Product Analysis: H&M Boys Polo Shirt

WORD COUNT: 877 words in section 1 & 1929 words in section 2

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT FASH10003 Product Analysis Project: Child´s Polo Shirt

by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

CONTENT

Page 2 LIST OF FIGURES

Page 3 to 11

SECTION 1 Garment, material and production specification.

Page 12 to 16

SECTION 2

ABSTRACT

Analysis of fibres and fabrics, costings and global supply chain.

The aim of this report is to analyse all details of an already finished garment, realising how many decisions must be made to end up with a best-selling garment and how minor misunderstandings with other people working on the product can have major impacts. The product is the most important part in the fashion industry and needs to be exactly right to generate as much profit as possible for the retailer.

Page 17

REFERENCES

Page 18 to 19 BIBLIOGRAPHY

01

Fig.: 1

Page 20 to 22 APPENDIX

LIST OF FIGURES

02

Fig.: 1

p.1-16

•

Authors own, Boys Polo Shirt Front, 2022

Fig.: 44

p. 9

•

Fashionary, 2019. Business Fashion Manual. Fashionary International Ltd, pp. 77, [illustration].

Fig.: 2

p. 4-7

•

Authors own, CAD coloured, 2022

Fig.: 45

p. 9

•

Knit Concern, 2019. Checking. [image] Available at: http://knitconcern.com/quality-assurance.htm [Accessed 12 May 2022].

Fig.: 3

p. 4

•

Authors own, CAD After care symbols, 2022

Fig.: 46

p. 9

•

Knit Concern, 2019. Packaging. [image] Available at: http://knitconcern.com/quality-assurance.htm [Accessed 12 May 2022].

Fig.: 4

p. 4

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Authors own, Boys Polo Shirt Insides, 2022

Fig.: 47

p. 9

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Authors own, Shirt in poly bag, 2022

Fig.: 5

p. 4

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Authors own, CAD B/W, 2022

Fig.: 48

p. 10

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Authors own, Global supply chain, 2022

Fig.: 6

p. 5

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Authors own, CAD B/W with measuremnts, 2022

Fig.: 49

p. 10

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TextileExchange, 2021. Top 10 preffered cotton countries. [table] Available at: <https://textileexchange.org/preferred-fib-

Fig.: 7

p. 5

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Authors own, Table of measurments, 2022

Fig.: 8

p. 6

•

Fashionary, 2020. Textilepedia. Fashionary International Ltd, pp. 56-57, [table].

Fig.: 50

p. 10

•

Authors own, Google maps screenshot of rail route from India to Dhaka, 2022

Fig.: 9

p. 6

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TextileExchange, 2021. The Global Preferred Fibre Market 2020. [illustration] Available at: <https://textileexchange.org/

Fig.: 51

p. 10

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H&M, 2022. UK shop locations. [Screenshot] Available at: https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/customer-service/shopping-at-hm/

Fig.: 52

p. 10

•

Fig.: 53

p. 10

•

er-and-materials-market-report/> [Accessed 10 May 2022].

preferred-fiber-and-materials-market-report/> [Accessed 5 May 2022].

store-locator [Accessed 10 May 2022].

Fig.: 10

p. 6

•

Authors own, Fabrics, 2022

Fig.: 11

p. 6

•

Authors own, Collar detail, 2022

Fig.: 12

p. 6

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Authors own, Seam detail, 2022

Fig.: 13

p. 6

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Authors own, Embroidery detail, 2022

Fig.: 14

p. 6

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Authors own, Interlining detail, 2022

Fig.: 54

p. 10

•

Shipmap.org, 2019. Sea freight routes. [Screenshot] Available at: https://www.shipmap.org [Accessed 10 May 2022].

Fig.: 15

p. 6

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Authors own, Care label, 2022

Fig.: 55

p. 10

•

Goolge Maps. The Knit Concern. [Screenshot] Available at: https://www.google.com/maps/place/Knit+Concern+Group/

Fig.: 16

p. 6

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Authors own, Logo label, 2022

Fig.: 17

p. 6

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Authors own, Hangtag, 2022

Fig.: 18

p. 6

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Authors own, Packaging , 2022

Fig.: 19

p. 7

•

2022].

[Accessed 25 April 2022].

@23.6409669,90.5117482,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x3755b1684d2848e9:0xd4d8ee3f2d411359!8m2!3d23.6409669!

4d90.5139369 [Accessed 10 May 2022]. p. 10

•

Knit Concern, 2019. Dye House. [image] Available at: <http://knitconcern.com/Dyeing.htm> [Accessed 12 May 2022].

Mashiata Group, 2022. Yarn Dyeing. [image] Available at: <http://www.masihata.com/gallery-mega.html#3> [Accessed

Fig.: 57

p. 11

•

Knit Concern, 2019. [Screenshot] Available at: <http://knitconcern.com.> [Accessed 25 April 2022].

10 May 2022].

Fig.: 58

p. 11

•

CleanClothes.org, 2019. Still un(der) paid. [table] Available at: https://labourbehindthelabel.org/report-still-underpaid-how-

Fig.: 59

p. 11

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Fig.: 60

p. 11

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Fig.: 61

p. 11

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Knit Concern, 2019. Training. [image] Available at: http://knitconcern.com/training-center.htm [Accessed 3 May 2022].

p. 7

•

Fashionary, 2020. Textilepedia. Fashionary International Ltd, pp. 200-201, [table].

Fig.: 21

p. 7

•

Pantone, 2022. Kids Polo Shirt Colours. [image] Available at: <https://connect.pantone.com/#/picker?pantone-

the-garment-industry-failed-to-pay-its-workers-during-the-pandemic/ [Accessed 6 May 2022].

Book=pantonePastelsNeonsUncoated> [Accessed 6 May 2022]. p. 7

•

H&M, 2022. Supplier List for Polo Shirt. [Screenshot] Available at: tps://www2.hm.com/en_gb/productpage.0933591004.html

Fig.: 56

Fig.: 20

Fig.: 22

H&M, 2022. Different online markets. [Screenshot] Available at: https://www.hm.com/entrance.ahtml [Accessed 10 May

Knit Concern, 2019. Yarn Dyeing. [image] Available at: <http://knitconcern.com/yarn-dyeing.htm> [Accessed 3 May

H&M, 2022. Supplier List for Polo Shirt. [Screenshot] Available at: https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/productpage.0933591004. html [Accessed 25 April 2022].

2022].

Knit Concern, 2019. Garment Assembly. [image] Available at: <http://knitconcern.com/apparel-sewing.htm> [Accessed 3 May 2022].

Fig.: 23

p. 7

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Authors own, Fabric detail, 2022

Fig.: 24

p. 7

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Authors own, All Cut Knit Illustations, 2022

Fig.: 62

p. 11

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Knit Concern, 2019. Knitting. [image] Available at: http://knitconcern.com/Knitting.htm [Accessed 3 May 2022].

Fig.: 25

p. 7

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Knit Concern, 2019. Knitting. [image] Available at: <http://knitconcern.com/Knitting.htm [Accessed 3 May 2022].

Fig.: 63

p. 11

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Authors own. Table of UK, Swedisch and Bangladesh national holidays, 2022

Fig.: 26

p. 8

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Authors own, CAD B/W, 2022

Fig.: 64

p. 11

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Authors own. Critical Path, 2022

Fig.: 27

p. 8

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Eberle, 2014. Clothing technology. Europa Lehrmittel, pp. 147, [image].

Fig.: 65

p. 13

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Authors own. Marlow´s hierarchy of needs illustation, 2022. Reference at: https://www.thoughtco.com/maslows-hierar-

Fig.: 28

p. 8

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Authors own, Ply Illustations, 2022

Fig.: 29

p. 8

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Authors own, Fabric Presentation Illustations, 2022

Fig.: 66

p. 13

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Authors own, Remanufacturing Illustation, 2022. Reference at: Circular Fashion by Blum, p.92, 2021.

Fig.: 30

p. 8

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Authors own, Spreading Illustations, 2022

Fig.: 67

p. 13

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Authors own, Basic clothing functions Illustation, 2022. Reference at: Clothing Technology by Eberle, p.48, 2014.

Fig.: 31

p. 8

•

Eberle, 2014. Clothing technology. Europa Lehrmittel, pp. 149, [image].

Fig.: 68

p. 13

•

TextileExchange, 2021. Prefered Fibres and Material Market Overview. [illustration] Available at: <https://textileexchange.

Fig.: 32

p. 8

•

Knit Concern, 2019. Cutting. [image] Available at: http://knitconcern.com/cutting.htm [Accessed 3 May 2022].

Fig.: 33

p. 8

•

Knit Concern, 2019. Spreading. [image] Available at: http://knitconcern.com/cutting.htm[Accessed 3 May 2022].

Fig.: 69

p. 13

•

Fig.: 34

p. 8

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n.d. stitch types & sewing thread requirement. Amann Group, pp.5-9, [image].

Fig.: 35

p. 8

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Eberle, 2014. Clothing technology. Europa Lehrmittel, pp. 159, [image].

Fig.: 70

p. 13

•

Fig.: 36

p. 8

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Fashionary, 2017. Fashionpedia. Fashionary International Ltd, pp. 282, [table].

Fig.: 37

p. 9

•

Knit Concern, 2019. Embroidery. [image] Available at: < http://knitconcern.com/embroidery.htm > [Accessed 11 May

Fig.: 71

p. 14

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Knit Concern, 2019. Embroidery preperation. [image] Available at: <http://knitconcern.com/embroidery.htm> [Ac-

Fig.: 72

p. 14

•

Authors own, Costing Table, 2022. Reference at: Costing Lecure by Love at Nottingham Trent University, 2022.

cessed 11 May 2022].

chy-of-needs-4582571 [Accessed 13 May 2022].

org/preferred-fiber-and-materials-market-report/> [Accessed 7 May 2022].

als-market-report/> [Accessed 7 May 2022].

p. 9

•

TextileExchange, 2021. Recycled Polyester. [illustration] Available at: <https://textileexchange.org/preferred-fiber-and-materials-market-report/> [Accessed 7 May 2022].

2022].

Fig.: 38

TextileExchange, 2021. Recycled Cotton. [illustration] Available at: <https://textileexchange.org/preferred-fiber-and-materi-

H&M, 2022. Polo Shirt. [Screenshot] Available at: https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/productpage.0718081030.html [Accessed 14 May 2022].

Fig.: 73

p. 14

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Authors own, Thread usage, 2022. Reference at: https://www.amann.com/company/download-center/, 2022.

Fig.: 39

p. 9

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Authors own, Embroidery inside, 2022

Fig.: 74

p. 14

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Authors own, TBL, 2022. Reference at: https://online.hbs.edu/blog/post/what-is-the-triple-bottom-line, 2022.

Fig.: 40

p. 9

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Authors own, Embroidery close up, 2022

Fig.: 75

p. 14

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CleanClothes.org, 2019. [image] Available at: https://cleanclothes.org/poverty-wages [Accessed 6 May 2022]

Fig.: 41

p. 9

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Pantone, 2022. Kids Polo Shirt Colours. [image] Available at: <https://connect.pantone.com/#/picker?pantone-

Fig.: 76

p. 14

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Statista, 2020. [table] Available at: https://www.statista.com/statistics/987707/bangladesh-export-value-garments/ [Ac-

Fig.: 77

p. 14

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Book=pantonePastelsNeonsUncoated> [Accessed 6 May 2022].

Fig.: 42

p. 9

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Authors own, CAD of embroidery, 2022

Fig.: 43

p. 9

•

Knit Concern, 2019. Quality Control. [image] Available at: http://knitconcern.com/quality-assurance.htm [Accessed 11

cessed 15 May 2022] Smart Freight Centre, 2022. [image] Available at: https://www.smartfreightcentre.org/en/smart-freight-solutions/ [Accessed 15 May 2022]

May 2022].

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

SECTION 1 Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

An in-depth analysis of this H&M boys polo shirt, starting with the fibre and covering all aspects and information needed to replicate: » » » » » » » » » » » » » » » » » » » » » »

Fig.: 1

garment description colourways after care inside details measurements fibre composition fabrication trims other components spinning dyeing knitting spreading & cutting stitches seams sewing machines embroidery quality assurance packaging global supply chain manufacturer critical path

04

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985 Garment reference number

RRP

Season/ Collection

0933591004

7.99

Spring Summer 2022

Department

Category

Style

Boys 2-8Y

T-Shirt & Shirts

Cotton piqué polo shirt Composition

Fig.: 5

60% Cotton 40% Polyester Available Sizing

GARMENT DESCRIPTION

“Polo shirt in cotton piqué with a ribbed collar and button placket. Small, embroidered detail on the chest, short sleeves with narrow trims, and short slits in the sides of the hem. Slightly longer at the back.” (H&M Product Description 2022) » » » » » » »

standard fitted classic kids’ polo shirt made from a weft knitted piqué and rib knitted details like collar and sleeve hem short, attached button placket with two 4-hole plastic buttons and 2 machine square buttonholes ribbed collar, no collar stand, ribbon attached woven brand and size label in the back neck, care label inside seam the straight hem is shorter in the front with short side slits on both sides with 90° corners small, embroidered palm tree motive on the right breast area Fig.: 2

COLOURWAY

AVAILABLE CLOURWAYS:

» Light orange/ Striped » Dark blue/ Block-coloured » Blue/ Striped The fabrication stays the same, but all options will be knitted differently due to the yarn dyed stripe effects.

The placement of the colour blocks on the image of the H&M website are different from my sample shirt, suggesting that the print pattern is placed from the hem and ends on different stripes depending on size.

Fig.: 3

» »

AFTER CARE

Fig.: 4

(Textile Labelling: ISO 3758; ASTM D5489)

(H&M, 2022)

INSIDE DETAILS

GARMENT SPECIFICATION

11/2 - 2Y 2-4Y 4-6Y 6-8Y

Machine washing at max. 40°C program for coloureds Best for coloured garments in cotton/polyester blends

» Do not bleach » Best for sensitive, coloured garments » Use a bleach-free detergent » Do not tumble dry » Garments might deform or shrink in a tumble dryer » Iron at medium heat » Steam with care and do not stretch garment » Two dots indicate a maximum temperature of 150°C » Iron embroidery under a cloth » Do not dry-clean » Indicating recommendations for professional cleaning

RRP

Season/ Collection

Department

Category

Style

0933591004

£ 7.99

Spring Summer 2022

Boys 2-8Y

T-Shirt & Shirts

Cotton piqué polo shirt

05

Garment reference number

Composition 60% Cotton 40% Polyester

Fig.: 6

Available Sizing 1 - 2Y 2-4Y 4-6Y 6-8Y 1/2

1

TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS REF.

MEASUREMENT for Size 4-6Y in cm

TOLERANCE +/- in mm

1 2

Chest - 2cm below armhole, measured straight across, edge to edge Waist - 11cm below armhole, measured straight across, edge to edge

33cm 33cm

0mm 2mm

3 4 5 6 7 8

Front length - measurement taken from HPS/SNP straight down to the front hem Centre back length - from the centre back neck, measured straight down to the back hem Hem - measured straight along bottom edge, side seam to side seam Shoulder seam - from HPS/SNP measured along the seam to the outer shoulder edge Cross shoulder seam - from outer shoulder edge to outer shoulder edge Sleeve over arm - from shoulder outer edge, measured along the fold to the sleeve opening Armhole curved front - measured from outer shoulder edge along the curve of the front panel to the side seamcurved back - measured from outer shoulder edge along the curve of the back panel to the Armhole side seam Bicep - 2cm below armhole, measured straight across edge to edge, parallel to the sleeve opening Sleeve opening unstretched - measured along sleeve opening, edge to edge Sleeve opening stretched - measured along sleeve opening, edge to edge, while stretching the rib

45cm 44cm 33cm 8.5cm 30cm 14cm

0mm 1mm 2mm 1mm 2mm 0mm

16.3cm

2mm

18.5cm

2mm

12cm 10.8cm 13.5cm

2mm 2mm 4mm

2cm 2cm 5cm

0mm 0mm 1mm

9 10

GARMENT SPECIFICATION

DESCRIPTION

(Mountain, 2021)

Fig.: 7

11 12 13 14 15 16

Sleeve rib depth - measured from the seam of the sleeve rib to the edge of opening Back neck drop - from horizontal line of HPS/SNP points to the top edge of back neck seam Front neck drop - from back neck seam to top edge to front neck

17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Collar and placket measurements: Collar leaf edge Collar centre back depth Collar neck circumference Collar point Collar spread Placket width Placket length - measured from front neck drop to edge of placked end Placked end to first buttonhole Distance from front neck point to first buttonhole Distance between buttonholes Height of lower buttonhole, measured up from placket end Height of neck hole trim Height of placket stitching Button size Buttonhole length

33cm 5.5cm 35.5cm 5cm 8cm 2.5cm 11.5cm 4.5cm 0.8cm 3cm 1.5cm 1cm 1.5cm 1.1cm 1.8cm

3mm 1mm 2mm 0mm 1mm 1mm 1mm 0mm 0mm 1mm 1mm 0mm 1mm 0mm 0mm

32 33 34 35 36

Slit measurements: Slit length - measured from front hem to opening Hem height Height of slit stitching Height of care label from back hem from slit opening point Trim width

3.2cm 1.5cm 2cm 5cm 1cm

2mm 1mm 1mm 2mm 0mm

37 38 39 40

Embroidery measurements: Height of the embroidery from HPS/SNP on right front panel Height of embroidery Width of embroidery Placement of embroidery from placket edge on right front panel

12cm 2cm 1.3cm 5.2cm

2mm 0mm 0mm 2mm

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

Season/ Collection

Department

Category

Style

£ 7.99

Spring Summer 2022

Boys 2-8Y

T-Shirt & Shirts

Cotton piqué polo shirt

“Weft knitted fabric in cotton or blends, with small relief diamond pattern. Based on single jersey with regular tuck stitches. Often used for polo shirts” (Eberle, 2008)

Size

Weft knitted fabrics can be made from a single yarn, which is fed crosswise to the length of the fabric to interlock the loops to create an either circular or flat weft knitted fabric.

Properties

COTTON » soft and durable fibre » breathable, hypoallergenic and comfortable » natural properties make it suitable for summer kids wear » high water consumptions » most chemical dependent crop POLYESTER » polyester fibres balance the rather unfortunate characteristic » production is not affected by weather or climate » made from fossil resources » “harmful process and chemicals to the environment, wildlife and both the health of factory workers and people.”

(Fashion Business Manual, p. 55, 2019)

COTTON

POLYESTER

maintenance

****

**

abraision resistance

****

*****

strenght

****

*****

**

*****

****

*

***

*

*

*****

***

*****

*****

**

*****

*

**

*****

*****

***

*****

*

elasticity absorbation shrinkage drying dye-absorptance next-to-skin anti-static finess handle biodegradable

Fig.: 13 Fig.: 14

60% cotton & 40% polyester

Fig.: 10

1x1 RIB “Alternating wales knitted on both front and back, with usually close up ribs, resulting in a double-faced fabric which has the same appearance on both surfaces. It is thicker and more elastic crosswise than lengthwise, and the edges do not curl. ” (Fashionpedia, 2017), making it perfect for the collar and the sleeve.

TRIMS

» woven with dot coating with PA or PES » width: 150cm & weight 40g/m2 » in the colour white » 0.28 USD/m » MOQ: 5000m

Possible manufacuterer: ZHEJIANG CHANGXING CHANGRUI INTERLINING MANUFACTURE CO.,LTD, China

CARE LABEL - satin woven printed labels - in the colour white - 0.03 USD/piece - moq: 1000 pieces

Possible manufacuterer: BORI GARMENT ACCESSORIES CO.,LTD., Bangladesh

LOGO & SIZE LABEL

(Eberle, 2014)

2 BUTTONS

Fig.: 9

FUSABLE INTERLINING FOR EMBROIDERY

Fig.: 15

Fig.: 8

» Ø11mm white synthetic buttons with 4 holes » engraved with “ORIGINAL CASUAL WEAR - EST.1947” + cheapest + easiest to care + the 4 holes enable extra strength at the attachment, + a variety of shapes, sizes and colour + all exactly the same in large quantities 70 CM OF TRIMMING » 1,5cm wide, folded and edged dark blue tape » made from same fabric as garment (knitted piqué) » attached on neckline and side slits Covering open fabric edges on places with sensitive skin and applied force for more comfort and strength.

Nm 80 - 110 Tex no. 45 deliverey on 5000m cones in the colour navy

Possible manufacuterer: AMANN Bangladesh Product: Serafil - POLYESTER CONTINUOUS FILAMENT

Fig.: 16

COMPOSITION

» » » »

» » » » »

woven cotton labels printed logo in the colour beige/ navy size: 1-100mm 1 USD/dozen

Possible manufacuterer: BABLU GARMENTS & TAPELOOM IND., Bangladesh HANGTAG » » » »

printed paper labels in the colour white 0.01 USD/piece MOQ: 1000 pieces

Possible manufacuterer: GLOBE LABELS, India

PACKAGING Fig.: 18

GARMENT SPECIFICATION MATERIALS

FIBRE COMPOSITION

EMBROIDERY THREAD

13 wales & 21 courses in 1cm (tight stitch tensions) gauge number of about 30 - 40 (fine knit) weights about 180g/m2 priced at about 8,50 USD/kg (yarn dyed/stiped)

+ breathable/ airy fabric + excellent ventilation and comfort during physical activity + less prone to wrinkle + only minimal amount of stretch, holds shape + good for embroidery (Silverbobbin, n.d.)

Nm 90 - 120 for needle numbers 10-14 deliverey on 5000m cones in the colours: white/ petrol/ navy

Possible manufacuterer: AMANN Bangladesh Product: saba - POLYESTER/POLYESTER CORE

OTHER COMPONENTS

» » » »

» » » »

Fig.: 12

60% Cotton 40% Polyester

4-6Y

(Kininmonth, 2021)

SEWING THREAD

KNITTED SINGLE PIQUÉ

Composition Fig.: 2

FABRICATION

Fig.: 17

RRP

0933591004

(Fibre2Fashion.com, 2022)

06

Garment reference number

(TextileExchange, 2021)

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

- printed recycled plastic bag - transparent - 0.20USD/piece - moq 50000 pieces

Possible manufacuterer: FARIHA ACCESSORIES & TRADING INTERNATIONAL LIMITED, Bangladesh Fig.: 11

07

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

Garment reference number

RRP

Season/ Collection

Department

Category

Style

0933591004

£ 7.99

Spring Summer 2022

Boys 2-8Y

T-Shirt & Shirts

Cotton piqué polo shirt

DYEING YARN DYEING

Fig.: 2

PACKAGING DYEING (Textilepedia, 2020)

» after fibres are spun into yarn & before they get knitted » used for designs with multicoloured knitting patterns » good colour fastness in wearing and washing » more expensive than fabric-dyed (process takes longer) » high MOQ » can not respond to rapid fashion changes (Hallett & Johnston, 2014)

» » » »

dyeing by putting yarn cones into pressured dye tank medium to large batches cheapest and fastest method for yarn dyeing good dye penetrating

TYPE OF DYE “Commercially polyester/cotton blended fabrics are dyed by two-bath or one-bath two-step dyeing method employing suitable dyes and chemicals for each fiber. Two bath dyeing methods are relatively long and complicated. The one-bath two-step dyeing procedure is shorter as compared to two-bath method, but the drawbacks are lower dyeability and poor reproducibility.”

(Muralidharan & Laya, 2011)

GARMENT SPECIFICATION PRODUCTION

COTTON POLYESTER

Dyeing by conventional reactive dyes under alkaline conditions at 80°C Dyeing using disperse dyes at acidic conditions at over 120°C

New researches and approaches are “carried out to dye cotton/polyester blends in one-bath using conventional disperse dyes and newly developed reactive dyes which can dye at acidic or neutral conditions around 100-130°C.” (Muralidharan & Laya, 2011)

YARN SPINNING

COLOUR FASTNESS Fig.: 19

Reactive Disperse

“Fibre blending is used to improve perfomance, by compensating a weakness in the properties of a given fibre type, or to achieve special optical effects. Blending may also influence processing efficiency, yarn finess and cost.” (Eberle, 2004)

COLOURS White

(Textilepedia, 2020)

Fig.: 20

Washing

Crocking

Light

Prespiration

Dry Cleaning

 

òòòò òòòò

ÒÒÒÒ ÒÒÒÒ

|||| ||||



(Pantone, 2022)

Fig.: 21

Yellow



Navy

Petrol

Aqua

Neon Orange

FIBRE PREPERATION COTTON After harvesting the cotton seeds need to be dried, ginned and sorted by stable lengths.

(Eberle, 2014) Spinnable fibres with: » min stable length of 16mm » weight per unit 1-4 dtex

POLYESTER Spinned with melt-spinning process from a condensation polymer granulate by extruding through tiny holes of spineret into an airstream, which cools it.

The substance then gets drawn on heated rollers to be stretched, to align the molecules for stability. Getting compressed afterwards, to fold and crimp the filament.

Several filaments will be loosely drawn together to a tow, to be cutted into 3.2 -3.8 cm lenghts and ready to be blended with the cotton fibres.

(Hallett & Johnston, 2014)

SPINNING

(Textilepedia, 2020)

Fibres get blended during the stable yarn production to create already blended spun yarns, made by mechanical assembly and twisting them together into continuous length of interlocked fibres.

RING SPINNING » » » »

KNITTING

Fig.: 22

(Textilepedia, 2020)

TYPES OF KNIT » » » »

machine knitted weft knitted gauge: 25-40 tight slack tension

CUTTING OF KNITTED FABRIC

KNITTING MACHINE

ALL CUT

CIRCULAR BED

» » » » »

strong/ fine/ smooth/ regular yarn suitable for all staple fibres large range of yarn count slow production rate - several processes and steps required

all garment pieces are cut from fabric completly sewn together for high production rates low costs high fabric waste

» » » »

creates tube-shaped pieces for large and fast productions used for finer knitwear (gauge <20) supports only all cut knit fabrics

YARNS » » » »

processing: carded (low-cost production, fussy yarn for lightweight fabrics) yarn count: high direction: Z-twist level: low twist

Fig.: 23

Fig.: 24

Fig.: 25

08

RRP

Season/ Collection

Department

Category

Style

0933591004

£ 7.99

Spring Summer 2022

Boys 2-8Y

T-Shirt & Shirts

Cotton piqué polo shirt

SEWING MACHINERY

(Eberle, 2014)

300 - Class Stitches L: 2mm Stitches per cm: 5

301 - Lockstitch

Fig.: 26

Fig.: 35

Garment reference number

FLAT BED LOCKSTITCH MACHINE

304 - Lockstitch (zig-zag) for button holes

The stripe pattern which is perfectly matching on side seams and on the yellow stripe with the sleeve requieres: precision for the fabric spreading process cutting in two stages (1st rough cut & precise 2nd cut) acknowledgement of the stripes in the layplanning several checks for horizontal continuity

LAYPLAN MIXED MULTI-SIZE Fig.: 27

Fig.: 2

TYPES OF LAY

No distinct size section, pieces from two or more sizes are intermingeled.

L: 12mm Stitches per cm: 35

FLAT SEAM MACHINE

304 - Lockstitch (zig-zag) for button attachment

4-hole: 20 stitches Stitches per cm: 30

406 - 2-needle cover chainstitch (without cover thread)

Large number of fabric layers stacked evenly on top of the others.

for straight buttonholes in different shapes: machine square machine round radial straight eyelet taper

Width: 5mm Stitches per cm: 4

BUTTON SEWING MACHINE for button stitching: parallel stitching parallel & crosscover parallel & S-/ Z-crossover X-stitching X-stitching & crossover

500 - Class Stitches 514 - 4-thread overlock stitch

Fig.: 28

Fig.: 31

FABRIC PRESENTATION

SPREADING & METHOD

The knitted piqué fabric will be delivered in a tubular form, then cutted open to use the full open width for easier pattern matching.

“The manufacturers cutting room is equipted with: » 15 automatic spreading maschines » 7 automatic cutters » 3 labeller machines“ (Knit Concern, 2019)

Fig.: 29

FORM OF SPREADING One-way spreading, so each layer of fabric is laid the same way up with the grain and stripes runing the same direction.

The fabric has to be cut after laying each ply.

Fig.: 33

Fig.: 30

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

for flat seams: 406/ 407 602/ 605/ 607

BUTTONHOLE MACHINE

400 - Class Stitches

+ best material utilisation + lowest cost + good for large amounts in even size quantities

MULTIPLE-PLY

OVEREDGE CHAIN STITCH MACHINE for overlock seams: 501 502/ 503 504/ 505 512/ 514

Fig.: 34

Due to the stripe pattern and the leftright symmetry the pattern pieces can be placed parallel to the grain line, but either way.

304 - Lockstitch (zig-zag) for bar tacks

(AMANN, n.d.)

PATTERN MATCHING

STITCHES

LAYING UP ORIENTATION

» » » »

H: 15mm & W: 4mm Stitches per cm: 30

(Eberle, 2014)

Fig.: 32

GARMENT SPECIFICATION PRODUCTION

SPREADING & CUTTING

for lockstitch seams: 301

Width: 6mm Stitches per cm: 3

SEAM CLASSES

BAR TACKER

for bar tacks: spot tacks bar tacks

(Fashionpedia, 2017) Fig.: 36

Seam Drawing Seam Code

SSa(1.01.01)

EFa(6.02.01)

EFh

SSat(5.06.11)

SSag(4.10.02)

BSj(3.05.06)

Name

Plain seam

Hem on knits

Looped Stripe

Setting Stripe

Seaming

Placket bound

Stitch

514

406

406

301

301

301

ISO

1.01

6.02

8.02

7.25

7.32

3.05

Application

Side seam, shoulder seam, armhole seam & sleeve attachment

Hem

Hem slit stripe

Stripe attachment at hem slit

Tap the neckline of knit

Placket attachement

Garment reference number

RRP

Season/ Collection

0933591004

£ 7.99

Spring Summer 2022

Department

Category

Style

Composition

Sizing

Boys 2-8Y

T-Shirt & Shirts

Cotton piqué polo shirt

60% Cotton & 40% Polyester

4-6Y

GARMENT SPECIFICATION Fig.: 37

TYPES OF EMBROIDERY

MANUFACTURING DETAILS 09 QUALITY ASSURANCE TYPES OF INSPECTION

MACHINE EMBROIDERED

Fig.: 44

IN-LINE & FINAL TABLE INSPECTION

» surface decoration made by using threads and varios types of stitches with automated machines. » “19 multi-head automatic embroidery machines and with the facilitiy of taping, cording, chenille, boring & all over & sequinces ...producing over 75 million stitches of embelishment a day” (The Knit Concern, 2019)

(Fashionary , 2019) AREAS TO CHECK DURING QUALITY CONTROL sizing - measurements, tolerances

» some quality tests during, but majority after the production process to check for any defects.

colour - dye spots, colour fastness fabric - fabric weight, treas, holes

seams & stitching - stitch per cm, open seams, correct thread selection, loose thread ends, skipped stitches

+ higher quality standards + easier to fix mistakes + sorting out all faulty products

+ exactly the same on all shirts + fast and cheap process + low cost decoration + good choice for material (knitted piqué fabric)

appearance - visible marks, unfinished edges, stains

AQL (ACCEPTED QUALITY LEVEL)

fitting - same as approved sample

smell - unpleasent odors from dyes or other chemicals

Not every garment will be absolutly perfect in mass production, so the AQL determines the maximum percentage of defect items within a batch that will still be acceptable.

THREAD Serafil - Polyester continuous filament ,by AMANN Nm 80 - 110, 5000m

safety - metal detectors for pins, needles and staples

FINAL PRODUCT LAB TEST

EMBROIDERY

(Udale, 2014)

» important especially for kidswear, due to strict regulations for the childrens safety » tested for fibre properties, after care durabiliy and chemicals.

Fig.: 41

Fig.: 39

packaging & labelling - matching size & care labels, missing labels, incorrect label information

Fig.: 38

SIZE

PLACEMENT

FINAL RESULT

Fig.: 43

Ration 1:3 (H:20mm; W:13mm)

PACKAGING

(Fashionary , 2019)

“To avoid damaging products before they reach a store, properly packing your collection is vital. Determining your clothings final retail display is one of the most important factors when deciding how to pack products for shipping.”

(Fashion Business Manual,p. 78, 2019) Fig.: 45

FLAT PACK

Fig.: 42

» » » »

Folded garments in individual poly bags easy method using the least space all labels and barcodes attached packed in cartons

SHIPPING » Depending on the route the products will take, restrictions and safety standards as well as weight & size for a carton should be considered.

Fig.: 40

Fig.: 26

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

Fig.: 47 Fig.: 46

GARMENT SPECIFICATION

SOURCING

GLOBAL SUPPLY CHAIN

10

Fig.: 48

COTTON PRODUCTION SHIPMENT LEADTIME (TextileExchange, 2021)

1. Cotton fibre harvested

(Google Maps, 2022)

Fig.: 50

INDIA 2. Polyester fibre manufacutred INDIA 3. TRANSPORTATION BY ROAD TO YARN FACTORY 4. Blending of fibres & spinning INDIA 5. TRANSPORTATION BY TRAIN TO GARMENT FACTORY

H&M LOCATIONS Fig.: 51

7. Knitting

(H&M, 2022)

Fig.: 52

BANGLADESH 8. Garment Production BANGLADESH 9. Embroidery BANGLADESH 10. Finishing

11. Inspection & packaging BANGLADESH

SEA FREIGHT Fig.: 54

(Shipmap.org, 2022)

12. TRANSPORTATION BY SHIP TO WAREHOUSE

Fig.: 53

BANGLADESH

(H&M, 2022)

BANGLADESH

PRODUCT INFO

6. Yarn dyeing

Fig.: 49

KNIT CONCERN LTD. Fig.: 55

Fig.: 56

13. Allocation UNITED KINGDOM

j

14. TRANSPORTATION BY ROAD TO STORES/ CUSTOMER

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

(Google, 2022)

SOURCING Fig.: 59

MANUFACTURER

GARMENT SPECIFICATION

CRITICAL PATH NO.

THE KNIT CONCERN GROUP Fig.: 60

http://knitconcern.com Location Address: 62 Water Works Road, Godnail, Narayangong – 1400, Bangladesh “Today, the company is an integrated Textile & Apparel manufacturing group with over 8500 staffs and annual exports of over US$ 70 million. They have three factories - Knit Concern, KC Apparels and KC Print which are catering well-known brands like H&M, Zara, Okaidi, Jacadi etc.”

(Fong’s Engeneering, 2013)

Fig.: 61

(Knit Concern, 2019)

Fig.: 57

11

Fig.: 64

EVENT

ACTION DATE

LEAD TIME

STAGE PO

1

Purchase Order raised

02.11.21

5 days

2

Lap dip revison, comments

08.11.21

3 days

3

Lap dip approval

11.11.21

4 days

4

Trim approval

15.11.21

2 days

5

1st Style and fit comments made

17.11.21

2 days

6

1st sample revison

19.11.21

5 days

7

2nd sample corrections/ comments

24.11.21

2 days

8

2nd fit correction

3.12.21

5 days

10

Final revision/ production of sample production

09.12.21

7 days

11

Final production sample approval

16.12.21

2 days

12

Spinning start date

18.12.21

5 days

13

Spinning end date

22.12.21

1 days

14

Yarn delievery to fabric production factory

23.12.21

3 days

15

Dyeing start date

27.12.21

4 days

16

Dyeing end date

31.01.22

1 day

17

Knitting start date

02.01.22

7 days

19

Knitting end date

09.01.22

1 day

20

Bulk fabric approved

10.01.22

1 days

21

Materials and trims delivered to garment factory

11.01.22

1 day

BENEFITS

22

Spreading/ fabric cut day, bulk production start

12.01.22

3 days

»

23

Bulk cutting end

15.01.22

1 day

24

Sewing start

16.01.22

11 days

25

Sewing end

27.01.22

1 day

26

Embroidery start date

28.01.22

3 days

27

Embroidery end date

31.01.22

1 day

29

Finish - inspection and pressing start date

01.02.22

3 days

30

Finish - inspection and pressing end date

04.02.22

1 day

31

Packaging

05.02.22

2 days

32

Shipment start date

07.02.22

20 days

33

Shipment finish date / arrival at warehouse

28.02.22

2 days

34

Allocation to stores/ distribution centres

02.03.22

2 days

35

Launch day

07.03.22

» »

Fig.: 58

Fig.: 62

»

Philosophy focusing “on dedication to quality, commitment to excellence, adoption of state-of-the-art technology, and keen focus on customers’ satisfaction” (Knit Concern, 2019) Providing services from dyeing, to knitting, cutting, sewing and embroidery with productions of “150,000 pieces of knit apparel and 25,000 pieces of lingerie of latest quality and design every day.” (Textile Today, 2018) Location near a river and central in Asia makes transportation easy Advantage of the low cost of labor in Bangladesh compared to competitors in China, India, Cambodia, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, ...

(CleanClothes, 2021)

HOLIDAYS Day of the year 06.11.21 16.12.21 24.12.21 25.12.21 26.12.21 27.12.21 28.12.21 31.12.21 01.01.22 03.01.22 06.01.22 21.02.22

Fig.: 63

in the UK

Victory Day

Remembrance Sunday

in Sweden All Saints' Day Christmas Eve Christmas Day 2nd Day of Christmas

Christmas Day

New Years Eve

Christmas Day (in lieu) Boxing Day (in lieu) New Year's Day New Year's Day (in lieu)

Sampling

Yarn Transportation Dyeing

Fabric

Production

Allocation

Launch

CONSIDERATIONS

national holidays

in Bangladesh

Lap dip

New Year's Eve New Year's Day

» » » »

Information given on the care label - “Made in Bangladesh” H&M manufacturing informations on the manufacuterer for this exact garment as part of the new transparency policy - “Knit Concern LTD” Normal working hours of Bangladesh people, acknowleding the Bangladesh Labour Law 2006 (amended 2013) - “No adult worker shall ordinarily be required or allowed to work in an establishment for more than eight hours in any day” and “every ... industrial establishment shall remain entirely closed for at least one and a half day in each week.”

Offical bank holidays in Bangladesh, UK and Sweden (Fig.: 63) - Some dates might not correspond with the entiteld lead time, while the overall lead time might appear longer than normal, but this is due to the many holidays during December. (Jackson, 2022)

Epiphany

Language Martyrs' Day

Resource: Officeholidays.com, 2022

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

Fig.: 1

This section of the report connects the given information of the garment with the end use, advantages and disadvantages for the wearer, commercial acumen, like how decision on the garment can influence the costing and what to expect from the choice of location of the production. All in context to current industry standards, innovations and sustainability.

SECTION 2 Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

INFLUENCE OF FIBRE AND FABRIC

Just like Maslow stated (1943) in his original “hierarchy of needs”, our physiological needs are the biological requirements for human survival and together with air, food, drink, shelter, warmth, sex and sleep, clothing is one of them. (McLeod, PhD, 2022) But garments also have their own general requirements to fulfil to work as a wearable clothing: SUITABILITY » Every garment must fulfil the basic functions of protection, decoration and identification, relating them back to the different interactions between a body and clothing in different environments (Fig.: 67, Eberle, 2014). » Concluding this the H&M boys polo shirt will have to work on a boys body in a warm and active summer environment.

APPEARANCE » “The garments should fit properly, (not causing hazards for the wearer) and present an appearance appropriate to the wishes of the wearer.” (Eberle, p.48, 2014) » The garments fit and sizes will be right for 4-6year old boys, without the sleeves being to long, the collar being to high or similar things. The design itself is a colourful variation of a standard polo shirt and so more likely enjoyed being worn.

AFTERCARE » Maintaining the “shape and function through laundering and cleaning” (Eberle, p. 48, 2014) by following the given instructions on the care label. » Following general washing rules like sorting garments according to washing instructions and colouration, as well as the dosage and descriptions of usage for detergents and washing machines, all garments have been tested to make them last as long and clean as possible. » A lot of different factors play a role when choosing the most effective care instructions. From fibres to colouration, construction, details and finishes, all these things will react different to cleaning processes. » White cotton can be boil washed, but the polyester can’t so a maximum wash of 40°C is appropriate, while the specific cotton/ polyester blend colouration forbids the use of bleach and will not work with the chemicals of dry cleaning processes. (Eberle, 2014) All these things make the H&M boys polo shirt an ideal choice for an active young child. Research shows that cotton and polyester are the most popular fibres in the industry and though prices for raw material currently reach their highest in a decade (Hall, 2021), “they undoubtedly have great properties, which is why they have conquered the industry.” (Lüthi, 2021) Another factor that should always be included in every decision on fibre and fabric nowadays is sustainability, in particular “making it circular”/ easy to reuse. Do the properties of a cotton/Polyester mix compensate the difficult chemical processes to separate them again for remanufacturing? (Blum, 2021) H&M does a good job with starting to think more sustainable, but it should start in every decision they make.

ESTEEM

respect, self-esteem, status, recognition, strength, freedom

LOVE AND BELONGING friendship, intimacy, family, sence of connection

SAFETY NEEDS

personal securtiy, employment, resources, health, property

PHYSIOLOGICAL NEEDS air, water, food, shelter, sleep, clothing, reproduction

👪 👕⛈

STABILITY » Just as Eberle (p.48, 2014) identifies: “Clothing should maintain its intended form and be sufficiently durable.” » Garments that changes or completely looses the original shape can not maintain the original intentional, appearance and comfort levels. » The polo shirt is made from a CO/PES blend and both these fibres are know for their high durability. In combination they have a high resistance to abrasion, shrinkage, colour fastness, perspiration, as well as dry and wet tearing and are easy to maintain. By following the intended aftercare the shirt will last a long time even with a lot of stress and dirt. (Fashionary, 2017) » As for garment construction, H&M made sure that things that easily break or tear are strong, for example the side silt. It has a two layered trimming to attach around the whole slit, stitched on once around and fixated with a unusual large bar tack.

COMFORT » The garment should remain a comfortable next-to-skin contact in the intended environment. In order to be “comfortable” clothing must interact with “the body and its surrounding microclimate through insulation, ventilation, moisture absorption and transport.” (Eberle, p. 48, 2014) » A garment suitable for summer and hot European weather needs a good airflow, cooling the body. The specific knitting technique for a piqué fabrics creates the perfect mix between protecting the skin from UV radiation as well as enough spacing between the yarns to let air circulate. (Silver Bobbin, n.d.) » The piqué is also an ideal choice for moderate sports and motions, giving the garment a little stretch without the use of elastane. » The moisture will be absorbted a bit but also transported out before the shirt gets the uncomfortable “wet cling” effect. » All labels and seams are soft without any unpleasant scratching, prickling or clinging. (Eberle, 2014) » All tags and seams are soft without any unpleasant scratching, prickling or clinging.

(Blum, 2021)

SELF-ACTUALISATION

desire to become the most that one can be

:

“Remanufacture: to put (a manufactured material or product) through a process of manufacture again; to manufacture from recycled material or parts.”

Oxford Dictionary

REMANUFACTURING

A DESCRIPTION OF YOUR GARMENT’S FIBRE(S) AND FABRIC; THEIR PROPERTIES AND HOW THESE RELATE TO ITS END USE.

(Marslow, 1943)

FIBRE & FABRIC ANALYSIS

Fig.: 65

MASLOW`S HIERARCHY OF NEEDS

13

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

🚚 🔎 ✂ 🧵 👕 📋

♻

Collection: in H&M Stores/ Deadstock Identification & Inspection: what is the problem?

Disassembly: taking the garment apart Reconditioning & Replacement: fixing or replacing the broken parts Reassembly: putting the garments back together Quality assurance & testing: does it still meet the requirments?

Less waste and more use of resources after an enlongated product life cycle!

Fig.: 66

HUMAN

(TextileExchange, 2021)

Fig.: 67

ENVIRONMENT

GARMENT

Fig.: 68

BASIC FUNCTIONS PROTECTION • • •

(Eberle, 2014)

against the weather conditions: heat, cold, wind, rain against injury: at work, in transport, at sports for modesty

DECORATION • • •

for adornment for expression for individuality

IDENTIFICATION • •

for status for belonging to a social or geographical group

Fig.: 69

Fig.: 70

(Clean Clothes, 2022) Fig.: 58

Material

Supplier

Single Usage Units

Price

Per

Cost

Fabrics Pique Rib Interlining

Knit Group Toray Zhejang

0.4 metre 0.1 metre 0.05 metre

£ £ £

1.56 0.28 0.65

1 1 1

£ £ £

0.62 0.03 0.03

Trims Buttons Trimming Care label Logo label Size Label Thread

Burman Knit Group Bori Bablu Bablu Amann

2 0.01 1 1 1 84.3

piece metre piece piece piece metre

£ £ £ £ £ £

10.00 1.56 0.02 0.80 0.80 15.00

1000 1 1 12 12 10,000

£ £ £ £ £ £

0.02 0.02 0.02 0.07 0.07 0.13

Packaging Hangtag Polybag Box Barcode

Globe Labels Fariha Fariha Fariha

1 1 1 1

piece piece piece piece

£ £ £ £

0.01 0.20 1.00 0.50

1 1 0.05 0.05

£ £ £ £

0.01 0.20 0.05 0.03

£

1.28

TOTAL MATERIALS PER GARMENT LABOUR Operation Yarn Dyeing Knitting Lay & Cut Sew & Make Finish & Pack

4 0.5 0.2 3 0.5

TOTAL

8.2 OVERHEADS

THREAD COST Stitch Type

Buttonhole Lockstitch Bartacks Button attachment Coverstitch Overlock

Seam Stitch width/ typ density in mm per cm

Lockstitch Chainstitch 0 0 2 2 (4-hole) (2-hole) 5 5 6 4

89 56 5 3 35 25 30 10 4 3 3 2

Thread requirement per m/ one piece needle bobbin/looper total 0.11 0.7 1.64 1.28 0.14 0.1 0.25 0.13 3.22 2.15 2.15 1.72

0.87 0 1.64 1.28 0.1 0.07 0.25 0.13 9.63 6.13 23 15.66

0.98 0.7 3.28 2.56 0.24 0.17 0.5 0.26 12.85 8.28 25.15 17.38

Fig.: 73

(Amann, n.d.)

Requirement for garment usage thread 2x 2x 200cm 200cm 2x 0.12cm 2x 0.8cm 2x 2x 68cm 68cm 216cm 216cm

1.96m 1.4m 6.56m 5.12m 0.48m 0.30m 1.0m 0.52m 8.74m 5.63m 65.65m 37.54m

Total New Total

84.30m 421,500m x 5000 Shirts 50.51m 252,550m

TRIPLE BOTTOM LINE PEOPLE

PLANET » » » » »

organic cotton recylced Polyester no toxic chemicals less water consumption low carbon footprint

» » » »

per hour

per 12

per single

£ £ £ £

£ £ £ £ £

£ £ £ £ £

0.17 0.02 0.01 0.13 0.02

£

0.34

0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.5

2.00 0.25 0.10 1.50 0.25

HOURS PER DOZEN

factory, equipments, managment, …

Factory Overhead COST OF PRODUCTION Seconds, scrap

£ £ £

0.85 2.48 0.15

TOTAL COST OF MANUFACTURE

£

3.48

Manufacturers Profit Wholesale Price / FOB Price

£ £

0.32 3.80

Carriage, insurance, sea freight Quota, tax, import duty Customes clearance, transport Reprocessing and RTM allowance UK import agency/ admin overhead

£ £ £ £ £

0.50 0.26 0.24 0.16 0.64

TOTAL LANDED COST PRICE

£

3.80

Retailer`s Profit Margin

£

0.79

SELLING PRICE (excluding VAT)

£

6.39

VAT (20%) £

1.60

RETAIL PRICE (including VAT)

Difference

good working conditions respect peoples rights education transparence of manufactring

As demonstrated in section 1, this garment was made by choosing a very specific set of attributes, processes and steps, which all effect the retail price.

But since material bought in large amounts tends to be really cheap, garment construction changes like stitch length or width as demonstrated in Figure 73 can make a huge difference in the amount of components needed. Although the amount of costing would only change the price at about £0.01 per shirt, while the strength and quality of the garment will be dramatically lowered (Fig.: 72).

Considering the large orders H&M needs, with 4,167 stores in 75 countries plus the 55 online markets (H&M, 2022) all stocking at least 4 shirts in every size, making them order this one shirt in this colourway and specific size about 20,000 times, making every pence quickly into £200.

per dozen bundle STD.HRS

168,950m

£

PLANET

Fig.: 74

PRICE

PRICE

PEOPLE

» paying all living wage » less pressure on manufacturer/ with competitors (Harvard Busniess School Online , n.d.)

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

7.99

GIVE AN OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION, PRODUCT MANUFACTURING SYSTEMS , STAGES AND PROCESSES. HOW DOES THIS AFFECT THE COSTING, RETAIL SELLING PRICE AND WHAT COULD BE DONE TO REDUCE THIS IF REQUIRED.

REDUCING COSTS

Possible solutions to reduce the price:

COMMERICAL ACUMEN

(H&M, 2022)

(Love, 2022)

Fig.: 72

14

COSTING

Fig.: 71

COLOURATION AND DYEING PROCESS The most obvious way to reduce cost without losing any of the garment or quality aspects is to reduce the colours of the stripes. Yarn dyeing is a slow and expensive process (Textilepedia, 2020), and with 5 different colour needed on this shirt, an easy way without any major changes would be to create stripes in just 2 colours or even more by making it in only one colour, dyeing all fibres before spun to a yarn. Also speeding up the process of the lab dips significantly.

RAW MATERIAL Another solution could be to increase the amount of polyester in the fibre blend up to 80% or even 100%. Keeping in mind that this would change a lot of the garments benefits as well as the wearing attributes rather unpleasantly, especially the high possibility of electrostatic charges could bother a child. (Fashionary, 2017) PLACE OF PRODUCTION, COMPANY One more possibility but with a larger change is to source form a different supplier growing/ producing the fibres in another country or changing the manufactures to a region with cheaper costs (Bangladesh already has low labour costs, getting payed less than the needed living wage. (Fig.: 58)) or rethinking the location in context to quicker and cheaper transportation. A change to a company with higher daily capacities and MOQ could also reduce costs. (Fashionary, 2019) REDUCE HIDDEN COSTS Some costs might never been seen in a calculation, for example currency fluctuations (Jackson& Shaw,2001), while others might not be related to the actual production of the garment but more with the transportation, insurances and import duties. With H&M’s international reach and the “complex nature of international freight forwarding, many retailers employ in-house experts to advice and control all aspects.” (Jackson& Shaw,p. 123, 2001) Whatever choice will be made, the 3 main topics of the triple bottom line (Fig.: 74) should always be considered as an overall balanced scorecard. All businesses in the fashion industry have a major responsibility and all their actions should be measured in accounts by planet, people and price (Grose, 2021). And while the aim is to reduce the costs, making smart and profitable decisions about a responsible and sustainable use of resources and the environment as well as all the people involved is curcial. (The Economist, 2009) Fig.: 71 shows an image of another kids polo shirt in H&M range for only £5.99 with visible less quality at the labelling, stitching and trims in only one colour, proving a reduce in cost is possible, but only with certain disadvantages. (H&M,2022) From an ethical and sustainable viewpoint, reducing the cost of an already low priced shirt, cutting down on quality, while being made under extreme price pressure is a questionable decision for the future of the fashion industry. The take-make-dispose model is extremely harmful and wasteful. The goal should rather be “to think more deeply about the products we create, the waste we generate and our clothing consumption habits.” (Blums, p.15, 2021), investing in quality and a long product life, to be enjoyed by many kids and parents.

LIVING WAGE

(Ganbold, 2020 & Claeson, 2015)

IMAGINE PART OF YOUR JOB ROLE WAS BASED AROUND GLOBAL SOURCING. LOOK AT WHERE YOUR GARMENT HAS BEEN MADE. WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS AND LIMITATIONS OF CONTINUING TO MANUFACTURE GARMENTS IN THIS COUNTRY IN RELATION TO THE GLOBAL SUPPLY CHAIN AND SUSTAINABILITY?

Fig.: 75

“Actually, garment workers’ progress is like a nightmare. Even having those dreams is a curse for us the garment workers. Our salary is very low compared to the garment workers in the developed countries.

Our standard of living is unbearable. We can barely make our living. We can only breathe. That’s our situation now. Our family, relatives, kids — those who are near to us — we can’t treat them properly. The dreams that we have, they turn into curses.”

BANGLADESH

With the high minimum wages in the UK and for processes that still need a lot of work done by hand, large retailers simply can not produce clothing local anymore. At least not at the low prices fashion consumers nowadays expect. The pressure to find cheaper manufacturing to keep prices low while maximising profits is higher than ever.

“Global Sourcing often aims to procure the delivery of a product from low-wage economies in order to gain access to low-cost skilled labour, low-cost raw materials and other economic factors like tax breaks and low trade tarifs.”

(Boardman, Parker-Strak & Henninger, p.117, 2020)

-Mamun Faruk, quality inspector at garment factory, Bangladesh, December 2014

Bangladesh, especially the city Dhaka, is worldwide one of the cheapest places to manufacture garments, mostly due to the extremely low minimum wage as announced by the Bangladesh Government (Take-Profit, 2022) at “8100 BDT/ Month (93.46 USD/Month) in 2020” resulting in about 50 BDT/Hour (0.58USD/Hour). In combination with the “around 5,000 garment manufacturing firms in the country, employing more than 4,4 million people, 70% to 80% of whom historically have been women” (Khan, Islam and Wichterich, p.113, 2015), the business opportunities in textile and clothing are excellent, and this is expected to continue in the coming times. (Fong`s Engineering, 2013).

Being the second largest exporter of clothing in the world, behind China (Willem te Velde, Moazzem and Woodruff, 2014) with approximately 27.95 billion U.S. dollars export values at ready-made garments in 2020 (Fig.: 76) and the government supplementing with laws on further growth (DFS worldwide, 2022) as well as the manufactures dispositions to invest in high-quality machinery from world renounced companies (Mollah, 2016), Bangladesh obviously has its benefits as an offshore choice.

EXPORT

Fig.: 58

Fig.: 76

(Ganbold, 2020)

But with all theProduct positive sides of Bangladesh’s garment are abylot of Woelfle, weaknesses and not just a few threats Development Project: Product Analysisindustry, of a child´sthere polo shirt Mae N1011985 for a retailer. Challenges and disadvantages in a business relationship with Bangladesh include a lack of transparency, high corruption levels, short supply of gas and electricity up to major ethical issues.

H&M (2022) states: “All our products are made by independent suppliers, often in developing countries where our presence can make a real difference. Our business helps to create jobs and independence, particularly for women — consequently lifting people out of poverty and contributing to economic growth. We only work with partners who share our respect for people and the environment, and who are willing to work with us to improve their practices. All suppliers and factories must sign our strict Sustainability Commitment, which includes requirements for fair wages and good working for all.

We employ dedicated sustainability staff in our worldwide production offices to make sure the “Polo shirtconditions in cotton piqué with a ribbed collar and button placket. Small embroidered detail on the chest, short sleeves with narrow trims, and short slits in the sides of the commitment is followed.”

FABRICATION

hem. Slightly longer at the back.” (H&M Product Describtion 2022)

But according to several reports and researches from international labour, workers’ rights and local organisations, the - Standart fitted classic polo kids polo shirt reality still looks very different for majority of factory workers (Fig.: 75) and “supplier visits might not give a realists - Made out of a weft knitted piqué and rib knitted details like collar and sleeve hem portrayal of worker´s everyday lives.”

(Boardman, Parker-Strak & Henninger, - short attached button placket with two 4-hole plasitc bottons and (-----) buttonholesp.121, 2020)

- ribbed collar, no collar stand, ribbon attached And even though nonlabel of the research can care be related to H&M´s suppliers, quotes and statics like this make - woven brand and size in the back neck, label in directly side seam people doubt what the real working conditions how sides transparent supply chain really is. (Fig.: 75, Fig.:58) - the straight hem is shorter in the front with short sideare slitsand on both with 90°H&M´s corners A disaster like the Rana Plaza building collapse can easily be a huge damage to a brand´s reputation. (Love, Mountain, - small emboidered palm three motiv on the right breast area 2022)

The financial factors also play a big role in the decision making. Long lead times due to the great distance of manufacturing to distribution centres, make fast responses in a trend driven industry nearly impossible. Even the weather conditions, or current world affairs can cause major disruptions. “Absolut delivery dates can never be guaranteed, and late arrivals can have a serious negative impact on profits.” (Boardman, Parker-Strak & Henninger, p.119, 2020) And although the manufacturing costs might be cheaper, the non-transparent costs, like currency fluctuations, quota, transportation, taxes and duties can be easily forgotten, even when they often make up the majority of the total landed costs (Fig.: 72).

(Clean Clothes, 2022)

DECARBONISING LOGISTICS MODEL Fig.: 77

Another factor is the sustainability, especially in the long transportation either by air or sea. If nearshoring is not a possibility, smart green freight practice (Fig.: 77) should be used. “Ships are incredibly polluting. They emit sulphur dioxide, a pollutant linked to respiratory illnesses as well as carbon dioxide and methane. … If no preventive action is taken… emissions could increase by 50-250% by 2050.” (Blum, p.104, 2021) Some shipping companies already plan on becoming fully carbon neutral by using cleaner fuels as well as adapting to new technologies.

GLOBAL SOURCING

15

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

Fig.: 1

CONCLUSION Overall, the garment is of very good quality for its retail price. Efforts for extra strength and appealing optic were taken and design detail like the placket are executed nicely, so the shirt can be handed down to other children when grown out.

But this might be the only sustainable bit since the shirt is not yet part of H&M (2022) promise: “All polyester used in our products will be 100% recycled by 2025” or “We only source 100% recycled or more sustainably-sourced materials by 2030.”

But with only 3 years left to fulfil the goal, this might be a good time for some changes, especially for kids wear in large quantities and a supplier more than happy to adapt and expand for H&M. (Knit Group, 2019)

16

Especially the cotton/ polyester blend is still a big problem for recycling, the methods to separate them again involve a lot of chemicals, special machinery and expertise. (See appendix p. 22 for more information).

So if the goal is to make fashion more circular, 100% cotton might be a better choice in particular for a garment with a high level of detail and durability. Certifications, the use of organic cotton or recycled polyester could justify a slight rise of the retail price to about £9,99, enhancing the sustainability and a better use of resources.

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

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myfabrics.co.uk. 2022. POLO ME GOTS Plain Jersey Pique – pink | Albstoffe | Hamburger Liebe - Cotton Jerseyfavorable buying at our shop. [online] Available at: <https://www.myfabrics.co.uk/173-912h050-03_polo-me-gots-plain-jersey-pique-pink-albstoffe-hamburger-liebe.html> [Accessed 28 April 2022].

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The Textile Magazine. 2016. Knit Concern Group emerges Bangladesh leader in knitwear fabric making. [online] Available at: <https://www.indiantextilemagazine.in/knit-concern-group-emerges-bangladesh-leader-in-knitwear-fabric-making/> [Accessed 6 May 2022].

19

APPENDIX Iberuptius aut occus. Itam quae porenda nis quias et alit qui destio cusdame quias ipsant qui iure volore int labo. Uciliquia asimod qui sim hilitio rruntum repudi odi toribus.

Labo. Ucit fugit idel into dolores molor aut doluptae ernatibus sitionecae cum quatibu scitium faciam nihilli stiorene reruptatur?

Officium, sitat autem volorrum qui doluptatet magnam nes es aut et mollatus adi doluptatet

Fig.: 1

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

21

36. Disputes as to age : (1) If any question arises as to whether any person is a child or an adolescent, the question shall, in the absence of a certificate as to the age fo inspector for decision to a registered medical practitioner.

(2) A certificate as to age of a person granted by a registered medical practitioner as mentioned in sub-section (1), shall be conclusive evidence as to age of the person to whom it relates.

H&M’s business concept is to offer fashion and quality at the best price. Quality also means that our products must be manufactured in a way that is environmentally and socially sustainable. We have a responsibility towards everyone who contributes to our success. We are therefore committed to working closely with our suppliers and business partners to achieve a long-term, sustainable social and environmental standard in the factories that manufacture H&M’s products and in the operations of other business partners.

41. Working hours for adolescent : (1) No adolescent shall be required or allowed to work in any factory or mine, for more than five hours in any day and thirty hours in any week; (2) No adolescent shall be required or allowed to work in any other establishment, for more than seven hours in any day and forty-two hours in any week.

(3) No adolescent shall be required or allowed to work in any establishment between the hours of 7.00 P.M and 7.00 a.m.

(4) If an adolescent works overtime, the total number of hours worked, including overtime shall not exceed(a) in any factory or mine, thirty six hours in any week; (b) in any other establishment, forty eight hours in any week.

(5) the period of work of an adolescent employed in an establishment shall be limited to two shifts which shall not overlap or spread over more than seven and a half hours each.

(6) An adolescent shall be employed in only one of the relays which shall not, except with the previous permission in writing of the Inspector, be changed more frequently than once in a period of thirty days.

(7) The provisions of weekly holiday shall apply also to adolescent workers, and no exemption from the provisions of that section shall be granted in respect of any adolescent.

(8) No adolescent shall be required or allowed to work in more than one establishment in any day.

44. Exception in certain cases of employment of children : (1) Notwithstanding anything contained in this chapter, a child who has completed twelve years of age, may be employed in such light work as not to endanger his health and development or interfere with his education; Provided that the hours of work of such child, where he is school going, shall be so arranged that they do not interfere with is school attendance.

(2) All provisions applicable to an adolescent workers under this chapter shall mutatis-mutandis apply to such child workers.

100. Daily hours : No adult worker shall ordinarily be required or allowed to work in an establishment for more than eight hours in any day: Provided that, subject to the provisions of section 108, any such worker may work in an establishment not exceeding ten hours in any day.

102. Weekly hours : (1) No adult worker shall ordinarily be required or allowed to work in an establishment for more than forty-eight hours in any week. (2) Subject to the provisions of section 108, an adult worker may work for more than forty-eight hours in a week: Provided that the total hours of work of an adult worker shall not exceed sixty hours in any week and on the average fifty-six hours per week in any year: 103. Weekly holiday: An adult worker employed in an establishment55 (a) which is a shop or commercial establishment, or industrial establishment, shall be allowed in each week one and half days holiday and in factory and establishment one day in a week; (b) which is a road transport service, shall be allowed in each week one day’s holiday of twenty four consecutive hours; and no deduction on account of such holidays shall be made from the wages of any such worker.

109. Limitation of hours of work for women : No women shall, without her consent, be allowed to work in an establishment between the hours of 10.00PM and 6.00 AM 114. Closure of shops, etc. : (1) Every establishment which is shop or commercial or industrial establishment shall remain entirely closed for at least one and a half day in each week. (2) The one and half day on which establishments shall remain entirely closed, shall be fixed for each area by the chief Inspector.

115. Casual leave : Every worker shall be entitled to casual leave the full wages for ten days in a calendar year, and such leave shall not be accumulated and carried forward to the succeeding year: Provided that noting in this section shall apply to a worker employed in a tea plantation.

116. Sick leave : (1) Every worker other than a newspaper worker, shall be entitled to sick leave with full wages for fourteen days in a calendar year 118. Festival holidays : (1) Every worker shall be allowed in a calendar year eleven days of paid festival holiday.

(2) The days and dates for such festivals shall be fixed by the employer in such manner as may be prescribed.

(3) A worker may be required to work on any festival holiday, but two day’s additional compensatory holidays with full pay and a substitute holiday shall be provided for him in accordance with the provisions of section 103.

124. Wages to be paid in current coin or currency notes : All wages shall be paid in current coin or currency notes or bank cheque.

We base our requirements mainly on internationally agreed standards such as the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, The UN Convention on the Rights of the Child and applicable ILO Conventions, as well as national legislation.

1. LEGAL REQUIREMENTS Our general rule is that all our suppliers and other business partners must, in all their activities, follow the national laws in the countries in which they operate.

Should any requirement in this Code conflict with the national law in any country or territory, the law must always be followed. In such cases the supplier must notify H&M immediately, before signing this Code.

However, H&M’s requirements may go beyond the requirements set out in national law.

2. CHILD LABOUR IS NOT ACCEPTED (Refer to ILO Conventions 138 and 182 and to the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child) 2.1 Child Labour H&M does not accept child labour. No person shall be employed at an age younger than 15 (or 14 where the national law so allows) or younger than the legal age for employment if this age is higher than 15.

The company must take the necessary preventive measures to ensure that it does not employ anyone below the legal age of employment.

2.2 Young Workers All legal limitations on the employment of persons below the age of 18 years must be followed.

4. WORKERS’ RIGHTS 4.1 Basic Rights 4.1.3 Every employee shall be treated with respect and dignity. Under no circumstances do we accept the use by our suppliers, their subcontractors or other business partners of humiliating or corporal punishment, and no employee shall be subject to physical, sexual, psychological or verbal harassment or abuse.

4.1.4 All employees have the right to form or join associations of their own choosing, and to bargain collectively. H&M does not accept disciplinary or discriminatory actions from the employer against employees who choose to peacefully and lawfully organise or join an association.

(Refer to ILO Conventions 87, 98 and 135) 4.2 Wages, Benefits, Working Hours and Leave As background to this chapter we quote from the Universal Declaration of Human Rights Article 23:3, as guidance concerning our ambition for our suppliers and business partners: “Everyone who works has the right to just and favourable remuneration ensuring for himself and his family an existence worthy of human dignity...”

4.2.1 Wages must be paid regularly, on time, and must reflect the experience, qualifications and performance of the employee. H&M’s minimum requirement is that employers shall pay at least the statutory minimum wage, the prevailing industry wage or the wage negotiated in a collective agreement, whichever is higher. All other types of legally mandated benefits and compensations shall be paid. No unfair deductions are allowed, and the employee has the right to a written specification of how the wage has been calculated.

8. MONITORING AND ENFORCEMENT 8.1 Transparency and Co-operation H&M expects all its suppliers and other business partners to respect this Code of Conduct and to actively do their utmost to achieve our standards. We also expect our suppliers and other business partners to be transparent and not intentionally mislead our auditors. We believe in co-operation and we are willing to work with our suppliers and other business partners to achieve sustainable solutions and to promote suppliers and other business partners who are in compliance.

Ethical behaviour is required by H&M’s auditors and any breaches of H&M’s Code of Ethics must immediately be reported to H&M’s local management or to CoE@hm.com.

8.2 Monitoring All suppliers and other business partners are obliged to keep H&M informed at all times of where each product is being produced, including subcontracting and homework. Relevant documentation must be maintained for auditing purposes. We reserve the right to make unannounced visits to all units producing goods or services for H&M, at any time. We also reserve the right to appoint an independent third party of our choice to conduct audits in order to evaluate compliance with our Code of Conduct. H&M is a member of the FLA, which randomly carries out unannounced audits on behalf of H&M. During audits we require unrestricted access to all areas of the premises, to all documents and to all employees for interviews. We also demand the right to provide employees with contact details for H&M. 8.4 Corrective Action H&M’s audits aim to identify gaps between the requirements in this Code of Conduct and the actual practices and conditions in the workplace. The audited company will usually be given the opportunity to propose and implement a corrective action plan. H&M will follow up the implementation of the plan and verify that violations have been remedied. A supplier failing to undertake sustainable improvements within the stipulated time frame would seriously damage its relationship with H&M. Unwillingness to cooperate or repeated serious violations of H&M’s Code of Conduct and local law may lead to reduced business and ultimately termination of the business relationship with H&M.

138. Establishment of Minimum wages Board : (1) The Government shall establish a board to be called the minimum wages board.

139. Recommendation of minimum rates of wages for certain workers : (1) Where, in respect of any industry, the Government is of the opinion that, in view of the prevailing rates of wages of workers engaged in that industry, it is reasonable and necessary to fix the minimum rates of wages for all or any class of workers employed in such industry, it may direct the wages Board to 66 recommend, after such enquiry as the wages board thinks fit, the minimum rates of wages for such workers or class of workers.

140. Power to declare minimum rates of wages : (1) Upon receipt of a recommendation of the wages board under section 139, the Government may, by notification in the official Gazette, declare that the minimum rates of wages recommended by the wages board for the various workers shall, subject to such exception as may b e specified in the notification, be the minimum rates of wages for such workers.

03

EXTRACTION RELEVENT FOR THIS REPORT

(Bangladesh - Bangladesh Labour (Amendment) Act, 2013)

This Code of Conduct is applicable to all suppliers, their subcontractors and other business partners that do business with H&M Hennes & Mauritz AB (publ.), registered in Sweden, corporate organisation number 556042-7220, or any other company, wholly or partly owned, directly or indirectly, by H&M Hennes & Mauritz AB (“H&M”).

(H&M, 2022)

BANGLADESHI LABOR LAW 2006 (AMENDED 2013)

35. Prohibition of certain agreement in respect of children : Subject to the provisions of this chapter, no person, being the parent or guardian of a child, shall make an agreement, to allow the service of the child to be utilized in any employment.

H&M CODE OF CONDUCT

34. Prohibition of employment of children and adolescent : (1) No child shall be employed or permitted to work in any occupation or establishment.

(2) No adolescent shall be employed or permitted to work in any occupation or establishment unless- (a) a certificate of fitness in the prescribed form and granted to him by a registered medical practitioner is in the custody of the employer ; and (b) he carries , while at work, a token giving a reference to such certificate.

(3) Nothing in this sub-section (2), shall apply to the employment of any adolescent in any occupation or establishment either as an apprentice or or the purpose or receiving vocational training

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985

EXTRACTION RELEVENT FOR THIS REPORT

(TextileExchange, 2021)

22 RECYCLED COTTON /POLYESTER BLENDS

Product Development Project: Product Analysis of a child´s polo shirt by Mae Woelfle, N1011985