ISSUE 16 - JAN – APRIL 2020 by Lyn G

TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA &

ZIMBABWE JANUARY–APRIL 2020 | EDITION 16

Tusk Wildlife Ranger Award Winner 2019

BENSON KANYEMBO

South Luangwa

ON A BUDGET

GONAREZHOU Zimbabwe's Conservation Success Story

THE BUSANGA PLAINS The Kafue National Park

JEFFERY

M KEITH

S A FA R I S - Z A M B I A

Ò...tHE REAL AFRICA IS HARD TO FIND, BUT IF YOU WISH TO FIND IT, IT IS WITHIN AND AROUND THIS WONDERFUL PLACE...Ó - JOE, CORK

In the heart of a pristine wilderness area lies two of ZambiaÕs most authentic bush camps NTEMWA BUSANGA & MUSEKESE CAMP. With just four tents each they are the perfect way to experience the incredible variety of wildlife and activities in the Kafue National Park, ZambiaÕs oldest and largest, and home to almost 500 species of bird and a staggering array of mammals. Explore this epic wilderness on foot, by boat or in comfortable game drive vehicles. Contact us for details and a tailor-made safari experience like no other. Musekese Camp; 1st June - 30th November Ntemwa-Busanga Camp; 1st July - 31st October

w: jefferymckeith.com / e: info@jefferymckeith.com / t: +26 0974 173403

TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA &

ZIMBABWE MAY–AUGUST 2019 | EDITION 14

JANUARY–APRIL 2020

Features Shongwe Lookout Guest Lodge Shongwe Lookout

There's A Leopard In The Lounge Sarah Kingdom

Emma Seaman: People And Places Leelee Ngwenya

The Busanga Plains 09 Sarah Kingdom

Benson Kanyembo 16 Thandiwe Mweetwa

Lusaka Collective 21 Lusaka Collective The Wild Sourplum 22 Annabel Hughes Aston

Advertisers' Index IFC 01 02 03 05 13 13 14 15 19 23 24 25 26 & 27 29 38 40 42 43 52 IBC BC

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

The Victoria Falls Hotel Jeffery & McKeith Safaris Fawlty Towers Muddy Paws Travel Procharter Kaingu Safari Lodge Malawian Style Kafunta Safaris SkyTrails People and Places Ad-dicts Advertising Moringa Initiative Ltd Proflight Green Safaris Edward Selfe Photo Safaris African Conservation Travel Machaba Safaris Banff Lodge WTM Africa The Safari Trading Co. The Bayete Collection Lilayi Lodge

Highlights From Photo Safaris Edward Selfe

South Luangwa On A Budget Jamie Small

A Bright Future For Matusdona National Park Shelley Cox

Young Zambians Dreaming Big And Making A Difference Julie Bates

Gonarezhou: Zimbabwe's Conservation Success Story Shelley Cox

Five Minutes With Nono Andrew Muswala

Marvellous Mana 44 Sarah Kingdom Cruising In Paradise 46 Sally Wynn Wines Of South Africa Farai Chimba

Zimbabwe's Matobo Hills 50 Bettina Koehler

TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA &

ZIMBABWE MAY–AUGUST 2019 | EDITION 14

Publisher Safari Magazine

Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala kwisanoent@gmail.com Sub-Editor Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson nicky.dj@sky.com Layout & Art Director Gemma Beardsall gemmakb@hotmail.co.uk Consultant Jo Pope popejo@gmail.com

Website www.zambiatravelmagazine.com Subscriptions kwisanoent@gmail.com +260 977 308 711

Contributors Thandiwe Mweetwa, Conservation South Luangwa, Sarah Kingdom, Mukambi Safari Lodge, Joanne Hedger, Annabel Hughes Aston, Francois d’Elbee, Talitha Ullrich, Jeffery and McKeith Safaris, Leelee Ngwenya, People and Places, Edward Selfe, Julie Bates, Shutter Speed Pictures, Jamie Small, Luwi Nguluka, Shelley Cox, Mana Meadows, Africa Conservation Travel, Gonarezhou Conservation Trust, African Bush Camps, Bettina Koehler, Shongwe Lookout, Shaun McMinn, Sally Wynn, Wild Zambezi, Farai Chimba, Adam Vallance, Aurélien Langlais Submissions We welcome editorial and photographic submissions to the magazine. Accompanying images should be sent in high-res jpg and minimum 3MB in size. Please send a synopsis of the proposed article to kwisanoent@gmail.com for consideration. Printers New Horizon Printing Press Plot # LUS/9815/H Kafue Road, Lusaka, Zambia

Copyright Copyright © All rights for material appearing in this magazine belong to Travel & Leisure Zambia and/or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or without due acknowledgement.

A WORD FROM THE MD Welcome to the 16th edition of Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe magazine, our first of 2020.

With today’s traveller exploring ever more destinations around the world, Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe magazine is an international voice that champions Zambia and Zimbabwe’s attractions in a balanced way.

By raising awareness of Zambia and Zimbabwe’s attractions, we hope our magazine might change readers’ misconceptions about Zambia and Zimbabwe and encourage everyone to play their part—by travelling to some of Zambia and Zimbabwe’s amazing destinations. In so doing, we will all be supporting conservation efforts through tourism.

Our mission at Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe magazine is to enhance the exposure of these outstanding products and

assist people with accurate information to help them visit Zambia and Zimbabwe.

In this issue, we explore the Busanga Plains (p 9) and Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National Park (p 34). These two destinations are relatively unexplored but they have great appeal and can benefit immensely from tourism. Elsewhere in this edition, we visit Marvellous Mana (p 44) and talk to Benson Kanyembo, a very special Zambian (p 16). We also feature stories on A Guys’ Trip Through Zimbabwe’s Matobo Hills (p 50), how to enjoy South Luangwa On A Budget (p 32) and we encourage you to have a wonderful time Cruising In Paradise On Lake Kariba (p 46). HAPPY READING!

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On the cover

Roan antelope in the Busanga Plains Photo credit: Edward Selfe Photo Safaris

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SHONGWE LOOKOUT GUEST LODGE

Writer: Shongwe Lookout Photography: Shaun McMinn

ictoria Falls, Zimbabwe is booming. Not only are tourists flooding back, but so are young Zimbabwean tourism operators who have lived and worked overseas. These youngsters bring with them fresh ideas and an innate understanding of what the New World traveller expects. They know the taste of a perfect latte and a well-matured Syrah. They are well versed in modern design trends and the expectations of discerning travellers. Meet two of these youngsters, Jamie and Narelle Henson, who recently arrived from New Zealand (NZ) to craft Victoria Falls’ newest diamond: Shongwe Lookout Guest Lodge. Jamie is a native-born Zimbabwean who has been living in NZ for 15 years and returned in August, 2018, with his Kiwi wife to a hopeful Zimbabwe. Their aim was to design and build a world-class lodge that presented authentic African décor with all the First World comforts.

‘We wanted to set a new standard of excellence in Vic Falls. We put a huge amount of thought into every detail, from the baobab-infused craft gin behind the bar to mosaic tiled showers and even the leather handles on the bedside tables,’ explains Jamie. They worked closely with a young local Zimbabwean designer, Amanda West, of InArc Design to express intricately the flair of African décor in a contemporary context.

‘We actually did not appoint our staff on experience; we picked them on primarily on friendliness. Experience can be gained, and skills can be learned quickly, but friendliness is hard to train. As it was, having most of our staff with little or no experience meant that we could train them to the highest standards before opening,’ Jamie points out.

The ‘Oh, wow!’ moment doesn’t just happen upon entrance. There is another distinct ‘Oh, wow!’ moment when one reaches the top deck of the four-storey lookout tower. The sweeping views of the Zambezi Valley and beyond are simply breathtaking. The sunlight dances on the sleepy upper Zambezi; some days you can see thunder clouds build with lightning flickering against brooding deep blue skies. To the east rises the spray from the Falls, called ‘Shongwe’ in the local language, and from this was derived the name ‘Shongwe Lookout’. The rooftop bar has a dumb waiter pulley system that brings up your drinks. You can sit at the infinity bar or relax on one of the built-in loungers. Don’t miss sundowners up the tower, and if you’re an early riser order a barista coffee and get up there for sunrise.

And that brings us to the next ‘Oh, wow!’ experience: the coffee. Jamie and Narelle brought back a love for good coffee. ‘Reading the reviews from travellers throughout the region, we noticed plenty of complaints about coffee. We were determined to put an end to this,’ says Jamie. Shongwe Lookout joined forces with a Cape Town-trained roaster—another young Zimbabwean, Danie Grobler, who had ‘We wanted something returned to bring good completely different to what coffee to his homeland. Vic Falls had on offer; we ‘We were immediately wanted to break from the impressed with Danie’s standard colonial look, or that generic hotel room look. coffee roast: Mushe Coffee Company. He shared our We were looking for something intimate, unique and vision to raise the standard of coffee in the region. fun. We were looking for the “wow” factor,’ Jamie says. Being good enough isn’t good enough—it needs to InArc Design took the idea and clearly knocked it be exceptional.’ The brand-new San Remo espresso out of the park. They brought in the best machine coupled with excellent beans leaves every Zimbabwean artisans and made use of local coffee-loving guest enjoying superb coffee. materials wherever possible. ‘We’re proud to have sourced so much from our region, and we are so Finally, the cherry on top to the Shongwe amazed at the incredible talent of our local artisans,’ experience is the food. Jamie and Narelle decided Jamie enthuses. to invest in good chefs (also Cape Town-trained), and also youngsters who have returned home with The lodge is a showcase of this local brilliance. From a drive to raise the bar. ‘Food is such a big part of a the Zimbabwean granite bench tops to the teak holiday experience; we can’t afford to offer the stock joinery, the hand-made mosaic tiles, the sisal mats, standard—bacon and baked beans don’t cut it for the Gwaai pots and the Matobo woven baskets it is breakfast anymore. Guests want Eggs Benedict and certainly a colourful celebration of Zimbabwe’s raw smoked trout omelettes,’ Jamie maintains. The chefs talent. have free rein to cook whatever they like for lunch and dinner each day. The menu, small but enticing, Open now since June, 2019, Shongwe Lookout has is set on the blackboard every morning. ‘One of certainly been serving up the ‘wow’ factor. ‘It gives our core values is innovation. We want our chefs to me such a buzz when guests walk through our gate experiment; to play around with local ingredients. and you hear that delightful phrase, “Oh, wow!”’ They are creative people and we don’t want to stifle Jamie comments proudly. While first impressions that!’ The feedback on the kitchen has been nothing matter, lasting impressions matter even more. As less than extraordinary. owner-operators, Jamie and Narelle take good service personally. ‘We know our guests by name Shongwe Lookout is a ‘must’ for visitors to the Falls. and we like to make them feel part of the Shongwe Set in the quiet suburbs amidst the most stunning family.’ It just takes a brief look at Shongwe’s tropical gardens, it is a diamond and a welcome five-star TripAdvisor reviews to realise that good addition to the town’s hospitality offerings. service is an absolute priority.

www.shongwelookout.com

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

THE BUSANGA PLAINS

Kafue National Park

Writer: Sarah Kingdom Photography: Joanne Hedger, Mukambi Safari Lodge

afue National Park is the oldest park in Zambia and one of the largest in all of Africa. It is relatively untouched by development and remains a pristine wilderness with sublime scenery, fantastic game viewing and impressive bird watching.

In the far north of the park, the Lufupa River flows into the Busanga Swamps. During the rains, this floods out over the adjacent plains. The Busanga Plains are the jewel of Kafue National Park—a vast mosaic of grassy seasonal floodplains stretching to the horizon. These 720-square-kilometre floodplains are dotted with palm groves, papyrus-choked reed beds, lily-covered lagoons, broad-leaved woodlands, open waterways and riverine vegetation. The plains drain after the rainy season and attract large numbers of game and fantastic birdlife…undoubtedly the best place for wildlife viewing in Kafue.

pods of hippo, extensive red lechwe populations, blue wildebeest, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, defassa waterbuck, roan and sable antelope and the rare oribi as well as some of the largest herds of buffalo in the park, often numbering into the hundreds. Due to such a wealth of plains game, predator numbers are also strong, with large prides of lion a highlight of the region.

Being submerged for most of the year these flooded plains are a magnet for birds. Water, islands of fig trees and floodplains make for superb birding and more than 500 bird species have been recorded here. Ross’s and Schalow’s turacos, red-throated twinspot, brown firefinch, sooty chat, the rare rosy-throated (also known as the pink-throated or rosy-breasted) longclaw, countless herons amongst the large flocks of open-billed and yellow-billed storks, as well as rare wattled cranes and endemic Zambian barbet (Chaplin’s barbet) can all be seen.

We were at Plains Camp, the seasonal, beautiful bush camp of Mukambi A wide variety of species is found here, Safaris located in the north of the including large numbers of elephant, Busanga Plains. The camp overlooks

the open plains, only interrupted by tree- studded islands, where fig trees and wild date palms draw their nutrients from the remains of giant anthills. Our favourite part of camp was a wooden viewing platform on stilts tucked away high up in a fantastic fig tree, with breathtaking views out onto the floodplain. The sky was alight with fires the nights we were there, most likely ignited by poachers or fishermen, and from our vantage point we were mesmerised as the flames made their way across the plains, burnishing the sky brilliant orange. In the morning mist, as the sun started to peep above the horizon, the plains were liberally dotted with herds of red lechwe of various ages and sizes, from new-borns to a couple of onehorned, battle-scarred grandparents. Many of the herds numbered in their hundreds. Amongst these herds there was a sprinkling of wattled and crowned cranes, many with young in attendance. Wattled cranes, with their sharp, slim beaks and slender legs, are the largest cranes in Africa and the tallest flying bird on the continent. Listed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List, wattled cranes are often found with lechwe on the Busanga Plains. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Kafue National Park

Crowned cranes, with their crowns of stiff gold feathers, are regularly seen on the plains. Standing about a metre tall and with a wingspan of around two metres, these cranes are omnivores, eating anything from plants and seeds to frogs, small fish and even snakes. Stamping their feet as they walk, they flush out insects which they quickly catch and eat. They capitalise on feeding near the red lechwe by darting in and grabbing prey that have been disturbed by the antelopes’ movements. Crowned cranes’ entire days are spent looking for food, but at night they roost in trees. These are the only cranes that can roost in trees, because they have a long hind toe for grasping branches.

goliath heron stood sentinel in a lagoon as Egyptian geese nibbled at the green grass in the shallows. A pied kingfisher, with its black mask, hovered, wings moving frantically, before diving vertically into the water...time and time again. A procession of buffalo, over 1,000 strong, stretched out for kilometres across the plains like a string of black pearls.

by the eerie cries of the crowned cranes piercing the night sky as they settled in the tree tops and darkness descended over the plains.

We didn’t have to head out of camp to find wildlife. At Ntemwa we not only heard hyenas calling in the night, but whilst we were safely tucked up in our beds one came into camp, thoroughly checking out what Moving on, we headed for the southernmost was on the menu in the kitchen, before edges of the plains, to Ntemwa-Busanga fortunately leaving ‘empty handed’! One Camp, a rustic bush camp of safari tents morning we found a trail of lion footprints with open-air en suite bathrooms, each pressed into the sand on our path as we complete with the traditional safari bucket headed from our tent to breakfast. Clearly showers. Zambia is one of few places where there was a reason we were always escorted night drives are permitted and Ntemwa to our tents at night. has access to a wide network of roads that As the sun rose in the sky we found a family cover the expanse of the plains. Late The Busanga Plains are one of those special of eight lions: two females with their six afternoon and night drives were terrific places—areas of low-density tourism in a cubs. The cubs were intensely curious, world where many remote places are here. Watching an idyllic scene of Egyptian coming in close, sniffing the wheels and becoming indiscriminately overrun by geese, storks, cranes and various other travellers. Due to its remoteness, water birds at a lagoon as the sun went then stretching out to relax in the shade inaccessibility and few accommodation cast by the vehicle. One youngster, clearly a down was a beautiful end to the day. As little bored, took hold of a large round ball night descended we saw a selection of options, it’s fortunately likely to remain that of elephant poo in his mouth and carried it nocturnal creatures on our drive, from way. off to play with it. Despite his best efforts he white-tailed mongoose rummaging in the couldn’t interest anyone else in the game. undergrowth, to genets whose eyes Afternoon on the Busanga Plains, and a reflected in the spotlight, all accompanied

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Kafue National Park

Plains Cam p: www.muk ambi.com

Ntemwa-B usanga Camp: www.jeffe rymckeith .com TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Kafue National Park

THERE’S A LEOPARD IN THE

Lounge...

estled under a stand of riverine trees, overlooking an immense dambo (shallow wetland) on the eastern banks of the Kafue River in Zambia’s Kafue National Park, is Musekese Camp. Sitting by the open fire one night, predinner chatter was interrupted by a gruff cough, like one might expect from a butler announcing dinner was served. This was no butler however—this was a leopard making her presence known as she passed by in the shadows.

The next night, heading back to camp after a game drive, we were stopped in our tracks by a leopard who was using the road as a convenient walkway and pausing occasionally to sniff the air. Not wanting to disturb him, we sat in the vehicle. Shortly he set off again, sauntering down the road looking for another, more auspicious, place to lie in wait. Switching off the engine again we sat in the dark. Puku nearby got wind of the leopard’s presence and started making tentative alarm calls. Suddenly another, much larger male leopard come trotting Writer: Sarah Kingdom Photography: Jeffery and McKeith Safaris

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

down the track towards us. Leopard number one, being both younger and smaller, looked nervous and turning tail he headed towards us. Pausing as he passed our vehicle, he was close enough to touch. The new male also continued towards us. Stopping as he reached the vehicle, he gave us a good look over before continuing into the dark. Shortly after we left Musekese, another leopard started making his presence known in camp; a young male, born close to camp. The youngster was still fairly dependant on his mother, who seemed comfortable leaving him in camp while out hunting most nights. This was clearly a case of ‘while the cat’s away…’ as the youngster started making nightly visits to camp. Camp staff saw footprints, heard alarm calls and the occasional growl. Mother and son then killed and ate a puku in the lodge car park. Soon there were reports of the young leopard walking by staff tents after dark, in front of camp during lunch, and even one morning, climbing a tree where he lay watching guests breakfasting. And, becoming even more adventurous, he had a ‘midnight

munch’ on shoes left outside the lodge manager’s tent!

But his playfulness reached new heights when, left to his own devices after dark, he turned the lodge lounge area into his personal playroom. Richard, the camp waiter, found the cub in the lounge one evening, after guests had gone to bed. A camera trap was installed to see what he was getting up to. The following morning the area was a shambles and after investigating the camera footage, all was revealed. The night-time partier had left a line of footprints along the bar, rifled through reading material and redistributed ornaments, before finally trying the sofas for comfort, rearranging blankets, chewing on cushions and taking a ‘cat nap’. Winter nights grew chilly and the leopard was ‘spotted’ closer to the fire at night, then taking his mischief to new ‘heights’ when he dragged a blanket from the lounge up into a tree for a snuggle! For Phil Jeffery and Tyrone McKeith, who built Musekese, their ethos is, ‘it must not only feel wild, but be wild’...well, I don’t think it gets much wilder than this.

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South Luangwa

EXPERIENCE

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BENSON KANYEMBO

Winner Of The Tusk Wildlife Ranger Award Interview: Thandiwe Mweetwa Photography: Conservation South Luangwa, Adam Vallance, Aurélien Langlais

ildlife conservation is a challenging field with men and women in the frontline usually not receiving the credit they deserve for the work they do. The Tusk Wildlife Ranger Award, which comes with a grant of £10,000, seeks to recognise the contribution of exceptional individuals who have dedicated their lives to the protection of wildlife and wild places. It is awarded by Tusk Trust, a UK-based conservation organisation, after a rigorous and highly competitive nomination process. Benson Kanyembo, the law enforcement advisor of Conservation South Luangwa, was the 2019 recipient and the award was presented to him at a ceremony in London UK in November, 2019. Thandiwe Mweetwa sat down with Benson to learn more about his lifelong service in wildlife conservation and to hear his thoughts on winning such a prestigious award.

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Tell us about yourself I was born in Kitwe but my family moved around northern Zambia a few times. It was during the time we lived in Mpika and Isoka that I saw how poaching was negatively affecting wildlife. When did you join the conservation sector? I joined North Luangwa Conservation Project as a law enforcement auxiliary scout or village scout in 1994.

What do you consider to be your greatest professional achievement? My greatest achievement was in 2003 when I became a qualified wildlife police officer under the Zambia Wildlife Authority. I underwent the rhino protection training which coincided with the reintroduction of the black rhino to North Luangwa National Park. Before that, I had been a village scout and people used to look down on us. I graduated as one of the top three students and got special mention during the graduation ceremony. This was a major door opener for me.

What is your favourite and least favourite part of your job? Being out in the field listening to birds and animals gives me a lot to think about and reaffirms my commitment to nature protection. I feel like Adam in my own Garden of Eden. The least favourite part

Benson Kanyembo receives his award from the Duke of Cambridge (Prince William), patron of Tusk Trust, at a ceremony held at the Empire Cinema, Leicester Square, London, UK

of my work is crossing dangerous rivers on foot. Sometimes I have nightmares about crossing the Luangwa at the height of the rainy season.

You recently won the prestigious Tusk Wildlife Ranger Award. What does the award mean to you? The Tusk award gives morale to all those law enforcement officers who joined the conservation field, especially village scouts who are the lowest rank. These are people that start the work from the ground up and it shows that you can make it and be recognised for your contribution to wildlife conservation. How has winning the award changed your perspective? Winning the award is a huge motivation. I am now committed to work harder, delegate more and educate as many people as I can. I need to double my efforts to groom the next generation of wildlife rangers to protect Mother Nature. Have you any advice for young professionals that are joining the wildlife conservation sector now? What they need to know from the word go is that when you join this work do not expect to get rich. You will not become a millionaire but you will be highly admired for doing the right thing. You will be harshly treated, poorly paid but deeply

respected. If you want to join because of money, you will end up just being corrupt and you will be arrested and charged.

What do you think is the future for conservation in Zambia? Right now, I think it’s fifty-fifty. Some people will pretend that they support conservation but at night they buy illegal bushmeat. A lot of people just want to make money and do not care about animals. We still have a lot to do. We need to engage every stakeholder, religious leader, learning institution and community in the conservation of our natural resources. Because this is not just about animals; it is about everything. Whatever we are doing against Mother Nature will come back to us in one way or another. Look at climate change. The effects will be felt globally for generations. What’s next for you? I still have a long way to go. You just have to look at what is happening here in the Luangwa Valley. We have to work hand in hand with all stakeholders. Our parks and natural resources are not safe.

Anything else you would like to add? The Tusk award is not just an award for Benson from Conservation South Luangwa. It is an award for everyone who supports me and the work I do. I am really grateful.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

EMMA SEAMAN: PEOPLE AND PLACES E

mma Seaman was born and raised in Zimbabwe where she attended junior and high school. She says of her childhood, ‘I come from a small family of four—my parents and my sister. I grew up in the suburbs of Harare and went to a local primary school down the road from our home. Life was very free and relaxed and I was always out and about on my bicycle, riding to and from school and around the neighbourhood.

‘At 18, when I finished my A levels, I decided to do a bit of travelling to decide what I wanted to do. I went to Australia, the Far East and eventually ended up in Dorset, England, where I spent some time working in a kennels and cattery. I also worked in the pub nearby at lunchtime and in the evening. Working in the pub is something I really enjoyed; I loved meeting new people and working with a team of people. It was there that I decided I wanted to go into hospitality—initially hotel management.’

Emma eventually returned to Zimbabwe and looked at her options. The decision was taken to begin working at a hotel with either a job or internship to see if she would enjoy it and if hotel school would be the next best step. ‘I was very fortunate that I got a job at Meikles Hotel, Harare’s leading five-star hotel. I had studied languages for A level and I got a job as one of their guest services co-ordinators because I had French and German to my advantage,’ she tells me. ‘That was where my career in hospitality was launched. I loved working in the hotel with all the different guests that I got to meet and we had many regulars that we managed to build a relationship with. In my role as guest services I managed to cross over into many other departments like Food and Beverage for various functions, assist Front Desk with check-ins if the hotel was busy and we really got an opportunity to be involved in the full hotel operation.’

Emma met her husband David while working at Meikles. He was the banqueting manager at the time, and they eventually married before moving to Victoria Falls to work at the Victoria Falls Hotel. ‘We had our first son shortly thereafter and then moved to Johannesburg in South Africa where my husband ran a small boutique hotel, The Grace at Rosebank. I had then joined a group of lodges that operated in Zambia known as Star of Africa Lodges and I was their marketing manager.’

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Writer : Leele e Photo graph Ngwenya y: Peo ple an d

Places

Living in Johannesburg was not the best fit for the family. The big city was fast paced and at the time it felt very First World and not suited to their background, coming from the slower pace of life in Zimbabwe. When the opportunity to move to Zambia presented itself, they jumped at the chance. ‘We moved to Zambia in 2004 and we have been here 13 going on 14 years,’ Emma explains. ‘I worked for Wilderness Safaris in their Lusaka head office up until 2012 when they decided to move their head office to Victoria Falls town in Zimbabwe. David and I decided that we were very happy in Lusaka and in Zambia, and it was time for me to put my dream into action and start my own business and consequently People and Places was born. We started operations in mid-2012 as a small personal tour operating business.

‘When we were starting out, we wanted to link people and places—people being the traveller, our agents and the people on the ground; the staff and the guides, people working at the camps. Places—the countries and parks that we cover, for us it is about how all of these elements are connected and create the ultimate safari experience. For me it’s not just about the safari though; it’s about getting a taste of the culture, seeing how other people live in our parts of the world and that’s a huge element. The people element is key to the overall experience—from the tour guide and local people on the ground—that makes it all possible; they make it an enriching experience.’ People and Places is Zambia-based but has a presence in its neighbouring countries in Southern Africa such as Botswana, Malawi and Zimbabwe. Emma explains the rationale: ‘Zimbabwe, because of my roots and the fact that I know the country very well. I know all the different regions and I have been working with most of the camps and service providers there since I started in hospitality. I think it’s a fantastic country that combines well with Zambia, allowing us to do multiple destination travel experiences.

‘Since moving to Zambia, we have had the opportunity to go to Malawi several times and it marries very well with Zambia in terms of logistics; we are able to move people between the two countries. Lake Malawi is a wonderful end to a safari; it’s the equivalent to a very nice beach experience but logistically so easy to access from South Luangwa. We do stand-alone trips to Malawi for people visiting Liwonde National Park, Majete Wildlife Reserve and the Nyika Plateau, to name more popular areas. Botswana is an area

that we have been growing in. This has come about from people wanting to include it as an add-on to a Zambia or Zimbabwe trip, combining it with Chobe or Okavango. We are slowly working to make Botswana a stand-alone destination and not just an add-on.’

As to what season or the best times to visit, Emma advises, ‘Traditionally, the busiest time of the year for safari is June through to November. The dry winter months of July, August and September tend to be more popular because of the UK and American school holidays. As the bush gets drier and thins out it is easier to see the animals. October is phenomenal game viewing, but it does get very hot, so we have to warn our clients. As we go into November and it starts raining it is a beautiful time of the year because the bush starts to turn green and lush and the animals start to drop their young once the rains start. We find a lot of repeat clients wanting to sample different times of the year for different experiences. The Emerald Season which is through to March/April is a beautiful green and lush season— you have lots of birdlife and new-born animals.’ She adds, ‘The Kasanka annual fruit bat migration is an amazing experience towards the end of the safari season, from October to mid-December. There is the wildebeest migration through the Liuwa Plain National Park which happens just as the rains are breaking in November and December. The wildebeest and other plains game at that time are moving back into the area from the Angolan border and they are followed by the predators. There are also huge bird migrations moving into the area as well as everything starts to bud and flourish all the way through to April/ May.’ Emma’s love of travel and safari is evident in the way she passionately describes her work with People and Places. She is definitely living the dream, doing what she loves and sharing it with others.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Writer: Luwi Nguluka—Women for Conservation, Founding Member Photography: Luwi Nguluka

n early 2017 four women sat around a table in Lusaka to discuss something they were frustrated about. This wasn’t the first time they had had such a conversation, but this was the first time they sat down to do something about it. These women had something in common— they were all working in wildlife conservation, an historically male dominated sector, and were often the only women in the room.

And thus they came up with a plan—they would create a network that would bring women like them together. It would be called ‘Women for Conservation’, an inclusive network for all women and allies who work in, or are interested in, conservation in Zambia; to meet, share ideas and opportunities...and to support each other. Since then a lot has changed; Women for Conservation is no longer just an idea in the minds of four Zambian conservationists but a functional entity that meets quarterly to connect women across Zambia, giving them access to conservation stories many do not even know exist.

The idea of an informal network is not a new one—networks have been built between conservationists in Zambia many times over. However, partly due to the high number of expatriates and specifically men working in conservation, these networks have not always been accessible to Zambians, especially women. It is not necessarily that women were deliberately excluded from these spaces, but rather that access to these spaces is limited by many things including how well one’s ability is to integrate. Furthermore, conservation work is a difficult choice for women, especially if work is in remote locations for long periods of time and if there are cultural expectations of marriage, children or high-paying salaries. The workplace gender gap is still very evident in Zambia and seldom is this as glaringly obvious as in the conservation sector. This and many other factors have led to the belief that conservation isn’t for Zambian women and that is what Women for Conservation seeks to address.

From their very first meeting, the women behind this initiative have sought to dispel all the myths behind what ‘real’ conservationists look like. One way of doing this is by inviting a wide array of prominent women such as Chilufya Kapwepwe of Imiti Ikula Empanga and Thandiwe Phiri of the Zambian Carnivore Programme to speak to rapt audiences about their work and challenges, inspiring the next generation of conservation leaders. Women for Conservation also goes beyond inspiring talks and takes women out into nature to interact with the very resources they seek to protect. Since mid-2017 the ladies of Women for Conservation have held over eight events, covering everything from networking drinks, to 4x4 vehicle maintenance courses and most recently a wildlife film screening, and for these ladies this is just the beginning.

It ought to go without saying that conservation needs a feminine perspective to be able to solve some of the related complex social issues. Women represent half the population, and this should be reflected in all sectors. Time and time again it has been proven that cultural and gender-sensitive perspectives are most effective in reaching across barriers. Conservation in Zambia still has many barriers but because of Women for Conservation things are a little better. Our goal is simple—an inclusive Zambia that serves and protects all equally—and with your help, it can be achieved.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

‘There is no force more powerful than a woman determined to rise.’ Bosa Sebele To be added to the Women for Conservation database and be notified of our next event, email: info@wildlifecrimeprevention.org

Facebook: LSK Co-Op / Instagram: Lsk.collective

ucked away behind the bustling street food market of Longacres, next door to Lusaka Boys School, is a tranquil story-telling collective that celebrates the authenticity of local design, engaging the senses with a timeless and eclectic selection of goods that speak human connection. Here you can find a handpicked collection of ceramics, glassware, body products, clothing and homeware. The setting embraces a true ‘soul of the city’ experience and is a must-see for those travelling through Lusaka looking for a one-stop place to find gifts and souvenirs.

Lusaka Collective is a newly established business that was born from personal encounters, passion and a foreseeable gap in the market by Talitha Ullrich and Rosanne Thorne. Friends turned business partners, after joint travels, adventures, hours of midnight conversations and late night cups of tea, they decided to make a go of Lusaka Collective. The doors officially opened for trading in April, 2019. The ladies have described their journey as overwhelming, humbling, and running before they had even learnt to crawl. They are truly committed to developing and promoting the best of Zambian design and making creativity more accessible in Zambia. The owners Rosanne and Talitha are knowledgeable about the artists and the products are reasonably priced. There is also a lovely coffee shop within the premises with a good selection of beverages and bakes. It is worth making a stop here while in Lusaka.

lusaka COLLECTIVE Writer: Lusaka Collective Photography: Francois d'Elbee / Talitha Ullrich

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

The Wild Sourplum

The Bright Red Bush That Heralds In Christmas

Annabel Hughes Aston is a writer, a chef, a gardener and a forager. She lives with her husband on a farm upstream from Victoria Falls in Livingstone, Zambia. She is the creator of ‘bush gourmet’ cuisine, developed while experimenting with, and fusing, wild edibles and indigenous Zambian ingredients with fresh local produce, mostly grown in her organic vegetable garden. Annabel won two awards after introducing her bush gourmet cuisine at The Elephant Café in Livingstone, including the Luxury Travel Guide Awards Boutique Restaurant of the Year (Africa & Middle East) for 2017, and Zambia’s Best New Restaurant in 2016. She has consulted to awardwinning lodges throughout Zambia, and is currently writing a food memoir. Annabel will be opening her own food establishment on the farm in April, 2020. Learn more at www.annabelhughesaston.com

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Writer: Annabel Hughes Aston Photography: Annabel Hughes Aston

ild sourplums, or mungomba, as the Tonga people call them, taste like pukka maraschino cherries infused with almond essence. To me, nothing announces Christmas more in the upper Zambezi Valley than the arrival of wild sourplums, brought on by the onset of the summer rains. The large sourplum, or Ximenia caffra, grows throughout the bush on our farm, which sits atop the escarpment upriver from Victoria Falls. The fruits adorn the shaggy, shrub-like trees on which they grow like perfectly round, perfectly red Christmas ornaments.

Each December, families from neighbouring villages help me forage for fresh wild sourplums on and around our property, bringing me baskets and bucket-loads of

Nzembwe (millet) and Peppery Leaves, and Roasted Butternut and Beetroot with Mubuyu (baobab) Za’atar.

fruit almost daily. Because I create the demand, foraging has turned into a community project run by Zambian women with whom I work in my business, SavannaBel–Bush Gourmet. Here, I mostly preserve the wild sourplums into syrups or jellies, but it is a busy time of year in my kitchen and my staff and I struggle to keep up. December is when so many different wild edibles start to ripen. We work our way through a growing number of jars of preserved nsumo (false wild medlar) fruit, large saucepans bubbling up with wild sourplum syrup, bottles of mukanonga (African mangosteen) fruit purée, trays of nsumo being dried in our hot sun, and buckets of roasted mongongo nuts, which we later freeze in order to use throughout the off-season.

This year I am preparing a whole duck, roasted slowly and simply, but set alight by a wild sourplum salsa, a kind of bush version of cranberry sauce. I will be serving this with wild lusala roots (tubers that taste like potatoes), and parsnips, carrots and onions from my own organic garden, all roasted in duck fat. Wild sourplums are found throughout Southern Africa. Birds and butterflies love the tree as much as humans, which isn’t surprising because their benefits are numerous. Packed with vitamin C and potassium, the sourplum also contains lots of protein. The oil content in the seeds, which is unusually high, is extracted and used to soften skin, as well as animal hides. The Tonga people use the wild sourplum as a remedy for many ailments, including stomach aches, mouth infections and toothache, while powdered sourplum roots are used in unguents and added to beer as an aphrodisiac.

I have incorporated wild sourplum in savoury dishes, mostly accompanying duck and pork; and as well, it produces a seriously good ice cream, raved about by all who eat it. The ice cream’s flavour and colour are singular. As my husband said the first time he ever tasted it: ‘There just isn’t anything else with which I can come close to comparing to this ice cream.’ Last Christmas I made Seared Duck Breast with Wild Sourplum, Ginger and Star Anise as a main dish on Christmas Day, which I served alongside Jewelled Mongu Rice, Ad-dicts Advert T&L.pdf

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With the greatest care we have handpicked our destinations where we operate our premier camps. Every place has a special story to tell and is part of an important ecosystem.

found in the area into its architecture. Four human sized birds’ nests have been raised up into the tree tops, blending into their surroundings and offering great views out over the flood plains.

We are pleased to have recently announced the addition of Chisa Busanga Camp and Shawa Luangwa Camp to our portfolio of properties both opening in June, 2020.

Shawa Luangwa Camp derives its name from the partnership with Jacob Shawa, the legendary guide (Wanderlust top 8 best world professional guides in 2017) who was born and brought up within Zambia's South Luangwa valley. Shawa Luwangwa Camp is ideally located in the heart of the Lupanda GMA, on the banks of the Luangwa River, perfect for exploring both the Park and the Nsefu sector.

Chisa Busanga Camp (“The Nest”) lies on a beautiful island in the heart of the Busanga Plains, Kafue National Park, Zambia; overlooking vast flood plains and dambos that teem with wildlife. Its remoteness and the most remarkable sunrises as mist rises from the drying floodplain guarantee a magical experience. Signature sightings for this area are tree climbing lions and the red lechwe leaping the small streams. Chisa Busanga Camp features the local Nyanja word for “Bird’s Nest” in its name. A fitting title for a camp drawing inspiration from the weaver nests

The small and intimate camp consists of 5 tents (5 double and 2 of which can be converted into a family tent), all overlooking the Luangwa river. Both new properties are based in what we believe to be Zambia’s wildest and most pristine wilderness areas - paired with our eLandy for slient safaris guests really blend in with nature and experience an African Safari at its finest.

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South Luangwa

s FROM PHOTO SAFARIS WITH EDWARD SELFE t h g i l igh In this series, we publish extracts from trip reports of photo safaris led by Edward Selfe in the South Luangwa. The full reports, with many more photos, can be found at www.edwardselfephotosafaris.com

The following is an extract from a photo safari at Lion Camp in the peak of the dry season.

icking up the sight of vultures dropping onto the ground in the distance, we headed towards them, hoping that perhaps the resident Mwamba Pride had killed something the night before. Indeed, they had—we found all 19 of the pride (including two males) feeding on a fresh buffalo carcass which they’d killed just an hour earlier. The pride is well known for preying on buffalo and has many battle scars to show for it. The lions had killed the buffalo in a large area of long grass so it was hard to see the individuals, but we eventually accounted for all 19. Suddenly, while most were feeding, several of the pride stood up and stared intently across the river. We followed their gaze with binoculars and couldn’t see anything initially, but eventually resolved two male lions from a neighbouring pride walking along the top of the opposite river bank. They appeared interested in the buffalo kill and the females feeding on it. But they looked young and we assumed that they were aware of how unevenly matched they would be if they challenged the males with the large pride.

Some of the pride began to call to affirm territorial claim and the young males on the opposite bank lay down, apparently thinking again about approaching. The pride on our side continued to feed.  Soon enough though, one of the young males began to move again and descended the river bank and waded across the river towards us. This drew considerable attention from the whole pride who stopped feeding and watched his approach carefully. At this point, the intruder was still 400 metres from the buffalo carcass. After reaching dry land, the youngster pranced along the bank, feigning indifference at the 19 pairs of eyes glowering at him. Such indifference is a well-recognised method of showing lack of fear of your adversary. About 300 metres from the main pride, he lay down on the sand close to the water and waited. One of the pride males started to walk towards him, but approaching from behind, apparently stalking the younger lion. Of course, the youngster was more than aware of his presence but chose to lie still. Barely

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

South Luangwa believing what we were seeing, the young male allowed the larger pride male to stalk right up to him, reacting only when the attacker was almost on top of him. It was all over in about 10 seconds, but the photos show that it was not merely a ritual— the youngster was rolled on his back and the older male picked up some cuts on his face. While we were intently watching (and photographing) the fight, the larger male’s brother was running from the carcass towards the commotion, a path which took him to within a metre of the front of our vehicle. It was an awesome sight to see a mature male lion at full speed running directly towards us. Of course, he wasn’t heading for us at all and passed right by, but it was a heart-stopping moment as 200 kilograms of lion thundered past. Having won the fight, the pride male had re-established his claim and pursued the youngster down the sand with his brother at his side. With the territorial calls of 17 other lions deafening us from behind, we watched as the two dominant males chased the youngster back across the river. The pride males were panting heavily when they returned to the pride...that had gone back to eating! When the river levels are low, as they are in the Luangwa during the dry season, animals cross the river daily to reach new feeding grounds and challenge territorial claims. In this case, I think the youngster was aware that he was no match for the larger lion but was perhaps testing the boundaries and the dominant male’s strength. It’s only through these challenges that the younger males will know when it’s their time to take over and claim breeding rights to the 17 females.

South Luangwa

Young Zambians Dreaming Big And Making A Difference Writer: Julie Bates Photography: Shutter Speed Pictures

n August, 2019 I went to visit the PaBoChu Tuition Centre and Book Buddies Library Club in Mfuwe. It is off the main road, right in Kefa village and Patrick Chulu (aged 26) and Janet Mwanza (aged 23) who come from this village were getting ready to start the August holiday programme. I had been mentoring Janet and Patrick for 18 months or so and Janet had just returned from a life-changing 18 months’ work experience placement with The Book Bus in Kitwe in the Copperbelt. Secondary school students were turning up at the centre for their extra year 12 GCE tuition with Patrick. They attend throughout the year and keep coming in the holidays, hoping to turbo charge their important GCE results. Final exams are not far away! Many of these students have their tuition sponsored by NGOs, a few have parents

who are able to afford Patrick’s very minimal fees. The students file in, keen to grasp the difficult concepts of high school maths, science etc. There are also some school leavers who use PaBoChu for mentoring, research and interview practice and university students receive their tuition by remote learning. Patrick is very proud to be creating the first tuition centre for Mfuwe. He also teaches local language Chinyanja classes to English-speaking expats and even the occasional tourist.

He is a responsible role model to his students and I get the impression he really loves these students and wants them to succeed in life as well as in their exams. He is a big advocate of learning by understanding. I heard him say, ‘I want you to become mathematical thinkers, not calculators’ and he wants them to be able to apply what they learn to real life.

A big difficulty facing Patrick is that most of the students lack the basic ground knowledge in the subjects, so he assesses every

'She believed she could, so she did.'

R.S. Grey, Scoring Wilder

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

'Do it again and again. Consistency makes the rain drops create holes in the rock.' Israelmore Ayivor, The Great Hand Book of Quotes

student in each subject and tries to help them understand their missing building blocks before taking them forward on this year’s curriculum. He has a lot to fit in to a year’s tuition!

Patrick tells me, ‘What I like most is the teaching profession keeps me on my toes and keeps me young at heart. It allows me to use my brain and continue learning each day and I am learning new strategies, ideas and skills. I am learning a lot about myself, not only as a teacher but as a person. I am learning how much or how little I can handle each day. I am learning more about my craft and how to best communicate it with my students. It’s a profession that allows me to be creative, and work with a variety of different people. Each school day brings with it a new beginning. There are difficulties but the rewards are witnessing the learning process and also my personal relationship with students and parents. I am able to see the results of my hard work every single day.’ Meanwhile, next door in the brand new Book Buddies Library, younger children from five-15 years of age were arriving. The noise and energy level had to be heard to be believed. Janet had all her reading co-ordinator and library skills ready for action. She calmly sorted the children into different age groups and arranged for the groups to start coming at different times going forward. The holiday programme settled down to sessions of story-time, quiet reading, phonics, word games, drawing and of course, wonderful Zambian dancing and singing. The Book Buddies Club is free and these sessions now continue before and after school. The children enjoy using the library space and it is Janet’s immediate goal to get more children reading and enjoying stories and books. Her longer-term goal is to see some of these children doing better in all their subjects at school because their literacy level is higher.

Janet’s favourite story is Matilda, by Roald Dahl. ‘I love this story because it inspires and encourages me a lot. It is about a small girl who taught herself to love books. She was two years old when she knew how to read and she was intelligent. Her parents never wanted her to learn so she used to sneak from her parents’ house and went to the nearest library to read. This book can also inspire and encourage our kids here, to always push themselves up at school. No matter what difficult circumstances which may arise and distract them, they should keep going to reach their better destination.

‘Book Buddies is conducting sessions for the Beginners (those who can’t read a single word or letter), Intermediates (those who can identify words and read short stories) and the Advanced (those who can read a long paragraph and comprehend it.) There is also some dancing and singing, games and all sorts of fun to make our sessions more interesting. The aim of the library is to improve literacy and make sure more children have access to books, have fun reading and get a better education, with the prospect of a brighter future.

‘My work ethic is strong and I gained valuable skills and experience working at The Book Bus. I have a big job now being in charge of everything. But I know that I have to look after my community and feed my country with knowledge. One of my greatest rewards so far is when I had a Grade 4 who could not read anything or identify words but she is now able to read a long paragraph and comprehend it. That is really a fantastic reward for me!’ The two quotations at the beginning of this article surely illustrate the determination and enthusiasm of Patrick Chulu and Janet Mwanza to make a difference…not only to themselves but to those they inspire.

How can you help?

We are building up a bank of laptops for students to share in the PaBoChu Tuition Centre as well as in the Book Buddies Library so if you have any good-condition laptops that you are able to donate, please let me know! And to keep the library’s offering fresh and the students challenged, our need for appropriate books will be never-ending! Julie Bates shutterspeedtravel@mac.com www.shutterspeedpictures.co.uk Cell: +260963668845/ +260979773715 Email: pabochupabo@gmail.com

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

South Luangwa

SOUTH LUANGWA ON A

Writer: Jamie Small Photography: Jamie Small

Budget

udget: a misconceived perception of ‘affordable’ lodges and camps in South Luangwa National Park in Zambia, one of my favourite places in the world. Wildlife is everywhere— not only in the park itself but even in the camps, lodges and the local village of Mfuwe. And if you know where to stay, you can have a world-class safari experience for a fraction of the cost of visiting more famous parks such as the Serengeti and Kruger.

A smattering of lodges and camps is spread along the south bank of the Luangwa River, each with its own offerings and atmosphere. Backpackers, families, and the budget-conscious will find the affordable accommodation options share all the best parts of the area...just without the silver service and frills and flummery! Expect to wake up every morning to the sun rising over the Luangwa River while hippos graze on the banks; go on game drives and walks teeming with wild animals, just minutes away from your accommodation; soak in a pool in the hot afternoon sun; watch in awe as elephants wander through the camps; and visit shops stocked with locally-made art, sculptures and textiles.

Three of the local accommodation options pitch themselves at the ‘affordable’ market: Croc Valley Camp, Wildlife Camp and Marula Lodge.

The best way to save your pennies here is to bring your own tent. Croc Valley Camp and Wildlife Camp both allow campers to pitch their tents near the banks of the river where you can enjoy the same amazing views as you can from the chalets. You can also cook your own food in the camp kitchens or on coal/wood-fire barbeques. Mfuwe village has a couple of shops with all the basics and a few luxuries, but you may need to take a taxi to get there and resupply.

If you can’t bring your own tent, all three options have cheap permanent tents and small chalets starting from around US$15 per person per night. And if you want a larger or more comfortable space, you can rent large rooms with en suite bathrooms—Croc Valley even has air-conditioned rooms available.

Croc Valley Camp is one of the busiest spots in the Luangwa Valley, with a large communal area and a bar that is often humming in the

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

evenings. The tree-filled block of land overlooks a straight section of river with ever-present hippos and namesake crocodiles in large numbers. Between the large pool, the giant outdoor chess set and the hammocks scattered around the camp, there are plenty of activities at Croc Valley to keep you busy in between game drives. Just around the bend, Marula Lodge offers a quieter atmosphere. The open-walled bar and restaurant are at the centre of the grounds. The chalets are set back from the river among the mopani trees, with uncongested space to sit and enjoy the riverside by yourself or in a group with a drink. There is also a dorm room for backpackers and large groups, complete with beautiful and secluded outdoor showers.

As well as the usual game drives and village visits, Marula offers bicycle tours of local sights and shops—after scouting the road to make sure it is clear of elephants! Marula, like Croc Valley, is just a couple of minutes’ drive from the entrance to South Luangwa National Park making them perfect for quick access and early morning game drives.

Wildlife Camp is the spot to be if you want a real bush experience. Far away from the sounds of Mfuwe village, this camp is spread over an enormous block of land with several camping and lodging sites. The main sites have a pool and bar and camouflaged blind huts for viewing the abundant wild animals up close next to watering holes. Wildlife Camp’s bush camp is a couple of hours’ walk from the main camp, letting you stay even closer to nature in the relative luxury of permanent tents. The walk is a safari experience in its own right, with animals, plants and tracks to observe and learn about on the way. It takes a little longer for game drives to get to the national park from Wildlife Camp, but with its own flats, wetland, riverfront and forest you might not feel the need to leave at all.

Each of these destinations has its own atmosphere and charm, and each offers the same basic services as the fancier resorts: beautiful river views; game drives in one of Africa’s best wilderness areas; free-roaming wildlife; and comfortable surroundings. The safari vehicles might have a few scratches on them and the meals focus more on flavour than presentation, but as long as you don’t require gold taps or chocolates on your pillow these affordable lodgings are an excellent way to experience South Luangwa.

South Luangwa

Croc Valley Camp

Accommodation: - camping, permanent tents, chalets, parking space for overlanders

Best feature:

- wood-fired pizzas at the bar on Friday night

Bonus points:

Marula Lodge

- supports local businesses and Conservation South Luangwa

Accommodation: - permanent tents, chalets, dorm room

Best feature:

- beautiful restaurant and gift shop

Bonus points:

Wildlife Camp

- supports local school libraries and businesswomen

Accommodation: - camping, permanent tents, chalets, parking space for overlanders

Best feature:

- deep in the bush away from the hustle and bustle of Mfuwe

Bonus points:

- supports the Wildlife Environmental Conservation Society of Zambia

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Across the border—Zimbabwe In the south-east corner of Zimbabwe, adjoining the Mozambican border, is a vast wilderness area and one of the country’s most scenic landscapes—Zimbabwe’s second largest national park—Gonarezhou.

organisations have been established to assist with research and monitoring, as well as ongoing engagement with local communities to ensure they benefit and buy into the ith an astonishing diversity of protection of the park. Co-operation with key terrain, incorporating the iconic sandstone Chilojo Cliffs, plunging waterfalls, natural spring tourism stakeholders has also been vital for ensuring consistent revenue streams that will lines, three major rivers, magnificent baobab ultimately support ecological sustainability. trees on rocky ridges, pockets of open flood plains and mopane woodlands with tracts As Hugo van der Westhuizen, trust director of of palm tree forests, the area is traversed by the Gonarezhou Conservation Trust says, ‘We Africa’s largest land mammal, as well as an need to ensure we are building alliances within estimated 88 other mammal species. This is the conservation world and with local evident as their footprints and pathways are communities to work towards a common goal. subtly moulded into, and seen across, the wide This is not about self-promotion, it is about our sweeping sand rivers and through the forest future and our children’s future, and to give up woodlands. It is no wonder then, that the name is not an option.’ ‘Gonarezhou’, when translated in the local language, means ‘Place of the Elephants’. A strong and unified vision

It is an area steeped in history...with past outbreaks of war in both Zimbabwe and in Mozambique, notorious ivory poachers, land and boundary disputes and ancient traces of the slave trade. Its turbulent history, however, is now overshadowed by the successful collaborative efforts underway to restore the landscape and turn this exceptional ecosystem into one of the foremost well-managed conservation areas in Southern Africa.

So what does it actually take to transform 5,053 square kilometres of prime wilderness into a protected and sustainable ecosystem? Collaboration, team-work and long-term co-management partnerships

In 2007, the Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority entered into a financial and technical assistance model for Gonarezhou National Park with Frankfurt Zoological Society. Lasting for a period of 10 years, up until 2017, the agreement focused on investment in infrastructure and the protection of the park’s resources. Following the successful implementation of these two aspects, in March, 2017, management of Gonarezhou was handed over to the Gonarezhou Conservation Trust, a co-management partnership between the Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority and the Frankfurt Zoological Society. Overseen by a board of trustees, represented equally by both partners, the co-management partnership was created to establish a platform to enhance investment into the long-term sustainability of the park, a key feature being the retention of tourism funds at a park level for direct reinvestment into Gonarezhou and maintaining its ecological resources. In addition, partnerships with other key conservation and community development

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A powerful vision is vital to ensure focus, energy, objectives, planning, co-ordination and evaluation. The vision of the Gonarezhou Conservation Trust is clear and concise… ‘To be a model for sustainable conservation in Africa—where ecosystems are protected, tourism for conservation thrives and our stakeholders matter’.

Alongside this vision is a clearly laid-out purpose which is, ‘to protect and conserve the wilderness, biodiversity, ecological processes and wild and scenic landscapes within the park boundary. The park’s exceptional resource values will be sustained for present and future generations, while supporting its role in the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area and regional economic development. The culture and history of the Shangaan people will be recognised as one of the key components of the park’. Professional, dedicated and passionate people

Ultimately, if the will of the people is not there, then these wilderness areas eventually fall away due to inadequate protection, altering the habitat use, over-utilisation or the destruction of the natural resources. ‘We can have all financial resources and good intentions in the world, but if the people who are doing the actual work on the ground are not committed to what they are doing then we are wasting our time, money and dreams. It is all about the dedication of the people we are supporting and working with, all of whom are working in difficult circumstances and protecting the last wild areas and its wildlife,’ says Hugo. Currently, the number of staff directly available for field patrols within the park number close to 150, the highest in the park’s history, and a number that is anticipated to rise over the coming years. With a core aim to provide local

Writer: Shelley Cox, Africa Conservation Travel Photography: Africa Conservation Travel, Mana Meadows/ Gonarezhou Conservation Trust

Across the border—Zimbabwe

GONAREZHOU ZIMBABWE’S CONSERVATION SUCCESS STORY

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Across the border—Zimbabwe

‘Gonarezhou’, when translated in the local language, means ‘Place of the Elephants’

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employment where possible and appropriate, recent recruitment drives have centred in areas directly adjacent to the park, and to date over 80 per cent of staff employed originate from neighbouring areas. All staff undergo intensive selection and training, followed up with regular in-house refresher courses and ongoing support to ensure the necessary skills and discipline to cope with the demanding and diverse issues they are faced with in the field. Key personalities over the years have been influential in ensuring the park is protected and conserved for future generations. These include well-known and respected names such as Clive Stockil, Hugo and Elsabe van der Westhuizen, Anthony Kashcula, and the National Parks Area Manager, Evious Mpofu. Without these passionate individuals, Gonarezhou could have been in a very different situation than that in which it finds itself today.

Across the border—Zimbabwe conflict for those communities living alongside Gonarezhou National Park.

In addition, along the north-eastern boundary of the park, the directors of Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge have been operating the Mahenye Charitable Trust to help further benefit the local communities. Continuing the positive momentum created by the CAMPFIRE (Communal Areas Management Programme for Indigenous Resources) Programme initiated by Clive Stockil in the 1980s, the trust provides funding towards projects identified in conjunction with the village elders that will directly benefit the local community. Connectivity

Gonarezhou plays an integral role in the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area, an area measuring almost 100,000 square Ecological monitoring and resource kilometres and made up of wilderness protection landscapes within South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. With at least 30 per cent of the Ecosystems can be easily stressed by human park boundary being the international boundary activities, climate change and many other between Zimbabwe and Mozambique, it has variables. Ecosystem monitoring is critical to been vital to ensure cross border collaboration ecosystem health and Gonarezhou Conservation in protecting the park, and these Transfrontier Trust conducts extensive ecological monitoring Conservation Areas are critical for ecosystem to measure the impact of project activities, as resilience and support the ethos of regional well as to guide future management actions. stability, sustainable economic development and These include regular large mammal aerial enhancing the overall ecosystem integrity. surveys, ongoing carnivore spoor surveys, monitoring of threatened or endangered Tourism and infrastructure species, road grading, fire monitoring, vegetation mapping and elephant movement The ethos of the park’s tourism is to tread as studies. softly on the landscape as possible, whilst fully immersing oneself in the experience of being in In addition, the trust makes use of new and this vast and rugged wilderness. Maintaining a innovative technologies as a key strategy in low footprint has been a priority and ensuring the protection of the park’s resources. All the park does not become oversubscribed with patrol groups are equipped with digital radios, tourism operators has been key to this. The park allowing them to be in constant communication offers a variety of accommodation options, from with a central operations hub, allowing senior remote wilderness campsites with basic management and staff to monitor real-time facilities to community-built manangas movements of the ranger teams and provide (traditional Shangaan-style rondavels), immediate feedback on deployment mid-level chalets and higher-end mobile or strategies, taking into account information temporary tented camps. In addition Chilo obtained through other groups and sources. Gorge Safari Lodge, which sits on the boundary The park also has a canine unit which, through of the park, offers a more luxurious experience. a combination of tracking and detection skills, is on hand to support the ranger operations. Law The conservation of large protected areas such enforcement efforts and results are monitored as Gonarezhou are complex and costly, and it through the use of the SMART law enforcement is through the formation of the Gonarezhou software and DAS, enabling management to Conservation Trust that positive steps have been make informed decisions, evaluate staff taken towards achieving long-term performance, and determine trends in levels and conservation viability for the park. Over the last types of threat over time. decade, wildlife populations in Gonarezhou have shown a consistent positive trend. So if you are Community engagement and looking for a pure, rugged and true wilderness sustainable community development experience, Gonarezhou should be top of your list. With an estimated 89 species of mammals The ‘Chilojo Club’ is the flagship community and 492 species of birds, the park has a plethora engagement project in Gonarezhou and is a of fauna and flora making it one of the ultimate joint initiative by the Gonarezhou Conservation safari destinations in Southern Africa today. By Trust, the African Wildlife Conservation Fund visiting Gonarezhou, you are not only and the SAT (Sustainable Agriculture Technolo- supporting the concerted efforts underway to gy)-WILD (Wildlife in Livelihood Development) ensure the longevity of this incredible Programme. It embraces a number of initiatives ecological gem, but you are supporting an that include conservation education, awareness example of successful on-the-ground programmes and mitigation of human-wildlife conservation of a truly wild habitat. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

CREATING A GREATER CONNECTION BETWEEN TOURISM, CONSERVATION AND COMMUNITIES

info@africaconservationtravel.com www.africaconservation.com +263 774 641622

Across the border—Zimbabwe

A BRIGHT FUTURE FOR MATUSADONA NATIONAL PARK Writer: Shelley Cox, Africa Conservation Travel Photography: Africa Conservation Travel

premier elephant and black rhino sanctuary. The lush landscape, consisting of undulating hills that quickly descend to abruptly flat grasslands, forms important habitat for a large diversity of savannah and woodland species and makes up an integral part of n 1st November, 2019, Zimbabwe the middle-Zambezi complex within the National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority signed yet another public/private Sebungwe region. partnership as they step up their efforts Apart from the astounding diversity of over to ensure the successful conservation and long-term viability of the country’s national 240 bird species, a healthy variety of mammal species still occur within parks. Matusadona including lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant, waterbuck and impala. After a few years of discussions, African The shoreline of Lake Kariba is guarded by Parks (AP), a well-known non-profit conservation organisation that takes on the a kilometre-wide, iconic drowned forest, and when combined with the park’s unique complete responsibility for the vegetation, offers considerable and special rehabilitation and long-term management tourism potential through both land- and of national parks in partnership with water-based activities including game governments and local communities, has drives, walking safaris, viewing, catch-andsigned a 20-year agreement with the release fishing and boat cruises. Zimbabwe National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, to take on Founded in 2000, African Parks utilises management of the Matusadona National a clear business approach to conserving Park. Africa’s wildlife and remaining wilderness areas, securing vast landscapes and carrying At 1,470 square kilometres, the out the necessary activities needed to stunning and unique landscape of Matusdona presents enormous possibilities protect the parks and their wildlife. African Parks maintains a strong focus on economic for both wildlife and tourism, and has the potential to once again become Zimbabwe’s development and poverty alleviation of

surrounding communities to ensure that each park is ecologically, socially and financially sustainable in the long-term. Currently African Parks manages 16 national parks and protected areas in 10 countries, covering almost 11 million hectares of landscape. These countries include Benin, Central African Republic, Chad, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Malawi, Mozambique, the Republic of Congo, Rwanda, Zambia and now Zimbabwe.

With the signing of the 20-year agreement, African Parks aims to revive Matusadona through a foundation of good governance, an effective law enforcement strategy to secure the park coupled with community engagement initiatives, and, importantly, restoring wildlife populations through reintroductions of indigenous species and thus boosting tourism. AP’s shared vision with the government is to reposition Matusadona National Park in Zimbabwe as a leading safari tourism destination in the region…and in Africa. We look forward to following the progressive steps that will be taken as yet another of Zimbabwe’s national parks becomes an example of successful conservation and rehabilitation. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Come alive again EXPERIENCE THE WONDERS OF HWANGE

Stay three nights and only pay for two at Verney’s Camp, Deteema Springs & Deka Camp in Hwange National Park, and Ingwe Pan in Mana Pools.

V I S I T W W W. M A C H A B A S A FA R I S .C O M FOR FURTHER INFO EMAIL E N Q U I R I E S @ M A C H A B A S A FA R I S.C O M

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Valid from 18 February 2019 to 31 May 2020; Terms and Conditions Apply.

Across the border—Zimbabwe

Five Minutes With...

Please tell us about yourself

I grew up outside the national park in a small town called Dete, where I was born and bred. I did my primary education at Saint Francis Xavier Primary School and my secondary education at Marist Brothers High School right there in Dete. From there, I went on to study tourism and hospitality management, which is a four-year programme, in the Midlands—Gweru to be specific—at Midlands State University. After that I ventured into the safari industry and I started off with Wilderness Safaris. I worked basically in all their camps, starting in Mana Pools National Park at Ruckomechi and then I came to their Hwange National Park camps. From there I joined African Bush Camps and I was managing Somalisa Expeditions. It was from there that I then joined Verney’s Camp under Machaba Safaris.

NONGQABUTHO ‘NONO’ NGWENYA

How long have you been working in this Industry? Basically, six years now.

Why did you start working for Machaba Safaris?

Number one, it’s the way they take care of their staff. Each of the staff has his/her own house and only share the bathroom. They are welcome to bring in couples; for example, we’ve got two chefs with their wives here, a waiter with his wife here and most of all I can bring my daughter here in the bush and she is only a year and six months old. So that’s a plus for Machaba Safaris that they put their employees first before anything else.

What is it like being a camp manager?

It’s challenging and fun at the same time, though it’s not always an easy road. Sometimes the logistics are difficult to put everything in order; you get some guests that come here expecting something and they find something different. So, we try to convince them until they find it a comfortable and memorable stay for them. Those are just the basic challenges I get, otherwise I enjoy meeting people and learning about different cultures from different places.

Camp Manager, Verney’s Camp

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What are your top ten tips for a camp manager?

- Being humble—a camp manager needs to be humble so that everyone can respect him/ her - Teamwork—as a camp manager you are a leader, but you should be willing to do whatever instruction you are giving someone to do. For instance, I cannot tell someone to clean the floor when myself I cannot do that...I should be willing to do so - Communication - Respecting your staff so that they respect you back - Smile and wave—if you see any guest coming towards you, all you need to do is smile. Sometimes that smile warms the guest and helps them feel at home - Make the guest feel at home - Friendly but firm - Have fun - Motivate the staff—make sure they too have fun - Willing to go an extra mile

What do you most enjoy about your work?

It’s that I have got two offices...that is the best part. I can sit in front of a computer but if I get tired I just walk up to the main area of the camp and chat with guests. Even when we don’t have guests, we’ve got animals to watch, and the birds...I think that’s what I enjoy watching the most.

How does it feel being a camp manager with your husband Robert?

It’s a bit difficult at times because you have to separate home issues with work. But at the same time, it’s the best thing because we are Africans...we still have some people who do not understand gender equality. They can never take an instruction from a woman, so having him on my side helps me gain respect from such people.

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What’s been your biggest achievement so far?

I think putting Verney’s Camp in order, since we opened. This was a new camp so getting staff from different places and trying to bond them into working as a team was a challenge. When we started it was a bit rough, but now everyone is gelling and understanding the reason why we are out here. I have tried ways to work with the team for them to realise why we are here and now we can say we are one team.

How often do you go home?

I do 56 days (eight weeks) and then two weeks off.

What’s the first thing you do when you get back home?

I try to sleep, since at work we have early mornings, spend more time with my daughter and travel if we can. We enjoy travelling... not really going very far but around Zimbabwe or just around Southern African countries.

Is your work ever dangerous?

Yes and no, because we live in the middle of the park. Our camp is an open camp and animals wander around as they please. Sometimes there is this mutual respect between us humans and the animals and the fact that we can live and walk when animals might be about five metres away and you are still safe is great.

What are your future ambitions?

Hopefully one day I will be able to own my camp. If not, maybe a tour operating company or travel agency company, so that I am able to sell the camps because I know how camps operate.

Across the border—Zimbabwe

MARVELLOUS MANA Writer: Sarah Kingdom Photography: African Bush Camps

here was a low rumble of elephants as the herd approached the waterhole and splashed into the water. This was a family group, with a tiny baby in tow. The baby was trying hard to join in with the ‘teenagers’ and would disappear underwater for extended periods of time. Each time I wondered if the baby would ever resurface, a tiny trunk would appear, like a snorkel, just above the water line. The two teenagers were almost completely immersed and I wondered how the baby was managing to tread water for so long. When, tired of the game, the elephants stood up, I realised they’d only been in knee-deep water; I did however also realise

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that the baby, at full height, only reached their knees!

We were at Kanga Camp in Mana Pools, Zimbabwe, a World Heritage Site of incredible wilderness and beauty, and where elephants, of which there are over 12,000 in the park, would certainly be one of the highlights of our stay.

This camp, situated in one of the remotest parts of Mana Pools National Park, 15 kilometres from the Zambezi River, combines luxury with seclusion, with a hint of raw wilderness thrown in for good measure. However, this was sadly just a pit stop on our way deeper into Mana Pools, but it was not the last we would see of elephants. Next stop was Zambezi Expeditions, another of African Bush Camps’ beautiful

locations, this time perched on the banks of the river with the magnificent backdrop of Zambia and the Zambezi Escarpment across the water. Zambezi Expeditions is one of the regular haunts of Boswell, an elephant famous in these parts, well known for his tendency to stand on his hind legs when reaching for the succulent-looking branches and fruits that would otherwise be out of reach. The Zambezi River at Mana Pools is wide and dotted with islands. Over 350 species of bird flourish here, from goliath herons, cormorants, storks and kingfishers to spur-winged geese, brilliantly coloured bee-eaters and magnificent African fish eagles. Hippos warm themselves on the river’s edge in the morning sun and share submerged sandbanks with silent crocodiles. The silhouettes of elephants and

SARA HOSTED H WAS A BUSH C T AFRICAN AMPS’ T LOCATI HREE ONS IN MANA POO KANGA CAM ZAMBE ZI EXPE P DITION NYAMA S TUSI

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disappointing one and the wildlife was already starting to make an appearance by the river, months earlier than usual, searching for water and food.

Across the border—Zimbabwe

That afternoon we took to canoes; it was the camp’s first canoe trip of the season. The shallow waters and unexpected sandbanks, combined with a few detours necessitated by territorial hippos, made for a few bursts of adrenaline. As we approached camp, Boswell, the elephant, suddenly loomed large over us, feeding on an island in the river. As we looked up at him from below, we had a very different perspective of this sizeable elephant. We ended our canoe trip with spectacular sandbank sundowners. The third camp on our itinerary was the brand new Nyamatusi and it was here that we felt as if we had landed in the lap of luxury. The camp had only been open for a matter of weeks and is located in an area of Mana Pools where access was previously restricted by permit and it is still only accessible to camp visitors. We felt we had this remote part of the park to ourselves.

From our beds we could see the Lower Zambezi National Park on the opposite bank, in Zambia. The looming, treecovered escarpment looked like the folds of a bedspread draped over a sleeping giant. A morning walk took us very close to a dozing lion. We were rather keen to ‘let sleeping lions lie’, but a hippo trotting past and heading to the river woke him up. Catching a whiff of us on the wind, the lion hastily disappeared from sight.

buffalo are visible wading in the shallows and feeding on the banks.

Breakfast at Zambezi Expeditions is an atmospheric experience, sitting around the campfire, with tea or coffee in hand, as the sun comes up. 40 or 50 impala grazed on the river bank below and the world woke up around us...after breakfast we headed off for a walk. Wildlife in Mana Pools is very relaxed about people on foot. As we drove to a suitable point to start our walk, we came across several lions, including one sauntering past the national park’s headquarters and another one a stone’s throw from the official park campsite. Leaving the lions behind, we parked the vehicle and set off on foot with our guides, one bearing morning tea supplies and the other a gun. During the rains, most of the big game animals move away from the river and into the escarpment. They start returning to the riverine areas from around April, as the pans in the bush dry up. This rainy season, however, had been a sparse and

We returned to camp in time for lunch and a siesta. In a fitting touch of symmetry, having started our trip with elephants, we spent our final afternoon watching elephants in the distance, patrolling the opposite bank of the river.

On our last night in Mana Pools, rather unexpectedly, the skies opened and when we woke the next morning it was to a world transformed. The clear blue sky had vanished and in its place was mist. Birds were singing, celebrating the unexpected moisture. Antelopes were looking damp and slightly bewildered, but had their heads down, happily munching. The last rains had fallen in the park four months earlier, and everyone thought that the rainy season had passed the park by. Whilst the drought conditions had meant it would be a bumper season for predators, with all their prey being concentrated along the river, this rain falling now, just as the wet season would normally be coming to a close, could make quite a difference to the park in the months going forward. For us though it meant a very sticky and slippery drive out. The black cotton soil had absorbed the rain like a sponge and seemed reluctant to let us leave, gripping tight to our wheels and sending us skidding and sliding...one final adventure.

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Across the border—Zimbabwe

CRUISING IN PARADISE ON LAKE KARIBA

The PerfectHoliday

Writer: Sally Wynn, Wild Zambezi Photography: Wild Zambezi

icture the scene: you are relaxing on the deck of one of Lake Kariba’s sleep-aboard safari cruiseboats with a drink in hand and not a care in the world. A golden sun sinks below the horizon of silken water, the massive sky grows crimson and cormorants settle in the black silhouettes of the trees. The air is warm. A fish eagle’s haunting cry pierces the silence of the creek and the lions stirring from their day-time slumbers moan deep-throatily into the spreading darkness.

You have spent the day on the wide deck of the cruiseboat, with the breeze in your hair as the captain steers the vessel expertly across Lake Kariba to the shores of the Matusadona National Park. A delicious fresh lunch was served by the staff en route. Some family members retired to their comfortable en suite cabins for a short afternoon nap while others lounged on deck, sorting fishing gear, playing card games, chatting, relaxing, unwinding... As the shoreline approached and the crew searched for a suitable mooring spot, you watched hippos wallowing, a herd of elephant drinking in shallows and huge crocodiles sliding silently off sandbanks into the water. The active members of the party embarked on the vessel’s small tender boat for an evening’s fishing and game viewing along the shoreline, leaving you to bask in peace until their return at dusk. And now...safely moored up for the night in one of the myriad secluded creeks of the national park, you have the sounds and the stars of the African night all to yourself. A delicious candelit dinner on deck awaits...a hot shower and then a warm bed and a peaceful sleep, serenaded by the grunting of hippos and the gentle lap of waves against the boat. This is the magic of Lake Kariba—truly a holiday paradise: a 280-kilometre-long ‘inland sea’ of sun-dazzled, sparkling blue fresh water, its shoreline abundant with birdlife and wild animals, its waters full of wonderful fish species including the famous fighting tigerfish of the Zambezi. It offers a heap of water-based activities to satisfy all tastes and ages. And yet, this is one of the most undersold of Zimbabwe’s tourism experiences. Why? This is largely because Lake Kariba has long been

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eclipsed by the world-famous Victoria Falls upstream. Firstly therefore, the world-famous Victoria Falls, with its international airport and relatively easy access, tends to outshine the rest of the region’s travel destinations. Lake Kariba, just downstream, is an undiscovered jewel waiting to be unearthed.

Secondly, there is a branding issue. Lake Kariba’s spacious, fully-crewed cruising vessels that provide such idyllic experiences for families and groups of holidaymakers are called ‘houseboats’ by the locals. This terminology is confusing for international visitors, for whom ‘houseboats’ are something entirely different—the water-based equivalent of ‘mobile homes’—not at all associated with glamorous, fun-filled, cruising holiday experiences. So ‘safari cruiseboats’, therefore, is a more accurate term. A family holiday aboard one of these is really one of the best ways to relax, enjoy the natural wonders of the lake and ensure that everyone has fun. There are literally dozens of cruiseboats of all different shapes and sizes to choose from— with hire-out rates to suit every pocket. Most of them are berthed in the town of Kariba itself at the eastern end of the lake, but you can also hire them from Mlibizi or Binga at the western (Victoria Falls) end.

Most boats have comfortable, fully-equipped cabins, some with en suite bathrooms and air-conditioning or fans. The larger boats have enough space for guests to sleep on deck in the open air with mattresses and mosquito nets—a refreshing choice in the hot months from September onwards. You can self-cater (bring all your own provisions, but have meals prepared by the on-board staff) or go for the more luxury, fully-catered, all-inclusive option.

Across the border—Zimbabwe

Some of the luxury cruiseboats run on set departure schedules, others are flexible.

The boats are staffed by a captain, assisted by one or more crew members who undertake cooking and deckhand duties. A tender boat for game viewing and/or fishing is usually included with the boat hire, and you can often hire fishing equipment as well. Most boats have on-board swimming or plunge pools for cooling off in the heat—a winner with the children.

In all cases, you can be assured of the most wonderful, stress-free holiday aboard a Kariba cruiseboat. Once you set off onto the lake, sit back, relax and let Nyaminyami, the river spirit of the

Zambezi—part serpent, part fish— show you his best water magic!

For a list of experts to help you book a cruiseboat holiday on Lake Kariba, check out the searchable houseboat listings on WildZambezi.com

WildZambezi.com promotes travel opportunities to the Zambezi’s wild areas, including Victoria Falls, Lake Kariba, Chirundu, Mana Pools and the Lower Zambezi River. We provide searchable listings of operators, activities, accommodation, tours and services. We also offer reliable, independent reviews, news, blogs, and travel advice. www.wildzambezi.com

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Across the border—Zimbabwe

Wines Of South Africa 2019 Writer: Farai Chimba, Acting General Manager, Victoria Falls Hotel Photography: Safari Magazine

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he Wines of South Africa 2019 festival in Zimbabwe held in October at the Victoria Falls Hotel was another resounding success. This, the second Zimbabwe event, was established when Danai Wines owner, Albert Nhau, approached Wines of South Africa’s (WoSA) Mathome Mbata to do some work in the Zimbabwe market after realising the potential of the wine trade in this country. It was little known then that this event would turn out to be a major calendar highlight for this particular destination in Zimbabwe. Albert Nhau was to play an instrumental role in inviting Wines of South Africa over to Victoria Falls and Harare as initial target venues for an inaugural event. Upon visiting and being hosted by the Victoria Falls Hotel, the decision was never in doubt as to where the venue and event would be set for the roll out. The hotel, with Farai Chimba at the helm, hosted a cocktail event for the wine trade. Farai Chimba also chairs the Hospitality Association of Zimbabwe chapter, and it was seen that the time was ripe for putting into action the concept of a region-based tourism event targeting businesses in the wine trade.

This year’s occasion saw an increase in exhibitors and visitors and it is fast becoming the premium business and tourism wine tasting event, where wine estates and distributors are able to interact with the market and deals are sealed in the process. The primary target participants are retailers, distributors, lodges, hotels and restaurants, with secondary participants being support services to the wine industry. The event was graced by visitors from Botswana, Zambia, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Australia, among other tourists and trade visitors. Exhibitors at this, the second event, also included food brands associated with wine pairing, with a fine selection of cold meats and cheeses on display.

The host of the event, Farai Chimba, explained, ‘My vision for the hospitality sector is through working with partners such as Wines of South Africa to develop wine tourism supported by the following: •

•

‘Wine education—equipping service personnel with critical and continuous knowledge of wine.

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‘Distribution and awareness of wine brands and knowledge beyond the label by stakeholders in distribution, retail, service and the public.

‘Development of an integrated hub for wine tourism which has a good selection of offerings in the tourism establishments between Kasane, Livingstone and Victoria Falls. This “Golden Triangle”, where we share the same clients and distribution channels, creates opportunities for unique experiences to further develop arrivals based on special interest groups and established market segments.'

Wine tourism is recognised by UNWTO (World Tourism Organization, UN specialised agency) as playing a role in linking culture, history and lifestyle, which the destination and venue provide in Victoria Falls. Diversification of the tourism product includes providing a destination that matches the expectations of the travelling wine tourist to create enriched tourist experiences. All this can be achieved by ensuring that at shop floor service level the importance and appreciation of wine is presented through training and competitions to stimulate better service and knowledge in the region.

WoSA have been instrumental in training hospitality personnel with over 160 trained over the past two years; and also hosting the first Sommelier Cup event in Zimbabwe. The event was won by Takura Makadzange from Mutare who represented Zimbabwe in Cape Town for the World Sommelier Cup final in September, 2019. This platform will be used to identify talent in the wine service industry and create opportunities in the footsteps of established sommeliers in South Africa like Joseph Dhafana. The future plan is to spread the events within Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana. WoSA are playing a huge role in skills development and awareness which will continue to have a footprint on the continent. This prestigious event, sponsored by Wines of South Africa and hosted at the iconic five-star Victoria Falls Hotel, continues to grow in strength and is a must-not-miss calendar event if visiting the region at the time.

Dates for 2020 were released in December, 2019, and information is available for exhibitors and participants through event co-ordinators Lewa & Co. Contact Kuda Hove on: info@lewaandco.com

Across the border—Zimbabwe

Grand Tasting At The Victoria Falls Festival

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Across the border—Zimbabwe

A GUYS’ TRIP THROUGH ZIMBABWE’S MATOBO HILLS

Writer: Bettina Koehler Photography: Bettina Koehler

e drove along the A8 that leads from Victoria Falls to Bulawayo, passing the famous Hwange National Park. I’d organised a celebration of my husband Florian’s 50th birthday in Zimbabwe’s bush, a long way from our home in Germany. Easy enough for someone like me, a tour operator specialising in trips to Southern Africa, and the perfect trip for my husband, who is as passionate about those countries as I am. Along for the ride were his younger brother and two of Florian’s closest friends. Our journey started at the Victoria Falls. In October, the Falls don’t carry much water. The landscape we passed on our way to the Matobo Hills was dry, the savannah

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and bush drenched in golden light. Our trip was supposed to be a guys’ trip, with camping and driving in 4x4s through sand and gravel instead of the more comfortable trips I often organise. We spent a night at an exclusive-use camp site in Hwange National Park and celebrated the birthday night with a delicious dinner at a lodge near the park. Now we were headed to a lesser-known park, one I was visiting for the first time— Matobo National Park, south of the town of Bulawayo. After three hours, we were glad to reach the friendly town of Bulawayo without encountering any of the dreaded ‘road blocks’ set up by Zimbabwean police officers in the hope of some extra money. With two nights camping ahead of us, we went to the local supermarket for some boerewors and fresh milk before entering the park. As we could see from the park warden’s registration book, not many tourists seemed to come here. Soon we left

the paved road, and the guys were happy; now the real off-road adventure could begin.

Matopos National Park, roughly 42,500 hectares, is one of Zimbabwe’s smaller national parks, but it boasts some of the finest and oldest rock paintings on the continent and that is why it was classified a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But what strikes any visitor as much as the caves are the huge boulders and so-called ‘whaleback’ rocks that give this park its distinctive look. Only in Namibia’s Damaraland had I seen such huge egg-shaped rocks. They look as if they’d been stacked on top of each other by a giant.

We had the park virtually to ourselves. Maybe because it was the hot season, or because tourists are still hesitant to come to a country shaken by economic and political unrest, but we had our pick of beautiful camping sites along the Mezilume Dam.

Across the border—Zimbabwe

We pitched our tents, and as the sun set, we raised our G&Ts to this vast and empty land before starting a camp fire for a braai under the stars.

The highlight of the day was another painted cave, Nanke Cave, probably the most beautiful of all. The trail to the cave led through a valley between high whale-back Early the next morning we packed up our rocks, and then uphill for around four tents. We wanted to spend the following night kilometres...we wouldn’t have found it without the guidance of the helpful park at an even more remote camping site in the eastern part of the park. But before that, a day warden. Amazing views opened up once we reached the cave entrance and we could see of hiking and exploring the park lay ahead of the entire park from there. Inside the cave we us. Not far from Mezilume Dam we found the start of a hiking trail to the famous Nswatugi were again delighted by the fine art, painted Cave, known for its stunning late Stone Age thousands of years ago, in red, ochre and paintings, 6,000–10,000 years old, of giraffe, white. Animals and humans covered the walls kudu, other antelope and humans. It had alongside intriguing honeycomb-like shapes. become really hot, so after a rest in the shady cave, we returned to our cars and drove on After the descent, we had just enough time to through the park. After a break at Maleme visit Cecil Rhodes’ grave at World’s View, and Dam, we continued to the eastern part of the to pause at the rhino sanctuary. Then it was park where, to the joy of the guys, we had to time to head back to Bulawayo airport and navigate some seriously rugged tracks. The civilisation. Too little time, we found, for this roads were so steep in parts that I had to jewel of a place and we promised ourselves to jump out of the car and scout the best way return for more. around the many rocks and crevasses. www.african-escapes.de

Bettina Koehler (54) owns a boutique tour company based in Hamburg, Germany, that creates tailor-made trips for individual travellers. She specialises in Southern Africa and lived for several years in Johannesburg working for an in-bound ground handler.

Her love for Southern Africa started with an educational trip to Zimbabwe in 1993, when tourism was then at its peak. In 2006 she opened her own office, IngonyamaAfrican Escapes, organising luxury trips to her favourite part of the world. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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INTRODUING: THE BAYETE COLLECTION

DO VICTORIA FALLS

THE

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VICTORIA

F ALLS,

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ZIMBABWE

Affordable luxury accommodation in the heart of Victoria Falls residential area with fully comprehensive tours & activites desks at each of our lodges. Step into our world...

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L U X U R Y S A FA R I LO D G E Restaurant | Accommodation | Conference Facilities Walking Safaris | Game Drives | Horseback Safaris | Elephant Nursery | Running Trails Lilayi Lodge is a luxury safari lodge located only a short drive from Zambia's capital city, Lusaka. The lodge provides guests with a tranquil escape from the busy city as well as a relaxing stopover to begin and end your Zambian safari adventure. Lilayi Elephant Nursery | Open Daily Viewing 11:30 to 13:00

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ISSUE 16 - JAN – APRIL 2020

Articles inside

Cruising In Paradise

Wines Of South Africa

Zimbabwe's Matobo Hills

Marvellous Mana

Banff Lodge

Five Minutes With Nono

A Bright Future For Matusdona National Park

Highlights From Photo Safaris

Gonarezhou: Zimbabwe's Conservation Success Story

Moringa Initiative Ltd

Young Zambians Dreaming Big And Making A Difference

Edward Selfe Photo Safaris

The Wild Sourplum

Lusaka Collective

People and Places

The Busanga Plains

Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

Shongwe Lookout Guest Lodge

Emma Seaman: People And Places

Benson Kanyembo

There's A Leopard In The Lounge