Guide book 2nd Edition

Foreword This second edition is more than just a guidebook, whether international or local. We have tried our best to uniquely enrichen the information from the last edition and made some changes on the format.

The book highlights the other face of Ethiopia not known to the outside world; its adventurous traditions. Ethiopia is, however, known for its history and culture, but it has been a country of adventure since antiquity. Anyone who thinks about adventure tourism should consider Ethiopia.

The book tries to cover in detail about attractions by region with tourist maps by route, parks and wildlife, different tourist activities, and events & festivals among others. The architectural marvels of Ethiopia, Ethiopian traditional art and economic aspects of the country as well are new additions.

All parts of the country are covered because we believe that when tourism is focused on only a few sites, as has been the case in Ethiopia it is easy for a few individuals to control and take most of the benefits, leaving others out in the cold. This also sacrifices the diversity that history has bequeathed such countries as Ethiopia.

Our guide book also serves as the most complete directory in Ethiopia that specializes in accommodation, restaurant, cafes, nightlife, shopping, tour and travel, and tourist sites arranged in that order. The accommodation section is further broken down by geographical region. Restaurants are grouped by cuisine, and shopping is arranged by department, from souvenirs and books to clothes and supermarkets. The shopping section also contains a significant list of beauty salons and spas.

It highlights new tourist sites, including recent improvements in lodging, complete with info boxes that help the traveler compare the prices, services, and amenities of each.

We hope to get valuable feedback from you our readers for the next edition’s update.

For up-to-date information, our complimentary websites: www.ethiopianhoteldirectory.com, www. guidetoethiopia.com features detailed tourist sites, tour packages, booking services, price updates, and traveler reviews.

Enjoy exploring the adventurous Ethiopia.

ERMIAS BISRAT

Acknowledgements We would like to thank the Ethiopian Airlines, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Ethiopian Ministry of Culture & Tourism (MOCT), many regional bureaus; namely those of Addis Abeba, Tigray, Amhara and the Harari. We are grateful to the Southern Nations, the Hawassa Administration and Dire Dawa Tourism Bureau for their support and generosity in sharing their time and in many cases data files on the sites located within their jurisdictions as well as beyond. The Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority (EWCA) and SDPSAE were instrumental in providing information on the parks and sanctuaries, which was revised several times. The Frankfurt Zoological Society (www.fzs.org) especially Biniyam Admassu was of great help for his contribution on Bale Mountains articles and the quality pictures of his colleagues. Ato Hailemelekot Agizew’s contribution on the architectural and historical part was also tremendous.

We are also grateful to the Ethiopian Sustainable Tourism Development Project (ESTDP). The Ethiopian Tour Operators Association and the Society of Tour Operators in Addis Abeba also helped us in which we uphold as being of utmost importance for the future of tourism in Ethiopia.

Tony Hickey, general manager of Ethiopian Quadrants, a tour company based in Addis Abeba, shared his expertise and itineraries in the sector.

Fitsum Gezahegne, general manager of Paradise Ethiopia Travel also shared his expertise in the sector.

Antonio Fiorente’s photographic contributions and useful information on unique sites have helped us to raise the level of quality and professionalism of this guidebook.

Finally, we would like to thank all of our team members (foreign and local staff) without which this project couldn’t attain the level and international standards that we strived for.

Disclaimer: Prices listed in the advertisements may be out of date, given the rapid changes in the Ethiopian economy. Check for updates on www.ethiopianhoteldirectory.com.

Claims of hotel star ratings in ads should be ignored as the standards are under review by the MOCT and may be misleading.

Advertisement information published in this guide book are provided and finally approved by the client.

No part of this book may be reproduced or duplicated in any form without written permission from the publisher or the author: COPYRIGHT ©2015 Weave Promotion and Marketing PLC/ Ermias Bisrat.

Cover Picture: Ethiopian Wolf in the Sanetti Plateau of the Bale Mountains Cover Photo: Vincent Munier All right reserved 2015, 2nd Edition Weave Promotion & Marketing P.L.C. Tel: +251 11 661 63 01 Email: guide2ethiopia@gmail.com, ermiasbisrat@gmail.com Addis Abeba, Ethiopia Unless credited, all photography is by the regional Tourism Bureaus or our staff.

Contents Travel Tips ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Land 6 , Climate 6, Topography 7, Getting there 7, Entry 7, Visas 7, Domestic Airports 8, Entry points by road 8, Economy 8, People and Culture 8, Language 8, Electric Supply 9, Time Zone 9, Predominant Religions 9, Banking Hours 9, Currency 9, Coins 9, ATMs 9, Communication 10 , Working Hours 10, Fiscal Year 10, Water 10, Driving and Taxis 10, Public Holidays 11, Health 11, Customs 11, What to Wear 12, Social Norms 12, Entrance Fees 12, Foods and Drinks 12, Ethiopian Phrases 13, Overview of Ethiopian History -----------------------------------------------------------------Ancient Christian Art, Treasures and Calligraphy -------------------------------------------Painting 21, Calligraphy and Manuscripts 24, Crosses 26 Architecture of Ethiopia --------------------------------------------------------------------------Axumite Architecture 28, The Zagwe Dynasty Architecture 29, The Solomonic Dynasty (Gondarine) Architecture 30, The Axum Houses 30, Eastern Houses 31, Southern Dwellings 32, Addis Abeba 34, The Ethiopian Economy Then and Now -------------------------------------------------------Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia -----------------------------------------------------------------Trekking and Camping 58, Trekking Itinerary in the Bale Mountains 61, Mountain Biking 67, Road Cycling 69, Rock Climbing 71, Motor Biking 74, Boating 75, River Rafting 78,Wildlife Safaris 79, Fishing 83, Hunting 83, Birding 84, Horse Riding 85, Private Flight Tours 86, Caving 86, Hot springs 87, Pilgrimages and Festivals 88, Conference Tourism 91, Great Ethiopian Run 92 Addis Abeba ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------History/Establishment 94, Climate and Location 96, Sporting and Entertainment 96 Getting Around 97, Forex, ATMs and Communications 98 Addis Abeba Sights --------------------------------------------------------------------------------Old City Center 99, Old Shopping Center - Piazza (Arada) 105, Central Market - Mercato 107, Africa Avenue & Bole Medhane Alem Road 107, Arat Kilo and Sidist Kilo Area 110 Accomodation -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Acoomodation, Hotels and Hotel Apartments in Addis Abeba 115-136 Listing of Hotels in Addis Abeba 137-141 Guesthouses and their Listings in Addis Abeba 142-152 Day trips from Addis ------------------------------------------------------------------------------Gojam Road -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Entoto 154, The Emperor Menelik’s Palace 154, Chancho, Mugher Gorge and Jemma Valley 154, DebreLibanos 155 Ambo Road --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Menagesha Forest 156, Addis Alem (DebreTsion Kiddus Mariam Church) 156 Mount Wonchi 157, Ambo (HagereHiwot) 157, Dessie Road --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Debre Birhan 157, Ankober 157 Jimma Road -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Adadi Mariam and Melka Konturé 158, Tiya Stelae fields 158, Welisso 158 Addis To Adama Road -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Mount Zuqualla 159, Bishoftu (DebreZeit) 159, Adama (Nazareth) 159 Hotels in Bishoftu (Debrezeit) and Adama (Nazareth) --------------------------------------Listing of Hotels Around Addis Abeba 166, Listing of Hotels in Northern Ethiopia 166-171, Listing of Hotels in Eastern Ethiopia 171-173, Listing of Hotels in Southern Ethiopia 173-177 Listing of Hotels in Western Ethiopia 177 Restaurants ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Ethiopian Cuisine 182, Alcoholic Beverages 184, Coffee 184, Foreign Cuisine 185, Restaurants With Different Cuisines: Chinese 186-187, Ethiopian/ International 188-191, Ethiopian Traditional 192, European 193, Japanese 194, Greek 194, French 195, International 196 - 204, Indian 205, Italian 206, Korean 207, Mediterranean 208, Sea - food 209, Yemeni 210, Pizzeria 211, Fast Food Joints 212 - 214, Listing of Restaurants , Pizzeria and Fast Food Joints, From It’s Origins in Kaffa, Here Comes Black Gold- Coffee ---------------------------------

6

15 20 28

36 54

94 99

115

154 154 156 157 158 159 160-165

179

222

Advertisement & Listing of Coffee Shops, Bakeries & Pastries 223-231 Night Life -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Night Life in Addis Abeba 234-243 Shopping --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Markets 248, Malls and Shopping Centers 248, Art and Crafts 249, Souvenirs & Gifts 252 Jewelry 252, Traditional Clothing 255 Listing and Advertisements of Traditional Cloths, Galleries, Jewelry,Souvenirs, Malls, Fitness & Sport Centers, Florists, Supermarkets, Camping Equipments, Beverages & Liquor, Meat Products, Spa & Salons, Bank & Insurance 256-277 Tour and Travel ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Travel Around 281 Tour Operators, Car Rentals, Private Air Operators and Airlines in Ethiopia 282-308 Northern Ethiopia ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------Amhara 311, Addis Abeba to Blue Nile Gorge 313, Bahir Dar 313, Lake Tana 315, Blue Nile Falls (World Heritage Site) 316, Debre Tabor 316, Gondar 317, Royal Enclosure 317, Hotels in Gondar 320-321,Getting Around Gondar 322, Alatish National Park 322, Simien Mountains National Park 322, Simien Mountain Treks with Ethiopian Quadrants --------------------------------------------Lalibela and its Rock Hewn Churches 330, Hotels in Lalibela 336-339 Abune Yoseph Community Conservatiion Area (ACCA) --------------------------------------Sekota 340, Shaday Festival 340, Woldiya 340, Dessie 340, Around Dessie 340, Hayq Estifanos Church and Lake Logo 340, Maqdalla Hill 340, Kombolcha 341, ----------Bati & Kemmissie (Bati and Senbete Markets) 341, Borkana and Aweyitu Hotsprings 342 Tirusina 346, Shonke Village 346, Debresina 346, Borena Sayint National Park 347 Menz Guassa Community Conservation Area (GCCA) ---------------------------------------Debrebirhan 350, Ankober 350 Tigrai 352 1. Mekelle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Sights to visit in Mekelle 355, Emperor Yohannes IV museum 355, Traditional “Hidmo” houses 355, Martyr’s Memorial and Museum 355 2. Wukro and It’s Surrounding ------------------------------------------------------------------Abraha we Atsbeha Rock-Hewn Church 356, Atsbi Area 356, Mikael Imba Rock-Hewn Church 356, Mikael Debreselam357, Negash Mosque 357, Tseada Imba Area 357, Petros we Pawlos 358, 3. Gheralta and It’s Surrounding ----------------------------------------------------------------Hawzien 358, Gheralta 358, The Monastery of GundaGundo 359 Hotels and Restaurants in Mekelle & Adigrat ------------------------------------------------4. Adigrat to Axum --------------------------------------------------------------------------------Adigrat 365, The Monastery of Debre Damo 365, The Temple of Yeha 365, Adwa 366, Abbi Addi and Surrounding 366, Tembien 366 5. Axum and Surrounding -----------------------------------------------------------------------Main Stelae field 370, Tomb of the False Door 371, Mausoleum 371 Hotels in Axum ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Nefas Mawcha 374, Tomb of the Brick Arches 374, The Archeological museum 374, Northern Stelae Field 375, Enda Eyesus Church 375, Fitawrari Belay’s Ethnographic Museum 375, Queen of Sheba’s Bath (The Mai’shum Reservoir)375, Church of Tsion Mariam 375, Chapel of the Ark of the Covenant 376, Kafta Shiraro National Park 376 Eastern Ethiopia -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------The Afar --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Awash National Park 380, Alledeghi Wildlife Reserve 382, Yangudi - Rassa National Park 382, Mille 382, Semera 383, Erta-Ale 383, Danakil or Dallol Depression 384, Dire Dawa ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------City Attractions 386, Millennium Park 386, Rail excursion 386, Dire Dawa Market (Kafira Market) 386, Cave Paintings in Dire Dawa, Lega Oda Cave 386, Porc Epic Cave 387, Goda-Agawa 387, Goda-Oromo 389, Hotels in Dire Dawa 387, 388 The Walled City of Harar ------------------------------------------------------------------------The Jugol 390, The Arthur Rimbaud, Collection Center 390, Harari Handicrafts 390, The Harari Cultural House (Gey Gar) 391, Hyena Feeding 391, Kulubi 391, Babile & The Valley of Rock Marvels 392, Kundudo Mountains 392, Somali (Somalia) -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

233 244

278 308

324 333 340 348 355 356

358 360-364 365 367 372- 373

377 380

385

389

392

Historical sites 393, Culture 393, Natural Attractions 393, Jijiga 393, Geraille National Park 393, Afar Treks with Ethiopian Quadrants ------------------------------------------------------------ 394 Southern Ethiopia ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 401 Southern Ethiopia 402, UNESCO Registered World heritage sites in the Southern Region 402, Lower Omo Valley 402, Tiya 403, Konso Cultural Landscape 403 Hawassa ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 404 Natural Attractions in and Around Hawassa , Lake Hawassa 406, “Teha Goda” Island 406, Amora Gedel / Gudumale Park (Fish Market) 406, Mount Tabor 407, Mount Alamura 407, Burqitu Hot spring (spa Attraction) 408, Natural Reserve (Sanctuary) –Millennium Park 408, Historical Attractions: The Loke Palace 409, The 1st Governmental Office (Hawella Wereda Governing office) 409, Kuyowatta Cannon (Artillery) 409, Residential Palace of Ras Mengesha Seyoum 409, Haranfama Stelae 409 The Corner Stone (The Foundation Stone) 410, Cultural Attractions: Sidama Cultural Hall 410, The Statue of Sidama Nation 410, Traditional Festival-‘Fiche’ 411, Hawassa St. Gabriel Church 411 Hotels in Hawassa ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 412-417 1. Southern Main Route – Addis Abeba via Butajira to Jinka ----------------------------------- 419 Melka Konture 419, Adadi Mariam 419, Tiya 419, Butajira Town 420, Siltie 420, Hadiya 420, Lake Boyo 420, Kembata 421, Ajora Waterfalls 421, Wolaita 421, GamoGofa 422, NechSar National Park 422, Paradise Lodge 423, Lake Abaya 424, Lake Chamo 424, The Arbaminch Crocodile Farm 422, Chencha 423, Birbir Mariam 425, The Dorze people 425, Karat Konso 426, Walled Villages of Konso 426, Gesergio 427, Eco-Omo Safari Lodge 428 Southern Omo -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 429 Karat Konso to Jinka Road via Weito, Key Afer and Qako 429 Weito 429, Key Afer 429, Qako 429, The Ari 429 Weito to Turmi via Arbore and Lake Chew Bahir The Tsemai 430, Arbore 431, Lake Chew Bahir 432 The Hamers: Turmi and Dimeka 433, Turmi 434, Dimeka 434, Omorate 435, The Dasanech, 435, The Karo 435, Lake Turkana 435, Murelle 436, The Bumi 436, Mago National Park 436, The Mursi 437, The Bodi 437, Jinka to Maze National Park through Basketo and Sawla 438, Maze National Park 438 2. South Eastern Route: Addis Abeba via Mojo , the Rift Valley Lakes and Hawassa to the Kenyan Border --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 439 Addis Abeba to the Southern Rift Valley Lakes 439, Southern Rift Valley Lakes 439, Lake Koka 439, Lake Ziway 439, Lepis Forest 439, Lepis Craft Shop 440, Lake Langano 440, Lakes Abiata and Shalla 440, Abiata-Shalla Lakes National Park 441, Shashemene and Its Surrounds 441, Bale Mountains National Park -------------------------------------------------------------------- 442 Sof - Omar 443, Dire Sheik Hussien 443 Wondo Genet 444, Senkele Swayne’s Hartebeest Sanctuary 444, Halaba Kulito Town 444, Hawassa 444, Dilla 444 Hotels in Dilla and Yirgacheffe ----------------------------------------------------------------445-448 Yabello to Moyale (Ethio – Kenya Border) 449, Yabello National Park 449, Segen Area Peoples 449, Burji 449, Amaro 449, Derashe 449, 3. South Western Route: Addis Abeba viaWolkite, Jimma to the Kaffa Coffee Biosphere, Bench Maji, Southwest Omo and Sheka Forest --------------------------------- 449 Addis Abeba to Guraghe 450, Mihur Eyesus Monastery 450, Gibe National Park 450, Yem 450, Jimma 450, Konta 450, Dawro 451, Chebera-Churchura National Park 451, Kaffa – Bonga 451, Bonga 452, The Kaffa Coffee Biosphere Reserve 452, Bench Maji 454, Mizan- Aman 454, Ussika Hot Springs 454, Bebeka 454, Tepi 454, Southwest Omo 455 Omo National Park 455, Sheka Zone - Masha 456, The Sheka Forest Biosphere Reserve 456 Western Ethiopia ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 457 Jimma 460, Jimma Aba Jiffar Museum 460, Jimma Aba Jiffar Museum 460, Sor Waterfalls 460, Nekemt 460, Wolega Museum 460 Gambella 461, Gambella National Park 461, Benishangul Gumuz 462 UNESCO Registered World Heritage Sites of Ethiopia ---------------------------------------- 463 Useful Numbers ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 464 Diplomatic Missions In Ethiopia 465-466, Ethiopian Diplomatic Missions Abroad 466-468 Index Of Advertisers ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 469-470 References ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 471 Maps:- Addis Ababa Sights 100,101, 109, Amhara Map 312, Tigrai Map 354, Southern Region Map 418

Travel Tips Land

Ethiopia, covering an area of 1.14 million square Km, is the tenth largest country in Africa. It is located in East Africa in the sub-region known as the Horn of Africa, between the approximate latitudes of 4 and 14 degrees north. The south end of Ethiopia’s Danakil Depression ends in neighboring Djibouti at the lowest place on the continent and is, perhaps, the most daring place to visit for adventure-loving tourists. At the opposite end of the elevation spectrum are the rugged Simien Mountains and Bale Mountains, home to different endemic animals, and, in between, is the Great Rift Valley with its lakes and volcanic crater lakes.

Climate

There are two distinct seasons in Ethiopia. The dry season prevails from October through May; the wet season runs from June to September, but there is also a short rainy season in March or April, especially toward southern Ethiopia, and rain can happen at any time of the year. However, even during the long rainy season, bright, warm sun usually breaks through the clouds at least once a day. The climate is mainly influenced by altitude and cloud cover rather than the time of the year. This is due to its proximity to the equator. The main climatic regions are as follows:

• Alpine climate (worch)

This area covers the afro-alpine zone, much of it above the tree line, with temperatures generally below 10 degrees C. Snow is possible at any time of the year, but usually falls as hail that can accumulate on the ground, even at lower altitudes.

• Cool to cold climate (degga)

This is typical of the cool highlands where the average temperature falls between 10 and 16 degrees C. The altitude ranges from 2,600m to 3,200m above sea level.

8

• Warm to cool climate (weyna degga)

The average annual temperature ranges between 16 and 20 degrees C and includes most of the highlands between 1,500m and 2,600m above sea level.

• Warm to hot climate (kolla)

This is the climate of the hot lowlands. The average temperature ranges between 20 and 30 degrees C. The altitude ranges from 500m to 1,500m above sea level.

•Hot and arid climate (bereha)

This area covers the desert lowlands less than 500m above sea level with an average annual temperature of over 30 degrees C. The eastern and the northeastern lowlands have desert climates, while the lowlands on the western and southern margins are humid and tropical, with mean annual temperatures of 22 and 30 degrees C, respectively. Rainfall is heavier in the western half of the country, varying from 800mm per year in the northwest to over 2,200mm per year in the southwest. The northeastern and southeastern parts of Ethiopia, on the other hand, are drier with annual rainfalls ranging from 1,000mm to less than 200mm.

Topography

Ethiopia is a land of rugged mountains, broad savannahs, and many lakes and rivers.

The country is composed of an elevated central plateau generally varying in height from 2,000m and 3,000m. In the north and center of the country, there are up to 25 mountains whose peaks rise over 4,000m, the tallest being Ras Dejen (which means Head Guard), known as Ras Dashen, which is 4,543m in elevation. The most famous Ethiopian river is the Blue Nile (Abay), which runs a course of 1,450km from its source at Lake Tana, to join the White Nile in Khartoum.

Getting there

All international flights arrive and depart from Bole International Airport in Addis Abeba. The national carrier, Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com) is Africa’s oldest airline, and it has an excellent safety record, as well as the most extensive intraAfrican flight network of any carrier, and links to several major European and North American cities. Dire Dawa airport serves as an entry port. Bahir Dar and Mekelle Airports will soon start to serve as entry ports.

Entry

All visitors require passport, with at least two full pages empty, valid for at least six months after the end of their stay. Visa is also required.

Visas

Visitors are required to carry a valid passport and sufficient funds to facilitate their stay.

Visas are required for all foreign visitors to Ethiopia, with the exception of nationals of Djibouti and Kenya. A visa application may be obtained at Ethiopia’s diplomatic missions overseas where visas are readily available. However, nationals of 37 countries are now allowed to receive their tourist visas upon arrival in Ethiopia at the regular charge.

Check at your nearest Ethiopian Embassy for the list.

9

Domestic Airports

There are 19 Airports for domestic flights in Addis Abeba, Arbaminch, Assosa, Axum, Bahir Dar, Dire Dawa, Gambella, Gode, Gondar, Humera, Jijiga, Jimma, Kombolcha, Lalibela, Mekelle, Pawe(no scheduled flights yet), Robe, Semera and Shire.

Entry points by road

. Metema & Humera – crossing from sudan . Dewele & Galafi- crossing from Djibouti . Toguchale, Teferi Ber, Kebri Beyah & Dolo odo- crossing from Somalia . Moyale & Omorate- crossing from Kenya NB: There are only entry points and no Visa service available. Visa can only be obtained from Ethiopian Embassies.

Economy

Ethiopia is predominantly an agricultural county where it accounts for about 42.9% of the country’s gross domestic product (GDP), more than 90% of total exports, and at least 85% of employment. The principal exports from this sector are coffee, finished leather products, oilseeds, pulses, khat, flowers, vegetables, and foodstuffs for animals.

There is also a thriving livestock sector, exporting cattle on the hoof. Recently, gold was the second largest export.

People and Culture

Ethiopia, with a population of up to 93.8 million by some estimates, is the second most populous nation in Africa. The Ethiopian people are composed of different ethnic, religious, and linguistic backgrounds ranging from Cushitic and Nilotic, like other East African countries, to Semitic like those found in the Middle East. The population is composed of more than 80 ethnic groups. The Oromo and the Amhara are the largest groups.

Courtesy and hospitality are virtues that have transcended time and generations in Ethiopia, inviting visitors to truly feel welcome. A few words of a local language, no matter how broken they may be, will go a long way in the kind hearts of the people. The day-to-day rituals of the diverse cultures, the traditional ways of eating delicious spicy sauces by hand with enjera flatbread, and the wholesome aromas of Ethiopian coffee ceremony can only be fully experienced by indulging oneself in these delights.

Language

A country of up to 90 languages and more than 200 dialects, Ethiopia is a multiethnic state with a great variety of languages spoken in one country. The official working language of Ethiopia is Amharic, with its own distinctive writing system, while Tigrinya, Guraghegnya, Sidama, Somali, and especially Oromiffa are widely spoken, not to mention English, especially among the capital’s younger generations. English is understood in most hotels and major towns. It is also the medium of instruction in secondary and higher education institutions.

10

Electric Supply

The electricity supply in the country is 220 volts AC, at 50 cycles. Electric wall outlets are usually of the thin two-pole type. Weights and measures are expressed using the metric system.

Time Zone

Ethiopia is three hours ahead of GMT. The Ethiopian calendar is based on the Julian calendar, which consists of 12 months of 30 days each, and a 13th month of five or 6 (on a leap year) days. The calendar is 7 years behind the Western or Gregorian calendar, with New Year’s Day falling in the month of September.

Predominant Religions

The peaceful existence of Christianity and Islam, the two major religions in Ethiopia, which entered the country near their times of founding, demonstrates the hospitality of the country. Both entered Ethiopia in what is now Tigrai Regional State. Axum hosts the famous Ark of the Covenant brought from Jerusalem, and Negash hosts the location of the oldest mosque in Africa where the Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) sent his followers to seek protection from hostilities in Arabia in the form of temporary asylum from the then-king or Nejashi of Axum, which may have been Armha.

Banking Hours

There are a number of banks within easy reach. Banking hours are generally from 8:00am until at least 4:30pm, Monday through Saturday. Most banks work through lunchtime. However, foreign exchange services are closed during lunch hours (12:00 noon to 1:00pm).

Currency

The local currency is the Ethiopian Birr. The Birr is divided into 100 cents. Denominations are: Notes: Birr 100, Birr 50, Birr 10, Birr five, and Birr one.

Coins:

Birr one, 50 cents, 25 cents, 10 cents, five cents, and one cent.

There are no restrictions on the amount of foreign currency brought into the country, provided it is declared upon arrival. Foreign currency may be changed only at authorized banks and hotels. A currency declaration form will be required by customs upon departure. Visitors may change any excess Birr into foreign currency at the airport before departure but only with all receipts for exchange transactions.

ATMs

Cash may be withdrawn from automated teller machines in major cities using VISA, MasterCard, and Union Pay debit cards, but it is best not to rely on these outside of Addis Abeba yet. VISA and MasterCard credit cards are honored in big hotels in major cities and some malls in Addis Abeba. US traveler’s checks are recommended.

11

Communication

All modern forms of communication, be they telephone, mobile, fax, or Internet, are available, as telecommunication in Ethiopia is generally good. Telephones have direct dialing to most countries in the world. Coin operated booths are available in major cities. Airtime cards are sold at most shops and hotels. The country code is 251 and Addis Abeba’s area code is 11 (or 011 if calling from within the country).

One should not be surprised if they happen to witness a farmer pulling out his cell phone with one hand while holding his plough with the other hand or witness a woman in an open market selling butter call to ask her supplier in town about the situation who is at the market. Fax and Internet are available in most offices and Internet cafes are available in both cities and towns. People using their own wireless USB modems with their laptops are a common sight in metropolitan cafes, but connection speeds are often slow. Postal and courier services are efficient and reliable. For courier services, DHL, FedEx, UPS, TNT, and EMS have offices in Addis Abeba.

Working Hours

Government office hours are from 8:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30pm to 5:30pm, Monday through Thursday. Working hours on Friday are 8:30am to 11:30am and 1:30pm to 5:30pm. Private businesses are often open on Saturdays.

Museums and other historical sites generally keep similar hours, but also open on Saturdays and Sundays (Perhaps slightly shortened hours). National Park and other natural sites of interest are typically open to day visitors from around sunrise to sunset (say 06.00 to 18.00). However, most churches of interest to tourist have no fixed opening hours beyond mass times, and may close almost anytime at the whim of the priest.

Fiscal Year

Ethiopia’s fiscal year begins on July 8 and ends on July 7.

Water

Drinking tap water is not recommended, especially for foreign visitors, but bottled water is widely available in many shops, hotels, and restaurants throughout the country.

You may use any brand of bottled water as all are safe and reliable.

Driving and Taxis

Driving is on the right-hand side of the road, and visitors may use certain countries’ valid driving license for up to 30 days. After that, the foreign license must be used to obtain an Ethiopian driving license.

Wearing of seat belts is enforced for drivers. The maximum speed limit within the city is 60km/hr. Car rental services with or without a driver are available in major cities.

There are a number of local taxi services that are available 24 hours a day. Privatelyowned blue cabs and more expensive yellow cabs are also in abundance but do not have fixed rates, establishing the fare is advised before getting into the vehicle. Shared minibus taxis are the cheapest, though sometimes uncomfortable way to travel.

12

Public Holidays

Non-Islamic public holidays are celebrated according to the Ethiopian (Coptic or Julian) calendar. The corresponding dates in the Gregorian calendar are listed below.

Ethiopian leap year, which usually happens in the September before that of the Gregorian, can push the dates of such holidays that fall from September to February forward by one day (by which time Gregorian leap year catches up).

September 11 (or 12) - Addis Amet or Kiddus Yohannes (Ethiopian New Year’s Day) September 27 (or 28) - Mesqel (The Finding of the True Cross) August 19 (2012) - Eid al Fitr (Breaking the Fast Festival at the end of Ramadan) October 26 (2012) - Eid al Adha (Sacrifice Festival) January 7 (or 8) - Genna or Yegeta Liddet (Ethiopian Christmas) January 19 (or 20) - Timkat (Ethiopian Epiphany) March 2 - Victory of Adwa (1896) January 24 (2013) - Mawlid an Nabi Day (Birth of the Prophet Mohammed PBUH) April 28 - Hosanna (Palm Sunday) May 1 - International Labor Day May 3 - Seklet (Ethiopian Good Friday) May 5 - Fasika (Ethiopian Easter) May 5 - Ethiopian Patriots’ Victory Day (1941) May 28 - Downfall of the Derg Regime Day (1991) Ethiopian Easter follows the eastern method of calculation based on the moon and generally occurs after western Easter. Breaking of the fast and Birth of the Prophet festivals are subject to moon sightings and are based on the Islamic lunar calendar, falling about 11 days behind the previous Gregorian calendar year’s date each year.

Health

Affordable medical services are available in Ethiopia at government clinics. Services of private medical practitioners may also be utilized. Prior to entry, visitors should be in possession of a valid health certificate for yellow fever. Certificates may be required for entry, especially if transiting through a country where yellow fever is endemic, such as Kenya. Vaccination against cholera is also required for any person who has visited or transited through a cholera-infected area within 6 days prior to arrival in Ethiopia.

Customs

Duty-free items are allowed for visitors. However, there is a limit on the amount of items sold. 500cc (0.5 liters) of perfume, two liters of alcoholic liquors, 250 grams of tobacco, 200 cigarettes, and 100 cigars are allowed for each visitors to buy duty-free.

Professional articles, items, and samples, including those imported by businessmen and commercial travelers, like cameras, film, photographic equipment, radio equipment, sound recording apparatuses, and equipment of foreign correspondents or any other specialized materials imported for professional use as well as firearms (for sport) are subject to special permit.

13

Regarding taking items outside the country, visitors are allowed to take souvenir items, but wildlife products must have been approved by the relevant government authority, and some antiques may require a permit from the National Museum. Take the goods and a receipt from the shopkeeper and go to the National Museum to approve such purchases.

What to Wear

Light clothing is sufficient most of the year, similar to what you might wear on a warm European summer (though not so scanty not to offend local sensibilities), but it is advisable to carry some warm clothing, such as a light jacket, as temperatures drop at nighttime, especially from October through December, as well as during rainstorms.

The highest altitudes above 3,000m usually require thick, winter clothing. It is recommended to dress formally for official engagements.

Social Norms

A handshake greeting is normal, but a limp wrist may be offered instead of a hand if the hand is dirty or wet. Kissing each cheek is traditionally done to show a hearty welcome, but simply nudging right shoulder together is more common, nowadays. The public display of certain emotions is regarded to be in poor taste, most obviously any informal public show of affection- such as holding hands, kissing or embracing-between males and females. It is also considered bad to show anger publicly, and losing your temper will almost certainly be counter productive when dealing with obtuse officials, dopey waiters and hotel employees, or uncooperative drivers. Male and Female homosexuality is not only unacceptable to most Ethiopians, but strictly illegal and punishable.

Shoes should be removed when entering Ethiopian Orthodox churches and mosques.

There are also some churches in which only men are allowed to enter.

Entrance Fees

These are charged at most museums, national parks, historical sites and churches, but they will generally be included in the price of an organized tour. If you need to pay yourself, fees are generally quite moderate by international standards, though the church fees can add up over the course of a trip to somewhere such as Tigrai. To give an example, the blanket fee for all the churches at Lalibela is birr 1000 (around US$50).

Food and Drink Food

Contrary to some people’s expectation, Ethiopia is liberally endowed with good eateries, though the vast majority of restaurants outside of Addis Abeba adhere strictly to the cuisine, which is quite unlike that of any other African Country, eating out in Ethiopia is ridiculously cheap, with local meals in remote areas costing less than or around 1 USD, while a Western meal will rob you of 2 to 4 USD.

Drink

The Kaffa province is thought to be where coffee originated, and the coffee bean accounts for more than half of Ethiopia’s exports. As a consequence, many Ethiopians are coffee- addicts and the espresso style coffee (buna), served with two spoons of sugar, is rich, sweet and thoroughly addictive. The prime soft drink is fresh fruit juice, most

14

commonly banana, avocado, papaya and guava, with availability dependent on season and location. The usual soft brand drinks are widely available and very cheap. The most popular local tipple is tej, a mead-like drink made from honey (mar) or (sugar). Mar tej is a considerable improvement on most African home brews and very alcoholic, but still something of an acquired taste. Locally brewed beer, made from millet or maze, is called tella. Bottled lager is sold throughout Ethiopia, with popular brands being Dashen, Castel, Bati, Bedele, St.George, Harar and Heineken. Wine is brewed locally; the result is indifferent but affordable, especially if bought directly from a shop.

Ethiopian Phrases

Learn a few words of Amharic (Amarignya). Unlike the Latin alphabet, the vowels in Amharic are contained in the 7 forms of each of the main characters of the Amharic script, which can make learning written Amharic difficult. But, here are a few words that can go a long way during any stay in Ethiopia. Knowing another language allows one to cross rivers.

How are you?

- Dehna neh?

(For males) - Dehna nesh?

(For females) Where is …?

- Yet no …?

Excuse me - Yikirta How much is it? - Sint no?

Thank you - Ameseginalehu Please - Ebakih (for males) - Ebakish (for females

DAYS OF THE WEEK Sunday Monday Tuesda Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday

- Ihud - Segno - Maksegno - Erob - Hamus - Arb - Kedame

USEFUL WORDS Today Tomorrow Yesterday Now Quickly Slowly Mr. Mrs. Miss I You He, She We They What?

Who? When?

- Zare - Nege - Tilant - Ahun - Tolo - Kes - Ato - Weyzero - Weyzerit - Ene - Ersewo - Esu, Essoa - Egna - Ennessu - Min? - Man? - Metche?

How? Why? Which?

Yes (all right) No Excuse me I am sorry Good Bad Hello Good Morning Good afternoon Good evening Goodbye How are you?

- Endet?

- Lemin?

- Yetignaw?

- Eshi - Aydelem/ Ayhonem - Yikirta - Aznallehu - Tiru/ melkam - Metfo - Halo - Endemn adderu /k(M)/sh(F) - Endemn walu /k (M)/sh(F) - Endemn ameshu /k (M)/sh(F) - Dehnahunu /hun(M)/hugne(F) - Tenayistilign /endemen not? eh(M)/ esh(F)

15

You’re welcome - Minim aydel My name is…

- Sime….no Please sit down - Yikemetu /tekemet(M) /tekemech(F) What is your name?

- Simewo man no? h(M)/ sh(F) Where do you come from - keyet metu? Ah(M) /ash(F) [ - Hagero yet no?eh (M) /esh(F)

I come from…

- Ke…. Metahu My country is…

- Hagere… no Can you speak Amharic?

- Amaregna yenageralu? Tenageraleh(M)

- Tenageriyalesh(F) Only a little - Tinish I want to learn more - Yebelete memar ifelegalehu How do you find Ethiopia - Itiyopiyan endet agegnuat? hat(M) /shat(F) I like it here - Itiyopiya Tesmamtognal

DIRECTIONS Where(place) - Yet? Where is it?

- Yet no?

Where?(Direction - Wodet?

Street/road - Menged Airport - Awiroplan marefeya Where is the hotel?

- Hotelu yet no?

Where are you going?

- Yet iyehedu no? eh(M)/ esh(F) I am going to…

- Wede… iyehedku no Turn right - Wede kegn yitatefu/tatef(M)/ tatefi(F) Turn left - Wede gra yitatefu/ tatef(M) / tatefi(F) Go straight - Ketita yihidu/ hid(M)/ higi(F) Please stop here - Ezih yikumu/ kum(M) / kumi(F) Come - Na(M)/ ney(F) / nu(P) Go - Hid(M)/ hig(F) / hidu(P) Stop - Kum(M) /kumi(F) /kumu(P) Help - Irdagn(M) /irgegn(F) /irdugn(P)

NUMBERS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

16

- And - Hulet - Sost - Arat - Amist - Sidist - Sebat

8 9 10 20 30 40 50 60

- Semmint - Zetegn - Asser - Haya - Selasa - Arba - Amsa - Silsa

70 80 90 100 1000 10000

- Seba - Semanya - Zetena - Meto - And shi - Aser shi

Overview of Ethiopian History Ethiopia is a land that has enjoyed a very long and rich history. It is one of few nations that can trace its establishment back through millennia towards the very dawn of civilization. Proof of Ethiopia’s existence in antiquity is rife. The word Ethiopia (or Cush as it was known to the Jews) is mentioned about 12 times in the Old Testament alone.

Greek historians and writers constantly refer to Ethiopia whenever they describe lands immediately south of Egypt.

Ethiopia is believed to be the origin of mankind as attested by the earliest Hominid fossil ever to be discovered. Lucy or Dinkinesh is a 3.2 million year old skeleton of a bipedal hominine, Australopithecus afarensis, discovered in Afar regional state and on display at the National Museum in Addis Abeba. The Afar region has also yielded evidence of the earliest stone tools ever to have been discovered, dating back to 2.5 million years and manufactured by a hitherto unknown hominine species. Although it is almost impossible to conjecture the exact place that Homo sapiens took their first steps, two skulls discovered in 1967 in southern Ethiopia dated to be 195,000 years old in 2005, are referred to being the oldest known fossil of anatomically modern humans.

Archeological and written sources attest that by 1000 B.C, residents of northern Ethiopia had started actively cultivating crops and practiced pastoralism as well as pottery.

The 2,500 year old stone temple at Yeha is undoubtedly the most important legacy of this urbanized agricultural society, which is referred to as the pre-Axumite civilization.

Discoveries of Egyptian and other foreign artifacts as well as distinctive Greek influences in crafts such as pottery, suggest that pre-Axumite Ethiopia traded and was in contact with other classical civilizations.

There has been much contemplation and research on the subject of what race started the infamous Axumite civilization, the legacy of which is still visible to this day on the stelae fields in Tigrai where massive monolithic obelisks, some still standing and some broken to pieces, are strewn amongst ruined castles and royal tombs. It was originally believed that the Axumites were descendants of Southern Arabian settlers who brought

17

the craft of masonry with them to Africa, but recently, more and more scholars are of the opinion that the great trading empire which, at its peak, stretched all the way from the Arabian peninsula to present day Somali Land or Punt Land, was wholly an indigenous African initiative.

Following the gradual decline of this vast empire in the 10th century AD, believed to be brought about through being isolated in their Christian faith in an area of increasing Muslim influence, the city of Axum continued to be the place where kings went to be crowned but the capital soon moved south towards the highlands where the Zagwe dynasty established their capital, Roha, now known as Lalibela in honor of the king of the same name who was responsible for the monumental task of erecting the 11 rock-hewn churches which are the best ancient architectural treasures of Ethiopia. The Zagwe rule was followed by the Solomonic dynasty which took root during the 13th century when Emperor Yekuno Amlak took the throne.

The famous medieval castles of Gondar are living testaments to the greatness of the leaders who claimed that they descended from King Solomon himself through his son Menelik which he fathered on the Queen of Sheba. Legend has it that this progeny, Menelik, brought back the Ark of the Covenant along with the first born sons of the members of the King’s court as well as a thousand people from each of the twelve tribes of Israel. Many Ethiopians (and even some foreigners) believe that the Ark still resides in the church of Tsion in Tigrai, where it is guarded by a single priest, the only person allowed to see it. The book entitled “The Sign and The Seal” by John Graham is an interesting read which reveals much about the lore surrounding the Ark. During the time between the 13th and 15th centuries, the Solomonic Kingdom faced its worst threat to its sovereignty in the form of an encroaching Muslim presence throughout the empire. Feeling the need to secure their religion and power base (which were really one and the same) as well as their access to sea trade routes, the Christians launched an attack on the Muslims of Adal in around 1290. Their consequent expansion southwards in the 14th century bought the Christians some time but the Muslim faith had already permeated key areas of Afar and Somalia whence the famous Somali leader Ahmed Gragn, raised a powerful host to take the eastern highland city of Harar in 1528.

From this strategic base, Gragn led annual raids to the heart of the Christian kingdom, cleverly planning his assaults to take advantage of lent fast which precedes Easter when his Orthodox Christian enemies were at their weakest. Thanks to his visionary leadership, the Muslims were victorious having captured the regions of Showa, Amhara, Lasta and even the some of the northernmost province of Tigrai by 1535 and the Christian Solomonic Kingdom was all but shattered as were many historical buildings, relics and records. Emperor LibneDingel, who was the emperor at the time, was pursued across his own kingdom to eventually die in hiding in 1540 but not before he made one last plea in a letter to Ethiopia’s first European connection, Portugal, to help save his broken kingdom from the Muslim invaders.

The Portuguese arrived in 1543 and bolstered the army of Emperor Galawdewos who led his combined forces to Lake Tana in the Amhara region where he killed Gragn

18

and defeated his army on February 21st, 1543. But his efforts at rebuilding the empire were plagued by raids led by Ahmed Gragn’s wife and nephew who eventually killed Galawdeos and displayed his decapitated head on the gates of Harar in 1559.

Amidst these years of fighting that drained much of the land’s resources, a new ethnic group, the pagan Oromo, was slowly but surely making its way from the Rift Valley into the very heart of Ethiopia, capturing new lands that previously belonged to the fighting religious factions which were incapable of defending their lands after having exhausted their strength in fighting each other. The Oromo managed to settle lands all the way from Jimma in the west to Harar in the east, extending their territory even to the central highlands of Shoa and beyond.

The period of time between 1769 and 1855 is collectively known to Ethiopians as the “Zemene Mesafint” (Age of Warlords). It was a time when powerful regional lords fought constantly to increase their lands and power. These dark ages only came to an end when Kasa Hailu, a brigand and a fierce warrior, defeated the warring princes one at a time and consolidated his power throughout the land crowning himself Emperor Tewodros.

Tewodros is credited by some as being responsible for the modern unification of Ethiopia and for the introduction of many reforms which limited the power of the overbearing clergy and nobility. He dreamed of building a nation which would rival European powers but he went too far when he held some British nationals hostage and in exchange for their safe return, he demanded military support from England. The British sent a retaliating expeditionary force to punish him and in the mountains of Meqdella in the north, where the battle was going against him, he committed suicide rather than risking capture.

The reign of Tewodros was succeeded by that of Yohannes who constantly had to deal with Mahdi raiders from the west, thus weakening his hold on the throne. Between 1882 and 1888 a powerful king of Shoa province in the central highlands seized on the opportunity to build his strength while the Emperor was off fighting wars and when Yohannes was wounded in a victorious battle in March 1889, he moved to assume command of the throne and was crowned Emperor Menelik II. Menelik’s rule is regarded by some as being one of the most progressive in Ethiopia’s history. Many technological advances such as electric lighting, motor vehicles and railroads were introduced. He was also responsible for the establishment of Addis Abeba (see the Addis Abeba Section of this book) although it was just as much his initiative as it was his wife’s; a strong woman by the name of Empress Taitu, who fought and ruled side by side with the Emperor even commanding a troop of around 16,000 soldiers and an artillery battery in the Ethio-Italian war of 1896.

It was not through any lack of diplomacy on the Emperor’s part that Italian aggression focused on Ethiopia, in fact, Menelik made several concessions in a treaty signed between the two nations even going so far as to name the European nation an official representative of Ethiopian interests abroad but the Italians had other plans and in their Italian version of the document, known as the Wuchale treaty, declared that Ethiopia had opted to become a protectorate of Italy.

19

Tensions soon rose and all-out war was inevitable. Menelik decreed in a heartfelt letter to his people that all able bodied men should march north with him to defend their land and freedom. The turnout was enough to overwhelm the invading forces at Adwa, where the superiorly equipped Italian army was outwitted and routed by the brave defenders despite their lack of any significant modern military assets. The battle of Adwa which took place on March 1896 is commemorated each year in Ethiopia on March 2nd marking a decisive victory of Africans over colonial forces which allowed Ethiopia to remain a free state while Europeans were dividing the rest of the continent amongst themselves.

After the death of Menelik, his heir Lij Iyasu was overthrown in a coup led by soon to be Empress Zewditu and Ras Mekonnen who later became Emperor Haile Selassie I after the death of Zewditu in 1930. Haile Selassie is considered a reformist and enigmatic leader who made his famous appeal to the League of Nations in Geneva when Mussolini and his fascist regime invaded Ethiopia. But world powers were either unable or unwilling to help until World War II officially broke out and England considered the Italian presence in eastern Africa as a direct threat to its colonies in Kenya and Sudan.

British forces eventually expelled the fascists with the decisive help of patriotic Ethiopian forces who made it difficult for the Italians to consolidate their grip on the land during their entire 5 year occupation by employing guerilla warfare tactics against the invaders and even having tried to retake Addis Abeba on several occasions.

The long reign of Haile Selassie following his return to power was not without incident. An army rebellion led by two brothers attempted to oust the Emperor while he was abroad much like how he himself wrested power from his predecessor Lij Iyasu.

Although the rebels managed to take control of the palace, the rebellion was short lived and imperial loyalists took back the palace and hunted down all of the agitators. Students of the Addis Abeba University also rose up demanding that the feudal system, which mercilessly exploited peasants, be abolished.

By 1974, the aging Emperor had lost his once sharp wits and ignored a secret revolution in the making which was coordinated by a group of military officers who systematically crippled the government by arresting key officials and ministers of the palace starting from lowly bureaucrats and ending with those closest to power including the Emperor’s own daughter and most trusted advisers. In the end the Haile Selassie was left all alone in the palace attended only by his most loyal servant. He was arrested and most probably executed in 1975 by the Derg, the communist military junta which would come to hold Ethiopia in an iron grip for most of the following two decades.

On the 28th of May, 1991, the combined forces of the Ethiopian People’s Revolutionary Democratic Front (EPRDF) toppled the Derg regime and took over the country after a long and brutal war. The official system of governance was changed to revolutionary democracy and has remained so ever since. The country has for the most part enjoyed a rapid and unprecedented growth in the past 23 years of EPRDF rule and has mostly been entirely at peace except for a short yet detrimental war with its neighbor Eritrea, which chose to secede from Ethiopia shortly after the fall of the Derg.

20

Ancient Christian Art, Treasures and Calligraphy

20

Painting

21

Calligraphy and Manuscripts 24 Crosses

26

Ancient Christian Art, Treasures and Calligraphy

Ancient Christian Art, Treasures and Calligraphy The history of Ethiopian art is undeniably interlinked with the country’s religious and political development. Like most things Ethiopian, the art of Ethiopia is a living, breathing entity with its own non-conforming, unique styles and mysterious origins.

To fully understand the roots and nuances of early Ethiopian artwork, which is mostly dominated by religious themes, one must realize that the country and its early inhabitants are not “Africans” in the typical sense of the term, but a fusion of Southern Arabian Semitic settlers and indigenous communities, which over the centuries merged to form a people with a distinctive complexion, culture and language.These descendants of the earliest settlers have always ruled the country and it is they who gave Ethiopia her system of government and civilization, bringing about the harmonious integration of different races and winning a venerated position for Ethiopia in the history of the world.

The first ever Ethiopian civilization of Axum was initially thought to have been founded by Southern Arabian settlers who penetrated inland from the port of Adulis (now Zula). Monuments (such as the stone temple at Yeha) dating from the fifth century B.C were believed to mark the road that was followed to reach Axum, a site renowned across the world for its gigantic stone stelae marked with rich and intricate carvings erected at the beginning of our era. But in recent times more and more scholars are abandoning this theory and proclaiming that an indigenous Afro-Semitic people were responsible for starting the civilization which was in contact and trading with other great civilizations of antiquity such as the Roman Empire, Egypt and Persia.

Although this early Semitic civilization left its mark on the Ethiopian character, it is the fact that Ethiopia is the first Christian country among black African nations that ensures her a special place in history. Ever since the conversion of King Ezana in 350 AD by the Syrian Frumentius (Known locally as Aba Selama), the Christian faith has had a profound impact on the tradition, politics and above all the art of the land. Ezana’s tombstone is inscribed with the word Christ and coinage from the time bears the image of the Christian cross, the first in the world to do so.

The Ethiopian Christian Kingdom flourished most notably from the 14th to the early 16th century AD, a period collectively known by historians as the Solomonic dynasty, owing to the legend of The Queen of Sheba who allegedly bore a son to the wise King Solomon of Israel. (see Overview of Ethiopian History)

22

Ancient Christian Art, Treasures and Calligraphy

Painting New monastic centers were established in central parts of Ethiopia and prominent churches were also established in newly conquered areas after the 14th century. This development apparently facilitated the growth of Christian literature, calligraphy as well as iconography. The first aspect of painting that flourished in this period was miniature painting. The origin of miniature painting was closely associated with monastic scribes and scriptoria of northern and central Ethiopia. Miniatures of the period were characterized by the use of line and geometric shapes excessively. Human figures that are outlined with vigorous lines are common features of the paintings. Because of the extensive use of line and geometric forms, miniature painting of the time is called the Geometric Style.

Towards the middle of the 14th century painters began to use a new medium for visual expression. It was at this time that wooden panels began to appear. Panel paintings of the period show a marked difference from miniature paintings in that geometric shapes are not used as decorative patterns to fill empty/negative spaces or to decorate costume.

The art of painting witnessed a drastic change and development during the 15th century. Particularly from the reign of King Dawit (1382-1413) onwards, there were improvements in many aspects of the art. King Dawit established a scriptorium in his court. This action of the king facilitated the growth of painting by increasing the level of patronage. Royal patronage helped painters to access better materials, particularly colors.

Through time individuals who specialized in painting and who possessed professional skill were able to emerge. Royal patronage continued to increase during the reign of King Zara Ya’eqob (1436-68). The king organized a royal workshop where a group of professional painters produced panel paintings and illuminated manuscripts.

Mural Wall Painting in Cheleqot Holy Trinity Church, Tigrai

During the 15th century in general and in the reign of King Zara Ya’eqob in particular, two distinct styles of painting emerged. These styles were the Stephenite style and the moon face style. The origin of the moon face style was associated with a religious controversy on the position and importance of the Virgin Mary in the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. Taught in one of the prominent monasteries of northern Ethiopia,

23

Ancient Christian Art, Treasures and Calligraphy

Zara Ya’eqob was deeply involved in religious affairs. He was engaged in consolidating Christianity by purifying it from syncretized traditional superstitious elements. He also authored several books on the subject of Mariology. Thus he instituted the Cult of Mary. Not only this, the icons of the Virgin with Child was highly venerated and the king proclaimed that the Christian laity should bow for it.

The Stephanite style originated from the monasteries and monastic groups of northern Ethiopia. The Stephenites were distinct monastic groups in northern Ethiopia who opposed the involvement of monastic leaders and ecclesiastical authorities in politics and secular matters. In addition to this they opposed the veneration of the Virgin Mary and the Cross which became a cult in the period of King Zara Ya’eqob. In general they opposed the religious reforms and proclamations introduced and made by Zara Ya’eqob.

With regard to painting the Stephenites argued that an icon of saints and holy personalities is sacred and it should be venerated. However, they disagreed on the fact that one should not bow for any icon including the icon of the Virgin Mary. They also argued that a painting should not necessarily be beautiful and appealing to the eye. It should be a simple and hypothetical representation of any holy or saintly person or story of Christianity. Thus they adopted a technique of representation which is absolutely planar and two dimensional. Geometric forms and parallel folds of drapery and costume are the basic features of the style.

The 16th century was not generally very conducive to the growth of Christian art and culture in the land, but as is common with war, it rather destroyed several wonders that the Christian artisans established. The most destructive element came in the form of an invasion of Muslims from Somalia led by Ahmed Gragn (the left- handed one) who declared a Jihad or religious war on the Christian kingdoms and organized annual raids from his base in Harar to coincide with lent, ravaging much of the Ethiopian highlands while the defenders were at their weakest, pillaging and razing Christian sanctuaries, churches and monasteries which, unfortunately, also served as centers for art and education. Although the war was brief and ended favorably for the Christians,

24

Ancient Christian Art, Treasures and Calligraphy Abune Yemata Church Painting

the damage it caused was exceptional and many priceless artifacts, buildings and monuments were forever lost.

Luckily, the magnificent monolithic churches that are one of the most visited and celebrated attractions in the country still stand against the test of time, guarding ancient treasures and feats of true African creativity. The best known of these are the group of sanctuaries at Lalibela, but throughout Ethiopia there are dozens of these temples cut out of the rock, hollowed out to look like monuments built above ground, and possessing all the basic elements of architecture - columns with capitals, barrel vaults or coffered ceilings, friezes, carved windows and cupolas sheltering the altar.

There is curiosity over the scarcity of sculptural works in the country since there is evidence that Ethiopians were not at all incapable of wood or stone carving. The decorations on the facade of “Enda-Tsadkan-Ze-Barkanaha” church and the two galloping horsemen at the entrance to “Bet Mariam” at Lalibela as well as the series of portraits of monastic saints placed along the walls of the church of “Golgota” ,which are divided one from another by arches which bring them into relief, are good examples of early Ethiopian sculptures whose abstract and geometric designs closely recall the famous Coptic and Islamic woodwork to be seen in the museums of Cairo yet they rarely favored the representation in full or low relief of men or animals which is a mark of moving away from earlier periods famous for producing amazingly lifelike carved representations of living creatures.

Early Ethiopian painting mainly revolved around figurative iconography based on the Gospels as evidenced by the images depicting famous biblical scenes and events such as the “Visitation” with Mary and Elizabeth embracing one another and the “Annunciation to Zacharias” as well as the supper in the house of Simon where Christ and Mary Magdalene are seated near a round table in the interior walls of “Bet Mariam” (House of Mary) at Lalibela. But there also exist paintings which are relatively original in nature such as the mural decoration at the monolithic church of “Bilbila Cherkos” in the Amhara region which depicts a series of men with haloes, shown standing absolutely full-face and arranged on either side of a decorated band which divides them and the unique circular ceremonial fan at the rock hewn church of “Debre Tsion” in Gheralta,

25

Ancient Christian Art, Treasures and Calligraphy

Tigrai which is a folded parchment with a diameter of about one meter upon which are painted 36 images of saints and angels is a 500 year old masterpiece which is relatively in very good condition.

According to the teaching of the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahido Church, images are useful.

Some of the most treasured and historical paintings in possession of the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahido Church which serve as a reference and origin for all subsequent paintings are the holy portraits of Our Lady St. Mary painted by St. Luke. Four of these portraits were known to reside in the Gojam diocese but one was lost when the church of Jebela was destroyed by fire and another, named Sergut (the adorned one), deteriorated when monks hid it in a cave for fear of thieves not suspecting that the dampness of the cave would ruin it. The other two, namely, Waynut and Manker Hayla, still reside in Gojam in Debre Worq and Washera monasteries respectively but more needs to be done in protecting these sacred, priceless treasures to preserve them for coming generations.

Calligraphy and Manuscripts Early epigraphic monuments and the survival of Semitic personal and place names on Ethiopian territory attest to the gradual expansion of the Arabian enclaves toward the south and the west. While these settlements remained thoroughly Southern Arabian in outlook and culture for quite some time, a synthesis of African and South Arabian elements began eventually to develop into an Ethiopian culture.

One of the most lasting and influential cultural contributions of Southern Arabia to Africa is believed to be its language and alphabet since a comparison of the old South Arabian languages’ alphabet with the language and script of the Classic Ethiopian Geez (also known as Ethiopic) furnishes ample evidence of this fact. It should be mentioned, however, that the Ethiopian and Eritrean Orthodox Churches hold the belief that the original consonantal form of the script was divinely revealed to Henos “as an instrument to codify the laws” and the present system of vocalization is attributed to Frumentius (Abba Salama).

Geez is the foundation for several local Semitic languages including Amharic (much like Latin was a basis for Italian) and 4 thousand years after its origination it is still widely spoken amongst the clergy and the faithful to this day.

Early inscriptions and coins found in Ethiopia demonstrate that in the beginning Geez was written without vowels like the South Arabian languages and indeed almost all the other Semitic languages. However, even in the early Axumite period the Ethiopians began attaching vowels to the consonantal forms and thus initiated Geez’s development into a syllabic script.

Through the ages, Ethiopian calligraphy evolved from being primarily elaborate and aesthetically pleasing towards being more practical and less ornate. Marginal reading

26

Ancient Christian Art, Treasures and Calligraphy

signs and separators which were characteristic of earlier periods gradually decline in quality before finally disappearing. These decorations were replaced by a particular type of illumination made of bands of colored lines interlaced in a geometric pattern and used to frame the pages of Ethiopian manuscripts called “Harag”s (Geez word meaning the tendril of a climbing plant). The monastery of Gunda Gundo, a center of the dissident Stephenite movement during the 15th century, was the source of the most refined “Harag” of the time.

When Yekuno Amlak overthrew the reigning Zagwe dynasty and established the Solomonic dynasty, claiming lineage from King Solomon himself via Menelik in 1270, he justified his overthrow of his predecessors by casting aspersions upon the orthodoxy of the Zagwe rulers. In the process, rulers of this new dynasty embarked on a cultural revolution and when new translations were prepared of central religious texts, many of the records of the past were lost.

The fortunes of Debre Hayq Estifanos in Amhara rose immediately with the rise of the new dynasty. Emperor Yekuno Amlak endowed the monastery with great wealth and its reputation as a center for learning was maintained throughout the 16th century and the scriptorium produced some of the finest illuminated manuscripts of the late 13th and 14th centuries.

The monastery of Debre Asbo in Shoa, founded by Teklehaimanot in 1284, started to rival Debre Hayq Estifanos after 1445 when it was endowed by the Emperor Zara Ya’eqob and renamed Debre Libanos. By the end of the century, its abbots had assumed a significant role as patrons of the arts, most notably Marha Krestos, who built a church of Our Lady Mary at his monastery and had it decorated with murals of Mary and portraits of the prophets. But in 1532, the monastery was looted and its church and library destroyed by Ahmed Gragn, yet the “Ritual for Passion Week” (“Himamat” in Amharic) survived the destruction and now resides in the British library.

Some of the oldest and most interesting manuscripts and parchments are to be found in the rock hewn churches of Tigrai region. It is here that the Gospels of Abune Garima, who is credited as being the founding father of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, were discovered in 1950. Originally a well to do nobleman of Constantinople by the name of Yeshaq, he abandoned his governorate and travelled to Egypt and Jerusalem before coming to Ethiopia in 494 AD at the behest of his friend Abba Pentalewon. The Abune Garima Gospels, which are said to date back to the 6th – 7th century, are astounding in their detail and illumination. Having been restored by the British manuscript restorer Lester Capon in 2006, the manuscripts are housed at the Saint Abune Garima Monastery in northern Tigrai.

Lake Tana harbored no significant monastic population until the end of the second half of the 14th century. The islands were covered in trees and provided ideal sites for individual hermits or entire monastic communities; however, the local population remained hostile to Christianization until the early 15th century. Debre Tana Qirqos was the first monastic community to be established here after 1250. During the reign of Amde Tsion (1314-1344), it received imperial favors and became a center for monastic expansion and learning.

27

Ancient Christian Art, Treasures and Calligraphy

Crosses The Ethiopian Christian Orthodox Tewahido Church and its followers hold the cross in the highest regard above all other symbols. Ample evidence of this is provided in the fact that the faithful adorn everything from their day to day utensils and clothing to walls and books with the sacred image of the cross, even tattooing their foreheads, necks and hands with crosses.

Many scholars and researchers have proclaimed that no other single nation in the Christian world comes even close to having produced so many different types of crosses as Ethiopia. The crosses of Ethiopia vary in shape, size and type as well as in purpose.

The Orthodox Church uses several large ceremonial and monastic crosses, which we will describe in the coming paragraphs, but a myriad of smaller crosses such as the chest cross, the neck cross and the scapular cross also exist which the devout use to ward off evil and preserve their faith.

Crosses can be made out of gold, silver, bronze, brass, iron, leather, marble or wood but are most accurately classified according to their purpose. For example the Incensory cross is carried by a priest in one hand while censoring with the other at sacramental services while the hand or blessing cross is the symbol of priesthood that every ordained priest must have in order to bless believers at any place or time. The Ridge cross is placed at the top of every church to symbolize that Christ is the head of the church and the Snake cross, topped by two snakes to recall the brazen snakes which healed the Hebrews from snake bites, is carried by the Patriarch to symbolize the autocephalous nature of the Church.

The Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahido Church has, in recent years, been very active in protecting its relics from damage or theft by supporting the building of museums at all churches and monasteries which possess ancient artifacts as well as by issuing regulations for the protection and registration of the holy treasures of the Church.

Previously, in the absence of a heritage policy, thefts of relics were not even investigated as in the theft of the very precious Newa Begu (here is the lamb) cross in 1970, which was sold abroad and only recovered in 2000 because the foreign collector who bought it decided to give it back to the Church of Dima when informed of its true origin. Through adequate preservation, promotion and management of ancient Christian relics, it is possible to create awareness of the Ethiopian people’s history and make the experience of tourists gratifying.

28

Ethiopian Architecture

Architecture of Ethiopia The architecture of Ethiopia is perhaps the most captivating [man-made] attraction which visitors can appreciate. Rock hewn churches, looming stone castles which mimic the natural fortresses of the Ethiopian highlands, wicker tents and homely “tukuls” (huts) are just some of the spectacular and varied architectural spectacles that one can see throughout the land.

Some of the high-rise buildings that are peeping up against Addis Abeba’s skyline draw inspiration from these traditional buildings of the past and added to the fact that these at times crude and at others inimitably magnificent structures are one of the few surviving links through which cultural heritage is preserved, means that these treasures ought to be beheld and appreciated as true architectural feats.

The development of medieval Ethiopian architecture is mainly the influence of the spread of Christianity since almost all medieval buildings of architectural significance were churches. Initially, Ethiopian churches had a basilica form having been inspired by the great architectural designs of the Axumite as well as by Hebrew biblical tradition but as the power base of the Ethiopian empire crept southwards in the medieval period, ecclesiastical architecture underwent a radical change mimicking the round dwellings common in the south and round churches which consist of three concentric rings grew more common.

The innermost circle in a round Ethiopian church, the Holy of Holies (Meqdes or Kidiste Kidusan), is where the Ark (Tabot) is kept without which a Church is not sanctified and is reserved only for high priests and kings while the middle circle (Kidist) is used as a place to give the Sacrament to communicants. The outer ring (Kine Mahlet), divided into sections for men and women, is where the rest of the congregation stands, always barefoot.

Axumite Architecture

Ever since the great Axumites started erecting their granite obelisks and palaces at Axum starting in the first century AD and even before that as the Sabeans constructed the stone temple at Yeha 3000 years ago, architecture has been an essential and irrevocable part of everyday life. Ancient

30

Ethiopian Architecture

builders had direct communication with Greek and especially South Arabia as evidenced by the striking similarity of the Yeha ruins and the extensive use of the disc and crescent pagan religious symbol on monuments. Even though these connections waned after the Axumite kingdom adopted Christianity under the rule of King Ezana in 340-350 AD, the innovations which were introduced remained and evolved granting the ability to build monuments which towered up to 30 meters above ground as well as massive churches and sanctuaries deep beneath the earth.

One of the tallest of the still standing Axumite stelae was even shipped to Rome and assembled at a famous square as a symbol of Italian conquest but it has since been returned to its rightful site at Axum where it looms over its counterparts.

Starting from 1000 AD, the built-up and rock-hewn churches of the highlands, which greatly reflect the building style of Axum, emerged. Most of these great buildings are now lost, having been destroyed in the religious wars of the 16th century, but some fine examples remained sheltered from the calamity of war on top of ambas (inaccessible plateaus) such as the Enda Abune Aregawi monastery on top of the amba of Debre Damo and the rock-hewn Debre Tsion church near Gheralta as well as in sheltered caves of which the exquisite church of Yemrehane Kristos, an architectural masterpiece in that it is built on top of a flowing river, is a fine example.

The Zagwe Dynasty Architecture

The Zagwe dynasty was the next major civilization that took root in the Ethiopian highlands and continued to build churches and monasteries in more or less the same style as that of the Axumite period. Although the churches at Lalibela (the Zagwe capital) are very unique in being rock-hewn monolithic churches at times carved out of a single rock rather than built-up churches or cave churches reinforced by masonry as those in the Tigrai region are, they nevertheless imitated these built-up churches in their design and construction thereby maintaining the Axumite architectural legacy. The stark similarity between the Enda Abune Aregawi monastery in Debre Damo and the Ammanuel monolithic church at Lalibela furnish ample proof of this fact.

Most iconic and easily recognizable of all the churches at Lalibela is Bet Giorgis (House of St. George). This extraordinary national treasure which is the most technically advanced rock church in the area was carved into the shape of a cross out of a single rock and is a testament to the genius of early Ethiopian builders and to the greatness of their visionary leaders.

31

Ethiopian Architecture

Another amazing rock hewn church built in the Lalibela style is the church of Abune Aaron in northern Wollo which is also cut from one giant rock. What makes this church different and especially worth visiting is the fact that no rain seems to enter into it which is pretty impressive (even miraculous according to some) considering the fact that the church lacks a roof!

The Solomonic Dynasty (Gondarine) Architecture

After the fall of the Zagwe dynasty, the seat of power of the Ethiopian kings eventually moved to Gondar and the medieval castles of the celebrated king Fasiladas were erected. These structures, with their battlements and rounded towers, were constructed in a style which somewhat resembles gothic European or Islamic architecture but in fact, the extent of foreign influence in their construction is believed to be negligible since closer inspection reveals that the similarities are purely coincidental. For example the square battlements used in Europe are intended to provide cover for defenders while the curved Gondar battlements aren’t made for defensive purposes but mostly for decoration and visual expression of power.

Inventive and striking architecture is not only restricted to the building of monuments and churches but is also a common feature of traditional Ethiopian dwellings which vary immensely from one region and ethnicity to another. Houses in the north of Ethiopia follow closely the construction method employed in monument and church building in that they employ masonry and are usually circular with the centermost part being reserved for esteemed guests and celebrations much like how the “Mekdes” or Holy of Holies in churches is reserved for the sacred “Tabot” representing the Ark of the Covenant.

The Axum Houses

In Tigrai, traditional houses are mostly “Hidmo”s. Built on a rectangular plan, the Hidmo house is constructed with dry-stone walls topped with a thick, earthen roof, supported both inside and out with strong wooden pillars. However, the traditional Axumite houses are round two-story houses with flat roofs of wood covered with grass and wide overhanging roof space.

The upper storey contains a single room and can be entered directly, by means of exterior stairs. Sometimes there are added towers and grain stores. The ceiling of the upper story is decorated in a special way which (in Tigrinya language) is called ch’imch’ema ”decoration

32

Ethiopian Architecture

with cloth”. The ceiling is a kind of wicker work or basket of reeds which may be painted but in the typical case are wound with textiles, e.g. silk rags in various bright colors.

The Lasta traditional house is similar with the Axum houses. It is also a round two storey stone house with conical thatch roof and exterior stairs to the upper floor, which gives a special character to the older part of Lalibela village.

Eastern houses Harar

The other dominant religion in Ethiopia, Islam, also had a profound impact on vernacular architecture although it was restricted for the most part to Harar, which was initially settled by a colony from Hadramaut in South Arabia during the 8th - 9th century AD. Although the Christian king Amde Tsion conquered it for a short period during his reign which lasted from 1314 to 1344, it eventually became the capital of the Sultanate of Adal under the powerful leader Ahmed Gragn whose nephew and successor Emir Nur Ibn Mujahid built the iconic walls and ramparts which surround the city in the 16th century.

Notable historical buildings in Harar which reflect the distinctive heritage of Islamic architecture include the century old Mosques Al-Djami Mosque and Umikoda plus personal residences such as the much visited Rimbaud museum named for its famous former resident French poet Arthur Rimbaud who visited the city during the Egyptian occupation of the city during 18751885 and remained there until his death in 1891.

Afar (Danakil)

The Afar people are Eastern Hamites who speak a Nilo-Hamitic language and live in a roughly triangular area of the Danakil desert between the high Ethiopian escarpment and the shore of the Red Sea. There about 250,000 Afars living in what is one of the most inhospitable areas on earth, for the most part consisting of dry rocky land, much of it below sea level. There is no rain for nine months of the year and temperatures can reach 50 degree C (122oF) in the sun.

The Afars are Muslims and while they have been integrated within an overtly Muslim set of religious attitudes many of their rules pre-date the arrival of Islam. The people who inhabit this region were known by the Arabs as ‘Danakil’, but their own name for themselves is ‘Afar’. The Afars are organized in clans and subsections of clans which trace their descent through the male line from a common ancestor.

33

Ethiopian Architecture

The camp of an Afar homestead is chiefly the women’s province. They keep it clean, look after the sheep, goats and milking cows, take care of the children and build the mat tents in which the Afar live. The tents are always owned by the women who also make and pitch them. An Afar woman’s dowry includes the tent, the bed, and other tent furnishings. It is the men’s job to build enclosures for the animals and to do any job that entails moving away from the camp.

The camp is in a circle with two to six tents on the outside enclosed by a thorn bush: there is a thorn bush corral for the sheep and goats at the center.

Somali

The majority of the Ethiopian Somali population are pastoral nomads who transport their homes as they move from place to place. A common misconception about nomadic houses is that they are temporary dwellings involving little planning or design.

The Somali dwelling is repeatedly reassembled and re-used. Its components are passed from one generation to the next. It is made up of various components: vertical acacia poles (udbo) which support semi-circular poles (dhigo) spanning the structure, and woven coverings (saari) which form the walls and roof of the structure. In addition, portable containers (gurgur) are used for the storage of food, water, clothing and jewelry.

Somali have extensive knowledge of the natural resource in their environment. They use local flora and fauna not only to build their houses, but also for cleaning, sterilizing, dyeing, healing and making aromatic oils, Sisal rope and string are used for weaving the kebed and haraar. Palm leaves are used for weaving mats (dermo) for sleeping, sitting, or prayer adorned with intricate geometrical designs. Twigs and reeds are employed to make partitions.

The house is domical, formed by a curved pole (qabax), supported by the tall vertical pole udbo. Once the frame of the house is ready, the saari, consisting of haraar and kebed, are tied in place on the side and tops with sisal rope. The house is completely covered with the saari, except for small areas near the ground left open to let in air and light. A protective covering of a bushy grass (yacay) acts as a ventilation outlet. The house is divided into sleeping, living and sometimes cooking section by an alool, made by weaving strips of fabric over reeds.

Southern Dwellings

The houses and other buildings to be seen as one goes further south in Ethiopia are more similar to those in the rest of Africa but are still customized to fit the needs of the people, the surroundings and building materials available. Construction methods usually involve tying, twining or weaving different plants rather than piling stones or bricks.

Houses of the Guraghe people, whose lands are relatively closer to Addis Abeba, are circular “Tukul” or huts made out of Eucalyptus wood, bamboo, thatch and rope. Guraghe houses are built communally, as is the case in many other regions of Ethiopia, and are circular huts with conical roofs. They have bamboo walls, plastered on the inside

34

Ethiopian Architecture

with a mixture of mud and grass, and washed with lime. The roofs are thatched and steep. The hut has no windows and no other openings except for the door. On one of side of the hut elevated storage places are constructed called “kot”s. Underneath this storage place cattle are tied. Guraghe houses range in size from 4 to 7 meters.

Traditional dwellings of the Dorze people, who mostly reside around Chencha and Arba Minch, utilize bamboo as their main building material and resemble an Elephant’s head in having a smaller reception area in the front of the house. Dorze houses, oval in shape and initially standing at a height of 6-12 meters are striking and innovative for one reason in particular: they are portable. If the bottom of the house is damaged by termites and dampness, it can be uprooted, shortened and relocated to a better location, allowing it to have a life span of 60 years.

The Sidama also have their own unique house constructing methods which they are well known for. The homes of the Sidama (called Sheka in the highlands) are quaint structures woven entirely out of bamboo. The interiors have two partitions called the Alido and the Holge divided by split bamboo walls (Dukko). The Alido is further divided into two sections one of which, the Bosalo, is used as a reception room. The Holge is used as a bedroom as well as working area. The date for laying the foundation of the Sidama house is dictated by local astrologers called Ayanto who observe and study the stars. Afterwards, a pillar (Helicho) is placed at the center of the house under construction. The pillar (Helicho) is very important in Sidama culture since elders are not allowed to enter and have a meal in a house without one. Examples of fine Sidama houses can be seen in Aregash Lodge in the Sidama area and in many other lodges in the country as well as in Hanafa Sidama Cultural Tourist Village.

The traditional houses of the Kembata, Wolaita, Konso and the Oromo of Arsi and Borena are made using more or less similar combinations of raw materials such as wood and especially thatched but are all diverse in size, shape and layout.

Konso houses are constructed within walled towns located on high summits or plains which are usually terraced to retain soil from flooding. The Konso Cultural Landscape has been inscribed in UNESCO’s World Heritage list in 2011 due to its unique architectural features and long history of more than 400 years. Stone walled towns of the Konso (Paletas) always have one or more buildings which serve as cultural centers called “Mora”s which are usually located in the heart of the town. Paths from all the gates of the walled town lead to this “Mora” s where it is customary for men and boys to sleep, making it easy for them to quickly organize a defense of the town in case of an emergency. “Mora”s have huge double tiered thatched roofs but no walls and are also used for important social gatherings and recreational purposes.

35

Ethiopian Architecture

The Agnuak who speak of themselves as the ‘bead people’ are very fond of ornamentation. Their houses are all carefully designed and richly decorated. The mud walls of the elegantly proportioned tukuls have finger-drawn designs depicting animals and magic symbols.

A conical roof, constructed on frames of six rings of bound reeds, rests on 1.5 meter high upright posts. The circular plan has a floor of polished compacted mud, with a raised level around it for flood prevention. Doors are extremely low and people have to kneel down to enter into these well-ventilated dwellings. The mud walls are plastered only up to cave level to allow proper cross-ventilation. Nevertheless, river reeds and woven palm leaves can be found being used as wall covers and on rare occasions widely spaced uptight pass will be left open, to be covered solely by a straw roof extending almost to floor level.

Compounds are often screened from the public path by a straw fence, however, the sides of the homestead facing the garden will be left open and members of the family approach their home from this side.

A granary for sorghum and for maize is included in the open and clean compound. The Agnuak place their hearth under one of these granaries. Villages have spacious and attractive, clean common yards where pounding of grain, brewing of liquor, and smoking of heady aromatic tobacco in long pipes, take place. Music is a part of village life with beating of drums, dancing and chanting.

Addis Abeba

Addis Abeba too is not without its own architectural marvels. It is easy to see how the first traditional and mostly circular buildings on the Entoto hills, of which only two

churches remain today, evolved into more practical rectangular shapes as the seat of power moved down to Addis. Wood was very hard to come by in those days, so much so that Emperor Menelik II almost moved the capital to Addis Alem a few Kilometers west but later abandoned the idea having been swayed by his wife Empress Taitu and some foreign diplomats to give the “new flower” a chance to blossom.

The first building of burnt bricks was first built at Addis in 1898, after the victory at Adwa over Italian forces, up to which point even the name of Ethiopia’s capital, whose

36

Ethiopian Architecture

only buildings were the Emperor’s royal palace compound and three churches, was largely unknown in the western world. After this significant point in time, Emperor Menelik focused his efforts at growing Addis Abeba into a full-fledged capital complete with all the necessary buildings required to be a proper administrative center for the entire country.

Following the partial completion of the railroad track linking the country to Djibouti in around 1904, corrugated iron roofing made its way to the tops of houses all over the city replacing the traditional thatch roofs which soon went out of style. Closely thereafter, the first modern buildings including a bank, a hotel and a school were put up.

The brief Italian occupation in the 1930’s left many colonial style buildings in its wake. The buildings which the Italians built in the areas of Kasanchis (Casa I.N.C.I.S), Atkilt Tera and Piazza are mostly intact and should be visited to get a feel of what the city looked like in those days.

Starting from 1960 onwards, recruiting foreign architects in large construction projects was widely adopted, the most notable of these was Arturo Mezzedimi who designed and oversaw the construction of some of the best and most prominent buildings in Addis such as the Africa Hall (now the Economic Center for Africa, ECA) and the municipality building at the top of Churchill Avenue. Distinguished architect Henry Chomette also played a role in designing and erecting impressive buildings like the Organization for African Unity (OAU) building, the Commercial Bank of Ethiopia building and the National Theatre.

The architecture of Ethiopia is a perfect example of how tradition and innovation can go hand in hand and should be seen as one along with the people, culture and environment which shaped it. The advantage of building lasting and useful structures that can remain unharmed long after those who built them have passed is a grand notion appreciated by all Ethiopians thanks to past generations whose visions still live on in the grandeur of their monuments.

37

Ethiopian Economy

THE ETHIOPIAN ECONOMY THEN AND NOW A Brief History of Trade and Business in Ethiopia from Ancient to Modern Times The Maria Theresa Thaler, or Dollar

The late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries witnessed the arrival in Ethiopia of an Austrian coin: the Maria Theresa thaler, or dollar. This remarkable silver coin, which was called after Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, and was minted in Vienna, gained an extensive circulation throughout the Middle East, including Ethiopia. Its coming helped to equalize the disequilibrium between Ethiopian exports, which were substantially greater than the country’s imports.

Queen Maria Theresa died in 1780, and all Maria Theresa thalers minted thereafter bore that date.

The thaler also constituted a valuable source of silver, for it was melted down for the manufacture of jewelry, as well as that of crosses and other ecclesiastical objects.

The thaler was likewise used as a weight, used in the weighing of such valuable articles as gold, as well as in medicine.

Visitors to Addis Abeba wishing to see such silverware, and other Ethiopian treasures, should make their way to the Institute of Ethiopian Studies Ethnological Museum and Art Gallery, situated in the main University campus, at Sidist Kilo. The museum is open at week-ends, but closed on Mondays.

Maria Theresa coins, which, unlike salt, cloth and other articles of “primitive money”, could easily be buried, were often so buried, and thus used as a way of saving.

The Founding of Addis Abeba

Ethiopian trade and business were transformed by the founding, around 1887, by Emperor Menelik, of a new Ethiopian capital: Addis Abeba. This settlement, which was situated almost in the centre of the Ethiopian realm, became the site, in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century’s, of many important innovations.

38

Ethiopian Economy

The establishment of the city was followed, in 1892, by Menelik’s reform of the system of land taxation, and by the introduction of the Australian eucalyptus tree – which solved what had previously been an acute shortage of timber and firewood.

A National Currency

Not long afterwards, in 1894, steps were taken to issue the country’s first currency since Axumite times, as well as Ethiopia’s first postage stamps, after which the country joined the International Postal Union, in 1908.

The year 1894 also witnessed Menelik’s granting of a first concession for the construction of a railway to the Gulf of Aden port of Djibouti. Work on the project began two years later, after which the line reached the railway town of Dire Dawa in 1902, and the vicinity of Addis Abeba in 1915.

The Djibouti Railway

The coming of the railway, led as may be imagined, to a considerable expansion of trade. Commercial developments of this period included, among many other things, the advent of corrugated iron roofing, which arrived around 1902, and was soon to dominate the capital’s housing. The railway also resulted in a great expansion of coffee exports, which before long accounted for over 50 percent by value of total exports.

The first Ethiopian students to go abroad for study at Government expense left for Europe at about this time. The first batch went to Tsarist Russia and others to neutral Switzerland, though many others later went to Egypt, Lebanon, France and elsewhere.

The construction of the first modern roads, from Addis Abeba to Addis Alem and from Harar to Dire Dawa, the installation of the earliest Ethiopian telephone-telegraph system, and the founding of the country’s first Amharic newspaper, likewise date from the first half decade of the twentieth century.

The Bank of Abyssinia

No less important was the establishment, in 1905, of Ethiopia’s first bank, the Bank of Abyssinia, which ten years later began issuing paper money – today a collectors’ item almost impossible to find!

Modernization also witnessed the naming of Menelik’s first Cabinet, the founding of the first Ethiopian Government hotel, the Etege Taitu Hotel, and the coming of the first two motor cars, all in 1907; the establishment of the country’s first modern school, the Menelik School, in 1908; the capital’s first hospital, the Menelik Hospital, in 1910; and Ethiopia’s first state printing press, in 1911.

39

Ethiopian Economy

Pre-War Development

Such modernization, which, it goes without saying, had a profound influence on Ethiopia’s trade and business, was continued after Menelik’s death in 1913.

Most of these developments took place during the reign of Empress Zewditu, and the Regency of Ras Teferi Makonnen (the future Emperor Haile Sellassie), as well as the latter’s subsequent reign as Emperor.

This period witnessed the general expansion of roads, schools, and hospitals, as well as the coming to Addis Abeba of the first airplane, in 1929; and the establishment of first Ethiopian radio in 1933. One of the first ‘planes, christened Tsehai after the Emperor’s daughter of that name, is currently in Italy, it is hoped awaiting repatriation. A new currency was also inaugurated around this time.

The Fascist Invasion – and Liberation

The Italian Fascist invasion, of 3 October 1935, which lies outside the scope of this article, was followed by the country’s Liberation in 1941.

The ensuing period witnessed many important developments of profound importance to trade. These included the establishment of Ethiopian Airlines, the country’s first domestic airline, several factories, and insurance corporations, the enactment of the country’s first commercial code and other codes, besides a great expansion of roads, telephone and telegraph services, schools, hospitals, etc.

There was also a great expansion of banking, including the founding of Addis Abeba Bank, the country’s first private bank; the inauguration of a new, and more widely accepted, national currency, and the final withdrawal of the Maria Theresa thaler.

ECA and OAU

This period likewise witnessed Ethiopia’s increasing involvement in the African continent, with the establishment in Addis Abeba of the headquarters of the Economic Commission for Africa (ECA) in 1958, and the Organisation of African Unity (OAU), in 1963. Both landmarks the emergence of independent Africa!

Current Trade Situations in Ethiopia The Economy and Its Growth Enormous efforts have been implemented in major key sectors to achieve Millennium Development Goals (MDGs). As the result, Ethiopian economy witnessed sustainable double digit broad based growth. In 2010/11, real GDP growth was 11.4 percent moderately higher than the year earlier and 9.7% in 2012/13.

Ethiopia’s economy is based on agriculture, which accounts, in 2012/13, for about 42.9% of the gross domestic product (GDP), 90% of foreign currency earnings, and 85% of employment. Generally, the overall economic growth of the country has been highly associated with the performance of the agriculture sector.

40

Ethiopian Economy

Coffee is critical to the Ethiopian economy. It earned US$ 841.8 million in exports in 2010/11. Other important export products include gold, oil seeds, chat, flowers, live animals, pulses, leather and leather products, meat and meat products, fruits and vegetables.

The industrial sector, which mainly comprises small and medium enterprises accounts for about 13% of GDP. Similarly, the service sector comprised of social services, trade, hotels and restaurants, finance, real estate, transport and communication accounts for about 46.1 percent of GDP. The growth of GDP in the past years places Ethiopia among the top performing economies in Sub-Saharan Africa despite world economic meltdown and global financial crisis. All sectors contributed to this relatively high economic growth. Accordingly, agriculture, industry and services grew by an annual average of 9.15% and 12.5% respectively during the 2010/11 period.

In 2012, Ethiopia was the 12th fastest growing economy in the world, managing to grow faster than other African countries such as Rwanda, Mozambique, Zambia, and Ghana, as well as China and India (World Bank, 2013).

In an effort to combat inflation, the government pursued a tight monetary policy which, in the context of a slowdown in global commodity prices, resulted in annual consumer price inflation of 7.9% in November 2013, compared to 39.2% and 15.6% in November 2011 and 2012, respectively.

Between 2011/12, merchandise exports totaled USD 3.1 billion, while the value of imports, mainly from Europe and Asia, increased to USD 11.5 billion in 2012/13.

Nevertheless, the overall balance of payments deficit in 2012/13 decreased significantly, down by 88% compared to the previous year, as a result of the surplus in the non-factor services trade, huge private transfers and the surplus in the capital account (African Economic Outlook, 2014).

Trade and Investment 1. Trade Policies and Strategies • In order to enhance the export sector, the Government has established the Ethiopian Commodity Exchange (ECX). ECX is a marketplace where buyers and sellers come together to trade, assured of quality, delivery and payment. ECX assures all commodity market players the security they need in the market through providing a secure and reliable end-to-end system for handling, grading, and storing commodities, matching offers and bids for commodity transactions, and a risk-free payment and goods delivery system to settle transactions, while serving all fairly and efficiently.

41

Ethiopian Economy

• It is an undeniable fact that Ethiopia has made a considerable progress in economic and social development since 1992 as a result of the implementation of favorable policies and strategies that are instrumental in improving the national economy. The Rural Development Policy and Strategy, the Industrial Development Strategy, and other sectoral policies and strategies have initiated a new push towards creating frameworks conducive to economic and social development.

• The Rural Development Policy and Strategy , which is under implementation in the country, underlines that agriculture- centered development will bring about fast economic growth, enable its people become beneficiary of economic growth, and lay solid foundation for industrial development.

• The industrial Development Strategy focuses on manufacturing exportable items with priority given to textile and garments, leather and leather products, agro- processing and small and micro-enterprises. The Government of Ethiopia in recognition of the role of the private sector in the economy has revised over four times the investment Code over the last twenty one years (1992-2013) to make it more transparent, attractive and competitive. Major positive changes regarding foreign investments have been introduced through Investment Proclamation No.769/2012.

• As a result of the implementation of the above mentioned policies and strategies, agricultural and industrial production, investment and export trade are growing steadily from year to year, both in terms of variety and volume. Export earnings from gold (187.6 percent), fruits and vegetables (160.3 percent), live animals (72.3 percent), chat (51 percent), pulses (43.4 percent), coffee (40.6 percent), flower (30.2 percent), meat (27.8 percent, oil seeds (0.7 percent) and other (23.2 percent) have increased in 2009/10. The World Bank has also witnessed the double-digit economic growth registered in the last several years. This achievement is the highest among the non-oil producing economies of Africa.

2. Areas Of Investment Opportunities Major area of investment opportunities with incentive packages and high rate of return identified by the Ethiopian government are: - Leather Shoes and Leather Products - Textile and Garments Tesco PLC and the British arm of Wal-Mart Stores Inc. are also buying clothing from Ethiopian manufacturing plants.

- Horticulture: Fruits and vegetables, Flowers, Herbs and Spices - Industry Zone Development

42

Ethiopian Economy

43

Ethiopian Economy

Key Reasons for Investing • Ethiopia has drafted a new Special Economic Zones (SEZs) law based on international best practices which will guide the governance, development and operation of SEZs. • Access to land at concessionary lease rates.

• The government will assume the infrastructure costs of the SEZ development, including off-site infrastructure.

• Fiscal incentives include exemptions from customs duties on construction machinery, equipment and building materials required for zone development, as well as production machinery and equipment. Income tax exemption is also available for developers and resident firms based on international best practices.

Other Areas Of Investment Manufacturing • Agro-processing industry • Sugar & related industry • Chemical industry • Pharmaceuticals industry • Metal & engineering industry • Ceramic products • Electronics & electrical product Agriculture • Cotton plantation • Palm tree plantation • Rubber tree plantation • Tea & coffee plantation Services • Grade one construction contracting • Information & communications technology • Four- and above star designated hotels, motels, lodges & restaurants • Specialized hospitals • Technical & vocational training centers • Power generation

3. Incentives, Taxation, and Other Procedures Incentives Ethiopia offers a comprehensive set of fiscal and non-fiscal incentives to encourage investment into priority areas, including: • Customs duty exemptions of up to 100% on imports of capital goods for eligible areas of investment; • Income tax exemptions for a period ranging between 1 and 9 years, depending on the specific activity and the location of the investor;

44

Ethiopian Economy

• Loss carry forward for business that suffer losses during the income tax exemption period for half of the tax exemption period; • With the exception of a few products, no export tax is levied on Ethiopian export products; • Duty Drawback Scheme, Voucher Scheme and Bonded Factory and Manufacturing Warehouse Schemes; • Various non-fiscal incentives for exporters; • Guaranteed remittance of capital for foreign investors.

Taxation The Ethiopian tax system comprises direct and indirect taxes. Direct taxes include personal income tax, rental tax, withholding tax, and corporation tax, among others. The main types of indirect taxes are VAT, customs duty, excise and turn over taxes. Main taxes are summarized below.

Main Taxes in Ethiopia: Type of Taxes

Rate

Corporate Income Tax

30%

Turn Over Tax

2% and 10%

Excise Tax

10% up to 100%

Customs Duties

0% up to 35%

Income Tax from Employment

0% up to 35%

Withholding Tax 2% Value Added Tax (VAT)

15%

Export Tax

Nil (with exception of hides and skins)

Royalty Tax 5% Dividend Tax 10% Land Allocation In Ethiopia, land is a public property. Individuals, companies and other organizations have only use right of land. There are two broad classifications of land for rent or lease purposes: rural land and urban land. Application for land acquisition can be made during a field visit of an investor and after taking out an investment license.

The Ethiopian Investment Commission (EIC) has the mandate to facilitate the allocation of land for FDI projects throughout the country. Urban land for other activities is available on an auction basis. The auction prices vary, depending on demand.

The lease and rental prices of urban and rural land vary according to location, type of investment and class of land. The land cannot be mortgaged or sold, but the lease or rental value of land and the fixed assets thereon may be mortgaged or transferred to a third party.

45

Ethiopian Economy

Urban land – the regional administrative units are in charge of allocating urban land for investors. Urban land is divided into land for industrial use and land for other activities. Industrial land is given more attention by the government and a number of industrial zones with the necessary infrastructural facilities (roads, electricity, water, telephone) are established in the major cities and towns in order to support the country’s drive for rapid industrialization. Industrial land in industrial zones is allocated to investors at fixed prices. Land for export-oriented industries is generally available at concessionary rate.

Rural land - is rented mainly for agriculture. The Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development allocates farm land to foreign investors. In addition, it provides technical support for private investors investing in agriculture. The support ranges from providing information, technical support, and facilitation of other public services. Currently, there is nearly 11.55 million ha of land readily available for farming. The rental price of rural land is generally low. There is strong commitment from the government to avail the country’s fertile land for investment.

4. Starting a Business Capital Required to Startup Investment The Investment Proclamation of 2012 - the main legal framework for both foreign and domestic investment in Ethiopia - establishes the following: • The minimum capital required of a foreign investor is US$ 200,000 per project.

• If a foreign investor invests in partnership with a domestic investor(s), the minimum capital required is US$ 150,000 per project.

• The minimum entry capital required of a foreign investor investing in architectural, engineering or related technical works or consultancies, technical testing and analysis, and publishing is US$ 100,000 where the ownership is fully foreign owned. Where the investment is to be made jointly with a domestic partner(s), the minimum capital required for the foreign investor is US$ 50,000.

• A foreign investor reinvesting his profits or dividends generated from existing enterprise is not required to allocate a minimum capital An individual investor may invest as a sole proprietor, with full equity ownership, or as a joint venture. The law encourages joint ventures with Ethiopian individuals and companies.

Areas open for joint-venture investment with the Government are the manufacturing of weapons and ammunition, and telecommunications services.

Investors may set up a business organization incorporated in Ethiopia or abroad (locally registered branch companies). As per the investment law, some investment areas are exclusively reserved for the Government and domestic investors. As the first requirement, a foreign investor must obtain an investment permit by submitting a properly filled application form with the required documents to EIC.

46

Ethiopian Economy

Investment Start-Up Procedures Investment License To qualify for an investment permit, an investor is required to submit the following documents: • An investment application form signed by the investor/agent.

• Where the investment is signed by an agent, a photocopy of his power of attorney*.

• Where the investment is made by individual person, a photocopy of the page of the passport showing his identity and his recent two passport size photos.

• Where the investment is made by business organization incorporated in Ethiopia photocopies of its memorandum of association and articles of association; or where it is to be newly established, in addition, it shall submit photocopies of the pages of a valid passport of each share holder showing his identity.

• Where the investment is made by a branch of a foreign business organization, photocopies of memorandum of association or similar document of the parent company.

• Where it is a joint investment by domestic and foreign investors, in addition to the documents provided under bullet there above, photocopies of identity cards or photocopies evidencing the domestic investor’s statues, as the case may be.

• A power of attorney, in the case of submission of an application through an agent and other relevant information relating to the particulars of the project*.

• A foreign investor who intends to conclude a technology transfer agreement related to the investment will be required to submit a draft agreement together with filled application form, prepared for this purpose, to the authority for approval and registration together with the application for investment permit. * Note – the documents should pass through the Foreign Office where the investor comes from and should be authenticated by the relevant Ethiopian Embassy, before being submitted to the Ethiopian Investment Commission.

• The Ethiopian Investment Commission (EIC) approves and issues an investment permit in 4 hours time if the above documents are received in full.

Residence Permit Upon the submission of investment permit, the Main Department for Immigration and Nationality Affairs issues a residence permit to a foreign investor. A foreign investor, who is a shareholder of a company or a branch company and an expatriate staff who has a work permit, are also entitled to a residence permit.

47

Ethiopian Economy

Business License An investor is required to take out a Business License before moving to production. At this stage it is mandatory to: • Produce Investment License • Register minimum capital required to start-up investment.

• If all criteria are fulfilled a Business License is issued by the Ethiopian Investment Commission within 4 hours.

Structures of Investment Companies

Wholly owned investment – effective with full ownership of an investment by an individual.

Joint venture – in partnership with local individuals or companies. Joint ventures could also be forged with Public Enterprise that are open for privatization as well as with the Government in the manufacturing of weapons, ammunition and telecommunication services.

Business organization – private limited company, a share company established in Ethiopia or branch of a foreign company.

Where the application is to establish a Branch Office in Ethiopia, the applicant is required to submit the following documents*: • Legal certificate of incorporation in the country of origin; • Notarized document of the memorandum and article of association; • A decision stating the organization’s intent to invest in Ethiopia, together with the amount of capital allocated for the purpose; and • Power of attorney to the appointed agent in Ethiopia.

Upon receiving the fully authenticated documents listed above together with a properly filled investment application form, the investment permit and company registration certificate will be issued by EIC within 4 hours. *Note – The documents should pass through the Foreign Office where the investor comes from and should be authenticated by the relevant Ethiopian Embassy, before submitting it to the Ethiopian Investment Agency.

Clearance of a Company Name

In the case of establishing a joint venture or a Private Limited Company the company’s name must be cleared by the Ministry of Trade and Industry.

48

Ethiopian Economy

The method of verification is simple. The name of the new company will be noted to the Ministry of Trade and Industry. The relevant Department of the Ministry will process the approval of the designation of the company.

5. Guarantees and Protection • Private property is protected by the Constitution and the investment law.

• A foreign investor has the right to make remittances out of Ethiopia in convertible foreign currency at the prevailing rate of exchange.

• Ethiopia is a member of the Multilateral Investment Guarantee Agency (MIGA), a World Bank affiliate which issues guarantee against non-commercial risks in signatory countries, and of the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO).

• Ethiopia has concluded 30 bilateral investment promotion and protection agreements, of which 11 are with individual European Union Member States.

Significant other partners include China, India, South Africa, and Russia, and a number of regional economic partners (Israel, Egypt, and Sudan, among others).

• The country ranks 44 out of 189 economies for ease of enforcing commercial contracts on the World Bank’s Doing Business report (2014), placing Ethiopia within OECD levels.

6. Legal and Judicial System The constitution is the supreme law, overriding all other legislations in the country.

The legal system depends on codified laws, including civil, penal, civil procedure and penal procedure, commercial and maritime codes. All proclaimed laws are published in official gazettes (Negarit Gazeta). In administering justice, courts are directed by internationally accepted principles of justice as well as by the laws of the country. The practice of law is reserved for Ethiopians.

However, foreign nationals have the right to appear in courts as witnesses. In such cases, the foreigner is allowed to communicate through a court-appointed translator.

The Commercial Code of 1960 provides the legal framework for undertaking business activities in Ethiopia. The constitution, in accordance with Article 40, ensures the right of every citizen to the ownership of private property, including the right to acquire, use and dispose of such property. The Investment Proclamation (2002) gives foreign investors the right to own a dwelling house and other immovable property necessary for their investment.

7. Regional hub with access to a wide market

• With a population of more than 85 million people, Ethiopia is the second largest market in Africa, and is also part of the Common Market for Eastern and Southern Africa (COMESA) comprising 19 member countries and over 400 million people.

• Addis Abeba has emerged as a regional hub and is home to key international organizations such as the African Union (AU) and the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa (UNECA).

49

Ethiopian Economy

• Addis Abeba is also the main air hub for Africa and the home of Ethiopian Airlines, which has won repeated recognition as the best airline in Africa. As well as services to 19 domestic destinations, Ethiopian offers flights to 83 international destinations and carries two thirds of Africa’s air freight.

• Ethiopian products have duty-free, quota-free access to the U.S. and EU markets under the African Growth and Opportunities Act (AGOA) and the Everything But Arms (EBA) initiative.

Infrastructures

Electricity Supply

Ethiopia has enormous potential for hydropower generation. Several studies have so far been carried out to identify Ethiopia’s energy potential and to develop short, medium and long-term investment plans for the power sector.

The country’s hydropower potential is estimated to be 45,000 MW and the potential for generating electricity from geothermal is about 5,000 MW. The country is also endowed with enormous potentials of other renewable energy sources like solar and wind, particularly in rural areas. Despite such huge resources, the country has so far managed to utilize very little of its power generating potential. Since the formulation of the last comprehensive power system expansion master plan, the fundamental and unprecedented structural change that have taken place in the economy are now finding their driving force in the power sector.

Currently, Ethiopia has around 2,000 MW of installed power generating capacity, out of which 1,980 MW (99%) is generated from hydropower plants. The remaining 12 MW (0.6%) and 8MW (0.4%) comes from thermal and geothermal sources respectively. According to the five year Growth and Transformation Plan (GTP), the country’s installed electricity generating capacity is expected to reach 10,000 MW by the end of 2014/15 from the current level of 2000MW. In the same year, the electricity coverage of the country will be 75 percent.

Telecommunication

The Ethiopian Telecommunications Corporation (ETC), which is state owned, is the sole telecom service provider in the country. The corporation provides national and international telecommunication services using satellite, Micro-wave Digital Radio Multi Access System (DRMAS), VSAT, UHF, VHF, Long line and HF Radio.

All regional cities and towns are connected by direct microwave links, and have automatic telephone and cellular phone services. International links are maintained via satellite earth stations and fiber optics, providing telephone, telex, fax, internet, television, digital data transmission, pre-and post-paid cellular phones and coin box services.

Furthermore, Ethio-telecom is currently engaged in a major transformation work of Next Generation Network (NGN) projects to create a world class telecom service.

According to the Growth and Transformation Plan (GTP), the country’s subscribers for fixed line, mobile telephone and internet users will be 3.05 million, 40 million and 3.69

50

Ethiopian Economy

million, respectively by the end of 2014/15.

Water Supply

Ethiopia has huge run-off and ground water potential. However, it utilizes a small portion of these resources. Access to safe potable water in urban area was 92.5 percent in 2010/11. Access to safe potable water in rural areas was about 71.3 percent in the same year. The overall national average of access to potable water supply was 73.3 percent.

A huge project deemed to satisfy safe water demand in the towns and rural areas was launched by the country’s first five year development plan. Accordingly, the national access to potable water supply is expected to be 98.5 percent by the end of 2014/15.

Road Transport

Road plays a vital role in transporting people and goods in Ethiopia. Cognizant of its cardinal role, the Government has identified the road sector as top priority for public investment and progress has been made in the expansion of the road network in the country.

Addis Abeba, the capital city, is an important regional and international transportation hub. The road network radiates from Addis Abeba to regions linking it with important cities, towns, and other economically active centers of the country. International highways also link Addis Abeba and other cities and towns with neighboring countries such as Kenya, Djibouti, Eritrea, Somalia and Sudan.

In 2010/11, the total road network, excluding community roads, had reached 53,143km, out of which 42.2 percent are Federal roads and the remaining 57.8 percent are rural roads with annual growth rate of 10.7 percent.

Based on the classification of the road network, about 22,431km are in the Federal network of which asphalt road constitutes 37 percent and gravel road 63 percent.

All-weather rural road grew by 14 percent per annum constituting 30,712km of the total road net work in 2010/11. In the same year, the community road, non engineered road, was 854km. In line with the five year Growth and Transformation Plan (GTP), the Government has targeted to increase the total road net work to 64,500km.

Air Transport

Air transport is an important part of Ethiopia’s transport network. Ethiopian Airline, Africa’s World Class Airline, which has gained a very good reputation internationally in its 68 years of active services, provides both domestic and international air transport services. It has an outstanding safety records and is one of the few profitable African airlines.

Ethiopian services include both passenger and cargo transport in its international flight and domestic routes. It also provides training and maintenance services to more than a dozen other African and Middle Eastern airlines. Domestic flight services are provided through 19 destinations across the country.

51

Overview Ethiopian Airlines (Ethiopian) is the fastest growing and most profitable airline in Africa.

In 2014, IATA ranked Ethiopian as the largest airline in Africa in revenue and profit. In its operations in the past close to seven decades, Ethiopian has been a pioneer of African aviation as an aircraft technology leader providing the first jet service in the continent in 1962, and availing the first African B767 in 1984, the first African B777-200LR in 2010 and the first African and second only to Japan B787 Dreamliner in 2012.

Ethiopian commands the lion share of the pan-African passenger and cargo network operating the youngest and most modern fleet to more than 83 international destinations across five continents. Ethiopian fleet includes ultra-modern and environmentally friendly aircraft such as the Boeing 787, Boeing 777-300ER, Boeing 777- 200LR, Boeing 777-200LR Freighter and Bombardier Q-400 with double cabin. In fact, Ethiopian is the first airline in Africa to own and operate these aircrafts.

Ethiopian joined Star Alliance, the world’s largest Airline network, in December 2011. This enables Ethiopian customers to enjoy seamless travel experience allowing them access to 21,900 daily departures, 1329 destinations within 194 countries.

Ethiopian is currently implementing a 15-year strategic plan called Vision 2025 that will see it become the leading airline group in Africa with seven strategic business units: Ethiopian International Passenger Service; Ethiopian Regional Service; Ethiopian Cargo; Ethiopian MRO; Ethiopian Aviation Academy; Ethiopian In-flight Catering Service and Ethiopian Ground Service. Ethiopian is a multi-award winning, including SKYTRAX and Passenger Choice Awards in 2013 and has been registering an average growth of 25% per annum in the past seven years.

Network Information

Services to more than 85 International and 20 Domestic destinations: International Destinations In Africa (49): * Abidjan, Abuja, Accra, Addis Ababa, Bamako, Bahir Dar, Bangui, Berbera, Blantyre, Brazzaville, Bujumbura, Cairo, Dakar, Cottonou, Dar-Es-Salaam, Dire Dawa, Djibouti, Douala, Entebbe, Enugu Harare, Hargeisa, Johannesburg, Juba, Khartoum, Kano, Kigali, Kilimanjaro, Kinshasa, Lagos, Libreville, Lilongwe, Lome, Luanda, Lubumbashi, Lusaka, Malabo, Malakal, Maputo, Mekele, Mombasa, N’Djamena, Nairobi, Ndola, Niamey, Ouagadougou, Pointe-Noire, Seychelles and Zanzibar.

In Europe & the Americas (13): * Brussels, Frankfurt, London, Milan, Madrid, Paris, Rome, Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo, Stockholm, Toronto, Vienna and Washington DC. In the Middle East & Asia (21): * Bahrain, Bangkok, Beijing, Beirut, Dammam, Delhi, Dubai, Hangzhou, Guangzhou, Hong

52

Kong, Jeddah, Kuala Lumpur, Kuwait, Mumbai, Muscat, Riyadh, Sana’a, Seoul, Shanghai, Singapore and Tel Aviv.

Domestic Destinations (20) * Addis Ababa, Arba Minch, Assosa, Axum, Robe-Goba, Bahar Dar, Dire Dawa, Gambella, Gonder, Gode, Humera, Jijiga, Jimma, Kabri Dar, Kombolcha, Lalibela, Mekele, Semera, Shire, Shilavo.

Ethiopian Cargo Network In Africa (15), In the Gulf, the Middle East and Asia (7), In Europe (2): Frequent Flyer Program: Shebamiles, Ethiopian frequent flyer program awards Ethiopian frequent flyers with award tickets, upgrades to the business class, access to all Star Alliance member airline executive lounges, additional free baggage allowance and many other privileges for their accumulated mileages. The more our customer fly the higher the benefits are.

Moreover, after the integration of Ethiopian with Star Alliance, Shebamiles launched a frequent flyer program partnership agreement with over 25 airlines including all the Star Alliance member airlines and over 10 nonairline partners (hotels, restaurants, shopping centres etc…) where members have the privilege to earn and redeem miles whenever they utilize the services of these partners.

There are three levels with increasing privileges as a member progress from Blue to Silver, and from Silver to Gold. The sum of status miles or the number of qualifying sectors flown annually determines a membership status to a certain tier. These benefits are not only for international flights but members can also accrue a minimum of 500 miles per flight segment on any Ethiopian Airlines domestic flight.

Ethiopian Background Information

Founded - December 21, 1945 Starting date of operation - April 08, 1946 Major Hub - Addis Ababa Second Hub - Togo, Lome Third Hub

-Lilongwe, Malawi Ownership - Government of Ethiopia (100%) Total Revenue (2012/2013) - ETB 38.5 billion Passenger carried (2013/14) - 6 million Head Office - Bole International Airport, P.O. Box 1755

- Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Tel: (+ 251) 11 665 2222, Fax: (+ 251)11661 1474 Reservations - Tel: (+251) 11 665 6666 (+251) 11 665 6161 Chief Executive Officer - Mr.Tewolde GebreMariam Website - http://www.ethiopianairlines.com www.facebook.com/ethiopianairlines.com www.twitter.com/flyethiopian www.youtube.com/flyethiopian

53

Ethiopian Economy

Ethiopian links the country with over 83 destinations worldwide including Brussels, Frankfurt, London, Paris, Rome, Stockholm, Washington DC, Bahrain, Bangkok, Beijing, Beirut, Dubai, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Jeddah, Kuwait, Mumbai, Delhi, Riyadh, Sana’a, Tel Aviv, Johannesburg, Nairobi, Lagos, Lusaka, Accra, Dakar and many more big cities in Africa. It is also expanding its international services.

Regarding Ethiopian cargo services, it operates over 40 cargo destinations spread across Africa, Europe, Asia and Middle East via its hub- Addis Abeba, and another cargo hub at Liege.

In addition to Ethiopian, other airlines have flight schedules from and to Addis Abeba and these include such airlines as Turkish, Egypt, Emirates, Lufthansa, Kenyan and others.

The Ethiopian Government has taken the policy initiatives for the development of the aviation sector in the country. The most significant initiative undertaken by the government is the opening up of air cargo service to foreign investors without any capacity limit and allowing Ethiopian nationals to provide chartered services using aircrafts with a seating capacity of up to 50 passengers.

Sea Port

In order to ensure efficient, cost effective and reliable import and export movement of cargo to and from the sea ports of neighboring countries, the government has established the Ethiopian Shipping Lines and Logistics Enterprise. The Enterprise is currently operating two dry ports which are located at Modjo, in the Oromiya Regional State, and at Semera, in Afar Regional State.

Addis Abeba, the capital city, is linked by road to the port of Djibouti, at the Gulf of Aden. The port of Barbara in Somaliland and Port Sudan are other external trade routes that provide services for export-import trades of the country. Another potential port accessible to Ethiopia is Mombasa in Kenya.

Financial Service Commercial Banking

The National Bank of Ethiopia (NBE) is the central bank of the country. Commercial banking functions are performed by the state-owned Commercial Bank of Ethiopia (CBE) and a number of private banks. The CBE and private commercial banks offer savings and checking accounts, short-term loans, foreign exchange transactions and mail and cable money transfer services. They also participate in equity investments, provide guarantees and perform other commercial banking activities.

The number of banks operating in the country reached seventeen (three of them government-owned and the rest Private) in 2010/11. These include the two specialized state-owned banks, i.e. the Development Bank of Ethiopia (DBE) and the Construction and Business Bank (CBB). The DBE, with its 32 branches, extends short-medium and long-term loans to viable development projects including industrial and agricultural projects.

54

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Trekking and Camping ----------------------------------------- 58 Trekking Itinerary in the Bale Mountains--------------------- 61 Mountain Biking------------------------------------------------ 67 Road Cycling---------------------------------------------------- 69 Rock Climbing-------------------------------------------------- 71 Motor Biking---------------------------------------------------- 74 Boating---------------------------------------------------------- 75 River Rafting---------------------------------------------------- 78 Wildlife Safaris-------------------------------------------------- 79 Fishing----------------------------------------------------------- 83 Hunting---------------------------------------------------------- 83 Birding----------------------------------------------------------- 84 Horse Riding---------------------------------------------------- 85 Private Flight Tours--------------------------------------------- 86 Caving----------------------------------------------------------- 86 Hot springs------------------------------------------------------ 87 Pilgrimages and Festivals--------------------------------------- 88 Conference Tourism-------------------------------------------- 91 Great Ethiopian Run-------------------------------------------- 92

Erica forest in Bale Mountain National Park Photo By: Eliza Richman

Introduction Ethiopia has been a country of adventure since antiquity. Churches and monasteries have been built up cliff faces for many hundreds of years, requiring toeholds and sometimes even ropes to access them. People have traveled many Kilometers over water by reed kayak for ages on Ethiopia’s lakes. In the South Omo Valley, young men test themselves by running across the backs of bulls lined up side by side. In much of the country horses have been used, not only to travel very far, but also for battle. To this day, people walk many, many Kilometers, no matter the terrain, which often includes mountain passes, valleys, canyons, and ridges, in this land of geological upheaval.

Though all these activities continue up to the present day, Ethiopia has not been known for its adventure tourism, despites its adventurous traditions. Ethiopia is, however, known for its history and culture, but the aforementioned adventurous activities, which have been integrated into the tourism industry along with many others elsewhere worldwide, have not been acknowledged as being an important part of Ethiopian history, and these adventurous traditions are even alive today in the country.

Now, visitors to Ethiopia and their hosts are waking up to the reality that adventure is part of Ethiopia’s history and culture, and people want to participate in it. The ancient traditions of rock climbing, horseback riding, and kayaking as well as hunting, fishing, and trekking are being updated with modern equipment, such as carabineers, reels, and gears, and have been joined by other activities, such as mountain biking, flying, and motor biking.

Anyone who thinks about adventure tourism should consider Ethiopia and be encouraged to take part in this renaissance, which is part of a much larger social and economic movement taking place in Africa’s political capital.

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Trekking and Camping

Photo by: Bale Mountan National Park

Trekking is the most popular type of adventure tourism in Ethiopia, and it’s no wonder.

Simien Mountains National Park and World Heritage Site is not only one of the most spectacular places to trek in Africa but also one of the most spectacular in the world.

It is the crown of the Ethiopia Highlands, which is the largest afromontane zone anywhere. Its escarpment resembles and rivals the dramatic views of the Grand Canyon.

The wildlife is unique, fascinating, and much of it is easy to see.

The lesser known Bale Mountains National Park, itself on the tentative list of World Heritage Sites, is also a world unto its own. While its escarpments are, perhaps, less rugged and abrupt and its top is almost 200m lower than the Simien Mountains, it hosts the largest afroalpine area in the world, on top of the Sanetti Plateau. While it doesn’t have geladas or ibexes, it does have the majestic mountain nyala and just about guarantees a sighting of the Ethiopian wolf, which is much harder to spot in the Simiens.

Besides these two massifs, there are plenty of other places to trek, and the climates vary far beyond the cold afroalpine climates of the country’s two highest mountain ranges.

In fact, at the extreme opposite end of the spectrum, summiting an active volcano that starts around sea level in the hottest place on earth is also possible. Backpacking also gives access to places much farther off the beaten path, sometimes in places not accessible by any other mode.

Whether hiking from camp or taking camp along in a pack in order to go farther on foot than just a day’s travel, camping in Ethiopia is a great way to enjoy the sights, sounds, and smells of this unique biome as they change throughout a 24-hour period.

Simien Mountains National Park

If there is time, even just two days if traveling by air, don’t miss this place. It is often compared favorably with the Grand Canyon or even the Himalayas, its main attribute being an escarpment. Even though a road follows this mega cliff for much of the way, a trail follows much closer, sometimes perilously so, but that only adds to the adventure. Along the first half of the trail, a spur heads west along an obstacle course-style

60

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

trail that ends atop a column with a view across a deep gorge to the tallest waterfall in Ethiopia, Jinbar Falls. After the halfway point along the escarpment, the road veers east to go around a deep valley, but the trail runs straight through it, staying near the ledge, through some of the more untouched parts of the park. It is here that another side trail juts out to the west leading to the end of a precipice called Imet Gogo. This is the most scenic viewpoint in the whole park by many accounts. From there it goes, up one of the highest points of the escarpment, along the biggest, broadest cliff face in the park. The trail and the road don’t meet again until they reach Camp Chenek, in a saddle between the aforementioned highpoint and Mount Bwahit, the fourth-highest point in the Simien Mountains (and all of Ethiopia).

Mount Bwahit is a short climb about one Km and 160m above the highest part of the road in the park. The ease of climbing the fourth-highest peak in Ethiopia contrasts with the difficulty of climbing the highest, which is separated from the nearest road by a deep valley. Ras Dejen (Ras Dashen), at 4,543m, is the highest point in Ethiopia, and, while it may not even make the list of the top 10 highest peaks in Africa (depending on the prominence requirements of the list), it is the second-most prominent peak on the continent and the 23rd-most prominent in the world.

The Simien Mountains are also the fifth-highest mountain range in Africa, and, even though it can snow on Ras Dejen at any time of the year, barefoot shepherd boys are no less ubiquitous here than in any other part of the Simien Mountains. Ras Dejen’s slopes are also a good place for Ethiopian Wolf sightings, which are part of a local population that is smaller but more genetically diverse than that of the Bale Mountains.

In all, there are many reasons to visit Simien Mountains National and even to climb to the summit of Ras Dejen.

Ethiopian Holidays Package TOUR NAME: Trekking – Simien Mountains TOUR CODE: EH-108 ITINERARY: Addis Ababa-Simien Mountain track route DURATION: 10 nights and 11 days VALIDITY: December 31, 2015 Contact Info:- Email: Info@et-holidays.com, Tel: +251-116-184-360

Bale Mountains National Park

The cold, windswept Sanetti Plateau is the largest contiguous afroalpine area in the world. It is an otherworldly scene. If the planet Mars were to be terraformed, it might look something like the Sanetti Plateau – volcanic, cold, and treeless, except for some strange-looking giant lobelias. The scene is brushed with lots of silvers, blues, greens, and grays from the low-growing vegetation, tarns, and basalt columns, that contrast with the red volcanic soil. The largest native inhabitant of this strange landscape is the rarest wolf, the rarest canis, and even the rarest canid in the world, the Ethiopian red wolf. Though there are only a few hundred left in various afroalpine islands scattered throughout Ethiopia, the Sanetti Plateau hosts over half of them and virtually guarantees a sighting. There are sweeping views along every trail framed by basalt outcrops and highlighted by countless tarns stretching out towards the horizon, such as the Crane Lakes. But this is not all there is to the park.

61

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Below the Sanetti, in the misty afromontane forests, lives the mountain nyala. This regal, spiral-horned antelope can reach up to 300kg and 1.35m in height up to the shoulder. It is majestically marked with two white collars around its neck, thin white stripes tracing down a few ribs from its spine, a wavy row of white spots running from the front to the back on each side, and white patches on its legs.

While the forest on the south side of the Sanetti Plateau is not as favored for mountain nyalas, it is a treat in itself. This is because it is made up almost entirely of giant heather trees. Below the heath forest lays the Harenna Forest bamboo jungle.

Photo by: Brian Barbre

From the park headquarters in Dinsho, there are easy day hikes to the surrounding forested hills, with plenty of wildlife to see quite easily, including mountain nyalas and other bovines, as well as giant forest hogs, bushpigs, and warthogs. A gentle hike out to

the Weyb Waterfall traverses lush meadows and native grassland, where various types of mega fauna can be seen browsing. The falls itself is a peaceful place to picnic.

There are also three main hikes from Dinsho to the Sanetti Plateau. The long but easy way is to drive far to the east where the road then heads south to Robe and Goba before continuing up to the plateau. This way, it is possible to hike the plateau with fresh legs, having skipped the ascent to 4,000m via motor transport.

The most direct route heads due south from Dinsho. After passing the Worgona Campsite, situated between a series of peaks and the Worgona Valley, the trail splits, with one trail passing by each side of the second-highest mountain in the Bale Mountains, Mount Batu, which tops out at 4,203m. This mountain is actually more rewarding to climb than the highest mountain, Tulu Deemtu, which has a communications tower accessible by vehicle from the Sanetti Plateau. The trail running along the southeastern side of Batu leads to two campsites among myriad afroalpine lakes up on the plateau – Garba Guracha Campsite and Sanetti Campsite.

The southwestern trail on the other side of Batu Ethiopian Holidays Package TOUR NAME: Trekking – Bale Mountains heads to the Rafu CampTOUR CODE: EH-109 site, where lava flows have ITINERARY: Addis Ababa-Bale Mountain track route left purpose built-looking DURATION: 06 nights and 07 days pillars of stone above the VALIDITY: December 31, 2015 Contact Info:- Email: Info@et-holidays.com, Tel: +251-116-184-360 Harenna Escarpment.

62

Trekking Itinerary in the Bale Mountains with Biniyam Admassu, FZS Ethiopia (for more info: www.balemountains.org)

Duration: 9nights/10 days

This journey takes you down the Rift Valley to home of the half global population of Ethiopian wolfs (canid simensis); the endemic mammals of Mountain Nyala (Tragelphus buxton), Gaint molerat with stunning Afroalpine mountains and natural scenery. Head deep into the heart of Sanetti Plateau (island in the air) and explore the vast moorland, Afroalpine plants and see Africa’s most endangered carnivore and the world’s rarest canid and the rodent specialist.

Day 01: Arrive Addis Abeba. Transfer to hotel. Morning at leisure. Afternoon, half-day city tour of Addis

Day 02: leave Addis Abeba south along the great rift valley, first you drive 250 km to Shashemene (unauthorized Ethiopian capital of the Rastafarian community) then turn to left at and take the gravel road (158 km) towards Goba through increasingly magnificent mountain scenery and spend the nights at Dinsho lodge.

Day 03: full day exploration of the northern wood land of the park ; As you go along the grass land then the wood land there are a number of animals to see – like the endemic mountain Nyala and other animals like Warthog, Reed buck, Menlik`s Bush buck and Grey Duiker. O/n Adelay Camping .

Day 04: trek to Fincha Habera wildrenss camp site set at an altitude of 3,400m asl . The trek takes 6 to 7 hours. The landscape is covered with small shrubs which make it easy to spot such animals as the Ethiopian wolf , Abysinian Hare and rock Hyrax. O/n Camping

Day 05: Leave the camp towards the day’s destination is which Morobawa camp site located at an altitude of 3,660m asl. Thetrek takes 5 to 6 hours. The landscape is covered with small shrubs, Hilicracium , heather bushes and Archemila. This site gives you a chance to watch the Raptors soars over head , such as Lammergeyer, Steep, Golden, Tawny eagles and Auger Buzzards. O/n Camping

Day 06: After breakfast, start your 7 to 8 hours- trek towards Rafu situated an altitude of 3968m asl, nestling among massive pinnacles of rock ,etched out of the lava flows by millions of years of ice and winds’. O/n camping Day 07: The scenic trail to Gebre Guracha (5 to 6 hour-treks) offers splendid views of the so-called “Black Lake”. Many interesting water birds can be spotted here. These trails takes you to the Sanetti Plateau endowed by several peaks, and climb to the top of domed Tulu Dimtu ( the “red mountain “ in Local language) the second highest mountain in Ethiopia an altitude of 4,377m asl. O/n camping

Day 08: Hop on your horse for today’s destination Worgona set at an altitude of 3825 m asl, the treks takes 5-6 hour, through Shiya valley then ride on across the arms of the Batu horshoe, the second highest peak in Bale mountains (4203m asl),following the Worogona valley, past the magnificent sheer cliff of Arch`aah. O/n camping Day 09: After breakfast, start your 6 to 7 hour- trek towards Dinsho, through the lovely Danka valley, that gives you a vivid picture of the volcanic activity that shaped the skeleton of this incredible landscape .O/n Dinsho- self help lodge and Day 10: Drive back to Addis.

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Gheralta Mountains

The Gheralta Mountains are a great place for combining hiking and history. Most of the hikes are day hikes or shorter and lead to Ethiopian Orthodox Church monasteries.

Many of the trails go up steep inclines, often necessitating switchbacks, as many of the monasteries are built in somewhat inaccessible places atop rocky buttes for protection and seclusion.

The environment around Gheralta is dryer than elsewhere in the Ethiopian Highlands, so hikes are less likely to get rained out here. Shelter can always be found in the monasteries, but this is more likely to be needed as protection from the sun rather than the rain. Even though the ambient air temperature is pleasant, the solar radiation can be intense.

The scenery, however, is stunning, similar to Moab Utah, with layered rock formations stacked to grand proportions. The tones are earthy reds and yellows, tinged with the light greens of the steppe-like vegetation.

Some of the trails include sections where rock clambering or even climbing is required.

The monks use leather ropes for this and will even pull people up, if necessary. It is essential to be respectful and aware of the rules for entering holy sites. This can be as simple as taking off both shoes before entering, to as severe as not even entering unless male.

Fentalé

Fentalé is a volcano in the hot, lowland environment of Awash National Park in Afar Regional State. The park is a great place to get out of the cold during the rainy season and it is not far from Addis Abeba. There are a lot of safari animals, primates, and birds to see here. Fentalé rises at least 1,000m above the Rift Valley floor. It is covered with acacia woodland and brush. Since there isn’t a lot of shade, it is nice to make an ascent during the cool of the morning. Lunch can be enjoyed at the crater rim before descending to explore the caldera. Part of the crater floor is covered by forest, so it is possible to find shade there.

64

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Some people are even living way out in the center of a volcano that is not yet extinct.

After meeting some of the locals and seeing what life is like for them, additional time can be taken to look for more wildlife before heading back up to the rim.

It should be noted that it is usually forbidden to enter the park on foot. For an early start in order to see the most wildlife, a vehicle should already be prepared and the night should be spent in the town of Awash or, better yet, at Awash Falls Lodge.

Awash Falls Lodge is inside the park, so waiting for the park gate to open in the early morning, isn’t a necessary. There are also some nice day hikes around the Awash River Gorge from the lodge with views of the river and falls and the wildlife there, especially crocodiles.

Erta Ale

This is the longest continuously active volcano in the world, after Stromboli in Italy and Mauna Kea in Hawaii. It is located in the hottest place on earth measured by average temperature. The mountain rises from below sea level in the Danakil Depression to 613m above sea level. Staring into the abyss conjures up images of Mount Doom from The Lord of the Rings. (Just be careful not to throw any rings into the lava, unless they have dangerous magical powers.)

One of the highlights of any trip to the Danakil is camping under the stars. For greater trekking range, it is possible to have camels carry tents and other supplies. This can add to the uniqueness of a trek in the Danakil, as well.

Government requirements for visiting the Danakil are always changing, so it is important to check or go with a tour company that is on the up and up. Sometimes, up to seven civil servants are required by the Afar government. These include guides, armed scouts, and others, and it is no wonder: a handful of Europeans died at the hands of Afar bandits in 2012.

East Langano Nature Reserve

On the other end of the moisture spectrum is the East Langano Nature Reserve, a lush forest where the hot, heavy air of the Rift Valley gets forced upwards by the Bale Massif.

With most rain coming from the Atlantic, orographic precipitation occurs as the air mass is pushed uphill, often releasing the first raindrops over the East Langano Reserve.

There are two eco lodges on the eastern shore of Lake Langano where it is possible to hike into the old growth forest right from the lodge. But, for a real treat, take the only (old) asphalt road east from Route 6 at the south end of Arsi Negele and head for Lepis at the south end of the reserve. After the road turns to gravel and then dirt, it ends at the Lepis Community Conservation Area. At the reception hut, drinks and snacks are available, and it is here that a guide can be arranged for a short day hike to Lepis Falls.

In addition to old growth and plantation forests, the birdlife is spectacular in the reserve, and two of Ethiopia’s most interesting endemic mammals – the colobus monkey and mountain nyala – are also present.

65

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Konso

Deep in Southern Ethiopia is Strawberry Fields Eco Lodge in Karat Konso, a restaurant, farm, eco lodge, and permaculture design training center. Strawberry Fields offers guided treks of the Konso Cultural Landscape UNESCO World Heritage Site and beyond.

The climate is sunnier than many parts of Ethiopia, which also means less rain, hence the terraced landscape that dates back more than 400 years. The stone terraces reach heights of up to five meters and are dotted with stone stelae and wooden statues grouped by family.

Treks range from day hikes to three, six, and 12-day backpacking trips. They include many stops in villages where it is customary to learn local skills like blacksmithing, pottery, and winemaking with honey, for example. It is also possible to spend the night as a prearranged houseguest in villages along the way.

Zuqualla

Zuqualla is an imposing sight that rises hundreds of meters out of the Great Rift Valley, and dominates the horizon when driving between the rift and Addis Abeba, no matter which of the three routes is taken. Most people who climb the mountain are locals who do so for religious and spiritual reasons, as there is an ancient Ethiopian Orthodox Church at the top. However, the climb is also an excellent way for anyone to explore the geography, flora, and fauna of Ethiopia.

While every Ethiopian Orthodox Church is expected to maintain a sacred grove symbolizing the Garden of Eden, the church atop Zuqualla has one of the largest. It is a thick forest full of towering junipers with a rich understory that supports antelopes and colobus monkeys.

Perhaps most enchanting is that the forest rings a serene crater lake. This lake is the only one of the Debre Zeit crater lake chain that sits atop a mountain.

The climb is best accomplished before the afternoon sun, as there is no shade before the top. On the upper section of the mountain, fields of teff appear, and the breeze gets

66

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

noticeably cooler. On a clear day or when the city lights come on at night, Addis Abeba can be seen from the top.

To get to Zuqualla from Addis Abeba, there is a right turn on the main road just after Pyramid Hotel entering Debre Zeit. Go past the gravel pit, asking for directions along the way, as there are a few turns and the road does get more primitive. The approximately 25km journey requires a vehicle with good clearance and ends at a little village called Mariam Wember at the foot of the mountain. Vehicles can be parked in front of the little store or bar, but parking should be negotiated before setting out, to avoid any misunderstandings. The fee, however, should be paid upon return to the vehicle.

Menagesha

As the oldest park in Africa, Menagesha is just a stone’s throw from Addis Abeba. The park dates back to the reign of Emperor Zera Ya’eqob, from 1434 to 1468, when he originally designated it a crown forest. Its name was changed a few years ago from Menagesha-Suba Forest Development Centre to the Finfine Forest Enterprise, SubaSebeta Forest Area Office.

In the park, the lower slopes of Mount Damocha are covered with plantation forests, which form a buffer zone for its natural forest, higher up the mountainside that featuring a wide variety of native tree species.

While the plantation areas are largely devoid of undergrowth, these natural areas of forest are rich with many different types of smaller trees, bushes, shrubs, groundcovers, and flowers, including big red onion-like flowers that grow from a single stem protruding from a bulb. At the top of the mountain are medicinal red-hot poker flowers.

All these provide a rich habitat for many animals, including the endemic Menelik’s bushbuck, anubis baboon, guereza (colobus monkey), bush pig, warthog, leopard, and serval cat, for example. Many different types of birds, including endemics and semiendemics, can also be seen.

From Addis Abeba, the park can be accessed from the town of Sebeta, just outside the capital. There are many minibuses, midi buses, and large buses that pass through the town, many on the way to Jimma, which can drop passengers off in Sebeta at the turnoff for the road to Suba, a village on the edge of the forest.

The cheapest public transport is Anbessa City Bus 62, which costs only a few Birr from the city centre. A sign for the park marks the road to Suba just beyond Bus 62’s last stop on the right-hand side of the road. The bottom of the green sign proclaims, “The Oldest Park in Africa.” The road to Suba is a left-hand turn 300m past a right-hand turn on a small paved side road just off the main road to Jimma. It is a 17km trek to Suba from there.

The park can also be accessed from Ambo Road in Holeta. The turnoff is marked by a sign for an agricultural research centre on the left side of the road just after the newly paved road on the right-hand side that leads to Mugher Cement Factory. It is also about 17km to Suba from there.

67

Menelik’s Bushbuck Photo by: Dr. Ludwig Siege Ethiopia’s Endemic Animal In Menagesha Forest

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Above the main park office, the road leads past a nice campsite surrounded by towering native junipers, with a shelter, fire pit, and (soon) a composting toilet. Shortly thereafter, it branches, with one long road leading to a modest six-meter waterfall that mainly runs during kremt (the main wet season). Yellow-fronted parrots can also be seen here. The other main forest road leads to the upper edge of the forest where there is a museum and a safely guarded place to park vehicles in the shade during treks to the 3,385m summit of Mt. Damocha.

The mountain is an eroded volcanic crater with a jagged rim surrounding the valley floor far below. The valley features a drainage stream that comes out just to the right of the museum and provides an easy, well-worn route past the lower peaks that hide the real summit (from the vantage point of the park). This trail ends at a tiny mountain village, and, unfortunately, the hike to the summit from there is steep and lacks a wellworn trail.

The other option is to head left up the outer wall of the crater, though, this may entail a bit of up and down along the ridge of the crater before the true summit is reached. One benefit of taking the latter route is that it leads past some of the last remaining patches of giant heather trees as well as beautiful clear blue tarns.

The summit is very windy and is especially cold if there is any cloud cover, whatsoever.

The billowing clouds stream right up and over the top of the mountain from below. The scenes created are similar to those of the Bale and Simien Mountains.

If the clouds do let up, a view of Addis Abeba can also be seen. If fact, one return option is to simply walk down the mountain towards the edge of the city, only 13km away. This can also be done in reverse.

Entoto Mountains

There are at least nine sights that can be seen on foot in the Entoto Mountains: views of Addis Abeba, the natural environment of Entoto Natural Park itself, Entoto Mariam

68

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Church, the historical museum, Menelik’s Palace, two Kedus Raguel and Kedus Elias Churches from different eras, the Washa Mikael Church ruins, and runners training on the forest trails. The road to the two Kedus Raguel and Kedus Elias Churches is a paved continuation of the road to Entoto proper from the lower parts of Addis Abeba, making it very convenient to visit.

Even if minibus taxis are used to reach Entoto where most of the other sites are located, one can easily follow the paved road to the left (west) and up the ridge to the church, covering the one-Km distance on foot. The road from Shiro Meda on Entoto Street is very walkable, albeit steep. In fact, the steepness contributes to the low traffic and slow speeds, especially after the first switchback. (Some cars can’t even make it to the top!)

The street is very crowded around Shiro Meda. But, the crowds give way to trees, and one can see native trees, such as junipers, growing up below the eucalyptus plantation, which is as old as the city. Once the hill is crested, the Entoto Mariam Church and Menelik’s Palace can be seen on the right. Washa Mikael requires a 30 minute to 60 minute hike uphill from further east, around the British Embassy or Yeka. The running trails can be accessed from many different parts of northern Addis Abeba, including from the historical Entoto settlement. Other access points include the well-to-do hillside neighborhood in western Yeka.

Mountain Biking Bicycling has not been seen as more than a convenient mode of transportation in the less hilly cities and towns outside Addis Abeba, that is, until recently. Even then, most recreational biking has been reserved for road cycling. However, a few adventure tourism-minded resorts have begun to provide mountain biking as an activity for those who want to experience a little more of the outdoors. In addition, many of Ethiopia’s popular national parks provide excellent trails for mountain biking, but bikes must be brought, as they are not for sale or rent in or near the national parks. On top of that, modern mountain bikes are almost impossible to buy in Ethiopia and very difficult to rent, excluding from a few resorts.

Bicycling has not been seen as more than a convenient mode of transportation in the less hilly cities and towns outside Addis Abeba, that is, until recently. Even then, most recreational biking has been reserved for road cycling. However, a few adventure tourism-minded resorts have begun to provide mountain biking as an activity for those who want to experience a little more of the outdoors. In addition, many of Ethiopia’s popular national parks provide excellent trails for mountain biking, but bikes must be brought, as they are not for sale or rent in or near the national parks. On top of that, modern mountain bikes are almost impossible to buy in Ethiopia and very difficult to rent, excluding from a few resorts.

Around Addis Abeba

The mountains around Addis Abeba do make for some great mountain biking terrain. The most accessible are the Entoto Mountains at over 3,000m, many of which are within Entoto Natural Park. This park on the northern edge of Addis Abeba provides

69

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

foot paths and back roads that are frequently used by long-distance runners for training. They wind and weave through eucalyptus forest, parts of which are being restored with native tree species. There are great views of the capital city below as well as 100plus year-old wooden churches and even a couple of much older rock-hewn churches.

The terrain is very steep on the south side, but the top is a high plateau with lots of easy riding. The main access points are from Entoto Street and Route 3 towards Sululta and Bahir Dar, but the mountains can also be accessed from Omedla Street or from roads east of the British Embassy, including those from the westernmost part of Yeka District.

The next most easily accessible mountains from Addis Abeba are those of the SubaSebeta Forest, formerly Menagesha Forest. They reach over 3,300m and require a 40km approach from Addis Abeba through the towns of Sebeta and Suba. But the dirt roads inside this national forest are the most secluded, provide the best chance of animal sightings, and are well maintained. There is a small entrance fee to pay at the park headquarters, where it is also possible to pay to camp or to stay in the cabins or hostel.

Towering above the lowest plains of Addis Abeba, is Mount Yerer at over 3,000m. Numerous dirt roads ascend its slopes from different directions. The ones from the south are more maintained and forested. But, no matter which direction the mountain is attacked from, route finding skills are necessary, as there are no signs or maps. The top of the mountain is most easily accessed from the northwest, where the mountain’s highest peak is. But it is not wise to just head out in a straight line from Addis Abeba via the neighborhoods of Yerer Ber or Ayat. There are deep ravines and some river crossings infested with hyenas in between. Instead, head towards the mountain from Debre Zeit, the Addis Abeba suburb to the southeast. Just keep in mind that the mountain has multiple peaks with vertical-faced chasms in between, so it is possible to expend a lot of energy climbing one peak, only to find that reaching the tallest one requires a descent of a few hundred meters before further ascent is possible.

Debre Zeit

Mountain biking in Debre Zeit can be as simple as exploring the seven crater lakes and many farms around the city or as challenging as ascending the more than 3,000m Mount Yerer. (See the previous section). At least two resorts, Kuriftu and Babogaya, offer mountain bikes to their guests. There are foreign commercial farms as well as small local farms to explore. Some of the commercial farms even give guided tours. The main roads are paved, but there are many side roads that are dirt, sand, gravel, or even rock.

Lake Hora has a crater rim that rises high enough for territorial views of Debre Zeit all the way to the old runway.

East Langano Nature Reserve

The two neighboring eco lodges on the far side of Lake Langano loan modern mountain bikes for use on an extensive network of trails that wind through savanna, young forest, open fields, and even beautiful old growth forest with streams meandering through it. Starting in the savanna along the lake in the morning before the sun gets too hot is smart. During the hotter part of the day, the deep shade of the old growth forest provides relief. Some of the trees are a few meters in diameter, and the streams are crystal clear.

70

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Simien Mountains National Park

Walia Ibex Photo by: EWCA Ethiopia’s Endemic Animal In SMNP

Mountain biking in the Simiens offers a great balance between walking and driving.

When walking, it can take quite a few days to get from one end of the park to the other, and then there is the journey back! When driving, it is all to easy to rush through, missing some of the hidden gems of the park, such as waterfalls, troops of geladas, ibexes, an Ethiopian wolf, perhaps, or even breathtaking viewpoints. When biking, it is also easier to get over to just the right spot for that perfect camera angle without asking the driver to stop and then jumping out of the car while everyone else waits. The Simien Mountains offer a mix of easy and challenging terrain for biking.

The gravel road through the park follows the top of the famed escarpment, which is relatively level. Still, there are a few steeper grades. The footpaths worn by locals over the centuries are the alternative.

They tend to take the shortest distance between two points, usually without utilizing switchbacks, so this can make for some steep trails, depending on the topography they pass through. Nonetheless, these trails go just about anywhere.

Road Cycling There are few adventure tourism activities that provide as much up-close and personal experience over as wide an area as long-distance road cycling. When traveling by air, only big towns are witnessed; by car everything is a blur; but by bicycle, all the sights, sounds, and smells can be experienced, and there are many more opportunities to interact with the local people. This allows getting to know the country at a much faster pace.

An enjoyable time can be had cycling around Addis Abeba, if the heavy-sulfur diesel exhaust can be tolerated. (It’s better on Sunday morning, at least.) But, to really get away from it all, a loop including Addis Abeba, Bahir Dar, and Weldiya (with a mandatory detour to the truly astounding Lalibela) is the experience of a lifetime. With towns spaced 25km to 50km apart, finding accommodation (while sometimes settling for less than desirable conditions in the smaller towns) should never be a problem. Keep in mind that, due to degraded roads in places and, much more so, the extreme altitude, daily mileage will be reduced compared to cycling in many other countries.

One big decision is whether or not to have a support vehicle. While this greatly increases the cost of a trip, it is quite a relief to jump into a vehicle for the detour to La-

71

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

libela rather than trying to cycle there. The 65km gravel road (one way) starts at nearly 3,000m and descends nearly 1,000m to cross a deep, dry valley before rising back up to over 2,600m at Lalibela. The driver of a hired vehicle can also act as a guide, interpreter, or negotiator. If a vehicle is brought for emergencies, it may not end up being used, but that would be a good thing, anyway. Finally, it is also nice to use a vehicle for carrying belongings.

Alternatively, public transportation can be used when a break from cycling is needed.

But this may involve long waits and require storing cycles on the roof of old buses (along with all sorts of other unimaginable junk from other riders, including animals).

The buses are not only sometimes infrequent but also often slow. The seats are cramped and the air is hot, dusty, and often smelly.

Since finding good enough cycles to rent for a long enough time would be very difficult in Addis Abeba or elsewhere in Ethiopia, it is essential to bring cycles from outside Ethiopia. But, the newer the cycle looks, the more likely customs is to want to tax it.

However, documents proving the plans for which it is to be used can help a lot.

The following is a brief description of the route from Addis Abeba to Weldiya to Bahir Dar and back. This counterclockwise course can also be completed in reverse. In this case, the climbs described will instead be descents and vice versa.

The 130km from Addis Abeba to Debre Berhan is on good, paved road that gradually slants uphill with some undulations through fertile farmland. Already with noticeably cooler temperatures at Debre Berhan, the road makes a tough climb up to about the height of the tallest mountains around Addis Abeba (over 3200m) in order to cross Tarmaber Pass over to the east side of the Mezazo Escarpment that forms the border between the Ethiopian Highlands and the Rift Valley here. Debre Sina is 50km past Debre Berhan along this route and downhill from the pass. Ataye is at a lower elevation still and 125km north of Debre Berhan. While this may be a good distance for one day of riding and there are hotels here, it is a much smaller town than Debre Berhan, so don’t expect much accommodation choice. The larger industrial town of Kombolcha is 110km beyond Ataye and also in the flatlands at only 1,900m in elevation. After this, the road returns to the highlands. The large town of Dessie at 2,500m requires a steep uphill climb for 20 to 30km, depending on which route is taken. The westernmost route is the shortest, as it cuts the corner. If tired from cycling to Kombolcha, don’t push it thinking that Dessie is close at hand. This part of the trip is arduous.

From Dessie, Weldiya is a decent 120km, but this includes a lot of elevation changes, before ending at 2,100m. To break it up, stay in Wichale, which is right at the midpoint.

Weldiya is also where Route 1 must be abandoned before it heads north through a gorge. This is done in order to get to Bahir Dar to the west. Heading west on China Road (so named because it was built by a Chinese company), the newer asphalt road goes to the end of a valley before making the most grueling ascent to over 3,000m.

Gashena is 110km from Weldiya on this nicely paved road. This is the point where almost everyone takes a detour north to Lalibela, which is at the end of the aforementioned 65km gravel road. Once back to Gashena, Nefas Mewcha is a short 70km west, and Debre Tabor is another 70km beyond that (if 140km is not too much for one day).

72

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

The good thing is that these sections have less elevation change, as they follow the tops of 3,000m ridges and plateaus before heading down to Debre Tabor at 2,500m, and they are part of the same good road from Weldiya. From Debre Tabor to Bahir Dar, it is a good 100km, mostly either downhill or flat on good asphalt. However, upon turning south on Route 3, expect more traffic.

After taking some time to visit the island monasteries of Lake T’ana from Bahir Dar, head south to Injibara. The 115km distance is on a smooth road through rolling hills.

From Injibara to Debre Markos, it is a full 140km, which might be too difficult for some riders, though it is on good road. Another option is to cycle to Amanuel, 115km away, and then 95km more, the next day, past Debre Markos to Dejen. Beware that the road between Debre Markos and Dejen has some gravel sections. If coming from Debre Markos, Goha Tsion is 110km away, but this includes crossing the Abay (Blue Nile) Gorge at the end. While the road was recently paved from Addis Abeba to Dejen, much of it in the gorge has succumbed to rock and mudslides and is now gravel again, so this would be a difficult ride. If staying in Dejen, on the western edge of the gorge, it is only 45km to Goha Tsion on the other side, which is much more manageable. Still, due to the condition and grade of the road, which requires mountain bike tires, it might be a good idea to skip this section by taking motor vehicle transport. After a grueling day through the gorge, take it easy by cycling only 70km from Goha Tsion to Fiche. The last day is 115km back to Addis Abeba.

Rock Climbing Rock climbing in Ethiopia has a very long tradition, at least dating back to the foundation of the first churches and monasteries in the country, many of which are located up sheer cliffs. These sanctuaries could have also been used as holy sites for the Jewish or pagan religions that predated Christianity’s arrival, stretching back in time much further.

For example, Debre Damo, which requires climbing a rope to access, was built at least as far back as the sixth century, but could have been a holy site before the arrival of Christianity for a few hundred years before that. Abune Yemata Guh Monastery is in a location that is just as exciting, halfway up a rock pinnacle that towers over the valley floor.

There was also an old imperial tradition for hundreds of years in Ethiopia of imprisoning male members of the royal family atop an amba or flat-topped mountain. This was both to protect them from enemies, in case the current emperor was killed and a replacement was needed, as well as to prevent these relatives from usurping the throne.

Debre Damo was also used for this purpose, but Wehni near Gondar, Amba Alagi near Meqele, and Amba Mariam (Meqdella) and Amba Geshen, both near Lalibela, were better known for this.

Modern rock climbing, on the other hand, is just starting to catch on as an adventure tourism activity in Ethiopia. A few pioneers blazed the way in the 1990s and 2000s by following the aforementioned Ethiopian traditions and taking them to the next level.

Since modern rock climbing allows ascent of much more difficult routes, there are still

73

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

many first ascents to be had in this country that is twice the size of France.

In Ethiopia, there are a lot of great basalt, granite, sandstone, and limestone rock formations. All of them can be found in Tigrai, the most popular place for rock climbing in Ethiopia, but they can also be found in many other parts of the country. While sandstone and limestone are much softer and don’t hold climbing protection as well, it is for this reason that they also host interesting rock-hewn churches and monasteries, which have beautiful frescos and various treasures that are hundreds of years old, if not much older, carved into the soft rock. Tembien and Gheralta are excellent sandstone mountain ranges, with some limestone sections, as well.

Heading west through Tigrai, the scenery changes a ways past Adigrat, especially between the village of Enticho and the city of Adwa. Countless volcanic plugs jut 1,000m out of the green, highland plateau. The scene is intriguingly reminiscent of Guilin China (without its rivers) and is where Ethiopia made African history by defeating the Italian colonists in battle, decisively securing their continued independence. These

74

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

mountains of igneous rock offer stronger anchor points and more friction than the sedimentary rock further east. They also offer views into neighboring Eritrea.

On the other hand, it is not necessary to travel halfway across the country from Addis Abeba for interesting climbing spots. Between Gondar and Debre Tabor there are a handful of basalt ambas easily seen from the main road, including the famous Mount Wehni, topped with historical ruins. This amba was first climbed in 2002 by the group Hot Rock, after a rockslide had destroyed the original stairs decades ago.

There are ambas in other parts of the country that are also steeped in history. Debre Damo is located just north of the halfway point between Enticho and Adigrat in Tigrai. Amba Aradam is located just south of Meqele, and Amba Alagi is south of there. Halfway between Lalibela and Dessie is Amba Geshen, and just south of there is Amba Mariam (Meqdella). The wild horse sanctuary of Kundudo is on an amba northeast of Harrar.

At any rate, great climbing spots can be found all over the county, which is covered by dozens of mountain ranges and crisscrossed by river gorges. There are countless volcanoes, escarpments, and other features in Ethiopia, as the majority of the country is a rugged highland plateau. For logistical reasons, the two highest mountain ranges in Ethiopia, located in Simien Mountains National Park and Bale Mountains National Park, are great places to start. These national parks provide knowledgeable guides, armed scouts, and horses or mules for carrying gear. They also have good road access and maps. When exploring the Simien Mountains, a good place to start is the escarpment. The trail from Debark splits into two parallel tracks, the more popular scenic trail above the escarpment, which mostly follows the main park road, and the less popular route below the escarpment. Both have campsites, but, the higher the elevation, the more the precipitation, so the base of the escarpment will have less vegetation growing in the cracks of the rock to compromise bolts and other protection. Starting from below also provides a more rewarding experience, as vertical progress reveals better and better views.

75

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

In Bale Mountains National Park, there is one prominent cliff that can be seen from the main road, not far to the west of the headquarters at Dinsho. Also, when driving up to the Sanetti Plateau, numerous cliffs can be seen to the left, but up on the 4,000m-high plateau, there are out-of-this-world basalt columns, including some that are freestanding. One of the more spectacular areas is called Rafu. The other advantage of climbing up on the Sanetti is that it is so cold that vegetation is limited, so there are more good clean cracks to exploit in the rock.

There are also some great crags in Addis Abeba’s backyard. These include basalt cliffs with anchored bolts on the north and south sides of the Entoto Mountains, which run east and west, just north of the capital. Amora Gedel, is just uphill from the French Embassy on the south side of the range. Other rock formations on the north side are accessed from the top of Entoto Steet. These basalt cliffs have bolted anchors on many of their routes. Mount Yerer, southeast of Addis Abeba has some great cliff faces as well, both inside its crater and out. Most are best accessed from the southwest side of the mountain. These routes do not necessarily lead to the highest point of the mountain, though. For that, it is best to approach from the northwest. Mount Damocha in the protected Suba-Sebeta (formerly Menagesha) Forest, west of Addis Abeba, also has some great crater walls to climb on its eastern inner rim. The approach from the west avails higher-elevation road access, and the footpath beyond exploits a gap in the crater wall, but hiking up and over the rim from Addis Abeba to the east is also possible.

Motor Biking

Motor biking combines intimacy with the landscape with the speed and excitement of motor transport. There is nothing like feeling the wind, the two-wheel maneuverability, and the acceleration of a motorbike. The sights, sounds, and smells are much more accessible than when traveling by car, and there is the advantage of better gas mileage. Motor biking can be a fast way to get around the countryside, especially by taking shortcuts off the main road. Many roads and trails that can’t accommodate a four-wheel drive vehicle can be negotiated with a motor bike. Bikes can also be transported across Ethiopia’s many rivers by small boat. On the downside, many roads are dusty, and the fine dust coats the face and gets everywhere. Punctures can also be an issue. But with Ethiopia’s constantly changing landscape, all of these problems are easy to forget, as the stunning scenery more than makes up for them.

Popular daytrips on motorbikes start with the mountains around Addis Abeba. While these are also accessible by mountain bike, the increased range of a motorbike means that trips to locations farther afield are also possible in a day. These include Zuquala Crater Lake, Aba Samuel Reservoir, Debre Libanos and the Portuguese Bridge, the Abay (Blue Nile) Gorge, Wonchi Crater Lake, Ankober and the Wof Washa Forest, and lastly the Menz-Guassa Community Conservation Area, which are all accessible within a day.

The last three can easily be turned into weekend trips, as well. Other great weekend trips include the Rift Valley Lakes of Ziway, Langano, Abiata, and Shalla; the Guraghe Zone countryside between Weliso and Hoseana; Fincha Lake; and Awash National Park.

76

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Of course, motorbikes can also be used for cross-country travel such as the northern historical route or the southern cultural route. For the latter, this can be a real advantage, as the roads are often in very bad condition in the south and traveling beyond the main routes reveals more authentic culture, less tainted by tourism. If in the south, don’t miss Chew Bahir (Lake Stephanie). Much of this lake is often dry, and the vastness and flatness of it enables blind riding at full throttle without worrying about hitting a thing. There is also often a lot of wildlife to be seen of the hoofed variety.

In the north, riding makes it easier to get off the beaten track, such as the scenic mountain road between Kobo on Route 1 and Lalibela or the more direct route than Route 1 between Axum and Lalibela, which passes through Sekota.

The unique thing about motor biking anywhere in Ethiopia is that, if desired, it is possible to get just about anywhere over distances of hundreds or even thousands of Kilometers without riding on asphalt. But, no matter what routes are taken, whether major or minor, it is important to always keep on the lookout for the ubiquitous and unpredictable donkey (as well as other moving obstacles) to be able to enjoy the ride all the way to the end.

Boating No matter what one’s personal threshold for adventure is, boating on one of Ethiopia’s many lakes is a rewarding experience. Escaping the bustling city or village life out on a lake in the morning when the water is calm and serene is refreshing, to say the least, and surveilling the complex birdlife is an experience that singly draws many people to Ethiopia in the first place. In the late afternoon, after the winds pick up, particularly on one of the larger lakes such as Lake T’ana or Lake Ziway, boating can become quite exciting and, in some cases, may not even be advisable, if in storm conditions. Waves can get quite big, enough to sink the small tour boats that are mostly in use on these lakes. But, with skill, and the proper equipment, anything is possible to satisfy the need for adventure.

Local fishermen and ferrymen use kayaks made out of papyrus on most lakes, as they have for thousands of years. Other locals use dugout canoes, especially on the southernmost lakes. Tourists are typically transported by modern but rather crude boats made of metal, fiberglass, or wood. These typically hold up to 15 people and are fitted with bench seats. The nicer ones have cushioned seats with sun shades.

Another part of the adventure of boating in Ethiopia is getting close to the abundant wildlife. This can be as tame as watching birds fish for tasty morsels or as dangerous as getting, perhaps, a little too close to some of the largest crocodiles in Africa. In fact, boating is one of the best ways to go on safari in Ethiopia.

Ethiopia’s Rift Valley lakes are the perfect size to explore one in a day. Outside of the Rift Valley, Lake T’ana can easily absorb two or three days of exploration. As such, they make good daytrips or weekend excursions, but they are also popular as part of longer tours because most are situated along routes to the northern or southern sites.

77

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Lake T’ana

Lake T’ana to the northwest of the Rift Valley can take a few days to completely explore, at up to 3,500km2 in area. Even though Lake T’ana has abundant wildlife, most visitors come for its historical sites. It leads as the most interesting lake, by far, when it comes to such sites. Lake T’ana is one of the best lakes to see pelicans and other birdlife and a good place to see hippos. The pelicans are almost guaranteed to be seen on any boat trip, but the hippos are mainly only seen around the lake’s outlet, where the Abay or Blue Nile begins. With a fast boat, it is possible to cross the entire lake in a day, but this would not leave much time for visiting the lake’s islands, which are dotted with fairytale-like medieval churches and monasteries.

In addition to the typical tourist boats, Kuriftu Bahir Dar Resort has a more elegant modern boat. Another option is to take the state-operated ferry boat. In this case, the adventure of boating comes more from traveling with the local people and getting a glimpse of what life is like for them. It takes at least two days to cross the lake from the south to the north or vice versa. This is partly because the ferry makes up to six stops throughout the journey. From Bahir Dar in the south, the first stop is the Zege Peninsula, which boasts a few, if not less authentic, churches. The next stop is in the middle of the lake on Dek Island with its famous Narga Silassie Church. An overnight stop in the village of Konzula on the western shore of the lake follows. There are two more unremarkable village stops along that shore after that, Ereydbir and Delgi, before reaching the historical town of Gorgora in the north, either in the evening of the second day or the morning of the third day, which is the final stop.

Lake Ziway

Boating on Lake Ziway is adventurous for more than one reason. First, any boat ride on the lake usually involves making the long journey from the town of Ziway all the way across to the twin cinder cone peaks of Tulu Gudo Island near the opposite shore of one of the largest lakes in Ethiopia, a journey of about 30km round trip in a relatively small boat. It is also common to encounter one of the most dangerous animals in Africa, the hippopotamus, which is said to kill more people than the crocodile. On the way back in the evening, the Rift Valley winds (which sometimes kick up dust storms) arise, making the water a bit choppy and exciting.

Part of the thrill of boating on Lake Ziway is also the remoteness. One may feel quite alone, as it is rare to see any other outsiders during the whole trip, unlike on Lake T’ana or Hawassa, for example.

Ziway is a routine stop for birders, who normally bird watch from the shore, but it also holds an important place in Ethiopian history. It was here on the windswept shores of Lake Ziway that priests sought refuge for the Ark of the Covenant, which they had brought about 1,100km south from Axum, when the city was being commandeered by the revolting Ethiopian Jewish Queen Yodit Gudit. The priests built a traditional Ethiopian church on a towering ledge of Ziway’s volcanic cinder cone island of Tulu Gudo to house it, and the ruins of this church, as well as a few other buildings, can still be seen here today. There is also an active orthodox church on the island with a corresponding museum that houses a one meter-wide book, weighing 30kg that is possibly the oldest

78

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

book ever found in Ethiopia. The population of the island has declined from a peak of about 5,000 to 1,000, but there is still an active government school for young children there, so visiting this community of the Zay people (pronounced Zai) and seeing their way of life is interesting, too. There are four other islands each with an Ethiopian Orthodox church and one other really small island, known as Bird Island. The island of Gelila is the only other inhabited island. Except for the church on Tulu Gudo, these island churches remain closed during the week except for holidays.

Lake Langano

This lake provides many boating opportunities. It is also known for having the best beach in the landlocked country of Ethiopia and for having the most waterfront resorts of any lake in the country. These resorts offer a wide variety of watercraft for venturing out on the blue, or, in this case, the brown, as the lake has been colored with eroded soil. One of the best things about boating on Lake Langano is that many of the resorts don’t require hiring a boat operator with their boats. Additionally, use of their boats is often included in the room price or even a day-use ticket. This makes it cheaper to go boating, and provides more freedom and privacy.

Unlike resorts at other lakes, such as T’ana, Hawassa, Ziway, and those of Debre Zeit, which are built in the city, Langano’s resorts are miles away from the nearest town.

Boats range from the standard metal boats with outboard motors, seen at most lakes, to plastic kayaks or canoes. Some of the more remote parts of this 300km2 lake are excellent birding spots for the 300-plus species present and are most easily accessed by boat.

Other reasons for boating here include hippo spotting, visiting the lake’s hot springs, and searching out remote beaches for a more private experience.

Lake Hawassa

Since Hawassa is one of the most popular resort cities in Ethiopia and a fast-growing regional capital to boot, a boat trip on the 129km2 Lake Awassa is going to be a more casual experience. While Lake Langano provides respite from the road, the calmer waters of Awassa offer a sanctuary in the city. Despite its smaller size, there is plenty of birding and hippo watching to do away from the hustle and bustle of this young and promising college town, especially around the place called Tikor Wuha (Black Water).

Boats can be found at Amora Gedel Park, as well as around some of the city’s lakeside resorts, such as Lewi Resort & Spa, Haile Resort, and Wabe Shebelle Hotel Number One.

Lake Chamo and Lake Abaya

These twin lakes are separated by a narrow and mountainous strip of land called the Bridge of God. The 1,160km2 Lake Abaya has been colored red with eroded soil, while Lake Chamo is a regular bluish green. Both lakes are good for seeing what may be the longest and even largest overall crocodiles in the world, especially where the Kolfo River meets Lake Chamo’s northern shore. On this delta, nicknamed the Crocodile Market, it is common to see six-meter crocs, not to mention the occasional larger specimen. They are known not only for their length but also their impressive girth, and the large numbers of them makes this, truly, one of the best places in Africa to see crocodiles. Of course, there is plenty of birdlife at these lakes, as usual, and hippos can also be seen here without too much trouble.

79

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Debre Zeit Crater Lakes

The Addis Abeba suburb of Debre Zeit to the southeast of the capital has seven crater lakes (and two seasonal floodplain lakes). Three of the crater lakes have boating services. Ironically, the smallest of these lakes, Kuriftu, has the largest boat – a modern fiberglass-hull pleasure craft. Lake Babogaya (Bishoftu Guda) and Lake Hora have smaller metal and plastic boats. Boating on these little crater lakes does not constitute an adventurous boat trip. It is just an opportunity to relax in a quiet, natural environment and enjoy the birdlife. For a little more excitement, try swimming, as many locals as well as nonlocals do.

Omo River Photo By: SNNPRS Culture And Toursm Bureau

River Rafting Rafting on some of Ethiopia’s rivers is a world-class experience that can rival the experience on any other river, whether in Africa or any other continent. The people, wildlife, canyons, rapids, creek waterfalls, hot springs, and remoteness of it all are all simply unparalleled, especially on the Omo River, but also on the Abay (Blue Nile), Beshilo, and Tekezze Rivers. The experience of meeting excited villagers along the riverbanks from some of the most isolated and decorative cultures in the world is one to remember and that of floating past hippos, crocs, baboons, and endemic colobus monkeys, among many others, is like a dream.

The longer trips seem to erase the realities of the calendar and the clock. Modern society, global positioning systems and cameras aside, seems to fade away. Fishing for catfish, sliding down creek waterfalls, and swimming in pools add to the excitement of the rafting itself. Camaraderie builds an intimate closeness so simply, compared to the competitive relationships of everyday life.

While camping along sandy riverbanks under the stars after an open-fire meal, anticipation builds over what the next day will bring. When the mind is given the opportunity to contemplate life, away from all the distractions of modern society, in one of the most roadless parts of the world, values are often molded in ways that are life changing.

This is an experience that nothing can erase. For a tamer experience than the aforementioned rivers, the Awash River winds through undulating hills past farm after farm, a bit closer to civilization. While not nearly as remote at the Omo or as dramatic as most other rivers, it is a good way to get out of the city and visit the countryside, even if just for the weekend. The Baro River, on the other hand, combines the remote cultures of the Omo with the tamer course of the Awash. It is the only commercially navigable river in Ethiopia and used to boast its own port.

80

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Generally, rafting can only be done at certain times of the year, usually during the dry season. Also, due to the extensive preparation and permission from the concerned government authorities, it should be set up far in advance. Some tour operators are more experienced and own their own rafts, while others rent them and rely on the experience of others. The former should have lower prices for the boats, but may have higher prices for their more experienced staff. It can be worth paying extra for staff experience, but this may not cure the jitters when approaching a thundering river horizon. More experienced outfits will also know whether or not security is needed and what kind.

Wildlife Safaris With so many other things to see and do in Ethiopia, wildlife safaris have been kind of neglected in the country, despite the Great Rift Valley running up through Tanzania and Kenya right into the center of Ethiopia. While many people come to Ethiopia to see the afroalpine fauna, there are also plenty of traditional safari-type animals to see. Though lion spotting is not an activity that locals have developed, it is sometimes possible to see these beasts in Ethiopia. However, the real gem among Ethiopian safaris is the whiteeared kob migration phenomenon where about a million of white eared Kob population seasonally move across, Gambella National Park into South Sudan’s Boma National Park.

When combined with other antelopes species this forms the second-largest terrestrial wild mammal migration in the world next to the Great Migration of the Serengeti and Massai Mara wildbeest migration.

To witness this Serengeti-like experience, it is essential to come to Gambella National Park at the right time of year. The white-eared kob grazes in Gambella during the dry season from November to April and crosses the boarder south to South Sudan for the wet season from May to October.

Babile Elephant Sanctuary

While there are as many as nine parks and sanctuaries with elephants in Ethiopia, it is difficult to find them in most cases. Babile Elephant Sanctuary in the eastern part of the country is different. This vast protected area stretches south from the historical city of Harrar and the little town of Babile. The main entrance to the sanctuary is situated mid way between Harrar and Babile.

The best time to see elephants in Babile is during the dry season, when they are easier to locate. This is because they tend to stay closer to the few remaining water sources. There are four parallel riverbeds that run north to south just like the road, two in the middle and one on each boarder of the park. One of the best areas to find the elephants is along the Gobele River, which is the first river to the west of the road.

The sanctuary does have some dramatic geological features, and, unfortunately, sometimes the elephants go way down into an inaccessible part of the park. It is, therefore, wise to plan for a week’s stay in the Harrar area. That way, if the elephants are not accessible at the beginning of the trip, other sights can be enjoyed around Harrar before checking back again in a few days.

81

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia Photo By: EWCA

Some of the elephants used to have tracking collars. So, uploading their location was possible with the right guide who had access to this information.

The foremost expert on elephants in Ethiopia is Yirmed Demeke (PhD), who organized and led several expeditions to put tracking collars on the elephants in Babile as well as in other areas. Other places to check for elephants include Omo National Park, Mago National Park, Alatish National Park west of Gondar and bordering Dinder National Park in Sudan, Kafta Sheraro National Park in western Tigrai on the border with Eritrea, Geraille National Park in Somali, Chebera Churchura National Park in the southern part along the Gibe-Omo Valley between Jimma and Sodo, and Gambella National Park.

Awash National Park

Photo by: Dr. Ludwig Siege

For the most convenient safaris, Awash National Park’s ravaged volcanic landscape, little more than 200km west of Addis Abeba, wins the crown. It is also only a bit more than 100km from Nazareth (Adama), the cultural capital of Oromia Regional State, and it is located on the busiest highway in the country. It is also the only park, along with those of the Simien Mountains and Bale Mountains, to have a new lodge or any lodge for that matter, and Nazareth has a lot of brand new modern hotels, if lodges are too rustic. The best time to see wildlife is sunset or sunrise. It is, therefore, best to stay at Awash Falls Lodge, which is worth a look-see, if not just for the unique Awash Falls.

Soemmering’s gazelle

While there are lions at Awash, it is much easier to see the lion’s prey. There is a wide range of antelopes in the park, including Soemmerring’s gazelle, the Beisa oryx, Salt’s dik dik, the Lesser kudu, the Greater kudu, and Defassa waterbuck. But, if these animals aren’t dangerous enough to be exciting, a trip to the hyena cave may be in order. The hyena cave is where these bone-digesting wretches sleep at night. Arriving early enough will ensure that their entrance in the evening or their exit in the morning can be witnessed.

82

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

It is necessary to take a scout along, if not also a guide, when entering the park, especially the northern side. Getting a local guide from the park office who is experienced at finding wildlife is well worth it, anyway.

Awash Falls is more than just a unique artistic waterfall, it is also a great place to sunbathe, at least for large reptiles with powerful jaws! Lions and hyenas are not the only large carnivores in the park, after all. Crocodiles are certainly plentiful here and can be seen right from Awash Falls Lodge, which has a great terrace for sipping macchiatos.

For a closer look, take the not-so-tame nature trail along the river.

If more croc time is still needed, a trip out to the far reaches of the park for a dip in the hot springs is memorable. Just make sure to only swim in the hot pools, as the crocs lurk in the cold ones.

Whether wanted or not, baboons and monkeys find their way into every safari in Awash National Park. There are aggressive anubis baboons, pesky grivet monkeys, majestic colobus monkeys, and wild hamadryas baboons. Some of them are kleptomaniacs and only need a few seconds to nab something from a vehicle, a room, or even a person.

A few additional animals tend to be seen around the park, including ostrich, tortoise, warthogs, and even jackals. With a bit more conservation work and better guides, it might not take so much luck to see a lion or some of the other rarities, such as leopards, caracals, serval cats, and wildcats, someday.

Nech’sar National Park

If visiting the tribes of the South Omo Valley, it may be more convenient to visit Nech’sar (Nech’sar) National Park than Awash National Park. This is because just about all routes to the South Omo Valley pass right by the park through Arba Minch’ and often include at least one night’s stay there. The park is practically in Arba Minch’s backyard, encompassing the narrow, mountainous isthmus between lakes Abaya and Chamo as well as a lot more land on the far side of the lakes from the city. It is a beautiful park with Savanna, Groundwater forest, Acacia woodland, Dry bush, and Riverine forest.

If safari adventures were just about the big five, Ethiopia’s parks wouldn’t warrant a visit.

However, some people would rather see a zebra or giraffe, which are not members of the so-called big five African safari animals; (than to see a water buffalo, which is one of the big five along with lions, elephants, rhinoceroses, and leopards). For some great zebra sightings, a trip to Nech’sar National Park to see the northernmost population of plains zebras is a good idea. It is here in this southern city’s backyard that the sight of Burchell’s zebras in one of the most scenic national parks in East Africa is pretty much a guaranteed treat. They can even sometimes be seen in herds of more than 100.

Different versions of many of the same animals in Awash National Park can be seen in Nech’sar. For example, instead of Soemmerring’s gazelle, Nech’sar has Grant’s gazelle. Instead of Salt’s dik dik, there are Guenther’s dik diks. Instead of grivet monkeys, there are vervet monkeys. There are also Anubis baboons, Colobus monkeys, Bushpigs, Warthogs, Greater kudus, Bushbucks, and Hyenas, among others.

83

Photo by: Dr. Ludwig Siege

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Sadly, lions and Swayne’s hartebeest may be in the process of being extirpated from the park. To see the latter, it’s best to go to Senkele Wildlife Sanctuary or Maze National Park. It is also surprisingly easy to find a handful of antelopes at Abiata Shalla National Park on the west side of the road around Lake Langano. These include Grant’s gazelle, Greater kudu, Oribi, and Klipspringer.

Born Free Foundation Ethiopia Born Free Foundation Ethiopia (BFFE) was officially established in 2008 to support the conservation and welfare of wild animals in Ethiopia, especially by tackling illegal trade and ownership. However wildlife conservation in Ethiopia began many years previously with funding support for the Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme (EWCP).

BFFE works closely with the Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority (EWCA), and it has a remit to provide assistance in many areas of wildlife protection.

The current main focus for BFFE team is to develop ‘Ensessakotteh’ – a Wildlife Rescue, Conservation and Education Centre that is being built on the outskirts of Addis Ababa. With this Centre as a base, the BFFE team works together to provide care for wild animals that are either confiscated or rescued; conduct conservation programmes; conduct centre based and outreach environmental education programmes and to help the Government build capacity in wildlife management.

Anyone concerned in welfare of wild animals in Ethiopia can support this initiative. For further information visit www.bornfree.org.uk or Blog site: http://bornfree.wildlifedirect.org Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.

84

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Fishing A far cry from the parched desert images used to solicit donations for charities, Ethiopia is a land of many lakes. Some of the closest lakes to Addis Abeba are the many small crater lakes of Debre Zeit. Whether making it a day trip or staying at one of the many lodges or hotels in what has become a resort-town suburb of Addis Abeba, a quiet morning fishing on a still, serene lake, before the sun heats up the air and the convection winds arise and before other tourists or day-trippers make their way down to the lake, is one of the most relaxing things that can be done in Ethiopia.

The much larger Great Rift Valley lakes as well as Lake T’ana are known for their growing commercial fish production, which is a source of income for an increasing number of people. Fishermen can often be seen where Ziway’s street grid meets the lake by the same name. A little further south on Lake Langano, some of the resorts lining its shores actually provide gear to anglers for fishing. Further south still, Hawassa is known for its fish market, and way down south by Arba Minch’, Lake Abaya and Lake Chamo, are known for their fish farms.

While fishing for Nile perch and tilapia on Ethiopia’s lakes can make for an exciting new experience, fly fishing in the clear, cold streams of the Bale Mountains amongst the fragrant wildflowers and browsing mountain nyalas is the experience of a lifetime.

Nine cascading mountain streams were stocked in the 1970s with trout that have since thrived in the unique afromontane environment. The best streams for fishing today are the Web, Shaiya, and Danka rivers. Brown trout get as big as 4.5kg and rainbow trout up to 1.3kg. Unless staying at the new 2013 Bale Mountain Lodge, where gear can be rented and guides hired, it is necessary to bring equipment for fishing. Guides are also available from the Dinsho Rural & Agricultural Office. This is also where to purchase the mandatory fishing permit.

Hunting The thrill of hunting dates back to the human race’s days before civilization as huntergatherers. It’s about not only being immersed in nature but also playing a part in nature’s life or death struggle. Often those memories are brought home in the form of a trophy, which will last a lifetime.

Since hunting usually ends in the destruction of an animal’s life, some people associate it with the destruction of an ecosystem or even an entire species, but this is usually not the case. In fact, properly managed sport hunting is sometimes the only way to prevent extinction, given the limited resources available to protect animals from poachers who kill without regard for nature’s future or the future of the sport of hunting.

The story of the elephant in Ethiopia is a prime example. Elephants were once common in the country. There were a handful of companies that successfully led hunting operations and were permitted land on which to operate. Of course, their main source of income came from hunting the biggest and best-known animal on the continent,

85

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

the African elephant. But when the movement to end elephant hunting in Kenya arose and spread to Ethiopia, Kenya’s elephants became more concentrated in its well organized parks, while Ethiopia’s elephants were decimated everywhere by habitat loss and poaching. With Ethiopia’s lack of organized parks for elephants and lack of tourism dollars from traditional safaris, hunting permits had been the best way to preserve the population. Once hunting of these beasts was banned, there was no incentive for the companies to protect the population for future hunts and no source of income to pay for it. Ethiopia’s elephant population was decimated.

It is, perhaps, for this reason that it is still possible to hunt one of the rarest, most unique, and most majestic animals in Ethiopia, the endangered endemic mountain nyala. While the government works to protect the nyala by regulating permits, licenses, and product exports, the main hunting operations, including Ethiopian Rift Valley Safaris and Rocky Valley Safaris pay locals in their permit areas to protect these antelopes and their habitat. While the license to kill one Nyala is currently 10,000 dollars, that is just a fraction of the cost paid to the hunting outfits for the safari.

Soemmerring’s gazelle, Beisa oryx, Abyssinian greater kudu, Abyssinian bushbuck, Menelik’s bushbuck, Neumann’s hartebeest, Northern Grant’s gazelle, Northern gerenuk, Salt’s dik dik, and Cordeaux dik dik are also only hunted in Ethiopia, and the largest lesser kudus are found in Ethiopia, as well. There are many other animals that can be hunted in addition to these. There are a number of Controlled hunting and Open Controlled hunting areas managed by regional states, mostly in the Oromia and Afar regions. You can get detailed information from Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority (EWCA).

Ruspolis Turaco Photo By: Dr. Ludwig Siege Ethiopia’s Endemic Bird Found In Yabello Area, Southern Ethiopia

Birding Birdlife is one of the main reasons that people come to Ethiopia. Many tour companies specialize in birding, with guides who know literally just which trees to look for a particular bird in, and itineraries that last several weeks. Birds in Ethiopia range from local birds and breeding birds to migrant birds and wintering birds. There are many waterfowl, wading birds, songbirds, raptors, game birds, swifts, and nighthawks that live in a wide variety of environments from forests, meadows, shorelines, cities, and urban green spaces.

86

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

In all, there are nearly a thousand species. Of the local birds, there are 23 endemics as well as other near-endemics. The near-endemics are mostly either shared with Eritrea, which doesn’t have any endemics of its own, Somalia, or Kenya. The reason for Ethiopia’s high endemism, not only among avifauna but all life forms, is that most of it is a cool afromontane island plateau surrounded by hot, mostly arid lowlands. This unique geography, representing the largest afromontane and afro-alpine region on the continent, gives it some of the highest rates of endemism on the continent.

On the best tours, over 800 species of birds can be seen, including the fabled Ruspoli’s turaco, strange Stresemann’s bush crow, Rouget’s rail, spot-breasted lapwing, remarkable thick-billed raven, extremely localized Salvadori’s seedeater, rare red-billed pytilia, as well as many other endemics and near-endemics.

Lucky for birders, some of the rarest birds are also the most range-restricted. In fact, apart from the Nech’sar nightjar, most of the endemics and near-endemics can readily be seen with the right guides and enough time. Typical tours cover lush highland plateaus and dramatic river gorges north of Addis Abeba, the Great Rift Valley to the southeast, the high afro-alpine Senetti Plateau in the Bale Mountains on the other side of the valley, and dry bush land to the south.

Horse Riding Ethiopia has the largest horse population in Africa and one of the largest in the world.

As such, there are many places to hire horses for riding. In Addis Abeba, horses can be hired at the Balderas Stables as well as at the Jan Meda Stables. The British, French, German, and Italian embassies also have stables. There are many trails in the mountains surrounding the capital to enjoy horseback riding on.

Outside the metropolis are a few destinations set up to accommodate guests with riding horses. The closest places are Adulala Resort in Debre Zeit and Wonchi, which is a mountainous crater lake between the towns of Ambo and Weliso, west of Addis Abeba.

Bishangari Lodge on the eastern shore of Lake Langano, offers some great riding, as well. While horses tend to be smaller in Ethiopia, those at Bishangari are of decent size.

Trail conditions range from sunny lakeshores and open fields to old growth forests and riverine forests.

South of Lake Langano, just east of Arsi Negele is the community of Lepis. The stables here were set up with tourism training from the US and horse training from Europe.

Plenty of forest and the foothills of the Bale Mountains are here to explore, complete with the beautiful Lepis Falls.

However, horseback riding in the afromontane and afro-alpine environments is a whole different ballgame. It is quite easy to do multiday rides here, camping at night.

The Simien Mountains also offers horseback riding, but the horses tend to be smaller and not as well cared for.

87

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

Private Flight Tours Seeing Ethiopia by road is a great way to see the county up close and personal, but it can also be a long, tiring, and dusty trip on Ethiopia’s sometimes bumpy and windy, though vastly improved, roads. On top of that, if travelling by hired Landcruiser rather than bus, it is a lot more expensive than it was 10 years ago. The other option is to travel by air. Ethiopian Airlines flies to Lalibela, Gondar, Axum, Bahir Dar, Harrar, and many other places. But, in doing this, many of the sights (and all of the sounds and smells) in between tourist sites are missed. Additionally, Ethiopian doesn’t fly to some destinations, such as the Simien Mountains.

For a little bit of the best of both worlds, travel by chartered flight, especially helicopter, does the trick and is a real treat, for those with a little sense of adventure. When travelling by chartered flight, such as with Abyssinia Flight Services, the pilot can fly low over the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela or through the jagged peaks and canyons of the Simien Mountains. Helicopters can even fly through narrow river gorges or land on mountain precipices.

In short, chartered flights can go more places, get closer to sights on the ground, and can even be fairly economical, when costs are shared with enough passengers in a group. Currently, Abyssinia Flight Services, National Airways (formerly Air Ethiopia), Trans Nation Airways, and Ethiopian Airlines offer chartered flights around Ethiopia and beyond.

Caving

Sof Omar Caves

Photo by: Tahdiyh Baggaly

Ethiopia is a land of diverse geological formations. In some parts of the country, volcanic rock dominates, but, in others, sedimentary rock dominates, including limestone.

This is where caves can sometimes be found.

88

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

There is much work to be done in identifying and publishing information on caves in Ethiopia, so local knowledge must be used in many cases, when trying to find them.

When nosing around for caves in Ethiopia, it is best to have written permission from the regional state or even federal government all the way down to the local offices, as people may suspect that mining is the purpose of poking around underground.

However, the most well-known cave in Ethiopia is an exception to this rule. Holqa Sof Omar is one of the most spectacular and extensive cave systems in the world. A vast underworld has been created by the Weyib River’s erosion of limestone rock formations. The system is located east of Robe, which follows the river down from the Bale Mountains. After passing Goro, the village of Sof Omar is reached. Two of the useful entrances of the 15.1km system are here. The route through the cave from here crosses the river eight times. From the second ford, the most spectacular view of the cave can been seen, known as Safari Straight. Crossing all eight fords leads to the grand Chamber of Columns. After, that is another interesting feature called the Big Rapids, after which another main entrance is reached, known as the Holuca Resurgence. The caves are also an important Islamic shrine named after Sheikh Sof Omar Ahmed from the 11th century AD. Another beautiful, more recently explored cave further east, is Gursum Pearl Cave, former known as Goda Oromo. It is located near Biyyu Negheya Village and Kundudo Mesa, east of Dire Dawa. Kundudo is also known for its unique wild horse population.

The cave is 1.4km long and was the site of the discovery of a new freshwater crab species. Far from being the only two caves in Ethiopia, a recent speleological expedition discovered 220 new caves in the country.

Hot springs With the Great Rift Valley running right through the center of the country, Ethiopia is a land of much volcanism. As such, there are many hot springs and even a few small geysers. In fact, hot springs played an important role in the formation of Addis Abeba.

If it wasn’t for Filwoha (Amharic for hot springs or literally boiling water) the capital might be named after Entoto, now just the northernmost neighborhood of Addis Abeba, where Emperor Menelik II built his palace. Perhaps due to the cold elevation of the palace or simply because she like hot springs, the empress built a house downhill at the hot springs, other nobles followed, building their houses nearby, and Menelik II founded the capital down there as Addis Abeba, upon becoming emperor.

Today, Filwoha is a popular place for residents of the city. In fact, the Sheraton Addis and Hilton Addis Abeba hotels use hot spring water to heat their swimming pools, as well. Other popular hot spring swimming pools in Ethiopia include the Olympic-sized Sodere, the traditional Negash Lodge, and the secluded and remote Wondo Genet.

For the more adventurous, there are many undeveloped hot spring pools that can be enjoyed in all their natural beauty. Aweyitu Hot Springs is found in the Oromiya Zone of Amhara Regional State. It is four Kilometers east of the center of the town of Senbete, which is 250km northeast of Addis Abeba on Ethiopia’s main road north. There are

89

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

three large and six small pools. Curiously, there is a loud, roaring noise constantly blaring from somewhere underground. The pools are used for making tea, cooking corn, and even cooking meat. They are also used for washing clothes and curing muscle pain and diseases. Borkana Hot Springs is located a little farther north, in the town of Senbete, the capital of the Oromiya Zone of Amhara Regional State. It is 312km northeast of Addis Abeba (62km north of SenBet) and 75km south of Dessie. The hot springs are found eight Km south of the center of Senbete near Shonke Mosque. Here, there is not only a natural hot tub but also a sauna.

And, where in the world is it possible to soak in a natural hot tub on the shores of a volcanic lake island looking across the water at a gorgeous sunset? The answer is on Lake Ziway’s Tulu Gudo Island. While it is quite an adventure just to get there, there is more to see than a natural, little hot tub. There are historical ruins and a small museum with ancient artifacts including a huge, old, amazing book.

Another hot spring that is also conveniently located near a tourist site, at least for birders, is on the northeastern shore of Lake Shalla in Abiata Shalla National Park. The park used to be known for its great white pelicans but is now, instead, known for its flamingos as well as many other birds. The hot spring is used by locals for bathing.

Finally, one of the most popular undeveloped hot springs is in the northern part of Awash National Park. The pools are deep enough for swimming and are shaded by uniquely branching palm trees.

Pilgrimages and Festivals With Ethiopia’s combination of deep faith, religion, holy sites, and traditional culture, there are many large pilgrimages in the country, both for Christians and Muslims. The famous historical sites of Axum, Lalibela, and Gondar all have major pilgrimages on the various major Christian holidays.

As the most important church in Ethiopia, Axum’s Kidist Mariam Tsion Church hosts a pilgrimage during the Festival of Kidist Mariam, which is November 30th (December 1st, depending upon leap year). Besides this, Mesqel (September 27th or 28th) and Timqet (January 19th or 20th) include some of the best pilgrimages of the major holidays here.

Lalibela has large pilgrimages for every major holiday, including Lidet (January 7th or 8th), Timqet, Fasika (April 12 in 2015), Qidus Yohannes (September 11th or 12th), and Mesqel. The Festival of Kidus Giorgis is also big here, due to the city’s most important church being dedicated to the saint.

Kulubi Gabriel is a huge semiannual pilgrimage in eastern Ethiopia venerating the archangel. The bigger of the two occurs on December 28th or 29th and the smaller, though still very impressive, on July 26th.

Other pilgrimages to look into are those of Debre Libanos Tekle Haimanot on the road to Bahir Dar, Kuk Yelesh Mariam just north of Debre Berhan, and Gishen Mariam a

90

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

ways to the west of Wichale between Dessie and Weldiya.

The best Muslim pilgrimage is that of Sheikh Hussein, north of the Sof Omar Caves.

It centers on a mosque, tombs, and caves. Most of the inhabitants of the Bale and Arsi zones came to Islam as a direct result of the actions of this man from the 1200s.

Ethiopia is unique with its Julian-based calendar differing in dates of Christian holidays from the Gregorian calendar (Christmas, Easter, and Epiphany are the major ones). Therefore, in Ethiopia, some holidays can be celebrated twice, including New Year’s Day. The Finding of the True Cross (Mesqel) is uniquely celebrated in the nation. The Ethiopian Millennium was a big recap for most foreigners who may have missed their own millennial celebration, whether or not they were worried about the world ending

New Year (Enkutatash)

Ethiopian New Year’s Day, falling on September 11 in the Gregorian calendar (or September 12 the year before Gregorian leap year), marks the perfect season, when yellow daisies (adey abeba) start to blossom in the midst of the green countryside, after the long rains end. The sun comes out shyly as the rains subside, as if nature is celebrating the change of the year, as well. As with many Ethiopian traditions, New Year’s Day has a story of its own. The day is linked to the Queen of Sheba, her famous travel to Jerusalem, and what happened afterward. When she got back, her chiefs prepared her a homecoming celebration complete with jewelry for her fingers, saying, “’Enku le tatash,” which means, “A diamond for your fingers.” This was shortened to “Enkutatash.” On the eve, people light a bundle of sticks, called a chibo, and chant, “Eyoha abebaye Meskerem tebaye.” On the day of, little girls visit their neighbors singing “Abebayehosh,” while boys give colorful drawings.

Finding of the True Cross (Mesqel )

Mesqel, feels like a continuation of the celebration of Enkutatash, making September a month of festivities. Unlike Enkutatash, there is an outdoor celebration on a smallscale in everyone’s backyard as well as a grand damera celebration, which involves a Christmas tree-looking thing, made of dried sticks decorated by green adey abeba, by this time very abundant. This is accompanied by a parade of choirs from different churches, especially at Mesqel Square. The damera’s history is connected to Empress Helena, mother of Constantine the Great.

While searching for the original cross of Jesus, she prayed for a sign and got one from a smoking, upright bundle of sticks.

The direction that the last stick standing fell would be the direction where the true cross could be found. A piece of the true cross was then brought to Gishen Mariam Church in Wolo, Amhara Regional State, Ethiopia.

Therefore, in memory of Empress Helena, on theEve of September 27 (the actual day

91

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

the cross was found) people make their own damera and sing and chant around it. If in Addis Abeba, Mesqel Square is the place to be.

Christmas (Genna)

The Ethiopian Christmas celebration, falling on January 7 (or 8 during Gregorian leap year), is not as decorated as Mesqel or Timkat but still very significant. If in Lalibela around this time, the sight of priests, singing on the cliffs around Bet Giorgis is a one that will be embedded in any memory of Ethiopia. Although, there is no legend attached to its practice, Christmas brings the traditional game of field hockey (genna). In the past, everyone played the game together, as the one time when there was no class difference between masters and servants.

Epiphany (Timkat)

Timkat is a holiday that has the largest numbers in attendance, and most of its ceremony takes place outside church compounds. The eve of Timkat is the one time that the replicas of the Arks of the Covenant, which every Ethiopian Orthodox church must have, leaves their sanctuaries and find resting places outside, preferably near the water.

On that day, a mass sprinkling of holy water takes place before the crowd, after which the Arks return to their holy places with an amazing chanting, singing, and dancing of choirs as well as of the masses. Fasiladas’s Bath in Gondar is the best place to experience this awesome collaboration of people and the church, centered on the Ark. Timkat is also a time when young people often select their future spouses, during the dancing of Timkat. Unlike at other times, the girls take the lead by throwing a lime at the man they like. If the feeling is mutual, the guy will send elders to her house to ask for her hand in marriage, making the weeks after Timkat a time when many weddings take place.

Easter Fasika: After the great lent of two months, conducted in remembrance of the fasting, suffering, and crucifixion of Jesus, Easter is a time when Christians celebrate the resurrection of Jesus by singing sacred songs and chanting on the eve, during the midnight mass. It is also dominated by feasts of all of the great national foods eaten after the breaking of the fast.

Eid al Fetir: takes place after the holy month of Ramadan, when Muslims fast for

one month. This month is a time when there is a spirit of prayer and giving, and, after sunset, each day, the fast is broken together with family and friends. At the end of the month, on Eid al Fetir, Muslims carry out their prayers together, either in a mosque or in a larger space. Although Ramadan has no permanent date, as the Hijra calendar changes according to the moon cycles, if in Addis Abeba at the time, National Stadium is the place to be to see the great joint prayer and, afterward, the singing and prayer of

92

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

the people as they go back to their homes. The rest of the day is spent inviting people to holiday feasts.

Eid al Adha: An

equally important Muslim holiday is Eid al Adha or the Feast of the Sacrifice, which occurs in the 12th month of the Hijra calendar. Mosques are thronged for prayer, animals are sacrificed for the occasion, and the meat is shared equally between family members, neighbors, and the poor.

Sheik Hussien: Twice a year, Muslims travel to the shrine of the renowned

Sheik Hussein, near the Sof Omar Caves. Although the pilgrimage takes several days, people return home refreshed, with a renewal of their faith.

Ashenda: This is the most attractive cultural festival, which falls from August 21 to 23 every year. Little girls go around singing and dancing and surround each man they come to until he gives them some token money. Even a little money can get a man off the hook. Particularly, Ashenda is celebrated in Tigrai Regional State and especially in Sekota. Girls of these areas wear beautiful white cotton dresses with blue embroidered flowers, play drums, and sing to passersby for contributions.

Irecha: Once a year, the Oromo people celebrate Irecha around Lake Hora near De-

bre Zeit (Bishoftu). This takes place on the first Sunday after Mesqel, and the ceremony centers around sacred trees, particularly around ancient fig trees. Worshippers ask for favors, fertility, health, and good fortune.

Conference Tourism As the political capital of Africa, Addis Abeba has held many conferences over the decades. The hospitable culture, perfect weather, and tourist activities make it a convenient conference setting. Many new facilities have been added to the list of venues in addition to the old stalwarts. The United Nations Economic Commission for Africa (UNECA) is a longtime favorite for international forums, symposiums, lectures, and summits. The African Union has also long been used for such audiences, but they now have a brand new 52,000m2 building with a 2,500-seat auditorium and additional conference halls.

93

Adventure Tourism in Ethiopia

In the 1990s, the Hilton Addis Abeba Hotel’s conference halls were joined by those of the newly built Sheraton Addis. Since then, the Millennium Hall was added in 2007, and many other hotels have also added to the ranks of conference centers, such as the Radisson Blu Hotel and Harmony Hotel. While not as flashy, Ghion Hotel has also been used for such purposes for decades. Outside Addis Abeba, Haile Resort in Hawassa provides a large, modern venue in a beautiful setting. Closer to Addis Abeba, the Aba Geda Conference Hall is another new venue located 100km southeast of the metropolis in Nazareth (Adama), the capital of Oromia Regional State.

November 2014 was the Great Ethiopian Run 10km race’s 14th edition. The race’s first edition took place on Sunday 25th November 2001, as an experiment in mass-partici-

pation running in Ethiopia by the great runner of all times Athlete Haile Gebresilassie.

Today, as well as being Africa’s biggest for 40,000 participants, it has become a yearly event and one of the biggest days in Ethiopia’s sporting calendar.

Visit www.ethiopianrun.org or your tour operator for schedule to the excitement, exuberance, colour and noise which taken together makes Africa’s biggest race so special for home and international participants alike.

94

Addis Abeba

Addis Abeba------------------------------------------- 94 History/Establishment 94 Climate and Location 96 Sporting and Entertainment 96 Getting Around 97 Forex, ATMs and Communications 98

Addis Abeba Sights----------------------------------- 99 Old City Center 99 Old Shopping Center - Piazza (Arada) 105 Central Market - Mercato 107 Africa Avenue & Bole Medhane Alem Road 107 Arat Kilo and Sidist Kilo Area 110

Addis Abeba

History

History/Establishment

Addis Abeba

The establishment of Addis Abeba first came about when Emperor Menelik II moved his army encampment to the undulating hills of the Entoto Mountains in the late 19th century, some 127 years ago. The area was easy to defend and offered easy access to the rest of the country. The camp was initially wholly composed of tents until two churches, one in honor of the Holy Virgin and another dedicated to the Archangel Raguel eventually sprang up by 1887. These churches now serve as museums as well as being places of worship and hold manys relic from the period.

The mountains of Entoto, though strategic, did not afford much comfort or any other advantages. The terrain made logistics a nightmare and wood, water and food were scarce. The climb was exhausting for many and some war chiefs made camp a little lower from the main army where there were less frequent thunder storms. It was after the end of the rainy season in 1886 that Menelik and Empress Taitu, accompanied by their court made their way south to the hot springs of “Fil-Wiha” (hot water in Amharic), a natural spring which is still used as a wellness and bathing complex to this day.

After being enchanted with the beauty of the landscape and the relative luxury that the area afforded compared to the bleak and storm-frequented mountains, Taitu asked the emperor to grant her some land there on which to build and shortly after an impressive dwelling was erected for the empress. She decided to name the area Addis Abeba (new flower in Amharic) since she greatly admired the flowering Mimosa trees that covered the land. In 1887, Taitu left Entoto to settle in her new abode followed by chiefs and members of royalty who settled around her new house and it was from these humble beginnings that the city blossomed.

Addis has certainly come a long way from its modest, challenging beginnings. The rugged terrain was not easy to build roads or settlements on and the rainy season made travel within the city near impossible not to mention a chronic shortage of firewood that occurred thanks to land clearance for building and farming. A frustrated Menelik even considered moving the capital to Addis Alem in 1900 where he started to build a new palace but later abandoned it at the insistence of Taitu and western diplomats who had already begun to establish their embassies at the new capital and were not keen on packing up and moving on the Emperor’s every whim. This would-be palace was then converted into a church and stands today only an hour’s drive from Addis.

Fortunately the city’s firewood problem was resolved by a new breed of imported tree – the versatile eucalyptus tree or “Bahr Zaf ”in Amharic (literally meaning Sea-tree to denote that it is a foreign variety), which still makes up most of the tree cover of the city. The completion of the railway track that connected the country to the port of Djibouti was also a relief and a blessing. Construction boomed and some of the earliest yet well-built edifices in the country were erected including the cathedral of St. George (Giyorgis) in Piazza, the first bank the Bank of Abyssinia (1906), the first hotel in Addis

96

Addis Abeba

History

Etege Taitu Hotel (1907), the first modern school Menelik School (1908), and the first government hospital Menelik II Hospital (1910).

Even after Menelik passed away in 1913, the city and its inhabitants continued to flourish. Cafés and restaurants began to spring up to cater to foreign and local residents.

Schools, prisons and even a mosque were built but it was in the year 1930, the year of Emperor Haile Selassie’s coronation, that the city underwent considerable improvement and beautification. This was also the year that a symbolic mausoleum was erected behind what is now the Presidential Palace to house the bodies of Emperor Menelik, Empress Taitu and their daughter Zewditu. Princess Zewditu had, after her father died, commissioned the sculpting of a life-sized statue of Menelik astride his favorite horse, Aba Dagnew, to commemorate his triumph over the invading Italian forces at Adwa on March 1st, 1896. Cast in bronze by Hartel Spengler, a German architect, the masterpiece was unveiled on Haile Selassie’s coronation day which Zewditu did not live long enough to witness.

One of the most impressive architectural feats of the time was the Emperor’s palace in Sidist Kilo near Entoto which was completed in only eight months to be ready for Prince Gustave Adolph of Sweden who visited in 1935. Now housing Addis Abeba University and the Institute of Ethiopian Studies’ Ethnographic Museum, the former palace is a busy tourist attraction.

The Italian invasion in 1935 and the subsequent five year occupation was a time of great turmoil to the citizens of Addis and all of Ethiopia. To deny the invaders the capital, a group of Ethiopian nationalists adopted a scorched earth campaign and set fire to the city in May, 1936, destroying much of the commercial center. The Italians, having consolidated their forces in Addis Abeba, envisioned to transform the city into a modern metropolis capable of accommodating 200,000 Europeans and embarked on an ambitious building campaign, sectioning off entire neighborhoods for their exclusive use such as the Casa Popolari for Italian workers and Casa I.N.C.I.S (Istituto Nationale per le case degli Impiegati dello Stato) for Italian officials.

The occupation was, however, short lived and in 1941 following the entry of Mussolini into World War II and the subsequent destruction of his forces in East Africa by Britain, the government of Ethiopia was restored and the city’s Italian population repatriated. Many new structures were erected, among them the Monument to Martyrs at 6 kilo (1942) which commemorates the thousands slain by Italian soldiers over just three days of terror which they imposed in retaliation for an assassination attempt that almost killed Viceroy Graziani and wounded many others in February, 1937.

In the 50’s and 60’s, Addis Abeba underwent a major transformation into a modern day city. Some of its chaotic planning was addressed and several blocks of old dwellings were demolished to make way for new fine structures such as the Addis Abeba University’s Faculty of Science, the City hall (Mazegaja Bet) and the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa (the latter two designed by Italian architect Arturo Mezedimi, a close friend of the Emperor’s) and the Hilton Hotel whose pools are fed from the historic “Fil-Wiha” thermal spring.

97

Addis Abeba

History

Today, Addis Abeba has emerged from the strong foundation of its unique history spanning almost a century and a half to become a true metropolis of Africa playing host to major international conferences, events, peace seminars, festivals and expos not to mention being the seat of the African Union and several other nonprofit organizations. With the eminent completion of new roads, railways and entire business and residential districts in sight, Addis is set to become an even more influential and bustling capital of Africa.

Climate and Location

Situated in the heart of Ethiopia at an altitude ranging between 2500 meters above sea level at its lowest and southernmost point and 3000 meters above sea level at its northern and highest point at Entoto, Addis Abeba is the third highest city in the world after La Paz and Quito in Latin America. The surrounding mountains of Zuqualla, Erer, Furi, Wechecha and Menagesha keep the climate of the city mild & temperate throughout most of the year.

Summertime in Addis and throughout most of Ethiopia is actually the rainy season and it can be a little tricky. Don’t be fooled by a day that starts out as bright and sunny since heavy rain clouds will ultimately surface as the day wears on, so be sure to keep warm clothing at hand to avoid the prospect of an unattractive couple of days of flu. Some roads in more remote areas might get muddy in the rainy season so try and rent a four wheel drive vehicle if travelling through the country during the summer.

Sporting and Entertainment

If you want to keep in shape during your vacation in Addis, the city offers several world class gyms, swimming pools and hiking or biking trails. The best gyms are usually found at hotels although there are also several purely gym and spa establishments that are equally well-equipped such as the most famous Maxview Fitness (“Life Fitness”) in “Gerji” Bawa Center which is home to the most professional fitness trainers, “BoleRock” behind Edna mall or Akiko Body Wise gym located in the area commonly referred to as Sar Bet with massage therapists and lots of impressive facilities.

Are you more of an outdoors person? Then the surrounding hills and intersecting trails especially to the north and west of the city offer not only a pleasant hike or bike ride but also stunning views of the unique setting of Addis Abeba. There are also quite pleasant outdoor pools at the Ghion, Sheraton and Hilton hotels with the Hilton being the favorite of many owing to its cross shaped pool and surrounding Jacuzzis fed from the close by hot spring of the famous “Fil-Wiha”.

As far as entertainment goes, movies are increasingly becoming a favorite pastime.

More and more Amharic movies are subtitled in English these days so check out Alem Cinema or any other of your choice to get a feel for modern Ethiopian arts and culture.

You can also visit one of many theaters such as “HagerFikir” in Piazza or “Biherawi Theatre” near Mexico Square where popular plays are staged almost every day. To watch the latest blockbuster from Hollywood head over to Edna mall near Medhianalem Church.

A tour of the city’s several historic sites and museums either with a guide or on your own could also be entertaining and gratifying. The National Museum at Amist Kilo

98

Addis Abeba

History

houses many historical relics, costumes and prehistoric statues and skeletons including the 3.2 million year old australopiticus afarensis specimen Lucy, while the Ethnographic Museum which is right up the street in Sidist Kilo offers a more recent collection of paintings, weapons and handicraft. The Miniature Zoo housing the almost extinct black-mane lions which are endemic to Ethiopia is also at Sidist Kilo and is definitely worth a visit even though it has become rather dilapidated as of late.

There’s also bowling to be had in the city with the best one being in Laphto mall located in the area near Old Airport. Golfers can head over to the Golf Club around the same area to enjoy a game in the sun. The Hilton also sports a mini-golf course as well as a tennis court.

For those in the mood for more cultured entertainment, the international institutions Alliance Ethio-Française, the Italian Cultural Institution and the Goethe Institute are always hosting and organizing highly entertaining and inspirational performances and exhibitions on a wide variety of subjects. Head over to any one of their websites to find out what event suits you or subscribe to their weekly e-newsletters.

Getting Around

Traversing the huge landscape which is Addis Abeba can be a challenging if not daunting task for any tourist. The fact that streets usually have more than one name to go by can be a bit confusing at first but you can avoid hours of confusion by investing a little time on learning the official names of streets as well as their corresponding designations commonly used by locals. For example, the road leading directly away from the airport is identified as Africa Avenue on the maps but is usually referred to as Bolé road by taxi chauffeurs or local residents.

The most convenient way to get around the city is by small taxi cabs which are reasonably abundant throughout Addis. These cabs are usually colored blue and white but those at the airport are painted entirely in yellow and can take you anywhere in the city for as little as US $15.

If you are on a shoestring budget or just want to see how most locals get around, then head to Bolé bridge minibus station by the airport and hop into a minibus going in the right direction, be warned though, these public taxis stick to predefined routes along the main roads and you might have to walk or get another taxi to take you to your final

99

Addis Abeba

History

destination. But if you are headed somewhere which is conveniently placed along a major road or highway there is no reason not to spring for a cheap minibus that costs no more than 10 Birr (US $ 0.50) for the longest distances, just don’t forget to yell “Woraj Ala” when you want to get off.

Even though Addis Abeba is one of the safer cities in Africa; pickpockets, beggars and scam artists sometimes are an unfortunate reality that you might have to deal with during your stay. Compared to cities like Johannesburg or Nairobi, Addis Abeba is relatively crime free but beware of leaving your carryon in the car while you get off to look around outside.

You might also run into pickpockets who will try and stop you in the street with some excuse or another to try and worm their way into your pockets or snatch away your smart phone. Be wary of those who might approach you and perform some elaborate delay tactic, they could be distracting you while an accomplice cleans you out from the opposite side. Though cunning and inventive, pickpockets in Addis are neither persistent nor violent and they usually stay away if you travel in a group.

Beggars on the other hand might not be as easily put off especially if you are travelling in a group and giving one of them any money is sure to attract the unwanted attention of many others, firmly declare “Egzér Yistilin” which literally means “may God provide [for you]” in Amharic and move on. Another option, although it will still attract attention, is to buy cheap meal tickets to be found at Hope Enterprises opposite Haile Selassie Handicrafts on Churchill Avenue and hand them out to those whom you might consider to be really in need.

Forex, ATMs and Communications

Exchanging or drawing money from a credit card or ATM has never been easier in Addis. All major buildings house banks which change most foreign currencies to the Ethiopian Birr. One USD is being sold for around 20 Birr at the time of writing this guide although rates might vary daily.

ATMs can also be found at banks, malls and hotels which allow you to draw money from your international VISA or Master Card credit card but those at the main hotels are the ones which are guaranteed to be in service at all times.

The Commercial Bank of Ethiopia, the leading bank in Ethiopia with more than 830 branches all over Ethiopia and more than 52 ATMs in Addis Abeba only is an ideal place to use your VISA or Master Card for cash withdrawals. You can also use their Special ATMs for foreign currency conversion without physically going to the banks.

For more information about these special service ATM locations you can visit their website www.combanketh.et.

Internet connectivity is available wirelessly at most hotels, guesthouses and even restaurants for free as long as one is a paying customer. You can also drop into one of the many internet cafés that line the streets to connect on one of their desktop computers, just don’t forget to log out of your account at the end of the session.

100

Addis Abeba Sights

Old City Center

Addis Abeba Sights Old City Center La Gar (the endpoint of the railroad to Djibouti) – the former railway station

which was the center of import/export commerce for decades ever since its completion in 1929 remains a busy urban center to this day. It currently serves as a pseudomuseum where guided tours can be arranged to see some of the old locomotives that used to traverse the tracks from Addis to Djibouti or the imperial carriages used by the late Emperor Haile Selassie I.

National Theatre – has been a center for the Ethiopian arts and culture scene for several decades and remains a stronghold of the arts, especially theatrical performances, to this day. The theatre is easily recognized by the near 10 meter tall statue of the Lion of Judah that stands right outside of the premises. The black stone carved monument was erected in 1955 to commemorate the Silver Jubilee of Emperor Haile Selassie I. National Post Office Museum – containing antique postage stamps from all over the world, the museum also exhibits traditional equipment used by early Ethiopian postmen such as cleft sticks used by the couriers to hold letters above their heads.

Opened on August 19, 1975, the museum displays all of the Ethiopian stamps from 1884 to the present as well as stamps from the Universal Postal Union member countries.

National Library and Archives – Known as “Womezekir” locally, the National Library is a popular retreat for avid readers and is ideal for finding a wealth of written works on Ethiopia, the horn and all of Africa.

101

Addis Abeba Sights

102

Maps

Addis Abeba Sights

Maps

103

Old City Centre

National Theatre

Addis Abeba Sights

Souvenir shops on Churchill Avenue – Across the street from Black Lion Hospital, you can find dozens of shops lining the road selling various traditional handcraft pieces, jewelry and figurines. Some rare collectors’ items (e.g. ornate crosses) might require a special permit from the Authority for Research and Conservation of Cultural Heritage in order to pass through customs. You can easily obtain the permit by taking the item and a receipt to the Heritage Registration and Inspection Department of the Authority in Amist- Kilo (opposite Addis Abeba Institute of Technology) which is in the same compound with the National Museum. Churchill Avenue, previously the center of city, is only about one Kilometer long. It starts at the marvelous train station La Gar and stretches up to City Hall, where an obelisk-looking tower marks the end of the road. It also hosts the French school, Lycee Gebre Mariam.

Ambassador Theatre – More of an antique cinema than a theatre, the Ambassador

has been an entertainment hub of central Addis ever since it was built in the reign of Emperor Haile Selassie I. Amharic movies dominate the schedule but old English movies were available at certain hours of the day.

Fil-Wiha – many give credit to the infamous Fil-Wiha natural hot springs as being

the inspiration behind the founding of Addis Abeba. The waters are believed to have healing qualities and the bathing & wellness center at the Fil-Wiha is usually very busy with those seeking relief from muscle aches and strains.

The Finfiné hotel right next to Fil-Wiha is a preferred dining location for many

locals with the buffet being the main attraction. The hotel is actually an old two-storied villa built almost entirely out of wood which was converted into a restaurant during Emperor Haile Selassie I reign. Today the hotel has expanded to cover the entire grounds and is stocked full at lunchtime on every day of the week. The upper floor is reached by a twin staircase and is mostly reserved for weddings and other feasts.

St. George Art Gallery – widely recognized as one of the show pieces of Addis Abeba, this showroom and gallery is refreshing to behold and is conveniently located behind the Sheraton Addis. (for more see Arts & Crafts in the Shopping Section of this book) 104

Addis Abeba Sights

Old City Center

Sheraton Hotel – part of the international brand, The Luxury Collection Hotels and Resorts, the Sheraton Addis is the pride and joy of Addis, teeming with spectacular facilities and sublime gardens, the Sheraton seems to be slightly out of place in the city since one can easily imagine that they have left Africa for some more exotic destination while walking around the spacious grounds encircling the Hotel. The Sheraton is home to fine dining and desserts (Summerfield’s, Breezes, Stagioni, Les Arcade and Shaheen Restaurants) as well as night time entertainment venues (Stanley’s, The Office Bar, Lobby Bar, Baywatch Bar and Gaslight Club).

The Mausoleum of Emperor Menelik II (Bahta Mariam Church) – Bahta

Mariam Church, the final resting place of Emperor Menelik II, is located just up the hill from the Hilton hotel behind the Grand Palace. Security is tight so you might have to park your car (and your camera) a bit farther down the road but the beauty and grandeur of the stone structure which is the church and the impressive marble mausoleum are definitely worth it. To reach the tombs, one has to enter the basement of the church through a door in the floor so you might want to skip this descent if you tend to get claustrophobic. The inside of the crypt is dark and stuffy especially when compared with the spacious and elaborately adorned church and grounds. A large photograph of Menelik, who was the only African leader to successfully withstand and even repel European colonial forces, dominates the wall above his shrine while the finely carved marble tombs and corresponding portraits of other royal personages such as Menelik’s wife Empress Taitu, his daughter Empress Zewditu and Emperor Haile Selassie’s daughter, who died at young age of only 22.

Kidane Mihret – placed to the left of Bahta Mariam (Kiddist Mariam), it is a circular church with exquisite interior paintings and known for its sacred springs, which produce holy water used for baptism.

Holy Trinity Church (Kidus Selassie) – built in 1941 to commemorate the liberation of Ethiopia from occupying Italian forces, the Holy Trinity Church is one of the most attractive sights in Addis.

Adorned with figures of angels and gargoyles, the exterior of the church is very much reminiscent of gothic European style of building. The southern end of the cathedral is lined with the graves of patriots who died fighting the invaders, including those of British officers who also took part in expelling the fascists.

Inside, the opulently decorated walls and ceilings give an air of grandeur to the church, which many believe is the most important place of Christian worship in the country, rivaled only by the church of Axum Tsion, which purportedly houses the Ark of the Covenant.

105

Addis Abeba Sights

Old City Centre

The tombs of Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife Empress Menen, made out of solid granite and carved in the Axumite style, are also housed inside the church.

Hilton Hotel - This historic hotel, design inspired by the famous Lalibela Cross, constructed and opened during the reign of Emperor Haile Selassie I is located down the hill on Menelik II Avenue in a hub of international diplomacy, with proximity to the headquarters of the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa, Ethiopian Mapping Agency, Ministry of Foreign Affairs and close to many of the city’s popular attractions, including the Holy Trinity Church.

Africa Park – located on the steep hill directly in front of the Hilton and the UNECA building in Kirkos locality, the Africa park covers an area of 45,703 square meters and is the most well-maintained public park in the city appropriate for kicking back with a book in the fresh air or to take the kids out to play on the swings and slides set up all over the park.

Kasanchis – A major cultural nighttime entertainment hub, Kasanchis (originally

Casa I.N.C.I.S – Istituto Nationale per le case degli Impiegatidello Stato) was built for colonial officials during the Italian occupation of 1935-1940. Walking the streets of the town is like taking a stroll back through time since the old buildings erected at the time of occupation are largely untouched. Today Kasanchis is lined with traditional Azmari bets (see nightlife) and modern bars and restaurants plus a brand new high-end hotel district hosting several towering hospitality establishments such as the exquisite Radisson Blu.

Ghion Hotel – home to exotic bird species such as the Tacazze sunbird, the olive

thrush, Reichenow’s weaver, speckled mousebird and many more, the lush gardens of the Ghion Hotel, located across from the national stadium, are guaranteed to refresh your mind and are a bird watchers’ paradise. The hotel also hosts an Olympic size swimming pool and many other facilities including four restaurants and a nightclub although, according to some reviews, the service could be better and the rooms are average if not straight out dilapidated.

The permanent exhibition of the former Ethiopian Tourism Commission – this tourist office is situated on the northern side of Mesqel Square, an important

landmark. It is mainly composed of recreations of famous architectural tourist attractions of Ethiopia, starting from prehistoric caves it moves on to depict a room of an Axumite palace, a portion of a Lalibela church, a Gondar castle and a Harar household.

The exhibition is designed to give visitors a taste of what to expect when travelling throughout the country.

106

Addis Abeba Sights

Old City Center

Mesqel Square- located in the middle of the southward migrating geographical center of the city , Mesqel Square routes traffic from the many different parts of the city and the new railway line coming from the south western part of the city intersects with the southern (Debrezeit Road) and eastern (CMC, Megenagna Road) part of the city railway line. The large medieval-looking wall that dominates the eastern entrances to the square is unique. Residents can be seen exercising by running the steps of the huge dirt

and concrete amphitheater in the morning and late afternoon especially in summer.

The square is overwhelming in size. There are at least 16 lanes of traffic that converge from 6 two-way streets. Big events in the city also take place here including the annual Great Ethiopian Run, which usually sets its start and finish line in the square, and the city’s Mesqel Celebration (September 27).

Addis Abeba Museum – Established in October 1986 on the centenary of the foundation of Addis Abeba, the Addis Abeba Museum is housed in one of the oldest buildings in Addis which sits right next to Mesqel Square. The architecture of the building itself is a relic in its own right and all the exhibits inside, including impressive photos of Addis Abeba’s early days, are just the icing on the cake. The Red Terror Martyr’s Memorial Museum, which was opened in 2010, is located right next door to the Addis Abeba Museum and hosts chilling reminders of the red terror campaign carried out by Colonel Mengistu and his Derg regime, including shocking photos, skulls unearthed from mass graves and torture instruments.

Old Shopping Center - Piazza (Arada) Mega Theatre – located just up the steep hill on Churchill Avenue immediately after the roundabout and also known as Satan Bet (house of Satan), the Mega Amphitheatre is housed in a rectangular double-storied stone building originally dubbed The Club de l’Union, an old cinema, nightclub and casino which earned its cognomen from conservative Ethiopians who thought that such forms of entertainment were outright blasphemous.

107

Addis Abeba Sights

Piazza

Tomoca – a very established and well-known coffee house near the Catholic Cathedral immediately west of Churchill Avenue. Further left of the Churchill Avenue Catholic Nativity Church and Book World are found.

Saint George (Kidus Giorgis) Cathedral and Museum– founded by Emperor

Menelik in 1896 to commemorate his victory over invading Italians at the Battle of Adwa, St. George’s was rebuilt in 1920 by Emperor Haile Selassie I. The church is an important landmark in Addis and its interior decorations, especially the paintings by renowned Master Artist Afework Tekle, are nothing short of masterpieces.

Displaying permanent as well as seasonal exhibits including crowns, crosses, religious scrolls and all other sorts of ecclesiastic paraphernalia which reflect the rich heritage and unique qualities of the land as well as of the Ethiopian Orthodox church, the museum inside the grounds of St. George is truly a refuge for the cultured.

Taitu Hotel (JazzAmba) – situated just south of De Gaulle Square, the Taitu Hotel

is the first ever hotel to be opened in Addis and it still retains its early shape and façade from those early days although the interiors have been revamped to give it a more modern feel. The hotel compound is right in the middle of the busiest part of Piazza which comes alive at night with neon lights and strolling pedestrians. Jazz Amba, is a high end, cozy lounge inside the Taitu Hotel which hosts live musical performances on most days of the week. With its loud but unobtrusive acoustics, the Jazz Amba is a smoke-free for music lovers of all ages.

Enrico’s – has long been the favored destination to indulge cravings for wonderful pastry. The Italian restaurant Pizza di Napoli is right next door to this café and pastry if you would like to have something a little more solid before dessert.

108

Addis Abeba Sights

Mercato

Old post office - a visit to Piazza would not be complete without seeing the old building of the national post office. Stepping into this old building, reminiscent of is like taking a trip back in time.

Wutma Hotel– A favorite with backpackers staying in the capital, the Wutma is a

small but long established hotel located on a quiet street in Piazza. The rates and food are relatively inexpensive and the staff are friendly and experienced in dealing with budget travelers. The fact that the hotel provides secure lockers to leave luggage in during the day is also a plus.

Central Market - Mercato To the left of Churchill Avenue as you make your way up, occupying almost the entire north-western part of the city, lies the largest open market in Africa, Mercato. Dominated by the high-rising minarets of the grand Anwar Mosque, the largest in the city, Mercato has long been the heart of Ethiopian commerce.

If you don’t know exactly where to go, finding what you need in Mercato can be a bit of a challenge. Navigating through the narrow roads choked full of shoppers, cars and buses that are constantly jostling around is more than just an inconvenience, it also poses a real risk of being robbed by pickpockets who are ever present in the area.

Mercato is divided into different sectors (tera’s in Amharic) based on the specialty of the shops and stalls. For example, if one is in the market for electronics, they go to Dubai Tera by the Grand Anwar Mosque.

Africa Avenue and Bole Medhane Alem Road This avenue is the start of the city’s main commercial shopping district, with plenty of cafes, restaurants, and shopping malls, one after another, with its final destination being Bole International Airport.

From the overpass right before the Bole International Airport, Bole Medhane Alem Road leads a more truly northerly direction, nearly paralleling

109

Addis Abeba Sights

Africa Avenue, Bole Medhanealem

Avenue, is just to the east. It has the same flavor as the avenue, with the addition of the biggest modern church in Addis Abeba and the country.

Dembel City Center– the centerpiece of the Showa Dabo area, Dembel City Center

is a spacious, one stop shopping mall stocked full of every conceivable item you might need. Furniture, sports and casual wear, electronics and fine jewelry, including diamonds (Yiheyis Dejene, 1st floor), are just some of the things up for sale at Dembel.

Breakfast favorite known for its exquisite croissants, La Parisienne is also located near the city center.

DH Geda Mall – located further down the avenue passing Wolo Sefer along Ethio – China Freindship Road and Hibir Traditional Restaurant famous for its architectural interiors and live traditional music. It is a modern shopping mall housing different shops and a restaurant, Mamma’s Kitchen. Kaldi’s Coffee Shop is also located on the ground floor of the mall. It is the first ever well branded coffee shop chain famous for its macchiato which is found almost in every part of the city.

Medhane Alem Church – is a modern day architectural marvel and one of the biggest churches in Africa whose mosaics, domes and arches rival European centers of worship in their masterful design. Religious holidays, when the faithful flock by the hundreds to the church, are the best times to visit Medhane Alem Church, especially if you are a Christian looking for a little bit of benediction.

Mafi Mall- a modern mall with escalator where one can find travel agency, sports-

wear shops, kids shops, restaurant and other shops. It is located right opposite to Medhane Alem Church.

Edna Mall (Matti Multiplex) – Home to the first ever modern western cinema,

Edna Mall is the only choice to see the latest release straight from the American Box Office as well as the best that local cinema has to offer. The building is located right across the street from Medhane Alem Church and also houses a large indoor kids gaming center, Bongos, which has everything from arcades and games to 7D simulators.

Medhane Alem Mall – is right across the street from the main gate of the church

and opposite Edna Mall. It is one of the newer and more modern malls to be opened in the city with plenty of space and luster. It also houses My Burger, one of (if not) the best fast food joints in town.

Hotel and mall district behind Edna Mall – the street leading away from Bole

Medhane Alem towards Bole road (Africa Avenue) is fast becoming a modern hospitality quarter for the city. Major local hotel brands which are expanding throughout the country thanks to favorable government regulations have curbed the shortage of accommodation and entertainment venues in the country.

Megenagna – Literally meaning meeting place in Amharic, Megenagna is a very important shopping and dining area as well as being the gateway to Addis Abeba’s sprawling eastern suburbs. The hills that loom over Megenagna are an excellent place to enjoy a spectacular view of the city. At the time of writing there is major construction in the 110

Addis Abeba Sights

Map

111

Addis Abeba Sights

Arat kilo

area for the new Addis Abeba Light Rail project and some roads are closed but the construction is in its final stages so Megenagna will soon be an even more attractive location to visit. Zefmesh Grand Mall is another huge new shopping mall where you would find world class shops, restaurant, coffee shop and a cinema to come soon.

Arat kilo and Sidist Kilo area Addis Abeba University’s various campuses, two of Ethiopia’s best museums, Menelik High School (the country’s first modern school), the first state printing press are located in this area. As their Amharic names suggest these two traffic roundabouts are situated about 4km and 6km respectively from around Piazza area. From Piazza you will first find the roundabout of Arat Kilo with a monument which commemorates the return of Haileselassie from exile in 1941. Patriots’ day (May 5) main celebration is held here every year in the morning.

Natural History Museum- houses comprehensive selection of wildlife species. It is located in Arat Kilo inside Addis abeba University Faculty of Science.

National Museum – the national museum is located in the premises of the old house

of Prince Mekonen, son of Emperor Haile Sellasie I about half way between Arat Kilo and Sidist Kilo. The centerpiece of the impressive collection of the museum is undoubtedly the 3.2 million year old australopithecine fossil Lucy (locally dubbed Dinkinesh

meaning “you are amazing” in Amharic) who was recently returned to Ethiopia after a lengthy tour abroad. The exhibit is complemented by newly installed large television screens which give visitors further information on the different fossils of early human ancestors discovered in Ethiopia.

112

Addis Abeba Sights

Sidist Kilo

Archeological finds which date back all the way to the pre-Axumite era are also to be found inside the museum with the seated-woman sculpture being the most noteworthy but the stone carvings of ancient South-Arabian scripts are also impressive. The museum also holds other archeological marvels such as old lamps, coins and vases from the Axumite period.

Thrones, crowns and weapons of famous Kings and Emperors such as Menelik II, Yohannes and Tewodros adorn the rest of the ground floor while the upper levels are dominated by cultural artefacts such as musical instruments, famous paintings, household and farming utensils as well as handcraft pieces which provide tourists with insight into the nature of the Ethiopian lifestyle and tradition. After a worthwhile visit before heading up towards Sidist Kilo you can have a drink or a delicious meal for lunch at Lucy’s within the National Museum’s compound. They recently have opened a traditional restaurant with live music which you can wind up during the night.

Ethnological Museum – set within the former palace of Emperor Haile Selassie now serves as the main Administration center for Addis Abeba University the area commonly called as Sidist Kilo, the Ethnological (sometimes called the Ethnographic) Museum is part of the Institute of Ethiopian Studies. Many have described the museum as one of the best in Africa since what it lacks in artifacts makes up for it being original.

Rather than sticking to clichéd geographic or ethnic layouts,the exhibit starts with the theme “childhood” by the entrance revolving around birth, games and tales eventually moving into “adulthood” which deals with more serious issues concerning culture, war, religion and nomadism. Finally the topic turns to “death and beyond”, outlining burial structures and customs, tombs and stelae. The museum is a refreshingly innovative way to explore Ethiopian culture and is definitely worth visiting.

Washa Michael at Kebena – The Washa Michael (cave of Michael) rock-hewn

church is a historic church built in the late 3rd century AD in the reign of Emperor Abreha making it more than 1600 years old. To say that the church has seen better days would be an understatement.The roof has caved in due to Italian bombardment against freedom fighters in 1935 yet most of its walls and arches, including those of the holy of holies or Mekdes in Amharic still remain standing. It would normally be impossible to enter this inner sanctum at any other church, but the Tabot, the symbol of consecration in an Ethiopian Orthodox Church, has long been removed to another church, Yeka Michael just down the road, by the decree of Emperor Menelik in 1867. It would be advisable to visit the site by a 4X4 or to take a guide with you from town in order to avoid being mugged along the road up. To get to the church take a Kebena, Megenagna taxi from Arat Kilo, get off at Shola market past the British Embassy and take the uphill behind the embassy side with Yeka park on your right.

113

Accommodation

Accommodation Ethiopians are known to be the most hospitable people to visitors. At one time even the concept of a hotel was virtually unknown since it was customary for all travelers to simply knock on any homestead at the end of the day and announce themselves as a guest of God (Yegzer Engida) upon which occasion they would be treated to warm food, shelter for the night and be as welcome a long lost family member. Even though hotels started to spring up after 1907 when Taitu Hotel was opened, the people still retained their generous and friendly disposition towards visitors as part of their vibrant culture.

Today, Addis Abeba and all other major tourist destinations can boast of having hospitality facilities that rival some of the best in the world and which cater to every need or budget.For quite some time in the past the hospitality industry was mostly dominated by government run establishments such as the Ghion, Wabe Shebelle and Ras Hotels except for few exceptions such as the Hilton and more recently the Sheraton but nowadays private owned hotels, lodges and resorts can be found everywhere be it in the highland tourist circuits, on serene lakeside shores or urban city centers.

120

The unprecedented hospitality boom in the country, partly fueled by the fact that Addis Abeba is and has always been the political heart of Africa that hosts many international events and conferences and also because there are more and more tourists that come to enjoy the many attractions the country has to offer, has had a profound and positive effect in raising the bar for service and accommodation standards by nurturing competition among the many hotels and guesthouses which all aim to be better than their rivals.

In the past couple of years, hotels, especially those in Addis Abeba, have witnessed a significant quality increase in design, comfort and service. Leading this hospitality revolution are new and impressive establishments such as The Residence Hotel whose eyepopping, luxurious interior design rivals those of five star hotels in the western world.

Addis isn’t the only city in Ethiopia that has seen a rise both in number and quality of accommodation services but other smaller cities and rural areas as well where you can enjoy the relative peace of the undisturbed wilderness in eco-lodges built in a way which resembles the dwellings of locals in the area but with modern comforts such as nice bathrooms, electricity or even wireless internet.

Our accommodations section includes some of the best hotels the country has to offer, from boutique hotels with an intimate, cozy setting to large and glamorous hotels teeming with every modern amenity and entertainment services.

The accommodation section is arranged in a manner to easily visualize and choose accordingly as per the amenities, location, price and type. We encourage you to go through all of the establishments.

121

Addis abeba

Hotels

122

Addis abeba

Hotels

123

Addis abeba

Hotels

124

Addis abeba

Hotels

125

Addis abeba

Hotels

126

Addis abeba

Hotels

127

Addis abeba

Hotels

128

Addis abeba

Hotels

129

Addis abeba

Hotels

130

Addis abeba

Hotels

131

Addis abeba

Hotels

132

Addis abeba

Hotels

133

Addis abeba

Hotels

134

Addis abeba

Hotels

135

Addis abeba

Hotels

136

Addis abeba

Hotels

137

Addis abeba

Hotels

138

Addis abeba

Hotels

Hotels in Addis Abeba

Axum Hotel Tel: +251 116613916 3 days International Hotel Email: axum.d@ethionet.et Tel : +251 116612583/+251911205213 Email: info@3daysinternationalhoctel.com Location: Haile Gebresilassie Road, 22 Location: Near Zerihun building to Atlas Ayma International Hotel Tel: +251 116604265/66 Aclana Lodge Email: aymaint@ethionet.et Tel : +251 116184065/+251 911628844 Location: CMC Email: aclanalodge@gmail.com Beer Garden Inn info@aclanalodge.com Location: Bole highschool to Getahun besha Tel: +251 116182591/95 Email: info@beergardeninn.com Addis View Hotel Location: Bole Medanealem Tel :+251 111249766/67 Belle_Vue Hotel & Spa Mob.: +251 911541721) Tel: +251 11 667 6700/01/02/03 Email: addisview@ethionet.et Location: On the road from Arat Killo to Email: tareqbrn@yahoo.com Location: Megenagna British Embassy Beshale Hotel Addis Regency Hotel Tel: +251 116478181-85 Tel: +251 111550000/30/31/45 Email: beshalehotel@ethionet.et Email: info@addisregency.com Location:Gurd Shola Location: Giorgis to Afncho Ber, Near Bole Ambasador Hotel Addis Abeba Restaurant Tel: +251 116188284/81 Adot Tina Hotel Email: reservation@boleambassadorhotel.com Tel: +251 114673939 Location:Bole , near Millenium hall Email: adottinah@ethionet.et Bole International Hotel Location: Mesqel Flower Tel: +251 116633840/44 Ararat Hotel Email: boleinternationalhotel@ethionet.et Tel:+251 116461166 Location: Near Brass Hospital Email: ararat_hotel@ethionet.et Bole Rock Location: Kotebe Road, Ararat Tel: +251 116188171/73/74 Archi Hotel Email: bolerock@yahoo.com Tel:+251 116466959 Location: Bole Medanealem Email: reservation@archihotel.com Broadway Hotel Location: Gurd Shola Tel: +251 116263791/92 Astara Hotel Email: broadwayhotelaa@gmail.com Tel: +251 114670152 Location: Bole Michael Location: Riche, Meshuwalekia Capital Hotel and Spa Atlas International Hotel Tel:+25111 667 2100 Tel:+251 116187432/0116612115 Emai:info@capitalhotelandspa.com Email: atlashotel@ethionet.et Location: Hiale Gebresilassie Avenue Location: Atlas Ceasars Court Hotel Awraris Hotel Tel:+ 251 116189600 Tel: + 251 116614933 Email: ceasars@ethionet.et Email: awurarishotel@ethionet.et Location: Off Bole Road, behind DH Location: 22 Geda Tower

139

Addis abeba

Hotels

Central Showa Hotel Tel: +251 116611454/615001 Email: centralh@ethionet.et Location: Lem Hotel Churchill Hotel Tel: +251 111111212/+251 111568648 Email: churchillhotel@ethionet.et Location: Near Tewodros Square Classic Hotel Tel: +251 116613598 Location: 22 Zerihun Building Corta International Hotel Tel: +251 115538602 Email: roc40@yahoo.com Location: Olympia-to Bambis, near WFP Crown Hotel Tel:+251 114391430/31/32/44/45/46 Email: crownhotel@ethionet.et Location: Debrezeit Road, Kaliti D’ afrique Hotel Tel: +251 115517385 Email: diafrique@ethionet.et Location: Mexico Damu Hotel Tel: +251 115509828/29/35 Email: damuhotel@ethionet.et Location: Near Peacock Restaurant Debre Damo Hotel Tel:+251 116612630 Email: debredamo@ethionet.et Location: Haile Gebresilassie Avenue Desalegn Hotel No. 2 Tel: +251 116624524 Email: desalegnhotel@ethionet.et Location: Opposite EU Desalegn Hotel No. 3 Tel: + 251 116183030 Email: desalegnhotel@ethionet.et Location: Off Bole Road from Saay Pastry Destiny Addis Hotel Tel: +251 115521795 Email: reservation@destinyaddis.com Location: Olympia Dimetri Hotel Tel: +251 116453307/+251 116453298

140

Dreamliner Hotel Tel: +251 114 674000 Email: dreamlinerhotel@ethionet.et Location: Olympia-Mesqel Flower Road Edna Addis Hotel Tel: +251 115507003/+251 115507727 Email: reservation@ednaaddis.com Location: Aware, 100m off the square of Adwa Road Embilta Hotel Tel: +251 112758787 Email: embiltahotel@yahoo.com Location: Enkulal Fabrica Empire Addis International Hotel Tel: +251 116614524/25/26 Email: info@empireaddis.com Location: Bole, near Millennium Hall Ethiopia Hotel Tel: +251 115517400 Email: ethhotel@ethionet.et Location: across from National Theater Extreme Hotel Tel: +251 111553777 Email: extremehotel@ethionet.et Location: near Tewodros Square Faro Boutique Hotel Tel: +251 116621186 Email: farohotel@rocketmail.com Finfine Hotel Tel: +251 5519100 Location: Filweha Game Hotel Tel: +251 114421766 Email: gamehotel@ethionet.et Location: Saris, around Kadisco Paint Factory GG Royal Hotel Tel: +251 116292329 Email: ggroyalhotel@ethionet.et Location: Gerji Ghion Hotel Tel: +251 115513222 Email: Ghion@ethionet.et Location: Stadium

Addis abeba

Hotels

Global Hotel Tel: +251 114664766 Email: globalhotel@ethionet.et Location: Beklo Bet Giovanni Hotel Tel: +251 116187480 Email: giovanni_hotel@ethionet.et Location: 22, near Duty-free Shop Haile Hotel Tel: +151 111568154, +251 111657565 Email: hotelhaile@gmail.com Location: Somali Terra, near Kalifa Bldg.

Harambe Hotel Tel: +251 115514000 Location:Ambassador Harmony Hotel Tel: +251 116183100 Email: info@harmonyhotelethiopia.com Location Bole Medanealem, near Edna Mall Hilton Hotel Tel: +251 115518400 Email: hiltonaddis@ethionet.et Location: Kazanchis Holiday Hotel Tel: +251 116612081 Email:holidayhotel@ethionet.et Location: Haile Gebresillassie Avenu Hotel Concord Tel: +251 114654959 Email: hotelconcorde@ethionet.et Location: Beklo Bet Hotel De France Tel: +251 115547389 Email: hotelfranceaa@gmail.com Location: Behind AU, around St. Michael Church Hotel De Leopol International Tel: +251 115507777 Email: hoteldeleopol@ethionet.et Location: Near Bambis Supermarket Hotel Siyonat Tel: +251 116626372 Email: reservation@hotelsiyonat.com Location: On the road from Edna Mall to Bole road

Ibex Hotel Tel: +251 114654400 Email: ibex.hp@ethionet.et Location: Wollo Sefer Intercontinental Hotel Tel: +251 115505066 Email: reservation@intercontinentaladdis.com Location: Kazanchis Jerusalem Hotel Tel: +251 111551712/0911219508 Location: Near St. Yohannes Church Jupiter International Hotel No. 1 Tel: +251 116616969 Email: info@jupiterinternationalhotel.com Location: Bole, behind Friendship City Center Jupiter International Hotel No. 2 Tel: +251 115527373 Email: info@jupiterinternationalhotel.com Location: Kazanchis Kaleb Hotel Tel: +251 116622200 Email: reservations@kalebhotel.com Location: Bole Medanealem King’s Hotel Tel: +251 113711300/116535561 Email: kingshotel@ethionet.et Location: Sarbet KZ Hotel Tel: +251 116621677/81 Email: kzfamilyplc@ethionet.et Location: Bole Road, Next to Novis Supermarket Lalibela Hotel Tel: +251 116614917 Email: hotelalibela@yahoo.com Location: Bole, Opposite Airport Meridian Hotel Tel: +251 116615050 Email: meridian-hotel@ethionet.et Location: Bole Road, Next to Novis Supermarket Mesqel Flower Hotel Tel: +251 114670125/26, 114667143 Email: Mesqelflowerhotel@gmail.com Location: Mesqel Flower

141

Addis abeba

Hotels

Mimosa Hotel Tel:+251116616690 Email: mimosahotel@ethionet.et Location: Mickeyleland Road MN International Hotel Tel: +251 116333435 Email: mnihe@yahoo.com Location: Haile Gebresilassie Avenue Monarch Hotel Tel: +251 11 667 2480/82/72 Email: info@monarchaddis.com Location: Cameroon Street near Edna Mall Motera Hotel Tel: +251 112754633 E-mail: moterahotel@ethionet.et Location: Pasteur, near St. Paul Church Nati Hotel Tel: +251 116263822/23/24 Email: info@natihotel.com Locaton: From Bole Michael Round about to Rwanda road National Hotel Tel:+251 115515166/+251 115513768 Location:Near Mesqel Square, Nexus Hotel Tel:+251 11 667 0067 Email: Info@nexusaddis.com Location: Gerji Mebrathile Pacific Hotel Tel:+251 11 6456371, +251,913960695/97 Email: reservation@pacifichotelet.com Location: Lamberet Dessie Road in front of Africa Printing Panorama Hotel Tel: +251 116616070 Email: panoramahotel@ethionet.et Location: Haile Gebresilassie Road, Near Megenagna Paramount Hotel Tel: +251 114390417/0911686970 Location kaliti Plaza Hotel Tel: +251 116612200 Email: plazahotel@ethionet.et Location: Haile Gebresilassie Road, Near Urael

142

Queen of Sheba Hotel Tel: +251 116180000 E-mail: queenofshebahotel@ethionet.et Location: Haile G/Silassie Av., Opposite Bulgaria Embassy Radisson Blu Hotel Tel: +251 115157600 /+251 921467697 Email: info.addisababa@radissonblu.com Location:Kazanchis Ras Amba Hotel Tel: +251 111228080 E-mail: rahot@ethionet.et Location: Kebena, Arat Killo Road Ras Hotel Tel: +251 115517060 Email: rashotel@ethionet.et Location:Biherawi Reliance Hotel Apartment Tel: +251 11 667 2024 Email: info@reliancehotelapartment.com Location: Nearby Millenium Hall Riviera International Hotel Tel: +251 114197750/51/52/53/55 Email: reservations@rivieraaddis.com Location:Mekanissa Lebu Sadula Lodge Tel:+251 116188519/87/89 Email: contact@sadulalodge.com Location:Bole, behind Alem Cinema Semien Hotel Tel: +251 111550067 Email: semienhotel@ethionet.et Location: Semien Hotel SGS Hotel Tel: +251 115550128/29/30 Email: sgshotel@hotmail.com Location: Addisu Gebeya Sheraton Addis Tel: +251 115171717 Email: reservationsaddisethiopia@luxurycollection.com Location: Arat killo, Keble 16 Taitu Street Sidama Lodge Tel: +251 116187946 Location: Off Bole Road, Rwanda to Atlas

Addis abeba

Hotels

Soramba Hotel Tel: +251 111565633 Email: sorambahotel@ethionet.et Location: Along Belay Zeleke Road, Near Minelik Square Solo Te Hotel Tel: +251 11 667 0021 Email: Info@solotehotel.com Location: Cmc Road SRI SAI Hotel Tel: +251 115529120/4032/3695 Email: srisai@ethionet.et Location: Olympia Stay Easy Hotel Tel: +215911619558/0910698895 Location : 22 Taitu Hotel Tel: +251 111553244 Location: Piazza TDS Hotel Tel: +251 116635813/16/17/19 Email: tdshotel@ethionet.et Location: Bole Medihanealem The-Arck Hotel Tel: +251 11 618 1600 Email: contact@the-arckhotel.com Location: Around Emperial The Lion’s Den Hotel Tel: +251 115547734/35/36/40 Email: addis@thelionsdenhotel.com Location: In front of Greek Club The Residence Hotel Tel: +251 11 557 1075 Email: Info@theresidenceaddis.com Location: Africa Avenue Olympia Tiga Hotel Tel: +251 116188845/51 Email: info@tigahotel.com Location: Bole, on the road opposite to Millenium hall Top 10 Hotel Tel: +251 116464449/0116464449 Email: toptenhotel@yahoo.com Location: On the way to CMC, Gurd

Tsion Hotel Tel: +251 111272800 Mob.: +251 10912037894 Umma Hotel Tel: +251 113200164 Email: request@ummahotels.com Location: Old Airport Veronica Hotel Tel: +251 116632471/+251116189695 Location: Haya Hulet Wabi Shebelle Hotel Tel: +251 115517187 Email: washo.et@ethionet.et Location: Mexico Wassamar Hotel Tel: +251 116610055, 114421766 Location: Bole Road, near Japan Embassy E-mail: info@wassamarhotel.com Yetam Hotel Tel: +251 114667641/25 Location: Olympia to Mesqel Flower, in front of Arsho Lab. YGF Hotel Tel: +251 116622245 Location: Bole, opposite ring road Yoly Addis Hotel Tel: +251 116632828, 0116626440 Email: yolyaddishotel@ethionet.et Location: Mikey Leyland Street Yordanos Hotel Tel: +251 115515711/+251115512470 Location: Haile Gebresilasse Avenue, near Ministry of Justice Zeist Lodge Tel: +251 11 626 2639 Email: amy@zeistlodge.com

143

Addis abeba

Guesthouses

144

Addis abeba

Guesthouses

145

Addis abeba

Guesthouses

146

Addis abeba

Guesthouses

147

Addis abeba

Guesthouses

148

Addis abeba

Guesthouses

149

Addis abeba

Guesthouses

Luxury Hotel Apartment

Alexandria Luxury Hotel Apartment Tel: +251 911516052 Email: jbeuneh@yahoo.com Location: Rwanda, off Bole Road towards EU Baks Hotel Apartment Tel: +251 116296000, +251 116295940 Email: bakshotel@yahoo.com Location:Gerji Emmad Furnished Apartment Tel: +251 116294129 Email: emmad.furnished@ethione.et Location: near Bob Marley Square, Gerji road Diplomat Furnished Apartment Tel: +251 113729550/51/52 Location: near Sar Bet Tele Haimi Apartment Hotel Tel: +251 116513113 Location:Bole Medhane Alem Molla Apartment Hotel Tel: +251 116 189824 Location: Around Atlas

150

Reliance Hotel Apartment Tel: +251 11 667 2024 Email: info@reliancehotelapartment.com Location: Nearby Millenium Hall

Guesthouses in Addis Abeba

Ababa’s Villa Tel: +251 111140035/0911430641 Email: eyogedlu@yahoo.com Location:France Abem Guesthouse Tel: +251 911009367, +251924133029 Location:Olympia, near Adot Tina Hotel Addis Guesthouse Tel:+251 116189491, +251 116630580 Email: addis_guest_house@yahoo.com Location: near Bole High School towards 22 Adey Lodging Tel: +251 116635170 Email: adeylodging@gmail.com Location:Rwanda Street, inside Riverside Community

Addis abeba

Guesthouses

Afarensis Guesthouse Tel: +251 116629700/01 Email: info@afarensisguesthouse.com Location: Megenagna Afro Land Lodge Tel: +251 114669228, +251 911659023 Email: manager@afrolandlodge.com Location:Olympia, Mesqel Flower Agerbet Guesthouse Tel: +251 116614168 Location: off Bole Road from Wassamar Hotel AGGE P.L.C. Tel: +251 116638484/+251 911609251 Email: aggeg.house@ethionet.et Location: Bole Rwanda Altitude Guesthouse Tel: +251912933755 Location: Bole Rwanda, after Biomedical College Amanya Guesthouse Tel: +251 116450138 Email: amanaya@ethionet.et Location: Gerji

Amared Guesthouse Tel: +251 114668776 Location: Mesqel Flower Aziza Guesthouse Tel: +251 912001597/0913404768 Email: contactus@agerbethotel.com Location: Bole, Opposite Brass Hospital Beimnet Guesthouse Tel: +251 911374597 Location: Haile G/Silassie av. behind Plaza Bole Guesthouse Tel: +251 116634597/+251 920743454 Email: boleguesthouse@yahoo.com Location: Near Atlas Hotel Bruk Bed and Breakfast Tel: +251 11611997/+251 911486340 Email: bbbreakfast@gmail.com Location: Bole Chillalo Guesthouse Tel:+251 921319622/+251 911828985 Email: info@chillaloguesthouse.com Location: Beklo Bet, Opposite Mekwor Plaza

151

Addis abeba

Guesthouses

City Guesthouse Tel: +251 116180862 E-mail: cityethiopia@yahoo.com Location: Bole Medhanealem, Enat bldg.

Dalol Guesthouse Tel:+251 911658557 Email: dalolguesthouse@yahoo.com Location: 22, near St. George Hospital Dayonz Guesthouse Tel: +251 11 618 1937 Email: yonas.eku@gmail.com Location: Bole, Mikililand Dream Palace Guesthouse Tel :+251 116637259/+251 911679596 Location: Haile G/Sillasie Av. Behind Email: dreampalaceguesthouse@yahoo.com Ebenezer Guesthouse Tel: +251 111231155/+251 910587666 Location: Abuware, Near British Embassy Edsonatra Guesthouse Tel: +251 115546977 Location:Wollo Sefer, near Rodeo Addis

152

EKKO Guesthouse Tel: +251 115528720, +251920678588 Location:Abuware, near the roundabout Ethio Comfort Guesthouse Tel:+251 116295546, +251 911662894 Email:contact@ethiocomforguesthouse.com Location:Gerji, the near Sunshine Bldg.

Family Bed and Breakfast Tel: +251 115528415 Location:Wollo Sefer, oposite Ibex Hotel Fert Pension Tel: +251114673642, +251920225530 Location:Beklo Bet, near St. George Sport Club Geez Michu Guesthouse Tel:+251 116610847, +251 911223061 Email: info@michuplc.com Location: Bob Marley Square, Getnet Guesthouse Tel:+251 912026969,+251930012428 Location: Haya Hulet, near Yohannes Kitfo

Addis abeba

Guesthouses

Goalky Guesthouse Tel:+251 116479050, +251 911198164 Email: go_alki@ethionet.et Location:CMC, near St. Michael Church Grand Guesthouse Tel: +251 116634909 Email: grandguesthouse@yahoo.com Location:Bole Medanealem Hagsam Luxury Guesthouse Tel: +251 11 465 0079 Email: hagsam1@gmail.com Hamonah Guesthouse Tel: +251 11 667 0057 Email: hamonahguesthouse@gmail.com Location: Megenagna to CMC Road Hanan Guesthouse Tel: +251 118402613, +251911565150 Location:Mesqel Flower Joba Guesthouse Tel: +251 911226568, +251911232255 Email: getachewdidey64@yahoo.com Location: Megenagna, near St. Yared Hospital

Kerod Pension Tel: +251 91 113 2290 Location: Bole, Mikililand La Palm Guesthouse Tel:+251 114667575 Location:Olympia to Mesqel Flower Road La Source Guesthouse Tel: +251 114665510, +251911970936 Email: lasourceguesthouse@gmail.com Location: Mesqel Flower Road, near Finote Loza Lucy Land Guesthouse Tel: +251 116263814/13 Email: jemimahguesthouse@yahoo.com Location:Bole, opposite Airport Customs Mam Guesthouse Tel: +251 116635509/+251 116510272 Email: mamguesthouse@yahoo.com Location:Bole Medhanealem Martin’s Cozy Place Tel: +251 116632611 Email: coze376@yahoo.com Location:Atlas

153

Addis abeba

Guesthouses

Melkam Guesthouse Tel: +251 116181437, +251 116632872 Location: Salfaz building Mimenalu Guesthouse Tel: +251 116180366/70 Email: mimenalu@yahoo.com Location:near 17/17 Shala Park Molla Guesthouse Tel: +251 116633582 Email: molla1@ethionet.et Location: Bole, near Brass Hospital Nigist Towers Guesthouse Tel: +251 115509770 Email:info@nigisttower.com Location: Casanchis Norr Guesthouse Tel: +251912210837 Location: Aware, Megenagna Road Olympus Guesthouse Tel: +251 115533916 Email: olympusguest@gmail.com Location: Olympia, behind Getu Commercial Center Orange Lion Guesthouse Tel: +251 116455635 Email: info@orangelionguesthouse.com n.kumbi@yahoo.com Location: near Waterworks Construction Polaris Guesthouse Tel: +251 116633942, +251920224499 Email: polaris-hiwot@yahoo.com Location: Haya Hulet, near Yohannes Kitfo Raki M Guesthouse Tel: +251 116293027 Location: Bole, Bob Marley Square, near Adika Rita Guesthouse Tel: +251 115530979 Email: pen@ethionet.et Location:Olympia Rigel Guesthouse Tel: +251 11 667 0192 Email: info@rigeladdis.com Location: Gulf Aziz Bldg.6th floor, Bole

154

Solmile Family Guesthouse Tel: +251 11 467 2508 Email: info@solmile.com Location: Infront of Mebrathail football club Sri Sai Guesthouse Tel: +251 115540218/26 Email: srisai@ethionet.et Location:Olympia, Aberus Complex Tazina Guesthouse Tel: +251 116465905/06/08 Email:reservation@tazinaguesthouse.com Location:Megenagna, behind AMCE Weygoss Guesthouse Tel: +251 115512205/+251 115155766 Email: reservation@weygossguesthouse.com Location: Bole Road, behind Mega Bldg.

Villa Des Anges Tel:+251 92 351 7579 Email: Info@villadesangesethiopia.com Location: Bole Rwanda Yaat Guest House Tel: +251 11 861 4679 Email: info@yaatguesthouse.com Location: Bole subcity, Gerji area, near sunshine apartment Yebsabi Guesthouse Tel: +251 116623101/03 Email: contact@yebsabi.com Location: 22, near St. Gabriel Hospital

Day trips from Addis

Gojam Road------------------------------------------------------- 154 Entoto 154 The Emperor Menelik’s Palace 154 Chancho Mugher Gorge and Jemma Valley 154 DebreLibanos 155

Ambo Road-------------------------------------------------------- 156 Menagesha Forest 156 Addis Alem (DebreTsion Kiddus Mariam Church) 156 Mount Wonchi 157 Ambo (HagereHiwot) 157

Dessie Road-------------------------------------------------------- 157 Debre Birhan 157 Ankober 157

Jimma Road-------------------------------------------------------- 158 Adadi Mariam and Melka Konturé 158 Tiya Stelae fields 158 Welisso 158

Addis To Adama Road------------------------------------------- 159 Mount Zuqualla 159 Bishoftu (DebreZeit) 159 Adama (Nazareth) 159

Day trips from Addis

Day Trips from Addis Whether to spend a quick half day out of the city or to get to know and explore at length Addis Abeba’s surroundings, a day trip from Addis to nay one of the following selected destinations is bound to leave you feeling refreshed and at ease.

Although there are many other sites of interest around the capital which haven’t been included in this list, we have tried to mention the best and most admired locations as well as those that are somewhat less distinguished but still have undeniable appeal.

Gojam Road Entoto – located on the outskirts of Addis Abeba only about 10 Km away from the city center, Menelik Square, Entoto Mountain is a place which affords a pleasant view and a crisp refreshing breeze. The historical importance of the hills themselves which are the predecessors of the capital make the trip that much more worthwhile. Entoto was chosen by Emperor Menelik to be his fourth capital and army encampment in 1881 believing that he was fulfilling an old prophecy which foretold that a descendant of Emperor Libne Dingel’s would one day return to rebuild the ruined settlement which once existed at the site. The hills also offered easy access to the rest of the country and the advantage of higher ground should an enemy attack. After his marriage to Taitu Betul in 1883, Menelik built Entoto Mariam Church which was only preceded by his palace and soon after in 1885, had another Church built this time dedicated to the Arch Angel Raguel. But the fortress town was not a suitable peace time abode since the weather was stormy and firewood scant so the capital soon moved south down the hill towards the “New Flower” of the Mimosa trees surrounding Fil-Wiha hot springs where Addis Abeba was established.

The Emperor Menelik’s Palace has a remarkable traditional architectural de-

sign. It has two buildings , the Adarash(hall) and the Elfign(guest house). The hall served as a meeting room, a salon and a kitchen where as it was the elfign in which VIP guests were served.

The Entoto St. Mary Emperor Menelik and Empress Taitu Memorial Museum which opened in 1987 inside the Church houses many relics and

clothing that belonged to the monarchs and takes you back in time to glimpse what life might have been like in those decisive times. The Emperor’s bed, crosses, parchments and armaments used at the battle of Adwa are among the heritages to be visited in the museum.

Chancho, Mugher Gorge and Jemma Valley

Once you stop at the Entoto hills the next place of interest on this route would be 40 Km from the capital, Chancho surroundings. It is an area of grass land and babbling streams. More over visits to the Mugher River Gorge starts from here. You can access the Mugher Gorge from the village of Derba, where there is a small waterfall which makes a plunge into a side gorge. Derba Cement factory with wonderful views in three

156

Day trips from Addis

directions is found just past the village. Gelada baboons are seen mostly outside the village of Derba. This peaceful, leafy village is a very good place of interest with a short distance from the capital for birdwatching and hiking. Lammergeyers, black eagle, gynnogene, Hemprich’s hornbill and the endemic white billed starling are worth looking out for. It is also an excellent option for hiking with good scenery, gentle slopes and possible luck to watch unusual migrant birds at the Sibale River.

Turning right from the main Gojam or Bahir Dar road at Mukaturi which is 40 Km past north of Chancho and heading further for 105 Km to the small town of Alem Ketema, you would reach at the pretty Jemma Valley named for the river that formed it, Jemma River which is a tributary of the Blue Nile. With an altitude of between 1300m and 2,000, the valley is rich in acacia woodland and it is of great interest to birdwatchers to see the endemic Rupell’s Cliff Chat and others like white billed starling, white throated seed eater, vinaceous dove, foxy cisticola ,speckle-fronted weaver are among others. It is also the most accessible place to tick an Ethiopian endemic restricted to sites in the Blue Nile region,the Harwood’s francolin.

There is a bus heading to Chancho daily from Autobus Tera in Addis taking a one hour drive. And there are light vehicles running from Chancho to Derba which is 20 Km west of the Gojam road. Public transportation is also available from Mukaturi to Alem Ketema to access the Jemma Valley or you can hire a 4X4.

Debre Libanos

The road to Debre Libanos, one of Ethiopia’s most prominent monasteries, is the Gojam road which leads north past the Entoto hills. This is the beginning of the true gorge country for which the central highlands are known for. Breath-taking views over chasms with a depth of 2,000 ft. or more, the old monastery itself is situated behind the new church to the right high up on the cliff. (Women are not permitted to enter.)

A mere 108 Km to the north from Addis and 60 Km north of chancho, Debre Libanos owes its foundation to St. Tekle Haimanot, a venerated clergyman who founded the monastery in 1275. He is said to have founded the first church at the site dedicated to the Virgin Mary inside a cave but the first big church at Debre Libanos (known then as Debre Asbo) was not built until the reign of Emperor Yeshaq (1413-1430) whose younger brother, Emperor Zara Ya’eqob used the monastery to implement his controversial religious policies and named it Debre Libanos.

The monastery was razed by Ahmed Gragn in 1531 who also massacred many of the residing monks but it was rebuilt first

by Emperor Yohannes IV in 1884 and then by his successor Menelik II. Another massacre occurred at Debre Libanos in 1937, when the monastery was accused of sheltering the assailants of the Italian Viceroy Graziani, who was wounded in a grenade attack in

157

Day trips from Addis

the capital. In a horrifying and unprecedented revenge campaign hundreds of monks, students and peasants were mass-murdered at the monastery where their bones are still on display. After 1941, when the Italians were expelled, the monastery regained its important position in the country’s Orthodox church and the eighth Church to be built there, dedicated to St. Tekle Haimanot was completed in 1963. This 13th-century monastery exhibits mosaic figures and murals by the late Maitre Artist Afewerk Tekle.

From Debre Libanos less than one Km up the main road, turning right on a rocky track you will find the first bridge in Ethiopia known as the Portuguese Bridge. Reputed for years to have been constructed in the sixteenth century by the Portuguese, the bridge is now considered to be entirely Ethiopian in origin. You can climb down below the bridge or walk along the cliff edge to look back at the falls and the bridge.

Ambo Road Menagesha Forest – to the west of Addis Abeba once you pass the town of Sebeta, you would see the oldest park in Africa with plantation areas, forest rich with flowers, smaller trees, birds and animals. For more on Menagesha forest please refer back the Trekking and Camping section of Adventure Tourism part of this book.

Addis Alem (Debre Tsion Kiddus Mariam Church)

Fifty five Km west of Addis Abeba (around halfway between Addis Abeba and Ambo) once a palace now Debre Tsion Church (known as the southern Axum by some due to the attractive rectangular architecture which was common in the Northern part of Ethiopia) was built by Menelik II to be the next capital of Ethiopia moving his royal residence from Mount Entoto, though the king abandoned the idea and returned to live in his previous home.

This unique church apart from its attractive architectural features and unique paintings has in its collection many church artifacts, various religious robes, emblems etc of previous kings and officials, brana (parchment written) manuscripts, crosses, pictures, books, letters, coins, firearms and various household and personal items of historical value donated by prominent personalities. Various groups and individuals have also donated items to the museum.

Most of the collections belong to the era of Emperor Menelik II, the battle of Adwa and are of both religious and

158

Day trips from Addis

secular themes. In general, the museum has over 1000 different items collected and acquired during different times as donations from kings, patriots, local officials and the members of the church congregation. Many items were also brought and added to the general collection from various churches and monasteries. The museum is open upon request by visitors and reasonable entrance fee is charged.

Mount Wonchi–located on the dirt road connecting Ambo and Wolisso, Mount

Wonchi is a 3,386 meter dormant volcano with a beautiful caldera which encircles a 4 Square Km crater lake on which small islands can be seen, one of which is the home of Wonchi Kirkos Monastery. This monastery is said to have been built by Emperor Zara Yakob in the 15th century. Wonchi Crater Lake and its surrounding described as a green paradise are one of the best sights for nature admirers. Wonchi is 157 Km to the west of the capital or 32 Km south of Ambo and can take about one hour, but it can also be approached from Welisso on the Addis Abeba – Jimma road.

Ambo (Hagere Hiwot) – home to Ethiopia’s most popular mineral water, Ambo is located about 125 Km or a two and half hour drive west of Addis Abeba. A therapeutic hot spring that lie in the town center and accompanying swimmimg pool surrounded by lawns and shady trees makes it an ideal camping site for an overnight stay or just a day trip. Public transport from Addis Abeba to Nekemte, passes through Ambo.

Dessie Road Debre Birhan

Leaving the capital north east by the Dessie Road passing the dam on the Legedadi river, the main road continues to Debre Birhan. Before you reach Debre Birhan which is 130 Km from the capital, there are many spots along the way. At about 50 Km, just past Sendaffa, the deep gorge of the Kesem river is visible to the right. The Debre Birhan town is known for being a rich sheep breeding area which are raised both for their meat and wool. The oldest blanket factory is located on the right of the road at the beginning of the town. Traditional wool hats on the shepherd boys and carpets in traditional designs are abundant in the markets on Saturdays. Debre Birhan Selassie church is also worth a site to be visited.

Ankober

The city of Ankober, located 42 Km east of Debre Birhan had played an important role in the country’s history as being a strategic site in the struggle between highland and lowland emperors as early as the 13th century. The fact that the city controlled most trade routes from the lowlands and from the Red Sea port of Zeila added an economic strength to Ankober, which flourished as the capital of the great region of Showa and its kings even in the turbulent time of the Zemene Mesafint. A notable Showan King of the time was King Sahle Selassie (1813-1847), Emperor Menelik’s grandfather who built the Church of Mikael which is a major attraction in Ankober. The Saturday market at Aliyu Amba on the outskirts of the city and the Zinjero Gedel escarpments which offer magnificent scenery are worth taking a look at as part of a daytrip to Ankober which is a 175 Km drive north east of Addis Abeba. Ankober was Menelik II’s capital before he moved to Entoto. Ankober Palace Lodge is known for its kingly treatment of its guests and brings the feel of ancient Ankober to life.

159

Day trips from Addis

Jimma Road Adadi Mariam and Melka Konturé– these two sites, the former a rock hewn church and the latter a prehistoric archeological site, are to be found within about 15 Km of each other on the south western Jimma road out of Addis Abeba some 50 Km away. The Melka Konturé site was intermittently habituated from the Early Stone Age up to the New Stone Age for around 1.8 million years. It is an archeological site lying at the bank of Awash River, of which archeological findings are exhibited in the National Archeological Museum in Addis Abeba. Although there is little indication of the significant history of the site on the ground, there are also some interesting exhibits housed in a small but informative museum. The oldest known Homo sapiens cranial fragments estimated to be about 500,000 years old and Homo erectus fossils which are at least 1.5 million years old are some of the relics which the site has yielded.

Dating back to the 15th or even as early as the 13th century by some accounts, the Adadi Mariam Church is not as old as some of the rock hewn churches of the northern highlands but is nonetheless an impressive and revered place of worship which attests to the early adoption of Christianity in the surrounding Guraghe area. The church was destroyed by Ahmed Gragn in the early 16th century and was only discovered and rehabilitated in the reign of Emperor Menelik. It has been in active use ever since.

Tiya Stelae fields – at 80 Km south of Addis Abeba and only 30 Km from Adadi

Mariam, the Tiya Stelae fields are one of the most remarkable sites to see on a day trip from Addis Abeba. These mysterious field of obelisks which has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1980 dates back to the 12th to 15th century. It is believed to be a mass burial site for men and women who died between the ages of 18 and 30 under circumstances which can only be guessed at. The presence of engravings of swords on many of the obelisks, which can stand up to 2 meters tall, might mean that the deceased were slain or where fighters but no one, not even the French archeologists who re-erected some of the fallen obelisks at their correct positions, can confidently say what the inscriptions on the stones signify. There are many stelae at the Tiya fields alone of which 31 of them have carved reliefs and more throughout southern Ethiopia all the way until Negele Borena.Most of the stones are engraved with enigmatic symbols, notably swords.

Wolisso – located about 100 Km south west of Addis Abeba known also as Ghion

in reference to its hot spring. The holy water flowing into the Welisso Mariam church is known to heal the sick and disabled believers. Negash lodge, a recently privatized and renovated former government hotel, situated on a 1Km gravel road south of the main street having both an outdoor and indoor swimming pool, the outdoor being a hot – spring fed pool. In its garden you’ll encounter plenty of monkeys and also various birdlife.

160

Day trips from Addis

Addis to Adama Road Mount Zuqualla– Towering at almost 3000 meters above sea level, this dormant volcano is crowned by a beautiful crater lake at its summit. There is a monastery by the lake, Zuqualla Mariam, which was reputedly founded in the 4th century by St. Gebre Menfes Kidus or Abo. Abo celebrations take place on the 15th of October and the 14th of March each year attended by scores of pilgrims who come to attend the festivities at the church. The forest surrounding the lake is a good place to spot the Colobus Monkey and Grey Duiker while the marshland around the lake harbors the endemic Wattled Ibis. To get to Zuqualla, turn off right after Pyramid Hotel entering Debre Zeit.

Bishoftu (Debre Zeit) –Named Debre Zeit (Mount of Olives) by Emperor Haile

Selassie in 1955, this scenic town reverted to its original Oromo name, Bishoftu, in 1990. The main attractions of Bishoftu, only a 40 Km drive from Addis, the small town of Debre Zeit is a great short drive away providing simple enjoyment. The town is built by the several volcanic crater lakes in and around the city, some of which are deep craters. Among others Lake Hora, Bishoftu and Kuriftu are the major ones. Lake Hora is a 1 Square Km crater which has a special cultural dimension. It is here that the Annual Irecha Festivity, which is basically a Thanksgiving Day in Oromo culture, takes place. This tradition has been taking place for generations and includes activities such as sacramental dancing and animal sacrifice to the Waqa (their God ). The town also enjoys a beautiful environment full of birdlife and a calm atmosphere not far from the busy capital city. Here, there are very luxurious resorts and lodges on the lake shore as well as simpler hotels. Asham Africa Hotel and Resort having all its rooms with a view on Lake Bishoftu is an eco-friendly great hotel with a fabulous collection of African arts and artifacts. Dream Land Hotel and Resort is also another famous hotel with a view on Lake Bishoftu. Kuriftu Lake is also home to one of the best spa and wellness retreats which share the Lake’s name.

Adama (Nazareth) – the busy city of Adama (known as Nazareth until the end

of the 90’s) is the third largest in the country and serves as a popular getaway destination for multitudes who want an alternative weekend to Addis Abeba, which is a 100 Km east of Addis Abeba, at the edge of the rift valley. The city is also a major political center as it is the capital of the country’s largest federal region, Oromia. There is no lack of hotels and resorts from the budget to the high end in Adama but most would agree that the best resort in the city, or rather on its fringes at 25 Km south, is Sodere Resort. The pools of Sodere are naturally heated and the location of the resort alongside the Awash River makes it ideal for spotting crocodiles, Hippos, monkeys and several bird species.

Although the resort is usually busy on weekends, it is serene and peaceful on weekdays.

South of Nazareth past the turn off to Sodere, the road leads to the Arsi Mountains and further south to Bale Mountains National Park.

161

Debrezeit/ Bishoftu

Resorts

162

Debrezeit/ Bishoftu

Resorts

163

Debrezeit/ Bishoftu

Hotel and Resorts

164

Adama

Hotel

165

Adama

Hotel

166

Around Addis abeba

Hotels

Hotels in Dukem

Delina Hotel Tel: +251 114320914 Sena Guesthouse Tel: +251 114320268, 921305694 Tranquil Hotel Tel:+251 114321000, +251 913819941 Yina Grand Hotel Tel: +251 114320606, +251911400459 Email: yinaeth@yahoo.com

Hotels in Debre Zeit (Bishoftu)

Airforce Hotel No. 1 & 2 Tel: +251 114338035 Bekran See Hotel Tel: +251 114331062, +251 911400160 Liesak Guesthouse Tel: +251 114332055, +251911013113 Pyramid Paradise Hotel Tel: +251 114331406, +251 114336216/17 Email: danielas@ethionet.et Seven E hotel Tel: +251 114339888, +251 118480644, +251 911400152 Email: rosemaryhotel@yahoo.com Tommy International Hotel Tel: +251 114339999, +251 114335699, Email: tommyinterhotel@gmail.com Zequala Hotel Tel: +251 114338226

Bishoftu Lodges and Resorts

Asham Africa Tel: +251 11 437 0710 Email: info@ashamafrica.com Babogaya Viewpoint Lodge Tel: +251 911 465693 Email: lakebabogaya@live.com Babogaya Resort Tel: +251 114337676/7 Email: babogayaresort@yahoo.com Dreamland Hotel and Resort Tel: +251 11 437 1520/21/22 Email: info@ethiodreamland.com

Elame Lodge Tel: +251 91 140 0420 Email: zemedkunmgr@elamelodge.com Etalem Resort Tel:+251 91 160 8719 Kuriftu Resort and Spa Tel: +251 114371220/58/61, 116623605 Email:book@kurifturesortspa.com Salaish Lodge Tel: +251 113336879 Email: salaishlodge@yahoo.com

Hotels in Modjo

Bekele Molla Hotel Tel: +251 221160298 Daema Hotel Tel:+251 221160022 Four Corner Hotel Tel: +251 221160118, +251 911230313

Hotels in Adama/Nazareth

Adama Executive Hotel Tel:+251 221120307, +251 221120300/73 Email:adamaexecutive@yahoo.com Adama German Hotel Tel: +251 221127320, 221123747/01/87 Email:adamagermanhotel@yahoo.com Adama Makonnen Hotel Tel: +251 221110888 Email: alemayehumak@yahoo.com Adama Ras Hotel Tel:+251 221111993/2188 Adama Gete Hotel Tel:+251 221125921/+251 911628358 Email: gethotel137@gmail.com Awash National Hotel Tel: +251 221114478, +251 221117933 Ayu International Hotel Tel: +251 221125723/36/38 Email: ayuhotel@yahoo.com Bekele Molla Hotel Tel: +251 221112312 Dire International Hotel Tel: +251 221117142 Email: direinternational@ethionet.et

167

Around Addis abeba

Hotels

Gulf Flower Hotel Tel:+251 221110387/+251 916820864 Hotel Maya Tel: +251 221124949 Email: hotelmaya@myemail.com Kelly’s Retreat Tel: +251221123001/35/36/37, 920608500 Email: kellysretreat@gmail.com Kereyu Hill Resort Hotel Tel:+251 221127080/90 Email:kereyuhillresort@gmail.com Palace Hotel Tel:+251 221113800 Panafric Hotel Tel: +251 221122720 Rift Valley Hotel Tel:+251 221112345/4444 Email: riva@ethionet.et Safari Lodge Tel: +251 221122011/221122012 Email: saf.log@ethionet.et Teatas International Hotel Tel: +251 221 121 933 Email: teatashotel@yahoo.com

Derartu Tulu Hotel Tel: +251 223312828

Other Hotels nearby

Ankober Palace Lodge Tel: +251 116230012 Email: ankoberlodge@yahoo.com

Aros Hotel Tel: +251 911203307 Sodere Resort Hotel Tel: +251 221113400 E-mail: sodere@ethionet.et

Hotels in Welenchiti Adeg Motel Tel: +251921615555

Hotels in Meki

Bekele Molla Hotel Tel: +251 221180004 Frank Dubissa Hotel Tel: +251 022118 06 44, +251 0221180645

Hotels in Assela

Assela Ras Hotel Tel: +251 223311089

168

Hotels in Welisso

Alem Showa Motel Tel: +251 113410297 Negash Lodge Tel: +251 113410002 Raferal Hotel Tel: +251 113410294

Hotels in Ambo

Abebech Metaferia Hotel Tel: +251 112362365/66, +251 913255127 Email: abdela.kedir3913@gmail.com Ambo Ethiopia Hotel Tel: +251 112410002

Hotels in Debre Berhan Eva Hotel Tel: +251 116813607 Helen Hotel Tel: +251 116811204

Lodge in Ankober

North Hotels in Debre Markos

FM International Hotel Tel:+251 58 7713227, +251 913929091 Shebel Hotel Tel: +251 587711410/285 Email: shebelt@ethionet.et Tilik Hotel Tel: +251 587712805

Hotels in Finote Selam

Damot Hotel Tel: +251 587751111, +251 911641999

North

Hotels

Bahir Dar 11°36N 37°23’E

Bahir Dar is located on the southern tip of Lake Tana. It is 578km northwest of Addis Abeba. It has an elevation of 1,840m above sea level. It is the capital of Amhara Regional State. The city enjoys a tropical type of climate, with an average temperature of 17.50C. Bahir Dar is one of the leading tourist destinations in Ethiopia, with a variety of attractions in nearby Lake Tana and the Blue Nile River. The city is distinctly known for its wide avenues lined with palm trees and a variety of colorful flowers. It is also considered one of the most beautiful, well planned, and safe cities. Taxis provide efficient transportation in the city. Nowadays, three-wheeler taxis are common.

Hotels in Bahir Dar

Hotels and Pensions in

Abay Minch Lodge Bahir Dar Tel: +251 582181039 (Bahir Dar) Azwa Hotel +251 115154310, +251 115508903 (A.A) Tel: +251 582203820 Email: sandmp@ethionet.et Enkutatash No. 2 Bahir Dar Ghion Hotel Tel: +251 582204435 Tel: +251 582200111 Lakeview Bar & Guesthouse Email: ghionbd@ethionet.et Tel: +251 910033746 Blue Nile Hotel Haile Pension Tel: +251 582202028, +251 582264094 Tel:+251 582203584, +251 918760006 Email: thebluenilehotel@yahoo.com Menen Hotel Dib Anbessa Hotel Tel:+251 582202800 Tel: +251 582201436 Tadesse Pension Email: bearlionhotelbahirdar@yahoo.com Tel:+251 918780040 Ethio Star Hotel Tsehay Pension Tel: +251582202026,911928278 Tel: +251 582221550 Email: ethiostar2@yahoo.com Email: meritam@ethionet.et Homland Hotel Wudie Pension Tel: +251 582204545 Tel: +251 582200335, +251 913083764 Email: homlandreservation@gmail.com Gasa Hotel Hotels and Pensions in Gondar Tel: +251 918341199, +251 918727051 Amba Ras Hotel Email: gasahotel@yahoo.com Tel:+251 581111181 Grum Gaint Hotel Email: eskerich@yahoo.com Tel: +251 582200832 Atse Bekaffa Hotel Papyrus Hotel Tel: +251 581117711 Tel: +251 582205100 Email: atsebekaffa.h@yahoo.com Email:info@papyrushotelethiopia.com Belegez Pension Kuriftu Resort and Spa Tel: +251 581114356, +251 918772997 Tel: +251 582264868, +251116623605 Central Gondar Hotel Email: book@kurifturesortspa.com Tel: +251 581117020 Summerland Hotel Circle Hotel Tel: +251 582206566 Tel: +251 581111991 Email: gogobahirdar@yahoo.com Crown Pension Tana Hotel Tel: +251 918777100, +251 918771569 Tel: +251 582200554/0626

169

North

Hotels

Gondar 12°36’N 37°28’E12.6°N 37.467°E

Gondar was for long the imperial capital of Ethiopia. It is located 738km northwest of Addis Abeba at an elevation of 2,133m. Places of interest to visit: Castles of Gondar.

Etege Hotel Hotels in Lalibela Tel: +251 918789500, +251 581111927 Alef Paradise Hotel Fogera Hotel Tel:+251 333360023/0911424085 Tel: +251 581110405, +251 918350069 Email: alparahotel@yahoo.com Goha Hotel Aman Hotel Tel: +251 581110634 Tel: +251 333360076/0911756450 Email: gohahotel@yahoo.com Asheten Hotel Gorezen Pension Tel: +251 333360030 Tel: +251 918 770256, +251 581110934 Email: ashetenhotel@yahoo.com Hibret Hotel Bet Abraham Hotel Tel: +251 581120395/400 Tel: +251 333361065/0911534354 Gonder Landmark Hotel Ben Abeba Restaurant Tel: +251 58 112 2929/30 Tel: +251 33 336 0215 Lammergeyer hotel Email: habtamu@benabeba.com Tel: +251 911735836, +251 918772987 Eyerusalem Hotel Lodge du Chateau Tel:+251 333360047 Tel: +251 581110015, +251 918110015 Email: lastajerusalem@ethionet.et Email: lodge@lodgeduchateau.com Lal Hotel Lodge Fasil Tel:+251 333360008/44 Tel:+251581110221/0637,+251911017991 Email: info@lalhoteltour.com Taye Belay Hotel Lalibela Hotel Tel: +251 581112180 Tel: +251 333360036 Email: tayehotel@gmail.com Email: lalibelahotels1@gmail.com Quara Hotel Lalibela Lodge Tel: +251 58 1110040 Tel: +251 91 153 4900 Email: quarahotelgonder@yahoo.com Email: info@lalibelalodge.com Queens Hotel Lalibela Hudad Tel: +251 581141297/0918772777 Tel:+251 33360020, +251 911029052 Email: bookings@lalibelahudad.com Hotels in North Gondar - Debark Mountain View Hotel, Lalibela Hotel Imet Gogo Tel: +251 333360804, +251 911983396 Tel: +251 581170633/34 Email: info@mountainsviewhotel.com Giant Lobilia Hotel Seven Olives Hotel Tel: +251 581170560/22 Tel: +251 333360020/484 Red Fox Email: sevenoliveshotel@yahoo.com Tel: +251 581170418 Lalibela: Lalibela is a small town in Semien Lodge northern Ethiopia, known for its monoTel: +251 582311079/+251 115524758 lithic churches. It is lolcated in Semien Email: simien.lodge.addis@gmail.com Wollo Zone, 600kms away from AdSemien Park Hotel dis Ababa. It has an elevation of 2500m Tel: +251 581170055/0406 above sea level.

170

North

Hotels

Tukul Village Hotel Tel: +251 333360565/64 Email: messay_2005@yahoo.co.uk Red rock Lalibela Hotel Tel: +251 33 336 1030 Email:info@redrocklalibelahotel.com Roha Hotel Tel: +251 333360009/88/31, 115158252 Email: info@rohahotels.com Yimreha Hotel Tel: +251 333360862, +251 911747777 Zan-Seyoum Hotel Tel: +251 91 104 8279 Email: reservation@zanseyoumhotel

Hotels in Woldia

Lal Hotel Tel: +251 33336008/44 Yordanos Hotel Tel: +251 333310357/034

Hotels in Mekelle

Abraha Castel Hotel Tel: +251 344 403722 Africa Hotel Tel: +251 914 705609 Axum Hotel Tel: +251 344 405155/57 Email: axum.d@ethionet.et Beefmen Garden Hotels and Pensions in Dessie Tel:+251 91 430 0263 Amba Ras Hotel Email: esimret@gmail.com Tel:+251 331119778 Dove Café Ethiopia Hotel Tel:+251 34 440 1210 Tel: +251 331117056 Geralta Hotel Fasika Hotel Tel: +251 344 401764 Tel:+251 331112930 Hatsey Pension Ghion Hotel Tel: +251 344 411995 Tel:+251 331111015 Hatse Yohannes Hotel Tel: +251 344 406760, +251 914310937 Dessie 11°8’N 39°38’E Email: atsejohn@ethionet.et Dessie is a city found in Amhara Regional State of north-central Ethiopia.

Heran-Sabi Hotel Located 401km away from the center Tel: +251 334 412138 on the Addis Abeba to Mekele HighHawelti Hotel way in Debub Wollo Zone, this city has Tel: +251 914 708722 an elevation between 2,470 and 2,550m Hilltop Hotel above sea level.

Tel: +251 344 405683/84 Kualiber Hotel Mar Amusement Park Tel:+251 331115148 Tel: +251 91 472 5654 Lalibela Hotel Maekel Tigrai Hotel Tel: +251 331113093 Tel: +251 914301698 Tossa Pension Merkeb Hotel Tel: +251 331119225/26 Tel: +251 344 410360 Milano Hotel Hotels in Dessie-Kombolcha Tel: +251 344 418724, +251 914300825 Sunnyside Hotel Email: hotelmilano@yahoo.com Tel: +251 335515243, +251 338510118/6 Seti Hotel Email:sunnysidehotelkombolcha@yahoo.com Tel: +251 344 410909 Tekle Hotel Solomon Pension Tel: +251 335510056 Tel: +251 344 416257

171

North

Hotels

Mekelle 13°29’N 39°28’E

Mekele is a city in northern Ethiopia and the capital of Tigray Regional State. It is located 780km north of Addis Abeba. It has an elevation of 2,084m. Mekele was founded in the 13th century and later served as the capital of Emperor Yohannes IV (1871 to1889). Within 80km of Mekele, there are over 120 rock-hewn churches, which makes Mekele a stop off point or central resting place for visitors. Mekele is also a primary transfer point for camel caravans bringing salt up from the arid lands of the Danakil Depression.

The Yordanos Hotel Tel: +251 344 403722 Email: yordaras@yahoo.com

Hotels in Shire

Axum:

Hotels in Alamata

Africa Hotel Tel:+251 344440101 Gebar Shire Hotel Hotels in Axum Tel: +251 344443427, +251 344444264 Abenet Hotel Tel: +251 347733857 Hotels in Adigrat Brana Hotel Agoro Lodge Tel:+251 34 775 2349 Tel: +251 34 845 0202/03 Consular International Hotel Biret Gebre Selassie Hotel Tel: +251 347750210 Tel: +251 344453592 Exodus Hotel Canaan International Hotel Tel: +251 347752498 Tel: +251 34 445 2823/21 Ethiopis Hotel Eve Hotel Tel:+251 347752363 Tel:+251 344451120 Romhai Hotel Mehel Agame Hotel Tel:+251 347751501 Tel: +251 344452466 The Arks Hotel Woldisibagads Hotel Tel: +251 347752676 Tel:+251 344452275 Email: daniark.2003@yahoo.com Yohannes IV Pension Yeha Hotel Tel: +251 344452446 Tel: +251 347752605 Axum is located 959km north of Addis Abeba. Axum was the capital of the Kingdom of Axum. It has an elevation of 2,131m. Axum is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site.

Hotels in Adwa Mai Assa Hotel Tel: +251 347713161 Semayata Hotel Tel:+251 347712153 Soloda Hotel Tel: +251 347711063 172

Meaza Hotel Tel: +251 347741232, +251911600160 Ethiopia Hotel Tel:+251 347740304 Tewodros Hotel Tel:+251 347740286

Other Hotels in Tigrai Region Gheralta Lodge Tel: +251 346670343, +251 116632893 Email: info@gheraltalodgetigrai.com Girmay Murutse Hotel Tel: +251 345510278

East

Hotels

Dire Dawa Ras Hotel Lemlem Hotel Tel: +251 25 1113255, +251 915 32 0033 Tel: +251 347750873 Email: ddrashotel@gmail.com Location: Maichew Location: Kezira Maylomin Botanical Garden Lodge Fasika Hotel Tel: +251 344460754,115528900, Tel: +251 251111260 Location: Temben Abiy Adi Location:Number 1 Gereny Hotel East Tel: +251251112544 Grand Triangle Hotel Hotel in Awash Tel: +251 251122193, +251 912068630 Awash Falls Lodge Email: trianglehotel@ethionet.et Tel: +251 116530245 +251 912770965 Karamara Hotel Email: info@awashfallslodge.com Tel: +251 251113392 etta@ethionet.et Location:Greek Camp Peacock Hotel Hotels in Afar Region Tel: +251 251119683 Afar Bilen Lodge Location:Greek Camp, Stadium Tel: +251 115523497 Sabian Hotel Ajip Hotel Tel: +251 251130484 Tel: +251 335500306 Location:Sabian Location: Logia Samrat Hotel Basha Amare Hotel Tel: +251 251130600, +251 915320402 Tel: +251 335550119, +251 913455341 Email: samrat@ethionet.et Location: Asaita Location:Kezira Erta Ale Hotel Sai Hotel Tel: +251 336660323, +251 336660324 Tel: +251 251112285 Location: Semera Location:La Gare Lemat Hotel Selam Blue Bird Hotel Tel:+251 335550080 Tel: +251 25 113 0220, +251 25 113 0218 Location: Asaita Email, Selambluebird2014@gmail.com Semera 11°47’32’N 41°0’31’E Location: near City Council Semera is the capital of Afar Regional Shalom Hotel State. It is located 588km northeast of Tel: +251 251111491 Addis Abeba.

Location: Number 1 Shola Park Hotel Tel: +251 251110560 Hotels in Dire Dawa Location: Sabian Blossom Hotel Tsehay Hotel Tel: +251 251110393, +251 911948594 Tel:+251 251110023 Email: hotelblossom@ethionet.et Location:Ganda Kore Location:Greek Camp Tourist Hotel Dill Hotel Tel:+251 251113265 Tel: + 251 251114181, +251 911204072 Location:Ganda Kore Email: dilhotel@ethionet.et Location:near City Council

173

East

Hotels

Dire Dawa 9o 27’N and 9o 49’N /41o38’E and 42o19’E

Dire Dawa is located in the eastern part of Ethiopia, 510km from Addis Abeba, and is one hour’s drive from the historic city of Harar. It has a warm and dry climate with a low level of precipitation. Its proximity to Djibouti makes Dire Dawa an important tourist destination. Dire Dawa was established in 1902 along with the construction of the first train terminal. The station that was intended to serve as merely a railway terminal over a century ago has now become the second most populated urban center in the country.

Most people speak more than three languages fluently. Amharic, Oromiffa, and Somali languages are spoken commonly. The people are very friendly. Dire Dawa has various tourist-standard hotels that can provide excellent lodging service. Some of the hotels in Dire Dawa can arrange vehicle service to do a full day visit.

Hotels in Harar

Abadir Guesthouse Tel: +251 256660721 Anisa Guest House Tel:+251256660895, Mob.+251915330011 Email: anisa.abdela@ethiotelecom.com Belayneh Hotel Tel: +251 256662030 Dessie Hotel Tel: +251 256660218/88

Ararso Hotel Tel: +251 257750623 Asud Hotel Tel: +251 257750425 Bede Hotel Tel: +251 257752841 Betlehem Hotel Tel: +251 257751022 Edom Hotel Tel: +251 257750368

Harar

Harar is located about 500km east of Addis Abeba, at an elevation of 1,885m. The city can be divided in to two parts: Jugol, the historic center, and the new town before reaching the jugol or wall. The wall surrounding this sacred Muslim city was built between the 13th and 16th centuries. It is a 3.5km long wall with a height of nearly four meters and five gates. Harar Jugol was registered by UNESCO as a world heritage site in 2006.

Heritage Plaza Hotel Tel: +251 256665137 Rewda Hotel Tel: +251 256665137 Tana Hotel Tel: +251 256668482/3 Tewodros Hotel Tel: +251 256660217 Tasdikan Tesfaye Hotel Tel: +251 256661546 Wondimu Hotel Tel: +251 256661422 Hotels in Jijiga Alemayhu Hotel Tel: +251 257750438

174

Ethio Millenium Hotel Tel: +251 257757618 HAmde Hotel Tel: +251 257754678 Kulmi Hotel Tel: +251 257755373 Master Hotel Tel: +251 257750416 Metasebia Hotel Tel: +251 257750045 National Hotel Tel: +251 257750311 Tilahun Pension Tel: +251 257750244

South

Hotels

South Hotels in Ziway

Bekele Molla Hotel Tel:+251 464412077, +251 464412571 Betlhem Hotel

Tel:+251 464414104, +251 464412702 Haile Resort Mob.: +251 93 010 6890 Email: reservation@haileresort.com.et Tourist Hotel Zeway Tel: +251 911516832, +251 464414000

Resorts and Lodges in Langano

Shalla Hotel Tel: +251 461105780, +251911202801 Shashemene Rift Valley Hotel Tel: +251 461105710/11

Hotel In Wondo Genet

Wabi Shebele Hotel Tel: +251 461190705, +251 462200491

Hotels In Aleta Wondo

Zera Biruk Hotel Tel: +251 462240963, +251 913621513 Mintesinot Hotel Tel: +251 462240066

Langano Lodge Hotel in Adaba Tel:+251 11461191683, +251 921735275 Asefa Hailu Hotel Email: langanolodge@ethionet.et Tel: +251 226630002 +251 911239046 Africa Vacation Club Tel: +251 115532006, +251 115533101 Hotel in Bale-Robe Email: avc@ethionet.et Bekele Molla Hotel Bekele Molla Hotel Tel: +251 226650065 Tel: +251 911729868 Bishangari Lodge Hotel in Bale-Goba Tel:+251 115517533, +251 911201317 Goba Wabi Shebele Hotel Email: reservations@bishangari.com Tel: +251 226610041 Sabana Beach Resort Tel:+251 461191181/466 Hotels In Hawassa/Awassa Email: info@sabanalangano.com Blue Nile Hotel Wenney Eco Lodge Tel:+251 462200197, +251 462202372 Tel: +251 461190602/03 Email: reservations@wenneyecolodge.com Central Hawassa Hotel Tel: +251 462200743 Circle of Life Hotel Shashemene Tel: +251 462207800/62, +251462201318 Bekele Molla Hotel Email: circleoflifehotel@gmail.com Tel: +251 461103033 Chembelala Hotel Greenland Hotel Tel:+251 462209728/51/53 Tel: +251 461101312 Dukele Waqeyo Pension Haile Resort Tel:+251 462205431, +251 916826112 Mob.: +251 93 010 8484/85 Email: reservation@haileresort.com.et GebreKristos Hotel Tel:+251 462202760/80 Lily of the Valley Haroni International Hotel Tel:+251 461106996 Tel: +251 462208160/61 Majestic Rift Valley Hotel Email: haronihotel@yahoo.com Tel:+251 461105710/11

175

South

Hotels

Haile Resort South Star Tel: +251 46 220 8444 Tel: +251 46 220 1616 Email: reservation@haileresort.com.et Email: info@southstarinthotel.com Hawassa Leke View South Spring Hotel Tel: +251 46 220 8080/81 Tel: +251 462 20 64 72, +251 462 20 64 70 Email: reservation@hawassalakeviewhotel.com United Africa Group Shebele Hotel Hawassa Inn Tel: +251 462205394/95/96 Tel:+251 462201412/20, +251 462201326 Email: uagghawassa@hotmail.com

Hawassa 7°3’N 38°28’E

Hawassa is the capital of Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples (SNNP) Regional State. It is located 275km south of Addis Abeba in Sidama Zone. It is found in the Central Rift Valley Lakes System, with altitudes ranging from 1,670 to 2,000m. The town is positioned on the shores of Lake Awassa. Lake Awassa is one of two freshwater lakes found in the Ethiopian Rift Valley. It is one of the country’s best-planned and most attractive cities. Its beautiful setting, combined with spectacular Lake Awassa, makes it a practical and pleasant stop-over for travelers.

Kifleselam Hotel Yamare Hotel Tel: +251 462202939 Tel: +251 462210177 Lakeside Motel Email: yamare1@hotmail.com Tel: +251 462210337, +251 462205050 +251 916823159 Hotels in Yirgalem Lewi Menaharia Hotel Aregash Lodge Tel: +251 462206310 Tel: +251 462251136, +251 462250575 Lewi Piazza Hotel Email: alltour@ethionet.et Tel: +251 462201654 Fura College Hotel Lewi Resort Hotel Tel: +251 462251430 Tel: +251 462201544, +251462208953 Yamare Hotel Email: info@lewihotelandresort.com Tel:+251 462252030 Mountain Hotel Tel: +251 462200306, +251 916826411 Hotel in Sidama Email: mountain.hotel@yahoo.com Logita Falls Lodge Oasis International Hotel Tel: +251 462240537, +251 911347893 Tel:+251 462206452/25 Email:interoasisbr_2009@yahoo.com Hotels and Pensions in Dilla Paradise Hotel Afomia Pension Tel: +251 462204368 Tel: +251 46 331 4444 Pinna Hotel Mob.: +251 91 658 1547 Tel: +251 462210335/36 Delight Hotel Email: pinnahotel-awassa@hotelpinna.com Tel: +251 463 312808, +251 463 312811 Tadesse Enjory Hotel Email: delightinternationalhotel1@gmail.com Tel: +251 462200101, +251 462209445 Get Smart Hotel Email: bihondave@yahoo.com Tel: +251 463312955 Sidama Wubet Hotel Lalibela Pension Tel: +251 462200292 Tel:+251 463312300

176

South

Hotels

Merasa Hotel Tel:+251 463313014 Tourist Hotel and Restaurant Tel: +251046 3310968, +251 911826597 Nahom Hotel Tel: +251 463312841

Bright Hotel Tel: +251 461151653 Kasech Fikadu Hotel Tel:+251 461150443 Matios Memorial Hotel Tel: +251 461150130 Rediet Hotel Tel: +251 461150524, +251 911139097 Hotels In Yirgacheffe Shell Motel Mahlet Hotel Tel: +251 046 3320030, +251 91120 4659 Tel: +251 461150101/662

Hotel in HagerMariam HagreMariam Hotel Tel: +251 464430281/21

Hotel in Yabelo

Yabelo Motel Tel: +251 464460785/86 Email: mekdmazd@yahoo.com Yabelo Lodge Tel: +251 464460237

Hotels in Moyale

Bekele Molla Hotel Tel: +251 464440030 Koket Borna -Moyale Hotel Tel: +251 464441161 Yesossa Adaye Hotel Tel: +251 464400093

Hotels in Wolkite

Soressa Hotel Tel:+251 911219853 Yejoka International Hotel Tel:+251113301142

Hotels in Emdbir

Abegaz Wolde Hotel Tel:+251 113310046 Murare Wondeneh Hotel Tel: +251 113310034, +251 0920353849

Hotels in Butajira Ameg Motel Tel: +251 461150816

Hotels in Worabe-Siltie Kamil Pension Tel:+251 467710390 Park Hotel Tel: +251 467710485 Riyad Hotel Tel: +251 467710023/75

Hotels in Hossaina

Absira Hotel Tel: +251 465552439, +251912016048 Canal Hotel Tel: +251 911568032 Heme Hotel Tel:+251 465552264/65/66 Lema International Hotel Tel: +251 465554453, +251911609882 Mobil Hotel Tel: +251 465552741 Tamerie Debebe Hotel Tel: +251 465552250

Hotels in Durame-Kembata Tembaro Msala Hotel Tel:+251 465541034 Shiferaw Mebrate Hotel Tel:+251 465540413

Hotels in Halaba Kulito Absira Hotel Tel:+251 465560797 Elsheday Pension Tel:+251 465560708

177

South

Hotels

Green View Hotel Tel:+251 913180933 Misebo Pension Tel:+251 465560748

Hotels in Welaita - Sodo Axum Hotel Tel:+251 465510139 Baltu Hotel Tel: +251 465512468/9 Bekele Molla Hotel Tel: +251 465512382/6 Bright House Hotel Tel: +251 465513122 Comfort Hotel Tel: +251 465512833

Hotels in Arbaminch

Abyssinia Pension Tel: +251 468810381 Abaya Hotel Tel: +251 468810181 Arbaminch Bekele Mola Hotel Tel: +251 468811341, +251468810046

Paradise Lodge Arbaminch Tel: +251 468812914/2398 Email: info@lodgeparadise.com Soma Lodge Tel: +251 468810395/6 Swaynes Hotel Tel: +251 468811895/9624 Email: dario@greenlandtoursandhotels.com

Hotels in Karat-Konso

Green Hotel Tel: +251 467730151 Kidist Mariam Hotel Tel: +251 467730006 Kanta Lodge Tel: +251 467730092, +251 467730403 Email: hesstravel@ethionet.et Strawberry Fields Eco-lodge Tel: +251 468840755, +251 912214687 Turmi Lodge Tel: +251 116631481 Email: splendordh@yahoo.com

Hotels in Jinka

Eco-Omo Safari Lodge Arba Minch is a city in southern Ethiopia, Tel: +251 467751500 about 505km south of Addis Abeba. Lo- Email: villaggioglobale@ethionet.et cated in Gamo Gofa Zone, Southern Na- Jinka Resort Hotel tions, Nationalities, and Peoples (SNNP) Tel:+25146775043/44,+251116189240 Regional State. It has an elevation of Orit Hotel 1,285m. It is the second largest town in Tel: +251 467750045/742 SNNPRS next to Hawassa. The town is Goh Hotel situated in a magnificent position over- Tel: +251 467750033 looking Lake Abaya to the north and Lake Chamo to the south. The town is the best Hotels in Turmi route to arrive at the country’s famous Buska Lodge southern tourist destinations, including Tel: +251 468840717/16, +251 111567837 Konso and the Lower Omo Valley.

Email: info@buskalodge.com

Arba Minch

Arbaminch Hotel Tel: +251 468810206 Arbaminch Tourist Hotel Tel: +251 468812171, +251 468813662 Email: tourist.hotel@yahoo.com Highland Rendevouz Pension Tel: +251 468811721, +251 916766820

178

Evangadi Lodge Tel: +251 468 84 0739/33 Email: dario@greenlandtoursandhotels.com

Hotels in Mizan Teferi Berhan Hotel Tel: +251 473350337

South/ West

Hotels

Salayish Millennium Hotel Tel: +251 473350865, +251911464525

Hotels in Tepi

Ahadu Hotel Tel: +251 475560338 Tigist Hotel Tel: +251 475560227

West Hotels in Nekemt

Mati Resort Tel: +251 913414615

Nekemt9°5’N 36°33’E

Located in western Ethiopia, 328km from Addis Abeba, at an elevation of 2,088m.

Oromia Hotel Tel: +251 576611986 Wolega Ethiopia Hotel Tel: +251 576611088/1803 Wogagen Hotel Tel: +251 576611508, +251 576611511

Hotels in Jimma

Central Jimma Hotel Tel: +251 4711182183 Degitu Hotel Tel: +251 461110593 Honeyland Hotel Tel: +251 0471 111515, +251 911207471 Email: honeylandh@yahoo.com

Jimma 7°40’N 36°50’E

Jimma is the largest city in southwestern Ethiopia, located 346km from Addis Abeba in Jimma Zone, Oromia Regional State. Places of interest to visit: Palace of Abba Jifar.

Syf Hotel Tel: +251 471117738, +251 471120440 Email: info@syfhoteljimma.com Wolde Argaw Hotel Tel: +251 471112731/33

Hotels in Gambella

Arenguwade Hotel Tel: +251 475510426, +251 911671739 Baro Gambella Hotel Tel: +251 475510044 www. development.com Etang Hotel Tel: +251 911031712 Park Hotel Tel:+251 917804998

Gambella 8°15’N 34°35’E

Gambella is the capital of Gambella Regional State. It is located 766km west of Addis Abeba. It has an elevation of 526m above sea level. The Anuak and Nuer tribes are the major inhabitants.

Hotels in Assosa

Africa Hotel Tel: +251 577751507 Bamboo Paradise Hotel Tel: +251 577752923, +251 920585841 Equatorial Hotel Tel: +251 577750152, +251 9117986261 Nekemt Ber Hotel Tel: +251 577751068 Sunset Hotel Tel: +251 577751852, +251911825197 Zemenawi Hotel Tel: +251 577751809, +251911977234

Asosa 10°04’N 34°31’E

Asosa is a town in western Ethiopia 675km from Addis Abeba. It is the capital of Benishangul Gumuz Regional State. It has an elevation of 1,570m above sea level.

Gibe Ethiopia Hotel Tel: +251 471110071/73

179

Ethiopian

cuisine

The staple food of choice for most Ethiopians (except for those that live in the far south and west) is “Injera”, a large, porous and circular flat bread, produced by fermenting the nutritious local grain “Teff ”, which is highly rich in complex carbohydrates and proteins, and baking it in a special wood or electric stove (Mitad) used exclusively for this purpose.

Injera, which is served with accompanying stews or curries known as “Wot”, is eaten using only one’s hands so try and refrain the urge to tackle it with cutlery in public places since that might invite stares or even friendly reproach from locals. The traditional way to eat Injera is by cutting off a piece from the edge of the plate using your fingers and scooping up a proportional amount of Wot or any other placed in its midst. Do not be surprised if you or someone around you is offered a “Gursha” which is a customary sign of respect and kinship accomplished by hand-feeding someone else (usually a family member or honored guest) with a single morsel of Injera and Wot.

• Alcoholic Beverages • Coffee • Foreign cuisine 184

There are generally two classifications of Wot, namely AlichaWot and Kay Wot. Most foreigners prefer the milder flavored and yellow colored Alicha, since it is easier on the tender palate than the spicy, pepper infused Kay (red in Amharic) Wot. The official national dish of Ethiopia (and arguably the best) is Doro (chicken) Wot, a favorite of many, consisting of delicately stewed limbs of chicken in Kay Wot. There are also Siga (meat) Wots which can be either beef or mutton according to your preference.

On fasting seasons or days (Wednesday and Friday), Orthodox Christian Ethiopians favor vegetarian dishes or Wots, in fact the faithful avoid all animal products (with the exception of fish) on Lent as well. Most restaurants offer the vegan dish “Beyaynetu” on fasting and non-fasting days. Beyaynetu is Amharic for “mixture” and as the name implies it is a combination of several bean and lentil based Wots (Shiro for bean puree and Misir for lentil) plus cabbages, salads and other vegetable dishes served on one large plate of Injera from which several people may eat all at once.

Aside from Injera and Wot which is a diet associated with the highlands, there are also several other local dishes worth checking out such as Kitfo; minced meat infused with generous helpings of spicy butter served with a side dish of dry cottage cheese and cooked cabbages as well as square shaped pieces of “Kocho” bread made from the fibers of the false banana tree (Inset). When you order Kitfo, don’t forget to specify how you want it cooked, there are three variations, Tire (raw) which is not recommended for first timers, Leb-Leb (medium rare) and Tibs (well done). You can also go for Gored-Gored, which is similar to Kitfo in that it is marinated in Mitmita (hot chili powder) and butter but instead of chopping the meat to mince, it is cut into medium-sized cubes.

Another national dish, highly sought at holidays or outings by locals, is Tire Siga (Raw meat). If you come across someone slicing off raw pieces of meat, dipping it in a red condiment called Awaze and proceeding to devour the morsel, resist the urge to be put off since you might find that it is perfectly delicious. This simple, if perhaps crude, delicacy has peaked the curiosity of many a Ferenji (foreigner) and even though the risk of catching tapeworms has in recent years dropped dramatically thanks to tougher restrictions on health and hygiene of slaughter houses and vaccinations of cattle, Tire Siga is a meal best left to sturdier bellies.

For breakfast, you might want to try one of several lighter dishes such as Chechebsa – pieces of flat bread mixed with butter and Berbere (chili powder), Genfo – a special wheat porridge encompassing a mix of liquid butter and Berbere which serves as a dip, as well as Firfir – chopped up pieces of Injera soaked in sauce or Wot. Snacks of Kolo, which is roasted seeds of grains such as peas and wheat, is a healthy way to keep your teeth busy and pass the time especially on long car or bus trips. If you have Ethiopian friends, they might offer you some “Chiko” when you go on a long journey. This cube shaped butter and barley snack is sweetened with salt which gives it a sour yet pleasing effect on the taste buds and is best served cold.

185

Alcoholic Beverages

Traditional alcoholic beverages are all very easy to come by to compliment the local food. The most favored Ethiopian drink that is never too far from tables at weddings, holidays and other feasting occasions is “Tej”, a yellow-colored mead prepared by fermenting honey which has a sweet taste but packs a bit of a punch. “Tej” is usually sipped from a circular glass flask made especially for this purpose called a “Birile” and traditional “TejBet”s have always been the rural Ethiopian version of a bar but it should be mentioned that these venues are usually filled with mostly male customers.

Other alcoholic drinks include the home brewed beer “Tella”, dark in color and sour on the tongue. Tella is the mildest of Ethiopian beverages while the liquor “Areke” which is a colorless local equivalent of Vodka, is a strong spirit which can wreak havoc on your lungs if drunk too quickly.

Coffee

But the pride and heritage of all Ethiopians remains on the exhilarating beverage which the whole world loves so much…Coffee. It is now almost a known fact that coffee originated in Ethiopia. Local legend has it that a goat herd named Kaldi first discovered the effects of the fruit by observing how excited his goats grew after consuming it. After trying some himself, he then offered it to monks who started using coffee to stay awake during long nightly vigils.

Today, Ethiopian Arabica Coffee has gotten the international recognition it deservesand is exported all over the world. In fact, coffee exports are the major foreign currency earnings for the country. The Ethiopian Commodity Exchange (ECX) oversees the exports of not only coffee but also of other agricultural exports that leave the country and ensures that the produce is properly stored, shipped and certified.

The coffee ceremony is an integral piece of Ethiopian culture which has been around for a very long time indeed. Having some coffee in the Ethiopian style is the farthest thing from grabbing a quick cup at Starbucks or any other café but rather an elaborate ritual of sorts which begins with roasting the beans over a coal brazier and offering a sniff of the smoke from the roasting beans to gathered guests after which the beans are ground up and the powder boiled in a special black pot called a “Jebena”, which has a round base from which protrudes a small pout for pouringand a long neck for adding the water and the powdered beans.

It is not unusual for those gathered for a typical Ethiopian coffee ceremony to drink two or three cups of the stimulating beverage in one sitting. The first cup is the most potent while the second and third are more diluted. You can usually find a traditional coffee ceremony taking place wherever your travels take you be it at a hotel, exhibitions or even at the airport as long as you keep an eye out for the burning of incense and the distinctive white cups arranged neatly in front of an attending lady.

The best coffee houses in town are the famous Kaldis Coffee (which you probably will find one of the numerous branches all over Addis Abeba), the new Modca Coffee on a side street from Medhane Alem to Haya Hulet road and Tomoca off Churchill Avenue close to Lideta Catholic Cathedral.

186

Foreign cuisine

Restaurants specializing in all sorts of international cooking are not hard to find in the capital. While most specialize in foods from specific countries some, such as the Diplomat Restaurant on Bole road feature a chef from a different part of the world each month.

Some of the best dining locations are to be found inside hotels, such as in the Sheraton, Hilton and Capital, the Indian Restaurant at The Dreamliner Hotel close to Mesqel Flower, just off bole road, is famous for its service and excellent cooking, while Sangham, on Bole Road next to Mega Building, is another good Indian joint.

The Lucy Lounge and Restaurant in Amist Kilo next to the National Museum is well known for its Ethiopian and European dishes. The Four Seasons is a good Japanese restaurant close to Bole Medhane Alem and there is also a Korean restaurant, Han Kuk, on the corner next to Atlas Hotel. The Chinese restaurant inside the Concorde Hotel or Jin long, a Chinese restaurant on the road leading from Bole Medhane Alem to Atlas Hotel is another good choice for oriental dining.

Castelli’s, located in Piazza and Top View on the hills of Megenagna are renowned for serving fine Italian Cuisine, while Island Breeze, which is just up the street across from the old post office also deserves mention. Antica and Green View, close to the European Commission offices near Atlas Hotel, Don Vito’s on Yolly building and MK’s by Bole Medhane Alem are also recommended for Italian food.

Other good dining spots include Amsterdam Restaurant, Lime Tree on Bole road, Family Restaurant near Bisrate Gabriel church in Old Airport and Enya’s Kitchen on the Bole Medhane Alem to Atlas road. Fusion Bistro which is located on the road from Edna Mall to Bole road and Rigel on Gulf Aziz plaza of the same location serves good Middle Eastern and European dishes while Istanbul, further down on the same road, does the same.

For all your fast food needs, visit My Burger which is conveniently located on the ground floor of Medhane Alem building next to Edna Mall. This one of a kind establishment is famous for its wide range of dining choices from classic Ethiopian breakfasts to fresh baked pastries and pizzas. My Burger also has some of the best coffee, chicken and juice in town while their wireless internet and 24-hour efficient self-service are just a bonus.

187

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Chinese Cuisine

188

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Chinese Cuisine

189

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Ethiopian Traditional Cuisine

190

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Ethiopian Traditional Cuisine

191

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Italian/International Cuisine

192

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Italian/International Cuisine

193

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Ethiopian Traditional Cuisine

194

Addis abeba

Restaurants - European Cuisine

195

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Japanese / Greek Cuisine

196

Addis abeba

Restaurants - French Cuisine

197

Addis abeba

Restaurants - International Cuisine

198

Addis abeba

Restaurants - International Cuisine

199

Addis abeba

Restaurants - International Cuisine

200

Addis abeba

Restaurants - International Cuisine

201

Addis abeba

Restaurants - International Cuisine

202

Addis abeba

Restaurants - International Cuisine

203

Addis abeba

Restaurants - International Cuisine

Road Runner Bar & Restaurant

- European Dishes - Pizza - Choice of Salads - Ethiopian Traditional Foods and much more

Running Ahead of the field

Tel: +251 91 169 1773, Location:- Hayahulet Next to Dinberwa Hospital

204

Addis abeba

Restaurants - International Cuisine

205

Addis abeba

Restaurants - International Cuisine

206

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Indian Cuisine

207

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Italian Cuisine

208

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Korean Cuisine

209

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Mediterranean Cuisine

210

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Sea - food

211

Addis abeba

Restaurants - Yemeni Cuisine

212

Addis abeba

Pizzeria

213

Addis abeba

Fast Foods

214

Addis abeba

Fast Foods

215

Addis abeba

Fast Foods

216

Addis abeba

Restaurants Listing

Cuisine Group-African

Cuisine Group- Asian

9-Ja Food and Cultural Center Gazebo Restaurant Tel : +251 920309004, +251 920472920 Tel: +251 115518400 ext. 953 Location: opposite AU

Location:Hilton Addis Abeba Hotel Caribo Restaurant Tel:+251 911376419 Cuisine Group- Chinese Location:Sar Bet, opposite Vatican Embassy China Bar and Restaurant Jacaranda Restaurant Tel: +251 115513772 Tel:+251 115518400 ext. 986 Location:Stadium Location:Hilton Addis Abeba Hotel China Great Wall Restaurant La Case African Bar & Restaurant Tel: +251 114169145 Tel: +251 911083514 Location:Lancia Location:Mexico-Kera, near old BulgarChina Paradise Restaurant ian Embassy Tel:+251 114670635 Location:Lancia, Concorde Hotel Chinese Specialized Ten Ten Restaurant Cuisine Group-American Tel: +251 116624335, 0912935200 Location:Bole, near Millennium Hall Sishu Restaurant Da Tang China Restaurant Tel: +251 911145358, +251 913081160 Tel: +251 116299888 Location:off Churchil Avenue, near Location:Gerji, near NOC Fuel Station National Theater East Dragon Restaurant Tel: Cuisine Group- Arabic Location:Bole Medhane Alem Sichuan Chinese Restaurant Nakhlah Restaurant Tel: +251 91 160 3926 Tel: +251 115516047,+251912012560 Location: Kasanchis Johny bldg 1st floor +251 911 026666 Location:Wollo Sefer-Goterra Road Sze-Chwan Restaurant Reem Restaurnat Tel: +251 116635383/84, Tel: +251 911226996 Location:Haya Hulet Location:Megenagna near Lem Hotel Sunshine China Restaurant Sharjah Specialized Arabian Restaurnat Tel: Tel: +251 112781967 Location:Bole Medhane Alem Location:Gulelle

Cuisine Group- Armenian Aladdin Restaurant Tel :+251 116614109 Email: t_kevorkian@hotmail.com Location: Bole, near Japan Embassy

Cuisine Group- Ethiopian

Alem Café and Restaurant Tel: +251 911104329 Location: Saris, near Kadisco Bemnet Bar & Restaurant Tel: +251 911643280, +251 114162204 Location:Beklo Bet

217

Addis abeba

Restaurants Listing

Fasika Restaurant Tel:+251 115509912, +251 115514193 Location:Flamingo Habesha Restaurant Tel:+251 115518358 Location:Bole Hiber Cultural Restaurant Tel:+251 116620922/21 Location:Bole, opposite Boston Partners Cuisine Group- Ethiopian Kategna Restaurant Traditional Tel:+251 116510535, +251 911969716 Locations: Bole, Near Mesqel Flower Hotel 2000 Habesha Traditional Restaurant Shangari-la Traditional Restaurant Tel:+251 116182253/56 Tel:+251 116632424/25 Location:Bole Medhane Alem Location:Bole Atlas Addis Abeba Restaurant Teshomech Kitfo Tel:+251 111113513/11 Tel:+251 116182424 Location:Piazza Locations: Off Haya Hulet Road to Bole Bekelech Kitfo Medhane Alem ,Wollo Sefer Location:off Haya Hulet Road toward Totot Cultural Restaurant Bole Medhane Alem Tel:+251 911236212 Bata Traditional Restaurant Location:Gerji, Anbessa Garage Tel:+251 116631096 Yegenye Kitfo Location:Bole Tel:+251 116610371, +251 911233463 Dashen Restaurant Location:Haya Hulet Tel:+251 115529746, +251 116556437 Yeshi Buna Location:Ambassador, behind Genderal Tel:+251 115507365, +251 116612488 Post Office Location: Multiple Locations Desalech Kitfo and Traditional Hall Yod Abyssinia Cultural Restaurant Tel:+251 911231859 Tel:+251 116612985, +251 113720607 Location: Bole, opposite the airport Locations: Bole Medhane Alem, Sar Bet Dima Cultural Restaurant Yohannes Kitfo Tel:+251 911575089 Location: off Hayal Hulet Road toward Location:Bisrate Gabriel Bole Medhane Alem

Enset Traditional Resaturant Yohemia Cultural Center Tel:+251 114167769 Tel:+251 111554458 Location:Olympia, near Mesqel Flower Location:No. 1 Piazza, No. 2 Mickey Leyland Ensira Restaurant St Tel: +251 911 68 1357, 653611 Location:Chechnya, Mickey Leyland St Elfign Traditional Restaurant Tel:+251 911244322 Location:Bole Medhane Alem Eyoha Traditional Restaurant Tel:+251 911207901, +251 114669667 Location:Wollo Sefer-Goterra Road Blue Drops Bar and Restaurant Tel:+251 116615714 Location: Bole Medhanealem Frank Addis Restaurant and Bar Tel:+251 115541185, +251 115541186 Location:Olympia, behind Ethiopian Investment Agency

218

Addis abeba

Restaurants Listing

Cuisine Group- International

Kuriftu Diplomat Restaurant Tel:+251 116184363, +251920959697 Aarabon Recreation Center Plc Location:Bole Tel: +251 11 372 4368 Ede Bar and Restaurant Location: old airport area 100 m from Tel:+251 116623290 bisrate gabriel in front of Home depot Location:Haile Gebrselassie Avenue, near Addis London Café Rebecca Building Tel:+251 116634848 Friendship Bar and Restaurant Location:Bole Medhane Alem Tel:+251 116639850 Amesterdam Bar and Restaurant Location:Bole Tel:+251 116613493 Garden Court Restaurant Location:Bole, opposite Millennium Hall Tel:+251 116620922/21 Backyard Restaurant and Wine Bar Location: Bole

Tel: +251 11 8309130 , + 251 11467 3501 Garden Paradise Restaurant Location: Tel:+251 113720065 Bon Café and Restaurant Location:Sar Bet, Adams Pavlion Tel:+251 11 8602662 Gazebo Restaurant Location:Bole, opposite Saay Pastry Tel:+251 115518400 ext. 953 Breezes Restaurant Location:inside Hilton Addis Abeba Tel:+251 115171717 ext. 6103 Hera Fast Food Restaurant and Bar Location:Arat Kilo, inside Sheraton Addis Tel:+251 114655316 Bunni Café, Restaurant, and Internet Location:Beklo Bet lounge Tel:+251 911828985 Intercontinental Addis Hotel Location: Beklo Bet, on the rooftop of Tel:+251 115505066, +251 115180-444 Chilalo Building Location: Casanchis Canaan Restaurant and Pizzeria Island Breeze Restaurant Tel: +251 911234373, +251 930003720 Tel:+251 1114790, +251 913010976 Location: Bole, opposite Millennium Location:Piazza Hall/ old airport near Minaye Building KG Corner Café and Restaurant Carnivore Addis Tel:+251 111118426, +251 911860994 Tel:+251 115541330/31 Location:Piazza Location: Haile Gebrselassie Avenue, Dil Bldg. Liquid Lounge Cottage Restaurant Tel:+251 913080404 Tel:+251 115516359 Location:Casanchis, Nigist Towers Location:Ambasador, next to 7th Day Le Grand Reve Adventist Church Tel:+251 912498878 Cork Wine Bar and Restaurant Location:Bole Atlas Tel: +251 11 660 3535 Lime Tree Restaurant and Café Location: Megenagna Tel:+251 116630872 Cloud 9 Restaurant and Café Locations:Bole and Casanchis Tel:+251 115548033 Lucy Gazebo Tel:+251 111118116 Location: Casanchis Location:Amist Kilo, National Museum Dembel Dome Restaurant New York, New York Tel:+251 115150053/57 Tel:+251 115151243, +251 116558485 Location:Olympia, Dembel City Center Location:Olympia, Assay Building

219

Addis abeba

Restaurants Listing

Rico’s Bar and Restaurant Zebra Grill 2 Tel:+251 115539462 Tel:+251 115545616, +251 924306812 Location: Olympia Location:Olympia, Bedesta Bldg. 9th Floor Rigel Restaurant Zebra Grill 3 Tel: +251 11 667 0368 ,+251 11 662 9788 Tel:+251 116479070 Location: Gulf Aziz bldg, ground 2nd Location:CMC Road, south side, after floor, Bole Around Edna mall NOC, before CMC compound Sabana’s Restaurant Cuisine Group- French Tel. +251 11461191181 Email: info@sabanalangano.com La Mandoline website: www.sabanalangano.com Tel:+251 116629482, +251 921328507 Road Runner Bar, & Restaurant Location:Bole Medhane Alem Tel:+251 116635026 La Petit French Restaurant Location: Haya Hulet, Dinberwa Hospital Tel:+251 115549043 Rodeo Addis Bar and Restaurant Location:Alliance Ethio-Francaise Tel:+251 115510694 Le Phoenix Location:Bole, opposite Shoa Shopping Tel:+251 115154981, +251 911365340 Center Location: Olympia Roof Top Restaurant Loti Restaurant Tel:+251 116635920 Tel:+251 113729254, +251 113202838 Location: Bole, TK building Location:Bisrate Gabriel Samet Restaurant Lelyse Specialized French Restaurant Tel:+251 113710317 Tel:+251 913513760 Location:Bisrate Gabriel Location:Bole Sami Café and Restaurant Verres en vers Restaurant (Radisson Blu) Tel:+251 113481788/89 Tel: +251 115157600 Location:Tor Hailoch, Ayer Tena Location: Casanchis Samket Restaurant and Café Tel:+251 911402770 Cuisine Group- Greek Location:off Bole Road toward Rwanda Enya’s Mediterranean Kitchen Second Cup Restaurant and Bar Tel:+251 912795876 Tel:+251 911403885 Location:Bole Medhane Alem, opposite Location:Meshwalekia Sheger House Summerfields Greek Club Tel:+251 115171717 ext. 6089 Location:Arat Kilo, inside Sheraton Addis Tel:+251 115516728 Location:Olympia Variety Restaurant and Café Santorini Greek Restaurant Tel: +251 11 618 0035 Location: opposite Bole Medhane Alem Tel:+251 911653301 Location:Beklo Bet, near Greek Embassy Velvet Restaurant and Pastry Tel:+251 115531035, +251 913862694 Cuisine Group- Indian Location: Olympia, opposite Tommy Tower Zebra Grill 1 Jewel Of India Restaurant Tel:+251116623630, +251 911209600 Tel:+251 115513154, +251 911200230, Location: 22, near St Gabriel Hospital Location: Olympia

220

Addis abeba

Restaurants Listing

Khyber Indian and Chinese Restaurant Tel:+251 115507777 Location:Bambis, inside De Leopol Hotel Kssir PLC Indian Restaurant (Tabla) Tel:+251 912939669 Location:opposite Bole Homes, around Renaissance Apartment Sangam Indian Restaurant Tel:+251 11 551 8976, +251 91 1214183 Location:Bole, opposite Peacock Shaheen Tel:+251 115171717 ext. 6002 Location:Inside Sheraton Addis Zaika Indian Restaurant Tel:+251 114674000 Location: Olympia, Dreamliner Hotel

Cuisine Group- Italian

Green View Restaurant and Pizzeria Tel:+251 116636247 Location:Bole Atlas, Salfaz Building Il Caminetto Restaurant Tel:+251 116625587 Location:Bole Makush Italian Restaurant Tel:+251 115526848/55 Location:Bole, Mega House Pasta Restaurant Tel:+251 114390516 Location: Kality, opposite NOC Stagioni Tel:+251 115171717 ext 6002 Location:Inside Sheraton Addis Tivoli Pizza Coffee Bar Tel:+251 113203918 Location:Bisrate Gabriel Top View Restaurant Tel:+251 116511573/7 Location: uphill from Megenagna

Antica Restaurant Tel:+251 116634841, +251 116615815 Location:off Bole Road, toward EU Cuisine Group- Japanese Arcobaleno Restaurant Tel:+251 113713257 Four Seasons Japanese Restaurant Location:Mekanisa, near Vatican Tel:+251 11 810 2554 , +251 91 116 1889 Avanti Restaurant Location: road from Getahun Besha to Tel:+251 912086174, +251 911522660 Bole High School Location:Bole, opposite Airport Customs Castelli Restaurant Cuisine Group- Korean Tel:+251 111571757, +251 111563580 Arirang Korean Restaurant Location: Piazza Tel:+251 113204606 Ciao Italian Restaurant Location: Old Airport Tel:+251 114161431 Han Kuk Korean Restaurant Email: queenofgenet@gmail.com Tel:+251 921335949 Location:Beklo Bet Location:Bole, Atlas

Di Napoli Restaurant Rainbow Korean Restaurant Tel: +251 111 5089 , +251 91 121 4056 Tel:+251 116631318, +251 116637964 Location: Piazza Location:Bole Road, Rwandan Embassy Don Vito Restaurnat Tel:+251 116184500 Cuisine Group- Lebanese Location:Mickey Leyland St Yoly Bldg.

Esosia Italian Restaurant Al Sultan Lebanese Restaurant Tel:+251 114661821, +251 911208821, Tel:+251 116620070 +251 911201882 Location:off Bole Road, near Atlas Location:Beklo Bet Hotel

221

Addis abeba

Restaurants Listing

Lebanese Restaurant Tel:+251 115153714 Location:Wollo Sefer to Goterra Road

Cuisine Group- Mediterranian

South Rift Valley Bar & Restaurant Tel: +251 91 151 4543

Cuisine Group- Sudanese

Dodi Restaurant Tel:+251 912409666, +251 924000090 Enya’s Kitchen Email:dodicenper@yahoo.com Tel:+251 912 795876 Location:off Bole Road, opposite EU Location: Bole Medhane Alem, opposite Sudan Restaurant Sheger House Tel:+251 910605096 Fusion Bistro Location:Off Bole Road, opposite EU Tel:+251118300307 Location:Bole Medhanealem, Lucky Bldg.

Cuisine Group- Turkish Serenede Restaurant Tel:+251 911200072 Pamukkale Turkish Restaurant Location:SidIst Kilo Tel:+251 116616647 Location:Bole-EU Cuisine Group- Mexican Turkish Restaurant Location:off Bole Road, from Japanese Family Restaurant Embassy

Tel:+251 118500279 Location:Olympia, near WFP Cuisine Group- Yemeni

Cuisine Group- Portugese New Face of Addis Location:Megenagna, uphill from Top View

Cuisine Group- Seafood Les Arcades Tel:+251 115171717 ext 6604 Location:Arat Kilo, inside Sheraton Addis Jacaranda Restaurant Tel:+251 115518400 ext 986 Location:Casanchis, inside Hilton

222

Al-Yemen Al-Saeed Restaurant Tel:+251 913505058, +251 913787506 Location: Wollo Sefer-Goterra Road Bait Al Mendi Restaurant Tel:+251 920242424, +251 920929292 Location:Mickey Leyland St, opposite Yoly Bldg.

Sanaa Restaurant Tel:+251 911735651, +251 913467749 Location: Olympia

Addis abeba

Fast Food Joints & Pizzeria

Fast Food Joints

Cuisine Group - Pizzeria

Bole Mini Bruno Pizzeria Tel: +251 11 663 9898 Tel:+251 911204390 Location: Bole infront of Millennium Location:Olympia-Mesqel Flower Hall Efoy Chicken Hut Tel:+251 913325558/930012528 Tel:+251 118605500, +251 911210034 Location:Atlas, toward Chechnya Locations: multiple locations Grand Bakery Ero Shake Juice Tel:+251 911219518, +251 112771871 Tel: +251 911 115 1960 Location:Chechnya Location: 22 Getahun Besha to Green View Restaurant and Pizzeria Yohannes kitfo road Tel:+251 116636247 La Parisienne Location: Atlas Tel:+251 116182030, +251 116 631470 Metro Pizza Locations:Bole Alem Building, Near Bole Tel:+251 116531303, +251 911223786 Medhane Church, Bole Medhane Alem Location:Flamingo, behind Exhibition Sheger Building Center Lime Tree Restaurant and Café Pizza Corner Tel:+251 116630872 Tel:+251 115548998 Locations: Bole and Casanchis Locations: Piazza and Mexico London Café Pizza Deli Roma Tel:+251 116638115 Tel:+251 115511202 Location:inside airport Locations: Olympia and Mickey Leyland

St, Haimi Building Yummy Pizza Tel: +251 911220100, +251 911472598, +251 911602639 Location: Bole, near Japanese Embassy

Location: Medhanealem Mall Ground floor Passion Burger Tel:+251 116629492, +251 911203232, +251 911244322 Location: Bole, near Brass Hospital Roomi Burger Tel:+251 116633555, +251 921948089 Location: Atlas Tasty Foods Plc / Jolly Jus Tel +251 11 275 1556

Rigel Bakery Location:- Gulf Aziz Bldg. 6th floor, Bole Around Edna mall Tel: +251 11 667 0192, +251 11 667 0230, +251 11 662 9788 Fax: +251 11 667 0055, Email: info@rigeladdis.com, www.rigeladdis.com

223

From Its Origins in Kaffa, Here Comes Black Gold Coffee Another beverage that has more meaning than just a hot drink to Ethiopians is coffee. It is the province of Kaffa that gave birth to this black gold and lends its name to the beans and the drink. Legend has it that a shepherd, Kaldi, identified the effects of the beans on the goats he was looking after and was curious enough to taste it. Soon, it spread to local priests and monks who began chewing it to keep them awake during night time prayers. Eventually, coffee mania spread among the people. Besides what is available in cafes as a macchiato or just a cup of black coffee, coffee ceremony in traditional restaurants can be enjoyed while surrounded by friends and family.

Ethiopian coffee ceremony starts with preparing the ritual utensils, including rows of little cups set up on a stand, which is placed on the ground on top of long blades of freshly cut grass. The beans are then roasted in a small pan over a portable charcoal stove. As the black coffee pot (jebena) with its narrow spout heats the water for making the coffee, the coffee attendant grinds and pounds the roasted beans with a large mortar and pestle and puts the powder into the jebena, as the water starts to boil. Steam coming out through the spout shows that the coffee is ready. The jebena is taken off of the stove and laid to rest on a stand to cool down for a while.

The rich aroma of the coffee combines with the heady smell of incense burned right about this time. The coffee, the scenery, and the smells are very addicting. Unlike Western coffee drinking habits, a cup of jebena coffee cannot be grabbed on the way to work.

The ceremony takes time and participants are expected to drink more than one cup. In fact, it is customary to drink three cups of coffee along with a coffee breakfast (yebuna korse) of kolo, popcorn, or sometimes pita-like bread (kita) simmered in butter and berbere. Ethiopian coffee is sold in many parts of the world, so there is no need to worry about the fact that other coffees just won’t seem the same after drinking Ethiopian jebena coffee.

The Sweetest Things and More

Before the introduction of pastries and bakeries, Ethiopian dishes were not deserted of desserts. Fresh dripping honeycomb was served as a traditional dessert. The soothing sweetness of the honey helped to put out the fire of the spicy meal.

But, the flourishing of Addis Abeba, which has led Westerners to come and reside in the city, has brought in the delights of pastries and other sweets to Ethiopia. Today, pastries and bakeries are omnipresent in Addis Abeba. Africa Avenue is especially suffocated with the shops, which are now spilling over onto the road parallel to it, Bole Medhane Alem Road.

Ethiopian breads have distinct tastes. One type of traditional bread baked for the holidays is difo dabo. It is baked in a clay oven over a manure fire with the dough wrapped in false banana leaves. The smaller sized mulmul, which is baked during the Buhe Festival, also has an amazing taste. The thick pita-like kita or the thicker ambasha graces holidays and birthdays. Nowadays, ambasha and difo are available in many supermarkets. Dabo kolo is made from roasted pellets of wheat dough mixed with a little sugar, oil, and some food coloring but no yeast. Crunchy and delicious, it is also available in most supermarkets.

Addis abeba

Coffee shops

225

Addis abeba

Coffee shops

226

Addis abeba

Bakeries

227

Addis abeba

Pastries

228

Addis abeba

Pastries

229

Addis abeba

Cafés

230

Addis abeba

Cafés

231

Addis abeba

Coffee shops

Coffee Shops, Pastries, and Bakeries Alem Buna Tel: +251 114662537, +251 114662239 +251 911201597 Locations: Piazza, Casanchis, and Bole Bean Addis Tel: Location:Bole Bilo’s Pastry Tel: +251 114169667/68 Locations: Lancia, CMC, Sar Bet, Bole Bloom Café Tel: Location:Mesqel Square Café Limmu Tel: +251 92 072 4221 Location: Nega city Mall, Ground floor Café Tuba Tel: +251 11 830 1054 Location: Gerji Cupcake Delights Bakery Tel: Kabu Coffee Location:Bole Medhanealem, Robel Plaza Tel:+251 911461318, +251 116622024/25 Crocodile Café & Restaurant Location:Atlas to Bole Medhane Alem Tel:+251 115530467 Road Location:Biherawi Kaldi’s Coffee Denver Café Tel:+251 1166384556, +251 113716565 Tel:+251 11552216/6, +251 116180122/24 Kebe Pastry Locations: Casanchis and Bole Tel:+251 116188810, +251 116613170 Downtown Café and Restaurant Location: Bole Medhane Alem, near Moenco Tel:+251 114160680, +251 923283841/42 La Parisienne Location:Gofa Mazoria Tel:+251 115528820, +251 116182030, Enrico Pastry +251 116 631470 Tel:+251 111571490 Locations:Olympia, Bole Alem Building, Location:Piazza, Enrico Building Bole Medhane Alem Sheger Building Grand Bean Coffee Mulmul Bakery Tel:+251 116626275 Tel:+251 11 618 2866/ +251 11 470 0375 Location:Haile Gebrselassie Street, near Location: Bisrate Gebriel, Bole, 22 maGetahun Besha zoria, Gerji, Mesqel Flower Gourmet Café & Restaurant Pit Stop Tel:+251 116517984, +251 911638648 Tel: +251 11 552 0202 Location:Haya Hulte-Dinberwa Hospital Location:Dembel City Center ,Ground Floor

232

Addis abeba

PASTRIES AND Bakeries

Spirit Ice cream Saay Pastry Tel: +251 91 16 7 4956 Tel:+251 116611121, +251 116188000 Locations: Bole and Haya Hulet Selihom Café and Restaurant Tel:+251 116451813, +251 911676954 Location:Megenagna, opposite Nyala Motors Location: Medhanealem Mall Ground Time Café (Hawassa) floor Tel:+251 462 206 331, +251 916 581 355 Email: MK77@yahoo.com Location:Piazza, opposite St Gebreal Church Tomoca Tel:+251 111112498 Location:Piazza, near Cathedral Sun Bird Café Tel:+251 116181383 Location:Bole, TK building Zola Café and Restaurant Tel:+251 116632520 Locations: Bole and Bole Medhane Alem Bruno’s Ice Cream Tel:+251 116671364, +251 911488248 Location:Bole Medhane Alem, near Moenco Igloo Ice Cream Tel:+251 251911002444, +251 116626275 Location:off Bole Road, near Japanese Embassy Smoothie Delight Ice Cream Location:Bole, opposite Shoa Shopping Center

233

Nightlife Nightlife

Addis is just as mesmerizing by night as it is by day. There are many vantage points throughout the city where one can enjoy the scenic landscape all lit up. Top View, the Italian Restaurant on the hills surrounding the north eastern most end of the city near Megenagna is just the spot to relish a nice dinner and a glass of wine while taking in the spectacular view.

The main cultural attraction to be had by night is undoubtedly the traditional singing and dancing shows which Addis and other cities such as Bahir-dar are known for. The traditional dance of highlanders, especially Amharas is the enthralling shoulder-pumping, chest-shaking dance called “Eskista”, which many foreigners find it particularly curious and entertaining.

The fluidity and beauty of the dance stems partly from the versatile and nimble motions of the graceful dancers but also from the undulating rhythm of the music, which is composed of traditional skin drums, the multi-stringed “Kirar” (which is somewhat similar to the harp) and the “Masinko”, a single stringed Ethiopian version of the violin which is played by holding the instrument with one hand across the chest while the other hand wields a curved bow or fiddlestick to wrestle out a very unique and high-pitched sound from the instrument. Another traditional musical instrument to be found at any one of these cultural shows is the “Washint”, a flute carved out of bamboo which emits a slightly piercing sound much like the “Masinko”.

The “Hibir Ethiopia” around Africa Avenue or Bole road is a favored destination for tourists and city dwellers alike to enjoy a night of dancing and entertainment in Addis Abeba, and “Lucy Lounge” in 5 Kilo next to the National Museum features an unparalleled display of the music and dance of many Ethiopian ethnic groups almost every night. “Yod-Abyssinia” chain of restaurants (one near the airport behind Bras Hospital and another by Old Airport area) is also worth visiting as is “2000 Habesha” which is on the street from Bole Medhane Alem to Atlas Hotel.

An even more traditional night out would be a visit to one of several “Azamari Bet”s which translates loosely to “house of rhyme” among which “Fendika” in Kasanchis is the most famous. At these venues, an age old custom of musicians’ banter is played out, it is typically a back and forth between a singing woman and a man who plays out short complimentary tunes from a “Masinko” while also singing. The musicians usually start out by making fun of each other and then turn to customers who are offered the chance to try their hand at the jesting by suggesting lyrics that poke fun at their friends

238

which the “Azmari” reiterates, turning the show into an improvised musical spectacle, entertaining to watch even if you have no knowledge of Amharic.

Addis and other major cities such as Hawassa, Nazareth, Mekelle and Bahirdar also sport modern night clubs and bars for anyone looking to have a night out in the town.

If you are in Addis Abeba and want to enjoy a nice exotic cocktail, Jolly bar right next to the Arat Kilo round about is a classy spot where you can enjoy good music and lounge.

To enjoy live western music with cocktails head over to the classical Sheba Lounge inside Hilton and the Gallery and Skyline Lounges inside the Capital Hotel. Other live music hosting venues include Mama’s Kitchen in DH Geda Building on Bole road, Harmony Hotel behind Edna mall or The Office Bar inside Sheraton Addis. The Sheraton also houses Gaslight, one of the best nightclubs in the city while Yolly Hotel which is located in the area locally referred to as “Chechnya” on Mikey Leyland Street is home to Club H20, the biggest club in town.

The Suba lounge on Ethio-China Friendship Avenue (Wolosefer) is arguably one of the best equipped lounges in Addis Ababa but you might also want to check out smaller and cozier joints such as the Black Rose on Boston Partners Building on Bole Road and Flirt lounge behind Edna Mall. The Backyard on the ring road leading south from the airport is a new bar and restaurant with a comfortable feel.

Besides these establishments, regularly held concerts and music festivals such as the Acacia Jazz Festival, which is held bi-annually at the Floral Tropical Gardens and other artistic events organized by International and local institutions and promoters are becoming more and more frequent. The alliance Ethio-Française is especially active in organizing such events which range from contemporary dance to purely African music.

Another hidden gem of the night life scene in Addis is live jazz. A local variation of jazz music, namely Ethio-Jazz, has been around for decades and has gained international acclaim for its inventor, the very talented Ethiopian musician, composer and producer, Mulatu Astatke. Mulatu’s music is a very refined blend of Ethiopian and Western jazz styles and one of his albums has even been featured as a sound track on the modern Holly wood classic, Broken Flowers starring Bill Murray. You can get a taste of Mulatu Astatke’s music at the African Jazz Mender Club inside Ghion Hotel.

Several other establishments have in recent years moved to incorporate jazz music as a permanent fixture in their nightly entertainment schedules. The Jupiter Hotel on Bole Road behind DH Geda Mall is one such venue while Jazz Amba, located inside the historic Taitu Hotel, which was the very first hotel in Ethiopia, is undoubtedly the place to visit to enjoy modern Ethiopian Jazz.

239

Addis abeba

Nightlife

240

Addis abeba

Nightlife

241

Addis abeba

Nightlife

Capital Hotel and Spa Ayu Restaurant and Nightclub Tel: +251 11 667 2100 Tel: +251 115535561 Location: Haile G/Selase Avenue Location: Casanchis, opposite Nigist Towers Calypso Bar & Restaurant Black Rose Lounge Tel: +251 116625607 Tel: +251 116639884 Location:Mike Leyland Street Location: Bole

Champion Lounge Sports Bar Boudoir Elite Tel: +251 911652975 Tel: +251 911671845 Location:Olympia Location:Imperial, near Save the Children Club Alize UK Tel: +251 116639884, +251 Buffet De La Gare 913967612,+251 911201859 Tel: +251 115517888 Location: Bole Location:La Gare

242

Addis abeba

Nightlife

Club Illusion Coffee House Tel: +251 114401625, +251 911661365, Tel: +251 111226466, +251 911680895 Location:Ambasador Location: Sidist Kilo Club H2O Ensra Traditional Bar & Restaurant Tel: +251 911653611 Tel: +251 11 663 2828 Location:Mickey Leyland Street Location: Mikey Leyland Street Flirt Lounge Club Voltage Tel: +251912500471,+251911862911, Tel: Location:Bole Medhane Alem area, Lucky Location: Casanchis, Intercontinental Bldg.

Hotel

243

Addis abeba

Nightlife

Signature Bar and Lounge Gaslight Sheraton Tel: +251 913884588, +251 911414444 Tel: +251 115171717 ext. 6893 Location:Arat Kilo, Sheraton Addis Hotel Location:Olympia, on the road to Bambis Stockholm Bar Harar Mesob Tel: +251 116189783 Tel: Location: Bole, near Saay Pastry Location:Wollo Sefer Suba Lounge Hari’s Cigar Bar and Lounge Tel: Tel: +251 115539995 Location: Wolo Sefer, KT building Location:Wollo Sefer, Tebaber Building The Dome Club Hat Trick Sports Bar Tel: +251 11 4 654959 Tel: +251 911605243 Location: Lancia, Debre Zeit Road Location:Bole Medhane Alem Location: Lancia, inside Hotel Concorde Hilton Addis The Mask Pub Tel: +251 11 517 0000 Tel: +251 116631102 Location: Location: Bole, behind DH Geda Jazzamba Lounge The Park Night Club Tel: +251 912047614 Tel: +251 116638768 Location: Piazza, inside Taitu Hotel Location: Bole Medhane Alem Next to Jolly Bar and Grill Edna Mall Tel: +251930004057, +251 93004058 Vibration Cocktail Bar Location:Arat Kilo Kitfo Tel: +251 913166211 La Gazelle Piano Bar Location:Olympia, Aberus Complex Tel: +251 116614504 Vuvuzela Location:Bole, near Novis Tel: +251 911399831 Le Tam Tam African Club Location:off Bole Road toward the EU Location: Beklo Bet, Global Hotel Lucy Lounge and Resturant Tel:+251 91260 2706 Azmari Betoch Location: Amist kilo next to National Fendika Museum Location:Casanchis, next to Sojat Car Liquid Lounge Décor Tel: +251 913080404 Yiwedal Location: Casanchis, Nigist Towers Area: Casanchis, opposite Jupiter Trading Memo Club Masinko Bet Tel: +251 115519887 Area: Bole, opposite Brass Hospital Location:Flamingo, behind Exhibition Center Balageru Location:Bahir Dar

Roha Bar and Restaurant Che Che Ho Traditional Center Tel: +251 911603164, +251 911630959 Location: Wolo Sefer, opposite Tebaber Berta Location:Bahir Dar / Addis Abeba Hamelmal Cultural Club Sefer Bar Location:Bahir Dar

Tel: +251 911948371 Location: Bole Medhane Alem, near Moenco Balageru Traditional House Location:Gondar Select Pub and Restaurant Tel: +251 116517318, +251 911440759 Location: Bole, opposite SOS village

244

Addis abeba

Nightlife

245

Shopping

Shopping

Shopping

Markets

Home to one of the biggest open markets in the world, “Mercato” (market in Italian), and an ever increasing number of shops, shopping complexes and malls, there is no end to what Addis Abeba has to offer for those looking to take a small piece of Ethiopia back with them.

Mercato, with its endless labyrinth of stalls and darting merchants effortlessly balancing entire shipments on their heads, is not one for the fainthearted, although it is a must see for anyone who wants to get a taste of the real hustle and bustle of Addis life, just be sure to go with a local who knows the area well.

Compared with Mercato, “Piazza” (Italian for plaza) offers a much gentler shopping experience and the shops lining the steep incline of the infamous “Churchill Avenue” are filled with all the traditional souvenirs, jewelry and all other sorts of memorabilia that are sure to add an African touch to your mantelpiece.

Sunday markets in Addis or those that take place on Mondays or Tuesdays in other parts of the country such as at Bati and Kemise in Wollo regional state are also worth visiting since they offer not only a window into the lifestyle of locals but also a unique photographic opportunity to capture the lively and colorful commerce of local communities.

Malls and Shopping Centers

Those with sensitive skin or limited time shouldn’t brave the open markets too much though, thankfully, Addis is now full of modern buildings which house shopping and entertainment centers. From the latest phones and gadgets to luxurious gold and even diamond jewelry, these malls and city centers are filled with anything you might require. You don’t have to carry around a wad of cash to do some shopping in Addis anymore since most high-end retailers at all the major malls and hotels accept Visa and Master Card.

250

Shopping

To do some shopping or kick back at a good café just cruise along Bole road (Africa Avenue) or go to Edna mall by the Mehanealem Church to see the latest Hollywood blockbuster. Although they aren’t malls in the common sense of the word, Addis has got its own interpretation of the western shopping experience, to get a taste of the best shopping that Addis Abeba has to offer head over to Mafi City Center

by Medhane Alem Church which is brimming with facilities such as wireless internet, ATMs and escalators or to DH Geda Mall for a wide range of stores carrying everything from European attire to high end electronics plus a spacious café and gourmet restaurant.Medhane Alem mall across the street from Edna mall is the newest installation in the hotel and mall district by the church and is home to My Burger, a new local fast food and coffee shop which dominates the ground floor.

Head northeast on the highway from the airport to Megenagna and visit the Shoa Hypermarket inside Zefmesh mall to find otherwise rare products while All Mart, also close to Megenagna, is another well stacked shopping alternative. Safeway supermarket (not the western brand but a local variation) offers quality products at competitive prices and can be found either in Gurd Shola (road from Megenagna to Ayat or CMC residential district) or in the Lebu area.

Arts and Craft

Traditional craft making is an instrumental part of Ethiopian culture which has been practiced since time immemorial. This age old tradition, passed down from generation to generation and involving children and adults of both genders, has not only provided useful everyday items and the means for artisans to get by but also

251

Shopping

possesses a singular aesthetic value that people from all over the world can attest to.

Traditional Ethiopian craft making encompasses, among many others skills; weaving, spinning, pottery, iconography, jewelry making and basketry.

Ethiopia, with its uniquely diverse ethno-linguistic background, has various customs and crafts that reflect each of its many facets. Different artisans bring forth the cultures of their society in artifacts that have their own distinctive beauty stemmed in the rich cultural heritage and the bountiful environment. It is because of this deep rooted traditional element that Ethiopian hand crafted items are sought after despite fierce threats to their very existence from much cheaper and easily available mass manufactured substitutes of inferior quality.

Addis Abeba is ripe with stalls and shops such as those lining the road by the post office on Churchill Avenue that offer many kinds of handcrafted souvenirs as well as practical household items from spoons and pots to three-legged stools but nowadays traditional craft making has been upgraded to a whole different level by institutions and businesses that have capitalized on the high demand for these items by manufacturing quality handcraft products on a large scale while compensating artisans fairly for their hard work.

Saint George Art gallery It is reputedly the first art gallery to be opened in Addis Abeba. Tucked away in a quaint villa behind the Sheraton Hotel, the gallery is a combined art gallery and traditional furniture and craft showroom which has garnered many admirers for the delicately constructed pieces it showcases. All of the furniture pieces on display are designed by Miss Saba Alene, the Gallery’s owner and curator, and are produced under her direct supervision on the premises of the gallery.

Miss Alene’s furniture and objet d’art which include contemporary and traditional paintings, hand woven textiles, designer jewelry, books and greeting cards which all reflect Ethiopian themes, culture and heritage have been exported throughout Europe and North America.

The Saint George Gallery has recently opened a branch in Old town, Alexandria, Virginia at 105 North Alfred Street and like the original St. George in Addis Abeba, the Alexandria St. George features the very best in Ethiopian furniture paintings, crafts, antiques, jewelry and much more. (For more go to http://www.stgeorgeofethiopia.com)

The Ethiopian Tourist Trading Enterprise (ETTE) is a very good source for finding genuine traditional craftwork which are carefully designed and produced to reflect the historical and cultural heritage of the country.

This government enterprise was first established in 1957 when it opened a small gift shop at the airport and since then it has continually grown to become a shining beacon of the local handcraft manufacturing and distribution industry.

Aside from retailing artisan work, the ETTE is a pioneer trader of duty free merchandise.

It currently runs 9 duty free shops in the country as well as a duty paid department store (Victory department store located near Bisrate Gabriel Church, Old Airport area) and a dependable food processing and distribution center.

252

Shopping

Salem’s: near Bole Medhane Alem behind Yugo City of Refuge Church, is one of these high-end crafts manufacturing firms which has thrived in the past couple of years.

Selling everything from earrings, hand woven garments and coasters to jewelry boxes and ornate furniture pieces, Salem’s is increasingly becoming a favored destinations for tourists and locals alike who have a taste for eloquent curios.

Asni Gallery: is housed in the historic 1912 villa of a former minister of justice and hosts several impressive contemporary art exhibitions by upcoming and established artists each year. The villa also serves as an artists’ retreat where painters live and work in small groups for weeks or months at a time. Asni Gallery is situated in northern Addis close to the fuel station near the French Embassy.

253

Shopping

MUYA: is a private-owned craft producing company worth visiting. MUYA produces superb woven furnishings like rugs, table settings & shawls as well as exotic pottery and furniture.

Zoma Contemporary Art Center (ZCAC): The Art Center is an

environmentally conscious artist-in-residency project with locations in Addis Abeba and Harla, a historic village near Dire Dawa. The focus of ZCAC’s work is the promotion of multidisciplinary contemporary art, international exchange between artists and the conception and implementation of sustainable, innovative and environmentally conscious art projects. ZCAC is very active in hosting educational events in partnership with the Addis Abeba University’s School of Fine Arts and internationally renowned artists such as David Hammons from New York and Ernesto Novelo from Mexico.

Souvenirs and Gifts Every tourist wants to take home the feeling and experience of the place they were mesmerized by. There is no better way to shrink all of that down into something representative than with a souvenir- small or large, cheap or expensive. Souvenirs can be ornaments, parchment books, necklaces, bracelets, rings, wooden pillows for the head, woven tables, or ebony carvings. Some or all of these can be found in the important cities and towns of Ethiopia.

The list is long, and the choices are many. Beware though, that not everything in these stores is Ethiopian. Malaysian, Thai, and Kenyan artifacts (mostly woodcarvings) are intermingled with Ethiopian artifacts. The main souvenir shopping street in Addis Abeba is the bottom half of Churchill Avenue. Some antiques may require a permit from the National museum. Take the item and its receipt from the shopkeeper and go to the National Museum to approve such purchases. Structured shops may be a welcome relief, if tired of haggling in local markets and smaller gift shops. Some of the larger hotel complexes in the capital, Addis Abeba also have their own small shopping arcades, including the Sheraton Addis. Here, it is possible to shop without the hustle and bustle that can be expected on the city’s busy streets. But prices for goods are higher than elsewhere.

Jewelry Plenty of jewelry stores can be found in Addis Abeba, particularly in Piazza and Mercato, the major shopping areas for silver, gold and natural stones jewelry. They can also be found in shopping malls around bole road. Items with typical Ethiopian designs include stylized crosses of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church and Ge’ez characters and numerals. Orthodox Christians hang their crosses around their necks on black or red, and white thread, called a mateb. At the entrances of most orthodox churches, various crosses made of wood and other materials can be found at dirt-cheap prices. Addis Abeba’s jewelry stores also testify to the relative security of the city. In every store, original pieces can be examined in one’s own hands.

254

Shopping

Shopping

Traditional Clothing

If you are in the market for something that is Really Ethiopian, then check out the “Shema” cloth dealers at “ShiroMeda” market close to the “Entoto” mountains right up the street from Sidist Kilo. Woven from cotton by hand throughout the entire fabrication process and embroidered with fine, intricate and colorful borders, the traditional Ethiopian “Netela” (aneck scarf for ladies) or the “Gabi” (a thickly layered warm blanket for men, women or children) are cheap must-haves for any tourist and are guaranteed to make you feel a little bit “Habesha” every time you put them on.

Other traditional clothing such as that of the “Sidama” are also popular with tourists and locals alike and are to be found in Addis, but if your travels take you to the south of the country, better to get these particular outfit from locals who might offer more genuine or rare articles of clothing or other keep sakes.

Cultural clothes with a modern twist have become increasingly popular as of late thanks to several inspired designers and businesses who have taken the age-old art of weaving to a whole different level. Dresses and other attire which are quite modern in design while retaining the unmistakable traditional Ethiopian touch can be found throughout Addis especially in shops lining the road commonly referred to as HayaHulet road.

Check out Yefikir design on the first floor of Robel Plaza on the street behind Edna mall which specializes in haute couture and ready to wear dresses, shawls and fabrics or Ayni’s design, which is located near Addis Guest House and carries dresses, tops, scarves as well as a wide range of leather and fabric bags purses and jewelry. Designer Nardos Hiruy’s Yehabesha design, also located on the road leading from Bole Medhane Alem to HayaHulet road, is another good option to shop for high quality hand woven clothes designed for adults as well as for kids.

257

Addis abeba

Traditional Cloths

Designer & Traditional Cloths Ayni’s Design Mob.: +251 91 140 7037 Location:- Near to Addis GuestHouse Don Dor Mob.: +251 91 120 428011 552 5223 Enku Design Mob.: +251 91 142 8665 Next design Institute and Shop Mob.: +251 91 101 2005 Yefikir Design Tel: +251 91 121 0478 Location:- Bole Medhanealm Yehabeshawa Mob.: +251 91 164 2252 Location:- Bole Medsnrslm to 22 Yoas Tibeb Mob.: +251 91 116 5560

Gallries & Art Studio Abyalew Art Studio Mob.: +251 91 125 0525 Abyssinia Fine Art School & Studio Tel: +251 11 157 7570 Location:- Arat kilo infront of Nazareth school Aklilu’s Art Studio Tel: +251 91 163 8895 Asni Gallery Tel: +251 93 010 1056

258

Asham Africa /Berhane Art Gallery Tel: +251 11 437 0710 Address:- Debrezeit Ayu photo studio Mob.: +251 91 141 3476 Chilota Studio Tel: +251 11 371 2443 Cork wine Gallery Tel: +251 11 660 3535 Desta Hagos Art studio Tel: +251 11 553 7823

Addis abeba

Traditional Cloths

Ertale Art Studio Mob.: +251 91 168 7256 Ethiopia Art Studio Mob.: +251 91 170 2876 Genna Art Studio Mob.: +251 911823300 Habesha Art Studio Mob.: +251 91 146 9371 Location:- Queen Elizabet Street Habesha Traditional Center and Art Gallery Tel: +251 11 552 9596 Harmony Art Studio Mob.: +251 91 110 6119 Image Africa Studio Mob.: +251 91 165 8371

Kinaff Leather Mob.: +251 91 123 6079

Le`La Art Gallery Mob.: +251 91 130 0756 Makush Gallery Tel: +251 11 552 6864 Muya Ethiopia Tel: +251 11 123 4015/19 Nabe Leather Craft Mob.: +251 91 160 2428 Nesta Art Village Mob.: +251 91 194 1678 Nubia Visual Art Studio Mob.: +251 91 166 7737 Salems Tel: +251 11 618 5604 Sal Art Gallery Mob.: +251 91 123 8696 St. George Art Gallery& Interior Decor Tel: +251 11 551 8103 Suzanne’s Gallery Mob.: +251 91 161 68141 Tagel Studio Mob.: +251 91 110 1322

259

Addis abeba

Traditional Cloths/ Gallery

Talisman Gallery Mob.: +251 91 150 7969 Yegna Art Studio Mob.: +251 91 171 1692

Jewelry & Gift Shops Souvenir Africa Vibration Mob.: +251 91 110 0145 Anne Silver Mob.: +251 91 143 4238

Kibriye Dejene Silver & Gold Tel: +251 11 111 4616

260

Addis abeba

Gallery/Jewelry

Negist Ethiopia Tel: +251 11 372 8080 Rohobot Souvenir Shop Mob.: +251 91 188 5980 Yeabzer Gemstone Tel: +251 11 618 0644 Yeheyis Dejene Gold & Silver Smith Tel: +251 115520188

Malls Adams Pavilion Tel: +251 11 320 1893 Location:- Sar bet Zefmesh Grand Mall Tel: +251 Location:Nega City Mall Tel: +251 91 306 2828 Location:- Kasanchis Mafi City Mall Tel: +251 11 662 6811 Location: Bole Medhanealem

261

Addis abeba

Malls

Laphto Recreation Center Tel: +251 Location:Getu Commercial Center Tel: +251 11 553 3648 Location:- Olympia Friend Ship City Center Tel: Location: Bole Eliana Mall Tel: +251 11555 3777 Location:- Piazza Edna Mall Tel: Location:- Bole Medhanealem DH Geda Tel: +251 11 661 8358 Location:- Bole Dembel City Center Tel: Location:- Olympia Bora amusment park Mob.: +251 91 163 0699 Location:-

Fitness Centers Alem Fitness and Day Spa Tel: +251 11 663 2897 Max View Fitness Tel: +251 11 629 9951/52 Laphto Recreation center Tel: +251 11 320 4076/77/78 Golden Gym Mob.: +251 91 122 4113 Capital Hotel and Spa Tel: +251 11 667 2100 Body Wise Wellnes and Fitness Center Tel: +251 11 372 0052/54

Florists

Yemco Trading Mob.: +251 91 147 3503

262

Training Institution & Hotel Management Service Element Hospitality management consultancy plc Tel: +251 91 122 9231

Ibex Hotel & Management College Tel: +251 11 557 1036 Lion Ethiopian Tourism & Hotel Collage Tel: +251 11 157 3606

Addis abeba

Malls

263

Addis abeba

Supermarkets

Indoor and Outdoor Sport Center Addis Abeba Golf Club (Golf and Horse riding) Tel: +251 11 320 1893 AirForce Hotel (Swimming) Tel: +251 11 433 8035 Enquis Ethiopia (Horse trekking) Mob: +251 91 110 2618 Genet Hotel (Bowling and Ground tennis) Tel: +251 11 551 8125 Ghion Hotel (Ground tennis and Swimming) Tel: +251 11 553 0485 Greek Club (Ground tennis and Basketball) Tel: +251 11 Haile Resort (Swimming and Mini golf) Tel: +251 46 220 8444 Hilton Hotel (Mini golf, Swimming and Tennis) Tel: +251 11 551 8400

264

Laphto Recreation center (Bowling and Swimming) Tel: +251 11 320 4076 Negash Lodge (Swimming) Tel: +251 11 341 0002 Safari Lodge (Swimming) Tel: +251 22 112 2011 Sheraton Addis (Swimming) Tel +251 Sodere Resort Hotel Tel: +251 22 111 3400

Super Markets Abadir Shoping Center PLC Tel: +251 91 151 6569 Bambis Shopping Center Tel: +251 11 552 1104 Central Supermarket Mob: +251 91 120 1148 Location:-

Addis abeba

Supermarkets

265

Addis abeba

SUPPLY AND SERVICE

Friendship super market Tel: +251 11 663 9850 Getfam Supermarket Mob: 91 120 3340 Lomyad Shopping Center Mob: +251 91 123 3000 Negash Supermarket Tel: +251 11 551 3021 Location:- Mexico Safeway Supper Market Tel: +251 11 647 9805 Location:Shoa Shopping Center Tel: +251 11 156 0363

Camping Equipment

Eyob Tent Rental Tel: +251 11 869 0726 Hambon General Trading plc Mob.: +251 91 164 2275 Hate Bad P.L.C Tel: +251 11 320 6351 Hambon General Trading plc Mob.: +251 91 164 2275

Beverages and Liquor Le Domain Import & Export plc Tel: +251 11 661 6125 Le Chateau Importer-Exporter plc Mob.: +251 91 160 5331 Location:- Bole medhanealm

Abreham Gizaw Tent Works and Rent Mob.: +251 91 121 9251 Location:- Shegole Addis Fana General Merchandise & Hotel Trading s.c.

Liquor Depot Tel: +251 11 663 5170 Mob.: +251 91 123 2787

266

Addis abeba

SUPPLY AND SERVICE

267

Addis abeba

SUPPLY AND SERVICE

Meat Products Abafanny Meat Products Tel: +251 11 439 2666 Location:- Wolo sefer near Bible Coggege Prime food products Tel:- +251 11 320 5625 Location Robel Hailom Agro-Industry Tel: +251 91 113 5329 Location:- Holeta

268

Book Shops

Africans Book Shop Tel: +251 111111954 Location:Piazza Book Depot PLC Tel:+251 116638170 Location:Bole, near Novis Book World Tel: +251 11559010, +251 115518400 Location:multiple branches Mega Book Shop Tel:+251 111112323

Addis abeba

SUPPLY AND SERVICE

269

Addis abeba

Spa & Salons

270

Addis abeba

Spa & Salons

271

Addis abeba

Spa & Salons

272

Addis abeba

Spa & Salons

273

Addis abeba

Spa & Salons/Photo Studio

274

Addis abeba

Spa & Salons

275

Addis abeba

Spa & Salons

Spa & Salons Aida Beauty Classic & Spa Tel: +251 11 662 0396 Location:- Bole Boston Day Spa Tel: +251 11 663 6557 Bellvue Tel: +251 11 667 6700/01/02/03 Location:- Megenagna

276

Bright Day spa and Morroco Bath Tel: +251 91 121 0518 Location:Capital Hotel and spa Tel: +251 11 667 2100 Location:- Hiale G/selassie Avenue

Addis abeba

Spa & Salons

Dayi’s day spa Mob.: +251 91 292 3692 Location:-

Eve Beauty & Spa Tel: +251 11 515 0405 Location:- Nigist Towers, Casanchis

Fana beauty salon Tel:- +251 11 554 1737 German Nail Studio Mob.: +251 91 242 0450 Herba Beauty Care Spa & Tattoo Studio Mob.: +251 91 303 6401 Location:Radisson Blu Hotel (Rainforest day spa) Tel: +251 11 515 7601 Location:- Kazanchis Sunshine Beauty Salon Tel: +251 11 515 5302 Signature skin care and beauty corner Tel +251 11 554 6396 Terry Style Tel: +251 11 553 5555 Tulsi Tel: +251 11 896 0822 Location: Kebena, Arat Killo Road

Banks

Commercial Bank of Ethiopia Tel: +251 551 5004 Location: Gambia Street

Insurance

Niyala Insurance S.C Tel: +251 11 663 9065, +251 662 6707 Location: Protection House Bldg.

277

Addis abeba

Recreational Facilitles

278

Addis abeba

www.nto.com.et

Extraordinary everyday.

Explore the wonders of Ethiopia with the pioneers. NTO offers a wide range of affordable luxury buses and brand new mini buses. We also provide various tour packages to choose from with hotel reservations and air tickets.

For more information

Tel: + 251 11 551 4838 + 251 11 515 9274 E-mail:nationaltouroperation@gmail.com

Travel Around

After witnessing the capital’s beauty and visiting most of the tourist sites within the city, the other historical places of the country can also only truly be appreciated by visiting them up-close and personal. The desire to visit Axum’s Stelae, Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches, the South Omo Valley, or the Danakil Depression makes tour and travel operators seem all the more handy.

Most of Ethiopia’s tour operators are based in Addis Abeba, though many have satellite operations at major tourist hubs in the north and south. Most of the agencies have websites that can be checked out before taking off, but their information and addresses are also found in the following pages. Some agencies also have attractive eco-friendly lodges or campsites.

After deciding to take a tour, contact agencies in advance and compare itineraries.

Prices can be negotiated during the low season, and many agencies accept credit cards.

If not wanting to hire a travel agent, explore by:

Air

It is worth considering traveling by air. Most flights are very reasonably priced, and with lower altitude flights on domestic routes and usually clear Ethiopian skies, some stunning landscapes can be seen.

Besides getting to see Ethiopia’s ravine-ravaged landscape from a bird’s eye view, a lot of time can be saved by flying to some of the far flung sites. Ethiopian Airlines has a good network of domestic flights connecting Addis Abeba to most major tourist destinations. They even have packages that are very convenient for tourists wanting to see the main attractions in a shorter period of time.

Bus or Minibus

A good network of long-distance buses connects most major towns in Ethiopia. There are government as well as private bus associations. The most popular private companies are Selam Bus and Sky Bus. Minibuses can be utilized where these two are lacking, such as between Goba and Negelle Borena or Arba Minch and Jinka. They are also handy between towns that are close together like Adwa and Axum, Goba and Robe, or Dire Dawa and Harar.

Car Hire

It is expensive, but vehicles can be hired from Addis Abeba for any destination desired.

The cars are almost always supplied with a driver, which is advisable, considering the difference between driving in Ethiopia and driving in many other countries.

Ferry

Ferry services are found on Lake Tana. Daily service runs between Bahir Dar and Zege, and weekly overnight service runs between Bahir Dar and Gorgora.

Regardless of the method of travel, the attractions, whether early civilizations or wonders of nature are what really wow people.

Addis abeba

Tour and travel

284

Addis abeba

Tour and Travel

285

Addis abeba

Tour and travel

286

Addis abeba

Tour and Travel

287

Addis abeba

Tour and travel

288

Addis abeba

Tour and Travel

289

Addis abeba

Tour and travel/Car rental

290

Addis abeba

Tour and Travel

291

Addis abeba

Tour and travel

292

Addis abeba

Tour and Travel

293

Addis abeba

Tour and travel

294

Addis abeba

Tour and Travel

295

Addis abeba

Tour and travel

296

Addis abeba

Tour and Travel

297

Addis abeba

Tour and travel

298

Addis abeba

Tour and Travel

299

Addis abeba

Tour and travel

300

Addis abeba

Tour and Travel

Tour and Travel African Adventure Tours Mob.:+251 91 198 2718 www.africanadventures .net Absolute Ethiopia Tour Mob.:+251 91 120 8865 www.absoluteethiopia.com Amran Ethiopia Tour and Travel plc Mob.:+251 91 121 2857 amranethiopia@gmail.com Ashenge Tour and Travel Mob.:+251 91 151 4901 www.ashengetours.com

Asqual Tour and Travel Mob.:+251 91 123 4436 www.asqualtours.com

301

Addis abeba

Tour and travel

Boundless Ethiopia Tours plc.

Mob.:+251 91 292 3743 www.boundlessethiopia.com Bye Tour and Travel Mob.:+251 91 120 2269 www.byetourandtravel.com

Chapter Tour Operation /CTO/ Mob.:+251 91 066 6111 www.chapterethiopiatour.com

Discover Abyssinia Tours Mob.:+251 91 123 6659 www.dabyssinia.com Dynasty Ethiopina Tours Plc Mob.:+251 91 119 8543 www.dynastyethiopiatours.com

302

Addis abeba

Tour and Travel

Elmes Tour and Travel plc Mob.:+251 91 152 2727 www.elmestour.com Farangi Tours Ethiopia Mob.:+251 93 001 3362 faranjitour@yahoo.com Four Products Tour and Travel Agent Mob.:+251 91 162 0386 www.fourproductstour.com

Horizon Ethiopia Tour and Travel plc.

Mob.:+251 91 121 5119 www.horizonethiopiatours.com

Julian Ethiopia Tour Mob.:+251 93 003 4868 www,julianethiopiatour.com Kadanuumuu Tour Mob.:+251 91 124 1424 www.kadantourtravel.com

Kamak Tour Operation and Car rent plc Mob.:+251 91 121 1560 www.kamaktour.com Lalibela Travel and Tour Tel.:+251 11 515 8600 www.lalibelatravelandtour.com Lendo Tour, Travel and Car rent Mob.:+251 91 146 4365 www.lendotours.com M.J Tour Operation and Travel Agents Mob.:+251 91 120 7813 www.mjtouroperation.com.et

303

Addis abeba

Tour and travel

Magic Land Tour and Travel Mob.:+251 91 122 3630 brookkassa06@yahoo.com Maz Ethiopian Tour Operation Tel.:+251 11 551 0508 www.mazethiopiatour.com

Mela Travel and Tour plc Mob.:+251 91 122 6371 www.melatours.com OMO Tours and Car rent Tel.:+251 11 661 0268 www.omotours.com Pathfinder Tour Operator Mob.:+251 91 121 7455 www.ethiopathtour.com

304

Addis abeba

Tour and Travel

Pharez Ethiopia Tour and Travel Mob.:+251 91 151 3687 www.Pharezethiopiatour.com Promise Travel and Tour Tel.:+251 11 662 1003 www.promisetravel.com Red Jackal Tours Mob.:+251 91 121 5789 www.red-jackal.net

Scarmak business plc Tel.:+251 11 663 5303 www.scarmaktour.com

Selam International Travel and Tours Tel.:+251 11 629 8203 www.selamtravelethiopia.com

Taitu Tour and travel plc Mob.:+251 91 116 6200 www.taitutour.com Tedy Tour and Travel Service plc Mob.:+251 91 123 2751 www.tedytour.com Tek Tours Mob.:+251 91 150 2882 www.tekethiopiatours.com Travel Ethiopia Tour Tel.:+251 11 552 5478 www.travelethiopia.com Walk In Ethiopia tour travel and car rent Tel.:+251 11 667 2880 www.walkinethiopia.com Wondu Tours Enterprise Mob.:+251 91 123 9510 www.wondutoursethiopia.com

305

Addis abeba

Tour and travel

Car Rentals

Airlines

ABC/NTO Mob.:+251 91 151 0505 www.abccarrent.com Unique Car Rent Mob.:+251 91 120 4579 www.uniquecarrent.com Yoye Two 7 Mob.:+251 91 122 3850 www.yoyetwo7.com

Egypt Air Tel.:+251 11 150 0587 www.egyptair.com Emirates Tel: +251 11 518 1818 www.emirates.com

Private Air Operators Ethiopian Airlines Aberdair Aviation Limited Tel: +251 11 665 6666 Tel: +251 11 662 4343 www.ethiopianairlines.com www.aberdair.com Abyssinian Flight Services Kenya Airways Tel: +251 11 662 0622 Tel: +251 115525546/7 www.abyssinianflights.com www.kenya-airways.com National Airways Lufthansa Tel: +251 11 663 8778 Tel:+251 115515666/75 www. nationalairways.com.et www.lufthansa.com Trans Nation Airways Turkish Airlines Tel: +251 11 320 5658 Tel: +251 11 662 7781/82 Email: tna_mktg@ethionet.et Email: turkishairlines@ethionet.et Yemen Airways Tel: +251 11 551 5076 www.yemenia.com Saudi Arabian Airlines Tel:+251 11 551 3151 Email:saudicmoadd@ethionet.et Gulf Air Tel: +251 11 515 3348 www.gulfair.com

306

Addis abeba

Car rentals

307

Addis abeba

Hot Air Balloon

308

Addis abeba

AirLine

309

Northern Ethiopia

Amhara--------------------------------------------------------------- 311 Bahir Dar 313 Gondar 317 Simien Mountains National Park 322 Simien Mountain Treks with Ethiopian Quadrants------------- 324 Lalibela and its Rock Hewn Churches (World Heritage Site) 330 Abune Yoseph Community Conservatiion Area (ACCA) 333 Bati & Kemmissie (Bati and Senbete Markets) 341 Menz Guassa Community Conservation Area (GCCA)-------- 348 Tigrai----------------------------------------------------------------- 352 1. Mekelle 355 2. Wukro and It’s Surrounding 356 3. Gheralta and It’s Surrounding 358 4. Adigrat to Axum 365 5. Axum and Surrounding 367

This highland part of the country is where earliest civilization started. It is home to a wealth of historical, archeological and cultural treasures of Ethiopia. The ‘historical or northern route’ is the major tourist destination. It has two major regional states: the Amhara which includes Bahir Dar, Gondar and Lalibela and the Tigrai including Axum, Mekelle and others. You can visit the sites either flying or driving. Most tour operators have itineraries up to 3 weeks or more if you have time or else it can be arranged as your convenience. For list of reliable tour operators you can visit the Tour and Travel section of this book or visit the Ethiopian Tour Operators Association (www.ethiopiantourassociation.com) and the Addis Abeba Tour Operators Association (www stoa-ethiopia.org) websites. The sections below are written by route inorder to make it easier for the reader and traveller.

Amhara Covering an area of 157,076 square Km, which is equivalent to 15% of the total landmass of Ethiopia, the Amhara Regional State is home to more than 17 million inhabitants (according to a 2010 census) a vast majority of whom (about 90%) are members of the Amhara ethnic group.

Amhara Regional State has remained the preferred tourist destination for both locals and foreigners for decades. Around 70% of all international tourists and 80% of domestic tourists head to the region to get a feel for the rich history and culture which Ethiopia is most known for.

Three of the several tourist destinations that the Amhara Regional State has to offer, namely the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, the Simien Mountain National Park and the medieval castles of Gondar are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites but there are also lesser known impressive sites and attractions such as the imposing, thunderous falls of the Blue Nile and the ancient monasteries on isolated islands on Lake Tana. From Addis Abeba to the Amhara’s Capital or to Lake Tana you should take the Gojam or Bahir Dar road commonly known as the start of the historic route in which some of the places can be visited within a day trip along the way (Chancho, Mugher Gorge, Jemma Valley and Debre Libanos are mentioned in the Day Trips from Addis Abeba Section).

Tourist Map of the Amhara Region by Route

Tigray

SMNP ar

b De

bor

Be

ile Fall

Blue N

Dangla .

Mota

. kosober Injbara .

iz

um

lG

gu

n sha

Blue N

.

yn

e

es

.Bure. Finot

lam da

n Gu

De

e W

Yemrahane Kirstos

. Lalibela

Bilbilla a . Chirkos

re T a

ar .

ir D

Bilbilla .

Nefa s Mew ch

.

Deb

Afar

. a

y

ld We

. Wuchale

Gashena Maqdalla Hill

ile Riv er

. Tenta .

.

De

i

na Tiru Si

.

. Kemissie

Mekane Selam

. Markos

.

Bat

Dessie

BSNP

bre

Menz Mehal Meda Guassa

.

Alem Ketema

jen

ha

Go

.

Fic h

e

n

io Ts

.

.

Debre Libanos

Jemma Valley

Mezezo n

a irh

eB br De .

. Mukaturi

Oromia

ta

. Ko . Alma

ta

e . Wor

Lake Tana Bah

rem

en

em is Z

d . Ad

.

Ankober

. Chancho Nekemte .

Ambo

.

Addis Abeba

. Bishoftu

Key Church Monastery Mosque SMNP The Simien Mountains National Park- (World Heritage Site) BSNP Borena-sayint National Park Alatish NP Alatish National Park

.

.

Road Towns River Lake

bit

NP

.

a Ro

.A

.

Sekota

o zez

iq E & stifa Lo n go os Ha Ch iq urc h

.

Sho

da n Su

. Ko

Z

Gondar

Gorgora

tish Ala

hew

. Maic

ye so

Ha

Metema

k

Z

Amhara

Addis Abeba to Blue Nile Gorge

A very magnificent gorge with an altitude of around 2500m to 1200m that you would find travelling on the Addis to Bahir Dar road between Fiche, the closest town to Debre Libanos and Debre Markos. The gorge follows the course of the Blue Nile and was originally built by the Italians. As you descend the 40km road between Goha Tsion and Dejen which might take an hour and half, the temperature rises with expansive views. At the bottom a second new bridge, built by the Japanese crosses the river. Once you pass the gorge the first town is Dejen across the route to Bahir Dar and you can either take the route via Mota, which is shorter though less popular or via Debre Markos, 300 km northwest of Addis Abeba and the former capital of the province of Gojam. Historically Debre Markos is known as the site of the surrender of large number of Italian troops to a very few Ethiopian army. It is usually a breaking point to rest for buses travelling from the capital to Bahir Dar. Along your way to Bahir Dar there are cities and places of attraction that you would encounter.

Bahir Dar The picturesque capital of the Amhara region, Bahir Dar, has for too long lived in the shadow of its more renowned neighbor, Gondar, but it has now started to get the recognition and attention it deserves as the historic and vital city linking the Lake Tana region to the rest of the country. The 560 Km road linking Addis Abeba to Bahir Dar is one of the best in the country and can be traversed in a day by car or by coach (Selam or Sky Bus) but you can also fly there with Ethiopian Airlines which has daily flights to the city.

The southern shore of Lake Tana, upon which the city perches, was a political center for the entire country during and after the decline of the Zagwe dynasty up until the rise of Gondar after the 14th century. The area was also the main battle ground during the religious wars of the early 1500’s owing to its strategic location and relatively bountiful natural resources.

315

Bahirdar

Hotel

316

Amhara

With a population of 200,000 and growing, the city is currently a major industrial and tourist center constantly improving to meet the needs of its inhabitants and visitors.

The palm tree lined wide and clear boulevards are a stark contrast to and a pleasant change from the slightly chaotic streets of Addis Abeba and other major cities.

In the center of Bahir Dar, lies the market, where, unlike in most other cities where market days are only one or two days a week, business is conducted every day. The market is well stocked with handcraft and souvenir items such as Shema cloth, furniture and utensils such as the Ageligil, which is a leather-made portable lunchbox of sorts used by travelers for carrying Injera and Wot.

Lake Tana

Lake Tana is the largest lake in Ethiopia and third largest in Africa, spanning an area of more than 3500 square Km. This highland lake set at an altitude of 1800 meters above sea level was formed by a volcanic eruption and is the main source of the Blue Nile and hosts several species of birds and wildlife.

The lake harbors 14 different species of fish (out of which about 9 are endemic) and more than 50 species of birds making it a bird-watchers paradise. Some of the more unique species are the African Long-eared Owl, Dark-headed Oriole, Wattled Crane and Pallid Harrier while flotillas of White Pelicans are an especially common sight.

The islands dotted all over the magnificent waters are places where some of the most captivating and oldest monasteries in Ethiopia can be found and the northern and southern shores of the lake have spawned the great historic cities of Gondar and Bahir Dar respectively.

Some of the 21 churches that are mostly spread out on the 39 different islands located on the lake go all the way back to the 13th century and contain the earliest religious and historical manuscripts, awe-inspiring incarnations of ecclesiastic art and royal crowns and scepters used by early Christian kings and emperors inside their monastic treasuries.

Several of the Lake Tana monasteries are located on the south west edge of the lake in the Zegie Peninsula which hosts dense forests and a total of seven monasteries and churches including Ura Kidanemihret, Azewa Mariam, Mahil Zegie Giorgis, Betre Mariam, Yiganda Tekle Haimanot and Fure Mariam.

The old town of Gorgora is found at the Northern Shore of Lake Tana. It was the seat of Emperor Susenyos in the early 17th century.

It is a very attractive spot to birdwatchers. Ethiopian Holidays Package The Monastery of De- TOUR NAME: Northern Historic Route EH-101 bre Sina Mariam is a TOUR CODE: ITINERARY: Bahir Dar-Gondar-Lalibela-Axum highlight of any visit DURATION: 05 nights and 06 days to Gorgora town. The VALIDITY: December 31, 2015 murals on the monas- Contact Info:- Email: Info@et-holidays.com, Tel: +251-116-184-360

317

Northern Ethiopia

tery rank with the most complex to be seen in the Tana region. These murals were painted at least 300 years ago, making them older than those at Ura Kidane Mihret or Narga Selassie. Another place of interest is the Gorgora Cathedral built by the Jesuit priest after he was granted land by Emperor Susenyos. Though the cathedral now is an overgrown ruin, the tall walls, pillars and archways engraved with flowers and crosses would hint at its former grandeur. ‘Old Gorgora’ and the ruined palace, constructed by Emperor Susenyos are situated on a peninsula around 10 km west of Gorgora. To visit Gorgora there is a weekly ferry to and from Bahir Dar or you can charter a boat from Bahir Dar. It is also possible to visit the port from Gondar either by a public transport or a private vehicle, which is 60 km south of Gondar and about an hour and a half drive from there.

Blue Nile Falls

One of the most captivating attractions of Bahir Dar is the Abay River which passes through the city from its source, Lake Tana towards the nearby Blue Nile Falls (Tis Abay), which are simply breathtaking. The falls are also the site for the Great Millennium Dam and Power Plant, currently under construction, which promises to make good use of the heretofore underutilized Blue Nile by generating enough electricity to curb the power shortage for the rapidly growing economy of Ethiopia.

The Blue Nile Falls are situated 30 Km south of Bahir Dar and are considered to be one of the most beautiful and pristine waterfalls in all of Africa. The cascading water plunges over a 45 meter high rock face spraying a fine mist of moisture that looks like smoke (hence the name Tis Abay meaning Smoky Nile) and drenches onlookers miles away.

James Bruce, the 18th century explorer who is regarded as being the first European to set eyes on Tis Abay was so struck with the overwhelming beauty of the scene that he exclaimed that the falls were: “one of the most stupendous sights of creation……..a magnificent sight, that ages, added to the greatest length of human life, would not efface or eradicate from my memory; it struck me with a kind of stupor, and a total oblivion of where I was, and of every sublunary concern”.

Debre Tabor It lies 42 Km east of the Woreta junction on your way from Bahir Dar to Lalibela, with the possibility of making a short diversion to Awramba community. Debre Tabor effectively served as the capital of Ethiopia as the successor to Gondar in the 19th century during the reign of Ras Gugsa and it retained this status until 1889, when Menelik II was crowned as an Emperor. Tabor Iyesus which lies on a forested hill 3 Km from the town center and Tabor Mariam, constructed with the support of Tewodros II in the 1860s are the two attractions of Debre Tabor. Mount Guna is another attraction around Debre Tabor, a 4231m mountain east of Debre Tabor with magnificent landscape all

318

Gondar

the way to Lalibela and an ideal site for adventurers with its cold weather and terrain surface. Gashena is the next town you would pass enroute to Lalibela. But from Bahir Dar you can also use another route through Woreta to Gondar.

Gondar The historic city of Gondar was first established in 1635 by Emperor Fasiladas as his seat of power and continued to serve as the capital of the Ethiopian empire for the next 250 years. Located in north western Ethiopia at a distance of 730 Km from Addis Abeba, Gondar is perched at an altitude of 2200 meters above sea level.

The Ethiopian empire underwent a series of changes in the 15 and 16 hundreds, first in the form of the religious wars waged by Ahmed Gragn and then through the adoption of Catholicism by Emperor Susenyos as a state religion. This act was highly unpopular and eventually led to the abdication of Susenyos in favor of his son Fasiladas who restored the Orthodox faith and made Gondar his capital.

Today Gondar is a top tourist destination in Ethiopia as the major destination along the much embarked upon ‘historic route’. Gondar is somewhat quieter than other large cities in Ethiopia such as Addis Abeba and Bahir-Dar, but there is still plenty to see and a lot of great places to stay at. If you visit the city in the months of September or January you can see the memorable religious ceremonies of Mesqel and Timkat (Ethiopian Epiphany). Visiting the Awramba society, an egalitarian society in which there is no distinction in the division of labor amongst women and men, 60 Km away is one activity around Gondar while going to one of the traditional night clubs in the city such as the Balageru, the one of a kind spectacle of Azmari musical banter is worth a visit.

Gondar is probably most known for being the place where ancient medieval castles unlike any other in all of Africa are found, although it also sports other impressive attractions such as the brilliantly decorated church of Debre Birhan Silassie as well as being the base to explore the Simien Mountains National Park, the most favored hiking destination in Ethiopia which also happens to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Royal Enclosure (Fasil Ghebbi)

In the center of Gondar city, the Royal Enclosure containing several medieval castles and churches lies surrounded by tall stone walls. This 70000 square meter compound contains a complex of buildings which includes Fasiladas’ castle, Iyasu’s palace, Dawit’s Hall, a banqueting hall, stables, Empress Mentewab’s castle, a chancery, library and three churches.

The original castle, built in 1640 by Emperor Fasiladas, is by far the most remarkable building within the compound. Built of stone and displaying a range of architectural

Ethiopian Holidays Package TOUR NAME: Historic Route – Gondar & Bahir Dar TOUR CODE: EH-104 ITINERARY: Gondar – Bahir Dar DURATION: 04 nights and 05 days VALIDITY: December 31, 2015 Contact Info:- Email: Info@et-holidays.com, Tel: +251-116-184-360

319

Northern Ethiopia

influences such as Nubian, Arab, and Baroque styles, Fasliadas’ castle is an impressive achievement of architecture which served a double purpose as a palace as well as a defensible structure complete with gothic style ramparts and walkways.The site was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.

Fasiladas, credited with founding the city of Gondar in 1636, was proclaimed emperor in 1630 during a revolt led by Sartse Kirstos, but did not reach the throne until his father abdicated in 1632. Once he became emperor, Fasiladas immediately restored the official status of the traditional Ethiopian Orthodox Church expelling the Jesuits and restoring the ancient relationship that had been allowed to lapse with the Patriarch of Alexandria.

Aside from the castle at Fasil Ghebbi, he had constructed some of the earliest of Gondar’s fabled 44 churches. He is also credited with building seven stone bridges in Ethiopia; as a result all old bridges in Ethiopia are often commonly believed to be his work.

Emperor Fasiladas also built the Cathedral Church of St Mary of Zion at Axum. Fasiladas’ church is known today as the “Old Cathedral” and stands next to a newer cathedral built by Emperor Haile Selassie.

Fasil Ghebbi is enclosed by a curtain wall which is pierced by twelve gates. These are, in counter-clockwise order: Fit Ber (also called Jan Tekel Ber) opening onto Adababay; Wember Ber (Gate of the Judges); Tazkar Ber (Gate of Funeral Commemoration), which had a bridge destroyed by fighting during the reign of Iyasu II; Azaj Tequr Ber which once was connected by a bridge to Adababay Tekle Haimanot church; Adenager Ber (Gate of the Spinners), which was linked by a bridge to Kidus Rafael church in the weaver’s section of Gondar; Qwali Ber (Gate of the Queen’s Attendants), next to the modern entrance to Elfign Giorgis church inside the enclosure; Embilta Ber (Gate of the Musicians); Elfign Ber (Gate of the Privy Chamber), which gave access to the private apartments of the Fasil Ghebbi; Balderas Ber (Gate of the Commander of the Cavalry); Ras Ber (Gate of the Ras), also known as Qwaregnyoch Ber (Gate of the Qwara people); Ergeb Ber (Gate of Pigeons), also known as Kechin Ashawa Ber (Gate of the Gifts); Enqoye Ber (Gate of Princess Enqoye, the mother of Empress Mentewab; and Gimjabet Mariam Ber (Gate of the Treasury of Mary), which leads to the church yard of Gimjabet Mariam church.

Out side the Royal Enclosure, there are several buildings of the same era and architecture. Emperor Fasiladas’ Bath, Empress Mentewab’s compound found at Qusquam, Ras Mikael Sahlu’s compound and Debre Birhan Selassie are the major ones.

Emperor Fasiladas’ Bath- is a charming spot enclosed by a tall stone wall with six turrets, where the pool is overlooked by a two-storey building said to have been the Emperor’s second residence. Entrance fee to the pool is included with the Royal Enclosure and you can easily walk to the pool from the city center. The very colorful Ethiopian Orthodox Church Timkat Festival (Ethiopian Epiphany) is celebrated on January every year in Gondar around this pool. The ceremony is led by colorfully attired priests carrying the replica of the Ark of the Covenant and crosses, whereas thousands of whiterobbed worshippers converge around the pool to be blessed and sprinkled with its holy water.

320

Gondar

Hotel

322

Gondar

Hotel

323

Northern Ethiopia

Getting Around Gondar

Qusquam Church and the ruined Palace of Empress Mentewab – located

around 3km Northwest of Gondar up on the hills. The church and the palace were built

by Empress Mentewab in the second half of the 18th century who served as a regent for her young son Iyasu II. Though they are in a state of partial ruin; it makes a fascinating excursion from Gondar.

Woleqa (the Felasha Village) – inhabited by the Bet Israel community (Ethiopian Jews), it is an attraction which is frequently visited for the various beautiful clay works produced by women in the village. It is located 3km north of the city of Gondar.

There are other historical and archeological attractions in addition to the castles of Emperor Fasiladas around Gondar. Castles built by Medieval Emperors like Guzara Palace, which lies 1.5 km east of Gondar – Bahir Dar highway or just 62 kms from Gondar, the Azezo Genete Iyesus underground building, the Gorgora Nova, the Dabsan ruined settlement and Danqaa – Susenyos palace are some of the attractions worth visiting.

Debark – lies on the Axum-Gondar road 250km south west of Axum or 100km North of Gondar at a chilly altitude of 2,800m on the western base of the Simien Mountains National Park. To buy the necessary permits for the park and for Simien hikes and treks you have to visit Debark which is the traditional trailhead.

Alatish National Park

Established in 2006, the general topography of the park is flat to undulating plains, with a general slope or inclination from the south to the north, interrupted by valleys, streams, scattered hills, and seasonal wetlands. Elevation ranges from 520m to 920m above sea level. You can see elephants and greater and lesser kudus. It is located 970km north of Addis Abeba, in QuaraWereda, North Gondar Zone, Amhara Regional State.

Simien Mountains National Park

Simien Mountains National Park is located 130 Km north of Gondar close to the town of Debark which is only 32 Km away from the boundary of the park. Covering an area of more than 400 square Km, Simien Mountains National Park is one of the major parks in Ethiopia. The park, situated at an altitude of 1900 meters at its lowest point and 4533 meters above sea level at its highest, was established in 1969. Attached to the mountains of the park, lies the highest peak in Ethiopia, Ras Dejen Mountain, 4533m height and a one day trekking distance from Chenek which is one of the resting places and campsites in the park.

It was one of the first sites to be made a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (1978). However, due to serious population declines of some of its characteristic native species, in 1996 it was also added to the list of World Heritages in Danger.

Simien National Park is a spectacular landscape where massive erosion over millions of years has created jagged mountain peaks, deep valleys and sharp precipices dropping some 1500 m. The park is of global significance for biodiversity conservation because it is home to globally threatened species, including the iconic Walia ibex, a wild moun-

324

Simien Mountains National Park

tain goat found nowhere else in the world, the Gelada baboon and the Ethiopian wolf.

Despite their ruggedness and altitude, villages linked by tracks are easy to spot all over the mountains. Historically the Mountains were inhabited by Ethiopian Jews (the Bet Israel), who withdrew from the province of Dembiya into the higher reaches of the Simien Mountains in the 15th century, having quarreled with Ethiopian Christian Emperors.

The property is of global significance for biodiversity conservation. It forms part of the Afroalpine Centre of Plant Diversity and the Eastern Afromontane biodiversity hotspot, and it is home to a number of globally threatened species. The cliff areas of the park are the main habitat of the Endangered Walia ibex (Capra walie), a wild mountain goat which is endemic to the Simien Mountains. Other flagship species include the Endangered Ethiopian wolf (or Simien fox, considered to be the rarest canid (canine) species in the world and the Gelada baboon, both of which are endemic to the Ethiopian highlands and depend on Afroalpine grasslands and heathlands. Other large mammal species include the Anubis baboon, Hamadryas baboon, klipspringer, and golden jackal.

The park is also an important bird area that forms part of the larger endemic bird area of the central Ethiopian Highlands. In total, the park supports over 20 large mammal species and over 130 bird species. The mountains are also home to 5 small mammal species and 16 bird species endemic to Ethiopia and Eritrea as well as an important population of the rare lammergeyer, a spectacular vulture species. The park’s richness in species and habitats is a result of its great altitudinal, topographic and climatic diversity, which have shaped its Afromontane and Afroalpine ecosystems.

The Simien Mountains make a great break from the historical routes constant monument – viewing. The mountains are easily accessible and very ideal for trekking. The most useful trekking map for the park is produced by the Institute of Geography, University of Berne, Switzerland. The park rents a laminated version or you might be lucky to find it in Gondar or Debark. Mattresses, sleeping bags, two-person tents, gas stoves and other equipments can be hired at the park’s headquarters. For food supplies you have to stock up from Gondar or Addis Abeba. Cooks, scouts, mules and guides are all available at the park’s headquarters.

325

Gelada baboon, Endemic to the Ethiopian Highlands Photo By: Vincent Munier

The park’s spectacular landscape is part of the Simien Mountain massif, which is located on the northern limit of the main Ethiopian plateau and includes the highest point in Ethiopia, RasDejen. The undulating plateau of the Simien Mountains has over millions of years been eroded to form precipitous cliffs and deep gorges of exceptional natural beauty. Some cliffs reach 1,500 m in height and the northern cliff wall extends for some 35 km. The mountains are bounded by deep valleys to the north, east and south, and offer vast vistas over the rugged-canyon like lowlands below. The spectacular scenery of the Simien Mountains is considered to rival Colorado’s Grand Canyon.

Simien Mountain Treks with Ethiopian Quadrants 1. The high land trek only/8 days/

Addis-Gondar-Sankaber-Geech-Chenke-Ambiko-Chenke-Gondar Addis-Gondar- Bahit-Ras-Sankaber/ 125 kms , 3.30 hours, driving hours and 7 km is trekking distance/

Day1- Drive from Gondar to Bauit-Ras/3000m/, 125 kms, about 3:30hours, to start

8 days trekking in the Simien Mountains.The Word Simien mean North in Amharic, which is our official language. Simien Mountains has been registered since the late of 1960s by UNESCO as world heritage site. Simien Mountains is a highland in Northern part of Ethiopia consisting of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world and it is called the Roof of Africa. Walk about 1:30 hours to get the first camp of the Simien Mountains National park known as Sankaber /3250m/. We can observe the beautiful landscape and animals like Gelada Baboon or Bleeding heart Baboon. After we arrive Sankaber, we can have tea break and perhaps have time to see some views and walk around Sankaber to acclimatize to the altitude. (Camping Sankaber) Sankaber-Geech/ 18 kms/

Day2- Trek to Geech/ 3580m/ about 5-6 hours. We start our walking by following the

escarpment to Gean- Bar Falls, about 1:30 hours. Here we can observe bird life such as vultures, European griffin, lammergeyers...etc and then one and half hour walk to Gean-Bar river, where we have picnic lunch and then reach the village of Geech after climbing steadily for about 2 hours and camp at the beautiful sites situated 30 minutes further from the village of Geech. (Camping Geech) Geech-Immet gogo-Saha-Geech/15kms/ Day3- This morning, we take 2 hours hike up to the Summit of Immet gogo/3926m/, where it is possible to see the low lands and gain an awesome perspective of this incredible mountain range. There are also options to walk to Geder got and Saha, 1:30 hour.

The animals to be seen here are Gelada Baboon and Walia Ibex /wild goat/endemic to the Simien mountains, living in the narrow vertical areas. Then we talk a one and half hour walk back to Geech. (Camping Geech) Geech-Intye-Chenke/23 kms/

Day4- Today we trek along the whole escarpment to Chenke /3620m/, which is

bounded by a semi circular ring of cliffs. It takes about 6-7 hours of walking, with some steeps up and down and passing the Intye Mountains /4070m/, where we can have lunch. Intye Mountains is the highest in the area with an amazing landscape.

The Simien fox /Abyssinian wolf/ is rarely seen here unless you are lucky!

(Camping Chenke)

Chenke- Bahwit-Cherleba-Ambiko/28 kms/ Day5- We walk about 6-7 hours to Ambiko/3200m/ at the foot hill of Ras-Dashen and go half way up to the Bahwit peak /4430m/, the second highest mountain in the chain, for an incredible sight of our camp below. After 2:30 hours of walking uphill, we will reach a view point, which looks across the vast valley of Mesha River and we will also get first sight of Ras-Dashen/4620m/; the highest point in a wall of cliffs and peaks on Skyline at the far side of the valley. We then take a path down at Mesha River and then one hour walk to village of Ambiko, where we will camp for 2 nights. (Camping Ambiko) Ambiko-Ras-Dashen-Ambiko/21 kms/

Day6- 8-9 hours walking to climb to the highest point in Ethiopia and the fourth in

Africa. We climb slowly and steadily through Giant Lobelia forest for about 5 hours before a steep scramble for 40 minutes to the summit. On the summit we will take an hour rest to take in the spectacular panorama. Before you, in clear weather there is a possibility of seeing as far as Eritrea. From the top it takes about 3 hours to get back to Ambiko.

(Camping Ambiko) Ambiko-Bahwit peak-Chenke/28kms/ Day7- This morning we go back to Chenke via Bahwit peak /4430m/, with one hour walk downhill to Mesha Rivers and 4 hours with an uphill to half of the Bahwit peak and have picnic lunch on the summit. From here you can see exactly where you have been the last 2 days and also you can see the Chain of the Ras-Dashen. Then walking down for about an hour to chenke you will see the Ibex. Our last night of the trek will be a very special evening!! (Camping Chenke) Chenke-Sankaber-Gondar/158kms drive back to Gondar/

Day 8- After breakfast we walk around to see the amazing views of Chenke and drive

back to Gondar in the afternoon. (Overnight Gondar)

Day9- Fly back to Addis Abeba.

2- Highland and the lowland trek/9 days/AddisGondar-Sankaber-Geech-Chenke-Ambiko-Sona-Mekarbya-Mullet-Adarki-Gondar

Addis-Gondar-Bauit-Ras-Sankaber /125 kms driving hours is 3.30 and 7 kms trekking distance/

Day 1. Drive from Gondar to Bauit-Ras /3000m/, 125 kms, for about 3:30 hours, to

start 9 days trekking in the Simiens Mountains. The Word Simien mean North in Amharic, which is our official language. Simien Mountains has been registered since the late 1960s by UNESCO as a world heritage site. Simien Mountains is a highland in the Northern part of Ethiopia consisting of the most spectacular mountains scenery in the world and it’s called the Roof of Africa. We walk for about 1:30 hours to get to the first camp of the Simien Mountains National Park known as Sankaber /3250m/. We can observe the beautiful landscape and animals like Gelada Baboon or Bleeding heart

Baboon or lion monkey. After we arrive Sankaber, we can have a tea break and perhaps have time to see some views and walk around Sankaber to acclimatize to the altitude.

(Camping Sankaber) Sankaber-Geech/18 kms/ Day2.Trek to Geech/ 3580m/ for about 5-6 hours. We start our trekking by following the escarpment to Gean- Bar Falls for 1:30 hours. Here we can see bird life such as vultures, European griffin, lammergeyers...etc. After one and half hour walk to Gean-Bar river, we will have a picnic lunch and climb steadily for about 2 hours then we reach the village of Geech after. We camp at beautiful sites situated 30 minutes further from the village of Geech. (Camping Geech) Geech-Immet gogo-Intye-Chenke/29 kms/

Day 3.To day we trek to Chenke via the Summit of Immet gogo /3926m/, where it is

possible to see the lowlands and gain an awesome perspective of this incredible mountain range. The animals to be seen around here are Gelada Baboon and Walia Ibex / wild goat/ endemic to Simiens, living narrow vertical areas and trek along the whole escarpments to Chenke/3620m/, which is bounded by a semicircular ring of cliff. It takes about 7-8 hours of trekking, with some steeps up and down passing the Intye Mountains /4070m/ and there we will have a picnic lunch. (Camping Chenke) Chenke-Bahwit peak-Ambiko/28kms/

Day4. We walk about 6-7 hours to Ambiko/3200m/ at the foot hill of Ras-Dashen

and go half way up to the Bahwit peak /4430m/, the second highest mountain in the chain, for an incredible sight of our camp below. After 2:30 hours of walking uphill, we will reach a view point, which looks across the vast valley of Mesha River and we will also get first sight of Ras-Dashen/4620m/; the highest point in a wall of cliffs and peaks on Skyline at the far side of the valley. We then take a path down at Mesha River and then one hour walk to village of Ambiko, where we will camp for 2 nights. (Camping Ambiko) Ambiko-Ras-Dashen-Ambiko/21kms/ Day 5. 8-9 hours walking to climb to the highest point in Ethiopia and the fourth in Africa. We climb slowly and steadily through Giant Lobelia forest for about 5 hours before a steep scramble for 40 minutes to the summit. On the summit we will take an hour rest to take in the spectacular panorama. Before you, in clear weather there is a possibility of seeing as far as Eritrea. From the top it takes about 3 hours to get back to Ambiko.

(Camping Ambiko) Ambiko-Arkazye-Sona/22 kms/

Day 6.This morning we leave for Sona /3000m/, and trek for 5-6 hours. One hour down the hill of Mesha River and 2 hours up the hill and then 3 hours walking on a flat beautiful farm land and landscape. Today we will have opportunity to observe the life style of the Simien people.

(Camping Sona)

Sona-Mekarbya/14 kms/ Day7. we walk to Mekarbya /2000m/ about 5-6 hours, taking 3 hours to descend 1000 meters to the more rugged lowlands, where only the strongest travelers venture. Looking up wards the escarpments, you can see where you have been over the last 5 days.

These valleys have extensive forest and we take the path to Ansya Rivers, where we have picnic lunch and one hour walk to our camp site of Mekarbya.

(Camping Mekarbeya) Mekarbya-Mullet/18 kms/

Day8. Walk to Mullet, about 5-6 hours, which is our last camp site. One hour down the hill, one hour on flat terrain, followed by two hours steep climbing and finish with one and half hour flat terrain. Our last night of the trek will be a very special evening!

Listening to the traditional music of the Masenko and watching the traditional dance of the crew / Muleteers, scout...etc. (Camping Mullet) Mullet-Adarkai-Gondar/8 kms/ driving hours is 5 hours/

Day9. Walk to Adarkay/ the main road/, which is about 2 hours down the hill and

30 minute on flat surface. Drive back to Gondar for about 185 kms which is a 4 hours drive.

(Over night Gondar)

Day10. Fly back to Addis Abeba.

For more information, contact Ethiopian Quadrants PLC with the following addresses:

Ethiopian Quadrants PLC To the four corners of the country P.O Box1021, Code1250 Addis Abeba, Ethiopia Tel: (251) 011 5157990, 011 5544635/6 Fax: (251) 11 554 66 44 E mail: ethiopianquadrants@gmail.com ethiopianquadrants@ethionet.et.

Web: www.ethiopianquadrants.com

Lalibela

Photo By: Solomon Bisrat

Northern Ethiopia

Lalibela and its Rock Hewn Churches (World Heritage Site) Situated at an altitude of about 2500 meters above sea level, the town of Lalibela is 700 Km north of Addis Abeba and 300 Km from Bahir Dar. The quiet town is one of the most historic towns in Ethiopia. Set amidst the Lasta Mountains, Lalibela was actually called by its ancient name of Roha up until recent times. At the peak of the Zagwe dynasty’s (1150-1270) power, in the 12th and 13th centuries, Roha was the capital of the Ethiopian empire and the name Lalibela is that of its greatest and most famous ruler, the 12th century Saint-King Lalibela.

Lalibela is famous for its intricately carved rock-hewn churches, built by the King Lalibela who, according to legend, had the help of angels in completing the monumental task of sculpting entire churches out of single pieces of rocks. It should be noted that aside from building these churches over the course of a quarter of a century, King Lalibela was also responsible for the construction of the old St. Mary of Zion Church in Lalibela, where the Ark of the Covenant presumably resided before it was moved to the newer chapel built by Emperor Haile Selassie.

To describe any one of the churches of Lalibela as a manmade wonder would simply be an understatement. Even the Portuguese Embassy’s Chaplain and chronicler, Francisco Alvarez, the first European to lay eyes on the site in the 1520s, was overly concerned that no one back home would believe his description of the Lalibela churches as being accurate as we can see from the following excerpt which is taken from what he penned after visiting the town: “I doubt whether anyone believes if I write more about the rock hewn churches of Lalibela. Even readers will say what I have said so far is not true…the ultimate in rockchurch design, one is amazed at the technical skill, the material resources and the continuity of effort which such vast undertaking simply….I swear by God, in whose power I am, that all that is written is the truth and there is much more than I have already written, and I have left it that they may not tax me with being falsehood.”

There are two main groups of churches in Lalibela, one on each side of the river Jordan, and another one set apart from the rest. Between the two groups of churches lies the small town of Lalibela, set on a vast plateau of rock.

All in all there are about twelve churches in the area including chapels and shrines, of these four are of the rock-hewn monolithic type, which means that they imitate built up structures but are in fact carved from a single rock which has been disconnected from the surrounding rocks by a deep channel running all around it. Examples of these types of churches in Lalibela include Bet MedhaneAlem (House of Our Lord the Redeemer of the World), Bet Giorgis (House of St. George) and Bet Mariam (House of the Virgin Mary).

332

Lalibela

Yemrehane Kristos Church

Most experts agree that these types of churches can’t be found anywhere else in the world. Other types of churches in and around Lalibela include the other two types of rock churches which can be found throughout the north of Ethiopia, namely built up cave churches such as Yemrehane Kristos 42 Km north of Lalibela, which is a church built within a cave, and rock-hewn cave churches cut inwards from a flat cliff face such as Abba Libanos Church in Lalibela.

A description of some of the major churches of Lalibela follows:

Bet Medhane Alem–supported by 72 gigantic pillars, the imposing Bet Mad-

haneAlem Church is the largest of all the churches of Lalibela. Within this monolithic church are three empty graves whose purpose is a symbolical one, one each for the biblical figures Abraham, Isaac and Jacob.

With a bit of luck and/or good timing, one might even get a glimpse of one of the most famous crosses in all of Ethiopia named “Afro Aygeba” which means‘will not return embarrassed (without performing miracles)’ in Amharic. This apparently powerful cross is only displayed on some holidays or Sundays and was only recently returned to its rightful place after having been stolen and sold abroad.

Bet Mariam– the free standing monolithic church of Bet Mariam is a quaint double storeyed structure which is a favorite of pilgrims. It is believed to be the oldest of all the Lalibela churches which were all built approximately 800 years ago.

Frescoes depicting biblical scenes lend character to the walls of Bet Mariam and a cross in the shape of a swastika can also be seen carved into windows. The pool in the courtyard contains holy water which the devout believe will cure female sterility amongst other ailments.

Bet Amanuel – arguably the most architecturally impressive edifice in Lalibela, the freely standing monolithic church of Bet Amanuel is a magnificent, multi-level building unlike any other. The entire façade is covered by painstakingly carved, horizon-

333

Northern Ethiopia

tal even contours which give an especially striking character to the church.

Windows cut to resemble Axumite stelae offer evidence of continuity from the great Axumite builders and a deep, dark subterranean tunnel connects the compound to another church: Bet Merkorios which houses several ecclesiastic treasures such as wooden bound manuscripts, brass and gold crosses as well as paintings depicting the crucifixion of Christ done on cotton fabrics.

Bet Giorgis – this incredible cross shaped building has come to represent not only the architectural marvels of Lalibela but is also something of a poster child for all the other historical and religious attractions of Ethiopia.

It is a freely standing monolithic church which some believe to symbolize the fact that the birth and death of Jesus are underground, owing to the church’s setting beneath the ground so much so that one cannot catch a glimpse of it until the moment that he/she is standing over it.

The complex lies on a large rock bed into which the courtyard is excavated to hold the monolithic church. The entrance is located in the lower part of the courtyard, where water is collected and channeled into a drainage conduit that passes below the threshold. The church is a Greek cross in plan and has twelve sides with windows and doors.

On the flat roof-fully visible from the edge of the gigantic trench containing the sanctuary – a triple cross is carved, the same cross that is the theme of the plan.

One of the most well preserved of all the Lalibela churches, owing to the drainage system and the great resilience of the rock, Bet Giorgis is unique for its elegance, its harmonious proportions within the surrounding environment and the coherence and perfection of its structure.

Nature enthusiast visitors would be thrilled to visit off the beaten trail of Abune Yoseph Community Conservation Area, only 40 Km from the churches of Lalibela.

334

Ethiopian Holidays Package TOUR NAME: Addis Ababa & Lalibela TOUR CODE: EH-102 ITINERARY: Lalibela DURATION: 04 nights and 05 days VALIDITY: December 31, 2015 Contact Info:- Email: Info@et-holidays.com, Tel: +251-116-184-360

Abune Yoseph Community Conservation Area (ACCA) Compiled from the document produced by FZS (Frankfurt Zoological Society in Ethiopia, www.fzs.org) Huddled in the northeastern highlands of Ethiopia and only 40km from the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, the Abune Yoseph Community Conservation Area (ACCA) is a hidden jewel of Ethiopian birds and mammals. The Afromontane forest is amongst the region’s most pristine and secluded natural wonders, offering breathtaking views, endemic birds and wildlife species including the iconic Ethiopian wolf and gelada as well as the third highest peak in the country; the Abune Yoseph peak (4280m).

Abune Yoseph is unique for the enormous landscape that offers impressive views over the Afro alpine plateau as well as into the Tekeze valley. The plateau itself boasts an unspoiled highland environment bursting with unique flora and fauna. Abune Yoseph is endowed with 43 species of mammal, including seven of the 32 Abyssinian endemics.

Over a quarter of all of the birds found in Ethiopia can be seen in and around Abune Yoseph.

Located just a one and half day trek (one day if in peak condition) or a two hour drive and three hour trek from the medieval city of Lalibela, Abune Yoseph is an ideal destination in its own right as well as perfectly located to make a detour from Lalibela.

Furthermore, it is a point of interest off the beaten path of the well traveled historical route, which allows you to experience the Ethiopia rich in natural heritage.

Even though ACCA is not far from the tourist hub of Lalibela, for years both tourists and nature enthusiasts have passed it completely unaware of the rich potential. Currently, very few visitors venture to Abune Yoseph to appreciate and admire its natural and cultural beauty. By sharing information about ACCA, we hope that people are encouraged to visit it, thereby supporting guture conservation as well as generating income for the communities and providing the experience of a lifetime.

The Abune Yoseph massif, with a maximum altitude of 4284m, is placed on the very extreme of the northeastern edge of the Ethiopian highlands. It is part of the northwestern highland massif surrounding and defining the upper Tekeze River, and is limited to the east by the fault escarpment of the Rift Valley depression. The ridge continues northwards to the Tigrean Plateau through lower systems and westwards to the Simien Mountains (4600m), which is connected by a chain of lower mountain systems (10002000m).

The area is characterized by steep cliffs and jagged peaks. The area’s diverse topography includes several high plateaus surrounded by gigantic eroded abysses dotted with the three highest peaks: the Big Zigit (4080m), the Small Zigit (4035m) and the Rim Gedel or Abune Yoseph peak (4284m) which is the third highest peak in the country.

The area’s diverse topography includes mountain chains cross cut by gorges and valleys that offer breathtaking views. From the starting point of the trek, valleys dissect the ageold agrarian landscape. Then the landscape gives way to an open, flat and moderately grazed mosaic of grass steppe. The first section of ACCA has a rugged topography with dotted peaks with large crags surrounded by gorges and very steep slopes, where rocky blocks and stones are scattered all over. Rim Gedel or Abune Yoseph peak dramatically divides the steep northern slopes and the plains. The western part is dominated by large, vertical cliffs and very steep slopes. Several streams traverse the area.

The Abune Yoseph area is made up of a diversity of vegetation types including bushlands, woodlands, montane dry forests, and Afroalpine grasslands. The massif is made up of three main ecosystems: the montane dry forest, montane grassland and the Afroalpine ecosystem, which exists in altitudinal belts from 2000m to 4284m.

Wildlife

Wildlife highlights along these routes include the Ethiopian Wolf, Gelada and a wealth of bird species. Other species to look out for include the golden jackal, hyena, caracal, leopard, rock hyrax, duiker, hlipspringer and Starck’s hare.

Ethiopian Wolf

The Ethiopian wolf is the rarest canid in the world, and Africa’s most threatened carnivore. The closest living relatives of the Ethiopian wolves are grey wolves and coyotes.

The Ethiopian wolf is restricted to just six isolated mountain top areas of the Ethiopian highlands. With a total world population of between 400 to 520 individuals, it is highly endangered. As a result it is legally protected in the country from any activities that many threaten its survival. Rapidly expanding cattle and crop farming are severe threats, as well as diseases such as rabies and canine distemper transmitted from domestic dogs.

Gelada

The gelada is the only living member of the once widespread genus Theropithecus and is only found in the highlands of Ethiopia. The present day distribution of the gelada is limited to the steep escarpments and gorges that border the eastern side of the central highlands and the northwestern highlands of Ethiopia. The gelada feeds predominantly on fresh shoots of grass which make up 90 percent of their diet. The gelada is the only grass-eating monkey. Geladas are not as good at digesting grass as hoofed animals so they have to eat more grass that they spend 50 to 70 percent of their time eating. Furthermore, they rely on a type of grass that is high in protein and only grows at higher altitudes.

The gelada is also called the ‘bleeding heart’ as a result of the distinctive, bright red, heart-shaped patch on its chest which signals reproductive state for females and strength for males. Geladas produce almost 30 different types of calls. Herds of geladas can reach up to 1100 animals. The population of gelada in the Abune Yoseph area is stable and can be seen year round.

Birds

Of the 860 species of bird found in Ethiopia, over 220 have been identified on the Abune Yoseph massif. The Abune Yoseph area is one of the most important bird areas in the country. The Abune Yoseph Mountains also attract a few pairs of golden eagles; a species that is more common in Bale Mountains to the south.

Lammergeyer or Bearded Vulture

One of the largest and most spectacular birds in Ethiopia, this enormous bird has a wingspan of over 2m. They are often seen soaring alone along high cliffs and rock outcrops looking for food. Clocked at speeds of 130km/hr and flying at staggering heights with barely a beat of its gigantic wings, they are a magnificent sight.

Lammergeyers wait patiently until other scavengers finish picking meat off a carcass to make their move. They soar down to retrieve a whole bone and return to the sky.

From there, the bird picks up speed, pointing the bone forwards to reduce air resistance, and heads for an area of open rock. As it nears the dropping zone, the bearded vulture dips sharply to increase velocity and releases the bone to fall and break on the rocks below. They are incredibly accurate at estimating where and when to drop the bone they usually hit an area of 4 square meters while soaring at a height of 30 to 40meters. As the bone shatters, the bird descends rapidly, turning into the wind, spreading its tail and flapping its wings to brake. They swallow the bone shards whole a s their gastric fluids are so strong that they can easily digest b on e .

The lammergeyer is the only animal that feeds almost exclusively on bone (70 to 90 percent of their diet!).

The reddish plumage on the neck and under parts of the bird comes from iron oxide that they rub onto themselves from stones and dust. In ACCA, lammergey- ers are frequently seen soaring along the edges of the cliffs in search of food.

The starting point for all tours is Lalibela. According to your favored way of travel, you can reach Abune Yoseph by a one and a half day trek by mule and on foot (one day if in peak condition) or a two and a half hour drive followed by a two to three hour hike.

You are free to choose whether to ride or walk as you make your way to the highest community lodge in Africa. However, it is recommended to take mules as a precaution because climbing to an altitude of 4,200 meters can be exhausting. The mules can carry a maximum of around 40kg. No prior riding experience is required.

It is recommended that guests spend a minimum of two nights at the lodge to experience everything the area has to offer. Highlights include watching the sunrise from the top of the third highest mountain in the country, a visit to the 14th century Abune Yoseph monastery and spotting the endemic gelada and Ethiopian wolf.

For Treks to be arranged in combination with a visit to the Abune Yoseph Community Conservation Area visit www.tesfatours.com or www.lalibelactge.com or your tour operator.

Lalibela

Hotels

338

Lalibela

Hotels

339

Lalibela

Hotels

340

Lalibela

Hotels

341

Northern Ethiopia

Sekota

It is the capital of Wag-Himra administration zone and an ancient Agew principality that converted to Christianity as early as the 6th century. It is thought to have been an important center of political power during the era that followed the collapse of the Axumite Empire and preceded the rise of the Zagwe Dynasty at Lalibela. The town’s main attraction is the Church of Webila Mariam, which is at least 200 years old and contains several 19th century paintings. Among the other historical and cultural attractions the Mesqele-Kristos Rock Hewn Church and Shaday festival are worth to be mentioned. Mesqele-Kristos Rock Hewn Church lies about 6 Km south of Sekota, just ten minutes walk east of the road to Korem/Lalibela. Women are forbidden to enter this little church and it has been covered in scaffolding since 1998.

Shaday Festival: is a cultural annual festival (from August 24 to 26) played by Wag

Himra girls. The festival has got its name from the type of grass, Shaday that grows in the locality during the rainy season in which the girls tie around their waist while playing.

From Sekota you can cross to the Tigrai state of Maychew enroute to the capital Mekelle by using the secondary road from Sekota to Maichew via Korem or to Adwa via Abiy Adi visiting some rock hewn churches along the way.

Woldiya

The town of Woldiya provides a springboard for visits northwest to Lalibela, north to Mekelle or south to Addis Abeba through Dessie.

Dessie

It is the capital of South Wolo Zone of the Amhara region. It is 400km north from the capital, and serves as a breaking point for travelers between Woldia or Mekelle and Addis Abeba. Dessie Museum, Ayiteyef Hall and Wolo Cultural Amba are places to see while you are in town.

Around Dessie: Hayq Estifanos Church and Lake Logo – The small town of Hayq with its green

hills and the lake though not frequently visited by travelers have a magnificent setting.

The monastery named after the town is 30 km on the Dessie –Woldiya road and only 2km northeast of the town there is a beautiful lake known as Lake Logo. The lake supported by the surrounding fields and forest is an interesting place for variety of waterbirds and other bird species. You will also see traditional fishermen on papyrus tankwas (Amharic word for small traditional boats) over the lake.

Maqdalla Hill – situated 100km northwest of Dessie and about 18km from the town of Tenta, the starting point for the hikes to Maqdalla. It’s a place where Emperor Tewodros took his own life rather than face capture while fighting with the British forces in 1868. The beautiful scenery at the top of the mountain at an altitude of around 2900m, the Sebastopol and the fortifications erected by the emperor are still there to be seen. Trekking to Maqdalla can be carried out as a day trip from Tenta using mules and walking or you can camp on the hill.

342

Bati and Kemissie

Kombolcha- is an attractive town and the site of the main airport, situated just 25km south east of Dessie. It serves as a base for a day trip to Bati and to the monolithic sculpture of a lion at Geta. The yegof forest rich in wildlife such as the Menelik’s bushbuck, monkey, leopard and other small mammals and many bird species is also situated on the ridge overlooking Kombolcha.

Bati and Kemissie

Bati and Senbete Markets

Bati is an Oromo town in northern Ethiopia, located 415km north of Addis Abeba and 40 km east of Kombolcha. Where the highlands and the lowlands meet, people from different ethnic groups are brought together. The Oromo, Amhara, Guraghe, Argoba, and Afar, with their camels and distinctive knives, converge to buy, sell, and exchange many types of goods here. The landscape and scenery are very beautiful. Bati Market is huge, chaotic, and covers an entire hillside. It is one of the most interesting markets in Africa. The buying and selling process, from cereals to camels, is fascinating. If in the area at the right time of the week, either of the markets is well worth the relatively minor diversion, not only for the sheer scale of the phenomenon, but also for getting a glimpse of a facet of Ethiopian life that is very different from anything encountered in the highlands. As the second biggest market in Ethiopia, after Addis Abeba’s Mercato,

Bati Market is held every Monday. Senbete’s takes place the day before, every Sunday.

Senbete is only 9km south of Ataye and the best open traditional market after the Bati Market. From Bati you can cross to the desert dwelling people of Afar through Mile.

Kemissie: is another busy little oromo town located at 325km from Addis Abeba and

50km south of Kombolcha. Borkana wetland only 8km south of the town Kemissie is an ample birdlife area.

343

Borkana and Aweyitu Hotsprings

The Aweyitu and Borkana hot springs are natural tourist attractions found near Shonke.

Borkena Hot Springs is two meters deep and 8km south of Kemise. The steamy spring is found on a plain near Shonke Mosque.

Aweyitu Hot Springs is found in Senbete, which is 260km northeast of Addis Abeba, toward Dessie. The spring is four Km east of the town. The name Aweyitu is derived from the Oromiffa word o’aa, which means hot. The hot springs have three large and 6 small pools, with a loud, roaring noise that can be heard underground.

The landscape is graced with streams, which, in combination with the springs, give the area extraordinary natural beauty. The local community uses the springs for different purposes, including curing different kinds of diseases and prolonged muscle pain. In addition, they use it to boil meat and maize, make tea, and wash clothes.

Borkana and Aweyitu Hotsprings

Photo by: Antonio Fiorente www.antoniofiorente.com

Shonke Village

Northern Ethiopia

Tirusina

Tirusina Mosque, which was built in 1960, is 11km from Kemise Town toward Kombolcha and, then, five Km to the east. It is a place surrounded by natural beauty.

In the mosque, Muslims (male and female) spend their whole lives fasting, praying, and preparing Islamic books. Amazingly, female and male Muslims who serve both sexes in separate rooms during holidays are always available in the mosque. The mosque was built based on a cultural model. It has different rooms arranged for different purposes.

For example, it has a coffee room, meat room, honey room, and storeroom. Moreover, all serving equipment found in the mosque is by nature very big and wide. For instance, a big coffee pot, a big coffee grinder, and a big coffee plate that can hold around 190 coffee cups are some.

Shonke Village

The Argoba people are one of those people said to have shared a common line of descent with the Muslim followers who migrated to Ethiopia in the 7th century. Shonke is one of those places where the Argoba people live.The village is found in Dewa Chefa District, 25km east of Kemissie. The houses and the mosque in Shonke are built on a treed slope with unique architecture, including white stonewalls and flat, sandy roofs supported by wood beams. The flat roofs are used to dry grain and as a place to sit and relax. Visitors are encouraged to ascend to the roofs at the top of the hill for the complete experience, including beautiful views. Sheik Feki Ahmed is said to have been the founder of the village. But, Juhar Haider bin Ali, an Islamic teacher and respected leader, was later renamed Sheik Shonke, after whom the village is named. In the time of Sheik Shonke, people from Guraghe Zone, the City of Jimma, as well as all the way from neighboring Yemen were said to visit this village for Islamic education. Today, most members of the community are capable of speaking Argoba, Oromiffa, Amharic, and Arabic.

It is believed that the Toleha Village and its mosque, which are found near Shonke Village, predate the foundation of Shonke and its mosque. Sheik Feki Ahmed is said to have been the founder of the village.

Debre Sina Amharic for ‘Mount Sinai’ is the next Amhara town after Shoa Robit. Shoa Robit is located south of Ataye with a colorful market on Wednesdays and can serve as the base to visit the Merkorios Monastery (known for an old painting of Saint Merkorios on horseback), only 32 km between Robit and Debresina.

Debresina town situated at the northern foot of the immense Mezezo Escarpment and 60 km north of Debre Birhan on the road between Dessie and the capital is chilly and though not much to be seen in town, it is surrounded by monasteries that lie along roads branching northwest from Tarmaber. The road between Debresina and Tarmaber passes through a magnificent Italian built tunnel. There are two cave churches or monasteries (Adkanu Mariam and Adjana Mikael) once you head to Tarmaber and turn 20 km west on a side road to Sela Dingay.

348

Northern Ethiopia

Borena Sayint National Park (BSNP)

With its attractive landscape, the forest of BSNP is home to numerous birds, plant species and large mammals. The park headquarters is on the western side of the town on a small road running north off the main gravel road. Mekane Selam, the capital of Debre Sina serves as a base for visits to the BSNP. It is connected to Dessie by 180 km of rough road or on the road crossing the new bridge over the Blue Nile east of Dejen to the west.

The park is home to the endemic Abyssinian catbird, Abyssinian woodpecker and other bird species and large mammals such as black and white colobus, bushbuck and many others like the endemic Ethiopian wolf and gelada are also to be seen. An information center has been built by the the Frankfurt Zoological Society. Five trekking routes have been developed in the park and camping is also possible. For more information on the routes and possible accommodation in the park you can contact the Frankfurt Zoological Society or visit www.fzs.org.

Paradise Ethiopia Travel

Established in 1997, Paradise Ethiopia Travel operates high-quality customised tours to Ethiopia with profound knowledge and experience, mostly off the beaten track. With a head office in Addis and 11 branches throughout the country, it is the most organised tour operator in Ethiopia.

Tel : +251 116 62 6623 +251 116 62 5728 Email: pet@ethionet.et fitsum@paradiseethiopia.com www.paradiseethiopia.com

349

Spot Breasted Lapwing Ethiopian Endemic Bird Species found in GCCA

Photo By: Eliza Richman

Menz Guassa Community Conservation Area Location:- From Addis Abeba, take the road north toward Kombolcha and Dessie (Asmara Road). Pass Debre Berhan to Tamra Ber (180km on asphalt road). At Tamra Ber, a right turn at the first junction leads to Mehal Meda (80km on gravel road).

The Guassa Community Conservation Area (GCCA) is endowed with stunning views, an abundance of wildlife, and much more. This is a destination not to be missed.

The GCCA is found in North Shoa Zone, Menz-Gera Midir Wereda, Amhara Regional State. The GCCA is among the Ethiopian Highlands’ most pristine and secluded natural wonders. Along the one and a half-hour drive (80km) from TamraBer, the hustle and bustle of urban life fades into the slower pace of the traditional Menz Village. The plateau itself commands breathtaking views and numerous endemic bird and wildlife species, including the iconic Ethiopian wolf (Canissimiensis) and Geleda (Theropiticus gelada).

The area is managed as a common property resource by communities living adjacent to the area. This indigenous management system has been traced back to the 17th century and is one of the oldest exemplary conservation management systems in Sub-Saharan Africa. At present, the Guassa user communities live in nine kebeles adjacent to the Guassa Community Conservation Area, and the area is managed by the Guassa Conservation Council.

Ecotourism development in the GCCA is promoted by the Frankfurt Zoological Society to generate alternative income for Guassa user communities. For its promotion, the project established the Guassa Community Lodge and designated wilderness campgrounds, which are managed by the council.

Guassa community ecotourism offers a wide variety of products and services, ranging from four-day treks to one-night stays with short treks. Visitors have the opportunity to tour the traditional Menz Village, enjoy a longer trekking experience, ride mules, and camp overnight. The income generated from tourism goes to the community and helps the conservation of the Guassa area.

Where to Stay and Eat The Guassa Community Lodge is nestled between the magnificent mountain scenery and afro-alpine meadows of the Guassa Plateau, situated some 260km away from the capital, Addis Abeba. The lodge is built using local, onsite materials. Currently, there are five twin bedrooms and one separate seating and dining room. There is a bathroom block, running coldwater showers and Asian-style toilets. There are also campgrounds around the lodge area, where pitching a tent, which can also be provided, is possible.

Even with bad weather, the comforts of a lit fireplace and barbecue in the seating room can be enjoyed. No food is provided, but all of the cooking facilities are free to use.

For more information, visit www.guassaarea.org Contact: info@guassaarea.org.

Northern Ethiopia

Debrebirhan

Amharic word for ‘Mountain of Light’ is a highland town located 130 km northeast of Addis Abeba via Sendafa and Sheno. It is an old town founded in 1456 by Emperor Zara Yaeqob and famous for its church, Debre Birhan Sellassie. The original church built by Emperor Zara Yaeqob was ruined by the Ahmed Gragn war. But the existing church of Debre Birhan Sillassie built by Emperor Menelik II in 1906, on the site first selected by Emperor Zara Yaeqob, is one of the most beautiful churches in the country. The church decorated with marvelous paintings has a rich treasure of crowns, crosses, ornamented umbrellas and manuscripts. Debrebirhan is famous for the woolen carpets and blankets manufactured by co-operatives. The town is also significant logistically for birdwatching tours as it is the closest large town to Ankober. It is the last large town on your way down to Addis Abeba from the North.

Ankober

Ankober town is located at 42km east of Debre Birhan. Ankober was founded in 1741 by one of the kings of Showa, Merid Azmach Amha Iyesus (1741-1775) and in its heydays, had been serving as a seat of six kings of Showa until the end of 1860s.

Ankober has served as a royal prison for some Ethiopian kings since the time of Emperor Yikuno Amlak (1270-1285). For example, Emperor Amde Tsion was said to have temporarily camped there. There are also evidences that Emperor Libne-Dingil had started to rebuild Balewold church at this place.

However, the history of Ankober as a town got dominance when the Showa monarchs had been strengthened and started expansion in the Menz (16731889). Ankober served as the capital or joint capital of Showa, up until 1878 when emperor Menelik II relocated his capital to the Entoto hills.

Since Ankober was a convenient place to control the rival muslim Sudan and the Oromo monarchs as well as to control the caravan trade route which used to extend from the central Ethiopia to the port of Zeila, it was strategically significant.

The town was made a constant center for kings of Showa by King Sahle Selassie who was crowned in the 19th century (1814-1848). Since the king was keenly encouraging craftsmen, various craftworks were practiced at Ankober.

Accordingly, there were over a thousand

352

Ankober

carpenters, masons, especially gunpowder processors, weapon makers and blacksmiths working under the royal administration.

In spite of this, noblemen burnt the palace at Ankober when king Sahle Selassie’s successor, Haile Melekot , was crowned as emperor. Evidences indicate that Ankober was later invaded by Emperor Thewodros’ army (1863-1876) and the town was badly destroyed due to the war. However, it was eventually re-established and regained its former grandeur in the 1870s after Menelik’s return.

Currently, in addition to the ruins of Emperor Menelik’s palace, there are five churches built at different ages and a modern lodge in Ankober. These churches are Ankober Giorgis built by Amha Iyesus in 1741, Ankober Mariam built by Asfawossen in 1775, Ankober Mika’el in 1825 and Afer Bayne Tekle Haimanot in 1829 built by king Sahle Selassie, Medhane Alem church, where Emperor Menelik and Etege Taitu received the matrimonial Holy Communion in 1883 and whose original establishment had begun in 1780 and later finished in 1854, by king Haile Melekot.

Along the road you can see gelada monkeys and Ethiopian wolves if you are lucky enough and it’s also an ideal place for bird watching.

353

Tigrai the northernmost part of the country ‘The Cradle of ancient Ethiopian Civilization’ Photo Credit of the Tigrai Section: The Tigrai Culture and Tourism Agency

Tigrai Recognized as the cradle of ancient Ethiopian civilization, Tigrai is a vast region in the northernmost part of the country which shares common borders with Eritrea in the north, the State of Afar in the east, the State of Amhara in the south, and the Republic of the Sudan in the west.

The region covers an area about 54,572.61 square km and according to a 2007 census, the population was 4,314,456 of which 2,124,453 were males and 2,189,603 were females.

Centuries of erosion, deforestation and over grazing have left the region with dry and treeless plains, hills and plateau. Nevertheless, the region is dotted with patches of forest like Higumbirda, Desa and Kafta Humera, while Lake Hashenge is recognized as an important bird nesting ground.

Land along the Tekezze gorge, is covered with trees which protect birds and animals of different species. Elephant, Leopard, Klipspringer and bush buck are among the wild animals that are found in the state of Tigrai.

The state is headed by a president who is elected by the council of the state and is divided into six administrative zones and one city administration. Excluding Mekelle town, the state capital, there are six administrative zones: comprising a total of 47 Weredas (districts) and 673 Tabias (sub-districts).

Tigringa, a language derived from the ancient Geez, is the official language of the region while small minorities speak other languages such as Erobinga, Kunaminga and Agew in their respective communities.

Two international (Mekelle & Humera) and one modern Airport (Axum) provide access to the region but it is also possible to reach Tigrai by taking buses that leave Addis early in the morning to cover the 783 km road to Mekelle in one day. Within Tigrai itself, the bus service is reasonably efficient and all-embracing. The coverage of buses for Maichew, Adigrat, Zalanbesa and Adwa, Abi Addi and Indasilassie Shire is excellent. There are usually at least two buses a day between larger towns and about one bus a day between smaller ones.

Route Map of Sites of Tigrai from Mekelle

To A

Mon Debreastdery of amo

ple

m a Te Yeh

xu

m

Enticho To zalanbesa

Bizet

wa Ad

Monastery of Gundagundo Eyesus Guhagal

Monastery of Abune Gerima

Adigrat

m ge Ha

City / Town Rock - hewn church Monastery Mosque Archeolgical Site

ana To D

ba l Im

st

fore

Mi

De

Agula’e

Mekelle

Key

se’a

kae

Mikae l Debrs elam

re S

Adi akawh Archaeological site

Asphalt Road Gravel Road

Kilisha Emni

Wukro

kil

adikesho

sh

ga

Ne

Atsbi

di i-A Ab

Yohanes Maqudi

ela

fay

Abreha we Atsbeha

Haykimeskal

Degum Slassie

Debretsion

ta

oko To s

Mariam Korkor

s TekaTe

Abune Yemata

cherkqos

ni

Abune G/Mikael

Z

Gheralta

a)

G wuebrie kie l n

Petros wepawlos

(Sin

Hawzien

kat

Maykinetal

yni

Nebelet

Medhanialem

e Frew

Edagaarbi

Aba yoh a

us Edaga Ham

Mariam Bahra

Wukro

Mariam Wukro

Z

Mekelle

1. Mekelle Mekelle, the capital city of the Tigrai National Regional State, lies 783 km north of Addis Abeba and according to local historians, was founded in the 13th century. However, its heyday came soon after Emperor Yohannes IV was crowned as king of Ethiopia in 1871. The city is sprawled out on a plain of an area of 24.29 square Km and partly encircled by a chain of mountains. It has a population of about 214,806.

Set at an altitude of 2200 meters above sea level, Mekelle enjoys good weather all year round. Mekelle has more recently witnessed a rapid development. It is also becoming an educational center, with amazing proliferation of institutions of public and private higher learnings.

Mekelle has several hotels and restaurants which serve both traditional and international cuisine. The city has ample medical services and good telecommunication systems which link it to the rest of the country and the world. There are numerous banks which provide foreign currency exchange services. The town is also well known as a transit point for the camel caravans bringing salt up from the arid lands of the Danakil Depression. Intrepid visitors can also make excursions into the Danakil to visit some of the Afar nomads that trek across the region.

Sights to visit in Mekelle Emperor Yohannes IV museum – located opposite the Atse Yohannes hotel, this former palace of Yohannes IV was designed and built by Italian and Moroccan Engineers. The palace is Mekelle’s oldest royal house, built up under Emperor Yohannes IV (1871-1889). The palace contains two buildings facing each other, the bigger one served as a dining room while the smaller was used as the emperor’s bed room. Now the palace is a museum that contains the incredible throne of Emperor Yohannes IV’s, made by the Italian engineer, Giacomo Natreti in 1874. Other royal artifacts such as the emperor’s bed, ceremonial dress, rifles and many other valuable historical collections can be seen in the museum.

Traditional “Hidmo” houses

The Hidmo house is the traditional housing typology in Tigrai and constitutes an important historical heritage. The walls are in cleaved, undressed stone while the mud roofing is supported by timber beams and panels (set in a herring bone pattern) and the floor is in beaten earth. There are a lot of Hidmo houses in kebele 14 built in different times during and after emperor Yohannes-IV’s period. These houses are private so it is only possible to see the external parts. To see the interiors of a Hidmo house, ask the permission of the owner or visit Hidmo Restaurant, in Enkodo Avenue.

Martyr’s Memorial and Museum

Built in 2001 by the Tigrai People Liberation Front (TPLF) in memory of those who fell in the bitter struggle against the Derg regime (1975-1991), the monument has been described as one of the most attractive buildings in the Horn of Africa. The grand av-

357

Tigrai

enue takes you to this breathtaking cultural and civic building complex that also has a modern conference hall and an amusement park. Just north is a museum that hauntingly and proudly exalts the successes and sacrifices made by the TPLF and all of those who struggled against the oppressive communist regime of the Derg.

2. Wukro and Its Surroundings Abraha we Atsbeha Rock-Hewn Church

The small town of Wukro, a 47km drive north of Mekelle is close to Abreha we Atsbeha church, one of the best and largest of the rock-hewn churches of Tigrai. It is supposed to have been built in the 4th century by the two royal Axumite brothers, Abreha and Atsbeha (also known as kings, Ezana and Saizana), who first adopted Christianity as a state religion in Ethiopia. Believed to be of very early origin, this cruciform church resembles the churches of Wukro Cherkos and Mikael Imba with 13 high pillars supporting the ceiling. The interior is very large and is decorated with magnificent 17th century paintings depicting Saints and Biblical scenes. The church contains many valuable masterpieces including the beautifully decorated prayer cross, said to have belonged to Frumentius, the first Bishop of Ethiopia, whose ecclesiastical name was Abba Selama, meaning the father of peace. Many Ethiopians believe that the bodies of Abraha and Atsbeha are buried in the church. Thousands of Pilgrims make the journey to Abraha we Atsbeha every year on Tikimt 4 (14th of October).

Atsbi Area

The town of Atsbi consists of a characteristically attractive Tigrai assemblage of traditional stone house situated at an altitude of around 2500 meters on a plateau some 25 km east of Wukro. In addition to lying along the ancient salt caravans route and modern road between Wukro and the Danakil desert, Atsbi lies at the epicenter of loose sites of important rock – hewn and Axumite churches. Atsbi is connected to Wukro by a good gravel road (and reasonably regular public transport) offering some magnificent views as it ascends the plateau. You can visit the town’s market which is so colorful on Saturdays and the surrounding churches as a day trip from Wukro. The churches around Atsbi include: Mikael Debreselam, Mikael Imba, Mikael Barka, Zarema Giorgis and Cherkos Agebo Church.

- Mikael Imba Rock-Hewn Church Mikael Imba is a superb three quarter monolith, first reported to the outside world by Beatrice Payne in 1948, located 15Km south of Atsbi. Boasting what is probably the most impressive exterior of any rock-hewn church in Tigrai, the west–facing façade of Mikael Imba looks more like a transplant from Lalibela rather than resembling any other church in Tigrai. According to local traditions Mikael Imba dates from the rule of Abreha and Atsbeha, while David Buxton regarded it to be a late 11th or early 12th century excavation. Either way, Mikael Imba must have been the closest thing to a true monolith in existence at the time it was excavated and it seems likely to have served as a model for the style of rock-hewn churches now associated with Lalibela and surrounds. The vast interior is magnificent, and unusually well-lit owing to the large frontal windows. A total of 25 pillars support the 6m high ceiling and although modestly decorated by comparison with the Gheralta churches, the precision of workmanship is

358

Wukro and Its Surroundings

such that it looks as if it was excavated yesterday. Notable features include a large Greek cross hewn in to the ceiling, decorated wooden doors and treasure house containing an ancient metal cross and several old manuscripts. There is also a pool containing holy water outside the church.

- Mikael Debreselam It is situated at an altitude of 2,678m, high on a cliff face about 9Km of Atsbi town as the crow flies. To get there, follow the main road north out of town, which is accessible by 4WD. After about 7Km, a sign post to the left points along the track to the church. This track is memorable until you reach the Hidar River, after about 2Km. The white portico of the church is clearly visible for some distance before you reach the river. The walk to the church takes about 30 minutes along a steep foot path offering great views over the valley below. Mikael Debreselam is undoubtedly the finest church in its architectural design; the church is within a cave. The central door leads in to the anteroom with three huge built columns, a beautiful freestanding arch & built in the Axumite “Sandwich Style” of construction (a layer of wood then a layer of stone), comes in the view. The wood work of the door & window shutters is exquisitely decorated in geometrical patterns including swastika-like symbols. Especially, the window shatter is decorated with very old cloth paintings of the Virgin Mary and Child. The ends of the protruding part of the wood beams one round in shape & their presence adds beauty to the church. It is also known for its wealth of paintings. Many faced murals can be seen on the walls & arches of the sanctuary in which the art influence, according to Pearce, is Byzantine.

Negash Mosque

Negash is a small village located 60 km east of Mekele, the capital of Tigrai region and 10km north of Wukro. You can visit Negash as a day trip from Wukro. It lies on a plateau commanding a view of the spectacular mountains of Gheralta. It serves as enduring reminder of the warm welcome extended by the Ethiopian King of the time when Muslims, including the family of the prophet Mohammed, fleeing persecution in their own land found refuge in Ethiopia during the early years of the 7th century AD. Since then, Negash has been a place of great historical and religious significance in a sense that it is a symbol of peaceful coexistence between Muslim and Christian religions.

Negash Mosque is regarded by many as the second holiest place of the Muslim world.

Negash is famous for the ornate white Arabic-style tomb of Ahmed Negash, and for the recently built mosque, on top of the site of the original mosque. An ancient cemetery has been uncovered, believed to contain the graves of those first Muslims refugees.

There is an annual festival held at Negash, which attracts Muslim pilgrims from all over Ethiopia.

Tseada Imba Area

The Tseada Imba escarpment dotted with various outcrops, lower towards west to allow construction of Mekelle-Adigrat road which crosses Negash, Tseada Imba and Frewoini settlements. The vicinity is best noted to host equally both long lived quarrelsome orthodox Christian and Muslim. The site is easily visited as a day trip from Mekelle in a private vehicle. It consists of three old churches and one new one, each very different and all within 2km of each other. A sign is posted for the site of Tseada Imba to the east of the main Adigrat-Wukro road, roughly 10km south of a similar distance north of Negash. For a visit by a public transport, ask to be dropped at the sign post of the given

359

Tigrai

sites. You can have a head out to the churches independently, but guides are essential to help as interpreters and locate the priests who keep the church keys.

- Petros we Pawlos There is a sign posted to the east of the main wukro-Adigrat high way, at a distance of 25 km. It lies half way up on the cliff, and it is visible from the main road because of the White- washed façade. It is on the top of a bluff, reached by carefully climbing a rickety ladder and platforms placed against the cliff side. The architecture of this church is not very impressive. It does, however, boast some fascinatingly primitive paintings.

On the walls and on the chamber antecedent to the Holy of Holies a number of striking paintings depicting the St. Mary and Child, Angels, the Nine Saints, Christ resurrecting Adam and Eve and many other objects. The church has not been used for several years because of its difficulty to reach. However, ‘Haleka’ Halefom Retta a peasant farmer from a near village started building another church of the same name below the original in 1882. He reported having been ensured to build the church following a visit from the Archangel Gabriel as he slept. The new Petros and Paulos church is 10mx9mx3m.

There are four pillars and the front of the church is made of bricks. The internal rooms are not decorated. The church has been constructed so that it can house three replicas of the Ark of the Covenant.

3. Gheralta and its Surrounding Hawzien

Looping to the west of the main Mekelle - Adigrat road, between Sinkata and Wukro, a well maintained secondary road runs to the small town of Hawzien.

This road passes through a fantastic landscape of flat dry plains and towering rock outcrops of Gheralta. Hawzien is a gateway to the Gheralta region. Hawzien’s market place was bombed from the air by the Derg regime and more than 2500 people died in 1988. The walls of several buildings destroyed by the bombs still stand on the outskirts of the town. In the marketplace, four ancient stelae which are similar with Gudit- Stelae of Axum were knocked over by the bombing. The Church of Hawzien Tekle Haimanot around the town center is also another site to be visited in Hawzien. Megab and Dugem are the closest villages to visit the other more interesting churches.

Gheralta

Gheralta, northwest of Mekele, capital of Tigrai Regional State, is the home of a quarter of the rock -hewn churches of Tigrai. Some are famous for their stone workmanship, ancient paintings, and old manuscripts, and others for their magnificent views and difficult ascents. Such great churches as Abune Yemata (Guh), Mariam Korkor, DebreTsion (Abune Abraham), Yohannes Maekuddi, Abune Gebre Michael, and Selassie Degum are in the very heart of Gheralta.

The scenery of Gheralta is spectacular. The views of the graceful Mount Gheralta and the far-reaching Hawzien Plain are a rare combination of extraordinary beauty. Gheralta can now be approached from the town of Wukro 47km north of Mekele along the main highway, from Senkata by traveling 24km north, or by traveling southwest from Adigrat. The important points in the area, AbrahaAtsbaha, Degum, Megab, Mariam

360

Gheralta and Its Surroundings

Bahra, and Bet YesusGuahgot, are now all connected by a new road, and inaccessibility seems a thing of the past.

The main reason to travel to the Gheralta region is its churches. All are hidden in the sides of fantastically shaped mountains. The churches are frequently decorated with beautiful, old paintings, and the often challenging journey is worth the experience itself. The remote location and the rarified air inside the churches, really leads the mind and senses far away from the hustle and bustle of life.

The Monastery of GundaGundo

While the rock-hewn churches of Tigrai Regional State are only now beginning to be discovered by tourists, some of the churches are so inaccessible, that seeing any other foreigner during a visit to one of them would be downright surprising. One such church is that of the community of GundaGundo.

A new road partway has made the trip much more doable in a day, though it is still like visiting another world. A look into the beliefs and practices of the people who make of the little hamlet, reveal that this may have been exactly what they were trying to create another world.

The mysterious and relatively inaccessible community of GundaGundo is most easily accessed from the little town of Edaga Hamus, which is about 100km north of Mekele, the capital of Tigrai. It lies impressively between a sheer cliff to the west and an escarpment, a common geographical feature in Ethiopia, which drops down toward the Danakil Depression, in Afar Regional State, to the east.

The monastery hosts a church that bears its name, Mariam GundaGundo, dedicated to St Mary. The impressive church is constructed with four cruciform pillars and twelve arches, similar to a few other churches that dot the country. It dominates the scene, both due to its size, compared to other houses in the community, and due to its prominent location.

The old church is well noted for its ancient parchments made of goatskin with colorful illustrations, wood or metal traditional Ethiopian crosses, and kingly crowns. Its annual festival occurs every year on January 29th (or the 30th during Gregorian leap year).

The sanctuary is located near the bottom of a valley and definitely deserves a visit.

Surrounding the community are the massive, cliffy mountains that look like they have been thrown on their side. The rock strata are nearly vertical instead of horizontal, evidencing some cataclysmic force that turned them nearly 90 degrees from the position they were originally laid down.

The green bottom of the valley contrasts with the yellow, gray, brown, and white cliffs surrounding it. There are sweet orange groves, bananas, and other fruit trees at the bottom. The scenery is fantastic and the people at GundaGundo are the friendliest, most generous people. There are around 800 books, written by Aba Estifanos and his predecessors, focusing on spirituality, science, and technology, including 400 found in the church and 400 in libraries abroad.

361

Mekelle

Restaurants - International Cuisine

362

Mekelle

Restaurants - International Cuisine

363

Mekelle

Restaurants - International

364

Adigrat

Hotel

365

Adigrat

Hotel

366

Axum and Surrounding

The people of GundaGundo created a system of milling with wind power hundreds of years ago, and they resisted the feudal system, believing that everyone should reap what they sow. The monastery of GundaGundo is well worth a visit, and there is a new road partway there. Take a bus north from Mekele and get off at the town of EdagaHamus (Thursday Market). If arriving there late in the day, stay at one of the hotels in town.

From there, take another bus east to Michael Gebinen. From there, it is a three to sixhour walk to GundaGundo. Coming back, it might take a bit longer due to elevation gain.

Take lots of water and food because there is nothing until GundaGundo is reached.

However, near GundaGundo, sweet, fresh fruit can be bought from the locals, as well as some fine local beer (suwa) made by the assistants of the monks.

4. Adigrat to Axum Adigrat

It is the second largest town in Tigrai, standing as the junction of the roads to Axum and Mekelle. The Adigrat market is a good place to buy the Tigrian coffee pots and local honey from Alitena. Though there are sites like the Adigrat Church, Catholic Church and the Medhanealem Church to be visited in the town, Adigrat is more convenient to serve as a good base for exploring some of the rock hewn churches and trekking sites.

On the east of Adigrat there are community lodges which are helpful for trekking. For more on the trekking sites visit www.tesfatours.com .

The Monastery of Debre Damo

Perched 11km north of the Axum- Adigrat zigzagging road, Debre Damo (admission for men only) is thought to date back to the 6th century reign of King Gebre Mesqel.

Within its premises is found what’s likely to be the oldest standing church in the country (10th or 11th century AD), which is also a great example of an Axumite-style building.

The churchyard, built up on the north eastern side of the Imba to form a level podium, is surrounded by a stone wall that encloses the treasury and bell tower. The flat-topped “Amba” (plateau) measures about 1000 meters from northeast to southwest and 500 meters from northwest to southeast and is surrounded by sheer cliffs. Ascent to the mountaintop is only possible by using a 17 meter plaited leather rope that hangs down from the summit. According to local tradition, Abune Aregawi is believed to have been taken to the top of the Imba with the help of a serpent that was commanded to do so

by God. Today the rope symbolizes the miraculous serpent. Visitors need to be tightly tied up around their waists by the supplementary rope as a means of additional safety.

The Temple of Yeha

The magnificent Temple of the Moon at Yeha is located just 27km past the historic town of Adwa, the site of a decisive Ethiopian victory over invading Italian forces in 1896 that changed the course of history by affirming that Africans were indeed capable of defeating the superiorly armed European colonialists. Yeha’s huge and remarkable temple is believed to date back to the 5th century BC. However, according to the 19th century German scholar Heinrich Miller, the temple could date back to about seven or eight hundred years before the birth of Christ. The imposing ruins of Yeha’s temple (though

367

Tigrai

roofless) still stand. It was a large pre-Christian temple consisting of a single oblong chamber. The area of the remains of the temple measures 18.5m by 15m and its height stands at 12 meters. The temple is believed to be the oldest standing building in the country. The town of Yeha is considered by archaeologists and historians to be the capital of the pre- Axumite period. It holds many archaeological mysteries but the surrounding area has yet to be fully excavated.

Adwa

Though the town of Adwa is of little interest to tourists as compared to the rest of Tigrai region, it is a very significant place to Ethiopians. It was in the surrounding hills of Adwa that Emperor Menelik II defeated the Italian Army on 1 March 1896 ensuring Ethiopia as the only independent state in Africa. Church of Adwa Inda Selassie, built

by Emperor Yohannes IV is another site worthy of a visit in the town centre. It is convenient to spend overnight in Adwa to get a head start visiting the Yeha ruins the next morning.

Abbi Addi and Surrounding

The main road between Adwa and Abbi Addi via Mai Kinetal is 95Km long and takes more than two hours to cover in a private vehicle. (Add on another 20-30 minutes coming to or from Axum). Regular minibuses to Abbi Addi leave Adwa from a junction about 200m west of the main square and take around four hours.

Abbi Addi is also connected to Mekelle by a good 95 Km unsurfaced road, which passes through the hustling highland market center of Hagere Selam before descending along a spectacular mountain pass to the junction with the roads towards Adwa and South towards Sekota and Lalibela. If you’re driving yourself, you need to head right towards Adwa at this junction. At least two buses run between Mekelle and Abbi Addi daily.

Abbi Addi literally means ‘Big Town’ and it is a quite rapidly expanding settlement, set in a dusty valley below an impressive cliff. The settlement noted for its colorful Saturday market, offers many more attractions first by presenting Mai Lomin spring water pouring from the foot side of a cliff hanging over in the north. The neighboring garden full of birds adds color to the attraction.

Tembien- Historically, the region is remembered as the birth place of Emperor Yo-

hannes IV and Ras Alula Abba Nega, while other Tigraians know it for its delicious honey and hyperactive ‘Awri’ dancing. In addition, Tembien also houses the highest concentration of rock-hewn churches outside of Lalibela and Gheralta. Its accessibility to Mekelle, Adwa, Sekota and Lalibela gives chance to show its gorgeous landscapes and medieval marvels.

368

Axum and Surrounding

5. Axum and Surrounding The ancient Axumite civilization, whose capital was the town of Axum, the oldest town in Ethiopia and a world heritage site, was one of the greatest empires in existence during the height of its power, its lands reaching all the way from the Ethiopian highlands across the Red Sea to present day Yemen in Southern Arabia.

The town of Axum was the capital of the empire for centuries and although its long and significant history might not be immediately apparent just by strolling through the somewhat sleepy town, in its day it was one of the busiest, richest and most cultured urban centers in the world which rivaled Babylon or Alexandria in its grandeur.

The Axumite Kingdom was one of the great civilizations of the ancient world and has left us spectacular reminders of its former glory in the form of fields of stelae (obelisks), ruins of palaces, burial chambers and stone inscriptions at Axum. It was one of the ancient world’s most powerful kingdoms, controlling the trade routes through the Red Sea between the 4th and 6th centuries.

The importance of this trade is to be seen in the Axumite currency; gold, silver and bronze, which was inscribed either in Greek or Geez, and issued for several hundred years by over twenty different Axumite kings. Most of the coins were struck in Axum itself, but other coins were minted at Adulis, the Axumite’s port city, as well as in South Arabia, part of which was under Axumite control in the 16th century.

Through its port at Adulis, a huge variety of African commodities such as gold, ivory, animal skins and aromatic gums were shipped to Egypt, Italy, India, Persia and Sri Lanka while textiles, knives, swords, drinking cups, metal and luxury goods such as gold and silver plate, military cloaks for the nobility, olive oil and lacquer ware were imported.

The most important reminders of this ancient civilization are a set of stelae, each carved from a single piece of granite, the site of the palace of the Queen of Sheba and the Ethiopian equivalent of the ‘Rosetta Stone’ with inscriptions reporting the military achievements of the Axumites over their enemies in three ancient languages. Axum was the center of early Christianity in Ethiopia (the oldest church was founded in the 4th Century AD. when King Ezana was converted) and it is believed that the church of Tsion Mariam is the resting place of the Arc of the Covenant, having allegedly been brought back from Israel by Menelik, son of Queen Makeda (the Queen of Sheba) of the Axumites and King Solomon the Wise.

Axum was the first ancient Empire to adopt Christianity as the State religion (pre-dating the Roman Empire), in approximately 330AD. Legend speaks of two young slaves from Syria, Frumentius and Aedesius, who were sole survivors of a shipwreck and taken in by Axum’s royal family. After converting the young King Ezana, Frumentius was sent to Egypt to be appointed as the first bishop of Axum by the Prelate of Alexandria, thereby setting up a formal relationship between the Egyptian Coptic Church and the Ethiopian Church that survives to the present. Because of its early establishment, Ethio-

369

Tigrai

pia’s isolation from the rest of the Christian world for several centuries and the association with Judaism, religion as practiced in Axum has strong associations with both Judaism and Islam, including the celebration of the Sabbath (Saturday), regulation on the preparation and consumption of food, and other cultural practices.

The purity of religious practice has been preserved because of the city’s status as the religious and ceremonial centre of the country, conferring the spiritual legitimacy of the Solomonic line. Because the centre of government moved south with the decline of the Axumite Empire, political and economic pressures for change were avoided.

There are countless historical sites and attractions that visitors to Axum should experience and some of the more prominent are listed below.

Main Stelae field

This was the cemetery of the elite during the height of the Axumite Empire, marking the visual climax of the coronation route that started at the present Ezana Gardens. It is here that the famous carved stelae are found, presumed to be grave markers for the royal tombs immediately prior to King Ezana’s conversion to Christianity. There is evidence of a complex network of graves and mausoleums beneath the park, only some of which have been excavated. Despite extensive grave robbing, these have yielded countless grave goods that testify to an extraordinarily sophisticated and wealthy society, manufacturing a wide variety of artifacts and luxury goods.

The purpose of these prodigious monolithic stelae may have been to draw down power from the heavens in a ritual most probably accompanied by occasional sacrifices. The altars found at the bottom of most obelisks, all turned towards the rising sun, must have been used to offer blood to some deity since some have holes for drainage to lower levels while others are carved with the image of a chalice into which the lifeblood presumably flowed.

Of the three gigantic decorated stelae in the main stelae field, Stelae 3, the third tallest, 23.6 meters high, 160 tonnes in weight and 9 storeys tall, is the only one that has stood undisturbed since its raising in the early 4th century. It was the first in what was to be a straight line of three stelae parallel to the original terrace wall marking the southern edge of the Stelae Park. Its most notable feature is that it is slanting to the north and east, but has not shifted since it was documented by a German expedition of 1906.

The second tallest stelae, stelae 2, is 24.6 meters high and 170 tonnes in weight and it has 11 storeys. This stelae is decorated on its four sides. It was shipped to Rome in three pieces as ordered by the Italian fascist Benito Mussolini in 1937. While in Rome, the top part of the stelae was hit by lightning. After staying for almost 70 years in exile in the Italian capital, it was returned in 2005 through intense and persistent diplomatic, media and popular campaign.

The last of the monumental stelae, Stelae 1, would have been the tallest structure of a single piece of stone ever to have been raised in the ancient world, reaching a height of 33 meters. The archaeological and structural evidence points to its never having stood, however, having toppled over a terrace wall on to the Tomb of Nefas Mawcha as it was

372

Axum and Surrounding

being raised. It was considerably larger than its nearest rival of Stelae 2; 33 meters high and carved on all four sides to represent a 13 storey building with a characteristic capping that may have held a metal disc similar to the plaque found in the Tomb of the Brick Arches.

The engineering needed to quarry and transport a single stone, possibly weighing as much as 520 tonnes over a distance of 4km, testifies to the technical and organisational skills of the Axumites in the early 4th Century. Oral tradition suggests that elephants were used for both the transportation and the lifting of the Stelae. A combination of the dramatic collapse of such a massive stone and the conversion of the Axumite royal family to Christianity put the seal on future Stelae. Far more modest graves, represented by the Tomb of the False Door, would become typical after 330AD.

Tomb of the False Door

This was probably constructed in the late 4th Century, demonstrating the more modest approach to funerary building associated with Christianity. The absence of a monumental grave marker is more than compensated for with the exceptional stone masonry work. Large granite blocks line the walls, trimmed to form an interlock so finely worked that there is no evidence of mortar. The only exposed part of the tomb would originally have been a finely carved sculpture of a door set into a smooth terrace wall.

A steep stair below this ‘False Door’ leads to the tomb chamber, flanked by two rooms thought to have housed grave goods, suggesting continuity with pre-Christian burials elsewhere in the Stelae Park. The stairway was completely roofed over after the burial with massive capping stones, so large that grave robbers gave up attempts to break through them and entered through a tunnel behind one of the treasure rooms instead.

The sarcophagus in the burial chamber is carved from a single stone that resonates when struck, although this practice is discouraged as it could damage the endowment.

Mausoleum

This underground complex of ten burial chambers would have been accessed from a sunken courtyard immediately to the south of the site on which Stelae 1 was to be placed. Its doorway was carved out of a single slab of syenite, the same stone as used for the carved stelae. The excellent craftsmanship followed the same design as the false doors of the Stelae, imitating the timber ‘monkey-head’ method of building. Access to the individual chambers was via a passage lit from above with three roof lights lined with granite. The walls of the passage were of rubble stone, plastered with a gritty render giving the surfaces a similar texture to the solid syenite used for framing the openings and for the roofing slabs. The floor was originally paved with sandstone in the passage and all of the chambers.

The collapse of Stelae 1 caused some damage to the nearly completed mausoleum, suggesting that it was abandoned unfinished. This disaster, combined with the conversion of King Ezana, contributed to the end of this approach to burial, although some elements of continuity can be seen in the Tomb of the Brick Arches on the far eastern side of the Main Stelae Park.

373

Axum

Hotel

374

Axum

Hotel

375

Tigrai

Nefas Mawcha

To the south of Stelae 1 is the world’s largest megalithic tomb (dolmen), measuring 17 x 7m with an estimated weight of 360 tons. This forms the roof to the central part of an underground complex surrounded by spaces on all four sides roofed with smaller granite slabs. Its name means “the wind’s exit”, derived from the legend that the wind funnelling through it would blow out any light. The large stone slab is finely worked on its underside but left unfinished on the upper face, suggesting either that it was to be covered over with earth or that it was left incomplete when Stelae 1 collapsed on to it.

It was almost certainly planned to be a tomb, part of the Stelae 1 complex that included the Mausoleum, but set outside the Stelae Park area demarcated by the terrace wall.

This could indicate that the upper terrace was reserved for the close relatives of the king, whereas Nefas Mawcha was for more distant relatives. The grand scale of this structure and the others in the complex are testament to the power of the monarchy at this period in Axum’s history.

Tomb of the Brick Arches

By contrast with the regularity of the Mausoleum, the layout of the Tomb of the Brick Arches is quite irregular, a series of circular chambers each divided into two by a rubble wall. The entrance is down a steep flight of carved stone stairs lined with rubble walling to the first of the arches from which it is named. This is the earliest known example of a constructed horseshoe arch, possibly inspired by rock-cut examples in India. Despite the activity of tomb robbers, the remaining artifacts offer a rich and detailed insight into life at Axum at the height of the Empire. Luxury goods include imported glassware, an intricately carved ivory throne and pieces of a decorative box inlaid with coloured glass. More mundane articles include mirrors and a wealth of ceramics, indicating specialised tableware, differentiated cooking vessels, footpaths and containers for cosmetics and hair care products. The locally manufactured goods give an indication of the diversity and sophistication of local crafts that would have been traded throughout the Mediterranean and the Far East. This challenges the view that African trade goods in the regions south of Egypt were entirely primary products – unworked metals, ivory tusks and the like.

The Archeological museum

This museum displays artifacts collected through archeological excavations in and around Axum. It also portrays pre-historic and historic scenes related to Axumite Empire in paintings done by local painters. The museum is found in the same compound as the main stelae field, in the compound of Dejazmach G/Silassie. Items on display include a selection of ancient rock tablets, which are inscribed in a variety of languages including a form of Sabaean that preceded the Geez of Christian Axum. This early Sabaean writing consisted only of consonants, but it is similar enough to the modern Amharinga or Tigrigna script that the letters are intelligible to some Ethiopians today.

There are also an interesting variety of objects found in tombs, running from ordinary household objects such as drinking cups, lamps, and incense burners to quite sophisticated glassware including perfume bottles. There is a collection of Axumite crosses and coins, the latter dating from 4th to 6th centuries AD. A more recent artifact is a 700-year-old leather Bible written in Geez and decorated with illuminations.

376

Axum and Surrounding

Northern Stelae Field

Located on the slopes of Beta Giyorgis, opposite the Mai Shum reservoir, the northern Stelae Field appears to predate the Main Stelae Field, with the gradual movement southwards indicated by the changing style of the more elaborate Stelae. This may have been a continuation of the burial places found on Beta Giyorgis, the location of the earliest settlement at Axum. On this section of the stelae field a number of dressed and undressed Stelae are scattered in the greenery. The dressed stelae (Stelae 7, 6, 5 and 4) share the same compound with Enda Eyesus Church.

Enda Eyesus Church

Enda Eyesus (The House of Christ) church is situated in the northern stelae field. It is separated from the field by stone walls, which makes the churchyard. Still in active use, the church is known for its murals. It is decorated wall to wall by paintings depicting several subjects. Images of St. Mary and Child, the apostles and saints adorn the external walls of the church. One decorated stelae, the top of which is full-moon shaped, is the prominent structure in the churchyard of Enda Eyesus.

Fitawrari Belay’s Ethnographic Museum

This is a typical house of Tigraian aristocrats. Past the main gate is a wide open barn surrounded by stone walls, which make up the fence of the compound.

The house itself is a one-storey building, the central ceiling of which is dome-shaped.

The ceiling is made of large wooden beams, bamboo and elephant grass. Several nonfree-standing columns support the building. Windows of double-arched wooden frames provide the building an imperial grace. It also has several false windows, the purpose of which is mainly decorative, although they are commonly used as shelves and for placing the traditional kerosene-and-cord source of light – kuraz. A series of hooks of horn are also firmly embedded in the wall. Now inhabited by the descendants of a 20th century aristocrat – Fitawrari Belay - the building is a residence that behaves like a museum. It displays household paraphernalia, including kitchenware, pottery products, baskets, musical instruments, equestrian decorations, glassware, and woodand-leather chairs, among many other items.

Queen of Sheba’s Bath (The Mai’shum Reservoir)

Situated on the northern outskirts of Axum, on the track leading to the tombs of Kaleb and Gebre Mesqel, this huge reservoir is traditionally known as the bath of the legendary Queen of Sheba of the first millennium BC. It is also known as Mai Shum, which translates to ‘Chief of water’. Apart from wells dotted throughout the Axum, Mai Shum was the primary water supply, still used for domestic use by inhabitants of parts of the city. The legend describing it as the Queen of Sheba’s private bath has recently been given credibility on the discovery of an older earthen wall below the one now visible.

At the time of Timkat (Ethiopian Epiphany), celebrated on January 6th, church dignitaries and the devout come down to the water’s edge where priests bless the water and sprinkle it on the surrounding crowd.

Church of Tsion Mariam

The present church, built in the mid-17th Century under the Emperor Fasilidas, is located south of the original five-aisled church built at the time of the Axumite Empire. The outline of the 4th century building, considered to be the oldest church in

377

Axum and Surrounding

Africa south of the Sahara, can be traced in the 3.4m high podium on which the present church stands. The original church was burned down by Queen Gudit in the 10th Century, and rebuilt only to be destroyed by Ahmed Gragn (the Left Handed) in 1535. Fortunately, the Portuguese visitor FranciscoAlvarez described it just before its destruction from his observations of 1520. Traces of the Axumite walling can be seen in the large dressed corner stones on the southern and eastern sides of the podium. Between them, the rubble walling steps back each metre up the face, with a course of slate to shed water from the ledges formed by the stepping. The existing building is not accessible to women: oral tradition links this to the sack of Axum by the Jewish Queen Gudit, but religious authorities explain that its origin as a monastic house is the reason. It would appear that this prohibition did not apply to the earlier church, as the Prophet Mohammed’s wives, seeking sanctuary at Axum, brought back descriptions of the beauty of the church and its murals. The name of the church derives from its altar stone that is said to have come from Mount Zion.

Chapel of the Ark of the Covenant

To the north of the old church of Tsion Mariam is a separate chapel housing the most sacred endowment of the Ethiopian people, the Ark of the Covenant. The legend that recounts the story of the Ark, containing the tablets with the Ten Commandments received by Moses on Mount Sinai, is told in the Kibre Negest, a text that unifies the origins of the Axumite monarchy with the New Testament.

The Ark, placed in a special chapel in the compound of the church dedicated to St. Mary of Tsion in Axum, is the most revered and venerated object in Ethiopia. Replicas of the Ark are kept in all of the country’s tens of thousands of churches, where only the most senior members of the clergy have access to it and without which the sanctity of the church is forfeit. But no powerful ruler of an empire or a celebrated saint is allowed to have even a glimpse of the genuine Ark in Axum. Earthly power, humanly wisdom, material wealth or any quid pro quo does not guarantee access to the Ark. The guardian of the Ark - appointed by his predecessor for life – is the only soul who has access to the Ark. Adhering to a very strict discipline and performing meticulous rituals, the guardian-for-life monk treats the Ark with the utmost respect that it deserves.

Shire is the last sizable and attractive town of Tigrai before entering the Simien Mountains in Debark of the Amhara region. Selam bus also has a schedule for a weekly bus service running from Addis Abeba via Gondar to Shire.

Kafta Shiraro National Park

Established in 2007, elevation ranges from 550m above sea level on the edge of the Tekaze River to 1,800m above sea level on the highlands of Kafta. It has a semiarid climate.

The park is known to support an elephant population, as well as greater kudus, roan antelopes, and dem- Ethiopian Holidays Package Historic Route - Axum & Lalibela oiselle cranes. It is lo- TOUR NAME: TOUR CODE: EH-103 cated 1,015km north ITINERARY: Axum-Lalibela of Addis Abeba in DURATION: 05 nights and 06 days western Tigray Re- VALIDITY: December 31, 2015 Contact Info:- Email: Info@et-holidays.com, Tel: +251-116-184-360 gional State.

378

Eastern Ethiopia

The Afar---------------------------------------------------------------------- 380 Awash National Park 380, Alledeghi Wildlife Reserve 382, Yangudi - Rassa National Park 382, Mille 382, Semera 383, Erta-Ale 383, Danakil or Dallol Depression 384, Dire Dawa-------------------------------------------------------------------- 385 City Attractions 386, Millennium Park 386, Rail excursion 386, Dire Dawa Market, 386, Cave Paintings in Dire Dawa, Lega Oda Cave 386, Porc Epic Cave 387,Goda-Agawa 387, Goda-Oromo 389, The Walled City of Harar-------------------------------------------------- 389 The Jugol 390, The Arthur Rimbaud, Collection Center 390, Harari Handicrafts 390, The Harari Cultural House 391, Hyena Feeding 391, Kulubi 391,Babile & The Valley of Rock Marvels 392, Kundudo Mountains 392, Somali (Somalia)------------------------------------------------------------ 392 Historical sites 393, Culture 393, Natural Attractions 393, Jijiga 393, Geraille National Park 393, Afar Treks with Ethiopian Quadrants----------------------------------- 394

Ethiopian Quadrants PLC To the four corners of the country

Tel: (251) 011 5157990, 011 5544635/6 E mail: ethiopianquadrants@gmail.com ethiopianquadrants@ethionet.et.

Web: www.ethiopianquadrants.com

Eastern Ethiopia The eastern part of Ethiopia to the east of the capital starts with the town of Debre Zeit (Bishoftu) to a 100 km larger town of Adama (Nazareth), which can be visited as a day trip. These parts including the Sodere Resort are covered on the Day Trips from Addis Abeba section of this book.

A trip to eastern Ethiopia is a journey that tickles the heart, boggles the mind and challenges the soul – no less than that. In stark contrast to the green, densely populated highlands, the east is largely arid, wild, and low-lying. In it lies the Awash National Park, the Afar, the city of Dire Dawa and the Somali after eastern Ethiopia’s piéce de résistance: the old walled city of Harar, which seems straight out of a story from the Arabian Nights. This gem of a place is shrouded with a palpable historical aura that will appeal to culture vultures. And after nightfall, the hard-to-believe ritual feeding of the Harar hyenas will leave you gasping in awe.

Eastern Ethiopia

Afar

The Afar

The Afar Region has consistently turned up evidence of the earliest human habitation.

Ethiopia’s greatest archeological discovery-and one of world importance-was the finding, in 1974, of an almost complete hominid skeleton, estimated to be at least 3.5 million years old, at Hadar, in the boulder-strewn volcanic floor of Afar region in the Great Rift Valley. Initially named ‘Lucy’ by the team that found the skeleton, ‘she’ was later given a more fitting Ethiopian name, Dinkinesh, which means ‘thou art wonderful’.

This is only one of the many major scientific discoveries in the area: only twenty years later, in 1994, that scientists dug up the fossilized remains of a chimpanzee-sized ape from 4.4 million years ago at a site seventy-five Km (45miles) south of where ‘Lucy’ was found. The latest find consisted of the 5.8 million year old fossil named Ramadis Kadaba.

The fossilized skeleton of Lucy lies at the Ethiopian National Museum in Addis Abeba, along with many other prehistoric discoveries, including Stone Age tools up to 2.5 million years’ old and vibrant cave paintings. The area where Dinkinesh was found remains an active archaeological site. But the semi-desert area is inhospitable and visitors must check with the authorities beforehand. It was on the edge of the Danakil Desert, in November, 1974, at a place called Hadar, that fossilized remains of the oldest direct human ancestor were discovered. Palaeontologists were able to reconstruct almost the whole skeleton of single female. This 3.5 million year old human ancestor was dubbed ‘Lucy’. The Lower Awash Valley, where Hadar is located, is registered by UNESCO as a world Heritage site.

Afar Depression, Erta-Ale active volcanic movement, Awash natural reserve, Yangundi-Rassa national park, Hadar, and Aramis areas are the major tourist attractions of the region.

The Hot springs and Afar cultural visit are also worth experiencing. Grevy’s Zebra, wild fox, wild cat, cheetah and ostrich are among the major wild animals found in the region’s national parks.

Awash National Park The park is situated 227 km east of the capital in the dry acacia savanna of the Rift Valley in the Afar and Oromia regional states. It takes about four and half hours drive from Addis Abeba. The Park is bisected by the Dire Dawa road between Metehara and Awash Saba and takes its name from the 1200Km Awash River, which marks its southern boundary. It is one of Ethiopia’s oldest national parks, established in 1966. Elevation ranges from 750m to 2010m above sea level, with the average altitude hovering around 1000m. Short rains are expected from February to April and long rains from June to August. Temperatures can rise to 42 degrees C, but average temperatures are around 27 to 30 degrees C. It is recommended to enter through the main gate first and travel down toward the Awash River. The park is open from 6:00am to 7:00pm. Visiting the park between

382

Awash

Lodges

383

Eastern Ethiopia

Awash National Park

June and January is best. Awash Falls Lodge is the best place to stay here and camping is also permitted in the park.

Arabian bustard

Photo by: Dr. Ludwig Siege

Major species conserved here include beisa oryx, Soemmering’s gazelle, defassa waterbuck, Salt’s dikdik, warthog, hamadryas baboon, Aardvark, greater and lesser Kudu, and reedbuck. More than 400 species of birds are found in the park, ranging from the large ostrich to tiny fire finches. Of these, 6 are endemic, namely the Banded barbet, golden-backed Woodpecker, Whitewinged cliff chat, white-tailed starling, thick-billed raven, and Wattled ibis. The waterfalls and hot springs (35km from the park entrance) in the Awash River Gorge are also beautiful.

Lake Beseka and the dormant crater Fental’e are added attractions for visitors. You can visit Fental’e and Lake Beseka from Metehara town which is located very near around. Metehara town is known for its sugar plantation and you can also spot the pastoralist Kereyu people from Metehara, who have a similar hairstyle with the Afars.

Alledeghi Wildlife Reserve

Situated between the Awash Park and the Yangudi Rassa National Park, Alledeghi Wildlife Reserve is one of the better kept secrets of Ethiopia’s wildlife areas. It is around a 100 km from Awash National Park on the road to Djibouti and 200km before the Yangudi National Park of the Afar regional State near the small town of Awash Arba.

Aside from some great plains game it is home to Ethiopia’s largest Grevy’s Zebra, Oryx and Gazelle population.

Yangudi-Rassa National Park

It is located at 436 km east of Addis Abeba in Afar Regional State, between Gewane and Mile towns. The park, established in 1976, is situated in the Great Rift Valley covered with grassland, bush, and thorn thickets. It has an average altitude of 500m above sea level, and the climate of the park is hot and dry for the larger part of the year. Temperatures can rise to 43 degrees C in the shade. The park is a major flyway for migrant birds coming from the northern hemisphere from September to January. You can get basic accommodation in Gewane.

Mille

A small town after Gewane which serves as the main link between Afar and the Northern historical route. South of the town lies a junction of the Assab road and the road that runs to bati, Kombolcha and Dessie.

384

Semera

It is the capital of the Afar Regional State in which you would get your permit for a visit to Hadar. And the next town further east in line is Assaita, the former capital of the Afar. Assaita is an interesting place to meet the real Afars and there are interesting lakes around Assaita which form a great water bird sites, though most are not easily accessible. But some can be explored by setting up a camel expedition.

Erta-Ale Active Volcano

Erta Ale is a continuously active basaltic shield volcano in the Afar. It is in the depression, a desert area spanning the border with Eritrea, and the volcano itself is surrounded completely by an area below sea level making it a relatively low-elevation volcano.

Erta Ale means “Smoking Mountain” in the local Afar language and its southernmost pit is known locally as “the gateway to hell”.

Erta-Ale is formed almost entirely out of lava that was poured out of volcano’s crater.

This is the most active volcano in Ethiopia and the world too. Its height is 61.3 metres (2,011 ft) with one or sometimes two active lava lakes at the summit which occasionally overflow on the south side of the volcano. The single most impressive part of Erta-Ale volcano is its Lava. It has colored landscapes, incredible mineral deposits, sulphur lakes and bubbling sulphur springs. This is sight not to be missed by the adventurous Ethiopian Holidays Package travelers.

TOUR NAME: Fare the Fire – Ertale TOUR CODE: EH-110 ITINERARY: Addis Ababa-Makale-Dallol-Ertale-Awash DURATION: 08 nights and 09 days VALIDITY: December 31, 2015 Contact Info:- Email: Info@et-holidays.com, Tel: +251-116-184-360

Danakil or Dallol Depression

The Danakil (or Dallol) Depression is a geological depression that is caused by the Afar Triangle Junction which is part of the Great Rift Valley. The Dallol Depression, which straddles the Eritrean border to the north of Assaita and the east of Tigraian Highlands, is officially the hottest place on earth, with more than a 100m below sea level and a temperature reaching up to 45-50 oC. The Depression is part of the great African Rift Valley inhabited by nomadic Afars. The women are known for their crafts and building of the family temporary hut. One of the driest and most tectonically active areas on the planet, the Danakil is an area of singular geological fascination: a strange lunar landscape studded with more than 30 active or dormant volcanoes, malodorous sulphur-caked hot springs, solidified black lava flows and vast salt-encrusted basins.

Dire Dawa

The road to Dire Dawa follows the same route from Adama to the Awash National Park but diverts further to the east at Awash Saba and then to Asebe Teferi via Maeso. For wildlife enthusiasts you can visit Mount Nyala just 25 Km southeast of Asebe Teferi at Kuni Muktar village in the defunct sanctuary. Along the way to the east passing the small beautiful town of Hirna and before the T-Junction to Dire Dawa and Harar comes the famous Kulubi.

Dire Dawa “The Queen of the Desert” is what many prefer to call the city. It is located

445Km east of Addis Abeba. Dire Dawa was founded in 1902, when the railroad from Djibouti reached the area. Its growth has resulted largely from trade brought by the railroad. The city is home to most of the ethnic groups found in the country. Thus, it is a city of tolerance and peaceful coexistence.

Owing to its diversity nearly all people are able to speak two or more local languages.

Amharic is used as working language while Oromigna and Somali are among widely spoken local languages. Foreign languages as Arabic, French and English are also used in some parts of the city. Dire Dawa lies in the eastern part of the nation, on the Dechatu River, at the foot of a ring of cliffs that has been described as “somewhat like a cluster of tea leaves in the bottom of a slop basin.” Cave paintings and stone monuments are located near Dire Dawa to the east. The first hotel established in Dire Dawa is Continental Hotel, established in the same year with Taitu Hotel.

Ethiopian Airlines flies daily. Bus and minibus services are also available, including Selam Bus and Sky Bus coaches.

The old part of the town is made of twisting streets and Arab-style houses with everpresent Somali women in black velvet, their faces covered with purple veils. The old city (Magala) is on the south bank of the river, and the new city (Kezira) on the north. The

387

Eastern Ethiopia

Dire Dawa

New Quarter presents quite a contrast, with its tree-shaded boulevards, trim modern houses, factories, new hotels, and a fine hospital. Baqlawa, Mushabak and Hilwa are local sweets not to be missed while visiting the city.

City Attractions

The railway station (1902)

This century old facility used to be and still is the life line of the town. The foundation and development of the town is also closely related to it. Hence, the railway station is, apart from its being a century old, symbolizes the towns hundred years of existence. In front of the railway station there was a piazza, and the main street nearest to the railway was named Viale Benito Mussolini.

Millennium Park

The park is located on the road which stretches from St. Mary church to Dire Dawa airport. In the park, there are the replicas of the cave paintings on huge stones brought from babile dakat and there are also five cultural houses which resembles the Amhara, Tigre, Oromo, Somali, and Harari.

The park possesses 750 trees with 5 endemic tree species; from huge trunk trees to small shrubs are found in the park. The park, at the city center, can be a very good place to spend some quality time.

Rail excursion

Don’t miss travelling to Shinile and Djibouti by the first train that touched Ethiopian soil, since your possibilities to experience such travel in Ethiopia is only realized here in Dire Dawa. But prior arrangement should be done.

Dire Dawa Market Kefira Market

Kefira is a colorful traditional market where one can see a beautiful representation of almost all of the nations and nationalities of Ethiopia, including their traditional dresses. Found in Magala Neighborhood, the market has some interesting Moorishstyle architectural features, including striking horseshoe arches. The market attracts people from different parts of Ethiopia, including Afar herders, Somali pastoralists, and Oromo farmers. A large variety of spices are sold here. Sometimes, large camel caravans march in from the desert. Dire Dawa provides ample shopping opportunities for both local and international visitors at Taiwan and Ashowa markets.

Cave Paintings in Dire Dawa Lega Oda Cave

The cave, which is found around 38km Southwest of Dire Dawa, features rock paintings and evidence of a stone tool industry. It has been the subject of interest of many researchers. The cave is situated in the side of a limestone hill and subdivided into two floors. The upper floor is about 60m in length, three meters in height, and four meters in depth, whereas the lower one is substantially shorter, attaining only two meters in height. The rock paintings in the cave number about 600. Two other caves, namely GodaOkotae and GodaButtu, are found close by.

388

Dire Dawa

Hotel

Porc Epic Cave

The middle stone age site of Porc Epic Cave lies 3Km south of the city of Dire Dawa in Southeastern Ethiopia, with in a series of broken faulted lime stone blocks of upper Jurassic origin. Situated near the top of Garaderer, a prominent lime stone hill that rises about 140M above the massive Wadi Laga Dachatu, the cave provides an ideal setting from which to monitor migratory herds of prey and has produced a very rich assemblage of stone tools and faunal remain Hominids Operculum, ten thousands of lithic (Stone tool) and faunal (Bone artifact) remain including (lower jaw bone of homo sapiens dating from b/n 60,000 and 77,000 years) from an area of about 50M² (with total excavated volume of about 38m³), Painting in red, brown & black color and opercula, small agile mammals like hares or hyraxes are also found throughout the sequence of the cave.

Goda-Agawa

Goda-Agawa is a pre-historic cave found about 28 Km from Dire Dawa, and has a height of 2050 meters above sea level. The cave has paintings of domestic animals and the palms of human hands in red and white colors are dated to 5000-7000 years like that of the above two caves.

389

Dire Dawa

Hotel

390

Harar

Lega Oda Cave

Goda-Oromo

There are five cave formations in Africa and Goda-Oromo is one of it, 130 km away from Dire Dawa, located in Gursum woreda. Just where Richard Burton -the famed travel writer- mentioned a massive source, the cave system that gives life to at least three springs in all proved to be one of Africa’s marvels. Long water filled lower parts, incredible chimneys and rooms filled with the delight any speleologist lives for, special rock concretions of twenty, more common and rare kinds, of many special colours, is the most beautiful caves of Africa for its impressive rock formation and easy accessiblity. Drop by drop, from the top greens it seeps in the rock’s cold bowels. It touches the black ignites warmed by the sun. It slowly dissolves the mass of white limes into thousands of holes, reshaping it into funnels that channel it down, where pure dark reigns and unknown creatures slowly dance, move onto columns and intricate rock formations, or swim in the springs. Water resuscitates new rocks in hidden forms were powders, salts and time shape the caves’ incredible decorations, a light, unstoppable sculpting respire.

The Walled City of Harar Harar is located about 525km east of Addis Abeba, at an elevation of 1,885m. The city can be divided in to two parts: Jugol, the historic center, and the new town before reaching the Jugol. The wall surrounding this sacred Muslim city was built between the 13th and 16th centuries. It is a 3.5km long wall with a height of nearly four meters and five gates. Harar Jugol was registered by UNESCO as a world heritage site in 2006. The narrow winding streets of Harar houses over 82 mosques and are considered as the fourth holiest city of Islam, next to Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem.

Recently registered by UNESCO as one of the ten World Heritage Sites, people have lived around this area since 20,000 years ago, leaving behind a priceless legacy of cave paintings. It came to be a formal city much later, around the 10th or 11th century AD, once it was established as a center of Islamic learning in East Africa.

391

Eastern Ethiopia

The Jugol

On the east side of the Great Rift Valley, the medieval walled Islamic city of Harar is famous for its historical and cultural sites. The remarkable defensive wall, popularly known as the Jugol, was built in the 16th century. This wall warmly engulfs the city, which is confined within 48ha and 362 narrow lanes. The city inside this wall is the major reason for tourists to go to the city. The circumference of the wall is 3.35km, with five traditional gates. The dominant features are the traditional Harari houses, the childhood home of Emperor Haile Selassie, the exciting open market with its medley of peoples and cultures, the Rimbaud House named after the French poet who lived there in the 1880s, and the hyena-feeding ritual. Harar’s glory is in its ancient monuments, dominated by the 16th-century Grand Mosque with elegant twin towers and a slender minaret.

The Arthur Rimbaud Collection Center

The 19th-century explorer Richard Burton described the walled city as having a “sinister fascination.” The French poet Arthur Rimbaud followed suit to explore Harar where he built a house of wood and brightly colored glass in 1880s.

A place in which he lived is very beautiful so much so that the house today is renovated and attracts many tourists. The center includes a museum in which both Rimbaud’s literature and the Harari historical photographs during his time are displayed.

Harari Handicrafts The Harari people are known for the quality of their handicrafts, including weaving, basketry, jewelry making, stone carving, bookbinding and others.

The renovated Enay Abida Craft Center is

392

Ethiopian Holidays Package TOUR NAME: Historic Route and Exotic Harar TOUR CODE: EH-105 ITINERARY: Bahar Dar-Gondar-Lalibela-Axum-Harar DURATION: 09 nights and 10 days VALIDITY: December 31, 2015 Contact Info:- Email: Info@et-holidays.com, Tel: +251-116-184-360

Harar

one of the places where you would get Harari’s multi craft outputs. The Hararis’ beautiful basketry with their colorful designs and variety are unique work of art.

The Harari Cultural House (Gey Gar)

The Harari houses with their exceptional interior design constitute the most spectacular part of Harar’s cultural heritage. The houses are with three rooms; the main front part, the interior and the stair. Any gey gar; regardless of the outside temperature always remains cool. This is due to the materials with which the house is built. Any Harari house is decorated with the house hold materials, which makes it appear as a shop rather than a residence.

Hyena Feeding

After dark, the legendary Hyena Man feeds meat by hand and mouth to the wild hyenas that haunt the city’s fringes. This practice of feeding hyenas takes place every night in the outskirts of Sugutat bari and Assumiy bari. The Hararis feed porridge to hyena on Ashura day at numerous sites of shrines.

Kulubi Kulubi is a town in eastern Ethiopia located in the Eastern Hararghe Zone of the Oromia Region 56 km south of Dire Dawa. Kulubi Gabriel Church was built by Ras Mekonen, father of Haile Selassie after he stopped there to pray for assistance to his God in the battle with Italians, who were then defeated by the Ethiopians at Adwa. When the Ras returned to Harar, he ordered a magnificent larger church to be built at Kulubi in honor of the saint who answered his prayer. Since then, Kulubi has become a pilgrimage celebrated twice a year, on December 28 (or December 29 in the year before Gregorian leap year) and July 26. Christian Orthodox worshippers travel to Kulubi Gabriel Church, to make requests or to celebrate answered prayer.

393

Eastern Ethiopia

Babile and The Valley of Rock Marvels It is a small town located 85 km from Dire Dawa and 30 Km east of Harar on the Jijiga road. Every Monday and Thursday a huge camel market is held in the town. You can also take a camel ride to go to the camel market. A very interesting place not to be missed is the Valley of Rock Marvels which is very near from east of the town on the Harar Jijiga road.

Babile Elephant Sancturay at 100 km from Dire Dawa named after the small town Babile supports the conservation of the native elephant sub-species (Loxodonta africana oleansie) and is also home for the black-maned-lion.

Once you travel 7 km past Babile to the village of Dakata and continue your trip from there by foot for another 2-3 km you will arrive at a very spectacular landscape, the Valley of Rock Marvels called Dakata, inhabited by Oromo pastoralists with the possibility of watching different bird species and a fair bit of wildlife. The Dakata Rock with its outstanding sculptor or natural stelae created by intense volcanic activity is magnificent.

As a day trip from Harar you can visit both Babile Elephant Sanctuary and Dakata using a public transport since minibuses run frequently during the day from Harar to Babile or you can stop at the valley using a public transport from Harar to Jijiga.

For more details on the sanctuary refer the Wildlife Viewing Section of the Adventure Tourism part of this book.

Kundudo Mountains Kundudo is an elegant 3000meters, ‘Amba’ about 20Km northeast of Harar. It has magnificent scenery, including the Immis Falls, unique Feral Horses and some of the best limestone cave system ever discovered in Africa and several rock art sites. Kundudo is going to be Ethiopia’s first community based Park or conservation area, by the effort of an Italian ecologist Marco Vigano who is undertaking action research on the area.

The area is ideal for tourists to undertake: Trekking, Canyoning, Climbing, Biking, Paragliding, and Caving and to spend some interesting time either resting or camping on its amazing flat top. A parachute which is forbidden in the Simien Mountains National Park is encouraged here, because its flat top offers the ideal choice of points to take off from.

Somali (Somalia)

Somali is situated in easternmost corner. It has a year-round hot climate. The majority of the population is pastoral nomads who transport their homes as they move from place to place. A common misconception about nomadic houses is that they are temporary dwellings involving little planning or design. The Somali dwelling is repeatedly reassembled and re-used. Somalis have extensive knowledge of the natural resource in their environment. They use local materials not only to build their houses, but also

394

Somali

for cleaning, sterilizing, dyeing, healing and making aromatic oils. Named for the distinctive Somali people, who comprise 95% of its population, it is the second largest of Ethiopia’s regions, covering an area of 250,000 km2 along the Somali border. Almost 99% of the population is Muslim, and Wabe Shebelle River runs through the region.

Historical sites: the main one is Alibilal Cave in the Erer District, about 10 km (6 miles) from Erer town. This cave is covered with prehistoric paintings of cows, giraffes, gazelle, and other figures. Other historical sites include the mosque, Ahmed Guray’s castle, Haile Selassie’s palaces (now ruined) and colonial buildings scattered about the region.

Culture: The Somali Region is much stronger on cultural attractions. There aren’t many places left in the world where you can see camel herders living much as they did centuries ago. You can drink fresh camel milk in traditional domed huts made of mats. Try shay Somali, Somali tea that’s mixed with sugar and camel’s milk and tastes a lot like Indian chai. The culture here preserves itself by oral traditions. Sitting with a clan elder and listening to his stories can be a one-of-a-kind experience.

Natural Attractions: Ethiopia’s Somali Region offers plenty of natural attractions for adventure travelers. There are five regional parks with various types of wildlife. Dado Park, which has lion, giraffes, and elephants. The hot springs, like hot springs in all places, they’re reputed to cure patients and people come from all around to “take the waters”. The easiest to get to these attractions from Dire Dawa is by the Erer town which is 58 km far from Dire Dawa. The cave and hot springs together would make a good day trip from Dire Dawa. The Erer-Gota hot springs are located on the grounds of one of Haile Selassie’s palaces (now ruined).

Jijiga

It is the capital of Somali Regional State and 106 km east from Harar. The stunning stretch of gravel road is one of the most scenic in eastern Ethiopia, with superb volcanic rock formations, contoured terrain and a strangely seductive atmosphere. First you’ll pass the town of Babile. About 4km from Babille, the road passes through the Dakata Valley, now better known as the Valley of Marvels. Here, tall rocks have been sculpted into strange shapes by the elements.

Once you arrive the capital, there is little to see and less to do in Jijiga, but there’s a strong whiff of edgy adventure about the place (maybe that’s just the camels) and the atmosphere, at this seldom-visited capital of the Somali region, is noticeably different from the rest of the country. Signs are written in Somali, women are veiled and Arabstyle mosques dominate the skyline. The large market is definitely worth exploring, as are the streets of multihued store fronts where you can sometimes find intricately woven mats, silver jewelry and yellow amber necklaces for sale. Business, including selling contraband smuggled in from Somaliland, in unexpectedly brisk. The camel and livestock market is also very interesting.

Geraille National Park

It is located at 900km southeast of Addis Abeba in the southwestern part of Somali Regional State. Altitude ranges from 800m above sea level on the banks of the Dawa River to 1,380m above sea level on top of the escarpments. The whole area is found within a semiarid zone and it is known to harbor a few elephants, African hunting dogs, cheetahs, and giraffes. Greater kudu, lesser kudu, and Grant’s gazzelle are also seen.

Amongst birds, the endemic white-tailed swallow has been recorded.

395

Afar Treks with Ethiopian Quadrants

MIKE STREET’S AUSSA TREK OPTION ONE Demat Ali, the great dormant volcano that stands between Lake Abhebad and Aussa, is one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever visited.

Day 1. To save time your team could drive to Afambo, join their awaiting camels and

follow my route (and roughly Thesiger’s) to the hot springs on Lake Abhebad’s north shore. This could be their first camp.

Day 2. They could then follow the moon-like lake shore to Arissa, a delightful oasis of date palms, where they could camp on night two.

Day 3. Next morning they could climb Demat Ali and circumnavigate the caledera, dropping back down to Arissa for night three.

Day 4. If they get up early and walk hard they could get back to Asaita by nightfall.

They should not miss the mysterious Asmara Terara, a smaller extinct volcano en route (see map)that no one, when I was there, had climbed and which the locals believe swallows planes and helicopters!!!

This route would be the most interesting.

OPTION TWO Again, going for altitude they could climb the Goumarri massif rising over the beast shore lake Goumarri (Gemeri Hayk).

Day 1. By following my 2005 route they should visit Gesisin, a ruined fort on a hill and

the former residence of various sultans. It was, I believe, also the favored place of Lij Eyasu during his debauched sojourns in Danakil country. Continuing east from here your team should reach the foot of the massif by late afternoon for first camp.

Day 2. Up early to climb the escarpment. From the top are spectacular views across

Aussa and Demat Ali. This is one of the smuggling route for camel caravans from Djibouti. Here they can take a fairly leisurely hike along the ridge separating Aussa and Djibouti with jaunts up surrounding peaks.

Depending how far they get, and how well the guide knows the country and a route back down to the lake, they could camp in these beautiful highlands.

Day 3. Descend to the lake and depending on water levels continue south to Thesiger’s

Crocodile camp (I didn’t go there), around the southern end of the lake Afambo where they could camp.

Day 4. This day they could wander north through what remains of the great forest Thesigers describes, crisscrossing stream and rivers feeding lake Goumarri. They could easily reach Asaita and cold beers by late afternoon.

HAMED ELA, DANAKIL, SALT MINES AND ERTA ALE The first is the short route, from Mekele, there is a longer routing through Awash, up to Semera, Serdo and Lake Afdera, which would take about 5-7 days.

Day 1: Early morning from Addis Abeba to Mekele, pick up from the hotel about 05:00, depart 07:15, arrive Mekele 08:15. From the airport we leave directly for Hamed Ela. We drive through the town and ascend the plateau below which Mekele is situated, and travel north in the direction of Wukro, before turning east at the small town of Agula, to descend the escarpment to the lowlands.

The road is much improved with the advent of potash mining investors, and from the main north south road it takes less than 2 hours to get to Berahile, an attractive little town set among mountains. From there to Hamed Ela at the foot of the escarpment it takes 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

We should wait until after 15:00, for the heat of the day to subside, before heading off to visit the salt mines, Lake Asale and the strange, multi coloured mineral formation around Dalol. Salt is extracted directly from the ground in the great slabs, carved into blocks called amole, which was once a currency in Ethiopia, and then loaded on camels that carry the salt up to the high lands. Camel trains can be made up of hundreds, even thousand of camels. (The best introduction to this whole area is the BBC film, The Hottest Place on Earth, which can be found on YouTube.)

Camping at Hamed Ela

Day 2: We set off after breakfast in the direction of Lake Afdera, and then east to bring us to the village of Dodum, at the foot of Erta Ale. The 5-hour will take us through sandy desert, with outcrops, passing through small Afar settlements.

At Dodum we collect the camels, which will carry our supplies, food, water, camping and cooking equipment, and the local guides and militia who will accompany us to the top.

We set off up the volcano at about 17:00; the ascent should take from 3-5 hours. At the top, the Afar people have constructed simple stone shelters, there are no roofs, but the walls offer some protection against the wind, which can make it quite chilly in the early hours of the morning.

The best time to see the lava pits of Erta Ale is at night-you can sit back some distance and see the lava bubbling like soup, with the occasional eruption which throws gobbets of lava up into the air, before subsiding once again.

Day 3: We start our descent of the mountain about 6000, to avoid the heat, and can

take a breakfast at the bottom (going down is faster than going up, it should not take more than 2 hours) before returning to Hamed Ela. (NB If visitors are in a hurry, because of much improved road conditions, with an early start it is possible to get back to Mekele in one day.)

Day 4: Before leaving for Mekele, we could make an early morning visit (when temperatures will still be low) to Dalol, to cover anything we might have missed on Day 1.

Arriving in Mekele early afternoon, we check into a Hotel, or we could leave straight to the airport for the return flight to Addis Abeba, depending on availability. We could also drive straight to Hauzien and Gheralta Lodge, or Adigrat and Agoro Lodge, for visit to Tigrai’s rock hewn churches.

If our destination is Mekele, it is worth spending some time visiting, there is palace of Yohannes IV, now a musem, and an interesting market.

Day 5: Either continue with visit to the north, or fly back to Addis Abeba

Longer routing: Day 1: Drive to Semera, process permits etc. It’s a long day’s drive, about 10 hours. (we

could break the journey at Awash park, spending the night at Awash Falls Lodge).Erta Ale Hotel, Semera.

Day 2: Drive to Afdera, about 180 km on an asphalt road. We can visit the salt pans, and camp near a hot spring.

Day 3: Drive to village of Dodum, at the foot of Erta Ale. At Dodum we collect the camels, which will carry our supplies, food, water, camping and cooking equipment, and the local guides and militia who will accompany us to the top.

We set off up the volcano at about 17:00, the ascent should take from 3-5 hours. At the top, the Afar people have constructed simple stone shelters, there are no roofs, but the walls offer some protection against the wind, which can make it quite chilly in the early hours of the morning.

The best time to see the lava pits of Erta Ale is at night-you can sit back some distance and see the lava bubbling like soup, with the occasional eruption which throws gobbets of lava up into the air, before subsiding once again.

Day 4: We start our descent of the mountain about 06:00, to avoid the heat, and can take a breakfast at the bottom (going down is faster than going up, it should not take more than 2 hours) before returning to Hamed Ela.

Day 5: Before leaving for Mekele, we could make an early morning visit (when temperatures will still be low) to visit the salt mines, Lake Asale and the strange, multi colored mineral formations around Dalol.

Salt is extracted directly from the ground in great slabs, carved into blocks called amole, which was once a currently in Ethiopia, and then loaded on camels, which carry the salt up to the high lands. Camel trains can be made up of hundreds, even thousands of camels.

It may be that some visitors would want to stay on for further visit in the afternoon, in which case we would drive to Mekele on Day 6.

Arriving in Mekele late afternoon, we check into the Axum Hote, or could leave straight to the airport for the return flight to Addis Abeba, depending on availability. We could also drive straight to Hauzien and Gheralta Lodge, or Adigrat and Agoro Lodge, for visits to Tigrai’s rock hewen churches.

If our destination is Mekele, it is worth spending some time visiting, there is the place of Yohannes IV, now a museum, and an interesting market.

Day 6: Either continue with visits to the north, or fly back to Addis Abeba NB Whichever routing you take, you are obliged to take with you a number of Afar militia and guides, whom you are also obliged to provide with food and water.

This means taking an extra logistics vehicle, for you cook, assistant, camping and cooking equipment, and transport for the Afar militia and guides.

For more information, contact Ethiopian Quadrants PLC with the following addresses:

Ethiopian Quadrants PLC To the four corners of the country Tel: (251) 011 5157990, 011 5544635/6 E mail: ethiopianquadrants@gmail.com ethiopianquadrants@ethionet.et.

Web: www.ethiopianquadrants.com

Southern Ethiopia

Southern Ethiopia------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 402 UNESCO Registered World heritage sites in the Southern Region 402, Lower Omo Valley 402, Tiya 403, Konso Cultural Landscape 403 Hawassa------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 404 Natural Attractions 406, Historical Attractions 409, Cultural Attractions 410

1. Southern Main Route – Addis Abeba via Butajira to Jinka---------------------------- 419 Melka Konture 419, Adadi Mariam 419, Tiya 419, Butajira Town 420, Siltie 420, Hadiya 420, Lake Boyo 420, Kembata 421, Ajora Waterfalls 421, Wolaita 421, GamoGofa 422, NechSar National Park 422, Lake Abaya 424, Lake Chamo 424, The Arbaminch Crocodile Farm 422, Chencha 423, Birbir Mariam 425, The Dorze people 425, Karat Konso 426, Walled Villages of Konso 426, Gesergio 427

Southern Omo---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 429 Karat Konso to Jinka Road via Weito, Key Afer and Qako 429 Weito to Turmi via Arbore and Lake Chew Bahir The Hamers: Turmi and Dimeka 433, Jinka to Maze National Park through Basketo and Sawla 438, Maze National Park 438

2. South Eastern Route: Addis Abeba via Mojo , the Rift Valley Lakes and Hawassa to the Kenyan Border--------------------------------------------------------------------------- 439 Addis Abeba to the Southern Rift Valley Lakes 439, Southern Rift Valley Lakes 439, Bale Mountains National Park 442 Sof - Omar 443, Dire Sheik Hussien 443 Yabello to Moyale (Ethio – Kenya Border) 449, Yabello National Park 449, 3. South Western Route: Addis Abeba viaWolkite, Jimma to the Kaffa Coffee Biosphere, Bench Maji, Southwest Omo and Sheka Forest----------------------------------- 449 Addis Abeba to Guraghe 450, Mihur Eyesus Monastery 450, Gibe National Park 450, Yem 450, Jimma 450, Konta 450, Dawro 451, Chebera-Churchura National Park 451, Kaffa – Bonga 451, Bonga 452, The Kaffa Coffee Biosphere Reserve 452, Bench Maji 454, Mizan- Aman 454, Ussika Hot Springs 454, Bebeka 454, Tepi 454, Southwest Omo 455 Omo National Park 455, Sheka Zone - Masha 456, The Sheka Forest Biosphere Reserve 456

Southern Ethiopia

Southern Ethiopia (The SNNPRS) The Southern Nations Nationalities and People’s Regional State is one of 9 federal regional states in Ethiopia and is home to more than 16,000,000 inhabitants of all races, languages and religions making up 20% of the entire Ethiopian population. More than 56 Nations, Nationalities and People representing about 70% of Ethiopia’s ethnic groups inhabit the SNNPRS with most having their own beliefs, customs, language and socio-economic organization.

The 109,000 Square Km SNNPRS zone is only 10% of the total landmass of the country but is unparalleled in its forest cover, natural beauty or ethnic diversity compared to the rest of the country. Proximity to the equator means high mean annual rainfall for the region ranging between 400-2200 mm while temperatures can range from 10 degrees Ce\ in the high altitude areas (highest point mount Guge in the Gamogofa highlands 4207 meters above sea level) to 28 degrees Celsius in the lowlands (lowest point Lake Turkana 360 meters above sea level).

With the Omo valley dissecting the region in half and the Great Rift Valley running along its eastern edge, not to mention the many mountains, forests and endless plains throughout the region, the SNNPRS is a land of wide-ranging topographical features which are largely unblemished by human interference except for basic infrastructure in towns and cities and roads connecting urban centers and tourist destinations.

SNNPRS is further divided into 14 administrative zones and 4 special Woredas (districts) including Sidama, Gedeo, Kembata-Tembaro, Debub(south) Omo, GamoGofa, Wolayita, Dawro, Hadiya, Kaffa, Sheka, Benchmaji, Guraghe, Siltie and Segen area people’s zones as well as Halaba, Konta, Basketo and Yem special Woredas.

The capital of the SNNPRS is the resort city of Hawassa which is located on the eastern shore of Lake Hawassa in the Great Rift Valley at a distance of 270 Km from Addis Abeba having an elevation of 1,708 meters above sea level. The town of Shashemene (known for its Rastafari settlement) is a transport hub less than an hour’s drive away from Hawassa serving as a gateway to all of southern Ethiopia. It lies at the junction of the roads north to Addis Abeba, South to Hawassa, Dilla and Moyale (the Kenyan Boarder) east to Bale, and west to Arba Minch and South Omo.

UNESCO Registered World heritage sites in the Southern Region 1- Lower Omo Valley – listed as a world heritage site in 1980, the lower Omo is believed to be one of the earliest cradles of mankind’s evolution. Located in southwestern Ethiopia and extending over an area of 165 square Km, the Lower Omo Valley is a spectacular place which has yielded several fossils considered to be crucial to the study of human evolution. Sites of massive sedimentary deposits going back to the PlioPleistocene period such as the Fejej paleontological research locations have harbored and divulged well preserved hominid and animal fossils that have had a profound ef404

Southern Ethiopia

fect on our understanding of the origins of the Homo Sapiens of Africa. Stone tools discovered at encampments in the Lower Omo Valley are the oldest known artifacts of prehistoric beings to demonstrate that they were capable of technical activities.

2- Tiya – the Tiya stelae fields are among the most important of the close to 160 ar-

chaeological sites discovered in the Guraghe zone. Their shapes and formations as well as the engravings of swords and other images on their surface can be baffling but most agree that the total of 36 stelae found at the site, with 32 of those carved with symbols, have a funerary significance. The monoliths, believed to be remnants of an ancient Ethiopian culture whose age is still in doubt, vary in height from 1 to 5 Meters and their forms fall into distinct categories such as anthropomorphic, hemispherical or conical.

Tiya is found 90 Km south of Addis Abeba along the Butajira road and has been a world heritage site since 1980.

3- Konso Cultural Landscape – the Konso people are some of the most mes-

merizing in southern Ethiopia for several reasons. They live in stone walled towns located on tops of hills which are highly defensible in the event of an attack. Their walls can reach heights of 5 meters and often encircle a town up to six times. The interiors of the towns all have traditional cultural centers (usually tall huts with double tiered roofs) called Moras where children play and adults congregate to make important decisions. Outside of the walls are stone terraces which minimize the effects of erosion and regulate water levels for the agricultural fields of the Konso. The use of grave markers carved from wood into human likeness complete with teeth carved out of animal bones is another unique feature of Konso culture. The Konso Cultural Landscape, inscribed in UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2011, is a 55 square Km area of stone walled terraces and fortified settlements situated in the Konso highlands that every south bound tourist should make a point of visiting.

Ethiopian Holidays Package TOUR NAME: Southern Peoples & Culture TOUR CODE: EH-106 ITINERARY: Addis Ababa-Arbaminch-Jinka-Mursi-Turmi-Langano DURATION: 09 nights and 10 days VALIDITY: December 31, 2015 Contact Info:- Email: Info@et-holidays.com, Tel: +251-116-184-360

405

HAWASSA Named after its lake-Lake Hawassa, it is a city perfectly poised at Lake Hawassa’s edge being the capital of Southern Nations, Nationalities and Peoples’ region and Sidama zone. Home to more than 56 ethnic communities, this city deserves the name given to it by many-“the city of diversity”. Hawassa was founded in 1960 during the period of Emperor Haileselassie. Hawassa meaning wide in Sidama (Sidamigna-the language), is the largest city in Ethiopian Rift Valley, supporting a population of more than 350,000.

Just lying 25 km south of Shashemene, Hawassa is a very pleasant modern city worthy of spending some time in and around the city.

As the region’s capital it also serves as a tourist hub for the southern route. Hawassa and its surrounding has a great potential for investment in the tourism sector, especially Hotel Investment as the city is increasingly becoming a conference center and famous among foreigners.

HAWASSA the capital of the Southern region and the Sidama Zone

Natural Attractions In and Around Hawassa

Lake Hawassa Lake Hawassa is the biggest natural attraction of the city which is one of the natural gifts considered as the main reason for the establishment of Hawassa and its naming.

The lake stretches 16 Km to the NE-SW direction (the shortest axis) with a maximum depth of 23 meters at its NE part and decrease in depth to the shores. The mean volume of lake Hawassa is about 1363 Cubic Cm.

It is an ideal lake surrounded by rolling hills everywhere believed to be formed during one of the ancient volcanic eruptions. It is one of the crater lakes of the country with a diversified natural species. The lake and the surrounding area offer a pleasant view of bird species and other aquatic animals, like hippopotamus. The waters of Lake Hawassa, teeming with tilapia, catfish & barbus, attract good birdlife. Kingfishers, herons, storks, (hammer kop) crakes, darters and plovers are among the species commonly seen on the water’s edge.

“Teha Goda” Island

Teha Goda Island is one of the natural gifts of Hawassa located at the center of the northern direction of the lake.

It will take you about 45 minutes to get there by a boat which is worthy considering the rich different aquatic bird species that makes the island an ornithological paradise.

408

Amora Gedel / Gudumale Park (Fish Market)

Get closer to the shores to see the wooden rowing boats loaded with tilapia and other fish species. It’s only about one Km away from Oasis International hotel. The long row of boats full of fresh fishes, the nets, fisher boys, fish soup cooking women, marabous, pelicans and other birds who feed on the leftover of fishes and other features will surely amaze you. Although you have to pay some amount of entrance fee, you can visit the fish market and have an access to walk in the adjacent Gudumale Park which is one of the earliest parks of Hawassa town occupying an area about 261,910.5 square meters.

The Amora Gedel is found near the main fishing centre along the lake. It is named after the flock of pelicans, marabou’s stork, hammer kop, kingfisher and other birds running and flying over the shore of the lake in search of fish left over.

Mount Tabor

Mount Tabor is a flat hilltop situated at the southern part of the city. One can climb to the top of the summit to see the beautiful view of the lake and the city. You can take a walk in the early morning or in the afternoon to see spectacular views of the city. It weeps dramatically down to the lakeshore, mirroring the ridge of mountains on the opposite side of the water. There is a path around the top where one can easily reach Hawassa University Medical College and Hospital found on the other side of the lake. It is very suitable for hiking. The mountain was formerly called with two names. The rear part of the hill at the side of the referral hospital is known as “Tilte” which means a plate on which cultural food is served in Sidama language. The front part of the hill at the side of the town is known as “Dume” meaning “Reddish” in Sidama language because the soil of the hill is fairly red in color.

Mount Alamura

Mount Alamura is one of the largest mountains situated at the south western end of the city. It is not bounded by a lake, but you can see Hawassa city, Sidama villages and the landscape of the surrounding. From the top of the mountain, you can also enjoy partial view of the lake. Paying a visit to this mountain and ascending to its top is worth a day of any ones time. It is the habitat of a lot of wild animals; especially hyena.

409

Burqitu Hot spring (spa Attraction)

Burqitu is a widely acknowledged SPA tourism in the city. The place is well known all over the Sidama zone and Oromiya region, especially in Hawassa and the surrounding.

It’s natural hot spring water is located in south eastern part of the city. The people of Hawassa and the surrounding localities travel around 10 Km to get there.

During the last 50 years Burqitu hot spring has been more popular because of its great curative nature. The Burqitu hot spring is highly mineralized and mostly used for drinking, steam bathing and swim bathing. This hot water is estimated to be visited by more than 1000 people/day due to its curative nature. Moreover, the area around the hot spring is used for various cultural and spiritual ceremonies by the people of Sidama.

The ceremonies include wonsho, traditional arbitration practices and the like.

Natural Reserve (Sanctuary) –Millennium Park

It is preserved as the city’s Main Park in the early 1960’s on an area of 75,067 square meters. The park is located at the northern shore of Lake Hawassa. The area is locally known as Tikur Wuha. The reserve is home to natural tree plants and lots of wild animals. Now the area is under construction, establishment of some tukuls and some local buildings can be seen. Besides being a habitat to different wild animals, birds and different types of monkeys, it is the main grazing site of hippos.

410

Historical Attractions The Loke Palace

The Loke Palace is situated 6 Km south-west from Hawassa city center. It was established and inaugurated in 1958 with the presence of emperor Hailesilassie. The palace was purposefully built as a temporary stay for the king. The palace has one big and six medium sized beautiful houses. The largest room of this palace was used for dining. During the ‘Derg’ regime, seven houses of the palace were turned into offices of farmers’ producers cooperatives. The dining hall with additional rooms is being used as an elementary mission school at present. The palace is currently administered by a Church.

The 1st Governmental Office (Hawella Wereda Governing office)

This building was the first governmental office in the history of Hawassa city located at the back of Tadesse Enjory Hotel. It was built in 1958. Now it is being used as a police station.

Kuyowatta Cannon (Artillery)

It is found at kuyowatta hill around 6 Km away from the city center in the south-western direction. It was made in 1917 and weighs 35 tons. The cannon was used by Italian troops from 1936 to 1943. The troops left the artillery at the hill of kuyowatta when they were driven away from the country by the Ethiopian rebel fighters.

Residential Palace of Ras Mengesha Seyoum

It was built in 1969 when Mengesha Seyoum was transferred from Tigrai province to ‘Awassa’ as an administrator of ‘Sidamo’ province government general.

Currently with the exception of the walls, the rest part of the building has long been gone due to the flood caused by the lake. You may notice the walls of the palace have maintained their strength up to now after being under water for 40 years.

The residential palace which is located around the Lewi Resort area is considered to be the second historical heritage of the city (as being a monarchial resident) next to the Loke Palace. The surrounding of the palace has also been serving as a cultural spot for lots of years. The historical New Year celebration of the Sidama nation “Fiche” takes place here every year.

Haranfama Stelae

Haranfama Stelae is the standing stone used in the ancient world primarily as a grave marker but also for dedication, commemoration, and demarcation. Although the origin of the stelae is unknown, a stone slab, either decorated or undecorated, was commonly used as a tombstone. It is believed in Sidama culture that the dead were represented on the grave stelae as they were in life. The largest sized stelae (2 meter in diameter and 5 meter in height) was produced in Haranfama. It is tall and narrow at its top and wide at its base and it has an elliptical shape. A few stelae are also found in the area surrounding Haranfama kebele.

411

The Corner Stone (The Foundation Stone)

The corner stone or foundation stone concept is derived from the first stone set in the construction of a masonry foundation, important since all other stones will be set in reference to this stone, thus determine the position of the entire structure. During 1968 king Haile Selassie has placed a foundation stone on Mesqel square to carry out the shifting of the capital city of ‘Sidamo’ province from Yirgalem to Hawassa, with the kings name and official position and the date usually being recorded on the stone.

The shape of the stone is rectangular and is made from a single big stone.

Cultural Attractions Sidama Cultural Hall

Sidama cultural Hall was inaugurated in 1984 during the ‘Derg’ regime to serve as a cinema and conference hall for the residents of the city. Currently, the hall is administered by the Sidama Zone Culture, Tourism, and Comunication Affairs department. In the compound of the hall, statues of Sidama patriots who fought for the right, freedom and democracy of the Sidama people can be seen.

The picture of Queen Fura is seen inside the hall. Fura was a highly respected queen among the people of Sidama. It is believed that Queen Fura played a major role for the Sidama women. The Sidama Cultural Hall has been well equipped with modern seats, offices, shops and other services. The hall constitutes 1300 seats.

The Statue of Sidama Nation (“Sidamu Summuda”)

“Sidamu Summuda” is a statue of the Sidama nation which is located in front of St. Gabriel Church in the midst of a square. One can easily notice the statue while traveling from piazza to the church or can be seen at a distant position. The statue is built by Sidama Zone Administration so as to reveal historical and cultural heritages through it.

“Sidamu Summuda” is the name given to the statue in Sidamigna language meaning ‘Identity of Sidama Nation’. Some of the major cultural and historical heritages of the nation are signified through the mosaic portraits and the overall design of the statue. These can be seen while observing the statue from different angles. The statue illustrates the originating and true identity of the Sidama

412

nation at once. You may also see the beautiful water fountain falling from and around the statue.

Traditional Festival-‘Fiche’

The Sidama nation has its own New Year called ‘Fiche’. It is celebrated colorfully for two weeks every year. The Sidamas have their own calendar in which a week has five days and a month with twenty eight days.

Fiche does not fall on the same day every year but it falls on ‘Qawado’, the first day of the week. The day is determined by elders who practice astrology and announce it to the community.

Fiche is commonly celebrated at Gudumale on the shore of the lake Hawassa where thousands of Sidama and people from other ethnic

groups gather and celebrate together.

At the evening of Fiche, each family head makes “huluqa” (arch) from fresh wood in front of the house and makes every members of the family, even the cattle, pass through it. This is done to symbolize the holiday. During the night, members of the village gather around in one of the village’s elders place to dine and celebrate together.

The next day after Fiche is called ‘Chambalala’. On this day the family head wears his traditional custom cloth and feeds his cattle in “Callo” (Protected pasture area) by sparking ‘bole’ salty soil and pass the day feeding and looking after them. This ceremony is also held in the city of Hawassa near Lewi Resort in Gudumale.

Hawassa St. Gabriel Church

Poised at the city center the church is the most packed next to the Kulubi Gabriel Church in the small town of Kulubi during the yearly pilgrimages of St. Gabriel on December and July.

413

Hawassa

Hotel

414

Hawassa Hawassa

Resorts

415

Hawassa

Hotel

416

Hawassa

Hotel

417

Hawassa

Hotel

418

Hawassa

Hotel

419

Gambella

To

Bench Maji OMO NP

Mizan Aman .

Masha .

.

Gore

Sheka

. Bure

lla

be

Tepi .

m Ga

Tourist Map of the Southern Region by Route

Gravel Roads

Asphalt Road of the South Western Route (Addis Abeba via Wolkite, Jimma to the Kaffa, Bench Maji and Sheka Forest)

Asphalt Road of the South Eastern Route: (Addis Abeba via Mojo , the Rift Valley Lakes and Hawassa to the Kenyan Border)

Asphalt Road of the Southern Main Route (Addis Abeba via Butajira to Jinka)

Rock - hewn church Archeolgical Site . Towns River Lake National Park (NP) BMNP (Bale Mountains National Park)

Key

.

.

Metu

O

. Agaro .

Jimma

Fofa YEM

Gilgel Ghibe Dam

.

Hosaina

Gibe ShelekoNP

welkite.

bia

Koka

. Mojo

. Bishoftu

. Butajira . Meki Ziway. Lake Ziway la Sha . Bulbula a t

Tiya

Adadi .

Addis Abeba .

Sebeta .

Wolisso Melka . Kunture .

.

. Asela

.Nazareth(Adama) Sodore . Dera Delfekar Park

Murelle

K E N YA

.

Turmi

.

Dimeka

Lake Turkana

.

.

Mursi

South OMO

Mago NP

Jinka .

Lake Chew Bahir

Derashae Weito .

. Key Afer

Arbore

.

Masho .

.

.

. Dilla . Wenago

Mega

Yabelo

.

.

.

Moyale

Tututi Tutu fella Stelae .

Yirgacheffe Nech’sar .

NP Fiseha Genet Lake Chamo Amaro . Hagere Mariam Burji .

Kele

.

Lake Abaya

Karat Konso

Arbaminch.

Lower OMO Valley

Gamo Gofa Basketo

K E N YA

BMNP

Bekoji A NP Lake Langano Lake Ayiata . Arsi Negele Lake Shala . Tercha .

Ajora Halaba .Kulitu Chida . Shashemene AdabaDinsho . Robe . Goro Water Fall .

Kaffa Bonga Senkele .WS . .

Ameya .

Lake . Hawassa Konta Dawro Dodola Sodo .

Hawassa Goba Manchiti .

R i v e r Rock Art Yirgalem

Omorate

.

. Bedele

.

Nekemte

Sor Water Fall

O

M

Gimbi

C Do henc rze ha

. Sof omar

. Awash

Addis Abeba Via Butajira to Jinka

Southern Ethiopia in contrast with the other parts of Ethiopia is of primary interest for its natural and cultural attractions. It is in short a region of exceptional natural beauty and variety. Its Rift Valley Lakes, wildlife, the lush forests, biosphere reserves and culture of its diverse ethnic groups are few among the many spectacular attractions. As in the northern route it is difficult to describe the Southern Ethiopia in a prescribed route. Rather we have tried to group it in three sections as your travel highlights though it would be limiting to strictly use this circuit.

1. Southern Main Route – Addis Abeba via Butajira to Jinka This road starts from Alemgena 20Km from the capital and south to Butajira via the archeological site of Melka Konture, the Church of Adadi Mariam and the UNESCO registered stelae site of Tiya. The distance from Alemgena to Butajira is around 110 Km and public transport connects Addis Abeba to Butajira.

Melka Konture – situated 50km south of Addis Abeba, the Melka Konturé site was

intermittently habituated from the Early Stone Age up to the New Stone Age for around 1.8 million years. It is an archeological site lying at the bank of Awash River, of which archeological findings are exhibited in the National Archeological Museum in Addis Abeba. The oldest known Homo sapiens cranial fragments estimated to be about 500,000 years old and Homo erectus fossils which are at least 1.5 million years old are some of the relics which the site has yielded.

Adadi Mariam - a rock hewn church dating back to the 15th or even as early as the 13th century by some accounts, the Adadi Mariam Church is not as old as some of the rock hewn churches of the northern highlands but is nonetheless an impressive and revered place of worship which attests to the early adoption of Christianity in the surrounding Guraghe area.

Tiya - at 80 Km south of Addis Abeba and only 30 Km from Adadi Mariam, the Tiya

Stelae fields are one of the most remarkable sites which marks the northern limit of at least 160 stelae fields stretching to the South from Dilla to Negele Borena. These mysterious field of obelisks which has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1980 dates back to the 12th to 15th century.

421

Southern Ethiopia

Butajira Town

This pleasant and rapidly growing town in the region is located within 135Kms distance from Addis Abeba on the highway route of Hossaina and Wolaita Sodo road. Attractions of the town after Melka Konture, the rock hewn church of Adadi Mariam and the UNESCO registered Tiya stelae include the grand Butajira Mosque and famous Meder kebdabo Monastery. This pleasant town can easily be accessed within 2 hours drive by 4X4 or by regular public transport from Addis Abeba. Mesqel religious festival is a greatly celebrated festival in Butajira as in other parts of the Guraghe.

Siltie

Located 40 Km from Butajira or 173 Km south of Addis Abeba, Siltie is one of the Zonal Administrations of the Southern region and Wurabe is its capital.

Areshetan Crator Lake: - There are numerous small crator lakes which are the result of the past volcanic actions. Among these, the most fascinating and easily accessible creator lake is the Areshetan Lake which literally means “Lake of Satan”. This enchanting natural attraction stands alongside the Hossaina road at an elevation of 2,281m lying 10Km and 36Km from Butajira and Wurabe respectively. This pretty emerald-green lake has a spherical shape and the upper surface of it is wider than the lower or bottom. Its basin is deep and encircled.

This lake is similar to the crator lakes found in Debre Zeit town.

Other attractions include Asano Stelae Site, Mugo Mountain, Alkaso Mosque and Tinishu Abaya, a quiet and beautiful lake about 6Km from Areshetan Crator Lake and ideal for bird watching, boating and fishing activities. As the community is largely muslim the Alkaso Maulid holiday is an annual festival to honor the Sheik Alkaso before the Ramaddan.

Hadiya

Hossaina the capital of Hadiya located just 230Km south of Addis Abeba via Butajira, is an important center of enset cultivation and culturally affiliated to the Guraghe . It is situated at the junction of a 100Km road running north to Butajira, a 115Km road northwest to Wolkite, the capital of the Guraghe Zone and a 96Km road south to Wolaita Sodo. It can also serve as a base for Boyo Lake, an important bird watching area and one of the six controlled hunting areas of the region.

- Lake Boyo:- Located just 20Km east of Hossaina, it is a wetland covering an area of 34 Km2. To reach this pleasant lake one has to travel on asphalt road for 30Km and another 24Km gravel road by turning right from the main road at the junction of Bonosha Mazoria to Shashego wereda. The lake is inhabited with unique & diverse species of birds. The most obviously seen are flocks of Yellow billed duck, Egyptian goose, egrets and herons while lots of migrant waders and ducks converge on the area during European winter.

422

Wolaita-Sodo

Kembata - Durame the capital or administrative center of Kembata is located 280Km

from Addis Abeba and situated at the foot of the beautiful Ambercho Mountain. Ambercho is chain of mountains and its highest peak is about 3058m above sea level. It takes about 3 hours from Durame to reach the peak of the mountain on foot and it can be a place of interest for hiking and horse riding.

Ajora Waterfalls

The twin Ajora falls between Kembata and Sodo road to the west of the main road are two separate but parallel waterfalls of the Soke and Ajacho rivers, set about 100m apart.

These very attractive falls are about 50Km and 52Km south of Hossaina and Durame respectively. There is also a natural bridge called Buchi – Zeriama Bridge at about 37Km west of Durame on your way to the Ajora Falls.

Wolaita

Wolaita Sodo is the capital of Wolaita Zone and situated 325Km from Addis Abeba at the foot of the Damot Mountain. Sodo lies at the crossroads where the main road between Shashemene and Arbaminch the capital of GamoGofa to Jinka intersects with the new road north from Addis Abeba via Butajira to Arbaminch, Sodo – Saula – Jinka road through Maze National Park and the Sodo - Jimma road of western Ethiopia.

Wolaita is rich with lots of attractions. Its waterfalls, hot springs, caves, crafts work such as weaving, pottery, and bamboo work, cultural music and dance and the Mesqel

holiday ceremony are among the many others to be mentioned. If you are in town on the last week of September you will enjoy the colorful Mesqel celebration of the Wolaitas who would come from every corner of the country with their unique dancing and music.

423

Southern Ethiopia

GamoGofa

Arba Minch is the capital of the GamoGofa zone which has diverse natural and cultural attractions. Arba Minch (literally meaning ‘forty springs’ ) stands at the base of a mountainous stretch of the Rift valley escarpment overlooking lakes Chamo and Abaya consisting of two small towns; Sikela and Shecha separated by 4Km tar road.

The town of Arba Minch serves as a gateway to the Konso and the South Omo Region, and it lies at the entrance to the Nechsar National Park, which protects parts of the two lakes (Chamo and Abaya), the mountainous Egzer Dildiy (‘Bridge of God’) that divides them, a forest close to town, and the White –grass Nechsar plains on the opposite shore.

The hot water springs for which the town is named support plenty of monkeys, birds and other forest wild life. The Best area for game viewing, accessible by 4x4 only, is the open Nechsar plain, in which large number of plains Zebra, along with Grant’s gazelle, Swayne’s hartebeest, Nechsar Nightjar and grater kudu can be seen.

NechSar National Park – this 514 square Km protected area whose name translates into “white grass” in Amharic is located 500 Km from Addis Abeba on the main route to Lower Omo. The shorelines of both Lake Chamo and Lake Abaya can be found within this National Park. NechSar National Park is known to shelter more than 100 large and small mammals, 350 species of birds, 25 species of fishes and over 1000 species of vascular plants.

As well as the NechSar Nightjar, endemic to the area, the park is frequented by other globally endangered avian species including the Lesser-Kestrel, Lesser

424

Arbaminch

Lodges

425

Southern Ethiopia

Flamingo and Phalied Harrier. Land animals commonly roaming the park include the Hyena, Lion, Cheetah, Honey Badger, Wild dog, Guenther’s Dik-Dik, Grant’s gazelle and Burchel’s zebra. Monkeys such as the Vervet Monkey, Olive Baboon and Colobus Monkey are also present while the shores of the lakes support considerable populations of giant Nile Crocodiles and Hippos.

Lake Abaya – with a surface area of 1162 square Km, Lake Abaya is the sec-

ond largest in Ethiopia after Lake Tana and one of the biggest lakes in the Ethiopian Rift Valley. It is 60 Km long and 20 Kms wide with a maximum depth of 13.1 meters. The lake, found at an elevation of 1285 meters is located in what is known as the Main Ethiopian Rift, east of the Guge Mountains. The town of Arba Minch, a must see scenic town close to Nechsar National Park, lies on the southwestern shore of Lake Abaya with the southern shore reaching into the Nechsar National Park. Loka Abaya National Park located in the lowland areas surrounding Lake Abaya is known for the African Wild Dog, Buffalo and Lion species.

Lake Chamo – the third largest lake in Ethiopia is located just to the south

of Lake Abaya. Lake Chamo is a 32 Km long, 13 Km wide lake with a total surface area of 317 square Km and a maximum depth of 14 meters. Lake Chamo’s northernmost end is located within Nechsar National Park where visitors can see Hippos and giant Nile crocodiles.

The Arbaminch Crocodile Farm – located 6 Km out of town near Lake Abaya, keeps around 8000 crocodiles. Far more impressive, but only accessible by boat is lake Chamo’s Crocodile Market, a stretch of shore where hundreds of these large reptiles naturally congregate in the sun.

426

Dorze

Chencha

Another impressive attraction in the area is the Chencha, 37 Km north of Arbaminch by road, and reached by series of switchbacks that climbs 1600m over 22Km. Chencha, best known locally for its cold weather is home to Dorze people, renowned cotton weavers whose tall bee-hive shaped dwellings are among the most distinctive traditional structure to be seen anywhere in Africa.

Birbir Mariam (St.mary monastery in Birbir) lying 65Km from Arbaminch through chencha-Boroda road with a right turn at Ezo town is another historical site worth visiting.

The Dorze people

The Dorze people who speak a language in the Omotic family live in villages near the towns of Chencha and Arba Minch, in the Gamo-Gofa zone, 30 Km drive from Arba Minch up to Chencha. Weaving is a primary profession for many Dorzes. They also are farmers, who prevent soil erosion, by ingenious terracing of the mountain side.

The Dorze people are famous for their huge huts, a classic example of simple architecture, resembling a giant beehive.

The hut is about 12 meters highand is constructed with vertical hardwood poles, wover bamboo and has thatched roofs of enset (falsebanana). So these huts are constructed with the natural materials of the area. Although these huts look fragile, they can last upto 60 years. When their house begin to decay or is attacked by termites they just dig them up and after sewing bamboo struts around the base to protect the shape, mobilize all the neighbors to carry the structures and be transported to another location. Every hut has a sort of ‘’nose’’ at its south end, serving as a reception room. In the middle of the hut there is an open fire for cooking and there are also low benches to sit around the fire. Sleeping places and places for storage are located along the walls.

427

Southern Ethiopia

Karat Konso

The Konso people are Cushitic speaking people known for their unique culture of water and soil conservation through terracing. The Konso inhabit an isolated region of basalt hills, an extension of the southern highlands, flanked to the east by the semi-desert Borena lowlands and to the west by the Lower Omo Valley. They are mixed agriculturalists who harvest crops from most of their rocky, dry and infertile homeland through a use of crop rotation, extensive rock terracing and use of animal waste as a fertilizer.

Karat, the administrative center of Konso is 86Km south of Arba Minch, 90 Km Northwest of Yabello and 180Km SouthWest of Fiseha Genet via Burji and Kelle. The town serves as a gateway to the omo Valley and beyond. The Konso people’s living traditions on the surrounding hills, unique and complex culture, the stone walled terraces and settlements dating back 400 years makes your visit as exciting as that of the lower omo peoples. It is for this reason that in mid 2011 the Konso cultural landscape was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

If you don’t have time to visit one of the traditional villages, the Konso Museum located across the Konta Lodge and the Konso Cultural Centre are worth a visit.

Walled Villages of Konso

The Konso people live in the walled villages situated at the top of hills in a congested centralized settlement. They developed a defensive style of building, with villages on hilltops, protected by fortification around them. The villages constructed entirely from natural materials abundant in the area are very remarkable. There are about 32 villages with massive walled stones measuring up to 2m high. Each walled village has 1-8 concentric walls, with the central wall being taller than the second and the third wall and usually has three or four entrances which can be reached only by a limited number of foot paths. Within the walls mostly the leafy famous tree Moringa encloses every individual family compound, which might have three to five circular thatched stone huts and a store called Kosa.

428

Konso

Each walled village of Konso consists a number of sub-communities, each of which is centered upon a public gathering communal house called the Mora. It is a tall building with an open sided ground floor supported by juniper trunks, and a sharply angled thatched roof covering a wooden ceiling. The ground floor of the building serves as a shaded place where men, boys and girls can relax, play and make important communal decisions. All boys above 12 are required to sleep in the ceiling of the mora until they get married and male visitors from other villages are also allowed to sleep in there. Women are allowed to attend in the Moras only when there are cultural dances.

Infront of the Moras long dry generation poles called Olayta are erected every 18 years when a new generation takes power. The society is structured around the Kata generation set similar to that of the Oromo people.

Although the exact cycle differs from village to village, any village will initiate a new generation of boys between eight and twenty five years old, every 18 years by erecting the Olayta. Therefore inorder to know how old a village is you just count the Olaytas and multiply them by 18.

The erection of poles and stones forms an important part of Konso ritual. In any village square, you will see a number of victory stones to mark important events, like victory over attempted raid of animal or an enemy. Wagas or carved wooden markers are erected above the grave of an important Konso man or a warrior surrounded by smaller statues of his wives and defeated foes. Strikingly though these grave markers and carved stones have similarity with those stelae in Gedeo Zone of Dilla.

Gesergio (New York) – is another place of interest to be seen which is situated around 17Km south of Karat. The nick name New York is given to it due to the shape of the degraded landscape which looks like the skyscrapers of New York City. Parallel blocks of hardened land rises one after another for about one Km. 429

Jinka - Southern Ethiopia

Lodges

430

South Omo

Southern Omo

This relatively small area tucked away at the Ethio-Kenyan border is a cultural and biodiversity hotspot harboring several cultures, ethnicities and nations which coexist peacefully despite huge differences in language, tradition and lifestyle. Four of Africa’s language groups (including the Omotic language group which is endemic to South Omo) can be found in the region which is believed by many to have been a crossroad for different migrating ethnic groups for thousands of years and to this day the people of the Lower Omo Valley, including the Mursi, Suri, Nyangatom, Dizi and Me’en, are studied for their diversity.

Nowhere else in Africa can one find a truly unsullied mosaic of people as in the Lower Omo Valley, except perhaps in the adjoining northern Kenyan highlands but it would still be incomparable to the Lower Omo with its more than 20 different ethnic groups which all adhere to specific norms, habits and customs which can at times, to the modern mind, seem unruly at best.

The administrative center of the South Omo Zone is Jinka, a somewhat isolated market town situated at an altitude of 1,490 meters above sea level which possesses both rural and urban characteristics. It has a large Saturday market which traders from all over the region congregate to, but the main attraction within the town is the German-funded South Omo Research Center and Museum whose exhibits are mostly anthropological in nature providing very interesting insights into the cultures of the people of South Omo. Jinka can be reached by road by turning west at Karat-Konso south of Arba Minch. One should allocate at least a week when planning a trip to South Omo in order to take in all of the wonderful sites and scenery. Since road conditions might force slow travel, especially in the rainy season, planning for a 10 day trip would be prudent while flying to the airport at Arba Minch and driving the rest of the way is another option which would be considerably more expedient.

Karat Konso to Jinka Road via Weito, Key Afer and Qako

Jinka is 205Km far from Karat covering Weito, Key Afer and Qako villages. If you happen to be travelling on Saturday, Monday or Thursday it is worth stopping at the local markets held on Saturdays at Weito, Thursdays in Key Afer and Mondays in Qako.

Weito

It lies 75 Km from Karat and about 5 Km west of the bridge across the Weito River in the Tsemai territory. The market at Weito is attended by the Tsemai, Erbore, Hamer and Bena People.

Market days:- Saturday:- Weito – Tsemai, Bena, Erbore

Key Afer

Situated 42Km northwest of Weito, it is the most accessible town for public transport users. The best day to visit is thursday, when the town hosts colorful and multi cultural market. Though Hamer and Bena people also live in and around the town, the Ari are dominant here.

431

Southern Ethiopia

Qako

Situated almost halfway between Key Afer and Jinka, it is largely inhabited by the Bena and Ari People. The beautiful Monday market of the Ari Village will make for a day trip from Jinka as lots of vehicles travel to the market and back to Jinka town.

Market days:- Monday – Qako - Ari, Bena, Male

The Ari

The Ari, who speak a unique Omotic language, occupy the largest share of land than any other group in South Omo, extending from the northern border of Mago National Park into the highlands close to Jinka. Their numbers are estimated to be more than 150,000 and their livelihoods consist of mixed farming; growing enset, coffee and grains as well as keeping livestock and producing honey. Ari women, who are famous for their quality pottery, can be identified by their enset leaf dresses called “Gori” and bright bead and bracelet decorations.

Weito to Turmi via Arbore and Lake Chew Bahir This 120Km road stretches southwest of Weito to Turmi. It is widely populated by the Tsemai in the north and the Arbore in the south.

The Tsemai

The Tsemai live around the Weito river and their principal livelihood is rearing livestock, but they practice agriculture alongside animal husbandry. They mainly produce sorghum and maize using the slash and burn method and shifting cultivation. They have a tradition of cooperating with each other during land preparation, as well as farming and harvesting, which is a common feature of most of the ethnic groups in the Omo area.

432

South Omo

Decisions are made by calling a ‘Bulki’ (general assembly). The spiritual leader of the Tsemai is the ‘Bogolko’, who prays for rain, good harvests, the health of children and also makes the sacrifices. Tsemai tribes are considered as magicians by people in the urban areas of the Southern Omo. The men wear the ode, a sarong-like garment. They also wear beaded ornaments on their elbows and neck. Until marriage, girls wear garments made from cotton or leather. Married women wear the fulat, a skirt made from leather that is narrowed at the front and thicker at the back. They also wear kasha (a necklace).

Marriage (keberko) - In most cases, unlike the other tribes of the Omo Valley, the Tsemai does not have their partner chosen for them. They are free to make their own choice. When a couple agrees to live together, the groom will take the girl to his father’s house. The father then smears the bride with butter and prepares a skirt made of goatskin. The following morning the father sends elders to the girl’s house. When the girl’s father agrees, the dowry is paid. The bride’s family then prepares a feast for the couple and the groom’s family. At the end of the ceremony both families give their blessing for the newlyweds.

Arbore

The Arbore migrated to their present homeland from the highlands of Konso two centuries ago like their Tsemai neighbors. They played a role as middlemen in trade between the Omo River and the Konso highlands. Unlike others because the Arbore people marry with other ethnic groups, Arbore is largely inhabited by the Hamer and Borena people as well.

The Arbore

Also known as Ulde, the Arbore are the southern neighbors of the Tsemai. They live in the hot plains north of Chew Bahir and are predominantly pastoralists.

Livestocks have high economic and social value for the Arbore. They keep cattle, sheep and goats. Milking cows, calves, sheep and goats are kept in the vicinity of the settlement. The rest of the livestock move from place to place in temporary camps. In times of drought the Arbore temporarily move their cattle to the neighboring Tsemai and Borena where they have peaceful and cooperative relations.

The Arbore also practice a slash and burn shifting cultivation method of agriculture, which is dependent upon the flooding of the Weito River and the seasonal rains. For every harvesting season elected elders, known as Murra, assess the suitable land for agriculture and distribute it among the people, giving priority to the poor, orphans and widows.

Girls and women are adorned with beads and bracelets. They are dressed in skirts made from skin uniquely designed and decorated with beads and pieces of metal. Unmarried girls shave their hair clean and put a black piece of cloth on top of their head for sun protection. Arbore men wrap a white piece of cloth on their heads.

433

Southern Ethiopia

Marriage (Sur): Commonly, when a boy reaches marriage age his father will chose a wife for him, and he’ll send four elders to the bride’s family. The elders take with them a stick called “Sheniqur” and the abdominal fat of a slaughtered goat. If the bride’s family accepts the marriage they will take the abdominal fat and place it on their shoulder. The two families will then meet and fix a date for the wedding.

On the wedding day, both families contribute four cattle which will be slaughtered for a feast. Relatives and friends eat, drink, sing and dance. In the afternoon the bride will be circumcised and taken to the house of the groom’s family.

A sheep is slaughtered and the tail is cooked and eaten by the bride and the groom, after which their hands will be tied together with a piece of skin.

Funerals (negelcha): When an adult dies all his jewelry is buried with him. Relatives will put butter and milk in his mouth with a new gourd and the corpse is covered with a new cloth and sheepskin. Then the relatives will ask the dead person to bless his cattle. Finally, four individuals will take the corpse and bury it. Following this ritual it is believed that his cattle will be safe.

A few days after he is buried a ritual called awal will follow. A goat will be slaughtered and one of the un-skinned legs is placed on the grave of the dead person. The eldest son will then inherit his father’s wealth and must promise to distribute his father’s cattle to his paternal uncles and younger brothers. A feast is prepared for relatives and friends.

Market days:- Saturday:- Arbore – Arbore, Hamer

434

Hamer

Lake Chew Bahir

Lake Chew Bahir (meaning salt sea in Amharic) is located at the boundary between Oromia and Southern Nations, Nationalities and Peoples’ Regions and measures 64 Km long and 24 Km wide. Fed by the Weito River from the north, this salt lake used to cover an area of 2000 square Km in 1960 but it has shrunk to no more than a swamp over the years. The lake and its environs, which mostly consist of dry acacia woodland, are protected within the Chew Bahir Wildlife Reserve. The Reserve supports average numbers of Grevy’s zebra, greater and lesser Kudu, gerenuk and Grant’s gazelle, lion, spotted hyena and various small carnivores as well as a multitude of birdlife in the swamps near it including lesser flamingoes (which can number in the hundreds of thousands at times), different types of storks, waterfowl and waders while the acacia woodland surrounding the lake is home to the pink-breasted lark, scaly chatterer, greyheaded silver bill and Shelley’s starling among several others.

The Hamers: Turmi and Dimeka

The Hamer control a significantly large territory starting from the Omo River to Lake Chew Bahir. Their numbers are estimated to be around 35,000 and they speak an Omotic tongue endemic to the area and are given to accessorize heavily with women donning leather skirts decorated with shells, several copper bracelets around their arms

435

Southern Ethiopia

and heavy iron necklaces around their necks while their hair is dyed with ochre and somewhat resembles a type of dreadlocks in the way they wear it. Hamer men can have clay hair buns on their heads signifying that they have killed a person or large animal within the past year but are otherwise lightly adorned except for some body scarification which both men and women apply by cutting themselves and treating the wound with charcoal and ash. The Hamer are known for their almost religious zeal for the coming-of-age ritual called “Ekuli” (also practiced by other tribes) where an initiate vaults onto the back of one bull out of around thirty held side by side, and then proceeds to run across the bulls’ backs without falling, should he succeed, he has to do it all over again at least twice. If he succeeds then he may take a wife, but if he fails he will have to wait a year and try again. This bull jumping ceremony is a three day long initiation held after the harvest time, between July and March. Evangadi the cultural dance of the Hamer people is another impressive attraction not to be missed. Evangadi Night dances take place on a regular basis and are usually associated with crop harvests, the full moon, peace and stability. They are also where unmarried women and young men come together to meet, dance, and enjoy relations.

Turmi

It is a traditional small town lying just 85Km from Key Afer and an important transport hub. Best known for its Monday market, it is rewarding to spend time and visit a couple of small traditional villages that lie within a short distance from the town. There are places like the Buska Lodge, the Turmi Lodge, Evangadi Lodge and others for accommodation.

Market days:- Monday – Turmi - Hamer, Kara Market days:- Thursday:Turmi – Hamer, Kara

Dimeka

Located 20Km north of Turmi and 58Km south of Key Afer , this principal town of Hamer lies on the southern verge of Bena territory. This Hamer town’s Saturday market attracts the Bena people who are agriculturalists and almost similar in culture to the Hamer.

Market days:- Tuesday:- Dimeka – Hamer, Kara Market days:- Saturday:- Dimeka – Hamer, Kara

436

South Omo

Omorate

Located about 72Km west of Turmi on the eastern bank of Omo River is mainly inhabited by the Dasanech people. The main cultural attractions are the Dasanech villages that lie outside of the town. From Omorate the village of Kolcho which is set in magnificent sand cliff is also accessible. The inhabitants of Kolcho, the Karo are known for their traditional face painting.

The Dasanech

The Dasanech live around the Omo delta on the northern side of Lake Turkana.

They practice flood retreat cultivation, pastoralism and fishing. The Dasanech are the most southerly tribe living in Ethiopia’s Omo valley. The lands of the Dasanech are semi-arid and they live where the Omo delta enters Lake Turkana. Their name means people of the Delta.

Cattle are central to the lives of the Dasanech, just as they are for the other tribes of the Omo Valley. Apart from providing meat, milk, leather for clothing, houses and mattresses they provide status in the tribe, and show the bride’s wealth that allows a man to marry. The Dasanech tribe is not strictly defined by ethnicity. Over time the tribe has absorbed a wide range of different peoples and it’s now divided in to eight main clans. Each clan has its own identity and customs, its own responsibilities towards the rest of the tribe, and is linked to a particular territory. Members of the same clan are forbidden from marrying or indeed dancing with each other. Dasanech women wear clothes made from leather. The men wear sarong-like garments. Both men and women of the tribe adorn themselves with beads and bracelets. Men can often be seen carrying a small stool or pillow, which is pretty ubiquitous in this southern region.

The Karo

The Karo, numbering only about 3,000 souls, mainly live on flood retreat cultivation on the eastern banks of the Omo River. Karo men are renowned for their intricate face and body painting practices, which they apply on their heads and torso before major events. They use locally found white chalk, red iron ore, yellow mineral ore and black charcoal to decorate their skin in imitation of the spotted plumage of the guinea fowl. The look is completed by inserting feather plumes into immaculately crafted hair buns which can take up to three days to complete.

Lake Turkana – The last of the Rift Valley Lakes (in Ethiopia), formerly known as Lake Rudolf, is Lake Turkana. It is located southwest of the Omorate within the Ethiopian and Kenyan Rift Valley and is the largest permanent desert lake as well as the largest alkaline lake in the world. Despite the climate being hot and dry, the lake supports a rich lacustrine wildlife. Predominantly volcanic rocks ring the lake and it has an active volcano for a central island. Three rivers, the Omo, Turkwel and Kerio flow into the lake but it has no outflow, so it only loses water to evaporation. Large numbers of Hominid fossils discovered in the Lake Turkana area have led anthropologists proclaiming it as the cradle of humankind.

437

Southern Ethiopia

Murelle

Situated 55 Km north of Omorate and a similar distance northwest of Turmi is the best base for visits to Kangatan, the only accessible habitation of the Bumi above the western bank of the Omo.

The Bumi (Nyangatom)

The Bumi are a tribe of about 6000-7000 pastoralists who reside on the western side of the Omo River south of Omo National Park and speak an eastern Nilotic language.

They are closely affiliated with the Turkana people of northern Kenya as evidenced by the tangled necklaces and cropped hairstyles of their women. The Bumi are agro-pastoralists who rely on cattle herding and floodretreat agriculture.

The Bumi are also expert crocodile hunters. It is quite common of the Bumi, a fierce people, to be at war with their neighbors including the Hamer, the Karo, and the Surma or be involved in inter-tribal cattle raids which can be deadly. The Bumi can be recognized by the lip plugs that both men and women wear, the men’s are made of ivory and the women’s from copper.

Mago National Park – Situated within the trough of the Great Rift Valley, Mago National Park is just east of the Omo River at a distance of 790 Km from Addis and the park headquarter is 115Km from Murelle. The South Omo town of Jinka, a mere 34Km away from the park is a relatively good base from which to explore the park since it has somewhat average lodging facilities.

The park, known to shelter 76 large mammal species, 237 bird species, 14 fish species and 4 species of amphibians, is crisscrossed by three rivers which sustain the animals and plants residing within. Some of the animals you will most likely encounter at Mago National Park include Elephants, Buffalo, Waterbuck, Warthog, Leopard, Chee-

438

South Omo

tah, Gerenuk, Jackals, Lions and many more. Bird watchers can catch glimpses of Wattled Ibis, Thick-billed Raven, Abyssinian Ground Hornbill and Secretary bird among others. Mago National Park, apart from its wildlife is famous among visitors for the Mursi villages.

The Mursi

The Mursi, who live close to the Sudanese border and numbered 7,500 in a 2007 census, are particularly known for the large, round lip plates worn by their women. It is their custom that when a young woman reaches maturity (usually 16-20), an incision is made on the lower lip. Mursi men must also undergo trials before marriage in the form of a duel by sticks called “Donga”. Donga/ stick fights are simple enough affairs. To win, one only has to hammer his opponent into submission, then the victor is carried to a waiting group of young girls to claim his bride.

The Bodi

The Bodi are predominantly pastoral, living directly north of the Mursi, with whom they share much of their way of life. Except for limited agricultural activity around the Omo River, the Bodi depend entirely on cattle. Men dress much like the Mursi and shave their hair in the same way. Bodi men are of larger stature than men from the neighboring tribes. Women dress in skirts made from goatskin tied at the waist and shoulder. The men fasten a strip of cotton or bark-cloth around their waist.

Like the Mursi people, women cut their hair short and wear a small wooden plate in their ear. And like the kara, Bodi women pierce their bottom lip and fill the hole with a nail or wooden plug in a wider mode. Body sacrification is practiced by men and broadly by women for decoration.

Fattening Ceremony (Kel) - The kel ceremony takes place every June or July, which is the beginning of the Bodi New Year. Bodi men feed on blood and milk for several months before the ceremony. The date for the ceremony is fixed by

439

Southern Ethiopia

the traditional leader (Komoro). On the day of the ceremony cattle are killed using a stone and the elders examine the intestines in order to forecast the coming year. More cattle are killed until the forecast is agreeable and the blood from these cattle is smeared on the Komoro. The Bodi men who have been fattening up then pass in front of the Komoro and elders showing off their physique. The Komoro elects the ‘Fat Man of the Year’. Feasting follows and the women perform a special dance called haret.

Jinka to Maze National Park through Basketo and Saula

It is just 40km northeast to reach Jinka from the Mago National Park headquarters.

Basketo north of Jinka is one of the four special districts of the southern region which is bordered on the east, north and northwest by GamoGofa and south west and west by southern Omo. It can also be accessed from Sodo town just 200km via Maze National Park and Sawla town. The area is rich in wildlife and natural habitat. There are also different cold and hot springs, beautiful scenery which is rugged and mountainous, various traditional court practices, traditional musical instruments are main highlights of the area.

Maze National Park

This National Park is situated in the GamoGofa zone, 460 Km from Addis Abeba and 85 Km south west of Wolaita Sodo. The park, covering an area of 220 square Km, lies at an altitude of 1800 meters above sea level at its highest points and 900 meters above sea level on its lowest ones.

Maze National Park is known to host 39 large and medium sized mammals as well as almost 200 species of birds. It is particularly a good location to see the endemic Swayne’s Hartebeest, being one of three protected areas where the species resides. Other mammals in the park include Orbi, Bohor Redbuck, Kudu, Leopard, Lions, Wild Cats, Waterbuck, Anubis Baboon and many more while birds like Crowned Crane, Saddle-billed Ibis, Fish Eagles and different species of Starlings can also be spotted.

From the park you can easily go 85Km northeast and reach Wolaita Sodo and continue your trip to the capital or other routes of your choice.

440

South - Eastern

Southern Rift Valley

2. South Eastern Route: Addis Abeba via Mojo , the Rift Valley Lakes and

Hawassa to the Kenyan Border

This road is most regularly travelled by travelers next to the northern historical route. It serves as a gateway for travelers to the Omo Valley, Bale National Park or the Kenyan border Moyale.

The highlights of this road are the Shashemene town which serves as the junction to different corners of the country and Hawassa, the capital city of the Southern region. It starts from the capital along an express toll road or a good asphalt road passing Debrezeit and branching south from Adama road at Mojo, 75 km from Addis Abeba. The main attraction of the region is the southern rift valley lakes; a string of one artificial and five natural lakes (Koka, Ziway, Langano, Abiata, Shala and Hawassa), which lies close to the main road.

Addis Abeba to the Southern Rift Valley Lakes Southern Rift Valley Lakes

Like a chain of pearls, the lakes dot the Rift Valley, which stretches from Syria to Mozambique with a width of 50km. All of the lakes are full of fish like tilapia and Nile perch and, thus, attract many different bird species, creating a paradise for birdwatchers. They are also ideal for a real vacation of relaxing, swimming, boating, fishing, wildlife watching, and enjoying serene, romantic scenes, especially at sunset, with only the voices of the birds or crickets as background music. Coming from Addis Abeba, the manmade Koka Reservoir is the first encountered while heading south. Not long after passing this reservoir, the first true Rift Valley Lake comes into sight.

Lake Koka - is an artificial lake from the Awash River with spectacular scenery as the other rift valley lakes and a bird watching area which can be explored from Meki.

Meki is a small town along the way to Ziway some 60km south of Mojo.

Lake Ziway

Here, many birds, such as great white pelicans, saddle bill, yellow bill, storks, and kingfishers can be seen. Hippos can also be seen. A boat can be rented to visit one or more of the islands with their monasteries. DebreTsion is the most famous. It is said that in the 9th century AD, the Ark of the Covenant was brought here from Axum because it was in danger of being destroyed by the ferocious Queen Yodit “Gudit.” Indeed, the oldest written document about Axum has been discovered here on Tulu Gudo Island.

The inhabitants of the lake’s islands speak a language related to Tigrignya (the language of the north) called Zay.

Lepis Forest

Lepis’s juniper forest can be explored by hiking or horse riding. The best part of the forest is the beautiful Lepis Waterfall, most powerful during the rainy season (June to September). The forest is also a birdwatcher’s paradise, boasting several near-endemic (endemic to Ethiopia and Eritrea) species, such as the white-cheeked turaco and black-winged lovebird.

441

Southern Ethiopia

Skilled local guides and horse handlers prove invaluable for exploring the forest of Lepis. If wanting to extend a visit and spend a night or two, there is a community-run campsite traversed by a small river. If lucky, one of Lepis’s famous horseracing events might be experienced.

Lepis Craft Shop

The Lepis Craft Shop houses products made by Mishkie Handcraft Association. It is strategically located right in the middle of Lepis Market. The shop doubles as a workshop, and, on any given day, women can be found weaving baskets. The main product found here is called a mishkie, a small round basket designed to be used as a penholder.

Lake Langano

Lake Langano is the preferred place for weekenders from Addis Abeba. It is one of the few Rift Valley Lakes without the danger of bilharzia. The old growth forest on the eastside of the lake is a great place for nature lovers and birdwatchers. Several nice lodges such as Bishangari Eco Lodge and Sabana Lodge can be found on the shores of the lake that offer a nice and calm environment for a few relaxed days.

Lakes Abiata and Shalla

On the opposite side of the main road, not far from Langano, is Abiata-Shalla National park. It consists of two lakes, Abiata and Shalla, which are located only three Km apart but, nevertheless, differ greatly in character. The national park is especially good for hiking, enjoying beautiful scenery, and watching water birds. It hosts ostriches and other wild mammals, as well. A stunning spectacle of untouched, un-spoilt Ethiopia can be witnessed here. The lakes really do host an extraordinary number of birds, such as wild ducks, geese, cormorants, flamingos, and vast numbers of great white pelicans.

These islands are home to the most important breeding colony of great white pelicans in Africa.

442

South - Eastern

Southern Rift Valley

Abiata-Shalla Lakes National Park

Located 200km south of Addis Abeba in Arsi Negelle Wereda, Oromia Regional State; it is comprised of two lakes (Abiata and Shalla). The park was established in 1970 for its many species of aquatic birds, particularly great white pelicans and greater and lesser flamingos. With two lakes hosting 400 bird species (half the total number of bird species in Ethiopia), the park includes 4820ha of aquatic habitat. It has an average altitude of 1700m above sea level. The highest point in the park is Mount Fike, 2075m above sea level, which is located between the two lakes. The average annual temperature is about 20 degrees C. Relative humidity ranges between 480 and 680. The rainy seasons are from March to April and June to September. Abiata, only 14m deep, is where the birds come to feed, while their nesting paradise is Shalla, which is the deepest of all of the Ethiopian Great white Pelicans Photo by: Dr. Ludwig Siege Rift Valley Lakes at 266m.

You can visit the museum (which gives an idea of the birdlife in the park), the ostrich farm, and the hot springs on the shores of Lake Shalla. Great white pelicans, greater and lesser flamingos, and African fish eagles are the key species among the rich birdlife supported. Other animal species include greater kudu, warthog, anubis baboon, grivet, guereza, oribi, klipspringer, and jackal.

Nearby Lake Langano has varied overnight options. Many of these places offer all-inclusive packages. Sabana Beach Resort, Bishangari Lodge, Africa Vacation Club, Wenney Eco-Lodge, and Langano Lodge are some of the best options. Camping is also permitted near the hot springs in the park.

Shashemene and Its Surrounds

Shashemene- 250 km south of Addis Abeba is mainly a crossroads town. The north leading to Addis Abeba or Nazareth; the east leading to the Bale Mountains and Sof Omar Caves; the west to Sodo, Hosainna, and Arba Minch; and the south to Hawassa, Dilla, and Moyale. The town is also famous for being the settlement of many Rastafarians from Jamaica and other countries. They worship Ras Tafari (throne name for Haile Selassie) as their savior and Ethiopia as their paradise.

443

Bale Mountains National Park One Park –Many Worlds (by Biniyam Admassu Frankfurt Zoological Society, Ethiopia)

The Bale Mountains are Ethiopia’s best-kept secret. It has been estimated that the Bale Mountains are home to more locally endemic species of mammals than any other area of equivalent size on the planet. The Bale Mountains National Park (BMNP) is located 400km southeast of Addis Abeba and 150km east of Shashemene on the road to Goba in the Oromia Regional National State. It belongs to the Bale-Arsi massif, which forms the western section of the Southeastern Ethiopian highlands. A large part of the park is above 3000 m a.s.l. and in fact this is the largest area at this altitude in Africa. The highest peak in the park (and the second highest in Ethiopia) is Tulu Dimtu (the Red mountain) with an altitude of 4,377 metres.

Bale Mountains is an area of paramount importance for numerous reasons. The mountains provide habitat and sustain life of many endemic and endangered species. Furthermore, over 12 million people in the southeast of Ethiopia, together with their livestock and the environment, rely on the water that originates form the Bale massif.

Bale Mountains offers opportunities for Mountain trekking, horse riding, forest walk and scenic driving. It is home to the “Unique 5” mammals -which refer to five distinctive and endemic large mammals found only in Ethiopia: Ethiopian Wolf, Mountain Nyala, Bale Monkey, Giant Mole Rat and Menelik’s Bushbuck.

Giant Mole Rat

Photo By: Vincent Munier

Bale Mountains National Park is an important bird area. Over 280 species have been recorded in BMNP, including seven of the 16 species endemic to Ethiopia: Spot-breasted lapwing, Yellow-fronted Parrot, Abyssinian wood-pecker, Abyssinian long claw, Abyssinian cat bird, Black-headed siskin and Bale Parisoma Ethiopian Wolf Photo By: Thierry Grobet .The areas with ample rodent communities are very important for rare large eagles, vultures and other raptors. It is also ranked the fourth most important birding site in Africa by the African Bird Club.

The Bale Mountains National Park offers opportunities for unsurpassed mountain walking, horse trekking, forest walk, bird watching and scenic driving. It also presents the chance to view many of the endemic mammals that reside within the park, specifically the mountain Nyala and Ethiopian wolf, as well as birds such as the Wattled Crane and Bearded Vulture.

However, perhaps the primary attraction of the Bale Mountains is the simple escape it offers from city life; into peace, serenity and beauty.

SOF-OMAR (From Bale Mountains National Park BIRDING BOOKLET by Frankfurt Zoological Society) With a total length of over 1.5km, Sof-Omar is one of the longest underground cave systems in Africa. According to tradition Sof-Omar was the name of a Muslim holy man who lived in the area.

The area is part of the Bale Lowlands and is characterized by a semi-arid ecological zone containing mainly Commiphora-Kirkia-Acacia woodland and bushland vegetation types. This area hosts mostly Somali-Masai Biome assemblages.

The cave is remarkable for its cathedralesque carvings and slender passages. The full walk through the caves is 1.7m, and takes around three to four hours. From December through May, the river is low enough to cross although water can be waist deep in some places. Look out for the bats that hang overhead and the eels that live below.

Interesting birds one can easily spot include the white-bellied go-away-bird, Somali long-billed crombec, Egyptian vulture, shining sunbird, Hunter’s sunbird, Fischer’s starting, brown-tailed rock-chat, bristle-crowned starling, black-throated barbet and African orange-bellied parrot. Furthermore, sof-Omar is the best place to see the range-restricted and vulnerable Salvadori’s seedeater.

Direction and Accessibility Coming from Goba, take the right turn in Robe Town at Waqo Gutu roundabout and drive, on a good dirt road, towards the small town of Goro. From here, descend into the valley of Sof-Omar. Continue to where the road crosses the valley bottom, and at the apex of the U-turn keep an eye out on your right for “Sof-Omar” painted in faded red on a rock, just before the road takes a harsh left that takes you down to the valley of the cave. The caves of Sof-Omar are 96km from Robe.

Dire Sheik Hussein

The shrine of Sheik Hussein was named after Sheik Hussein Bin Malka who was renowned for his religious teachings, high devotion and miraculous deeds. The shrine is over 900 years old and contains over 11 mosques. Like Sof-Omar, it is also a popular place for worship, attracting thousands of pilgrims from all over the country.

The vegetation and climatic conditions are similar to that of Sof-Omar, and the biome is mostly Somali-Masai. In addition to several of the birds found in Sof-Omar, other birds that can be found in the Sheik Hussein area are the boran cisticola, red-naped bushshrike, rosy-patched bush-shrike, Abyssinian ground hornbill and shining sunbird.

It is also the only other alternative site to observe the Salvadori’s seedeater besides the Sof-Omar area in the Bale Region.

For more information on Bale and its surroundings visit www.balemountains.org and www.fzs.org.

Southern Ethiopia

Wondo Genet - is just about 20km southeast of Shashemene which is popular for its hot- spring resort. The resort was founded in 1970 by princess Tenagnework, the daughter of Emperor Haile Selassie I. Its beautiful landscape, hot springs, the dense green forest supporting Anubis baboon, monkeys and other species with forest birds makes the place a tourist paradise.

Senkele Swayne’s Hartebeest Sanctuary - located south of Arbaminch road in Oromia and Southern Nations regional states is another attraction site easily accessed from Shashemene. Though originally established to protect the swaynes hartebeest, the open acacia woodland of the park is quite scenic, and some of the animals are fairly easily spotted. You can see Swayne’s hartebeest, bohor reedbuck, greater kudu, spotted hyena, serval and civet cat, caracal, warthog, common jackal, and oribi antelope, as well as different species of birds.

Halaba Kulito Town - is the administrative and commercial center of the Halaba special district. It lies on the main high way route that runs from Shashemene to Arbaminch with 310 kms from Addis Abeba and 85km from Hawassa. This pleasant town is surrounded by various amazing attraction including: Arto hot spring about 11km from Halaba Kulito town, the Belate waterfall 2km from the town on Belate River, and the big open Market (Thursday weekly Market).

Hawassa

Just 25 km south of Shashemene, it is the modern capital of Southern Nations Regional State and is situated on the shores of Lake Hawassa, one of the Rift Valley Lakes. In the morning, a big fish market is active here. Addis Abeba, Arba Minch, Bale Mountains National Park, and the Kenyan Border are all within a comfortable half-day to full-day drive from Hawassa. Comfortable hotels can be found here now, such as the new Haile Resort, built by the world record breaking runner Haile Gebrselassie, the city center South StarHotel, Lake View Hotel, United Africa Hotel, Central Hawassa, Oasis and Yamare Hotel.

Dilla - the administrative center of Gedeo Zone, is a charming city located at a distance of 356 Km from Addis Abeba. The town of Yirga Chefe is another important city in the Gedeo Zone famous for its exquisite coffee, known internationally as one of the best strains in the world. Dilla, found just south of Hawassa, represents a kind of epicenter of the southern Ethiopian tradition of stelae erection and also has a large worthwhile market. Parasols, made out of false banana (enset) leaves, shelter abundant agricultural produce.

The existence of over 6000 megalithic stones in the Gedeo zone at the archeological sites of Chelba Tutti, Sede Mercato and Tuttu Fella megalithic sites among others and the ancient rock engravings at Odola Gelma makes a trip to Gedeo worthwhile. Tutu Fella is one of the most impressive of the southern stelae sites. It lies near the village of Wenago, 13km from Dilla, along a track up a hill. Around 80 stones are variously carved with facial features and genitalia, believed to represent the sex of the person buried beneath. Tutiti, the second major site in the area, lies on a hill 2.3km from the village of Chalba, consisting of some very large, tapering, mostly un-carved stones, again marking graves.

446

Dilla

Hotels

447

Dilla

Pension

448

/ Cafés and Restaurants

Dilla

Cafés and Restaurants

449

Yirgacheffe

HOTELS - SOUTH

450

Southern Ethiopia

But aside from these archeological marvels which are wonders of early human creativity and innovation, Gedeo Zone’s best attraction comes in the form of the Gedeo Agro Forestry system, an alliance between man and nature for the preservation of the natural environment and the prosperity of the community.

Yabello to Moyale (Ethio – Kenya Border)

Situated 200 km south from Dilla just halfway to the Kenyan border town of Moyale, it is a main crossroads town connecting towards Konso via Amaro and Burji and South Omo to the east and north east to Negele Borena, Goba then to Bale.

Yabello National Park

For birdwatchers, Yabello is home to white tailed swallow and Stresemann’s bush crow restricted within a short radius distance of Yabello and other mammals such as dik dik and long necked gerenuk. Other key species of the park includes: Burchell’s Zebra, Ostrich, Borena Gazelle and Abyssinian Bush Crow.

Segen Area Peoples

This Zone is a recently established zonal administration of the southern region. It is the unification of four special districts Burji, Amaro, Derashe, Konso and the Ale district.

The area is geographically located within the Segen River, which originates from the Amaro Mountains and drains to Lake Chew Bahir.

Burji –Soyama is the principal town and it is located just 70km from Karat Konso and is known for the Burji cultural Dance and the Segen Wildlife Controlled Hunting Area.

Amaro –Kele is the principal town and it is located 60km from Burji and 90km from

Dilla. It is known for the chained Amaro Mountains, different culturally protected forests, waterfalls, parts of Lake Chamo and NechSar National Park, handcrafts and the ancient Yero Wala Medhanealem Church.

Derashe- Gidole is the principal town and it is located 65km from Karat Konso and

55 km south of Arba Minch. Derashe is known for its musical instrument made of bamboo called Fella. Fella is played by men who have strong breathing capacity and who are able to scale the pitch at social gatherings and cultural festivals.

Then from here you can connect to Konso then either head to Jinka the capital of the South Omo or head back to Arba Minch.

3. South Western Route: Addis Abeba via Wolkite, Jimma to the Kaffa Coffee Biosphere, Bench Maji, Southwest Omo and Sheka Forest

This route focuses more on the western zones of the region starting from the Guraghe zone to the evergreen natural forests with wild coffee, variety of wild animals, birds and attractive waterfalls of the Southern Nations Nationalities People Region. But it can be combined with the Western Ethiopia part as some of the oromia region towns like Jimma, Bedelle and Gore serves as major gateways to the Kaffa and other regions.

451

Southern Ethiopia

Jimma

Addis Abeba to Guraghe

Once you pass the town of Wolisso on the Jimma road the next major town is Wolkite, situated at 160km southwest of the capital.

Wolkite is the capital of Guraghe zone in which different attractions like monasteries, churches and mosques are abundant. Among these the major are:

Mihur Eyesus Monastery – is an ancient monastery 53km from the town of Wolkite, established by Abune Zena Markos in 1250. The monastery has a museum with different collections of historic and religious heritages and ceremonial clothing.

Gibe Sheleko National Park

Gibe Sheleko National park is a recently established national park located just 20km from wolkite and 174 km from the capital and is crossed by the AddisJimma road. Its topography is unique and characterized by hilly terrains and rolling plains. The park supports mammals and a variety of bird species and it is covered by woodland and riverine forests and savannah grass species. There are different rivers, streams, hotsprings and gorges crossing the park among which the Gibe river is the largest bordering the park to the south.

The Hippopotamus are very abundant in the area and they can easily be seen anywhere in and on the edge of the Gibe and Wabe rivers. A huge mass of endemic bird species like white checked-turaco and Egyptian goose can be seen in the park.

Mesqel is the most and greatly celebrated religious festival of the Guraghe people.

Yem

Yem is another special district of the southern region on the Addis Jimma road. It is located 110km from Wolkite and 127km northeast of Jimma. Most of the attractions in Yem are located in and around Fofa, the administrative center of the Yem District.

‘Angary’ the palace of the former Yem kingdom, stelae sites, manmade caves, churches, waterfalls, attractive landscape and unique cultural ceremonies are the attractions of the region for travelers across Gibe River on the Addis Jimma road.

Jimma

Jimma is the largest settlement in western Ethiopia and it served as the capital of Kaffa, in which it was split between the new administrative regions of Oromia (of which Jimma is part) and the Southern Nations, Nationalities and Peoples’ Region. Jimma is the major highlight of the western region in which it serves as a springboard to Agaro, Bedelle and the Great Ethiopian Renaissance Dam through Nekemte and Assossa to the northwest, Konta, Dawro, Wolaita Sodo and South Omo to the south and to kaffa and Bench Maji to the south west.

Konta

Konta is one of the four special districts in the SNNPRS. The administrative center of this special woreda is Ameya which is located about 367km southwest of Hawassa via Sodo –Chida road; 450km from Addis Abeba through Jimma and 27km from Chida.

452

South - Western Route

Chebera Churchura National Park, waterfalls (Barbo water fall which is 20km from Ameya and Balana water fall which is some 4km out of Ameya), historical and natural caves, traditional dance and music are some of the major tourist attractions of the Konta Area. Ameya serves as a base to visit the culture and traditions of Konta people and other attractions of Konta including the Chebera Churchura National Park.

The most interesting market in Konta Special Woreda include: Ameya (Saturday) and Chida (Thursday). Ameya and its surrounding by itself is a great interest to hikers and nature lovers.

Dawro

Dawro, the capital Tercha is located 510 kms, 284 kms & 110kms from Addis Abeba, Hawassa & Wolaita Sodo towns respectively. It has several attractions around it. This includes; - The Dawro people cultural dancing and musical instruments particularly the longest bamboo made flute known as Dinkye & Hitstsya - The Halala Fort- a historical defense wall which built by king Halala - The biodiversity rich Chebera Churchura National Park (African elephant & herd Buffalos) - The historical old churches of Tocha Medhanealem and St. Michael church.

Chebera-Churchura National Park

This is a new park established in 2005 to protect the declining population of elephants.

Elevation ranges from 700m to 2540m above sea level. Rainfall ranges from 1200mm to 2300mm per annum, and the temperature ranges from 10 to 29 degrees C. The wet season is from March to September, and the dry season extends from December to February.

It is located 460km southwest of Addis Abeba, in Konta Woreda and Dawro Zone of and the Southern Nations Regional State. The park harbors at least 60 individual elephants in different herds. Lesser and greater kudu, lion, serval cat, and buffalo are also seen. One can reach the park following either the Addis Abeba to Jimma then to Ameya Road or Addis Abeba to Shashemene via Sodo and Waka to Tocha Road. However, there is some 80km of rough dry weather road crossing the western side of the park with views of the entire park. It is also possible to trek inside the park, following footpaths, with the help of a local guide.

Kaffa – Bonga

This western part of the SNNPRS after Jimma is known for its natural and historic attractions and comprises Kaffa, Bench Maji and Sheka Zones. It is an area of paradise for nature lovers. The dense and evergreen natural forest associated with wild (organic) coffee found in these zones are full of wild animals, veriety of birds, the most beautiful and very attractive waterfalls and hot springs.

Kaffa zone is one of the administrations in SNNPRS. It is located in the western part of the region with the total area of 10602.7 sq km. The zone is rugged and mountainous with mountain range from 500 to 3500 meter above sea level.

453

Southern Ethiopia

Bonga

Kaffa zone is believed to be the place where coffee was first discovered to be a mild and agreeable stimulant suitable for human use with many claiming that the word coffee itself originated from the name Kaffa.

The historical and natural tourist attractions of Kaffa are plenty and very impressive. Its unique Cultural and historical heritages, pleasant climate, rich flora and fauna and the hospitable people put the area as a potential tourist destination in the country. Moreover, the Barta, Ellelo, Adiyo and Ekero falls, the Dadiben Hot spring, the ancient Bahta Giorgis and Andracha Medahnialem Monastery, the Tongolla Mosque, the Gurguto natural Bridge, Wushwush tea plantations and Mankira: the place where coffee Arabica was born are a few among many other attractions sites in the zone. Kaffa Zone is inhabited mainly by three nationalities namely, Kaficho, Chara and Nao. The people of Kaffa speak their own Kaficho language.

Bonga

Bonga the capital of Kaffa is located 103km south of Jimma and 453 Km from Addis Abeba. This small and hilly town serves as an important base to explore the attractions of the Kaffa region. The area around Bonga is very scenic and offers some stirring views over the forested slopes with lots of attractive waterfalls, hot springs, caves and forests full of bird and wildlife.

The town will soon boast a coffee museum, the Bonga Coffee Museum, which is expected to be opened soon. Another major reason to visit Bonga is the Kaffa Biosphere Reserve (www.kafa-biosphere.com), officially designated by UNESCO in 2011.

The Kaffa Coffee Biosphere Reserve – this reserve is to be found in

the western region of SNNPRS in the Kaffa zone. The Kaffa Biosphere Reserve is a 760,000 ha plot of land covered by lush forests, thriving wetlands, imposing mountains, steep valleys and rolling plains which captivate the soul and spark the imagination.

One of 34 International Biodiversity Hotspots, the reserve has a global role to play in conserving the ever-dwindling forest cover of the world. These are among the last remaining subtropical moist forests of any significant size to be found in Ethiopia, and are renowned for their abundance of sustainable nontimber forest products. The Kaffa Coffee Biosphere Reserve has a recorded 100 species of woody plants, just as many bird species and almost 50 different types of mammals.

Coffee is of course a major part of the reserve, with an astounding 5000 different coffee genes having been confirmed to exist within its bounds. Wild, natural coffee of the highest quality is everywhere to be found in the KCBR, which, together with forest cardamom, forest pepper and honey, contributes significantly to the livelihoods of the surrounding communities.

These forests managed by the community also host a large number of monkey, a rich and largely undocumented avifauna, and numerous interesting natural features. Guided walks for trekking can be arranged from the tourism bureau in

454

Southern Ethiopia

Bonga and there is a plan for the community to provide camping, horseback excursions and other activities.

Bench Maji

Bench Maji zone is endowed with cultural, historical and natural tourist attractions.

Some of the attractions includes: Omo National Park which is one of the highly biologically diverse wildernesses area in Africa, the beautiful Adicaus Rain Forest, Dembi manmade lake, Genta Hot Spring, Usuqa holy hot and cold springs, Aaku and Tum waterfalls (Maji), Red color water fall (Shekobench), Sala cave holy water (Sai kebele), Diabtan cave (Benchi-Ginci Kebele), Bani Cave (Meenit) and Geltin Stelae (Bench).

Apart from the untouched native cultural and natural tourism attractions, the area is potential for rural Agro tourism and eco-tourism development.

Mizan- Aman (also called simply Mizan) is a town in southern Ethiopia and the administrative as well as the commercial center of Benchi-maji zone.

This town lies with a distance of 570km from Addis Abeba through Jimma high way route. This pleasant town is surrounded by various amazing tourist attraction sites.

The area around Mizan Aman is very scenic. It is also the most important base to explore the natural, cultural and historical tourist attraction of Bench Maji Zone.

Ussika Hot Springs:- Ussika hot springs are found in Shekko Wereda of Bench Majji Zone on the foot hill of “GizeMeret”. It is situated at an altitude of 980 meter above sea level. To get to the hot springs site, follow the Mizan-Tepi road for about 32km till you reach a small village called Shimmi and then walk out of Shimmi for about an hour and ten minutes on foot within a beautiful and dense natural forest associated with forest (organic) coffee called Sheko natural forest.

There are about 44 hot springs in and around Ussika site which have their own names derived from the 44 Arks (Tabot) of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. The hot springs are bubbling from the ground here and there with different degree of temperature.

Bebeka- is the oldest and largest coffee plantation of Ethiopia 30km south of Mizan

Teferi along the road towards Kibish. It contains an area of 9340 ha and in harvesting time some ten thousands of workers are employed. The production volume is around 15, 000 quintals of coffee per year. A tour through the vast plantation and the facilities is offered and guests can stay in the plantation’s guesthouse. The hills to the west of Bebeka are known for some larger wildlife, including a little-known population of small reddish buffaloes.

Tepi- is a small town situated at 50km northwest of Mizan Teferi, and it is home to Tepi Coffee Estate, the second largest estate extending over 6,000 ha. It is a place of interest to travelers for the varied birdlife that rustles through the forest and accessible by several walking trails that lead from the plantation guesthouse. There is no fee to tour the plantation, but you must first get permission from the “Tepi Council” office in town. The Tepi Coffee Plantation Guesthouse (Tel. 047 556 0062) serves 10 rooms and 456

Southwest Omo

has a restaurant. The coffee here is very excellent, and by far the cheapest anywhere in the world. About 87km past Tepi you will come to the town of Masha, the capital of the Sheka Zone.

Southwest Omo

Set in the south western lowlands roughly 180km south of Mizan Tefari, the unassuming village of Kibish is the conventional springboard for excursions into the western half of South Omo, an area divided from its better-known eastern counterpart by the long, bridgeless stretch of the Omo River that runs southward from the Sodo-Jimma road to Lake Turkana. Southwest Omo is home to the surma in which the Surma subgroups participate in a rigid but egalitarian political system based around age.

Omo National Park Enter the cultural and natural hotspot of Omo National Park and Omo Valley for the experience of a lifetime. It boasts one of the best wildlife concentrations in the country, established in 1966. Elevation, on average is around 500m above sea level, but Mountain Maji reaches a height of 1,541m. Rainfall is close to 810mm per annum, and the main wet season is from March to November.

Maximum temperature records can go as high as 40 degrees C in December and minimum temperatures from April to June are around 20 degrees C. The best time to explore the park is from December to February.

It is located 870km southwest of Addis Abeba, on the west bank of the Omo River in the South Omo Valley.

Visiting the various ethnic groups, wildlife viewing, and whitewater rafting can make any visit very adventurous. Mursi, Surma, Bodi, and Dizi live adjacent to the park. The park conserves one of the most diverse populations of mammalian species in Ethiopia. Wildlife includes waterbucks, bushbucks, elands, beisaoryxes, Burchell’s zebras, lelwel hartebeests, buffalos, tiangs (topises), giraffes, hippos, kudus, lions, and elephants. The Illilbai Hot Springs, located in the middle of the park, offer the opportunity to see diverse wildlife as they come to drink during the early mornings and evenings.

457

Southern Ethiopia

To get there you need to get a four-wheel drive, a good driver, and a local guide. The track from Jinka in the east to the edge of the Omo River is only accessible in the dry season (August to February). Another track, from Maji to Omo National Park in the west, is mostly used by Omo National Park vehicles and a few other adventurous visiting groups. You can camp in the park for accommodation.

Sheka Zone - Masha

Masha Town- is an administrative town of Sheka zone which is located in south west of Ethiopia with a distance of 676 km from Addis Abeba via Jimma and Bonga town. It is also about 305km from Jimma via Bonga town. The Masha town is surrounded by an evergreen forest.

The surrounding attractions include; - An amazing evergreen forest which is full of scenic and attractive water fall, hot springs , bird life & wild life, - Shekesheko waterfall and cave which is about 8km from Masha town on the main road with 40 minute walk by foot to the left and - The traditions of Shekicho, Sheko, Mezenger & kaficho people.

The Sheka Forest Biosphere Reserve – located in the western part of the

SNNPRS region, Sheka zone, and the 131,640 ha Sheka Forest Biosphere Reserve is part of the Southwest Highland Forests of Ethiopia. While contributing to the conservation of Afromontane forest vegetation, the biosphere reserve also shelters 50 species of mammals, 200 species of birds, 20 species of amphibians and over 300 higher plants.

Endemic species of more than 50 plants and 10 birds are also located within the reserve.

Honey produced within the forest is the major livelihood of the people of Sheka who are actively involved in the preservation and management of the forest resources through a traditional system called “Kobbo” under which members of the community take ownership of part of the forest to hang beehives and collect spices without disturbing the natural balance of the ecosystem.

Masha town is a good stop if you are headed to Bedele via Gore and Metu either back to Jimma or further up to Nekemte. You can also cross to Gambella from the next town of Gore.

Ethiopian Holidays Package TOUR NAME: Ethiopia North & South Combined TOUR CODE: EH-107 ITINERARY: Addis Ababa-Bahar Dar-Simien Mountain National Park-Lalibela-Axum-Arba Minch-Jinka-Mursi-Turmi Arba Minch-Addis Ababa DURATION: 16 nights and 17 days VALIDITY: December 31, 2015 Contact Info:- Email: Info@et-holidays.com, Tel: +251-116-184-360

458

Western Ethiopia

Western Ethiopia ------------------------------------------------- 457 Jimma ------------------------------------------------------------- 460 Jimma Aba Jiffar Museum 460 Jimma Aba Jiffar Museum 460 Sor Waterfalls 460, Nekemt ----------------------------------------------------------- 460 Wolega Museum 460 Gambella ---------------------------------------------------------- 461 Gambella National Park 461 Benishangul Gumuz --------------------------------------------- 462

West The western part of the country is still relatively wild, but not devoid of attractive historical and natural sites.

Western Ethiopia is a truly extraordinary place to visit with superb scenery and colorful culture, and yet undiscovered place of Ethiopia.

Between Jimma and Gambela, wild forests and vast coffee plantations shape the landscape. Major sights are the Jimma Museum and the former Palace of the Kaffa King Abba Jiffar city. The fascinating costumes, colorful ceremonies and celebrations, arts, crafts, music and dance of Gambela, and nearby Surma people along with the natural forests in the western part will take one’s breath away.

Western Ethiopia

Jimma

Jimma located 350km southwest of Addis Abeba and has the largest settlement in Western Ethiopia of the Oromia Regional State. It used to be the administrative capital of Kaffa, which is now in the Southern Region.

Jimma Aba Jiffar Museum

The only historical tourist attraction in the city is the Jimma Abba Jiffar Museum. It was once the palace of King Jiffar (1852 to 1933), who ruled the kingdom of Kaffa for long. The impressive palace, built by Abba Jiffar during the early years of his rule, was constructed at a cost of 400kg of gold and 65,000 Maria Teresa Thalers. It signifies colonial architecture, mainly because of the slave trade orchestrated by the kingdom.

The museum contains a private family mosque (still functional), and rooms that used to serve as a library, throne room, reception chamber, king’s guardroom, sentry tower, courthouse, and guesthouse.

There are also various caves, hot springs, and a hippo pond to visit around.

Sor Waterfall

It is a natural beauty, near Metu in Wolega. The Sor Waterfalls is a challenging drive from Becho, 13km from Metu. Visiting the Sor Waterfalls takes courage. A rough road must be traversed for 4.5km, and a very challenging walk ascending to the falls must follow, but this is well rewarded. The Sor Waterfalls are almost big enough to rival the Blue Nile Falls (Tis Abay). It is estimated that the height of the falls is 20m. The falls drop straight down at a 90-degree angle to a flat pool at the bottom, which is spectacular. It looks so intentional, almost manmade!

Nekemt

The former capital of the Wolega region, it lies about 200km west of Ambo or 330 km west of Addis Abeba. It is one of the most agriculturally productive areas of Ethiopia and has a considerable mineral wealth.

Wolega Museum

It is a major attraction in town, which displays a vast collection of Oromo artifacts, such as leatherwear, basketworks, woodcarvings, and musical instruments, as well as the first bible translated into the local Oromo language dialect. In the historic section, the museum contains several old firearms of the ancient local Oromo people and government heads including spears, gold painted shields, swords and utensils like silver spoons and forks, and many others.

From Nekemt you can cross to Bahir Dar using a 4x4 or you can also travel to Assosa the capital of the Benishangul region where the GERD (Great Ethiopian Renaissance Dam) is being built.

462

Gambella

Gambella

It is a westerly state, with hot, humid climate and swampy lowland lying at an altitude of 450m. Baro River and its tributaries, which flow to the Blue Nile, largely dominate Gambella. Gambella has two main ethnic groups, the Agnuak and the Nuer. The Agnuak speak a language close to the Luo in Kenya and they are tall and dark skinned.

Traditionally the Agnuak are fishermen and agriculturalists. The Nuer who are taller and dark skinned are thought to originate from Nilotic parts of Sudan. The Gambellas have strong historic, ethnic and climatic links with the neighboring Sudan. The main tourist attraction to be mentioned in the region is the Gambella National Park.

Gambella National Park

It is located 850km west of Addis Abeba in the center of Gambella Regional State between the rivers Baro and Gilo. You can get there by road or air.

It was established as a protected area in 1973 to conserve a diverse assemblage of wildlife and unique habitats. It is the largest protected area in the country. The general landscape is flat, and the average altitude is around 500m above sea level. The climate is hot and humid. The annual mean temperature is with a minimum and maximum of 20.4 and 34.8 degrees C, respectively. The wet season extends from May to October. This is a truly tropical region, which hosts the second largest animal migration after the Serengeti. It is advisable to visit the park from December until May. And you can visit daily from 7:00am to 12:30pm and 3:00pm to 6:30pm.

Wildlife in the area include the white-eared kob, Nile lechwe, buffalo, giraffe, tiang (topi), waterbuck, roan antelope, zebra, bushbuck, Abyssinian reedbuck, warthog, hartebeest, elephant, hippopotamus, and Nile crocodile. The park has at least 300 bird species, including 11 Sudan-Guinea Biome species. Birdlife in the area include redthroated and green bee-eaters, shoebill stork, and long-tailed paradise whydah.

463

Western Ethiopia

Benishangul Gumuz

Benishangul Gumuz A brief description of a trip to Benisahngul Gumuz Region with Ethiopian Quadrants PLC Assosa is the capital of Benishangul Gumuz in the western part of Ethiopia. Experience the unique and diversified culture, the beautiful and stunning landscape and view very closely the major tributaries of the Blue Nile River with the pioneer tour operator in the route – Ethiopian Quadrants PLC. Upon completion in the near future, the Ethiopian Great Renaissance Dam will be the principal tourist site in the country in general and in the region in particular. We assist you travel through Gojam and Agaw areas; and get back to Addis Abeba via the highlands of Wollega with abundant forest coffee.

For more information, contact Ethiopian Quadrants PLC with the following addresses:

Ethiopian Quadrants PLC To the four corners of the country P.O Box1021, Code1250 Addis Abeba, Ethiopia Tel: (251) 011 5157990, 011 5544635/6 Fax: (251) 11 554 66 44 E mail: ethiopianquadrants@gmail.com ethiopianquadrants@ethionet.et.

Web: www.ethiopianquadrants.com

464

465

Useful Numbers

Cutural Institutions Aliance Ethio-Française

Tel: +251 111550213

Area: Piazza, near Habte Giorgis bridge

British Council

Tel: +251 116620388

Area: Shola, British Embassy

Department of Fine Arts and Design

Tel: +251 111232834

Area: Addis Abeba University

French Center of Ethiopian Studies

Tel: +251 111234767/68

Area: Casanchis

Goethe Institute

Tel: +251 111242345/46

Area: Sidist Kilo AAU

Instiute of Ethiopian Studies

Tel: +251 11119469

Area: Sidist Kilo AAU

Italian Cultural Institute

Tel: +251 11113655

Area: Piazza, Italian School

Russian Center For Science and Culture Tel: +251 11551343

Area: Piazza, opposite Cathedral School

Gebrekristos Desta Center

Area: Sidist Kilo AAU

Tel: +251 11121469

Useful Numbers

Cinemas

Alem Cinema Tel: +251 116636717 Area: Bole, Alem Bldg.

Ambassador Theater Tel: +251 115537637 Area: Ambassador Cinema Empire Tel: +251 11 156 5029 Area: Piazza Embilta Tel: +251 11 275 8787 Area: Enkulal Fabrika Kafdem Cinema Area: Kality Matti Multiplex Tel: +251 116616278 Area: Edna Mall

ETC call center & directory – 994 EEPCo – 905 Fire Brigade – 939 Federal Police – 911 Federal Police Commission – 916 Police Information – 911

Theaters Candle Theater

Commercial Bank of Ethiopia – 951

Red Cross – 907

Tel: +251 111556515 Area: Piazza

Internet

Children & Youth Theater Tel: +251 111225944 Area: Arat Kilo City Hall

Tel: +251 111119820 Area: Piazza

Hager Fikir Theater

Tel: +251 111110644 Area: Piazza

National Theater

Tel: +251 115158225 Area: Biherawi

Ras Theater

Tel: +251 112751060 Area: Mercato

Dialup, broadband, and wireless Internet connections are available from ETC. There are plenty of Internet cafes. Some cafes and public places have Wi-Fi.

Hospitals In Addis Abba Shopping Centers Bole International Hospital Phone number 1. Getu Commercial Center Airport Banks Addis cardiac hospital +251 116634720 2. D.H Geda Tower with ATMs Bethezata hospital

+251 115527100

3. TK International Bldg.

Commercial Bank of Ethiopia,

Bethel hospital

+251 113495475

4. Kurtu International Bldg.

Dashen Bank, Wegagen Bank,

Black lion hospital

+251 115511211

5. Adams Pavilion Bldg.

Zemen Bank, Nib International

Dej. Balcha hospital

+251 115513205

6.Edna Mall Mati Multiplex

Bank and United Bank.

Girum hospital

+251 112757676

7. A.A Exhibition Center

Bank Branches in major cities out

Hayat hospital

+251 116624488

8.Yoly Building

of Addis Abeba also have ATMs.

Kadisco hospital

+251 116298902

9. Bambis Shopping Center

MCM ( ethio- korea)

+251 116295427

10.Dembel Shopping Mall

TZNA hospital

+251 113711208

11. Friendship City Center 12. Holy City Center

Area Codes

Phone Code

011 – Addis Abeba, Ambo, Debre Sina, Debrezeit, Guder, Fitche.

The country code is 251. International calls

022 - Nazareth, Meki, Mojo, Wonji

can be made by dialing 00 followed by the

025 – Diredawa, AseBetferi, Godie, Harrar, Jijiga

country code and the number. Calls to other

033 – Dessie, Lalibela, Woldia

regions of Ethiopia are made by dialing the

034 – Tigrai

area code before the number. For local

046 - Shashemene

rectory assistance, call 999, and 998 for inter-

047 – Jimma

national operator.

058 – Bahir Dar, Debre Markos, Gondar

466

fdi-

Diplomatic Missions In Ethiopia Algeria Tel: +251 11 371 9666, +251 11 320 5757 Angola Tel: +251 11 618 0771,+251 11 618 0764 Austria Tel: + 251 11 371 2144, +251 11 371 0052 +251 11 371 2580 Australian Tel: +251 11 552 3320 Belgium Tel: +251 11 661 1643, +25111 661 1813 +251 11 662 1291, +251 11 662 3420 Benin Tel: +251 11 372 2605/06 Botswana Tel: +251 11 371 5422 Brazil Tel: +251 11 662 0401,+251 11 662 0403 Bulgaria Tel: +251 11 661 0032 Burkina faso Tel: +251 11 661 5863,+251 11 661 5864 Burundi Tel: +251114 65 13 00,+251 11 465 5547 Cameroon Tel: +251 11 550 4487/88/89 Canada Tel: +251 11 371 3022 Chad Tel: +251 11 372 0315 China Tel: +251 11 371 1960 Democratic republic ofcongo Tel: + 251 11 372 5887 Republic of congo Tel: +251 11 663 3200,+251 11 663 8621/23 Côte d’ivoire Tel: +251 11 371 2658 Cuba Tel: +251 11 626 0641, +251 11 626 3615 Czech republic Tel: +251 11 551 6132, + 251 11 551 6382 Denmark Tel: +251 11 618 7075,+251 91 125 5587 Djibouti Tel: +251 11 661 3200,+251 11 661 3006 Egypt Tel: +251 11 122 6422 Equatorial guinea Tel: +251 11 662 6278,+251 11 663 7424, +251 11 651 2659 EUROPEAN (uniondelegation of the European Unionto Ethiopia) Tel:+ 251 11 661 2511 EUROPEAN (uniondelegation to the African Union) Tel: +251 11 416 3700 Finland Tel: +251 11 320 5920

France Tel: +251 11 140 0000 Gabon Tel: +251 11 661 1075,+251 11 661 1090 Gambia Tel: +251 11 895 9258 Germany Tel: +251 11 123 5162 ,+251 11 123 5153 Ghana Tel: +251 11 371 1402, +251 11 653 4434 Greek Tel: +251 11 465 4911 ,+251 11 465 4912 Guinea Tel: +251 11 465 1308 India Tel: +251 11 123 5538/39/40/41 Indonesia Tel: +251 11 371 2104 Iran Tel: +251 11 372 7600 Ireland Tel: +251 11 518 0500 Israel Tel: +251 11 646 0999,+251 11 646 1953 Italy Tel: +251 11 123 5684/5,+251 11 123 5717 Japan Tel: +251 11 551 1088 Kenya Tel: +251 11 661 0033 Korea Tel: +251 11 663 7430 Republic of korea Tel: +251 11 372 8111/12/13/14 Kuwait Tel: +251 11 661 5411/12, +251 11 662 4442, + 251 11 661 6502 (Ambassador direct) Lesotho Tel: +251 11 661 4368/9, +251 11 661 2828 Liberia Tel: +251 11 551 3655, + 251 91 123 7799(Mob.) Libya Tel: +251 11 551 1077/78 Luxembourg Tel: +251 11 661 6780 Madagascar Tel: +251 11 646 0624 Malawi Tel: +251 11 662 0295 Mali Tel: +251 11 416 8990/91 Mauritania Tel: +251 11 372 9165, +251 11 372 7633 Mauritius Tel: +251 11 661 5997 Mexico Tel: +251 11 647 9555,+251 11 646 1479 Morocco Tel: +251 11 553 1700, +251 11 550 8440

467

Mozambique Tel: +251 11 663 3811/12 Namibia Tel: +251 11 661 1966 Netherlands Tel: +251 11 371 1100,+251 91 151 3658 Niger Tel: +251 11 465 1305, +251 11 465 1175 Nigeria Tel: +251 11 155 0644 Norway Tel: +251 11 371 0799 Pakistan Tel: +251 11 618 8392/3 Palestine Tel: +251 11 372 2592 Poland Tel: +251 11 157 4189/90 Portugal Tel: +251 11 552 6899 Romania Tel: +251 11 661 0156 Russia Tel: +251 11 661 2060, +251 11 661 1828 Rwanda Tel: +251 11 661 0300,+251 11 661 0357 S.AD.R. Tel: +251 11 371 8666 Saudi arabia Tel: +251 11 442 5643,+251 11 442 5647 Senegal Tel: +251 11 661 1376 Serbia Tel: +251 11 551 7804 Sierra leone Tel: +251 11 371 0033 Slovakia Tel: +251 11 645 0849 Somalia Tel: +251 11 660 4384 South africa Tel: +251 11 371 1002, +251 11 371 1017, +251 11 371 7186 South Sudan Tel: +251 11 552 2636 Spain Tel: +251 11 122 2544 Sudan Tel: +251 11 551 6477 Sweden Tel: +251 11 518 0000 Switzerland Tel: +251 11 371 1107,+251 11 371 0577 Swaziland Tel: +251 11 626 3703/04 Tanzania Tel: +251 11 663 4353 Togo Tel: +251 11 320 6515,+251 11 320 1949 Tunisia Tel: +251 11 661 2063,+251 11 662 1840

468

Turkey Tel: +251 11 661 2321,+251 11 661 3161 Uganda Tel:+ 251 11 551 3088,+251 11 551 3531 Ukraine Tel:+ 251 11 661 1698 ,+251 11 662 1288, +251 91 125 4106 United arab emirates Tel:+ 251 11 320 3680,+251 11 320 3683 +251 11 320 3684 United kingdom Tel:+ 251 11 661 2354 United states of america Tel:+ 251 11 130 6000 Venezuela Tel:+ 251 11 646 7440,+251 11 646 7441 Yemen Tel:+ 251 11 371 2204,+251 11 371 1811 Zambia Tel:+ 251 11 371 1302 Zimbabwe Tel:+251 11 661 3877,+251 11 663 3767 +251 11 663 3768

Ethiopian Diplomatic Missions Abroad Abidjan - Cote D’ivoire Chancery Address: Immeuble Nour-Al Hayat 8th Floor-Plateau Tel: (00-225) 20 21 33 65 Abuja-Nigeria Address:Plot No. 332 Cadastral Zone AO, Mission Road, Central Area, Garki, Abuja Tel: 0023494618649, 0023494618643, 0023494618641 Accra - Ghana Address: No. 2 Milne Close Off Dr. Amilcar Cabral, Road Airport Residential Area Tel: 00233-21-77 59 28, 00233-21- 76 56 82 Ankara- Turkey Address: G.O.P Resit Galip Cad. Gokcek Sok. No. 11, Tel: (90 312) 436 04 00, (60 312) 448 19 27 (Ambassador Office) Beijing - China Addres: No. 3, Xiu Shui Nan Jie, Jian Guo Men Wai, Beijing 100600 ,People’s Republic of China Tel: (008610)-6532-5258, 6532-5318 Berlin - Germany Address: Boothstrasse 20a, 12207 Berlin Tel: (0049 30) 77 206-0 Brussels - Belgium Address: Avenue de Tervuren 231,1150 Brussels Tel: 0032-2-771 32 94 Cairo - Egypt Address: Mesaha Square, Villa 11, Dokki Tel: (00202) 3353693-3353696, 3355958-3355937

Dakar - Senegal Address: Boulevard de la Républic No. 18-ler Etage Tel: 00221-338219896 Djibouti - Djibouti Address: Bvld. Marechal Foch Tel: (00253) 35.07.18 Dublin-Ireland Address:1-3 Merrion House, Fitzwilliam Street Lower, Dublin 2 Tel: 003531 6787062, 6787063, 6787067 Harare - Zimbabwe Address: 14, Lanark Road Belgravia Tel: (263-4) 70 15 14 (263-4) 70 15 15 Havana - Cuba Tel: 005372069982 Ciudad de la Habana, Cuba Juba - Southern Sudan Address: Atlabara Tel: 00211-077455566 Kampala - Uganda Address: Off Kira Road, Plot No. 3L, Kampala Tel: 00256-41-348340/ 00256-41-341881 Khartoum - Sudan Address: Near Farouq Cemetry, Plot No. 04, Block 384BC, Tel: (00249-183) 47-11-56//47-13-79 Khartoum South Tel: (00249-183) 47-11-56/47-13-79 Kuwait-Kuwait Address: Kuwait,Jabriya, Block 10, Street 107, Villa No. 30, Tel: (00965) 5330128, 5334291, 0096596607545 London – UK Address:17 Princes Gate London, SW7 1PZ Tel: 440207838 3888 /02075897212 Moscow – Russian Federation Address: Orlovo-Daviovsky Per. 6 Tel: 007495-6801616/6801676 Nairobi – Kenya Address: State House Avenue Tel: 00254-2-2732057 New Delhi-India Address: 7/50-G, Satya Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi - 110 021 Tel: (0091 11) 26119513, 26119514, 24675367 Paris - France Address: 35, Avenue Charles Floquet 75007 Paris Tel: 0033147838395, 0033147832339 Delegation of the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia to the UNESCO Paris - France Address:1 Rue Miollis, Paris 75015 Tel: 0033145683462 Pretoria - South Africa Address: 47 Charles Street, Bailey’s Muckleneuk.

Tel: (0027)123464067,(0027)12 3463542 Rome - Italy Address: Via Andrea Vesalio, 16-18 ,00161 Rome, Italy

Tel: 0039 (06) 44 161 6307, 0039 (06) 44 161 6312 Riyadh - Saudi Arabia Address: Diplomatic Quarter Tel: 0096614823919/4824055/4824056/4803762/4 803752 Sana’a - Yemen Address: Al-Hamadani St. Sana’a Tel: (009671) 208833, 211208 Stockholm - Sweden Address: Lojtnantsgatan 17, Tel: 0046-8-6656030 Korea-Seoul Address: 258-6 1taewon-dong, Yougsan-gu Seoul, Republic of Korea, Tel: 02-780-9766 Aviv-Israel Address: 48 Menahem Begin St., Bldg. B. Fl. 8B Tel Aviv 66184, Tel: 972-3- 6397831/2 Tokyo - Japan Address: 3-4-1, Takanawa, Minato-Ku, Takanawa Kaisei Bldg. 2FI. Tokyo 108-0074 Tel: 0081 3 5420-6860/10081 3 5420-4806 Washington - USA Address: 3506 International Drive, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008 Tel: 011-202-364-1200 PERMANENT REPRESENTATIONS Geneva - Switzerland Address: 56, rue de Moillebeau, 1211 Geneva 19, Switzerland Tel: (41-22) 919 70 10/16 New York - U.S.A. Address: 866 Second Avenue, Third Floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: (212) 421- 1830 CONSULATES Beirut - Lebanon Address: Rond Point Tayouneh-Byhum Str. Zein Building, 1st Floor.

Tel: 009611388921, 1388923, 1388786 Dubai - United Arab Emirate Address: Villa No.1 Street No.6 Community:132 A/Wuheida Deira Tel: +971-4-2699111 Frankfurt - Germany Address: Mendelssohn Str. 51 Tel: 00496997269626/30/21 Jeddah - Saudi Arabia Address: Al Andlous Dist. Soliman Mosque St. Villa No.18, Tel: (009662) 6653444, 6653320, 6653622, 6653539, 6650450, 6650520 Los Angeles- California Address: Consulate General of Ethiopia, 3460 Wilshire Blvd. Suite, 308, Los Angeles, CA 90010 Tel: (213) 365-6651 Direct

469

COMMERCIAL MISSION Hargeisa - Somaliland Address: Sha’abka area Tel: 002522139071 Guangzhou-China Address: Room No. 810 Grand Tower No.228 Tianhe Road, Guangzhou -Chain Mumbai-India Address: office No. 1019/20, 10th floor, Maker Chamber V, 221, Nariman Point Mumbai-400 021, India Tel: +912222021607, +912222024652 HONORARY CONSULATES Athens - Greece Address: 253 Sigrou Avenue officeTel: 01-0-940 3483,01-0--943 0922 Cellular Tel: 0932 204150 Bangkok - Thailand Address: 954/32 Suite 406 ,Prannok Plaza, Bangkok 10700 Thailand.

Office Tel: 0-2583 3993, 0-2583 5995 Budapest-Hungary Address: P.O.Box: 1048 Budapest Szekpatak ut.24 Foldszint 1 Tel: 00361-3808654, Mob. 00363037331977 Colombo - Srilanka Address:139, Mihindu Mawatha,Colombo 12, Sri Lanka Tel: 011- 2330734, Residence Address : N/A Denmark Address : Grøennemosevej 6, DK-5700 Svendborg, Denmark, Office Tel: +45 62 199100 Dhaka - Bangladesh Office Address: Nirala Bhavan, 9/A, Toyenbee Circular Road (2nd Floor) Maximization, Motijheel C/A Dhaka-1000, Bangladesh OfficeTel: 0880-2-9551477, Cellular Tel:0189412754 Dusseldorf - Germany Kasernenstr. 1 B 40213 Duesseldorf, Germany Office Tel:0049 211 84800 Helsinki-Finland Address: Saboure Int. Trading Co. Apollonkatu 3C, FI-00100 Helsinki Office: Tel +358 (0) 968712780 Hong Kong-China Address: UN123-24F Block B Focal Industrial, Center 21 Man Lok Street, HunQhom Kowloon, Hong Kong Office Tel: 00852-23339345 Houston - USA Address: 9301 Southwest Freeway, Suite 250 Houston, TX 77074 office Tel: 713-271-7567 Direct Tel: 713-271-7828 Istanbul - Turkey Address: Nuripasa Cad. 84/2, Oregor Ishani, Freahevler/ Tarabya, 80880 Istanbul Office Tel: 0090 (212) 299 11 20

470

Karachi - Pakistan Address: D3 KDA Scheme No. 1 Karachi-75730, Pakistan Tel: (0092-21) 431636, 7008558, 8396271 Cellular Tel: 00-92-300-8232235 Kuala Lumpur-Malaysia Address: Menara KLH, Business Center, No.2, Jalan Kasipillai, off Jalan 1 Poh, 51200 , Kuala Lumpur officeTel: 00603-23811170 Lisbon - Portugal Address: Av.D.Vasco da Gama,no 29, 1400 Lisboa, Portugal, Office Tel: 00351-1-303 13 80 Cellular Tel: 351-96-801 86 49 Malmo - Sweden Address: Master Nilsgatan 1, Box 6172, SE-200 11 Malmo, Sweden, Office Tel:+ 46 40 233024 Mexico Address: Priv. de Manchester No. 12 Col. Juarez, 06600 Mexico, D.F. Mexico City, Mexico Office Tel: 52 55 55 33 14 40 Melbourne - Australia Address: 156 George Street, Fitzroy, Victoria, Australia 3056, Office Tel: 61 3 9417 3419 (internat’l) or 03 9417 3419 (Australia) or 1548 (Australia) Milan-Italy Address: Via G.Leopardi 28, 20123 Milan, Italy Office Tel: 0039 (02) 439 01 93 Oslo - Norway Address: Barwil, Strandveien 2C, 224,1366 Ysaker Seattle - USA Address: World Trade Center 2200 Alaskan Way, Suite 200, Seattle, WA 98121 Office Tel: 206-364-6401 Singapore Address: 23 Chin Bee Avenue, Singapore 619943 Office Tel: (65)2621233 Zurich - Switzerland Address: Neugut 89, 8304 ,Wallisellen, Switzerland Office Tel: 0041-1/839 41 41

Index Of Advertisers SPECIAL ADVERTISERS Bekele Abshiro plc/ Life Fitness (Book Mark and Shopping Divider Reverse) Born Free Foundation Ethiopia 82 Commercial Bank of Ethiopia (Back Cover) Ethiopian Airlines 308, Back Inside Cover Ethiopian Holidays 59, 60, 315, 317, 332, 376, 383, 390, 403, 456 Ethiopian Quadrants Plc 324, 378, 394, 462 MAZ Trading 26 Moha Soft Drinks S.c (PEPSI) 181 Nyala Insurance 41,53,277 Paradise Ethiopia Travel 347 Tasty Foods PLC/ Joly Jus (Book Mark) Yeabzer Gemstones Gallery 254 Yoye Two 7112 HOTELS & HOTEL APARTMENTS Adama German Hotel 163 Addis Regency Hotel 134 Afomia Pension 446 Aman Hotel 338 Belle Vue Hotel and Spa 116 Bete Abraham Hotel/Inn 336 Brana Hotel 372 Broadway Hotel 136 Canaan International Hotel 364 Capital Hotel and Spa 125 Central Hawassa Hotel 412 CNET Technology Group 114 Diplomat Furnished Apartments 123 Dire Dawa Ras Hotel 387 Edna Addis Hotel 135 Emmad Furnished Hotel (Accomdation Divider) Gondar Landmark Hotel 321 Hawassa Lake View Hotel 414 Hilton Addis Abeba 117 Homland Hotel 314 Hotel Concord 126 Lalibela Hotel 338 Mahlet Hotel 448 Monarch Hotel 128 Nexus Hotel 131 Oasis International Hotel 417 Quara Hotel-Gondar 320 Radisson Blu Hotel 124 Ras Amba Hotel 130 Red Rock Lalibela Hotel 337 Reliance Hotel Apartment 120-121 Remhai Hotel 373 Selam Blue Bird Hotel 388 Seven Olives Hotel 336 SOLO TE Hotel 129 South Star International Hotel 415 Teatas Hotel 164 The Arck Hotel 133 The Residence Suite Hotel 127 Tourist Hotel & Restaurant 445 United Africa Group 414 Yabello Motel 27 Yamare Hotel 416 Yimreha Hotel 336

Yoly Addis Hotel 132 Zan-Seyoum Hotel 339 Zeist Lodge 122 GUEST HOUSES Dayonz Guest House 151 Geez Michu Guest House 147 Getenet Guest House 146 Hagsam Guest House 144 Hamonah Guest House 149 Kerod Pension 150 Nigist Towers Guest House 147 Rigel Guest House 142 Solmile Family Guest House 145 Villa Des Anges Guest House 143 Yaat Guest House 148 LODGE AND RESORTS Agoro Lodge 363 Asham Africa 161 Awash Falls Lodge 381 Dreamland Hotel and Resort 162 Eco-Omo Safari Lodge 428 Etalem Resort 160 Haile Resort 413 Paradise Lodge 423 RESTAURANTS, PIZZERIA, FAST FOOD, COFFEE SHOPS, PASTRY & BAKERY Aarabon Recreation Center Plc 204 Aladdin Mediterranean Restaurant 208 Amsterdam Bar & Restaurant 198 Andinet Café & Restaurant 447 Ari Rang Korean Restaurant 207 Backyard Restaurant & Wine Bar 193 Bagel Corner Café 231 Beefmn Garden 361 Ben Abeba Restaurant 339 Bole Mini 220 Café Limmu 229 Café Tuba 228 Canaan Restaurant & Pizzeria 202 Capital Hotel & Spa 196 China Paradise Restaurant 186 CNET Technology Group 178 (Page Before Restaurant Divider) Cork Wine Bar & Restaurant 201 Desalech Kitfo and Traditional Hall 192 Di Napoli Restaurant 206 Dove Café 362 Enrico Pastry 226 Ero Shake Juice 214 Four Seasons Japanese Restaurant 194 Green View Restaurant 211 Hebir Ethiopia Traditional Restaurant 188-189 Hilton Addis Ababa 197 Hilton Addis Ababa 231 Jewel of India Restaurant 205 Kaldi’s Coffee 223 Lem Café, Bar & Restaurant 446 Lucy Lounge & Restaurant 199 Mar Amusement Park 360 Mulmul Bakery 225 My Burger 213

471

Natani Café & Restaurant 230 Rainbow Korean Restaurant 207 Rigel Bakery 221 Rigel Restaurant 203 Road Runner Bar & Restaurant 202 Rooftop Restaurant 180 (Restaurant Divider Reverse) Roomi Burger 212 Sanaa Restaurant 210 Sangaam Indian Restaurant & Bar 205 Santorini Greek Restaurant 194 Sichuan Chinese Restaurant 187 South Rift Valley Bar & Restaurant 209 Spirits Ice Cream 228 The City Stop(Capital Hotel) 227 The Garden Court(Hebir) 190-191 To.Mo.Ca 224 Top View 200 Variety Restaurant & Café 203 Verres en Vers(Radisson Blu Hotel) 195 Yod Abyssinia Cultural Restaurant 192 Yummy Pizza 211 NIGHT LIFE Black Rose 241 Club H2o 239 Hilton Addis Ababa 243 Jazzamba Lounge 238 Lucy Lounge & Restaurant 241 Skyline Lounge (Capital Hotel) 240 Stockholm Bar & Restaurant 234 (Night Life Divider Reverse) Stockholm Elegance Lounge 235 (Page After Night Life Divider) SHOPPING Abbafany Meat Products 266 Abrham Gizaw Tent Work 265 Abyssinia Fine Arts & Training Center 256 Aida Beauty Classic Spa 269 Anbessa Shoe 244 (Page Before Shopping Divider) Ayni’s Design 256 Capital Hotel & Spa 270 Commercial Bank of Ethiopia (Back Cover) Cork Wine Bar & Art Gallery 259 Dayi’s Day Spa 271 DH Geda Tower 261 Dondoor Handcrafts 249 Elmika Photo Studio 272 Eve Beauty & Spa 275 Eyob Demisse Tent Work & Rental 264 Fana Beauty Salon 272 Floral Images 260 Geni Artisanal 257 Habesha Art Studio 258 Herbal Beauty Care 274 Hilton Addis Ababa 276 Kibriye Dejene Silver & Gold Jewellery 259 Le Chateau Plc 266 Life Fitness 246 (Shopping Divider Reverse) Mafi City Mall 247(Shopping After Divider) Nabe Leather Craft 251 Novis Supermarket 262 Nyala Insurance 41,53,277

472

Prime Food Products 267 Rainforest Day Spa(Radisson Blu) 273 Sabana Beach Spa 268 Safeway Supermarket 263 Salem’s Design 251 St.George Gallery 245 (Shopping Divider) Tulsi Massage 274 Yeabzer Gemstones Gallery 254 Yefikir Design 255 Yehabeshawa Design 258 Yeheyis Dejene Gold & Silver Smith 253 TOUR AND TRAVEL, CAR RENTALS, AIR LINES, PRIVATE AIR OPERATORS ABC Car Rental 279 (Tour and Travel Divider) Absolute Ethiopia Tours 293 Abyssinia Ballooning 306 African Adventure Tours 296 Amran Ethiopia Tour & Travel 304 Ashenge Tour & Travel Agent 283 Asqual Tours & Travel Ethiopia 296 Boundless Ethiopia Tours 297 Bye Tour & Travel 298 Chapter Tour Operation 286 Discover Abyssinia Tours 300 Dynasty Ethiopia Tours 295 Egypt Air 307 Ethiopian Airlines 308, (Back Inside Cover) Ethiopian Holidays 59, 60, 315, 317, 332, 376, 383, 390, 403, 456 Ethiopian Quadrants Plc 324, 378, 394, 462 Ethiopian Tour Operator Asosatioan 282 Farangi Tours 290 Horizon Ethiopia Tours & Travel 298 Julian Tour & Travel Agent 291 Kadanuumuu Tour & Travel 287 Kamak Tour & Car Rental 292 Lalibela Travel & Tours 299 Lendo Tour, Travel & Car Rental 301 Magic Land Tours 301 Mela Travel & Tour 303 MJ Tour Operation & Travel Agent 302 National Airways 470 (Last Page) NTO Tour 278 (Tour and Travel Before Divider) Omo Tour & Car Rental 300 Paradise Ethiopia Travel 347 Pathfinder Tour 285 Pharez Ethiopia Tour Operator 302 Rainbow Car Rental & Tour 305 Red Jackal Tour Operator 284 Scarmak Business Plc 288 Selam International Travel & Tours 293 Society of Tour Operators in Addis Ababa 282 Taitu Tour & Travel 294 Tedy Tour & Travel Services 295 Tek Tours 299 Travel Ethiopia 289 Turkish Airline 280 (Tour and Travel Divider Reverse) Unique Car Rent 303 Walk In Ethiopia Tour,Tavel & Car Rental 297 Wondu Tours Enterprise 289 Yoye Two 7 112

References - Twenty one Day Trips From Addis Ababa, p.p. 11-12, The Ethiopia ‘Heritage Trust, 1997 - Important Bird Areas of Ethiopia ,EWNHS, 1996 - Claire Spottiswoode,Merid Gabremichael and Julian Francis, Where to Watch Birds In Ethiopia, Christopher Helm, 2010 - David Vo Van & Mohammed Jami Guleid, Harar, a Cultural Guide, Shama Books, 2007 - Amhara Culture, Tourism & Parks Dev’t Bureau, Discover Amhara,2011 - Ethiopian Church Treasures & Faith, Ethiopian Tewahido Church, 2009 - John Graham, Exploring Ethiopia, Shama Books, 2008 - Sidama Zone Trade & Industry Bureau, Discover Sidama, 2009 - Hawassa, The SNNPRS Culture & Tourism Bureau - Milena Batistoni, A Guide to Lalibela,Arada Books,2011 - Sidama Zone Culture,Tourism & Government Affairs Department, Visit Sidama, 2013 - Derek L Clark,An Introduction to the Natural History of Nech Sar National Park, EWNHS, 2010 - Di Salvo, Mario, Churches of Ethiopia,The Monastery of Narga Selassie Skira, 1999 - Pankhurst, Richard, History of Ethiopian Towns from the Middle Ages to the early 19th Century, Wiesbaden, 1982 - Pankhurst, Richard, Social History of Ethiopia, Institute of Ethiopian Studies, 1990 - Pankhurst,Richard, The Ethiopian Borderlands, Red Sea Press, 1997 - Ministry of Culture & Tourism, Ethiopia: A Tourist Paradise

Websites - www.eic.gov.et , Ethiopian Investment Commission - www.ethiopianairlines.com , Ethiopian Airlines - www.mfa.gov.et , Ministry of Foreign Affairs - www.fzs.org , Frankfurt Zoological Society - www.balemountains.org , Bale Mountains National Park

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from readers, travelers; it will help us make our next edition better. Our team reads every word of your comment and tries its best to work on what it lacks for the next edition.

To send us any comments or updates visit our website: guidetoethiopia.com/contact. You can also review the hotels in which you get information from us and used their services while surfing their page on our website: ethiopianhoteldirectory.com so that it will help them to improve their services.

You can also get our books online.

Many thanks to the travelers and our readers who used the previous edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes. Hope you’ll do the same on this edition.

473

474

475