Issue 12 : Sept to Dec 2018

TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA & ZIMBABWE

SEPTEMBER – DECEMBER 2018 | EDITION 12

Breathtaking

BUMI

NATURE'S WILD ABODE Lower Zambezi Valley

BIG IS BEAUTIFUL Shoebills in Bangweulu

DAVID SHEPHERD

AN HONORARY ZAMBIAN

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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA / SEPTEMBER – DECEMBER 2018

CONTENTS Features

South Luangwa's Amazing New Double Act

By Ian Salisbury

34

Bangweulu: Where Big is Beautiful 10

By Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson

Elephant Check-In

By Mahina Perrot

35

Pastures Greener: Orphaned Elephants

By Sarah Kingdom

16

Mwamba-Kapanda Pride 38

By Thandiwe Mweetwa

With The Flow

By Kelsea Lee

18

Picture Perfect 40

By Mahina Perrot

An Honorary Zambian: David Shepherd

By Sport Beattie

06

Nature's Wild Abode 20

By Sarah Kingdom

The Victoria Falls Hotel

By Sarah Kerr

42

Ladies of Livingstone

By Sarah Kingdom

28

Dining with Nature at Davison's Camp

By Nirvani Pillay

44

Biography: Barry Shenton

By Rolf and Ali Shenton

32

Breathtaking Bumi 46

By Sarah Kingdom

Advertisers’ Index IFC 01 02 03 13 15 22 23

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Mukambi Safaris Mama Tembo Tours Zambia Project Luangwa The Personal Touch Track and Trail River Camp The Bushcamp Company Proflight Zambia Zambian Ground Handlers

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TRAVEL & LEISURE A word from the MD ZAMBIA Publisher Safari Magazine

Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala andrew@zambiatravelmag.com Sub-Editor Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson nicky.dj@sky.com Layout and Art Director Gemma Beardsall gemmakb@hotmail.co.uk Consultant Jo Pope popejo@gmail.com

Website www.zambiatravelmagazine.com

Welcome to Edition 12 of Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe magazine.

It’s exactly three years since we published our first edition on 1st September, 2015. Looking back at the three years of our existence, we can see how the magazine has been growing with each edition in both readership and distribution. We are proud to say that Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe magazine is the country’s preferred travel magazine.

Our website has been redesigned and you can have a look at our previous and current editions on www.zambiatravelmagazine.com, go to issuu.com then search travel and leisure magazine, follow us on Instagram @travelandleisurezambia and you can like our Facebook page Travel and Leisure Zambia.

In Nature’s Wild Abode, we hear from travel writer Sarah Kingdom who has just returned from a safari in the Lower Zambezi National Park (Page 20). I hope too that you will enjoy An Honorary Zambian, Sport Beattie’s tribute to the late (and great) artist David Shepherd (page 6).

You can learn about Bangweulu— ‘the place where the water meets the sky’—from Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson (Page 10), Thandiwe Mweetwa writes about the elusive MwambaKapanda Pride (Page 38), and I chat to a visual artist (Page 26).

Elsewhere in this edition, our travel writer Sarah Kingdom was in Livingstone and had a chat with the Ladies of Livingstone (Page 28), there’s a biography of Barry Shenton (Page 32), and the story of the birth of hippo twins (Page 34) makes lovely reading.

Across the border, Zimbabwe is on the rise. Sarah Kerr writes about ‘the grand old lady of the Falls’, The Victoria Falls Hotel (Page 42), and Sarah Kingdom tells us about Lake Kariba, the world’s largest man-made lake (Page 46).

HAPPY READING! APOLOGY Travel & Leisure Zambia and Zimbabwe would like to apologise most sincerely to Track and River Camp for the error that occurred in the May-August 2018 | Edition 11 of the magazine when incorrect photographs were used to accompany the article by Seb Loram entitled CAPTURE SUMMERTIME IN SOUTH LUANGWA. This was due to a communication breakdown and was not the fault of the magazine’s sub-editor. We also extend our apologies to our sub-editor, Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson, for a title error that occurred in our Jan-April 2018 | Edition 10. We deeply regret both these errors.

We would much appreciate any feedback, good or bad, that our readers might like to send us. We are constantly striving to achieve a high standard of professionalism and to produce an informative and insightful magazine for you to enjoy. We would love to hear from you as it would help us to know if we’re on the right track.

Please contact Andrew Muswala (editor) on: andrew@zambiatravelmag.com

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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Subscriptions ads@zambiatravelmag.com +260 977 308 711

Contributors Ian Salisbury, Nirvani Pillay, Wilderness Safaris, Sarah Kingdom, African Bush Camps, Sarah Kerr, Mahina Perrot, The Bushcamp Company, Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson, Frank Willems, Sport Beattie, Game Rangers International, David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation, The Elephant Orphanage Project, Shenton Safaris, Edward Selfe, Kelsea Lee, Time + Tide, Anabezi Camp, Rolf Shenton, Ali Shenton, Thandiwe Mweetwa, Zambian Carnivore Programme, Mukambi Safaris, René Kahlé, Esnala Banda

Submissions We welcome editorial and photographic submissions to the magazine. Accompanying images should be sent in high-res jpg and minimum 3MB in size. Please send a synopsis of the proposed article to andrew@zambiatravelmag.com for consideration.

Printers New Horizon Printing Press Plot # LUS/9815/H Kafue Road, Lusaka, Zambia

Copyright Copyright © All rights for material appearing in this magazine belong to Travel & Leisure Zambia and/or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or with due acknowledgement.

On the cover

Shoebill in Bangweulu Swamps Photo credit: Frank Willems

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ZAMBIA

an Honorary zambian A tribute to the late David Shepherd, CBE 25th April 1931 – 19th September 2017

Writer: Sport Beattie, Game Rangers International from all around the world. They were not Photography: Courtesy of the David Shepherd simply curios bought in a shop—each one Wildlife Foundation of them had a story attached to it and if you

F

irst of all, allow me to say that it is a real privilege and a great honour to write this article about David Shepherd, CBE and a giant amongst men, whom I shall never forget. I hope these few words may do justice to his amazing legacy.

I first met David and his beautiful wife, Avril, at their wonderful Brooklands Farm in the English countryside. I had just left the British Army and by a small twist of fate’s kind hand I found myself as David’s volunteer driver. Like anyone who has ever been fortunate enough to visit this wonder-filled home, I was immediately welcomed like an old friend. If you had time—which I did—you were afforded a personalised tour of David’s studio-cumgallery, which could be reached via an underground tunnel, accessed down a flight of steps leading from a ‘secret’ door in the pantry!

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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

cared to listen, David would recall them for you. He was a gifted storyteller—a talent he used to great effect to raise awareness and millions of dollars for wildlife conservation.

During the six months that I drove David around to his many public speaking events, I had a unique, front seat opportunity to listen and learn from one of the world’s greatest ambassadors for wildlife. Through this friendship, if I may be so honoured to call it that, I came to appreciate the amazing and relentless journey he had embarked upon to save endangered species. It was a journey whose end he knew he would probably never see, but one he undertook anyway—such is the DNA of a visionary. In my own words, I share some of it with you here...

From a tender age David had always wanted to become a game ranger in Africa. Soon after finishing school, he sailed to Kenya and marched up to the Kenya Wildlife Service chief warden and promptly announced that he was ‘Reporting for duty, sir!’. He was ‘politely’ told to go back Lit by the dim glow of World War II lanhome. It was one of those ‘sliding doors’ terns, the tunnel had the effect of creating moments—had he been accepted I would mystique and intrigue. As you negotiated certainly not be writing this article. In fact, the stairs into the gallery your senses were all of us who have ever benefited from on high alert— they needed to be, for all the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation, around you the walls and easels were filled including the Kenya Wildlife Service itself, with David’s works of art. And here, in this owe a great deal of thanks to the lifeethereal, grand old room, one could see and changing decision that warden made. almost feel a summary of David’s life, captured by his own brush strokes on So David returned home and was faced canvas, of all the passions which were dear with the prospect of becoming a bus to him. driver...or joining art school. He chose the latter, but the Slade School in London No matter how many times you visited the unceremoniously rejected him for a lack of Shepherd family home you would always talent. At every event where I saw David see something new... for instance, the speak he always carried with him the model railway set which filled most of the artwork that got him ‘discarded’— it was of attic and was enough to make any boy or a seagull flying above an ominous-looking avid collector green with envy. Aside from sea. Many years later David relished reelephants, David’s other great love was counting the story of his failed application steam engines. The walls and mantelpieces to one of the ‘top’ art schools. were adorned with relics and memorabilia

Following rejection, and at one of the most deflated points in his life, the kind hand of fate dealt him an opportunity disguised as luck. A friend of his had invited David to accompany him to a function in London.

Unwillingly he obliged, and by chance he met the artist Robin Goodwin. Not one to give up easily, David asked this amazing gentleman if he would be willing to teach him, to which Robin replied emphatically, ‘No!’. Undeterred, David sought him out in Hyde Park a few days later and presented to him for his opinion the infamous seagull painting. Mr. Goodwin remarked, ‘Anyone with such poor artistic flair surely does need a bit of help!’ and so, begrudgingly, he allowed David the chance to watch him work for a little while.

David was told not to talk unless spoken to—perhaps Robin thought David would lose interest after a few hours and leave him in peace; but David had other plans!

A few hours became a few days, became a few weeks and finally Mr. Goodwin relented. The only speaking though that David was allowed to do was to ask questions about art. You can imagine how hard this must have been for someone who had a natural talent for talking.

Through this unique and informal apprenticeship, which spanned many years, David learnt to paint on the streets of London, eventually becoming an accomplished artist in his own right. David and Robin Goodwin remained life-long friends. During his talks you would always hear David express his deepest gratitude for the leap of faith this wonderful man took with him. Perhaps it was because of this gesture afforded to him that David spent the rest of his life helping others

to achieve their dreams and aspirations— myself included.

However, it was whilst painting on the apron at Heathrow Airport that David was spotted by an RAF officer, who invited him to Aden to paint a scene for the Officer’s Mess. Whilst out in Aden, David was spotted by another RAF officer, this time from Kenya, who invited him to fly to a remote airstrip in the African bush, where he was commissioned to paint a delinquent black rhino that had become renowned for charging an old Dakota as it took off from the grassy runway. David expressed concern to the officer that he had never painted wildlife before, but eager for the opportunity to return to the African bush, he accepted the commission—and the rest, as they say, is history. It’s almost ironic that the painting of that black rhino (then not an endangered species) would catapult David’s work into stardom and allow him eventually to establish his own foundation to raise much needed funding for endangered species protection.

Just as David’s fame was really beginning to soar, he was commissioned by the British Government to commemorate the lowering of the Union Jack for the last time in Northern Rhodesia and the raising of the Zambian flag for the first time when independence was granted to this great nation on 26th October, 1964. During that historic visit he was hosted at State House by His Excellency the (first) President of Zambia, Dr. Kenneth Kaunda. Therein began a 50-year love affair with Zambia, its people and its wildlife. Since then, David has returned so many times to

ABOUT THE AUTHOR SPORT BEATTIE Sport is the founder and chief executive officer of Game Rangers International (GRI). Originally from Zimbabwe, he has a conservation and military background. Following a two- year stint in Cambodia training former Khmer Rouge fighters to become operational rangers, Sport established the GRI Elephant Orphanage Project in Zambia. A decade later this entity has grown into a fully fledged non-governmental organisation (NGO), which currently employs 85 full-time staff and empowers 125 frontline rangers.

GRI embraces a holistic approach to conservation. It works across three key thematic areas: resource protection, community outreach and wildlife rescue.

Sport’s goal is to empower 500-plus rangers to secure 50,000 square kilometres by 2020. His long-term vision is to grow the organisation into a truly global entity, capable of deploying the replication and expansion of the GRI ranger empowerment model across multiple conservation landscapes beyond the current footprint in Zambia.

Photo Captions:

Left, top: David, by his daughter Mandy Shepherd, who has inherited her father’s artistic talent Left, bottom: Young David Shepherd in his studio Right: David is most amused by the antics of Phoenix, a very cheeky little elephant

TRAVEL & & LEISURE LEISURE ZAMBIA ZAMBIA TRAVEL

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Zambia that, much to his pleasure, he was once described by the Fourth President, His Excellency Mr. Rupiah Bwezani Banda, as a Zambian living in the UK!

Little did I know when driving David all those years ago that I would be working with him to establish Zambia’s first elephant orphanage project—an initiative which remained very dear to his heart throughout his life. In addition to this, David also helped to support the establishment of Zambia’s Special Anti-Poaching Unit (SAPU), now one of the most successful anti-poaching and anti-trafficking units fighting wildlife crime in the region.

Photo Captions: Top: David, with one of his best known elephant paintings entitled The Ivory is Theirs Bottom: David with the writer of this article, Sport Beattie

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His artwork and support to conservation education has inspired tens of thousands of school children to become the next generation of wildlife guardians. His legacy is truly immense. It reaches far and wide on a global scale—from boots on the ground to ‘planes and helicopters in the sky and the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation has made a significant contribution to wildlife conservation, which now runs into tens of millions of dollars.

David died I had the good fortune once more to visit him at his Brooklands home.

Ever charismatic, he joked about his old age and his frailty, but he was adamant that he would come to visit us again at Camp Phoenix in Kafue National Park to see his beloved elephants and to greet the Zambian keepers who loved him like their own grandfather.

Sadly, David never did make it back to Zambia, but on the very same day when he quietly slipped away, a big bull elephant walked right into Camp Phoenix—something which had never happened before.

He sought out the matriarch of the orphan herd, Chamilandu, and mounted her in full view of all the keepers. The old bull elephant stuck around for a few days, staying close to his new-found love. His uncanny presence caused much speculation amongst the staff that David’s spirit had in fact returned, albeit in the shape of the bull elephant. It warms my heart to believe this to be true.

Nowadays, whenever I see an old bull elephant I think of David and I remember all that he has done for wildlife and the great leap of faith he took with me. He was an amazing man and I will never forget him.

If you ever wanted to see a happy man, you only had to be present at a ceremony where David was handing over a cheque for wildlife protection and conservation. It gave The David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation him the greatest of joys to know that he was continues David’s incredible legacy to fight wildlife crime, protect endangered spehelping to fight the good fight. cies and engage with communities on the ground. To find out how you can support its I have had the great privilege and honour vital work in Zambia visit to drive David both in the bush and in www.davidshepherd.org England. I can safely say he was always happiest in the African bush. Just before

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from the air while flying over the Bangweulu Wetlands, with its herds of black lechwe. Of course the Victoria Falls is also breathtaking… and Liuwa Plains with its wildebeest are also amazing to see.’

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Bangweulu Where Big is Beautiful

Writer: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson Photography: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson, Frank Willems

S

omewhere in the remote watery wastes of northern Zambia’s Bangweulu Wetlands, an immense area of some 15,000 square kilometres and always known to me as the Bangweulu Swamps, lives an avian giant: the shoebill. I had pored over maps of Zambia for years, and listened spellbound as a friend described the spectacle laid out beneath the wings of his ‘plane as he flew over lake and grassland, woodland and river.

The Bangweulu Wetlands form the heart of the Great Bangweulu Basin but the wetlands do not consist solely of an aquatic wilderness. It is true that Lake Bangweulu forms part of this seemingly limitless expanse, an area which floods in the wet season between November and March and is fed by 17 rivers but drained by only one, the Luapula. But here too is miombo woodland…and grassland plains with shimmering horizons, giving succour to land animals which must adapt when their home range is seasonally flooded.

Bangweulu means ‘the place where the water meets the sky’; and it was here that I must go to search for shoebills… but how?

Leslie Nevison of Lusaka-based Mama Tembo Tours had the answer. To fulfil my wish to explore the shoebill’s domain she organised a four-wheel-drive vehicle as transport, plus the services of a wonderful guide, Zambian artist Quentin Allen.

Since 2008 African Parks, in partnership with the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) and Community Resource Boards (CRBs), has administered this community-owned ecosystem under the title of the Bangweulu Wetland Management Board. I visited in 2016, when, unlike now, Shoebill Island Camp was operational. At that time the camp was administered by the Kasanka Trust.

However, shortly after my visit, African Parks took over managing the camp and at the time of writing it is closed and undergoing a complete overhaul following plans to upgrade the accommodation.

There are two ways to reach Shoebill Island: by air or road. There is a small airstrip called Chimbwe near Chikuni, or you drive.

We drove from Kasanka National Park and our journey was memorable. Initially, we headed towards Lake Waka Waka on a pretty bad road, stopping at the campsite there to admire the deep-blue and springwater-fed lake. We then turned sharp left, towards Chiundaponde. The road was appalling, with cavernous potholes, and it took all of Quentin’s driving skills to keep

us on track. But it was when we arrived at Muwele that things began to go awry: there were no signs anywhere. Eventually, after many questions as to which road to take to Chikuni, we reached a National Parks office. After paying the necessary fee we proceeded, but still no signs. Eventually, we saw grasslands stretching as far as the eye could see, but with no indication of where to go. There was a causeway in front of us, and we made the mistake of driving to the right of this, landing up in the middle of a herd of black lechwe. On we drove, eventually reaching some huts. Luckily someone appeared—Lewis from Shoebill Camp—who told us to retrace our steps, keep to the left of the causeway and we would come to Chikuni Research Post. And indeed we did.

outstanding feature is its huge bill, hence the name. It also has bright yellow eyes and noticeably large feet. Shoebills are slow-moving birds, stalking their prey with deliberate tread and often remaining completely still, awaiting the right moment to strike. Their preferred diet is fish, and in the Bangweulu Swamps it has been specifically noted that catfish and water snakes are fed to their young. Food is regurgitated straight from the gullet of the adult into the bill of the chick, and both parents guard and care for their nestlings, of which usually only one reaches full maturity although the female may lay between one and three eggs.

The shoebill is fully geared towards energy efficiency and will typically wait for hours for the perfect large catfish to come up to the surface to breathe; a catch such as this Leaving the vehicle at Chikuni, we walked could provide a sufficient meal to satisfy the short distance to one of the channels the bird for a whole day. Their commonly along which Lewis and his colleague, the splendidly named Tarzan, would pole us by reported preference for lungfish seems a myth created by early European explorers. canoe to the camp. The light was beautiful However, shoebills will also consume as we moved slowly along the waterways, passing exquisite white and blue water lilies frogs and other small wetland creatures, but usually only when large catfish do not and prolific birdlife including spoonbill, present themselves or when feeding their squacco heron, wattled crane and lesser young forces them to be less selective. jacana. Upon arrival at Shoebill Island Camp I was shown to my accommodation: a large tent with attached shower and loo facilities. Dinner was served in a separate building nearby, and afterwards I returned to my tent, marvelling at the myriads of incredible stars above. During the night I heard hyenas (spotted hyenas who prey on lechwe—there are no big cats here); and in the small hours what sounded to me like the multiple flushing of lots of loos – it was lechwe in the water, Shoebill located, we drove to the edge of crossing from one side to the other. Sadly, the swamp. Lewis and Tarzan waded in to I never managed to catch this spectacle on recce the scene, returning to summon us camera as they were too far away. in, too. I was wearing Wellingtons, but at the first step the water was way over the The next day, in the early morning chill, top of them. We were walking on floating after tea and biscuits followed by a good vegetation, and progress was laborious. breakfast, we returned to Chikuni by boat, After struggling along for about quarter of collected the vehicle and set off in search an hour, suddenly, about 200 metres away, of shoebills, accompanied by Lewis and we spotted a tall, gigantic bird—my longTarzan. Vehicle tracks were barely visible held shoebill wish was realised at last. I was on the very dry ground and I wondered so excited but it was difficult trying to stand where on earth we were heading, but we still on what felt like a waterbed. I balanced had met up with some fishermen who my camera on Tarzan’s shoulder, clicked told us that shoebills had been seen in the away and hoped for the best. Quentin vicinity. Undoubtedly the best way to try thought it was all too wonderful and and spot a shoebill is from on high. So, in promptly lay down spread-eagled, declaring the middle of seemingly nowhere, but with that he wasn’t moving. How I regret not a solitary sausage tree and some bushes taking a photo but I was too busy trying to breaking up the flat landscape, Lewis instructed Quentin to stop the vehicle...and balance. Eventually, shoebill-satiated, we made our way back, and I clung to Tarzan’s then promptly shinned up the tree. Tarzan hand to try and stay upright. scrambled up a bush, and between them

Bangweulu means ‘the place where the water meets the sky’

they located a shoebill. In fact we were not far from a swampy area, a favourite haunt of the shoebill, which makes its home deep in the papyrus-thick vegetation.

The shoebill (Balaeniceps rex), is a big, heavy blue-grey bird, weighing anything between four to seven kilogrammes. Its

The rest of the day was spent in wet, soggy socks but I didn’t care. In Bangweulu there is other wildlife to seek out besides shoebills, and after we left their swampy habitat we headed for the grasslands and the prolific herds of endemic black lechwe (Kobus leche ssp. smithemani),

listed as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. These handsome animals sport shoe-polish-shiny thick coats and are only found in this region of northern Zambia; in 2015 their numbers were estimated at around 49,000. Their hooves are designed for ease of passage in water, being elongated and spreading.

The animals propel themselves through the water, pushing off in leaps from their strong hind legs which are longer than the front legs, maximising the length of each single leap. Only the males have horns. This subspecies of lechwe is as much at home in the water as on land and they are an important feature of the Bangweulu region.

We also went looking for the Bangweulu tsessebe (Damaliscus lunatus ssp. superstes). These antelope are endemic to the termitaria, a unique habitat of short grassland plains dotted with thousands of tiny forest patches growing on the large mounds built by termite colonies. We were in luck, coming across a big herd (maybe as many as 400) of these very shy but impressive animals, their coppery colours making them look like bronze sculptures.

I noticed that some individuals appeared to be shedding their winter coats. These antelope are one of six subspecies of topi and are known for their remarkable speed.

The Bangweulu population is completely isolated from any other tsessebe or topi populations (none occur within some 500 kilometres in any direction) and indeed genetic studies suggest it might even be treated as a separate species.

That evening I met the exceptionally knowledgeable Frank Willems, who had flown in with two keen birdwatchers. Frank is an ecologist, birder and private guide, and he and I struck up good conversation. Once Frank learnt that I was genuinely interested in wildlife he couldn’t do enough to help me, producing creatures for me to inspect and photograph. These included a splendid olive marsh snake, a grassland ridged frog and a marbled snout-burrower—another species of frog.

I had one more day left and went down to the water early to watch as dawn slowly broke and flocks of birds flew over—dark swirling shapes silhouetted against the lightening sky. Before the sun came up I watched young boys fishing from a mokoro (dugout canoe, plural mekoro), then, as the sun hoisted itself over the horizon, the water became suffused in a lengthening orange glow. Quentin was quietly sketching.

The question: what to do today? The answer: look for more shoebills.

We followed the same procedure, again accompanied by Lewis and Tarzan. And this time Frank and his two clients came with us. As we drove along the side of the swamp Frank was the first to spot a huge head poking out of the thick vegetation.

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The shoebill took off before I could focus properly, but it was wonderful to see the great bird and its characteristic flight pattern, long legs dangling and clearly visible. Again Lewis managed to identify a shoebill in the swamps from a tree, but by the time he and Tarzan had plunged in to try to find it the bird had taken flight. But we saw five birds in all today, flying high above the papyrus, and I was well pleased with our tally.

There were very few tsessebe when we returned to the termitaria woodland region, but we did come across two Denham’s bustard (also known as Stanley’s bustard), a lovely big bird with attractive coloration.

Bangweulu is a superb place for birds, and the density and diversity of species quite unparalleled. The list is long but ‘specials’ include wattled crane (15% of the world’s population), blue-breasted bee-eater, swamp flycatcher, African skimmer, lesser jacana, and vast numbers of herons, storks, spoonbills and ducks, as well as four species of vulture. Barely a second passes without sight of a bird somewhere…

‘the principal market for shoebills removed from the wild are private zoos—for instance in the Middle East—as well as historically in zoos throughout Europe and the US.’ Yes, I thought, this extraordinary, almost prehistoric-looking bird would certainly attract interest in captivity. But that’s not where it belongs. Its home is in marshes, reed beds and papyrus-rich swamplands of the countries in which it is found— primarily the Sudd region of South Sudan,

Uganda, and here in the wonderful wild wetlands of Zambia—in Bangweulu—where big is certainly very beautiful in the eye of this beholder.

Writer’s note: I would like to thank Frank Willems for his invaluable input and help in checking the facts and figures for this article.

My shoebill safari was at an end. It had been all I’d wished for…and more. Before we left, I sat down with Frank Willems and asked him a few questions. I wanted to know roughly how many shoebills were to be found in Bangweulu, and he told me around 400, possibly less, and that they are classified as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List. What was the greatest threat to their survival? He replied, ‘Poaching for the pet trade is the core threat for shoebills globally.

The shoebill is the rhino of the birds as far as illegal trade is concerned.’ He went on,

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Photo Captions

Previous: Young boy with net at sunrise Below, Left Top: Male black lechwe

Below, Left Bottom: As evening approaches, a young boy poles along in a laden mokoro

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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Below, Right: Photograph courtesy of Frank Willems

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Know Your African Wildlife:

Crowned Cranes

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Writer: Edward Selfe Photography: Edward Selfe

rowned cranes are elegant, unmistakable birds, standing over a metre tall and topped with a golden crown of plume-like feathers. They carry bright red wattles below the chin which contrast sharply with their grey, white and chestnut plumage. They are longlegged, with large splayed feet allowing them to walk briskly through damp marshland areas where they forage for food.

As with all cranes, these birds are shy and rarely confident around people. They maintain a safe distance, preferring to start moving off long before you reach them, avoiding the need to run or fly at the last moment. However, when we do get close, we find a bird of delicate beauty; tightly feathered heads give the impression of being carved from porcelain, and impeccable preening keeps their long tail feathers in perfect order.

pairs disperse to breed at the start of the rains.

adult body shape before they grow all their feathers so there is an interim stage where they look quite unusual. When the immature Nesting takes place in flooded grassland; the plumage has grown they closely resemble pair folds grass and reeds to make a raised their parents, but without the rich red pad that is screened on all sides by wattle and the striking golden crown. vegetation. Here they lay two to three eggs and incubate for around three weeks. The Known as crested cranes in some areas, chicks are entirely dependent on their these are one of the world’s most striking Southern crowned cranes are predomparents for the first four months until they birds, among a family that has several inantly grey, showing a gradual change fledge.

Even after that, they will stay with members who might make that claim. from grey at the head to almost black at the parents until around 10 months. At this Cranes are intelligent birds that sit high the rump and vent. Northern crowned stage, the adults are even more secretive up the biodiversity ladder; it’s known that cranes are much blacker, appearing than normal, but the families can occasionalcranes will be one of the earliest species sooty and very dark. The two species inhabit the same ecological niche, but are ly be seen in moist grassland, stamping their to die out when conditions become less feet to dislodge small prey for the chicks to favourable through human or natural effects. separated geographically. As with other catch.

Luangwa’s cranes are particularly vulneracranes, they feed on a variety of amphibible to plans for a dam across the Luangwa ans and invertebrates, reptiles and seeds.

As they grow up, the chicks begin to obtain River which will destroy large parts of their They stalk slowly through grasslands vital feeding and breeding areas. hunting small prey, or occasionally stamp their adult plumage. They develop the their feet to disturb potential food.

They are most often on the ground, though they do fly very strongly when required. They usually roost in trees and descend early in the morning to start feeding; it is common to find pairs foraging at dawn, long before sunrise.

Pairs are the most common social unit, since they form a long-term pair bond throughout their lives.

Courtship time draws large numbers of cranes from a wide area to repeatedly used sites. In the South Luangwa, these are most often at natural salt pans, and it’s not uncommon to see hundreds of cranes together, performing ritual courtship dances and emitting an unusual booming call. Once pair-bonds have been reaffirmed, and new bonds forged, the

For more in the ‘Know Your African Wildlife’ series, visit: www.edwardselfephotography.com Edward is a seasoned safari guide and specialist photo safari operator based year-round in South Luangwa National Park.

Photo credit: René Kahlé Giant kingfisher in Kafue National Park TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

15

Pastures Greener

Help at Hand for Orphaned Elephants

Writer: Sarah Kingdom Photography: The Elephant Orphanage Project

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007…South Luangwa National Park, Zambia…an elephant, aged one and a half years, is left alone and helpless when her mother is shot dead by poachers. The orphaned calf is taken to what is now the Game Rangers International (GRI) Kafue Release Facility (Camp Phoenix) to be raised. Healthy, but understandably traumatised, Chamilandu, as she was named, struggled to come to terms with the loss of both her mother and extended family. Suffering nightmares that had her screaming aloud in her sleep, it took a great deal of love and attention from dedicated keepers to give her the reassurance she needed to adjust to her new life.

In the intervening years, Chamilandu has grown into the matriarch of the orphan herd, mothering and comforting the younger orphaned calves as one tragedy or another has brought them to the orphanage. She has recently started to demonstrate her desire to live independently in the bush, going on longer and longer forays alone, away from Camp Phoenix. She has been seen interacting and mating with a wild bull in the park, a positive sign that she is ready to create new ‘family/friendship’ bonds and is preparing herself for a life in the wild…the ultimate goal of her rescuers all those years ago.

We first saw Chamilandu on a game drive in Kafue National Park, Zambia’s oldest and largest national park and one of Africa’s wildest. We were on our way to Camp Phoenix to see the orphan herd coming in for their lunch break after a morning in the bush… and the group was close to the road. The

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keepers were tucked out of sight, allowing the small herd to graze freely, but still under their protective surveillance. Chamilandu, wearing a radio collar in preparation for her anticipated ‘move’, was in a playful mood. She got closer and closer to us, shaking her head from side to side in a slightly comical fashion, as we slowly reversed the car. Eventually we slipped past the herd and went ahead to await the group’s arrival.

We were met at Camp Phoenix and shown the ‘kitchen’, where bottles are filled with the correct ‘recipe’ for each youngster, and then escorted to the main elephant boma from where we could see the orphans ambling ‘home’.

‘Home’, an enclosure of about 10 hectares, is located on the bend of a river and fenced to make it predator proof. Once the elephants got close to the boma, they picked up speed and were soon clamouring at the gate to be let in for their bottles and piles of pellets that form their lunch time feed.

Elephants in Africa are under serious threat, primarily due to large-scale poaching for ivory and also as a result of conflicts arising from elephant/human interactions. It is estimated that 25,000 elephants are being killed in Africa every year…this works out at approximately one elephant killed every 15 minutes.

Having visited the older orphans in Kafue, I was keen to visit the Elephant Orphanage Project’s Lilayi Elephant Nursery, which is situated on a 650-hectare game farm on the outskirts of Lusaka. Under the age of three, young elephants are extremely vulnerable and dependent. Most will not survive without both their mother’s care and her nutrient-rich milk. The first port of call for any orphan rescued anywhere within Zambia is the Lilayi Elephant Nursery, and it is here that these fragile babies are looked after 24 hours a

day—a milk-dependent orphan requires a bottle of its special formula every three hours!

Trained keepers care for, and watch over, their charges constantly, taking them on daily ‘bush walks’, feeding them and staying close at hand to provide reassurance when the babies are in the stables at night. These keepers play a vital role in the emotional and social recovery of the young elephants, and become the ‘mother figures’ the babies desperately need.

Elephants are tactile and highly sociable and the keepers become the orphans’ ‘new family’, maintaining physical contact with the babies, talking to them and showing them the same affection their wild elephant family would.

As the orphans gain more confidence, human contact is gradually reduced and they are encouraged to turn to the other elephants for comfort, rather than the keepers. This is an important part of their rehabilitation.

The orphans need to be watched over at all times. For the first few months of a baby’s life, they need to be covered with blankets when cold, rainwear when wet and natural sunscreen (like a mud bath) when out in the sun.

The Elephant Orphanage Project was established in 2007, with critical and on-going funding from the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation (DSWF), the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) and the Olsen Animal Trust, with the mission of rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing orphaned elephants back into the wild. The Elephant Orphanage Project is part of a conservation initiative developed and operated by Game Rangers International, a Zambian and not-for-profit NGO. For further information about Game Rangers International and the Elephant Orphanage in particular visit: http://gamerangersinternational.org

Baby elephants are difficult feeders and their minders need endless patience to encourage them to drink sufficient milk for growth. Like humans, baby elephants also need toys and stimulation, and so distractions and entertainment have to be built into their daily routine.

An elephant will only thrive if happy.

As soon as calves can be weaned from milk (at approximately three years old), they are moved from Lusaka to the Release Facility in Kafue National Park where they join older orphaned elephants. Here they learn to live more independently and spend much of their time wandering freely through the bush.

The Kafue Release Facility is adjacent to the ancient Ngoma Teak Forest where there is a 1,000-strong local elephant population, maximising chances for the orphans to integrate with other elephants and gradually move back into the wild.

12th June, 2018 and the latest rescue baby joins the Elephant Orphanage Project (EOP), with one of its most rapid response rescues to date. In the early hours of the morning an alert was raised that a six-month-old calf had been found abandoned in Livingstone. The

baby was quickly rescued and transferred to the nearby ‘Elephant Café’, where it was stabilised, fed, watered and calmed by the presence of the other elephants (who are resident at the ‘Café’). Meanwhile, the team in Lusaka worked rapidly to fly a purpose-built crate down to Livingstone. The baby was then mildly sedated and crated, ready for her upcoming journey—a two-hour flight to Lusaka followed by an hour-long drive to the Elephant Nursery, where she was safely tucked up in bed by 8.30 pm.

The little calf is currently known as #43, in honour of being the 43rd elephant assisted by EOP. Although initial signs are good, she won’t be named until her survival is more certain.

She is still very vulnerable and traumatised.

Safely in the orphanage, she is getting to know her keepers and being regularly fed specialised milk formula. Like all the young elephants at the orphanage, she has a long and difficult road ahead to overcome the loss of her family, learn how to integrate and socialise with other elephants and ultimately grow into a healthy adult who will hopefully ultimately walk free.

It costs a lot to raise an orphan and give them a second chance in life—a lot more than you might think—from rescue to release and beyond, including post release monitoring and research. Rescues alone can vary widely in cost depending on the area in which the calf is found. In some instances special vehicles, boats or even ‘planes need to be hired; add to that scout and tracker fees, then vet fees which can include quarantine, sedatives, blood tests and various medications, and don’t forget the cost of ‘manpower’. An ‘average’ rescue can be in the region of US$2,500.

And once an orphan is rescued, costs continue to mount. With a staff of 27 at the Kafue Release Facility and another 17 at the Lilayi Elephant Nursery, wages are not an insignificant cost to be factored in. Feeding, veterinary, maintenance, communications…the list goes on. There are 18 orphans currently being cared for between the two facilities, each costing approximately US$35,000 a year…the Elephant Orphanage Project has an operating budget in the region of US$600,000 a year, which is an enormous struggle to secure.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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Lower Zambezi

With The Flow Seeking the Spirit of the Lower Zambezi

Writer: Kelsea Lee Photography: Time + Tide

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rom the first sight of the Lower Zambezi through the small window of a Cessna, the importance of rivers to this region is undeniable. Bands of steely grey water wind languidly between grassy banks dotted with thick groves of trees.

Hidden just beneath the surface, braided banks of sand provide refuge for hippos, their rounded backs clustered together.

Flocks of brilliant white egrets fly over the river, evoking a land before time and inviting you in to discover and explore.

A safari through the Lower Zambezi is more than a series of game drives; it is an

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adventure that spans a variety of ways of exploration. Yes, it is a game drive with lions and leopards, but it is also a keeneyed walking safari in search of birds, a boat cruise with fishing rod in hand, and a tranquil paddle past a family of thirsty elephants. Of all these activities, none better encompasses the spirit of the Lower Zambezi than a canoeing safari.

A canoeing safari blends the up-close encounters with large animals like elephants and buffalo, characteristic of a game drive, with the unobtrusive nature of a walking safari when, thanks to your near silence, the wildlife is not bothered by your presence. Without the noise and smells that

come with a game-drive vehicle, a captivating new level of interaction comes about between man and animal. It no longer feels like one party simply observing the other; but rather two beings sharing a moment in time, where both are relaxed and mutually curious.

From the safety of the canoe, you can drift past elephants as they dip their trunks into the river and let loose a deluge of water into their mouths. You can glide past buffalo as they rest on the grassy banks and observe herds of waterbuck as they graze quietly on tender shoots. Even the herons tiptoeing through the reeds and the kingfishers perched attentively on low-hanging

Lower Zambezi

branches are not concerned that you are there, too.

From the bow of your canoe, you can join an age-old tradition of scanning the banks for the tell-tale signs of life hidden amidst the foliage. Birdwatchers will rejoice in the sheer abundance and diversity of avian species that can be found in the Lower Zambezi—there are over 500. You can watch as African skimmers glide mere centimetres off the surface and fish eagles snatch up a silvery bream with a splash. In the dry riverbanks, you can study a grid of small holes, waiting for the colourful heads of bee-eaters to poke out before they burst forth in a flurry of vibrant plumage,

pursuing the insects hovering in the golden light.

At a time when travellers crave authenticity and genuine connections with the world around them, a canoeing safari through the Lower Zambezi joins you to a long line of people who have explored these riverbanks using nothing but the power of their own paddles. Before vehicles ever made their way to this remote corner of the world, boats were an essential part of the traditional lifestyle. With each stroke through the olive-green waters, you come a little closer to understanding the soul the of the Lower Zambezi, a soul shared by countless lives over thousands of years.

No safari experience in the Lower Zambezi would be complete without taking to the water with a paddle in your hand. As a stand-alone activity and as a component in an overall safari experience, canoeing is a wonderful way to gain a deeper understanding and appreciation of this spectacular land. So, clear your mind, awaken your soul…and don’t forget your camera and binoculars!

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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Lower Zambezi Writer: Sarah Kingdom Photography: Anabezi Camp

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he Lower Zambezi Valley, with its majestic escarpment sloping down to meet the river, protects a 4,092-square-kilometre national park which lies on the northern banks of the Zambezi River in southeastern Zambia. The escarpment along the north acts as a physical barrier as the bulk of the park is hilly ground; most of the game is concentrated on the flat valley floor, beside the deep, wide river.

A relatively undeveloped park, the beauty of the Lower Zambezi is in its wildness. The diversity of animals is not as wide as in some parks, but here there are endless opportunities to get right up close to the wildlife. The park lies opposite the famous Mana Pools Reserve in Zimbabwe, so both sides of the river form a huge wildlife sanctuary. Until 1983, when it was declared a national park, the area was the private game reserve of Zambia’s president; and as a result was protected from the ravages of mass tourism, leaving it a relatively pristine wilderness.

Most visitors arrive by boat or light aircraft. Tourist numbers are limited by the park’s relative inaccessibility, and unless you have some pretty good off-road driving experience and come at the right time of year, it is not advisable to attempt a road trip. We had felt a bit of an adventure was in order and so decided to drive…

After a five-and-a-half-hour drive from Lusaka, you reach the park gate. Once we had paid our entry fees and completed all the necessary paperwork, we set off into the unknown—no maps, no signposts and, frankly, no real clue where we were heading! All we knew was that we had a further 50- or 60-kilometre drive ahead. We didn’t see another person or vehicle on our drive, but three hours later, after a couple of mildly nerve-wracking, wide stream crossings, we arrived at Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp. Located in the remote and beautiful eastern end of the national park, Anabezi has been built where the Zambezi River and the Mushika Flood Plain meet. I could see why, in British colonial days, the area had been chosen on which to build the governor’s personal retreat—we would see the ruins of the now derelict building while out on one of our game drives. The camp is perched on the top of the river bank, built on raised timber decks with wooden walkways, with the Zambezi escarpment forming a beautiful backdrop.

As soon as you arrive at Anabezi you feel an atmosphere of understated luxury. We got there in time for lunch and a ‘power nap’, before heading out on a game drive.

Sometimes, while on safari, it is easy to forget about the ‘little things’, but on our drive that night, after we’d seen herds of waterbuck and impala, and enjoyed some really special sightings of lions, Prisley, our guide, switched off the engine and the lights and we sat in the dark, revelling in the sounds of the night. The air pulsated with the chorus of innumerable crickets, baboons moaned and complained as they settled down for the night; hippos grunted in the distance… this was the true essence of the bush.

It wasn’t only out on drives that we were surrounded by wildlife—animals were all around us in camp. A pair of mating lions had set up their ‘honeymoon suite’ no more

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than 60 metres from our room (and remained ‘honeymooning’ every 20 minutes, for the next three days).

Elephants wandered just below the verandah at lunchtime; more elephants tore branches off trees behind us in the dark while we ate our dinner. Hippos had late night pool parties in the channel below our room and lions roared throughout the night. Squirrels raced up and down the walkways, almost underfoot, while under the walkway a family of warthogs was permanently occupied digging up the grass.

Not far from camp was a beautiful winter thorn forest where we spent a wonderful morning, accompanied by families of waterbuck, herds of impala and an impressive selection of birdlife. Returning to camp after our walk, we had a spectacular sighting of a leopard high in a tree. She was so close that we could even see two puncture wounds in her shoulder; wounds that could well have been fatal if they had been a few inches to the right. Eventually the leopard, bored by our presence, stretched, yawned and climbed down from the tree ­before sauntering off. Continuing towards camp, we found a male lion lying calmly and conspicuously by the side of the road. After allowing us a lengthy and leisurely look, he simply got up, moved off into the shade and disappeared as he lay down again in the long grass.

Waking from an afternoon nap, I watched from our tent as an elephant pushed his forehead against the trunk of a winter thorn tree, persistently shaking the tree to dislodge its seedpods. Once no more seedpods fell, he delicately collected this bounty, one pod at a time, with the tip of his trunk and, transferring them to his mouth, appeared mesmerised as he munched. Watching him eat reminded me that it was time for yet another of the camp’s delicious meals… this time afternoon tea.

Keen for some peace and quiet, I dispatched my husband on a fishing expedition after breakfast, and returned to our luxurious tent to relax. Below our verandah there was a 50-metre-wide channel of water between us and a wooded island. Every day we had watched elephants traverse the island, foraging for food; this time however I focused on the channel itself. For over an hour, a male goliath heron stood knee deep in the water, infinitely patient and still, stalking his prey.

Nothing seemed to distract him; neither the coucals squabbling on the bank, nor the jacanas dancing on rafts of water hyacinth; and not the kingfisher hovering overhead, or the terrapin inching its way up the bank. Even the cries of the hadedas and Egyptian geese didn’t deter him; and the bellows of the hippos on the other side of the island didn’t break his concentration. I couldn’t stand the ‘suspense’ any longer and went off to find a cup of tea. The heron meanwhile, clearly deciding his patience was not going to be rewarded, strode purposefully to another hunting ground a few metres away, and settled down to start all over again.

Anabezi is a truly special place, and we felt privileged to have had the opportunity to visit this wonderful part of Zambia. The end of our stay came way too soon, long before we were ready to leave. Our only consolation on departing was that our drive back across the park was a lot less daunting now that we actually knew where we were going!

ANABEZI LUXURY TENTED CAMP www.anabezi.com

Lower Zambezi

NATURE’S WILD ABODE ~ The Lower Zambezi Valley ~

Photo credit: Mukambi Safaris Roan antelope in Kafue National Park

Mukambi Safaris offers three magnificent prize-winning camps in Kafue National Park, one of the largest areas of unspoiled wilderness.

Each camp has its own character and style in different areas of the national park, making them completely....unique by nature.

We offer attractive packages where you can visit all of our three camps.

Unique by Nature +260 (0)974 424013 | info@mukambi.com | mukambi.com

Mukambi Safari Lodge Mukambi Safari Lodge overlooks the Kafue River and is the gateway to Kafue National Park

Fig Tree Bush Camp This camp lies in an undiscovered part of the park on a Shishamba River lagoon.

The only camp in a range of 30 km - it offers a unique out-of-Africa atmosphere.

Busanga Plains Camp Busanga Plains Camp has eight beds available in a classic bush camp on the famous Busanga Plains.

Interview

Five minutes with...

MULENGA CHAFILWA

Chairperson of the Zambia National Visual Arts Council

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Had you always been interested in art?

Yes, of course. When I was seven years old that’s when I got my first set of paints. My parents had realised that I was inclined towards drawing and painting.

How did you become a visual artist?

For me I would say it was something that I was born with, because at my tender age my parents had noticed that there was something about me that was more to do with expressing myself in a visual sense.

Did you have any idea how you would earn a living?

To me it’s something that came naturally without realising that one day this is what I would just focus on.

Are artists appreciated in Zambia?

They are not appreciated as much as people appreciate their products. Most of the locals don’t seem to appreciate what visual art is all about and the value that art has…just what the artists bring to society. Go into any school today and ask pupils which visual artist they know—none.

What challenges do you encounter?

Two of Mulenga Chafilwa's impressive works

Mulenga Chafilwa (right), with one of his students

The availability of the right type of materials. Art materials are quite expensive so mostly you would only find the student type of materials.

Two of Mulenga Chafilwa's impressive works

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Livingstone

Ladies of

Writer: Sarah Kingdom

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ivingstone is definitely one of the ‘jewels in the crown’ of Zambian tourism, and it must be said that a number of women working in the industry there are certainly the ‘power behind the throne’. On recent visits to Livingstone I was impressed with the professionalism, innovation, charisma and motivation of so many of the women working there. I chatted with a few of them…

Aggie Maseko Banda

Lodge Manager, Royal Chundu

Aggie is proof that hard work and a bubbly personality are a winning combination. Initially training as a personal assistant and working with the Zambian Government, Aggie has earned her position in the hospitality industry through hard work and ‘on-the-job’ experience. After marrying and following her husband to South Africa where he was working as a chef, a job opportunity as a receptionist at her husband’s workplace started her on the hospitality ladder. Climbing the ladder rapidly she found herself assistant lodge manager after just two years.

A fortuitous meeting with the owner/director of Royal Chundu resulted in a job offer back home in Zambia. Before accepting the job, Aggie and her husband flew up to see Royal Chundu. ‘It was love at first sight; I told myself that there was no way I could not work at this beautiful place,’ she tells me.

Initially starting as Island Lodge Supervisor, Aggie is now Lodge Manager at Royal Chundu. ‘This is my passion,’ she says. ‘I wake up every morning to do what I love. To say I love my job is an understatement. I am living my dream, doing what makes me happy.’

Joyce Sikabubba

Public Relations Manager, Royal Livingstone Hotel By Anantara And Avani Victoria Falls Resort Born, raised and educated in Zambia, Joyce is a force to be reckoned with in her chosen career. ‘From a very young age, I have been passionate about my dream career: hospitality,’ she states.

Graduating from Evelyn Home College, Joyce started her hospitality career with Mosi-oa-Tunya Intercontinental Hotels in Livingstone. After the privatisation of the Intercontinental, she joined Sun International, working in both the Zambezi Sun and Royal Livingstone. ‘It was such an exciting journey to be part of the opening team for Sun International Zambia,’ she enthuses.

When Minor Hotel Group acquired ownership of the two Sun International properties, Joyce continued working as public relations manager for both hotels. Joyce, one of the hotel’s longest serving employees, has worked in senior management positions in Front Office, Rooms, Sales and Marketing and Public Relations. ‘My passion for hospitality drives my success. I love my job, am passionate about service excellence and perfecting the art of hospitality throughout my career journey,’ she says.

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Joyce is a strong believer in maintaining strong, long-term relationships with both clients and colleagues; after sharing high tea with her at the Royal Livingstone, I certainly came away feeling I had made a friend.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Currently pursuing her studies in tourism and hospitality through the London School of Planning and Management, Joyce is clearly as passionate about her chosen profession as ever.

Livingstone

Livingstone _____

_____________ Faith Yamba

Marketing Consultant, Livingstone's Adventure Faith is a confident and dynamic young woman. She undertook her formal qualifications at Mulungushi University and obtained a Bachelor of Commerce degree, majoring in marketing. Initially, bowing to her parent’s wishes, Faith studied economics, but by her second year of university, when time came to select her major, she says, ‘I had to be brave and tell my parents that my destiny was in marketing.’

Faith moved to Livingstone after being offered a position as marketing consultant at Livingstone’s Adventure. ‘This new opportunity was perfect in the sense that I could practise marketing as a whole, giving me the ability to be innovative and creative,’ she explains.

Responsible for marketing the company’s activities both locally and regionally, Faith thinks that in this role, being innovative is essential. ‘As the marketing consultant at Livingstone’s Adventure, my job is to make sure that I create a strong lasting relationship with our agents.’

On her choice of career Faith has this to say: ‘Growing up I had the opportunity to travel and live in different countries and because of that diversity, it helped mould me into the person I am today. My love for travel and meeting new people has definitely had a big impact on my marketing career.’

Catherine Mukubwa Shamasamu

Operations And Ground Handling Manager, Bushtracks Africa Catherine has a degree in Public Administration and Development studies from the University of Zambia, and qualifications in Front Office Operations from the Hotel Travel and Training Institute.

After completing her professional training, and time spent running the Copperbelt University Guest Lodge, she relocated to Livingstone, finding herself at Sun International and involved in the opening of their two hotels, Royal Livingstone and Zambezi Sun. At Sun International, Catherine was in charge of high profile clients and site inspections, and undertook several in-house training courses, working her way up through the ranks in Front Office, Guest Relations and as Events/Incentives Co-ordinator.

Deciding to diversify, Catherine moved to Bushtracks Africa as assistant groups and incentives manager, eventually taking over running the Ground Handling Department, a position she still holds and runs with enviable precision and professionalism.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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Livingstone

Anna Mutale

Reception, Consultant, Ground Handling, Train Hostess And Personal Assistant To The Managing Director, Bushtracks Africa Anna juggles her varied job with a perpetually smiling face and great enthusiasm. Having grown up believing that anything in life is possible, Anna decided on a career in tourism. ‘From a young age I have been very determined and self-motivated, having a real passion for the hospitality industry,’ she says.

She graduated with an Advanced Diploma in Leisure and Tourism Management from the Livingstone Institute of Business and Engineering Studies. She initially ran her own small business and then came a period working as manager of a boarding house, before she decided to relocate from Lusaka and take up a position with Bushtracks.

Anna’s job is varied and busy, yet she keeps a cool head, remaining calm, friendly and professional at all times. I first met her manning the reception desk in the morning, and again at the end of a long day, when she welcomed us aboard the Royal Livingstone Express for dinner—she was still smiling and gracious.

Eunice Lubinda

Islands Of Siankaba Management Team, Lodge Manager & Reservations Eunice seems to be everywhere you look at Islands of Siankaba! She’s hands on in all areas of the lodge, not to mention really great company chatting by the fire before dinner!

Eunice studied Travel and Tourism Management at The Hotel, Travel and Tourism Training Institute.

‘To be honest I had always wanted to study medicine; I was fascinated by the human body when I was a little girl. However, with my bubbly personality and my love for nature, travel, leisure, events and mostly food, I found myself more inclined to the service industry and my passion for hospitality grew,’ she explains.

Immediately after graduating, she worked as guest relations assistant at Museums Board of Livingstone. After a brief period in Lusaka, she joined Islands of Siankaba, as guest relations and duty manager before progressing to her current role as lodge manager.

Not one to rest on her laurels, she is currently pursuing her studies with The Zambia Institute of Tourism and Hospitality. ‘I have believed there is so much more that I can contribute to the industry; my career is new but I have a burning passion and love what I do.’

Numba Fwanyanga

Islands Of Siankaba Management Team, Qualified Masseuse & Runs The Lodge Spa Numba has been at Islands of Siankaba for three years. Prior to that, she was based at the Royal Livingstone hotel spa. On-the-job training at Royal Livingstone, followed by five years working in their spa, cemented her decision to work on the beauty side of tourism. Moving from Royal Livingstone to Islands of Siankaba, she not only runs the Siankaba spa, but has branched out into other areas of the hospitality business. Her role at Islands expanded to include guest relations, staff management, and administration. Not only has Numba diversified, but she strives to learn more and to advance further in her chosen industry. In her words she is ‘determined to become a key player.’ An open, friendly and professional person, it is not hard to see that this is a young lady who’s going places.

Doubtless there are many more women, who are just as capable, working in the Zambian tourism industry, but I was delighted and privileged to meet and chat with these truly inspiring, Livingstone-based ladies.

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Biography

BARRY

SHENTON

Writers: Rolf and Ali Shenton Photography: Shenton Family

the Parks Board and the family moved to Hluhluwe Game Reserve where Shen headed the Tsetse Control Department for Mukuzi, Umfolozi and Hluhluwe. The conflict between game and livestock escalated because of nagana and at one time arry Shenton was born on 30th the Parks Board was given orders to shoot April 1929 in Eshowe, Zululand. His father, all game to prevent further spread. Barry John Lindsay Shenton (‘Shen’), had moved and his younger brother Bob both joined to South Africa from Leicester in the UK as a the Tsetse Control Unit and became good baby with Barry’s grandparents in search of hunters until Shen organised six Martins a new life in the gold reefs of Johannesburg bombers to spray DDT up to the boundaries in 1894. Shen worked as a mining engineer of the reserves and this ended the tsetse up to the Great War. He rose to the rank of conflict. captain and came back from service in Europe (one of three surviving officers of In 1948 the family moved north to Northern 150 in Delville Wood) to a cattle/cotton Rhodesia where they started farming eggs, farm. Barry’s mother Pat was a strongcitrus and maize on a piece of virgin land willed Scot and third generation South in Mazabuka. Times were tough, so Barry African. joined the Northern Rhodesian Game

B

By 1936 the cotton had done well, but the cattle had been decimated by nagana, the often fatal tsetse disease, so Shen joined

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Department on 19th June 1950. His first posting was to Lundazi where he joined Bert Schultz as one of the first two professional hunters in the newly formed Gov-

ernment Conducted Hunting Scheme in the Luangwa Valley. He was based at the ‘Castle’ which was built and run by the District Commissioner, Errol Button, and was responsible for elephant control on crop raiders in Eastern Province in the rainy season. Fluent in Zulu, he now learnt Chinyanja and over the next five years was a full-time ranger opening up the west bank of the Luangwa Game Reserve to tourism.

In 1952 Barry blazed the boundaries of the area to which game reserve regulations would be applied in Chief Nsefu’s area, and he established a Game Guards Training Camp at Milyoti. Profits from commercial hunting in Chief Nsefu’s territory were given to the chief to develop his area—this is the earliest form of a community-based project of its kind, a system not unlike today’s Community Resource Boards. He built the first permanent camp in South Luangwa, Nsefu, and today the camp remains almost unchanged under the management of Robin

Pope Safaris. Nsefu survived the floods of 2007—for the 57th time—while many other newer structures have been washed away over the years, a testimony to the quality of service offered by those early government workers. The Nsefu Game Reserve was declared on 5th May 1966 which is of enormous historical significance, being the first area where wildlife viewing was established on the initiative of a local chief as a source of revenue. Over the next few years, Barry was posted to Kabompo and Kasempa, building the Nyika Rest Camp on the 8,000-foot Nyika plateau.

Biography time Norman Carr had two lion cubs to care for, and once they were weaned from bottle milk they were moved to Ngoma where Barry and Johnny Uys took care of them as they learnt to hunt and fend for themselves.

The story of these two lions, Big Boy and Little Boy, is written in Norman Carr’s book, Return to the Wild.

In early 1961 Barry, Howard Alker, Johnny Uys and Bill Bainbridge transported and relocated the first six rhino from Natal to Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. The rhino thrived until the last was poached in the mid-1980s.

Lochinvar and Blue Lagoon until 1968.

Marianne worked as a nurse at the ‘non-feepaying’ section of Batoka Hospital. In 1969 Barry was transferred to headquarters in Chilanga where his daughter Allison was born. And in 1970 his last posting in the Game Department was at Kasama, as warden of Northern Province.

By 1970, Zambians were ready to take over the Game Department and Barry retired to manage his brother Bob’s farm in Mazabuka where he farmed potatoes, tomatoes, maize and cattle. In 1975 his youngest son, Clive, was born. In 1982, Barry finally managed to In late 1958, the council gave the Game buy his own farm in Mkushi and again Department just 11 months to open adjusted quickly to the new up Kafue National Park (KNP) to environment. He proved, at 53, that tourism, failing which the area would one is never too old to start a new lose its status and be resettled. life and became one of Zambia’s most Norman Carr selected Barry and significant seed growers, growing Johnny Uys to help him, and between both soya and maize. Barry diversified April and September 1958 Barry had whenever opportunities arose, and built 900 kilometres of roads from ran a borehole drilling rig, contracted Dundumwedzi in the south to the harvested maize, and built Kaingo Busanga Plains in the north, and the two men had built six camps—Moshi, One of the visitors in the dry season of 1961 under Shenton Safaris in South Luangwa Ntemwa, Nanzhila, Chunga, Lufupa and was a pretty Swedish nurse who had settled National Park in 1992 with his son, Derek.

In 1994, when the Great North Road was Kafwala. Roads were surveyed on foot and at a mission hospital in eastern Rhodesia almost impassable, he began his last major cleared behind by hand, then smoothed (Zimbabwe) and escorted her visiting with a railway line triangle pulled behind parents to KNP in an old Morris Minor they project: the Forest Inn. The well-appointed, peaceful Forest Inn has become the place to a Land Rover. Bridges were built with rock had bought for the journey. The car develstay for nearly all visitors to Mkushi. and concrete around 44-gallon drum forms, oped a problem, and Barry took four days all carted by an old three-ton Morris truck to fix it, by which time he had proposed Barry slipped quietly away in 2007 on 21st via Namwala. The Morris chassis eventually marriage to her and Marianne, who loved March in his bed and surrounded by his broke, and it was repaired with a mopane the bush, moved to Kafue to join him and wife and children, surely a satisfied man, pole wrapped with wet buffalo hide – good became his lifelong partner. Their first son having overcome all his life’s challenges, enough to finish the job. By the end of 1959, Rolf was born in 1963, followed by Derek. the Game Department had won its chalBarry was dedicated to duty, efficiency and including his first cancer 15 years ago. His youngest son, Clive, will continue managing lenge, and Africa’s most prominent nationdiscipline and was promoted to warden of the farm and the Forest Inn. Barry’s children al park at the time was open to visitors.

KNP from 1964 to 1966. In 1967-1968 he and grandchildren have kept his sense of Barry’s parents Pat and Shen ran Ngoma was transferred to Livingstone to become nation-building, social conscience and Lodge, the original hotel in the area built by warden of Southern Province, responsible sustainable resource management. the first warden, Len Vaughan. During this for Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park,

'His children and grandchildren have kept his sense of nation-building, social conscience and sustainable resource management'

PHOTO CAPTIONS Barry Shenton Barry Shenton with Bert Schultz Game guard training, Camp Kalichelo. Tsetse officer James Muir, JBS ranger, Roelf Attwell biologist, Bert Shultz ranger TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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South Luangwa

SOUTH LUANGWA’S AMAZING NEW

Writer: Ian Salisbury Photography: Ian Salisbury

G

uests at South Luangwa’s Mfuwe Lodge invariably share their days with a variety of wild and wonderful animals—though one particular creature literally looms large wherever you look. The aptly named ‘hippo pool’, which lies alongside the lodge, provides constant entertainment, as dozens of these huge, comical creatures go about their daily business. For a grandstand view of proceedings there is no better place than the Bush Spa, where hippo antics often add a touch of comedy to the pampering experience.

Relaxing after their recent invigorating massage, two eagle-eyed guests witnessed an occurrence hardly ever observed in the wild.

Just a few metres below them, half-hidden by dense foliage, one somewhat rounder than normal female hippo started giving birth.

The rarity value of this astonishing sighting reached new heights a few hours later when it became apparent that ‘mum’ had success-

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Double Act

fully delivered not one, but two new bundles of hippo joy—twins!

submerged. Suckling like this can continue for most of the first year of life.

In the wild, young animals often struggle to make their way in the world. The African bush can be a dangerous place for infants, and growing up is fraught with a variety of daily perils. The initial challenge, of course, is getting enough nourishment and, like all other mammals, milk comes first. Hippos spend a good part of their day in the water, so youngsters quickly have to learn how to dive and suckle underwater. They instinctively close their nostrils and ears when beneath the surface, and even have membranes that cover and protect their eyes whilst

Fortunately, after surviving week one, both tiny tots were still active and happily receiving equal shares of motherly love and attention.

While such unusual double births have been recorded before, mainly in zoos, the occurrence of twins is considered to be extremely rare. After a gestation period of around 100 days, hippos usually give birth to a single calf, weighing in at anything up to 50 kilogrammes. When twins are born, both will not normally survive, with the mother concentrating her maternal attentions on one baby, and sadly abandoning the other— ‘Survival of the fattest’, perhaps?

Having overcome that challenge they must also face the threat posed by the area’s many predators: lions, hyenas, and mainly their closest neighbour—the Nile crocodile. The oxbow lagoon that serves as their nursery is shared by many of these large, hungry reptiles. Fortunately, hippo mothers are ever alert to the possibility of their offspring becoming delicious snacks, and are more than capable of inflicting serious bites of their own to any over-ambitious carnivore. Their protective duty also extends to fending off male hippos that have been known to attack and kill babies underwater; an angry, defensive mother is a mean adversary! From spending much of their first few days sleeping on land, or in the shallows, youngsters soon become much more aquatic, though more difficult to spot as they bob up for air, well hidden amongst the floating Nile cabbage.

ct

Writer: Mahina Perrot Photography: The Bushcamp Company

South Luangwa

N

othing could have prepared me for the sense of awe, wonder and amazement as I watched, for the first time, two big bull elephants walk through the reception at Mfuwe Lodge, situated in the gorgeous South Luangwa National Park, in late October 2016.

Elephants had been around the lodge’s grounds for the last few days, and that particular morning two males had decided to snoop around the tall, thick, famous wild mango tree located right by the main area. While I had heard amazing stories of these beautiful pachyderms walking inside the lobby from members of staff and repeat guests, I had never actually seen this yet.

We told those of our guests who hadn’t gone out on a game drive about the elephants on the lawn, and they hurried to the library deck to get a closer look. I, on the other hand, had decided to stay near the reception. It was so quiet and I was alone, so I took the opportunity to call my mother via Skype to share with her some more of the incredible things I had seen so far since I had started working for the Bushcamp Company, just a few months earlier. Suddenly, one of the male elephants turned round the tree and came to stand right at the entrance to the lobby. I thought, ‘This is it!’. He and I locked eyes. I slowly turned the computer so my mother could also see him but at that moment the second male joined in and pushed the other in the back.

Slowly, they both came inside the lobby and steadily made their way towards me. I stood up shakily and walked slowly behind the counter, still holding the laptop in front of me.

‘Stop moving! It’s all blurry, I can’t see them!’ my mother whispered excitedly. Tears of joy welled in my eyes, and my heart caught in my throat as I watched in awe as the two elephants walked peacefully right in front of me. They strode past and one of them gently lifted its trunk, sniffed the air around me and again looked me in the eye, before heading to the carpark. A deep sense of humility, unconditional love and respect for these stunning creatures filled me in that instant.

Since then I have seen them walk through many times.

But the excitement and feeling of anticipation when you know they are going to walk through remains the same.

Each time is unique, and often funny.

One day, during afternoon tea, a huge matriarch stepped right inside the lounge where we had carrot cake on the table. Another time, two males urinated in the lobby while frantically greeting each other! Yet another time, a female grabbed a check-in card, pushed the tip box around and stuck her trunk out at the jug of juice which I was clutching against my chest! But my favourite moment is most certainly when guests see them for the very first time, as I know exactly how they feel.

To watch such beautiful, wild animals so comfortable and safe around the lodge truly is a privilege and I am grateful every day for the opportunity to live amongst them. While they are even now around the lodge, already I can’t wait for the next elephant check-in, in October to November!

ELEPHANT CHECK-IN TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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South Luangwa

Zacks Tumbwe Senior Chef at Mwamba Bush Camp

Tell us a bit about your background I was born on 4th March, 1978. I did my primary education at Kawawaza Primary School which is now called Nsefu Secondary School from 1991 to 1997. I then went to Mfuwe Day Secondary for my grades eight and nine, then I did part of my senior secondary at Katete Secondary School from grade 10 to 11.

Due to financial challenges I had to drop out of school in grade 11.

Can you tell me how it all began?

After dropping out of school, I went to Norman Carr Safaris to ask for financial assistance to complete my education. However, due to a high number of people who were requesting financial assistance, they offered me a part- time job to help me raise money for school fees.

So, I started as a general worker under Norman Carr Safaris, mainly involved with camp building. Then, after working for a few months, I was taken into the kitchen as a kitchen assistant for two safari seasons. I was then appointed as a senior chef at Luwi Bush Camp which is under Norman Carr Safaris, though they used to move me to different bush camps under their operation.

How did you end up at Shenton Safaris as a chef?

After leaving Norman Carr Safaris in 2008, I stayed for three years without working. It was during this period that one of the managers

from Shenton Safaris used to visit his friend at a certain house in Mfuwe town. I also used to be found at the same house helping with cooking; he was impressed with my cooking then he told me that at Shenton Safaris there was a vacancy for a chef.

So, I’ve now been a chef here at Shenton Safaris for seven years and this year is my eighth year.

What is your favourite dish?

Dessert, any type of dessert. I just love preparing it because it gives me a lot of thinking.

Most memorable moment in the bush?

Here at Mwamba Bush Camp about three to four years ago we used to have a very old male lion which was named Lingo. You would find that every day in the evening he would come into camp, either in the dining area, at the staff compound and at times you would find him in the morning around the hide, feeding on puku or bushbuck. Conservation South Luangwa then came and darted him, then took him to another place away from the bush camp. This is one of the great experiences I will never forget.

What do you love most about Mwamba Bush Camp?

The place is quiet with a lot of wildlife, especially the cats and a lot of bird sounds.

When did you join Shenton Safaris?

I joined Shenton Safaris in June, 1992, as a builder, just when they started building the camp.

How did your safari guide journey start?

When the camp was opened in August, 1993, my boss Derek Shenton was the only guide and by then I had moved from being a builder to a waiter and a spotter. I developed an interest in guiding when I was a spotter. I then started studying guiding in 1993 and in 1995 I sat for my first exam to become a grade two safari guide.

I then started guiding in 1996, and in 1999 I sat for the grade one safari guide exams. So I’ve now been guiding for 22 years.

Best animal experience?

I have had a lot of animal experiences: great lion and leopard sightings, over seven sightings of aardvark which is very rare—and all this happened on different occasions.

Your favourite safari… walk or drive?

I love both…walking because I love to be at the same level with animals, being close without the sound of the engine. Driving… I love it because I get very close to the animals which is just a different experience. So, in general I just love both.

Most fascinating animal?

The male eland, because of its size. It’s an

antelope, and the largest of all the antelopes. It’s got a beautiful dewlap… and the sound it makes when it’s walking.

Inside View: Shenton Safaris

Patrick Njobvu Senior Guide, Shenton Safaris

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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Favourite sound in the bush?

The call of the hyena. It gives me a picture that I am really in the bush.

How do you deal with guests who are on safari for the first time?

Firstly, I must find out what their interests are because we get guests with different interests.

Once I know their interests then I start from there.

Have you had any scary encounter on safari?

Quite a few, but the scariest encounter was in 2009 when on a walking safari we got charged by a buffalo.

You have worked for Shenton Safaris for 26 years now. What’s the secret?

I think I am just at the right place—moving around means you have not found the right place and once you find the right place there is no reason to move around. I find this company very organised and my boss is very good, so I find no reason to move around.

South Luangwa from a family of eight—four boys and four girls— and I am the first born. I started my primary education at Ncheka Basic School and went as far as grade nine; I did not continue with school due to financial challenges at home.

There was drought at this time due to poor rainfall and my parents relied on cotton farming for income. I then started a bit of farming and I was growing cotton, groundnuts and maize. A few years later I joined National Airports Corporation as a casual worker and Room Attendant, for nine years.

Mwamba Bush Camp worked What do you love most about Mwamba When did you join Shenton Bush Camp?

Safaris?

I love this place I joined Shenton Safaris in 2006 and because it’s very I’ve been here now for 12 years. quiet with a beautiful landscape. Sometimes Tell us about your background I can listen to different I was brought up in Mfuwe. I come types of bird calls.

Henry Mchenga

James Zulu Transfer Guide / Maintenance Where were you brought up?

I was born in Mfuwe, Abraham village, Chief Mkhanya. I did my primary education partly in Lusaka and Mfuwe and then proceeded for my secondary education at Chasa Secondary School.

What first brought you to Shenton Safaris?

In 1993, I joined Shenton Safaris as a carpenter and only worked for them for two months before I resigned. In the year 2000 I rejoined the company as a plot supervisor at the plot where they grow vegetables for the camps and rear chickens for eggs for the camps. In 2003, I was transferred to Kaingo Camp as a waiter.

What is your role at Shenton Safaris?

In short, I would say I am multi-purpose. I do carpentry, fix electrical faults; I supervise different departments and do transfers for the guests.

What motivates you?

It’s the knowledge I get every day from my job— that’s what really gives me the motivation.

What do you love most about Kaingo Camp?

I would say the director himself. He’s a man whom you can approach at any time with your concerns and he will hear you. He is always ready to teach and understands our problems.

Project Luangwa is a unique charity helping communities in South Luangwa through educational, sponsorship, craft skills and gender support programmes.

Tourism giving hope to those in need and with your support we can make a difference.

www.projectluangwa.org

Proudly supported by TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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South Luangwa

MWAMBA-KAPANDA

PRIDE

Writer: Thandiwe Mweetwa: Photography: Zambian Carnivore Programme

T

he story of the Mwamba-Kapanda Pride perfectly illustrates the fierce battles for supremacy and the tragedies that characterise inter-pride relations in wild lion populations. The pride occupies the northern boundary of the Zambian Carnivore Programme’s (ZCP) intensive study area in South Luangwa National Park (SLNP), roaming around Kapanda Lagoon and Chikaya Plain.

The Mwamba-Kapandas were initially part of a super pride made up of nearly 40 lions, which ruled the Lion Plain/Mwamba areas up to 2008. The mega pride split up into the three sub-groups dubbed the Mwamba I, Mwamba II and Mwamba III prides. The Mwamba III Pride, now popularly known as the ‘Big Pride’, moved about 30 kilometres south and settled in the main game-viewing area of SLNP. The Mwamba I and II prides stayed north and are now commonly referred to as the Mwamba-Kaingo and Mwamba-Kapanda prides respectively. The Mwamba-Kaingos occupy the prime area along the Luangwa River while the Mwamba-Kapandas are further inland north-west of Lion Plain.

The northern sister prides have had a number of encounters over the years but none more brutal than the series of territorial disputes that occurred in mid-2013.

The much smaller Mwamba-Kapanda Pride ventured south and made several buffalo kills in their sister pride’s territory. The Mwamba-Kaingos responded with swift hostility to the intrusion into their area.

Outnumbered, the Mwamba-Kapandas lost six out of seven cubs in a series of hostile encounters. Some of these fatal disputes were caught on camera by safari guides working in the area. The lone surviving cub was separated from the pride for a few days after being abandoned during a confrontation.

Since those incidents in 2013, the Mwamba-Kapandas have bounced back, numbering 18 strong in 2017 with nine adult females. The lone cub that survived is now a lioness in her prime at five years old. Safari guides operating in the area named her Chimozi, which means ‘Only Child’ in the Kunda language. In 2017, we had regular sightings of her as the pride started spending more time around Chikaya Plain. Chimozi is now a confident hunter who is brave enough to venture away from the safety of her pride.

The Mwamba-Kapanda Pride has been one of the ZCP’s study prides for nearly 10 years. As the 2018 field season commences and more parts of the park become accessible, we look forward to witnessing and documenting what the future holds for this extraordinary lioness and her pride. As one of only two study prides that occupy territories exclusively inside a protected area, data collected from following the Mwamba-Kapandas will be essential in improving our understanding of the ecological factors influencing lion population dynamics in our area.

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Personal Touch in South Luangwa Guided & Self-Drive Safaris Game Viewing Vehicle Hires

www.tptouch.com | info@tptouch.com | +260 978 459965 Photo credit: Mukambi Safaris Vervet Monkey in Kafue National Park

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

39

South Luangwa

PICTURE PERFECT Calendars Contribute to Conservation and Community

Writer: Mahina Perrot Photography: The Bushcamp Company

C

alendars are a pretty common feature of most households. To some, they are merely a quick visual check of what the date is, or perhaps a reminder of important appointments. To many people though, calendars also have a more decorative function, with colourful pictures and designs brightening up the walls of the kitchen or living room. Some calendars could possibly be described as works of art...

For the past ten years The Bushcamp Company/Mfuwe Lodge has found a way to incorporate calendars into their conservation and community projects in Zambia’s Luangwa Valley. Each year, children from local schools are invited to submit pencil drawings which illustrate their own view of life in and around the popular tourist attraction of the South Luangwa National Park.

After the judging of dozens of entries, around 20 of the most talented young artists are then invited to attend a weekend art workshop inside the national park at Mfuwe Lodge, with one of Zambia’s best known professional artists, Mulenga Chafilwa. As one of the country’s top artists, and an ex-teacher himself, Mulenga is the perfect person to inspire, advise and train the budding ‘Picassos’ in how to improve their artistic techniques and in methods of using new materials and colours to produce more striking images.

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On completion of the final masterpieces, the best 12 pictures are then selected to illustrate each month of the year in the

South Luangwa finished calendar. This is then sent to supporters in South Africa and the USA to be compiled and printed in high quality, before being returned to Zambia to be sold. The young artists are rewarded with prizes and safari trips to view the area’s prolific wildlife.

Apart from the aesthetic appeal of a beautiful finished product, the calendar aims to fulfil other important roles… the sale of the calendar raises funds which are then used to help the local schools to buy much needed educational materials.

'...help to reinforce the recognition of South Luangwa as the world’s first International Sustainable Wildlife Park'

By involving the children in the production of the calendar, it raises their awareness of the many community and conservation issues that affect their daily lives.

They are the next generation who will be responsible for ensuring that the Luangwa Valley, which is their unique home, will continue to thrive, with fields such as education, health, agriculture, employment, tourism and wildlife conservation being key areas to consider.

PHOTO COURTESY: ISAK PRETORIUS

It is hoped that, in turn, this awareness extends to the Valley’s many tourist visitors and that, in a small way, it will help to reinforce the recognition of South Luangwa as the world’s first International Sustainable Wildlife Park.

www.bushcampcompany.com

www.mfuwelodge.com

info@bushcampcompany.com TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

41

Across the border - Zimbabwe

The Victoria Falls Hotel

WHERE MODERN LUXURY AND HISTORICAL ROMANCE MERGE Writer: Sarah Kerr Photography: Sarah Kerr

V

ictoria Falls, Zimbabwe, is a unique destination, a world wonder in a country ripe with a fascinating history, incredible wildlife and some of Africa’s most hospitable people.

The town by the same name calls visitors back time after time with its heady mixture of an epic landscape, lively dining and entertainment options, abundant wildlife and an illustrious past. Victoria Falls town offers varied accommodation options for travellers of all tastes and budgets but one hotel above all others stands out in the collective imagination and the history of the town itself. Affectionately known as ‘the grand old lady of the Falls’, the Victoria Falls Hotel was the first hotel in the town of Victoria Falls and she looms large in the development of the town.

The hotel was originally built in 1904 to house workers building the iconic Victoria Falls Bridge in a bid to complete Cecil John Rhodes’s vision of a railway network that would stretch from Cape to Cairo. To this day the hotel’s logo features a lion and a sphinx, symbolising Rhodes’s dream of connecting South Africa with Egypt. The Victoria Falls Hotel played an important role in expanding early tourism to the area as it pioneered visits to the Victoria Falls by means of rickshaws, offered cruises on the

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Zambezi and was a stop on the BOAC flying boat service between Southampton and South Africa.

It is over a century since the hotel came to be and ‘she’ has presided over numerous visits from royalty, seen uncounted visitors and stood steady through two world wars, the introduction of the automobile and the birth of Zimbabwe as an independent democracy. Despite the many changes and the ebbs and flows of tourism to the region the hotel, with its classical façade, manicured gardens and quiet, calm interior has kept her grace and beauty throughout.

There are few properties like this left in the world and I was thrilled to visit ‘the grand old lady’ for a night of much-needed pampering. Despite having grown up in Victoria Falls under the watchful eye of this icon of tourism I had never had a chance to stay the night.

The establishment’s striking architecture was designed to take advantage of its unique position and, from the long stretch of the hotel’s front verandah, verdant green lawn sweeps down towards the spectacular view of the bridge spanning the Batoka Gorge and the resplendent spray rising from the mighty Falls.

It was this perfect, carefully framed view that greeted me through the open doorways as I proceeded through the main entrance and grand communal areas to the terrace. Symmetry plays a key role throughout the architecture, with sweeping staircases, colonnades and

Edwardian adornments all pleasingly mirrored. The attention to detail, high ceilings and scale take your breath away at each visit.

I was staying in the Stables Signature Wing which was completely refurbished in 2013.

Despite new additions, it perfectly matches the older parts of the hotel in style while providing greater luxury such as larger, more modern bathrooms. You would be forgiven for thinking you had stepped back in time when you first enter the tranquil corridors lined with remnants of the hotel’s fascinating past, but closer inspection reveals that the colonial era is long gone.

Today, African businessmen mingle with American tourists having high tea on the broad verandah and the amenities have been updated so that modern luxury and historical romance merge in perfect harmony.

After my private check-in, in the lounge of the Stables Wing, I was shown to my spacious and lovely room. The room overlooked the beautiful hotel grounds, and although I could not see the Falls with the screened window open, they could clearly be heard and I spent an incredibly pleasant afternoon reading while being soothed by their sound. The room offered teaand coffee- making facilities, a mini-bar, complimentary Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, satellite television and an in-room safe. The bathroom featured both a walk-in shower and a romantic ball and claw tub.

The Stables Wing guests are also offered a

complimentary afternoon tea in the private lounge of the Stables Wing. However, given the historic surrounds, my companion and I felt that we should sample the selection of gin and tonics available at Stanley’s Bar just off the hotel terrace. We were not disappointed with our decision when we saw the large selection of gin available and the inventive pairings with each signature gin and tonic.

After enjoying our drinks we made our way to the Livingstone Room restaurant. The restaurant is known as a pinnacle of fine dining in Africa and is situated in the hotel itself. The décor tastefully manages to combine elegant art deco of the 1920s with the hotel’s classic Edwardian style; and you almost feel that you are playing a glamorous actress on an Old World movie set as you cross the dance floor while a live pianist plays softly. It is refreshing to enjoy formal dining and silver service and the experience offers a real chance to dress up, although the dress code has been relaxed to ‘smart casual’.

We chose to enjoy the seven-course degustation menu with accompanying wine pairings.

The restaurant offers an impressive wine list with choices from across the globe; however, as befits the region, all the wines on the degustation are of South African origin.

The meal was a gastronomic adventure, beginning with two freshly baked pieces of artisanal seed and tomato bread accompanied by a mustard butter and an olive butter. The incredible courses included much homage to local produce such as the amuse-bouche of bream tartare, the duo of kudu carpaccio and kudu tartare garnished with a perfectly soft-boiled quail egg and the beef fillet which

Across the border - Zimbabwe was quite honestly the best beef I have tasted.

Another highlight was the richly flavoured chilled tomato consommé which deceptively appears as a clear liquor.

The Livingstone Room is renowned for impeccable service and the reputation is justly deserved, with all the staff proving to be exceptionally attentive and discreet.

The exceptional meal was a great chance to connect and laugh, and around us we could see other guests’ enjoyment; from the honeymoon couple gazing into each other’s eyes to a large table that oohed and aahed over the spectacle provided by the flames of the Livingstone Room’s famous crêpes Suzette.

Deeply content, and with my appetite more than sated, I slept fantastically in a bed dressed with down pillows and high-quality linen. I woke to a crisp winter’s morning with rays of sunlight filtering through the magnificent old trees in front of my room. I immediately felt a pang of regret that I couldn’t stay longer, but that didn’t dampen my enjoyment of a leisurely breakfast or my amazement at how refreshed I felt after my stay.

The hotel proved to be the perfect getaway for the discerning traveller looking for a weekend away or even a longer stay. The Victoria Falls Hotel offers the chance to feel as if you are transported to another world and, importantly, to relax and reconnect with loved ones away from the stresses of modern life. It is an excellent choice for travellers from surrounding Southern African countries as their proximity makes access easy.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Sarah Kerr Sarah is a qualified photographer, graphic designer, writer and media maker with over 10 years of experience. She lives in Zimbabwe and is passionate about sharing the diverse beauty and complex stories of her country of birth.

Visit sarahkerrdesign.com to see more of her work.

Info Box Flight Access: Victoria Falls Town (Zimbabwe) and Livingstone Town (Zambia) both have international airports. Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe is easily accessed from Livingstone. There are several flights a day from various destinations notably Johannesburg, Cape Town, Harare and Windhoek.

Proflight Zambia operates scheduled flights from Lusaka to Livingstone.

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wange National Park is primarily known for its impressive numbers of big game; and the numbers have steadily grown over the years owing much to conservation efforts from Zimbabwe Parks (ZPWMA) along with ecotourism companies like Wilderness Safaris.

In the south-eastern corner of the park, in the Linkwasha private concession, is where you will find Davison’s Camp.

Writer: Nirvani Pillay Photography: Wilderness Safaris

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With only nine tents this camp is so cosy and intimate—just what a traveller wants when on a safari in this game-rich park. The main area is designed to entertain, with its impressive panoramic views of the plains and a waterhole where herds of elephant and other plains game wander over to quench their thirst.

Boma dinners under a blanket of stars

One of the many highlights of Davison’s is the dining experience that ranges from traditional boma dinners to bush brunches and picnics. At the boma dinner, clear night skies and the quiet bush sounds remind you that you are present in one of Southern Africa’s jewels, Hwange National Park. You are effortlessly mesmerised by the a capella (unaccompanied by instruments) soulful voices and charismatic cultural dancing of the camp staff, your hypnotic trance only just waning when you hear a soft crackle from the fire and sip from the glorious glass of red wine in your hand. In the middle of your bush feast your host tells you to listen quietly to the distant roar of a male lion. Chatter and dinner resumes...game meats, stews, sadza (traditional maize accompaniment to a main meal), and vegetables.

One-pan breakfast in the bush

Ngamo Plains are famous for the abundance of wildlife to be found here. A walking activity provides an exceptional contrast to a regular game drive as you explore on foot, with your professional guide leading the walk. Inevitably this stroll through the park ends with a delicious picnic under a camelthorn tree.

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Group Food Experience Manager, Linda Van Rensburg says, ‘We know

that our guests are constantly looking for more personable, flexible, true and authentic experiences. One of our key focus areas is to create experiences that are not only unique and authentic but that are hands-on and which subconsciously bridge the gap between us and the environment. For example, you’ll be out on a game drive having an amazing time, and then return to camp for a full continental breakfast, at a buffet groaning with a variety of food—or you can experience something unique—what we call a “one-pan breakfast”. This is a pan filled with bacon, eggs and sausages cooked over a fire by your guide out in the middle of nowhere. This not only keeps the hunger at bay but transforms your experience to one that takes in your surroundings, placing you firmly on the soil of Africa.’

Across the border - Zimbabwe

Part of experiencing Africa in all its wildlife-filled glory is learning how Wilderness conserves it. Sustainable ecotourism is the language that Wilderness speaks. It supplies infrastructure for no less than 14 boreholes in Hwange National Park, ensuring that there is a constant supply of water to sustain the number of mammals to which the park is home. By supplying the precious liquid, a range of species is able to live here—and guests are able to enjoy this diversity, fuelled by a delectable menu. Van Ransburg adds, ‘The primary reason all our guests travel is to see our incredible wildlife and the wilderness areas; what we offer as well is a food experience that has a focus around maximising opportunity in the bush and celebrating the local cultures. We plan our menus according to seasonality of ingredients, using local produce as much as possible.’

In fact, guests of Wilderness Safaris are able to visit one of the local villages surrounding the park and interact with the community, visiting the school and seeing its excellent nutrition programme for the children. Staff members passionately share their love for Zimbabwe and really live up to their reputation of excelling in hospitality.

Whether sitting around that campfire, sipping Fair Trade coffee in the early morning, or enjoying a range of mouth-watering flavours at any of the many meals throughout the day, the experience at Davison’s covers all the senses.

For more information visit www.wilderness-safaris.com

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Across the border - Zimbabwe Writer: Sarah Kingdom Photography: African Bush Camps

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Eagle’s Rest in Siavonga was the perfect laid-back start to our Kariba visit. On the shores of Lake Kariba, we watched as the sun went down and the first stars of the evening appeared in the sky. Gazing across the lake we could see the distant hills of Zimbabwe, our destination for the following day.

aking at sunrise, to the sound of waves lapping on the beach just outside your room, is not a sound you expect to hear in landlocked Zambia. I had to stop and think Construction of the Kariba Dam, built to supply hydroelectricity to Northern Rhodefor a minute before I remembered where I sia, now Zambia, and Southern Rhodesia, was… now Zimbabwe, began in 1955 and Lake Kariba, the world’s largest man-made concluded in 1959, with an extra section (Kariba North Power cavern) being completlake, is located on the border between ed in 1977. 86 men lost their lives during Zambia and Zimbabwe. The lake’s source, the Zambezi River, is the fourth largest river the construction of this still impressive dam wall which forms the no man’s land between in Africa. With a length of over 220 Zambia and Zimbabwe. kilometres, a width of 40 kilometres in places and with a surface area of over 5,500 square kilometres, looking out over Kariba you could be excused for thinking you are gazing out to sea.

Having not been to Zimbabwe for many years, we were not sure what to expect at the border crossing the following morning.

With a flight booked out of Kariba Airport We had arrived in Siavonga, on the Zambian on the other side of the lake at 9.30 am, we side of Kariba, after an easy, scenic two-hour were worried about long queues and didn’t want to be late. Setting our alarm for 6.00 drive from Lusaka. We caught tantalising am, we leapt out of bed, hastily packed and glimpses of the water as we drove through jumped into the taxi we had organised the the undulating hills towards the lake; it almost seemed as if we were arriving at one previous night to take us to the Zambian of those beautiful Italian lakes. Indeed, from border post. Clearly we needn’t have our verandah at sundown, with gin and tonic worried about delays at immigration. The in hand and the dramatic deep-blue waters friendly woman in charge looked positively surprised to find anyone at her counter so of the lake stretching out in front of us, early in the morning, and with passports flanked by mountains, we could have been stamped we were on our way and into a looking out over Lake Como…though the waiting Zimbabwean taxi within seconds.

‘Beware of Crocodiles’ sign on the beach After a relatively quick drive over the dam reminded us we were definitely still in wall we arrived at the Zimbabwean border Africa.

breathtaking

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post. The treatment here was almost as quick as on the Zambian side; the only delays were one immigration official’s struggle to attach the sticky visa in my passport without crinkling it up, and his sidekick’s apparent ‘difficulty’ in locating change. Change miraculously found and visa neatly attached, we were ejected out of the door into Zimbabwe and continued on our way.

On our drive to the airport we were surprised to see numerous rather large baboons wandering down the streets, and zebras standing by the roadside watching a group of commuters waiting patiently for a bus. Neither the wildlife nor the humans seemed remotely interested in one another.

The airport was almost deserted, with us the only two passengers waiting for a flight.

A cleaning lady desultorily pushed a damp mop around the floor and four or five workers casually chatted, reading the paper and sharing the early lunch the security guard’s smartly dressed young son had just proudly delivered to his dad.

A tiny Cessna 206 took us up the lake to Bumi Hills Safari Lodge. Our 20-minute flight didn’t seem long enough to take in the vast expanse of silvery, shimmering water below. As we came in to land the pilot performed a flyby of the airstrip, and we had a fabulous view of the elephants, waterbuck, impala and zebra that lined the runway like a welcoming party, completely unperturbed by our presence. Having ascertained the coast was clear we landed on our second pass, and immediately upon alighting from the ‘plane we were whisked off to luxury and paradise. On our way to the lodge we spotted countless clown-like red-billed hornbills and a brown snakeeagle in a tree, swallowing a snake like a circus conjurer— an auspicious start, for we would see a vast array of birdlife during our stay.

Reaching the lodge, perched up on the hills overlooking Lake Kariba, we came

through the doors and out into the main entertaining area of the lodge, finding ourselves standing in front of a magnificent infinity pool that seemed to merge with the tablecloth of blue lake water stretching out below. Later, from our room, we had the same awe-inspiring view and from the comfortable chairs on our verandah we could see an endless parade of elephants ambling along the lakeshore below us.

In scenes reminiscent of bath time with my own children when they were much younger, I watched elephants and their babies playing, dare I say ‘frolicking’, in the water, sometimes completely submerging under water for so long that I had to check through the binoculars that all was ok! We

could have watched for hours, but rumbling tummies took us off to the dining room, where lunch was spent at eye level with soaring vultures, various other raptors and the ever-present call of fish eagles serenading one another.

A game drive was a perfect activity for later that afternoon. It was remarkable how ‘tame’ the wildlife seemed; the impala in particular allowed us to pass by closely without even stirring a muscle. Birdlife was abundant, but the real highlight of the afternoon was without doubt being mockcharged by a one-month-old baby elephant!

We had quietly parked beside a herd of elephants; the youngster was clearly

Across the border - Zimbabwe Info Box Sarah was graciously hosted at Bumi Hills by African Bush Camps at BUMI HILLS SAFARI LODGE www.africanbushcamps.com/ camps-safaris/zimbabwe/ bumi-hills/ and on the Zambian side, in Siavonga, Sarah stayed at EAGLE’S REST RESORT www.eaglesrestresort.com

Sub-Editor’s Note It is interesting to note, for those who may not know about it, that from 1958 to 1964, as a result of the construction of the Kariba Dam when the rising waters of Lake Kariba threatened the neighbouring wildlife, a massive wildlife rescue undertaking known as Operation Noah was launched. This was responsible for rescuing over 6,000 creatures from perishing as the water level continued to rise. The project was led by Rupert Fothergill, head ranger, and included John Condy, head vet.

Animals, including elephant, rhino, antelope, lion, leopard and warthog, plus birds and even snakes were successfully rescued and safely relocated to the mainland.

In the late Seventies, during the Rhodesian War, Bumi Hills—known to many as just Bumi and under the then management team of Jeff Stuchbury and his wife Veronica—continued to host guests. Jeff Stutchbury was an enthusiastic ornithologist, conducting early morning bird-watching walks, and the hospitality at Bumi Hills, even in those difficult times, was wonderful.

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intrigued by us thinking perhaps that we would make ideal playmates. With his tiny ears flapping he ‘charged’ towards us at speed, before suddenly changing his mind, skidding to a halt in a cloud of dust and rapidly backtracking, finally ducking sideways to safety between his mother’s legs.

Both cute and comical, it had us in stitches.

One of my most enduring memories of Bumi Hills was our first sunset. Our game drive concluded at the edge of the lake, and we got out of the vehicle and sat among herds of impala and zebra, with maybe 40 or so elephants close by. Positioned with my camera, so near to these giant leviathans while trying to capture the sunset, was an awesome experience. As I knelt on the ground, a little way from the vehicle, one elephant silently approached closer and closer. I looked around nervously, plotting my best path of retreat back to safety. But I needn’t have bothered. Totally unconcerned, the elephant raised its trunk, sniffed the air and then stood calmly watching us as the sky turned from orange to red and finally purple. The peace and tranquillity of that moment is not something I will forget in a hurry.

In 1967, a huge shoal of kapenta (small sardine-like fish) was airlifted to Kariba from Lake Tanganyika and today they form the basis of a huge fishing industry, on both a traditional and commercial level. At night, from our position high above the lake, we could see the twinkling lights of the kapenta fishing rigs, in their hundreds,

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stretching out across the water, mirroring the twinkling of the stars above. The fisherman are out all night and from my bed, every time I awoke, I could see the lights of the boats, only finally extinguished just as we were woken up with our morning cups of coffee.

Kariba is one of Africa’s loveliest lakes in which to fish. Over 40 different fish species call the lake home, from shoals of kapenta, to bream and the most famous of all, the tiger fish. An indigenous species, the tiger fish is revered for its strength and ferocity, making it one of the most sought-after game fish on the continent. Our guide for the duration of our time at Bumi Hills was Madison Siakalangu, a guide of the ‘old school’, passionate, professional and knowledgeable. The only chink in Madison’s armour was his competitive addiction to fishing. On our second day, to humour my husband, I agreed to a fishing expedition and this was where Madison’s secret obsession with fishing came to light. The morning was spent fishing for bream, with the occasional barbel (catfish) and other indeterminate varieties, the names of which my non-fishing self can no longer remember. I soaked up the sun and the view, while the menfolk indulged in some fairly competitive fishing and mild banter. At the end of the morning we retired to a nearby island to be spoilt with a luxury picnic lunch. Calling a pause to the fishing competition, we added white-winged black terns, grey-headed gulls and a breeding colony of Kittlitz’s plovers to our bird count. After

lunch there were calls for the fishing to continue, but being all ‘fished out’ by now, I retired to the lodge for some well-deserved pampering with a relaxing massage, while the two men headed out to hunt for tigers.

By the end of the day the score was a tally of eight bream for Zambia (my husband) and seven for Zimbabwe (Madison), with Madison catching the sole tiger fish of the day – they reluctantly declared a draw.

Easing myself out of bed for an early run on the treadmill just as the sun came up, I was distracted by a troop of baboons nesting in the huge baobab trees opposite our verandah. Clearly they had slept in the trees and were waking up just the same as me. Three individuals in particular caught my eye, as they were only a few metres away. Mother and baby, and what I assumed to be a close relative, stirred in the tree. The baby ventured further and further from his mother and then scampered back when nerves got the better of him. Eventually the baby climbed into mother’s arms and the family sat silently in the branches of the tree, gazing out at the rising sun and waiting for the day to commence, just as I was doing inside our room. I left them to it and headed off for my run.

A final, fabulous breakfast on the terrace and then it was time to drag ourselves away from paradise. If you have to leave Bumi Hills, then what better way to do it than in a tiny private ‘plane, swooping and soaring over the glistening and seemingly endless water…a sensational way to be eased back into reality?

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