Lunds & Byerlys
Summer A taste of the tropics
GET FIRED UP
Fan the flames of your barbecue love with meaty recipes
FLEX YOUR MEALS
Optional meat or plant proteins bring flexibility to the table
BEYOND SAL ADS
Delicious ideas for cooking leafy greens
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THET I C
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Olivia Crutchfield ~ daughter and patient CRU TCHFIELD DERMATOLO GY
Olivia Crutchfield ~ daughter and patient Olivia Crutchfield ~ daughter and patient
CRUTCHFIELD DER MATOLOGY C R U T C Experience H F I E L D DQuality ERM ATOLOGY matters. C R U T C H F I E Lcounts. D DERM ATOLOGY CRU TCHFIELD DERMATOLO GY CRU TCHFIELD DERMATOLO GY
Experience counts. Quality matters.
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Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.
20 Flex Your Meals
ecipes with optional meat or plant proteins bring a little R something for everyone to the table B Y PAT CROCKER
30 Glorious Greens
Cook leafy greens and take them deliciously beyond salads B Y ROBIN ASBELL
38 Summer Hygge
elight in the flavorful and naturally beautiful food D of Scandinavia RECIPES BY BRONTË AURELL
46 Fired Up
an the flames of your barbecue love with these F meaty meals RECIPES BY GENEVIEVE TAYLOR
52 Everyday Cooking
Donal Skehan’s recipe for whipping up tasty dishes any day of the week BY MARY SUBIALK A
Departments 4 Bites
Vegans at the BBQ: Get grilling with plant-based meals RECIPES BY K ATY BESKOW
6 Kitchen Skills
Mangoes and Papayas: Tropical candy BY JASON ROSS
8 Contributors 17 Ingredient
Pea Protein Powder: A hearty plant-based protein boost BY SAMANTHA JOHNSON
18 Healthy Habits
Ten Great Health Foods: Add a nutritious punch to your diet COURTESY MAYO CLINIC
Sangria: Summer in a glass BY MARY SUBIALK A
On the cover: TROPICAL FRUIT MANGO PAPAYA TART PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
PUBLISHER TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR CUSTOM PUBLISHING ALESHA TAYLOR
CONTENT DIRECTOR MARY SUBIALKA
ASSOCIATE EDITORS SAMANTHA JOHNSON, KATE LAWLESS AND ERIK TORMOEN CREATIVE DIRECTOR TONYA SUTFIN SENIOR ART DIRECTOR TED ROSSITER
COVER SHOT OF DONAL SKEHAN EVAN DOHERTY
PRODUCTION MANAGER LY NGUYEN
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE MARK BERRIMAN
PUBLISHING & SALES COORDINATOR JOHANNA MORIARTY VOLUME 18, NUMBER 2 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 9401 James Ave. S, Suite 152, Bloomington, MN 55431, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse. recycleMAGAZINElogo_WHITE.pdf
summer 2022 real food 3
Vegans at the BBQ Fire up the grill for plant-based eating
hat do vegans eat at a barbecue?” If this sounds like the setup to a bad joke, food writer and avowed vegan Katy Beskow has a serious answer. Actually, 70 answers. In her new book “Vegan BBQ,” she lays out dozens of plant-based meals for grilling (plus sides, salads and desserts). A couple grilling tips from Beskow to get you started: Charcoal is always her choice, for the “cooked-in” flavor and lower purchase cost, although nailing the temperature may require some patience. For that, she recommends gauging the heat of your grill by eyeing the embers. If they’re glowing white, with bright red cores, that’s a high heat. If they’re ashy white with moderate
4 real food summer 2022
glow, that means medium. Yellow-brown embers with no glow indicate low heat. (You can also hold your palm two inches above the grill—just a couple seconds for high heat, three to four seconds for medium heat, and five to six seconds for low heat—to gauge the heat.) Whether you’re vegan, vegetarian or simply craving fresh new ideas, says Beskow in the intro to the book, there are so many delicious possibilities when barbecuing plant-based foods. They transform when cooked on the grill, which adds charred, smoky flavor and crisp yet tender textures. Here are two recipes from her book to get you going, both of them good for an intimate summer gathering. —erik tormoen
Teriyaki Tofu with Charred Greens MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Tofu is marinated in a sweet, salty and sticky sauce in this succulent dish, then served with charred greens. Teriyaki sauce is made for grilling, as it adds moisture as well as the perfect balance of sweet and very savory. Prepare the sauce in advance as it will thicken slightly as it cools, creating the perfect glaze for tender tofu. ½ 2 1 1 2 1 9
12 16 ¼ ½ 1
cup (scant) soy sauce tablespoons brown sugar tablespoon maple syrup tablespoon mirin garlic cloves, crushed (½-inch) piece of ginger, peeled and grated Pinch of dried chili flakes ounce block pre-pressed extra-firm tofu, cut horizontally into 4 slices florets broccolini sugar snap peas savoy cabbage, cut into 4 wedges tablespoon sunflower oil, for brushing teaspoon sesame seeds
1. Set the grill for medium heat. Put the soy sauce, brown sugar, maple syrup, mirin, garlic, ginger and chili flakes into a pan. Heat over a medium heat on the stovetop for 5 to 6 minutes until the mixture is bubbling, then remove from the heat and allow to cool and thicken for a few minutes. 2. Blot the slices of tofu with a paper towel or clean cloth to remove any excess moisture. Score the tofu lightly in crisscross pattern on one side (this will help the tofu to absorb the marinade). Place the tofu slices into a deep dish, then pour over the teriyaki marinade. Allow to stand for 1 hour, turning the tofu a couple of times. 3. Skewer the broccoli florets, sugar snap peas and cabbage wedges onto 4 metal skewers, with 3 pieces of broccoli, 4 sugar snap peas and a wedge of cabbage on each. Brush with a little sunflower oil. 4. Shake excess marinade off the tofu, then carefully place on the hot grill. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, turning when the cooked side appears firm. 5. Add the loaded skewers to the hot grill and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, turning frequently until tender and charred.
Pulled Mango Tacos with Beans, Radishes and Coriander MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Sweet, spiced mango becomes something special when grilled, which is why I make smoky pulled mango the star of the show in these family-friendly tacos. Personally, I love the contrast of the smooth mango in crunchy taco shells, but feel free to use soft corn wraps if you prefer. –katy beskow 1 (14-ounce) can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed 3 scallions, finely chopped 2 radishes, finely diced 1 (¼-inch) piece of cucumber, finely diced Handful of fresh cilantro leaves, chopped ½ lime, juiced Generous pinch of smoked sea salt, to taste
For the Pulled Mango
2 tablespoons oil 1 teaspoon smoked paprika Pinch of mild chili powder pinch of sea salt 2 mangoes, peeled and sliced lengthways into 4 “cheeks” per mango 2 red bell peppers, deseeded and sliced into 8 thick strips 8 crunchy corn taco shells 2 tablespoons vegan mayonnaise
1. Set the grill for medium heat. In a bowl, stir together the kidney beans, scallions, radishes, cucumber, cilantro and lime juice. Season to taste with smoked sea salt. Allow to infuse while you light the barbecue. 2. In a bowl, whisk together the oil, smoked paprika, chili powder and sea salt. Lay out the mango and peppers on a plate and brush both sides with the oil mix. 3. Use tongs to place the mango and pepper slices onto the hot grill and cook for 5 to 6 minutes on each side until softened and sizzling and grill lines appear. 4. Lay out the taco shells and spoon in the bean mix. Add the pepper slices. 5. Place the mango onto a chopping board and use forks to gently pull the mango apart into finer shreds. Place into the taco shells and serve while still hot. HOT TIP: These tacos are mildly spiced, making them perfect for younger eaters. If you prefer a little more heat, grill Padron peppers alongside the mango, or spoon over a few jalapeño pepper slices from the jar.
6. Remove the tofu slices from the grill and place on serving plates. Scatter each one with a few sesame seeds. Remove the skewers from the grill and carefully slide the vegetables onto the plates, placing the broccoli florets on top of the teriyaki tofu. HOT TIP: Mirin is a sweet Japanese rice wine, which adds a little acidity to a dish, but less than vinegar. n
RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “VEGAN BBQ” BY KATY BESKOW © 2022 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM HARDIE GRANT BOOKS. PHOTOS BY LUKE ALBERT.
summer 2022 real food 5
Tropical Candy Summer is ripe for working with sweet, tangy mangoes and papayas BY JASON ROSS
wo of the world’s finest tropical fruits flood the produce aisles each summer. With colors ranging from golden yellow to deep red, and flesh as sweet and tangy as candy, mangoes and papayas begin piling up for the season at the end of May and will run until September. This is the best time to try a ripe tropical treat. If you are not sure how to handle these fruits, here are some tips on selecting, peeling and cutting them, as well as a tropical tart recipe that features both delicious fruits. Continued on page 8 PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
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Tropical Fruit Mango Papaya Tart MAKES 1 (10-INCH) TART, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
1 (10-inch) tart shell (see recipe at right) 1½ cups lime curd (see recipe at right) 2 medium mangoes peeled and sliced ¼-inch thick (see cutting tips page 8) 1 small papaya peeled and sliced ¼-inch thick (see cutting tips page 8) 2 tablespoons lime juice 2 tablespoons powdered sugar 1. Scoop the lime curd into the baked tart shell, and using the back of a serving spoon or pastry knife, smooth and spread the lime curd to fill the shell. 2. Drizzle the lime juice over the fruit. Arrange the fruit in a pinwheel pattern (or any pattern you like), alternating papaya and mango around the tart. Sprinkle the tart liberally with powdered sugar using a sieve, if you have one, or sprinkle with your fingers or a spoon. Slice and serve. 3. The tart can be stored in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 hours, unwrapped, before serving.
Sweet Tart Dough
MAKES 1½ CUPS, FOR 1 (10-INCH) TART SHELL
MAKES 1 (10-INCH) TART SHELL, 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Tart and tangy, this curd makes the perfect foil to the sweet tropical fruit.
Here is a trusty tart dough using the classic method: mix, wrap and rest, roll, chill, bake with weights, cool and use with your favorite filling.
4 7 1¾ 1¾ 1
egg yolks whole eggs cups sugar cups lime juice (from about 12 limes) stick unsalted butter, cut into small cubes 1 tablespoon lime zest
1. In a medium size non-reactive pot, such as stainless steel or enamel cast iron, whisk together the egg yolks, whole eggs, sugar and lime juice. (You could make this recipe in a double boiler, using a medium sized mixing bowl over a pot of simmering water, but it will take longer to cook.) 2. Cook the curd over low heat stirring constantly for about 15 to 20 minutes, until the curd is thick like pudding. It will easily coat the back of a spoon and hold its shape if dolloped onto a plate. 3. As soon as the curd reaches the thick consistency, turn off the heat and stir in the cubed butter. The butter will help cool down the curd and prevent the eggs from over cooking and “scrambling.” Stir in lime zest. 4. Store wrapped with plastic touching the surface of the curd to prevent a skin from forming, and chill fully before use, about 1 hour. This can be refrigerated up to 5 days. (The assembled tart is best eaten the same day, but could be refrigerated for 2 to 3 days.)
1½ sticks unsalted butter, cut into cubes and room temperature soft ½ cup sugar ½ teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon vanilla 2 medium eggs, beaten 1½ cups loosely scooped all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling out the dough pie weights or dry beans 1. Using a stand mixer or hand mixer, beat together the butter, sugar, salt and vanilla for about 3 minutes on medium speed until fully creamed, smooth and pale in color. 2. On low speed, add 1 egg and stir until incorporated. Scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula, then add the second egg and stir until incorporated on low speed. 3. Use a rubber spatula to start, and then your hands to mix in the flour. 4. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and press into a 1- to 2-inch thick disc. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour or until cold and firm. (The dough can keep refrigerated for a couple days before use.) 5. Remove the dough and allow to warm slightly for about 10 minutes. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a circle about 12 inches in diameter and ¼-inch thick. Lift the rolled dough, and gently push it into a 10-inch tart pan, making sure the dough is snug against the corners. 6. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes and heat the oven to 350°F. 7. After the raw tart shell has chilled, use a small knife to trim any excess dough, leaving the dough a little taller than the tart pan. This will allow for some shrinkage during cooking. 8. Line the dough with parchment paper or aluminum foil and pour in pie weights or dry beans. Place on a sheet pan and “blind” bake in the oven for 20 minutes, rotating after 10, until the edges are browned. 9. Remove the weights and the paper or foil liner, and continue baking another 20 to 30 minutes until the tart is fully browned. 10. Cool the shell on a wire rack. The fully cooled shell can be wrapped and stored at room temperature for 1 day, or wrapped and stored in the freezer for 1 to 2 months.
summer 2022 real food 7
Robin Asbell spreads
Selecting Both mangoes and papayas ripen well after they are picked. Look for fruit that yields to gentle pressure. Avoid brown or black spots, which could mean bruising. Most importantly, ripe fruit will have a pleasant perfume. If the fuit looks and feels nice, but still firm or hard, store at room temperature until soft. This will typically take a couple days. Ripe fruit can be stored in the refrigerator until ready to eat. Peeling and Serving Mango 1. Trim off the mango top and bottom flat about ¼ inch. A mango is a bit unwieldy, and its smooth skin can make it difficult for a peeler or knife to make initial cuts. Trimming off the mango’s ends will help with this issue. Plus, after you trim the ends, you will get a peek at the shape of the pit, making it easier to cut later. 2. Use a peeler or knife to remove the skin. If the mango is very ripe, it might be challenging with a peeler, so stand the mango on its trimmed bottom side, and use a chef knife to carefully remove the skin. Slide the knife edge between the skin and the flesh of the mango in long smooth strokes from top to bottom, working your way around the mango until it is fully peeled. Discard the peels. 3. To cut, stand the mango on its trimmed bottom side. Use the information gained from trimming the bottom
and top of the mango to show where the pit is, and make two cuts down on either side of the pit—try to keep the knife as close to the pit as possible. You will be left with two nice slices of mango. Discard the pit. (Or, if your house is anything like mine, give the pit to one of the impatient children waiting for the fruit, and let them messily nibble on any bits of fruit still clinging to the pit.) Then, slice the mango slices and use in the Tropical Fruit Mango Papaya Tart. Also enjoy cut into bite sized cubes and mix in with your favorite fruit salad. Peeling and Serving Papaya 1. Peeling: Like the mango, trim a thin piece of the papaya top and bottom to give your peeler or knife better grip. Then peel the papaya from top to bottom all the way around and discard the peel. 2. Cutting: Slice the papaya in half lengthwise, revealing an empty cavity, similar to a melon, filled with black seeds. Use a spoon to scrape out the seeds and discard. Lay the papaya halves on a cutting board, flat side down, and slice ¼ inch slices for use in the tart, or cut in cubes and add to fruit salad. I like a squeeze of lime with papaya, as the flavor is strong and the acid cuts through, giving the fruit a lively balance. n
n u t r i t i o n (p e r s e r v i n g) TROPICAL FRUIT MANGO PAPAYA TART CALORIES: 710, FAT: 36G (SAT: 20G), CHOLESTEROL: 365 MG, SODIUM: 230 MG, CARB: 91G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 68G, PROTEIN: 12G
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Te r r y B r e n n a n i s a
photographer based in M i n n e a p o li s , M i n n e s ot a , whose clients include Target, General Mills, Land O’Lakes and Hormel. “Working with Real Food is a highlight—I love working with the creative team and, of course, sampling the wonderful recipes.”
Pat Crocker is a pro-
fessional home economist and culinary herbalist with a passion for healthy food. Her knowledge and love of herbs has been honed over more than four decades of growing, studying, photographing, experimenting with and writing about what she calls “the helping plants.” In fact, Crocker marries the medicinal benefits of herbs in every original recipe she develops. Crocker has written 22 herb/ healthy cookbooks including “The Healing Herbs Cookbook,” “The Juicing Bible” and most recently, “The Herbalist’s Kitchen.”
began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. Her experience as a chef helps her make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.
Jason Ross is a chef
consultant for restaurants and hotels, developing menus and concept s for multiple high profile proper ties. He grew up and trained in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home. He currently teaches the next generation of chefs at Saint Paul College Culinary School.
MANGOS & PAPAYAS ADOBE STOCK / ARTIFIRSOV
Prepping Mango and Papaya
the word about how delicious whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. She is the author of “Plant-Based Meats,” “Great Bowls of Food,” “Big Vegan,” “GlutenFree Pasta” and more.
Lunds & Byerlys
Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina 50th Street: 952-926-6833 France Avenue: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Nokomis: 612-729-4000 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka Glen Lake: 952-512-7700 Highway 7: 952-935-0198 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222 White Bear Lake: 651-653-0000 Woodbury: 651-999-1200
Honoring Brand Champions A
n emotional annual highlight here at Lunds & Byerlys is the unveiling of team members who have earned our prestigious Brand Champion award. This year marks the 10th anniversary of presenting these awards to those within our L&B family who uphold our deeply seated values of respect, teamwork and innovation. Each Brand Champion also consistently demonstrates a remarkably high level of care, compassion and commitment to creating a sensational working and shopping experience. Since we launched our Brand Champion awards in 2012, we have had the pleasure of presenting this award to more than 100 individuals and teams. While the reality is we’re fortunate to have so many exceptional team members throughout our company, what makes these annual awards even more meaningful is the fact that the nominations and stories submitted about each of our Brand Champion recipients are coming directly from their peers. And it’s because of each recipient’s inspiring attitude and actions that they are held in such high esteem. Here are just a few snippets of the hundreds of stories we receive every year about our Brand Champions: “We can’t go a day here at Woodbury without hearing a compliment or wonderful story about Marcy from a customer,” a team member said about Marcy Miesen, a cashier at our Woodbury store. “Dave consistently demonstrates a willingness to step out of his day-to-day role to do absolutely anything he can to help the store succeed on a daily basis,” said a teammate of Dave Stumpf, an inventory control specialist at our Navarre store.
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“Keri is the epitome of mentorship. She works every day with a smile on her face and takes every opportunity to teach others around her how to grow their skills and abilities,” shared a co-worker about Keri Bergstrom, the operations manager at our Golden Valley store.
CATERING LundsandByerlys.com/Catering 952-897-9800 L&B EXTRAS Get extra offers and tools to make shopping easier. LundsandByerlys.com/Extras DOWNLOAD OUR APP LundsandByerlys.com/Mobile STAY CONNECTED Follow us on social media and sign up for our e-newsletter. LundsandByerlys.com/StayConnected FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE experts: 952-548-1400 REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663
What I so appreciate is all of the comments speak to each recipient’s care and compassion for our staff and customers. While a company’s success is usually defined financially and in numerical terms, we look at success starting with the individuals in the organization. And, if we have inspired them to work at the highest level then success usually follows. Please be sure to scan the QR code below to see all of our Brand Champions from the past 10 years. Thank you for choosing to shop with us. And we hope you continue to enjoy Real Food. Sincerely,
president and ceo SCAN TO SEE 10 YEARS OF L&B BRAND CHAMPIONS
lundsandbyerlys.com real food 9
Lunds & Byerlys
Are you tired of answering the dreaded question, “What’s for dinner?” We hear you. Evenings are quickly consumed by yoga classes, loads of laundry and kids’ activities, and getting dinner on the table can seem impossible. Here are simple solutions for a quick, easy and satisfying dinner the whole family will love.
Ten Minutes or Less
M E AT A N D S E A F O O D D E PA RT M E N T
Meat and Seafood Steamers
O u r s e a fo o d a n d c h i c ke n steamer meals are quick, easy and healthy options that provide you with a hot and tasty meal. Sustainable salmon, tilapia, shrimp or chicken are paired with rice and vegetable blends and topped with bold sauces. They are delicious, guilt-free and convenient meals that steam in 4 minutes or less in the microwave. D E L I D E PA RT M E N T
Ready To Heat Meals
One Minute D E L I D E PA RT M E N T
L&B Salads and Sandwiches
Short on time but looking for a quick and delicious meal? Look no further than our L&B salads and sandwiches! These chef-crafted sandwiches and salads were developed by our executive chefs and include classic flavors and unique flavor profiles. You’ll find tortillas, hearty breads and flaky croissants filled with everything from applewood bacon, herb-roasted turkey breast or roast beef to our famous Cherry Chicken Pasta Salad (minus the pasta), chipotle aioli, curried quinoa or fresh veggies. Plus, find salads filled with tender wild rice, crisp veggies, artisan cheese, housemade dressings and more! D E L I D E PA RT M E N T
Explore endless options on our hot bar. Our menu includes comfort food favorites, globally inspired dishes and classic Lunds & Byerlys recipes. We have everything from fried chicken and mashed potatoes to empanadas and chimichurri buttered zoodles. It’s the perfect quick fix!
10 real food summer 2022
Dinner can be on the table in mere minutes with our Ready To Heat meals. Whether you’re in the mood for traditional comfort food such as meatloaf and mashed potatoes or globally inspired dishes like Peruvian beef and potatoes or Asian meatballs and soba noodles, selections abound. Offerings also include “better for you” meals like tandoori turkey and vegetables or simple proteins such as grilled chicken breast or herb-roasted turkey breast that can be heated and added to prepared dishes. D E L I O R F R OZ E N D E PA RT M E N T
L&B soups are a dinner favorite, especially for busy families. Just pick them up in our deli or frozen departments and heat them at home for a great meal that’s ready in minutes. Add fun toppings, serve with one of our artisan breads and you’ve got a complete dinner the whole family will love.
One Hour or Less
M E AT A N D S E A F O O D D E PA R T M E N T
Butchers Kitchen is a line of delicious grab-and-go dishes assembled fresh in our stores. The seasonal selections range from outstanding burgers, kebabs and marinated pork tenderloins in the summer to comforting meatloaf, flavorful stuffed pork chops and porchetta roasts in the colder months. Plus, find a wide variety of breaded or marinated chicken breasts that make a delicious meal all year long. This season, try our marinated chicken thighs, which are outstanding on the grill, or our new black garlic sirloin steaks.
Completing the Meal BA K E RY D E PA RT M E N T
P R O D U C E D E PA RT M E N T
L&B Artisan Breads
L&B Produce Steamers
The light crackle of a fresh baguette. That cozy feeling of cutting into a warm loaf of bread fresh out of the oven. Artisan breads have a wonderful way of delighting every one of our senses. And they are the perfect complement to nearly any meal. Our authentic artisan bread is handmade in small batches and baked fresh daily.
Our new L&B Produce Steamers combine fresh-cut produce with flavorful butters and seasonings in a microwavable tray. Each chef-crafted combination steams perfectly in mere minutes so you can have a flavorful veggie side dish on the table in no time at all! Varieties include miso butter mushrooms and onions, sherry herb mushrooms and onions, and honey butter carrots.
D E L I D E PA RT M E N T
L&B Deli Salads
PLATE WITH PEAS ADOBE STOCK / AFRICA-STUDIO
Our deli cases are filled with beautiful, fresh and flavor-packed salads! Choose from L&B classics and customer favorites, including Cherry Chicken Pasta Salad, Signature Potato Salad, Sunny Broccoli Salad or Superfood Salad. We have a wide variety of sensational salads so everyone will find something they love.
F R OZ E N D E PA RT M E N T
L&B Frozen Vegetables
Our L&B Frozen Vegetables are delicious, trend-forward veggie mixes made with only the very best ingredients. Each convenient blend takes just minutes to heat and is a nutritious alternative to traditional prepared grain and starch side dishes. Choose from several blends, including riced cauliflower stir-fry, zucchini spirals, butternut squash spirals, Mediterranean riced cauliflower, mashed cauliflower, and broccoli and cheese.
P R O D U C E D E PA RT M E N T
D E PA RT M E N T
L&B Cut Fruit
L&B Cut Vegetables
In addition to carrot sticks and sliced jicama, we offer veggie blends that are ready to be added right into your recipe. Whether you need sliced veggies for fajitas, fried rice mix-ins or stir-fry veggies, we have everything you need to get cooking.
Add a bright, colorful side to your meal with our L&B Cut Fruit. Whether it’s tropical mango slices, juicy cantaloupe chunks or one of our delicious fruit blends, we have something to fit every taste. And even better—all the prep work is done for you.
lundsandbyerlys.com real food 11
Lunds & Byerlys
Summer in Minnesota is the time to enjoy sunshine and local produce. And this year, we challenged ourselves to make the most out of this beautiful weather and find ways to incorporate even more grilling into our summer meals. Our culinary team came up with some incredible grilled side dishes that can be thrown on the grill while you’re cooking up your favorite grilled proteins.
GRILLED CAESAR SALAD
Grilled Caesar Salad MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS | PREPARATION TIME: 5 MINUTES | COOK TIME: 15 MINUTES
6 tablespoons L&B Extra Virgin Olive Oil, divided 1 (11-ounce) L&B Classic French Baguette, cut into 1-inch slices Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 lemon, halved 3 romaine hearts, halved lengthwise ½ cup L&B Caesar Dressing Flake salt, to taste Parmesan, shaved, for garnish 1. Heat a grill or grill pan to high heat and brush the grates with 1 tablespoon olive oil. 2. On a sheet pan, drizzle the baguette slices with 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Flip, and oil and season the second side. 3. On the grill, toast the baguette slices until slightly charred on the outside and soft in the center, 3 to 5 minutes, flipping halfway through. Transfer to a cutting board to cool. 4. Meanwhile, place the lemon halves, cut side down, on the grill and cook for 3 minutes, until well charred. Transfer to a serving platter to cool. 5. Reduce the heat to medium-high. Brush the romaine halves with the remaining olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Grill, cut side down, for 2 to 3 minutes or until charred. Transfer to the serving platter. 6. Cut the toasted baguette slices into bite-size pieces and scatter over the grilled romaine. 7. Squeeze the charred lemon juice over the salad, to taste, and drizzle with the L&B Caesar Dressing. Season with flake salt and garnish with shaved Parmesan. Serve family style. 12 real food summer 2022
Grilled Potato Salad MAKES 6 SERVINGS | PREPARATION TIME:
LOCAL SUMMER SQUASH ON THE GRILL
10 MINUTES | COOK TIME: 30 MINUTES
1½ pounds small potatoes, halved 2 tablespoons L&B Extra Virgin Olive Oil Salt, to taste Pepper, to taste 5 strips bacon ½ cup green onions, sliced ½ cup L&B Smokehouse Cider Dressing 1. Start by heating your grill to medium-high. While it’s heating, halve potatoes, place them in a pan of cold water and bring them to a boil. Boil for 10 minutes. Tip: Starting the potatoes in cold water helps to ensure they heat and cook evenly all the way through. 2. Drain and toss potatoes with olive oil, salt and pepper to taste. Place the potatoes on the grill and cook on each side for 2 minutes, until you get nice grill marks. 3. Place bacon onto a piece of foil on the grill and cook for 18 to 20 minutes, until crispy. Remove from grill, place on a paper towel for a few minutes to soak up excess grease, then chop or crumble. 4. In a large serving bowl, combine grilled potatoes, crumbled bacon and chopped green onions. Top with L&B Smokehouse Cider Dressing—a customer favorite from our deli salad bar, now available in our produce department. Gently toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. n
Local Summer Squash on the Grill
GRILLED POTATO SALAD
MAKES 6 SERVINGS | PREPARATION TIME: 15 MINUTES | COOK TIME: 20 MINUTES
4 tomatoes, diced (approximately 2 cups) 2 tablespoons organic pesto sauce 2 tablespoons grated L&B Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 3 organic zucchini, cut in half lengthwise 2 tablespoons L&B Extra Virgin Olive Oil ⅛ teaspoon sea salt 1. To prepare the filling, place diced tomatoes in a bowl. Add pesto and L&B Parmigiano-Reggiano. Toss to coat the tomatoes. Set aside. 2. Heat the grill to high. 3. Trim the stem ends off the zucchini and
slice each one lengthwise. Using a teaspoon, scrape the seeded pulp out of each zucchini half to form a hollow shell. Brush both sides of each zucchini half with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. 4. Turn the grill down to medium-high and place the zucchini halves on the grill cut side down. Grill 6 to 8 minutes, or until each one is tender yet slightly firm. Remove the zucchini halves from the grill and place them in a baking dish, hollow side up. 5. Divide the tomato filling among the zucchini halves. Return the zucchini to the grill cut side up to warm for 10 minutes. Serve immediately. Optional: Sprinkle with more grated Parmigiano-Reggiano right before serving. lundsandbyerlys.com real food 13
L U N D S & B Y E R LY S
WHAT’S IN STORE 1
SANCHO FOOD EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
Produced in the heart of the La Mancha region in Spain, Sancho Extra Virgin Olive Oil represents the timeless heritage and agricultural techniques that have existed in the region for centuries. The olive oils start with the careful selection of olives and then a cold extraction process at the exact moment of maturity, which results in an oil with less than 0.3 percent acidity and robust flavors. Sancho’s arbequina extra virgin olive oil stands out for its smooth, delicate and light texture in the mouth. It has a sweet, fruity taste and remarkable green color. The mild flavor makes it versatile: Try it in salad dressings, sauces, pastries or use to finish dishes.
CALIFORNIA OLIVE RANCH EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL MARINADES
Upgrade your summer grilling with new extra virgin olive oil-based marinades from California Olive Ranch. These chef-inspired marinades start with California Olive Ranch’s award-winning extra virgin olive oil and are combined with clean, quality ingredients. The versatile marinades are globally inspired with bright, bold flavors and can be combined with your favorite proteins—think beef, chicken, shrimp and tofu—and fresh vegetables to create a tasty meal. Varieties include teriyaki, roasted garlic, Dijon and rosemary, chile lime verde and golden Thai.
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PathWater began in 2014 when three friends decided to help the environment by creating a business focused on reducing single-use plastic water bottles. Path’s unique aluminum bottles are produced with industry-leading thicker walls for superior durability, which allows you to refill the bottles over and over again! Path’s still water is ultra-purified with reverse osmosis filtered water with a crisp, clean taste. And now, Path has introduced its alkaline water, which is ultra-purified with a pH balance of 9.5+ and packed with electrolytes.
L&B BUNDT CAKES
Attention, cake lovers! We would like to introduce you to our new L&B Bundt Cakes. They’re perfectly sized for a small group of three or four people and are irresistible—just look at that mouthwatering icing dripping down the side! But it’s the flavors that will really snag your heart (and your stomach). The Chocolate with Fudge Icing and Lemon with Cream Cheese Icing varieties are available year round. Seasonally, we’ve got White Chocolate Raspberry with Cream Cheese Icing in early spring. In summer, we feature Lori Anne Peach Blueberry Bundt Cake with Cream Cheese Icing, and in the fall we’ll offer Country Apple with Cinnamon Icing. Look for Rich Red Velvet with Cream Cheese Icing in winter. Yum!
Q MIXERS BLOODY MARY AND MARGARITA MIXES
Q Mixers began with a question: “Shouldn’t my tonic be as good as my gin?” The answer—a resounding “yes!”—led founder Jordan Silbert to create a line of superior cocktail mixers with high-quality real ingredients and nothing artificial. The newest additions to the lineup are Spectacular Bloody Mary Mix and Spectacular Margarita Mix. The Bloody Mary mix is made with vine-ripened Roma tomatoes and a blend of seven herbs and spices for a bold, savory mix with the perfect amount of spice. The margarita mix combines tart Key lime juice with a drizzle of agave nectar to create a refreshing Margarita that’s not syrupy. Simply combine the mixer with your spirit of choice and enjoy over ice.
TATTOOED CHEF FROZEN MEALS
Eating plant-based sustainable foods just became much more convenient thanks to Sarah Galletti, the Tattooed Chef! Galletti saw a need for better, tastier plantbased options utilizing sustainably sourced ingredients, nearly all of which are grown in Italy. Fresh foods are picked at the height of their season and frozen fast to maintain nutrients and flavor, so you get the best ingredients out there. These frozen meals offer convenience without sacrificing quality, nutritional value or freshness. Varieties include: breakfast bowl with plant-based sausage, enchilada bowl, Buddha bowl, cauliflower mac and cheese bowl, veggie hemp bowl, and almond butter banana smoothie bowl. lundsandbyerlys.com real food 15
B BE ET TT TE ER R T TO OG GE ET TH HE ER R .. Whether you need a quick lunch or a convenient family dinner, there’s no Whether you need a quick lunch or a convenient family dinner, there’s no need to make reservations for a sushi feast. At Lunds & Byerlys, we partner need to make reservations for a sushi feast. At Lunds & Byerlys, we partner with Hissho Sushi to provide you with amazing sushi, made fresh daily. with Hissho Sushi to provide you with amazing sushi, made fresh daily. Restaurant quality and easy convenience are always better together. Restaurant quality and easy convenience are always better together. Find healthy options and convenient quality at lundsandbyerlys.com Find healthy options and convenient quality at lundsandbyerlys.com
The Hidden Protein
Turn to peas for a hearty and healthy plant-based protein boost BY SAMANTHA JOHNSON
PEAS ADOBE STOCK / VOLFF PEA PROTEIN ADOBE STOCK / GRINCHH
ong gone are the days of avoiding eating your peas and getting berated by your mother for doing so. Nutritionists have found a way to extract the protein and nutrients from peas and turn them into an easily accessible and extremely versatile powder. Naturally vegan, hypoallergenic, gluten free and dairy free, pea protein is taking the food industry by storm. You’ll see it as an ingredient in mass produced plant-based products such as veggie burgers, energy bars, crispy snacks and more to meet demand for healthier options in stores. Pea protein powder can provide a supplemental jolt of nutrition in most every recipe, too. Put it in smoothies post workout, add it to your baked goods like muffins or brownies, stir it into oatmeal or add it into your macaroni and cheese sauce. Pea protein is obtained by extracting the protein from green and yellow peas. The color isn’t the only thing that’s green about peas. Pea protein production is sustainable if it’s a non-GMO and organic product—meaning, there is no significant damage to air, water, land, forests, etc., when it’s made. Peas naturally create and return nitrogen into the soil where they’re grown, making them healthy to grow and eat. Pea protein also contributes to a reduction in food waste due to its long shelf life. Pea protein lends itself to those who are looking for an easily digestible, allergen-friendly protein. Along with being a substantial source of iron, pea protein may aid in weight management, support muscle growth and contribute to overall heart health. When used in place of other protein powders, users
note that pea protein blends well with water and has a less chalky taste and texture when compared to its whey counterpart. Just ¼ cup provides 8 grams of protein. As interest grows in vegetarian and vegan diets, pea protein provides yet another method of getting protein from a source other than meat. Brands are taking advantage of this interest by creating premade vegan products that are easily accessible. The brand No Cow offers vegan protein bars packed with pea protein, and Vega uses pea protein in its many flavors of plain and sport vegan protein powder. Meat substitutes like Beyond Meat use pea protein to aid those on restricted diets in getting the nutrients that they need to stay healthy. Egg allergies continue to be common in America, and another surprising use of pea protein is that it can be used as a functional and affordable replacement for eggs. Not to mention, one serving of dry peas has 186 mg less cholesterol than an egg. When you’re baking, pea protein can be used in place of the usually necessary eggs, as it provides emulsification for batter and gives cakes the same texture as eggs would. Generally, 1 unpacked scoop would approximately count for 2 eggs (check specific pea protein product labels). Depending on the flour used, water should be added as needed to get the appropriate batter/dough consistency. Pea protein also retains its nutrients after being cooked, so its heat-stable properties make it optimal for cooking and baking. Utilizing pea protein in the kitchen can make your recipes taste good and be good for you. n
Make Your Own Pea Protein MAKES ABOUT 4 (1/4-CUP) SERVINGS
Add pea protein into smoothies, baked goods, pancakes or whatever else you can think of for a boost of protein. You can also add it to soups and stews as a thickener. Put 1 cup of split peas (make sure they are completely dry) in a highspeed blender or food processor. Process or blend for 2 to 3 minutes or until the peas are powdered. Sift the powder over a bowl to separate out any large pieces. Repeat steps two and three until all the pieces are powdered. Store the pea powder in an airtight container and in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. You can also freeze it to keep longer.
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healthy habits Apples: The Original Health Food
Great Health Foods
Apples are a good source of soluble fiber, which can lower blood cholesterol and glucose levels. Fresh apples are also a good source of vitamin C, an antioxidant that protects your body’s cells from damage. Vitamin C also helps form the connective tissue collagen, keeps your capillaries and other blood vessels healthy and aids in the absorption of iron.
Easily add a nutritious punch to your diet with these recommended foods
Give your diet a healthy boost with these 10 health foods. They’re among your best bets for eating well because they meet at least three of the following criteria: n Good or excellent source of fiber, vitamins, minerals
and other nutrients n High in phytonutrients and antioxidant compounds,
such as vitamins A and E and beta carotene n May help reduce risk of heart disease and other
health conditions n Readily available
Always consult your health care provider if you have health concerns or before making any major dietary changes.
Go Blue! Scientists have shown that blueberries are loaded with compounds (phytonutrients) that may help prevent chronic diseases, such as heart disease, diabetes and some cancers. Blueberries may also improve shortterm memory and promote healthy aging. Blueberries are a low-calorie source of fiber and vitamin C: 3/4 cup of fresh blueberries has 2.7 grams of fiber and 10.8 milligrams of vitamin C.
Can’t Beat Broccoli
Almonds Make the List Almonds are packed with nutrients—fiber, riboflavin, magnesium, iron and calcium. A 1-ounce portion also provides over 30 percent of the Recommended Dietary Allowance (RDA) of vitamin E. And most of the fat in almonds is monounsaturated fat, a healthier type of fat that may help lower blood cholesterol levels.
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Besides being a good source of folate, broccoli also contains phytonutrients. Broccoli is also an excellent source of vitamin C, an antioxidant that protects your body’s cells from damage. It is also an excellent source of vitamin A and is linked to preserving eye health.
IMAGES ADOBE STOCK ALMONDS NIK MERKULOV APPLE B@RMALEY BLUEBERRIES ANDREY RADUL BROCCOLI NIK MERKULOV
COURTESY OF MAYO CLINIC
Popeye Knew the Power of Spinach
Make Friends with Beans Red beans—including small red beans and dark red kidney beans—are a good source of iron, phosphorus and potassium. They’re also an excellent low-fat source of protein and dietary fiber. Red beans also contain phytonutrients. Don’t like red beans? Substitute another kind to enjoy beans’ health benefits.
Spinach is high in vitamins A and C and folate. It’s also a good source of magnesium. The plant compounds in spinach may boost your immune system. The carotenoids found in spinach—beta carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin—also are protective against age-related vision diseases, such as macular degeneration, as well as heart disease and some types of cancer.
A Good Germ
BEANS YOTHINPI SALMON ALEXSTAR POTATOES AFRICA STUDIO SPINACH KOLESNIKOVSERG WHEAT GERM DULE964 TOMATO JUICE OLYINA
Desperately Seeking Salmon Salmon contains omega-3 fatty acids, a type of fat that makes your blood less likely to form clots that may cause heart attacks. Omega-3s may also protect against irregular heartbeats that may cause sudden cardiac death, and they help decrease triglyceride levels, decrease the growth of artery-clogging plaques and slightly lower blood pressure. In addition to containing omega-3s, salmon is low in saturated fat and cholesterol and is a good source of protein.
Sweet Potatoes Make the Cut The deep orangeyellow color of sweet potatoes tells you that they’re high in the antioxidant beta carotene. Food sources of beta carotene, which is converted to vitamin A in your body, may help slow the aging process and reduce the risk of some cancers. In addition to being an excellent source of vitamins A and C, sweet potatoes are a good source of fiber, vitamin B-6 and potassium. And like all vegetables, they’re relatively low in calories; one-half of a large sweet potato has just 81 calories.
Wheat germ is the part of the grain that’s responsible for the development and growth of the new plant sprout. Although only a small part, the germ contains many nutrients. It’s an excellent source of thiamine and a good source of folate, magnesium, phosphorus and zinc. The germ also contains protein, fiber and some fat. Try sprinkling some on your hot or cold cereal.
Drink to Good Health Vegetable juice has most of the vitamins, minerals and other nutrients found in the original vegetables (except some of the fiber) and is an easy way to include vegetables in your diet. Tomato juice and vegetable juices that include tomatoes contain lycopene, an antioxidant that may reduce the risk of prostate cancer. Some vegetable and tomato juices are very high in sodium, so be sure to select the lowsodium varieties. n
summer 2022 real food 19
Your Meals Optional meat or plant proteins bring flexibility and a little something for everyone to the table BY PAT CROCKER
re you hoping to explore new recipes that go beyond meat and potatoes? Do you rely on mostly plant-based meals but enjoy protein from animal sources once in a while? Would you like to increase healthy ingredients in your diet? Are you looking to increase summer fun time and decrease kitchen prep time? If you answered yes to one or more of these questions, you’re going to love our flexitarian recipe ideas. What is flexitarian, you might ask? It’s a relaxed, flexible approach to plant-based meals. Anyone moving closer to being vegetarian or vegan, but who sometimes consumes meat, poultry, eggs, milk or fish could be called flexitarian. But the term can also apply to people who identify as meat eaters yet choose meatless alternatives on either a random or a regular basis. Flexitarian recipes are designed to give fruit, vegetables, whole grains, herbs, nuts, seeds and legumes a staring role on the plate while assigning meat and dairy a cameo appearance. In the recipes that follow, we’ve given the nod to high-quality plant proteins such as nuts, seeds, legumes (peas, beans and lentils), tofu, tempeh and ancient grains in our flex recipes, and we’ve included a “flex option” and sometimes a “fast-flex option” that give you choices for adding smaller portions of an extra animal protein boost. There’s no better time to tip the scales toward a plant-based way of eating than in summer, when bright produce is at its peak and bursting with goodness and flavor. Take a look at how easy it is to offer flexibility and choice at summer mealtimes. PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
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r on fo of bac ing. e c i l s One rv ex se each fl
BLACK BEAN-MUSHROOM BURGERS (SEE RECIPE ON PAGE 28)
summer 2022 real food 21
ARUGULA AND ROASTED BEETS WITH STEAK, WALNUTS AND BLUE CHEESE
Add ¼ cu or chic p grilled ste ak slivers ken sl ive flex sa lad bo rs to each w l.
22 real food summer 2022
Arugula and Roasted Beets with Steak, Walnuts and Blue Cheese MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Summer greens–baby spinach, arugula, romaine, baby kale or Swiss chard–are peaking right now and this salad takes full advantage of them. Even without the flex meat suggestions, this salad offers the combination of animal protein (the cheese) supplemented by incomplete protein from the nuts and seeds. If you want even more plant-based protein, serve this over a bed of cooked quinoa or whole barley–two protein-rich grains that truly satisfy. 6 medium beets, trimmed and quartered 2 tablespoons olive oil 6 cups arugula or mixed tender greens ⅓ cup diagonally sliced green onions ½ cup coarsely chopped walnuts 1 cup coarsely crumbled nacho chips 3 ounces blue cheese, crumbled 2 tablespoons black or white sesame seeds (optional) ■ F L E X O PTIO N: ¼ cup per serving grilled steak or chicken slivers: 1 boneless cut of beef (See Cook’s Notes) or boneless chicken breast; 2 tablespoons olive oil; 1 tablespoon Tuscan or Italian seasoning ■ FAST FL E X O PTIO N: ¼ cup per serving thinly sliced rotisserie chicken or cubed deli smoked turkey or ham For the Salad Dressing
EDAMAME ADOBE STOCK / UCKYO
3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon toasted walnut or sesame oil ¼ cup red wine vinegar 2 medium cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary 1. Preheat grill to high or oven to 375°F. Arrange beet quarters in the center of a large sheet of aluminum foil and drizzle with olive oil. Bring the two long edges of foil together and pleat to enclose beets. Roll up the two side edges of foil so that the packet is sealed. Cook in preheated grill with the lid down or in the oven for 40 minutes or until beets are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife. Set aside to cool beets slightly. 2. For Steak Flex option: Keep grill or oven at high. Brush both sides with oil and
seasoning. Place steak on the grill and cook for 4 minutes. Turn and continue to grill for 3 to 5 minutes for rare (an internal temperature of 135°F) or longer for medium to medium-well. Remove, let sit for 5 minutes and cut into strips. FOR CH ICKEN FLEX O P T IO N: Reduce grill to medium or the oven to 350°F. Brush both sides with oil and seasoning. Place chicken on the grill and cook for 5 minutes; turn and continue to grill for 5 or 6 minutes or until the internal temperature reaches 160°F. To poach chicken on top of the stove, cover chicken with water in a saucepan. Bring water to a simmer over medium high heat and cook for 12 minutes or until the internal temperature reaches 160°F. Remove chicken from heat and let sit for 3 minutes then cut into strips. 3. Make the salad dressing: Combine all salad dressing ingredients in a jar with a lid. Set aside and shake well before tossing with salad. 4. Toss the arugula and onions together in a salad bowl. Drizzle salad dressing over and toss well to mix. Divide salad among 6 salad bowls. Top each bowl with roasted beets and sprinkle over walnuts, nacho chips, blue
cheese and sesame seeds if using. FLEX O P T IO NS: Add ¼ cup grilled steak slivers or chicken slivers to each flex salad bowl. FAST FLEX O P T IO NS: Add ¼ cup thinly sliced rotisserie chicken or deli cubed smoked turkey or ham to each flex salad bowl. Cook’s Notes: n Keep washed greens in an airtight bag or container in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator until you are ready to toss into the salad bowl. n You can roast the beets a day before but warm them slightly in the microwave, in the oven, or on the grill for maximum flavor. If you can find them, baby beets are really nice in this salad and you can use them whole. n Use Brie or creamy goat’s milk chevre in place of the blue cheese if desired. n Use boneless cuts of beef steak here so look for rib eye or New York strip cuts of beef for the flex option (about 8 ounces for two servings).
Flexitarian Pantry Staples Make meal-prep easy—stock up on these staples for vegetarian recipes: n canned legumes
n n n n
(beans such as chickpeas, black beans or pinto beans) dried or canned lentils; tofu, tempeh, edamame (fresh soy beans) brown rice, quinoa, or whole grain wheat or barley canned tomatoes natural almonds, walnuts hemp hearts
chia, flax, or sunflower seeds n plant-based milk or “mylk” (rice, almond, coconut, oat) n spirulina (an algae with about 8g protein in 2 tablespoons) n flavor-boosting ingredients such as tamari (or soy) sauce, miso, and nutritional yeast
For flavor spikes, turn to fresh herbs such as rosemary, thyme, basil, and parsley or take advantage of spice blends such as garam masala, Italian, Moroccan or French.
summer 2022 real food 23
Roasted Cauliflower-Mushroom-Chickpea Bowls MAKES 4 SERVINGS
½ cauliflower, florets cut into ¼-inch slices 2 cups (about 10 ounces) halved mushrooms 1 large yellow onion, quartered 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary 1 red pepper, cut into eighths
1 (14-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed ½ cup coarsely chopped walnuts 2 cups cooked quinoa or rice ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley ■ F LEX OPTIO N: ¼ cup per serving— pulled pork: 1 small (2–3 pounds) pork shoulder roast (see Cook’s Notes); olive oil; ¾ cup barbecue sauce; ½ cup chicken broth; ¼ cup apple cider vinegar; 1 onion, chopped; 2 cloves garlic, minced; 2 tablespoons molasses or honey; 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme (see Cook’s Notes) ■ FAST F LE X O P T IO N: ¼ cup per serving— cubed or strips cooked deli ham
A Word About Plant Protein They’re aptly named. The word “protein” comes from the Greek proteios, meaning “of first importance,” and that describes their role in the body. Proteins are the basic structure of all cells and are necessary for healthy growth, cell repair, reproduction and protection against disease. The building blocks of proteins are amino acids and there are nine essential amino acids that you must get from food (the other amino acids can be manufactured by your body). We give meat, dairy products (milk and cheese), eggs and fish emphasis because they conveniently contain all nine essential amino acids but plants also contain essential amino acids. The difference between plants and animals is that, except for quinoa, soybeans and soybean products (tofu and tempeh), buckwheat, and pistachio nuts, most plants don’t supply all nine amino acids in one package. Plants high in proteins such as nuts, seeds, legumes and lentils are missing one or more of the essential nine amino acids. Nutritionists have studied plants to determine which plants are missing an amino acid and which ones are high in particular amino acids and they’ve come up with a complementary way of combining two or three plants so that you get all nine essential amino acids in a dish. For example, rice + beans or peanut butter + whole wheat bread, or bean chili + corn nachos are combinations that when eaten together create a complete protein with all nine essential amino acids.
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1. For Pulled Pork flex option: Use a slow cooker or oven (preheat oven to 325°F if using). Lightly oil the slow cooker insert (or a Dutch oven with lid if using the oven) and add pork roast, rolling it over to lightly coat with oil. Whisk remaining ingredients together in a bowl and pour over roast. Cover and cook on High until the roast shreds easily with a fork, 5 to 6 hours (internal temperature should reach 205°F). Alternately, if using the oven, cook for 3 hours or until the roast reaches 205°F and shreds easily with a fork. Remove and set aside, covered until ready to use. When cool enough to handle, shred the meat using two forks and toss in any remaining liquid. If making pork ahead, let it cool and refrigerate in an airtight container up to 3 days. Freeze leftover pork for up to 2 months. 2. Preheat oven to 375°F and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange cauliflower, mushrooms and onions in a single layer on prepared baking sheet and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Sprinkle rosemary evenly over. Roast in preheated oven for 30 minutes. 3. Stir vegetables and add red pepper, chickpeas and walnuts. Drizzle with remaining oil and return to the oven. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes or until vegetables are soft and slightly charred. 4. Spoon quinoa into 4 bowls and spoon vegetables over. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon parsley over each bowl. FLEX O P T IO NS: Top each flex serving with ¼ cup pulled pork or deli ham strips. Cook’s Notes: n Generally the less-expensive, slightly tougher cuts such as pork shoulder or butt and loin work well using a moist, slow-cooked method, which tenderizes meat as it cooks. n To keep the kitchen cool, you could grill vegetables on a hot grill either in a sear grate or using aluminum foil. n Thyme’s bold flavor can withstand long cooking and you can team it with other herbs such as rosemary and sage. Don’t stop at parsley as a garnish, add chopped fresh rosemary, thyme, and sage for a real Italian taste.
RICE & BEANS ADOBE STOCK / NELEA REAZANTEVA
Big on flavor, this one-bowl dish makes a great outdoor meal. It’s easy to eat with one utensil (fork or spoon), it’s casual and comforting, and it’s a one-pan clean up for the cook. The chickpeas are the star plant protein and you can add chopped, hard-boiled egg or edamame to up the ante if you want. If adding the pork, using a slow cooker in summer helps to keep the kitchen cool, too.
ROASTED CAULIFLOWERMUSHROOMCHICKPEA BOWLS
g ervin flex s ork h c a e Top lled p up pu . with ¼ c strips m a h i l or de
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Cubed de ready- li kielbasa ( pr to-eat Polish epared, ham—¼ s aus cup pe r servin age) or g
Penne with Lentils, Broccoli and Pistachio Nuts MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Slow-simmered and caramelized onions in the sauce round out earthy and dense lentils, giving them nutty-sweet flavor. Lentils are high in fiber and protein and low in fat and calories, making them a perfect plant protein for many dishes, and pistachios add a complete protein boost. ½ cup red or green lentils (see Cook’s Notes) 2 cups water 2 teaspoons salt, divided 2 stalks broccoli, stems trimmed and florets quartered 2 tablespoons olive oil 26 real food summer 2022
2 large onions, chopped 3 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 3 cups dried penne pasta (see Cook’s Notes) 1 cup shelled pistachio nuts (see Sidebar) ■ F LEX OPTIO N: Large shrimp—4 per flex serving—or a small, boneless filet of white fish ■ FAST F LE X O P T IO N: Cubed deli kielbasa (prepared, ready-to-eat Polish sausage) or ham—¼ cup per serving
1. In a saucepan, combine lentils and water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer gently for 20 to 25 minutes, or until tender but not mushy. Remove from the heat, season with ½ teaspoon salt and set aside. 2. Meanwhile, heat oil in a large heavy skillet or saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring constantly for 1 minute. Reduce heat to low. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until onions are soft and moist. Remove the lid and increase heat to medium-high. Stir in ½ teaspoon salt, garlic and rosemary. Cook, stirring frequently for 5 to 7 minutes or until golden brown.
Being Soy Savvy What’s all the soybean hype about? Most importantly, soy is a nutrient-dense source of protein that provides a plant alternative to red and processed meat. Most nutritionists agree that including organic soy once or twice in your weekly meal plan is a good way to boost plant-based recipes. A quick guide to soy: n
Whole, dried soybeans may be used in recipes that call for dried beans. Soak and cook them following the directions for cooking dried chickpeas. Edamame is the name for fresh, salted soybeans often available in the pod. These are sometimes eaten as an appetizer or added as a garnish to dishes. Tofu is a bean curd made from soybeans available in a variety of forms ranging from soft to extra-firm. Use soft (silken) tofu for dips and sauces— drain it and simply add to the recipe as called for.
Extra-firm tofu is marinated and fried crisp as a “meaty” ingredient in all kinds of dishes from salad to chili, stir fried rice or vegetables, and stew. Be sure to press firm or extra-firm tofu before marinating and cooking it. To remove as much liquid as possible, use a tofu press or place the block of tofu on a plate, cover with another plate and stack several cans or books on the top plate. Press for at least 30 minutes, draining the liquid several times. On its own, tofu has no distinct flavor but it does have an incredible ability to absorb the flavors from spices, sauces or marinades. After pressing, cut the block into 1-inch cubes and place in a bowl. Cover with bottled teriyaki, peanut or sweet ginger sauce. You can also make your own marinade using lemon juice, soy sauce, chopped garlic, ginger, rosemary or Moroccan spice blends for an intense flavor spike. Marinate tofu for 60 minutes or cover the bowl and marinate in the refrigerator overnight. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add marinated tofu cubes to the pan in one layer. Fry for 2 or 3 minutes or until crisp. Turn using tongs and fry on the opposite side for another 2 minutes or until crisp. n
TOFU ADOBE STOCK / IMAGESMY
PENNE WITH LENTILS, BROCCOLI AND PISTACHIO NUTS
3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 teaspoon salt and the broccoli. Cook for 3 minutes or until crisp-tender. Lift out of the pot using tongs or a large slotted spoon and into a colander. Rinse with cool water and set aside to drain. 4. Bring the water back to a boil. Add pasta and remaining salt to the boiling water. Cook, stirring once, for about 7 minutes or until al dente. Reserve about 1 cup pasta cooking water and drain pasta. Rinse with cool water and drain well. 5. Add lentils and their cooking liquid to the onions in the skillet. Add drained broccoli and pasta and enough of the reserved cooking water to keep pasta and vegetables moist. Cook for about 1 minute, stirring constantly
Tempeh is a fermented soy food that has been cultured with beneficial bacteria. It’s often marinated in simple sauce (½ cup soy sauce, 2 tablespoons honey and 1 tablespoon each chopped ginger and garlic). Marinate coarsely diced tempeh for at least 1 hour before adding to chili, soup, stir-fry or stew.
until pasta is mixed in and heated through. 6. For Shrimp Flex option: Clean and shell shrimp. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add shrimp and cook, turning shrimp every 30 seconds, for about 3 minutes or until shrimp are bright pink. Remove and cut each shrimp into 3 pieces. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add fish and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Turn using tongs and cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until fish turns opaque and flakes easily with a fork. 7. Divide pasta mixture evenly among 6 bowls and sprinkle over pistachio nuts. Top FOR WH IT EF ISH FLEX O P T IO N:
each flex serving with 4 shrimp, cut in large pieces or ¼ cup flaked fish. Cook’s Notes: n Save time by using 1 can (14 ounces) red or green lentils, drained and rinsed in place of the dried lentils and water and skip step 1. n Use any short, stubby pasta in this dish such as fusilli (screw-shaped), rigatoni, conchigliette (shells), fiorelli (tubes), or macaroni because their swirls and spiral pockets efficiently trap sauce. n Any of the mild-tasting whitefish species such as cod, grouper, Alaska pollock, haddock, or halibut may be used in this recipe.
summer 2022 real food 27
3 1 1 6 1 1 1 ½ 1 ¾ 2 2 ½ ■
Black BeanMushroom Burgers
Bruschetta with Olive Tapenade
MAKES 6 BURGERS | PHOTO ON PAGE 21
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Nothing says summer like burgers on the grill. Our plant-based burgers are “meaty” thanks to the mushrooms and black beans. You get a protein spike from the beans and the brown rice and benefit from another 10 grams of plant protein by adding a couple tablespoons of hemp hearts.
The temperature’s rising and we’re inclined to spend less time in the kitchen and more time on the patio or lounge chair. Easy and packed with sun-ripened flavor, this is one appetizer that appeals to vegetarians and satisfies meat-lovers while sparing the cook. For more plant protein, swap in a bean paste such as hummus for the tapenade.
tablespoons olive oil, divided onion, chopped cup chopped mushrooms cloves garlic, finely chopped zucchini, chopped tablespoon Italian seasoning (see Cook’s Notes) small beet, shredded cup salted cashews (15-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed cup cooked short grain brown rice tablespoons Dijon mustard tablespoons hemp hearts (see Cook’s Notes) cup large flake rolled oats F L E X O PTIO N: 1 slice bacon for each flex serving
1. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Cook onion, stirring frequently for 3 minutes or until softened. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently for 3 minutes. Add remaining olive oil, garlic, zucchini, seasoning and beet and cook for 5 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Set aside to cool. 2. Combine cashews and beans in the bowl of a food processor and pulse for
30 seconds or until chopped. Scrape cooled onion mixture into the food processor bowl. Add about half of the brown rice, the mustard and hemp hearts. Pulse for 30 seconds or until mixed together. Stir in rolled oats. 3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and heat the oven to 350°F. Scrape mixture into a large bowl and add remaining rice and hemp hearts. Using your hands, shape into six 3-inch patties and place on prepared baking sheet. Bake in preheated oven for 35 minutes and then flip over. Bake another 5 to 10 minutes or until patties are firm to the touch and browned overall. Let stand for 3 to 5 minutes before serving. Cook’s Notes: n Plant-based burgers may be cooked on the grill but handle with extra care—don’t place them directly on the grill. Instead, use a barbecue sear grate or heavy aluminum foil to cook them and turn them once only. n Hemp hearts act as a binder in holding the mixture together but as a substitute, you can use 2 tablespoons chia seeds or ground flax seeds mixed with ¼ cup water to act as an emulsifier.
n u t r i t i o n (p e r s e r v i n g) BLACK BEAN-MUSHROOM BURGERS WITH BACON CALORIES: 300, FAT: 16G (SAT: 3 G), CHOLESTEROL: 10 MG, SODIUM: 580 MG, CARB: 31G, FIBER: 5G, SUGAR: 4G, PROTEIN: 11G
ROASTED CAULIFLOWERMUSHROOM-CHICKPEA BOWLS CALORIES: 390, FAT: 22G (SAT: 3G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 300 MG, CARB: 40G, FIBER: 11G, SUGAR: 10G, PROTEIN: 14G
ARUGULA AND ROASTED BEETS WITH STEAK, WALNUTS AND BLUE CHEESE CALORIES: 343, FAT: 24G (SAT: 6 G), CHOLESTEROL: 46 MG, SODIUM: 330 MG, CARB: 15G, FIBER: 4G, SUGAR: 7G, PROTEIN: 33G
PENNE WITH LENTILS, BROCCOLI AND PISTACHIO NUTS WITH KIELBASA CALORIES: 490, FAT: 25G (SAT: 5G), CHOLESTEROL: 2 MG, SODIUM: 580 MG, CARB: 55G, FIBER: 8G, SUGAR: 6G, PROTEIN: 22G
28 real food summer 2022
BRUSCHETTA WITH OLIVE TAPENADE WITH PROSCIUTTO CALORIES: 340, FAT: 16G (SAT: 2.5G), CHOLE S TEROL : 5 MG , SODIUM: 1270 MG , C ARB: 41G , FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 2G, PROTEIN: 10G
1 baguette or country loaf of bread, sliced crosswise into 1-inch slices 2 medium tomatoes, thinly sliced fresh basil leaves (optional) extra olive oil for drizzling ■ FAST FLEX O P T IO N: Shredded prosciutto, deli turkey or ham— 2 tablespoons per serving For the Tapenade
¾ ½ ¼ 2 1
cup sliced green olives, drained cup sliced black olives, drained cup flat parsley leaves cloves garlic tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil
1. Combine tapenade ingredients in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse about 7 times, stop and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Pulse 4 to 6 times, watching carefully so that the mixture is chopped but not pureed. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. 2. Preheat grill or oven to 375°F. Grill bread slices for about 45 seconds or until golden, flip and grill on opposite side about 30 seconds or until toasted. 3. Spread tapenade over grilled bread slices. Top each slice with a slice of tomato and a basil leaf if using. Drizzle with ½ teaspoon olive oil. Grind salt and pepper over. FAST FLEX O P T IO N: Omit the tomato and top each flex grilled bruschetta slice with tapenade, 2 tablespoons shredded prosciutto, and basil leaf if using. Drizzle with ½ teaspoon olive oil. Grind salt and pepper over. Cook’s Note: n It’s easy to make the tapenade but you can also use a prepared one—look for tapenade in the condiments section. n
BRUSCHETTA WITH OLIVE TAPENADE
Shredd ed pro sc turkey or ham iutto, deli —2 tab per ser lespoons ving
summer 2022 real food 29
Glorious Take leafy greens way beyond salads BY ROBIN ASBELL
he wide world of leafy green vegetables is one of delectable flavors and deeply nutritious meals. Leaves such as kale and spinach are some of the most nutrient-dense foods you can get. They are high in fiber, low calorie, and each variety of leafy green offers its own balance of nutrients. In general, most deliver much needed vitamins K, A and C, along with calcium and iron. They are also rich in antioxidants—but usually a bargain at the checkout. If you grew up eating steamed spinach as a side dish, or the occasional romaine salad, it may be time to expand your experience and try cooking with other greens including kale, collards and broccoli raab. We’re dishing up these delicious ideas. PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
30 real food summer 2022
ARUGULA PASTA SALAD WITH LEMON-ROSEMARY CHICKEN
Arugula Pasta Salad with Lemon-Rosemary Chicken MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Curly cavatappi and peppery arugula combine forces in a creamy pasta salad that will be a hit at picnics and barbecues. Serve it spread out in a large serving bowl, with the chicken spread on top for a dramatic presentation, or just toss it and pack it in containers for transport. 1 pound chicken breast 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, minced 1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest 1 teaspoon salt, divided 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 pound cavatappi pasta ¼ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup plain nonfat Greek yogurt 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 32 real food summer 2022
4 ½ 1 ½
ounces arugula, coarsely chopped cup sliced red onion cup grape tomatoes, halved cup shredded Parmesan cheese
1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment and reserve. Put on a large pot of salted water to boil for the pasta. 2. Trim chicken breasts and cut each in ½-inch slices, across the grain and place in a large bowl. Mix the rosemary, lemon zest
and ½ teaspoon salt and sprinkle over the chicken, then drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, toss to coat. Spread on the prepared pan, then bake for about 10 minutes, until the chicken reaches 160°F on an instant read thermometer. Cool on a rack. 3. Cook the pasta as directed on the package, about 9 minutes. Drain and rinse. 4. In a large bowl, combine the mayonnaise, yogurt, lemon juice and remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and stir to mix. Add the cooked pasta, arugula, red onion, grape tomatoes and Parmesan and toss to mix. 5. Place the pasta salad in a large serving bowl and top with chicken to serve.
Spinach Tabouli MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Tabouli is a Middle Eastern salad made with whole-grain bulgur and usually a few handfuls of fresh parsley. In this version, sweet, tender spinach takes the place of parsley for a bright green salad that can even serve as a light meal on its own. 1 ¼ 2 6 ½ ½ ½
cup bulgur teaspoon salt cups water tablespoons lemon juice cup extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 4 cups (one 4-ounce package) baby spinach, packed, minced
1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped 1 large red bell pepper, chopped 3/4 ounce fresh mint leaves, minced 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 1. In a small pot, bring the water to a boil, then add the bulgur and salt and return to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and
cook for 15 minutes. When all the water is absorbed, take off the heat, fluff with a fork, and let cool. This can be made a day ahead and refrigerated, tightly covered. 2. In a large bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper, and stir to combine. Add the bulgur and toss to mix. 3. Add the spinach, cucumber, pepper, mint and chickpeas, and mix well. 4. Serve at room temperature, or chill for up to 3 days.
AVOCADO-FISH TACOS WITH KALE SLAW
34 real food summer 2022
Avocado-Fish Tacos with Kale Slaw MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Fish tacos are a So-Cal classic, usually served with a cabbage slaw. In this veggie-rich version, slivered kale makes a fantastic, deep green slaw, and avocados add some creaminess. The sauce is optional–you may not feel you need anything more. 8 16 ½ ½ 2 1 ½
(6-inch) corn tortillas ounces tilapia or cod teaspoon paprika teaspoon salt teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil large avocado, cubed cup cilantro, chopped
For the Kale Slaw
2 cups shredded kale ¼-½ cup mayonnaise 4 tablespoons chopped scallion 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice ½ teaspoon salt 1 large jalapeño, seeded and minced
For the Sauce
4 4 ½ 4 ½
tablespoons mayonnaise tablespoons plain Greek yogurt teaspoon salt tablespoons fresh lime juice teaspoon ground chipotle
1. Make sauce, if desired: In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, yogurt, salt, lime juice and chipotle. Stir and scrape into a cup for drizzling. 2. Wrap the tortillas in foil and warm in a 350°F oven for 15 minutes, or place on a plate, cover loosely with a paper towel and warm in the microwave for 30 seconds just before serving.
3. Make slaw by combining the kale, mayo, scallion, lime juice, salt and jalapeño, toss to mix and let stand at room temperature while you prepare the tacos. 4. Cut the fish into ½- to 3/4-inch cubes, place in a large bowl and sprinkle with paprika and salt, reserve. In a large skillet, drizzle the olive oil and place the pan over medium-high heat. Add the fish cubes and stir. Sprinkle with paprika and salt and you stir, reducing the heat to medium as the cubes start to sizzle. When the fish is white and starting to flake, about 3 minutes, cut a piece in half to make sure it’s opaque; cook a little longer (about 1 to 2 minutes) if still raw in the center. 5. Divide the fish mixture among four corn tortillas, sprinkle with avocado and cilantro and top with sauce, alongside about ¼ cup slaw per taco. Serve immediately.
WORLD OF GREENS ADOBE STOCK / SIMON GURNEY
A World of Greens Smart cooks in every culinary tradition have been creating meals from leaves since pre-history. Back when humans were hunter-gatherers, figuring out which leaves were good to eat would have been an essential skill, and edible leaves would be a forager’s snack. We have been cultivating them for at least 2,000 years, selecting the traits we enjoy, and every region of the world has favorites. Over all that time, cooks have also gotten really good at making them delicious. And thanks to our diversity, Americans have access to many greens of the world. In China, bok choy, gai lan, choy sum and amaranth are popular greens you may find in the local market. Stir-frying, simmering and above all, pickling are common ways of preparing “leafies,” and salted, pickled greens are added to many dishes.
In Africa, sorrel, collards, taro, cassava and sweet potato leaves are just a few of the many varieties of leafy greens eaten. The low-and-slow stewing of greens that we associate with Southern cookery came from African traditions. In India, spinach, water spinach, mustard greens, fenugreek leaves, purslane and nettles are some standouts
in a crowded field of greens. They are enhanced by the nuanced spice combinations of Indian cooks, and a famous dish, saag paneer, originated in the Punjab, resembling creamed spinach, with cheese. In Mexico, chard, beet greens, watercress, squash leaves, lamb’s quarters and amaranth are popular sautéed, or cooked in stews and soups.
summer 2022 real food 35
Jerk-Rubbed Chicken with Curried Collard Greens MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Chicken leg quarters are affordable and flavorful and deserve to get more play on your menus. Here, the meat is slashed so it will get a good coating of spices and to cook more quickly. The curried collards add a creamy counterpoint to the spicy chicken and have enough lush sauce to enliven a side of rice or flatbreads. 1 1 1 2 1 ½ ½ ½ 1 6 2 1
teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon ground black pepper teaspoon ground cloves teaspoons dried thyme teaspoon paprika teaspoon ground nutmeg teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon cayenne teaspoon salt chicken leg quarters tablespoons avocado oil, divided medium lime, juiced
For the Greens
2 1 2 2 1
cups coconut milk bunch (about 6) scallions, chopped cloves garlic, chopped tablespoons curry powder large jalapeño, seeded and chopped 1 bunch collard greens, stemmed and slivered, reserve stems for another use
36 real food summer 2022
1 medium red bell pepper, thinly sliced ¾ teaspoon salt 1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Spread ½ tablespoon avocado oil on a baking pan large enough to hold the chicken quarters. 2. In a medium bowl, combine the spices and salt. Mix well. 3. For chicken, use a sharp paring knife to cut slashes into the meat, to the bone, in a couple of places on each leg and thigh. Sprinkle lime juice over the chicken and rub it in, then the spice mixture. Rub it into the slashes.
Place the chicken on the prepared baking sheet and drizzle with remaining 1½ tablespoons oil. Roast for 20 minutes, until a thick part of the thigh registers 160°F on a meat thermometer and the juices run clear when pierced. 4. For the Greens: Place a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and pour in the coconut milk. Stir in the scallions, garlic and curry powder, and bring to a low boil. Add the jalapeño, collards, red bell pepper and salt and stir until the greens wilt and turn dark green. Reduce the heat to medium-low and stir frequently for about 8 minutes, until the greens are very tender. Serve about ¼ cup of the greens on each plate, topped with a leg quarter.
JERK-RUBBED CHICKEN WITH CURRIED COLLARD GREENS
SALMON AND BROCCOLI RAAB PAN BAGNAT
Salmon and Broccoli Raab Pan Bagnat MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Pan bagnat is French for “bathed bread,” and refers to the way the vinaigrette soaks into the bread as it sits under a weight. The French classic is usually made with tuna, but here we use salmon and add a hefty portion of leafy greens. Peppery radishes and fragrant basil make this a sandwich to remember. 3 cups broccoli raab (or sub Tuscan kale), coarsely chopped 1 (6-ounce) can salmon, drained 3 medium red radishes, thinly sliced 2 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped ½ cup grape tomatoes, sliced 2 tablespoons kalamata olives, sliced 1 cup fresh basil, slivered 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic, chopped or pressed ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 (1-pound) loaf ciabatta 1. Set a steamer over simmering water. Steam raab about 2 minutes. Drain, spread on a clean kitchen towel and roll up to dry completely.
2. Break up the salmon into a large bowl and add the cooled greens. Add radish, eggs, tomatoes, olives and basil. 3. In a cup, whisk the red wine vinegar, olive oil, garlic, salt and red pepper flakes, and pour over the salmon mixture, and toss to mix. Let marinate at room temperature while you slice the bread. 4. Split the loaf lengthwise. Carefully tear out about ½ cup from the center of the bread to make room for the filling. Place on a large sheet of waxed paper or plastic wrap. Stuff the filling into the bread, close it, and wrap tightly. Place the loaf under a weight like a cast iron pan for about 15 minutes, then refrigerate until time to serve. It can be made up to 2 days ahead. To serve, slice into 4 or 6 portions. n
nutrition (p e r s e r v i n g) ARUGULA PASTA SALAD WITH LEMONROSEMARY CHICKEN C A LO R I E S : 5 2 0 , FAT: 1 7G (S AT: 3 . 5 G) , CHOLESTEROL: 65 MG, SODIUM: 620 MG, CARB: 62G, FIBER: 4G, SUGAR: 5G, PROTEIN: 32G SPINACH TABOULI C A L O R I E S : 3 4 0 , FAT: 2 0 G ( S AT: 3 G ) , CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 390 MG, CARB: 36G, FIBER: 7G, SUGAR: 3G, PROTEIN: 7G AVOCADO-FISH TACOS WITH KALE SLAW C A LO R I E S : 3 70, FAT: 28 G (S AT: 4 . 5 G) , CHOLESTEROL: 50 MG, SODIUM: 860 MG, CARB: 13G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 1G, PROTEIN: 19G JERK-RUBBED CHICKEN WITH CURRIED COLLARD GREENS C A LO R I E S : 5 2 0 , FAT: 4 3 G (S AT: 2 3 G) , CHOLESTEROL: 105 MG, SODIUM: 810 MG, CARB: 17G, FIBER: 9G, SUGAR: 5G, PROTEIN: 24G SALMON AND BROCCOLI RAAB PAN BAGNAT C A LO R I E S : 28 0, FAT: 10 G (S AT: 1 . 5 G) , CHOLESTEROL: 85 MG, SODIUM: 670 MG, CARB: 31G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 2G, PROTEIN: 15G
summer 2022 real food 37
Hygge Delight in the ﬂavorful and naturally beautiful food of Scandinavia this season RECIPES BY BRONTË AURELL
nderstanding the concept of lagom (not too much, not too little, but just right) is to appreciate that the spirit of Scandinavian countries is based around ensuring that everything they do is in balance. Eating well and balanced are concepts Danish cook and restaurateur Brontë Aurell brings together in her book, “ScandiKitchen Midsommar: Simply Delicious Food for Summer Days,” to produce good food with respect to both tradition and modern trends in healthy eating. Balance a love of cake with fresh salads, for example. Follow a heavy lunch with a light dinner. And open sandwiches on ﬁber-rich rye bread means they don’t skimp on the mayo. Scandinavians’ summer food is perfect for enjoying outdoors, whether relaxing in the garden with friends or on a family picnic, evoking a magical sense of summer hygge. This concept (pronounced “hoog-uh”) is more than winter’s candles and cozy time indoors; summer hygge means enjoying the great outdoors—and what better way to illustrate this Danish word that describes a mood of comfortable conviviality with feelings of wellness and contentment than to enjoy a delicious meal with those you hold dear? The following recipes from Aurell’s book will give you a taste of these Scandinavian concepts and new dishes to try. –mary subialka
38 real food summer 2022
Beef Lindström Burgers
My Summer Slaw
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS AS A SIDE DISH
One of the most famous burgers in Sweden, the biff à la Lindström is named after Henrik Lindström, a prominent industrialist with Swedish parents, who grew up in St. Petersburg in Russia. On holidays in Sweden, he taught the chef at his hotel how to make this burger with capers and beet. It became a hit across the country—and rightly so as the combination is super-nice. The traditional way of serving these is without the bun and with potatoes on the side. We used to make it like this at home, until my burger-loving kids suggested we add a bun and have it with coleslaw one sunny day. Sometimes, having Anglo-Scandinavian children who are not bound by “how things are usually done in Scandinavia” means we can find new ways of enjoying old classics. The patties are quite fragile, so be aware of this if you plan to grill them. –brontë aurell
If you ask me, the secret to a good slaw is lightly pickling the cabbage base before adding a punchy, flavorful dressing. –brontë aurell
18 1 3½ 1½ 2 1 4 1 4
ounces ground beef Pinch of salt onion, ﬁnely chopped ounces pickled beet, ﬁnely chopped ounces pickled cucumber or gherkins, ﬁnely chopped tablespoons capers, roughly chopped medium cooked white potato (approx. 3 ounces), peeled and roughly mashed egg yolks teaspoon Dijon mustard Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Olive oil or canola oil and butter, for frying eggs, to serve
Seeded rye burger buns or buns of your choice, toasted My Summer Slaw (recipe at right) Condiments of your choice 1. Put the ground beef and salt in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. Mix for around 1 minute on medium speed. Alternatively, you can mix for a little longer in a large bowl with a wooden spoon. 2. Add the onion, beet, pickled cucumber or gherkins, capers, cooked potato, egg yolks and mustard. Season with salt and black pepper. Mix again until all the ingredients are evenly incorporated (but not too long or the burger will become tough). 3. Shape the mixture into four burgers and leave them to rest for 30 minutes in the fridge before frying. 4. Heat the oven to 250°F. 5. Heat the oil and butter in a skillet. Fry the burgers (in batches if needed, depending on the size of your pan) over a high heat for about 3 to 4 minutes on each side, depending on how you like your beef to be cooked. 6. Once cooked, pop the beef patties in the oven to keep warm and fry the eggs sunny-side up in the same skillet. 7. Serve each beef patty on a lightly toasted burger bun with the fried egg on top. Serve with My Summer Slaw and condiments on the side. 40 real food summer 2022
For the Cabbage Base
5 1 2 ⅓ ⅓ 3 ½
cups shredded white and red cabbage red onion large (or 3 smaller) carrots cup plus 1 tablespoon water cup plus 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar generous tablespoons powdered sugar teaspoon salt
For the Dressing
3 3 1 1 1 ½ 1
generous tablespoons mayonnaise tablespoons buttermilk tablespoon powdered sugar teaspoon Dijon mustard teaspoon white wine vinegar (only if needed) teaspoon celery salt teaspoon grated fresh horseradish or horseradish sauce Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste To Serve
3 scallions, sliced ½ cup toasted, chopped walnuts ¼ cup pumpkin seeds 1. Place the shredded white and red cabbage in a large bowl. Finely slice the red onion into half rounds, and then grate (or julienne, if you can be bothered) the carrots and add both to the bowl. 2. In another bowl or pitcher, mix together the water, white wine vinegar, powdered sugar and salt. Pour over the cabbage, then cover the bowl and shake well. Leave for at least one hour, ideally two—shake it once in a while. 3. Press the cabbage free of excess vinegar liquid and leave in a strainer until excess vinegar has drained. The cabbage will now be softer and the onion appear almost a little cooked. Make sure the vinegar is well pressed out or the end result will be too acidic. 4. Mix together the ingredients for the dressing. Mix the dressing with the slaw and taste—it should be a bit tangy. If not, add a teaspoon extra of vinegar (this depends how much of the pickle juice was pressed out—it is easier to add a bit than remove if too much). 5. Just before serving, fold in the scallions and toasted chopped walnuts. Sprinkle over the pumpkin seeds for extra crunch. This coleslaw is extra delicious on days two and three—when it will be pink (if you have used red cabbage).
BEEF LINDSTRÖM BURGERS
summer 2022 real food 41
Open Sandwiches The Danish national dish is arguably the humble open sandwich, although they are big in both Sweden and Norway, too. In every town in Denmark you can find restaurants and specialty shops serving open sandwiches that look like little works of art. When making them at home, use good quality ingredients (as everything will be on show), and do try to get a well-balanced topping by incorporating protein, crunch, fresh notes and creamy indulgent flavors. Here, I’ve included a mixture of some traditional and less traditional recipes. Two per person makes for a good lunch, but you could also create smaller ones as canapés or lighter bites. —brontë aurell
CHICKEN OPEN SANDWICH
RARE STEAK OPEN SANDWICH 42 real food summer 2022
Chicken Open Sandwiches
Rare Steak Open Sandwiches
MAKES 2 OPEN SANDWICHES
MAKES 2 OPEN SANDWICHES
This works just as well in a two-slice sandwich as it does on an open sandwich, but I just love serving this chicken topping in our café with the beautiful sprouted fennel seeds on top. –brontë aurell
In Denmark, thinly sliced roast beef is traditionally served on open sandwiches, but I love using thick slices of rare steak instead. –brontë aurell
2 slices sourdough or seeded crusty bread A little cream cheese or butter, for spreading 4–6 slices cucumber, shaved very thinly lengthways on a mandoline Sprouted fennel seeds, to serve (see Editor’s Note) For the Chicken Mixture
7 ounces cooked chicken (I favor thigh or leg meat), shredded or cut into pieces Handful of small green peas, podded, then blanched Small ¼ bulb fennel, thinly sliced ⅓ cup crème fraîche 1 tablespoon mayonnaise 1 scallion, sliced 1 tablespoon freshly chopped mint 1 teaspoon freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard Dash of vinegar Freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1. Mix the ingredients for the chicken topping together and season to taste with salt and pepper. 2. Lightly toast your slices of bread and spread both with a little cream cheese or butter. Arrange the slices of cucumber on top. Spoon the chicken mixture over and scatter with the sprouted fennel seeds to serve. Editor’s Note: If sprouted fennel seeds are not available, you could substitute with another sprout of choice and/or a sprinkle of fennel seeds.
2 slices of dark rye bread, buttered Handful of mache or Bibb lettuce 7 ounces rare steak in the cut of your choice (cold or just rested), cut into thick slices 4 slices pickled cucumber 2 large tablespoons Remoulade Sauce (recipe below, or store-bought) Grated fresh horseradish or horseradish sauce Crispy Onion Rings (see below or store-bought) Freshly chopped parsley, to garnish For the Crispy Onion Rings
1 2 ½
tablespoon all-purpose flour small onions, sliced into rings cup vegetable oil, for frying Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. To make the crispy onion rings, put the ﬂour in a plastic sandwich bag and season with salt and pepper. Add the onions and shake until coated. Discard excess ﬂour. 2. Fill a small saucepan one third of the way up with vegetable oil. Heat the oil to 265–285°F. If the oil is too hot, your onions will burn, and if it is too cold they will be soggy, so take care with this. 3. Add a third of the onions to the hot oil and cook for a few minutes or until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Repeat the frying process twice more with the rest of the onions. 4. Top both slices of the buttered rye bread with your salad leaves. Arrange the slices of steak on the bread, then add pickled cucumber slices and a dollop of remoulade sauce to each. Add the horseradish and pile on the crispy onions. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with chopped parsley to ﬁnish.
Remoulade ⅓ cup ﬁnely chopped raw carrots ⅓ cup ﬁnely chopped raw cauliﬂower ¼ cup white cabbage, chopped ¼ cup chopped gherkin 1 tablespoon capers 1 tablespoon chopped shallot 1 teaspoon freshly chopped chives ⅔ cup mayonnaise
⅓ ½ 1 1 1 1 1
cup crème fraîche teaspoon mild curry powder teaspoon ground turmeric teaspoon whole grain mustard teaspoon white wine vinegar teaspoon fresh lemon juice tablespoon powdered sugar, to taste Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
To make the remoulade sauce, mix all the ingredients together and leave in the fridge for the ﬂavors to mingle for at least 30 minutes before serving. The sauce will keep for around 4 to 5 days in the fridge. (Note that store-bought remoulade can be much sweeter, so add more sugar if you prefer this version).
summer 2022 real food 43
Dill Pesto Potato Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS AS A SIDE
Sometimes, normal pesto gets a bit boring! You may think that dill is too strong for a pesto like this, but it’s not. It is super-easy to make and from one portion there will be leftovers to use in sandwiches (it goes well with chicken)—or you can even use it as a topping for salmon fillets before you pop them in the oven. Serve these potatoes as part of your summer barbecue. –brontë aurell 18 ounces cooked skin-on new potatoes, cooled slightly For the Dill Pesto
1 1 ½ ⅔ 2
large bunch of fresh dill tablespoon freshly chopped parsley garlic clove cup walnuts ounces Västerbotten cheese, grated (or another hard cheese with a deep flavor) ¼–⅓ cup extra-virgin or good quality olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
DILL PESTO POTATO SALAD
1. In a food processor, combine the dill, parsley, garlic and walnuts and pulse to roughly chop. Add three-quarters of the grated cheese and ¼ cup of the oil and pulse again until you have a finely chopped paste. 2. Remove from the food processor and add the rest of the cheese (if needed) and more oil until you have a pesto consistency (not too runny, but liquid enough that it can be used as a dressing). Taste and season with salt and black pepper. 3. Put the cooked potatoes and a few tablespoons of the pesto in a bowl. Mix until potatoes are well coated. You may need to add more pesto to taste.
Potato Salad with Skyr Dressing SERVES 4 AS A SIDE
I love skyr—it’s naturally very low in fat and full of protein. It is a very old-fashioned dairy product that has been made in Iceland for over a thousand years, and in recent years, has gained popularity across the globe. It’s served in a similar way to yogurt, and you can add toppings if you want to just eat it like that. It’s cheap and filling without being too full of fat. Here’s a creamy potato salad with skyr, in this recipe you can use plain quark if you can’t find no-added-sugar plain skyr. –brontë aurell ½ red onion, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons freshly chopped chives a large handful of podded broad/fava beans (cooked and cold) 21–25 ounces cooked skin-on new potatoes, cold For the Skyr Dressing
1⅓ 1 1 1 1–2
cups skyr or plain quark (see Editor’s Note) tablespoon Dijon mustard dollop of mayonnaise (optional, see Cook’s Note) tablespoon honey tablespoon(s) apple cider vinegar, to taste Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
44 real food summer 2022
1. Mix together the dressing ingredients and taste, adjusting the seasoning if necessary. Add the onion, chives and beans. 2. Cut the potatoes into bite-sized pieces and add to the dressing. Stir and serve. Cook’s Note: The addition of mayonnaise does add a hint of creaminess to this potato salad. If you are serving this with something quite light, you can probably afford to add the mayo—but if serving it with something fatty, I would usually leave it out. Editor’s Note: Substitutes for quark are cottage cheese, ricotta cheese, Greek yogurt, mascarpone cheese, sour cream, cream cheese and crème fraîche. n
POTATO SALAD WITH SKYR DRESSING
n u t r i t i o n (p e r s e r v i n g) BEEF LINDSTRÖM BURGERS (BURGER AND BUN ONLY) CALORIES: 510, FAT: 23G (SAT: 8G), CHOLESTEROL: 440 MG, SODIUM: 630 MG, CARB: 36G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 7G, PROTEIN: 39G MY SUMMER SLAW CALORIES: 210, FAT: 15G (SAT: 5 G), CHOLESTEROL: <5 MG, SODIUM:
380 MG, CARB: 15G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 10G, PROTEIN: 5G CHICKEN OPEN SANDWICHES (PER SANDWICH) CALORIES: 530, FAT: 32G (SAT: 15 G), CHOLESTEROL: 140 MG, SODIUM: 350 MG, CARB: 23G, FIBER: 4G, SUGAR: 6G, PROTEIN: 36G
RARE STEAK SANDWICHES CALORIES: 500, FAT: 34G (SAT: 12 G), CHOLESTEROL: 90 MG, SODIUM: 620 MG, CARB: 20G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 3G, PROTEIN: 30G DILL PESTO POTATO SALAD CALORIES: 340, FAT: 26G (SAT: 5 G), CHOLESTEROL: 10 MG, SODIUM:
900 MG, CARB: 2G, FIBER: <1G, SUGAR: 2G, PROTEIN: 7G POTATO SALAD WITH SKYR DRESSING CALORIES: 260, FAT: 5G (SAT: 1.5 G), CHOLESTEROL: 10 MG, SODIUM: 150 MG, CARB: 13G, FIBER: 1G, SUGAR: 11G, PROTEIN: 13G
RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “SCANDIKITCHEN MIDSOMMAR: SIMPLY DELICIOUS FOOD FOR SUMMER DAYS” BY BRONTË AURELL © 2021 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER CASSIDY © 2018, 2021, RYLAND PETERS & SMALL.
summer 2022 real food 45
UP Fan the flames of your barbecue love with these meaty recipes
RECIPES BY GENEVIEVE TAYLOR
hen you get it right, food cooked with fire quite simply tastes amazing—especially meat. Even as a committed omnivore who adores vegetables cooked over fire, there is no denying that meat forms the backbone of good barbecue, notes fire cooking specialist Genevieve Taylor in the intro of her new book, “Seared: The Ultimate Guide to Barbecuing Meat.” Meat and fire were simply made for each other. The savory celebration of that partnership brings together the joy of being outdoors with deliciously prepared meats such as the following recipes from her book for juicy tri-tip with sauces, pork and steak kebabs, or what she describes as insanely good pork ribs. –mary subialka
46 real food summer 2022
Balsamic Pork Kebabs, Pesto Dressing MAKES 8 KEBABS
Vinegar is a wonderful acidic tenderizer but the slight sweetness to this marinade means the kebabs can burn over too high a heat, so be prepared to cook slightly away from the fire for a little longer. (You will need 8 metal skewers.) 4 3 1 3 1 2 1
tablespoons balsamic vinegar tablespoons olive oil tablespoon brown sugar garlic cloves, crushed teaspoon smoked paprika pound-10 ounce pork leg, diced into 1¼–1½ inch cubes bunch (about 6) scallions, cut into 1½-inch lengths Flaked sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
For the Pesto
2 1 1½ 6 1
ounces pine nuts ounce basil, leaves and stems, roughly torn ounces Parmesan, grated tablespoons olive oil Juice of ½ lemon garlic clove, crushed
1. Mix together the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, brown sugar, garlic and smoked paprika in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper, add the pork and toss together to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. 2. To make the pesto, tip the pine nuts into a small skillet and set over a medium heat. Toast for a couple of minutes until golden, then tip into a food processor. Add the basil, Parmesan, olive oil, lemon juice and garlic along with a little salt and pepper. Blitz to a purée then scoop into a bowl. I always think pesto tastes best when freshly made, but you can make a few hours ahead if you prefer. You can also make by hand by chopping everything and pounding to a paste in a mortar and pestle. 3. When you are ready to cook, fire up the barbecue ready for direct and indirect grilling. Thread the pork onto metal skewers, alternating it with the spring onion/scallion. Cook, taking care to keep the kebabs a little away from the fierce infrared heat directly over the fire: Rest kebabs on the grill bars, slightly away from the fire so they cook over a medium heat and cook on all sides for 15 to 20 minutes. Use a meat thermometer to check the temperature, taking care the tip doesn’t touch the metal skewer or you will get a false reading. Pork is safe to eat at 145°F for medium or take it up to 160°F for well done. Serve the kebabs with the pesto dressing on the side.
BALSAMIC PORK KEBABS, PESTO DRESSING
Cook’s Note: Pork leg is a lean cut compared to shoulder and can become dry with long cooking, so it’s ideally suited for quick cooks like these kebabs. Increasing the surface area of meat, by slicing or dicing, is a brilliant way to maximize the effectiveness of a marinade since marinades only ever penetrate a few millimeters in, so quite simply more surface area equals more flavor.
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Rump Tail or Tri-Tip, Plus Three Steak Sauces MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Rump tail or tri-tip is a triangular cut from the bottom tip of the sirloin, so you get two per cow, one either side. It’s a tender and tasty cut cooked hot and fast, but do take a careful look at your meat before you cook it—although it’s one single muscle, the grain actually runs in two different directions. To ensure that all-important cutting across the grain, you need to slice it in one direction to the point where the grain changes, about in the middle, then turn through 90 degrees and slice it in the other direction. Also, because of its triangular shape, the thin end does have a tendency to be done before the fat end. 2 pounds, 4 ounces rump tail 1 tablespoon flaked sea salt, plus more to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste For the Walnut and Tarragon Pesto
3½ ounces walnuts Bunch of fresh tarragon (½ ounce), leaves and fine stalks, roughly chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped 3½ ounces extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar For the Romesco Sauce
2 2 1 5 3 ½ 1–2
large red peppers ounces whole blanched almonds slice of slightly stale sourdough bread, torn into chunks tablespoons olive oil garlic cloves, crushed teaspoon smoked paprika teaspoons sherry vinegar, to taste
RUMP TAIL OR TRI-TIP, PLUS THREE STEAK SAUCES AND STEAK, SPRING ONION AND GINGER SKEWERS WITH CHILI PEANUT OIL
3 garlic cloves, chopped Large bunch (about 3½ ounces) flat-leaf parsley, larger stalks discarded, chopped 2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves 2 long red chilies, chopped 3½ ounces (7 tablespoons) olive oil Juice of ½–1 lemon, to taste Pinch superfine sugar 1. Begin by dry-brining the steak: Simply sprinkle the salt all over and place on a rack set over a tray. Slide into the fridge for 24 hours if you have time. 2. Decide on your sauce and get that ready. If you are making romesco, go ahead and fire up the barbecue first as you need it to grill the peppers; for the other two sauces, begin inside. Either way, when you are ready to cook, fire up your barbecue ready for direct grilling but leaving half of your grill coal-free so you can maneuver if things are getting too hot. 3. To make the walnut and tarragon pesto, tip the walnuts into a small fireproof skillet and toast over a medium heat for a couple 48 real food summer 2022
of minutes. Add to a food processor along with the tarragon, garlic, olive oil and white wine vinegar and blend to a smooth paste. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper and scoop into a bowl. Set aside. 4. For the romesco sauce, set the red peppers onto the grill bars directly over the fire. Grill for around 20 minutes, rotating regularly until they are soft and lightly charred. Remove from the heat and put in a bowl. Cover and allow to cool for a few minutes, then peel and slice in half, removing the seeds and stems. Add to the bowl of a food processor. Toast the almonds in a dry skillet over a medium heat for a couple of minutes until they are golden. You can do this on the barbecue by setting the pan slightly off the fire, or on the stove inside. Add to the food processor, along with the bread, olive oil, garlic and smoked paprika. Blitz until smooth, adding just enough cold water to make a smooth paste. Season with a little vinegar and salt and black pepper to taste, then scoop into a bowl and set aside. 5. For the chimichurri, add the garlic to a mortar and pestle and crush. Add the parsley, oregano and chilies and pound together.
CHARCOAL FROM PREVIOUS PAGE ADOBE STOCK / SYTNIK
For the Chimichurri Sauce
Steak, Spring Onion and Ginger Skewers with Chili Peanut Oil MAKES 8 KEBABS
I love using bavette (also known as flank) steak for kebabs: sliced across the grain and ribboned onto sticks it cooks quickly and stays tender. You could substitute it for hanger (onglet) too. It also stands up to a good long marinade for maximum flavor—48 hours wouldn’t hurt—and the chili oil gets better after a couple of days, so start early if you can. Then the cooking is a breeze. Served with steamed rice and something green like stir-fried asparagus or broccoli, this is insanely good and fast. (You will need 8 metal skewers.) –genevieve taylor 1 pound, 12 ounces quick-cooking steak, such as flank, skirt or hanger is ideal 1 bunch (about 6) spring onions/scallions, cut into 1¼-1½ inch lengths 2 ounces fresh root ginger, grated 4 tablespoons soy sauce ½-1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice, or to taste (it’s quite a strong spice blend) Freshly ground black pepper, to taste For the Chili Peanut Oil
1 2 2 4 1 2
Stir through the olive oil, lemon juice and sugar to taste and season with a little salt and pepper. Scoop into a bowl and set aside. 6. When you are ready to cook your steak, make sure your grill is really good and hot, adding extra charcoal to the fire if necessary if you’ve been grilling the peppers for romesco. Drizzle a little oil over the rump tail and rest on the grill bars directly over the fire, turning every 30 seconds or so, to build up a good crust all over. Using a meat thermometer, check the temperature of the meat at the thickest point—125°F for rare, 132°F for medium-rare. If the thin end is overcooking but the thick end isn’t ready, rotate the steak so the thinner end stays farther from the fire each time you turn. 7. Set the steak on a board and carve into thick slices before eating with your chosen sauce. If you want to rest the steak before carving, be sure to remove it a few degrees below eating temperature to allow for carryover cooking. Cook’s Notes: Other favorite thinner steaks (¾ inch or less) for quick, hot and fast cooking include: Skirt, bavette (flank or goose skirt), feather blade and flat iron.
cup vegetable oil ounces salted peanuts, chopped ounces dried chili flakes garlic cloves, sliced banana shallot, finely chopped teaspoons flaked sea salt
1. Rest the steak on a board and use a large sharp knife to cut into ½-inch strips, making sure you cut across the grain. Toss into a bowl and add the spring onions/scallions, ginger, soy sauce, fivespice and a generous grind of black pepper. Toss to mix, cover and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours. 2. At the same time, make the chili oil as it improves after a day or so. Pour the oil into a small heavy-based saucepan and set over a low heat on the stove. Add the peanuts, chili flakes, garlic, shallots and salt and simmer really gently for a good 30 minutes until the chili is crispy and the peanuts, garlic and spring onions/shallot are golden. Leave to cool in the pan before transferring to a screw-top jar or a bowl with a lid. Once cold, slide into the fridge where it will keep for a good month, although I guarantee it won’t last that long. 3. When you are ready to cook, thread the meat onto the skewers, ribboning the slices a few times on the sticks, and alternating them with pieces of spring onion. 4. Fire up your barbecue ready for direct grilling—the skewers cook quickly, so you shouldn’t need to use too much fuel (just half a chimney or so, if you are using the best quality charcoal). 5. Sear the skewers over a high direct heat for 5 to 7 minutes with the lid open, turning regularly. Cooking with the lid open means you are only using direct radiant heat from the charcoal plus conduction heat from the grill bars, so you have a good chance of a getting a lovely caramelized sear on the meat before it overcooks. Serve immediately with the crispy chili oil alongside. BEIGNETS
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Char Siu Pork Belly MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
This insanely good roast pork belly recipe breaks all the rules of marinating as it contains quite a lot of sugar, which could burn very easily on a barbecue. The trick is to cook it indirectly, at a fairly low to moderate heat. You will still get a lot of lovely browning and sticky caramelization, which may surprise you— but remember that the marvelous Maillard reactions happen at low temperatures as well as high ones (see Cook’s Note). Traditionally maltose is the sugar of choice, although a neutral-tasting honey is a good substitute. Beware, maltose is exceedingly thick and sticky. Use a spoon warmed in boiling water to scoop it out and into a small bowl, then give it a few seconds in a microwave to melt before using in the marinade. Pork belly, sliced into ribs, is essentially the same as spare ribs but just extra meaty and with less butchering involved, so you could substitute spare ribs if you like. 4½ 4 3 3 3 1 1 1 3 1 1½ 1
pounds bone-in pork belly tablespoons soy sauce tablespoons rice wine tablespoons hoisin sauce tablespoons maltose, warmed, or runny honey tablespoon molasses tablespoon sesame oil tablespoon tomato ketchup garlic cloves, crushed ounce fresh ginger root, grated teaspoons Chinese five-spice teaspoon white pepper, ideally freshly ground
1. Take your pork belly and use a very sharp knife to remove the rind, cutting between the skin and fat below with gentle sweeping strokes. Cut the belly into slices, following the bones, so you get really thick, meaty ribs. At the ends the pieces may be rather more triangular than long and rib-shaped, which is just fine. Set in a shallow dish in a single snug layer. 2. Make the marinade by stirring together the soy, rice wine, hoisin, warmed maltose or honey, molasses, sesame oil and tomato ketchup. Add the garlic, ginger, five-spice and white pepper and stir well to combine. Pour over the pork and toss it about to mix thoroughly. Cover the dish and set in the fridge for 24 hours if you have time; 48 hours wouldn’t hurt. 3. When you’re ready to cook, fire up your grill ready for indirect grilling, with a fire piled to one side of your barbecue. You are aiming to have a temperature of around 260–280°F inside the barbecue, so shut air vents right down to keep the temperature steady. 4. Rest the pork onto the grill bars, arranging it so the pieces are as far from the fire as possible. Reserve the extra marinade left in the dish. Shut the lid and cook for around 4 to 5 hours, maybe a little more, turning and rotating the pieces every 45 minutes or so and brushing with a little of the extra marinade as you go. You are aiming for a soft and yielding texture, so test by easing the meat from the bone. If it’s resistant, cook for longer. As long as the meat is far from the fire, the cooking here is really rather hands off. Serve hot and sticky, straight from the grill. 50 real food summer 2022
CHAR SIU PORK BELLY
Cook’s Note: Maillard was a French chemist who first described the phenomenon in 1912. More than just caramelization, which is simply the burning of sugars, Maillard is a chemical reaction sequence that begins between a simple sugar molecule and a protein, or amino acid, creating an unstable intermediate structure. This then goes on to react again and again and again in a series of simultaneous chain reactions that produce literally hundreds of new flavor molecules. It’s no wonder we find browned food irresistible. Maillard reactions are the backbone of good cooking and good eating: Things that have undergone its reaction process simply taste of more. n
Fuel Set-ups for Different Sorts of Cooking
You can set out your fire in different ways depending on what you are cooking and how long it is going to take. What you never, ever want to do is fill the base of your barbecue with an even layer of lit fuel. This would ruin your ability to create the all-important “heat zones” and would give you no temperature control whatsoever. Things would just be HOT. So the fuel needs to go in one area while another area is left entirely fuel-free. This gives you direct vs indirect cooking, the absolute linchpin to mastering barbecue cooking. These are different fire set-ups I go to as standard in my kettle barbecue: n Half and half: My most used set-up. Lit coals on one half, no fuel on the other. The amount of heat energy is greatest directly over the fire, and falls away in a left to right gradient the further away, or more indirectly, you go. n Two fires: If I am roasting a chicken or big joint of meat, I usually light two small fires, one to either side of the barbecue, with a good-sized fire-free gap in the center. This means the food gets a steady, even amount of heat from both sides, meaning you won’t need to rotate it mid-cook to make sure both sides get the same amount of heat. n Center fire: If I’m cooking a lot of small things— like chicken wings—I will light a fire in the center and arrange them in a ring around the perimeter of the barbecue. This way each wing is equidistant to the fire, getting the same amount of heat for a more even cook. I might use this way for sausages too. —genevieve taylor
n u t r i t i o n (p e r s e r v i n g) RUMP TAIL OR TRI-TIP, PLUS SAUCES (STEAK ONLY) CALORIES: 315, FAT:
16G (SAT: 7G), CHOLESTEROL: 91 MG, SODIUM: 1830 MG, CARB: 0G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: 0G, PROTEIN: 56G
Walnut and Tarragon Pesto: CALORIES: 380, FAT:
41G (SAT: 5 G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 0 MG, CARB:
4G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: <1G, PROTEIN: 4G
6G, FIBER: 1G, SUGAR: 2G, PROTEIN: 1G
Romesco Sauce: CALORIES:
BALSAMIC PORK KEBABS, PESTO DRESSING
280, FAT: 25G (SAT: 3 G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 55 MG, CARB: 12G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 3G, PROTEIN: 5G
CALORIES: 240, FAT: 25G (SAT: 3.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 15 MG, CARB:
CALORIES: 294, FAT: 20G (SAT: 4G), CHOLESTEROL: 67 MG, SODIUM: 240 MG, CARB: 6G, FIBER: <1G, SUGAR: 4G, PROTEIN: 36G
STEAK, SPRING ONION AND GINGER SKEWERS
WITH CHILI PEANUT OIL
CALORIES: 490, FAT: 47G (SAT: 8 G), CHOLESTEROL: 31 MG, SODIUM: 1160 MG, CARB: 5G, FIBER: 1G, SUGAR: 1G, PROTEIN: 25G
CHAR SIU PORK BELLY
CALORIES: 637, FAT: 46G (SAT: 16G), CHOLESTEROL: 154 MG, SODIUM: 1120 MG, CARB: 20G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: 16G, PROTEIN: 62G
RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “SEARED: THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BARBECUING MEAT” BY GENEVIEVE TAYLOR © 2022 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM QUADRILLE PUBLISHING. PHOTOS BY JASON INGRAM.
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Celebrate Every One of Ireland’s most popular foodies shares recipes and tips for embracing simple yet vibrant dishes BY MARY SUBIALKA
52 real food summer 2022
onal Skehan flipped his first pancake when he was four years old, sparking a lifelong interest in food. Born in Dublin, Ireland, in 1986, Skehan started one of the country’s first food blogs in 2007 called Good Mood Food, which evolved into a cookbook of the same name. The self-taught cook drew audiences with his enthusiasm for whipping up delicious and approachable healthy meals, and his first series on Irish television soon followed. After making appearances on television and giving cooking demonstrations at social events, he was featured in his own weekly food program, “Kitchen Hero” in 2011 and published a cookbook based on the series,
“Kitchen Hero—Bringing Cooking Back Home.” Skehan judged some of the U.K.’s young cooks on BBC’s “Junior MasterChef ” in 2012, and in 2013, after appearing on Jamie Oliver’s YouTube channel, Skehan launched his own YouTube channel which has since grown to over a million subscribers. His travels have taken him to many parts of the globe over the last decade. He learned from “nonnas” on Fox International’s “Grandma’s Boy,” and he presented a series for Food Network, “Follow Donal,” exploring Vietnam in a four-part series and then visiting 10 European cities in the second installment of the series, which aired in 2015. He has also appeared on HBO Max, NBC’s “Today” show, “Rachael Ray” and more. Now one of Ireland’s most-popular foodies, he has written 10 cookbooks and offers up recipes from everyday eating with family and friends to dishes inspired by his travels in Europe and Southeast Asia.
DONAL EVAN DOHERTY
day Life has changed a bit since his intensive globe-trotting days. After marrying his wife Sofie Larsson in 2015, the couple moved to Los Angeles, California, in 2016. Their son Noah was born there in December 2017 and their second son Oliver arrived in November 2019. Then, with the little ones and their dog Max in tow, they moved back to his hometown of Dublin during the height of the pandemic in April 2020 to be closer to family. “Over the past few years, my life has had plenty of twists and turns, moving across the world and adding children to the mix. But now that I’m back home and closer to my family, I see the importance of those essential recipes that make our home kitchen tick, the classic dishes we come back to time and time again for comfort and security,” he writes in the introduction to his latest book, “Everyday Cook: Vibrant Recipes, Simple Methods, Delicious Dishes,” which was published in fall 2021. summer 2022 real food 53
Thai BBQ Fighting Chicken with Crunchy Salad MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Ideally you want to cook this fabulous street-food recipe on a barbecue, but if it’s raining or you don’t have one, then you can do this on the griddle as in this recipe. 2 lemongrass stalks, peeled and chopped 3 garlic cloves 1 red chili Large bunch of cilantro 3 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons brown sugar 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 1 tablespoon fish sauce 2 tablespoons peanut oil 8 free-range chicken thighs (bone in and skin on) Sea salt and white pepper, to taste For the Salad
7 ¼ 5 2 1 2 1 1 2
ounces carrot, grated red cabbage, shredded scallions, thinly sliced tablespoons smooth peanut butter tablespoon rice vinegar tablespoons soy sauce tablespoon honey (¾-inch) piece of fresh ginger Juice of 1 lime teaspoons sesame oil
Handful of cilantro leaves Handful of basil leaves Handful of peanuts, chopped
3½ ounces kale, shredded 1. In a mortar and pestle or in a small food processor, mash together the lemongrass, garlic, chili and cilantro leaves and stems. Blend with the soy sauce, sugar, rice vinegar and fish sauce, then add the oil and season with sea salt and white pepper. Tip into a shallow bowl, add the chicken thighs and leave to marinate for at least an hour, or overnight. 2. Heat the oven to 400°F. 3. Mix all the vegetables for the salad together in a large bowl. Blend the rest of the salad ingredients together to make a dressing, pour over the vegetables and toss well. 4. Place an ovenproof griddle pan over a high heat. Add the chicken thighs and char for a few minutes on each side, then transfer to the oven for 5 to 6 minutes until tender and cooked through. Serve the chicken with the crunchy salad, a sprinkling of cilantro, basil and some peanuts.
This book is a celebration of real home cooking for modern-day life and includes meal planning suggestions, time-saving tricks and achievable recipes in categories such as speedy 15- to 30-minute meals, recipes using just one pan, comforting favorites, classic desserts, and recipes to batch cook and freeze for days where you don’t have time to cook from scratch. His wish is that these recipes will help you manage life and all its twists and turns, while still allowing you to pull together meals that are nourishing, vibrant and delicious. “The push and pull on our busy lives means that the routine of cooking a decent home-cooked meal can often find itself being 54 real food summer 2022
pushed down our list of priorities,” he writes. “Reclaiming our kitchens without sacrificing our time is possibly one of the most important things we can do for ourselves and for family life.” “As a food writer, I am constantly looking for new ideas and recipe inspiration, but if I’m honest, having reliable recipes that I can easily whip up are what I most come back to and make time after time,” he writes. His hope for his cookbooks? “To become dog-eared, sauce-splattered, wellused guides to the kitchen.” With recipes including Crispy Hoisin Duck Lettuce Wraps, one-
pan Oven-roasted Ratatouille, prep ahead Roast Cherry Tomato Pici, easy favorite Crispy Egg Fried Rice Bowls, freezeable Smoky Fish Pie with Velvet Mash Topping and more, Skehan has worked to have something for most everyone in “Everyday Cook.” Here, check out recipes from the book for Thai BBQ Fighting Chicken with Crunchy Salad and get a taste of his travels, and try the Spiced Salmon with Pineapple Salsa and Caramelized Onion Rice for a jazzed up take on the hearthealthy fish. Reclaim your kitchen without sacrificing time or flavor. n
Spiced Salmon with Pineapple Salsa and Caramelized Onion Rice MAKES 8 SERVINGS
A spicy fishy feast for the whole family, this recipe feeds a crowd. You can scale it down if you’d like by using individual salmon fillets. 2-pound, 4-ounce side of salmon 2 tablespoons maple syrup 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 2 teaspoons ground cumin Generous pinch of cayenne pepper For the Salsa
PHOTOS DONAL SKEHAN © HODDER & STOUGHTON LTD.
1 medium pineapple, peeled and chopped into small chunks 1 red chili, deseeded and finely chopped Juice of 1 lime
RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “EVERYDAY COOK: VIBRANT RECIPES, SIMPLE METHODS, DELICIOUS DISHES” BY DONAL SKEHAN © 2021 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM HODDER & STOUGHTON LTD.
2 tablespoons olive oil Good handful of roughly chopped cilantro Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste For the Caramelized Onion Rice
2 tablespoons olive oil 2 large onions, thinly sliced 1 pound 2 ounces basmati rice, rinsed 1 teaspoon dried thyme A good handful of cilantro, roughly chopped
1. Put the salmon into a large dish. Mix the maple syrup and spices together, then spread evenly all over the salmon. Leave in the fridge to marinate for at least 2 hours, or overnight if you have the time. 2. Combine all the salsa ingredients except for the cilantro in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. 3. For the rice, heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onions over a medium heat for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring, until caramelized and sticky. Stir in the rice and then pour over 4 cups of water and season with salt and pepper. Cover and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff up with a fork and stir in the herbs. 4. Meanwhile, preheat the grill to high. Line the grill tray with foil and grease well then place the salmon, skin-side up, on the tray. Grill for 3 to 4 minutes until the skin is crispy then flip over and grill for 5 minutes until just cooked and golden brown. 5. Stir the cilantro through the salsa. Serve the salmon with the salsa and caramelized onion rice.
summer 2022 real food 55
Summer in a Glass Sangria, the cool fruity twist on wine, pairs wonderfully at the table BY MARY SUBIALKA
angria is perfect for a summer get-together on the deck or patio. It’s not only refreshing and easy to make with the many delicious fruits available this time of year, but it’s also a great make-ahead drink. Recipes vary widely, but the key elements are a wine you enjoy, your favorite fruits, a touch of sugar, a bit of liquor, and perhaps a finish of fizz. There is no “right” wine choice for sangria, but it’s not the time to crack open your best bottle from the cellar or use the least expensive, either. Start with something you would normally enjoy drinking. And while red wine is the original, rosé or white wine work equally well—such as in the recipe here. Juice from oranges, lemons and limes creates a crisp base, then mix in the seasonal fruit you enjoy, such as fresh peaches, nectarines and strawberries or mango and pineapple for a tropical take. Use regular, apple or peach brandy for the spirit or peach or orange liqueur. Try switching out the club soda with flavored sparkling water for an added flavor boost. Experiment with your favorite mix of ingredients throughout the summer. It’s hard to go wrong when it comes to pairing this refreshing twist on wine. Like red wine, the bolder flavors of red sangria marry well with sizzling steak off the grill as well as burgers and pork. Pay homage to sangria’s Spanish heritage with tapas, or shareable small plates, with bite-size pieces of grilled sausages— chorizo for a spicy kick—Manchego cheese, olives and Marcona almonds. Serve white sangria with a creamy chicken pasta or a cold chicken pasta salad. Seafood is a classic partner with white wine and goes well with white sangria—lobster or lobster rolls and crab balance well with the wine-and-fruit combination. Sangria’s acidic touch plays nicely against soft, creamy Brie cheese and savory-sweet prosciutto-wrapped melon. Wine punches have been around for centuries, but Americans reportedly didn’t get a good taste of what we know as sangria until it was introduced at the 1964 World’s Fair in New York City—a tidbit you can spout while kicking back with a glass of your personal favorite sangria formula this summer. n PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
56 real food summer 2022
White Sangria MAKES ABOUT 6 (8-OUNCE) SERVINGS
1 orange, quartered and sliced ¼-inch thick 1 lemon, sliced into wedges or circles 1 lime, sliced into wedges or circles ¼-½ cup granulated sugar (or preferred sweetener) 1 cup sliced fresh strawberries, peaches or other seasonal fruit, plus more for garnish 1 cup orange juice, pulp-free or strained 1 (750 ml) bottle white wine ½ cup liquor such as apple/peach brandy, peach schnapps or Grand Marnier Club soda or ginger ale, to top (optional) In a large pitcher, combine the fruit and sugar and let it sit for about 15 to 20 minutes at room temperature, which will help the fruit flavors to infuse the wine. Add the juice, wine and liquor and stir to combine. Cover and refrigerate up to 4 hours to let flavors meld. When ready to serve, pour in a large wine glass over ice and add a splash of chilled club soda or ginger ale, if desired. Include a little of the fruit in each serving and garnish with more fruit if you like. Store leftovers in the refrigerator; it’s best enjoyed within 1 to 2 days of making.
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