Culinary Tales of My Island - Chef Roziro & Chef Dammika

Culinary tales of my Island

by Executive Chef Roziro Mathais

& Executive Pastry Chef Dammika Herath

Chef Roziro I hail from Kalutara, the western province of Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka is an island country in South Asia. Growing up, food was at the centre of everything we did – at our large family gatherings, wedding, religious ceremonies, holidays and various feasts at home.

f Young Che

Roziro

Chef R

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Baby Roziro

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For many that don’t know Sri Lanka is

Growing up in the picturesque landscapes

known as the Spice Island and its climatic

of Sri Lanka, every meal was a celebration of

conditions are perfect to cultivate and grow

tradition and love. From the spicy allure of a

spices such as cinnamon, pepper, cloves,

fragrant curry to the comforting embrace of

cardamoms and many more! In the heart of

coconut milk infused rice, our table was a

Sri Lanka, where the aroma of spices dances

canvas painted with the colors of our

in the air and the symphony of flavors

heritage. The dining room was where

brings families together, I found not just

stories were shared, lessons were learned

meals but cherished memories.

and laughter echoed, all guided by the

My food memoirs are a testament to the

culinary artistry of my mother.

enchanting cuisine that shaped my upbringing and at the heart of it all, it is a tribute to my mother – my ultimate food inspiration.

My mother was an exceptional cook.

The rhythmic pounding of spices in the

The earliest memories of my childhood

mortar and pestle was a prelude to the

were the aromas of the spices that filled our

magic she would create in the kitchen.

house, when my mother cooked the robust

It was as if each dish carried the essence of

curries at home. The spices were locally

her love and dedication, infusing every bite

sourced and freshly grounded at home,

with warmth and familiarity.

pounded till they released their essence.

Her hands moved with grace that only comes from years of mastering the art of Sri Lankan cooking.

Being from the west coast area, I grew up

We’d enjoy the same with my mother’s

around the beach. I’d go fishing with my

spicy sambal, brinjal pickle and rice.

father and my siblings over the weekend.

The fresh fish caught would also be

We’d pick the freshest catch from what the

preserved in a “Jadi” a barrel used to store

Sri Lankan’s sea had to offer, the best of the

salted fish, which would be relished later.

seafood caught that very morning.

Once back home, the fish would be marinated in Amma’s special spice mix, the freshly grounded spices and the marinade enveloped the fish, until it was ready to be cooked – sometimes fried and sometimes cooked over the griddle.

Special occasions demanded special food

started before, thanks to my mother and

and one such treat we would look forward

my country’s rich culinary heritage and

to is the world renowned Sri Lankan Crab

flavors. Through her teachings, I learned

curry – a curry that uses 12 aromatic spices,

that Sri Lankan cuisine was more than just a

blended to form a paste, cooked in

collection of recipes; it was a storybook that

sublimely sweet coconut milk, garnished

held the tales of our people, our land and

with fresh Moringa leaves. Amma - my

our way of life. From the bustling markets

mother had mastered this curry and it was a

where we sourced our ingredients to the

recipe that was passed down to her from

kitchen where magic happened, every step

her mother. Till this day it’s the best meal I

was a reminder of our food and culture

have had. My love for cooking came from

coming together to create lingering

my mother. She taught me the right

flavorsome memories.

balance of flavors and textures. I have been in the culinary industry for over 21 years, and whilst my technical training started at the culinary college, my love affair with food

As I look back on my formative years,

In sharing these food memoirs, I hope to

I realize that my mother's influence

not only honor the rich tapestry of Sri

extended far beyond the kitchen. She

Lankan cuisine but also pay homage to the

instilled in me the importance of preserving

remarkable woman who made it all

traditions, fostering a deep appreciation for

possible. My mother's legacy lives on

the stories that each dish carried.

through every bite, every aroma and every

Today, when I'm preparing Ambul Thiyal

joyful gathering around the table.

with my modern take on it, I feel her

As I continue to explore the world and its

presence beside me, guiding my hands and

flavors, I carry with me the invaluable

infusing the food with her spirit.

lessons she imparted and the flavors that will forever be etched in my heart. In the

The signature dishes presented in this

end, I will always hold onto her wise words,

menu is a culmination of traditionally

her instilling in me the belief that the only

inspired dishes and my take of few of the

way to cook is to cook from the heart.

dishes I have grown up eating.

My food will forever be an ode – a love affair with Sri Lankan food and the memoirs of Amma’s recipes.

Sri Lankan Crab Curry

Sri Lankan Crab Curry Ingredients 1. 1 kg Mud Crabs cleaned and cut in half

For the coconut and rice mixture 1. 2 tbsp raw rice

2. 4 tbsp (1/4 cup) freshly grated coconut

For the curry 1. 2 tbsp coconut oil

11. 2 tsp black peppercorns

2. ½ onion, roughly chopped

12. 1 tsp fennel seeds

3. 1 inch fresh ginger, minced

13. 8 curry leaves

4. 6 whole garlic cloves, roughly chopped

14. 2 pandan leaves

5. 2 tbsp unroasted curry powder

15. 400 ml coconut milk

6. ½ tsp red chili powder

16. Salt to taste

7. 1 tbsp tamarind paste

17. Moringa leaves

8. 3 fresh red or green chilies 9. 2 tsp cumin seeds 10. ½ tsp mustard seeds *tbsp: tablespoon

*tsp: teaspoon

Preparation • Heat a large saucepan or clay pot over medium heat. When hot, add the rice and grated coconut and dry fry until lightly browned and fragrant. Transfer to a pestle and mortar and pound to a fine powder. Set aside • Add about 2 tbsp coconut oil to a large pan or clay pot. You will need a large enough pot to be able to stir the crabs. Heat the oil over a medium heat • Add the mustard seeds, fennel seeds, cumin seeds, onion, ginger, garlic and black peppercorns sauté for a few minutes until the onions have softened • Now add the curry powder, chili powder, and coconut/rice mix. Cook for 2-3 minutes until the spices become fragrant • Add the tamarind paste, chili peppers, curry leaves and pandan plus ¾ of the coconut milk.

Then season with salt as per taste. Bring to a boil • Place the crabs in the sauce and gently stir to coat the crabs in the sauce • Bring this back to a boil on medium-high heat then lower the heat to medium • Cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes until the crabs are just cooked through • Make sure to turn the crabs half way through to ensure they are well coated in the sauce • Add extra coconut milk if you prefer it creamier or up to ½ cup water to dilute it if you like • Finish with fresh Moringa leaves • Serve warm with steamed rice or bread

Brinjal Moju

Brinjal Moju Ingredients 1. 2 tbsp coconut oil

8. 3 fresh red or green chilies

2. ½ onion, roughly chopped

9. 2 tsp cumin seeds

3. 1 inch fresh ginger, minced

10. ½ tsp mustard seeds

4. 6 whole garlic cloves, roughly chopped

11. 2 tsp black peppercorns

5. 2 tbsp unroasted curry powder

12. 1 tsp fennel seeds

6. ½ tsp red chili powder

13. 8 curry leaves

7. 1 tbsp tamarind paste

14. 2 pandan leaves

*tbsp: tablespoon

*tsp: teaspoon

Preparation • Cut the eggplant to required size • Place the eggplant in a bowl or a flat surface, add salt to season and turmeric. Leave aside for 10 minutes • Place a frying pan over medium heat and pour in the oil to reach frying temperature • Squeeze out any extra liquid off the eggplant strips, fry them until they turn golden in colour or a dark brown • Place the fried eggplant in paper towels to absorb oil • Use the same oil to fry the shallots and green chilies for 1-2 minutes over low-medium fire • In a separate bowl, add mustard powder, ginger-garlic paste, salt to season, chili powder, sugar, and vinegar. Combine well until sugar dissolves • Adjust the pickling sauce as per your liking • Add the shallots and green chilies and combine well • Add the fried eggplant to the pickling onions and green chilies • Set aside for at least 2-3 hours before serving for a better-tasting Wambatu Moju

Tempered Potatoes

Tempered Potatoes Ingredients 1. 500 g new potatoes, washed

8. 1½ tbsp (30 ml) coconut or vegetable oil

2. ½ tsp ground turmeric

9. ½ lime

3. 2 tsp salt

For the temper 1. 1½-2 tbsp, (30-40 ml) coconut or vegetable oil

6. 3 tsp Maldive fish flakes, optional

2. 1 medium red onion, peeled and finely sliced

7. Pandan leaf

3. 10 fresh curry leaves

8. 1 tsp chili powder (or 3 dried red chilies)

4. 1 garlic clove, peeled and sliced

9. 1 tsp mustard seeds

5. 1 green chili, finely sliced

*tbsp: tablespoon

*tsp: teaspoon

Preparation • Put the potatoes in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Add the turmeric and salt. Bring to the boil, then turn down to simmer and cook for 15–20 minutes, until the potatoes are just tender enough to insert a fork. Drain well • Take a large frying pan, heat the 2 tablespoons of oil. When the oil is shimmering, add the potatoes. With a fork, gently press down on each potato, breaking the skin and smashing them a bit. Cook for 2–3 minutes till golden brown. Transfer to a bowl for tempering • Pour 2 tablespoons of oil into the frying pan. When hot, add the onion and cook until it starts to go translucent • Add the curry leaves, garlic, green chili, Maldive fish and Pandan leaf. Stir-fry for 2–3 minutes, until the curry leaves are bright green. Add the chili powder or dried red chilies, mustard seeds. When the seeds start to pop, return the potatoes to the pan and stir through, coating thoroughly in the spicy mixture. Finish with lime juice

Pumpkin Curry

Pumpkin Curry Ingredients For tempering 1. 4-5 tbsp of oil

5. 1/2 tsp of chili flakes

2. A handful of curry leaves

6. 1/4 tsp of turmeric powder

3. 1 large onion sliced fine

7. 1 tsp of mustard seeds

4. 2 garlic cloves sliced fine

8. 2 tsp roasted grated coconut and white rice

To cook the pumpkin curry 1. 500 g of pumpkin, cleaned and cut into the required size 2. 3 garlic cloves finely sliced

6. 1 cup of water (keep aside 1/2 a cup of water just in case you need more to semi cook the pumpkin before adding the coconut milk)

3. 1/2 tsp turmeric

7. 2 cups of thick coconut milk

4. 3 cardamom pods

8. 2 tsp grated coconut

5. 1 inch cinnamon piece

9. 2 tsp white rice

*tbsp: tablespoon

*tsp: teaspoon

Preparation For tempering • In a pan over medium heat, using three tablespoons of oil, temper the chopped curry leaves, onion, garlic.

• While the onions are cooking add the turmeric, chili flakes and mustard seeds • Continue cooking for another 2 minutes over low heat. Transfer ingredients to a bowl and set aside. Make sure to do the tempering without burning the mustard or the red chili flakes

Preparation for pumpkin curry • Using the same tempering pan, add the pumpkin and pour in the water • The pumpkin cubes should be soft before you add the coconut milk • Set the heat to medium and while the pumpkin is cooking, add turmeric, garlic, cardamom pods, cinnamon • Mix well with the pumpkin and let it slow simmer for 20-30 minutes • Once the pumpkins are tender, reduce heat, pour in the coconut milk, taste again and season with salt if needed • Slow simmer over medium heat for 15 minutes. Cook until the desired consistency is reached • Meanwhile, heat a small frying pan and dry-fry the rice and coconut until brown and fragrant. Grind to a powder in a mortar or blender • Add the rice and coconut powder to the curry and cook for a few more minutes. Serve with rice or bread

Coconut Sambal

Coconut Sambal Ingredients 1. Freshly scraped coconut 2. 4 medium-sized onions chopped 3. 1 large tomato chopped 4. 2 limes 5. 3 green chili finely sliced 6. 1-2 teaspoons of red chili powder (as per your need) 7. Salt to taste 8. 2 teaspoons of pounded Maldive fish (optional)

*tbsp: tablespoon

*tsp: teaspoon

Preparation • If you are using a mirisgala or a small mortar, add the sliced onions, green chilies, Maldive fish (do not add if you are a vegetarian or vegan), tomatoes, green chilies, chili powder, to a mortar and lightly pound for 3-5 minutes • If you are using a “mirisgala” make sure to crush the shallots first as you don’t want them bouncing off the stone • Once all the ingredients are coarsely crushed, add in the scraped coconut, lime and salt to season • Pound the coconut lightly with the ingredients while using a spoon to scrape and mix while the light pounding continues for 3 minutes • Once done transfer to a large bowl, taste and season with lime, salt as needed • Making the Pol Sambal by hand • Add the scraped coconut into a large bowl, followed by onions, green chilies, tomatoes, salt to season, lime juice, chili powder and Maldive fish • Combine until all the ingredients are mixed. Taste and season with salt and lime • Meanwhile, heat a small frying pan and dry-fry the rice and coconut until brown and fragrant. Grind to a powder in a mortar or blender

Chef Dammika My story starts with me as a 6 year old boy who grew up in Bibile, Uve Province of Sri Lanka. Growing up I was a mischievous kid. I was forever gallivanting in by lanes of my streets, playing hide and seek with my friends, climbing up coconut trees and running off to lakes for a dip.

his bi Baby Da ggest m inspir mika wit h ation his A mma

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Baby Dammika

One very vivid memory that I have of my

A perfect way to allure kids to purchase the

childhood, till this day is that of my visits to

sweet goodies such as Kalu Dodol – a dark

the local grocer’s shop. A small hole in the

and sticky sweet dish consists mainly of

wall shop that sold all the basic household

kithul jiggery (from the sap of the toddy

items, fruits and vegetables and locally

palm), rice flour and coconut milk.

baked bread, snacks and sweets.

My other favorite pick was the Aluwa

The shop fell on my enroute to my school

(made from Rice flour, sugar, milk, butter,

every day. As I walked past the little store,

spices - cardamom, cloves). These acts of

I’d flash my biggest smile to the shopkeeper

sweet kindness by the local grocer is what

– Mudalali as called in Sinhalese.

made my days! I would look forward to what

I can’t recollect the lovely shopkeepers

sweet he would treat me with.

name today as the shop no longer exists, but I remember his generosity and kindness to me as a little boy. My very bright smile won me a local sweet – always sweet something from the magical jar which was nicely placed at the shop counter.

As long as I can remember, I had a soft

To this day, the sounds and smells of the

corner for all things sweet! I’d sneak into my

ceremonies fill my mind. The aromas of the

Amma’s kitchen and steal jaggery from the

incense sticks burning, that of the flowers

top shelves of the kitchen counter.

that got placed at the foot of the shrine and

My Amma would intentionally place the jar

the aromas of all my favorite sweets filling

high up, further from my reach as she knew

the house temple. Ah..there is nothing like

it was my vice. However, I’d find ways climb

the smell of the coconut treacle to make the

up the counter and grab the sweet

Konda Kavum!

goodness I was so fond of.

Being a Buddhist, my home was privy to many religious ceremonies and festivals.

Festivals was a time when families gathered together performing ceremonies.

I remember the days leading up to the

My hometown Bibile is known for its

festivities, I use to closely observe my

oranges. One of my fondest memories of

mother and sisters prepping for the big

my childhood is running off to the orange

ceremonies and feasts ahead. They would

orchard near my house and plucking fresh

sit on the floor of the kitchen. I remember

oranges off the tree, slicing them then and

this scene like it was yesterday. I will forever

there and enjoying its citrus sweetness.

be grateful to my mother and sisters for

My Amma used to buy the fresh oranges

making me a part of their cooking process,

and give me freshly squeezed juice, a

for letting me sit there to soak in every hand

respite in the summer heat. It goes without

movement whilst rolling into sheets the

saying that orange is my favorite fruit and

Aluwa or the delicate process of spreading

my Orange cake is a small, nostalgic tribute

the Raggi flour and caramel sugar paste

to my childhood and where I come from.

into the Kanda leaves. Just sitting and observing them work, taught me skills I hold very dear to my heart.

It’s interesting how ones childhood

Now with over 24 years of experience of

experiences can have such a profound

working across various positions in the

impact on their grown up years. My love for

pastry kitchen and heading the Pastry

sweets lead me to discover and find my love

division of 8 hotels in Dubai, it’s the

and passion for the culinary arts.

nostalgic flavors and textures of my

The delightful experiences of savoring

childhood that have played a significant

sweets during my childhood in my small

impact on me. Today, I have combined my

town in Sri Lanka, ignited a deep

knowledge of traditional Sri Lankan

appreciation for flavors and curiosity in

ingredients and techniques with modern

wanting to learn how these sweets were

pastry concepts, resulting in innovative and

made. Those fond memories inspired me to

delightful creations for our guests to try.

become a Pastry Chef, allowing to learn not just about the Sri Lankan sweets but so much more. I later in life embarked on my culinary path, seeking formal education and training to refine my skills.

I want to through my work, continue to

My inspiration comes from my roots.

inspire and highlight the importance of

Every dessert I craft is not just a

staying connected to one’s heritage while

figmentation but also a tribute to

embracing new culinary horizons.

the flavors and the people that

I truly believe just like each ingredient plays

shaped my journey thus far.

its part in a recipe, every experience in life molds us into the Chef we become.

I became the Chef I am today owing to not just my love for sweets, but also the love I saw being poured into every dessert, sweet dish my mother and sisters made.

Watalappan

Watalappan Ingredients 1. 6 eggs 2. 250 g palm jaggery 3. 2 cups coconut milk 4. 1 tsp cardamom powder 5. 1 stick cinnamon 6. 2 pods of cloves 7. 50 g chopped cashew nuts 8. ½ cup water

*tbsp: tablespoon

*tsp: teaspoon

Preparation • Preheat the oven at 120°c • Pour water into a pot and add jaggery on low heat. Add cinnamon stick and cloves once the jaggery has completely melted, remove from heat and allow it to cool • Beat the eggs and gradually add the melted jaggery and coconut to it • Add and mix the cardamom powder • Strain the mix • Pour the mixture in a baking tray and place this baking tray in another tray filled with water • Place the baking tray in the oven and bake for 50 minutes • You will know it is done when it is wobbly in the center • Let it cool. It can also be refrigerated • Sprinkle with chopped cashew nuts and serve

Aluwa

Aluwa Ingredients 1. 200 g - white rice flour 2. 150 g - jaggery 3. 1 tbs - cardamom powder 4. Pinch of black pepper 5. Pinch of salt for taste

*tbsp: tablespoon

*tsp: teaspoon

Preparation • Roast the white rice flour • Make the jaggery into a syrup with medium heat to get a thick syrup • Let the syrup cool down and mix with rice flour • Add the cardamom and black pepper into the mix • Texture of the mix should be thick • Add more flour if needed • Dust a good amount of the flour on to the wooden board, pour the Aluwa mixture on to the board • Dust some of the reserved roasted rice flour on top of the Aluwa, roll it out nice and thick • Cut the pieces as shown in the picture • Leave it to cool down

Kokis

Kokis Ingredients 1. 40 g - all-purpose flour 2. 240 g - rice flour 3. 1/2 tsp - salt 4. 1/2 tsp - turmeric powder 5. 1 tsp - sugar 6. 900 ml - coconut milk 7. 70 ml - water

*tbsp: tablespoon

*tsp: teaspoon

Preparation • Add the rice flour, all-purpose flour, salt, turmeric and sugar to a large bowl and whisk to combine. Add the coconut milk and water little at a time and whisk until a thick, smooth batter forms. Transfer a small portion of batter to a small, deep bowl where the Kokis mold can fit • Heat the coconut oil in a deep frying pan or wok over medium heat until you can insert a wooden chopstick into the oil and bubbles immediately start to form around it • Heat the Kokis mold in the hot oil for 15-20 seconds, then gently shake the mold to remove excess oil. Dip the mold into the batter until the batter touches the upper rim of the mold, then immediately dip the mold with the batter into the hot oil. Fry with the mold for about 1 minute to set the shape, then lift and remove the mold and continue frying until golden yellow and crispy, about 45 seconds more. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and repeat with the remaining batter • Let the Kokis cool completely before serving. Leftover Kokis should be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days

Marie Biscuit Pudding

Marie Biscuit Pudding Ingredients 1. 30 pieces - Marie biscuits 2. 720 ml - milk 3. 240 ml - cream 4. 100 g - sugar 5. 15 g - cocoa powder 6. 160 g - dark chocolate 7. 240 ml milk

*tbsp: tablespoon

*tsp: teaspoon

Preparation • In a small bowl whisk 1/2 cup milk (120ml) with the cornstarch until no lumps and set it aside • In a saucepan place the remaining milk, heavy cream, sugar, cocoa powder and heat until sugar is melted. When sugar is melted and the mixture is simmering, reduce to medium-low heat, pour in milk-cornstarch mixture and stir until it thickens. Turn the heat off and add chopped chocolate, stir until melted and set aside • Dip the biscuits in the milk and arrange in the bottom of 13”x 9” (32x22cm) dish. Spread 1/3 of the chocolate cream over the biscuit layer. Then arrange another layer of dipped biscuits.

Spread another 1/3 of cream over the biscuits. Arrange last (third) layer of dipped biscuits on top and spread the last layer of chocolate cream • Before serving, shave some chocolate and cashews on top for garnish

Naran Kawum

Naran Kawum Ingredients Kawum mix

Batter

1. 200 g - sugar

1. 1 egg

2. 200 g - grated coconut

2. 200 g - rice flour

3. 300 g - rice flour

3. 400 g - coconut milk

4. 1 tsp - salt

4. 25 g flour

5. 1 tsp - cardamom powder

5. Salt

6. Few drops of vanilla essence

Preparation • Mix grated coconut and rice flour together. Add some water and mix if you feel it is a bit dry and form into balls • After mixing, steam this mixture for about 45 minutes. When you do so, the Kawum can be kept for around 2-3 days more than just making it with pani pol • After steaming crush this again into tiny balls • To make the sugar caramel, put a small amount of sugar to your frying pan and let it melt under low heat *tbsp: tablespoon *tsp: teaspoon

• When the sugar is bubbling, put one cup of hot water into it • Mix this well and cook for around 5 minutes • Then, add the flour coconut mixture little by little and mix • This needs to be cooked for around 10-15 mins until it becomes a smooth sticky coconut paste • Once this is ready, transfer this to a board and let it cool down • Then make small Kawum balls from this mixture

Preparation for the batter • For this, mix egg, coconut milk and salt together • Then add rice flour and mix • Now add all purpose flour and mix • Mix this with flour until this becomes a smooth thick batter • At this stage, you can add turmeric powder to the batter to get more yellow color to the Kawum • Once the oil is heated well, dip Kawum balls in the batter and put them into the oil • Once Kawum becomes golden brown get it out of oil and place it on a net or a tissue • Do the same for the rest of mixture

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