Designer File
By: Maddie Jackson
Acne Studios
Jonny Johansson is a Swedish fashion designer who is the creative director and co-founder of Acne Studios. The term
ACNE stands for Ambition to Create Novel Expression. He produces collections that he is confident in and doesn't let other people's opinions get to him.
Acne Studios was founded in 1996 in Stockholm, Sweden. In 1997 Jonny produced 100 pairs of denim jeans with red stitch detailing and gave them away to friends and family.
He mentions in an interview by GQ style that when he was younger, he lost some of his honesty so because of that he now doesn’t get worried if people don’t like what he makes.
He wants to get the raw reactions of people when they see his clothes. Jonny talks about his upbringing with his dad, he mentions how freely his dad dressed and it used to embarrass him, but now he uses him as an inspiration.
Acne Studios Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear
Designer: Jonny Johansson
Key Items/styles: Exploration with proportions/silhouettes, clothes being worn the wrong way while still being wearable, thick tailoring, distresses sweaters, hotpants, bows, crochet, layering, padded suiting/hips.
Colors: Pastels, black and grey
Materials: Mock-croc, leather, knits, jersey
Prints and Patterns: Plaids, polka dots and minimal florals
Acessories and footwear: Crochet/knit textured flats, floral knee-high boots, heels/mules, shoulder bags
Inspiration/ about the collection: The inspiration for this collection came from the installation Jonny saw back when he was at Sadie Coles HQ in London that was created by the artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase. The collection reflects the tenderness, playfulness and spontaneity that the installation conveyed. Chase (the artist) created a custom set design for the Acne Studios runway, this naturally connected with the collection.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton was founded in 1854 and started with selling trunks and luggage. Louis started learning how to use a number of materials when he was sixteen. He started out with making trunks and soon expanded into bags. After the passing Louis, his son George took over the brand and expanded to the United States and introduced the LV monogram.
In 1987 Louis Vuitton became a luxury brand with LVMH, the brand values quality and craftsmanship and through that believe the products have the ability to sell themselves. Louis Vuitton is exceptionally known for their monochromatic handbags and accessories.
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton
Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear
Designer: Nicolas Ghesquière
Key Items/styles: Jackets featuring paintings by French artist Laurent Grasso from his series “Studies into the Past”, day/ evening pieces, architectual shapes, detail and structure, puff sleeve jackets, drop-waist ribbed knit dress, blouson jackets, asymmetric trousers
Colors: Black, white, grey, tan, navy, red, yellow, orange
Materials: Silk, knits, blouse weight fabric, sheers
Prints and Patterns: Stripes, painted prints, ribbed textures, embellished details
Acessories and footwear: “Generational” bag, hats, loosely tied scarfs, long necklaces, chunky leather sandals, textured/ feather flats
Inspiration/ about the collection: The collection was inspired by the idea of “Soft Power”, silhouettes were inspired by 1980s women in the workplace and there was influence from French artist Laurent Grasso with the ending jackets. Nicolas is always creating towards the future instead of the now, keeping all his designs constantly innovative. The signature Louis Vuitton trunks were used to create the runway.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood is a self-taught British Fashion Designer. Westwood's story began in 1971 when she started designing clothes for Malcom Mclaren; following this, they opened their first store titled “Let It Rock” in London. She died in 2022 on December 29th. Westwood was known for her punk and self-expression style; she would express her personal and political views through fashion. She took inspiration from classical paintings and historical dress. She also emphasized sustainability a lot in her designs and expressed her goals as making clothes last a lifetime and ultimately wants her customer to be intentional with what their buying and how much of it.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear
Designer: Andreas Kronthaler
Key Items/ styles: Tailoring, intermixed textures, exposed seams, full skirts, draped tops, sheers, wrap
dresses, one-shoulder dresses, wide shoulder jackets
Colors: Tans, whites, grey and black with mixed in colors (pinks, blue, green and red)
Materials: Wool, knits, crepe
Prints and Patterns: Plaids, stripes
Acessories and footwear: Handbags, hats, sunglasses, headphones, pearls, big earrings, dress shoes, flats, heels
Inspiration/ about the collection: Kronthaler called the collection “A returning” and was the first collection
dedicated only to women's wear since 2014. The collection was designed for a feminine and powerful woman, and it didn't draw any reference from history, it was made from the classic Westwood aspects that make up the brand identity.
Sacai
Sacai is a high-fashion Japanese clothing brand founded in 1999 by Chitose Abe. She started off working at Comme Des Garcons for eight years then left to start her own brand. She had her first shop in Paris in 2009 and her first appearance on the runway in 2011 as well as her first Flagship store in Tokyo that same year. She has done many collaborations with high established brands such as Ugg, Nike, Vans and Birkenstock. Her design style is very feminine, sophisticated and complex and often combines them all. She gets her inspiration from TV and magazines and has styled her own way ever since she was young. In a Sense article mentioned how she used to dress very “Vivienne Westwood”.
Chitose Abe for Sacai Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear
Designer: Chitose Abe
Key Items/ styles: Peacoats, trenches, army-surplus jackets, mariniere sweaters, fringe mocking fur, sheer panels, boxy and unconventional shapes
Colors: Black, white, khaki tan, navy, chocolate brown, olive green
Materials: Silk, knits, denim, sheer
Prints and Patterns: Stripes, plaid, cheetah print
Acessories and footwear: Gold bracelets, micro handbags, embroidered pockets, gold buckled knee high boots, floppy fringe fur shoes
Inspiration/ about the collection: This collection was classic staple pieces with a twist, it described as wearable everyday couture. She enjoys mixing different sides, personalities and genders to create something completely new. With the opening of her new office in Paris, the influence is seen through the collection giving “Parisian spirt” said in a Vogue article. Vogue also mentioned the SA embroidered monogram on pockets resembling YSL.
Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela Hearst is an American Fashion Designer; she worked in design for eleven years before launching her brand in 2015.
The brand produces exceptionally high-quality products and has even been compared to Hermes. This also goes hand in hand with her take on sustainability and how she does things at a slower pace, ensuring the work is done with high detail and crafted well.
“Tradition is more important than trend, where there is a purpose to every piece.”
Gabriela Hearst Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear
Designer: Gabriela Hearst
Key Items/ styles: Strong sharp tailoring, slinky knits, romantic dresses, ponchos, puff sleeves, long leather coats, boho vibe
Colors: Black, white, cream, khaki, camel brown, grey, blue, gold yellow
Materials: Metal-woven silk, knits, leather, denim
Prints and Patterns: Subtle abstract watercolor knit look, assorted squares, fringed yarn
Acessories and footwear: Slouchy handbags, belts, flats, sneakers, cowboy boots
Inspiration/ about the collection: The collection was designed through reference of mother nature and spiritual faith and goddess worship. The lightness of the collection resembled her inspiration, and it was a attribute for respecting women. She included all of her signature pieces while them more refined and innovative. She started experimenting with new materials - mulberry silk and hand-knits and also used leather in new ways, one of them being cowboy boots which were featured in the collection.
Schiaparelli
Elsa Schiaparelli is Italian Fashion Designer; she founded her fashion house in 1927. They become known for their surrealist take on fashion.
Schiaparelli is heavily known for connecting art and fashion and creating highly crafted garments.
In 2019 Daniel Roseberry was appointed creative director of Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli
Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear
Designer: Daniel Roseberry
Key Items/ styles: Hourglass shapes, shoulder pads, long braided whip detailing, draping below the hips, oversized coats
Colors: Black, white, light brown, red, blue, yellow
Materials: Denim, suede, jersey, mesh, sequins
Prints and Patterns: Zebra stripes, embroidered florals, pin stripes
Acessories and footwear: Chunky gold jewelry and accessories, shoulder bags, gold additives, heels, leather babouche slides
Inspiration/ about the collection: Daniel explains how he wanted to keep it in the family and design a generational collection, one that is bought by the mothers and borrowed by the daughters, Schiaparelli has been known as “securing a family heirloom, rather than simply buying into the latest trending item”. The silhouettes were very 80's, very voluminous and used a fair share vibrant colors but still remained effortless. This collection was geared to a very specific clientele, the ones who have the wealth and the little waists.
Chanel
Gabrielle Bonheur was a French Fashion Designer and the founder of the Chanel fashion house in 1910. Chanel made their big impact on the 1920s clothing style through shortening dresses and giving empowerment to women. In 1920 the first perfume - Chanel No. 5 was introduced and then later “little black dress” and the Chanel suit, which is still shown on the runway today, while reinventing and thought of in new ways.
Chanel is still known for their original elements that made them as a brand in over a century ago. Their designs are timeless while still staying modern and up to date. The brand is known today as having feminine and timeless style.
Current collections are designed by using the brand roots, that being classic and comfortable garments that are just re-invented through the years
Virginie Viard for Chanel
Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear
Designer: Virginie Viard
Key Items/ styles: Front slit skirts, feathered collars, chiffon capes, embellished denim
Colors: Pastels, black, white, cream
Materials: Hand-knits, chiffon, tweed, denim, fringe, sheer knitted lace, feather and sequins embellishments
Prints and Patterns: Tweeds, knitted stripes, feather print
Acessories and footwear: Bows, black and silver belts, bird cage purses, flower earpieces, feather earrings, platform shoes
Inspiration/ about the collection: The collection brought a lightness, airy and ethereal feel and went straight back to the freedom that Gabriel originally brought to the brand. There was a mix between playfulness and an ohmage to the classic garments that Chanel is known for.
Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham is a British Fashion Designer; she launched her brand in 2008 after being featured in British Vogue that same year. In 2014 Victoria Beckham opened her first store in London and then two years later her first bricks and mortar in Asia.
Her brand consists of modern and refined clothing while still reflecting her personal style. She keeps her brand very luxury through using highly crafted skills and materials.
Through each collection the clothing has become more innovative, more progressive and is also looking to the next project.
Beckham gets influenced through art, film and classic British style. Her clothes are always polished, relevant and current to the moment through precise tailoring and modern aspects.
Victoria Beckham Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear
Designer: Victoria Beckham
Key Items/ styles: Romantic flowy floral dresses, tailoring, slouchy trousers, denim jackets, deconstructed blazers, open belts, slashed pants, wire curved dresses, skirt and pant waistbands that stand away from the body, slight bubble hem
Colors: Pea green, beige, white, khaki, maroon, blush pink, black
Materials: Silk chiffon (dipped in resin to sculp the body), denim, leather, knits, sheers, sequins
Prints and Patterns: Florals
Acessories and footwear: Sheer sinched handbags, large totes, glasses, sheer oxfords and pumps
Inspiration/ about the collection: The opening corset that sculpted the body were made from silk chiffon that was dipped in resin, this represented a new side to her brand and held the question of Beckham delving into more avant-garde fashion looks in the future. She really pushed her limits with this collection and explored the brand in new ways that hasn't been done before. There was a nakedness illusion she said that conveyed seductive and sexiness to a woman when getting dressed. She took inspiration from an art piece by Jean Michel-Basquiat which helped form the color palette.
Ganni
Ganni is a Danish fashion brand that was founded in 2000 by Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup. In 2009 the brand took a turn into developing designs that were more contemporary and ready-to-wear, they played with contrast by pairing different items to-gather to create something interesting.
The brand is influenced through Copenhagen style, which is very cool, easy and laid-back. Their brand style is very functional and convenient while still looking stylish. The term “Ganni Girl” was discovered through the rise and popularity of Ganni. Their clothes have been worn on many celebrities and has naturally attracted the right customers.
The brand identity is described as smart luxury, through being sustainability and staying modern while using playful prints and colors.
Ditte Reffstrup for Ganni
Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear
Designer: Ditte Reffstrup
Key Items/ styles: Bubble silhouettes, re-purposed sport jerseys, trench coats with melon-cut sleeves, denim
jackets, shirts over dresses and skirts, strong tailoring
Colors: Lime green, chocolate brown, blues, black, white, grey, red, pink
Materials: Hand-knits, biotex, sheers, denim, rhinestones
Prints and Patterns: Leopard, florals
Acessories and footwear: Ruffled scarves, peter pan collars, double belts, laced cross body bags, laced and belted boots
Inspiration/ about the collection: This collection was called “Craft” in honor of Ganni looking to the future with their use of technology and impact on reducing their carbon footprint. The collection is filled with the Ganni classics reimagined that mixes other aspects, such as belts and hardware that make up the “Ganni girl”. Ditte really wanted to showcase the fabrications that related to the concept of magic.
Anna Sui
Anna Sui is an American Fashion Designer; she launched her first fashion line in 1980 and launched her brand in 1981. Sui opened her flagship store in 1992 in SoHo.
Sui gets a lot of her inspiration from vintage clothing and Asian culture and is highly known for prints and colors. She is also inspired by music, art, literature and history. Sui has been known to also inspire a lot of incoming designers.
Designer: Anna Sui
Anna Sui Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear
Key Items/ styles: A-line shift dresses, tulle skirts and dresses, swim sets, cardigans, capris, layering
Colors: Black, white, pastels - yellow, blue, pink, green, purple
Materials: Tulle, silk, cotton, knits, sheers
Prints and Patterns: Jacquards, florals, picnic checkered
Acessories and footwear: Cat eye sunglasses, head scarfs, straw basket bags, top hats, socks and kitten heels/flats
Inspiration/ about the collection: The collection was inspired by Andy Warhols commercial art which influenced the color palette and prints that used the same outline technique as Warhol. There was also a sense of 60s travel and resort wear that influenced Anna, and she mentioned her niece calling the collection demure which was spot on. This just reminds me of our grandmothers clothing re told in a new and current modern way, I would also personally wear each of these looks!
Citations:
Acne Studios:
Johnson, Noah. “Acne Studios Founder Jonny Johansson Doesn’t Care If Drake and Rihanna Wear His Clothes.” GQ, 16 Nov. 2016, www.gq.com/story/acne-studios-designerjonny-johansson-interview.
“How Acne Studios Created an Entire Empire from 100 Pairs of Jeans.” Vogue Scandinavia, www.voguescandinavia.com/articles/acne-studios-in-our-jeans. Accessed 9 Nov. 2024.
“PFW: Playing with Proportions at Acne Studios Spring/Summer 2025.” Grazia, 26 Sept. 2024, graziamagazine.com/articles/acne-studios-spring-summer-2025/.
Nast, Condé. “Acne Studios Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show.” Vogue, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/acnestudios/slideshow/collection#32. Accessed 9 Nov. 2024.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood:
Baidoo, Angela. “Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood.” The Impression, 28 Sept. 2024, theimpression.com/andreas-kronthaler-for-vivienne-westwood-spring-2025fashion-show-review/.
Nast, Condé. “Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show.” Vogue, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-towear/andreas-kronthaler-for-vivienne-westwood/slideshow/collection#44. Accessed 9 Nov. 2024.
Louis Vuitton:
Phelps, Nicole. “Louis Vuitton Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection.” Vogue, Vogue, 1 Oct. 2024, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/louis-vuitton.
“This Is How Louis Vuitton Mastered the Art of Timeless Luxury with These Marketing Strategies.” Brand Vision, www.brandvm.com/post/louis-vuitton-marketing-strategy. Accessed 9 Nov. 2024.
YouTube, youtu.be/M6j 9SjxIp0?si=cJHIuBB5tBQ-Py 8. Accessed 9 Nov. 2024.
Sacai:
Phelps, Nicole. “SACAI Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection.” Vogue, Vogue, 30 Sept. 2024, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/sacai.
Paris Fashion Week Review: Celine, SACAI, Balenciaga, and More, www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-week/a62469013/paris-fashion-week-review-celine-sacai-stellamccartney-gabriela-hearst-balenciaga/. Accessed 9 Nov. 2024.
Blanks, Tim. “In Paris, Shapes of Things to Come.” The Business of Fashion, The Business of Fashion, 30 Sept. 2024, www.businessoffashion.com/reviews/fashion-week/parisfashion-week-spring-summer-2025-sacai-junya-watanabe-duran-lantink-review-tim-blanks/.
“Sacai: What to Know about the Japanese Brand: Highsnobiety.” Highsnobiety, www.highsnobiety.com/tag/sacai/. Accessed 11 Nov. 2024.
Ssense. “The SACAI Century.” Ssense, 29 Nov. 2016, www.ssense.com/en-us/editorial/fashion/the-sacai-century.
Gabriela Hearst:
Nast, Condé. “Gabriela Hearst Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show.” Vogue, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/gabrielahearst/slideshow/collection#48. Accessed 9 Nov. 2024.
Gabriela Hearst. “About Us.” Gabriela Hearst, gabrielahearst.com/pages/about. Accessed 12 Nov. 2024.
Citations:
Schiaparelli:
Phelps, Nicole. “Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection.” Vogue, Vogue, 27 Sept. 2024, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-towear/schiaparelli.
Baidoo, Angela. “Schiaparelli.” The Impression, 28 Sept. 2024, theimpression.com/schiaparelli-spring-2025-fashion-show-review/.
“Maison Schiaparelli - the History of the House.” Maison Schiaparelli - The Story of the House, www.schiaparelli.com/en/21-place-vendome/the-story-of-thehouse/. Accessed 12 Nov. 2024.
Chanel:
Phelps, Nicole. “Chanel Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection.” Vogue, Vogue, 1 Oct. 2024, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/chanel.
Malach, Hannah. “All about Coco Chanel’s Greatest Innovations, from Chanel No.5 to the Little Black Dress.” WWD, WWD, 23 Aug. 2024, wwd.com/feature/cocochanel-facts-1236541865/.
Goldstone, Penny. “Chanel Spring/Summer 2025: An Emotional Return to the Grand Palais.” Marie Claire UK, Marie Claire UK, 1 Oct. 2024, www.marieclaire.co.uk/fashion/chanel-spring-summer-2025.
Victoria Beckham:
Holgate, Mark. “Victoria Beckham Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection.” Vogue, Vogue, 27 Sept. 2024, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-towear/victoria-beckham.
“About.” Victoria Beckham UK, www.victoriabeckham.com/pages/about. Accessed 11 Nov. 2024.
The Style Story of Victoria Beckham in Five Key Moments - Google Arts & Culture.” Google, Google, artsandculture.google.com/story/the-style-story-of-victoriabeckham-in-five-key-moments-british-fashion-council/QwXh6ivCZ1 lIA?hl=en. Accessed 11 Nov. 2024.
Victoria Beckham Spring 2025 Fashion Show Review | the Impression, theimpression.com/victoria-beckham-spring-2025-fashion-show-review/. Accessed 12 Nov. 2024.
Ganni:
Borrelli-Persson, Laird. “Ganni Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection.” Vogue, Vogue, 24 Sept. 2024, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-towear/ganni.
Sutton, Samantha. “How Ganni Became the Brand Beloved by Everyone from Beyoncé to Bella Hadid.” InStyle, InStyle, 27 June 2024, www.instyle.com/history-ofganni-fashion-brand-7104947.
“What Is Ganni’s Approach to Sustainability?” Latterly.Org, www.latterly.org/ganni-marketingstrategy/#:~:text=The%20GANNI%20brand%20identity%20revolves%20around%20the%20concept,its%20status%20as%20a%20B%20Corp%20certified%20company. Accessed 11 Nov. 2024.
LeviKaye. “Unapologetically Ganni: Paris Fashion Week SS25 Review.” Antagonizine, antagonizine, 1 Oct. 2024, antagonizine.wixsite.com/website/post/unapologetically-ganni-paris-fashion-week-ss25-review.
Anna Sui:
Phelps, Nicole. “Anna Sui Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection.” Vogue, Vogue, 7 Sept. 2024, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/anna-sui.
“Designer Profiles: Anna Sui.” Vintage Clothing Guides, 21 Sept. 2024, vintageclothingguides.com/designer-profiles/designer-profiles-anna-sui/.