Lunds and Byerlys REAL FOOD Spring 2016

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Lunds and Byerly’s real food spring 2016

Lunds & Byerlys



















Tour of Asia A culinary journey across this intriguing continent

volume 12 number 1



CELEBRATE CITRUS: Sweets with a splash of sunshine BEYOND BURRITOS: Tortillas from breakfast to dessert WEEK OF MEALS: The key to homemade weeknight dinners




At Marvin, we are committed to creating distinctive, beautiful products that continually elevate the standard of quality and innovation. Our windows and doors are an investment you will value for many years to come. Contact your local Marvin dealer today. M A RV I N D E S I G N G A L L E RY by Shaw/Stewart 645 Johnson St. NE Minneapolis, MN 55413 612-331-3128

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Hamel Building Center 18710 Hwy. 55 Plymouth, MN 55446 763-478-6601 MN LIC #BC631040 Hiawatha Lumber Co. 3233 E 40th St. Minneapolis, MN 55406 612-729-2358 Lampert Lumber Apple Valley – Lake Elmo North Branch – Northfield Rockford – St. Croix Falls 651-695-3600

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A Boy’s Acne Saved His Father’s Life! Top Doctor Making a Difference Board certified dermatologist Charles E. Crutchfield III, M.D., was treating 17-year-old Owen Claugherty’s skin when he noticed a funny looking mole on the arm of Owen’s dad. As a normal teenager, Owen was struggling with acne. So Steven Claugherty took his son into Dr. Crutchfield’s dermatology office for treatment. “As I was leaving the exam room, just out of the corner of my eye, I saw the father’s arm,” Dr. Crutchfield said. “He was putting a magazine back in the rack on the wall, and as he put his arm up, I briefly saw a dark spot.” Steven says he’s just lucky he made a bad choice of clothes on that visit to the doctor. “I happened to wear a short-sleeved shirt on a winter day,” he said. “I walked out of the room, and a little voice inside said, ‘You’d better go look at that mole on his arm.’ I thought to myself, ‘it’s really busy today, we are running behind schedule, and after all, it wasn’t even his appointment. I’ll make a note on the chart to look at it during his next Appointment,” Dr. Crutchfield said. “I started walking down the hall, and that little voice got louder: ‘Hey, I told you, go back in there and check it out.’” Steven said he hadn’t even noticed the changes in the mole on his arm, but Dr. Crutchfield couldn’t let it rest. Dr. Crutchfield re-entered the exam room and recommended he check out the spot. “Thanks, but I’m going back to work,’” Owen’s father said. Dr. Crutchfield gently but firmly stressed the importance of looking at the suspicious mole, so Owen

insisted his dad let Dr. Crutchfield examine it. As it turns out, Dr. Crutchfield performed a biopsy on it that very day. “Low and behold, a couple days later I got a call from the dermatopathologist, and she said, ‘It’s a thin melanoma. You caught it early. He is very lucky.’” Dr. Crutchfield explained. Melanoma makes up 90 percent of skin cancer deaths. Claugherty’s was caught so early, he just needed a minor excision and a few stitches. And it was all thanks to a few pimples. “He came in for his son’s acne and it ended up saving his life,” Dr. Crutchfield said. Steven Claugherty is feeling much better, but now he is checking his skin monthly for changing moles, employing sun protective techniques for himself and his family, and having a general medical exam yearly. He also plans to have Dr. Crutchfield check his skin on a regular basis.

PREVENT SKIN CANCER BY BEING “SUNSMART” Always apply broad-spectrum sunscreen with a sunburn protection factor (SPF) of 30 or greater to all exposed skin 30 minutes before sun exposure and reapply every one to two hours, more if either actively perspiring or swimming. Use sun protective clothing whenever possible. (Coolibar. com has great sun-protective clothing.) Dr. Crutchfield is the author of a children’s book on sun protection, Little Charles Hits a Home Run for Sun Safety, available on Dr. Crutchfield advises patients if they notice a mole changing in any way, size, color, shape or elevation, or if a spot bleeds and does not heal on its own in 3 weeks, they should bring it to the attention of their doctor. The rule is: “See Spot, See Spot Change, See a Dermatologist”. To see a complimentary video, visit

Charles E. Crutchfield III, MD, is a graduate of the Mayo Clinic Medical School and a Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota Medical School. Dr. Crutchfield is an annual selection in the “Top Doctors” issue of Mpls. St. Paul magazine. He is also the only dermatologist to have been selected as a “Best Doctor for Women” by Minnesota Monthly magazine since the inception of the survey. Dr. Crutchfield has been selected as one of the “Best Doctors in America,” an honor awarded to only 4% of all practicing physicians. Dr. Crutchfield is the co-author of a children’s book on sun protection and dermatology textbook. He is a member of the AΩA National Medical Honor Society, an expert consultant for WebMD and CNN, and a recipient of the THET I C AES Karis Humanitarian Award from the Mayo Clinic School of Medicine. L OF APPROVA L SEA

Crutchfield Dermatology • 1185 Town Centre Drive • Suite 101 • Eagan • 651-209-3600



763.717.8500 12955 Hwy 55, Plymouth, MN 55441

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Inspired by life.


The most delicious weekend of the year. 22ND ANNUAL






MARCH 4 • 6:30 – 9 PM An evening of gourmet cuisine paired with a remarkable selection of fine red wines showcasing the best from vineyards across the globe.

Sample food from some of the Twin Cities’ top restaurants and sip on fine wines, specialty craft beers, and more all in the warmth and comfort of the Metropolitan and Legends Clubs of Target Field. *Subject to availability



MARCH 5 & 6 • 1 – 5 PM








Attendees must be 21 years of age or older and present valid photo ID.

Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit


real food spring 2016

Features 20 Week of Meals The key to homemade meals is in your hands BY ROBIN ASBELL

32 Tour of Asia Explore signature flavors throughout the continent BY MARIE SIMMONS

42 Celebrate Citrus Citrus fruits add a splash of sunshine to sweets RECIPES BY CARLA SNYDER

46 Beyond Burritos Versatile tortillas from breakfast to dessert BY STEPHANIE ASHCRAFT AND DONNA KELLY

52 Ruth Reichl How her new cookbook saved this former Gourmet magazine editor-in-chief BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites A healthy dose of dairy BY LISA KINGSLEY

6 Kitchen Skills Techniques to temper and enjoy garlic BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Asparagus: Nutrient-rich, beloved spears BY MARY SUBIALKA

18 Healthy Habits Anti-inflammation cooking BY AMANDA HAAS

56 Pairings Fresh and fruity Vinho Verde BY MARY SUBIALKA

2 real food spring 2016


46 42

Our Cover

Miso and Shoyu Glazed Salmon with Lettuce and Edamame Salad with SesameMiso Dressing (page 40). Photographs by Terry Brennan

PUBLISHER Jamie Flaws EDIToR, cUSToM PUBLIcaTIonS tammy Galvin EDIToR mary subialka aSSocIaTE EDIToR lisa marchand aSSISTanT EDIToR aubrey schield SEnIoR aRT DIREcToR Jamie Johnson aRT DIREcToR mandy Finders GRaPHIc DESIGnER ben hartzell PRoDUcTIon PRojEcT ManaGER cindy markinG accoUnT ExEcUTIvE kelly wiebe EDIToRIaL InTERn rebecca lubecki

volume 12, number 1 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLc, 706 Second ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, Mn 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. all rights reserved. no part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLc. Printed in the USa.

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.


A Standing Ovation for Dairy Replace your morning sweet roll with this hearty and portable breakfast


acked with calcium, probiotics and other nutrients that promote a healthy body, dairy products have a rightful place as a staple in our diet. Not to mention, the milk, yogurt and cheeses that line the shelves of the dairy section likely originate at a local farm only a few miles away. The food group shines in Lisa Kingsley’s The Dairy Good Cookbook, which is a nod to dairy farmers throughout the country, as well as to the benefits of incorporating their products into everyday cooking. Organized according to a day in the life of a dairy farmer, this book takes a unique behind-the-scenes look at the men and women who provide one of the biggest staples in our refrigerators. Featured in the cookbook, these recipes for Triple Cheese-Veggie Rolls and a refreshing Orange Cream Chiller drink are prime examples of the many kitchen creations that can come from a healthy dose of dairy. — Aubrey Schield


Triple Cheese-Veggie Rolls MAKES 12 ROLLS

nonstick cooking spray cup shredded cheddar cheese cup shredded mozzarella cheese cup shredded Colby Jack cheese large eggs teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (13.8-ounce) tube refrigerated pizza dough flour, as needed ¾ cup chopped red, green, yellow or orange bell pepper 2 green onions, sliced 1⁄3 cup sliced black olives ¾ 1 ¾ 6 ½ ¼ 1

Orange Cream Chiller MAKES 2 SERVINGS

3 ounces frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed 1 cup milk ½ cup plain Greek yogurt 1 small frozen banana, or 3 frozen strawberries 1 teaspoon honey ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 1. Combine the orange juice concentrate, milk, yogurt, frozen banana, honey and vanilla in a blender. Blend on high until smooth. 2. Divide between two 12-ounce glasses. Serve immediately.

4 real food spring 2016

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a standard 12-cup muffin tin with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. 2. Combine the cheeses in a large bowl; set aside. Whisk the eggs with the salt and black pepper in a medium bowl. Spray a medium nonstick skillet with nonstick cooking spray. Pour the eggs into the skillet and cook over mediumlow heat, stirring frequently, until firm but still creamy, 3 to 5 minutes. 3. Roll out the dough on a floured surface to a 12-by-8-inch rectangle, about 1⁄8 inch thick. Scatter the cheeses evenly over the surface of the dough, leaving a ½-inch border around all edges. Spread the scrambled eggs evenly on top of the cheese. Scatter the bell pepper, green onions and black olives over the eggs. 4. Roll up the dough very tight from one long side. Brush water along the edge of the dough and pinch tightly to seal. Using a sharp serrated knife, cut the roll into 12 pieces, about 1 inch wide. Place the pieces, cut side up, in the prepared muffin cups. 5. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the dough is golden brown. Cool the rolls in the pan on a wire rack for 5 minutes. Remove from the pan and cool on a rack for 5 minutes before serving. ■



spring 2016 real food 5

kitchen skills

No Stinking Rose Techniques to tame garlic and enjoy its fabulous flavor BY JASON ROSS


arlic tends to make an impression. There’s a reason why it has been called “the stinking rose.” But it need not steal the show. It’s possible to use garlic in ways that hint at its bold flavor. Here are some techniques to balance the showier side of the clove with its more austere nature.

The Power of Salt, A Knife and Light Acidity Even a small amount of raw garlic can permeate and linger throughout a dish. When a recipe calls for raw garlic, consider employing this technique to mellow the intense bite. The idea is simple: Break down the garlic into a fine purée or “cream,” and use salt to help the process, drawing out moisture and softening the flavor. If the recipe calls for acidity, such as lemon juice in aioli or vinegar in vinaigrette, add it directly to the creamy garlic to aid in breakdown.

Gentle Roast With a Little Oil Something magical happens to slow-cooked garlic. The sting is muted, and the garlic softens with a rounded, full flavor. The great American chef James Beard used this technique in his most famous dish, chicken with 40 cloves of garlic. It might seem insane to use 40 cloves of garlic, but that is how subtle the flavor becomes. The idea is to coat the garlic in oil and then cover it while roasting, so it can steam until fully softened. This slow approach may be the best-kept secret to mellowing the character of the stinking rose.


6 real food spring 2016

Quick and Easy Creamy Garlic Aioli

Roasted Whole Garlic Heads


Roasted garlic is versatile. Spread it onto a warm baguette, use it to garnish a roast, or whip it into almost any purée, from mashed potatoes to creamy tomato soup.

1 ¼ 1 1 1 ¼ ¼ 2

clove garlic teaspoon salt teaspoon lemon juice teaspoon water pasteurized egg yolk cup vegetable oil cup olive oil teaspoons minced chives

1. Peel garlic and trim stem. Rock blade of a chef’s knife back and forth on a cutting board to roughly mince garlic. 2. Sprinkle salt over garlic. (It acts as an abrasive and draws out moisture and some bite.) 3. Now use the broad flat side of the chef’s knife, not the sharp edge, to finish pulverizing and creaming the garlic. Start by applying pressure with your fingers against the flat side of the knife, pushing the minced garlic across the cutting board. Next, scrape the garlic into a small neat pile with your knife, and repeat the process, pushing the flat side of the knife across the garlic, rubbing and pressing it across the cutting board. Scrape the garlic again into a neat pile and repeat the process until the garlic is smooth and creamy. It should take 5-10 passes, and may seem clumsy at first, but will become quick and easy with a little practice. Scrape garlic off cutting board into a medium mixing bowl. 4. Add lemon juice and water, and whisk together. Whisk in egg yolk until incorporated. 5. Combine oils in a liquid measuring cup with a spout. 6. Add oil to mixture a few drops at a time to start, vigorously whisking, until starting to become creamy. Next, pour oil in a steady stream, whisking, until oil is incorporated and mixture is smooth and creamy. Stir in chives and black pepper. 7. Use as a spread on sandwiches or a dip for vegetables. Store refrigerated in a covered container up to 7 days. Cook’s Note: If you don’t have time or the inclination to make it fresh, omit the oil and egg yolk and instead add the garlic-lemon mixture into ½ cup of your favorite mayonnaise and season with chives and black pepper.

4 2 1⁄2 1 ¼

whole bulbs garlic tablespoons olive oil teaspoon salt grind black pepper teaspoon dried rosemary

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. With a chef’s knife, trim garlic tops, exposing cloves. Leave root end intact and papery skins still on garlic head. The whole head will insulate garlic and slow the cooking process while starches soften and caramelize. 3. Place garlic heads, cut side up, on a sheet of foil large enough to hold all garlic. 4. Drizzle each bulb with oil, pouring it into cut garlic. The skin and root will act as a cup, holding in oil. 5. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and rosemary. Wrap foil around garlic and crimp to create an airtight pouch. 6. Place on a baking sheet and cook 40 minutes. Carefully open pouch to check garlic; it should be lightly caramelized, and soft and yielding like a baked potato. If garlic heads are not yet brown and soft, reseal pouch and cook up to 20 minutes. 7. Serve warm with a crusty baguette. Instruct guests to use a butter knife to push against individual cloves. Soft garlic will pop up and out of skins. Garlic can be served immediately but will hold heat surprisingly well in sealed pouch, up to 2 hours. For longer storage, squeeze warm garlic from head and store wrapped and refrigerated up to 7 days.

Garlic Oil MAKES 1 CUP

Sometimes you want just a touch of garlic. Garlic oil can be used for sautéing or in vinaigrettes, and will whisper garlic flavor instead of barking. 3 cloves peeled garlic 1 cup vegetable oil 1. Use side of knife to lightly crush garlic by pressing into a cutting board. 2. In a small saucepan over low heat, combine garlic and oil. Cook 15 minutes, until garlic is lightly browned. Remove from heat and let garlic sit in warm oil 15 minutes. 3. Strain garlic from oil. Store covered and refrigerated up to 7 days. ■


Here is a straightforward way to try creaming garlic into a zesty aioli.


CREAMY GARLIC AIOLI: PER SERVING: CALORIES 255 (250 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 4g); CHOL 45mg; SODIUM 150mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 1g

ROASTED WHOLE GARLIC HEADS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 100 (60 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 299mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 2g

spring 2016 real food 7


Robin Asbell

spreads the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to add special touches to dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains, with an emphasis on taste. Her latest book is The Whole Grain Promise, More Than 100 Recipes to Jumpstart a Healthier Diet and she is the author of Juice It!, Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat No Dairy All Delicious; The New Vegetarian; and Gluten-Free Pasta: More than 100 Fast and Flavorful Recipes with Low- and No-Carb Options.

Lara Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

8 real food spring 2016

Jason Ross

is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

Stephanie Ashcraft is the author of numerous cookbooks including the best selling 101 Things to do With a Cake Mix and is coauthor with Donna Kelly of 101 Things to do with a Tortilla. Raised near Kirklin, Ind., she received a bachelor’s degree in family science and a teaching certificate from Brigham Young University. For years, she taught cooking classes for Macey’s Little Cooking Theatre in Provo and Orem. She lives in Marana, Arizona, a suburb of Tucson, and appears on the local KOLD13’s morning news sharing money saving meal tips.

Marie Simmons

has created recipes and written food articles for dozens of magazines, including Food & Wine, Cooking Light, and Eating Well. For more than 15 years, she wrote a monthly column for Bon Appétit, as well as a weekly column for the Los Angeles Times Syndicate. She is the author of more than 20 cookbooks, including Fig Heaven, The Amazing World of Rice, Things Cooks Love, and her latest, Taste of Honey. She lives in Eugene, Ore. Photograph by Luca Travoto.

Tara Q. Thomas

intended to be a chef when she trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, but got sidetracked by wine. She’s been writing about it for nearly 20 years now, most prominently at Wine & Spirits Magazine, where she is Executive Editor. Author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics and a contributor to the forthcoming Oxford Companions to cheese and spirits, she also sits on the advisory panel for the International Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training Program. She lives in Brooklyn, N.Y., juggling a laptop and two small children—and still cooks nearly nightly, albeit for a smaller crowd.

Terry Brennan Donna Kelly

was born and raised in tortilla country—southern Arizona. Donna is a dedicated food fanatic and recipe developer, she’s the author of Quesadillas, French Toast, Virgin Vegan Everyday Recipes, 200 Appetizers, 101 Things to do with a Tortilla and 101 Things to do with Tofu. She currently lives in Provo, Utah.

is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”

Lunds & Byerlys welcome Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina 50th Street: 952-926-6833 France Avenue: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka Glen Lake: 952-512-7700 Highway 7: 952-935-0198 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 East Side: 651-735-6340 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222 Woodbury: 651-999-1200





ike many of you, I’ve been on a personal health and wellness journey in recent years. Along the way, I’ve found myself making better food choices on a more frequent basis. While I doubt I’ll ever completely give up some of my indulgent favorites such as kettle chips and mac and cheese, I am much more conscious about the food going into my body. Today, I’m just as likely to opt for kale chips and a turkey sandwich. I know there are even healthier options to choose from, but these incremental improvements have kept me on the journey to improving my overall health and wellness.

“Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.” —Hippocrates


FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400

CATERING 952-897-9800

REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson • 952-927-3663

STAY CONNECTED: Sign up for our e-newsletter at Download our app by texting LBAPP to 55955. Join our Text Club by texting DEALS to 55955.

I know I am far from alone in having a nutritional awakening in recent years. More and more of us are looking to consume foods that are nutrient dense and calorie sparse. You can see it in the significant and continued growth of organic and natural offerings and the increased consumption of those foods during the past 15 years. You can also see it in the frequent product reformulations manufacturers are undertaking to create products offering more nutritional value. As our culture’s perspective on the important relationship between food and health continues to evolve, we here at Lunds & Byerlys are also evolving to further meet your health and wellness needs.

We r e c e n t l y launched “Nourish” to help guide you on your health and wellness journey. At its core, Nourish is designed to provide you Tres with education Lund and inspiration to make food choices that fuel your daily tank of energy instead of depleting it (see story on pages 10–11). This education and inspiration comes to life in a number of ways, including weekly food demonstrations by our FoodE Experts, signs throughout our stores illustrating the health benefits of many foods, and an expansive section on our website, Nourish, filled with recipes and information highlighting food choices you can feel good about for you and your family. The guiding principle for Nourish is to help you “fall in love with feeling great.” Whether you’re already there or at a different point on the journey, we welcome the opportunity to be a key resource for you along the way. As always, we hope you continue to enjoy Real Food. Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO real food 9

Lunds & Byerlys nourish

Fall in Love with Feeling Great BY BEA JAMES, DIRECTOR OF NOURISH


n our information-saturated world, the conversation surrounding food has become confusing. But here at Lunds & Byerlys, we believe food doesn’t have to be complicated. In an effort to better help you (and us) navigate the wide variety of food choices, we want to introduce you to Nourish. Nourish is Lunds & Byerlys’ exclusive health and wellness direction that aims to guide you to learn how to feel great by making pure food choices. Nourish is not a diet—it’s a lifestyle that promotes eating real, whole foods with an emphasis on fresh, nutrient-dense ingredients and boosting as needed with vitamins, minerals and herbs. Nourish eating is simple. The secret? Eat foods in their natural state, and when your body needs more, work with your physician to determine the right vitamin and herbal boosts for your specific needs. The Nourish lifestyle choice ensures the ingredients are delicious, easy to recognize, and will actually accomplish what food is supposed to do—nourish you.

To “fall in love with feeling great” means you have a desire to nourish yourself so you can feel your best. Wherever you are on your own personal health and wellness journey, Nourish is here to further assist and inspire you in meeting your goals. Nourish provides you with healthy choices, delicious recipes and support on your journey toward falling in love with feeling great. And, it’s all right here at Lunds & Byerlys. Here are some of the areas where you can explore Nourish at Lunds & Byerlys. In our stores you’ll find several experts who can speak to the different components of Nourish. Our FoodE Experts host Nourish-related food demonstrations weekly and walk the aisles daily to help you expand your palate by exploring new foods. Similarly, our health and body care specialists hold demonstrations and collaborate with our pharmacists to provide information about boosting as needed with products such as essential oils, probiotics and vitamins. Also be sure to visit the produce department to meet our superfood experts—our produce managers—who are equipped to help you “eat the rainbow,” every day. As you walk through the store, you’ll see signs highlighting the health benefits of many foods and products. These signs tell the stories of superfoods, organic and natural foods, boosts and everything in between. Another great resource is our Nourish magazine, which features many of our organic and natural products. Each month the magazine offers educational health and wellness stories, delicious recipes, and more than 30 organic and natural products on promotion that are sure to get you excited about falling in love with feeling great. You can also look to our website for more information at You’ll find an impressive selection of Nourish recipes developed by our experienced natural food chefs, along with information highlighting food choices you can feel good about feeding yourself and your family. Welcome to Nourish. We’re excited to be a part of your journey to falling in love with feeling great.

Choose real food. Eat the rainbow.

Expand your palate.

Add a boost.

Choices so the food works for you, not against you.

Diversify naturally by exploring new foods.

Heal with vitamins, minerals and herbs for a concentrated nutrient boost.

10 real food spring 2016

Fresh superfoods provide optimum nutrition and profound flavors.

Lunds & Byerlys nourish

Nourish Avocado Shrimp Lettuce Bowl SERVES 6 ½ ¼ 1 3 ½ 3 2 ¼ 1/8 ½ ½ 1½ 3

lemon or lime teaspoon Lunds & Byerlys Sea Salt pound Lunds & Byerlys raw shelled and deveined shrimp tablespoons Spectrum Canola Mayonnaise cup coarsely shredded carrots tablespoons fresh lime juice teaspoons Thai Kitchen fish sauce teaspoon Lunds & Byerlys Hot Red Pepper Flakes teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon freshly grated or minced ginger teaspoon minced garlic cups diced avocado tablespoons (divided) Thai basil chiffonade (see note below) 1 head butter lettuce, washed and leaves separated

1. Fill a medium saucepan with 1 quart water. Squeeze the lemon or lime juice into the pan and add the lemon or lime half and sea salt. Bring to a boil and add shrimp. Bring to a boil again and then remove from heat allowing shrimp to sit and gently cook for 3 minutes until opaque in the center. Drain shrimp in a colander and run under cold water to cool quickly. Place in a bowl of ice water for a few minutes. Drain, dry with a paper towel, and chop shrimp into smaller bite-size pieces. 2. In a medium bowl, combine mayonnaise, carrots, lime juice, fish sauce, hot pepper flakes, pepper, ginger and garlic. Mix in shrimp. Just before serving add avocado and 2½ tablespoons basil (saving ½ tablespoon for garnish) to shrimp mixture and fold together. 3. On a flat surface, lay 6 lettuce leaves facing upward like a bowl, and fill each with approximately 3/4 cup of shrimp mixture. Garnish each with remaining basil. Tip: Shrimp mixture can be prepared and chilled a few hours in advance. Stir in the avocado and basil, and assemble right before serving.

Create harmony.

Experts to help.

It’s a journey, not a race. Sit down, make time, pace yourself.

Experts and partners to inspire, guide and support.


Note: If Thai basil is unavailable, any basil will work. To chiffonade basil, stack leaves, roll up and thinly slice crosswise into ribbons. PER SERVING: CALORIES 170; TOTAL FAT 11g (sat. 1g, trans fat 0g); CHOL 95mg; SODIUM 360mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 3g; SUGARS 1g; PROTEIN 13g

Nutrition content of this recipe is calculated by a registered dietitian nutritionist. Due to variations in ingredients and measurements, values are approximations. Nutrients provided for this recipe represent values based on the best available information. This information is not intended to treat or diagnose. Please consult your physician for diet recommendations specific to your personal needs. real food 11

Lunds & Byerlys deli

Standout Sandwiches Our new chef-crafted sandwiches are the best thing to happen to sliced bread. Available exclusively in our delis.

Just Darn Good Turkey Sandwich

By Tim Tesch ExEcutivE chEf, and John sTueland, dEli dirEctor


ecently we set out to reinvent and re-create our deli sandwiches and wraps. To begin, we gathered a team of Lunds & Byerlys experts who could help us achieve our goal of creating the best sandwiches possible. Before we could get into the kitchen and start experimenting, our team embarked on a sandwich-eating mission—or, as we like to call it, “research.” We started at home—we tasted our own Lunds & Byerlys sandwiches. Then we moved on to local Twin Cities’ sandwiches, and soon we were traveling around the country tasting regional delicacies. We visited New York, San Francisco, New Orleans, Iowa, Wisconsin and beyond in search of unique ingredients and hot new flavors. Our research showed us that Sriracha, waffles and pickled veggies are trending. People are also interested in artisan cheeses,

Cherry Chicken Wrap

Korean BBQ Lettuce Wraps

12 real food spring 2016

spicy flavors and local ingredients such as Wisconsin ham and cheese and Minnesota turkey and tomatoes. After eating our way through the country, our next challenge was to translate these trends into delicious sandwiches and wraps for you to enjoy. We focused on revamping tried-and-true favorites and creating new and innovative recipes that could take lunchtime (or anytime for that matter) to a whole new level. Numerous trials and tastings in the Research & Development Kitchen finally led us to a collection of delicious sandwiches, wraps and—new to Lunds & Byerlys— lettuce wraps. You’ll find sandwich rolls, tortillas, hearty breads, flaky croissants and lettuce leaves filled with everything from applewood smoked bacon, herb roasted turkey breast or Kobe beef to crumbled Belgian waffles, chipotle aioli, curried quinoa or fresh veggies. From beginning to end, this process has truly been a team effort. In fact, once our recipes were developed, we began an intensive, hands-on chef training session so each person became an expert in each step of the preparation. We’re proud that every cook in our kitchen plays a part in creating these fresh sandwiches and wraps every single day. Our research and our time in the kitchen allowed us to enhance our efforts of sourcing the freshest, highest-quality ingredients possible. We’re excited for you to try our new sandwiches and wraps. You can now find our delicious creations in all Lunds & Byerlys deli departments!

Here are some of our favorites: Korean BBQ Lettuce Wraps: Kobe beef in Korean BBQ sauce, kimchee dressed rice noodles and a mix of scallions, red peppers, cilantro and sesame seeds served with tender romaine hearts. Sriracha Chicken Lettuce Wraps: Grilled chicken breast with all-natural Sriracha sauce, cucumbers and a mix of pickled daikon radishes, carrots and jalapeño peppers served with tender romaine hearts. Cherry Chicken Wrap: Diced chicken breast, baby spinach, dried cherries and walnuts combined with creamy dressing and wrapped up in a flour tortilla. Just Darn Good Turkey Sandwich: House herb-roasted turkey breast, baby Swiss cheese, Bushel Boy sliced beefsteak tomatoes, tender romaine hearts and Dijon cheese spread all layered between two slices of Lunds & Byerlys Heavy Grain Bread. Lemongrass Chicken Sandwich: We layer a French sandwich roll with Sriracha mayonnaise, grilled lemongrass chicken breast, pickled daikon radishes, carrots, jalapeños, romaine hearts and sliced seedless cucumber. Bistro Salumi & Brie Sandwich: We layer a French sandwich roll with Brie sandwich spread, prosciutto, Italian dry-cured salami, rosemary ham, baby arugula, white balsamic glaze and shaved Parmesan.

North Memorial makes clinic care as easy as express checkout. North Memorial makes it easier for you to get high quality primary care. We have 16 primary care clinics located throughout the Twin Cities. Plus, we collaborate with Lunds & Byerlys pharmacies to provide you with some of the most common vaccinations, so you can shop for groceries while getting healthier on the go. Look for additional health tips from North Memorial in your prescription bag, or online at North Memorial has clinics right by Lunds & Byerlys in: Downtown Minneapolis • Eden Prairie • Golden Valley • Maple Grove Minnetonka • Northeast Minneapolis • Plymouth • Wayzata Schedule an appointment now: CALL

(763) 581-CARE


“CARE” to (763) 581-CARE


online at

WALK-IN for care

Lunds & Byerlys

what’s in store

ANGIE’S BOOMCHICKAPOP® SWEET BARBECUE POPCORN Hungry for something that is “you-can’t-put-it-down” delicious? Angie’s BOOMCHICKAPOP Sweet Barbecue Popcorn is a sweet and tangy snack made in small batches. And like all of Angie’s products, it’s gluten-free, non-GMO popcorn that contains only ingredients you’ll love®.

Did you know? Angie’s BOOMCHICKAPOP got its start in a Minnesota garage when Dan and Angie Bastian wanted to find a fun project to do with their kids to teach them the value of hard work.

ANNIE’S CERTIFIED ORGANIC SOUPS Annie’s soups are made with high-quality ingredients that taste great. Like all of Annie’s products, each soup is made without artificial flavors, synthetic colors, preservatives or high fructose corn syrup. Varieties include creamy tomato and bunny pasta, creamy carrot and bunny pasta, and bunny pasta and chicken broth.

Tip: Top any Annie’s soup with Annie’s cheddar bunnies for a crunchy addition to your lunch.

COLUMBUS SALUMI AND DELI MEATS Since 1917, Columbus Foods has been dedicated to constantly perfecting their craft of producing high-quality Italian salumi and premium deli meats. Their products are made from the finest quality meats, which they thinly slice and package immediately to maintain a freshness you can actually taste.

Tip: Thinly sliced salumi or deli meat makes a delicious addition to any sandwich, flatbread or pizza.

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

RISHI TEA Awaken your senses with organic, GMO-free Rishi teas. Rishi’s buyers travel the globe each year sourcing the most exotic teas, herbs and spices directly from artisan farmers. Flavors include English breakfast, jasmine green, matcha super green and masala chai, as well as healthful blends such as turmeric ginger.

Did you know? Unlike other tea bags that strip away the flavor of the tea, Rishi’s biodegradable tea bag features a knit material designed to provide a truer infusion, resulting in an aromatic, full-bodied cup.

BLAKE’S ALL NATURAL FOODS Home cooking has never been easier, thanks to Blake’s. Using Great Grandma Clara’s heirloom family recipes, every Blake’s meal is made completely from scratch in small batches with the finest organic and natural ingredients. Varieties include chicken pot pie, shepherd’s pie, glutenfree chicken pot pie and old fashioned mac & cheese.

BUTCHE RS kitchen

Meyer Lemon Chicken

BUTCHERS KITCHEN Take the guesswork out of dinner with Butchers Kitchen, our newest line of delicious grab-and-go dishes, available in our meat & seafood departments. This butcher-inspired collection is a celebration of new and old, combining time-tested favorites with our butchers’ newest creations. The Butchers Kitchen collection includes: dragon breath pork back ribs, Meyer lemon rosemary chicken breast, molten mac n’ cheese meatloaf, 3 cheese juicy Brucey oven burger, bacon bleu juicy Brucey oven burger, and sunflower Sriracha chicken breast.

Did you know? Butchers Kitchen items are assembled fresh, with nearly all made by hand in each of our stores.

Tip: Slow cooking is the best way to prepare a Blake’s pot pie. Use your conventional oven to fully appreciate Blake’s signature flaky crust.

Dragon Breath Ribs real food 15

So quiet, it screams German engineering

Operating at a virtually silent 38 dBA, the Bosch 800 Plus is the quietest dishwasher in North America; so quiet that it features InfoLight® — a small red light that projects onto the floor to indicate the dishwasher is in use. Our Appliance Specialists will find the right choices for your kitchen at a price no one can beat.

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Asparagus Spring is prime time for these beloved spears BY MARY SUBIALKA



id you know on a hot day you might see asparagus grow? Asparagus grows from a crown planted about a foot underground, and when the temperature reaches 90 degrees the spears can grow seven inches in just 24 hours, according to the California Asparagus Commission. That means asparagus growers harvest their plants every day during this hottest part of the season. Talk about fresh. Domestic, fresh spears are most readily available from March through June, so spring is a good time to grab a bunch of this nutritious veggie while its trip to the store is shorter and sweeter. California produces approximately 70 percent of the domestic fresh supply with Washington state and Michigan providing the balance. Other states also grow asparagus in smaller quantities. Asparagus spears vary from as thin as a pencil to as fat as a thumb. Contrary to what you might think, those bigger, fatter spears don’t come from older plants—the larger sized asparagus generally comes from younger, more vigorous plants, while the thinner spears come from older plants or those planted closer together. While the taste and nutrition in each is essentially the same, the bigger stalks tend to be more tender while the little ones tend to offer a bit more concentrated flavor. Asparagus is an excellent source of folic acid, a good source of potassium, and a fairly significant source of vitamin C, thiamine and vitamin B6. It also packs an antioxidant punch as it contains both beta-carotene and lutein. And, five spears have only about 25 calories. . ASPARAGUS TIPS Asparagus can be enjoyed raw. Just rinse well in water to remove any sand and serve cold with a dip. To cook, boil or steam spears for 5 to 8 minutes or stir-fry in 1 to 2 tablespoons oil for 3 to 5 minutes. To microwave, use a large glass dish and arrange so that the quicker-cooking tips overlap in the center. Cover the dish with plastic wrap, turn back one corner to vent steam, and microwave at high power 4 to 7 minutes for spears or 3 to 5 minutes for cuts and tips; stir halfway through cooking time. Let stand 3 to 5 minutes. Grill larger sized spears brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with salt and pepper. Place directly on the grill, turning several times until brown and tender. To roast, preheat oven to 375°F. Brush or toss larger sized spears with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange on cooking sheet and place in oven 5 to 8 minutes. Classic simple preparations include serving it with herb butter (chives, parsley, chervil, savory or tarragon), béarnaise sauce or mustard vinaigrette. Add a squeeze of fresh lemon to steamed spears. Top with sour cream, yogurt or mayonnaise. Wrap spears with prosciutto for an easy, elegant appetizer. Whichever way you choose to enjoy asparagus, take a moment to appreciate this fast-growing wonder plant—and if you're lucky enough to catch it growing on a hot day, take a second look. Is it taller? ■

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healthy habits

Food Fighters


A diet rich with inflammation-fighting foods may be a key to a healthier you


lagued by chronic stomach pain, allergies and a host of other ailments since childhood, chef and cookbook author Amanda Haas found an answer to her problems when an allergist pointed out that her list of ailments read like a catalog of inflammatory disease-related issues. He asked the most obvious question: If food was her life, why hadn’t she looked to it for the answers? So she did—modifying her diet by removing foods particular to her sensitivities, including gluten first. Working with her doctor, she removed her other trigger foods and discovered that examining her food intake did not make her life less enjoyable. She was doing better but inspired to do more, developed The AntiInflammation Cookbook, which shares what she learned as she cooked her way back to health with delicious, simple recipes that calmed her inflammation. Following is a brief excerpt from the book and a recipe that includes a healthy dose of vegetables and omega-3 fatty acids, which have been shown to reduce inflammation. — Mary Subialka At its most basic, inflammation is the body’s response to outside irritants and stresses. Inflammation is a natural part of our immune system, and without it our wounds wouldn’t heal. But when inflammation becomes chronic, it upsets the natural balance of our internal ecosystems, wrecking havoc on our digestive and nervous systems. Innumerable factors bring on chronic inflammation, and more and

more people are becoming aware of its effects, electing to eliminate known irritants, such as gluten, in an effort to feel better. Yet while gluten sensitivity has gone mainstream, gluten is not the only irritant causing chronic inflammation. The typical Western diet of processed foods, excessive sugar, regular alcohol consumption, and too little of the foods that naturally counter inflammation, such as fresh vegetables, seeds, nuts, and oily fish, is contributing greatly to widespread chronic inflammation. Chronic inflammation can prompt or worsen diseases such as heart disease, inflammatory diseases (i.e., rheumatoid arthritis, lupus, celiac disease), diabetes, or many others (the list is long). At its lesser effect, chronic inflammation can manifest as gastrointestinal upset, lethargy, or overall malaise. … As a first step, informed, intentional eating can play a material role in promoting overall wellness and curbing the onset or progression of diseases that are negatively affected by inflammation. When attempting to improve your health through food, it’s important to understand a few things: There are foods that cause inflammation, foods that reduce it, and many foods that do some of both or neither. … Meet with your health-care practitioner to determine what you should be monitoring and recording, which diagnostic tests you should consider, and what modifications you might make in the short term. Ask for sources of reliable information on new findings relevant to your specific variables. Establish a timeline for exploration and assessment.

Fish En Papillote with Tomatoes, Corn and Asparagus MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Cooking fish in parchment packets seals in moisture while creating a beautiful presentation with loads of flavor. Learn this technique and use it over and over again with any type of fish and your favorite seasonal vegetables. 4 4-ounce fish fillets, such as halibut, salmon or snapper, pin bones removed Kosher salt freshly ground black pepper extra virgin olive oil for drizzling 2 lemons, preferably Meyer, ends trimmed, cut into 12 slices about 1⁄8 inch thick

kernels from 2 ears of corn 16 asparagus spears, bottoms trimmed, sliced on the bias into 1⁄2-inch pieces 1 cup cherry tomatoes (optional if nightshade-sensitive) 2 tablespoons finely chopped assorted herbs, such as basil, chives, parsley, tarragon and dill


1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut four pieces of parchment paper each 18 inches long. Place a fish fillet on the center of a piece of parchment. Season with a small pinch each of salt and pepper, then drizzle with olive oil. Place 3 lemon slices on the fillet, overlapping them slightly to cover the fish. Sprinkle ¼ each of the corn, asparagus, and tomatoes (if using) evenly around the fish, then drizzle with a little olive oil and season again with a small pinch each of salt and pepper. 2. Bring the long sides of the paper together, and fold the top edges down together to create a 1-inch seal, then continue to fold down tightly over the fish and vegetables. Twist the open ends of the parchment in opposite directions to prevent steam from escaping. 3. Repeat the process with the remaining ingredients and parchment. Place the packets on a baking sheet. (If not baking immediately, refrigerate for up to 4 hours.) FISH EN PAPILLOTE W. TOMATOES, CORN & 4. Bake until the packets are lightly browned and have puffed up, about 15 minutes. Transfer each ASPARAGUS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 202 (51 from fat); FAT 6g (sat. 1g); CHOL 53mg; SODIUM packet to a plate and let stand for 5 minutes. Using sharp scissors, cut an X into the center of each 360mg; CARB 16g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 24g packet and carefully pull back the parchment and sprinkle with the herbs. Serve immediately. ■ 18 real food spring 2016



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A Week of Meals With a little planning and a 14-ingredient shopping list to supplement pantry staples, a week of homemade meals is in the bag by Robin Asbell

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very week can be a week of great dinners. Not in a faraway dream world where we don’t have to work and someone waits on us hand and foot, but in your busy, full schedule. The key to this dinner nirvana

is in your hands right now. All you need are three lists: one of just 14 items to buy, a second of pantry staples and lastly, the recipes to craft five delicious dinners. All it takes is a little planning. You know your schedule, so pick a day to shop and put away your groceries. Then each day make one meal, but save time by making a little extra meat, salad dressing or grain to use later in the week. Saving money is built in, as you are stretching your steaks and chicken by serving them with inexpensive whole grains and beans, which pack plenty of nutritional bonuses. Once you give this week of meals a try, you can branch out, swapping in salmon, turkey or tofu for the beef and chicken, and switching out the barley for farro or quinoa. But first, start with this short shopping list that will get you in and out of the store in a few minutes. After all, everyone needs a little more downtime.

PhotograPhy Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics

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Meal 1

Seared Steaks with Provençal Sauce Makes 4 servings

Grocery ShoppinG

6 steaks 6 chicken breasts • 2 14.5-ounce cans diced tomatoes • 3 15-ounce cans black beans • 2 cups barley • 2 4-ounce bags mixed greens • 2 pounds carrots • 3 cucumbers • 1 bunch broccoli • 1 bunch parsley • 2 bunches scallions • 1 pound Monterey Jack cheese • 1 package wholewheat tortillas • 1 package hamburger buns (or 1 head Bibb lettuce) • •

pantry StapleS • bay leaf • brown

rice unsalted • cayenne • chicken stock and beef broth • chili powder • chipotle powder • cornstarch • Dijon mustard • extra virgin olive oil • garlic • honey • hot sauce • pepper • roasted red peppers • red wine vinegar • rosemary, dried • salt • sesame seeds • soy sauce • white wine • butter,

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This easy pan sauce lends steaks the irresistible flavors of Provence, France, and allows them to stabilize without losing all their juices. 4 4- to 6-ounce, 1-inch-thick eye, strip or top-loin steaks, at room temperature, plus 2 more for barley salad recipe 1/2 teaspoon coarse salt, plus more to taste 1/2 teaspoon coarsely cracked black pepper, plus more to taste 1/2 cup chopped scallion, white parts only (reserve green parts for mixed-greens salad recipe) 1 cup diced tomato, drained 1/2 cup white wine 1/2 cup beef broth 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon dried rosemary, minced 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 3 tablespoons diced unsalted butter 1. Pat steaks dry with paper towels. Heat a heavy 12-inch skillet over high heat 3 minutes, until very hot. Sprinkle 1 side of steaks with half of salt and pepper. Place in pan seasoned side down and 1/4 inch apart and sprinkle other side with remaining salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-high and sear steaks, undisturbed, 4 minutes. 2. Flip steaks and cook 5 minutes for medium-rare or 6 minutes for medium. Transfer to a plate and tent with foil to keep warm. (Heat a second pan and sear steaks for barley salad recipe. Let cool completely before storing in the refrigerator, tightly covered.) 3. Add scallion to pan and stir 1 minute. Add tomato, wine, broth, bay leaf and rosemary. Bring to a boil, stirring, and cook 5 minutes to reduce to a thick sauce. 4. Add vinegar and mustard, and stir. Whisk in butter, one pat at a time. Add salt and pepper to taste. 5. Serve steaks with sauce and mixed-greens salad (below) on the side.

Mixed Greens with Roasted Peppers and Vinaigrette Makes 4 servings

Make this easy dressing, and you will have enough for three different salad recipes. A trusty jar of roasted red bell peppers (from the Pantry Staples at left) comes in handy here, with the sweet, tender peppers topping the mixed greens. Vinaigrette 1 clove garlic, pressed 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salad 1 4-ounce bag mixed greens 2 medium roasted red peppers, drained, patted dry and slivered scallion greens (reserved from steak recipe)

1. For the vinaigrette: In a medium bowl, combine garlic, mustard, sugar and salt. Whisk in vinegar. Gradually whisk in oil. Measure 1/4 cup for salad and transfer remaining to a jar for use in other recipes. 2. For the salad: Place mixed greens in a large salad bowl. Top with peppers and scallion greens. Drizzle with dressing and toss. Serve immediately.

Seared SteakS with Provenรงal Sauce and Mixed GreenS with roaSted PePPerS and vinaiGrette

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Meal 2

Barley and Black Bean Salad with Seared Steaks Makes 4 servings

Stretch your steaks and get plenty of protein and fiber from the beans and barley, which make a perfect bed for the seared beef. 11/2 11/2 1 1/2 1/2 2

cups barley cups shredded carrot 15-ounce can black beans, rinsed and drained cup fresh parsley, chopped cup vinaigrette (reserve from mixed-greens salad recipe) seared steaks, sliced thinly (reserved from steak recipe)

1. In a 2-quart saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, bring 2½ cups water to a boil. Stir in barley, cover and reduce heat to low. Cook 30 minutes, until water is absorbed. Remove from heat and let cool uncovered. Reserve 1 cup barley and store in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for burger recipe. 2. Transfer remaining barley to a large bowl; add carrot, beans, parsley and vinaigrette, and toss to mix. Portion onto four plates and top with steak slices. Drizzle with any remaining steak juices and serve.

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Meal 3

Sesame-Soy Chicken with Broccoli, Carrots and Brown Rice Makes 4 servings

The classic Chinese combo of sesame seeds and soy sauce packs tons of flavor into an easy marinade, so you can sit back and let the ingredients do the work. To save time, the marinade also serves as the sauce for the stir-fried vegetables, with the addition of a little jolt of vinegar. 2 2 1 1/8 1/4 1/4 2 1/2 2 4 1 2 1 1 1 1 1

tablespoons sesame seeds cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon cayenne cup honey cup soy sauce tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon canola oil cup chicken stock large scallions, thinly sliced large chicken breasts on the bone, plus 2 more for wraps recipe teaspoon ground chipotle powder pinches salt cup brown rice teaspoon cornstarch teaspoon red wine vinegar bunch broccoli large carrot, sliced on the diagonal

1. In a zipper-top bag or a large storage container, combine sesame seeds, garlic, ginger, cayenne, honey, soy sauce, 2 tablespoons oil, stock and scallions. Stir to mix. Using a sharp paring knife, cut three slashes across each chicken breast to aid marinade penetration. Place chicken in marinade, turning and massaging to coat well. Let sit in refrigerator overnight. 2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Place chicken on a baking sheet with a rim and bake 20 minutes. Cut slashes in 2 remaining chicken breasts, place on another baking sheet and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon ground chipotle powder and a pinch salt. Bake at same time, cool completely and refrigerate, tightly covered, for use in wraps recipe. 3. Meanwhile, bring 2 cups water to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Add rice and a pinch salt. Cover and cook 40 minutes, until water is absorbed. 4. In a 1-quart saucepan, bring marinade to a boil over medium-high heat and simmer 5 minutes, until slightly thickened. Whisk together cornstarch and vinegar, and stir into sauce until glossy and thickened. Baste chicken with marinade and bake 10 minutes longer. 5. Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in a medium sautÊ pan over medium-high heat. Cut broccoli florets and peel and slice stems. Reserve and store 2 cups florets for big green salad recipe. Add broccoli and carrots and stir-fry 3 minutes. Add remaining marinade and toss to coat. 6. To plate, top a bed of rice with stir-fried vegetables and sauce, placing chicken alongside.

26 real food spring 2016

spring 2016 real food 27

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Meal 4

Chicken and Black Bean Wraps with Instant Salsa Makes 6 servings

Baking those extra chicken breasts the day before gives you a head start on these easy wraps. They are the ultimate in packable food, and if your family tends to eat at different times, they can be stored in the refrigerator to be reheated when convenient. 2 chipotle chicken breasts, shredded (reserved from sesame-soy chicken recipe) 1 15-ounce can black beans, rinsed and drained 1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained and squeezed of excess water 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped 2 chopped scallions 1 teaspoon cumin 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon hot sauce, plus more for serving 6 8-inch whole-wheat tortillas 1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese oil for pan 1. In a large bowl, combine chicken and beans. In a medium bowl, combine tomatoes, parsley, scallions, cumin, salt and hot sauce. Mix well. 2. Place tortillas on a clean counter or cutting board. Evenly divide cheese among tortillas, top with chicken mixture and sprinkle a heaping tablespoon of salsa over each. Fold in tortilla ends and roll into a wrap. 3. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and lightly spray with oil. Place wraps seam side down in pan and cook 2 minutes per side, until tortillas are toasted and fillings are hot. Serve with extra salsa and hot sauce.

Cucumber Salad Makes 4 servings

This salad is a speedy way to add a vegetable to dinner. The refreshing, sweet-tart cucumbers will cool your palate in between bites of the spicy wrap. 3 1/4 1/4 1/2

large cucumbers, peeled cup red wine vinegar cup sugar teaspoon salt

1. Slice cucumbers into a medium bowl. 2. In a small bowl, stir together vinegar, sugar and salt, and pour over cucumbers. Toss to coat and let stand at room temperature at least 10 minutes.

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Meal 5

Barley, Black Bean and Parsley Burgers Makes 4 servings

Making a veggie burger is easy, and using fresh ingredients will yield a much better version than the frozen variety. Barley gives these burgers a chewy texture, while the black beans and cheese pump up the protein. If you want to cut the carbs, skip the bun and opt for a Bibb lettuce leaf. 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more for baking sheet 1/2 cup onion, chopped 1 cup barley (reserved from barley salad recipe) 1 15-ounce can black beans, rinsed and drained 1 large egg 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon cumin 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped 1/2 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese 4 whole-wheat hamburger buns (or 4 large Bibb lettuce leaves)* 1. Oil a baking sheet and reserve. 2. Sauté onion in oil 30 minutes, until soft and golden. Let cool slightly. In a food processor, combine onion, barley and half of beans. Pulse to coarsely chop. Add egg, salt, cumin and parsley, and pulse until mixed. Add remaining beans and cheese, and process to just combine. 3. Place mixture on pan in ½-cup mounds, at least 1 inch apart. Pat flat with damp palms to create ¾-inch-thick patties. Chill at least 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 400°F. 4. Bake 30 minutes, flipping halfway through cooking time. Toast buns if desired and serve with condiments of choice.

Big Green Salad with Broccoli, Carrots, Cucumbers and Parsley Makes 4 servings

This salad will use up the remaining vegetables and greens. It’s full of crunch and color, and the vinaigrette perks it up to perfectly accompany the burgers. 1 4-ounce bag mixed greens 2 cups broccoli florets (reserved from sesame-soy chicken recipe) 1 medium carrot, thinly sliced 1/2 large cucumber, peeled, seeded and sliced 1/4 cup vinaigrette (reserved from mixed-greens salad recipe) 1. Place greens in a large salad bowl and top with vegetables. Drizzle with vinaigrette and toss to coat. Serve immediately. *Nutrition information calculated for whole-wheat buns.  30 real food spring 2016


SEARED STEAKS W. PROVENÇAL SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 282 (150 from fat); FAT 17g (sat. 9g); CHOL 102mg; SODIUM 406mg; CARB 4g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 28g


BARLEY & BLACK BEAN SALAD W. SEARED STEAKS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 601 (226 from fat); FAT 26g (sat. 5g); CHOL 40mg; SODIUM 499mg; CARB 69g; FIBER 18g; PROTEIN 26g


CHICKEN (SKIN ON) & BLACK BEAN WRAPS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 378 (117 from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 6g); CHOL 53mg; SODIUM 908mg; CARB 40g; FIBER 10g; PROTEIN 27g

CUCUMBER SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 38 (3 from fat); FAT 0g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 75mg; CARB 8g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 1g

BARLEY, BLACK BEAN & PARSLEY BURGERS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 360 (80 from fat); FAT 9g (sat. 4g); CHOL 59mg; SODIUM 859mg; CARB 52g; FIBER 13g; PROTEIN 18g

BIG GREEN SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 120 (92 from fat); FAT 10g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 120mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 2g

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Tour of Asia

Embark on a culinary journey across this intriguing continent


asting our way through Asia offers a glimpse of the differences and similarities in the signature dishes of several countries—Thailand, Japan, China,

Korea and Vietnam. For example, a favorite Thai coconut milk soup is laced with ginger, garlic and chiles—flavors that pop up in many popular dishes from Japan to Vietnam, as well as destinations in between. And although chiles are ubiquitous in many of the dishes, their form varies, from fresh to dried, in paste format or fermented into a sauce—all similar but not the same. Get ready to explore and enjoy.

by Marie SiMMonS

PhotograPhy Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics

32 real food spring 2016

ChiCken and CoConut Milk Soup with leMongraSS (reCipe page 34)

spring 2016 real food 33


Chicken and Coconut Milk Soup with Lemongrass Makes 4 servings

Lemongrass and coconut milk are popular ingredients in the Thai kitchen. Chiles—like those used to make the sriracha— are found in pantries throughout Asia. The coconut milk and chicken broth base of this nourishing soup are perfumed with ginger, garlic, shallots and cilantro, ingredients common to many Asian kitchens. 2 cups butternut or acorn squash, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes 2 cans coconut milk 2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth 2 stalks lemongrass, trimmed and sliced 2 tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and chopped 2 cloves garlic, bruised with side of a knife ¼ cup coarsely chopped shallots ¼ cup coarsely chopped cilantro stems 8 ounces chicken tenders, cut into 1-inch-long and ¼-inch-wide pieces 1 cup baby bok choy, trimmed and thinly sliced 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or more to taste 1 teaspoon soy sauce, or more to taste ½ teaspoon sriracha, or more to taste ½ teaspoon coarse salt (optional) 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro leaves 1. Steam squash in a steamer set over 1 inch of simmering water, covered, 10 minutes, until tender. Set aside. 2. In a large saucepan, combine coconut milk and broth. Add lemongrass, ginger, garlic, shallots and cilantro stems. Cook over medium-low heat until bubbles appear around edge and liquid is steaming. Cover, remove from heat and let stand 20 minutes. 3. Set a strainer over a large bowl to reserve liquid. Strain solids, press with back of a spoon to extract flavors and discard. Return soup to saucepan. 4. Reheat soup to a simmer. Stir in chicken and squash. Cover and cook over low heat 5 minutes, until chicken is cooked through. Add bok choy and stir until wilted. Add lime juice, soy sauce and sriracha, adjusting to taste. Add salt to taste. 5. Ladle into deep bowls and sprinkle with cilantro leaves. Serve piping hot.

34 real food spring 2016


Stir-Fried Curried Pork with Chinese Noodles, Shiitake and Spinach Makes 4 servings

Soy, ginger and garlic are three staples found in all Asian kitchens. This marinade is made flavorful with these ingredients along with curry paste. There are many brands of curry paste (some Chinese and some Thai), each with varying levels of heat. Start with 1 tablespoon and increase the amount to taste, bearing in mind that the noodles will absorb some of the heat. 12 ounces 1/8- to ¼-inch wide fresh Asian wheat noodles (May substitute cooked linguine or fettucine) 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil 1 tablespoon curry paste, plus more to taste 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons ginger, peeled and grated 1 teaspoon grated garlic 12 ounces pork tenderloin, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices and ¼- to ½-inch-wide strips 3 tablespoons peanut, canola or avocado oil ½ cup shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded and caps cut into ¼- to ½-inch-wide strips 5 ounces baby spinach 1. Cook noodles according to instructions. Drain, rinse with cool water and shake in a colander until dry. Transfer to a large bowl and add sesame oil. Toss to coat. 2. In a medium bowl, combine curry paste, ½ cup water, soy sauce, ginger and garlic, and stir until blended. Add more curry paste to taste. Add pork and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate 10 to 30 minutes. 3. Heat a wok or large nonstick skillet until hot enough to sizzle a drop of water. Heat frying oil until shimmering. Use a fork or tongs to lift pork from marinade to hot oil, adding a few pieces at a time. Reserve marinade. Stir-fry pork until browned and cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Add mushrooms, toss to coat and cook, stirring, 1 minute. 4. Add noodles and reserved marinade, stir and cook 3 minutes, until blended. Add spinach and toss until wilted. Serve immediately.

Stir-Fried Curried Pork with ChineSe noodleS, Shiitake and SPinaCh

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Fresh Spring Rolls with Noodles, Shrimp and Mint Makes 4 servings

Cool and refreshing, this Vietnamese specialty is a welcome snack, light meal or first course, often served with a spicy peanut sauce or a sweet-and-sour vinaigrette for dipping. The rice vinegar, soy sauce, toasted sesame oil and chiles featured here are found in kitchens throughout Asia. Unique to the Vietnamese pantry, rice wrappers are dry and brittle until softened in hot water. Make the pickled carrots ahead of time and keep on hand for this recipe and for adding to sandwiches or salads. Thin strips of marinated chicken or tofu can be substituted for the shrimp. Pickled Carrots 1 cup coarsely shredded carrots 2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar ½ tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon minced jalapeño, or to taste Dipping Sauce ¼ cup fresh lime juice ¼ cup unseasoned rice vinegar 2½ teaspoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon sugar 2 teaspoons minced jalapeño, or to taste 2½ 1 4 8 ½ ¼ ¼ 8

ounces rice vermicelli teaspoon toasted sesame oil Boston or curly-leaf lettuce leaves, trimmed and halved large shrimp, cooked and split lengthwise cup mint leaves cup diagonally sliced scallions cup coarsely chopped cilantro rice wrappers (10 inches in diameter)

1. For the pickled carrots: In a medium bowl, stir together ingredients. Refrigerate until ready to use. 2. For the dipping sauce: In a small bowl, combine lime juice, vinegar, soy sauce and sugar, and stir until sugar is dissolved. Add jalapeño. 3. Fill a large saucepan ¾ full of water and bring to a boil. If vermicelli are folded, cut at fold to separate. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, until tender. Drain, rinse with cold water and drain again. Toss in a bowl with oil and set aside. 4. Strain carrots. Stack lettuce leaves. Prepare vermicelli, shrimp, mint, scallions and cilantro assembly-line style. 5. Have ready a wide, shallow soup plate filled with cold water and a tray lined with a kitchen towel. Pour very hot water into a second shallow soup plate. 6. Dip 1 sheet rice wrapper in hot water and let stand 10 seconds, until soft and pliable. With a fork, lift from water and dip in cold water. (The wrinkled wrapper will become smooth when it hits the cold water.) Use a finger to lift from cold water and place on kitchen towel, smoothing out flat. 7. Make 1 roll at a time. Center a lettuce leaf half on wrapper, leaving a 1-inch border. Spread 1/8 of vermicelli in a line atop lettuce along bottom third of wrapper. Top with 2 halves shrimp, 1 tablespoon carrots and 1/8 of mint, scallions and cilantro. 8. Fold up bottom of wrapper then fold in sides. Tightly roll, using dampened fingers to seal seam against roll. Place seam side down and wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Repeat with remaining ingredients. To serve, halve on the diagonal and serve with dipping sauce.

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Fresh spring rolls with noodles, shrimp and mint

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Spicy Pan-Seared Beef with Bell Peppers and Onions Makes 4 servings

Korean cooking includes a wide range of sizzling dishes served with steamed or stir-fried vegetables on a bed of hot rice, often employing ingredients familiar to other Asian pantries: soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, ginger and garlic. This marinade features gochugaru, hot Korean red-pepper paste. (If not available, substitute another Asian hot sauce, such as sriracha.) This recipe is also excellent made with boneless, skinless chicken thighs. 4 2 2 2 2 2 2 12 3 3 3 2

tablespoons soy sauce tablespoons honey tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar tablespoons gochugaru teaspoons toasted sesame oil cloves garlic, grated teaspoons ginger, peeled and grated to 16 ounces 1/8- to ¼-inch-thick slices beef tri tip, or other well-marbled cut cups sushi rice peanut, avocado or canola oil, as needed cups red, green and/or yellow bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices cups large yellow onion, sliced in ¼-inch-thick half slices tablespoons thinly sliced scallion greens, for garnish

1. In a bowl, whisk together soy sauce, honey, vinegar, gochugaru, sesame oil, garlic and ginger until blended. Add more gochugaru to taste. Add beef and stir to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight. 2. Just before serving, cook rice. Keep warm. 3. Heat 2 tablespoons frying oil in a large, heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to sizzle a piece of pepper. Add pepper, reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring, 5 minutes. Add onion and cook 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until browned. Spoon vegetables onto a serving platter and cover with foil to keep warm. 4. Heat same skillet over high heat until very hot. Add 1 tablespoon oil and swirl to coat pan. When hot enough to sizzle a slice of beef, use a fork or tongs to add a few slices at a time. Sear 1 to 2 minutes per side. Arrange beef atop vegetables. 5. Reduce heat to medium low, add reserved marinade to skillet and boil gently, stirring, 1 minute. Pour over beef and vegetables or serve in a small bowl on the side. Serve over wide bowls of rice. Top with sliced scallion greens.

Spicy pan-Seared Beef with Bell pepperS and OniOnS

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Miso and Shoyu Glazed Salmon with Lettuce and Edamame Salad with Sesame-Miso Dressing MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Sesame-miso dressing is often served in Japanese restaurants spooned onto chopped lettuce. In the Japanese kitchen, a special mortar and pestle is used to grind the sesame seeds; this adapted recipe employs a spice or coffee grinder. Unique to the Japanese pantry are mirin (sweet rice wine), miso (fermented soybeans available in different colors and flavors) and shoyu (Japanese soy sauce). The versatile edamame (fresh soybeans) are available frozen in or out of their pods. Eaten cold in salads or warm as a side dish, they are a favorite finger food at the Japanese table. 1 4 ½ 12 1

cup frozen edamame, shelled cups coarsely chopped iceberg lettuce or Romaine hearts cup coarsely chopped sweet onion ounces fresh salmon cup cucumber, partially peeled and thinly sliced

Glaze 1 tablespoon honey ½ tablespoon white miso, or more to taste 2 teaspoons shoyu, or more to taste Sesame-Miso Dressing 2 tablespoons white sesame seeds, toasted 3 tablespoons unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar 2 tablespoons white miso 1 tablespoon mirin 2 teaspoon shoyu


1. In a small saucepan, bring ½ cup water to a boil. Reduce heat to low and stir in edamame. Cook, covered, 5 minutes, until tender. Drain and let cool. 2. In a large bowl, combine lettuce and onion, and cover with water. Add a handful of ice cubes. Let stand. 3. For the glaze: In a small bowl, stir together honey, miso and shoyu until blended. 4. Arrange top oven rack 4 inches from broiler and set heat on high. Line a rimmed sheet pan with foil. Place salmon skin side down on pan. Spread glaze on top and broil 5 minutes, until cooked through. Let cool. 5. For the sesame-miso dressing: Grind seeds in a spice or coffee grinder or pound in a mortar and pestle to a rough powder. Set aside. In a small bowl, combine vinegar, miso and mirin, and stir until smooth. Gradually stir in seeds and shoyu. Dressing will be very thick. Add more vinegar and/or shoyu to taste. Set aside. 6. Drain water from lettuce and onion, spin dry in a salad spinner or shake in a colander and blot with a kitchen towel. Place in a large, wide serving bowl. Add cucumber and edamame, and toss. Spoon dressing on top and gently blend. Remove skin from salmon and discard. Break fish into large pieces and arrange around edge. Garnish with remaining sesame seeds. ■

CHICKEN & COCONUT MILK SOUP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 524 (370 from fat); FAT 44g (sat. 37g); CHOL 35mg; SODIUM 221mg; CARB 21g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 19g

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STIR-FRIED CURRIED PORK: PER SERVING: CALORIES 478 (162 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 4g); CHOL 92mg; SODIUM 804mg; CARB 47g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 32g

FRESH SPRING ROLLS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 226 (16 from fat); FAT 2g (sat. 0g); CHOL 23mg; SODIUM 323mg; CARB 45g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 7g

SPICY PAN-SEARED BEEF: PER SERVING: CALORIES 475 (143 from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 3g); CHOL 47mg; SODIUM 937mg; CARB 58g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 25g

MISO & SHOYU GLAZED SALMON: PER SERVING: CALORIES 256 (96 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 2g); CHOL 41mg; SODIUM 782mg; CARB 16g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 24g

Miso and shoyu Glazed salMon with lettuce and edaMaMe salad with sesaMe-Miso dressinG

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Celebrate Citrus Add a splash of sunshine to dessert with citrus fruits Recipes by caRla snydeR

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hether you prefer your treats tart and tantalizing or sweet with just a twist of tart, citrus fruits bring a bright flavor

to the table. With lemons and limes available year-round, and blood oranges in season through May, it’s easy to whip up these delicious desserts for special occasions—or any day. Plus, that squeeze of juice and zest of peel deliver a nutritious dose of vitamin C.

Key Lime Bars with Tropical Nut Crust Makes about 30 (2-Inch) bars

Reminiscent of Key lime pie, these little squares pack a super-limey punch. The gingersnap crust includes almonds and coconut, and makes these bars perfect for your next warm-weather cookout or family get-together. Crust 3 cups gingersnap cookies 1 cup almonds 1⁄3 cup granulated sugar 1⁄4 teaspoon kosher salt 1⁄2 cup unsalted butter, melted 1 cup sweetened shredded coconut

Topping 2 cups granulated sugar 1⁄4 cup plus 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour 1⁄2 cup unsalted butter, melted 5 large eggs, beaten lightly zest of 2 limes 1 cup bottled Key lime juice pinch of kosher salt powdered sugar for garnish (optional)

fruit anna kucherova - fotolIa.coM

TO MAKE THE CRUST: 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom and sides of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with aluminum foil, letting the excess hang over the sides of the pan. (The overhang will help you lift the bars from the pan.) Grease the foil. 2. Put the gingersnaps in the bowl of a food processor and grind to fine crumbs. Transfer the ground cookies to another bowl. Process the almonds, granulated sugar and salt until finely ground. Add the cookie crumbs to the almond mixture in the processor bowl, then add the melted butter and coconut. Pulse until completely mixed. 3. Dump the crust mixture into the prepared pan and, using the bottom of a glass or measuring cup, press the mixture to compact and firm it in the bottom of the pan. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the crust is set and golden. Let cool on a wire rack for 20 minutes. Leave the oven on. TO MAKE THE TOPPING: 1. Whisk the granulated sugar and flour in a medium bowl, then whisk in the melted butter, eggs, lime zest, Key lime juice and salt. 2. Pour the topping over the baked crust and bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the topping is set. 3. Let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack, then cover and refrigerate until fully set, about 2 hours. 4. Loosen the sides with a knife if necessary and lift the bars from the pan using the overhanging foil. Gently turn and peel the foil off the crust (it might stick a little), then turn right-side up and transfer to a cutting board. Cut the bars with a large knife into 2-inch squares, wiping the knife clean with a damp paper towel between cuts. Dust with powdered sugar if desired. Store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

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TO MAKE THE CHOCOLATE CRUST: 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Combine the chocolate wafers and sugar in the bowl of a food processor and process until finely ground. Pour in the melted butter and process until well mixed and crumbly. 2. Dump the crumbs into a 9-inch springform pan and, using the bottom of a glass or measuring cup, press the crumbs on the bottom and 1 inch up the sides of the pan. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until fragrant and firm. Let cool completely on a wire rack.

Triple-Citrus Tart with Chocolate Crust And Berries serves 8

A few years ago, cookbook author Melissa Clark had the bright idea to mix lemon, blood orange and lime juice all together to make a citrus curd. I think it’s time we revisited this idea. “Bright” doesn’t even begin to describe the flavor of this tart, and don’t get me started on the lovely pale color—I could live in a room that hue. The chocolate crust is perfect and adds just the right heft of cocoa flavor to this light yet rich assemblage topped with bright red raspberries and luscious blackberries. Chocolate Crust 42 chocolate wafers (I use Nabisco Famous Chocolate Wafers) 1⁄4 cup sugar 1⁄2 cup unsalted butter, melted Citrus Curd 2 lemons 2 blood oranges 1 lime 3⁄4 cup sugar 6 tablespoons unsalted butter pinch of kosher salt 3 large eggs, plus 3 egg yolks

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Glaze 1⁄4 cup strained apricot jam 1 tablespoon corn syrup 11⁄2 cups blackberries 11⁄2 cups raspberries

TO MAKE THE CITRUS CURD: 1. Zest the lemons, blood oranges and lime; set the zests aside. Squeeze the citrus juice (you should have about 1 cup) and combine it with the sugar, butter and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. 2. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and egg yolks in a medium heat-proof bowl until combined. While whisking rapidly, pour the hot citrussugar mixture slowly into the eggs. Return the egg mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a heat-proof spatula, until lightly thickened, 2 to 3 minutes (do not boil or the eggs will curdle). The curd should coat the back of the spatula. It will thicken further as it cools. 3. Immediately transfer the citrus curd to a clean heat-proof bowl (otherwise it will continue to cook in the hot pan and could scramble) and stir in the zests. Continue stirring for 1 minute to stop the cooking and then let continue to cool at room temperature for 30 minutes. 4. Pour the curd into the cooled shell. Refrigerate the tart, covered, for at least 2 hours, or up to 24 hours, to set up. TO MAKE THE GLAZE: 1. Combine the jam and corn syrup in a small saucepan over medium heat and heat, stirring, until thinned and warm, about 1 minute. 2. Garnish the top of the tart with a circle of blackberries around the edge and fill in with the raspberries. Brush the warm (not hot) glaze over the berries to give them shine. Refrigerate for up to 8 hours before serving. (It will still be good the next day, but the berries will begin to soften.)

Olive Oil-Poppy Seed Loaf with Lemon Glaze SERVES 10

I love this cake. It’s rich, moist and lemony, with a hint of olive oil flavor that takes you by surprise and charms you into eating another slice. Made with extra virgin olive oil instead of butter, this loaf is kind of good for you. Really. Go ahead and enjoy another sliver. 11⁄2 11⁄2 1⁄4 1⁄2 1

1 3 1⁄2 1 3⁄4 1

cups unbleached all-purpose flour teaspoons baking powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon kosher salt cup granulated sugar zest of 1 lemon; plus 1⁄4 cup fresh lemon juice, plus 2 tablespoons cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt large eggs, at room temperature cup extra virgin olive oil tablespoon poppy seeds cup powdered sugar tablespoon heavy cream


1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 5-by9-inch loaf pan and line the bottom with parchment paper. 2. Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl until combined. Set aside. 3. Beat the granulated sugar, lemon zest, ¼ cup lemon juice, and yogurt in a mixer bowl on medium speed until blended. Add the eggs, one at a time, and then the olive oil and beat until creamy. Turn the speed to low, add the flour mixture in three additions, and beat until smooth. Add the poppy seeds and beat until just blended. 4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake for about 1 hour, or until a wooden skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes, then turn out onto the rack. Peel off the parchment and turn the loaf right-side up.

KEY LIME BARS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 231 (102 from fat); FAT 12g (sat. 6g); CHOL 47mg; SODIUM 109mg; CARB 30g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g

5. Combine the powdered sugar, cream and 2 tablespoons lemon juice in a small bowl and blend with a fork to make a glaze. 6. Place the rack with the warm cake on a baking sheet (to catch the drips). Poke holes in the top of the cake with the wooden skewer and pour half of the glaze over the top. Once the cake has cooled completely, pour the remaining glaze over the top and let it dry before slicing. Store, covered, at room temperature for up to 4 days. ■

TRIPLE-CITRUS TART: PER SERVING: CALORIES 540 (254 from fat); FAT 29g (sat. 16g); CHOL 191mg; SODIUM 284mg; CARB 68g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 7g

OLIVE OIL-POPPY SEED LOAF: PER SERVING: CALORIES 340 (140 from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 4g); CHOL 66mg; SODIUM 258mg; CARB 46g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 5g



spring 2016 real food 45

Beyond Burritos Tortillas make a versatile base from breakfast to dessert

reciPeS by StePhanie aShcraFt and donna Kelly

PhotograPhy Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics

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TorTilla Quiches (recipe page 48)

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ortillas have long been a staple in Mexican cuisine, but the beloved discs have many more uses beyond the burrito. Here, tortillas serve as a base for a seafood appetizer and salad, plus make

a crust for mini breakfast quiches. The flatbread mixes in flavor and texture to savory soup and also offers a surprising twist for a sweet treat.

Tortilla Quiches

Seafood Tostada Salad

Makes 4 to 6 individual quiches

Makes 6 servings

6 4 1 1 1 1/2 1/4 1

small flour tortillas eggs can (12 ounces) evaporated milk tablespoon flour teaspoon salt cup chopped cooked ham, bacon or sausage cup chopped green onion cup finely grated Swiss cheese salsa sour cream

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Place a tortilla in microwave 20 seconds, or until softened. Spray one side of each tortilla with nonstick cooking spray and press into 6 (10-ounce) custard baking cups. Tortilla will stick up about 1/2 inch over the top. 3. In a small bowl, combine eggs, milk, flour and salt and set aside. 4. Divide remaining ingredients into tortilla cups, ending with cheese on top. 5. Pour egg mixture over top, about 1/2 cup in each, or until about 2/3 full. Bake 50 minutes, or until set and lightly browned. 6. Remove from oven and cool slightly before serving. Serve with salsa and sour cream as a garnish.

TorTilla TipS corn tortillas come in a standard 6-inch size. generally, they must be cooked before being eaten. heat an 8-inch or larger skillet on the stovetop and lay a tortilla on the hot pan. With a spatula, flip the tortilla every 30–45 seconds, or until lightly toasted but bendable. to prevent flour tortillas from cracking or breaking, soften them in the microwave before using. Place up to 4 tortillas at a time on a plate and cover with a paper towel. Microwave 20–30 seconds, or until tortillas are soft and bendable. keep covered with paper towel until ready to use.

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1 11/2 1 1 1 1/2 6 1 6 1 2 8

cup tiny shrimp, cooked and chilled cups crabmeat, cooked and chilled ripe avocado, sliced cup chopped green onion package (8 ounces) frozen peas cup vinegar tablespoons canola oil tablespoon sugar or sweetener corn tortilla tostada shells can (16 ounces) refried beans, heated cups grated cheddar cheese cups finely chopped lettuce

1. Mix first eight ingredients together and set aside. 2. Spread each tostada shell with 1/4 cup refried beans and top with 1/3 cup cheese. Place each tostada on a plate. 3. Stir lettuce into seafood mixture, divide into 6 servings, and mound lettuce mixture onto each tostada. Sprinkle cheese over top.

Smoked Salmon Triangles Makes 24 triangles

4 4 1 1/2 2 1

tablespoons butter, divided medium flour tortillas package (8 ounces) cream cheese, softened pound thinly sliced smoked salmon medium tomatoes, thinly sliced medium purple onion, thinly sliced

1. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a frying pan over low heat. Cook 1 tortilla until light golden brown and crisp on one side only. Remove and cool. Repeat with remaining tortillas. 2. Divide cream cheese into four equal parts and spread over each tortilla on the non-crisp side. Then equally divide and add salmon, tomatoes and onion. 3. Cut each tortilla into 6 triangle wedges. Chill before serving. Garnish with freshly chopped parsley.

Seafood ToSTada Salad and Smoked Salmon TriangleS

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Chicken Enchilada Soup maKes 4 to 6 servinGs

2 cups cooked, chopped chicken breasts 1 tablespoon butter 1/2 cup diced green onion 1 tablespoon minced garlic 3 cups chicken broth 1 can (14 ounces) enchilada sauce 4 corn tortillas 1 cup sour cream 2 cups grated cheddar cheese 1. Sauté chicken in butter. Add onion and garlic and cook until tender. Add broth and enchilada sauce. 2. Cut tortillas into small pieces with a pizza cutter. Add to soup. Simmer 5–10 minutes. Add sour cream and cheese and stir until melted. 3. Serve hot with crushed tortilla chips as a garnish.

recipes reprinted with permission from 101 THings To do wiTH a TorTilla by stephanie ashcraft and donna Kelly © 2005 Gibbs smith

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Mexican Apple Strudel MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

6 1 1 1 1 1 8 1⁄2

cups peeled and grated cooking apples cup raisins tablespoon lemon juice cup sugar tablespoon cinnamon cup chopped nuts medium flour tortillas cup butter, melted whipped topping, if desired


1. In a large bowl, mix apples, raisins, lemon juice, sugar, cinnamon and nuts. 2. Microwave 1 tortilla 20 seconds to soften. (See “Tortilla Tips” page 48.) Spread 1 cup apple mixture on tortilla. Roll up jelly-roll style. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Repeat with remaining tortillas. Refrigerate 1 hour. 3. Preheat oven to 350°F. 4. Remove plastic wrap from tortilla rolls and cut into 11⁄2-inch slices. Place on baking sheet and secure with toothpicks. Brush generously with butter. Bake 30 minutes. Serve with a dollop of whipped topping, if desired. ■

TORTILLA QUICHES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 302 (137 from fat); FAT 15g (sat. 8g); CHOL 164mg; SODIUM 891mg; CARB 22g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 18g

SEAFOOD TOSTADA SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 591 (309 from fat); FAT 35g (sat. 11g); CHOL 122mg; SODIUM 1016mg; CARB 42g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 29g

SMOKED SALMON TRIANGLES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 88 (53 from fat); FAT 6g (sat. 3g); CHOL 18mg; SODIUM 172mg; CARB 5g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 3g

CHICKEN ENCHILADA SOUP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 466 (270 from fat); FAT 31g (sat. 16g); CHOL 125mg; SODIUM 1468mg; CARB 16g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 32g

MEXICAN APPLE STRUDEL: PER SERVING: CALORIES 617 (238 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 10g); CHOL 35mg; SODIUM 504mg; CARB 91g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 8g

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of Change

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Former Gourmet magazine editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl cooked her way out of despair, resulting in her newest book, My Kitchen Year, an homage to the little joys in life and the power of food to bring people together BY TARA Q. THOMAS



magine you are 61 years old, gainfully and happily employed your entire life, until one day, when your business vanishes. That’s exactly what happened to Ruth Reichl one sunny autumn morning in 2009. The previous 10 years she had spent as editor-in-chief of Gourmet, ushering the 60-year-old magazine into the 21st century. No food magazine had ever had such a loyal following. While other magazines came and went, Gourmet was the go-to source for generations of cooks. Not even Reichl saw the end coming. One day she was in Seattle, promoting the justpublished Gourmet Today cookbook; the next day she was back at 4 Times Square, watching staff pack their belongings into the boxes that were issued along with the news. That year’s December issue—already at the printer—was canceled. There was nothing to do but go home. When she got there, like most sensible people, Reichl headed for the kitchen. Only she didn’t pull out a pint of Häagen-Dazs and a spoon. Instead, she began to cook. For the next year, she threw herself into cooking, as if warding off the bad feelings with fire and knives. When she fretted about the future, she busied herself with forming dumplings or baking a cake; when she felt dread, she chased it away with the scents of lemons, chopped parsley and roasting meat. And at some point along the way, she realized that she’d made it out, alive and happy. My Kitchen Year, her newest book, is about how she cooked her way out of despair, built around 136 recipes central to her story. Mind you, this wasn’t an obvious trajectory. Prior to Gourmet, she had been the restaurant critic of The New York Times; before that, she was restaurant editor of the Los Angeles Times. Along the way, she starred in her own TV show, Gourmet’s Adventures with Ruth, produced the two-time James Beard Award-winning Gourmet’s Diary of a Foodie, and penned a number of best-selling books, including Tender at the Bone: Growing up at the Table, in which she describes her mother’s dangerously awful cooking, and Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise. It had been years since she actually needed to cook a meal, let alone had time to do so. Reichl, however, had once before cooked her way into a better place when she was in her early twenties and wrote her first book, Mmmmmm A Feastiary.

“I was just out of college with a degree in art history and I’d thought I’d walk into a museum and they’d ask me to be a curator,” Reichl explains. “I was really sort of miserable. That book was my salvation.” Back then, she was living on the Lower East Side of Manhattan, where Jewish pickle sellers, Italian grocers, Puerto Rican butchers and Chinese fishmongers all set up shop. “That was a time when, if you went to the Italian grocer and stood in front of the canned tomatoes long enough, a little old Sicilian woman would come up and ask you if you wanted her recipe for Sunday sauce,” Reichl remembers. Rather than mull over her unhappiness, she let her curiosity take her into stores where she would pepper people with questions. “They were just happy that someone was interested,” Reichl says, recalling a fishmonger who taught her how to make gefilte fish, and a butcher who teased the meat out of lamb necks—all she could afford at the time—in exchange for the chance to chat. She shopped and cooked, never considering making it a formal exercise until a friend suggested she write a cookbook. “I didn’t think of myself as a writer,” Reichl says. “I just thought it might be a way to make enough money while I found what I wanted to do.” My Kitchen Year, came about in a similar way— organically, without much planning. Like that twentysomething writer trying to find her footing in the real world after the cerebral world of college, Reichl was searching for some sort of connection, using food as her muse— writing a cookbook never


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photos mikkel vang

“ … when I go into the kitchen, I find a reason to be happy to be alive.”

even occurred to her until six months after the close, when a former Gourmet colleague, Bill Sertl, suggested it. That was just after he had asked her how it was to no longer be able to dine out on an expense account—something she’d had since 1978—and she realized she was having so much fun cooking that she hadn’t even given it a thought. For most of us, that sounds preposterous— how can you not miss dining at all the latest hot spots in the restaurant capital of the world? But there are downsides. “My job was such a princess job—always meeting famous people, having these special experiences—that a day without something spectacular happening wasn’t any good,” Reichl tells me. “I’d forgotten about the little joys.” As the book began to take shape in her head, it was the little joys that guided it—the steak sandwich a kind counter clerk gifted her at the airport one day just after the close; the smell of a chocolate cake permeating the air; the “soft, sticky, sweet, salty” delight of a perfectly

smooshed peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Heck, Reichl even waxes poetic about the texture of waxed paper and the way it diffuses light. (It sounds crazy until you pull a roll out and look at it. Packing lunches in my house just took on a new dimension.) “I called it ‘the little book,’ ” Reichl says, “I thought of it as a book of hours, to take to bed and read.” What she ended up with is a gorgeous, 327page book lavishly filled with candid photos of her and the dishes she turned out of her kitchen. (Reichl explains that photographer Mikkel Vang set the ground rules: “No food stylists, prop stylists, lighting people. We’ll just cook it, put it on a plate, shoot it and eat it. It’s naked and honest, and the pictures should be, too.”) Yet the book hones to that original idea of a sort of devotional, a meditation on the little joys that pack so much power. As such, the recipes are sometimes secondary to the message. Constructing a steak sandwich, for instance, doesn’t really require a recipe, yet Reichl uses it to tell a story that underlines the power of random acts of kindness, and tucks in small lessons about the cost advantages, cultural identities and physical challenges of skirt steak in the process. Other recipes cut right to the essence of cooking. When she describes coaching her son Nick through the making of quiche, which she does from bed, where she’s recovering from a broken foot, you see the magic in the process as he discovers how easy it is to turn a simple mixture of eggs, cream and cheese into a fabulously airy, soothingly warm, golden pie. If this recipe doesn’t convince pie-fearers to give it a try, nothing will. But the most important takeaway is the power of food to bring people together. What she misses most about Gourmet is not, in fact, the extraordinary meals with extraordinary people, but the test kitchen. “You could always go down there and be instantly immersed in people passionate about food, weighing the pros and cons of adding some fenugreek to a recipe, deciding how much cumin it needed. It was where I would go to get away from the bureaucracy of the magazine.” Alone on the hilltop at her house in the country, she expected she would be lonely, but instead discovered a community happy to welcome her in the neighborhood stores. “I mean it when I say that cooking is just as much about the shopping as it is about the cooking,” Reichl says. “Just the chance to hang out with people—to go down the hill and talk to the Rubiners about some cheese, or the

people at the meat market,” she says, referring to her local stores. “These connections seem precious to me.” When she couldn’t make it out, Twitter filled in the test kitchen void. “The best example was the bread dough,” she says, recalling an early attempt at bread baking when a winter storm took the power out for days. After sending a plea for advice into the Twitterverse, replies came back fast and furious. “People kept saying, ‘Punch it down!’ So that’s what I did. It was like having my own little test kitchen up here on the mountain.” The bread came out beautifully, made better by the repeated punchdowns, in fact—but more important was the discovery that, even on a mountaintop stranded in the snow, she wasn’t alone. Reichl allows that cooking may not be the answer for everyone, and that’s okay with her; she hopes people will read the book anyway, as a metaphor for how to live. “Whatever you are into, maybe painting, singing—in moments of losing yourself to despair you have to give yourself to the things that mean a lot,” she says. “This is so important right now. It’s so easy to be in despair,” she says, citing the massacres that happened in Paris last November when we spoke, and the conflicts in Mali. “You could easily look around and just think, ugh, it’s just too much. But when I go into the kitchen, I find a reason to be happy to be alive. When I peel a peach and find that color underneath—you never see that color unless you’re in a kitchen; you don’t see it when you bite into it. You see it only if you peel it. It’s like a sunset. If you’re paying attention, looking, you’ll see it.” 

A Custard in a Crust ServeS 6

Editor’s note: Ruth Reichl, recovering from a broken foot, coaches her college-age son Nick and his friend Gemma on the art of making quiche as they look to lend a helping hand. Use your favorite pie crust recipe or purchase a ready-made crust. 1 ¼ 1 3

premade pie crust pound Gruyère cheese cup heavy cream eggs salt pepper nutmeg

“Quiche?” Nick looked worried. “Isn’t that hard?” “The hardest part of making quiche,” I told him, “is blind-baking the crust.” “What’s that?” “You take the empty crust, pierce it all over with a fork so it doesn’t buckle, cover it with tinfoil, and fill it with weights. There’s a bag of beans that I use as weights, sitting next to the pie pans. All you have to do is put the weighted crust into a hot (425°) oven for 20 minutes, then remove the foil and the weights and put the crust back into the oven for another eight minutes or so, until it turns golden. Don’t worry if it slumps a little in the pan. It always does and it won’t matter. Then you let it cool on a rack while you make the filling.” Nick went out to the kitchen and I could hear cupboards opening and tinfoil crackling. An hour or so later he came back into the bedroom triumphantly carrying the empty crust. “What now?” he asked. You can put anything into a quiche: the custard is fine all by itself, but strips of bacon, bits of leftover ham, sautéed onions, vegetables, grated cheese—virtually everything tastes good married to a custard and a crust. “I think there’s some Gruyère cheese. Grate some and scatter it over the bottom of the prebaked crust. If there’s some kind of leftover meat or vegetable, you can shred it and add that as well. Or not. Then whisk three eggs with a cup of cream and a little salt and pepper. Grate a little nutmeg on top and stick it in the oven.” “How long do I bake it?” “About 35 minutes. Maybe 40. At 375 degrees.” I heard Nick and Gemma out in the kitchen, murmuring as they cooked. Then I began to smell the fine scent of softly melting cheese. Suddenly Nick was back, looking worried. “It’s been in there half an hour. How will I know when it’s done?” “You’ll see. The custard will rise and get really golden. When it looks like it can’t possibly go any higher, you’ll know it’s done.”

recipe excerpted from My Kitchen year: 136 recipes that saved My Life by ruth reichl copyright © 2015 by ruth reichl. excerpted by permiSSion of random houSe, a diviSion of random houSe, inc. all rightS reServed. no part of thiS excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permiSSion in writing from the publiSher.

He went back into the kitchen and I heard a shout, “Now!” He sounded elated, and I knew exactly how he felt. There’s nothing quite so spectacular as a just-baked quiche before the custard deflates. He and Gemma came into my room triumphantly bearing a gorgeous golden dome. The four of us finished every morsel, which made me a bit sad; leftover quiche is delicious.

spring 2016 real food 55


Going Green Young “green” Vinho Verde is a fresh choice as the weather warms BY MARY SUBIALKA


t’s the perfect time of year to go green—green wine, that is. In the case of a bottle of Vinho Verde, which literally means “green wine,” the term refers to its fresh and fruity youthfulness. Slightly effervescent but not classified as a sparkling wine, it is especially enjoyable as the weather warms and is great for picnics or gatherings on the deck—plus, it’s always a good value. Hailing from the Minho region of northwestern Portugal, most Vinho Verde is a blend of various local grapes, most often Alvarinho (known as Albariño in Spain), Loureiro and Trajadura, which produce wine that can be rich with acidity that helps make them fresh and crisp. Often described as having complex flavors of apricots, peaches and citrus, the best are dry but some are also made in a sweet style. Since this wine comes from the Costa Verde or “green coast,” it is a natural partner with fish and other seafood, from ceviche, clams, crab, lobster and mussels to scallops and shrimp. It’s good before meals as an apéritif and with appetizers from cold cuts to goat cheese. It also makes a nice match with Asian food and chicken or spicy dishes, as well as green vegetables, tomatoes, and salad with vinaigrette. Vinho Verde is meant to be enjoyed within a year or so of bottling; it can turn flat and tannic if allowed to age too long. A seal of quality on the back of every bottle includes a serial number and date, which indicates the year in which it was bottled. In fact, if you want to learn a bit more about your bottle, you can enter that information on the Vinho Verde Viticultural Commission’s website: ■


56 real food spring 2016

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