevis The Great House at Night, Nisbet Competition Time at the Mango Festival Chef Sylvester Wallace Yasemen at the Cooking Class in Charleston

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TRAVEL COVERING THE CONTINENTS

Mixologist, David Barker Demonstration

about getting dirty, though not too dirty as mango stains are hard to get out, you know when it is ready, when picked off the tree, the sap mustn’t run out”, he said.

We learnt all about the good for slicing ‘Graham’ mango, the gobstopper-like ‘Teeny’ mango, the strong flavoured fibrous and most expensive ‘Amory Polly’ mango, the almost savoury ‘Valencia’ mango and my favourite, the citrusy and ideal for making mango chips; ‘Julie’ mango. Other stand out names include; cornmeal mango (tastes like porridge), Donkey mango, Full-belly mango and Golden Nuggets mango.

Another highlight of the festivities includes the celebrity chef dinner at the beautiful Botanical Gardens. 2018 saw Iron Chef Judy Joo, Celebrity Chef Seamus Mullen and Caribbean Chef Michael Harrison collaborate to present a one-off mango mania dinner, infusing flavours from their retrospective Korean, American and Caribbean backgrounds.

Not only was the setting sensational and also attended by the Premier of Nevis himself, Hon. Mark Brantley, the creative mango saturated dishes were inspiring.

The mango week culminates with the all-

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Ronald King, the Extension Officer

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Events

CUISINE SCENE

Lobster Sandwich at Golden Rock

Local House

important Nevisian Chefs Mango Feast at Oualie Beach. Throughout the day, expect uplifting music, chef competitions and more mango tasting. The spotlight is on the local talented chefs who each present a mango infused dish for festival goers to taste as well as mango offerings from most of the restaurants in Nevis, a blend of healthy competition and creative culinary extraordinaire rule in this fun day out.

When it comes to restaurants there is a broad range from aweinspiringly authentic restaurants such as ‘Flavours’ run by Sylvester Wallace to high-end eateries.

At Flavours expect hunks of tender lightly spiced pork, juicy jerk chicken, incredible rice and beans and sticky plantain. When I went I was the only foreigner - always a great sign. The Four Seasons, owned by Bill Gates and some argue the hotel that put Nevis on the map is due to open their EsQuilina and Crowned Monkey Rum Bar soon, where a Spanish charcoal oven will be a primary focus.

Executive Chef Samuel Faggetti told me “we use a large amount of locally grown products throughout the different growing seasons”.

A firm favourite is Hermitage in Gingerland, housing the oldest

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room in Nevis, it’s made from iron wood owing to its longevity.

Owned by Richard Lupinacci, the offerings are truly traditional, not to mention the homely décor. I opted for homemade black bean soup and local short ribs, with homemade ginger beer. Expect “traditional meals that you’d have in the Caribbean” said Richard.

An essential stop has to be to Golden Rock to get your hands on their 7oz lobster salad and 3.5oz lobster sandwich, a lot of lobster but luscious. Montpellier is a swish restaurant and has the best ‘Mangocolada’ mocktail.

As well as offering a wide array of tasty dishes to try, Nevis is the best of Caribbean, the place to come and relax - the real Caribbean. Diving, hot springs, boat trips, horseback riding, hiking, and rich history (Alexander Hamilton’s birthplace), can be explored. Don’t skip on a rum tour; you’ll see the backstreets that benefit from a local guide.

By going in out of season July, you’ll enjoy the island with the locals; reap rewards of hotel offers and still soak up the sun, as the locals say…you’ll be “Cooking on gas”!

Mahi Mahi and Mango Relish

Mango Cinnamon Roll

https://nevismangofest.com https://nisbetplantation.com

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Golden Rock Lobster Salad

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GOOD BOOKS – BOOK REVIEW

The Wisdom Paradox Elkhonon Goldberg Frances K. White For those of us in our second half-century, this educational page-turner diminishes fears us ‘oldies’ have that we’ll see out our final years with brains ‘withered on the vine’!

For ‘youngsters’ yet to leave their first half century behind, this educational page-turner provides realistic hope their mental acuity can remain as sharp as ever – life literally being ‘a game of two halves’ as opposed to the reductive division of ‘good half; bad half’.

So says Goldberg; a renowned neuropsychologist, cognitive neuroscientist and Clinical Professor of Neurology at New York University School of Medicine, who; perhaps germane to his approach, describes himself an atheist ‘with agnostic tendencies’ by that I mean, Goldberg relies on scientific facts.

To the layman, a lot of Goldberg’s narrative appears as linguistic gymnastics; terminology oftentimes needing to be studied, but attempting to encapsulate Goldberg’s main belief, one takes from this book that as the mature brain diminishes in some directions, it improves and advances in others, Goldberg naming this ‘wisdom’. He uses the analogy of ‘spring’, aligning it to the embryonic state onwards, when neurons start forming, to young adulthood establishing skill sets and cognitive capacities; onto ‘summer’, when the body has matured, neurons having stabilised (the age most researched and when skill sets are practically applied), through to ‘autumn’ the time of ageing, when the brain starts atrophying 2% a decade. Goldberg cites Reagan, amongst others, who, whilst clearly declining in mental capacity, still had decision making abilities equal to the demands of Office. In contrast, amongst others, he mentions Golda Meir as not particularly notable in her youth yet achieving memorable accomplishments as she aged, proof he posits, of learned responses to familiar formats.

Ageing causes blood vessels to narrow, allowing less oxygen to reach the brain, but a PET scan, using a special dye containing

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radioactive tracers, has shown those proficient in the ‘autumn’ years need less brain resources.

In essence, Goldberg states facts and understanding absorbed throughout one’s lifetime, enables an ‘aging’ person to make swift judgements reaching solid conclusions.

He illustrates this by dividing memory into two – singular (remembering clearly a particular detail or circumstance) and generic (acknowledging a broader spectrum), the former gleaned, albeit with some deterioration present, the latter meaning generic memory remains, indeed, becoming more significant.

In some ways Goldberg’s theories makes one think of Will Eaves’s novel, Murmur, an imagining of being Alan Turing, whose incredible brain broke the Enigma code, wherein is asked “at what point {does} unconscious material become conscious”.

The universal thought that getting older means losing one’s faculties is often due

to group polarisation of people becoming firmer and more extreme in their views when discussing with like-minded others, leaving little room for differing opinions, reinforcing the negative, whereas Goldberg believes, simply training oneself to have an organised mind, is the portal to longevity in memory and ability.

Where I think this books falls in its 300+ pages, is much repetition, for instance, regarding left and right hemispheric functionality, ie: the left for acquired patterns and the right a bigger role in attaining new patterns, therefore more detrimentally affected by ageing. That said, alongside 10% of the population, I’m left handed, do those principles still apply? Notably, 8 POTUS were left handed, many in their mature years, Obama, Garfield, Hoover, Truman, Ford, Reagan, H.W. Bush and Clinton, similarly, many of the losing candidates. It’s said, ‘lefties’ are believed capable of “a wider scope of thinking,” which could explain the large proportion of creative, as well as Nobel Prize, winners. Brain scientists and cognitive psychologists believe handedness is related to lateralization of the brain, though this is yet to be empirically proven. Basically what Goldberg is saying, engaging in mental exercises in our first half-century, will resonate in our second half; in contrast, what we don’t mentally experience or achieve, again will negatively resonate in our latter years. But, do we not all know instinctively or by observation, that mental exercise; solving puzzles, working out solutions, being inquisitive and continually learning, is how one keeps senility at bay?

Although someone once said ‘Age is inevitable, Aging isn’t’, unhappily, until scientists like Goldberg can definitively prevent for those unfortunate to suffer them; Dementia, Alzheimers or Parkinson’s, his premise can’t apply to all.

That aside, let’s end with the erstwhile Robert Browning (1812-1889) who said “Grow old along with me! The best is yet to be.”

Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

GOOD BOOKS – BOOK REVIEW

The Death of Truth Michiko Kakutani Frances K. White Having won a Pulitzer prize for criticism, the author is well placed to write this polemic on the 45th incumbent, Republican POTUS; Donald Trump. The celebrated Japanese/ American literary critic; notably former chief book critic for The New York Times until she stepped down in 2017, makes known her contempt of the current administration in an openly condemnatory narrative of 173 succinct pages, albeit there are a further 30 pages of references/acknowledgements. Does that tell us she is correct in her fears for democracy and the State of the Union, and all that they stand for?

Or rather a case of; “look many others share my views”. One does find a plethora of quotes and opinions of others through this slender volume with little discussion or debate upon them…ergo – noticeable by its absence, any solutions stated to what she abhors…basically throughout it’s what Kakutani and many others think, as opposed to why they think it…

Kakutani puts her present-day censure firmly in the cross-hairs of social media; for instance, Trump quoting on twitter (one of his many conduits) fake news from Russian sources, this, alongside academia, politics and literature, the latter whereby she quotes ‘1984’ and ‘Animal Farm’ George Orwell’s brilliant, iconic novels, as analogously showing how ‘political manipulation’ by a collective of protagonists have brought about the failure of society at large to see the bigger picture the ‘morally bankrupt’ Trump is visiting, not only on USA, but said impairment reverberating globally.

Whilst Russia tops the list of hypocrites (think Stalin and Lenin) Hitler and Mussolini are also tarred with the same brush.

Trump seems to view his mendacity (the Washington Post calculated Trump made distorted or fabricated claims 2,140 times in his initial year in Office, circa 5.9 daily) and actions as acceptable collateral damage for the greater good, ignoring the indisputable fact his language and new protocols have brought about an intensifying climate of xenophobia, fear of social change and disorder. Kakutani sees him as a wanton narcissist, an example being, the

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old national motto ‘E pluribus unum’ (Out of many, one) has been removed from Trump’s commemorative presidential coins and replaced with his own simplistic statement ‘Make America Great Again.’ She also quotes, in chapter 3, Christopher Lasch saying 1970 was the blossoming of that aforementioned climate, Lasch seeing narcissism as “a defensive reaction to social change and instability - looking out for number one in a hostile, threatening world”. This; alongside mass-media beliefs placing emphasis on celebrity, with the role of family diminishing in communicating culture.

Kakutani likewise references the late German philosopher and political theorist Hannah Arendt’s 1971 essay ‘Lying in Politics’ wherein she talks of ‘organised lying of groups, nations, or classes…’ saying ‘facts need trustworthy witnesses to be established…’. Kakutani extends her ‘fake’ theme to include fake history, such as Holocaust deniers, Nazi propaganda and anti-vaccinators.

Trump’s administrations’ arrogance involved ignoring the Army Chief of Staff’s recommendation that several hundred thousand soldiers would be needed in post-war Iraq, as opposed to a Rumsfeld ally declaring it would “be a cake-walk”, triggering calamitous consequences, proving nothing was remembered of the disastrous Bush administration’s management of that misguided invasion, which Trump himself criticised at the time. Kakutani also reminds us that Trump oftentimes ‘sits on the fence’ such as when commenting on demonstrations in Charlottesville between white supremacists and neo-Nazis, he declared there were “some very fine people on both sides”.

Further on, Kakutani refers to ‘confirmation bias’ whereby people of one persuasion embrace material supporting their paradigms, and discard anything that doesn’t, without even challenging or debating the opposing view…this she puts down to emotional rather than intellectual responses, as well as group dynamics. She also is contemptuous of Republicans who, rather than speak their minds (unless ‘off the record’)! ignore Trump’s obvious failings and untruths, his hiring of unsuitable candidates for significant posts and woeful dismantling of established foreign and domestic policies, just to keep their Office position safe.

Finally, in her Epilogue, Kakutani quotes Neil Postman’s book Amusing Ourselves To Death, wherein he sees a dichotomy between Aldous Huxley’s Brave New World, where society leads “soporific lives, deadened by drugs and frivolous entertainment” to Orwell’s 1984, in which “people live under the crushing autocratic role of Big Brother”.

Orwell fearing being deprived of information, and Huxley fearing truth ‘would be drowned in a sea of irrelevance’ Let’s finish with Kukutani’s chapter 6 headline:“We’er all islands shouting lies to each other across seas of misunderstanding” Rudyard Kipling, 1890.

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GLOBAL EVENTS

GO WHERE THE ACTION IS No matter what month it is, somewhere around the world there is an event not to be missed, here are a few to tempt you to travel…

SCOTLAND – 2ND-26TH AUGUST Every August for three weeks the city of Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, welcomes an explosion of creative energy from around the globe. Edinburgh Festival Fringe is an inspiring celebration of the best performance and entertainment from every continent of the planet.

With 53,232 performances of 3,398 shows in 300 venues in 2017 there are quite literally thousands of reasons to visit the Edinburgh Festival Fringe.

SEPTEMBER 2019

DIWALI 27TH OCTOBER

MAY 2019 CANNES FILM FESTIVAL, FRANCE – 14TH-25TH MAY Did you know prior to 2002 it was called the International Film Festival? Since then this world-wide film bonanza is known as the Cannes Film Festival; an annual film festival held in Cannes, France, previewing new films of all genres, including documentaries from all around the world

JUNE 2019 INTI RAYMI IN CUSCO, PERU – 24TH JUNE The southern hemisphere’s winter solstice, the ancient Inca capital of Cuzco hosting a re-enactment of the Inca’s tribute to the sun God, Inti. Follow the procession from the center of town to the fortress of

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Sacsayhuaman, and watch the spectacle unfold. Don’t forget that Cuzco – located high in the Andes – is also a good base for visiting the ruins at Machu Picchu.

JULY 2019 WIMBLEDON, ENGLAND – 1ST-14TH JULY Longstanding highlight of Britain’s sporting calendar, Wimbledon is a quintessentially English experience – along with watching whilst eating strawberries and cream. Either use the ballot to secure well-priced tickets ahead of time, stand in line to grab top seats on the day or book ahead and splash out if you’re a real tennis fan.

AUGUST 2019 EDINBURGH FRINGE FESTIVAL,

OKTOBERFEST, GERMANY – 21ST SEPTEMBER – 6TH OCTOBER Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany, is the kind of thing that gets better with age, like whiskey, fine wine, or the leather of your lederhosen. Each year between six and seven million people are finding this out for themselves. There are two specific times to consider attending Oktoberfest are the opening ceremony and the closing ceremony. Both are spectacular in their own ways and equally tough to get into. Oktoberfest 2019 will have all the signature Oktoberfest special events like the costume parade, family day, traditional Bavarian concerts, and more.

OCTOBER 2019 DIWALI, INDIA – 27TH OCTOBER Diwali is one of the most important Hindu festivals in India but the colourful customs and meanings associated with it can vary depending on where you travel in the country. In the north, Diwali is often a raucous affair, marked by a cacophony of firecrackers on the streets and a flourish of ceremonial gambling in Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

GLOBAL EVENTS

WIMBLEDON 1ST-14TH JULY

DAY OF THE DEAD 1ST-2ND NOVEMBER

of life and death. A time for family and friends to get together, pray and remember those who have passed and to help support their spiritual journey.

Over two days cities and towns all over Mexico host parades and parties, dance, and make offerings to those lost. The skulls and skeletons make for colourful costumes as well as foods like sweets which is giving to the living and the dead.

Some of the best celebrations take place in Patzcuaro and Tuxtepec.

DECEMBER 2019

CANNES FILM FESTIVAL 14TH-25TH MAY the home. The wealthier urban dwellers splurge on gold, jewellery, clothes and expensive gifts such as electronics, which they buy for themselves and their loved ones. The annual dates of Diwali are as fluid as types of revelry you’ll find. It’s generally celebrated for five days, with Fifth Chukker Magazine | Issue 14

the biggest day being the third one.

NOVEMBER 2019 DAY OF THE DEAD, MEXICO – 1ST-2ND NOVEMBER Day of the dead isn’t a Mexican version of Halloween it’s actually a celebration

CHICHIBU YOMATSURI, JAPAN – DEC 2 – TUESDAY, DEC 3 Based around the city’s Shinto shrine.

Huge floats – weighing up to 20t – are on display at the 2,000-year-old Chichibu Shrine before being pulled through the streets up to the plaza in front of the city hall. Decorated with lanterns, tapestries and gilded wood, some floats are big enough to stage kabuki theatre. The climax, during which participants are guaranteed to work up a sweat, is when the floats are hauled up a steep slope to the plaza on the final evening. The reward is a spectacular firework display lighting up the winter sky.

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Hon. Babatunde Fashola, Nigeria Minister of Power, Works and Housing

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