Eat Sussex March / April 2009

ISSUE 9 • MARCH/APRIL 2009

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Contents

COMMENT

CONTENTS

W

ELCOME TO Issue 9 of Eat

Sussex Magazine. As ES readers, we know that you value locally produced food and that you choose to spend your money on independent shops and businesses. We’ve been giving some thought of late to how we, and the companies that you so vitally support, can give you a little something back to say thank you for your custom. We’ve come up with the Eat Sussex Readers’ Club Card to help you enjoy the best bargains, exclusive special offers and generous discounts from ES advertisers and the best thing is that it’s absolutely free! To find out how you can get your very own Club Card, check out our back cover and start enjoying some great deals in some of the best local shops, cafes pubs and restaurants in Sussex.

Your loyalty is vital to the small familyowned shops and pubs, cafes and restaurants that are such a vital part of our community.

In this time of recession, we all having to tighten our belts but your business will make the difference between survival and going under for many local companies during the coming months.We’ve lost too many wonderful family-run businesses to the seemingly unstoppable onward march of the massive supermarket giants in this country and we really can’t afford to lose any more.

Pubs are now closing at a rate of nearly 40 a week and even celebrity chefrun restaurants are not immune to the downturn. It’s time for us all to make a deliberate decision to support our local businesses. For many village shops, pubs and restaurants it really is a case of ‘use it or lose it’ so this weekend, take a wander around your local shops and stop off for a coffee in the tea shop or enjoy pint in the pub on the way home. Book a meal for your family in your favourite independent eatery. Go on, enjoy yourself and help out some well-deserving nearby businesses at the same time. To paraphrase a certain shampoo ad, after all, you’re worth it.

Tony Leonard, Editor.

03 Comment

A few words from the editor.

05 News

All the news that’s fit to eat.

06 Column: Gilly Smith Gilly contemplates a change of lifestyle.

09 In my own words

Cathy Swingland and Will Sheffield, farmers, Clayton Organic Farm.

11 Peter Bayless: Something for the weekend

Peter’s thoughts turn to the high seas.

14 Recipes: In season

Spring recipes by Stephen Adams.

22 Best thing since sliced bread?

The Artisan Bakers who are changing British Bread for the better.

RECIPE FINDER

28 The Gastro-Gnome’s Guide to Forest Row The Gnome goes down to the woods today…

32 Recipes: Everything stops for tea Dominic McCartan dishes up some tasty teatime treats.

39 Drink Sussex: Micro-breweries Where small is definitely beautiful.

41 What’s on Farmers’ markets all around Sussex.

42 Column: The wild side

by Fergus Drennan Fergus lands a pike.

Cheese and Spinach Hommity Pies.........15

Old Fashioned Cherry Cake .....................32

Chocolate Chip Pastries with Chocolate Truffle Sauce and Vanilla Cream ...............21

Pan-Roasted Sea Trout with Carrot Pakoras

Earl Grey Tea Loaf.......................................36 Fruit and Nut Muesli Flapjacks..................33

and shredded Cabbage ............................11 Pan-seared Tripe with Japanese Curry ....16

Gooey Chocolate and Pecan Brownies ..33

Penne & Purple Sprouting Broccoli

Hogget (or Lamb or Mutton) Chops with Spiced Potatoes and Spinach & Parsley Sauce...........................................17

Parsely Pesto ...............................................16

with Leek, Carrot & Tomato Sauces and Pike Roe, Dulse, Kelp and Sea Purselane

Lemon Polenta Cake..................................36

Fish Cakes....................................................42

Liver with Roasted Vegetables, Bacon and Egg ...........................................18

Rhubarb Compote with French Toast......21

Millionaires’ Shortbread .............................35

Smoked Mackerel and Cockle Stew........15

Nanna Peggy’s Welsh Cakes.....................35

Spicy Beef and Vegetable Soup...............14

TO SUBSCRIBE

To make sure you always get your copy of Eat Sussex Magazine, why not take out a subscription. For just £12.50 for six issues, you can have Eat Sussex delivered straight to your door. Just send a cheque, payable to Eat Media Ltd, to Eat Media, 13 Middle St, Brighton, East Sussex BN1 1AL.

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March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 3

21/2/09 10:38:35

Grow Your Own Food

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Celebrating 15 years supplying qualtiy, hand-made cakes and savouries to caterers and retailers throughout the South East.

For more information visit www.lizziesfoodfactory.co.uk

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 4

21/2/09 10:38:36

News

Restaurant round up…

Sussex chef, Ben Mckellar, has scored a double whammy in the latest 2009 Michelin Guide with Bib Gourmands awarded to The Ginger Pig and The Ginger Fox. The Ginger Pig in Hove was surprised to receive the award last year within a year of opening but the restaurant has been joined this year by his Henfield site, The Ginger Fox, once again less than twelve months since it opened.

Other venues celebrating Bib Gourmands include The Meadow in Hove, The Wild Mushroom in Westfield, Terre a Terre in Brighton, St Clements in St Leonards and The Coach & Horses in Danehill, which has received the commendation for a record five successive years.

West Stoke House near Chichester and Ockenden Manor near Haywards Heath retained their Michelin stars while Gravetye Manor near East Grinstead lost its star in this year’s guide.

Meanwhile, Moonrakers Restaurant has put Alfriston on the map with two ‘forks and knives’. These are awarded to restaurants included in the guide and are on a scale of one to five. The guide says the restaurant, specialising in local, seasonal produce, “displays precise, flavoursome cooking.”

Also making a first appearance is Battle restaurant, Nobles, where chef proprietor Paul Noble’s regularly changing menu is described as: “unfussy classical dishes of local seasonal produce, with the occasional twist.”

The Black Pearl in Hastings is pleased to welcome new head chef, Fleur, formerly of Pilgrim’s in Battle. Given its location, the restaurant and brasserie naturally specializes in fresh seafood and a new bar menu of fresh ingredients means that there’s always something tasty to nibble over a drink.

Bailiffscourt Hotel & Spa has teamed up with award-winning Bookers Vineyard and crab and lobster specialist, Keith Birkett to present The Fully Traceable Sussex Supper on Thursday 12th March. The special five-course tasting menu has been devised by Martin Hadden, executive chef of Historic Sussex Hotels with each course matched to local wines.

The evening is priced at £80 per person, reservations are strongly recommended and can be made by calling 01903 723511. For those travelling from afar, a special rate of £60pp, B&B means that you don’t have to miss out on the those wonderful Sussex wines.

Brighton diners saddened by the closure of one of the city’s first gastro-pubs, The Chimney House can take heart that the venue has reopened with new owners determined to put as much love and passion into the venue as previous owners, Jackie and Lia. Andrew and Helen Coggings are no strangers to Brighton food-lovers as they also own the Preston Park Tavern. They’ve refurbished the pub, “to bring out the Victorian cosiness,” said Andrew. “And we’ve brought in a great new chef, George Stenning, who has created a wholesome and hearty winter menu, changing weekly to use seasonal ingredients.

OTHER EVENTS

The Mirabelle Restaurant at Eastbourne’s five-star Grand Hotel is celebrating its 20th anniversary this March. The restaurant is hosting a series of special events to celebrate the milestone, starting with a birthday dinner on Thursday, March 12th. Keith Mitchell — the Mirabelle’s opening head chef and now executive chef at the Grand — will join current head chef, Gerald Röser, to recreate the opening menu and wines served on March 10th 1989. The celebration dinner costs £65 per person. For diners who want to stay overnight, deluxe rooms will be available for £145, based on two sharing. For reservations and more information on the anniversary events, telephone 01323 412345.

E AT M E D I A LT D 13 MIDDLE STREET, BRIGHTON, EAST SUSSEX. BN1 1AL TEL: 01273 302968 FAX: +44 (0)1273 272643 www.eat-media.co.uk www.eatsussex.co.uk Eat Sussex Magazine: ISSN 1756-3003

WE ARE THE CHAMPIONS

And the winners are... from left to right: Nigel Heath, J Heath & Son – Sussex Butcher of the Year; Nick Hempleman, The Sussex Produce Company – Sussex Food Shop of the Year; Ben Goldsmith, Whites - Sussex Young Chef of the Year; Sally Jenner, Harvey & Son – Sussex Drink Producer of the Year; Andy Blick, Cromwells – Best Sussex Eating Experience; David Steadman, Shoreham Farmers Market – Best Sussex Farmers Market; Steve Hook, Longleys Farm – Sussex Farmer of the Year; Mark Strachan, The Relish in Spice Company – Sussex Food Producer of the Year

This year’s Sussex Food & Drink Awards attracted record numbers of public votes with over 7,500 nominations cast over the eight categories. Competition was stiff amongst the finalists, reflecting the extremely high quality of produce from the region. The winners received their awards at a celebration dinner in front of many high profile guests from the food and farming community of Sussex, among them Marguerite Patten OBE, High Sheriff of East Sussex, Hugh Burnett OBE, and Lord Lieutenant of East Sussex, Mr Peter Field. Those attending were relieved to hear, after widespread rumours about the annual event, that the awards’ future is now safe in the hands of Taste of Sussex.

WIN A BREAD BAKING COURSE AT LIGHTHOUSE BAKERY SCHOOL

The Lighthouse Bakery School is offering Eat Sussex readers the opportunity to win a one day bread-baking course at their famous school in East Sussex. Rachel and Elizabeth run a huge range of courses for everyone from complete beginners to accomplished bakers so there’s bound to be one that’s just right for you. During the day, a delicious home-made lunch will be provided and you’ll bring home everything you bake.

To enter, simply email: competition@eatsussex.co.uk or send a postcard to Competition, Eat Media Ltd, 13 Middle St, Brighton, East Sussex BN1 1AL with the answer to the following question: What are the four ingredients needed to make bread?

Entries must be received by Thursday 9th April and the winner will be drawn from a hat.

Congratulations to Gillian Holmes who won a raw chocolatemaking workshop with Leah Star in our last issue.

In season now Blood oranges Cauliflower Cockles Jersey Royal New Potatoes Leeks Mussels Purple sprouting broccoli

ADVERTISING SALES Emma Andrews Tel: 01273 579485 Email: emma@eatsussex.co.uk

PRODUCTION Dean Cook Tel: 01273 467579 Email: dean@eatsussex.co.uk

EDITORIAL Editor: Tony Leonard, Tel: 01273 302968 Email: tony@eatsussex.co.uk

P U B L I S H E R Dominic McCartan Tel: 01273 302968 Email: dominic@eatsussex.co.uk

Drinks EditoR: David Furer, Email: david@eatsussex.co.uk

P R I N T I N G Warners Midlands

Radishes Rhubarb Sea Trout Sorrel Watercress Wood pigeon © 2009 Eat Media Limited.

All rights reserved. Eat Sussex Magazine is edited, designed, and published by Eat Media Limited.

No part of Eat Sussex Magazine may be reproduced, transmitted, stored electronically, distributed, or copied, in whole or part without the prior written consent of the publisher. A reprint service is available.

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Opinions expressed in this journal do not necessarily reflect those of the editor or Eat Sussex Magazine or its publisher, Eat Media Limited.

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 5

21/2/09 10:38:38

Gilly Smith

Gilly Smith: More than we can chew Gilly Smith attempts to recapture her foodie childhood as she spurns the supermarket and takes her daughters Ellie (13) and LouLou (10) deep into the forests, farms and seas of Sussex to find their food.

E

6

llie’s life is closing in on her. Everyone she knows is eating their pets.

And I have to admit; I’m beginning to lose my own appetite for meat.

It’s a long road from Brighton to Planet Countryside. When we moved from the buzz of the seaside to the lazy plains of Bloomsburyshire three years ago, my plan to leave Sainsbury’s to the townies and go local was little more than a social experiment. Since then my shopping philosophy has gone through politics and health and out the other side until, inspired by the adventures of our fellow city resisters who moved from Preston Park to pig farming down the road, we are perched on the

verge of small-holding ourselves.

By the time you read this, we will have moved from our community of snow-balling school-bunkers with its veg plots and poly tunnel, horses and chickens and will be knee deep in pig poo. After dipping our toes in country life, we’re going in. Deep.

Well, deepish. The house we’re moving to is not only a cycle ride away but is part of a 21-acre estate with sheep, pigs and chickens roaming freely like something out of a Disney story.The boundaries were supposed to be set in stone — three acres for us and 18 for the vendor’s animals, but when I looked past the duck pond to the fields next door, a vision of my childhood, my parents’ and

grandparents’ and a fantasy I could impose upon my own children’s, pulled suddenly into sharp focus.

A quick word with the farmer, and the deal was done.

Co-farming, we shall call it.

He pays the bills and sells the meat and we feed, coo, clean and gambol with the animals. The kids’ lives will be transformed; it will have taken three years to pull them away from the TV to paddle in streams and make dens in the woods, but perhaps Wii will finally become something that we clean out of the chicken coop, and Friends will refer to our (almost) own lambs and piglets.

The sniff of a life in farming started for us here, in this community of 22 families with a vague interest in self sufficiency and co-owning a lot of animals.

It’s been fun spending the last three years feeding the chickens and gathering up the eggs on our chicken day, sitting in meetings discussing whether to get goats or llamas to chomp through our 25 acres in the interest of both Peak Oil and Climate Change.

And I dare say when food security leaps off the pages of The Guardian and into its back yard, the community will realise its true Good Life potential. In fact, as we move the last of our boxes out, they will be voting on the idea of raising chickens for eating for the first time.

For Ellie, that means it’s time to go.The country air has permeated her soul, but not quite as I might have imagined; where once she might have been thrilled to hear that baby chicks would be reared under hot lamps outside her mate Zoe’s house, her activist’s face is

set. “They’re going to eat them, aren’t they?” And she stomps off to pack another box.

I have tried to tell her about the pigs in the new place. And the sheep. Happily, she and her sister are still so excited about the colour of their new bedrooms and the 35-year-old horse in the garden that they have managed to put the reality of our new life on hold. Dave andVicky, our newlycountrified pals from Brighton who seemed so kind, so warm, are thumbing through their recipe books as Spring calmly and certainly beckons their pigs to the abattoir.

Luckily, Mother Nature, with a sweep of her magic wand, manages to turn the cutest of piglets into huge, snorting and slightly alarming beasts just before slaughter but even so, I’m beginning to worry about how I’m going to manage with the happy meat story when they’re my own. When Vicky’s escaped pigs tried to climb inside her car, I knew that they were heading straight for the key to the larder.

These are some of the most intelligent animals in the world and they know that ifVicky is late for dinner, the world really could be over.The fact that it will be in a couple of months is, I increasingly find, not worth thinking about.

As we pile the last sofa into the back of the car, I frantically redefine my foodie philosophy.

The way I see it is that our local butcher needs our business and it is our solemn duty to support all those local farmers by plying our trade in the proper manner. And while our chickens lay plentifully, their lives are not in danger. It’s a good eighteen months or so until we have to face the future of our lambs.They’re not even born yet, for God’s sake. No, as we head into a brave new world of smallholding, we’ll take it literally: holding small, sweet, squeaky things, bottle feeding the lambs and playing chess with the pigs.

And what’s wrong with beekeeping anyway? n For previous chapters, see eatingsussex.blogspot.com/

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 6

21/2/09 10:38:43

FINALISTS FOR THE SUSSEX FOOD & DRINK AWARDS - â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Best eating experience 2007/08 & 2008/09â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; FINALISTS FOR THE BRIGHTON & HOVE BUSINESS AWARDS - â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The best new kids on the block 2008â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

â&#x20AC;&#x153;While many pubs are trying to serve up local grub with a seasonal twist, the foragers have gone a step further. Several steps in factâ&#x20AC;? Mimi Spencer, The Observer â&#x20AC;&#x153; Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d always hoped the mantra â&#x20AC;&#x153;Think global, act localâ&#x20AC;? could be achieved by going to the pub-and now it canâ&#x20AC;? Terry Durack, restaurant critic of the year, Sunday Independent â&#x20AC;&#x153;The name says it all, this light cheery pub is hot on gathering greens from around East Sussex â&#x20AC;&#x153; Zoe Williams, Sunday Telegraph TUJSMJOH QMBDF t IPWF t FBTU TVTTFY t #/ :6 t UFM t XXX UIFGPSBHFSQVC DP VL t FNBJM UIF GPSBHFS!ZBIPP DP VL eat_sussex_hp_feb_09.indd 1

4/2/09 16:53:35

WARMING WINTER LUNCHES We would love to welcome you to Newick Park for lunch in our award-winning restaurant - at a very special price.

ÂŁ18.50 for 3 courses, ÂŁ15.50 for 2 courses.

Monday to Saturday until 31st March (excluding 14th February).

And if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re tempted to stay, then take advantage of our offer of Dinner, Bed and Breakfast from only ÂŁ85.00 per person.

NEWICK PARK, NEWICK, NR LEWES, EAST SUSSEX BN8 4SB Tel: +44 (0)1825 723633 Fax: +44 (0)1825 723969 Email: bookings@newickpark.co.uk

NP_190x134_Lunch.indd 1

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 7

Web: www.newickpark.co.uk

March/April 2009

5/2/09 11:18:56

21/2/09 10:38:48

clayton farm ORGANIC

award winning quality home produce from the heart of sussex

sustainable free range organic • home

reared farmhouse chicken

• succulent

Sussex beef

• woodland

reared pork

• southdown

and Romney

lamb • homemade

sausages/bacon/gammon

local breeds home produced totally traceable

Restaurant

Unwind Enjoy fabulous food in relaxed surroundings this Spring Sunday roast three courses £22.50 New Monthly Menu A La Carte Menu We are able to cater for weddings, parties and external catering needs Please contact us for more information

hen on the gate

newick lane, mayfield, east sussex TN20 6RE

wed-fri 9am-5pm, Saturday 9am-1pm telephone shop: 01435 874852 farm: 01435 874849

01825 721272 www.272restaurant.co.uk 20/22 High Street, Newick, East Sussex, BN8 4LQ

www.claytonorganicfarm.com certified organic by the Soil Association

feel good about farming, feel good about food

AA guide 2008

Michelin guide

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 8

21/2/09 10:38:48

In my own words

Cathy Swingland & Will Sheffield Farmers, Clayton Organic Farm

W

ill: I actually said

to you many, many times when you first bought the place, “What the hell are you doing? Farming’s hard enough, but organic? You must be mad.” I was dead set against it actually.

Cathy: I do remember.

Will:You took me to an organic meeting at Abbey Home Farm and I met the farm manager there and he was a professional, articulate, intelligent, obviously very skilled farmer and I thought, “Well, he’s not wearing sandals, he sounds relatively normal.”

As I got dragged, screaming and kicking, to more organic things I noticed a certain enthusiasm and vibrancy and excitement about farming which wasn’t there among conventional farmers at the time.

I have lots of friends who were farming conventionally and their lives were traumatic. It was around the foot & mouth outbreak and things were pretty dire.

Cathy: When we first got our hands on the buildings here they were virtually derelict.

Will:The whole place really, the buildings, the land, the animals, it was all in a state.

Cathy: It hadn’t been well looked after at all. From a farming point of view everything had been taken away.This side had been let and arable farmed for years.Year after year; the same crop on the same site.The rest was grass with no fences and a flock of sheep running all over. It had never been looked after.

Will: It was sheepsick.

Cathy: It’s the same with any monoculture.You get a build up of parasites and an unhealthy balance.

The soil felt dead. It had been battered into submission. Putting that right has probably been the most fulfilling thing.

Will:You’ve done an awful lot of stewardship which is now reaping benefits.

Cathy: We’ve planted a whole lot of trees and hedging plants because the whole thing was open. We laid lots of hedges and did lots of restoration work on the boundaries.

Will:We put in some ponds and there’s much more wildlife.Around the farm the hedges are encouraged to grow and spread out to create these margins.

Cathy: We’ve now got wildlife corridors, with access all over the

farm.And we’ve got barn owls on the farm in the last year which is a real joy for us.You notice the big animals, the foxes and the deer, but you tend to forget that some of the really important animals are the smallest ones: the tiny little insects that predate on pests in our fields.You’ve got to give them a sanctuary as well.

Will:You’ve got to cater for the whole food chain really.You’ve got to take care of the grass roots, for want of a better term, that’s right there at the beginning.

Cathy:We started off with laying hens and sheep after we began the organic conversion.We’ve got a pedigree Sussex herd of single suckle cows so we are producing beef from them but that’s obviously got quite a long lead time.

Will: It’s effectively three years from when you put the bull in until you get some meat on the shelf.

Cathy:We got the pigs, then the table chickens and we’ve been doing the turkeys now for about three years.

Will:We aim to provide as natural an environment as possible for all the animals to live in but probably particularly so with the pigs.They love it in the woods, they get the shade and they eat so many acorns in the autumn that they won’t eat the feed we give them.They’ve all got their farrowing houses but it’s not unusual for them in the summer to make a nest in the woods.They bite down little saplings, carry them

off and make a nest.What could be more natural than that? They are very industrious.

Cathy:The main crop we grow is grass for feeding all these hungry mouths.The quality of the pasture is really important. It is really herb rich so it’s like a feast.

Will: In the early days we tried growing crops here but it was a lesson well learned.What does the farm grow best? It grows grass. It’s heavy Wealden clay, and, growing organically, you should grow what the farm wants to grow.

Cathy: The way we farm, everything is interconnected. If we take fertility out for a crop which is then sold off the farm we are then losing fertility, whereas if we grow a crop that our animals are eating and they are staying on the farm then the circle is completed.

We have to be quite careful.We do grow veggie crops on a relatively small scale so we’ll have things like chard and beans and tomatoes to sell in the shop. After we’ve had a crop we put in a little group of pigs with electric fencing and they just clear it all up. They are doing our ploughing and our weeding for us and getting the richness of the leftover potatoes or whatever it is they are eating.

Will: One of the cornerstones of org farming is sustainability. It’s a much more self contained form of farming.

Cathy: When the cattle come in for the winter they are fed our feed: our hay and silage. So they are eating the same things as they do the rest of the year. The only animals we have to buy in for are the poultry and the pigs although we’d dearly like to get our hands on some cereal land for them.

Will: It would be really nice to be even more self-contained than we are but we are quite self-contained really.

Cathy:You never really get there though, do you? There’s always something else around the corner.

Will: You are always striving.

There’s always something more that you want to do.

Hen on the Gate Farm Shop Clayton Organic Farm Newick Lane Mayfield,TN20 6RE

9

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 9

21/2/09 10:38:50

Something Fishy!

Something Fishy has been supplying its customers with south coast fresh fish and shellfish for 12 years. We have our own fishing boats landing their catch direct to our shop in East Wittering.

To name a few species caught there is; Bass, Dover Sole, Plaice, Cod, Turbot, Brill and Selsey Crab and Lobster. We also buy from the French Food markets in Paris (Rungis).

Products ae delivered five days a week to our premises. There is practically nothing that cannot be sourced when its in season.

Smoked fish is an important part of our business, so much so, we smoke our own fish whenever possible.

We are also happy to smoke fish you have caught yourself.

Something Fishy Telephone: 01243 671153 12 The Parade, East Wittering, West Sussex. PO20 8BN

Something Fishy QP 0309.indd 1

18/2/09 16:22:16

Breakfast Lunch Dinner

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March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 10

16/1/09 15:49:13

21/2/09 10:38:53

Something for the weekend

I

When the boat comes in Chef and author, Peter Bayless, shares his admiration for those who risk the perils of the deep.

’m so fed up with all the bad news that’s flung in my face every day that I’m seriously thinking of cancelling my daily newspaper and making a point of avoiding all radio and TV news broadcasts forthwith. Frankly, I’d be a lot happier in blissful ignorance of the fact that f inancial institutions that spent the last twenty years encouraging me to borrow more than I could afford are now too frightened to lend me a quid. I no longer want to hear that thousands more people have been made redundant, or that high street names have disappeared forever. Neither do I want to hear about a ‘Nanny State’ that stops children playing, in case they should hurt themselves, and then wonders why the prediction is that by 2020 nine out of ten children will be obese. But of all the

bad news I hear, nothing infuriates me quite as much as barking mad EU rules and regulations. You know, the ones that get passed in Brussels, ignored by everyone except the British who follow them blindly and that result in the demise of many of our most valuable small enterprises.

Take, for example, the regulations on fishing quotas. PLEEEASE!!

Passing by the Riverside in Lewes the other day I noticed that my fishmonger had put a hand written sign outside on the pavement: Fresh local cod fillet — £9.00 per Kilo. I had to go inside and find out more.

Lee Webster, proprietor of Terry’s Fisheries, explained that there is an abundance of cod and people are reluctant to buy it because they’ve been told that stocks are seriously depleted and we shouldn’t be eating cod at all.The truth it seems is very different.

PAN-ROASTED SEA TROUT WITH CARROT PAKORAS AND SHREDDED CABBAGE The fresh, strong flavour of this beautiful oily fish stands up to and compliments the spicy pakoras and crispy cabbage, creating a sophisticated dish with a hint of the Indian sub-continent.

Serves four.

4 centre fillets of sea trout (approx 100g (3½oz) each), skin on Knob unsalted butter Squeeze lemon juice Flour for dusting Salt and freshly ground black pepper Oil for frying For the pakoras:

2 large carrots, peeled and grated

1 small onion, finely sliced

1 fresh green chilli finely chopped

75g (3oz) gram (chickpea) flour

1 tsp garam masala

½ tsp turmeric

½ tsp ground coriander

½ tsp dried methi (fenugreek) leaves Salt A little soda water Vegetable oil for frying For the cabbage:

1 spring cabbage, core removed and finely shredded

1 tsp cumin seeds Knob of butter

Descale the fish and check for pin bones. Dust the skin side of the fillets with flour and pat away the excess with the palm of your hand. Heat a little oil in a pan and place the fillets in, skin side down. Season the flesh side of the fillets with salt and pepper and, without moving them in the pan, allow the fillets to cook for three to four minutes. Check that the skin is crisp and turn the fillets over.Add a knob of butter to the pan and turn off the heat after one minute. The residual heat in the pan will complete the cooking of the fish.

For the pakoras, salt the sliced onion and leave in a bowl for 15 minutes. Rinse under running cold water and pat dry.

Sift the gram flour and spices into a bowl then add the methi leaves, onion, green chilli and a pinch of salt. Stir in the grated

carrot and add a few drops of soda water and mix to a firmish dough. Take dessert spoonfuls of the dough and flatten in the palms of your hands. Fry the pakoras in hot, shallow oil until golden brown all over. Drain on kitchen paper.

Blanch the shredded cabbage in boiling water for four minutes. Drain and refresh in iced water. Melt the butter in a sauté pan, add a dash of oil and fry the cumin seeds for one minute. Drain the cabbage and toss in the pan with the butter and cumin seeds.

Place two or three carrot pakoras on to a warmed plate with a mound of cabbage in the centre. Present the trout on top, skin side up and add a squeeze of lemon juice. Garnish with a twist of lemon and a sprig of fresh coriander.

11

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 11

21/2/09 10:38:54

Something for the weekend Lee’s uncle, Ron Parker, takes his boat ‘Silver Dawn’ out fishing from Newhaven two or three time a week. His business, like that of the other fishermen of Newhaven, has seen better days, but against seemingly impossible odds they still go fishing. It’s in the blood.

It’s what they do. And it’s thanks to them and men like them all around the coast of these islands that we continue to enjoy eating some of the finest seafood in the world. But what about this cod?

Well, the boats go out one day and lay their trammel nets, leaving them overnight. Next day they go out and haul them in along with their catch. The catch of course varies according to season.

DuringWinter and early Spring it’s Dover sole, plaice, dabs and other flatfish, gurnard, pollack whiting, skate, crab and the odd conger eel. As the waters warm up there mackerel, bass, black bream, grey mullet and, later in the summer, red mullet and lobster. But always there is an abundance of cod — so many of them that you can catch them with rod and line off a pier

or even off the beach. And here is the irony: no matter what the fishermen go after off the Sussex coast they always seem to land a load of cod along with it.

Now here is the sickening bit.

You’ve guessed haven’t you?

Because of the cod quotas imposed by our inestimably knowledgeable (not) EU legislators, much of the cod caught in these waters has to be thrown back into the sea, dead.

Can anyone out there give me one good reason why this should be, when for generations cod has been Britain’s favourite white fish?

Fish and chips is rightfully one of our national dishes and although much maligned and often scorned by our European cousins, really good fish and chips are for me one of the finest dishes in the world.

The fish, preferably cod, has to be white and very fresh. The batter, crisp and golden and the chips hand-cut and fried immediately before eating with lots of salt and a good splash of malt vinegar.

There are lots of different ways to make good, crispy batter. I used to make a really complicated one

with beer and egg yolk, then stiffly beaten egg whites folded in at the end, but I now find the simplest is the best: just self-raising flour, ice-cold water and a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda. Whisk it up to a smooth-coating batter and that’s it.

But back to Lee Webster at Terry’s Fisheries.All this talk about fresh local cod made me realise, if I hadn’t already done so, just how lucky we are in Sussex to have fishmongers like Lee. He’s been in the business for as long as he can remember, a business started by his father in Newhaven over 30 years ago after his grandfather gave up being a butcher, bought a boat called ‘Sea Venture’ and began fishing. Lee’s been in Lewes now for 15 years and has built up a dedicated following of customers, many of whom you will find queuing up at 7.00am on Saturday mornings to get the pick of his finest and freshest fish.

From Tuesday to Saturday, Lee’s day begins at 4.30am down at Newhaven harbour where at the fishermen’s own mini-market they

buy and sell the fish that each boat has brought in. And that is the fish that will be on his slab that very morning. If it hasn’t been caught, it won’t be on sale. The exceptions to this are the salmon, smoked fish and crustacea, flown in from Scotland, and shellfish and tuna brought overnight from Billingsgate.

Lee can provide fruits de mer platters, whole cooked salmon, lobsters and dressed crabs to order, but if you just want to buy over the counter be sure to go early and take in the array of gleaming fresh fish, bright eyed and red-gilled. His whole shop smells of the sea and that’s all you need to know because if fish smells fishy, it isn’t fresh.

On second thoughts I may just watch the news on telly tonight — you never know, maybe the economy is turning a corner! n Terry’s Fishery, The Riverside, Lewes. BN7 2RE 01273 487268 Shop opening hours: Tues-Sat, 7am-4pm

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March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 12

21/2/09 10:38:57

A family-owned business for over 25 years, based in the beautiful Riverside Food Hall on The Cliffe Bridge, the majority of the seasonal ďŹ sh is caught locally and hand picked from Newhaven Day Boats, including The Silver Dawn.

Choose your healthy meal from our wide selection or allow us to prepare a seafood platter of your choice.

Unit 7, Riverside Food Hall, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 2RE Telephone: 01273 487268 Camelia Botnar ad 0209:Layout 1 2/2/09 14:17 Page 1

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Terry Fisheries QP 0309.indd 1

13/2/09 15:20:03

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March/April 2009 B&N Fish Sales QP 0209.indd 1 Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 13

3/2/09 16:29:10 21/2/09 10:39:02

In season

In season Recipes by Stephen Adams.

Photography by Jean-Luc Brouard.

As a long cold winter comes to an end, the new season’s bounty begins to appear in the seasonal kitchen with rhubarb and purple sprouting broccoli the first fruit and vegetables to fill the ‘hungry gap’.

SPICY BEEF & VEGETABLE SOUP The hardest part of making this rich, warming soup is chopping up the vegetables.

Serves FOUR.

14

300g (10oz) beef, minced

250g (9oz) potato, diced with skin on

250g (9oz) onion, diced

150g (5oz) leeks, diced

150g (5oz) celery, diced

150g (5oz) carrots, diced

2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 litre (1¾pts) beef stock

1 tbsp tomato puree

1 tsp paprika

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp dried mixed herbs

1 tsp fresh thyme leaves Salt & pepper Oil

In a little oil in a large pan, cook the onions, celery, garlic, potato and thyme until they start to colour.

Add the minced beef, carrots and leeks and keep stirring, breaking up the meat and cook until the meat has browned.

Then add the tomato puree, the paprika, cumin and the dried herbs and stir for a couple of minutes.

Pour in the stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes until

the soup has thickened and the vegetables are cooked.

Season with salt and pepper and serve with a spoonful of sour cream.

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 14

21/2/09 10:39:05

In season

CHEESE & SPINACH HOMMITY PIES These are delicious vegetarian pies, served hot or cold and they make a great addition to a packed lunch.

MAKES TWO PIES.

250g (9oz) shortcrust pastry

110 g (4oz) puff pastry

450g (1lb) potato, diced and peeled

200g (7oz) spinach

150g (5oz) onion, chopped 150ml (5fl oz) milk

50g (2oz) cheddar, grated

1 clove garlic, crushed

25g (1oz) butter

25g (1oz) plain flour

1tbsp Dijon mustard

1tbsp parsley, chopped

1 egg yolk mixed with 1tsp of water Salt & pepper

SMOKED MACKEREL & COCKLE STEW Smoked mackerel is rich in omega-3 oils so it’s a great brain food. Cockles are hugely underrated shellfish; if you can’t get fresh ones you can use cooked ones and add the wine directly to the pan instead.

Serves TWO.

200g (7oz) smoked mackerel fillet, skinned & roughly flaked 400g (14oz) fresh cockles

200g (7oz) potatoes

150g (5oz) onion, chopped

110g (4oz) leeks, diced

110g (4oz) celery, diced

2 cloves garlic, chopped 200ml (7fl oz) white wine

400g 14oz) chopped tinned tomatoes

1 tbsp tomato puree

1 tsp parsley, chopped Pinch of saffron Oil Salt & pepper

Boil the potatoes in salted water until just cooked through. Drain and crush roughly.

Wash the cockles thoroughly under cold water and discard damaged ones or any that don’t close when tapped firmly.

Cook 50g of onion and one crushed clove of garlic in a little oil until transparent. Add the cockles and wine, and cover for five minutes or until the shells have opened. Drain and reserve the cooking liquor. Discard any cockles that have not opened.

Remove the cockle meat from the shells.

Sweat off the rest of the onion, garlic, leeks and celery in a little oil until soft but not coloured.

Add the saffron and tomato puree and cook through.Add the cooking liquor from the cockles and bring to the boil. Add the chopped tomatoes and simmer gently for half an hour.

Stir in the potatoes, cockles and mackerel and heat through.

Season to taste and sprinkle with parsley. Serve with bread.

Preheat oven to Gas Mark 5 / 190°C / 375°F. Roll out the shortcrust pastry to about 4mm thickness and line a couple of 4” (10cm) greased pie moulds or muffin tins.

Boil the potatoes in salted water until just cooked.Wilt the spinach in a pan and squeeze out any excess water.

Sweat the onion and garlic in the butter over a low heat until they are soft but not coloured.

Stir in the flour and cook for two minutes. Gradually add the milk, stirring continuously. Add the cheese and stir until the sauce is smooth. Remove from the heat and stir in the mustard, then add

the potatoes, spinach and parsley and season to taste.

Fill the pies with the mixture.

Roll the puff pastry to around 5mm thick and cut into two squares. Place the squares over the pies, crimp the edges and then cut away the excess dough. Make a couple of holes to let the steam escape and brush the tops of the pies with the egg wash.

Bake for 35-45 minutes or until the tops are nicely golden and risen.

For Aga cooking:

15

Cook in the grid shelf on the floor of the Roasting Oven.

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 15

21/2/09 10:39:12

In season

PENNE & PURPLE SPROUTING BROCCOLI WITH LEEK, CARROT & TOMATO SAUCE AND PARSLEY PESTO This light and nutritious pasta dish brings a much needed splash of colour to the table in the early days of spring.

PAN-SEARED TRIPE WITH JAPANESE CURRY The biggest problem with tripe is actually getting people to try it.

This recipe is about as far away from childhood nightmares of tripe boiled in milk that you can get. Just don’t tell anyone what’s in it until they’ve tried it.

Serves four.

400g (14oz) tripe

250g (9oz) potato, small diced

200g (7oz) onion, chopped

110g (4oz) cucumber, chopped and seeded

110g (4oz) leeks, chopped 200ml (7fl oz) chicken or beef stock

2 cloves garlic, crushed

25g (1oz) rice flour

25g (1oz) clarified butter

¼ chilli, deseeded & finely chopped Pinch ground cloves Pinch ground nutmeg Pinch ground cinnamon

1tbsp chives, chopped Salt & pepper

Serves four.

400g (14oz) dried penne pasta

250g (9oz) purple sprouting broccoli Salt Parmesan to serve For the sauce:

150g (5oz) carrots, chopped

150g (5oz) leeks, chopped

150g(5oz) onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, crushed 750ml (1¼pt) vegetable stock

2tbsp tomato puree Olive oil Salt & pepper For the parsley pesto:

30g (1oz) flat leaf parsley leaves

30g (1oz) parmesan, grated

30g (1oz) pine nuts

75ml 3fl oz) extra virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, crushed Salt

16

First make the sauce. Sweat down the onions, carrots, leeks and garlic slowly in olive oil for around 15 minutes. Add the tomato puree and cook it through and then pour in the vegetable stock.

Bring to the boil and simmer for another 20 minutes. Blend until smooth and season to taste.

To make the parsley pesto, lightly toast the pine nuts in a pan or under a grill. Place the garlic and parsley in a blender and whizz, then add the pine nuts and give a quick pulse so they are chopped

but not pulped and retain a bit of crunch. Stir in the parmesan, and add salt and oil to the desired taste and consistency.

Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until al dente, so it has a little bite but doesn’t taste of flour, and strain.

Cut the broccoli into florets.

Blanch in a pan of salted water for two minutes or until just tender and strain.

Mix the pasta with the broccoli and coat generously with the sauce.

Bring the tripe to the boil in plain water and simmer for two and a half hours or until tender, topping up the water if required.

Leave to cool and then chop into 1cm squares.

Fry the onions, garlic, leeks and potatoes in the clarified butter until coloured then add the rice flour and cook through. Add the chilli and spices and then slowly add the stock, a little at a time,

stirring continuously.Take off the heat and add the cucumber and chives and season to taste.

Season the tripe with salt and pepper and sear it in a hot pan until coloured. Serve with the curry.

For Aga cooking:

Bring the tripe to boil on the Boiling Plate and then place in the Simmering Oven.

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 16

21/2/09 10:39:18

In season

HOGGET (OR LAMB OR MUTTON) CHOPS WITH SPICED POTATOES AND SPINACH & PARSLEY SAUCE Hogget is a sheep that’s over a year old but under two years (when it’s classed as mutton).You can use this recipe for lamb or mutton chops but hogget has a greater depth of taste than lamb while I find mutton works best for slower-cooked dishes.

Serves two.

4 hogget (or lamb or mutton) chops Salt & pepper For the potatoes: 400g (14oz) potatoes, peeled and cut for roasties

½ tsp curry powder

½ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp turmeric

½ tsp salt

½ tsp pepper Oil For the spinach & parsley sauce:

200g (7oz) spinach

50g (2oz) parsley

150g (5oz) onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

50g (2oz) butter

2 tbsp double cream Salt & pepper

Preheat the oven to Gas Mark 7 / 220°C / 425°F. Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for ten minutes. Strain and roll them in the seasoning while still steaming. Heat the oil in a roasting tray in the oven.Add the potatoes and baste thoroughly and return to the oven for about 40 minutes until crispy, basting occasionally.

To make the sauce, sweat the garlic and onion with the butter in a small pan until opaque. Add the parsley and spinach and cream and stir until the leaves have wilted. Blend smooth in a processor and season to taste.

Season the chops and place them in a hot pan. Cook for three to four minutes each side and then allow to rest before serving with the potatoes and sauce.

For Aga cooking:

Roast the potatoes on the floor of the Roasting Oven.

17

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 17

21/2/09 10:39:20

In season

LIVER WITH ROASTED VEGETABLES, BACON AND EGG OK, it’s a fry-up, but it’s a very tasty fry-up to be enjoyed at any time of day and not just for breakfast!

Serves TWO.

18

300g (10oz) liver, sliced

2 rashers of bacon 100g (3½oz) potato, small diced (6mm) 100g (3½oz) leek, small diced 100g (3½oz) carrots, small diced 100g (3½oz) onions, small diced

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 large eggs Splash red wine

1 tbsp plain flour Oil Salt & pepper

Slowly fry the onion, garlic, potato, carrot and leek in a little oil until they are cooked through and put to one side.

Fry the bacon until golden brown and reserve.

Season the flour with salt and pepper and coat the liver slices.

Cook the liver in the same pan for a minute to a minute and a half each side, depending on how pink you like it.

Deglaze the pan with a good splash of red wine, cook off the alcohol and pour the juice over the liver.

Fry the eggs and serve with the vegetables, bacon and liver.

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 18

21/2/09 10:39:22

Passionate about supporting our local producers’ and creating delicious lunches & dinners using local meat and seasonal fish – the perfect retreat for the whole community – supporting family and a popular choice for corporate entertaining too Baloos Restaurant & Bar Wheatsheaf Road Woodmancote Henfield, West Sussex BN5 9BD Telephone: 01273 492077

w w w. b a l o o s . c o . u k

Baloos QP 0309.indd 1

19/2/09 15:57:47

High Class Butchers & Poulterers Specialising in Low Food Miles and Free Range Produce Free Range Eggs and traditionally hand reared Turkeys from our farm Log Fire Hog Roast & Barbeque now available.

HOLMANSBRIDGE FARM Townlittleworth Road, Barcombe, BN8 4TD Tel: 01273 401 964 Email: holmansbridge@aol.com Butchers Shop open: Tuesday to Friday, 9am to 6pm Saturday, 9am to 5pm

March/April 2009 Holmansbridge QP 0309.indd 1 Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 19

11/2/09 12:39:40 21/2/09 10:39:24

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High Weald Dairy QP 0309.indd 1

18/2/09 11:27:30

Stray into the unknown to find the hidden treasures of Waterfalls Coffee Lounge

Farmer Direct Coffee Scrumptious cakes and delectable lunches Wine and Beer After, enjoy a moment in our gift shop 23 Robertson Street Hastings East Sussex TN34 1HL Telephone: 01424 431124 March/April 2009 Waterdfalls 0908 QP.indd 1 Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 20

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In season

RHUBARB COMPOTE WITH FRENCH TOAST AND ICE CREAM Rhubarb is the first fruit of spring and a promise of all the good things to come. It makes an attractive, useful and undemanding addition to even the smallest garden but make sure the leaves aren’t easily accessible to unaccompanied children and pets as they are extremely poisonous (although perfectly safe for composting).

Serves four.

200g (7oz) rhubarb stems, diced

150g (5oz) golden castor sugar

2 thick slices of crusty white bread (sourdough works very well)

2 eggs

30g (1oz) butter Vanilla ice cream to serve

CHOCOLATE CHIP PASTRIES WITH CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE SAUCE AND VANILLA CREAM These impressive-looking pastries are actually ridiculously easy to make but I won’t tell if you don’t.

Serves four.

For the pastries:

200g (7oz) puff pastry

75g (3oz) dark chocolate chips

1 egg yolk mixed with a little water For the chocolate truffle sauce:

50g (2oz) butter, chopped

50g (2oz) single cream

50g (2oz) dark chocolate, chopped For the vanilla cream: 250ml (9fl oz) double cream

50g (2oz) caster sugar

1 vanilla pod

Preheat oven to Gas Mark 4 / 180°C / 350°F. Roll out the pastry into a very thin square and cut into four pieces of the same size. Brush the egg yolk and water over one piece and then sprinkle with a third of the chocolate chips. Place another piece of pastry on top, wash with the egg mix and sprinkle more chocolate. Repeat once more then place the final sheet of pastry on the top and wash the top with the egg. Cut into four squares and bake for 15 minutes until risen, golden and crispy.

To make the chocolate truffle sauce, bring the single cream to

the boil and whisk in the butter.

Remove from the heat and whisk in the chocolate until melted and thoroughly combined.

To make the vanilla cream, whisk the double cream with the sugar. Split the vanilla pod and scrape the seeds into the cream (Keep the pod to use again).

Serve the pastries warm with the sauce poured over and accompanied by the cream.

For Aga cooking:

Bake on the grid shelf on the first set of runners in the Roasting Oven.

Heat a solid pan until it’s really hot and then pour in 100g of the sugar.When the sugar has turned to caramel, add the rhubarb and stir it around with a wooden spoon until it looks like jam.

Allow to cool.

Cut the crusts off the bread then cut each slice into four squares.

Beat the eggs with the remaining sugar and dunk in the bread and

leave to soak for a minute or so, turning to makes sure it’s evenly coated. Dust the bread in a little extra sugar then pop it into a hot pan with a little melted butter.

Fry on both sides until golden brown.

Serve the warm French toast with the compote and ice cream on the side.

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Bread

The best thing since sliced bread Whatever happened to the Great British loaf? Tony Leonard looks at how technology changed our bread and meets the artisan bakers who are bringing back real baking.

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MAGINE A basket filled to the brim with the breads of the world. Creamy sourdough and crust y baguettes from France, Irish soda bread, Scandinavian rye, black bread from Russia, r ust ic It a l ia n ciabatta and focaccia with herbs and olives, kouloura from Greece, American corn bread, pitta bread from the Middle East and chapatti and naan from India. And what do you picture when you imagine Britain’s contribution to this bounty? A London bloomer, a cottage loaf, or anaemic slices of slightly damp cotton wool stuffed full of additives and wrapped in polythene? For far too many of us, the British loaf is a pappy supermarket staple, bereft of taste or texture, unloved and unhealthy and increasingly blamed for a host of dietary problems, allergies and intolerances.

No wonder we eat less than half as much bread now as we did 45 years ago.

This wasn’t always the case. For many centuries the British loaf, in common with bread the world over, was simply made with flour, yeast, salt and water.Those basic ingredients, brought together with the skill and patience of the housewife or the neighbourhood baker, provided the staple of our diet, the ‘staff of life’, for most of our history.A 4000-year-old loaf can be seen today in the British Museum and it’s thought that the process of fermentation, by which dough rises, was discovered by the ancient Egyptians around that time.

According to legend, a young Egyptian made a dough but forgot to bake it immediately and the yeast, occur r ing naturally in the flour, began to ferment. When the dough was eventually baked, the resulting bread was lighter and tastier than the usual unleavened loaf.

Subsequently, saving a piece of

fermented dough to add to the next day’s bread became the norm, something we would recognise as a sourdough today.

The Greeks and Romans further developed the skills of breadmaking and spread them through their empires.

The Romans brought the rotary mill stone and the watermill to our shores, along with the hard wheat which would not grow in our climate.

In Britain, bread made from wheat remained a luxury through the Saxon and Norman periods, with rye, barley, oats and beans providing most of the flour until well into theVictorian era.While sourdough baking was well established in continental Europe, and subsequently further afield in the gold fields of San Francisco and the wilderness of Alaska, it seems unlikely that it ever was widespread in England. Here barm breads, which use beer leaven to ferment the dough, were the norm.

The history of baking is

intimately entwined with that of brewing and, until the early 19th century when bakers’ yeast became commercially available, brewing was the only reliable source of yeast for baking so contemporary cookery books provided detailed instructions for both. Interestingly, while a 15th century English manuscript refers to barm as ‘goddisgoode’, the Paris Faculty of Medicine banned its use on biblical grounds and sourdough techniques remained the dominant baking method in France.

The role of bread in our diets has long been seen as so important that governments have considered it their duty to intervene on our behalf.

The Bread Laws are among the oldest passed in the UK. During the First World War, regulations were imposed on the industry, with maximum prices imposed and rules governing types of grain, waste and even the shape of loaves were introduced. In World War II the contribution

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Bread

of bakers to the war effort was considered so important that baking was classified as a reserved occupation. The ‘National Loaf ’, a brown bread enriched with calcium and vitamins was introduced. Sliced bread was banned and bread continued to be rationed until 1948. It was during a time of peace, however, that a British governmentfunded initiative was to change an industry built on generations of skills and knowledge beyond all recognition.

The Chorleywood Bread Process (CBP) was invented in 1961 with the best possible intentions. This revolution in breadmaking technology would ensure a plentiful supply of cheap bread, affordable to all, and reduce Britain’s dependence on foreign imports forever by making our staple foodstuff from only low grade British wheat. It’s only now, nearly fifty years later, that many of us are beginning to question the real consequences of this technological breakthrough.

CBP involves a really fast mixer, high baking temperatures, massively increased amounts of yeast and the addition of fat, which is necessary to hold the structure of the finished loaf.

Alongside this mechanical d eve l o p m e n t c a m e t h e chemical development of a huge number of improvers, additives, preservatives and enzymes (which, under the classification of ‘processing aids’, don’t have to be declared on the label) known as Activated Dough Development (ADD). The result is that the ‘bulk fermentation’ time has been cut from many hours to a few minutes, saving time and, more importantly, money and no longer required the skills of an experienced baker.

For generations basic techniques remained largely unchanged; things now move very rapidly in the brave new world of industrial baking. In 1994, a partnership, including Sainsbury’s and a biotechnology firm, unveiled the Milton Keynes Process.This

technique has enabled the rise of supermarket instore bakeries by producing preformed loaves that can be stored at ambient temperatures for five to 12 days without going stale before being ‘freshly’ baked on the premises.

In his excellent book, Bread Matters: The State of Modern Bread and a Definitive Guide to Baking Your Own (Fourth Estate, London), baker, writer and campaigner, Andrew Whitley, damningly describes the bread that has resulted from such technological innovations.

“British bread is a nutritional, culinary, social and environmental mess ,” he writes, “[Made] using a cocktail of functional additives and a super-fast fermentation (based on greatly increased amounts of yeast), which inhibits assimilation of some of the remaining nutrients while causing digestive discomfort to many consumers.”

Fortunately for fans of real bread, not all bakeries have pursued these high tech manufacturing methods and a growing band of bakers are turning instead to traditional techniques, using stoneground flours, slow fermentation, timehonoured bakers’ skills and a great deal of patience. These bakers have become known as ‘artisan bakers’, a description that emphasises the handcrafted nature of their products and clearly differentiates their bread from the mass-produced mechanically or chemically created loaves of plants, supermarkets and High St bakery chains.

The artisan bread pioneers of Sussex come from a variety of backgrounds and are exploring a wide range of traditions as well as looking forward to the future with new products and techniques. Their breads are varied and distinctive with all the complexity and depth of flavour and superior texture that can only come from allowing the dough to fully develop in its own time. But what they all

Helen Harrison, Cyrnel Bakery

have in common is a passion for their craft, an eagerness to share their skills and a great respect for each other.

CYRNEL BAkERY Helen Harrison bought Cyrnel (pronounced ‘kernel’) Bakery in Forest Row in 1987 after a varied culinary career as a catering manager, a pastry chef and a teacher (and various combinations thereof). The bakery was founded in 1972 by the nearby Emerson College, to utilise the wheat grown on their biodynamic farm, but was later privately sold. Although no longer formerly linked to the college or the farm, the bakery still uses flour from the farm and supplies bread to the college to this day. Helen only uses organic flour and is scrupulous about the origin of all her other ingredients, but she’s never bothered with organic accreditation.“I think my customers are more concerned that there are no additives in it,” she tells me.“They know that it’s

made here and that they know what’s in it.”

When Helen first took on Cyrnel Bakery, the term, artisan bread, wasn’t in common use but that’s certainly what was being produced there and it’s what she’s producing to this day.“It was here when I came here so I carried on with it and expanded it,” She explains.Assisted by her husband, Gerald, Helen rearranged and extended the bakery and soon increased the variety of bread on offer. “When we came here we were making three types of bread a week,” Gerald recalls.” Now we are baking around 20.”

These days Helen doesn’t usually bake the bread herself; instead she employs a baker who works overnight while she comes in at about five in the morning and makes the cakes and savouries. Tucked in a quiet road, the bakery doesn’t get much passing trade, but relies instead on regular customers and word of mouth. Many of their regulars travel some distance

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Bread

and Helen and Gerald return the complement by attending as many farmers’ markets as they can fit in. “We get asked to do more but they are either on the same days as the one before or they are the day before or after,” says Helen. “And we need the time to make the stuff.”

JUDGES BAkERY In 2005 in Hastings, Jo Fairley and Craig Sams, founders of Green & Black’s, also bought an already established bakery.

There’s been a bakery on the site since 1826, once one of 13 in Hastings Old Town alone and when the owners decided to retire, the couple “couldn’t bear the thought of it becoming yet another art gallery.” But transforming the traditional High St bakery into the organic foodie hub of their dreams was never going to be a picnic. “What we didn’t want to do was scare the horses,” Jo tells me.“There were a lot of long-standing customers of Judges who might have been cynical about organic and could be resistant to change. So what we had to do was imperceptibly convert the standard recipes so the bloomers and the farmhouse loaves, the cottage loaves, the donuts, the pink meringue pigs, all became organic.”

If you think this was just a matter of switching around some ingredients, think again: “They had to look the same but you are not actually using the same ingredients in many cases because you haven’t got the E-numbers, you haven’t got the improvers and you are not using the same techniques.”

Every product was tried and tested and then tried again.They were confident that there would be a market for the new artisan breads they intended to produce, but Jo was acutely aware of the importance of the shop to its existing customers: “We didn’t want to lose the little old ladies and fisherman and builders and all those people who’d traditionally shopped at Judges

A warm welcome at Judges Bakery

for years and years,” she explains.

“They would have freaked out and gone somewhere else if we’d made it drastically different.”

Since then, Judge’s Bakery has won numerous awards for its breads, cakes and confectionary, launched their products at Selfridges in London and, holding true to its roots, has become the nucleus of a thriving selection of food businesses in the Old Town.

“The most important thing about being an artisan-style baker is learning how your ingredients work,” Judges’ award-winning baker, Emmanuel Hadjiandreou, tells me. By “listening” to his dough he knows when it needs a little more time and when it needs a little less.Temperature and humidity can drastically change how dough performs and that’s besides all the natural variations of the stoneground organic flour.

“As an artisan-style baker you can never become a robot because your product is changing all the time,” he says.“It’s not something you know; it’s instinctive.”

EAST WEST BAkERY

about baking,” Laura continues, “We started wondering how you get into it and then we thought, why don’t we have a go, and it’s literally gone from there.”

“It just started and it had a life of its own,” agrees their mother, Sue. Exams over, twins, Jenny and Sean signed up for an artisan baking course with Paul Merry at Panary Baking School at Cann Mills in Dorset. After a lot of experimenting, plenty of trial and error and some advice and encouragement from other bakers, the family began East West Bakery. They initially wanted to concentrate on traditional English loaves but, Jenny explains, “because they looked very similar to what people could buy elsewhere and they didn’t know why they should pay more for ours. We soon found that the European breads sold better.”

The Tennysons took on the lease of a small shop in Arundel but have since closed to concentrate on wholesale. The shops new occupants, The Baker Girls, continue to sell East West bread so everyone’s happy.

“We are not a traditional bakery in that we’re not using exclusively British techniques,” explains Sue. “We set out to make really fantastic tasting breads like we’d tasted around Europe.

We didn’t set out to make a healthy product necessarily,” continues Jenny.“We just wanted something that tasted good but we’ve found that making bread in a pure natural way gives it all sorts of health benefits.”

“It’s all about giving the bread the time it needs to ferment,” insists Sue. “I was talking to a chef who had worked in a plant bakery and he said they go from flour to dough in six minutes.

And you know that can’t happen unless you are doing an awful lot of adulteration. The only thing that gives that bread any structure is the fat.”

As the Tennysons learned more they’ve become increasingly evangelical on the subject of British bread.They are involved in Slow Bread and the Real Bread Campaign organisations that highlight the state of mass produced loaves and promote artisan baking as an alternative.

“It‘s appalling and shocking, what’s happened to baking in this country,” says Sue. “So many people genuinely have no understanding of how bread is made.“ “We are challenging people’s perception of bread in every way: size, shape, flavour, and crust,” she says. “We are trying to do this cleanly with a lot of integrity and be honest about the bread

“We noticed that British bread just didn’t taste very nice,” says Laura Tennyson, explaining how her family came to set up East West Bakery. Her brother and sister, Sean and Jenny, were visiting Laura at college in Copenhagen and couldn’t understand why the quality of breads available was so different to those at home. “Sean and Jenny were about to take their A-levels and thinking about what they were going to do next and we just started talking

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Bread

that we are making and how we are making it.”

never got flour on their hands to experienced bakers who want to further develop their skills. For those of us without a friendly neighbourhood artisan bakery nearby, could baking our own bread be the answer?

Can a loaf knocked up in a domestic oven at home really compare to anything you can buy from a skilled craft baker.

The Lighthouse team assure me that it really can and insist that even if our skills are limited, the results will always be better than any mass-produced alternative.

Despite the recession, the couple are optimistic for the future of artisan bakers in this country. “My hope is that it will get better and better,” says Rachel. “In this sort of climate, it’s a bit like where butchers were five or six years ago. A lot closed down but those that were good survived. So I think the artisan bakeries will be the only ones left but hopefully there’ll be a lot more of them.”

“You know it’s a trend when the supermarkets start promoting their artisanal-style lines,” Elizabeth insists. “Everyone is more concerned with what they eat and, even in these economically harder times, they still want to know where their food comes from.” n

LIGHTHOUSE BAkERY

26

“It’s traditional in the olde worlde sense, with minimal invasive processes. Old world, old style hand formed bread using traditional methods without any added improvers and minimal mechanical intervention,” Elizabeth Weisberg tells me her own definition of artisan baking.”

You can’t rush it.The slower the fermentation, the better the bread will be and the more the complexity of flavour develops.”

Elizabeth is eminently qualified to know, having established the legendary Lighthouse Bakery in South London in 2000 with her partner, Sussex famers’ daughter, Rachel Duffield. Last year, to Battersea’s loss and Sussex’s gain, the pair moved, lock, stock and bakery ovens, to Ockham, where they run The Lighthouse Bakery School and a modest wholesale operation.

Despite the rise in interest over the last few years, Rachel explains that artisan bakers in the UK are still “all too few and far between.

It really is just heart-breaking. On the one hand, we’re quite excited about the number of people who come to us on courses saying that they want to start a bakery. But then on the other hand, the total number of artisan bakeries in the UK is, what, 20?”

“I think about three percent of total consumption is made by artisan bakeries while 97% is instore bakeries, mass-produced plant bakeries or High St chains,” answers Elizabeth.

The pair often refute the idea that they are in competition with other bakers. “The more people who are doing what we do, the better it is for all of us,” insists Rachel.We don’t think we’ve got to beat Judges or East West, we should all be banging the same drum, We are all saying that this bread is good for you and it’s a healthy contribution to a good diet.And if the standards are raised generally, if the bar is raised, then that’s better for everybody.”

Rachel Duffield

Elizabeth agrees: “We’re not at all precious about giving out recipes or about what we do and how we do it. We just want to encourage better understanding of a great product and get people away from that horrible supermarket pap.”

The two met when they were both working in the art world, Rachel in London and Elizabeth in NewYork.After deciding that she would move to England, Elizabeth decided to pursue a career in baking. She studied at the National Bakery School for two years which taught her how to make recipes and production plan but didn’t really prepare her to be an artisan baker, “and

then, as you do, we just opened a shop.”

“We just had a panic attack,” describes Rachel. “But we opened a shop and it became phenomenally successful, to the point where we had to decide if we wanted to open another shop or get a unit and move part of the bakery. But we decided that’s not really what we are about.We are about being in the community and that’s where our strength is.

When the opportunity to move to Sussex came up, the couple grabbed it.

The school offers a huge range of one day courses, aimed at everyone from absolute beginners who’ve

Cyrnel Bakery Lower Rd, Forest Row, RH18 5HE 01342 822283 East West Bakery www.eastwestbakery.com 01273 906288 Judges Bakery www.judgesbakery.com 51 High St. Hastings, TN34 3EN 01424 722588 The Lighthouse Bakery School www.lighthousebakery.co.uk 01580 831 271 Real Bread Campaign www.sustainweb.org/ realbread Slow Bread www.slowbread.org.uk

March/April 2009

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Gastro-Gnome’s Guide

The Gastro-Gnome’s Guide to Forest Row The Gastro-Gnome heads to the Ashdown Forest and discovers the rural charms of Forest Row Photography by Cass Cassidy.

The Gastro-Gnome illustration by Joseph Loughborough.

Ashdown Forest Llama Park

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HE VILLAGE of Forest Row, ‘the gateway to Ashdown Forest’, dates back to the 14th century when King Edward III and his court would use it as a base for hunting. Brambletye House was built in 1631 by Sir Henry Compton and although destroyed by Cromwell’s men, it lives on in an 1826 novel by Horace Smith, and its ruins stand forlornly to

this day. The village owes much of its development to the arrival of the railway in 1866. The line was a victim of the ‘Beeching Axe’ despite being a service that Beeching, a nearby resident, used frequently as Chairman of British Rail. It is the boundaries of the Ashdown Forest on three sides of the village though, not the loss of its train service that has provided a limit to growth and preserved Forest Row’s rural charm.

The Gastro-Gnome started his visit at Wych Cross by popping in for a Fairtrade morning tea and a slice of home-made cake at the Coffee Shop at Ashdown Forest Llama Park (Wych Cross). The cafe also offers a range of scones, snacks and light lunches and you don’t have to pay admission to the park to use it, although the Gnome couldn’t miss this opportunity to say hello to some of the friendly llamas and alpacas resident here. They are curious and elegant creatures

Ashdown Park Hotel

who are more than happy to take visiting humans (and gnomes) on a leisurely walk through the forest to enjoy the magnificent views and unspoiled countryside.

This popular and award-winning visitor attraction also features a family picnic area, a children’s adventure playground, conference facilities for corporate visitors and shops selling alpaca knitwear and South American crafts and toys.

Overlooking these delightful animals playing in the rolling fields, the Gnome could glimpse the majestic spires of Ashdown Park Hotel (Wych Cross) rising through the morning mist so it

was to here that he headed next.

Set in 186 acres of stunningly landscaped Sussex countryside, this 19th century mansion has previously served as a hospital and convalescent home for World War I veterans, a convent and a university. At the hotel’s award-winning Ander ida Restaurant, head chef Roger Gadsden and his team serve a classically inspired menu to the soothing accompaniment of the resident pianist. Sunday lunch is a thoroughly relaxed affair with a delicious three-course table d’hote menu at £26.50 available from 1pm to 9pm.

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Gastro-Gnome’s Guide

The Brambletye Inn

Fictional detective Sherlock Holmes and his assistant Dr Watson, stayed at The Brambletye Inn (The Square) while investigating the gruesome harpooning of a retired sea captain in The Adventure of Black Peter. Holme’s creator, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, himself frequented the premises when he resided in nearby Crowborough. The Inn comprises of 22 en-suite rooms, a restaurant and an open-plan bar serving a range of Fuller’s awardwinning ales.

The area’s literary significance doesn’t stop with the originator of the world’s favourite detective.

Ashdown Forest is known all over the globe as the home of Winnie-the-Pooh. AA Milne wrote his famous books about Pooh in nearby Hartfield, inspired by his son, Christopher Robin’s teddy bear and set them in the surrounding landscape. A guide to the sights that will be familiar to fans of the “bear of very little brain” is available from the Ashdown Forest Centre (Wych Cross) or Pooh Corner (Hartfield).

Another place worth checking out when you’re in the vicinity is Perryhill Orchards (Edenbridge Rd). This family-run farm is home to a busy farm shop, the Orchard Tea Rooms and the Kent & Sussex Apple Juice & Cider Centre with over 25 single variety apple juices, 20 draught ciders and perries, 35 bottled varieties and Perryhill’s own three ciders and their farmgrown perry. There’s also a craft shop selling hand-made, locally

produced pots, cookware, vases, hangings and jewellery, the Fireplace Trade Centre and a variety of fruit for PYO in season from June.

The presence of Michael Hall School and Emerson College in Forest Row has had a great influence on the life of the village.

Both institutions are founded on the educational principles of Rudolph Steiner, the influential philosopher and founder of the biodynamic movement and the Steiner Waldorf principles of education. Steiner’s system of

The Seasons

education focuses on the ‘whole child’ and prioritises creativity, self-reliance, responsibility and community.Whether by accident or design, Forest Row seems to have taken on much of this ethos and the village hall, Freshfield Hall (Lewes Rd) and the Community Centre (Hartfield Rd) are home to a lots of cultural, artistic and therapeutic activities.A number of alternative practitioners have also made their base the village. As you might expect, Forest Row is a Transition Village, for more details go to: http://transitionforestrow.ning. com. Forest Row Community Market takes place on the first Saturday of every month except January, 10am to 1pm at the Community Centre.

The Seasons Forest Row Ltd runs two shops in the village: a grocery and a greengrocers, both specialising in organic, and biodynamic produce, much of it local. The Seasons (10/11 Hartfield Rd) has been a grocery shop for 35 years, stocking wholefoods, dry goods, bread from Cyrnel Bakery, cheese and dairy products, herbs and juices.

A few doors along, L. A. Miller & Son (17 Hartfield Rd) is the village’s independent family butcher, selling a great range of quality local meat and poultry.

Just behind, The Seasons (Lower Rd), is an organic greengrocers with an outstanding range of organic fruit and vegetables including a selection from local biodynamic farms.

There is also a book section of specialist literature on organic and biodynamic growing and

Java and Jazz

Cyrnel Bakery

ethical living, beauty products that won’t leave their mark on the environment and handcrafted pottery, basketware and children’s toys.

Cyrnel Bakery (Lower Rd) was created in 1972 by Emerson College to produce bread using biodynamic grain from nearby Tablehurst Farm, which was also owned by the college at the time.

Helen Harrison, who now owns the bakery, has kept to the artisan principles on which the bakery was founded and still uses some of the farm’s harvest as well as other ingredients sourced locally. The bakery produces a wide range of hand-made, additive-free breads and supplies a number of local businesses as well as selling direct to the public.

For some strange reason, it’s often the simplest of dishes that are most abused in their execution.

Fish and chips, burgers and bangers all suffer in unsympathetic hands but no classic has been mangled more than the humble pizza. Stuffed crusts, puffed up bases and Chinese duck and chicken tikka masala toppings are just some of the atrocities that have been visited on this poor maligned classic. Made properly, with good simple ingredients, the pizza is a thing of beauty and so the Gnome was thrilled to discover this was the case at Java and Jazz (Lower Square).

Effervescent proprietor, Maggie Johnston, offered a wonderfully warm welcome on rather a cold day and the Gnome was thrilled to follow a perfectly made pizza with a coffee brewed to the same exacting standards. Maggie, husband Geoff, daughter Gemma, and a young and enthusiastic

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Gastro-Gnome’s Guide team have turned this cafe into a must-stop venue to enjoy a proper pizza, a light salad, homecooked cakes or just to meet up with friends over a damn fine cup of coffee and to watch the village go by outside.

As previously mentioned, Tablehurst Community Farm (Waterworks Rd) was once owned by Emmerson College but is now, along with its sister farm, Old Plaw Hatch Farm, uniquely owned by a community co-operative of around 500 mainly local individuals. Biodynamic agriculture is a type of organic system which treats the farm as a single self-sufficient organism.

As much as possible, all the food for the animals is therefore grown on the farm and welfare standards are extremely high. An emphasis on nurturing the soil through composts and manures and a total avoidance of artificial chemicals have been found in a number of scientific studies to result in significantly better quality soils which benefit crops and grazing animals. Tablehurst Farm produces award-winning meats that are among the best to be found in Sussex. Beef, pork, lamb and chicken are all reared and butchered on the farm and are sold, along with hand-made sausages and burgers through the farm shop which is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 9am to 5pm.

Tablehurst’s sister farm, Old Plaw Hatch Farm (Plawhatch Lane, Sharpthorne) is run on the same principles with a small dairy herd of 45 cows supplying delicious raw (unpasteurised) milk which, as well as being sold directly, is turned into a scrumptious cheddar, feta and a gouda-style cheese, and a range of plain and flavoured yoghurts. The farm also has a flock of sheep, pigs and

Old Plaw Hatch Farm

laying hens and a market garden that produces fruit and vegetables which are on sale through the farm shop.The two farms are very involved in education initiatives, hosting plenty of school visits and provide apprenticeships for people who want a career in biodynamic farming. The farm shop is open Monday to Friday 10am to 6pm and Saturday 9am to 6pm.

After the culinary riches of Forest Row, the Gnome would be lying if he didn’t say that nearby East Grinstead is a little disappointing to the hungry traveller.Things are looking up in the historic town centre however with the addition of Grub CaféBar (110-112 London Rd).

Proprietor, Steven Price, has proved in a year and a half since setting up shop that the residents of this historic town have a huge appetite for well-prepared Sussex produce served in relaxed and comfortable surroundings. The atmosphere changes through the day to cater for a changing clientele, from brunching families with kids in tow to chilled out music fans in the evening. Homemade Sussex beef burgers are a particular favourite.

To buy fresh ingredients for scratch cooking, East Grinstead Farmers Market (Lewes Rd) takes place on every Thursday from 9am to 2pm.

For fine dining, Anise Restaurant at The Felbridge

Hotel and Spa (London Rd) offers a modern British and European menu in sumptuous surroundings. The restaurant is a relatively new addition to the hotel and has already been awarded two AA rosettes. For a more casual style of dining, the hotel is also home to The Bay Tree Restaurant.

The Elizabethan manor house, Gravetye Manor (Vowels Lane, nr East Grinstead), stands in 1000-acre woodlands and a 35acre garden designed by previous owner William Robinson, creator of the English natural garden style. This country house hotel has won no end of awards and has topped best hotel lists in numerous publications. The restaurant serves vegetables and herbs from the kitchen garden and has a legendary wine cellar.

It was Michelin-starred for many years but, after losing out this year, the team will no doubt be pulling out all the stops to regain their star in 2010.

Lots of country pubs have spectacular views but only The Wiremill (Wire Mill Lane, Newchapel) can claim a 26acre lake as its front garden.

This gastro-pub serves breakfast from 9am every day and a main menu from noon to 10pm, with ingredients sourced directly from local farms and producers. Chef Jason operates a scheme where customers can exchange home-

30 Grub Café-Bar

Cherry Gardens Farm

grown produce for vouchers.

Colin maintains a fine selection of cask ales with beers from Harveys, Westerham’s and Dark Star usually on tap and some great guest ales from Timothy Taylor, Hammerpot, Ascot, Fullers and Adnams to name a few. By the time you read this,The Wiremill will have opened six boutique hotel bedrooms so now you never need to go home!

The Wiremill source their award-winning sausages from nearby Bridge Farm (Bowerland Lane, Lingfield) where Niall Crawley-Moore raises free range, additive-free pork and beef. The animals are butchered on the farm which dry cures bacon and ham and even has its own smokehouse.

The farm shop also sells a selection of meat from nearby farms in addition to their own products and Niall can be seen at farmers’ markets all over the region.

You may have already come across Brookland White (www. brooklandwhite.co.uk) free range chickens at butchers, farmer’s markets and restaurants all over Sussex. Unlike many birds labelled free range, Mike Pinard’s chickens spend most of their time outside because that is where they are fed.

They are reared in small flocks in open fields and given food that is 85 per cent grown on the farm and antibiotic-free. Brookland White chickens are slaughtered, processed and properly hung on the farm to produce a succulent table bird with great texture and full flavour that rightfully won a National Trust Fine Farm Produce Award in 2007.

Cherry Gardens Far m (B2198, Groombridge) is all set to be certified organic this March and then biodynamic next year, after the 25 acres was taken over by Kate and Jonathon in 2007. The farm is situated on the Kent and East Sussex border, overlooking the Sussex Weald.

Cherry Gardens Organic Farm Shop sells produce from the farm and other organic producers will as dry goods, dairy products, juices, meats, pies, cakes and bread.The farm will also offer PYO later this year. n

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CHEQUER INN STEYNING

Historic 15th Century Coaching Inn. The oldest pub in Steyning and at the foot of the South Downs.

TRADITIONAL & SPECIALITY HOME-COOKED FOOD We are proud that all of our fresh meat, handmade sausages, fish, bread, fruit, vegetables and eggs are from hand-picked local suppliers of the highest quality.

Local & award-winning ales plus a good selection of fine wines from around the world.

EAT SUSSEX LOYALTY CARD ACCEPTED HERE

A T

H

O

M

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)F YOU LOVE #HESTERTONS &OOD (ALL THEN YOU´LL ADORE #HESTERTONS !T (OME 4UCKED ABOVE OUR POPULAR DELICATESSEN IS OUR NEW ³SECRET RETREAT´ ° YOUR SECOND LOUNGE ° WHERE YOU CAN RELAX AMID OUR BEAUTIFUL DECOR ENJOY FRESHLY HOME COOKED FOOD AND WHILE AWAY THE HOURS ° UNHURRIED UNDISTURBED

Buy a three-course meal for two people (minimum) Monday-Thursday and get a complimentary bottle of house wine with your meal*

0ERFECT MEETING PLACE AWAY FROM THE #ITY

THE HUSSLE AND THE BUSSLE

GOOD FOOD, GOOD ALE, GOOD COMPANY.

7E CATER FOR ALL YOUR EVENTS AND FUNCTIONS

En-suite B & B accommodation is also available.

41 High Street, Steyning, West Sussex. BN44 3RE Tel: 01903 814437 Visit www.chequerinnsteyning.co.uk * One bottle per visit, offer not valid on Bank Holidays

Chequer Inn QP 0209.indd 1

Newly-opened and refurbished with stylish and cosy interior Hearty, wholesome modern British menu Fresh, seasonal and locallysourced ingredients Freshly cooked childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu All wines available by the glass or bottle

28 Upper Hamilton Road, Seven Dials, Brighton, BN1 5DF Telephone: 01273 556708 Lunch and dinner: Tuesday â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Saturday Sunday lunch: 12-6pm www.chimneyhousebrighton.co.uk

2/2/09 Chestertons 11:31:10 QP 0309.indd 1

12/2/09 13:46:24

%NJOY THE REAL TASTE OF SPRING

s "LUEBELL WALK THROUGH GLORIOUS SPRING m OWERS s #REAM TEAS IN OUR TEAROOM OR GARDEN s %ASTER AND HOLIDAY EVENTS AND ACTIVITIES

Full details at WWW WILDERNESSWOOD CO UK or call Open daily 10am-5.30pm On A272 in Hadlow Down village, 5 miles NE of Uckfield.

March/April 2009

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Cakes

Everything stops for tea Recipes by Dominic McCartan.

Photograpy by Jean-Luc Brouard.

These tasty traybakes and teatime treats are well worth taking a break for.

OLD-FASHIONED CHERRY CAKE This wonderful recipe comes courtesy of Sue Tennyson of East West Bakery.This cake should keep well in a tin for a few days but it’s so tasty that you probably won’t get the chance to find out!

MAKES ONE 9” (23cm) CAKE. 210g (7½oz) self-raising flour

85g (3oz) plain flour

250g (9oz) butter

250g (9oz) castor sugar

5 small eggs 340g (12oz) glace cherries 130g (4½oz) ground almonds

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Preheat oven to Gas Mark 4 / 180°C / 350°F. Grease and line the base of a 9” (23cm) springform tin.

Cream the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy — be aware that this takes longer than you think! Continue to beat lightly and add the eggs gradually using a spatula to scrape down in between each egg.

Sift together the flours and stir into the mix.

Sprinkle a little flour over the cherries (to stop them sinking or

sticking) and fold into the mix with the ground almonds using a metal spoon.

Spoon into the tin and make a slight dimple in the centre to prevent it rising up too much Bake for one to one and a half hours. It’s best to check after one hour and cover lightly with foil if the top is getting too dark.

Check it’s baked by pushing in a skewer: it should come out clean when it’s ready. Leave to cool on a wire rack and sprinkle with a little icing sugar.

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Cakes

GOOEY CHOCOLATE & PECAN BROWNIES These are based on a Linda McCartney recipe in the Green & Black’s Chocolate Recipes and I’ve found, after much experimenting with many others, that it gives the most intensely chocolately and satisfyingly sticky results.

MAKES AROUND 20 BROWNIES. 300g (10oz) organic dark chocolate 300g (10 oz) unsalted butter

450g (1lb) soft brown sugar

200g (7oz) plain flour

200g (7oz) pecan nuts, roughly chopped

5 eggs

1tsp vanilla extract Pinch salt

FRUIT & NUT MUESLI FLAPJACKS Use your favourite muesli to make these lovely flapjacks.Alternatively, just substitute rolled oats and any combination of dried fruit seeds and nuts of your choice.

MAKES AROUND 24 FLAPJACKS.

450g (1lb) muesli-style cereal (I used Dorset Cereals berries & cherries)

150g (5oz) porridge oats

250g (9oz) butter

200g (7oz) soft brown sugar 60 ml (2½fl oz) maple syrup 60ml (2 fl oz) golden syrup

Preheat oven to Gas Mark 2 / 150°C / 300°F. Line a baking tray with parchment paper.

In a heavy-based saucepan melt the butter, sugar and syrups over a medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar and prevent any sticking.

Once melted add the muesli and oats and mix well to combine all

the ingredients.

Press the mix into the baking tray and flatten down.

Bake in the oven for about 30 minutes until golden then remove and allow to cool slightly, before cutting into squares or oblongs.

Leave to cool in the tray and remove when cold and store in an airtight container.

Preheat oven to Gas Mark 4 / 180°C / 350°F. Line a 9” by 13” baking tray with parchment.

Put the butter and chocolate into an ovenproof bowl and place over a pan of simmering water (making sure the water doesn’t touch the bottom of the bowl) and allow to melt.

Beat the eggs and sugar until light, soft and very creamy. This will take a good five minutes in a

mixer and longer by hand. Beat in the melted chocolate, butter and vanilla essence.

Sift the flour and salt and stir into the mixture, followed by the chopped nuts.

Pour into the tray and bake for around 25 minutes or until the light crust starts to crack. The brownie should remain moist inside.

Leave until cool enough to handle and then cut into squares.

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Cute Country Cup Cakes are freshly baked to order, using only the finest, locally sourced ingredients, and then baked in Sara’s Farmhouse Aga which gives them their moist texture and buttery traditional vanilla flavour.

The perfect, alternative to the traditional Wedding Cake and great value as no wastage!

Cute and colourful for Children’s’ parties or a sweetener for corporate events & gifts and many more occasions besides.

$VUF $PVOUSZ $VQ $BLFT Call us to discuss your ideas…

Tel: 01903 812241 or 07977 186003.

Web: www.cutecountrycupcakes.co.uk

Cute Cakes QP 0309.indd 1

19/2/09 16:06:25

HIGH CLASS FRESH PRODUCE SUPPLIERS WHOLESALE & RETAIL SUPPLY FREE DELIVERY Please call us with your requirements, no matter how diverse!

We stock the largest range of fresh produce in the area, sourced locally wherever we can!

Please call in to see our beautiful shop in East Wittering

01243 672121/672722 www.munneries.co.uk

3 COURSES FOR 2 ANY SATURDAY EVENING IN MARCH ON PRODUCTION OF THE ADVERT

21 Shore Road, East Wittering, Sussex PO20 8DY March/April 2009

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Cakes

Millionaires’ Shortbread These chocolate-covered caramel shortbread squares are everybody’s favourite and so much nicer than shop-bought. Use dark or milk chocolate according to preference.

MAKES AROUND 24 BISCUITS. For the base:

225g (8oz) plain flour

110g (3oz) semolina

225g (8oz) butter

110g (4oz) castor sugar Pinch of salt For the caramel filling:

150g (5oz) butter

150g (5oz) castor sugar

2 tbsp golden syrup

1 tin condensed milk For the chocolate topping:

250g (9oz) good quality chocolate

NANA PEGGY’S WELSH CAKES There was outrage in Wales a few years ago when M&S tried to rename these delicious cakes ‘Drop Scones’. Many recipes now use just butter but Peggy insists that the secret to perfect Welsh cakes is in a combination of butter and lard. Ideally they are cooked on a bakestone (griddle) or the Simmering Plate on an Aga but a thick-bottomed frying pan works fine as long as it’s really heated through.

MAKES AROUND 20 WELSH CAKES.

Preheat oven to Gas Mark 2/ 150°C / 300°F. Line a Swiss roll tin with baking parchment.

Beat the butter and sugar with a wooden spoon until soft. Sift the flour and salt and mix with the butter, sugar and semolina until the come together into a dough (alternatively put the whole lot into a food processor). Press the mixture into the tin and prick with a fork. Bake for 30-40 minutes until cooked through and a light golden colour on top.

Allow to cool.

To make the caramel, place the butter, sugar, golden syrup and condensed milk in a small saucepan and heat gently. Simmer for five minutes or so or it’s nice and thick and then pour it over the biscuit base and leave to cool.

Melt the chocolate in a bowl over s pan of simmering water and pour on top of the cooled caramel. Allow to set before cutting into squares.

225g (8oz) self-raising flour

50g (2oz) butter, diced

50g (2oz) lard, diced

110g (4oz) caster sugar

75g (3oz) currants

1 egg, beaten Splash milk Pinch salt

Sift the flour and salt into a bowl.

Rub the butter and lard into the flour between your fingers until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs then mix in the sugar and currants.Add the beaten egg and bring all the ingredients together into a dough, using a little milk if required.

Roll out the dough on a floured

board to about 5mm thick and cut into rounds.

Heat a lightly greased bakestone or thick-bottomed pan thoroughly.

Cook the Welsh cakes for two to three minutes each side until browned. Serve hot of cold, with butter and jam, on their own or with a dusting of icing sugar.

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Cakes

EARL GREY TEA LOAF This is a lovely moist cake that is so simple to bake and keeps for ages.

Eat it on its own or spread a slice with some butter.You can, of course, use any tea you wish but I like it best with Earl Grey.

MAKES ONE 2LB (900G) LOAF

350g (12oz) dried mixed fruit 275g (10oz) self-raising flour 200g (7oz) soft brown sugar 425ml (¾pt) freshly-made Earl Grey tea 2 eggs, beaten

LEMON POLENTA CAKE This light, gluten-free cake brings a touch of sunshine into the kitchen.

MAKES ONE 9” (23cm) CAKE.

225g (8oz) butter

225g (8oz) castor sugar

225g (8oz) ground almonds

110g (4oz) polenta

3 eggs, beaten Zest of two lemons Juice of ½ lemon

1 tsp vanilla essence

1 tsp baking powder Pinch of salt.

For the lemon syrup:

1 orange, zest and juice

1 lemon, zest and juice

110g (4oz) castor sugar

36

Preheat oven to Gas Mark 4 / 180°C / 350°F. Line a 9” (23cm) springform cake tin.

Beat the butter, salt and sugar until light and creamy, with a processor or a wooden spoon.

Stir in the almonds and vanilla extract. Add the eggs a little at a time and continue to beat well.

Fold in the lemon zest and juice, then add the polenta and baking powder, mixing well.

Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for about 50 minutes or until the cake has

risen and is golden brown in colour (cover the top with foil if it colours too quickly).

To make the syrup, put the zest, juice and sugar in a measuring jug and top up with water to the 250ml (fl oz) mark. Pour into a saucepan, bring to the boil and simmer until the liquid has reduced by around a third.

When the cake is cooked and still warm in its tin, poke it on top a good few times with a skewer and pour the syrup over.Allow to cool before removing from the tin and serving.

Put the sugar and fruit in a bowl, pour over the tea and leave to soak overnight.

Preheat oven to Gas Mark 2/ 150°C / 300°F. Grease a 2lb (900g) loaf tin.

Add the flour and eggs to the fruit, sugar and tea and mix well.

Pour the mixture into the tin and bake for an hour and a half or until a skewer comes out clean.

Cool on a wire rack.

March/April 2009

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HOVE 86-87 Western Road Hove East Sussex BN3 1JB 01273 221 444

LEWES 18 Cliffe High Street Lewes East Sussex BN7 2AJ 01273 402650

HORSHAM

Enjoy our signature dishes at 2004 prices

Celebrating 5 years of Real Eating

24-26 East Street Horsham West Sussex RH12 1HL 01403 264741

Best British Menu Sunday Lunch Weekend Breakfasts British Cheese Shop On-Line Shop HOVE

LEWES

HORSHAM

Bright, cheerful and welcoming food pub in Fiveways Enjoy a gastronomic experience in a relaxed environment Fresh, seasonal, locally-sourced food cooked in our open kitchen Freshly cooked childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu All wines available by the glass or bottle

88 Havelock Road, Brighton, BN1 6GF Telephone: 01273 542271 real-eating.co.uk BOURNEMOUTH

Food served 7 days a week www.prestonparktavern.co.uk A5 flyer:Layout 1

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The project offers a range of services that includes: local veg box scheme stalls selling local produce smoothy bike and fruit shy hire healthy start vouchers supply community shops volunteering opportunities tel: 01424 201137 e-mail: info@fruitandveg.org web: www.fruitandveg.org Unit 33. Britannia Enterprise Centre, Waterworks Road, Hastings TN34 1RT.

March/April 2009

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Tasty!

The Beach House West Wittering

Licensed CafĂŠ/Restaurant and Guest House Licensed restaurant specialising in fresh fish and local produce.

A wonderful choice of quality fare to sample and buy from the local producers of the south east, with tastings, cookery classes, demonstrations and childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s activities. Plus displays and activities celebrating downland farming.

10 minutes walk from the beach, East Head and Chichester harbour.

Open Wed to Sun for Breakfast, coffees, snacks and lunch.

Open Fri & Sat all day and for dinner.

Food and Farming Fair

TWO COURSE LUNCH ÂŁ9.95.

Family & dog friendly.

Heated veranda.

7 en-suite twin, double and family rooms.

Sunday & Monday

Ample Parking.

3&4 May 10.30-5pm

PARTIES & FUNCTIONS CATERED FOR. TEL: 01243 514800 www.beachhse.co.uk info@beachhse.co.uk

WEALD & DOWNLAND OPEN AIR MUSEUM Singleton, Chichester, W. Sussex PO18 0EU 01243 811348 www.wealddown.co.uk

The Countryman Traditional country charm in a rural setting

The Countryman is set in open countryside close to the small village of Shipley. Inside youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find it warm and cosy in the winter and light and airy in the summer. There are cask-conditioned ales and 40 wines from around the world as well as fresh ground coffee and a range of classic and herb teas. Free-range meat and vegetables from local farms make their appearance on the menu alongside fresh fish from Shoreham and Newhaven with local game in season.

New for the summer: Open air garden kitchen serving a range of ploughman lunches with home baked bread, various BBQ grills and freshly made sandwiches and snacks.

Table reservations: 01403 741383

The Beach House 0209.indd 1

The Black Horse

2/2/09 11:20:00

BINSTED

Chris and Simon offer a warm and relaxed welcome to The Black Horse Freehouse in the idyllic location of Binsted.

While away the hours with our attentive service and sample our seasonal menu based on fresh, produce, locally-sourced where possible.

Our extensive wine list has been chosen to complement the menu. Be sure to save some room for our wonderful range of delicious desserts or perhaps a choice selection of cheeses washed down with a glass of port.

Reservations: 01243 551213

COUNTRYMAN INN, SHIPLEY, WEST SUSSEX. RH13 8PZ Web: www.countrymanshipley.co.uk Email: countrymaninn@btopenworld.com ,ES 2OUTIERS $INING 0UB OF THE YEAR s .OMINATED FOR 5+46 ,OCAL &OOD (ERO 7ILLIAM 2EED 0UBLISHING "EST &OOD 0UB s !! PUB 'UIDE 0REMIER 0UB 2ESTAURANT

Our winter festive menus for December are now available.

Reservation recommended to avoid disappointment.

The Black Horse | Binsted Lane | Binsted | West Sussex | BN18 OLP

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Drink Sussex

Small but perfectly formed

Drink Editor, David Furer, takes a look around a couple of Sussex micro-breweries and finds that some of the best things come in small packages.

1648 photos: Jim Holden

a separate building to settle the cask beers. David is responsible for all production while Robert handles the sales and marketing.

Quite the handyman, Seabrook was a cabinetmaker and furniture restorer and carries that ethos to their hand-crafted, qualityminded beers. “I’m more interested in making quality beer

1648 Brewing Company CAMRA members, Robert Wallace and David Seabrook, began brewing in East Hoathly’s old coaching stables in October 2003.The former stables abut The Kings Head, which is the primary outlet for the brewery’s quaffs.

They set about brewing with the aim of providing others, as well as their own pub, in mind. “We weren’t looking to become a big supplier but it’s grown at a steady rate since,” says Robert. Sales are increasing at 30-35 per cent year on year having swollen to 116,000 pints in 2008.

David Seabrook deals with the widely varying temperature problems in the brewery with great dexterity.“Wasps and 100+ heat with mesh and extractor fans in the summer, freezing pipes (just yesterday) and less than active yeasts needing a warm-up in the winter.” Last year they outgrew the facility and expanded into

A Guide to the Wines of England & Wales by PhilipWilliamson, David Moore, and Neville Blech (BTL Publishing Ltd).

Authors of the award-winning annual wine guide, Wine Behind the Label, have struck out with their first pocket guide. And why not keep it local? After all, English and Welsh wines are available at top restaurants and producers from Champagne are known to be looking out for

than in making money; profit isn’t everything, the product comes first. The business will grow only if we make good beer and don’t cut corners,” he states. “We use as many local ingredients as we possibly can. First local, then UK before we look outside our borders.”

In case you were wondering about the brewery’s name, 1648 refers to the year Charles I had his head removed. A crown is displayed on the brewery’s pump clips slightly tilted at the bottom in memory of the fallen monarch.

1648 has 14 beers in their range.

“We’re aiming to have four to six beers running at any one time,” says Seabrook. There’s room to expand their range,“but not a lot.

We don’t want to produce new beers just for the sake of it; there should be a reason.”

Their signature beer is called, appropriately, Signature after the

vinous investments across the Channel. Each chapter is detailed by vineyard, production, visiting sections, boxed vineyard facts, and a handful of individual wine reviews. It’s packed with evocative colour photos showing the places and personalities which make up our native wines.

Basic maps and ‘how to find us’ boxouts make it a snap to visit these vineyards so well defined

by Mssrs. Williamson, Moore, and Blech.

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Drink Sussex signatures upon the death warrant for Charles I and was the second beer they ever produced. It’s malty on the nose with a hoppy palate, generally light in character, and orientated towards summer drinking. Triple Champion, a regular carry, has a hoppy nose with a medium malty palate and a savoury, hoppy finish. Saint George is a straighter, honeyed, more typical English ale style.

Smokey Nol, has a bitter chocolate nose and taste with a hint of smoke. My favourite, along with the Triple Champion, this is a natural for a good cigar. Seabrook doesn’t have a personal favourite, preferring to alter his quaff with the season, while Robert’s tipple tends towards the Signature.

The guys at 1648 also dabble with flavours other than hops.

The 3.8% Festivale 30, brewed with elderflowers, was made in the summer of 2008 for the first time and fresh ginger is used in the winter regular Ginger Nol. Currently 70+ pubs are carrying 1648 beers throughout the Southeast and London.

Serving lunch and dinner every day in the town centre, the King’s Head offers a solid selection of typical pub fare with daily specials featuring fresh meats and veggies.

Robert Wallace has missed a beat in not posting pairings of his dishes with 1648’s beers, so stop by and create your own.

1648 BREWING COMPANY Mill Lane East Hoathly, Lewes East Sussex BN8 6QB 01825 840830 www.1648brewing.co.uk

The Kemptown Brewery

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The Kemptown Brewery was built in 1989 behind and above The Hand in Hand in Brighton.

Bev Robbins, founder and head brewer, sadly died in July 2006 and the lease has been on the market since then. Bev was a passionate beer & ale drinker, a former importer of Germany’s Hacker-Pschorr beers, who decked the little pub with loads of beer paraphernalia. He reckoned that the HiH was the smallest pub

in England with its own brewery.

When Dark Star pulled up stake for Ansty it became Brighton’s only brewer.

Manager, Matt Davies, 29, came aboard November 2007 and has transformed the neighbourhood fixture with a rough edge into a jovial local with live acoustic jazz on Sunday nights. Occasional quiz nights are run by a local fellow who peppers the questions with pranks.The HiH is a haunt for an eclectic mix of regulars comprised of curmudgeons (like yours truly) and codgers which, especially in the summer, is quickly overwhelmed by beach visitors and festival goers in for a pint.

“The homeless, yacht owners, writers, well-known musicians, they all get on famously,” claims Matt. It’s a cozy place with one old fruit machine, a 14-inch TV which is rarely on, and a 120year-old German piano played by an occasional bartender or the odd patron.

In the face of what’s likely to be a tough economic year, Davies says,“There are certain things you can do free — like making the music better, and things that cost money — like building a smoking bench on the pavement.We could build upstairs but that might destroy the soul of the pub,” he says. “I’d like to spend money to improve our tatty pub floor. My problem is that I can’t dedicate enough time to the more creative projects; I hope the next owner is able to see the potential in it.

The Kemptown Brewery currently doesn’t supply to other pubs but did under Bev’s stewardship.“Once I have the bar fully under control I can spend more time brewing and would be happy to supply other local

pubs,” states Davies. “According to our regulars I’ve got better at brewing; I’ve been tinkering with the malts a bit and deleted the Dragon’s Blood brand. I’ve discovered recipes which I’ll soon implement.” Matt told me that there were a number of problems when he first took over.The beer was thin and weak; barrels would explode because things weren’t being done properly. He called on Dark Star’s brewer, Mark Tranter, who spent a day with him, teaching him more than he’d have learned in a month on his own.

“There’s no reason we can’t brew five or six seasonal beers year-round and sell them around town,” he says with a hopeful air.

“We’re lucky in that we make our own ales, it may be our saving grace.” Regular pours are the Trout, a best bitter, and the standard Kemptown’ bitter. He wants to do more but feels he’s still walking rather than running.

Aside from Dark Star, guest beers from Adnam’s, Bath Ales, Exmoor, Fuller’s, Gale’s, Skinner, Welton’s, and Brains from Matt’s native Wales may be found at the pumps.

The Kemptown Brewery The Hand in Hand 33 Upper St. James Street Brighton Fancy spending eternity at a world-class wine school? Plumpton College’s winemaker/lecturer Peter Morgan is seeking individuals or businesses to sponsor its final three wine tasting booths.

Your sponsored booth will carry your name in perpetuity.

In addition doing so this will get you a half-priced, winethemed team building or education day in the new conference room alongside the Plumpton winery. Contact Peter on peter.morgan@ plumpton.ac.uk.

SUSSEX WHINE

In addition to the many great brewers and winemakers in our twin counties reside many personalities who enhance our growing drinks production with their communication and sales skills. Commencing here we begin our profiles.

For 37 years Worthing resident, John Radford, has been in the wine trade, first as an independent merchant and, since 1981, as a wine writer/ lecturer. He’s most notably associated with Spain with two recently published books, The New Spain: A Complete Guide to Contemporary Spanish Wine Mitchell Beazley ( and Cook España, Drink España: A Culinary Journey Around the Food and Drink of Spain with chef Mario Sandoval (Mitchell Beazley). He broadcasts on Splash FM in Worthing and lectures at Plumpton College.

A long-time enthusiast of English wine, especially sparklers from Sussex stalwarts Nyetimber, Ridgeview and Bookers, Radford serves on the executive of the Circle of Wine Writers. See more of John’s work and read his amusing, informative blog at www.johnradford.com.

East Sussex BN2 1JN Californian David Furer is a drinks/food/travel writer and 01273 699595

marketer based in Brighton. When not tasting, teaching, or writing of wines & spirits he may be found scouring Sussex for its grainy quaffs.

March/April 2009

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Farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Markets in Sussex East Sussex Battle 3rd Saturday of every month, 9am-1pm, Battle Abbey Green Tel: 01424 751575

Bexhill 4th Thursday of every month, 9am-12noon, Parkhurst Methodist Hall, Parkhurst Road Tel: 01424 222969

Brede Every Friday, 10am-12noon, Brede Village Hall Tel: 01424 882836

Brighton & Hove 1st Sunday of every month, 10am-3pm, Ralli Hall, next to Hove Station Tel: 01273 323200

Brighton & Hove 4th Saturday of every month, 10am-3pm, George Street, Hove Tel: 01273 470900

Crowborough 4th Saturday of every month, 9am-1pm, Wealden District Council car park Tel: 01892 664064

Crowhurst Village market 1st Saturday of every month, 10am-12noon, Crowhurst Village Hall Tel: 01424 830461

East Dean Village Market Every Wednesday, 10.30am-12.30pm, East Dean Village Hall Tel: 01323 423481

Firle 4th Sunday of the month, March to November, 10am-2pm, Middle Farm on A27 near Firle Tel: 01323 811411

Hailsham 2nd Saturday of every month, 9am-12.30pm, Hailsham Cattle Market Tel: 01323 833359

Hastings 2nd and 4th Thursday of every month, 9am-2pm, Robertson Street (next to Debenhams) Tel: 01424 457109

Heathfield 3rd Saturday of every month, 9am12.30pm, Heathfield Co-op car park Tel: 01435 862798

Lewes 1st Saturday of every month, 9am-1pm, Cliffe Pedestrian Precinct Tel: 01273 470900

Pevensey Bay village market 2nd Saturday of every month, 8.45am-11.45am, St Wilfridâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hall, Eastbourne Road Tel: 01323 460178

West Sussex Arundel

3rd Saturday of every month, 9am-1pm, Town Centre Tel: 01903 884772 / 07881 687694

Uckfield 1st Saturday of every month, 9am-1pm, Luxford Car Park Tel: 01825 760646

Pulborough

Billingshurst

Last Saturday of every month, Feb to Dec, 9am-12noon, Pulborough Village Hall Tel: 01903 891476 / 07752 364832

Chichester

2nd Saturday of every month, 9am-1pm, East St Tel: 01273 263152

East Grinstead

4th Thursday of every month (excl.

Dec), 8.30am-12.30pm, Coronation Hall, Reynolds Lane Tel: 01243 814777

3rd Wednesday of every month, 9am-1pm, Jengers Mead Tel: 01403 215386 1st and 3rd Friday of every month, 9am-2pm, East St & North St Tel: 01243 785166 Every Thursday 9am-2pm, High St Tel: 01932 788001

Hassocks

4th Saturday of every month, 9am-1pm, National Tyres Forecourt Rachellovell@hotmail.com

Haywards Heath

2nd and 4th Thursday of every month, 9am-2pm, The Orchards Shopping Centre Tel: 01932 788001

Henfield

3rd Friday of every month, 9am-1pm, Henfield Hall Car Park Tel: 01273 492595

Horsham

Rye Every Wednesday, 10am-1pm, Strand Quay Tel: 01797 280282

Petworth 4th Saturday of alternate months (Dec, Feb), 8.30am-1.30pm, Market Square Tel: 01243 785166

Every Saturday, 9am-5pm, Carfax (Town Centre) Tel: 01403 215386

Midhurst

4th Saturday of alternate months (Nov, Jan), 8.30am-1.30pm, Capron House Car Park Tel: 01243 785166

Shoreham-by-Sea

Slindon

Southwater Every Tuesday, 9am-1pm, Lintot Square, Tel: 01243 814777

Steyning 1st Saturday of every month, 9am-1pm, High St Car Park (opp Clock Tower) Tel: 01403 711057

West Chiltington 2nd Saturday of every month, 9am-12noon, Village Hall Tel: 01798 815455

Wisborough Green 2nd Thursday of every month, 9am-12.30pm, Village Hall Tel: 01403 700624

Worthing 4th Saturday of every month, 9am-2pm, South St Square Tel: 01903 203252

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March/April 2009 Black Pearl Restaurant QP 0309.indd 1 Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 41

18/2/09 16:38:37 21/2/09 10:42:36

The Wild Side

Fergus Drennan My own private pike

I

42

’ve never written about fishing before; partly because I don’t do it that often, yet also because, perhaps quite wrongly, I feel people will respond in a way similar to myself when the subject is mentioned: I’ve a completely foundationless bias against the whole endeavour that makes me yawn and fall asleep at the very mention. Of course, as I say, this is grossly unfair, and I only mention it, ironically, to encourage you to fish.

How? Well, if I have such an outrageous attitude there must be others. However, even for such an anti-fishing curmudgeonly cynic as myself — and perhaps you as well, I believe that there is one fish in particular that is so rewarding in terms of culinary versatility and ease of capture that anyone can become fanatically inspired: it is none other than the humble or perhaps not so humble pike.

Now, I expect that at the very mention of pike the words

‘terribly boney’ or ‘tastes muddy’ came to mind? True, although it’s not particularly problematic, there’s no denying the former, but it’s a bit of a cliché that pikes taste muddy, of all the river pike I’ve eaten over the past 15 years, none have tasted that way. Pike is a sweetish-tasting white fish,

somewhat similar to cod in both texture and flavour — only better.

In short, it’s delicious!

The pike (Esox lucius) is a voracious predator feeding extensively on fish but, an opportunist like all good foragers, will not pass up on insect larvae, frogs, water rats and ducks. Indeed, sometimes they are too greedy for their own good. A few years ago staff at the Lincolnshire Wildlife Trust found a four-foot pike dead with a Tufted duck stuck in its throat. In a similar incident, a swan and pike died together when the latter tried to devour the poor swan’s head whilst it fed.

Any time, apart from during the closed season (15th March15th June), it’s worth slinging in a length of double treble-hooked line with half a mackerel tied firmly on. I rarely even bother with a rod. In my experience, within an hour you’ll have caught at least one 4kg pike. If not, pack up, go home and try another day.

Alternatively, good fishmongers occasionally sell pike and, if they don’t, they are usually more than happy to get one in for you.

Pike can be stuffed and ovenbaked, poached, smoked, battered and deep fried, pan-fried, grilled, steamed, used for soup or wrapped in seaweed and baked in a sand oven. However, there are also a few classic dishes worth

trying such as the Medieval Pike in Galentyne — basically the fish cooked and set in its own jelly, and the French classic, Pike Quenelles.

Larousse Gastronomique, old cook books such as the delightful Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery (1869) as well as, of course, the internet are good sources for inspirational pike recipes.

Right now I’m sitting in a room suffused with the wonderful aroma of pike, oysters and seaweed; all of which I’m dehydrating and powdering in order to have a delicious instant wild food soup to hand when I’m on the move. The pike is actually only about half of a seven kilo monster I caught yesterday.

Interestingly, as it’s coming up to spawning season, this large female pike contained a whole pound of delicious roe. According to Larousse, “at spawning time the roe and eggs are slightly toxic (but they are eaten in some countries, especially Romania).”

Fair warning, but pike caviar is a commercially available delicacy and so, undaunted, I’ve came up with the following recipe. It’s a fascinating one in that it satisfies certain hunger pangs that, in the past I’ve never been able to satisfy; you know, it’s about 11.30pm and you really want something to eat but you’re just not sure exactly what? Well, this is the answer! n

PIKE ROE, DULSE, KELP AND SEA PURSLANE FISH CAKES MAKES 15 CAKES (THREE PER PORTION)

450g (1lb) pike roe (or ½lb roe and ½lb filleted pike flesh) 300g (10oz) fresh dulse (Palmaria palmate)

110g (3oz) oarweed (Laminaria digitata)

250g (9oz) sea purslane leaves

150g (5oz) mashed potato (fairly dry)

110g (4oz) plain flour

2 large eggs 110ml (4oz) olive oil Sea salt and pepper Olive oil for frying

Preheat oven to Gas Mark 4 / 180°C / 350°F. Liquidize the pike roe with 110ml of olive oil.

Bake in a covered dish for 20 minutes.

Roughly chop the dulse and cut the kelp in to one-inch (2.5cm) long thin strips – as thin as you can get. Combine all the ingredients to make a mixture that is moist but not too sticky (add more flour if it

is). Form into small flat cakes about 2 inch (5cm) in diameter and about ½” (1½cm) thick. Shallow fry them in olive oil for 10-15 minutes until golden brown, turning over once.

Best served on a bed of steamed sea beet with hollandaise sauce.

March/April 2009

Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 42

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Eat Sussex Issue 9.indd 44

21/2/09 10:43:02