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Watches Jewellery

Poetic Perception

Van Cleff & Arples up close and personal

Bling me up Where do you draw the line?

Time-pieces

The latest trends direct from Basel

Forever and ever Diamonds sparkle in the new season


Foreword by the numbers Yes, all stats were dug up from a range of obscure websites, including those of the Macau Government and Macau Business

1,728

number of parts which make up a Caliber 89 by Patek Philippe, making it one of the most complicated watches in the world.

33

number of complications of a Caliber 89.

US$11 million

auction price in 1999 of a super-complicated pocket watch built in 1933 by Patek Phillipe for New York banker Henry Graves Jr.

US$25 million

price of Chopard’s lady wrist watch adorned with three heart-shaped diamonds.

201

number of carats adorning the above time piece by Chopard: a 15-carat pink diamond, a 12-carat blue one and an 11-carat white diamond, plus 163 carats of several other coloured diamonds…

5

number of years it took to make it.

5

number of months it takes to assemble Tour de L’ile, a wristwatch from Vacheron Constantin’s 250th-anniversary collection.

250

number of parts in a typical date-display chronograph watch.

40.63-carats

weight of the rare Burmese ruby set into the world’s most expensive necklace – Garrad’s Heart of the Kingdom.

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Diamonds are oddities of nature, just a few atoms apart from ‘worthless’ coal, or graphite - a much more stable form of carbon. Yet their properties dazzle even the most common of mortals. The Greeks called called them adámas, “unbreakable, untamed.” The hardest known mineral, diamonds are used as tools and abrasives but it is their lustre - much the same as gold with its non oxidation issue - that sets them apart from other gemstones. Diamonds are thought to have been first recognised and mined in India, some 6000 years ago, and they still capture the human imagination today, perhaps even more so. This issue of ESSENTIAL is definitely a diamondiferous one: sharp, alluring, dazzling, priceless. The diamonds are only the tip of the iceberg though. Our mission remains to every month feature the very best money and good taste can get you: exclusive designs of the latest collections from world renowned master jewellers, vintage items, crucifixes from the silver screen, new trends, and much, much more. Clover lovers will appreciate an interview with Van Cleef & Arpels’ regional director, and the more inquisitive minds will delight in our bling experiment - where to draw the line. Maintaining the ‘precious/ priceless’ tone, we display some of the most luxurious gem incrusted time pieces. We certainly recognise craftsmanship when we see it, but we couldn’t help but be bedazzled by some of the pieces - gem stone or otherwise expensively coated engineering masterpieces. And for the real connoisseurs, we found something extra special: the US$1 million Black Caviar Bang limited edition by Hublot - just one piece was made. Next month we’ll talk about the nectars of gods, and their fumes:Wine, Spirits and Cigars.You might have been told that Macau holds some of the best wines from the Old and New World - well, we’ll prove it.We go about finding the most exclusive vintages, and the most lavish places to enjoy them. Spirit wise, we debunk the myth that Macau has no mixology base. Not everyone has the stomach to gulp down a 40 year old Scotch in one go, but they are sure to appreciate the subtleties of a pristinely prepared Manhattan or a sip from a 18th century Cognac. And since we’re not the fanatic kind (except when it comes to good taste) we’ll let you in on the secrets of the most famous entheogen: Nicotiana, or tobacco for mortals. Forget cigarettes, they are for beardless teenagers; real men smoke cigars. We always crave your feedback. The first issues of ESSENTIAL have been met with enthusiasm from many a reader and we thank you for your encouragement and suggestions. If you have something to share please keep it clean and write to us at ESSENTIAL@macaubusiness.com. Go ahead, indulge yourself in the best the city has to offer and enjoy!


Watches

Jewellery

They can be both a watch and a piece of jewellery

Like no other utility (unless it’s an investment) - how it blings is the most important feature

Tasteful men often make them the only luxury accessory

Women tend to have as much as they can get, just in case…

Classic models with complicated features are a safe investment bet They can be in-your-face bling or perfectly discrete A fine watch lasts a lifetime

The more diamonds and gems the better Wherever you go, you want them to be noticed The problem is, you never know when to stop

01 Having just a few pieces of jewellery is fine. Just make sure they are versatile and can be used night and day. 02 It is better to wear nothing than to wear a fake piece. 03 It is OK to wear bijouterie even on important evenings. Some Chanel pieces are highly recommended! 04 Store your jewellery in separate little pouches so they don’t scratch each other. 05 Never spray perfume on top of pearls! Remember to clean them with a dry cloth after a night out. 06 Beware of jewellery that might snag your dresses! Silks, satin and thin knits especially… 07 Avoid loud clanging bangles in the office. You’ll annoy everyone. How can you type with those anyway? 08 If you are showing off with a low-backed dress, try wearing a necklace backwards. It’ll do the trick! 09 When preparing to go out, always choose to highlight either the dress or the jewellery. You can’t do both. 10 When preparing to go out, the perfect combination is normally a watch, a ring and a necklace, plus little stud earrings… any more than that and you’ll look over the top.

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feature

Cross of class The devil is always in the details, and Hollywood know this best. There’s a fine edge between a blockbuster and a flop, no matter how big a budget or the stars in the mix. The Angels and Demons production team seems to have given much thought to detail in a effort to lend authenticity to Dan Brown’s fictional novel. Leaving little to chance, movie studio Sony Pictures recruited none other than 85-year Italian master jeweller Damiani to produce the religious ornaments for its flick. When you see Cardinal Strauss, elector of the conclave, sporting a fine heavy cross, you’ll see what we mean. Silvia Damiani and the film’s costume designer, Daniel Orlandi, spent months searching through archives and historical documents, looking for traditional symbols and finding jewels from myth and legend. Created specifically for this project, the jewels worn by the characters in the film form a collection of crosses, necklaces and rosary beads in yellow and rose gold with onyx or enamel. If you’re done with the silver screen and prefer a more hands-on appreciation of Damiani’s work, the Macau branch is hosting a private viewing this month at its flagship store within The Venetian Macao from the 12th until the 21st. The event celebrates the Italian master jeweller’s new brand ambassador, 50 year old iconic Hollywood actress Sharon Stone. Give it a go and you’ll be browsing through a whole wardrobe of exclusive masterpieces worth well over HK$30 million.

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Big spender

Hublot Black Caviar Bang Price: US$1 million Swiss manufacturer of luxury watches Hublot has introduced the one million dollar watch Black Caviar Bang. This watch’s setting is extremely complex due to the unusual lines of its case – round but with sharp angles. The white gold, one-piece construction of the case does not reveal one grain of gold, and the diamonds, cut in mysterious ways, seem to hold together as if by magic. The only visible feature is the black and deep tones of the diamonds, shining in their harmonious alignment. This unique piece, which houses a Tourbillon, symbolises the fusion between watch making and jewellery, tradition and technology, glitter and invisibility. It took over 2000 hours of meticulous work to create this watch, from design to final adjustment. The case, in 18K white gold, is covered with 322 black diamonds (25 carats). The crystal is an AR-coated sapphire, as is the display back. The bezel, done in 18K white gold, is covered with 179 black diamonds (6 carats). Movement is the Hublot caliber HUB Solo T, a 1 minute Tourbillon Volant, manual-wind with special black finishing. The watch has 24 jewels, beats at 21,600 bph and has a power reserve of 120 hours. The bracelet is rubber with an 18K white gold closure covered with 30 black diamonds (3.5 carats). The watch is manufactured in a limited edition of just one piece.

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Interview

If you can count Jacqueline Kennedy and Grace Kelly among your customers you must be doing something right. Macau Business asked Van Cleef & Arpels’ French-born regional marketing and communications manager Aude Bousser, why it feels so good to wear the brand

Poetic perception VCA is a Paris based company. How did it all start? Van Cleef & Arpels was founded in 1906 through the marriage of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels, who both came from families wellversed in jewellery-making. They opened the first Van Cleef & Arpels boutique at the prestigious Place Vendôme and began to reveal a myriad array of creations exhibiting exceptional craftsmanship and creativity. With a history of over 100 years, Van Cleef & Arpels is now one of the top international jewellery houses with over 70 boutiques around the world. The company is renowned for its sought-after High Jewellery Collection, iconic Alhambra line and Poetic Complication watches. Its creations are based on excellence and charm. What are the brand’s best sellers? The Alhambra collection with its iconic four-leaf clover motif has always been the best-seller. First launched in the 1970s, Alhambra is known for its four-leaf clover motif symbolizing love, luck, wealth and health.

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The luck-bringing line has then evolved over the years with new inspiration and now has its complete assortment of necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets and watches in different colors and motifs. In our High Jewellery collections, all the pieces are one of a kind and are highly appreciated for their artistic and investment value. “A Day in Paris” High Jewellery collection was launched in celebration of the house’s centenary in 2006, and was so successful that this year we revealed a new bijoux collection with the same creative spirit at a more affordable price. Among our watch collections, the unprecedented Poetic Complications collection is now VCA’s signature bestselling watches. The creative concept of “Poetry of Time” gives our customers a new way to perceive time and turn watches into a reminder of what is most important in life. What type of people are VCA designs aimed at? The woman who loves to wear Van Cleef & Arpels jewels is elegant, sophisticated and appreciates art and the patrimonial value of the objects. She is also unique in her own perception of life and style. We celebrate femininity and are also inspired by different women. Among the prominent women who have worn us are the Duchess of Windsor, Grace Kelly and Jackie Kennedy. They were closely associated with Van Cleef & Arpels and often chose to wear our pieces at high-profile events.


What is the VCA design philosophy? We believe time is renewal. By creating timeless pieces we can keep these precious moments, stories and memories intact and vivid. To make it happen, we find inspiration from the everlasting themes of nature, haute couture and culture, combined with the highest quality of stones and unsurpassed craftsmanship. All these elements come together to create a truly eternal jewel.

What is the brand best known for? Apart from being known for our timeless creations, Van Cleef & Arpels is a jewellery house that is acclaimed for its ongoing strive for excellence in creativity and craftsmanship. By creating the zip necklaces, mystery setting technique and poetic complication watches, Van Cleef & Arpels carries on its adventure into innovation. We also accentuate exclusivity and quality since all our High Jewellery creations are created solely in our own atelier in Paris. How long, from design to conception, to create an exceptional piece ? As we insist on perfection, a unique high jewellery piece, usually takes 8 to 12 months until completion. Our creative team starts with detailed research on the origin and story of the design and propose drafts to the jewelers in the workshop. The next step is stone selection, which is also a key to realising the highest quality. Then our stonecutters and setters in the atelier in Paris work on the piece to ensure its resemblance to the drawings and each stone is set to perfection. Each step is essential in creating an exceptional piece.

It is a little-known fact that gems can enhance you sex life. In fact they are an integral part of turning animal attraction into full-on lurve. Think about it, they offer intimacy and there’s a powerful argument that they are the first step in foreplay. So bring it on, make your love life a jewel! Forget necklaces or earrings, bangles and brooches. Rings are the thing. There is no doubt, these are the most symbolic pieces of jewellery. For centuries they have been the customary gift for brides. They also represent the contract between the bride and the groom. In Europe, emeralds were believed to possess the power to promote chastity and wealth. It is also generally believed that they are a sacred stone of the goddess Venus that can preserve love. On a more secular note, they are a symbol of hope. Sapphires, which mean ‘blue’ in Greek, encourage marital chastity. If you see someone wearing an inordinate number of sapphires you know what her husband wants… Sapphires are also a symbol of heaven and devotion to God. Some even say a necklace of sapphires will cure a sore throat. Rubies - said to be the most powerful gem in the universe - are associated with astral signs. To own a ruby is to have peace and contentment. Under a pillow, a ruby might ward off bad dreams and on a ring it should be worn on the left hand to receive its ‘life force’ and protection… old beliefs considered a ruby ring would allow the wearer to combat lust (who wants that!?). Diamonds are said to be good for dealing with mucus problems! We would rather think about something more pleasant like the way they symbolise innocence and constancy. That’s why they are given to brides (nowadays such innocence is weighed in carats…). Diamonds increase the power of other gemstones, like emeralds. But be careful, if you wear a diamond necklace and have negative thoughts or feelings, your body energy can be blocked! But if all you really want is pure and simple sex, wait until you try the Cat’s Eye, known as the “Tail of the Dragon”. By wearing it, you should be able to subdue your enemies and develop a stronger spiritual union with your partner – translation: boost your sex life because this is a very sexual stone. Oh yeah, and it will also enhance your divine knowledge…whatever that is.

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Watches

Leading watchmakers love complicated models. It is a way to show off their talent, heritage and exquisite handcrafting capabilities. At BaselWorld – the world’s most important watch fair – the latest of those wonder models were shown. We picked up a few for your perusal. Although the trend seems to lead to smaller, less complicated and more friendly to your wallet models, knowledge about watches is in those watchmakers DNA. Each one of these pieces are a work of art in themselves. In times of crisis these collectibles can save your finances!

Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Chronograph - self-winding chronograph. 18K white and yellow gold case and AP folding clasp, transparent sapphire case back. Water-resistant to 20 metres. Calibre 3124/3841 2008. Price: Yellow gold model – HK$250,000 White gold model – HK$280,000

Millenary Précieuse Collection – this haute joaillerie collection was inaugurated in 2007 and this year it presents the ‘evening wear’ models enriched with gem-set rings strapped by satin. Price: Pink gold with mother-of-pearl and pink satin strap – HK$308,000

Chopard Sir Elton John Collection To mark Chopard’s 10 years of support of the Elton John AIDS Foundation, Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele has designed a new watch collection in collaboration with Sir Elton John. Elton John watch white gold and Dial set with 343 black diamonds (1.50 carat) : Limited edition: 25 Price: MOP 900,000

Sotirio Bulgari 125th anniversary edition In the mid 19th century, Sotirio Bulgari sensed the new spirit of his time and, assembling his formidable arsenal of artistic and artisanal skills, left Greece for Corfu and then went on to Italy. His enterprising spirit upset many existing schemes, anticipating practices that would become standard only much later. It is to this man - an entrepreneur, aesthete and founder of one of the world’s most respected jewelers and watchmakers - that Bulgari dedicates, on the occasion of its 125th anniversary, three watches as extraordinary as the history that began with Sotirio Bulgari.

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Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel Features: Automatic Tourbillon featuring a Perpetual Calendar with double coaxial retrograde hands. In-house manufacture movement with automatic winding, BVL 465 caliber, 465 components. See-through Tourbillon with exclusive hanging bridge. 64-hour power reserve, 46 jewels, 21’600 vph (3 HZ). Diameter of 28.60 mm and thickness of 8.30 mm. Exclusive black gold finishing with hand-made “perlage”, chamfered edges and polished treatments. Hand-finished 18K gold rotor. The Tourbillon device limits the influence of gravity on the precision of the watch by mounting the escapement and regulation organ in a revolving cage that makes one revolution per minute, thus compensating for inaccuracies caused by the vertical position. The Perpetual Calendar automatically adjusts the date to the length of the current month and also adjusts to leap years.


IWC - International Watch Co. Schaffhausen Aquatimer New members of the diving family in 2009 are: Aquatimer Deep Two, Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos, Aquatimer Chronograph and Aquatimer Chronograph in red gold and the Aquatimer Automatic 2000. All have the following features in common: the case dimensions have increased slightly to 44 mm and in one particular instance to 46 mm. The rotating diving bezel is now located externally (it can be rotated when wearing gloves). A sapphire crystal ring lies above a thick layer of super-luminova luminous pigment applied in six coats.

Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month The latest model in the Da Vinci collection is another milestone in haute horlogerie: its digital displays make not just every day, but every month too, into a significant event. Its fly back chronograph sets the standard. This watch harks back to the earliest digitaldisplay timepieces from Schaffhausen of more than a hundred years ago.

A. Lange & Söhne New LANGE 1 TIME ZONE In pink gold with grey dial

Technomarine’s 2009 Collection

Louis Vuitton The Tambour line went from its wonderful sportive look with leather straps to – and for the first time – a bi-metallic model version 18K gold. It comes in three varieties: Chronograph, GMT and Lady – all with automatic movements.

At the Baselworld, Technomarine launched the BlackWatch and complemented the UF6 Colors collection with UF6 Yatching and UF6 Polo. Inspired by the world of military submarines, the BlackWatch is the latest jumbo-sized chronograph with a strong, industrial design aesthetic. Details such as the hatch-like bezel, exposed screw heads, anti-slip surfaces and the over-riding matt black PVD case, are all attributed to the watch’s aquatic origins. The new UF6 collection appeals to those dedicated to Yatching and Polo.

This piece has an off-centre dial layout, a twin mainspring barrel with a power reserve of three days and the first outsize date in a regularly produced wristwatch. This collection, first shown in 2005, inspired an entire industry. The Lange 1 Time Zone is complemented with an easily adjustable display of the hour in a second time zone due to an ingenious adjustment mechanism that makes it possible to conveniently swap the home time displayed on the large dial and the zone time indicated on the subsidiary dial. As an alternative to the original combination of an 18K pink-gold case with a bright argenté dial, the solid-silver dial is now also available in distinguished grey.

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Watches Chanel J 12 Collection J 12 Joaillerie white gold - The bezel is set with 36 baguette-cut sapphires weighting 6 carats and the dial comprises 8 diamond indexes. The cabochon crown is in blue sapphire and the ceramic bracelet has a triple folding in 18K white gold. This is a numbered 10-piece edition.

Omega Omega Constellation Luxury Edition The OMEGA Constellation Luxury Edition watches shimmer with round diamonds whose seemingly random distribution in an intriguing “snow setting” respects the geometry of each jewelled component of every watch. Omega Constellation Thousands of Diamonds, the most spectacular of the models in the Constellation Luxury Edition, glistens with thousands of diamonds in its snow setting. These jewelled masterpieces, with their 24, 27 and 31 mm cases, dazzle with 7.60, 8.84 and 9.06 carats. The diamonds pave the entire surface of each part of the watch: the dial, the case, the bezel, the claws, the crown and the bracelet.

Breitling for Bentley Bentley Motors Speed The chronometer-certified Calibre 25B, entirely assembled within the Breitling Chronométrie workshops, also features the world-exclusive “30-second chronograph” mechanism. A worthy heir to the 1926 Breitlingpatented invention, this amazing system is distinguished by a central hand performing a sweep of the dial in half a minute, instead of the conventional 60 seconds. It thus enables read-off to within 1/8th of a second. The Bentley Motors Speed chronograph is available in a steel version, as well as in a red gold limited series of 500, with a choice of metal bracelet or a leather, crocodile leather or rubber strap. The dials come in a fine selection of refined colours evoking the Bentley liveries. Price (steel case with rubber strap): HK$65,900

Bulgari Bulgari Moon The “Bulgari Bulgari” collection, icon of the Bulgari watch line, is updated with a new model for women. In this exclusive version, the 38 mm case has a characteristically linear and contemporary design that renders this precious timepiece unmistakable. The white mother-of-pearl dial is embellished with diamond pavé and hand-mounted markers. The white alligator skin strap has a folding steel buckle. Water resistant up to a depth of 30 meters, it features an automatic B77 Calibre mechanical movement with a 42-hour power reserve. It also marks the phases of the moon and is embellished by Côte de Genève and Perlage treatments.

David Yurman Belmont Shadow Limited Edition 41mm Limited to 10 units. This is a black corded guilloche dial wonder with black subdials and numerals and indexes with clear superluminova (glow blue in the dark). It has a date-window, black skeleton hands, stainless steel case with antireflective sapphire crystal, and exhibition case back. The bracelet is made of black steel black diamond pave. Price: US$50,000


J 12 Noir Intense – a re-design of its J 12 collection, the Intense Noir was created in partnership with Audemars Piguet watch making manufacturer. The bracelet is in 18K white gold set with 502 insets in baguettecut ceramic and the dial is also in 18K gold set with 96 insets baguette-cut ceramic.

Chopard

Maitres du Temps

Haute Joaillerie Watch

Chapter Two – Big Date Triple Calendar

An exquisite watch with square pavé-set diamond dial and frame within a “secret” case composed of brilliant, square and baguettecut diamonds for a total weight of 19 carats on the white satin strap and deployant baguette-cut diamond clasp. Price: MOP 3,740,000

This piece of haute horlogerie features an instantaneous big date triple calendar that, thanks to innovative roller indications and the unparalleled experience of the master watchmakers involved, is considered as one of the world’s most legible calendar mechanical wristwatches, as well as the world’s first unabbreviated triple calendar mechanical wristwatch. Chapter Two also features central hours and minutes indicated by elegant diamond-cut, solid gold hands, sub-seconds at 6 o’clock, big date at 12 o’clock, and the day and month spelled out in full on their respective rollers. The combination of a big date and full text for the days and months confers upon Chapter Two a legibility unprecedented in a triple calendar wristwatch. Price: US$65,000 to US$66,500 Available at the Wynn Macau

Vacheron Constantin Lady Kalla Flame and Kalla Haute Couture à Secret Both models are set with Vacheron Constantion new flame cut diamond, a cut presented as its 2009 major novelty. Both models are entirely hand-made and exceptionally supple. A technique known as emmaillement, reduces the material to a minimum so that the flame cut diamonds cover the whole piece, including the clasp. The two timepieces are equipped with a manual-winding 1005 calibre with the crown positioned on the back of the movement.

Lady Kalla Flame- evokes the iconic Lady Kalla launched in 1982. This timepiece is brought to life by the brilliance of its 200 diamonds. The case dressed in white gold and embracing a diamond-set dial, echoes the flame shape of the gems. The bracelet is a natural extension of the case with its dancing cortège of precious stones.

Kalla Haute Couture à Secret – it shows 28 flame cut diamonds (totalling 20 carats) and a diamond-paved dial lies concealed. The timepiece’s slender silhouette extends in two fine lines of 120 diamonds and, like a ribbon, encircles the wrist. It is like a piece of Haute Couture on you wrist!

Chanel Première Collection Chanel Première collection, one of the most successful models of the French fashion house, updated the model by showing in BaselWorld its Première set with 589 diamonds for a total weight of 3.5 carats. The watchcase itself is set with 52 diamonds and the dial is paved with 113 diamonds. It is more of a jewel than a watch. The Première watches in steel also features diamonds.

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Jewels

What makes jewels the objects of wonder, is the way they ooze class and perfection. Reaching this zenith of beauty is no easy task and craftsmanship is the key. Take a good look at the sparkles you see all around and you’ll realise that traditional values and creativity also make a strong statement. The expression ‘jewel in the crown’ doesn’t exist for no reason, in times of crisis they remain a safe haven as an investment, and hey, when they come from that special someone, they’re priceless.

David Yurman X Collection Launched in Basel, it is executed in sterling silver combined with 18K gold, all 18K gold and 18K gold with diamonds. The collection includes cuffs, earrings and rings.

Louis Vuitton Toy Charms The very latest of LV collection presents little charms made of gold, sapphires and pearls. Little wonders that will keep you thinking about your childhood. Created by Lorenz Baumer for Louis Vuitton, the eight pendants from the collection are to be worn as lucky charms… Price: Yellow gold boy doll HK$53,000 Yellow gold ginger bread house HK$35,300 Yellow gold girl doll HK$53,000 Yellow gold baby rattle HK$27,100

Dior This summer Dior jewellery is all about colours and fun.

Chopard Multi-Gem and Diamond Floral Necklace The roses are composed of 14 carats of pink sapphires, rubies (10 carats) and 316 diamonds along with their stalks set with 2’834 tsavorites (65 carats).

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Tiffany & Co New York Icon Charm Bracelet Price: MOP$ 572,000

Cartier 2009 High Jewellery Connoisseur Under the artistic directions of the Cartier jewellery atelier in Paris, Chimera and Dragon, the two fantasy creatures that exist in the ancient mythological worlds of the East and the West, come to life again. They summon the dormant magic inside the precious gemstones and evoke their blinding light from within. Thus is the revival of myths. Thus is the coming of a flourishing age.

Bulgari Save The Children’s “Rewrite the Future” campaign As part of the initiatives scheduled for 2009 to celebrate the 125th anniversary of its foundation, Bulgari has chosen to support the “Rewrite the Future” campaign of Save the Children, the largest independent international organisation for the defense and championing of children’s rights, present in over 100 countries around the world. Through the “Rewrite the Future” campaign, Save the Children is committed to providing quality education to 8 million children living in conflict-affected areas by 2010. Bulgari has decided to make its own contribution to Save the Children with the objective of raising over US$10 million by the end of 2009. One of the major initiatives – and a tribute to the silversmith origins of Sotirio Bulgari, the company’s founder – is a silver ring specially created for the campaign and featuring the Save the Children logo engraved inside. The ring will be on sale from 1 February to 31 December 2009 in all Bulgari stores at the price of HK$2,600 of which 20% will be donated to the campaign. Photographer Fabrizio Ferri created portraits of the numerous stage, screen and music stars who have taken part in the campaign including Isabella Rosellini, Jason Lewis, and Ronaldinho. These portraits will be revealed in Hong Kong at a special exhibition that will be held at the atrium of The Landmark from June 5th to June 11th with a cocktail event on the evening of June 5th to celebrate the opening of the exhibition.

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Baffa Diamond - Rock crystal, not a real diamond.

Emerald Cut: Rectangular or square step-cut stone with diagonally cut corners and two, three or four rows of facets parallel to the girdle on the crown and pavilion. Carat: The standard unit of weight, not size, used for gemstones. One carat is equal to 0.200 grams.

BLING

Bling? Yes? No? Too much? Maybe? Where do you draw the line? We’ll let you decide: which are jewels, master pieces or absolute trash? It’s an unfair question, we know, but one you’ll enjoy answering. Just ask yourself, would you pay top dollar for them?

Diamond: A mineral composed essentially

of pure carbon crystallized at extremely high temperatures and pressures, formed many miles below the earth’s surface millions of years ago. Belonging to the cubic, or isometric crystal system, a diamond is the hardest of all known natural substances.

Electroplating: The process by which one

metal is coated with another metal using electricity. In jewellery, inexpensive metals are frequently electroplated with more expensive metals, like gold (gold plating), copper (electro-coppering), rhodium (rhodanizing), chromium (chromium plating), or silver (silver plating).

4 C’s: The popular and overly simple four

factors—cut, clarity, colour and carat weight—that are commonly used to determine the value of a diamond.

Graduated: A graduated necklace of beads or

pearls has beads that go from a small size at the back of the neck, gradually increasing in size to a maximum in the front of the necklace.

Jade: A semi-precious stone that ranges in color from green to white, to lilac to brown and almost black. Translucent jade is more highly valued than opaque jade. Stones with imperfections are often carved (the imperfections are simply carved away). Two different minerals are known as jade: jadeite and nephrite. Jadeite is the harder of the two and is usually used in jewellery production. Nephrite is slightly softer, often veined and is used in carvings, for making beautiful bowls and vases. Lapis Lazuli: A rich blue opaque, semi-precious stone that has been used in jewellery since ancient times. Ground-up lapis lazuli was once used as a pigment for oil paintings. It is often dyed to deepen and improve its colour. Rock Crystal: A transparent, crystalline mineral, which is the purest form of quartz and a semiprecious stone. Mother-of-Pearl: The iridescent coating

on the inside of oyster shells. It is used, among other things, for jewellery and buttons.

Sterling: Sterling is silver with a fineness of 925, i.e. sterling is 925 parts per thousand (or 92.5 percent) silver and 75 parts per thousand (or 7.5 percent) copper (the copper increases the silver’s hardness). Sterling is quite malleable. Tahitian Pearl: Also called black pearls, these

are dark-coloured pearls produced by the large, blacklipped pearl oyster Pinctada margaritifera (also called the Tahitian black pearl oyster), a mollusk found in the tropical Indo-Pacific Ocean. Black pearls come in many colors, body shades and overtone tints including gray (light gray to almost black), peacock green (especially valuable), aubergine (eggplant), and deep brown.

Zircon: Zircon silicate is a lustrous gemstone that

comes in colours ranging from golden brown to red to violet to blue. Pure zircon is colorless, but most zircon stones are brown. The stones can be heat-treated to become blue or colorless; sometimes, heat-treated stones revert to their original color. Clear zircon is sometimes sold (intentionally or otherwise) as diamond.

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Human BLING

It’s a life-size cast of a 35-year-old 18th century European, male, human skull in platinum and covered with 8,601 paveset diamonds weighing 1,106.18 carats. The single, large diamond in the middle of the forehead is a 52.4 carat internally flawless, light, fancy pink, brilliant-cut diamond reportedly worth US$4.2 million alone. The piece, titled “For the Love of God” by British artist Damien Hirst, was unveiled with a US$99 million price tag. “It shows we are not going to live for ever. But it also has a feeling of victory over death,” Hirst said as the sparkling skull was introduced to the public for the first time in June 2007 at London’s White Cube gallery. Fancy Shakespeare’s Hamlet? “Alas, poor Yorick. I knew him well...”

Body BLING

The Black Diamond Fantasy Miracle Bra, introduced by Victoria’s Secret in their 2008 collection. Celebrity jeweller Martin Katz created the (then) one-of-a-kind piece set with 3,575 black diamonds, 117 one-carat round diamonds and 34 rubies, with the pièce de résistance, two lavish black diamonds totalling 100 carats. As you might have guessed, it is designed for maximum cleavage enhancement (!) and adorned with nearly 3,900 gems. The price tag, US$5 million. If that doesn’t pack enough bling punch, we recommend checking out Susan Rosen’s US$30 million diamond bikini made up of over 150 carats of D flawless diamonds - the best in the world. A 51carat flawless pear-shaped diamond covers the pubis and a pair of 8 carat flawless pear-shaped diamonds the mamilla. Now, the question is: what does undressing such a piece entail?..


Automatic winding (or self-

winding): This term refers to a watch with a mechanical movement (as opposed to a quartz or electrical movement). The watch is wound by the motion of the wearer’s arm rather than through turning the winding stem. A rotor that turns in response to motion winds the watch’s main spring. If an automatic watch is not worn for a day or two, it will wind down and need to be wound by hand to get it started again.

Chronometer: Technically speaking, all Feet BLING

You might think we’re talking about shoes but we’re not. Well, actually we are, but not just any shoes, these are Stuart Weitzman’s. If you’re not familiar with his name this is as good a time as any to be introduced to the designer genius of the broadwalk, and the man behind the three most expensive pairs of shoes ever made - and fashion items in themselves (www.stuartweitzman. com). A measly US$1.6 million will get you an entry bid for the third placed pair, a remake of his already acclaimed “Ruby Slippers”, sporting 642 round and oval rubies totalling some 120 carats, set in pure woven platinum on 4.5 inch, red satin stilettos. Stepping up the bar, and trading fairy tales, a cool two mill and you can try his “Cinderella Slippers” with 4.5 inch stiletto heels set with 595 carats of platinum-set Kwiat diamonds. But the jewels of the crown are arguably Stuart Weitzman’s “Rita Hayworth Heels”, priced at US$3 million. The “centerpieces” of the shoes are diamond and precious gemstone earrings from the estate of late 40’s movie siren Rita Hayworth, which now belong to Hayworth’s daughter, Princess Yasmin Aga Khan. We only ask, are Macau’s cobble stone footpaths ideal for sporting these beauties?

Phone BLING

Anyone mildly metro is sporting an iPhone these days. But as with everything else, not all iPhones are equally blinged. Take the “King’s Button” from Austrian jeweler Peter Aloisson, made of solid 18 carat, yellow gold, white gold and rose gold, sporting 138 diamonds and, to top it all off, a massive 6.6 carat diamond for the home button. What we would really, really, like to know is if you’re ever going to call us back from that US$2.5 million ‘communicator’.

watches are chronometers. But for a Swiss made watch to be called a chronometer, it must meet certain very high standards set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (C.O.S.C.). If you have a Swiss watch labeled as a chronometer, you can be certain that it has a mechanical movement of the very highest quality.

Complications: One or more features

added to a watch in addition to its usual timetelling functions, which normally not only include the hours, minutes and seconds but also date and often the day of the week. Complications include such functions as perpetual calendars, moon phase displays, alarms, repeating mechanisms, quarter strikes as well as stop/start chronograph functions. Power reserve indicators are also usually regarded as ‘complications’.

Grande complications: The most complex of mechanical watches featuring an abundance of complications. The term is normally restricted to mechanical watches. Quartz watches with additional features are usually described as ‘multi-functional’. Cosmograph: The cosmograph differs to

the chronograph in that the tachymeter is on the bezel rather than on the outer rim of the dial. This was invented by Rolex to create a more modern look to the watch.

Kinetic: Refers to the Seiko line of Kinetic

watches. This innovative technology has a quartz movement that does not use a battery. Movement of your wrist charges a very efficient capacitor which powers the quartz movement. Once the capacitor is fully charged, models for men will store energy for 724 days without being worn. Ladies models store energy for 3-7 days.

Moon phase display: A graphic display using a specially shaped aperture in the dial to indicate the phase of the moon, i.e. full, new or somewhere in between. Very popular in the 90’s but losing favour nowadays. Sapphire crystal: A crystal made

of synthetic sapphire, a transparent, shatterresistant, scratch-resistant substance.

Swiss made: As a part of a move towards

greater consumer protection and in order to combat fakes in the Far East that claim to be Swiss made, the Swiss federal council in 1993 laid down the standards that a watch has to satisfy before it can be described as Swiss made. The movement must be of Swiss origin, and must contain at least 50 percent Swiss parts. The watch must be cased in Switzerland and pass its final inspection in that country.

Tourbillon: A device invented by Breguet in 1801 in which the escapement is mounted in a small revolving cage as a means of overcoming the effects of gravity on the precision of a mechanical timepiece.

103


Shinies Audemars Piguet

for every occasion

V

Boucheron

V

Breil

V

Butani

V

4S

Bvlgari

W

V

Caran d’Ache

V

CARAT*

V

Carl F. Bucherer

V

Cartier

4S

Chanel

4S

Charriol

V

4S

V

Dior

4S

Christian Dior

4S

W

Damiani

4S

Debeers

4S

Diamond SA

4S

V

ENZO

V

Franck Muller

V

Glashütte Original

V

Grossé

V

W

Hatta Fine Jewellery

V

Hearts On Fire

V

Hublot

V

IWC

4S

V

Jaeger-LeCoultre

V

Jaquet Droz

V

KEGO

V

4S

LOANG & NOI Louis Vuitton

4S

V

W

Luk Fook Jewellery

V

MIKIMOTO

V

Montblanc

V

Omega

4S

V

Panerai

V

Piaget

V

W

Rado

V

Richard Mille

V

S.T Dupont

V

Shamwari

4S

V

Shimansky

4S

V

Swarovski

4S

V

TAG

4S

TASAKI

V

Tiffany & Co.

V

W

Tissot

V

Tourneau

V

Vacheron Constatin

4S

Van Cleef & Arpels

4S

Vertu

| | | |

M

M

W W

ZYDO Italy 4S W V M

M

V

David Yurman

4S

M

W

Chopard

Kiehl’s

Shoppes | listing of luxury shopping arcades

4S

Blancpain

Gucci

Next month look for

V V

The Shoppes at the Four Seasons Esplanade at Wynn Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian Mandarin Oriental

New Yaohan Department Store (853) 2872 5338 www.newyaohan.com The Shoppes at the Four Seasons (853) 8117 7800 www.shoppesatfourseasons.com The Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian (853) 2882 8888 www.venetianmacao.com Esplanade at Wynn (853) 2888 9966 www.wynnmacau.com Mandarin Oriental (853) 8793 3261 www.mandarinoriental.com/macau

Cruise control pick up sites for your next sweet ride Alfa Romeo (852) 23056128 Audi (853) 28703383 Bentley (853) 28703383 BMW (Macau) (853) 87976119 Ferrari (852) 28739233 Ford Hong Kong (852) 28147286 Harper’s (853) 28768975 Jaguar (853) 28316338 Maseratti (852) 28739238 Maybach (852) 25948138 Mazda (853) 28316338 Mercedes- Benz (853) 28831283 Mini (853) 87976112 Porsche (852) 29262208 Volkswagen (853) 28703383 Volvo (853) 28703383

Blueprint to the best design in town Blue Bar (853) 2881 8888 Cubic (852) 2828 6696 Roka (853) 28825666 Rossio (853) 8802 3888 Veuve Clicquot Lounge (853) 8802 3888

à la carte Rolodex of whereto-eat-and-spend Aux Beaux Arts (853) 8802 8888 Camões (853) 2872 8818 Canton (853) 8118 9930 Clube Militar de Macau (853) 2871 4000 Don Alfonso Macau 1890 (853) 8803 7722 Fernando’s (853) 2888 2264 il Teatro (853) 8986 3648 Imperial Court (853) 8802 8888 Inagiku (853) 2838 3838 Kira (853) 2886 8868 Kwun Hoi Heen (853) 2887 1111 La Paloma (853) 2837 8111 Morton’s of Chicago (853) 8117 5000 NaaM Thai Restaurant (853) 8793 4818 New Furusato (853) 2888 3888 Okada (853) 8986 3668 Portas do Sol (853) 2888 3888 Red 8 (853) 8986 3663 Rossio (853) 8802 8888 Square 8 (853) 8802 8888 Tenmasa (853) 8803 6611 Tim’s Kitchen (853) 2828 3838 The Eight (853) 2828 3838 Robuchon a Galera (853) 2837 7666 ROKA (853) 2882 5666 Ying (853) 2888 0156

Wines, Spirits & Cigars Spas | indulging pleasures Chang Chun Massage Centre Rua Coelho Amaral, 1 D, Edf. Lai Hou phase 2, 1L, Macau (853) 2895 5822 The Spa @ Crown Macau Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau (853) 2886 8888 The Spa @ The Four Seasons Macau Estrada da N. Senhora da Baía, Taipa, Macau (853) 2881 8888 Six Senses Spa @ MGM Grand Macau Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Macau (853) 8802 3838 Nirvana Spa China Law Building 403 Avenida da Praia Grande, Macau (853) 2833 1521 Su Sek Massage Centre Mei lai Kok Building Macau Stadium Roundabout, Taipa, Macau (853) 2884 0039 V Spa @ The Venetian Macao Estrada da Nossa Senhora da Baía, Taipa, Macau (853) 2882 8882 Wong Chio Massage Centre Edf. Kin Heng Long 264 Alameda Dr. Carlos D’Assumpção, Macau (853) 2875 0332 The Spa @ Wynn Macau Rua Cidade de Sintra, Macau (853) 8986 3228

Enhance | the beauty within Cle de Peau / Shiseido cledepeau-beaute.com (available @ New Yaohan, Canal Shoppes) Crème de la Mer cremedelamer.co.uk (available @ New Yaohan, DFS) Estèe Lauder esteelauder.com (available @ DFS, New Yaohan) Giorgio Armani giorgioarmani.com (available @ New Yaohan) Hommage hommage.com (available @ Wynn Macau) Kiehl’s kiehls.com (available @ New Yaohan, Canal Shoppes) Lancôme lancome.com (available @ New Yaohan, DFS) La Prairie laprairie.com (available @ DFS) Natura Bissè naturabisse.es (available @ The Four Seasons ) Sisley sisley.com (available @ Canal Shoppes, New Yaohan)

Essential N07  

Macau Business | Lifestyle Supplement | Watches & Jewellery | June 2009

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